Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys: Wooden and Cardboard Toys, Mechanical and Electric Toys in Modern English

This is a modern-English version of Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys: Wooden and Cardboard Toys, Mechanical and Electric Toys, originally written by Hall, A. Neely (Albert Neely). It has been thoroughly updated, including changes to sentence structure, words, spelling, and grammar—to ensure clarity for contemporary readers, while preserving the original spirit and nuance. If you click on a paragraph, you will see the original text that we modified, and you can toggle between the two versions.

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DIY Toys
FOR
Kids

BOOKS BY A. NEELY HALL

8vo. Cloth. Filled with hundreds of full-page and working drawings by the author and Norman P. Hall.
THE BOY CRAFTSMAN	{ {	Price net $ 1.60 Postpaid 1.82
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS	{ {	Price net $ 2.00 Postpaid 2.25
THE HANDY BOY	{ {	Price net $ 1.60 Postpaid 1.82
LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON

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Figs. 287 and 288. An Auto Delivery Wagon Made from Cigar Boxes.
(See page __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__.)

[Pg iii]

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HOMEMADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS

Norwood Press
J. S. Cushing Co. — Berwick & Smith Co.
Norwood, MA, USA

[Pg v]

Constructive ideas expel destructive ideas from the juvenile mind.

Positive ideas push out negative thoughts from a young mind.

INTRODUCTORY NOTES

Through the author's handicraft volumes, and magazine and newspaper articles, thousands of boys and girls who never realized they could make their own toys, have succeeded in constructing models which would do credit to Santa Claus' master toy-makers.

Through the author’s craft books and articles in magazines and newspapers, thousands of kids who never thought they could make their own toys have successfully built models that would impress Santa Claus’ top toy makers.

The success of this new home industry has suggested the need of a volume devoted entirely to toy-making, and in Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys the author has brought together a large number of the toy ideas from his former handicraft volumes, and from his articles published in the Ladies' Home Journal, Woman's Home Companion, Good Housekeeping, the Boys' Magazine, and other publications, and he believes that as collected and arranged the material will be found a veritable gold-mine of toy-making information.

The success of this new home industry has highlighted the need for a book focused entirely on toy-making. In Homemade Toys for Kids, the author has gathered many toy ideas from his previous handicraft books and from his articles published in the Ladies' Home Journal, Woman's Home Companion, Good Housekeeping, Boys' Magazine, and other magazines. He believes that, as organized here, the material will be a true treasure trove of information for toy-making.

Go to any toy store and price the toys similar to those described within these covers, then estimate if you can how much the other toys you do not find would cost if manufactured, and you will discover that one hundred dollars would not cover their value. One splendid thing about these home-made toys is that the greater part of them require little more than the pick-up material found at home. Few boys and girls are given a one hundred dollar assortment of toys at a time, yet any one can own a collection of this value who is willing to spend the time necessary to follow the instructions given in this book. Probably, though, some of the toys will be wanted now, and the others one, two or three seasons hence, because, you see, the book is an all-the-year-round handy book with suggestions for every season. Some of the toys will be of especial interest to boys, yet girls who like what boys like will enjoy making them also.

Visit any toy store and check the prices for toys similar to those mentioned in this book. Then, try to estimate how much the ones you can’t find would cost if they were made. You’ll see that one hundred dollars wouldn’t cover their total value. One great thing about these homemade toys is that most of them only require materials you can find around the house. Most boys and girls don’t get a one hundred dollar toy collection all at once, but anyone can have a collection worth that much if they’re willing to take the time to follow the instructions in this book. However, some toys might be wanted right away, while others might be more popular one, two, or three seasons from now because, as you’ll see, this book offers ideas for every season. While some toys will especially appeal to boys, girls who enjoy what boys like will have fun making them too.

[Pg vi]

Home-made toys are generally longer lived than store toys because the boy or girl who expends a certain amount of effort producing gives them better care. Home-made toys have a greater value than boughten ones because there is as much fun making them as playing with them. Doing something interesting, getting satisfying results out of the work, putting an idea into tangible form, and having a toy to show of which it can be said, "I made this all myself,"—these are the factors in toy-making so fascinating to boys and girls.

Homemade toys usually last longer than store-bought ones because the kids who put in the effort to create them take better care of them. Homemade toys are more valuable than purchased ones since making them is just as enjoyable as playing with them. Engaging in something fun, seeing satisfying results from the work, turning an idea into something real, and having a toy to proudly say, "I made this all by myself,"—these are the elements of toy-making that captivate kids.

It is no less a child's nature to want to do that which is most pleasing to him, than an adult's, so why not encourage this wholesome activity of toy-making to which the child takes as readily as a duck takes to water? It trains the mind to think clearly, the hands to work cleverly, replaces destructive thoughts with constructive ideas, and, in making the boy or girl dependent upon himself or herself for toys, is invaluable in developing resourcefulness.

It's just as natural for a child to want to do what makes them happy as it is for an adult. So why not support this beneficial activity of toy-making that children take to so easily? It helps them think clearly, work skillfully with their hands, replace negative thoughts with positive ones, and by making their own toys, they become more resourceful and self-reliant.

Recognizing how easily the child's interest is attracted and held by anything of a building nature, toy manufacturers have placed scores of so-called "construction sets" upon the market, but, though excellent as these outfits are, the toys they form are merely assembled, not really made by the boy or girl, and much of the value of making is lost. Exactly as good models as those assembled with "construction sets" can be made of pick-up materials, as chapters in this book show. In fact, some of the models in the manufacturers' instruction pamphlets—merry-go-rounds, Ferris wheels and swings—are almost identical with home-made models devised long ago by the author for his readers. Furthermore, there are many, very many toys in Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys which are beyond the limited possibilities of "construction sets."

Recognizing how easily a child's interest can be captured by anything related to building, toy manufacturers have released countless so-called "construction sets." While these kits are great, the toys they create are just put together, not truly made by the child, and a lot of the value in creating is lost. Just as good models as those built with "construction sets" can be made from found materials, as chapters in this book demonstrate. In fact, some of the models in the manufacturers' instruction booklets—like merry-go-rounds, Ferris wheels, and swings—are nearly identical to homemade models that the author created long ago for his readers. Moreover, there are many toys in Homemade Toys for Girls and Boys that go beyond the limited options of "construction sets."

A. N. H.

Oak Park, Illinois,
May 31, 1915.

[Pg vii]

	PAGE
Chapter I
Homemade Windmills	1
The Paper Pinwheel—The Pinion-wheel Windmill— To set up the Pinion-wheel—The Four-blade Windmill—To set up the Windmill—The Eight-blade Windmill—The Hub—The Eight Blades—The Shaft—The Tail—To pivot the Windmill—To use a Toy Jumping-Jack.
Chapter II
Homemade Kites	9
How to make a Malay kite—The sticks—Framing the sticks—Covering the framework—Attaching the bridle—Flying line—The box kite—The kite sticks—The side frames—Covering for the end cells—Assembling the kite—Attaching the bridle—A good hand kite reel—A body kite reel.
Chapter III
A DIY Model Airplane	21
Accuracy in Model Construction—The Most Effective Type of Model—The Fuselage—The Thrust Bearings—The Bow Hooks—The Main Wing—The Elevator—The Fin—The Propellers—How to Prepare the Propellers—The Propeller Blank—The Propeller Shafts—The Motors—The Homemade Motor Winder—How the Egg Beater Winds the Motors—Care in Winding the Motors—Position for Launching a Model.
Chapter IV
A DIY Toy Motorboat	33
How it works—The Hull Bottom—The Sides—The Deck—The Propeller—The Propeller Shaft— The Bearing Plate—The Thrust Bearing—The Rubber Band Motor—How to Wind the Motor—How to Enhance the Design and Construction.

[Pg viii]

	PAGE
Chapter V
DIY Toy Water Motors	38
A Varnish-Can Water Motor —The Case—The Water Motor Wheel—The Eight Paddles—The Wheel Shaft—An Outlet—A Pulley Belt—Pulley Wheels—Connecting the Water Motor—Another Water Motor—The Water Motor Wheel—The Wheel Supports—Mounting the Wheel—The Pulley Wheel—The Water Motor Case.
Chapter VI
A DIY Toy Railway	47
The Trolley Line—Supports for the Trolley Line—Power for Operation—Railway—Tracks—The Cars—A Gondola Car—A Streetcar—Other Cars—Operation of the Railway—A Station.
Chapter VII
DIY Toy Elevators	59
A Toy Elevator that Seems Magical in Its Operation—Adapting the Elevator for a Toy Office Building—Floors—Partitions—The Elevator Car—The Elevator Guides—The Cables—The Counterbalance—The Smoke-stack—The Overhead Pulleys—How the Car Works—Ballast—How to Make the Car Rise—A Simple Control—Two Levers—An Outdoor Elevator—The Guide Supports—The Car—The Guides—The Counterbalance—The Lifting Cable—The Lowering Cable.
Chapter VIII
DIY Mechanical Toys	71
The Easy Creation of Small Mechanical Toys—A Buzz-saw Whirligig—How to Use the Whirligig—The Clog-dancer—A Toy Jumping-Jack—A Cricket-rattle—The Turtle Toy—How to Make the Turtle Crawl.
Chapter IX
Homemade Tops	79
Top Spinning in the South Sea Islands—Clock Wheel Tops—A Rug-tack Top—A Spool Top—A Spinning Top Race-track—A Shoe-polish Can Top—A Spiral Top—A Merry-go-round Top—How the Top Spins—Horses and Riders—A Flag.

[Pg ix]

	PAGE
Chapter X
Homemade Clockwork Toys	88
Necessary Materials—How to prepare the Clockwork—The Merry-go-round—The Standard—The Tent—The Tent-poles—The Horses—The Sleighs—The Shafts—The Girl Riders—The Boy Riders—The Platform—How to operate the Merry-go-round—Other Animals—A Miniature Ferris Wheel—The Standard—The Clockwork Motor—The Station Platform—The Wheel—Rims—Hubs—Spokes—Assembling the Wheel—The Cars—Axles—How to mount the Wheel—The Platform Steps—The "Flying Airships"—The Standard—The Mast—The Cars—Increasing the Speed of the Clockwork—An Electric Motor—An Automobile—The Frame—The Belt—Testing the Machine—The Cardboard Sides—The Wheels—The Mud-guards—The Lamps—The Steering Wheel—The Horn—The Brake—The Driver—Painting the Machine—An Automobile Delivery Wagon—The Cardboard Sides—The Wheels—Other Parts—Painting the Wagon—A Clockwork Railway.
Chapter XI
DIY Electrical Toy	117
An Electro-magnet Derrick—The Electro-magnet—A Homemade Switch—The Derrick—The Windlass—The Hoisting Cables—How the Derrick Operates—A Toy Shocking Machine—The Induction Coil—The Primary Coil—The Secondary Coil—The Handles—An Interrupter—How the Interrupter Functions—A Toy Electric Motor Truck—The Wheels—The Upper Shaft—The Belts—The Battery—The Bi-chromate Battery Solution—Amalgamating a Zinc Pencil—The Seat and Canopy Top—The Seat Arms—The Steering Wheel—The Levers.
Chapter XII
A DIY Toy Shooting Gallery	140
The Framework—The Circular Target—The Animal Targets—The Card-Shooting Pistol—How to Number the Targets—How to Shoot at the Targets.
Chapter XIII
A DIY Dollhouse	145
The Building Material—The Floor Plans—The Partitions—The Elevator Shaft—The Side Walls—The Back Wall—The Front Wall—The Windows—The Roof—The Chimney—An Elevator—The Car—The Guide Wires—The Pulleys—The Chain Cable—The Counterbalance—The Gable Ends—Spring Catches—The Stairway—Stringers—Treads and Risers—Newel Posts—Handrails—Balusters—The Front Steps—The Window Openings—The Window Glass—The Front and Back Doors—The Outside Trim—The Interior Woodwork—Setting the Nail Heads—Painting.

[Pg x]

	PAGE
Chapter XIV
Furnishing the DIY Dollhouse	156
The Walls and Ceiling—Hardwood Floors—Carpets—Rugs—Window Shades—Lace Curtains—Drapes—Pictures—A Cozy Corner—Buying Furnishings—Making Furniture.
Chapter XV
Furnishing the DIY Dollhouse	160
Dimensions of the Stable—The First Floor—The Roof—The Gable End—The Stall Partitions—The Feed Troughs—Windows—Ladder to the Hayloft—Feed Hoist—The Drop Front—A Stable Door—Painting—If You Prefer a Garage.
Chapter XVI
A DIY Doll Apartment Building	165
A New Concept in Dollhouses—How the Three Units are arranged to create a Three-story Building or Six-room Apartment—Building Materials—Room Sizes—The First Story Unit—The Second Story Unit—The Third Story Unit—The Door and Window Openings—The Bay Windows—The Connections between the Units—The Roof Construction—The Chimney—The Windows—The Front Door—The Interior Doorways—The Interior Trim—A Fireplace—Lighting Fixtures—Decorating—Painting the Exterior Walls.
Chapter XVII
Homemade Doll Furniture	174
Metal Furniture—Miniature Mission Furniture—Materials—Drawing the Patterns and Enlarging with Squares—The Chairs—The Settee—Tables—A Dining Room Table—A Sideboard—A Mirror—The Grandfather Clock—Kitchen Furniture—The Beds—The Dresser—A Washstand—Finishing.
Cigar Box Furniture	187
A foldable bed—A dresser—A wardrobe.

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	PAGE
Chapter XVIII
DIY Cigar Box Toy	191
Material—Cutting—A Delivery Van—A Cart—A Delivery Truck—A Jack-in-the-box—A Round Chair—A Round Coffee Table—A Dining Table—A Square Chair—A Doll's Cradle—Finishing the Cigar Box Wood.
Chapter XIX
DIY Spool and Cardboard Toys	196
Materials: A baby carriage, a two-wheeled cart, a toy merry-go-round, a teeter-totter, a doll swing, a sofa, a chair, a square coffee table, a round coffee table.
Chapter XX
A DIY Toy Mailbox	205
Playing Postman—Materials for the Mailbox—The Sides, Ends, and Bottom of the Box—The Top—The Letter Slot—The Collection Slot—Reinforcing the Corners—Covering the Box—A Collection Schedule Card—How to Hang Up the Mailbox—A Mailbag—How to Play Post Office.
Chapter XXI
A DIY Reflectoscope	210
The Working Principle of the Reflectoscope—Materials Needed to Create One—The Lens Opening—Ventilation Holes—The Internal Setup—A Hood for the Ventilation—Using Oil Lamps—Using Electric Light—How to Install the Lens—Sealing Cracks with Putty—Painting the Interior of the Box—The Back Boards—The Picture Holder—How the Lens Reverses Images—Adjustments.
Table of Contents	215

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LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS

(In addition to 346 text illustrations)

Figs. 287 and 288.	An Auto Delivery-wagon built of Cigar Boxes (Page 192)		Frontispiece
			FACING PAGE
Fig. 48.	Launching the Toy Motor-boat		34
Fig. 108.	The Buzz-saw whizzes when you twist the Cord The Eccentric Clog-dancer is a Circus in Himself Pull the String and Jack jumps comically	} } }	72
Fig. 114. Fig. 115.	Whirling the Cricket-rattle makes it Chirp The Crawling Turtle's Shell is a Jelly-mould	} }	76
Fig. 135. Fig. 136. Fig. 137. Fig. 138.	A Merry-go-round A Clockwork Motor A Ferris Wheel A Flying Airship	} } } }	90
Fig. 160. Fig. 161.	The Car Completed The Framework	} }	104
Fig. 220. Fig. 221.	The Home-made Doll-house Interior View of Doll-house	} }	146
Fig. 243. Fig. 244.	The Most Stylish Apartments in Doll Town How the Three Stories are arranged side by side to form a Six-room Apartment	} } }	166
Fig. 284. Fig. 285.	An Express-wagon A Cart.	} }	192
Fig. 289. Fig. 290. Fig. 291. Fig. 292. Fig. 293. Fig. 294. Fig. 295.	A Jack-in-the-box The Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-box A Round-seated Chair A Round Center-table A Dining-table A Square-seated Chair A Doll's Cradle	} } } } } } }	194-195
Fig. 325. Fig. 326.	The Home-made Mail-box strapped to the Face of a Door The Home-made Mail-box strapped to a Chair-back	} }	206

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

		PAGE
Fig. 1.	The Paper Pinwheel is the Simplest Pinwheel to Make.	1
Fig. 2.	Diagram for Paper Pinwheel.	2
Fig. 3.	How the Paper Pinwheel is Folded.	2
Fig. 4.	A Pinion-wheel Windmill.	3
Fig. 5.	Diagram for Pinion-wheel Windmill.	3
Fig. 6.	A Four-blade Windmill.	4
Fig. 7.	Hub.	4
Fig. 8.	How to Slot End of Shaft for Tail.	4
Fig. 9.	An Eight-blade Windmill.	5
Fig. 10.	Spool Hub.	6
Fig. 11.	Blades.	6
Fig. 12.	Shaft.	6
Fig. 13.	Tail.	6
Fig. 14.	How the Windmill may be Rigged up to Operate a Toy Jumping-Jack.	7
Fig. 15.	How the Jumping-Jack is Supported.	8
Fig. 16.	Spool Hub.	8
Fig. 17.	A Malay Tailless Kite.	9
Fig. 18.	Completed Malay Kite with Belly-band Attached.	10
Fig. 19.	Framework of Malay Kite.	11
Fig. 20.	Detail of Vertical Stick.	12
Fig. 21.	Detail of Bow-stick.	12
Fig. 22.	Detail of End of Bow-stick.	12
Fig. 23.	Raising the Box-kite.	13
Fig. 24.	The Box-kite.	14
Fig. 25.	Make Two Side Frames like this.	14
Fig. 26.	Cross-section of the Box-kite.	15
Fig. 27.	Detail of Diagonal Braces.	16
Fig. 28.	A Good Hand Kite-reel.	17
Figs. 29 and 30.	Details of Hand Kite-reel.	18
Fig. 31.	A Body Kite-reel.	19
Fig. 32.	Detail of Axle Support.	19
Fig. 33.	Detail of Cran.	19
Fig. 34.	Launching a Model Aeroplane.	22
Fig. 35.	Plan.	23
Fig. 36.	Side Elevation (without Rubber Motor).	23
Fig. 37.	Detail of Fuselage and Motor of the Wells Model.	24
Fig. 38.	Detail of Thrust Bearing, Propeller-shaft, and Connections.	24
Fig. 39.	Detail of Bow Hook and how Rubber Motor is Connected to it.	24
Fig. 40.	Detail of the Main Plane Framework of the Wells Model.	26
Fig. 41.	Detail of the Elevator Framework.	26
Fig. 42.	Detail of Fin.	26
Fig. 43.	The Wells Model Propeller.	27
Fig. 44.	How to Prepare a 9-inch Propeller.	27
Fig. 45.	A Home-made Motor Winder.	30
Fig. 46.	The Kind of Egg-beater to Use.	30
Fig. 47.	How the Motors are Connected to Winder for Winding.	30
Fig. 48.	Launching the Toy Motor-boat.	34
Fig. 49.	The Completed Motor-boat.	33
Fig. 50.	Stern, with Motor in Place.	33
Fig. 51.	Diagram of Hull.	34
Figs. 52 and 53.	How the Hull, Sides, Stern and Deck Pieces are Assembled.	34
Fig. 54.	Longitudinal Section of Assembled Motor-boat.	36
Figs. 55-59.	Details of Propeller.	36
Fig. 60.	Rubber-band Motor.	36
Fig. 61.	A Varnish-can Water-motor in Operation.	38
Fig. 62.	The Completed Varnish-can Water-motor.	39
Figs. 63 and 64.	Sections through Water-motor Case.	40
Fig. 65.	The Completed Water-motor Wheel.	41
Figs. 66 and 67.	66 and 67. Details of Water-motor Wheel.	41
Figs. 68-69.	How to Make a Water-tight Connection between Faucet and Water-motor.	42
Fig. 70.	A Small Water-motor that can be Operated in a Wash-Basin.	43
Fig. 71.	The Water-motor Wheel.	43
Figs. 72 and 73.	Details of Water-motor Wheel.	44
Fig. 74.	Support for Water-motor Wheel.	45
Fig. 75.	Upright.	47
Fig. 76.	The Toy Railway in Operation.	48
Fig. 77.	Support for Trolley-line.	48
Fig. 78.	The Tracks.	50
Fig. 79.	A Top View of Car Truck.	50
Fig. 80.	Spool Wheels.	51
Fig. 81.	The Completed Car Truck.	51
Fig. 82.		51
Fig. 83.	A Gondola Car.	52
Fig. 84.	Side View.	53
Fig. 85.	End View.	53
Figs. 86-94.	Details of Toy Street Car.	55
Fig. 95.	The Railway Depot.	57
Fig. 96.	A Toy Office Building with Elevator.	60
Fig. 97.	Section through Elevator Shaft.	62
Fig. 98.	Floors.	63
Fig. 99.	Partitions.	63
Fig. 100.	Front View of Elevator Shaft.	64
Fig. 101 and 102.	Elevator Car Details.	64
Fig. 103.	Detail of Brake and Controlling Levers.	65
Fig. 104.	An Outdoor Elevator.	66
Fig. 105.	Supports for Elevator Guides and Cables.	67
Fig. 106.	Elevator Car.	69
Fig. 107.	Counter-balance.	69
Fig. 108.	The Buzz-saw whizzes when you twist the Cord.	72
Fig. 109.	The Eccentric Clog-dancer is a Circus in himself.	72
Fig. 110.	Pull the string and Jack jumps comically.	72
Fig. 111.	Detail of Buzz-saw Whirligig shown in Fig. 108.	72
Fig. 112.	Details of Body of the Clog-dancer shown in Fig. 109.	73
Fig. 113.	Details of Body of the Jumping-Jack shown in Fig. 110.	74
Fig. 114.	Whirling the Cricket-rattle makes it chirp.	76
Fig. 115.	The Crawling Turtle's shell Is a Jelly Mould.	76
Fig. 116.	Details of the Noisy Cricket-rattle shown Fig. 114.	76
Fig. 17.	How Head, Feet, and Tail are Attached to a Jelly Mould to Make the Turtle shown in Fig. 115.	77
Fig. 118.	The Spool Wheels and the Rubber-bands which Propel them.	77
Figs. 119 and 120.	Clock Wheel Tops.	80
Fig. 121.	Upholstering Tack Top.	80
Fig. 122.	How to Hold Upholstering Tack for Spinning.	80
Figs. 123 and 124.	Details of Spool Top.	80
Fig. 125.	A Shoe-polish Can Top.	81
Figs. 126-128.	Details of Shoe-polish Can Top.	82
Fig. 129.	A Spinning Top Race-track.	83
Fig. 130.	A Spiral Top.	84
Fig. 131.	Diagram of Spiral for Spiral Top.	84
Fig. 132.	A Merry-go-round Top.	85
Fig. 133.	Detail of Merry-go-round Top.	86
Fig. 134.	How Horses are Mounted upon Top Platform.	86
Fig. 135.	A Merry-go-round.	90
Fig. 136.	A Clockwork Motor.	90
Fig. 137.	A Ferris Wheel.	90
Fig. 138.	The "Flying Airships."	90
Fig. 139.	How the Clockwork Motor is Fastened to the Cigar-box Cover. (This Box has been cut down to the Proper Length for the Ferris Wheel.)	89
Fig. 140.	Plan of Top of Standard for Merry-go-round.	91
Fig. 141.	Pattern for Tent of Merry-go-round.	91
Fig. 142.	The Tent ready to be Fastened upon a Tent-pole.	91
Fig. 143.	Full-size Pattern for the Horses of the Merry-go-round.	92
Fig. 144.	Pattern for the Merry-go-round Sleighs.	93
Fig. 145.	A Completed Sleigh showing Attachment to Shaft.	94
Fig. 146.	Full-size Pattern for the Girl Riders.	95
Fig. 147.	Full-size Pattern for the Boy Riders.	95
Fig. 148.	How the Second Leg of the Boy is Attached.	95
Fig. 149.	Standard for the Ferris Wheel.	97
Fig. 150.	Make Two Supports like this for the Ferris Wheel Standard.	98
Figs. 151 and 152.	How a Spool is Fastened to the Top of the Support for a Hub.	98
Fig. 153.	How to Lay out the Cardboard Rims of the Ferris Wheel.	99
Fig. 154.	The Spokes Fitted into the Spool Hub.	99
Fig. 155.	The Rim Slipped into the End of the Spokes.	99
Fig. 156.	A Spool Hub for the Wheel.	99
Fig. 157.	How the Spokes, Rims, and Axles are Fastened Together.	99
Fig.158.	Pattern for the Ferris Wheel Cars.	100
Fig.159.	A Completed Car for the Ferris Wheel.	101
Fig.160.	The Car Completed.	104
Fig.161.	The Framework.	104
Fig.162.	Top View of Wooden Frame.	105
Figs. 163-170.	Patterns for the Automobile Touring-car.	108
Fig. 171.	Chauffeur.	109
Fig. 172.	Cardboard Side of Automobile.	109
Fig. 173.	The Hood.	110
Fig. 174.	The Steering-wheel.	111
Fig. 175.	An Automobile Delivery Wagon.	111
Fig. 176.	An Electro-magnet Derrick.	118
Figs. 177-179.	The Electro-magnet.	119
Fig. 180.	How the Electro-magnet is Connected up.	120
Fig. 181.	A Home-made Switch.	121
Fig. 182.	Details of Switch.	121
Fig. 183.	Detail of Mast.	122
Fig. 184.	Detail of Pulley.	122
Fig. 185.	Detail of Boom.	122
Fig. 186.	Detail of Derrick Windlass.	123
Fig. 187.	Detail of the Toy Shocking Machine.	125
Figs. 188-191.	Details of Induction-coil.	126
Figs. 192 and 193.	Details of Shocking-coil Handles.	129
Fig. 194.	Interrupter for Shocking-coil.	129
Figs. 195-198.	Details of Interrupter.	131
Fig. 199.	A Toy Electric Motor Truck.	132
Fig. 200.	Top view of Electric Motor Truck.	133
Figs. 201-203.	Details of Axle and Belt Shaft.	134
Fig. 204.	Two Home-made Battery Cells Connected in Series.	135
Fig. 205.	A Single Cell.	136
Figs. 206 and 207.	Details of Zinc and Carbon.	136
Fig. 208.	Plan of Motor Truck Bottom.	137
Fig. 209.	Section through Bottom.	137
Fig. 210.	Details of Seat and Canopy-top.	138
Fig. 211.	Pattern of Canopy-top.	139
Fig. 212.	The Completed Toy Shooting Gallery.	140
Fig. 213.	The Box Framework.	141
Figs. 214-215.	Details of Targets.	142
Fig. 216.	The Card-shooting Pistol.	143
Figs. 217-219.	Detail of Card-shooting Pistol.	144
Fig. 220.	The Home-made Doll-house.	146
Fig. 221.	Interior View of Doll-house.	146
Figs. 222-226.	Plans of Doll-house and Patterns for Partitions.	147
Fig. 227.	The Chimney.	148
Fig. 228.	Front View of Elevator-shaft and Stairs.	149
Figs. 229-232.	Details of the Elevator.	149
Fig. 233.	The Front Gable-end.	152
Figs. 234-237.	Details of Stairs.	153
Fig. 238.	Exterior of Stable.	160
Fig. 239.	Interior of Stable.	161
Fig. 240.	Front Gable-end.	162
Fig. 241.	Stall Partitions.	162
Fig. 242.	Ladder to Hay-loft.	163
Fig. 243.	The Most Stylish Apartments in Doll Town.	166
Fig. 244.	How the Three Stories are Arranged Side by Side to form a Six-room Apartment.	166
Fig. 245.	Plan of the Six-room Doll Apartment.	166
Fig. 246.	The First Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions.	167
Fig. 247.	The Second Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions.	167
Fig. 248.	The Third Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions.	167
Fig. 249.	In Cutting the Opening for the Bay Windows, leave a Narrow Strip over the Opening, as above, for a "Beam."	168
Figs. 250 and 251.	How the Removable Roof is Constructed.	169
Fig. 252.	How the Chimney and Chimney Cap are Made.	169
Fig. 253.	The Living-room Mantel.	171
Fig. 254.	Details of Mantel.	171
Figs. 255-258.	Two Lighting Fixtures and how to Make Them.	172
Figs. 259-266.	Patterns for Furniture.	177
Fig. 267.	Chairs.	178
Fig. 268.	Chairs.	178
Fig. 269.	A Settee.	179
Fig. 270.	A Table.	179
Fig. 271.	Another Design.	180
Fig. 272.	A Side-board.	181
Fig. 273.	A Mirror.	182
Fig. 274.	A Grandfather's Clock.	183
Fig. 275.	A Bed.	184
Fig. 276.	Another Design.	184
Fig. 277.	A Dresser.	185
Fig. 278.	A Wash-Stand.	186
Fig. 279.	A Doll's Folding-bed.	187
Fig. 280.	Folding-bed (open).	188
Fig. 281.	Foot.	188
Fig. 282.	Dresser Completed.	189
Fig. 283.	A Doll's Dresser.	189
Fig. 284.	An Express-wagon.	192
Fig. 285.	A Cart.	192
Fig. 286.	Cross-section of the Express-wagon.	192
Figs. 287 & 288.	An Auto Delivery-wagon Built of Cigar-boxes.	frontispiece
Fig. 289.	A Jack-in-the-box.	194
Fig. 290.	The Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-box.	194
Fig. 291.	A Round-seated Chair.	194
Fig. 292.	A Round Center-table.	194
Fig. 293.	A Dining-table.	194
Fig. 294.	A Square-seated Chair.	194
Fig. 295.	A Doll's Cradle.	194
Fig. 296.	Pedestal of Center-table.	194
Fig. 297.	Leg of Dining-table.	194
Fig. 298.	Pattern for Cradle Rockers.	195
Fig. 299.	Doll Carriage.	196
Fig. 300-302.	Details of Doll Carriage.	197
Fig. 303.	Baby Carriage Hood.	198
Fig. 304.	Diagram of Hood.	198
Fig. 305.	Carriage Handles.	198
Fig. 306.	The Two-wheel Cart.	199
Figs. 307-309.	Details of Cart.	199
Fig. 310.	Merry-go-round.	200
Fig. 311.	Teeter.	200
Fig. 312.	Cardboard Strip for Merry-go-round and Teeter.	200
Fig. 313.	Boy and Girl Riders for Merry-go-round and Teeter.	200
Fig. 314.	Doll Swing.	201
Fig. 315.	Detail of Swing.	201
Figs. 316 and 317.	Details of Swing Seat.	202
Fig. 318.	Sofa.	202
Figs. 319-321.	Details of Sofa.	203
Fig. 322.	Chair.	203
Fig. 323.	Square Center-table.	203
Fig. 324.	Round Center-table.	203
Fig. 325.	The Home-made Mail-box Strapped to the Face of a Door.	206
Fig. 326.	The Home-made Mail-box Strapped to a Chair Back.	206
Fig. 327.	Diagram for Making Sides, Ends, and Bottom of Mail-box.	206
Fig. 328.	Diagram for Making Top.	206
Fig. 329.	Diagram for Making End Pieces of Letter-drop.	206
Fig. 330.	Diagram for Making Front Piece of Letter-drop.	206
Fig. 331.	The Sides, Ends, and Bottom folded ready to be put Together.	207
Fig. 332.	Top, showing how Portion is Bent up for Back of Letter-drop.	207
Fig. 333.	Ends of Letter-drop.	207
Fig. 334.	Front of Letter-drop.	207
Fig. 335.	Top, with Letter-drop Completed.	207
Fig. 336.	Diagram for Making Collection-drop.	208
Fig. 337.	How the Collection-drop is Folded.	208
Fig. 338.	The Collection-drop Hinged in Place.	208
Fig. 339.	The Complete Reflectoscope.	210
Fig. 340.	Detail of Ventilator Top.	210
Fig. 341.	Plan of Reflectoscope.	211
Fig. 342.	Cross-section of Reflectoscope.	211
Figs. 343 and 344.	Details of Lens Mounting.	213
Fig. 345.	View of Back of Reflectoscope.	213
Fig. 346.	Detail of Post Card Holder.	213

[Pg xiv]

Homemade Toys
for
Kids

[Pg xv]

DIY TOYS

FOR KIDS

[Pg 1]

No mechanical toy is more interesting to make, nor more interesting to watch in operation, than a miniature windmill. It is a very simple toy to construct, and the material for making one can usually be found at hand, which are two reasons why nearly every boy and girl at one time or another builds one.

No mechanical toy is more fun to create or watch in action than a miniature windmill. It's really easy to build, and you can usually find the materials you need around the house, which is why almost every boy and girl makes one at some point.

The Paper Pinwheel shown in Fig. 1 is one of the best whirlers ever devised. A slight forward thrust of the stick handle upon which it is mounted starts it in motion, and when you run with the stick extended in front of you it whirls at a merry speed.

The Paper Pinwheel shown in Fig. 1 is one of the best whirligigs ever created. A gentle push of the stick handle it’s mounted on gets it going, and when you jog with the stick out in front of you, it spins at a cheerful pace.

Fig. 1.—The Paper Pinwheel is the Simplest Pinwheel to Make.

Fig. 1.—The Paper Pinwheel is the Easiest Pinwheel to Create.

A piece of paper 8 or 10 inches square is needed for the pinwheel. Fold this piece of paper diagonally from [Pg 2] corner to corner, both ways. Then open the paper, and with a pair of scissors cut along the diagonal creases, from the corners to within ½ inch of the center (Fig. 2). Next, fold corners A, B, C, and D over to the center, as shown in Fig. 3, run a pin through the corners and through the center of the sheet of paper, drive the point of this pin into the end of the stick handle, and the pinwheel will be completed.

You need a piece of paper that’s 8 or 10 inches square for the pinwheel. Fold the paper diagonally from corner to corner in both directions. Then open it up and, using scissors, cut along the diagonal creases from the corners, stopping about ½ inch away from the center (Fig. 2). Next, fold corners A, B, C, and D toward the center, as shown in Fig. 3. Stick a pin through the corners and through the center of the paper, then push the point of the pin into the end of the stick handle, and your pinwheel will be complete.

Fig. 2.—Diagram for Paper Pinwheel.

Fig. 3.—How the Paper Pinwheel is Folded.

Fig. 3.—How to Fold the Paper Pinwheel.

The Pinion-wheel Windmill in Fig. 4 may be made of cardboard or tin. A circular piece 10 or 12 inches in diameter is required. After marking out the outer edge with a compass, describe an inner circle about 1 inch inside of it; then draw two lines through the center at right angles to each other, and another pair at an angle of 45 degrees to these. These lines are shown by the heavy radial lines in Fig. 5. [Pg 3] One-half inch from each of these lines draw a parallel line, as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 5. The next thing to do is to cut out the disk, and cut along the heavy lines just as far as the lines are shown in the diagram (Fig. 5), and then to bend up the blades thus separated, to an angle of about 45 degrees, bending on the second set of radial lines (dotted lines in Fig. 5).

The Pinion-wheel Windmill in Fig. 4 can be made from cardboard or tin. You'll need a circular piece that is 10 or 12 inches in diameter. Start by marking the outer edge with a compass and then draw an inner circle about 1 inch inside of it. Next, draw two lines through the center that cross at right angles to each other, along with another pair at a 45-degree angle to these. These lines are indicated by the thick radial lines in Fig. 5. [Pg 3] Now, draw a parallel line half an inch from each of these lines, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 5. The next step is to cut out the disk and to cut along the thick lines just as far as they are shown in the diagram (Fig. 5), and then bend up the blades that are separated to an angle of about 45 degrees, bending along the second set of radial lines (dotted lines in Fig. 5).

Fig. 4.—A Pinion-wheel Windmill.

Fig. 4.—A Pinion-wheel Wind Turbine.

You had better make a cardboard pinion-wheel first, then a tin one afterwards, as cardboard is so much easier to cut. A pair of heavy shears will be necessary for cutting a tin wheel, and a cold chisel for separating the edges of the blades.

You should first make a cardboard pinion wheel, then a tin one later, since cardboard is much easier to cut. You'll need a sturdy pair of shears to cut the tin wheel, and a cold chisel for prying apart the edges of the blades.

Fig. 5.—Diagram for Pinion-wheel Windmill.

Fig. 5.—Diagram for Pinion Wheel Windmill.

To Mount the Pinion-wheel drive a long nail through the center, through the hole in a spool, and into the end of a stick. Then nail the stick to a post or a fence top.

[Pg 4]

The Four-blade Windmill shown in Fig. 6 has a hub 4 inches in diameter and 1 inch thick (Fig. 7). This should be cut out of hard wood. Draw two lines across one face, through the center, and at right angles to each other. Then carry these lines across the edge of the block, not at right angles to the sides, but at an angle of 45 degrees. Saw along these lines to a depth of 1¼ inches. The ends of the windmill blades are to fit in these slots.

The Four-blade Windmill shown in Fig. 6 has a hub that is 4 inches in diameter and 1 inch thick (Fig. 7). This should be cut from hardwood. Draw two lines across one face, through the center, and at right angles to each other. Then extend these lines across the edge of the block, not perpendicular to the sides, but at a 45-degree angle. Saw along these lines to a depth of 1¼ inches. The ends of the windmill blades will fit into these slots.

Cut the blades of equal size, 9 inches long, 5 inches wide on the wide edge, and 1½ inches wide on the narrow edge, and fasten them in the slots with nails.

Cut the blades to equal size: 9 inches long, 5 inches wide on the broad side, and 1½ inches wide on the narrow side, and secure them in the slots with nails.

Fig. 6.—A Four-blade Windmill.
Fig. 7.—Hub
Fig. 8.—How to Slot End of Shaft for Tail.

Fig. 6.—A Four-blade Windmill.
Fig. 7.—Hub
Fig. 8.—How to Cut the End of the Shaft for the Tail.

With the blades in position, pivot the hub to the end of the windmill shaft, a stick 20 inches long (Fig. 6). The end opposite to that to which the hub is pivoted is whittled round, and slotted with a saw to receive a tail (Fig. 8). The tail may be of the same size as the blades, though it is shown shorter in the illustration.

With the blades in place, rotate the hub to the end of the windmill shaft, which is a stick 20 inches long (Fig. 6). The end opposite where the hub is attached is shaped round and has a slot cut into it to fit a tail (Fig. 8). The tail can be the same size as the blades, although it's shown as shorter in the illustration.

Mount the Windmill upon a post, pivoting its shaft at [Pg 5] the balancing center with a nail or screw. Bore a hole large enough so the shaft will turn freely upon the pivot, and the windmill will thus keep headed into the wind.

Attach the Windmill to a post, rotating its shaft at [Pg 5] the balance point with a nail or screw. Drill a hole big enough so the shaft can rotate freely on the pivot, allowing the windmill to stay facing into the wind.

The Eight-blade Windmill in Fig. 9 has a spool hub (Fig. 10), and blades made of cigar-box wood, shingles, tin, or cardboard (Fig. 11). You will see by Figs. 10 and 11 that the blades are nailed to the side of short spoke sticks, and the sticks are driven into holes bored in the spool hub. The hub turns on the rounded end of the shaft stick (Fig. 12), and the square end of this shaft is slotted to receive the fan-shaped tail (Figs. 12 and 13).

The Eight-blade Windmill in Fig. 9 has a spool hub (Fig. 10), and the blades are made from cigar-box wood, shingles, tin, or cardboard (Fig. 11). You will see by Figs. 10 and 11 that the blades are nailed to the sides of short spoke sticks, and the sticks are inserted into holes drilled into the spool hub. The hub rotates on the rounded end of the shaft stick (Fig. 12), and the square end of this shaft is cut to fit the fan-shaped tail (Figs. 12 and 13).

Fig. 9.—An Eight-blade Windmill.

Fig. 9.—An Eight-Blade Wind Turbine.

For the Hub use a large ribbon-spool. You can get one at any drygoods store. Locate eight holes around the [Pg 6] center of the spool at equal distances from one another, and bore these with a gimlet or bit, or cut them with the small blade of your jack-knife.

For the Hub use a large ribbon spool. You can find one at any general store. Mark eight holes around the [Pg 6] center of the spool, spaced evenly apart, and drill these with a small drill or cut them with the small blade of your pocket knife.

Cut the Eight Blades 6 inches long, 5 inches wide on their wide edge, and 1½ inches wide on their narrow edge. Prepare the hub sticks about ½ inch by ¾ inch by 4½ inches in size, and whittle one end pointed to fit in the hub (Fig. 11). Fasten the blades to the spokes with nails long enough to drive through the spokes and clinch on the under side. Glue the spokes in the hub holes, turning them so the blades will stand at about the angle shown.

Cut the Eight Blades 6 inches long, 5 inches wide at their widest point, and 1½ inches wide at their narrowest point. Prepare the hub sticks to be about ½ inch by ¾ inch by 4½ inches in size, and shape one end to a point so it fits into the hub (Fig. 11). Attach the blades to the spokes with nails that are long enough to go through the spokes and bend over on the underside. Glue the spokes into the hub holes, turning them so the blades will be at about the angle shown.

Fig. 10.—Spool Hub. Fig. 11.—Blades. Fig. 12.—Shaft. Fig. 13.—Tail.

The Shaft should be made of a hard wood stick about ¾ inch by 1½ inches by 30 inches in size. Cut the round end small enough so the hub will turn freely on it, and [Pg 7] punch a small hole through it so a brad may be driven through to hold the hub in place. Cut the slot in the square end with a saw.

The Shaft should be made of a sturdy wooden stick about ¾ inch by 1½ inches by 30 inches in size. Trim the round end so that the hub can turn on it freely, and [Pg 7] punch a small hole through it to drive a brad through and secure the hub in place. Use a saw to cut the slot in the square end.

Cut the Tail of the shape shown in Fig. 13.

Pivot the Windmill upon the top of a post support, in the same manner as directed for the other windmills.

Pivot the Windmill at the top of a post support, just like instructed for the other windmills.

Figure 14 shows how the toy windmill may be rigged up

Figure 14 shows how the toy windmill can be set up.

Fig. 14.—How the Windmill may be Rigged up to Operate a Toy Jumping-Jack.

Fig. 14.—How to Set Up the Windmill to Work a Toy Jumping-Jack.

To Operate a Toy Jumping-Jack, by supporting the jumping-Jack on a bracket, and connecting its string to the hub of the windmill. You can make your jumping-Jack like the one in Fig. 110, the details of which are shown in Fig. 113.

To Operate a Toy Jumping-Jack, by supporting the jumping jack on a bracket and connecting its string to the hub of the windmill. You can make your jumping jack like the one in Fig. 110, the details of which are shown in Fig. 113.

Cut the upright of the bracket (A, Figs. 14 and 15) 14 inches long, and the crosspiece (B) 7 inches long. Nail A to B, and nail the jumping-Jack at its center to the end of B (Fig. 15). Fasten the triangular block (C) to the [Pg 8] lower end of A, and then nail both A and C to the edge of the shaft at a point that will bring the string of the jumping-Jack a trifle beyond the windmill blades.

Cut the vertical part of the bracket (A, Figs. 14 and 15) to 14 inches long, and the crosspiece (B) to 7 inches long. Nail A to B, and attach the jumping-Jack at its center to the end of B (Fig. 15). Secure the triangular block (C) to the bottom end of A, then nail both A and C to the edge of the shaft at a spot that brings the string of the jumping-Jack slightly beyond the windmill blades.

Fig. 15.—How the Jumping-Jack is Supported.
Fig. 16.—Spool Hub.

Fasten a small stick with a brad driven in one end, in notches cut in the hub's flanges (Fig. 16), and connect the brad and Jack's string with a piece of wire or strong string. Then as the windmill revolves it will operate the toy in the manner indicated in Figs. 14 and 15.

Fasten a small stick with a brad inserted in one end into notches cut in the hub's flanges (Fig. 16), and connect the brad and Jack's string with a piece of wire or strong string. Then, as the windmill turns, it will work the toy as shown in Figs. 14 and 15.

[Pg 9]

CHAPTER II

HOME-MADE KITES

The Malay tailless kite is probably the most practical kind ever invented. It will fly in a wind that the tail variety could not withstand, and it will fly in a breeze too light to carry up most other forms of kites. It is also a strong pulling kite, and can be used for sending aloft lanterns and flags. For the purpose of lifting, the pulling strength can be doubled by flying two Malays in tandem.

The Malay tailless kite is likely the most practical type ever created. It can fly in winds that the tailed version couldn’t handle, and it can also rise in a breeze that's too light for most other kites. Additionally, it's a strong pulling kite, making it useful for launching lanterns and flags. To increase lifting power, you can fly two Malays together in tandem.

Fig. 17.—A Malay Tailless Kite.

How to Make a Malay. Figure 17 shows a Malay kite [Pg 10] in flight, Fig. 18 a detail of the completed kite, Fig. 19 the completed framework, and Figs. 20, 21, and 22 the details for preparing the frame sticks.

How to Make a Malay. Figure 17 shows a Malay kite [Pg 10] in flight, Fig. 18 a close-up of the finished kite, Fig. 19 the finished framework, and Figs. 20, 21, and 22 the instructions for getting the frame sticks ready.

The Sticks. This kite has a vertical stick and a bow-stick, each of which should be 40 inches long, about ¾ inch wide, and ³/₈ inch thick, for a kite of medium size. In the cutting of the sticks lies half the secret of making a kite that will fly successfully.

The Sticks. This kite has a vertical stick and a bow stick, each of which should be 40 inches long, about ¾ inch wide, and ³/₈ inch thick, for a medium-sized kite. The way you cut the sticks is half the key to making a kite that flies well.

Fig. 18.—Completed Malay Kite with Belly-band Attached.

Fig. 18.—Finished Malay Kite with Belly-band Attached.

Drive a small nail or large tack into each end of the two sticks, to fasten the framing-string to (Figs. 20 and 21), and notch the side edges of the bow-stick near each end for the attachment of the bow-string (Figs. 21 and 22).

Drive a small nail or large tack into each end of the two sticks to secure the framing string to (Figs. 20 and 21), and create notches on the side edges of the bow stick near each end for attaching the bow string (Figs. 21 and 22).

The amount to bend the bow-stick is important. For a kite with a bow 40 inches long the distance between the string and stick should be 6 inches (Fig. 21). Use a strong twine for the bow-string, and tie it securely to the notched ends.

The amount to bend the bow-stick is important. For a kite with a bow 40 inches long, the distance between the string and stick should be 6 inches (Fig. 21). Use a strong twine for the bow-string, and tie it securely to the notched ends.

Framing the Sticks. Fasten the bow-stick at its exact center to the vertical stick, placing it 4 inches down from the top of the vertical stick, as indicated in Fig. 19. Drive a couple of brads through the two sticks to hold them [Pg 11] together, and then reinforce the connection by wrapping the joint with strong linen thread, crossing the thread in the manner shown.

Framing the Sticks. Secure the bow-stick at its exact center to the vertical stick, positioning it 4 inches down from the top of the vertical stick, as shown in Fig. 19. Drive a couple of brads through both sticks to keep them together, and then strengthen the connection by wrapping the joint with sturdy linen thread, crossing the thread as illustrated. [Pg 11]

Fig. 19.—Framework of Malay Kite.

Fig. 19.—Structure of Malay Kite.

When the two sticks have been joined, connect their ends with the framing-string. Stretch this string from stick to stick, and tie securely to the end nails. Instead of the end nails, the sticks may be notched to receive the framing-string, but the nails are more satisfactory because the string can be tied fast to them and will not slip.

When the two sticks are joined, connect their ends with the framing string. Stretch this string from one stick to the other and tie it securely to the end nails. Instead of using end nails, the sticks can be notched to hold the framing string, but the nails are better because the string can be tied tightly to them and won't slip.

Covering the Framework. The strong light-weight brown wrapping-paper now so generally used makes an excellent covering for the framework. A few sheets can be purchased at a near-by store for the purpose. You will likely have to paste together two or more sheets to make one large enough. The paper should be placed on the outer face of the bow-stick, and should be allowed a little fullness instead of being stretched tight as on hexagonal tail kites. Lap the edges of the paper over the framing-string in the ordinary way of covering a kite.

Covering the Framework. The strong, lightweight brown wrapping paper that's commonly used today makes a great cover for the framework. You can buy a few sheets at a nearby store for this purpose. You will probably need to glue together two or more sheets to create one large enough. The paper should be placed on the outer side of the bow stick and should have a bit of extra material instead of being pulled tight like on hexagonal tail kites. Overlap the edges of the paper over the framing string in the usual way of covering a kite.

[Pg 12]

Attach the Bridle at the intersection of the bow-stick and vertical stick, and at the lower end of the vertical stick (Fig. 18), and make it of the right length so when held over to one side it will reach to the end of the bow, as indicated in Fig. 18. Tie the flying line securely at the point A (Fig. 18); then the kite will be ready for its maiden flight.

Attach the Bridle at the intersection of the bow stick and vertical stick, and at the lower end of the vertical stick (Fig. 18). Make sure it’s the right length so that when you pull it to one side, it reaches the end of the bow, as shown in Fig. 18. Securely tie the flying line at point A (Fig. 18); then the kite will be ready for its first flight.

Fig. 20.—Detail of Vertical Stick.
Fig. 21.—Detail of Bow-stick.
Fig. 22.—Detail of End of Bow-stick.

Flying-Line. The kind of cord which a mason uses for his plumb-lines is splendid for flying the Malay kite. If you cannot get some balls of this, be certain that what you do get can be relied upon, because it is provoking to lose a kite which you have taken a great deal of pains in making, through the breaking of the flying line.

Flying-Line. The type of string that a mason uses for his plumb lines works great for flying a Malay kite. If you can't find any spools of this, make sure whatever you do find is reliable, because it's frustrating to lose a kite you've put a lot of effort into making just because the flying line broke.

The Box-kite. Of the more pretentious kites, none is as popular as the rectangular box-kite.

The Box-kite. Among the more ambitious kites, none is as popular as the rectangular box-kite.

Box-kites may be purchased ready-made in a number of sizes, but they are not cheap, and it will pay any boy to take the time necessary to make one. While their construction [Pg 13] requires considerable more work than the single-plane type of kite, it is not difficult.

Box kites can be bought pre-made in various sizes, but they aren't cheap, so it's worth any kid's time to build one. Although making one takes significantly more effort than a single-plane kite, it's not hard to do.

Fig. 23.—Raising the Box-kite.

Fig. 23.—Flying the Box Kite.

Figures 23 and 24 show a kite of scientifically developed proportions. Pine, spruce, and whitewood are the best materials for

Figures 23 and 24 show a kite designed with scientific precision. Pine, spruce, and whitewood are the best materials for

The Kite Sticks, though any strong, light-weight wood of straight grain may be used if easier to obtain. If you live near a lumber yard or planing-mill, possibly you can get strips of just the size you require from the waste heap, for the mere asking, or for a few cents get them ripped out of a board. If not, you will find it easy enough to cut them yourself with a sharp rip-saw.

The Kite Sticks, but you can use any strong, lightweight wood with a straight grain if it's easier to find. If you’re near a lumber yard or a mill, you might be able to grab strips of the right size from the scrap pile for free or get some cut from a board for just a few cents. If that’s not an option, you can easily cut them yourself with a sharp rip saw.

The Side Frames. Cut the four horizontal sticks ³/₈ inch thick and ³/₈ inch wide, by 36 inches long (A, Fig. 25), and the four upright connecting sticks (B, Fig. 25) ¼ inch thick, ½ inch wide, and 10 inches long. Tack the upright sticks to the horizontal ones 6 inches from the ends of the latter, as shown in Fig. 25, using slender brads for the purpose, [Pg 14] and clinching the projecting ends. In fastening these sticks, be careful to set sticks B at right angles to sticks A.

The Side Frames. Cut four horizontal pieces that are ³/₈ inch thick and ³/₈ inch wide, and 36 inches long (A, Fig. 25), and cut four vertical connecting pieces (B, Fig. 25) that are ¼ inch thick, ½ inch wide, and 10 inches long. Attach the vertical pieces to the horizontal ones 6 inches from each end, as shown in Fig. 25, using thin brads to secure them, [Pg 14] and bend the ends over. When fastening these pieces, make sure to position pieces B at right angles to pieces A.

Fig. 24.—The Box-kite.

Fig. 24.—The Box Kite.

After fastening together the side-frame sticks as shown in Fig. 25, lay them aside until you have prepared the cross-section of the kite.

After securing the side-frame sticks as shown in Fig. 25, set them aside until you’ve prepared the cross-section of the kite.

Fig. 25.—Make Two Side Frames like this.

Fig. 25.—Create two side frames like this.

The Covering for the End Cells. A light-weight muslin or tough paper should be used for this material. Cheese-cloth will do if you give it a coat of thin varnish to fill up [Pg 15] the pores and make it air-tight, after it has been put on. The light-weight brown wrapping-paper now so commonly used is good covering material.

The Covering for the End Cells. A light-weight muslin or sturdy paper should be used for this material. Cheesecloth works as well if you apply a layer of thin varnish to seal the pores and make it airtight after it's been put on. The light-weight brown wrapping paper commonly used today is also a good covering material.

The cell bands for the kite illustrated should be 10 inches wide and 5 feet 9 inches long. If of cloth, they should be hemmed along each edge to prevent raveling and to make a firm edge. If of paper, the edges should be folded over a light framing-cord and pasted. Sew together the ends of the cloth bands, or paste the ends of the paper bands, lapping them so the measurement around the inside will be exactly 5 feet 8 inches, the proper measurement around the sticks of the finished kite.

The cell bands for the kite shown should be 10 inches wide and 5 feet 9 inches long. If they're made of cloth, they should be hemmed on each edge to avoid fraying and to create a strong edge. If they're made of paper, the edges should be folded over a light framing cord and glued. Sew the ends of the cloth bands together, or glue the ends of the paper bands, overlapping them so the total measurement around the inside is exactly 5 feet 8 inches, which is the correct measurement around the sticks of the completed kite.

Fig. 26.—Cross-section of the Box-kite.

Fig. 26.—Cross-section of the Box kite.

Assembling the Kite. Slip the bands over the side frames, spread the frames to their fullest extent, and hold them in this position by means of sticks sprung in temporarily between upright sticks B. Then measure the proper length for the diagonal braces C (Fig. 26). These sticks should be notched at their ends to fit over the sticks [Pg 16] A, as shown in Fig. 27, and they should be a trifle long so they will be slightly bow-shaped when put in place. In this way the frames will keep the cloth or paper bands stretched tight.

Assembling the Kite. Slip the bands over the side frames, spread the frames as wide as possible, and hold them in this position using sticks temporarily placed between the upright sticks B. Then, measure the correct length for the diagonal braces C (Fig. 26). These sticks should have notches at the ends to fit over the sticks [Pg 16] A, as shown in Fig. 27, and they should be a bit longer so they'll have a slight bow when in place. This way, the frames will keep the cloth or paper bands stretched tight.

Fig. 27.—Detail of Diagonal Braces.

Fig. 27.—Detail of Diagonal Supports.

The notched ends of the diagonals should be lashed with thread to keep them from splitting. Lashings of thread around the frame sticks A, as shown in Figs. 25 and Fig. 27, will keep the ends of the braces from slipping away from the uprights B, which is the proper position for them. Bind the braces together at their centers with thread, as shown in Figs. 24 and 26. Coat the lashings with glue after winding them, and the thread will hold its position better.

The notched ends of the diagonals should be secured with thread to prevent them from splitting. Wrapping thread around the frame sticks A, as shown in Figs. 25 and Fig. 27, will stop the ends of the braces from sliding away from the uprights B, which is their correct position. Tie the braces together at their centers with thread, as illustrated in Figs. 24 and 26. After wrapping, coat the lashings with glue so the thread will stay in place better.

The cloth or paper bands should be fastened to each horizontal frame stick with two tacks placed near the edges of the bands.

The fabric or paper strips should be secured to each horizontal frame stick with two tacks positioned near the edges of the strips.

There are several methods of

There are various ways to

Attaching the Bridle, but that shown in Fig. 244 is generally considered the most satisfactory. Of course, the kite is flown other side up, with the bridle underneath. The three-point attachment has cords fastened at the two outer corners of one cell, and a third cord to the center of the outer edge of the other cell; and the four-point attachment has cords attached at the four outer corners [Pg 17] of the kite. The ends of the bridle should be brought together and tied at a distance of about 3 feet from the kite. It is a good plan to connect the ends to a fancy-work ring.

Attaching the Bridle, but the one shown in Fig. 244 is generally considered the best option. Of course, the kite is flown upside down, with the bridle underneath. The three-point attachment has cords secured at the two outer corners of one cell, and a third cord connected to the center of the outer edge of the other cell; the four-point attachment has cords fastened at the four outer corners of the kite. The ends of the bridle should be brought together and tied about 3 feet away from the kite. It's a good idea to attach the ends to a decorative ring. [Pg 17]

Fig. 28.—A Good Hand Kite-reel.

Fig. 28.—A Quality Hand Kite Reel.

A Good Hand Kite-reel that can be held in one hand and operated by the other is shown in Fig. 28. Get a ½-lb. size baking-powder can for the winding-spool, locate the center of the cover and bottom end, and with a can-opener cut a hole 1 inch in diameter through each (Fig. 29). Then cut two wooden disks 5 inches in diameter for the spool flanges. These may be cut out of thin wood. If you do not wish to take the trouble to cut them round, just saw off the four corners diagonally, making the pieces octagonal. Bore a 1-inch hole through the center of each piece. Tack the can cover to the exact center of one disk, as shown in Fig. 30, and the can to the exact center of the other. Then fit the cover on the can, and glue a strip of cloth or heavy paper around the joint to [Pg 18] keep the cover from working off, and the spool will be completed.

A Good Hand Kite-reel that can be held in one hand and operated with the other is shown in Fig. 28. Get a ½-lb. baking powder can to use as the winding spool. Find the center of the top and bottom ends of the can, and using a can opener, cut a hole 1 inch in diameter in each (Fig. 29). Next, cut two wooden disks that are 5 inches in diameter for the spool flanges. You can use thin wood for this. If you don’t want to bother cutting them into circles, simply saw off the four corners diagonally to make the pieces octagonal. Drill a 1-inch hole through the center of each disk. Attach the can cover to the exact center of one disk, as shown in Fig. 30, and the can to the center of the other disk. Then, fit the cover onto the can, and glue a strip of cloth or thick paper around the joint to keep the cover from coming off, and your spool will be complete.

Figs. 29 and 30.—Details of Hand Kite-reel.

The axle upon which the spool turns is a piece of broom-handle 10 inches or so in length (Fig. 30). Bore two holes through it in the positions shown, for pins to keep the spool in its proper place. Wooden pegs can be cut for pins. For a winding handle, pivot a spool on the right-hand disk by means of a nail or screw. The inner flange of the spool handle may be cut off as shown in Fig. 28.

The axle that the spool turns on is a broom handle about 10 inches long (Fig. 30). Drill two holes through it in the positions shown, for pins to hold the spool in place. You can cut wooden pegs to use as pins. For a winding handle, attach a spool to the right-hand disk using a nail or screw. The inner flange of the spool handle can be cut off as shown in Fig. 28.

[Pg 19]

Both hands are frequently needed to haul in string quickly enough to bring a kite around into the wind, or to handle it when it pulls very strong, and then there is nothing to do but drop the hand reel upon the ground, unless you have an assistant to give it to. This is where the advantage of

Both hands are often needed to quickly reel in the string to turn the kite into the wind or to manage it when it pulls hard. If you don't have someone to hand it to, all you can do is drop the hand reel on the ground. This is where the advantage of

Fig. 31.—A Body Kite-reel.
Fig. 32.—Detail of Axle Support.
Fig. 33.—Detail of Crank.

A Body Kite-reel comes in. With it strapped about the waist, it will go wherever you go, and always be within easy reach. Figure 31 shows one simple to make. The spool of this is made similar to that of the hand reel shown in Fig. 28. If, however, you wish a larger winding-spool, you can use a larger can than the baking-powder can—a tomato can or syrup can—and increase the diameter of the wooden flanges accordingly. Instead of the spool turning [Pg 20] upon the broom-handle axle, the axle turns with the spool, so the spool must be fastened to the axle.

A Body Kite Reel comes in. When strapped around your waist, it goes wherever you go and is always within easy reach. Figure 31 shows how to make one simply. The spool is made similarly to the hand reel shown in Fig. 28. If you want a larger winding spool, you can use a bigger can than a baking powder can—a tomato can or syrup can—and adjust the size of the wooden flanges accordingly. Instead of the spool rotating on the broom handle axle, the axle turns with the spool, so the spool needs to be attached to the axle. [Pg 20]

The axle supports A (Figs. 31 and 32) should be about 7 inches long, 4 inches wide at the wide end, and 2 inches wide at the narrow end. Cut the holes to receive the axle ends a trifle large so the axle will turn easily. Cut the connecting crosspieces B of the right length so there will be about ¼ inch between the ends of the spool and supports A.

The axle supports A (Figs. 31 and 32) should be about 7 inches long, 4 inches wide at the wider end, and 2 inches wide at the narrower end. Make the holes for the axle ends slightly bigger so that the axle can turn easily. Cut the connecting crosspieces B to the right length so that there’s about ¼ inch between the ends of the spool and supports A.

Cut the crank stick C as shown in Fig. 33, bore a hole for the axle end to fit in, bore another hole in the edge for a set-screw to hold the stick in place on the axle end, and pivot a spool in place for a handle. If the hole in the spool is too large for the head of the nail used for pivoting, slip a small iron or leather washer over the nail.

Cut the crank stick C as shown in Fig. 33, drill a hole for the axle end to fit into, drill another hole in the edge for a set screw to hold the stick in place on the axle end, and attach a spool in place for a handle. If the hole in the spool is too big for the head of the nail used for pivoting, slide a small iron or leather washer over the nail.

An old belt or shawl-strap should be used for strapping the kite-reel to your body. Fasten this to the ends of the axle supports A by nailing the strips D to them as shown in Fig. 32.

An old belt or shawl-strap should be used to attach the kite reel to your body. Secure this to the ends of the axle supports A by nailing the strips D to them as shown in Fig. 32.

[Pg 21]

CHAPTER III

A HOME-MADE MODEL AEROPLANE

Model aeronautics has become nearly as popular as kite flying, and girls as well as boys have taken to building these unique air toys.

Model aeronautics has become almost as popular as kite flying, and both girls and boys are getting into building these unique flying toys.

The model aeroplane requires more work than ordinary kite construction. It also requires more patience and greater accuracy, because each part of the little aircraft must be made just so, assembled just so, and "tuned-up" just so, to produce a model which will give a good account of itself. Of course your first model will probably not be perfect. But if you do your work correctly and carefully it will fly, and the experience you have acquired will make it possible to turn out a more nearly perfect second model.

The model airplane takes more effort than building a regular kite. It also demands more patience and precision, because each component of the small aircraft needs to be made, assembled, and "tuned" just right to create a model that performs well. Of course, your first model probably won't be perfect. But if you work carefully and accurately, it will fly, and the skills you gain will help you create a much better second model.

Many types of model aeroplanes have been devised, but those of the simplest form of construction have made the best showing. The majority of record-breaking models have been of one type—a triangular framework, equipped with two planes, and a pair of propellers operated by a pair of rubber-strand motors. A most successful model of this type is shown in Fig. 34, and described and illustrated on the following pages. This model has a distance record of 1620 feet made at the Aero Club of Illinois' aviation [Pg 22] field at Cicero, Chicago, where it flew 16 feet beyond the fence of the 160 acre field. The model weighs but 5½ ounces, has 9-inch propellers of 27 inch pitch, and is in every essential a speed machine.

Many types of model airplanes have been created, but the simplest designs have performed the best. Most record-breaking models share a common design—a triangular frame, with two wings and a pair of propellers powered by rubber-band motors. A very successful model of this type is shown in Fig. 34, and it is described and illustrated on the following pages. This model has a distance record of 1,620 feet, achieved at the Aero Club of Illinois' aviation [Pg 22] field in Cicero, Chicago, where it flew 16 feet past the fence of the 160-acre field. The model weighs only 5½ ounces, has 9-inch propellers with a 27-inch pitch, and is fundamentally a speed machine.

Fig. 34.—Launching a Model Aeroplane.

Fig. 34.—Launching a Model Plane.

The first part of the model to make is the triangular

The first part of the model to create is the triangular

Fuselage, or motor base. This consists of two side sticks, splines, or spars (A, Fig. 35) of straight-grained white pine cut to the dimensions marked upon the drawing, with their bow ends beveled off for a distance of 1¼ inches, glued together, and bound with thread. The stern ends have a spread of 8 inches, and are braced at that distance by the separator B (Fig. 35). This separator is fastened flatwise between sticks A, and its edges are reduced as shown in the small section drawing of Fig. 37 so they will offer less resistance to the air. [Pg 23] This piece is fastened between sticks A with brads. Separators C, D, and E are of the sizes marked in Fig. 35, and of the proper length to fit between side sticks A at the places indicated on the drawing. They are cut oval-shaped, as shown in the small section drawing in Fig. 37.

Fuselage, or motor base. This consists of two side sticks, splines, or spars (A, Fig. 35) made from straight-grained white pine, shaped to the dimensions specified in the drawing. The front ends are beveled off for a distance of 1¼ inches, glued together, and tied with thread. The back ends spread out by 8 inches and are supported at that distance by the separator B (Fig. 35). This separator is attached flat between the sticks A, and its edges are tapered as shown in the small section drawing of Fig. 37 to reduce air resistance. [Pg 23] This piece is secured between sticks A with brads. Separators C, D, and E are of the sizes indicated in Fig. 35 and are cut to the correct length to fit between the side sticks A at the specified locations in the drawing. They are cut in an oval shape, as illustrated in the small section drawing in Fig. 37.

Figs. 35 and 36.—Working-drawings of Model Aeroplane Designed and Built by Harry Wells.
This Model has a record of 1620 feet made at the Aero Club of Illinois' Aviation Field at Cicero, Chicago.

Figs. 35 and 36.—Working drawings of a model airplane designed and built by Harry Wells.
This model has a record of 1620 feet set at the Aero Club of Illinois' aviation field in Cicero, Chicago.

Before fastening the separators in position,

Before securing the separators in place,

The Thrust Bearings for the propellers, and the end plates for connecting the wire stays, must be prepared. Figure 38 shows a dimensioned detail of the thrust bearings, and Fig. 37 shows how they are bound to the ends of sticks A with thread. These are cut out of brass, bent [Pg 24] into the shape shown, and have a hole pierced through the folded tip for the propeller-shaft to run through, another through one end for the brad to pass through that pins stick A to B, and another through the other end to fasten the end of the wire stays to. The small detail in Fig. 37 shows the end plates for the wire stays. These are made no longer than is necessary for the connecting holes for the wire-stay ends. Pierce a hole through the center of each plate for the brad to pass through which fastens sticks A to the ends of the separators. The plates are bound to sticks A with thread.

The Thrust Bearings for the propellers and the end plates for connecting the wire stays must be prepared. Figure 38 shows a detailed drawing of the thrust bearings, and Fig. 37 illustrates how they are attached to the ends of sticks A with thread. These components are cut from brass, bent into the shape shown, and have a hole drilled through the folded tip for the propeller shaft to pass through, another hole at one end for the brad that connects stick A to B, and another hole at the other end to secure the end of the wire stays. The small detail in Fig. 37 shows the end plates for the wire stays. These plates are kept as short as necessary for the connecting holes for the wire stay ends. Drill a hole through the center of each plate for the brad that secures sticks A to the ends of the separators. The plates are attached to sticks A with thread.

Fig. 37.—Detail of Fuselage and Motor of the Wells Model.
Fig. 38.—Detail of Thrust Bearing, Propeller-shaft, and Connections.
Fig. 39.—Detail of Bow Hook and how Rubber Motor is Connected to it.

Fig. 37.—Close-up of the Fuselage and Engine of the Wells Model.
Fig. 38.—Close-up of the Thrust Bearing, Propeller Shaft, and Connections.
Fig. 39.—Close-up of the Bow Hook and how the Rubber Motor is Attached to it.

The Bow Hooks support the bow ends of the rubber motor, and are made upon the ends of a piece of heavy piano-wire bent V-shaped to fit over the ends of sticks A (Fig. 39). Bind the wire to the sticks with thread, coating the thread with glue to make it hold fast (Fig. 37).

The Bow Hooks hold the bow ends of the rubber motor and are made from the ends of a piece of heavy piano wire bent into a V shape to fit over the ends of sticks A (Fig. 39). Secure the wire to the sticks with thread, applying glue to the thread to ensure it stays in place (Fig. 37).

The Main Plane has a framework built as shown in Fig. 40, with the front or entering-edge, and the rear or following-edge, [Pg 25] made of sticks of white pine or other light-weight wood, and the ribs and tips on the ends made of No. 16 gauge aluminum wire. The ends of the frame sticks are cut away on their outer edge, to receive the ends of the wire forming the tips, and the ends of these wires, and the laps of the wire ribs, are bound in position with thread, and the thread then coated with glue to hold it in position.

The Main Plane has a framework built as shown in Fig. 40, with the front or entering-edge, and the rear or following-edge, [Pg 25] made of sticks of white pine or other lightweight wood, and the ribs and tips on the ends made of No. 16 gauge aluminum wire. The ends of the frame sticks are cut away on their outer edge to fit the ends of the wire forming the tips, and these wire ends, along with the laps of the wire ribs, are secured in place with thread, which is then coated with glue to keep it secure.

The Elevator, or front plane, has a framework made as shown in Fig. 41. Its entering-edge is a stick, and its following-edge, ribs, and end tips, are made of No. 16 gauge aluminum wire. You will notice by Fig. 41 that the center ribs cross the following-edge of the frame and are bent up in the form of a flat loop. This loop rests against the under side of the fuselage, and gives the elevator its proper angle for stability (Fig. 36). The tips are bent up to add stability.

The Elevator, or front plane, has a structure as shown in Fig. 41. Its leading edge is a stick, and its trailing edge, ribs, and end tips are made of No. 16 gauge aluminum wire. You will see in Fig. 41 that the center ribs cross the trailing edge of the frame and are bent up into a flat loop. This loop rests against the underside of the fuselage and gives the elevator its correct angle for stability (Fig. 36). The tips are bent up to enhance stability.

The frames of the main plane and elevator are covered with china-silk, which may either be sewed or glued in place, and this is given a thin coat of shellac to make it air-tight and taut. The covering must be put on smoothly to reduce to a minimum what is known as skin resistance—the resistance that the plane makes to the air while passing through it.

The frames of the main plane and elevator are covered with china silk, which can be either sewn or glued in place, and then given a thin coat of shellac to make it airtight and tight. The covering needs to be applied smoothly to minimize what is known as skin resistance—the resistance the plane encounters while moving through the air.

The main plane and elevator are held to the fuselage by means of rubber-bands slipped beneath them and over the fuselage, and unlike the planes of the majority of models, are fastened to the under side of the fuselage. Figure 36 shows the approximate position of the elevator. That of [Pg 26] the main plane will vary under different air conditions, sometimes being placed over the separator C, and at other times closer to separator B than is shown in Fig. 35. Therefore, you must adjust your plane and elevator—this operation is known as tuning—to suit the condition of the atmosphere, until you find the positions where they will give the machine the greatest stability. A great factor in the successful flight of a model aeroplane lies in properly tuning the planes, both laterally and longitudinally, and of course the planes must balance at their centers, in order to make the machine balance properly.

The main wing and elevator are attached to the fuselage using rubber bands that are placed beneath them and over the fuselage. Unlike most models, they are secured to the underside of the fuselage. Figure 36 indicates the approximate position of the elevator. The position of the main wing varies under different air conditions, sometimes being placed over separator C, and at other times being closer to separator B than shown in Fig. 35. Therefore, you need to adjust your wing and elevator—this process is called tuning—to match the atmospheric conditions until you find the positions that provide the greatest stability for the machine. A significant factor in the successful flight of a model airplane depends on properly tuning the wings, both laterally and longitudinally, and, of course, the wings must be balanced at their centers to ensure that the machine balances correctly.

Fig. 40.—Detail of the Main Plane Framework of the Wells Model.
Fig. 41.—Detail of the Elevator Framework.
Fig. 42.—Detail of Fin.

Fig. 40.—Detail of the Main Plane Structure of the Wells Model.
Fig. 41.—Detail of the Elevator Structure.
Fig. 42.—Detail of the Fin.

The Fin directly over the center of the elevator (Figs. 34 and 36) is provided for stability, and may be used as a rudder by turning it slightly to one side or the other. It is made of No. 34 gauge sheet aluminum, cut to the form [Pg 27] shown in Fig. 42. Its vertical edge is bent around a piece of heavy wire, as shown in the plan detail of Fig. 42, and the lower end of the wire is fastened upright between the bow ends of sticks A.

The Fin directly above the center of the elevator (Figs. 34 and 36) provides stability and can be used as a rudder by turning it slightly to one side or the other. It’s made from No. 34 gauge sheet aluminum, shaped as shown in [Pg 27] Fig. 42. Its vertical edge is curled around a piece of heavy wire, as illustrated in the plan detail of Fig. 42, and the lower end of the wire is secured upright between the bow ends of sticks A.

Fig. 43.—The Wells Model Propeller.

The Propellers are the most difficult part of the model aeroplane to make. They must be very accurately cut, and must be of identical size and pitch. The pitch of a propeller is, theoretically, the distance forward that it advances in one complete revolution.

The Propellers are the toughest part of the model airplane to create. They need to be cut very precisely and should be the same size and pitch. The pitch of a propeller is, theoretically, the distance it moves forward in one complete turn.

Figure 43 shows one of the propellers of Harry Wells' machine, which is 9 inches in length and has a 27-inch pitch. Figure 44 shows

Figure 43 shows one of the propellers of Harry Wells' machine, which is 9 inches long and has a 27-inch pitch. Figure 44 shows

How to Prepare the Propellers. The pair must be opposites, that is, one must be of right-hand pitch and the other of left-hand pitch, or, in other words, the upper end of the right-hand pitch propeller turns to the right, and that of the left-hand pitch propeller turns to the left, when viewing them from the rear.

How to Prepare the Propellers. The two must be opposites, meaning one should have a right-hand pitch and the other a left-hand pitch. In other words, when viewed from the rear, the top of the right-hand pitch propeller rotates to the right, while the top of the left-hand pitch propeller rotates to the left.

Fig. 44.—How to Prepare a 9-inch Propeller.

Fig. 44.—How to Make a 9-inch Propeller.

[Pg 28]

Step A consists in properly planing up a straight-grained block of white pine 1½ inches thick, 2 inches wide, and 9 inches long, with its sides and ends straight and true, for

Step A involves carefully planing a straight-grained block of white pine that is 1½ inches thick, 2 inches wide, and 9 inches long, ensuring its sides and ends are straight and true, for

The Propeller Blank. Draw a line around the four faces of this block at the exact center of the length. Then on faces C and D, lay off a distance of ½ inch on the center-line, measuring from the edge of face B, for the thickness of the propeller-hub, and draw diagonal lines from the upper and lower left-hand corners of faces C and D to the end of the hub center-line (Step B). Then cut away the portions outside of these lines, as shown in Step C. Lay out the hub upon faces A and B of the block, with a ½-inch diameter, and bore a small hole through the center to receive the propeller-shaft (Step C). Draw diagonals from the corners to the center-line of the hub (Step D); then cut away the wood outside of these lines (Step E).

The Propeller Blank. Draw a line around the four sides of this block at the exact center along the length. On sides C and D, measure ½ inch along the centerline from the edge of side B for the thickness of the propeller hub, and draw diagonal lines from the upper and lower left corners of sides C and D to the end of the hub centerline (Step B). Then remove the parts outside of these lines, as shown in Step C. Outline the hub on sides A and B of the block with a diameter of ½ inch, and drill a small hole through the center for the propeller shaft (Step C). Draw diagonal lines from the corners to the hub centerline (Step D); then cut away the wood outside of these lines (Step E).

The next step (F) consists in laying out the form of the propeller blade upon all four sides and ends of the block, and Step G is the final one of cutting out the propeller, scooping out its blades concave on one side, and carving them convex on the opposite side. A very sharp knife must be used for cutting; and the work must be done slowly and carefully, because the least slip is likely to ruin the propeller. The entering-edge of each blade is the almost straight edge, and should be cut very thin. The ends of the blades should also be cut thin, while the hub should be cut away as much as can safely be done without weakening the propeller.

The next step (F) involves outlining the shape of the propeller blade on all four sides and ends of the block, and Step G is the final step of cutting out the propeller, shaping the blades concave on one side and convex on the other. You need to use a very sharp knife for cutting, and it's important to work slowly and carefully, because even a small mistake can ruin the propeller. The entering-edge of each blade is the nearly straight edge and should be cut very thin. The ends of the blades should also be thinned out, while the hub should be trimmed as much as possible without compromising the strength of the propeller.

[Pg 29]

When you have completed cutting the propellers, place them at their centers across the edge of a knife-blade, and if they do not balance perfectly, locate the trouble and correct it. Finish the work with fine emery-paper, and then shellac it. Some boys glue silk over the ends of their propeller blades, for a distance of ½ inch or so, to reinforce them and make them less likely to split.

When you've finished cutting the propellers, lay them across the edge of a knife blade at their centers. If they don't balance perfectly, figure out what's wrong and fix it. Complete the job with fine sandpaper, and then apply shellac. Some guys glue silk over the ends of their propeller blades, around ½ inch or so, to strengthen them and reduce the chance of them splitting.

The Propeller-shafts are made of heavy piano-wire, bent into a hook at one end (Fig. 38) to receive the rubber strands of the motor, and cut of the right length to extend through the hole in the bearing, through a glass bead, through the propeller, and then to bend over the side of the hub (Figs. 37 and 38). By bending over the end of the shaft against the hub, it is held securely in place.

The Propeller-shafts are made of thick piano wire, bent into a hook at one end (Fig. 38) to attach the rubber strands of the motor, and cut to the right length to go through the hole in the bearing, through a glass bead, through the propeller, and then bend over the side of the hub (Figs. 37 and 38). By bending the end of the shaft against the hub, it is held securely in place.

The Motors consist of twelve strands of ¹/₈-inch flat rubber, each, and as these are 1 yard in length, exactly 24 yards of rubber are required. The rubber is not connected direct to the hooks on the bow and propeller-shafts, as the wire would quickly cut through the strands. Instead, small rings are bent out of wire, with pieces of small rubber-tubing slipped over the wire, and the ends of the rubber strands are looped through these rings and bound in place with thread (Fig. 39). The wire rings are then slipped on and off the hooks quickly. As light and heat cause rubber to deteriorate, you must remove the motors from the machine after use, pack away in a covered box, and keep in a cool place, in order to get the longest life possible out of the rubber.

The Motors are made up of twelve strands of ¹/₈-inch flat rubber, each one measuring 1 yard long, totaling 24 yards of rubber needed. The rubber isn't directly attached to the hooks on the bow and propeller shafts because the wire would quickly cut through the strands. Instead, small rings are shaped from wire, with pieces of small rubber tubing slid over the wire. The ends of the rubber strands loop through these rings and are secured in place with thread (Fig. 39). The wire rings can then be quickly taken on and off the hooks. Since light and heat can cause rubber to break down, you need to remove the motors from the machine after use, store them in a covered box, and keep them in a cool place to maximize the rubber's lifespan.

[Pg 30]

It has been found that rubber motors can be wound much farther by lubricating them with glycerine. It is only necessary to put a few drops of the glycerine upon a clean cloth, and rub it over the outside strands; then wind the motors, and it will work over the surface of the inner strands until all parts are covered.

It has been found that rubber motors can be wound much further by lubricating them with glycerin. You just need to put a few drops of glycerin on a clean cloth and rub it on the outside strands; then wind the motors, and it will spread over the surface of the inner strands until all parts are covered.

Fig. 45.—A Home-made Motor Winder.
Fig. 46.—The Kind of Egg-beater to Use.
Fig. 47.—How the Motors are Connected to Winder for Winding.

Fig. 45.—A DIY Motor Winder.
Fig. 46.—The Type of Egg Beater to Use.
Fig. 47.—How the Motors Connect to the Winder for Winding.

Of course the rubber motors must be twisted an equal number of turns, in order to make the propellers work the same, and this is usually done with an ingenious winder made from an egg-beater, which winds both motors simultaneously.

Of course, the rubber motors need to be twisted the same number of turns to make the propellers work the same way, and this is usually done with a clever winder made from an egg beater, which winds both motors at the same time.

[Pg 31]

The Home-made Motor-winder shown in Fig. 45 is made from a Dover egg-beater (Fig. 46). To convert the egg-beater into a winder, it is necessary to cut off the loop ends and the center pivot wires on which the loops turn. Then bend the cut-off ends of the loops into hooks, and punch them to fit over the pivot wire ends, as before (Fig. 45). The ends of the pivot wires must be riveted to keep the hooks in position.

The Homemade Motor Winder shown in Fig. 45 is made from a Dover egg beater (Fig. 46). To turn the egg beater into a winder, you need to cut off the loop ends and the center pivot wires that the loops rotate on. Then bend the cut ends of the loops into hooks and punch them to fit over the ends of the pivot wires, as before (Fig. 45). The ends of the pivot wires should be riveted to secure the hooks in place.

Figure 47 shows

__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ displays

How the Egg-beater Winds the Motors. While an assistant supports the model by the propeller end, you remove the motor rings from the hooks on the bow of the fuselage, and slip them on to the hooks of the egg-beater. Then you turn the crank of the winder, counting the turns as you do so, and when you have wound the motors as far as you wish, slip off the motor rings, and slip them back on to the bow hooks of the model aeroplane. Motors of models like that shown in this chapter are wound one-thousand turns or more for each flight.

How the Egg-beater Winds the Motors. While an assistant holds the model by the propeller end, you take the motor rings off the hooks at the front of the fuselage and put them onto the hooks of the egg-beater. Then you turn the crank of the winder, counting the turns as you go. When you’ve wound the motors as much as you want, you remove the motor rings and put them back onto the front hooks of the model airplane. Motors for models like the one shown in this chapter are wound one thousand turns or more for each flight.

Wind the Motors Slowly, especially after the first row of knots begin, as it puts the rubber to the least amount of strain by doing this. Quick winding not only strains the rubber but makes the knots form in bunches, and uneven winding, of course, produces an uneven unwinding.

Wind the Motors Slowly, especially once the first row of knots starts, as this minimizes the strain on the rubber. Rapid winding not only puts stress on the rubber but also causes the knots to clump together, and uneven winding, naturally, results in uneven unwinding.

The propellers must be held after the motors have been wound, to keep them in check. Figure 34 shows

The propellers need to be held after the motors are wound to keep them under control. Figure 34 shows

The Position to Take for Launching a Model from the hand. The machine should not be thrown forward, as [Pg 32] the movement would cause too great a disturbance of the air, resulting in the machine losing its stability, and probably upsetting. The best method is to give the model a slight push that will start it off at a speed a trifle under that produced by its propellers.

The Position to Take for Launching a Model from the hand. The machine shouldn't be thrown forward, as [Pg 32] this movement would disturb the air too much, causing the machine to lose its stability and likely fall over. The best approach is to give the model a gentle push to get it started at a speed just below what its propellers generate.

[Pg 33]

CHAPTER IV

A HOME-MADE TOY MOTOR-BOAT

The toy motor-boat shown in Figs. 48 and 49 is propelled by a tin propeller run by a rubber-band motor. A handful of rubber-bands will cost only a few cents, and the rest of the working material can be picked up at home.

The toy motorboat shown in Figs. 48 and 49 is powered by a tin propeller driven by a rubber band motor. A few rubber bands will only cost a few cents, and you can find the rest of the materials at home.

Fig. 49.—The Completed Motor-boat.

Fig. 49.—The Finished Motorboat.

Fig. 50.—Stern, with Motor in Place.

Fig. 50.—Back view, with Motor Installed.

Prepare the Bottom of the Hull out of a piece of wood 1 inch thick, making it of the shape and dimensions shown in Fig. 51. Be careful to curve the side edges the same. Use a saw for cutting out the piece, then smooth up the edges with a plane and sandpaper. The stern should be sawed off on a bevel as shown in Fig. 52.

Prepare the Bottom of the Hull from a piece of wood that is 1 inch thick, shaped and sized as shown in Fig. 51. Make sure to curve the side edges evenly. Use a saw to cut out the piece, then smooth the edges with a plane and sandpaper. The stern should be cut off at a bevel as shown in Fig. 52.

[Pg 34]

Fig. 51.—Diagram of Hull.

Fig. 51.—Hull Diagram.

The Sides of the hull (B, Figs. 52 and 53) are thin strips 2½ inches wide. Nail one to one edge of the bottom block, then saw off the bow end on a line with the bow of the bottom block, and the stern end on the same slant as the bevel cut on the stern of the bottom block. With one piece in position, nail on the second side and trim off its ends. If you have any difficulty in making a neat joint between the bow ends of sides B, take a piece of tin from a can, bend it around the bow, and tack it in place as shown in Fig. 48. The stern piece (C, Figs. 53 and 54) should be cut next, to fit the slanted ends of the sides.

The Sides of the hull (B, Figs. 52 and 53) are narrow strips that are 2½ inches wide. Attach one to one edge of the bottom block, then cut the bow end to align with the bow of the bottom block, and the stern end to match the angle of the bevel cut on the stern of the bottom block. Once one piece is in place, attach the second side and trim its ends. If you have trouble making a neat joint between the bow ends of sides B, take a piece of tin from a can, bend it around the bow, and tack it in place as shown in Fig. 48. The stern piece (C, Figs. 53 and 54) should be cut next to fit the angled ends of the sides.

Figs. 52 and 53.—How the Hull, Sides, Stern and Deck Pieces are Assembled.

Figs. 52 and 53.—How the hull, sides, stern, and deck pieces are put together.

The Deck (D) extends from the bow almost to the center of the boat. Its top surface should taper in its length and curve from side to side. The piece may be whittled or planed to this shape. Fasten it with brads to the top edges of the sides of the boat.

The Deck (D) stretches from the front of the boat almost to the middle. Its top surface should gradually narrow in length and curve from side to side. You can carve or plane it to achieve this shape. Secure it with brads to the top edges of the boat's sides.

Fig. 48.—Launching the Toy Motor-boat.

Fig. 48.—Launching the Toy Boat.

[Pg 35]

To Complete the Boat, go over the work carefully, trim off all projecting edges, drive nail heads beneath the surfaces, putty nail holes and cracks, and give the wood two coats of paint of whatever color you want to have the motor-boat.

To Complete the Boat, review the work thoroughly, trim any excess edges, drive nail heads below the surfaces, fill in nail holes and cracks with putty, and apply two coats of paint in the color of your choice for the motorboat.

The Propeller (E, Fig. 54) is cut from the side of a tin can. Cut a piece 3 inches long and ¾ inch wide, round its ends, and with the point of a nail pierce a hole through it each side of the center of the length of the piece (Fig. 55). To finish the propeller, it is only necessary to take hold of the two ends and twist the piece into the shape shown in Fig. 56.

The Propeller (E, Fig. 54) is made from the side of a tin can. Cut a piece that is 3 inches long and ¾ inch wide, round the ends, and use the point of a nail to poke a hole through each side of the center of the piece (Fig. 55). To complete the propeller, just hold the two ends and twist the piece into the shape shown in Fig. 56.

The Propeller-shaft requires a short piece of wire with one end bent into a hook (F, Fig. 56). Stick the straight end of this shaft through one hole in the propeller, and the hooked end through the other hole, then twist the hooked end over on to the main part of the shaft, as shown in Fig. 57. Make a tight twist so the propeller will be held perfectly rigid on the shaft.

The Propeller-shaft needs a short piece of wire with one end shaped into a hook (F, Fig. 56). Insert the straight end of this shaft through one hole in the propeller and the hooked end through the other hole, then twist the hooked end back onto the main part of the shaft, as illustrated in Fig. 57. Make sure to twist it tightly so the propeller stays securely attached to the shaft.

The Bearing Plate G (Figs. 54 and 58) supports the propeller. Cut it out of a piece of tin 1½ inches wide by 3 inches long, bend it in half crosswise to give it stiffness, and then bend it lengthwise to the angle shown so it will fit over the slanted stern of the boat. Punch two holes through the upper end for nailing the plate to the stern, and a hole at the lower end for the propeller-shaft to run through.

The Bearing Plate G (Figs. 54 and 58) supports the propeller. Cut it out of a piece of tin 1½ inches wide by 3 inches long, fold it in half crosswise for added strength, and then bend it lengthwise to the angle shown so it will fit over the slanted back of the boat. Punch two holes through the top for nailing the plate to the stern, and a hole at the bottom for the propeller shaft to pass through.

For a Thrust Bearing, slip a couple of beads over the propeller-shaft, between the propeller and bearing plate [Pg 36] G. Probably you can find glass beads in your mother's button bag.

For a Thrust Bearing, slide a couple of beads onto the propeller shaft, between the propeller and the bearing plate [Pg 36] G. You might be able to find glass beads in your mom’s button stash.

Fig. 54.—Longitudinal Section of Assembled Motor-boat.
Figs. 55-59.—Details of Propeller.
Fig. 60.—Rubber-band Motor.

Fig. 54.—Longitudinal Section of Assembled Motorboat.
Figs. 55-59.—Details of Propeller.
Fig. 60.—Rubber Band Motor.

[Pg 37]

After slipping the beads on to the shaft, and sticking the shaft through the hole in bearing plate G, bend the end of the shaft into a hook; then screw a small screw-hook into the bottom of the hull, at the bow end (I, Fig. 54), and you will be ready for

After sliding the beads onto the shaft and pushing the shaft through the hole in the bearing plate G, bend the end of the shaft into a hook. Next, screw a small screw-hook into the bottom of the hull at the bow end (I, Fig. 54), and you'll be all set for

The Rubber-band Motor. Rubber-bands about 1½ inches in length are best for the purpose. Loop these together end to end (Fig. 60) to form a strand that will reach from hook I to the hook on the propeller-shaft; then form three more strands of this same length, and slip the end loops of all four strands over the hooks.

The Rubber-band Motor. Rubber bands about 1½ inches long work best for this. Connect them end to end (Fig. 60) to create a strand that stretches from hook I to the hook on the propeller shaft; then, make three more strands of the same length, and slide the end loops of all four strands over the hooks.

To Wind the Motor, give the propeller about one hundred turns with your finger; then, keep hold of the propeller until you launch the boat.

To Wind the Motor, give the propeller around one hundred turns with your finger; then, hold onto the propeller until you launch the boat.

There are many ways of elaborating upon the design and construction of this toy motor-boat, but, having given the necessary instructions for building a simple model, I am going to leave further development for you to work out. Here is an opportunity for you to use your ingenuity. Devise an adjustable rudder, add a keel, finish off the cockpit with a coaming, install a headlight made from a pocket flashlight—in fact, see just how complete a motor-boat model you can build.

There are many ways to expand on the design and construction of this toy motorboat, but since I’ve provided the necessary instructions for building a simple model, I’ll leave the further development up to you. Here’s your chance to get creative. Come up with an adjustable rudder, add a keel, finish off the cockpit with a coaming, install a headlight using a pocket flashlight—in fact, see how complete a motorboat model you can build.

[Pg 38]

CHAPTER V

HOME-MADE TOY WATER-MOTORS

You can own a water-motor like the one shown in Fig. 61, because its construction requires nothing but easily obtained materials.

You can own a water-motor like the one shown in Fig. 61, because its construction needs only materials that are easy to find.

Fig. 61.—A Varnish-can Water-motor in Operation.

Fig. 61.—A Varnish-can Water-motor in Action.

[Pg 39]

The Case of this water-motor is made of an empty varnish can—preferably one of gallon capacity. Nothing better could be desired. The tin can makes a lightweight compact case; the spout in the top is in just the right place and of the right size to receive the water power from a faucet; and as the water connections can be made tight there is no possibility of water splashing on to the floor—a big argument in your favor when seeking permission to use the motor in the bath-tub, wash-basin, or kitchen sink.

The Case for this water motor is made from an empty varnish can—ideally one with a gallon capacity. You couldn't ask for anything better. The tin can serves as a lightweight and compact case; the spout on top is perfectly positioned and sized to connect to a faucet for water power; and since the water connections can be secured tightly, there's no risk of water splashing onto the floor—this is a strong point in your favor when trying to get permission to use the motor in the bathtub, sink, or kitchen basin.

Fig. 62.—The Completed Varnish-can Water-motor.

Fig. 62.—The Finished Varnish Can Water Motor.

You can get an empty varnish can from any painter, or at a paint store. The first step in converting the can into the motor case consists in removing the bottom. You will find this soldered in place, in all probability, and it can be removed quickly by holding the can over the flame of a gas burner until the solder melts, when a few taps upon the edges will cause the piece of tin to drop off.

You can get an empty varnish can from any painter or at a paint store. The first step in turning the can into the motor case is to remove the bottom. It’s likely that this is soldered in place, and you can take it off quickly by holding the can over the flame of a gas burner until the solder melts; then a few taps on the edges will make the piece of tin drop off.

The Water-motor Wheel is shown in the cross-sections of the water-motor (Figs. 63 and 64), and Figs. 65 to 67 show its details. The diameter of the wheel should be about ½ inch less than the inside width of the can. In [Pg 40] the model from which the drawings were made, this measurement is 5½ inches. Cut the two side pieces of the wheel out of a piece of cigar-box wood, and bore a ¼-inch hole through the center of each for the wheel axle. Fasten a spool to the center of one side piece for a pulley-wheel (Fig. 66).

The Water-motor Wheel is illustrated in the cross-sections of the water-motor (Figs. 63 and 64), and Figs. 65 to 67 display its details. The wheel's diameter should be about ½ inch less than the inside width of the can. In [Pg 40] the model used for the drawings, this measurement is 5½ inches. Cut the two side pieces of the wheel from a piece of cigar-box wood, and drill a ¼-inch hole through the center of each for the wheel axle. Attach a spool to the center of one side piece to serve as a pulley-wheel (Fig. 66).

Figs. 63 and 64.—Sections through Water-motor Case.

Figs. 63 & 64.—Cross-sections of the Water Motor Case.

Prepare Eight Paddles 1¾ inches wide and 2½ inches long, out of cigar-box wood. Locate the positions for the ends of the paddles, upon the side pieces, by drawing a horizontal line, a vertical line, and two diagonal lines at angles [Pg 41] of 45 degrees, through their centers. This will simplify the matter of spacing the paddles equidistant from one another (Fig. 67). Use brads for fastening the side pieces to the paddle ends. Those removed from the cigar boxes will do.

Prepare Eight Paddles 1¾ inches wide and 2½ inches long, made from cigar box wood. Find the spots for the ends of the paddles on the side pieces by drawing a horizontal line, a vertical line, and two diagonal lines at 45-degree angles through their centers. This will make it easier to space the paddles evenly apart (Fig. 67). Use brads to attach the side pieces to the paddle ends. The ones taken from the cigar boxes will work fine. [Pg 41]

The Wheel Shaft should be a trifle shorter than the inside width of the can, and enough smaller than the ¼-inch hole in the wheel side pieces so the wheel will turn freely. Locate the centers for the axle upon the two sides of the can, in the proper position so there will be the same margin above and at the ends of the wheel. Drive a nail through each side of the can into the axle end.

The Wheel Shaft should be a little shorter than the inside width of the can and small enough compared to the ¼-inch hole in the wheel side pieces so that the wheel can spin freely. Mark the centers for the axle on both sides of the can in the right position to ensure there’s an equal margin above and at the ends of the wheel. Hammer a nail through each side of the can into the axle end.

Fig. 65.—The Completed Water-motor Wheel.
Figs. 66 and 67.—Details of Water-motor Wheel.

Fig. 65.—The Finished Water-motor Wheel.
Figs. 66 and 67.—Details of Water-motor Wheel.

An Outlet for the water after it has passed over the wheel paddles must be provided, and the best way is to fasten a strip to two opposite sides of the can so as to raise the bottom about an inch, as shown in Figs. 62, 63, and 64.

An Outlet for the water after it has gone over the wheel paddles needs to be created, and the best method is to attach a strip to two opposite sides of the can to raise the bottom about an inch, as shown in Figs. 62, 63, and 64.

For a Pulley-belt use a piece of heavy cord. Cut a slot through the front of the can for the belt to run through, [Pg 42] and make this slot large enough so the cord will not rub against the sides (Fig. 63).

For a Pulley-belt use a piece of heavy cord. Cut a slot through the front of the can for the belt to run through, [Pg 42] and make this slot large enough so the cord won't rub against the sides (Fig. 63).

Pulley-wheels for attaining different speeds can be made of spools of various sizes. A bicycle wheel with the tire removed, mounted in a frame, is excellent for a large wheel.

Pulley-wheels for achieving different speeds can be created using spools of various sizes. A bicycle wheel with the tire taken off, mounted in a frame, works great for a large wheel.

Figs. 68-69.—How to Make a Water-tight Connection between Faucet and Water-motor.

Figs. 68-69.—How to Create a Water-tight Connection between Faucet and Water-motor.

Connecting up the Water-motor. If you operate the water-motor in the kitchen sink, you can either build a platform as shown in Fig. 61, to bring the spout of the varnish-can case up to the level of the faucet, or you can set the water-motor in the sink and lead a piece of rubber tubing from the spout to the faucet, as shown in Fig. 68. If you use the latter arrangement, slip the lower end of the rubber tubing over a short piece of glass, brass, or tin tubing, and stick the short tubing through a hole in a cork large enough to fit the spout of the varnish-can case (Fig. 69). If you raise the water-motor high enough so the faucet will set down into the spout, you can cut a large enough hole for the faucet, through a cork, and then fit the cork in the spout as shown in Fig. 64.

Connecting up the Water-motor. If you use the water-motor in the kitchen sink, you can either build a platform like the one shown in Fig. 61 to raise the spout of the varnish-can case to the height of the faucet, or you can place the water-motor in the sink and connect a piece of rubber tubing from the spout to the faucet, as illustrated in Fig. 68. If you choose the second option, slide the lower end of the rubber tubing over a short piece of glass, brass, or tin tubing, and insert the short tubing through a hole in a cork that’s big enough to fit the spout of the varnish-can case (Fig. 69). If you lift the water-motor high enough for the faucet to rest inside the spout, you can cut a sufficiently large hole in a cork for the faucet, and then insert the cork into the spout as shown in Fig. 64.

Another Water-motor. The little water-motor in Fig. 70 will furnish sufficient power to operate simple mechanical toys.

Another Water Motor. The small water motor in Fig. 70 will provide enough power to run basic mechanical toys.

[Pg 43]

The Water-motor Wheel. Procure two baking-powder can covers for the ends of the water-motor wheel (A, Fig. 72), a cigar-box out of which to make the wheel paddles, and a stick ¼ inch square and 5 inches long for the wheel axle (B, Fig. 72).

The Water-motor Wheel. Get two baking powder can lids for the ends of the water-motor wheel (A, Fig. 72), a cigar box to make the wheel paddles, and a stick that is ¼ inch square and 5 inches long for the wheel axle (B, Fig. 72).

Fig. 70.—A Small Water-motor that can be Operated in a Wash-Basin.

Fig. 70.—A Compact Water Motor that Can Be Used in a Sink.

Fig. 71.—The Water-motor Wheel.

Fig. 71.—The Water Wheel.

Figs. 72 and 73.—Details of Water-motor Wheel.

Figs. 72 & 73.—Details of Water-motor Wheel.

Cut eight paddles from the cigar-box wood 1 inch wide and 5 inches long. Take a pair of these strips and fasten them to one can cover, in line with each other, and close against the sides of the cover (C, Fig. 73). Fasten [Pg 44] with tacks or brads driven through the cover into the ends of the strips. Take another pair of strips and fasten them to the same cover, in a similar manner, at right angles to pair C (D, Fig. 72). Then tack the pairs of strips E and F to the cover halfway between pairs C and D. With the paddles in position, locate the exact center of the end of the can cover, and drive a nail through at this point into the end of axle B. Slip the free ends of the paddles into the other can cover, and carefully drive tacks or brads through the cover into them. Drive a nail through the center of the cover into the end of axle B.

Cut eight paddles from the cigar-box wood, each 1 inch wide and 5 inches long. Take a pair of these strips and attach them to one can cover, lining them up with each other and pressing them against the sides of the cover (C, Fig. 73). Secure them with tacks or brads driven through the cover into the ends of the strips. Take another pair of strips and attach them to the same cover in a similar way, at right angles to pair C (D, Fig. 72). Then tack the pairs of strips E and F to the cover halfway between pairs C and D. With the paddles in place, find the exact center of the end of the can cover and drive a nail through this point into the end of axle B. Slide the free ends of the paddles into the other can cover, and carefully drive tacks or brads through the cover into them. Finally, drive a nail through the center of the cover into the end of axle B.

The Wheel Supports. Figure 74 shows the supports for the wheel. Cut the end pieces G 4 inches wide and 6 inches high, and the cross strips H 1¾ inches wide and 5½ inches long. Nail pieces G to H, as shown, allowing the lower ends of G to extend ½ inch below [Pg 45] strips H, and leaving a space of ½ inch between strips H. The axle holes in pieces G (Fig. 74) should be located in the center of the width of these pieces, and halfway between their tops and strips H. Bore the holes with a gimlet, or make them by driving a large nail through the pieces, and then withdrawing it.

The Wheel Supports. Figure 74 shows the supports for the wheel. Cut the end pieces G to be 4 inches wide and 6 inches tall, and the cross strips H to be 1¾ inches wide and 5½ inches long. Nail pieces G to H as shown, allowing the lower ends of G to extend ½ inch below the strips H, and leaving a ½ inch space between the strips H. The axle holes in pieces G (Fig. 74) should be centered in the width of these pieces and halfway between their tops and strips H. Bore the holes with a gimlet or create them by driving a large nail through the pieces and then pulling it out.

Fig. 74.—Support for Water-motor Wheel.

Fig. 74.—Support for Water Wheel.

To Mount the Wheel upon the supports, withdraw the nails driven into the ends of axle B, slip the wheel between uprights G, and drive the nails through the holes in G back into the holes in the axle ends (Fig. 71).

To Mount the Wheel on the supports, remove the nails that are driven into the ends of axle B, slide the wheel between uprights G, and drive the nails through the holes in G back into the holes in the axle ends (Fig. 71).

The Pulley Wheel. One can cover should be converted into a pulley by winding several turns of string around it, near each edge, leaving a groove between the string. Coat the string with glue to make it stick fast to the cover.

The Pulley Wheel. You can turn a cover into a pulley by wrapping several loops of string around it, close to each edge, while leaving a groove between the strings. Apply glue to the string to make it adhere securely to the cover.

The Water-motor Case. Figure 70 shows how the water-motor case is constructed by fastening boards N, I, J, K, L, and M to the wheel supports G. There must be a slot through I and another through J, for the string [Pg 46] belt to pass through, and a hole through K for the intake of water from a faucet. These can be cut out of the edges of the boards, as shown, before they are nailed in place. Leave an opening between boards N and M, and the bottom of ends G, for an outlet for waste water.

The Water-motor Case. Figure 70 shows how to build the water-motor case by attaching boards N, I, J, K, L, and M to the wheel supports G. There needs to be a slot through I and another through J for the string belt to go through, and a hole in K for the water intake from a faucet. These can be cut out of the edges of the boards, as illustrated, before they are nailed into place. Leave an opening between boards N and M, and the bottom of the ends G, for the waste water to exit.

[Pg 47]

CHAPTER VI

A HOME-MADE TOY RAILWAY

Fig. 75.—Upright.

It is often thought that a toy railway is beyond a boy's ingenuity to construct, whereas, in reality, it is one of the simplest toys he can make. This applies to the tracks, stations, and cars of every description, all of which can be made with a few strips of wood, some spools, nails, cardboard, and a bottle of glue, for materials. If you have passed the age of caring for such toys as this, you will, no doubt, enjoy the making of one for your younger brother, or for one of your boy relatives.

It’s often believed that a toy train set is too complicated for a boy to build, but in fact, it’s one of the easiest toys he can create. This includes the tracks, stations, and all sorts of cars, which can be made using just a few wood strips, some spools, nails, cardboard, and a bottle of glue. If you’re no longer at an age where you care for such toys, you’ll probably enjoy making one for your younger brother or another boy in your family.

Figure 76 shows a railway set up and in running order. As shown in the illustration,

Figure 76 displays a railway that is set up and operational. As depicted in the illustration,

[Pg 48]

Fig. 76.—The Toy Railway in Operation.

Fig. 76.—The Toy Train Set in Use.

Fig. 77.—Support for Trolley-line.

Fig. 77.—Trolley Line Support.

The Trolley-line, or overhead cable, runs around the wheels of two supports, one at either end of the track. Prepare four pieces of wood the shape and size of that shown in Fig. 75 for the uprights of these supports, and make two wheels three inches in diameter. The wheels may be marked out with a home-made compass—a pencil tied to the end of a piece of string, if you haven't a compass. When the wheels have been cut out, place them in your bench-vise, one at a time, and with a file make a groove around the edge as shown at C, Fig. 77. Bore a three-eighths-inch hole through each upright at F, Fig. 75, and another through the center of each wheel. Now fasten two of the uprights six inches apart upon a block of wood, as shown at A and B, Fig. 77. Whittle a shaft to fit loosely in the holes of the uprights, and, after slipping it into them, fasten one of the wheels upon one end and a small spool upon the other (see C and D in Fig. 77). A weight of some sort should be fastened to the base, as shown at E. The uprights for the other support should be similarly mounted upon [Pg 49] another block of wood. Fasten the remaining wheel to an axle run through the holes in the uprights, and, as it is unnecessary to have a spool upon the other end of the axle, cut it off short and drive a nail through it to prevent it from slipping through the holes. Having thus prepared the supports, place them as far apart as you wish to extend the railway, and run a cord around the two wheels and tie it. Then set the supports a little farther apart, if necessary, to tighten the cord. Run another cord from spool D to

The Trolley-line, or overhead cable, goes around the wheels of two supports, one at each end of the track. Get four pieces of wood shaped like the one shown in Fig. 75 for these supports, and make two wheels that are three inches in diameter. You can create the wheels using a homemade compass—a pencil tied to the end of a piece of string, if you don’t have a compass. Once you’ve cut out the wheels, put each one in your bench vise and use a file to make a groove around the edge as shown at C, Fig. 77. Drill a three-eighths-inch hole through each support at F, Fig. 75, and another hole in the center of each wheel. Next, attach two of the supports six inches apart on a block of wood, as illustrated at A and B, Fig. 77. Carve a shaft that fits loosely in the holes of the supports, and after placing it in the holes, attach one of the wheels on one end and a small spool on the other (see C and D in Fig. 77). A weight should be attached to the base, as shown at E. The uprights for the other support should be mounted in the same way on another block of wood. Secure the remaining wheel to an axle that goes through the holes in the supports, and since you don’t need a spool on the other end of the axle, cut it off short and drive a nail through it to stop it from slipping through the holes. After preparing the supports, place them as far apart as you want for the railway and run a cord around the two wheels and tie it. Then adjust the supports a bit farther apart if needed to tighten the cord. Run another cord from spool D to

Fig. 76.—The Toy Railway in Operation (2).

Fig. 76.—The Toy Train Set in Action (2).

A Water-motor, steam engine, or whatever power you can get with which to operate the railway. A bicycle inverted with the tire removed from its rear wheel has been used satisfactorily, as has also a sewing-machine with the belt slipped off and the cord from the spool put in its place.

A Water-motor, steam engine, or any power source you can find to run the railway. An upside-down bicycle with the rear tire taken off has worked well, just like a sewing machine with the belt removed and the thread from the spool used instead.

A good substitute for the tin tracks ordinarily sold in shops for toy railways will be found in those shown in Fig. 78. These

A good substitute for the tin tracks usually sold in stores for toy railways can be found in those shown in Fig. 78. These

[Pg 50]

Fig. 78.—The Tracks.

Fig. 78.—The Paths.

Tracks consist of quarter-inch strips mounted upon pieces of cardboard. Make a small gimlet-hole in one end of each stick, and drive a short finishing nail in the opposite end (see Fig. 78). Cut the cardboard strips the length of the sticks, and tack them to the sticks as shown in the illustration. If inch and one-half spools are used for the car wheels, the inside gauge of the tracks should be an inch and three-quarters. By lapping the cardboard strips over the ends of the sticks, and the sticks over the ends of the cardboard strips, and placing the nail dowels in the ends of the sticks as in the drawing, a strong track is formed when the pieces are fitted together. This may be extended to any desired length by adding more sections to it.

Tracks are made up of quarter-inch strips attached to pieces of cardboard. Create a small hole at one end of each stick using a gimlet, and drive a short finishing nail into the opposite end (see Fig. 78). Cut the cardboard strips to match the length of the sticks, and attach them to the sticks as illustrated. If you use inch-and-a-half spools for the car wheels, the inside width of the tracks should be an inch and three-quarters. By overlapping the cardboard strips over the ends of the sticks, and the sticks over the ends of the cardboard strips, and placing the nail dowels in the ends of the sticks as shown in the drawing, you create a sturdy track when the pieces are put together. This can be extended to any length desired by adding more sections.

Fig. 79.—A Top View of Car Truck.

The Cars for this railway will have their trucks constructed alike, and it is a simple matter to transform a car from one style into another. Figure 79 shows a top view of a truck. For the bed of this cut a three-eighths-inch board twelve inches long by two and one-quarter inches wide, and, after rounding the ends as shown in the drawing, cut a mortise at A and B two and three-eighths inches from either end.

The Cars for this railway will have their trucks built the same way, making it easy to change a car from one style to another. Figure 79 shows a top view of a truck. For the base, take a three-eighths-inch board that's twelve inches long and two and a quarter inches wide, and after rounding the ends as shown in the drawing, cut a mortise at A and B two and three-eighths inches from each end.

[Pg 51]

Fig. 80.—Spool Wheels.

Procure two one and one-half inch spools for wheels, and drive a wooden peg through the hole in each, cutting off the ends so they project a little beyond the hole, as shown in Fig. 80. Then bore four holes in the edges of the truck-bed with a gimlet at C, D, E, and F (see Fig. 79), and, after setting the spools in mortises A and B, pivot them in place with small finishing nails driven into the wooden pegs. These nails should fit loosely in the gimlet holes. In order to drive them into the exact centers of the spools, it is best to locate these points upon the ends of the pegs before placing the spools in the frame. A quarter-inch hole should be bored in the top of the truck-bed at G and H (Fig. 79) in which to fasten the two uprights I and J (see Fig. 81). Make the uprights four inches long and [Pg 52] whittle a peg upon the lower ends to fit holes G and H (see Fig. 82). Bore a hole with a gimlet in the top of each and run a piece of heavy wire from one to the other, bending it as shown in Fig. 81. Fasten K between I and J, as shown. Place a small brass ring upon the wire before you fasten it in place. A small hook should be screwed into one end of the truck and a screw-eye into the other end, for couplings, should you wish to hitch two or more cars together.

Get two 1.5-inch spools for the wheels, and drive a wooden peg through the hole in each, trimming the ends so they stick out a little beyond the hole, as shown in Fig. 80. Then, drill four holes into the edges of the truck bed with a gimlet at C, D, E, and F (see Fig. 79), and after setting the spools into mortises A and B, pivot them in place with small finishing nails driven into the wooden pegs. These nails should fit loosely in the gimlet holes. To ensure they go into the exact centers of the spools, it’s best to mark these points on the ends of the pegs before placing the spools in the frame. A quarter-inch hole should be drilled in the top of the truck bed at G and H (see Fig. 79) to attach the two uprights I and J (see Fig. 81). Make the uprights four inches long and shape a peg at the lower ends to fit into holes G and H (see Fig. 82). Drill a hole with a gimlet in the top of each and run a piece of heavy wire from one to the other, bending it as shown in Fig. 81. Secure K between I and J, as shown. Place a small brass ring on the wire before securing it in place. A small hook should be screwed into one end of the truck and a screw-eye into the other end for couplings, if you want to connect two or more cars together.

Fig. 81.—The Completed Car Truck.

Fig. 81.—The Finished Car Truck.

Fig. 83.—A Gondola Car.

A Gondola Car, such as shown in Fig. 83, should have its truck made similar to Fig. 79, with the exception that it should be two inches shorter, in order that cigar-box strips can be used for the side pieces. Cut the strips an inch and one-half high and fasten them to the bed of the car with brads. This car may be used as a trailer.

A Gondola Car, like the one shown in Fig. 83, should have its truck made similar to Fig. 79, except it should be two inches shorter so that cigar-box strips can be used for the side pieces. Cut the strips to an inch and a half high and attach them to the bed of the car with brads. This car can be used as a trailer.

The car shown in Fig. 81 is a rather crude affair, but with a little more work may be transformed into a better looking car—

The car displayed in Fig. 81 is somewhat rough around the edges, but with a bit more effort, it can be turned into a more attractive vehicle—

[Pg 53]

Fig. 84.mdash;Side View.

Fig. 84 — Side View.

Fig. 85.—End View.

A Street Car such as is shown in Figs. 84 and 85 being an example of what can be made. The sides, ends, and roof of this car are made of cardboard, the patterns for the cutting of which are shown on page 55. Figure 86 shows a cross-section taken through the center of the car. The two side pieces A should be prepared first, as shown in Fig. 87. With a ruler and lead-pencil draw in the windows about as shown in the drawing, using double lines to indicate the sash. Then, with a sharp knife, cut out the center of each just inside of the inner line. These windows may be left open or may be covered on the inside with tissue-paper. If tissue-paper is used, oil it to make it more transparent. When the two sides have been prepared, bend each along the dotted lines (see Fig. 87) and tack one to each side of your car truck as shown in Fig. 86. When properly bent, the distance between the upper part of the sides should be two and three-quarters inches. Cut the two inner ends of the car the shape of Fig. 88, using a compass with a radius of two and one-half inches with which to describe the curve at the top. Draw in the panels and sash lines as you did those upon the side pieces, being careful to get them on the same level, [Pg 54] and cut out the door and window openings. Fasten these end pieces between the sides with glue, and also tack them to the uprights of the car (I and J, Fig. 81), which will come just inside of them. The roof is made in two sections (B and C, Fig. 86). For B cut a piece of cardboard twelve and one-quarter by three and three-quarter inches (Fig. 89), draw the curved end with a compass, using the radius shown on the drawing, and slit the corners as indicated by the dotted lines. When this piece has thus been prepared, remove the wire from the top of the truck (see Fig. 81). Bend the cardboard over the sides and ends of the car, and lap corners D and E over F and G, and H and I over J and K, tacking them with thread to hold them in place. To fasten this part of the roof to the top of the car, cut a number of small strips of linen, and glue them to the under side of the roof and to the inside face of the sides and ends of the car (see Fig. 86). The upper portion of the roof C should be made out of a piece of cardboard bent into the shape of Fig. 90, and cut at the ends so the upper portion of C projects a little beyond its sides. Draw the ventilation lights upon the sides of C as shown on the drawings, and then fasten the piece upon the top of B with strips of linen in the same manner as you fastened B in place. C should now have the same curve to its top as B. Cut and glue a piece of cardboard in each end of C to complete the roof. The shape of this piece is shown in Fig. 91. The outer ends of the car should be made as shown in Fig. 92, and tacked around the ends of the wooden truck platform, and also fastened to the under side of the roof with strips of linen.

A Street Car like the ones shown in Figs. 84 and 85 is an example of what can be created. The sides, ends, and roof of this car are made from cardboard, with the cutting patterns displayed on page 55. Figure 86 shows a cross-section taken through the middle of the car. Prepare the two side pieces A first, as shown in Fig. 87. Using a ruler and pencil, draw the windows as illustrated in the drawing, using double lines to indicate the frames. Then, with a sharp knife, cut out the center of each window just inside the inner line. These windows can be left open or covered on the inside with tissue paper. If you use tissue paper, oil it to make it more transparent. After preparing the two sides, bend each along the dotted lines (see Fig. 87) and attach one to each side of your car truck as shown in Fig. 86. When properly bent, the distance between the top parts of the sides should be two and three-quarters inches. Cut the two inner ends of the car to the shape of Fig. 88, using a compass with a radius of two and a half inches to draw the curve at the top. Draw in the panels and frame lines as you did on the side pieces, ensuring they're level, [Pg 54] and cut out the door and window openings. Attach these end pieces between the sides with glue, and also tack them to the uprights of the car (I and J, Fig. 81), which will fit just inside them. The roof is made in two sections (B and C, Fig. 86). For B, cut a piece of cardboard measuring twelve and one-quarter by three and three-quarter inches (Fig. 89), draw the curved end with a compass using the radius shown in the drawing, and cut the corners as shown by the dotted lines. Once this piece is prepared, remove the wire from the top of the truck (see Fig. 81). Bend the cardboard over the sides and ends of the car, and overlap corners D and E over F and G, and H and I over J and K, tacking them in place with thread. To secure this part of the roof to the top of the car, cut several small strips of linen and glue them to the underside of the roof and to the inside faces of the sides and ends of the car (see Fig. 86). The upper part of the roof C should be made from a piece of cardboard bent into the shape of Fig. 90, and cut at the ends so the upper part of C extends slightly beyond its sides. Draw the ventilation lights on the sides of C as shown in the drawings, and then attach this piece on top of B with linen strips in the same way you secured B. C should now have the same curve at its top as B. Cut and glue a piece of cardboard in each end of C to finish the roof. The shape of this piece is shown in Fig. 91. The outer ends of the car should be made as shown in Fig. 92, and tacked around the ends of the wooden truck platform, also fastening them to the underside of the roof with strips of linen.

[Pg 55]

Figs. 86-94.—Details of Toy Street Car.

[Pg 56]

The window openings may be cut in each end, but it will make a stronger car if they are simply drawn upon it. Cut four cardboard steps similar to Fig. 93 and tack them to the sides of the front and rear platforms. When the car has been put together, replace the wire in the tops of uprights I and J (Fig. 81), running the ends through the roof (see Fig. 84). Paint the sides and ends of the car yellow with brown trimmings, and paint the roof a light gray. Water colors can be used for the purpose. Letter the name of your car-line upon the sides and the number of the car upon each end and side. The route should be lettered upon strips of cardboard with pins run through them as shown in Fig. 94, these strips to stick in the roof of the car (see Figs. 84 and 85).

The window openings can be cut at each end, but the car will be stronger if they are just drawn on it. Cut four cardboard steps like Fig. 93 and attach them to the sides of the front and rear platforms. Once the car is assembled, replace the wire in the tops of uprights I and J (Fig. 81), running the ends through the roof (see Fig. 84). Paint the sides and ends of the car yellow with brown trim, and paint the roof light gray. You can use watercolors for this. Write the name of your car line on the sides and the number of the car on each end and side. The route should be written on strips of cardboard with pins run through them as shown in Fig. 94, these strips to be inserted into the roof of the car (see Figs. 84 and 85).

Having seen how the car is made, you will find it a simple matter to make designs for

Having seen how the car is made, you'll find it easy to create designs for

Other Cars, using the same scheme for the trucks, and altering the patterns for the sides, ends, and roof, to suit the design.

Other Cars, applying the same design for the trucks and changing the patterns for the sides, ends, and roof to fit the style.

Nothing has, as yet, been said about the

Nothing has, so far, been said about the

Operation of the Railway, and though Fig. 76 probably shows sufficiently clear how it is run, a few words may be helpful. The car or cars are placed between the wooden tracks, and the trolley (or cord attached to the ring on top of the car) is tied to the trolley-line as in the illustration. [Pg 57] Upon starting your engine, water-motor, or whatever motive-power you have, the car will run from one end of the track to the other. When it has reached the support of the trolley-line, it will stop long enough for the cord trolley to pass around the wooden wheel, and then run in the opposite direction until the other support is reached. It will thus be seen that the trolley hangs to the upper part of the cable, or trolley-line, in running one way, and to the lower part on the return run. In changing the direction of the run, the ring to which the trolley is attached slides to the other end of the car.

Operation of the Railway, and although Fig. 76 probably shows quite clearly how it operates, a few words may be helpful. The car or cars are positioned between the wooden tracks, and the trolley (or cord attached to the ring on top of the car) is connected to the trolley line as shown in the illustration. [Pg 57] When you start your engine, water motor, or whatever power source you have, the car will move from one end of the track to the other. Once it reaches the support of the trolley line, it will pause briefly for the cord trolley to go around the wooden wheel, and then continue in the opposite direction until it reaches the other support. It will be evident that the trolley hangs from the upper part of the cable, or trolley line, when moving one way, and from the lower part on the return trip. When changing the direction of travel, the ring to which the trolley is attached slides to the other end of the car.

Fig. 95.—The Railway Depot.

Fig. 95.—The Train Station.

A Station such as is illustrated in Fig. 95 is made out of cardboard and mounted upon a seven-eighths-inch board large enough to form a railway platform. After cutting out the side and end pieces, with door and window openings placed as shown in the illustration, fasten them together with strips of linen glued in the corners. Make the roof low and extend it over the platform upon each side and over the gable-ends, as shown in the illustration. Paint the sides of the depot the regulation depot red, and the roof a shingle or slate color. Paint [Pg 58] the door and window-sash black, letter the name of the station upon the gable-ends, and with a ruler and lead-pencil rule off the boards upon the sides, and the slate or shingles upon the roof. As this is a typical railway station, two may be made of the same pattern, one for either end of your car line.

A Station like the one shown in Fig. 95 is made from cardboard and attached to a seven-eighths-inch board that's large enough to create a railway platform. After cutting out the side and end pieces, with door and window openings placed as shown in the illustration, connect them with strips of linen glued at the corners. Keep the roof low and extend it over the platform on each side and over the gable ends, as illustrated. Paint the sides of the depot the standard depot red, and the roof a shingle or slate color. Paint the door and window frames black, label the station's name on the gable ends, and use a ruler and pencil to mark off the boards on the sides and the slates or shingles on the roof. Since this is a typical railway station, you can make two of the same design, one for each end of your car line.

[Pg 59]

CHAPTER VII

HOME-MADE TOY ELEVATORS

The elevator shown in Fig. 96 is a unique mechanical toy well worth one's making. Release the little car at the top floor, and it will descend to the ground floor, and then return to the starting point, without you having to touch it a second time. A magical elevator? Perhaps so. A little mechanical device performs the trick.

The elevator shown in Fig. 96 is a unique mechanical toy that's definitely worth making. Release the little car at the top floor, and it will go down to the ground floor and then come back to the starting point, all without you having to touch it again. A magical elevator? Maybe. A small mechanical device does the trick.

The same plan may be followed for installing the doll-house elevator in Chapter XIII, but the more stories there are the more fun there is in operating the elevator. This is why I have adapted the scheme to

The same approach can be used for installing the dollhouse elevator in Chapter XIII, but the more floors it has, the more enjoyable it is to operate the elevator. That's why I've modified the plan to

A Toy Office Building. Six stories are shown in Fig. 96, but you can make a modern sky-scraper with as many stories as you like. A packing-case 3 feet 6 inches long, stood on end, was used for the model. Another box or two can be added to the top for additional stories. Besides the box, or boxes, get enough box boards for floors and partitions.

A Toy Office Building. Six stories are shown in Fig. 96, but you can create a modern skyscraper with as many stories as you want. A packing case that's 3 feet 6 inches long, standing upright, was used for the model. You can stack another box or two on top for extra stories. Besides the box or boxes, make sure to get enough cardboard for floors and partitions.

Make the Floors in two pieces (A and B, Fig. 98), so the opening for the elevator shaft can be cut out of the end of one piece in the manner shown. This opening should be about 5 inches square. Mark out and cut the boards for all [Pg 60] of the floors at one time, and be careful to get the shaft opening the same in each floor. Cut the notch C in board A about 1 inch square.

Make the Floors in two pieces (A and B, Fig. 98), so the opening for the elevator shaft can be cut out of the end of one piece as shown. This opening should be about 5 inches square. Mark and cut the boards for all [Pg 60] of the floors at the same time, ensuring that the shaft opening is identical in each floor. Cut the notch C in board A to be about 1 inch square.

Fig. 96.—A Toy Office Building with Elevator.

Fig. 96.—A Toy Office Building with an Elevator.

Fasten the floor boards in place with nails driven through the sides of the box.

Secure the floorboards with nails driven through the sides of the box.

The Partitions, a pattern for which is shown in Fig. 99, can be made quicker by omitting the doorway, but this is easy to cut by sawing along the sides and then splitting out the piece between the saw cuts.

The Partitions, a pattern for which is shown in Fig. 99, can be made faster by leaving out the doorway, but this can be easily cut by sawing along the edges and then splitting out the section between the saw cuts.

The Elevator Car should be built up of cigar-box wood, as shown in Figs. 101 and 102. The front portion (D) should be about 3 inches wide, 2½ inches deep, and 4 inches high, and the rear portion (E) should be of the same width, 2 inches deep, and 2½ inches high. Fasten these upon the base piece F as shown.

The Elevator Car should be constructed from cigar-box wood, as demonstrated in Figs. 101 and 102. The front part (D) should be approximately 3 inches wide, 2½ inches deep, and 4 inches high, while the back part (E) should have the same width, be 2 inches deep, and 2½ inches high. Attach these to the base piece F as illustrated.

[Pg 61]

The Elevator Guides. Bore the holes G through the top and bottom of the car, close to the sides, for guide wires H to run through (Figs. 101 and 102). These holes may be bored with a screw-eye if you haven't a gimlet or drill. Bell-wire, or almost any wire that you have on hand, will do for the guides. Fasten two screw-eyes into the under side of the top of the shaft, the same distance apart as holes G, and in the proper position so they will come exactly over them (I, Fig. 100). Use the car for determining these measurements. Then bore two holes through the bottom of the shaft directly below the screw-eyes (J, Fig. 100). Attach the wire to one screw-eye, run it down through holes G in the car, through one of the holes J, then across to and up through the other hole J, up through the other set of holes G in the car, and attach to the second screw-eye I.

The Elevator Guides. Drill holes G through the top and bottom of the car, close to the sides, for guide wires H to run through (Figs. 101 and 102). You can use a screw-eye if you don’t have a gimlet or drill. Any kind of wire you have on hand, like bell wire, will work for the guides. Secure two screw-eyes into the underside of the top of the shaft, spaced the same distance apart as holes G, and positioned perfectly to line up with those holes (I, Fig. 100). Use the car to measure these distances. Next, drill two holes through the bottom of the shaft directly under the screw-eyes (J, Fig. 100). Connect the wire to one screw-eye, run it down through holes G in the car, through one of the holes J, then across to the other hole J, up through the other set of holes G in the car, and attach it to the second screw-eye I.

The Cables. The elevator is lifted by means of cord L (Figs. 97 and 101). Fasten this cord to a tack driven into the top of the car, then run it up and over spool M (Figs. 97 and 101), over spool N (Fig. 97), and tie to weight K.

The Cables. The elevator is lifted using cord L (Figs. 97 and 101). Secure this cord to a tack nailed into the top of the car, then thread it up and over spool M (Figs. 97 and 101), over spool N (Fig. 97), and tie it to weight K.

The Counter-balance. A bottle, filled with sand to make it weigh more than twice as much as the car, should be used for this. Screw a small screw-eye into the cork to tie the cord to.

The Counter-balance. A bottle filled with sand to weigh more than twice the weight of the car should be used for this. Screw a small screw-eye into the cork to attach the cord.

The counter-balance runs up and down in

The counter-balance moves up and down in

The Smoke-stack, which is fastened to the back of the building (Fig. 97). Make the stack of cardboard mailing-tubes, joining them end to end with bands of paper pasted [Pg 62] around them. Fasten the stack to the back of the building with wire straps, and brace the top as shown in Fig. 96, but leave it unattached until you have adjusted

The Smoke-stack is attached to the back of the building (Fig. 97). Create the stack using cardboard mailing tubes, connecting them end to end with strips of paper glued around them. Secure the stack to the back of the building with wire straps, and support the top as indicated in Fig. 96, but keep it loose until you've made adjustments. [Pg 62]

Fig. 97.—Section through Elevator Shaft.

Fig. 97.—Cross-section of Elevator Shaft.

The Overhead Pulleys, or sheaves. These are spools. You will see by looking at Fig. 100 that spool M turns on the axle O, and the ends of this axle are cut to fit snugly in screw-eyes I.

The Overhead Pulleys, or sheaves. These are spools. By looking at Fig. 100, you can see that spool M rotates on the axle O, and the ends of this axle are designed to fit snugly into screw-eyes I.

Fasten pulley spool N in the smoke-stack by means of a wooden axle pushed through holes pierced in the side of the stack, as is shown in the small drawing above, Fig. 97. Bore a hole through the back of the building for the cable cord L to run through (P, Figs. 97 and 100), and cut another through the smoke-stack.

Fasten pulley spool N in the smoke stack using a wooden axle pushed through holes drilled into the side of the stack, as shown in the small drawing above, Fig. 97. Drill a hole through the back of the building for the cable cord L to run through (P, Figs. 97 and 100), and cut another one through the smoke stack.

[Pg 63]

How the Car Operates. When the weight and cord have been adjusted and the smoke-stack erected, the elevator will run from the ground floor up to the roof of its own accord, because the counter-balance is much heavier than the car. To make it descend it is necessary to add weight to the car, to make it enough heavier than the counter-balance so it will drop of its own accord. This is done with

How the Car Operates. Once the weight and cord have been adjusted and the smoke-stack is set up, the elevator will automatically move from the ground floor to the roof because the counter-balance is much heavier than the car. To make it go down, you need to add weight to the car, making it heavier than the counter-balance so it will drop on its own. This is done with

Ballast consisting of a bottle of sand or salt of twice the combined weight of counter-balance K and the car. After filling the bottle, cork it up, and screw a screw-eye into the cork. Then screw the eye of a 2-inch hook-and-eye into the roof of the building, directly over the center of box E of the elevator (R, Figs. 97 and 101), and attach one end of a rubber-band to the hook and tack the other end to the top of the elevator-shaft (Fig. 101).

Ballast made up of a bottle filled with sand or salt that weighs twice as much as the combined weight of the counter-balance K and the car. After filling the bottle, seal it with a cork, and screw a screw-eye into the cork. Then, install the eye of a 2-inch hook-and-eye into the ceiling of the building, directly above the center of box E of the elevator (R, Figs. 97 and 101), and attach one end of a rubber band to the hook, tacking the other end to the top of the elevator shaft (Fig. 101).

With the hook and rubber-band properly adjusted, this is what happens when the car ascends to the top of the shaft. The bottom of the rear portion of the car strikes bottle Q, lifts it enough to release the end of the hook (R), and the rubber-band springs the hook out of the way (Fig. 97). The bottle remains upon the rear portion of the car, and its weight carries the car to the bottom of the shaft.

With the hook and rubber band properly adjusted, here's what happens when the car reaches the top of the shaft. The bottom of the rear part of the car hits bottle Q, lifting it just enough to release the end of the hook (R), and the rubber band pushes the hook out of the way (Fig. 97). The bottle stays on the rear part of the car, and its weight pulls the car back down to the bottom of the shaft.

Fig. 98.—Floors.

Fig. 99.—Partitions.

Fig. 99.—Dividers.

Fig. 100.—Front View of Elevator Shaft.
Figs. 101 and 102.—Elevator Car Details.

To Make the Car Rise to the top of the shaft again, remove [Pg 64] bottle Q. Replace the bottle upon the end of hook R, and it will be in position for the next trip downwards.

To Make the Car Rise to the top of the shaft again, remove [Pg 64] bottle Q. Put the bottle back on the end of hook R, and it will be set for the next trip down.

[Pg 65]

Cut the holes Y and Z (Fig. 100) through the outside wall of the shaft for hand holes through which to reach bottle Q and hook R.

Cut the holes Y and Z (Fig. 100) through the outer wall of the shaft for access points to reach bottle Q and hook R.

Fig. 103.—Detail of Brake and Controlling Levers.

Fig. 103.—Detail of Brake and Control Levers.

Figures 97, 100, and 103 show

__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, and __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__ demonstrate

A Simple Control for stopping the car at the different floor levels. Stick S may be a piece of broom-handle, curtain-pole, or flagstaff. Bore a hole through the bottom of the shaft, directly below holes C in the floors (T, Fig. 100), and slip the stick through hole T and into slots C. Then locate on one side of stick S points just below the under face of each floor, and upon the opposite side locate points just above where the back edge of the elevator will come when the car is raised to each floor level (Fig. 97). Remove the stick, and drill or bore a small hole at each point marked; then replace it, nail a small block (U, Fig. 100) across the top end to hold it in place, and drive a nail, with its head filed off, into each of the holes.

A Simple Control for stopping the car at different floor levels. Stick S can be a piece of broom handle, curtain pole, or flagpole. Drill a hole through the bottom of the shaft, directly below holes C in the floors (T, Fig. 100), and slide the stick through hole T and into slots C. Then mark on one side of stick S points just below the underside of each floor, and on the opposite side mark points just above where the back edge of the elevator will be when the car is raised to each floor level (Fig. 97). Take out the stick, and drill a small hole at each marked point; then put it back, nail a small block (U, Fig. 100) across the top end to hold it in place, and drive a nail, with its head filed off, into each of the holes.

When stick S is turned to the position shown in Fig. 97, while the car is going down, the first nail below the car will project beneath it and bring it to a stop; and if the stick is turned in the opposite direction while the elevator is going up, the [Pg 66] first nail above the car will project over the back edge of portion E and bring the car to a stop.

When stick S is turned to the position shown in Fig. 97, while the car is moving down, the first nail below the car will come out and stop it; and if the stick is turned the other way while the elevator is moving up, the [Pg 66] first nail above the car will come out over the back edge of section E and stop the car.

Fig. 104.—An Outdoor Elevator.

Fig. 104.—A Lift for Outdoors.

Two Levers operate the brakes (W, Figs. 97 and 100). Cut these of the shape shown in Fig. 103, and screw one to each side wall. Then tack a piece of cord to stick S, wrap the ends of the cord once around, slip them through screw-eyes V screwed into the side walls, and tie to tacks driven into levers W.

Two Levers control the brakes (W, Figs. 97 and 100). Cut these to the shape shown in Fig. 103, and attach one to each side wall. Then, fix a piece of cord to stick S, wrap the ends of the cord once around, thread them through screw-eyes V attached to the side walls, and tie them to tacks inserted into levers W.

One series of brakes can now be set by pulling forward one lever, and the other series by pulling forward the other lever. By driving a nail into stick S at X (Fig. 100), and a nail into the bottom of [Pg 67] the shaft, each side of stick S, the levers will turn the stick just far enough in either direction to bring the brakes into operation.

One set of brakes can now be activated by pulling one lever forward, and the other set by pulling the other lever forward. By driving a nail into stick S at X (Fig. 100), and a nail into the bottom of [Pg 67] the shaft, on each side of stick S, the levers will turn the stick just enough in either direction to engage the brakes.

Fig. 105.—Supports for Elevator Guides and Cables.

If there is a kitchen porch to your house, construct

If your house has a kitchen porch, build

The Outdoor Elevator shown in Fig. 104 to run from the ground up to that porch. If you live in an upper story of an apartment building, your elevator can be made to run to a greater height, which, of course, will make more fun.

The Outdoor Elevator shown in Fig. 104 runs from the ground up to that porch. If you live on an upper floor of an apartment building, your elevator can be made to reach a greater height, which, of course, will be more fun.

It will save considerable work to use the porch, because for one thing you will not have to build an upper platform to stand upon to reach the elevator car when it runs to the top, and for another thing the supports for the guides and cable can be fastened directly to one of the porch posts.

Using the porch will save a lot of effort because, for one, you won't have to build an upper platform to stand on to reach the elevator car when it goes to the top, and for another, the supports for the guides and cable can be attached directly to one of the porch posts.

Figure 105 shows a large detail of

__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ shows a close-up of

The Guide Supports. Cross strips A, B, and C should be [Pg 68] 18 or 20 inches long, about 2 inches wide, and 1 inch thick. At a distance of about 1 inch from one end of strips A and B screw a screw-eye into one edge, and 8 inches from those eyes screw a second screw-eye (D, Fig. 105). Screw-eyes with ½ inch eyes are large enough. A dozen will cost about 5 cents at the hardward store. The elevator guides are fastened to these.

The Guide Supports. Cross strips A, B, and C should be [Pg 68] 18 or 20 inches long, about 2 inches wide, and 1 inch thick. Around 1 inch from one end of strips A and B, screw a screw-eye into one edge, and 8 inches from those screw-eyes, attach a second screw-eye (D, Fig. 105). Screw-eyes with ½ inch openings are sufficient. A dozen will cost about 5 cents at the hardware store. The elevator guides are attached to these.

Besides the screw-eyes there must be two clothes-line pulleys for the cable to run over. These cost 5 cents apiece. Screw one pulley into the edge of strip B, halfway between the two screw-eyes D (E, Fig. 105), the other into an edge of strip C at the same distance from the end that you have placed the pulley in strip B (F, Fig. 105).

Besides the screw eyes, you'll need two clothesline pulleys for the cable to run over. Each one costs 5 cents. Attach one pulley to the edge of strip B, halfway between the two screw eyes D (E, Fig. 105), and the other pulley to an edge of strip C at the same distance from the end where you installed the pulley on strip B (F, Fig. 105).

Nail strip A to the porch post as close to the ground as you can get it, strip B to the same face of the same post, about 18 inches above the porch railing, and strip C to the opposite face of the post at the same height as strip B. Nail these strips securely in place.

Nail strip A to the porch post as low as you can, strip B to the same side of the post, about 18 inches above the porch railing, and strip C to the opposite side of the post at the same height as strip B. Nail these strips down securely.

If you cannot find a starch-box or other small box out of which to make

If you can't find a starch box or any other small box to make

The Car, go to a grocery store. You will be sure to find just what you want there. It is not likely that the grocer will charge you anything for a small box like this. If you have placed screw-eyes D 8 inches apart, as directed, the width of the box should be a trifle less than this measurement, but if the box you pick up is wider the screw-eyes can be spaced as much farther apart as is necessary to accommodate it.

The Car, go to a grocery store. You’ll definitely find what you need there. It’s unlikely that the grocer will charge you anything for a small box like this. If you’ve placed the screw-eyes D 8 inches apart, as directed, the width of the box should be just a bit less than this measurement. However, if the box you grab is wider, you can space the screw-eyes farther apart as needed to fit it.

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Fig. 106.—Elevator Car.

Fig. 106.—Lift Cabin.

Figure 106 shows how the box is converted into the car. Screw two screw-eyes into each side of the box, one above the other, as shown at G, for the elevator guides to run through, screw another into the exact center of the top (H) to tie the hoisting cable to, and screw another into the exact center of the bottom to tie the lowering cable to. Nail a narrow strip across the open front of the car, at the bottom, to keep things from falling out.

Figure 106 shows how the box is turned into the car. Screw two screw-eyes into each side of the box, one above the other, as shown at G, for the elevator guides to run through. Screw another one into the exact center of the top (H) to attach the hoisting cable, and screw another one into the exact center of the bottom to attach the lowering cable. Nail a narrow strip across the open front of the car at the bottom to prevent things from falling out.

Get heavy wrapping-twine or stovepipe wire for

Get some heavy wrapping twine or stovepipe wire for

The Guides. Attach these guides to screw-eyes D in strip B, first, drop them through screw-eyes G in the sides of the car, and then fasten to screw-eyes D in strip A.

The Guides. Attach these guides to screw-eyes D in strip B, then drop them through screw-eyes G on the sides of the car, and finally fasten them to screw-eyes D in strip A.

Fig. 107.—Counter-balance.

Fig. 107.—Counterbalance.

The Counter-balance is a large can filled with earth, sand, or small stones. Its weight must be equal to about three times that of the empty car. Fasten the lifting cable through holes punched in opposite sides of the can (Fig. 107).

The Counter-balance is a big can filled with dirt, sand, or small stones. It needs to weigh about three times that of the empty car. Secure the lifting cable through holes punched in opposite sides of the can (Fig. 107).

Use a strong wrapping-twine for

Use strong twine for

The Lifting Cable. After tying this to the counter-balance, run it over pulley F, then over pulley E, and tie to screw-eye H in the top of the car. The cable must be of the right length so when the counter-balance has dropped to the ground the car [Pg 70] will come just above the porch railing, as shown in Fig. 104. Tie

The Lifting Cable. After securing this to the counter-balance, run it over pulley F, then over pulley E, and attach it to the screw-eye H at the top of the car. The cable needs to be the right length so that when the counter-balance drops to the ground, the car hangs just above the porch railing, as shown in Fig. 104. Tie [Pg 70]

The Lowering Cable to the screw-eye screwed into the under side of the car.

The Lowering Cable to the screw-eye attached to the bottom of the car.

As long as the weight of the car and its load remains less than half of that of the counter-balance, the counter-balance will drop and by so doing lift the car. The cable attached to the bottom must be pulled to lower the car.

As long as the weight of the car and its load is less than half of the counterweight, the counterweight will drop, lifting the car. The cable attached to the bottom has to be pulled to lower the car.

Those of you boys who own a tree-hut, or intend to build one,[1] should erect an elevator similar to the one just described, for hoisting supplies to the hut.

Those of you guys who have a treehouse or plan to build one,[1] should put up an elevator like the one just mentioned, to lift supplies to the treehouse.

FOOTNOTE

[1] Plans for building Tree-huts, and a Dumb-waiter for supplies, are given in Chapter XXV of "The Handy Boy."

[1] Plans for building treehouses and a dumbwaiter for supplies are detailed in Chapter XXV of "The Handy Boy."

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CHAPTER VIII

HOME-MADE MECHANICAL TOYS

Those of you boys who have examined the little mechanical toys sold upon the street corners just before Christmas probably have been surprised to find how simply they are made, and perhaps it has never occurred to you that you might make toys equally as good for presents for your younger brothers, sisters, or cousins. Most of the smaller mechanical toys are not only easy to make, but they require materials which cost little and can usually be picked up at home. Sometimes it takes considerable thinking and planning to discover just the things which can be adapted to the various parts of toys; but that is where part of the fun of toy making comes in.

Those of you boys who have looked at the little mechanical toys sold on street corners right before Christmas have probably been surprised at how simply they're made. You might not have thought that you could make toys just as good for gifts for your younger brothers, sisters, or cousins. Most of the smaller mechanical toys are not only easy to create, but they also need materials that are inexpensive and can usually be found at home. Sometimes, it takes a bit of creativity and planning to figure out what items can be used for different parts of the toys, but that's part of the fun of making toys.

A Buzz-saw Whirligig is an interesting toy (Fig. 108). Lay out a disk about 5 inches in diameter upon a piece of cardboard, locate the position for the spool-end on the center of each face, and make four rings outside of this. Divide the circumference of the disk into sixteen equal parts, and lay off the teeth as shown. (Fig. 111.) The spool-ends used for centers should have two holes drilled through them for the twisting cord to slip through, and should be fastened to the disk with glue or brads.

A Buzz-saw Whirligig is a cool toy (Fig. 108). Place a disk about 5 inches in diameter on a piece of cardboard, mark the spot for the spool-end in the center of each side, and create four rings around this. Divide the edge of the disk into sixteen equal parts and mark out the teeth as shown. (Fig. 111.) The spool-ends used for the centers should have two holes drilled through them for the twisting cord to go through, and should be secured to the disk with glue or brads.

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A cotton string is best for

Fig. 111.—Detail of Buzz-saw Whirligig shown in Fig. 108.

Operating the Whirligig. After slipping it through the holes in the spool-ends, tie the ends together. To work the toy, slip the first finger of each hand through the loop of each end, and whirl the disk in one direction until the string is twisted from both ends as far as the center. Then pull firmly on the ends of the string, and the disk will whirl in the opposite direction until the string is untwisted and twisted up again in the opposite direction. As the strings twist, slacken your hold upon the ends, and when it has wound up tight pull again to make it whirl in the opposite direction. The disk should whirl very steadily when working right, and the knack of making the string twist so the disk will do so is attained with a little practice.

Using the Whirligig. First, thread it through the holes in the ends of the spool and tie the ends together. To use the toy, put the first finger of each hand through the loop on each end, then spin the disk in one direction until the string is twisted from both ends towards the center. Next, pull firmly on the ends of the string, and the disk will spin in the opposite direction until the string unwinds and twists again in the opposite direction. As the strings twist, loosen your grip on the ends, and when it has wound up tightly, pull again to make it spin the other way. The disk should rotate smoothly when working correctly, and you'll get the hang of making the string twist so that the disk spins with a little practice.

The Clog-dancer (Fig. 109) is an easily made loose-jointed doll. His dancing-stage is a shingle or piece of stiff cardboard held on the edge of a chair beneath your knee. He is held by means of the string attached to his head, so that his feet rest lightly upon the stage, and he is made to jig by tapping the outer end of the stage with the free hand.

The Clog-dancer (Fig. 109) is a simple, loose-jointed doll to create. His dance stage is a shingle or a piece of stiff cardboard placed on the edge of a chair beneath your knee. He is supported by a string connected to his head, allowing his feet to rest gently on the stage, and you make him dance by tapping the outer end of the stage with your free hand.

Fig. 108.—The Buzz-saw whizzes when you twist the Cord.

Fig. 108.—The buzz saw spins fast when you plug it in.

Fig. 109.—The Eccentric Clog-dancer is a Circus in himself.

Fig. 109.—The Eccentric Clog-Dancer is like his own circus.

Fig. 110.—Pull the string and Jack jumps comically.

Fig. 110.—Pull the string and Jack jumps in a funny way.

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With a little practice the figure can be made to go through the steps of the most eccentric clog-dancer.

With a bit of practice, the figure can be made to mimic the movements of the most unique clog dancer.

Fig. 112.—Details of Body of the Clog-dancer shown in Fig. 109.

Fig. 112.—Details of the Clog-dancer's body shown in Fig. 109.

The more grotesque the dancer's appearance is, the more amusing his dancing will be, so the cruder you make him the better. Figure 112 shows the working details for his construction. The center part of a thread-spool forms the head, and a spool-end and the rounded end of a broom-handle form the hat. These three pieces are nailed together. The body is a piece of a broom-handle, and a spool-end nailed to it forms the shoulders. Drive [Pg 74] a nail into the end of the body, tie a string to this, and run the string up through the hole in the head, and out through a hole in the hat; tie the string to a fancy-work ring.

The more bizarre the dancer looks, the funnier his dance will be, so the more ridiculous you make him, the better. Figure 112 shows the details for how to make him. The center part of a thread spool forms the head, and a spool end along with the rounded end of a broom handle make up the hat. These three pieces are nailed together. The body is a section of a broom handle, and a spool end nailed to it creates the shoulders. Drive a nail into the end of the body, tie a string to it, and run the string up through the hole in the head and out through a hole in the hat; then tie the string to a decorative ring.

Fig. 113.—Details of Body of the Jumping-Jack shown in Fig. 110.

Fig. 113.—Details of the Jumping Jack body shown in Fig. 110.

The arms and legs are made of sticks whittled to the lengths marked in Fig. 112, and about ¼ inch in diameter, and are jointed by driving tacks into their ends and connecting these with heavy linen thread. Figure 112 shows how the feet and hands are cut, and how tacks are driven into them for the thread connections. Paint the clog-dancer's body, arms, and legs white, his head, hands, and feet black, and mark his eyes, nose, and mouth upon his face in white.

The arms and legs are made from sticks carved to the lengths indicated in Fig. 112, and are about ¼ inch in diameter. They are jointed by driving tacks into their ends and connecting these with sturdy linen thread. Figure 112 illustrates how the feet and hands are shaped and how tacks are affixed to them for the thread connections. Paint the clog-dancer's body, arms, and legs white, his head, hands, and feet black, and add his eyes, nose, and mouth on his face in white.

A Toy Jumping-Jack is always amusing, and Fig. 110 shows a simply constructed home-made model. You will see by Fig. 113 how the figure is made. The peaked _hat_ [Pg 75] is half a spool tapered down from the end to the center; and the head is the center from a darning-cotton spool, shaped down at one end for a neck, and with eyes, nose, and mouth cut in on one side. Figure 113 shows the diagrams for the front and back of the body, the arms, and the legs. These are cut out of cigar-box wood. Cut the neck stick A long enough to run through the head and hat, with a square block on the end to fit between the body pieces. The blocks B should be of the same thickness as block A. Bore the pivotal holes through the arms and legs in the positions shown, using a small gimlet or red-hot nail with which to do the boring, and tie a piece of heavy linen thread through each as shown. The arms and legs are pivoted on brads driven through the front of the body into the back.

A Toy Jumping-Jack is always entertaining, and Fig. 110 shows a simply made homemade model. You will see by Fig. 113 how the figure is constructed. The peaked _hat_ [Pg 75] is half a spool tapered from the end to the center; and the head is the center of a darning-cotton spool, shaped down at one end for a neck, with eyes, nose, and mouth cut into one side. Figure 113 shows the diagrams for the front and back of the body, the arms, and the legs. These are cut out of cigar-box wood. Cut the neck stick long enough to go through the head and hat, with a square block on the end to fit between the body pieces. The blocks B should be the same thickness as block A. Bore the pivotal holes through the arms and legs in the positions shown, using a small gimlet or a red-hot nail for boring, and tie a piece of heavy linen thread through each as shown. The arms and legs are pivoted on brads driven through the front of the body into the back.

When the body has been fastened together, bring the ends of the threads together, and tie to a small ring; also knot the threads close to the body to keep them together. In painting Jack, you might provide him with a red coat, blue trousers and a blue hat, white stockings, and black shoes.

When the body is put together, bring the ends of the threads together and tie them to a small ring; also, knot the threads close to the body to keep them secured. When painting Jack, you might give him a red coat, blue pants, a blue hat, white socks, and black shoes.

A Cricket-rattle is about the liveliest form of rattle ever devised (Fig. 114). After constructing one for your sister or brother, you probably will decide to make one for yourself. For this rattle, first prepare a notched spool (A, Fig. 116). The notches in this need not be cut as perfectly as shown, but the notches in one end of the spool must be exactly opposite those in the other end. Whittle the handle B to the shape and size shown, cut the strips C out of cigar [Pg 76] box wood, and prepare the block D as shown. The groove in the edge of D is cut of just the right width to receive the end of the wooden strip E. The length of E is best determined after nailing the ends of strips C to D, and slipping the handle through the holes in strips C and spool A. It should extend from the groove in D into the notches in A. Make it as wide as the spool is high. Paint the rattle red or blue.

A Cricket-rattle is one of the most fun types of rattles you can make (Fig. 114). After you create one for your brother or sister, you’ll probably want to make one for yourself. To start this rattle, first prepare a notched spool (A, Fig. 116). The notches don’t have to be cut perfectly, but the notches at one end of the spool must align directly opposite those at the other end. Carve the handle B to the shape and size shown, cut the strips C out of cigar box wood, and prepare the block D as illustrated. The groove in the edge of D should be cut just wide enough to fit the end of the wooden strip E. The length of E is best figured out after you nail the ends of strips C to D and slide the handle through the holes in strips C and spool A. It should extend from the groove in D to the notches in A. Make it as wide as the spool is tall. Paint the rattle red or blue.

Details of the Noisy Cricket-rattle shown Fig. 114.

Fig. 116.—Details of the Noisy Cricket-rattle shown in Fig. 114.

The Turtle Toy which crawls along the floor when you alternately pull and slacken a thread that runs through its shell, has always been one of the most popular of mechanical toys, and you will be surprised to find how easily our home-made model shown in Fig. 115 is put together. The shell is a small tin mold such as is used for molding jellies. One about 4 inches long costs 10 cents. A mold having the form of a bunch of grapes is a pretty good form for the turtle shell, as you will see by the illustrations.

The Turtle Toy that moves across the floor when you pull and release a thread through its shell has always been one of the most popular mechanical toys. You'll be surprised at how easily our homemade model shown in Fig. 115 is put together. The shell is a small tin mold like the ones used for making jellies. A mold around 4 inches long costs 10 cents. A mold shaped like a bunch of grapes works pretty well for the turtle shell, as you'll see in the illustrations.

Fig. 114.—Whirling the Cricket-rattle makes it chirp.

Fig. 114.—Turning the Cricket-rattle makes it chirp.

Fig. 115. —The Crawling Turtle's shell Is a Jelly Mould.

Fig. 115. —The Crawling Turtle's shell is a jelly mold.

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Fig. 117.—How Head, Feet, and Tail are Attached to a Jelly Mould to Make the Turtle shown in Fig. 115.
Fig. 118.—The Spool Wheels and the Rubber-bands which Propel them

Fig. 117.—How the head, feet, and tail are attached to a jelly mold to create the turtle shown in Fig. 115.
Fig. 118.—The spool wheels and the rubber bands that drive them

The head, the tail, and the four feet are cut out of tin from a can, and bent into the forms shown in Fig. 117. Then slits are cut through the narrow rim of the mold by piercing the tin with the point of a nail at the proper places for attaching them, as shown in the small detail drawing, and the tab ends are pushed through the slits, bent over, and clinched with a pair of pincers.

The head, tail, and four feet are cut out of a tin can and shaped into the forms shown in Fig. 117. Next, slits are made in the narrow rim of the mold by piercing the tin with a nail at the right spots for attachment, as illustrated in the small detail drawing. The tab ends are then pushed through the slits, bent over, and secured with a pair of pliers.

A thread spool 1¼ inches long forms the wheels on which the turtle runs, and two rubber-bands 1½ inches long propel it. Cut a piece of a lead pencil a trifle longer then the spool, split it into halves, remove the lead, and insert the rubber bands in the groove; then slip the piece of pencil [Pg 78] into the hole in the spool (Fig. 118). The rubber-band ends must project an equal distance beyond the spool-ends. Before fastening the spool to the tin mold shell, tie the end of a piece of heavy linen thread to its center, and then wind about twenty turns about it. Pierce a hole through each side of the mold a trifle in front of the center, and after slipping pieces of string through the ends of the rubber-bands (Fig. 118), tie them through the holes pierced through the sides of the mold. Pierce a hole through the shell, directly over the center of the spool, slip the free end of the thread wound on the spool through this hole, and tie it to a fancy-work ring (Fig. 117).

A spool that is 1¼ inches long acts as the wheels for the turtle, and two rubber bands that are 1½ inches long make it move. Cut a piece of a pencil slightly longer than the spool, split it in half, remove the lead, and insert the rubber bands into the groove; then slide the pencil piece into the hole in the spool (Fig. 118). The ends of the rubber bands should stick out evenly from both ends of the spool. Before attaching the spool to the tin mold shell, tie the end of a piece of sturdy linen thread to its center, then wrap about twenty turns around it. Make a small hole through each side of the mold just a bit ahead of the center, and after threading pieces of string through the ends of the rubber bands (Fig. 118), tie them through the holes you made on the sides of the mold. Make another hole through the shell, directly over the center of the spool, slide the free end of the thread wrapped around the spool through this hole, and tie it to a decorative ring (Fig. 117).

To Make the Turtle Crawl, place it upon the floor, pull on the ring, and as the thread unwinds from the spool the rubber-bands will twist; then slacken the thread, and the turtle will crawl along the floor. As the rubber-bands untwist, the thread will wind up on the spool again. Continue pulling and slackening the thread alternately, and the turtle will continue to crawl.

To Make the Turtle Crawl, put it on the floor, pull on the ring, and as the thread unwinds from the spool, the rubber bands will twist; then loosen the thread, and the turtle will move across the floor. As the rubber bands untwist, the thread will wind back up on the spool. Keep pulling and loosening the thread alternately, and the turtle will keep crawling.

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CHAPTER IX

HOME-MADE TOPS

There are many styles of tops, probably more than you ever dreamed of, and it will surprise you to hear that the owners of some of the most curious forms are bearded men who take as much delight as any girl or boy in spinning them. A few years ago on Murray Island, which is way down among the South Sea Islands, top spinning took such a strong hold upon the attention of the natives that they neglected their work, and families often were without food, boys and girls having to go to school hungry. Matters became so serious, in fact, as a result of this fad for top spinning, that, finally, the head chieftain was compelled to restrict it to certain days. There are many experts among these South Sea Islanders. The men sing songs while their tops spin, cheer them on, and take the greatest precautions to shelter them from wind. An eye witness of a contest reported that the winning top spun 27 minutes, which you must admit is a pretty long time.

There are tons of styles of tops, probably more than you ever imagined, and it might surprise you to learn that some of the most unusual ones belong to bearded guys who enjoy spinning them just as much as any girl or boy. A few years back on Murray Island, which is way down in the South Sea Islands, top spinning became such a big deal for the locals that they slacked off on their work, leaving families without food, and kids often went to school hungry. The situation got so serious because of this top spinning craze that the head chief had to limit it to certain days. There are plenty of pros among these South Sea Islanders. The men sing songs while their tops spin, cheer them on, and take great care to protect them from the wind. An eyewitness of a contest reported that the winning top spun for 27 minutes, which you have to admit is a pretty long time.

Whip-tops and peg-tops of several varieties can be purchased at the corner candy store, but the kinds I am going to show you how to make cannot be bought anywhere.

Whip-tops and peg-tops of different kinds can be bought at the corner candy store, but the ones I’m going to show you how to make aren’t available anywhere.

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Figs. 119 and 120.—Clock Wheel Tops.
Fig. 121.—Upholstering Tack Top.
Fig. 122.—How to Hold Upholstering Tack for Spinning.
Figs. 123 and 124.—Details of Spool Top.

Clock Wheel Tops. A splendid spinner can be made of the little balance-wheel of a broken clock (Fig. 119). This little wheel is so accurately made that it will spin very steadily from a minute and one-half to two minutes. As the ends of this wheel's axle are pointed, the top will stand in one spot as long as it spins.

Clock Wheel Tops. You can create a fantastic spinning top from the small balance wheel of a broken clock (Fig. 119). This little wheel is crafted so precisely that it can spin steadily for about one and a half to two minutes. Since the ends of the wheel's axle are pointed, the top will remain in one place as long as it spins.

The toothed wheel shown in Fig. 120, or any of the other forms of wheels from a clockwork will make good spinners, yet, unless you file their pivot ends to points, they will not spin in one spot but will glide and hop over the table in spirals. The friction thus produced decreases the length of time that they will spin, but makes them none the less [Pg 81] interesting as tops. Great fun may be had spinning these wheel tops around the balance-wheel top, while the latter is spinning. Figure 129 shows how to hold a clock wheel between the thumb and first finger, for spinning. Start it with a snapping movement of the fingers.

The toothed wheel shown in Fig. 120, or any of the other types of wheels from a clock mechanism, can make good spinners. However, if you don't file their pivot ends to points, they won't spin in one place but will slide and bounce across the table in spirals. The friction created reduces the time they spin, but they are still [Pg 81] interesting as tops. You can have a lot of fun spinning these wheel tops around the balance wheel top while it’s spinning. Figure 129 shows how to hold a clock wheel between your thumb and first finger to spin it. Get it started with a snapping motion of your fingers.

Fig. 125.—A Shoe-polish Can Top.

Fig. 125.—A Shoe Polish Can Lid.

A Rug-Tack Top. A rug tack or large upholstering tack is another good spinner. While the clockwork wheels are spun by twirling them by means of the upper end of the pivots, the tack top is spun by holding the spinning point between the thumb and first finger, as shown in Fig. 122, then giving it a quick twirl and dropping it upon a table. The tack top is an eccentric spinner. First it hops about in a very lively fashion; then, when you think it is about ready to topple over, it regains its balance and for some seconds spins quite as steadily as the clockwork balance-wheel top. The tack top can be spun upon its head as well as upon its point.

A Rug-Tack Top. A rug tack or large upholstering tack is another great spinner. While the clockwork wheels spin by twirling them using the upper end of the pivots, the tack top is spun by holding the spinning point between your thumb and first finger, as shown in Fig. 122, then giving it a quick twist and dropping it on a table. The tack top is an unusual spinner. First, it hops around in a lively way; then, when you think it’s about to fall over, it regains its balance and spins as steadily as the clockwork balance-wheel top for several seconds. The tack top can spin on its head as well as on its point.

A Spool Top. The top in Fig. 123 is made from a half of a spool and a short piece of lead-pencil. Saw a spool into halves, and then taper one half from its beveled end to the center. Sharpen the piece of pencil to a point, and push it through the spool until its point projects just a trifle. Spin the spool top in the same way as the clock wheel tops.

A Spool Top. The top in Fig. 123 is made from half of a spool and a short piece of pencil lead. Cut a spool in half, and then taper one half from its beveled end to the center. Sharpen the pencil piece to a point and push it through the spool until its point sticks out just a little. Spin the spool top like you would with clock wheel tops.

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A Spinning Top Race-track. By drawing a track upon a piece of cardboard, as shown in Fig. 129, with an opening on the inside, great fun may be had by starting any one of the small tops just described, with the exception of the balance-wheel top, in the center of the space inside of the track, and tilting the cardboard so as to cause the top to spin through the opening on to the track, and around the track. There is a trick in keeping the top from running off the track that can be acquired only with practice.

A Spinning Top Race-track. By drawing a track on a piece of cardboard, as shown in Fig. 129, with an opening on the inside, you can have a lot of fun by starting any of the small tops mentioned earlier, except for the balance-wheel top, in the center of the space inside the track. Then tilt the cardboard to make the top spin through the opening onto the track and around it. There’s a skill to keeping the top from going off the track that you can only master with practice.

A Shoe-polish Can Top (Fig. 125). This is a sure-enough good looking top, and it spins as well as it looks. It is made of a pencil, a cone-shaped piece cut from a spool, similar to the top shown in Fig. 123, and an empty shoe-polish can.

A Shoe-polish Can Top (Fig. 125). This is a really good-looking top, and it spins just as well as it looks. It's made from a pencil, a cone-shaped piece cut from a spool, similar to the top shown in Fig. 123, and an empty shoe-polish can.

Figs. 126-128.—Details of Shoe-polish Can Top.

Figs. 126-128.—Details of Shoe Polish Can Lid.

The dotted line in Fig. 126 indicates how the end of the pencil sticks through a hole in the shoe-polish can, then [Pg 83] through the cone-shaped piece of spool. The hole through the can must be located in the exact center, so the top will balance properly. To find the center, place the box bottom down upon a piece of paper, and with a pencil draw a line around it. Cut the paper along the center, and you will have a piece the shape and size of the can bottom. Fold the piece in half, then in half again the other way (Fig. 127), open it up, and the intersection of the two folds, indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 128, will be the exact center. With the center located, place the piece of paper first upon the bottom, then upon the top of the can, and punch a hole through the center of it and the can, with the point of a large nail. Increase the size of the hole enough to admit the pencil.

The dotted line in Fig. 126 shows how the end of the pencil goes through a hole in the shoe-polish can, then [Pg 83] through the cone-shaped piece of spool. The hole in the can needs to be exactly in the center so that the top will balance correctly. To find the center, place the box bottom down on a piece of paper and draw a line around it with a pencil. Cut the paper down the middle, and you’ll have a piece that’s the shape and size of the can bottom. Fold the paper in half, then fold it in half again the other way (Fig. 127), open it up, and the point where the two folds intersect, shown by dotted lines in Fig. 128, will be the perfect center. Once you find the center, place the piece of paper on the bottom of the can, then on the top, and use a large nail to punch a hole through the center of both the paper and the can. Make the hole big enough for the pencil to fit through.

Fig. 129.—A Spinning Top Race-track.

Fig. 129.—A Spinning Top Racetrack.

Spin this top in the manner shown in Fig. 125. Hold the upper part of the pencil between your hands, with the palms together, and slide your hands back and forth, first [Pg 84] slowly, then rapidly. Release it so as to cause it to drop squarely upon its point upon a level wooden surface. The steadiness of this top's spinning will depend entirely upon the accuracy with which you cut the center hole for the pencil.

Spin this top as shown in Fig. 125. Hold the top part of the pencil between your hands, with your palms together, and slide your hands back and forth, first slowly, then quickly. Let it go so it lands perfectly on its point on a flat wooden surface. The stability of this top's spin will depend entirely on how accurately you cut the center hole for the pencil. [Pg 84]

Fig. 130.—A Spiral Top.

A Spiral Top. The top in Fig. 130 presents a curious appearance while spinning, the spiral design upon it seeming to change its form as the top revolves.

A Spiral Top. The top in Fig. 130 looks fascinating while it spins, with the spiral pattern on it appearing to change shape as the top rotates.

Fig. 131.—Diagram of Spiral for Spiral Top.

The only difference between the construction of this top and the shoe-polish can top is in the substitution of the spiral disk for the polish can. A pencil and cone-shaped piece of spool are required as in the case of the other top.

The only difference between making this top and a shoe-polish can top is that you replace the polish can with a spiral disk. You still need a pencil and a cone-shaped piece of spool, just like with the other top.

The spiral design for the disk, shown in Fig. 131, is large enough so you can make a tracing of it on a piece of transparent paper, and then trace it off upon a piece of cardboard. Fill [Pg 85] in alternate rings with black ink or water-color, in the way shown, then cut out the disk, pierce a hole through its exact center to fit over the pencil end, and glue the under side to the top of the cone-shaped piece of spool. Spin this top in the same way as the shoe-polish can top is spun (Fig. 125).

The spiral design for the disk, shown in Fig. 131, is big enough for you to trace it on a piece of transparent paper, and then transfer it onto a piece of cardboard. Fill [Pg 85] in alternate rings with black ink or watercolor, as shown, then cut out the disk, poke a hole through its center to fit over the pencil end, and glue the underside to the top of the cone-shaped spool piece. Spin this top just like you would the top of a shoe-polish can (Fig. 125).

Fig. 132.—A Merry-go-round Top.

Fig. 132.—A Carousel Top.

A Merry-go-round Top (Fig. 132) is a new idea easily carried out. You will require a cardboard disk 12 inches in diameter, three spools, a pencil, and some light-weight cardboard.

A Merry-go-round Top (Fig. 132) is a fresh concept that's simple to put together. You'll need a cardboard disk that's 12 inches across, three spools, a pencil, and some lightweight cardboard.

Fig. 133 shows the details for this top. If you haven't a compass, use a large-sized dinner plate with which to draw the circumference of the disk (A). Then cut a conical-shaped piece of spool (B), stick the lead-pencil through it for a spinning point (C), punch a hole through the disk to fit over the pencil, and tack the disk to B. Cut [Pg 86] off a third of the length of a ribbon spool for E, and fasten another spool (D) to the top of the pencil. Spool D should be glued fast to the pencil, and the spool-end E should turn loosely upon it. Coat the lower part of the pencil with glue so it will stick fast in B.

Fig. 133 shows the details for this top. If you don't have a compass, use a large dinner plate to draw the circumference of the disk (A). Then cut a cone-shaped piece from a spool (B), stick a pencil through it for a spinning point (C), punch a hole in the disk to fit over the pencil, and attach the disk to B. Cut off a third of the length of a ribbon spool for E, and attach another spool (D) to the top of the pencil. Spool D should be glued securely to the pencil, and the spool end E should turn freely on it. Coat the lower part of the pencil with glue so it will stick firmly in B.

Fig. 133.—Detail of Merry-go-round Top.

Fig. 133.—Detail of Carousel Top.

How the Top Spins. When you have made this much of the top, spin it to see how it works. Wrap the spinning cord—a strong lightweight wrapping-twine—about spool D, in the same manner that you wind the cord on any top; then, holding spool end E with the left hand (Fig. 132), pull steadily upon the cord with the right hand until all is unwound, and gently drop the top upon its spinning point. To get the best results, the cardboard used for the disk platform must be very straight. If it warps, flatten it by pressing it under a pile of books.

How the Top Spins. Once you've made this part of the top, give it a spin to check how it works. Wrap the spinning cord—a strong, lightweight twine—around spool D, just like you would with any top; then, holding spool end E with your left hand (Fig. 132), pull steadily on the cord with your right hand until it's fully unwound, and gently drop the top onto its spinning point. For the best results, the cardboard used for the disk platform needs to be very flat. If it bends, flatten it by placing it under a stack of books.

Fig. 134.—How Horses are Mounted upon Top Platform.

Fig. 134.—How Horses are Mounted on the Top Platform.

Horses and Riders for the merry-go-round [Pg 87] may be prepared like those of the clockwork merry-go-round in Chapter X (Figs. 143, 146, and 147). Figure 134 shows how two burnt matches or toothpicks are lashed to the legs of the horses for supports, and Fig. 133 shows how holes are pierced through the disk platform to stick them in.

Horses and Riders for the carousel [Pg 87] can be set up like the ones on the motorized carousel in Chapter X (Figs. 143, 146, and 147). Figure 134 illustrates how to attach two burnt matches or toothpicks to the horses' legs for support, and Fig. 133 shows how to create holes in the disk platform to insert them.

A Flag mounted upon spool D will make the merry-go-round top complete.

A Flag placed on spool D will finish off the merry-go-round top perfectly.

[Pg 88]

CHAPTER X

HOME-MADE CLOCKWORK TOYS

The toys shown opposite page 90 are a few of the many mechanical toys which can be operated by clockwork, and they are easy to make, too, requiring no more mechanical ability than is possessed by the average boy old enough to handle the simplest of tools.

The toys displayed opposite page 90 are just some of the many mechanical toys that can be powered by clockwork. They're also simple to make, needing no more mechanical skill than what an average boy has when he’s old enough to use basic tools.

Generally it is easy to find an old clock somewhere about the house, and a clock which has been discarded simply because it has become worthless as a timekeeper is perfectly good for operating these toys, provided the mainspring is in working order. It is not necessary to have a set of works for each toy, for they are so quickly fastened in place that but a minute is required to transfer the works from one toy to another.

Generally, it's easy to find an old clock lying around the house, and a clock that has been thrown away just because it no longer keeps time is still perfectly fine for operating these toys, as long as the mainspring is functional. You don't need a separate set of works for each toy, since they can be attached so quickly that it only takes a minute to move the works from one toy to another.

Before commencing work upon the toys, get together

Before starting work on the toys, gather together

The Other Necessary Materials. These will consist of cigar boxes, cardboard, cotton or silk spools, glue, brads, and a few pieces from the woodpile, with one or two additional articles which are mentioned later on. Brads ⁵/₈ inch and 1 inch in length should be purchased for fastening the framework of the toys together, and the cigar boxes should be about 8 inches by 4 inches by 2 inches [Pg 89] in size. Remove the paper from the boxes as described on page 175.

The Other Necessary Materials. These will include cigar boxes, cardboard, cotton or silk spools, glue, brads, and a few pieces from the woodpile, along with one or two other items mentioned later. Brads ⁵/₈ inch and 1 inch in length should be purchased to fasten the framework of the toys together, and the cigar boxes should measure about 8 inches by 4 inches by 2 inches [Pg 89]. Remove the paper from the boxes as described on page 175.

Fig. 139.—How the Clockwork Motor is Fastened to the Cigar-box Cover.
(This Box has been cut down to the Proper Length for the Ferris Wheel.)

Fig. 139.—How the Clockwork Motor is Attached to the Cigar-box Cover.
(This box has been resized to the right size for the Ferris wheel.)

To Prepare the Clockwork for use, remove it from its case, detach the hands and face, and pry off the small wheel pivoted directly under the hands; this wheel is shown at A in Fig. 139. Remove also the balance-wheel B (Fig. 139) and the lever C pivoted next to it, to increase the speed of the remaining wheels.

To Prepare the Clockwork for use, take it out of its case, detach the hands and face, and carefully remove the small wheel positioned directly under the hands; this wheel is shown at A in Fig. 139. Also, take out the balance-wheel B (Fig. 139) and the lever C that’s pivoted next to it, to boost the speed of the remaining wheels.

Fasten the clockwork motor for

Secure the clockwork motor for

The Merry-go-round shown in Fig. 135 to the cover of a cigar box, as illustrated in Figs. 136 and 139, boring [Pg 90] holes through the cover with a gimlet for the pivot ends on the back of the works to set into. Remove the lower flange from a spool (D, Fig. 139) and fasten the spool on to the central pivot of the clockwork in the position formerly occupied by wheel A. The hole in the spool will be too large for the pivot and must be filled up with sealing-wax. To do this, hold a piece of sealing-wax above the spool and melt it with a lighted match, allowing it to drip into the hole until the latter is about half full, then press the wax down with the end of a match until it is compact, smooth it off on the bottom of the spool, and make a dent in it with a pencil to indicate the exact center of the hole. Heat the end of the pivot with a lighted match, and press it into the dent in the wax, being careful in doing so to get the spool straight upon the pivot. Cut a hole through the bottom of the cigar box belonging to the cover to which you have attached the works, for spool D to project through (Fig. 139).

The Merry-go-round seen in Fig. 135 on the cover of a cigar box, as shown in Figs. 136 and 139, makes [Pg 90] holes through the cover using a gimlet for the pivot ends at the back of the mechanism to fit into. Take off the lower flange from a spool (D, Fig. 139) and attach the spool to the central pivot of the clockwork where wheel A used to be. The opening in the spool will be too large for the pivot and needs to be packed with sealing-wax. To do this, hold a piece of sealing-wax above the spool and melt it with a lit match, letting it drip into the hole until it is about half full, then press the wax down with the end of a match until it’s compact, smooth it off on the bottom of the spool, and make an indent with a pencil to mark the exact center of the hole. Warm the end of the pivot with a lit match, and press it into the indent in the wax, taking care to keep the spool aligned on the pivot. Cut a hole in the bottom of the cigar box that matches the cover you’ve attached the mechanism to, so that spool D can stick out (Fig. 139).

To Make the Standard for the merry-go-round, cut four strips of wood 8 inches long, and fasten one to each corner of the cigar box, turning the bottom side of the box up; then cut a piece of ½-inch board 10 inches square, locate its center F by drawing diagonal lines from corner to corner as shown in Fig. 140, bore a 1-inch hole through it at this point for spool D (Fig. 136), and then nail the box to the center of the board as shown in Fig. 140.

To Make the Standard for the merry-go-round, cut four strips of wood that are 8 inches long, and attach one to each corner of the cigar box, turning the bottom of the box up; then cut a piece of ½-inch board that is 10 inches square, find its center F by drawing diagonal lines from corner to corner as shown in Fig. 140, drill a 1-inch hole through it at this point for spool D (Fig. 136), and then nail the box to the center of the board as shown in Fig. 140.

The Tent should be laid out upon heavy white paper as shown in Fig. 141. After describing a circle with a radius of 9 inches, describe another circle within it with a radius of 7½ inches, this inner circle (shown by dotted lines in the diagram) being drawn for a guide in fastening the tent upon its tent-poles.

The Tent should be laid out on heavy white paper as shown in Fig. 141. After drawing a circle with a radius of 9 inches, draw another circle inside it with a radius of 7½ inches. This inner circle (indicated by dotted lines in the diagram) serves as a guide for securing the tent to its poles.

Fig. 135.—A Merry-go-round.

Fig. 135.—A Carousel.

Fig. 137.—A Ferris Wheel.

Ferris Wheel.

Fig. 136.—A Clockwork Motor.

Fig. 136.—A Mechanical Motor.

Fig. 138.—The "Flying Airships.

Fig. 138.—The "Flying Airships."

[Pg 91]

Fig. 140.—Plan of Top of Standard for Merry-go-round.

Fig. 140.—Plan of the Top Structure for the Carousel.

Fig. 141.—Pattern for Tent of Merry-go-round.

Fig. 141.—Merry-go-round Tent Design.

Fig. 142.—The Tent ready to be Fastened upon a Tent-pole.

Fig. 142.—The tent is ready to be secured onto a tent pole.

Cut out the tent along the outer circle, and from it cut a triangular piece about the size of that included between lines KL and ML in the diagram. Cover the under edge of KL and the upper edge of ML with glue, lap KL over to about NL, and rub down the edges with a cloth to make as neat a joint between the pieces as possible (Fig. 142). Bore a hole through each corner of the standard top (G, H, I, and J, Fig. 140), then cut four sticks 7 inches long, sandpaper them until smooth, and glue them into these holes for

Cut out the tent along the outer circle, and from it cut a triangular piece about the size of the area between lines KL and ML in the diagram. Cover the bottom edge of KL and the top edge of ML with glue, overlap KL to about NL, and press down the edges with a cloth to create a neat joint between the pieces as much as possible (Fig. 142). Drill a hole through each corner of the standard top (G, H, I, and J, Fig. 140), then cut four sticks that are 7 inches long, sand them until smooth, and glue them into these holes for

[Pg 92]

The Tent-poles. When the tent has dried, tack it to the ends of the poles, being careful to make it set evenly upon them; cut a scalloped border out of red or blue paper and paste it to the edge all around as shown in Fig. 135, and stick a small flag in the peak.

The Tent-poles. Once the tent is dry, attach it to the ends of the poles, making sure it sits evenly on them; cut a scalloped border from red or blue paper and glue it to the edge all around as shown in Fig. 135, and place a small flag at the top.

Fig. 143.—Full-size Pattern for the Horses of the Merry-go-round.

Fig. 143.—Life-size Pattern for the Horses of the Carousel.

The Horses. A full-size pattern for these is shown in Fig. 143. Take a piece of tracing-paper or any thin transparent paper, and place it over the pattern and make an exact copy; then rub a soft lead-pencil over the other side of the paper, turn the paper over with the blackened side down, and transfer the drawing six times upon a piece of lightweight cardboard. Paint the horses with water-colors, [Pg 93] using the pattern as a guide for shading and marking them, then cut them out with a sharp knife or a pair of scissors.

The Horses. A full-size pattern for these is shown in Fig. 143. Take a piece of tracing paper or any thin transparent paper, place it over the pattern, and make an exact copy; then rub a soft lead pencil on the other side of the paper, flip it over with the blackened side down, and transfer the drawing six times onto a piece of lightweight cardboard. Paint the horses with watercolors, [Pg 93] using the pattern as a guide for shading and marking them, then cut them out with a sharp knife or scissors.

Figure 144 shows the pattern for

__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ shows the pattern for

The Sleighs. Draw this out upon a piece of cardboard, cut it out and fold along the dotted lines, then turn in the flaps and glue them to the dashboard and to the back. Cut two seats by the pattern given, bend down the flaps and glue them to the sides of the sleigh, and make the back for the front seat like that on the back seat (Fig. 145). Then make another sleigh similar to the one just completed, for two are required for the merry-go-round. Paint the sleighs green or yellow with trimmings of a lighter shade.

The Sleighs. Trace this onto a piece of cardboard, cut it out, and fold along the dashed lines. Then tuck in the flaps and glue them to the dashboard and the back. Cut out two seats using the provided pattern, fold down the flaps, and glue them to the sides of the sleigh. Create the back for the front seat to match the one on the back seat (Fig. 145). Next, make another sleigh like the one you just finished, since you'll need two for the merry-go-round. Paint the sleighs green or yellow with lighter-colored accents.

Fig. 144.—Pattern for the Merry-go-round Sleighs.

Fig. 144.—Template for the Merry-go-round Sleighs.

Figure 136 shows

__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ reveals

The Shafts upon which the horses and sleighs are mounted. Cut them 5½ inches long, whittle them round, [Pg 94] and rub them down with sandpaper. The shafts are fastened in a spool hub which has five holes bored in it (E, Fig. 136); bore the holes with a gimlet or small drill, marking them off first with a pencil to be sure of getting them spaced at equal distances. Point the ends of the shafts and glue them into the holes in the hub, then connect this spool to spool D with a piece of a lead-pencil 2 inches long (Fig. 1366).

The Shafts that the horses and sleighs are attached to. Cut them 5½ inches long, shape them round, [Pg 94] and smooth them with sandpaper. The shafts are secured in a spool hub that has five holes drilled into it (E, Fig. 136); drill the holes using a gimlet or a small drill, marking their positions first with a pencil to ensure they are spaced evenly. Point the ends of the shafts and glue them into the holes in the hub, then connect this spool to spool D with a 2-inch piece of a pencil (Fig. 1366).

Fig. 145.—A Completed Sleigh showing Attachment to Shaft.

Fig. 145.—A Finished Sleigh Demonstrating How It Connects to the Shaft.

To fasten the horses to the shafts, punch a hole through three of them at X (Fig. 143) and slip each one over a shaft, then tack the other three horses to the ends of these shafts at the point X. To fasten the sleighs to the remaining shafts, glue one end of a piece of paper to the back of the front seat and the other end around the shaft (Fig. 145).

To attach the horses to the shafts, make a hole through three of them at X (Fig. 143) and slide each one onto a shaft, then secure the other three horses to the ends of these shafts at point X. To connect the sleighs to the remaining shafts, glue one end of a piece of paper to the back of the front seat and wrap the other end around the shaft (Fig. 145).

The Girl Riders for the sleighs are shown full size in Fig. 146, and

The Boy Riders for the horses are shown full size in Fig. 147. Make tracings from the patterns as you made that of the horse and prepare four girls and six boys. Paint their clothes in bright colors. Cut a second leg for each boy rider, so he can be made to sit astride of his horse, and glue the leg to his hip as shown in Fig. 148. Cut a slit in each seat of the sleigh and stick the flaps on the girl riders in them.

The Boy Riders for the horses are shown at full size in Fig. 147. Make tracings from the patterns just like you did for the horse and prepare four girls and six boys. Paint their clothes in bright colors. Cut a second leg for each boy rider so he can sit on his horse, and glue the leg to his hip as shown in Fig. 148. Cut a slit in each seat of the sleigh and tuck the flaps on the girl riders into them.

[Pg 95]

Fig. 148.—How the Second Leg of the Boy is Attached.

Fig. 148.—How the Second Leg of the Boy is Connected.

Fig. 146.—Full-size Pattern for the Girl Riders.

Fig. 147.—Full-size Pattern for the Boy Riders.

For the Platform shown directly under the horses and sleighs in Fig. 135, cut a piece of cardboard 11 inches in diameter; if you choose to make the Ferris wheel before the merry-go-round, you may use the center pieces removed in cutting out the rims, as noted in Fig. 153. Punch a hole through the center of this disk large enough for the peg connecting spools D and E to slip through. This platform rests upon the top of spool D and revolves with it.

For the Platform shown directly under the horses and sleighs in Fig. 135, cut a piece of cardboard that is 11 inches in diameter. If you decide to make the Ferris wheel before the merry-go-round, you can use the center pieces that you removed while cutting out the rims, as mentioned in Fig. 153. Punch a hole in the center of this disk that is big enough for the peg connecting spools D and E to fit through. This platform sits on top of spool D and rotates with it.

To Operate the Merry-go-round. The key by which the mainspring is wound up is shown screwed in place on the under side of the cigar-box cover in Fig. 139. While winding the mainspring, it will be necessary to have some [Pg 96] means of checking it so it will not unwind at the same time, and the best scheme for a check is to bore a small gimlet hole through the cover of the cigar box and stick a match through this and run it between the spokes of one of the clock wheels so as to prevent it from turning. Then when you have wound up the spring and are ready to start the merry-go-round, all you have to do is to pull out the match.

How to Operate the Merry-go-round. The key used to wind the mainspring is inserted on the underside of the cigar-box cover in Fig. 139. While winding the mainspring, you'll need a way to keep it from unwinding at the same time, and the best method is to drill a small hole through the cigar box cover and insert a match through it. Then, run the match between the spokes of one of the clock wheels to stop it from turning. When you finish winding the spring and are ready to start the merry-go-round, just pull out the match.

The model of this toy which the author has before him runs for five minutes with one winding, and any boy can make one which will run as well if he follows the directions given and uses a reasonable amount of carefulness in the work.

The model of this toy that the author has in front of him runs for five minutes on a single winding, and any boy can create one that performs just as well if he follows the instructions provided and takes a reasonable amount of care in the process.

Other Animals than horses may be used if you wish to follow the arrangement of some of the latest merry-go-rounds, and pictures of these may be found among the colored cut-outs sold in the stationery stores, or if you can draw well, you may copy them from books and magazines. Great fun may be had by changing the positions of the boy riders, making them ride backward part of the time and sometimes two and three boys on a horse.

Other animals besides horses can be used if you want to go with the setup of some of the latest merry-go-rounds. You can find pictures of these among the colorful cut-outs sold in stationery stores, or if you’re good at drawing, you can copy them from books and magazines. It can be a lot of fun to switch up the positions of the boy riders, having them ride backward sometimes or even having two or three boys on one horse.

Doubtless you have heard of the famous Ferris wheel, and a good many of you have ridden in the smaller wheels patterned after it, at the amusement parks, so you will be interested in making

Doubtless you have heard of the famous Ferris wheel, and many of you have ridden on the smaller wheels modeled after it at the amusement parks, so you will be interested in making

A Miniature Ferris Wheel like the one shown in Fig. 137.

The Standard for supporting the wheel (Fig. 149) [Pg 97] consists of two triangular supports, one with a spool hub fastened to its top for the axle of the wheel to run through and the other with the cigar box inclosing the clockwork fastened to it. Figures 150, 151, and 152 show the construction of these supports. Cut strips P and Q 12 inches long and R 10 inches long, and trim off the upper ends of P and Q so when they are nailed together the lower ends will be 8 inches apart; nail strip R to the lower ends of P and Q (Fig. 150). To fasten the spool hub to its support, smear one side of a piece of tape with glue and wind it several times around the spool (Fig. 151), then set the spool on top of the support and press the ends of the tape against the sides of strips P and Q (Fig. 152).

The Standard for supporting the wheel (Fig. 149) [Pg 97] consists of two triangular supports, one with a spool hub attached to its top for the wheel's axle to run through and the other with the cigar box enclosing the clock mechanism secured to it. Figures 150, 151, and 152 show the design of these supports. Cut strips P and Q to be 12 inches long and R to be 10 inches long, and trim off the upper ends of P and Q so when they are nailed together, the lower ends will be 8 inches apart; nail strip R to the lower ends of P and Q (Fig. 150). To attach the spool hub to its support, coat one side of a piece of tape with glue and wrap it several times around the spool (Fig. 151), then place the spool on top of the support and press the ends of the tape against the sides of strips P and Q (Fig. 152).

Fig. 149.—Standard for the Ferris Wheel.

The Clockwork Motor for the Ferris wheel is fastened to the cover of a cigar box just as that for the merry-go-round was fastened (Fig. 139), but the length of the box is cut down as much as the clockwork will allow to make the box as square and compact as possible.

The Clockwork Motor for the Ferris wheel is attached to the lid of a cigar box just like the one for the merry-go-round was attached (Fig. 139), but the length of the box is trimmed down as much as the clockwork permits to make the box as square and compact as possible.

It is very necessary to have the axle bearings exactly on a line in order to have the wheel run smoothly, so, in fastening the cigar box to its support, be sure that the center [Pg 98] of the hole in spool D (Fig. 139) is on a level with the spool hub on the opposite support. Nail the supports to a 10-inch by 12-inch board, 8 inches apart, and fasten a cigar box between them for

It’s essential to have the axle bearings aligned perfectly for the wheel to operate smoothly. So, when attaching the cigar box to its support, make sure that the center of the hole in spool D (Fig. 139) is level with the spool hub on the other support. Nail the supports to a 10-inch by 12-inch board, spaced 8 inches apart, and secure a cigar box between them for

The Station Platform (Fig. 149).

The Train Platform (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__).

Fig. 150.—Make Two Supports like this for the Ferris Wheel Standard.
Figs. 151 and 152.—How a Spool is Fastened to the Top of the Support for a Hub.

Fig. 150.—Create two supports like this for the Ferris Wheel standard.
Figs. 151 and 152.—How to attach a spool to the top of the support for the hub.

To Make the Wheel, first lay out the rims upon a piece of heavy cardboard, using the radii shown in Fig. 153 for describing the circles, then lay the sheet of cardboard upon a board and

To Make the Wheel, first arrange the rims on a piece of sturdy cardboard, using the radii shown in Fig. 153 to draw the circles, then place the cardboard on a board and

Cut out the Rims with a sharp knife, being careful not to run off of the pencil line. The

Cut out the Rims with a sharp knife, being careful not to go outside the pencil line. The

Hubs of the wheel are spools with six holes bored in them for the spokes to fit in (Fig. 156). Cut six

Hubs of the wheel are spools that have six holes drilled into them for the spokes to fit into (Fig. 156). Cut six

Spokes 5¾ inches long by ¹/₈ inch thick for each hub, and cut a slot in one end of each for the cardboard rims to fit in (Figs. 154 and 157). Use a saw rather than a knife in making the slots, for it will make a kerf of just the right width to receive the cardboard and will not be so apt to split the ends of the slender spokes. Whittle the hub ends of the spokes to fit the holes in the spool hubs (Figs. 154 and 157). In

Spokes 5¾ inches long by ¹/₈ inch thick for each hub, and cut a slot in one end of each for the cardboard rims to fit in (Figs. 154 and 157). Use a saw instead of a knife to make the slots, as it will create a kerf of the right width to hold the cardboard and is less likely to split the ends of the thin spokes. Shape the hub ends of the spokes to fit the holes in the spool hubs (Figs. 154 and 157). In

Putting together the Spokes, Hubs, and Rims of the wheel, first stick three spokes in a hub and slip a rim into the slots in their ends, then stick the remaining spokes into the hub, one at a time, and spread the rim enough so it can be slipped into their slots (Fig. 155).

Assembling the Spokes, Hubs, and Rims of the wheel, first insert three spokes into a hub and fit a rim into the slots at their ends, then insert the remaining spokes into the hub, one at a time, and expand the rim enough so it can be fitted into their slots (Fig. 155).

[Pg 99]

Fig. 153.—How to Lay out the Cardboard Rims of the Ferris Wheel.
Fig. 154.—The Spokes Fitted into the Spool Hub.
Fig. 155.—The Rim Slipped into the End of the Spokes.

Fig. 153.—How to Arrange the Cardboard Rims of the Ferris Wheel.
Fig. 154.—The Spokes Installed into the Spool Hub.
Fig. 155.—The Rim Inserted into the End of the Spokes.

Fig. 156.—A Spool Hub for the Wheel.
Fig. 157.—How the Spokes, Rims, and Axles are Fastened Together.

Fig. 156.—A Spool Hub for the Wheel.
Fig. 157.—How the Spokes, Rims, and Axles are Connected Together.

When the hubs, rims, and spokes have been assembled, lay them aside and get some heavy wrapping-paper or thin cardboard out of which

When you’ve put together the hubs, rims, and spokes, set them aside and grab some heavy wrapping paper or thin cardboard from which

To Make the Cars. The pattern for the cars is shown in Fig. 158, and on it you will find all the dimensions necessary for laying it out to the proper size. It will be understood that the unfigured portions of the drawing [Pg 100] are the same as those with dimensions marked upon them. The dotted lines at the door and window openings indicate where the cutting is to be done, while all other dotted lines indicate where the cardboard is to be scored and folded.

Building the Cars. The design for the cars is shown in Fig. 158, and you'll find all the necessary dimensions for cutting it to the right size there. It should be noted that the unmarked areas of the drawing [Pg 100] are the same as those with dimensions. The dotted lines at the door and window openings show where to cut, while all other dotted lines indicate where the cardboard should be scored and folded.

Fig. 158.—Pattern for the Ferris Wheel Cars.

Fig. 158.—Design for the Ferris Wheel Cars.

Use a ruler in making the drawing of the car to get the lines straight, and when you have finished it go over it carefully and compare it with the illustration to be sure [Pg 101] it is correct, after which make a careful tracing of it, turn it over and transfer the drawing five times upon cardboard. These and your original drawing will give you the required number of cars. Cut out the openings with a sharp knife and then do the rest of the cutting with a pair of scissors; punch a ¼-inch hole in each end of each car with a lead-pencil (Fig. 158), being careful to get the holes exactly opposite. In folding and gluing the cars, slip the flaps inside and bend the roofs so they will follow the curve of the ends (Fig. 159).

Use a ruler when drawing the car to ensure the lines are straight. Once you've finished, carefully check it against the illustration to make sure it's correct. After that, make a careful tracing of it, flip it over, and transfer the drawing onto cardboard five times. These along with your original drawing will give you the needed number of cars. Use a sharp knife to cut out the openings, and then use scissors for the rest of the cutting. Punch a ¼-inch hole at each end of each car with a pencil, making sure the holes are directly opposite each other. When folding and gluing the cars, tuck the flaps inside and bend the roofs to follow the curve of the ends. [Pg 101]

Fig. 159.—A Completed Car for the Ferris Wheel.

Fig. 159.—A Finished Car for the Ferris Wheel.

When the cars have been completed, cut six sticks 5 inches long, whittle them down until they are about 3/16 inch in diameter, and sandpaper them until they are perfectly round and smooth. These sticks connect the rims of the wheel and form

When the cars are finished, cut six sticks 5 inches long, whittle them down until they're about 3/16 inch in diameter, and sand them until they're perfectly round and smooth. These sticks connect the rims of the wheel and form

The Axles from which the cars are hung (Fig. 159). Great care must be used in fastening them between the rims, for they are easily split, and the best way to do is to start a hole first in the ends of each axle with an awl or by driving a brad part way in and then withdrawing it; then drive a brad through each spoke of one rim into an axle (Fig. 157); slip the other ends of the axles through the holes in the ends of the cars (Fig. 159), and nail the spokes of the other rim to them.

The Axles from which the cars are attached (Fig. 159). Be very careful when securing them between the rims, as they can split easily. The best approach is to make a hole first in the ends of each axle with an awl or by partially driving in a brad and then pulling it out; then drive a brad through each spoke of one rim into an axle (Fig. 157); slide the other ends of the axles through the holes in the ends of the cars (Fig. 159), and nail the spokes of the other rim to them.

[Pg 102]

To Mount the Wheel upon its standard, whittle an axle 8½ inches long to fit the hubs, then hold the wheel between the two uprights, with the hubs on a line with the spool bearings and run the axle through the holes (Fig. 137).

To Mount the Wheel on its support, carve an axle 8½ inches long to fit the hubs, then position the wheel between the two vertical supports, making sure the hubs line up with the spool bearings, and slide the axle through the holes (Fig. 137).

Build Steps at each end of the platform out of heavy writing-paper or light cardboard. Fold the paper or cardboard back and forth, making pleats about ¼ inch wide for the steps, and after gluing it in place cut out the balustrades and glue them to the edges of the steps. Make the top step low enough so there will be about ¼-inch clearance between it and the bottom of the cars (Fig. 137).

Build Steps at each end of the platform using heavy writing paper or light cardboard. Fold the paper or cardboard back and forth, creating pleats about ¼ inch wide for the steps. After gluing it in place, cut out the balustrades and glue them to the edges of the steps. Make sure the top step is low enough so there’s about a ¼-inch clearance between it and the bottom of the cars (Fig. 137).

After you have made a final inspection to see that everything has been put together properly, your toy will be ready for operation, and I am sure that when you set the clockwork machinery in motion, and the little wheel begins to revolve slowly with each little car balancing upon its axle, you will agree that you have constructed a very interesting toy.

After you’ve done a final check to make sure everything is assembled correctly, your toy will be ready to use. I’m sure that once you start the clockwork mechanism and the little wheel starts turning slowly with each car balanced on its axle, you’ll realize you’ve built a really interesting toy.

The "Flying Airships" is a riding device consisting of a number of cars suspended by steel cables from large arms pivoted to the top of a tower. When the machinery is started, the arms begin to revolve slowly, and the motion produced causes the cars to swing out away from the center. As the speed of the arms increases, the cars swing out farther and farther, until when the highest speed has been reached the cables by which the cars are suspended have taken an oblique position and raised the cars some distance above the ground; then the speed of [Pg 103] the engine is gradually diminished, and the cars finally regain their former position. This piece of apparatus is also known as an aerostat.

The "Flying Airships" is a ride that consists of several cars hanging from steel cables attached to large arms that pivot from the top of a tower. When the machinery starts, the arms begin to rotate slowly, and this motion makes the cars swing outward from the center. As the speed of the arms increases, the cars swing out further and further until, at the highest speed, the cables suspending the cars angle and lift them off the ground; then the engine's speed is gradually reduced, and the cars return to their original position. This device is also referred to as an aerostat.

You will find the miniature flying airships (Fig. 138) easy to construct after making a merry-go-round or Ferris wheel, as many of its details are identical with those of the other toys.

You will find the small flying airships (Fig. 138) easy to build after making a carousel or Ferris wheel, as many of the details are the same as those of the other toys.

The Standard for the toy is made similar to the one for the merry-go-round (Fig. 135), except that the top board is omitted and a circular piece of cardboard of the size of the disks removed in cutting out the rims of the Ferris wheel is substituted in its place. Cut a hole through the exact center of the piece large enough so it will fit over spool D (Fig. 136).

The Standard for the toy is made like the one for the merry-go-round (Fig. 135), except that the top board is left out and a circular piece of cardboard the same size as the disks removed when cutting out the rims of the Ferris wheel is used instead. Make a hole in the exact center of the piece that’s big enough to fit over spool D (Fig. 136).

Cut a Mast about 14 inches long and of the diameter of the hole in the spool and stick it into spool D; then 3 inches below the top of the mast fasten a spool with four horizontal arms 6 inches long glued into holes bored in it. Fasten a crosspiece 4½ inches long to the end of each arm with brads, and from these suspend

Cut a Mast about 14 inches long and the same diameter as the hole in the spool, and stick it into spool D; then, 3 inches below the top of the mast, attach a spool with four horizontal arms, each 6 inches long, glued into holes bored in it. Attach a crosspiece that is 4½ inches long to the end of each arm with brads, and from these suspend

Cars made similar to those of the Ferris wheel, with cords. Set a small flag in a hole bored in the top of the mast and then run cords from the top of the mast out to the ends of the arm pieces.

Cars designed like those on the Ferris wheel, using cords. Place a small flag in a hole drilled in the top of the mast and then extend cords from the top of the mast to the ends of the arm pieces.

With this toy the cars cannot be swung out obliquely as on the large flying airships except by

With this toy, the cars can't be swung out at an angle like on the large flying airships, except by

Increasing the Speed of the Clockwork. This can be accomplished by removing one or two of the wheels of [Pg 104] the clockwork, but it is not advisable to take out more than one wheel in addition to those removed for the merry-go-round (Fig. 139) because the mainspring would require rewinding too often to make the toy enjoyable.

Increasing the Speed of the Clockwork. This can be done by taking out one or two of the gears of the clockwork, but it's not a good idea to remove more than one gear in addition to those taken out for the merry-go-round (Fig. 139) because the mainspring would need to be rewound too frequently to keep the toy fun. [Pg 104]

An Electric Motor can be belted to these toys as a substitute for the clockwork, if you own one and prefer to try it out.

An Electric Motor can be attached to these toys instead of using the clockwork, if you have one and want to give it a try.

The clockwork toys just described were invented by the author for his book "Handicraft for Handy Boys," and were the first designs, he believes, devised for home-made mechanical toys of this nature. No doubt you have noticed that manufacturers of the so-called "construction sets"—steel and wood strips supplied with bolts and screws for assembling—have used these very same forms of models to show what can be made with their outfits. But your Ferris wheel, merry-go-round, and aerostat, built as described in this chapter, with materials picked up at home, will be the equal of any that can be built, and you will have the satisfaction of knowing that you haven't required an expensive "construction set" for making them.

The clockwork toys just described were created by the author for his book "Handicraft for Handy Boys," and he believes they were the first designs made for homemade mechanical toys like these. You’ve probably noticed that the manufacturers of the so-called "construction sets"—steel and wood strips with bolts and screws for assembly—have used these same models to demonstrate what can be made with their kits. But your Ferris wheel, merry-go-round, and aerostat, built as explained in this chapter, using materials you find at home, will be just as good as any that can be constructed, and you'll feel great knowing you didn't need an expensive "construction set" to create them.

All sorts of toy vehicles can be operated by clockwork. Figure 160 shows

All kinds of toy vehicles can be run by a wind-up mechanism. Figure 160 shows

An Automobile, and Fig. 161 shows how the clockwork motor is mounted upon the chassis and belted to the driving wheel. The same scheme that was used for the cars of the toy railway described in Chapter VI will be followed in making

An Automobile, and Fig. 161 shows how the clockwork motor is attached to the chassis and connected to the driving wheel. The same approach used for the toy railway cars described in Chapter VI will be followed in making

The Frame of the automobile, as that is about the simplest way, and makes a light, easy-running vehicle.

The Frame of the car, since that’s the simplest approach, creates a lightweight, easy-to-drive vehicle.

Fig. 160.—The Car Completed.

Fig. 160.—The Finished Car.

Fig. 161.—The Framework.

[Pg 105]

Fig. 162.—Top View of Wooden Frame.

The bed will be cut of a different pattern, however, as will be seen in Fig. 162. Lay out the piece to the dimensions shown upon this drawing, and then cut it out, making a mortise in each end for the wheels to fit in. The spool wheels should be mounted in the same manner as those of the railway cars, for which see Fig. 80, Chapter VI, and the directions upon page 51. One end of spool A should be pivoted with a longer finishing nail than those used for the other pivots, so that when driven in place about half an inch will project beyond the frame. A small silk spool should be fastened upon this for a belt-wheel (see B, Fig. 162). The hole in one of these spools is about three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter, so, in order to make it fit tightly upon the nail, it is necessary to fill in around the nail with sealing-wax. To do this, turn the wooden frame upon its edge and place the spool over the nail, being careful to get the nail in the exact center of the hole. Then hold a stick of sealing-wax over the spool, and with a lighted match melt the end and allow it to drip into the [Pg 106] hole. When the hole has been partially filled, allow the wax to harden a little, and then press it down around the nail with the end of a match, being careful not to throw the spool out of center by doing so. The hole should then be filled to the top.

The bed will have a different design, as you will see in Fig. 162. Lay out the piece according to the dimensions shown in this drawing, and then cut it out, making a mortise at each end for the wheels to fit in. The spool wheels should be attached in the same way as those on the railway cars; see Fig. 80, Chapter VI, and the instructions in page 51. One end of spool A should be mounted with a longer finishing nail than the ones used for the other pivots, so that when it’s put in place, about half an inch will stick out beyond the frame. A small silk spool should be attached to this for a belt-wheel (see B, Fig. 162). The hole in one of these spools is about three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter, so to make it fit tightly on the nail, you need to fill around the nail with sealing-wax. To do this, turn the wooden frame on its side and place the spool over the nail, making sure the nail is centered in the hole. Then hold a stick of sealing-wax over the spool, light one end, and let it drip into the [Pg 106] hole. When the hole is partially filled, let the wax harden a bit, then press it down around the nail with the end of a match, being careful not to push the spool out of center. The hole should then be filled to the top.

We are now ready to prepare the clockwork for mounting upon the wooden frame. The works shown in Fig. 161 are from an alarm clock, but if you have a striking clock, or one with works a little different from those shown in the illustration, it does not make a bit of difference in the scheme for attaching the works. The three parts shown in the foreground of Fig. 161 must first be removed from the works. These will be recognized readily in any clock, as they are pivoted close together, and regulate the speed of the other wheels. When they have been removed, the mainspring will unwind rapidly. The frame of the works shown in the illustration is held together with nuts, so that in removing the wheels it was necessary to unscrew two of them, spring the frame open enough to let the wheels drop out, and then replace the nuts again in their former positions. If the frame of your clockwork is riveted together, the wheels will have to be broken out. A small silk spool, such as B (Fig. 162), should be fastened upon the small pivot which originally operated the clock's hands, for a belt-wheel. Lay the works upon a table with the face-side down, and, after centering the hole of the spool upon the pivot, fasten it in place with sealing-wax in the same manner as you attached spool B (Fig. 161).

We’re now ready to prepare the clock mechanism for installation onto the wooden frame. The parts shown in Fig. 161 come from an alarm clock, but if you have a striking clock or one that's slightly different from those in the illustration, it won’t affect how you attach the mechanism. First, remove the three parts shown up front in Fig. 161 from the mechanism. You’ll easily recognize these in any clock, as they’re closely positioned and control the speed of the other gears. Once you've removed them, the mainspring will unwind quickly. The framework of the mechanism in the illustration is held together with nuts, so when you take out the wheels, you'll need to unscrew two of them, slightly open the frame to let the wheels fall out, and then replace the nuts in their original spots. If your clock mechanism is riveted, you’ll have to break out the wheels. Attach a small silk spool, like B (Fig. 162), to the small pivot that originally moved the clock's hands, to act as a belt-wheel. Place the mechanism face-down on a table, center the hole of the spool over the pivot, and secure it with sealing wax just like you did with spool B (Fig. 161).

[Pg 107]

The works should now be attached to the wooden frame. Place them with the striker uppermost, near the edge of the frame, so that the small belt-wheels are in line with one another. Then bore a number of gimlet holes in the wooden frame and run copper wire through them, passing it around the posts of the clock-frame and twisting its ends until the works are firmly fastened in place.

The parts should now be attached to the wooden frame. Position them with the striker on top, close to the edge of the frame, ensuring that the small belt wheels are aligned. Next, drill several small holes in the wooden frame and thread copper wire through them, wrapping it around the posts of the clock frame and twisting the ends until the parts are securely fastened in place.

A rubber band about an eighth of an inch wide and long enough to reach from one belt-wheel to the other should be procured for

A rubber band that's about an eighth of an inch wide and long enough to stretch from one belt wheel to the other should be obtained for

The Belt. This should stretch just enough to cling upon the spools, as more than that would cause too much friction.

The Belt. This should stretch just enough to grip the spools, since more than that would create too much friction.

Before going any further with the construction of the automobile

Before moving forward with the construction of the automobile

Test the Machine, to be sure that it is in perfect running order. Wind up the mainspring, pressing a finger against one of the wheels to hold it in check until you are ready to start the machine. When properly made, the clockwork automobile should run a distance of from twenty to twenty-five feet upon a wooden floor, while about three-quarters of that distance should be covered upon a floor with a fairly smooth carpet.

Test the Machine to ensure it’s in perfect working order. Wind up the mainspring, using a finger to press against one of the wheels to keep it steady until you’re ready to start the machine. When made correctly, the clockwork car should travel between twenty and twenty-five feet on a wooden floor, while it should cover about three-quarters of that distance on a fairly smooth carpet.

The Cardboard Sides and other details of the automobile should now be made. The patterns for these have been so shown in Figs. 163 to 170 that they can easily be laid out to the proper shape and size by means of the process [Pg 108] of enlarging by squares described on page 175, Chapter XVII. White cardboard should be used upon which to draw these pieces, and the thinner it is the easier you will find it to work with.

The Cardboard Sides and other parts of the car should be made now. The patterns for these have been demonstrated in Figs. 163 to 170 so that you can easily outline them to the correct shape and size using the method of enlarging by squares described in page 175, Chapter XVII. You should use white cardboard to draw these pieces, and the thinner it is, the easier it will be to work with.

Figs. 163-170.—Patterns for the Automobile Touring-car.

Figs. 163-170.—Templates for the Car Touring Vehicle.

[Pg 109]

Fig. 171.—Chauffeur.

Fig. 171.—Driver.

Fig. 172.—Cardboard Side of Automobile.

Fig. 172.—Car's Cardboard Side.

First prepare the two sides, cutting them out by the pattern of Fig. 163. Then glue the bottom edge of each side to the edge of the wooden frame, cutting holes in the left side for the belt-wheels and projecting posts to run through (see Fig. 160 and A, B, C, D, and E, Fig. 172). The top to the front of the car should now be cut as shown in Fig. 173, the distance between the sides being measured to get the piece of proper dimensions. Bend the edges as in Fig. 173, and glue them to the inner surfaces of the side pieces as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 172. In the same way cut and glue a piece of cardboard between the side pieces at G and H [Pg 110] (Fig. 172) for the seat-backs. The bent edges of these pieces are shown by dotted lines in the illustration. Draw four

First, prepare the two sides by cutting them out according to the pattern of Fig. 163. Then, glue the bottom edge of each side to the edge of the wooden frame, making holes in the left side for the belt-wheels and projecting posts to pass through (see Fig. 160 and A, B, C, D, and E, Fig. 172). The top for the front of the car should now be cut as shown in Fig. 173, with the distance between the sides measured to ensure the piece is the right size. Bend the edges as shown in Fig. 173, and glue them to the inner surfaces of the side pieces as indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 172. Similarly, cut and glue a piece of cardboard between the side pieces at G and H [Pg 110] (Fig. 172) for the seat-backs. The bent edges of these pieces are illustrated by dotted lines. Draw four

Wheels as shown in Fig. 164, using a compass with which to describe the circles, and cut them out with a sharp knife. You can cut out between the spokes, if you wish, or leave them solid. Glue the wheels to the cardboard, placing their centers about as located at I and J, Fig. 172. Four

Wheels as shown in Fig. 164, using a compass to draw the circles, and cut them out with a sharp knife. You can cut out between the spokes if you like, or keep them solid. Glue the wheels to the cardboard, positioning their centers approximately at I and J, Fig. 172. Four

Mud-Guards should be cut like Fig. 165, with flaps made along one edge. Then bend these guards around the tops of the wheels, and, after applying glue to the flaps, press them against the cardboard side, holding your fingers upon the flaps until the glue has dried (see Fig. 160). The guards should be placed a little above the tops of the wheels. Cut four

Mud-Guards should be cut like Fig. 165, with flaps made along one edge. Then bend these guards around the tops of the wheels, and, after applying glue to the flaps, press them against the cardboard side, holding your fingers on the flaps until the glue has dried (see Fig. 160). The guards should be positioned a little above the tops of the wheels. Cut four

Lamps like Fig. 166 and glue end K of two upon the front of the automobile at L (Fig. 172) and one of the other two upon each side at M. These lamps are shown in position in the illustration of the completed automobile (Fig. 160). Draw and cut

Lamps like Fig. 166 and glue the end K of the two to the front of the car at L (Fig. 172) and attach one of the other two on each side at M. These lamps are positioned as shown in the illustration of the finished car (Fig. 160). Draw and cut.

Fig. 173.—The Hood.

Fig. 173.—The Hoodie.

The Steering-wheel similar to Fig. 167, and, after pivoting it to the end of a strip of cardboard with a pin as shown in Fig. 174, bend the lower end and glue it to the under side [Pg 111] of the cardboard top F at N (see Fig. 172, also Fig. 160). Make a

The Steering Wheel is like Fig. 167. After you pivot it to the end of a strip of cardboard using a pin as shown in Fig. 174, bend the lower end and glue it to the underside of the cardboard top F at N (see Fig. 172, also Fig. 160). Make a

Horn like Fig. 168 and glue it to the steering-wheel as shown in Fig. 174. A strip of cardboard about the size of that used for the upright of the steering-wheel should be cut for

Horn like Fig. 168 and attach it to the steering wheel as shown in Fig. 174. Cut a strip of cardboard about the same size as the one used for the upright of the steering wheel for

The Brake, and glued to the inside surface of the right side of the car at O (Fig. 172).

The Brake, and attached to the inside surface of the right side of the car at O (Fig. 172).

The Chauffeur should now be made. Cut his head and body the shape and size of Fig. 169, drawing the face upon each side with goggles over the eyes. Cut the arms in two pieces the shape of P and Q (Fig. 170), and then pivot P to Q at R and the end of Q to the shoulder of the body at S, using thread for fastening the pieces together. Paint the hat, coat, sleeves, and gloves a leather color, and the face flesh color. The body should then be fastened to the hammer of the clockworks with sealing-wax, as shown in Fig. 171, while the left hand should be glued to the edge of the steering-wheel and the right to the end of the brake (see Fig. 160). By thus attaching the body to the end of the hammer, and winding up the small spring, the chauffeur will shake violently when the auto runs across the floor, showing the vibrations of the machine in a greatly exaggerated and amusing manner.

The Chauffeur should now be created. Shape the head and body to fit Fig. 169, drawing the face on each side with goggles over the eyes. Cut the arms into two pieces shaped like P and Q (Fig. 170), then connect P to Q at R and the end of Q to the shoulder of the body at S, using thread to fasten the pieces together. Paint the hat, coat, sleeves, and gloves a leather color, and the face a flesh color. The body should then be secured to the hammer of the clock mechanism with sealing wax, as shown in Fig. 171, while the left hand should be glued to the edge of the steering wheel and the right to the end of the brake (see Fig. 160). By attaching the body to the end of the hammer this way and winding up the small spring, the chauffeur will shake violently when the car moves across the floor, showcasing the machine's vibrations in a highly exaggerated and entertaining way.

Fig. 174.—The Steering-wheel.

Fig. 174.—The Steering Wheel.

It is now only necessary to

[Pg 112]

Paint the Machine to complete it. The photograph (Fig. 160) shows where different colors are needed. The lamps, top, ends, and sides of the front portion of the car should be painted the color of brass, and the rest of the sides, with the exception of a strip along the bottom and the edge of the arms, should be painted vermilion. Paint the inside of the car and the edges of the seat-arms tan color, to represent leather upholstering. With black paint, or ink, stripe off the door and trimmings upon the sides and top of the machine, as shown in Figs. 160, 172, and 173. Blacken the brake and steering-wheel and the spokes and rims of the wheels. Along the bottom of each side glue a strip of cardboard for the running-boards.

Paint the Machine to finish it. The photograph (Fig. 160) shows where different colors are needed. The lamps, top, ends, and sides of the front part of the car should be painted brass, while the rest of the sides, except for a strip along the bottom and the edge of the arms, should be painted vermilion. Paint the inside of the car and the edges of the seat arms tan to represent leather upholstery. Use black paint or ink to outline the door and trim on the sides and top of the machine, as shown in Figs. 160, 172, and 173. Make the brake and steering wheel black, as well as the spokes and rims of the wheels. Glue a strip of cardboard along the bottom of each side for the running boards.

When you have tired of your touring-car, you can easily convert it into

When you’re done with your touring car, you can easily turn it into

An Automobile Delivery Wagon, such as illustrated in Fig. 175. To make this you will require the same frame as that used for the touring-car, with the clockworks and belt-wheels attached in the same manner. If you have made the touring-car, remove the cardboard sides from its wooden frame, separating the cardboard from the wood carefully so you can put the machine together again when you wish. If you haven't made this automobile, you will find the details for the construction of the frame in Figs. 161 and 162, and the manner of performing the work described on pages 104 to 107.

An Automobile Delivery Wagon, as shown in Fig. 175. To build this, you'll need the same frame as the touring car, with the clockworks and belt wheels attached in the same way. If you've already made the touring car, take off the cardboard sides from its wooden frame, being careful to separate the cardboard from the wood so you can reassemble the machine later when you want. If you haven't built this automobile, you can find the details for constructing the frame in Figs. 161 and 162, with instructions on how to do the work on pages 104 to 107.

[Pg 113]

Fig. 175.—An Automobile Delivery Wagon.

Fig. 175.—A Delivery Van.

The Cardboard Sides are much easier to prepare than those for the touring-car, as they are straight and require but little cutting. The outline for these is shown in Fig. 175, surrounding the drawing of the completed wagon. Lay out one side upon a piece of cardboard, using the dimensions given upon the drawing, and then place it upon a board and cut it out with your knife. Using this as a pattern, place it upon another piece of cardboard and run a pencil around its edges, thus marking out the second side. In cutting out the latter piece, run your knife a little inside of the line in order to allow for the increase in size caused by marking it out with the first cardboard side. Having prepared the two sides, draw panels upon them in some such form as shown in the illustration, separating [Pg 114] them with three lines. Draw a small window, with its top slightly arched, near the front edge of each side, and cut an opening for it (see illustration).

The Cardboard Sides are much easier to make than those for the touring car, since they are straight and need minimal cutting. The outline for these is shown in Fig. 175, surrounding the drawing of the completed wagon. Lay out one side on a piece of cardboard, using the dimensions from the drawing, then place it on a board and cut it out with your knife. Use this as a pattern to trace onto another piece of cardboard and draw around its edges to mark out the second side. When cutting out this piece, run your knife slightly inside the line to account for the extra size from marking it out with the first cardboard side. Once you’ve prepared the two sides, draw panels on them in a style similar to the illustration, separating them with three lines. Draw a small window with a slightly arched top near the front edge of each side, and cut an opening for it (see illustration).

Glue the sides to the edges of the truck in the same manner as those of the touring-car were done, piercing holes for the posts of the clockwork to fit in, and openings for the belt-wheels to project through, in the left side. Cut a piece of cardboard for the back of the wagon, fit it between the sides, and fasten it in place by gluing a number of linen strips to it and the sides upon the inner or unexposed surfaces. Then cut a piece of cardboard for the roof, making it about two inches longer than the sides, to give it the proper projection over the front of the wagon. Fasten this piece in position in the same manner as you fastened the back of the wagon.

Glue the sides to the edges of the truck just like you did with the touring car, making holes for the posts of the clockwork to fit into and openings for the belt-wheels to stick out on the left side. Cut a piece of cardboard for the back of the wagon, slide it between the sides, and secure it by gluing a few strips of fabric to it and the sides on the inside surfaces. Then cut a piece of cardboard for the roof, making it about two inches longer than the sides to extend over the front of the wagon. Attach this piece in the same way you secured the back of the wagon.

Make the floor and footboard for the wagon out of a piece of cardboard bent as shown in Fig. 175, and fasten it across the top edges of the projecting portions of the sides with linen strips. Cut a strip for a seat, and fit it between the sides an inch and one-half above the floor.

Make the floor and footboard for the wagon using a piece of cardboard bent as shown in Fig. 175, and attach it across the top edges of the protruding parts of the sides with linen strips. Cut a strip for a seat and place it between the sides an inch and a half above the floor.

The Wheels of an automobile wagon contain fourteen spokes, but as you have the pattern for the touring-car wheels of twelve spokes, you can just as well use it in making the wagon wheels. They should be mounted upon the sides of the wagon, a trifle above the bottoms of the spool wheels, as shown in the illustration, so they will not touch the carpet when the machine is operated.

The Wheels of a car have fourteen spokes, but since you have the design for the touring car wheels with twelve spokes, you can use that for making the wagon wheels. They should be attached to the sides of the wagon, slightly above the bottoms of the spool wheels, as shown in the illustration, so they won't touch the carpet when the machine is in use.

All Other Portions of the wagon should be made of the [Pg 115] same patterns given for the touring-car, viz. the chauffeur (Figs. 169 and 170), the steering-wheel (Figs. 167 and 174), the brake (Fig. 160), and the lamps (Fig. 166). As the legs of the chauffeur will show, it will be necessary to cut a pair out of cardboard (the drawing shows the shape clearly enough to work by) and fasten them to his body. Fasten the chauffeur upon the seat and glue his left hand to the steering-wheel, placing the latter in front of him, as shown in the drawing. Stick the lower end of the cardboard upright of the steering-wheel upon a pin run through the wagon floor from the under side. Glue the upper end of the brake to the chauffeur's hand and the lower end to the side of the wagon.

All Other Portions of the wagon should be made using the same designs provided for the touring car, including the driver (Figs. 169 and 170), the steering wheel (Figs. 167 and 174), the brake (Fig. 160), and the lamps (Fig. 166). Since the legs of the driver will be visible, you'll need to cut out a pair from cardboard (the drawing clearly shows the shape to follow) and attach them to his body. Secure the driver in the seat and glue his left hand to the steering wheel, positioning it in front of him as shown in the drawing. Attach the lower end of the cardboard upright of the steering wheel to a pin inserted through the wagon floor from underneath. Glue the upper end of the brake to the driver’s hand and the lower end to the side of the wagon.

Paint the Wagon with water colors, making the sides, end, and roof olive green, the steering-wheel, brake, and spokes of wheels black, and the lamps yellow or the color of brass. In painting the sides show the battery compartments upon them below what would properly be the bottom of the wagon (see illustration). Leave the cardboard white below this box, as it represents no portion of the machine, but is necessarily brought down so far to conceal the wooden frame. It will give the machine a more finished appearance if, after painting, you go over it with black paint and a fine brush and stripe the panels upon the sides, following the lines which you drew upon them with a pencil. Letter the word "Delivery" upon the center panel of each side, and the firm name in the small panel between the lamp and window.

Paint the Wagon with watercolors, using olive green for the sides, end, and roof. Paint the steering wheel, brake, and spokes of the wheels black, and the lamps yellow or brass-colored. When painting the sides, include the battery compartments below where the bottom of the wagon would be (see illustration). Keep the cardboard white below this section, as it doesn't represent any part of the machine but is lowered to hide the wooden frame. For a more polished look, after painting, go over it with black paint and a fine brush to stripe the panels on the sides, following the pencil lines you drew. Write the word "Delivery" on the center panel of each side, and the company name in the small panel between the lamp and window.

[Pg 116]

By attaching a set of clockworks in the same manner as described for the automobiles, you can make

By attaching a set of clockworks just like how it's described for cars, you can make

A Clockwork Railway, constructing the cars similar to the street car shown in Fig. 84, Chapter VI, and using the schemes in the same chapter for the tracks and depots.

A Clockwork Railway, building the cars like the streetcar shown in Fig. 84, Chapter VI, and utilizing the plans in that chapter for the tracks and depots.

Each car should be provided with a clockwork motor, because a single clockwork is not strong enough to pull more than one car. Let me know how you succeed in building a clockwork railway.

Each car should have its own clockwork motor because a single clockwork isn't strong enough to pull more than one car. Let me know how it goes with building a clockwork railway.

[Pg 117]

CHAPTER XI

HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS

An entire volume might be filled with plans for electrical toys and yet not exhaust the innumerable forms that are within the ability of a boy to construct. There is room in this chapter for only a few, and I have selected simple ideas, those that can be carried out by a boy having no knowledge of working with electricity, with materials that can be obtained at an expenditure of little or nothing. Thus every boy will be able to make these electrical toys.

An entire book could be filled with designs for electrical toys and still not cover all the countless types a boy could create. In this chapter, there’s space for only a few examples, and I’ve picked simple ideas that any boy can build without needing prior knowledge of electricity, using materials that are cheap or even free. This way, every boy will be able to make these electrical toys.

The Electro-magnet Derrick shown in Fig. 176 will hoist nails and other small pieces of hardware from the floor to a table top, and as the boom, or arm, can be swung from side to side, and raised and lowered, loads can be moved from place to place in the same way as with large derricks. The toy derrick may be used for loading and unloading toy wagons, carts, and trains of cars, provided, of course, you use iron or steel of some sort for your loads. It is easy enough to get nails, brads, tacks, and odd pieces of hardware for the purpose. The model from which Fig. 176 was made has lifted a bunch of two hundred and eighty-four brads ³/₈ inch long. By using smaller brads, or tacks, a much larger number could be lifted.

The Electro-magnet Derrick shown in Fig. 176 will lift nails and other small hardware from the floor to a tabletop. Since the boom, or arm, can swing side to side and move up and down, it can transport loads just like large derricks do. The toy derrick can be used to load and unload toy wagons, carts, and train cars, as long as you use iron or steel for your loads. It's easy to find nails, brads, tacks, and various pieces of hardware for this purpose. The model from which Fig. 176 was made has lifted a batch of two hundred and eighty-four brads that are ³/₈ inch long. By using smaller brads or tacks, you could lift many more.

[Pg 118]

The first part of the toy to construct is

The first part of the toy to build is

The Electro-magnet. The difference between an electro-magnet and the toy variety of horse-shoe magnet with which every boy is familiar, is that the electro-magnet retains its magnetism only so long as an electric current is passing around it, while the steel magnet retains its influence permanently, after being magnetized, unless it happens to be demagnetized by subjection to heat, or in some other way.

The Electro-magnet. The difference between an electro-magnet and the toy horse-shoe magnet that every boy knows is that the electro-magnet keeps its magnetism only while an electric current is flowing through it, whereas the steel magnet holds onto its magnetic properties permanently after being magnetized, unless it gets demagnetized by heat or some other method.

Fig. 176.—An Electro-magnet Derrick.

Fig. 176.—An Electromagnetic Derrick.

Figures 177 to 179 show the details for making a simple home-made electro-magnet.

Figures 177 to 179 provide the details for creating a simple homemade electromagnet.

[Pg 119]

An electro-magnet consists of a center core of soft iron, wrapped with a coil of insulated wire. When an electric current passes over a wire, a magnetic field is formed around the wire; and when several turns of insulated wire are wrapped about a soft iron core, the magnetic fields of all the turns of the coil, or helix, combine, forming a very strong magnetic field which strongly magnetizes the iron core. As I have said before, this magnet loses its magnetic influence the instant the current ceases to pass through the surrounding coil of wire.

An electromagnet is made up of a soft iron core that is wrapped in a coil of insulated wire. When an electric current flows through the wire, it creates a magnetic field around it; and when multiple turns of insulated wire are wrapped around the soft iron core, the magnetic fields from all the turns in the coil, or helix, combine to create a very strong magnetic field that effectively magnetizes the iron core. As I mentioned earlier, this magnet loses its magnetic power the moment the current stops flowing through the surrounding coil of wire.

Figs. 177-179.—The Electro-magnet.

Figs. 177-179.—The Electromagnet.

You will need a machine-bolt or carriage-bolt 2½ or 3 inches long, and ¼ inch in diameter, for the core of the magnet, some insulated electric-bell wire for the coil, and a piece of heavy cardboard. Cut three washers of a trifle larger diameter than the bolt-head, out of the piece of cardboard (Fig. 178), and slip these over the bolt as shown [Pg 120] in Fig. 179—one at the bolt-head end, the other two at the nut end; then screw the nut on to the end of the bolt.

You’ll need a machine bolt or carriage bolt that’s 2½ or 3 inches long and ¼ inch in diameter for the core of the magnet, some insulated electric bell wire for the coil, and a piece of heavy cardboard. Cut three washers that are slightly larger in diameter than the bolt head from the cardboard (Fig. 178), and slide these over the bolt as shown [Pg 120] in Fig. 179—one at the bolt head end and the other two at the nut end; then screw the nut onto the end of the bolt.

Fig. 180.—How the Electro-magnet is Connected up.

Fig. 180.—How the Electromagnet is Connected.

Before starting to wind the insulated wire upon the bolt, pierce two holes through the inner cardboard washer of the two at the nut end. Then stick the end of the wire through one of these holes, and pull a length of 4 or 5 inches of the wire out between the two washers. Starting at this end of the bolt, then, wind the wire around the bolt, keeping the turns even and each turn pressed close against the preceding turn. When the washer at the head end of the bolt has been reached, wind back to the starting point; then wind back to the washer at the head a second time, and again back to the starting point; and so on until six or eight layers of wire have been wound in place. An even number of layers will bring the free end of the wire back to the double-washer end. Slip this end through the second hole in the inner washer, and bring it out between the two washers, as you did the first end. Then screw the bolt-nut tight against the washers, to hold the wire ends in place (Fig. 177). The outer cardboard washer [Pg 121] will prevent the nut from chafing the insulation on the wire ends.

Before you start wrapping the insulated wire around the bolt, make two holes in the inner cardboard washer at the nut end. Then, push one end of the wire through one of these holes and pull out 4 to 5 inches of wire between the two washers. From this end of the bolt, start winding the wire around it, making sure the turns are even and each one is pressed tight against the previous turn. When you reach the washer at the head end of the bolt, wind back to the starting point; then wind back to the washer at the head a second time, and again back to the starting point; repeat this until you've wound six to eight layers of wire. An even number of layers will bring the free end of the wire back to the double-washer end. Slip this end through the second hole in the inner washer and bring it out between the two washers, just like you did with the first end. Then, tighten the bolt-nut against the washers to secure the wire ends in place (Fig. 177). The outer cardboard washer will protect the insulation on the wire ends from the nut rubbing against it.

Now connect the ends of the coil to the binding-posts of a battery cell, and you will be surprised to find what a strong magnet the head of the bolt core has become.

Now connect the ends of the coil to the binding posts of a battery cell, and you'll be amazed at how strong the magnet has become at the head of the bolt core.

One end of the magnet coil should be connected to a dry-cell, and the other to a switch; and another wire should connect the switch with the dry-cell (Fig. 180).

One end of the magnet coil should be connected to a battery, and the other to a switch; and another wire should connect the switch to the battery (Fig. 180).

A Home-made Switch that is easily made is shown in Fig. 181. Cut strips A, B, and C (Fig. 182) from a tomato can. Tack the turned up ends of A to a wooden knob (D). This forms the switch lever. Strips B and C, folded in half, and punched near the ends, form the binding-post plates.

A Homemade Switch that is easy to make is shown in Fig. 181. Cut strips A, B, and C (Fig. 182) from a tomato can. Attach the turned-up ends of A to a wooden knob (D). This creates the switch lever. Strips B and C, folded in half and punched near the ends, act as the binding-post plates.

Fig. 181.—A Home-made Switch.
Fig. 182.—Details of Switch.

Fig. 181.—A DIY Switch.
Fig. 182.—Switch Details.

Figures 181 and 182 show how to mount the lever and binding-post plates upon the switch base. Pivot lever A [Pg 122] with a small screw passed through a hole punched near its end, and through the hole near the folded end of plate C. Fasten plate B with a rug-tack (F) so the lever will come in contact with it. Screw-eyes E form the binding-posts.

Figures 181 and 182 demonstrate how to attach the lever and binding-post plates to the switch base. Pivot lever A [Pg 122] using a small screw that goes through a hole punched near its end and through the hole near the folded end of plate C. Secure plate B with a rug-tack (F) so that the lever will touch it. Screw-eyes E serve as the binding-posts.

Fig. 183.—Detail of Mast.
Fig. 184.—Detail of Pulley.
Fig. 185.—Detail of Boom.

Fig. 183.—Mast detail.
Fig. 184.—Pulley detail.
Fig. 185.—Boom detail.

Instead of using a separate base, the switch can be mounted as shown in Fig. 176, upon the base of

Instead of using a separate base, the switch can be mounted as shown in Fig. 176, on the base of

The Derrick. Cut the base about 8 inches wide and 10 inches long (A, Fig. 176). The mast (B) is a piece of broom-handle or curtain-pole 16 inches long, and fits loosely in a hole bored in the base. Figure 183 shows a detail of the mast. The pulley upon its upper end (C) is made of two spool-ends nailed together (Fig. 184), and it turns upon the axle D, which slips through holes in the plates E nailed to the end of the mast. The lever F sticks in a hole in the mast, close to the platform. This is used to swing the boom from side to side. Screw-eye G is placed several inches above F to serve the purpose of a pulley to guide the hoisting cables.

The Derrick. Cut the base about 8 inches wide and 10 inches long (A, Fig. 176). The mast (B) is a piece of broomstick or curtain pole that is 16 inches long and fits loosely in a hole drilled in the base. Figure 183 shows a detail of the mast. The pulley at its top end (C) is made from two spool ends nailed together (Fig. 184), and it rotates on the axle D, which passes through holes in the plates E fastened to the end of the mast. The lever F fits into a hole in the mast, near the platform. This lever is used to swing the boom from side to side. Screw-eye G is positioned several inches above F to act as a pulley for guiding the hoisting cables.

[Pg 123]

Figure 185 shows a detail of the boom. Cut the side sticks H 18 inches long, and fasten between them the separators I, which should be just long enough to allow clearance for the spool pulley J. The pulley is mounted on the axle K. Screw the lower ends of the boom to the mast, at a point 2½ inches above the base.

Figure 185 shows a detail of the boom. Cut the side sticks H to 18 inches in length, and attach the separators I between them, making sure they are just long enough to provide space for the spool pulley J. The pulley is attached to the axle K. Fasten the lower ends of the boom to the mast, positioned 2½ inches above the base.

The Windlass for raising the derrick boom, and for hoisting the loads, is shown in detail in Fig. 186. Bore a hole through upright L for the axle M to stick through, and cut axle M enough smaller than the spool drums N so they will turn easily. Fasten a crank and handle to one end of each spool, and drive a brad through each end of the axle to prevent the drums from sliding off. Cut four notches in the inner flange of each spool, as shown, and pivot the catches O to the post L, in the positions indicated, so they may be thrown into the notches to lock the windlass (Fig. 176).

The Windlass for lifting the derrick boom and hoisting loads is detailed in Fig. 186. Drill a hole through the upright L for the axle M to pass through, and make axle M a bit smaller than the spool drums N so they can rotate smoothly. Attach a crank and handle to one end of each spool, and drive a brad through each end of the axle to keep the drums from sliding off. Cut four notches into the inner flange of each spool, as shown, and pivot the catches O to the post L in the indicated positions so they can be locked into the notches to secure the windlass (Fig. 176).

Fig. 186.—Detail of Derrick Windlass.

The Hoisting Cables should be made of strong cord. Fasten one end of the cable for raising the boom to a nail (P, Fig. 176), and run this cord up and over the mast pulley, then down through screw-eye G and over to one drum; tie it securely to the drum so it will not slip around. The other cable should be fastened between the nut and [Pg 124] washer of the magnet, as shown in Fig. 180, run up and over the boom pulley J, then through screw-eye G, and tied to the second drum.

The Hoisting Cables should be made of strong cord. Attach one end of the cable to a nail (P, Fig. 176), and run this cord up and over the mast pulley, then down through screw-eye G and across to one drum; tie it securely to the drum so it won't slip. The other cable should be attached between the nut and [Pg 124] washer of the magnet, as shown in Fig. 180, run up and over the boom pulley J, then through screw-eye G, and tied to the second drum.

Figure 176 shows how the dry-cell may be strapped to the base board in front of the mast, and how the wires that connect the electro-magnet, switch, and cell should be twisted around the hoisting cable, part way, and the remainder of their length allowed to hang. Be sure to cut the wires long enough to reach from a table-top down to the floor. Use flexible wire if you can get it.

Figure 176 shows how to strap the dry-cell to the baseboard in front of the mast, and how to twist the wires that connect the electromagnet, switch, and cell around the hoisting cable for part of the length while allowing the rest to hang. Make sure to cut the wires long enough to reach from a tabletop down to the floor. Use flexible wire if possible.

By mounting the base upon spool wheels, your derrick can be moved along a table-top. Spool-ends may be used for the wheels, and can either be screwed to the edge of the base, or be fastened upon axles as the wheels of the Electric Motor Truck are fastened (Figs. 203 and 208).

By attaching the base to spool wheels, you can move your derrick along a tabletop. The spool ends can serve as the wheels and can either be screwed to the edge of the base or attached to axles like the wheels on the Electric Motor Truck (Figs. 203 and 208).

How the Derrick Works. It is probably unnecessary to explain that a load is picked up by throwing over the switch lever to the contact point and closing the circuit, and that it is dropped by throwing off the switch lever and opening the circuit—which causes the electro-magnet to lose its magnetism.

How the Derrick Works. It’s probably not needed to explain that a load is picked up by flipping the switch lever to the contact point and closing the circuit, and that it is dropped by turning off the switch lever and opening the circuit—which makes the electro-magnet lose its magnetism.

A Toy Shocking Machine..The little shocking machine shown in Fig. 187 is a harmless toy with which you can have an endless amount of fun when entertaining friends. The shock it produces is not severe, but strong enough to make your friend's arm and wrist muscles twitch, and perhaps cause him to dance. Large shocking coils contract the muscles to such an extent that it is impossible to let go of the metal grips until the current has been shut off, but in our small shocking machine the handles can be dropped the instant the person holding them wishes to do so.

A Toy Shocking Machine.The little shocking machine shown in Fig. 187 is a harmless toy that can provide endless fun while entertaining friends. The shock it delivers isn't severe, but it's strong enough to make your friend's arm and wrist muscles twitch, and maybe even get them to dance. Large shocking coils work the muscles to such an extent that it becomes impossible to release the metal grips until the current is turned off, but with our small shocking machine, the handles can be dropped as soon as the person holding them wants to let go.

[Pg 125]

Fig. 187.—Detail of the Toy Shocking Machine.

[Pg 126]

The shocking machine consists of an induction-coil, an interrupter, and a pair of handles, all of which are easy for a boy to make, and a wet or dry battery of one or two cells to furnish the current.

The shocking machine includes an induction coil, an interrupter, and a pair of handles, which are simple enough for a kid to make, along with a wet or dry battery of one or two cells to provide the current.

Figs. 188-191.—Details of Induction-coil.

Figs. 188-191.—Induction-coil details.

The Induction-coil is the first part to make. This is shown in detail in Figs. 188 to 191. The coil has windings of two sizes of wire upon an iron core. For the core buy a 5/16-inch carriage-bolt 2½ inches long, and for the wire coils get some No. 20- or 24-gauge electric-bell insulated copper wire, and some No. 30-gauge insulated magnet-wire. To keep the wire from slipping off the ends of the bolt core, cut two cardboard ends about 1½ inches in [Pg 127] diameter. Slip one of these on to the bolt next to the head, and the other one next to the nut, as shown in Fig. 188.

The Induction Coil is the first component you need to create. Details are provided in Figs. 188 to 191. The coil features windings made from two different sizes of wire on an iron core. For the core, purchase a 5/16-inch carriage bolt that is 2½ inches long. For the wire coils, get some No. 20- or 24-gauge insulated copper wire, along with some No. 30-gauge insulated magnet wire. To prevent the wire from slipping off the ends of the bolt core, cut two cardboard disks about 1½ inches in diameter. Slide one disk onto the bolt next to the head, and the other one next to the nut, as illustrated in Fig. 188. [Pg 127]

Three layers of the coarse wire should be wound on first, for

The Primary-coil. Pierce a hole through one cardboard end, stick the wire through it, and allow about 5 inches to project upon the outside; then commence winding the wire upon the core, placing each turn close to the preceding turn. When the opposite end of the bolt has been reached, wind back to the starting point, then work back to the other end again. There will be in the neighborhood of 175 turns in the three layers. Cut off the wire so there will be a 5-inch projection, and stick the projecting end through a hole in the cardboard end. This completes the primary-coil (Fig. 189).

The Primary-coil. Make a hole in one end of the cardboard, stick the wire through it, and leave about 5 inches sticking out on the outside; then start wrapping the wire around the core, keeping each turn close to the previous one. When you reach the other end of the bolt, wrap back to the starting point, then go back to the other end again. You should have about 175 turns across the three layers. Cut the wire, leaving a 5-inch piece sticking out, and push the end through a hole in the cardboard end. This completes the primary-coil (Fig. 189).

Before winding the small wire on top of the primary-coil, to form

Before wrapping the small wire around the top of the primary coil, to create

The Secondary-Coil, wrap the primary-coil with a layer of bicycle tape, or glue several layers of paper around the coil. Then wind on the small wire as you did the coarser wire, being very careful to get it on evenly and smoothly. Wind eleven layers on the coil, and run the end of the eleventh layer out through the cardboard end (Fig. 190). There should be about 100 turns of this wire to the layer, or 1100 turns in all.

The Secondary-Coil, wrap the primary coil with a layer of bicycle tape, or glue several layers of paper around the coil. Then wind on the small wire just like you did with the thicker wire, making sure to apply it evenly and smoothly. Wind eleven layers onto the coil, and pull the end of the eleventh layer through the cardboard end (Fig. 190). There should be about 100 turns of this wire per layer, totaling 1100 turns overall.

A crank arrangement can be rigged up to make the winding easier, but with patience, and by doing the work slowly, the wire can be wound almost as well by hand. [Pg 128] It is difficult to keep track of each preceding turn, while winding, because of the fineness of the wire, and on this account it is a good scheme to coat each layer with bluing after it has been wound on, so that each turn of the following layer will show plainly against the stained layer beneath it. Fig. 190 shows the complete induction-coil.

A crank setup can be put together to make winding easier, but with some patience and by working slowly, you can almost do it as well by hand. [Pg 128] It's hard to keep track of each previous turn while winding because the wire is so fine, so it's a good idea to coat each layer with bluing after winding it on. This way, each turn of the next layer will stand out clearly against the stained layer underneath. Fig. 190 shows the complete induction coil.

Cut a base block 5 inches wide and 7 inches long, bevel the top edges to give it a trim appearance, and mount the induction-coil to one side of the center (Fig. 187), strapping it in place by means of two tin straps similar to that shown in Fig. 191, cut from a tin can.

Cut a base block that is 5 inches wide and 7 inches long, angle the top edges to make it look neat, and attach the induction coil to one side of the center (Fig. 187), securing it with two metal straps like the ones shown in Fig. 191, cut from a tin can.

The projecting ends of the primary-coil connect with the battery, while the two ends of the secondary-coil connect with the handles. Make three binding-post plates out of folded pieces of tin, similar to plates B and C, in Fig. 182. Tack two of these to the end of the base and connect the secondary-coil wires to them (Fig. 187), and tack the third near one end of the induction-coil and connect one primary-coil wire to it (Fig. 187).

The sticking out ends of the primary coil connect to the battery, while the two ends of the secondary coil connect to the handles. Make three binding-post plates from folded pieces of tin, like plates B and C, in Fig. 182. Attach two of these to the end of the base and connect the secondary coil wires to them (Fig. 187), and attach the third near one end of the induction coil and connect one primary coil wire to it (Fig. 187).

For the Handles take two pieces of broom-handle 3½ inches long, and cover each with a piece of tin (Fig. 192). The pattern for the tin covering (Fig. 193) shows how tabs are prepared on the ends and holes punched through them for connecting with the induction-coil. The connecting wires should be 5 or 6 feet long. Flexible wire is better than bell-wire for these, because it is more easily handled in passing the handles around. Tack the tin covering to the pieces of broom-handle.

For the Handles take two pieces of broom handle that are 3½ inches long and cover each one with a piece of tin (Fig. 192). The pattern for the tin covering (Fig. 193) shows how to prepare tabs on the ends and punch holes through them for connecting to the induction coil. The connecting wires should be 5 or 6 feet long. Flexible wire is better than bell wire for this, as it is easier to manage when passing the handles around. Attach the tin covering to the broom handles with tacks.

[Pg 129]

Figs. 192 and 193.—Details of Shocking-coil Handles.

Figs. 192 and 193.—Details of Shock Coil Handles.

The purpose of the induction-coil is to raise the voltage of the battery. The flow of current must be an interrupted one, in order to shock, and therefore

The purpose of the induction coil is to increase the battery's voltage. The current flow needs to be interrupted to create a shock, and therefore

An Interrupter must be inserted between the battery and one of the wires leading to the primary-coil of the induction-coil. There are several ways to construct an interrupter, but the scheme which I have invented for the model of this shocking-machine (Fig. 187) serves the purpose nicely, and is a neat appearing little piece of apparatus. This interrupter is easily constructed as you will see by the working details shown in Figs. 194 to 198.

An Interrupter needs to be placed between the battery and one of the wires going to the primary coil of the induction coil. There are a few different ways to make an interrupter, but the design I've created for this model of the shocking machine (Fig. 187) works well and looks tidy. This interrupter is simple to put together, as you'll see in the working details provided in Figs. 194 to 198.

Fig. 194.—Interrupter for Shocking-coil.

Fig. 194.—Interrupter for Shock Coil.

[Pg 130]

Cut the base block A 1½ inches wide and 2½ inches long. Make the shaft B 2¾ inches long and of a diameter equal to the hole in a thread spool; and prepare the crank C to fit on the end, and drive a brad into it for a handle. Fasten the crank to the shaft with glue, or by driving a small brad through the two. The shaft supports D should be prepared as shown in Fig. 196, 1¼ inches wide across the bottom, ⁵/₈ inch wide at the top, and 1¾ inches high. Bore a hole through each, a little below the top, and large enough so the shaft will turn easily, and fasten these supports with brads to the sides of base A. Drive eight brads into a thread spool, spacing them equidistant from one another, and mount this spool upon the shaft (E, Fig. 194), first slipping the shaft through one support, then through the spool, and then through the other support. Drive the spool brads a trifle into the shaft to hold the spool in position.

Cut the base block A 1½ inches wide and 2½ inches long. Make the shaft B 2¾ inches long with a diameter that matches the hole in a thread spool; then prepare the crank C to fit on the end and drive a brad into it for a handle. Secure the crank to the shaft using glue or by driving a small brad through both. The shaft supports D should be made as shown in Fig. 196, 1¼ inches wide at the bottom, ⁵/₈ inch wide at the top, and 1¾ inches tall. Drill a hole through each support, slightly below the top, that is large enough for the shaft to turn easily, and attach these supports with brads to the sides of base A. Drive eight brads into a thread spool, spacing them evenly apart, and place this spool onto the shaft (E, Fig. 194), first slipping the shaft through one support, then through the spool, and then through the other support. Drive the spool brads just slightly into the shaft to keep the spool in place.

The projecting arm F (Fig. 194) is a strip of tin cut from a can, and must be long enough so each nail-head will strike its end when spool E is revolved. Drive a nail into base A, at G, and, after bending strip F as shown in Fig. 198, fasten it with brads upon the top of an upright made similar to H (Fig. 197), and nail this upright to the end of base A. The upper end of strip F must be bent so it will bear down upon the head of nail G.

The projecting arm F (Fig. 194) is a strip of tin cut from a can and needs to be long enough so that each nail head strikes its end when spool E is turned. Drive a nail into base A at G, and after bending strip F as shown in Fig. 198, secure it with brads on top of an upright made similarly to H (Fig. 197), then nail this upright to the end of base A. The upper end of strip F should be bent to press down on the head of nail G.

The wire from the primary-coil which is as yet not connected should be attached to nail G, and one battery wire should be connected to a binding-post plate I fastened to [Pg 131] the lower end of strip F. Figure 198 shows how the binding-post plate is made out of a doubled piece of tin, with a hole punched through it for a small binding-screw.

The wire from the primary coil that hasn't been connected yet should be attached to nail G, and one battery wire should be connected to a binding-post plate I attached to the lower end of strip F. Figure 198 illustrates how the binding-post plate is created from a doubled piece of tin, with a hole punched through it for a small binding screw.

This completes the interrupter. Mount it beside the induction-coil upon the base block, and connect it with the battery and the induction-coil, as shown in Fig. 187. Connect the battery cells in series. Two cells will be enough.

This finishes the interrupter. Install it next to the induction coil on the base block, and connect it to the battery and the induction coil, as shown in Fig. 187. Connect the battery cells in series. Two cells will be sufficient.

Figs. 195-198.—Details of Interrupter.

Figs. 195-198.—Interrupter Details.

How the Interrupter Works. When you turn the crank of the interrupter, each nail in spool E raises the end of strip F, in passing it, thus breaking the electrical contact between it and the head of nail G. If the strip has been bent properly, it will spring back into contact with the head of nail G, and each time the contact is made, the person holding the handles will receive a shock. The strength of the current can be regulated somewhat by the speed with which the interrupter crank is turned. The shocks are stronger and more distinct when the crank is turned slowly.

How the Interrupter Works. When you turn the crank of the interrupter, each nail in spool E lifts the end of strip F as it passes by, breaking the electrical contact between it and the head of nail G. If the strip is bent correctly, it will snap back into contact with the head of nail G, and each time the contact is made, the person holding the handles will feel a shock. You can adjust the strength of the current somewhat by changing the speed at which you turn the interrupter crank. The shocks are stronger and more pronounced when the crank is turned slowly.

[Pg 132]

Home-made electrical toys of a light construction are easily operated by a toy motor, when the motor and battery cell are not carried by the toy; but when both are transported, as in the case of a wagon, the construction must be very carefully worked out, or the motor will not be powerful enough to drive the wheels.

Home-made electric toys with a light design can be easily powered by a toy motor, especially when the motor and battery aren't part of the toy. However, when both are included, like in a wagon, the design needs to be carefully considered, or the motor won't be strong enough to turn the wheels.

Fig. 199.—A Toy Electric Motor Truck.

Fig. 199.—An Electric Toy Truck.

The Toy Electric Motor Truck shown in Fig. 199 is of light construction, the axle bearings produce very little friction, and the battery is light and of a powerful type.

The Toy Electric Motor Truck shown in Fig. 199 is lightweight, the axle bearings create very little friction, and the battery is both light and powerful.

Get an oblong shaped cigar-box for the bed and sides of the truck, several large thread spools for wheels and pulleys, two small silk-thread spools, four lead-pencils, or sticks whittled perfectly round and ¼ inch in diameter, for axles, [Pg 133] belt-shaft, and steering-wheel post, and six screw-eyes 5/16 inch in diameter for the bearings.

Get an oblong-shaped cigar box for the bed and sides of the truck, several large thread spools for wheels and pulleys, two small silk-thread spools, four perfectly round lead pencils or sticks about ¼ inch in diameter for axles, [Pg 133] belt-shaft, and steering-wheel post, and six screw eyes that are 5/16 inch in diameter for the bearings.

First, place the cigar-box in a wash-boiler or wash-tub of hot water, and allow it to remain there until the paper labels have soaked off or loosened sufficiently so they can be scraped off with a knife.

First, put the cigar box in a wash boiler or wash tub filled with hot water, and let it sit there until the paper labels have soaked off or loosened enough to be scraped off with a knife.

Fig. 200.—Top view of Electric Motor Truck.

Then, after the box has thoroughly dried, cut the two strips A (Fig. 208), and fasten them to the bottom, one at each side. Screw the screw-eye axle bearings into these strips. Place them at equal distances from the ends of the strips.

Then, after the box has completely dried, cut the two strips A (Fig. 208), and attach them to the bottom, one on each side. Screw the screw-eye axle bearings into these strips, placing them at equal distances from the ends of the strips.

The Wheels are made from the flange ends of the large spools. Figure 202 shows the front pencil axle. Slip the center portion of one of the large spools on to this for a [Pg 134] pulley, then stick the pencil ends through the screw-eyes in strips A, and glue the spool-end wheels on to them. The rear axle is like the front one, with the spool pulley omitted (Fig. 203).

The Wheels are made from the flange ends of the large spools. Figure 202 shows the front pencil axle. Slip the center part of one of the large spools onto this for a [Pg 134] pulley, then push the pencil ends through the screw-eyes in strips A, and glue the spool-end wheels onto them. The rear axle is similar to the front one, but without the spool pulley (Fig. 203).

Figs. 201-203.—Details of Axle and Belt Shaft.

The Upper Shaft shown in Fig. 201 supports a spool pulley like the one on the front axle, and its screw-eye bearings should be screwed into the top edge of the sides of the box (Fig. 200), directly over the front axle. Slip a silk-spool on to each end of this shaft to keep its ends from slipping out of the screw-eyes.

The Upper Shaft shown in Fig. 201 supports a spool pulley similar to the one on the front axle, and its screw-eye bearings should be screwed into the top edge of the sides of the box (Fig. 200), right above the front axle. Slide a silk spool onto each end of this shaft to prevent its ends from slipping out of the screw-eyes.

The Belts. As you will see by Figs. 200 to 202, the upper large pulley is belted to the motor pulley, and another belt extends from the upper shaft down to the pulley on the front axle. Rubber-bands make the best belts. Cut a hole through the bottom of the cigar-box for the belt extending from the upper shaft to the front axle to pass through. Screw the toy motor to the cigar-box with its pulley directly in line with the upper shaft pulley. [Pg 135] Wrap the spool pulleys with bicycle-tape, to keep the rubber-band belts from slipping.

The Belts. As you will see by Figs. 200 to 202, the large top pulley is connected to the motor pulley, and another belt runs from the upper shaft down to the pulley on the front axle. Rubber bands are the best for belts. Cut a hole in the bottom of the cigar box for the belt running from the upper shaft to the front axle to go through. Secure the toy motor to the cigar box with its pulley aligned directly with the upper shaft pulley. [Pg 135] Wrap the spool pulleys with bicycle tape to prevent the rubber band belts from slipping.

Fig. 204.—Two Home-made Battery Cells Connected in Series.

Fig. 204.—Two DIY Battery Cells Linked in Series.

The Battery. A dry battery is too heavy for the motor truck to carry; so we must make a special two-cell battery like that shown in Fig. 204. Two glass tumblers to hold the solution, a pair of battery zincs, a pair of carbons, and a bi-chromate of potash solution, are needed. Old battery zinc pencils with several inches of the eaten end cut off (Fig. 206) will do for the zincs, and the carbons from worn-out dry-battery cells cut to a corresponding length will do for the carbons. Fasten together the zincs and carbons with rubber-bands, as shown in Fig. 207, after wrapping a piece of bicycle-tape around the upper end of the carbon and inserting a small wad of it between the lower ends of the carbons and zincs, to keep them from touching one another.

The Battery. A dry battery is too heavy for the motor truck to carry, so we need to create a special two-cell battery like the one shown in Fig. 204. We will require two glass tumblers to hold the solution, a pair of battery zincs, a pair of carbons, and a bi-chromate of potash solution. Old battery zinc pencils with several inches of the used end cut off (Fig. 206) can be used for the zincs, and the carbons from depleted dry battery cells cut to a matching length will work for the carbons. Secure the zincs and carbons together with rubber bands, as demonstrated in Fig. 207, after wrapping a piece of bicycle tape around the upper end of the carbon and inserting a small wad of it between the lower ends of the carbons and zincs to prevent them from touching each other.

Figure 205 shows a completed cell, and Fig. 204 how the two cells are connected in series, that is, with the carbon [Pg 136] of one connected to the zinc of the other. Twisting the connecting wires into coils, as shown, is a good method of taking up the slack.

Figure 205 shows a finished cell, and Fig. 204 demonstrates how the two cells are linked in series, meaning the carbon of one is connected to the zinc of the other. Twisting the connecting wires into coils, as illustrated, is an effective way to manage the slack. [Pg 136]

Fig. 205.—A Single Cell.
Figs. 206 and 207.—Details of Zinc and Carbon.

The Bi-chromate Battery Fluid is made up of bi-chromate of potash, sulphuric acid, and water, in the following proportions:

The Bi-chromate Battery Fluid is made up of potassium bichromate, sulfuric acid, and water, in the following proportions:

4 ounces of bi-chromate of potash

4 oz of potassium dichromate

4 ounces of sulphuric acid

4 ounces of sulfuric acid

1 quart of water

In making up this solution, first add the acid to the water,—never add the water to the acid—and then, when the solution is nearly cool, add the bi-chromate of potash. Pour the acid into the water slowly, because the combination of the two creates a great deal of heat, and if the heat [Pg 137] forms too quickly your glass bottle is likely to split. Label the bottle in which you put this solution POISON.

In preparing this solution, first add the acid to the water—never add the water to the acid—and then, when the solution is almost cool, add the potassium bichromate. Pour the acid into the water slowly because mixing them generates a lot of heat, and if the heat builds up too quickly, your glass bottle could break. Label the bottle containing this solution as POISON.

As the bi-chromate solution attacks the zinc element of a cell even when the current is not being drawn upon, the zinc should be removed when the cell is not in use.

As the bi-chromate solution corrodes the zinc in a cell even when it's not being used, the zinc should be taken out when the cell is not in operation.

Amalgamating a Zinc Pencil. To reduce the eating away of a zinc pencil used in a bi-chromate solution, the zinc should be amalgamated by rubbing a thin coat of mercury over its surface. Dip the zinc into the solution, first, then with a rag dipped in the solution rub the mercury on to it.

Combining a Zinc Pencil. To prevent the zinc pencil from deteriorating when used in a bi-chromate solution, you should coat it with a thin layer of mercury. First, dip the zinc into the solution, then use a rag soaked in the solution to apply the mercury onto it.

Fig. 208.—Plan of Motor Truck Bottom.
Fig. 209.—Section through Bottom.

Fig. 208.—Layout of Motor Truck Base.
Fig. 209.—Cross-section of Base.

Cut an opening through the cigar-box large enough for the two tumblers to set in. Then cut a strip of tin about 1 inch wide and 8 inches long, and bend it into a U-shaped hanger, to support the tumbler bottoms. Slip the hanger ends under strips A, bend them against the sides of the box, and fasten with tacks (Figs. 208 and 209).

Cut an opening in the cigar box that's big enough for the two tumblers to fit in. Next, cut a strip of tin about 1 inch wide and 8 inches long, and bend it into a U-shaped hanger to support the bottoms of the tumblers. Slide the ends of the hanger under strips A, bend them against the sides of the box, and secure them with tacks (Figs. 208 and 209).

Figure 200 shows how the battery cells are connected. A small switch can be fastened to the side of the truck to shut off and turn on the current, but, instead, you can simply withdraw one pair of elements from its tumbler to [Pg 138] shut off the current. When through playing with the truck, however, it is important to remove both pairs of elements and wash them off, because the bi-chromate solution attacks the zinc elements even when the current is not in use. As the bi-chromate solution stains very badly, it is advisable to operate the motor truck only where there is no danger of ruining anything in case some of the solution spills, as in the basement or workshop. If you wish to use a dry-cell instead of the pair of bi-chromate cells, you can place the cell upon the floor and make the wires connecting it to the motor long enough so the truck can run back and forth across a room.

Figure 200 shows how the battery cells are connected. You can attach a small switch to the side of the truck to turn the current on and off, but you can also just remove one pair of elements from the tumbler to cut the current. After you're done using the truck, it's important to take out both pairs of elements and clean them, since the bi-chromate solution can damage the zinc elements even when the current isn't being used. Since the bi-chromate solution stains really badly, it's best to use the motor truck in places where it's safe and won't ruin anything if some of the solution spills, like in the basement or workshop. If you'd rather use a dry cell instead of the bi-chromate cells, you can place the cell on the floor and make the wires connecting it to the motor long enough so the truck can move back and forth across a room.

Fig. 210.—Details of Seat and Canopy-top.

The Seat and Canopy-top details are shown in Fig. 210. Make these in about the proportion to the cigar-box shown in Fig. 199. Fasten the seat to the edge of the seat-back B with glue and brads, and then fasten the side pieces A to the ends of the seat. The dashboard E is nailed to the [Pg 139] bottom piece D, and D is nailed to the lower ends of side pieces A. Figure 211 shows the pattern for the canopy-top. Make it of light-weight cardboard, or heavy writing-paper. Slash the ends as shown; then turn down the corners, and lap and glue them to form the turned-down canopy ends. Fasten the ends to the canopy uprights with tacks.

The Seat and Canopy-top details are shown in Fig. 210. Make these about the same size as the cigar box shown in Fig. 199. Attach the seat to the edge of the seat-back B using glue and brads, then attach the side pieces A to the ends of the seat. The dashboard E gets nailed to the bottom piece D, and D is nailed to the lower ends of the side pieces A. Figure 211 shows the pattern for the canopy-top. Make it from lightweight cardboard or heavy writing paper. Cut the ends as shown, then fold down the corners, and overlap and glue them to create the turned-down canopy ends. Secure the ends to the canopy uprights with tacks.

Fig. 211.—Pattern of Canopy-top.

Fig. 211.—Canopy Top Pattern.

The Seat-arms are pieces of bent wire, with their ends stuck into holes in the canopy uprights and front edge of the seat.

The Seat-arms are curved wires, with their ends inserted into holes in the canopy supports and the front edge of the seat.

The Steering-wheel is a section of a spool ¹/₈ inch thick, and is glued upon the end of a pencil or a stick. Run the lower end of the pencil through a hole in the bottom of D (Fig. 210). For

The Steering-wheel is a part of a spool that is 1/8 inch thick, and it's glued to the end of a pencil or stick. Pass the lower end of the pencil through a hole in the bottom of D (Fig. 210). For

The Levers, fasten two small sticks to the end of the bottom piece D with small staples.

The Levers, attach two small sticks to the end of the bottom piece D using small staples.

[Pg 140]

CHAPTER XII

A HOME-MADE TOY SHOOTING GALLERY

Fig. 212.—The Completed Toy Shooting Gallery.

Fig. 212.—The Finished Toy Shooting Gallery.

This interesting toy, with its funny animal targets, and a harmless pistol with which to shoot at them, will provide an endless amount of fun for a winter's evening or stormy afternoon.

This entertaining toy, featuring silly animal targets and a safe pistol to shoot at them, will offer endless fun for a winter evening or a stormy afternoon.

[Pg 141]

Figure 212 shows the completed toy, and Fig. 213 the box that forms

Figure 212 shows the finished toy, and Fig. 213 the box that shapes

The Framework. The targets can be arranged to suit the form of box that you find, and the number may be increased or decreased to suit the space.

The Framework. You can arrange the targets to fit the shape of the box you have, and you can increase or decrease the number to match the available space.

Fig. 213.—The Box Framework.

The right position for the box is upon its side so its open top forms the front of the target box (Fig. 213). The horizontal piece A (Fig. 213) is fastened between the ends of the box, to support targets. It is held in place by nails driven through the box ends into its ends. If your box is much larger than the one shown in the illustration, [Pg 142] you can provide two crosspiece supports for targets, instead of one.

The right position for the box is on its side so that its open top faces the front of the target box (Fig. 213). The horizontal piece A (Fig. 213) is attached between the ends of the box to support the targets. It's secured by nails driven through the ends of the box into the ends. If your box is significantly larger than the one shown in the illustration, [Pg 142] you can add two crosspiece supports for targets instead of just one.

The Circular Target should be drawn upon a piece of cardboard with a compass, or, by marking around a cup or small saucer to make the outer circle, marking around a can cover for the second circle, and a coin for the center circle. Blacken the outside and center rings with ink, or by rubbing with a soft pencil.

The Circular Target should be created on a piece of cardboard using a compass, or by tracing around a cup or small saucer to form the outer circle, tracing around a can lid for the second circle, and a coin for the center circle. Darken the outer and center rings with ink, or by rubbing with a soft pencil.

Figs. 214-215.—Details of Targets.

Figs. 214-215.—Target Details.

Figure 214 shows how the target should be hinged in place to the horizontal strip A. Tack or glue the lower edge of the piece of cardboard to a block of wood B. Then cut a hinge-strip out of a piece of dress lining, and either tack or glue one-half of it to block B and the other half to the target support A.

Figure 214 shows how the target should be attached to the horizontal strip A. Use tacks or glue to secure the bottom edge of the cardboard to a block of wood B. Next, cut a hinge strip from a piece of dress lining and attach one half to block B and the other half to the target support A using tacks or glue.

The Animal Targets are made with pictures cut from [Pg 143] magazines and newspapers. The pictures should be colored with crayons or water-colors, to make them as nearly like their right colors as possible.

The Animal Targets are created using images cut from [Pg 143] magazines and newspapers. The images should be colored with crayons or watercolors to make them as close to their actual colors as possible.

After cutting out the pictures, paste them upon cardboard, mount the pieces of cardboard upon blocks of wood, as shown at B and C (Figs. 214 and 215), and hinge the blocks to the target supports with cloth strips. B shows the method of hinging the targets to strip A, and to the lower side of the box, and C shows the method of hinging the targets to the ends of the box. The former targets fall backwards when struck; the latter targets swing sideways when struck.

After cutting out the pictures, glue them to cardboard, attach the pieces of cardboard to blocks of wood, as demonstrated at B and C (Figs. 214 and 215), and connect the blocks to the target supports with fabric strips. B illustrates how to hinge the targets to strip A and to the bottom of the box, while C shows how to hinge the targets to the sides of the box. The first targets fall backward when hit; the latter targets swing sideways when hit.

Fig. 216.—The Card-shooting Pistol.

Fig. 216.—The Card Shooting Pistol.

Figure 216 shows

__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ displays

The Card-shooting Pistol, and Figs. 217, 218, and 219 show the details for making it. Cut block A about 8 inches long, and block B about 3 inches long. Nail A to B as shown. Then take two rubber-bands, loop them together end to end, as shown in Fig. 218, and fasten one end of the looped bands to the end of block A by means of a nail driven into the block and bent over as shown in Fig. 217. Cut a piece of cardboard about I inch square, notch the center of two opposite edges (Fig. 219), and fit [Pg 144] the loop of the free end of the rubber-bands over the piece of cardboard and into the notches, as shown in Figs. 217 and 218. This completes the pistol.

The Card-shooting Pistol, and Figs. 217, 218, and 219 show the steps to make it. Cut block A to about 8 inches long, and block B to about 3 inches long. Nail A to B as illustrated. Then take two rubber bands, loop them together end to end as shown in Fig. 218, and attach one end of the looped bands to the end of block A using a nail driven into the block and bent over as indicated in Fig. 217. Cut a piece of cardboard about 1 inch square, notch the center of two opposite edges (Fig. 219), and fit the loop of the free end of the rubber bands over the cardboard and into the notches, as shown in Figs. 217 and 218. This completes the pistol.

The toy pistol shoots small squares of cardboard, placed in it as shown in Figs. 216 and 218, with one corner slipped beneath the rubber-band loop.

The toy pistol fires small squares of cardboard, positioned in it as shown in Figs. 216 and 218, with one corner tucked under the rubber band loop.

Figs. 217-219.—Detail of Card-shooting Pistol.

Number the Targets as shown in Fig. 212, marking the circular target "25," four of the animal targets "10," and the remaining four "5." Each number represents the score of that particular target.

When Shooting, stand 3 or 4 feet away from the target box. Aim at the circular target, because that one counts the most. If you miss it, there is the chance, of course, of hitting one of the other targets below or to one side of it and making a smaller score.

When Shooting, stand 3 or 4 feet away from the target box. Aim at the circular target, as that one counts the most. If you miss it, there is a chance, of course, of hitting one of the other targets below or to the side and scoring fewer points.

[Pg 145]

CHAPTER XIII

A HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE

There is nothing more interesting to build than a doll-house, and the construction is within the ability of the average girl. If brother is willing to lend a hand with the carpenter work so much the better. Sister can attend to the finishing and furnishing, which are important parts of the work that she can do more handily than a boy can. But there is no reason why either a girl or boy cannot undertake a doll-house like that shown in Figs. 220 and 221, and carry the work to a successful completion, by carefully following the instructions and diagrams in this chapter.

There’s nothing more fun to build than a dollhouse, and it’s something the average girl can definitely handle. If your brother is willing to help out with the carpentry, that’s even better. Your sister can take care of the finishing touches and decorating, which are important parts of the project that she can manage more easily than a boy. But there’s no reason why either a girl or a boy can’t take on a dollhouse like the one shown in Figs. 220 and 221, and successfully complete it by carefully following the instructions and diagrams in this chapter.

The Building Material. The doll-house in the photographs was built of packing cases. You can buy these at a dry-goods store at 15 or 20 cents apiece.

The Building Material. The dollhouse in the photos was made from packing crates. You can buy these at a general store for 15 or 20 cents each.

The Floor Plans are shown in Figs. 222, 223, and 224. Your boxes may make it necessary to alter the dimensions given, but that will be simple to do. Patterns for

The Floor Plans are shown in Figs. 222, 223, and 224. Your boxes might require you to change the dimensions provided, but that will be easy to manage. Patterns for

The Partitions are shown in Figs. 225 and 226. In cutting the second-floor partitions (Fig. 226), miter one edge of E and F to allow for the bedroom door opening, shown upon the plan, and miter the edges of _G_ to fit between [Pg 146] them above the door. The mitering is shown in the drawings (Fig. 226).

The Partitions are shown in Figs. 225 and 226. When cutting the second-floor partitions (Fig. 226), bevel one edge of E and F to accommodate the bedroom door opening, as indicated on the plan, and bevel the edges of _G_ to fit above the door between them. The beveling is illustrated in the drawings (Fig. 226).

Besides cutting a stair opening in the second floor, make an opening three by five inches in the second and third floors for

Besides cutting a stair opening on the second floor, make an opening that measures three by five inches in both the second and third floors for

The Elevator-shaft. Care must be taken to have these openings exactly over one another. Make the opening in the second floor six by eight inches in the place indicated upon the plan. This will allow for the elevator shaft and stairway. No stairway has been built to the third story, as the elevator serves the purpose, and one would take up too much of the ball-room space.

The Elevator Shaft. It's important to ensure that these openings align perfectly. Cut the opening in the second floor to six by eight inches where it's marked on the plan. This will accommodate the elevator shaft and stairway. No stairway is built to the third floor because the elevator suffices, and adding one would take up too much space in the ballroom.

The Side Walls should measure nineteen inches wide by twenty-four inches high, and the other two walls thirty inches wide by twenty-four inches high. That portion of

The Side Walls should be nineteen inches wide and twenty-four inches high, while the other two walls should be thirty inches wide and twenty-four inches high. That part of

The Rear Wall enclosing the kitchen and bath-room is hinged to open (see Fig. 222), and

The Rear Wall that surrounds the kitchen and bathroom is hinged to open (see Fig. 222), and

The Front Wall is made in two sections, each hinged to a strip of wood an inch and one-half wide nailed to the two edges of the house, as shown in Fig. 220.

The Front Wall is built in two parts, each attached to a 1.5-inch wide strip of wood nailed to the two edges of the house, as shown in Fig. 220.

The Windows are four by five inches, so four-by-five camera plates can be used for the glass.

The Windows are four by five inches, so you can use four-by-five camera plates for the glass.

The Roof had best be made in two sections, each measuring twenty-eight inches long by twenty-four inches wide. Fasten the boards together with battens on the under side and, after mitering the upper edge of each, nail them to the house so that the ridge is fifteen inches above the third floor. Then nail a board nineteen inches long by ten inches wide in the peak of the roof (D in Fig. 228), and a narrow strip three inches from each side wall (K and L in Fig. 224). These cut off the triangular shape of the ball-room and give it a better appearance.

The Roof should be made in two sections, each measuring twenty-eight inches long by twenty-four inches wide. Secure the boards together with battens on the underside, and after cutting the upper edge of each at an angle, attach them to the house so that the ridge is fifteen inches above the third floor. Then, attach a board that is nineteen inches long and ten inches wide at the peak of the roof (D in Fig. 228), and a narrow strip three inches from each side wall (K and L in Fig. 224). These will shape the triangular area of the ballroom and enhance its appearance.

Fig. 220.—The Home-made Doll-house.

Fig. 220.—The DIY Dollhouse.

Fig. 221.—Interior View of Doll-house.

Fig. 221.—Inside View of Dollhouse.

[Pg 147]

Click on image to view larger.

Figs. 222-226.—Plans of Doll-house and Patterns for Partitions.

Figs. 222-226.—Plans for a Dollhouse and Designs for Partitions.

Fig. 227.—The Chimney.

[Pg 148]

The Chimney is a solid block of wood with narrow strips nailed to all sides near the top (Fig. 227). Make it eight or ten inches long, and cut off the bottom to fit the slant of the roof. Paint the block red, and mark off the mortar joints in white.

The Chimney is a sturdy piece of wood with thin strips attached to all sides near the top (Fig. 227). Make it eight or ten inches long, and trim the bottom to match the slope of the roof. Paint the block red, and outline the mortar joints in white.

An Elevator is something which is found in but few doll-houses. It was built in this house, thinking it might please the young mistress, and it proved such a success that the scheme has been worked out carefully in Figs. 228, 229, 230, 231, and 232, that you may include it in the house you build.

An Elevator is something that's rarely found in dollhouses. It was built in this house with the hope of delighting the young mistress, and it turned out to be such a hit that the design has been thoroughly detailed in Figs. 228, 229, 230, 231, and 232, so you can include it in the house you create.

The cutting of the elevator-shaft has already been described. For material, procure two small pulleys such as is shown in Fig. 230, four feet of brass chain, six feet of No. 12 wire, half a dozen double-pointed tacks or very small screw-eyes, a short piece of lead pipe, and a cigar-box. Make

The cutting of the elevator shaft has already been described. For materials, get two small pulleys like the one shown in Fig. 230, four feet of brass chain, six feet of No. 12 wire, half a dozen double-pointed tacks or very small screw-eyes, a short piece of lead pipe, and a cigar box. Make

The Car out of the cigar-box, cutting it down to two and one-quarter inches wide, three and three-quarters inches deep, and seven inches high (see Fig. 231). Place two of the double-pointed tacks or screw-eyes in each side of the car for the guide-wires to run through and another in the center of the top from which to attach the brass chain.

The Car out of the cigar box, trimmed to two and a quarter inches wide, three and three-quarters inches deep, and seven inches high (see Fig. 231). Place two double-pointed tacks or screw-eyes on each side of the car for the guide wires to run through and one more in the center of the top to attach the brass chain.

[Pg 149]

Fig. 228.—Front View of Elevator-shaft and Stairs.
Figs. 229-232.—Details of the Elevator.

Fig. 228.—Front View of Elevator Shaft and Stairs.
Figs. 229-232.—Details of the Elevator.

[Pg 150]

The Guide-wires are made of very heavy wire that will not bend easily. Cut two of a length to reach from the first floor to the ball-room ceiling, and after running them through the tacks in the sides of the car, stick their ends into small holes bored at E, F, G, and H (Fig. 228). The upper holes should be bored through the ball-room ceiling, while the lower ones need be bored but part way through the first floor. Care must be taken to have these holes in the correct position, so the elevator will run up and down upon the wires without striking the sides of the shaft. The easiest way of fastening the wires in place is to run the upper ends through the holes, until the lower ends can be set into their sockets, and then drive two double-pointed tacks over the top of each wire, as shown at E and F in Fig. 228.

The Guide-wires are made from very thick wire that won’t bend easily. Cut two pieces long enough to reach from the first floor to the ballroom ceiling, and after running them through the tacks on the sides of the car, insert their ends into small holes drilled at E, F, G, and H (Fig. 228). The upper holes should be drilled through the ballroom ceiling, while the lower ones only need to be drilled partway through the first floor. It’s important to position these holes correctly so that the elevator can move up and down on the wires without hitting the sides of the shaft. The easiest way to secure the wires is to thread the upper ends through the holes until the lower ends can be set into their sockets, then drive two double-pointed tacks over the top of each wire, as shown at E and F in Fig. 228.

Now run the elevator up to the top of the shaft, and mark upon the ceiling where the screw-eye in the top of the car strikes. At this point bore a hole through the ceiling and two inches back of it bore another hole, through which to run the weight-chain. When this has been done, cut a short block of wood to fit the peak of the roof and

Now take the elevator up to the top of the shaft and mark on the ceiling where the screw-eye at the top of the car hits. At this spot, drill a hole through the ceiling, and two inches back from it, drill another hole for the weight-chain. Once that's done, cut a small block of wood to fit at the peak of the roof and

[Pg 151]

Screw the Pulleys into it two inches apart (Fig. 229). Fit the block in the peak of the roof, centering the front pulley over the top of the car as nearly as possible, and drive a couple of nails through the roof boards into it to hold it in place temporarily. Then

Screw the Pulleys into it two inches apart (Fig. 229). Fit the block at the peak of the roof, centering the front pulley directly over the top of the car as closely as you can, and drive a couple of nails through the roof boards into it to hold it in place temporarily. Then

Attach the Chain to the tack in the top of the car, slip a piece of lead pipe about an inch long over the chain, allowing it to set on the top of the car to make the latter heavier (Fig. 231), and run the chain up through the first hole in the ceiling, over the pulleys, and down through the second hole. To the end of the chain attach a piece of lead pipe for

Attach the Chain to the hook at the top of the car, slide a piece of lead pipe about an inch long onto the chain, letting it rest on top of the car to make it heavier (Fig. 231), and run the chain through the first hole in the ceiling, over the pulleys, and down through the second hole. At the end of the chain, attach a piece of lead pipe for

The Counter-balance (C, Fig. 232). This should be just heavy enough to make a perfect balance between it and the car, which can be obtained by whittling off the end of the pipe until the weight of the two is the same. Make the chain of sufficient length so the weight will rest upon the first floor when the car is at the third floor. You can now tell whether or not the pulleys are in the right positions. When they have been adjusted properly, nail the block firmly in place.

The Counter-balance (C, Fig. 232). This should be just heavy enough to create a perfect balance between it and the car, which you can achieve by trimming the end of the pipe until both weights are equal. Make the chain long enough so the weight rests on the first floor when the car is on the third floor. You can now check if the pulleys are in the correct positions. Once they are properly adjusted, secure the block firmly in place.

The Gable-Ends. The front gable-end consists of four pieces (A, B, C, and D, in Fig. 233), the dimensions for the cutting of which are given in the illustration. After preparing these, nail A, B, and C in their proper positions in the gable of the roof, and trim the edges of D, if they need it, to fit between. To prevent the movable section from pushing in too far, it will be necessary to nail a narrow [Pg 152] strip of wood to the roof and third floor, just inside of it. The rear gable is made in one piece, and is fastened in place permanently.

The Gable-Ends. The front gable-end is made up of four pieces (A, B, C, and D, in Fig. 233), with the cutting dimensions shown in the illustration. Once you’ve prepared these, nail A, B, and C into their correct positions in the roof's gable, and trim D as needed to fit between them. To stop the movable section from sliding in too much, you’ll need to nail a narrow strip of wood to the roof and the third floor, just inside it. The rear gable is constructed as one piece and is secured in place permanently.

Fig. 233.—The Front Gable-end.

Fig. 233.—The Front Gable.

The movable gable and all hinged portions should have

The movable gable and all the hinged parts should have

Spring-catches with which to shut up and lock the house (see the illustrations).

Spring catches to secure and lock the house (see the illustrations).

The Stairway is shown in Fig. 228, and the details for its construction will be found in Figs. 234, 235, 236, 237. This stairway is made in two parts, with a platform between. Cut a block of wood the shape and size shown in Fig. 234 for the platform, with notches at A and B for the tops of the lower stringers to fit in. Then

The Stairway is shown in Fig. 228, and the details for its construction will be found in Figs. 234, 235, 236, 237. This stairway is made in two sections, with a landing in between. Cut a block of wood to the shape and size shown in Fig. 234 for the landing, with notches at A and B for the tops of the lower stringers to fit into. Then

Prepare Two Stringers of thirteen steps similar to Fig. 235, and two stringers of five steps similar to Fig. 236, laying off the steps by means of a cardboard pattern, or pitch-board, of the size shown in Fig. 237. After cutting out these pieces, fasten the tops of the lower stringers in the notches A and B in the platform, and nail the platform in its proper position in [Pg 153] the corner of the hall. When this has been done, nail the bottoms of the upper stringers (E in Fig. 236) to the sides of the platform at C and D (Fig. 234), and set the tops in notches cut in the edge of the second floor.

Prepare Two Stringers with thirteen steps like Fig. 235, and two stringers with five steps like Fig. 236. Use a cardboard pattern, or pitch-board, of the size shown in Fig. 237 to mark out the steps. After cutting these pieces, attach the tops of the lower stringers in the notches A and B on the platform, and secure the platform in its correct position in the corner of the hall. Once that's complete, nail the bottoms of the upper stringers (E in Fig. 236) to the sides of the platform at C and D (Fig. 234), and place the tops in notches cut into the edge of the second floor.

Figs. 234-237.—Details of Stairs.

Figs. 234-237.—Stair Details.

The Treads and Risers of the steps—the horizontal and vertical boards—should be cut out of cigar-box wood.

The Treads and Risers of the steps—the horizontal and vertical boards—should be made from cigar-box wood.

Cut

The Newel-Posts out of short square blocks, and

The Newel-Posts made from short square blocks, and

The Hand-rails out of strips of cigar-box wood. Make a groove in the under side of the hand-rails to receive the ends of

The Hand-rails made from pieces of cigar-box wood. Create a groove on the underside of the hand-rails to hold the ends of

The Balusters, or spindles. Toothpicks are of just the right size for balusters.

The Balusters, or spindles. Toothpicks are the perfect size for balusters.

[Pg 154]

The delicate portions of the stairways should be glued in place. Make slits in the stair treads to stick the bottoms of the balusters in.

The fragile parts of the stairways should be glued down. Cut slits in the stair treads to insert the bottoms of the balusters.

The Front Steps are clearly shown in Fig. 220. Make the solid balustrades out of pieces of box board, and the step treads and risers out of cigar-box wood. Prepare the rear steps in the same way.

The Front Steps are clearly shown in Fig. 220. Make the solid railings from pieces of box board, and the step treads and risers from cigar-box wood. Prepare the back steps the same way.

Cut the Window Openings in the places indicated upon the plans (Figs. 222 to 224) and the photographs. First bore holes in the four corners of each window space; then saw from hole to hole with a compass-saw.

Cut the Window Openings in the spots marked on the plans (Figs. 222 to 224) and the photos. First, drill holes in the four corners of each window area; then saw from hole to hole with a compass saw.

Old camera plates are excellent material for

Old camera plates are great for

The Window Glass. Fasten the glass in the openings with small brads in the same way that glass is fastened in picture-frames, and putty it in the same way that window glass is puttied, to hold it firm.

The Window Glass. Secure the glass in the openings with small brads, just like how glass is secured in picture frames, and use putty in the same way that window glass is puttied to keep it in place.

The Front and Rear Doors can be painted upon the front of the house. Openings are not necessary.

The Front and Rear Doors can be painted on the front of the house. Openings aren’t required.

The Outside Trimmings. Strips of cigar-box wood should be cut up for the outside door and window casings, and be tacked around the openings as shown in Fig. 220. Nail a molding or a plain strip of wood to the front edge of the third floor, as shown in Fig. 220.

The Outside Trimmings. Cut strips of cigar box wood for the exterior door and window frames, and attach them around the openings as shown in Fig. 220. Nail a molding or a plain wood strip to the front edge of the third floor, as shown in Fig. 220.

Castors will make it easier to move the doll-house about. Cut four blocks of wood, fasten a castor to each, and nail one block inside each corner of the foundation frame.

Castors will make it easier to move the dollhouse around. Cut four blocks of wood, attach a castor to each one, and nail a block inside each corner of the foundation frame.

[Pg 155]

The Interior Woodwork. Cigar-boxes make excellent hardwood floors. Fit the pieces close together and fasten with small brads.

The Interior Woodwork. Cigar boxes make great hardwood floors. Fit the pieces closely together and secure them with small brads.

Make the door and window casings, picture-moldings, and baseboards out of strips of cigar-box wood.

Make the door and window frames, picture moldings, and baseboards from strips of cigar box wood.

After completing the carpenter work of the house,

After finishing the carpentry work on the house,

Set the Nail-heads,—that is, drive them below the surface of the wood,—putty these holes and all cracks and other defective places, and sandpaper rough surfaces.

Set the nail heads—that is, drive them below the surface of the wood—fill these holes and all cracks and other damaged areas with putty, and sandpaper any rough surfaces.

Paint the House a cream color, with white trimmings and a green roof. Stripe the foundation walls to indicate courses of stone work. Paint the front door a mahogany color, with panels indicated upon it, and make the rear door white. The painting of the chimney has already been described.

Paint the House a cream color, with white trim and a green roof. Add stripes to the foundation walls to show the levels of the stonework. Paint the front door a mahogany color with paneling on it, and make the back door white. The painting of the chimney has already been covered.

The inside walls should be finished as suggested in Chapter XIV. The woodwork may be oiled, or painted with white enamel or any other color desired.

The interior walls should be finished as outlined in Chapter XIV. The woodwork can be oiled or painted with white enamel or any other color you prefer.

A Colonial Doll-house with a number of features not included in this house is described and illustrated in Chapter V of "The Boy Craftsman."

A Colonial Dollhouse with several features not found in this house is described and illustrated in Chapter V of "The Boy Craftsman."

[Pg 156]

CHAPTER XIV

FURNISHING THE HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE

With the carpenter work of a doll-house completed, the finishing of the inside,—wall papering and painting,—and selecting of furnishings for the various rooms, remain to be done. This requires as much care as the building of the house, and while any boy can do the work, the help of a sister will perhaps simplify matters and give to the rooms a daintier appearance.

With the carpenter work of a dollhouse finished, the interior work—like wallpapering, painting, and choosing furniture for the different rooms—still needs to be done. This takes just as much attention as building the house itself, and while any boy can handle it, getting help from a sister might make things easier and give the rooms a more charming look.

The Walls and Ceiling of the kitchen and bath-room should be painted with white lead or white enamel. For the other rooms select paper having a small design, such as is to be found on most ceiling papers. If you have ever watched the paper-hanger at work, you have noticed he puts on the ceiling first, allowing the paper to run down the walls a little way all around instead of trimming it off. Then he hangs the wall paper, and if there is no border to cover the joints of the ceiling and wall papers he carries the wall paper up to the ceiling. Use flour paste to stick on the paper, and a cloth or photograph-print roller to smooth out the wrinkles. The dining-room should have a wainscot of dark paper below the chair-rail, and a paper with little or no figure upon it above.

The Walls and Ceiling of the kitchen and bathroom should be painted with white lead or white enamel. For the other rooms, choose wallpaper with a small design, similar to most ceiling papers. If you've ever watched a wallpaper-hanger at work, you’ve seen that they start with the ceiling paper, letting it run down the walls a little rather than trimming it. Then they hang the wall paper, and if there’s no border to hide the seams between the ceiling and wall papers, they bring the wall paper up to the ceiling. Use flour paste to apply the paper, and use a cloth or a photograph-print roller to smooth out any wrinkles. The dining room should have dark paper below the chair rail for wainscoting and paper with little or no pattern above it.

[Pg 157]

All Hardwood Floors, the stairs, door and window casings, baseboards, and picture moldings should be varnished thoroughly or given several coats of boiled linseed-oil.

All Hardwood Floors, the stairs, door and window trim, baseboards, and picture moldings should be thoroughly varnished or treated with several coats of boiled linseed oil.

All floors, with the exception of the kitchen, bath-room, and hardwood floors, should be fitted with

All floors, except for the kitchen, bathroom, and hardwood floors, should be fitted with

Carpets. If you do not happen to have suitable scraps on hand, they can be procured at almost any furnishing store where they make up carpets. Select pieces with as small patterns as possible. The floors of the bath-room and kitchen should be covered with oilcloth.

Carpets. If you don’t have the right scraps available, you can find them at almost any furniture store that sells carpets. Choose pieces with minimal patterns. The floors in the bathroom and kitchen should be covered with vinyl.

Rugs for the hardwood floors may be made out of scraps of carpet.

Rugs for hardwood floors can be made from leftover pieces of carpet.

Window-shades may be made for each window out of linen, and tacked to the top casing so that the bottom of the curtain reaches just above the center of the opening. Each window should also have

Window shades can be made for each window from linen and attached to the top frame so that the bottom of the curtain hangs just above the middle of the opening. Each window should also have

Lace Curtains made out of scraps of lace. They should either be tacked above the windows or hung upon poles made out of No. 12 wire, cut in lengths to fit the windows. Screw small brass hooks into the top window-casings for the poles to hang upon.

Lace Curtains made from leftover lace. They should either be tacked above the windows or hung on poles made from No. 12 wire, cut to the appropriate lengths for the windows. Screw small brass hooks into the top of the window frames for the poles to hang on.

Handsome Portières for the doorways can be made with beads and with the small hollow straws sold for use in kindergartens. For the

Bead Portières, cut threads as long as the height of the door and string the beads upon them, alternating the colors in such a way as to produce patterns. Then tie [Pg 158] the strings together to a piece of wire the width of the doorway, and fasten the wire in the opening. The

Bead Portières, cut threads that are the same length as the height of the door and string the beads on them, mixing the colors to create patterns. Then tie the strings together to a piece of wire that is the width of the doorway, and secure the wire in the opening. The

Straw Portières are made similarly.

Straw Curtains are made similarly.

From magazine illustrations you can select

From magazine illustrations, you can choose

Suitable Pictures for each room, but if you are handy with brush and pencil you may prefer to make the pictures yourself. These may be mounted upon cardboard and have their edges bound with passe-partout paper to give the effect of frames, or frames may be cut out of cardboard and pasted to them. Hang the pictures to the picture molding with thread.

Suitable Pictures for each room, but if you’re skilled with a brush and pencil, you might want to create the pictures yourself. You can mount them on cardboard and use passe-partout paper around the edges to mimic the look of frames, or cut out frames from cardboard and glue them on. Hang the pictures from the picture molding using thread.

A Cosey-corner may be fitted up in the ball-room by fastening a strip of a cigar-box in one corner an inch and one-half above the floor for the seat, and hanging draperies on each side of it. Pillows may be made for it out of scraps of silk stuffed with cotton.

A Cozy Corner can be set up in the ballroom by securing a strip of a cigar box in one corner, an inch and a half above the floor for the seat, and draping fabric on each side of it. You can make pillows for it using leftover silk stuffed with cotton.

A doll-house properly proportioned in every detail, including the selection of its furniture, is pleasing to look at, and is to be desired much more than some of the specimens to be found in the stores. These very often have parlor chairs larger than the mantel, beds that either fill two-thirds of the bedroom space or are so small they are hidden from view by the chairs, and other furniture accordingly, all having been selected without any thought as to size or fitness.

A dollhouse that's properly scaled in every detail, including the choice of its furniture, is enjoyable to look at and is definitely more desirable than some of the examples found in stores. These often have living room chairs that are bigger than the fireplace, beds that take up two-thirds of the bedroom space or are so small they get hidden behind the chairs, and other furniture that just doesn't fit right, all chosen without any consideration of size or suitability.

Care must be taken, in buying the furniture, to have the pieces suitable to the rooms. It will no doubt require more time than to purchase the first sets you come across, [Pg 159] but when you have completed the selections, the result will be a much better appearing doll-house.

Make sure to choose furniture that fits the rooms when you're buying it. It might take more time than just grabbing the first sets you find, [Pg 159] but once you've finished picking everything out, your dollhouse will look way better.

By carefully searching the toy-shops you are almost certain of finding what you want for the various rooms, as about everything imaginable in furniture has been manufactured. Porcelain bath-tubs, wash-basins with real faucets and running water, gilt furniture, chandeliers, and such articles are tempting to buy. But it is rather expensive to fit up a house in this way, for, though each piece may not amount to very much, they count up very quickly.

By carefully searching the toy stores, you’re almost guaranteed to find what you need for the different rooms since just about every type of furniture imaginable has been made. Porcelain bathtubs, washbasins with real faucets and running water, gilded furniture, chandeliers, and similar items are tempting to buy. However, it's quite expensive to furnish a house this way, because even if each piece doesn’t cost much, the total adds up quickly.

The suggestions for the making of cigar-box furniture in Chapter XVII, and spool and cardboard furniture in Chapter XIX, will give you plenty of material for furniture and save you the expense of buying this part of the furnishings for your house.

The ideas for creating cigar-box furniture in Chapter XVII, and spool and cardboard furniture in Chapter XIX, will provide you with plenty of options for furnishing your home while saving money on these items.

[Pg 160]

CHAPTER XV

A HOME-MADE TOY STABLE

Fig. 238.—Exterior of Stable.

Fig. 238.—Stable Exterior.

The stable illustrated in Figs. 238 and 239 is designed in keeping with the doll-house in Chapter XIII. It is shown in the background of the photograph of this doll-house (Fig. 220). If you prefer a garage instead of this stable, you may omit the stalls, and make one or two large windows in the rear wall in place of the small high windows shown. The building's construction is very [Pg 161] simple. The dimensions are: width, twenty-four inches; depth, twelve inches; and height, twenty-two inches. The barn contains five stalls on the ground floor and a hay-loft above.

The stable shown in Figs. 238 and 239 is designed to match the dollhouse in Chapter XIII. It appears in the background of the photo of this dollhouse (Fig. 220). If you'd rather have a garage instead of this stable, you can skip the stalls and add one or two large windows in the back wall in place of the small high ones shown. The building is very [Pg 161] simple in construction. The dimensions are: width, twenty-four inches; depth, twelve inches; and height, twenty-two inches. The barn has five stalls on the ground floor and a hayloft above.

Fig. 239.—Interior of Stable.

Fig. 239.—Inside of Stable.

To build the stable according to the drawings, a box ten by twelve by twenty-four inches should be procured for

To build the stable according to the drawings, a box measuring ten by twelve by twenty-four inches should be sourced for

The First Story. If you have a box of different proportions it will be a simple matter to make such alterations in the details as it will require.

The First Story. If you have a box with various sizes, making the necessary changes to the details will be easy.

The Roof is made in two sections, each fifteen by eighteen inches, and is fastened to the top of the box so that the peak is twenty-two inches above the bottom.

The Roof is made in two pieces, each fifteen by eighteen inches, and is secured to the top of the box so that the peak is twenty-two inches above the bottom.

The Gable-end is made in four pieces, as shown in Fig. 240, [Pg 162] A, B, and C, to be nailed in place, and D to be movable as in the case of the doll-house. Make a three-by-five-inch window in the center of D, and fasten the glass in place with strips cut as described in Chapter XIII. Strips should be nailed to the roof just inside of the movable section to prevent the latter from setting in too far, and a spring catch fastened to C and D as shown, to hold the movable section in place.

The Gable-end is made in four pieces, as shown in Fig. 240, [Pg 162] A, B, and C, which should be nailed in place, and D is meant to be movable like in the dollhouse design. Create a three-by-five-inch window in the center of D, and secure the glass with strips as detailed in Chapter XIII. The strips should be nailed to the roof just inside the movable section to prevent it from going in too far, and a spring catch should be attached to C and D as shown, to keep the movable section in place.

Fig. 240.—Front Gable-end.

Fig. 240.—Front Gable.

Fig. 241.—Stall Partitions.

Figure 241 gives the patterns and measurements for

Figure 241 provides the patterns and measurements for

The Stall Partitions, four of which should be cut out and fastened to the floor of the stable four inches apart, or so they will divide the inside width into five equal stalls.

The Stall Partitions, four of which should be cut out and attached to the floor of the stable four inches apart, so they will divide the inside width into five equal stalls.

The Feed-troughs are made out of two strips of cigar [Pg 163]boxes fitted between the stalls, as shown in Figs. 239 and 241, and are fastened in place by means of brads and glue. Above the stalls cut

The Feed-troughs are created using two strips from cigar [Pg 163]boxes placed between the stalls, as shown in Figs. 239 and 241, and are secured with brads and glue. Above the stalls cut

Small Windows an inch and one-half square in the rear wall. These are the ventilating windows for the stalls, and may be left open.

Small Windows an inch and a half square in the rear wall. These are the ventilation windows for the stalls and can be left open.

Figure 242 shows the construction of

__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ shows the building of

Fig. 242.—Ladder to Hay-loft.

Fig. 242.—Ladder to Hayloft.

A Ladder to the hay-loft. This is made out of two sticks twelve inches long, with strips of cigar-boxes two inches long glued to them half an inch apart, as shown in the drawing. Cut away a section of the hay-loft floor two inches square and stick the end of the ladder up through the opening, fastening the uprights to the edge of the floor (see Fig. 242).

A Ladder to the hayloft. This is made from two sticks twelve inches long, with strips of cigar boxes two inches long glued to them half an inch apart, as shown in the drawing. Cut out a two-inch square section of the hayloft floor and insert the end of the ladder through the opening, securing the uprights to the edge of the floor (see Fig. 242).

A stick about three inches long, with a very small pulley attached near the end, should be fastened in the peak of the roof for a

A stick about three inches long, with a very small pulley attached near the end, should be secured at the peak of the roof for a

Feed-hoist (see Fig. 238).

Feed hoist (see __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__).

[Pg 164]

The first story has

The first story features

A Drop-front, as shown in Figs. 238 and 239. This is made from the box-cover. Fasten the boards together with battens placed upon the inside, and hinge it to the bottom of the stable. Nail two cleats to the under side of the floor (see Fig. 238) to lift it off the ground just enough to allow the front to drop without springing its hinges.

A Drop-front, as shown in Figs. 238 and 239. This is made from the box cover. Secure the boards together with battens placed on the inside, and hinge it to the bottom of the stable. Attach two cleats to the underside of the floor (see Fig. 238) to raise it off the ground just enough to let the front drop without stressing its hinges.

When the front is down it forms an incline upon which to run the horses into the stable. For this reason it is not advisable to cut an opening in it, but merely

When the front is lowered, it creates a slope for guiding the horses into the stable. For this reason, it's not a good idea to cut an opening in it, but simply

Represent a Stable Door on the outside (see Fig. 238). This is done with paint and a fine brush. First paint a green panel in the center of the front, and then mark off a couple of panels within this space with black paint, and stripe them diagonally to represent beaded-boards.

Represent a Stable Door on the outside (see Fig. 238). This is done with paint and a fine brush. First, paint a green panel in the center of the front, and then outline a couple of panels within this space with black paint, and stripe them diagonally to represent beadboard.

With strips of wood half an inch wide make

With strips of wood that are half an inch wide, make

A Simple Trim around the door, the sides of the stable, and around the gable, as shown in the illustration.

When the carpenter work has been finished,

When the carpenter's work is done,

Paint the Inside of the stable white, and the outside the same colors as used for the doll-house (see description in Chapter XIII).

Paint the inside of the stable white, and the outside the same colors used for the dollhouse (see description in Chapter XIII).

If you Prefer a Garage, use your ingenuity to fit up the interior of the building as you think it ought to be.

If you Prefer a Garage, use your creativity to set up the inside of the building the way you want it.

[Pg 165]

CHAPTER XVI

A HOME-MADE DOLL APARTMENT BUILDING

The doll apartment building in this chapter is a new idea in doll-houses. By the illustrations you will see that the apartment building is three stories high, and consists of three units—each one story high—and a roof. During playtime the units are arranged side by side upon the floor so as to form a six-room apartment (Fig. 244); and afterward they are piled up one upon another as shown in Fig. 243, and the roof placed on top, in a compact form that takes up but little floor space.

The doll apartment building in this chapter is a fresh idea in dollhouses. From the illustrations, you'll see that the apartment building is three stories high, consisting of three one-story units and a roof. During playtime, the units are set up side by side on the floor to create a six-room apartment (Fig. 244); afterward, they can be stacked on top of each other as shown in Fig. 243, with the roof placed on top, making it a compact design that occupies minimal floor space.

Building Material. The apartment building is built out of grocery boxes. The boxes used for the units must be of equal size, and the thing to do is to select those in which a standard brand of goods come packed. If one grocery store doesn't have what you want, go to another. If the sides and ends of the boxes are in one piece, it will greatly simplify the matter of cutting the door and window openings.

Building Material. The apartment building is constructed from grocery boxes. The boxes used for the units need to be the same size, so it's best to choose those that a standard brand of products is packaged in. If one grocery store doesn't have what you need, check another. If the sides and ends of the boxes are intact, it will make cutting the door and window openings much easier.

The Room Dimensions. The boxes used in the model illustrated were 28 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 8 inches deep. These provided space for a vestibule 3 inches by 8 inches, a reception-hall 8½ inches by 8 inches, [Pg 166] a living-room 12 inches by 18½ inches, a dining-room 12 inches by 15 inches, a kitchen 12 inches by 8 inches, a pantry 7 inches by 3 inches, two bedrooms—one 12 inches square and the other 12 inches by 8 inches, and a bathroom 7½ inches by 6 inches (Fig. 245). You may have to vary the sizes of your rooms a trifle, if you get boxes of different proportions, but it is probable that you can keep to the same plan arrangement.

The Room Dimensions. The boxes used in the model were 28 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 8 inches deep. These created space for a vestibule measuring 3 inches by 8 inches, a reception hall measuring 8½ inches by 8 inches, [Pg 166] a living room measuring 12 inches by 18½ inches, a dining room measuring 12 inches by 15 inches, a kitchen measuring 12 inches by 8 inches, a pantry measuring 7 inches by 3 inches, two bedrooms—one measuring 12 inches square and the other measuring 12 inches by 8 inches, and a bathroom measuring 7½ inches by 6 inches (Fig. 245). You may need to adjust the sizes of your rooms slightly if your boxes have different dimensions, but you can likely stick to the same layout.

Fig. 245.—Plan of the Six-room Doll Apartment.

Fig. 245.—Layout of the Six-room Doll Apartment.

The First Story Unit is shown in Fig. 246, and diagrams of its two partitions A and B, are placed to the right of it; Fig. 247 shows

The First Story Unit is shown in Fig. 246, and diagrams of its two sections A and B are placed to the right of it; Fig. 247 shows

The Second Story Unit, with diagrams of its three partitions C, D, and E, placed to the left and right of it, and Fig. 248 shows

The Second Story Unit, with diagrams of its three sections C, D, and E, positioned to the left and right of it, and Fig. 248 shows

The Third Story Unit, with diagrams of its two partitions F and G placed to the left of it.

The Third Story Unit, with diagrams of its two sections F and G positioned to its left.

Fig. 244.—How the Three Stories are Arranged Side by Side to form a Six-room Apartment.

Fig. 244.—How the Three Stories are Arranged Next to Each Other to Form a Six-Room Apartment.

Fig. 243.—The Most Stylish Apartments in Doll Town.

Fig. 243.—The Hottest Apartments in Doll Town.

Fig. 246.—The First Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions.
Fig. 247.—The Second Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions.
Fig. 248.—The Third Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions.

[Pg 167]

Mark the Door and Window Openings carefully upon the sides of the box, making them as nearly as possible in the same proportion to the wall space as is shown in the illustrations. Then, in cutting the openings, bore a number of small holes a trifle inside of the lines, to make an [Pg 168] opening large enough to insert a small keyhole-saw or bracket-saw, and the cutting will be easy to do.

Mark the Door and Window Openings carefully on the sides of the box, trying to keep them as close to the proportions of the wall space shown in the illustrations. Then, when cutting the openings, drill several small holes just inside the lines to create an [Pg 168] opening big enough to fit a small keyhole saw or bracket saw, and it will be easy to cut.

Fig. 249.—In Cutting the Opening for the Bay Windows, leave a Narrow Strip over the Opening, as above, for a "Beam."

Fig. 249.—When cutting the opening for the bay windows, leave a narrow strip over the opening, as shown above, for a "beam."

The Bay Windows on the second and third stories are built of cigar-box wood. Instead of cutting away the entire width of the box at the points of attaching these bays, it is a better plan to leave a narrow strip over the opening, as shown in Fig. 249. This will hold the walls together, and will form a "beam" across the ceiling. The side edges of the pieces that form the front of the bay must be slanted off so as to fit at the proper angles, and the window openings must be cut carefully, because the margin of wood around them is narrow and will split easily. Fasten together the members of the bays, also the inside partitions, with glue and brads.

The Bay Windows on the second and third floors are made from cigar-box wood. Instead of cutting away the entire width of the box where these bays attach, it’s better to leave a narrow strip over the opening, as shown in Fig. 249. This will keep the walls together and create a "beam" across the ceiling. The side edges of the pieces that make up the front of the bay should be angled to fit properly, and the window openings need to be cut carefully, because the wood margin around them is narrow and can split easily. Secure the components of the bays and the inside partitions with glue and brads.

The Joints between the Units, when piled one upon another, are concealed by a band of wood ½ inch wide nailed around the front and two ends of the bottom of the second and third story units (Figs. 247 and 248). These bands should project about ¼ inch below the bottoms of these boxes, so as to set down over the boxes beneath. They must not extend around the back of the boxes, and [Pg 169] cannot be fastened to the first story box, because they would interfere with placing the boxes close together as in Fig. 244.

The Joints between the Units, when stacked on top of each other, are covered by a ½-inch wide band of wood nailed around the front and both ends of the bottoms of the second and third story units (Figs. 247 and 248). These bands should extend about ¼ inch below the bottoms of these boxes to rest over the boxes below. They must not wrap around the back of the boxes and [Pg 169] cannot be attached to the first story box, as they would obstruct placing the boxes closely together as in Fig. 244.

The first story unit must be raised to the same floor level as the other stories, however, and a thin board of the same thickness as the projection of the strips on the second and third story units must be nailed to its bottom to bring it to the same level (Fig. 246).

The first story unit needs to be brought up to the same floor level as the other stories, and a thin board that matches the thickness of the projections on the strips of the second and third story units must be attached to its bottom to level it out (Fig. 246).

Removable Roof, Chimney and Chimney Cap.

Figs. 250 and 251.—How the Removable Roof is Constructed.
Fig. 252.—How the Chimney and Chimney Cap are Made.

Figs. 250 and 251.—How the Removable Roof is Built.
Fig. 252.—How the Chimney and Chimney Cap are Created.

The Roof Construction is shown in Fig. 250. Boards H (Figs. 250 and 251) should be cut of the right size to form a projection of 1½ inches over the front and ends of the building, and the piece I should be cut to the proper shape and size to form an equal projection over the bay windows. Strips J and K are 1 inch wide, and should be fastened to boards H so they will come exactly over the [Pg 170] front and end walls when the roof is set in place. Block L should be cut of such a shape and size that when nailed to strip K its front edges will come directly over the walls of the bay windows. A narrow strip nailed to the under side of the roof boards, close against the walls, will conceal the joint between the roof and top story and make a good finish molding.

The Roof Construction is shown in Fig. 250. Boards H (Figs. 250 and 251) should be cut to the right size to extend 1½ inches over the front and ends of the building, and piece I should be cut to the proper shape and size to extend equally over the bay windows. Strips J and K are 1 inch wide and should be attached to boards H so that they align perfectly with the front and end walls when the roof is installed. Block L should be cut to a shape and size that, when nailed to strip K, its front edges will line up directly over the walls of the bay windows. A narrow strip nailed to the underside of the roof boards, close to the walls, will hide the joint between the roof and the top story and create a nice finishing touch.

The Chimney is made of two blocks (M and N, Fig. 252). Notch the lower block to fit over strip J, and cut the cap block large enough to project ¹/₈ inch all around.

The Chimney is made of two blocks (M and N, Fig. 252). Notch the lower block to fit over strip J, and cut the cap block large enough to extend ¹/₈ inch all around.

The Windows. Old photograph plates can be cut down to the proper sizes for the window openings, but it will not cost much to have the paint-shop man cut them out of new material, if you haven't any. The glass should be just a trifle smaller than the openings. Fasten it in place with narrow strips of cigar-box wood. Window sashes can be indicated by striping the glass with black paint.

The Windows. Old photograph plates can be cut down to the right sizes for the window openings, but it won't cost much to have the paint shop guy cut them out of new material if you don't have any. The glass should be slightly smaller than the openings. Secure it in place with narrow strips of cigar box wood. You can represent window sashes by painting stripes on the glass with black paint.

Make the Front Door out of a piece of cigar-box wood, and set a piece of glass in an opening cut about the size shown in Fig. 243. This door may be hinged to open, but it is better to fasten it in the opening, because small pieces are easily broken off their hinges. Fasten a small block below the front door for a step (Fig. 243).

Make the Front Door from a piece of cigar-box wood, and install a piece of glass in an opening cut about the size shown in Fig. 243. This door can be hinged to open, but it's better to attach it in the opening because small pieces can easily break off their hinges. Attach a small block below the front door for a step (Fig. 243).

The Inside Doorways, in the ends of the first story unit and in the back of the second and third story units, may be fitted with pieces of board that can be set in when the units are piled up in the form of the building, but it is not necessary to make this provision.

The Inside Doorways, at the ends of the first story unit and at the back of the second and third story units, can be fitted with boards that can be inserted when the units are stacked to form the building, but it’s not essential to make this arrangement.

[Pg 171]

The Interior Trim. The door and window casings, picture moldings, baseboards, and other trimming should be made out of strips of cigar-box wood. Tack the strips in place with short brads.

The Interior Trim. The door and window frames, picture moldings, baseboards, and other trim should be made from pieces of cigar-box wood. Secure the strips in place with short nails.

Fig. 253.—The Living-room Mantel.

Fig. 253.—The Living Room Mantel.

Fig. 254.—Details of Mantel.

Fig. 254.—Mantel details.

A Fireplace must be provided for the living-room, and one easily constructed out of four pieces of wood is shown in Figs. 253 and 254. Cut blocks O and P of the same thickness, and make the shelf piece Q of the proper size to project an equal distance over the front and ends. Fasten the pieces together, then glue red paper to the wood, and when this has dried mark off brick courses with a pencil. The joints may be accentuated by striping with white or black paint.

A Fireplace needs to be set up in the living room, and one that's easy to build from four pieces of wood is shown in Figs. 253 and 254. Cut blocks O and P to the same thickness, and make the shelf piece Q the right size to extend evenly over the front and sides. Attach the pieces together, then glue red paper to the wood. Once it's dry, mark off brick lines with a pencil. You can highlight the joints by painting them in white or black.

Lighting Fixtures, simple to make, are shown in two splendid forms in Figures 255 and 257. Small brass screw-hooks such as are shown in Figure 256 can be pur [Pg 172]chased at any hardware store, and a couple of dozen of these, a lead pencil, and a number of large beads, will furnish you with enough material for making fixtures for every room in the apartment.

Lighting Fixtures, which are easy to make, are displayed in two beautiful styles in Figures 255 and 257. Small brass screw-hooks like the ones shown in Figure 256 can be found at any hardware store. With a couple of dozen of these, a pencil, and some large beads, you'll have enough supplies to create fixtures for every room in the apartment. [Pg 172]

Figs. 255-258.—Two Lighting Fixtures and how to Make Them.

Figs. 255-258.—Two Light Fixtures and How to Make Them.

You will see by Fig. 256 that the lighting fixture shown in Fig. 255 consists of a screw-hook with its hooked end stuck through one of the little brass plates removed from another screw-hook, and then pushed into the hole in the end of a short piece of lead-pencil. Cut the pencil end about ½ inch long, push out the piece of lead, and if necessary enlarge the hole to accommodate the hook end. If the piece of pencil comes apart where glued, re-glue it. Glue the little brass cap to the top. Paint the pencil end white, to represent glass, and indicate metal division strips, or leading, with black paint or ink.

You will see by Fig. 256 that the light fixture shown in Fig. 255 consists of a screw-hook with its hooked end pushed through one of the small brass plates taken from another screw-hook, and then inserted into the hole at the end of a short piece of pencil. Cut the pencil end to about ½ inch long, remove the piece of lead, and if needed, make the hole larger to fit the hook end. If the piece of pencil separates where it's glued, re-glue it. Glue the small brass cap to the top. Paint the pencil end white to mimic glass, and use black paint or ink to indicate the metal division strips or leading.

The lighting fixture shown in Fig. 257 is made in the same way as the other one, except that a bead instead of the pencil end is used for a globe (Fig. 258).

The lighting fixture shown in Fig. 257 is made the same way as the other one, except that a bead is used for the globe instead of the pencil end (Fig. 258).

[Pg 173]

The fixture in Fig. 255 is better suited to the living-room and dining-room, and for fastening each side of the front door; the fixture in Fig. 257 is better for the other rooms.

The fixture in Fig. 255 is more suitable for the living room and dining room, and for securing each side of the front door; the fixture in Fig. 257 works better for the other rooms.

Decorating. Suggestions for decorating a doll-house are given in Chapter XIV, but here are some additional ideas to suit the conditions of the apartment. It is the modern practice to tint walls of apartments, and the best plan is to cover the walls of each room with plain paper, using a paper of a different color for each room.

Decorating. Suggestions for decorating a dollhouse are given in Chapter XIV, but here are some extra ideas to fit the style of the apartment. Nowadays, it's common to paint the walls of apartments, and the best approach is to cover the walls of each room with plain paper, using a different color paper for each room.

The dining-room should have a plate-rail on which to stand plates (pictures of plates cut from advertisements and pasted upon cardboard), and the walls below the plate-rail should be paneled with strips of cigar-box wood for division strips (Fig. 244).

The dining room should have a plate rail to hold plates (pictures of plates cut from ads and pasted onto cardboard), and the walls below the plate rail should be paneled with strips of cigar box wood for separation strips (Fig. 244).

The Outside Walls of the apartment building are supposedly brick; therefore paint them a good red, brown, or yellow brick color, and paint the roof cornice, and the horizontal bands between stories, white, as a contrast.

The Outside Walls of the apartment building are said to be brick; so paint them in a nice red, brown, or yellow brick color, and paint the roof cornice and the horizontal bands between floors white for contrast.

[Pg 174]

CHAPTER XVII

HOME-MADE DOLL FURNITURE

The metal furniture which you can buy is very pretty when it is new, but this new appearance does not last long after it has come into a youngster's possession, for the pieces are very slender and delicate, and thus easily broken.

The metal furniture you can buy looks really nice when it's new, but that fresh appearance doesn't last long once a young person gets hold of it, because the pieces are quite slim and fragile, making them easy to break.

Wooden furniture is the most durable kind, and plain and simple pieces will generally outlast the fancy ones. The designs illustrated in this chapter make very substantial pieces, as there are no spindle legs or fancy arms to break off. They follow the lines of the mission furniture, that simple style used in the early American mission schools, and which is to-day being extensively made in handsome pieces for the furnishings of modern homes. You will find the

Wooden furniture is the most durable type, and straightforward pieces usually last longer than elaborate ones. The designs shown in this chapter create very sturdy pieces, as there are no spindly legs or ornate arms that can break off. They follow the lines of mission furniture, a simple style used in the early American mission schools, which is now being widely produced in attractive pieces for modern home furnishings. You will find the

Miniature Mission Furniture, illustrated and described in this chapter, simple to make and something which is easy to sell, for there is nothing like it at present upon the market.

Miniature Mission Furniture, shown and explained in this chapter, is simple to create and easy to sell, as there's nothing like it available on the market right now.

Cigar-boxes furnish the nicest material for making this furniture, and the various parts can be cut to the right shape and size with

Cigar boxes provide the best material for making this furniture, and the different parts can be cut to the appropriate shape and size with

[Pg 175]

A Scroll-Saw. Procure small brads and glue with which to fasten the pieces together.

A Scroll-Saw. Get some small brads and glue to connect the pieces.

To Prepare the Cigar-boxes for use, place them in a tub of boiling water and let them remain there until the paper labels readily pull off. Do not use a knife in removing the paper, as it is likely to roughen the wood. The paper will come off by allowing it to soak long enough. When the boxes are clean, set them in the sun to dry, after binding the covers to the backs to prevent them from warping. Pull the boxes apart when they are thoroughly dry, and throw out such pieces as have printing upon them, for these would spoil the appearance of the furniture if used.

To Prepare the Cigar Boxes for use, put them in a tub of boiling water and leave them there until the paper labels come off easily. Don’t use a knife to remove the paper, as it can damage the wood. The paper will come off if you let it soak long enough. Once the boxes are clean, set them out in the sun to dry, making sure to bind the covers to the backs to prevent warping. When they’re completely dry, pull the boxes apart and discard any pieces that have printing on them, as these would ruin the look of the furniture if reused.

In order to simplify the matter of cutting the parts that make the furniture, the curved pieces have been drawn out carefully on page 177, so that they can be laid off upon the strips of cigar-boxes without any trouble, by the process of

In order to make it easier to cut the parts for the furniture, the curved pieces have been carefully outlined on page 177, so that they can be easily traced onto the strips of cigar boxes without any hassle, by the process of

Enlarging by Squares. These drawings are shown one-quarter of their full size (half their width and half their height). To enlarge them procure a piece of cardboard nine by thirteen inches, or a little larger than twice the size of the drawing each way, and divide it into squares just twice the size of those on page 177. That will make sixteen squares in the width of the cardboard and twenty-four in the length, each half an inch square. In order to get the squares spaced equally, it is best to lay off the points first with a ruler along the top, bottom, and two sides of the sheet of cardboard, and then connect the [Pg 176] points with the ruler and a sharp lead-pencil. Then number the squares as in the illustration, using the figures along the sides and letters across the top and bottom of the sheet.

Enlarging by Squares. These drawings are displayed at one-quarter of their actual size (half their width and half their height). To enlarge them, get a piece of cardboard that's nine by thirteen inches, or slightly larger than twice the size of the drawing in both dimensions, and divide it into squares that are twice the size of those on page 177. This will create sixteen squares across the width of the cardboard and twenty-four down the length, each measuring half an inch square. To ensure the squares are evenly spaced, it's best to mark the points first with a ruler along the top, bottom, and both sides of the cardboard, and then connect the [Pg 176] points using a ruler and a sharp pencil. After that, number the squares as shown in the illustration, using numbers along the sides and letters across the top and bottom of the sheet.

With the sheet of cardboard thus prepared it is a simple matter to

With the cardboard sheet ready, it's an easy task to

Reproduce the Drawings of Figs. 259 to 266 by locating the points of the curves and corners of the pieces, as shown in the illustrations, in corresponding positions in the squares on your cardboard sheet. The curves may be drawn in by eye, after locating them with reference to their surrounding squares, but the surest way of enlarging them accurately is by laying off the points where the curve strikes each horizontal and vertical line in the illustration, upon the enlarged drawing. These points can then be connected with a curved line.

Reproduce the Drawings of Figs. 259 to 266 by finding the points of the curves and corners of the pieces, as shown in the illustrations, in the matching positions in the squares on your cardboard sheet. You can sketch the curves by eye after locating them in relation to their surrounding squares, but the most accurate method for enlarging them is to mark the points where the curve hits each horizontal and vertical line in the illustration onto the enlarged drawing. Then, you can connect these points with a curved line.

Make all of the lines heavy so they can be distinguished from your guide lines, and after carefully going over the drawing, comparing it with that on page 177 to see that no mistake has been made in locating the points in enlarging, cut the various pieces apart. These will give you

Make all the lines bold so they stand out from your guide lines. After carefully reviewing the drawing and comparing it with the one on page 177 to ensure there are no mistakes in placing the points while enlarging, cut the different pieces apart. These will give you

The Patterns with which to mark out the pieces on the wood.

The Patterns to outline the pieces on the wood.

[Pg 177]

Figs. 259-266.—Patterns for Furniture.

Figs. 259-266.—Furniture Patterns.

[Pg 178]

We will first note the construction of

The Chairs shown in Figs. 267 and 268. These are four and one-half inches high, two inches wide, and an inch and one-half deep. Cut the back for the chair in Fig. 267 four and three-eighths inches high and an inch and three-quarters wide, the sides by the pattern in Fig. 259 and the seat an inch and one-quarter by an inch and three-quarters. With the pieces cut out, fasten them together with brads and glue, placing the seat between the arms and back so that it is an inch and one-half above the base.

The Chairs shown in Figs. 267 and 268. These are four and a half inches high, two inches wide, and one and a half inches deep. Cut the back for the chair in Fig. 267 four and three-eighths inches high and one and three-quarters inches wide, the sides by the pattern in Fig. 259, and the seat one and a quarter by one and three-quarters. With the pieces cut out, fasten them together with brads and glue, placing the seat between the arms and back so that it is one and a half inches above the base.

Fig. 267.—Chair.

Fig. 268.—Chair.

Cut the back for the other chair (Fig. 268) four and one-half inches high by two inches wide, the seat an inch and a quarter by an inch and three-quarters, and the sides an inch and three-eighths wide by two and one-half high. To get the curve in the bottom edge of the side pieces, use the pattern in Fig. 259.

Cut the back for the other chair (Fig. 268) four and a half inches high by two inches wide, the seat one and a quarter inches by one and three-quarters inches, and the sides one and three-eighths inches wide by two and a half inches high. To create the curve in the bottom edge of the side pieces, use the pattern in Fig. 259.

The Settee (Fig. 269) should have its sides cut by the pattern of Fig. 260. Make the back piece three and three-quarters [Pg 179] inches wide and three and one-quarter inches high, and the seat three and three-quarters inches by an inch and one-half. Fasten the seat against the back an inch and one-half above the base.

The Settee (Fig. 269) should have its sides cut according to the pattern of Fig. 260. Make the back piece three and three-quarters inches wide and three and one-quarter inches high, and the seat three and three-quarters inches by an inch and a half. Secure the seat against the back one and a half inches above the base.

Fig. 269.—A Settee.

Fig. 269.—A Couch.

Tables for the living-room, dining-room, bedroom, ball-room, and nursery of a doll-house may be patterned after the designs of Figs. 270 and 271. These should be two and one-half inches high to be of proper proportion for the chairs.

Tables for the living room, dining room, bedroom, ballroom, and nursery of a dollhouse can be inspired by the designs of Figs. 270 and 271. They should be two and a half inches high to match the proportions of the chairs.

Fig. 270.—A Table.

Fig. 270.—A Chart.

The pieces necessary to make Fig. 270 are a top two inches square, two sides an inch and one-half wide by two and one-half inches high, and a shelf an inch and one-quarter square. Fasten the pieces together as in the illustration, placing the shelf between the side pieces an inch from the bottom.

The pieces you need to make Fig. 270 are a top that measures two inches on each side, two sides that are one and a half inches wide by two and a half inches high, and a shelf that is one and a quarter inches square. Attach the pieces together as shown in the illustration, positioning the shelf between the side pieces one inch from the bottom.

[Pg 180]

The other design (Fig. 271) will do nicely for

The other design (Fig. 271) will work well for

A Dining-room Table, or table for the center of the living-room. The top of this should be five inches long and three inches wide. Cut the side pieces by the pattern in Fig. 261 and, after fastening them to the under side of the table-top four inches apart, brace them with a strip three and three-quarters inches long by half an inch wide, as shown in Fig. 271.

A Dining-room Table, or table for the center of the living room. The top of this should be five inches long and three inches wide. Cut the side pieces according to the pattern in Fig. 261, and after attaching them to the underside of the table top four inches apart, support them with a strip that is three and three-quarters inches long by half an inch wide, as illustrated in Fig. 271.

Fig. 271.—Another Design.

A Side-board similar to Fig. 272 should be made for the dining-room. The pattern for the side pieces is shown in Fig. 262. After sawing these out, cut a piece seven inches long by three inches wide for the back and fasten the side pieces to the edges of it. The location of the shelves can be obtained best by referring to Fig. 272 and the pattern in Fig. 262. Cut the bottom shelf (A in Fig. 272) three inches long by an inch and one-quarter wide and fasten it to the side pieces half an inch above the base (line 24 on pattern, Fig. 262). Make shelf B three by one inches and place it at line 22. C should be three and three-quarters inches long by an inch and one-half wide, with a small notch cut near each end with your knife, to make it fit over the side pieces (see illustration). [Pg 181] Cut shelf D three inches long by half an inch wide, fastening it in place at line No. 17, E three inches long by seven-sixteenths of an inch wide, fastening it at line No. 15, and F three inches long by three-eighths of an inch wide, fastening it at line No. 13. The top shelf (G) is three and three-quarters inches long and half an inch wide and is fastened to the tops of the side pieces as shown in the drawing.

A Sideboard similar to Fig. 272 should be made for the dining room. The pattern for the side pieces is shown in Fig. 262. After cutting these out, cut a piece that is seven inches long and three inches wide for the back, and attach the side pieces to its edges. The best way to find the location of the shelves is to refer to Fig. 272 and the pattern in Fig. 262. Cut the bottom shelf (A in Fig. 272) to be three inches long and one and a quarter inches wide, and attach it to the side pieces half an inch above the base (line 24 on the pattern, Fig. 262). Make shelf B three by one inches and place it at line 22. Shelf C should be three and three-quarters inches long by one and a half inches wide, with a small notch cut near each end using your knife, to allow it to fit over the side pieces (see illustration). [Pg 181] Cut shelf D to be three inches long and half an inch wide, attaching it at line No. 17, E to be three inches long and seven-sixteenths of an inch wide, attaching it at line No. 15, and F to be three inches long and three-eighths of an inch wide, attaching it at line No. 13. The top shelf (G) is three and three-quarters inches long and half an inch wide and is attached to the tops of the side pieces as shown in the drawing.

The lower portion of the side-board is inclosed with two doors two inches high by an inch and one-half wide. Small pieces of cloth may be used for hinges, but it is better to use pins, running them through the shelf above and below (A and C, Fig. 272) into the doors. Stick the pins near the edge of the doors and see that they are straight, so the doors will open easily. A small mirror attached to the back between shelves C and D will complete this piece of furniture.

The bottom section of the sideboard has two doors that are two inches high and one and a half inches wide. You can use small pieces of cloth as hinges, but it's better to use pins by running them through the shelf above and below (A and C, Fig. 272) into the doors. Position the pins close to the edges of the doors and make sure they are straight so the doors can open smoothly. Adding a small mirror to the back between shelves C and D will finish off this piece of furniture.

Fig. 272.—A Side-board.

Fig. 272.—A Sideboard.

Fig. 273.—A Mirror.

A Mirror in a frame should be made for the living-room of the doll-house. A neat and suitable design for [Pg 182] one of these will be seen in Fig. 273. For its construction cut two sides by means of the pattern in Fig. 263, a piece five inches long by three inches wide for the back, and a strip three inches long by three-eighths of an inch wide for a shelf. Fasten the sides to the edges of the back piece, and the shelf between the sides about three-quarters of an inch above the base. Now procure a mirror such as you can buy in a toy-shop for five or ten cents (or a piece of a broken mirror cut down to the right size will do very nicely), and attach it to the center of the back.

A Mirror in a frame should be made for the living room of the dollhouse. A neat and suitable design for one of these can be found in Fig. 273. For its construction, cut two sides using the pattern in Fig. 263, a piece that is five inches long by three inches wide for the back, and a strip that is three inches long by three-eighths of an inch wide for a shelf. Attach the sides to the edges of the back piece, and position the shelf between the sides about three-quarters of an inch above the base. Now get a mirror, like the ones you can buy at a toy store for five or ten cents (or a piece of a broken mirror cut down to the right size works perfectly), and stick it to the center of the back.

The Grandfather's Clock (Fig. 274) makes an effective piece of furniture for the hall or living-room, and is easily made. Figure 264 shows the pattern for the front of this clock. The back is made the same, with the omission of the square opening cut in the front frame for the clock-face. Cut a block of wood two by two by three-quarters inches to fit between the frames at the top. After nailing the pieces together, procure a face from a toy watch, and fasten it in the opening made for it in the front frame. A button suspended by means of a piece of thread from a tack placed in the bottom of the block forms the pendulum.

The Grandfather's Clock (Fig. 274) makes an attractive piece of furniture for the hallway or living room, and is easy to make. Figure 264 shows the pattern for the front of this clock. The back is made the same, without the square opening cut in the front frame for the clock face. Cut a block of wood measuring two by two by three-quarters inches to fit between the frames at the top. After nailing the pieces together, get a face from a toy watch, and attach it in the opening made for it in the front frame. A button suspended with a piece of thread from a tack placed at the bottom of the block serves as the pendulum.

It will be unnecessary to give any suggestions for

[Pg 183]

Fig. 274.—A Grandfather's Clock.

Fig. 274.—A Grandfather Clock.

Kitchen Furniture, such as chairs and tables, for these can also be made out of cigar-box wood similar to the designs illustrated in this chapter, with perhaps a few modifications which will make them simpler.

Kitchen Furniture, like chairs and tables, can also be made from cigar-box wood similar to the designs shown in this chapter, possibly with a few modifications to simplify them.

Now for the making of some pieces of bedroom furniture. You will find in Figs. 275 and 276 two designs that are easily carried out, one or both of which may be used for

Now let's create some bedroom furniture. You'll find in Figs. 275 and 276 two designs that are easy to make, and you can use either one or both for

The Beds of a doll-house. To make Fig. 275, cut the head and foot by means of the pattern in Fig. 265, and cut the two sides by means of the pattern in Fig. 266. After preparing these pieces and fastening them together as shown in the illustration (Fig. 275), cut a few strips a quarter of an inch wide for slats and fasten them between the sides of the bed. It is advisable to fasten these in place to prevent them from being lost.

The Beds of a dollhouse. To make Fig. 275, cut the head and foot using the pattern in Fig. 265, and cut the two sides using the pattern in Fig. 266. After preparing these pieces and attaching them together as shown in the illustration (Fig. 275), cut a few strips a quarter of an inch wide for slats and attach them between the sides of the bed. It's a good idea to secure these in place to prevent them from being lost.

The side pieces for the other bed (Fig. 276) are cut out with the same pattern (Fig. 266).

The side pieces for the other bed (Fig. 276) are cut out using the same pattern (Fig. 266).

[Pg 184]

Fig. 275.—A Bed.

Fig. 276.—Another Design.

Fig. 276.—Another Design Idea.

Make the head and foot pieces three by four and one-half inches, cutting a piece two by an inch and one-quarter out of the top of each as shown in the drawing (Fig. 2766), and using the pattern of the other bed for cutting the curve in [Pg 185] the bottom edge. Nail the pieces together in their proper places, after which cut some slats and fasten them in the bottom.

Make the head and foot pieces 3 by 4.5 inches, cutting a piece 2 by 1.25 inches out of the top of each as shown in the drawing (Fig. 2766), and using the pattern from the other bed to cut the curve in the bottom edge. Nail the pieces together in the correct positions, and then cut some slats and attach them to the bottom.

The Dresser (Fig. 277) is made somewhat similar to the side-board. Cut the sides by the same pattern (Fig. 262) and fasten them to the edges of the back piece, which should be six and one-half inches high by three inches wide. Cut shelf A three by one and one-quarter inches, B and C three by one and one-eighth, D three by one and three-sixteenths, and E and F one-half by one and one-quarter inches. Fasten shelf A between the sides at line No. 24 (see Fig. 262), B at line No. 23, C at line No. 22, D at line No. 21, and notch the ends of E and F to fit over the side pieces at line No. 20.

The Dresser (Fig. 277) is designed somewhat like the sideboard. Cut the sides according to the same pattern (Fig. 262) and attach them to the edges of the back piece, which should be six and a half inches high and three inches wide. Cut shelf A to be three by one and a quarter inches, B and C to be three by one and an eighth, D to be three by one and three sixteenths, and E and F to be half by one and a quarter inches. Secure shelf A between the sides at line No. 24 (see Fig. 262), B at line No. 23, C at line No. 22, D at line No. 21, and notch the ends of E and F to fit over the side pieces at line No. 20.

Fig. 277.—A Dresser.

Fig. 277.—A Chest of Drawers.

Drawers to fit the lower shelves of the dresser may be made out of small strips of cigar-boxes or pieces of cardboard, glued together. A small mirror fastened in the position shown in the drawing will complete the work upon this piece of furniture.

Drawers for the lower shelves of the dresser can be made from small strips of cigar boxes or pieces of cardboard, glued together. A small mirror attached in the position shown in the drawing will finish off this piece of furniture.

[Pg 186]

A Wash-Stand can be made for the bathroom and each of the bedrooms similar to Fig. 278. The sides for this should be five inches high by an inch and one-quarter wide, and the shelves one by three inches. Fasten the lower shelf three-quarters of an inch above the base, and the top shelf at a height of two and one-half inches. When the stand has been put together, fit a round stick, about an eighth of an inch in diameter, in holes made in the sides with a gimlet (see illustration). This forms the towel-rack. Hang a small drapery over the lower portion of the s tand.

A Wash-Stand can be made for the bathroom and each of the bedrooms similar to Fig. 278. The sides for this should be five inches high and one and a quarter inches wide, and the shelves should be one by three inches. Attach the lower shelf three-quarters of an inch above the base, and position the top shelf at a height of two and a half inches. After assembling the stand, insert a round stick, about an eighth of an inch in diameter, into holes drilled in the sides with a gimlet (see illustration). This will serve as the towel rack. Drape a small curtain over the lower part of the stand.

Fig. 278.—A Wash-Stand.

Fig. 278.—A Sink Stand.

Finishing. When the pieces of furniture have been completed, they should be rubbed down with emery-paper to remove the rough edges, and also any rough places that may have been caused by soaking the boxes in water. Then give the wood several coats of linseed-oil. This makes a beautiful finish for this kind of wood, which may be improved by adding a coat of wax. The little hearts may be painted upon the pieces as shown in the illustration, with a small brush and red paint, or may be cut out of red paper and glued to the wood.

Finishing. Once the furniture pieces are completed, they should be sanded down with emery paper to smooth out any rough edges and spots that may have formed from soaking the boxes in water. Then, apply several coats of linseed oil to the wood. This creates a lovely finish for this type of wood, which can be enhanced by adding a layer of wax. The little hearts can be painted on the pieces as shown in the illustration, using a small brush and red paint, or they can be cut out of red paper and glued to the wood.

If desired, the bedroom furniture may be painted with white enamel.

If you want, the bedroom furniture can be painted with white enamel.

[Pg 187]

Other Cigar-box Furniture

Other Cigar Box Furniture

Fig. 279.—A Doll's Folding-bed.

Fig. 279.—A Doll's Bedroll.

In Figs. 279 and Fig. 282 will be found some pieces of furniture that are simpler to make than those just described, and although they may not be so pretty, they present a very good appearance when neatly made.

In Figs. 279 and Fig. 282 you will find some furniture pieces that are easier to make than the ones just described, and although they might not be as attractive, they look quite nice when finished neatly.

The author constructed many pieces of this furniture when a boy, and found them suitable as presents, and something that was always easy to sell.

The author made a lot of this furniture when he was a kid, and found it great for gifts and something that was always easy to sell.

The cost of making a set amounts to but a few cents, cigar-boxes being the principal material. They are also very quickly made, as the boxes require but little cutting.

The cost of making a set is just a few cents, with cigar boxes being the main material. They are also made quickly since the boxes need very little cutting.

For the construction of

For building of

A Folding-bed, such as is shown in Figs. 279 and 280, select two cigar-boxes, one of which will fit inside the other. The smaller box should be a little shorter than the inside opening of the larger box.

A Folding-bed, like the one shown in Figs. 279 and 280, choose two cigar boxes, where one fits inside the other. The smaller box should be slightly shorter than the inner opening of the larger box.

[Pg 188]

Fig. 280.—Folding-bed (open).
Fig. 281.—Foot.

Fig. 280.—Folding bed (open).
Fig. 281.—Foot.

After removing the paper from each, place the smaller box inside the larger one, as shown in Fig. 279, so that the bottom of the inner box is flush with the edge of the outer box. Then drive a brad through both boxes on each side, about three-quarters of an inch from the end as shown at A (Fig. 279). These brads should run through the outer box into the bottom of the inner box, and should be driven in carefully so as not to split the wood. The inner box should now fold down as shown in Fig. 280, moving upon the brad pivots. [Pg 189] Purchase a five or ten cent mirror and fasten it to the front of the bed, after which cut two wooden feet similar to Fig. 281 and glue the pegs on the ends of these in gimlet holes made above the mirror. Finish the wood the same as described for the other cigar-box furniture.

After taking the paper off each box, place the smaller one inside the larger box, as shown in Fig. 279, making sure the bottom of the inner box is even with the edge of the outer box. Then, nail a brad through both boxes on each side, about three-quarters of an inch from the end, as shown at A (Fig. 279). These brads should go through the outer box and into the bottom of the inner box and should be inserted carefully to avoid splitting the wood. The inner box should now fold down as shown in Fig. 280, pivoting on the brad hinges. [Pg 189] Buy a five or ten cent mirror and attach it to the front of the bed, then cut two wooden feet similar to Fig. 281 and glue the pegs on the ends of these into the pilot holes made above the mirror. Finish the wood just like you did for the other cigar-box furniture.

Fig. 282.—Dresser Completed.

Fig. 282.—Finished Dresser.

Fig. 283.—A Doll's Dresser.

Fig. 283.—Doll Dresser.

The Dresser shown in Fig. 282 is made out of a box the same size as the larger one used for the folding-bed. Saw the sides of the box in half, crosswise, and remove the upper half and the end piece. Then nail the end across the tops of the remaining halves of the sides. When this has been done, divide up the lower portion of the box into compartments as shown in the drawing (Fig. 283). This [Pg 190] should have a small drapery hung over it. The upper portion of the dresser should have a mirror attached to it, and some lace draped over the top and sides will add greatly to its appearance.

The Dresser shown in Fig. 282 is made from a box the same size as the larger one used for the folding bed. Cut the sides of the box in half horizontally, and remove the upper half and the end piece. Then, nail the end across the tops of the remaining sides. Once that's done, divide the lower part of the box into compartments as shown in the drawing (Fig. 283). This [Pg 190] should have a small curtain hung over it. The top part of the dresser should have a mirror attached, and some lace draped over the top and sides will enhance its look significantly.

All you will have to do in making

All you need to do in making

A Wardrobe will be to fasten some small hooks inside of a cigar-box, attach the cover with a strip of linen—the same way it was attached before you soaked it off—and hang a mirror on the front.

A Wardrobe will be to secure some small hooks inside a cigar box, reattach the cover with a strip of linen—the same way it was attached before you soaked it off—and hang a mirror on the front.

These pieces of furniture were designed for separate sets, and would not do for doll-houses the size of those in the preceding chapters, unless the boxes were cut down to smaller proportions.

These pieces of furniture were made for specific sets and wouldn’t work for dollhouses the size of those in the previous chapters, unless the boxes were sized down to smaller dimensions.

[Pg 191]

CHAPTER XVIII

HOME-MADE CIGAR-BOX TOYS

Cigar-boxes are splendid material for a variety of home-made toys. In this chapter are shown some easily constructed wagons, a Jack-in-the-box, a cradle, and several tables and chairs of a different pattern from the doll furniture for which working drawings were given in the preceding chapter.

Cigar boxes are great for making all kinds of homemade toys. In this chapter, you’ll find instructions for creating easy-to-build wagons, a Jack-in-the-box, a cradle, and several tables and chairs that are different from the doll furniture for which working drawings were provided in the previous chapter.

Get an assortment of shapes and sizes of boxes at a cigar store, and prepare them for use as directed on page 175. Use ³/₈ inch and ½ inch brads, and glue, for fastening the pieces together.

Get a variety of box shapes and sizes at a cigar store, and prepare them for use as instructed on page 175. Use ³/₈ inch and ½ inch brads, along with glue, to secure the pieces together.

A scroll-saw, bracket-saw, coping-saw, or a very sharp jack-knife should be used where

A scroll saw, a bracket saw, a coping saw, or a very sharp utility knife should be used where

Cutting is necessary. Do not attempt to split the wood, as the grain is seldom straight, but lay it down upon a board and score it with a knife in the way in which you would score a piece of cardboard; then break it along the scored line, or continue cutting until the piece is cut in two. If you use a saw, cut a little away from the outlines of the work and then trim up with a knife and sandpaper.

Cutting is essential. Don’t try to split the wood, since the grain is rarely straight. Instead, lay it on a board and score it with a knife, just like you would score a piece of cardboard. Then break it along the scored line or keep cutting until the piece is separated. If you’re using a saw, cut slightly outside the outlines of your project, then finish it up with a knife and sandpaper.

The wagons, Jack-in-the-box, and doll furniture shown in this chapter were designed with the idea of saving as [Pg 192] much cutting as possible, and you will see by the illustrations that in many cases the boxes are not altered.

The wagons, Jack-in-the-box, and doll furniture shown in this chapter were designed to minimize cutting as much as possible, and you can see in the illustrations that in many cases the boxes remain unchanged.

Fig. 286.—Cross-section of the Express-wagon.

Fig. 286.—Cross-section of the delivery van.

The Express-wagon shown in Fig. 284 is made out of a long flat box. Cut down the sides at the front and construct a seat on top of the sides as shown in Fig. 286. Cut the front wheels about 2¼ inches in diameter and the rear wheels about 2¾ inches in diameter. If you haven't a compass with which to describe the circles, you can mark out the wheels with cups or glass tumblers. Cut the wooden axles as shown in Fig. 286, making the front axle—for the smaller wheels—deeper than the rear one, then fasten them to the wagon and nail the wheels to their ends. Drive a tack into the front of the wagon-box and tie a cord to it, or, if you have a small toy horse to hitch to the wagon, fasten a pair of shafts to the under side of the box as is shown upon the two-wheel cart.

The Express-wagon shown in Fig. 284 is made from a long flat box. Cut down the sides at the front and build a seat on top of the sides as shown in Fig. 286. Cut the front wheels to about 2¼ inches in diameter and the rear wheels to about 2¾ inches in diameter. If you don't have a compass to draw the circles, you can use cups or glass tumblers to mark out the wheels. Cut the wooden axles as shown in Fig. 286, making the front axle—for the smaller wheels—deeper than the rear one. Then attach them to the wagon and nail the wheels to their ends. Drive a tack into the front of the wagon box and tie a cord to it, or, if you have a small toy horse to attach to the wagon, secure a pair of shafts to the underside of the box as shown on the two-wheel cart.

The Cart in Fig. 285 is made out of a square flat box with its wheels fastened to the center of the under side. Make the wheels about 2¾ inches in diameter.

The Cart in Fig. 285 is made from a square flat box with its wheels attached to the center of the bottom. Make the wheels about 2¾ inches in diameter.

Fig. 284.—An Express-wagon.

Fig. 284.—A Delivery Truck.

Fig. 285.—A Cart.

Fig. 285.—A Car.

[Pg 193]

The Auto Delivery-wagon (Figs. 287 and 288. See Frontispiece) requires two boxes 8½ inches long, 5 inches wide, and 2½ inches deep. You will see by the illustrations that one box is inverted upon the other. Before fastening them together, remove the two ends of the upper box and the rear end of the lower box (leaving the front end for the dashboard), and cut 2 inches off the sides at the front and an additional piece 1 inch by 1¾ inches from the sides of the upper box for windows. Fasten the boxes together by nailing strips to the ends of side pieces. Nail a narrow strip across the top of the rear end of the wagon and hinge a drop end-gate to the wagon-bed with cloth strips. Support the end-gate with a cloth strap. Tack a curtain of black cloth to the top cross strip and sew two cloth straps to the curtain, so that it may be fastened up in a roll, as shown in the photograph. Make the wheels and axles like those of the express wagon, but cut the front and rear wheels, also the two axles, of equal size. Cut out a small steering-wheel and fasten it on a short wooden rod inside of the dashboard. Make a seat and seat back, nail the back to the seat, and then fasten the seat between the sides of the wagon just below the windows.

The Auto Delivery Wagon (Figs. 287 and 288. See Frontispiece) requires two boxes that are 8½ inches long, 5 inches wide, and 2½ inches deep. As you can see in the illustrations, one box sits upside down on top of the other. Before you connect them, take off the two ends of the upper box and the back end of the lower box (keeping the front end for the dashboard), and trim 2 inches off the front sides and an extra piece measuring 1 inch by 1¾ inches from the sides of the upper box for windows. Attach the boxes together by nailing strips to the edges of the side pieces. Nail a narrow strip across the top of the back end of the wagon and attach a drop end-gate to the wagon bed using cloth strips. Support the end-gate with a cloth strap. Attach a curtain made of black cloth to the top cross strip and sew two cloth straps to the curtain so you can roll it up, as shown in the photograph. Make the wheels and axles similar to those of the express wagon, but cut the front and rear wheels, as well as the two axles, to the same size. Cut out a small steering wheel and attach it to a short wooden rod inside the dashboard. Create a seat and seat back, nail the back to the seat, and then secure the seat between the sides of the wagon just below the windows.

A Jack-in-the-box (Fig. 289) is a simpler toy to make than you might imagine. The box should measure about 5¾ inches by 5¾ inches by 5 inches. Hinge the cover to the top with two pieces of heavy cloth; glue one piece to the inside of the cover and box, and the other to the outside. Drive a small tack into the front edge of the cover, and below it fasten a small hook on to the box; the hook may be bent from a short piece of wire.

A Jack-in-the-box (Fig. 289) is an easier toy to make than you might think. The box should be about 5¾ inches by 5¾ inches by 5 inches. Attach the cover to the top using two pieces of sturdy cloth; glue one piece to the inside of the cover and the box, and the other to the outside. Insert a small tack into the front edge of the cover, and below it, attach a small hook to the box; the hook can be bent from a short piece of wire.

A spiral spring from an old bed-spring will do for Jack's body, but if you cannot get one of these it is a simple [Pg 194] matter to make a spring. Take a piece of No. 12 gauge wire about 10 feet in length and wind it around a rolling-pin or anything that is cylindrical and about 2½ inches in diameter. Fasten this spring with doubled-pointed tacks upon a piece of wood cut to fit the inside of the box (Fig. 290), then procure a small doll's head, baste a circular piece of cardboard to the top of the spring and to this sew the head. Make a cloth fool's cap to glue on Jack's head, covering his hair entirely, and also a loose jacket to fit over his spiral body; for these use any bright-colored cotton cloth that will fall into folds easily. Tack the base of the spring to the bottom of the box.

A spiral spring from an old bed frame will work for Jack's body, but if you can't find one, it's easy to make a spring. Take a piece of No. 12 gauge wire about 10 feet long and wrap it around a rolling pin or anything cylindrical that's about 2½ inches in diameter. Secure this spring with doubled-pointed tacks onto a piece of wood cut to fit inside the box (Fig. 290). Then, get a small doll's head, attach a circular piece of cardboard to the top of the spring, and sew the head to it. Create a cloth fool's cap to stick on Jack's head, covering his hair completely, and make a loose jacket to fit over his spiral body; for these, use any bright-colored cotton fabric that drapes well. Attach the base of the spring to the bottom of the box.

Leg of Dining-table. Pedestal of Center-table.

Fig. 297.—Leg of Dining-table.
Fig. 296.—Pedestal of Center-table.

Fig. 297.—Leg of Dining Table.
Fig. 296.—Pedestal of Center Table.

Make the seat for

The Round-seated Chair shown in Fig. 291 2 inches in diameter, the back 5 inches high, 2 inches wide at the top, and 1¼ inches wide at the seat; cut the front leg 2¹/₈ inches high by 1¼ inches wide.

The Round Center-table (Fig. 292) should have a base built up of four strips as shown in Fig. 296. Cut the circular top 5 inches in diameter. A saucer may be used with which to mark this out.

The Round Center-table (Fig. 292) should have a base made of four strips as shown in Fig. 296. Cut the circular top to be 5 inches in diameter. You can use a saucer to trace this out.

Select a long flat box for

The Dining-table shown in Fig. 293, and after making four built-up legs as shown in Fig. 297 fasten them into the four corners of the box table top with brads and glue.

The Dining-table shown in Fig. 293, and after making four solid legs as shown in Fig. 297, attach them into the four corners of the box table top with nails and glue.

Doll's Cradle, Round-seated Chair, Jack-in-the-box, Round Center-table.

Dining-table, Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-box, Square-seated Chair.

[Pg 195]

In making the little

In making the small

Square-seated Chair (Fig. 294), cut the seat about 2 inches wide by 2¼ inches deep, the front legs 2¹/₈ inches high by ³/₈ inch wide, and the back legs 4½ inches high by ³/₈ inch wide. Brace the legs and back with crosspieces, and you will have a very firm and artistic dining-room chair.

Square-seated Chair (Fig. 294), make the seat approximately 2 inches wide and 2¼ inches deep, the front legs 2¹/₈ inches high and ³/₈ inch wide, and the back legs 4½ inches high and ³/₈ inch wide. Strengthen the legs and back with crosspieces, and you'll create a sturdy and stylish dining room chair.

Select a box about 9 inches by 5 inches by 2¼ inches in size for making

Select a box that measures about 9 inches by 5 inches by 2¼ inches for making

The Doll's Cradle shown in Fig. 295. Cut the two rockers by the pattern in Fig. 298 and fasten them to the bottom of the box 1 inch from the ends. Use the rim of a breakfast plate in drawing the arc of the rockers; then draw the rounded ends, being careful to get them alike. Saw out the rockers very particularly so as not to split off the ends. Fasten the pieces to the cradle box with brads driven through the box bottom into their top edge.

The Doll's Cradle shown in Fig. 295. Cut the two rockers using the pattern in Fig. 298 and attach them to the bottom of the box 1 inch from the ends. Use the rim of a breakfast plate to draw the curve of the rockers; then draw the rounded ends, making sure they match. Cut out the rockers carefully to avoid splitting the ends. Secure the pieces to the cradle box with brads driven through the bottom of the box into their top edge.

Fig. 298.—Pattern for Cradle Rockers.

Fig. 298.—Design for Cradle Rockers.

After the cigar-box toys have been made, rub down the wood with fine sandpaper. Then drive all nail-heads below the surface, fill up the holes with putty stained to match the wood as nearly as possible, and finish with two coats of boiled linseed-oil. Apply the oil with a rag, then wipe off all surplus oil with a dry cloth.

After making the cigar-box toys, smooth the wood using fine sandpaper. Next, push all the nail heads below the surface, fill the holes with putty that closely matches the wood, and finish with two coats of boiled linseed oil. Apply the oil with a rag, and then wipe off any excess oil with a dry cloth.

[Pg 196]

CHAPTER XIX

HOME-MADE SPOOL AND CARDBOARD TOYS

Fig. 299.—Doll Carriage.

Fig. 299.—Toy Stroller.

All that is required for making the little toys shown in this chapter are spools, cardboard, paper, a straight-grained stick out of which to cut pegs, some tacks, pins, and glue.

All you need to make the little toys shown in this chapter are spools, cardboard, paper, a straight-grained stick to cut pegs from, some tacks, pins, and glue.

Did you ever see a better model of

Did you ever see a better example of

A Baby Carriage than that shown in Fig. 299, with its rounded ends, arched bottom, and adjustable hood? It is easy to make.

A Baby Carriage than that shown in Fig. 299, with its rounded ends, curved bottom, and adjustable hood? It's simple to make.

Figure 300 shows the details for constructing the carriage [Pg 197] body. Cut four wooden pegs to fit loosely in the holes of four spools of equal size, and make them of the right length so when slipped into the holes their ends will project about ¼ inch beyond the spool ends. Then cut the bottom strip B 5 inches long by the width of the spools, bend it slightly as shown, to give a curve to the carriage bottom, and tack the ends of the strip to two of the spools (A).

Figure 300 shows the details for building the carriage [Pg 197] body. Cut four wooden pegs to fit loosely in the holes of four spools of the same size, and make sure they’re the right length so that when inserted into the holes, their ends stick out about ¼ inch beyond the ends of the spools. Next, cut the bottom strip B to be 5 inches long and the width of the spools, bend it slightly as shown to create a curve for the carriage bottom, and tack the ends of the strip to two of the spools (A).

Figs. 300-302.—Details of Doll Carriage.

Figs. 300-302.—Doll Carriage Details.

The sides C are of cardboard and should be 1½ inches wide at the widest point, by the length of the carriage body. Punch holes through these side pieces in the right places for the ends of the pegs in spools A to stick through.

The sides C are made of cardboard and should be 1½ inches wide at the widest point, matching the length of the carriage body. Punch holes in these side pieces in the correct spots so that the ends of the pegs in spools A can go through.

Before fastening the side pieces to spools A, you must attach the wheels (Figs. 301 and 302). Cut the cardboard [Pg 198] uprights D 3½ inches long and ½ inch wide; then after cutting holes through each near the ends, for the spool pegs to slip through, cut down the width between the holes to about ¼ inch (Fig. 302). Slip the lower ends of uprights D over the pegs in spool wheels E, then the upper ends over the pegs in spools A. Glue the upper ends to the ends of spools A, then slip the carriage sides C over the pegs of spools A, and glue them in place.

Before attaching the side pieces to spools A, you need to attach the wheels (Figs. 301 and 302). Cut the cardboard uprights D to be 3½ inches long and ½ inch wide; then, after cutting holes near the ends for the spool pegs to fit through, trim the width between the holes to about ¼ inch (Fig. 302). Slide the lower ends of uprights D onto the pegs in spool wheels E, then position the upper ends over the pegs in spools A. Glue the upper ends to the ends of spools A, then slide the carriage sides C onto the pegs of spools A, and glue them in place.

Fig. 303.—Baby Carriage Hood.
Fig. 304.—Diagram of Hood.
Fig. 305.—Carriage Handles.

Fig. 303.—Baby Stroller Canopy.
Fig. 304.—Hood Diagram.
Fig. 305.—Stroller Handles.

The carriage hood (Fig. 303) is made of a piece of stiff paper about 4½ inches square (Fig. 304), slashed in three [Pg 199] places along two opposite edges for a distance of about 1½ inches, and then folded over as indicated by dotted lines. Bring together the ends of the slashed edges of the piece of paper, as shown in Fig. 303, coat them with glue, and press together until the glue has dried. Punch a hole through each side of the top, as shown, for the projecting ends of the spool peg to slip through.

The carriage hood (Fig. 303) is made from a stiff piece of paper that’s about 4½ inches square (Fig. 304). It has three cuts along two opposite edges, each about 1½ inches long, and then it’s folded over as shown by the dotted lines. Bring the ends of the cut edges together, as illustrated in Fig. 303, apply some glue to them, and press them together until the glue dries. Punch a hole through each side of the top, as shown, so the ends of the spool peg can slip through.

Fig. 306.—The Two-wheel Cart.

Fig. 306.—The Two-Wheeled Cart.

Figs. 307-309.—Details of Cart.

Figs. 307-309.—Cart Details.

The carriage handle is made of two cardboard strips (F, Fig. 305), and a match (G). Stick the match through holes made near the ends of strips F, and glue the lower ends of the strips to the inside face of the sides (Fig. 299). This completes the carriage.

The carriage handle is made of two cardboard strips (F, Fig. 305), and a match (G). Push the match through the holes made near the ends of strips F, and glue the bottom ends of the strips to the inside face of the sides (Fig. 299). This finishes the carriage.

The Two-wheel Cart (Fig. 306) is made of a small box cover, and one of the spools on which crochet-cotton comes. Prepare a bent piece of cardboard like that shown in Fig. 308, with ends A turned down at the proper points so there will be only room enough between them for the spool to turn freely. Punch a hole through each turned down end for a stick axle to run through.

The Two-wheel Cart (Fig. 306) is made from a small box cover and one of the spools that crochet cotton comes on. Create a bent piece of cardboard like the one shown in Fig. 308, with ends A turned down at the right spots so there’s just enough space between them for the spool to spin freely. Punch a hole through each turned-down end for a stick axle to go through.

[Pg 200]

Fig. 310.—Merry-go-round.
Fig. 311.—Teeter.
Fig. 312.—Cardboard Strip for Merry-go-round and Teeter.

Fig. 310.—Merry-go-round.
Fig. 311.—Seesaw.
Fig. 312.—Cardboard Strip for Merry-go-round and Seesaw.

Fig. 313.—Boy and Girl Riders for Merry-go-round and Teeter.

Fig. 313.—Boy and Girl Riders for Carousel and Teeter-totter.

Then cut two slots through the box cover the same distance apart as ends A (Fig. 307), centering the pair both crosswise and lengthwise of the cover, and stick ends A through the slots and glue portion B to the cover. Cut the wheel axle enough smaller than the spool hole so the spool will turn easily, then push it through the hole in the spool and the holes in ends A.

Then make two slots in the box cover, spaced the same distance apart as ends A (Fig. 307), centering the pair both horizontally and vertically on the cover. Insert ends A through the slots and glue portion B to the cover. Cut the wheel axle a bit smaller than the spool hole so the spool can turn easily, then push it through the hole in the spool and the holes in ends A.

[Pg 201]

Glue the end of a cardboard strip to the under side of the cover for a shaft.

Glue the end of a cardboard strip to the underside of the cover for a shaft.

The Toy Merry-go-round in Fig. 310 consists of a strip of heavy cardboard turned up at its ends (Fig. 312), tacked at its center to the end of a stick cut small enough to turn easily in the hole in a spool.

The Toy Merry-go-round in Fig. 310 is made of a strip of heavy cardboard that is bent up at both ends (Fig. 312), secured at its center to the end of a stick that’s small enough to spin easily in the hole of a spool.

Fig. 314.—Doll Swing.
Fig. 315.—Detail of Swing.

The spool slipped over the stick is grasped by the right hand, and the left hand starts the merry-go-round and keeps it in motion by twirling the stick to which the cardboard strip is fastened.

The spool that slipped over the stick is held by the right hand, while the left hand starts the merry-go-round and keeps it going by spinning the stick that the cardboard strip is attached to.

The boy and girl riders, shown in Fig. 313 are of the right size so you can trace them off upon a piece of tracing-paper and then transfer to cardboard. After cutting them out of the cardboard, color both sides with crayons or water-colors, and glue them to the turned-up ends of the cardboard strip.

The boy and girl riders, shown in Fig. 313, are the perfect size for you to trace onto a piece of tracing paper and then transfer to cardboard. Once you cut them out of the cardboard, color both sides with crayons or watercolors, and attach them to the folded-up ends of the cardboard strip.

The Teeter-Board (Fig. 311) is made of the same kind of a strip as that used for the merry-go-round (Fig. 312). Tack this strip at its center to the side of a spool, and mount the spool in a cardboard frame in the same way that the [Pg 202] spool wheels of the cart are mounted (Figs. 308 and 309); but make the peg axle to fit tight in the spool hole. Prepare a boy and girl rider similar to those made for the merry-go-round (Fig. 313).

The Teeter-Board (Fig. 311) is made from the same type of strip as the one used for the merry-go-round (Fig. 312). Attach this strip at its center to the side of a spool and mount the spool in a cardboard frame just like the way the [Pg 202] spool wheels of the cart are mounted (Figs. 308 and 309); but ensure that the peg axle fits snugly in the spool hole. Prepare a boy and girl rider similar to those created for the merry-go-round (Fig. 313).

The teeter is operated by turning the end of the spool axle first one way then the other.

The teeter is used by turning the end of the spool axle back and forth.

Figs. 316 and 317.—Details of Swing Seat.

The Doll Swing shown in Fig. 314 has a cardboard base, with two spools fastened to it 4 inches apart to support the framework. Tack the base to the ends of the spools. The framework uprights are tightly rolled tubes of paper 10 or 12 inches long, and the top crosspiece is another paper tube 4 inches long. Stick the lower ends of the uprights into the spool holes; then fasten the crosspiece to their tops by running pins through it and into the upright ends (Fig. 315), and then lashing the connections with thread as shown in Fig. 314.

The Doll Swing shown in Fig. 314 has a cardboard base, with two spools attached to it 4 inches apart to support the frame. Secure the base to the ends of the spools. The vertical supports are tightly rolled tubes of paper that are 10 or 12 inches long, and the top crosspiece is another paper tube 4 inches long. Insert the lower ends of the vertical supports into the spool holes; then attach the crosspiece to their tops by pushing pins through it and into the ends of the supports (Fig. 315), and then tying the connections with thread as shown in Fig. 314.

Fig. 318.—Sofa.

Fig. 318.—Couch.

The swing seat is made of a spool with a cardboard [Pg 203] back fastened to it (Figs. 316 and 317). Suspend the spool with thread from the top of the swing crosspiece.

The swing seat is made from a spool with a cardboard [Pg 203] back attached to it (Figs. 316 and 317). Hang the spool with thread from the top of the swing’s crosspiece.

Figs. 319-321.—Details of Sofa.

Figs. 319-321.—Sofa Details.

A Sofa with arm rolls, like that shown in Fig. 318, is a good example of what can be made in spool-and-cardboard doll furniture. Prepare the seat and back out of a single piece of cardboard, curving the top and ends of the back as shown, and making the width of the seat the same as the length of the spool arms. Fasten the spools by means of a strip of paper bent over them as shown in Fig. 320, and glued to the seat. Use small silk-thread spools (Fig. 321) for feet, and glue them to the seat at the four corners.

A Sofa with rolled arms, like the one pictured in Fig. 318, is a great example of what you can create with spool-and-cardboard doll furniture. Cut the seat and back from a single piece of cardboard, rounding the top and ends of the back as shown, and ensure the width of the seat matches the length of the spool arms. Secure the spools with a strip of paper wrapped over them as demonstrated in Fig. 320, and glue it to the seat. Use small silk-thread spools (Fig. 321) as feet, and glue them to the seat at each corner.

The Chair (Fig. 322) has a seat and back made out of a [Pg 204] single piece of cardboard, with one-third of its length bent out for the seat. Glue the seat to a spool base.

The Chair (Fig. 322) has a seat and back made from a [Pg 204] single piece of cardboard, with one-third of its length folded out for the seat. Attach the seat to a spool base with glue.

The Square Center-table (Fig. 323) has a crochet-cotton spool pedestal, and its top is a square piece of cardboard. Glue the spool to the exact center of the top.

The Square Center-table (Fig. 323) has a crochet-cotton spool base, and its top is a square piece of cardboard. Secure the spool to the precise center of the top.

The Round Center-table (Fig. 324) is made similarly. Use the rim of a cup for marking out the circular top.

The Round Center-table (Fig. 324) is made in a similar way. Use the edge of a cup to outline the round top.

With a little ingenuity you will be able to devise a great many other pieces of doll furniture, and other toys as well.

With a bit of creativity, you can come up with plenty of other doll furniture and toys too.

[Pg 205]

CHAPTER XX

A HOME-MADE TOY MAIL-BOX

Who wants to play at being Uncle Sam, and have a postal system right in the house, or out on the front porch where it will be convenient for the children next door to enjoy it, too? Every small boy and girl loves to play postman, collect mail from the toy mail-box, cancel the stamps, sort out the letters into the proper routes, and then deliver them to those whom they are addressed to.

Who wants to pretend to be Uncle Sam and have a postal system right in their house or out on the front porch where kids next door can enjoy it too? Every little boy and girl loves to play postman, collect mail from the toy mailbox, stamp the letters, sort them into the right routes, and then deliver them to the intended recipients.

The mail-box shown in Figs. 325 and 326 is easily made, and with

The mailboxes shown in Figs. 325 and 326 are easy to make, and with

The Working Material on hand can be completed in an evening. Two sheets of cardboard, a piece of muslin, some silver paper or paint, a piece of tape about 2 yards long, and a needle and thread, are required. The cardboard should be stiff enough to hold its shape, and yet be of light enough weight to cut and fold easily. Sheets 22 inches by 28 inches can be bought at any printing-shop, and at some stationery stores, and will not cost more than 10 cents a sheet at the most. If you have some large cardboard boxes, however, you can use them instead by so laying out the different parts that the corners of the boxes will come in the right places for the corners of the mail-box.

The Working Material you need can be put together in just one evening. You'll need two sheets of cardboard, a piece of muslin, some silver paper or paint, a tape about 2 yards long, and a needle and thread. The cardboard should be stiff enough to retain its shape but light enough to cut and fold easily. Sheets measuring 22 inches by 28 inches can be purchased at any print shop or some stationery stores, and they should cost no more than 10 cents each at most. If you have some large cardboard boxes, you can use those instead by arranging the different parts so that the corners of the boxes align with the corners of the mailbox.

[Pg 206]

Figure 327 shows the diagrams for

__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ displays the diagrams for

Fig. 327.—Diagram for Making Sides, Ends, and Bottom of Mail-box.
Fig. 328.—Diagram for Making Top.
Fig. 329.—Diagram for Making End Pieces of Letter-drop.
Fig. 330.—Diagram for Making Front Piece of Letter-drop.

Fig. 327.—Diagram for Creating Sides, Ends, and Bottom of Mailbox.
Fig. 328.—Diagram for Creating Top.
Fig. 329.—Diagram for Creating End Pieces of Letter Drop.
Fig. 330.—Diagram for Creating Front Piece of Letter Drop.

Making the Sides, Ends, and Bottom of the mail-box, with the dimensions of every portion marked upon them. Use a ruler with which to guide your pencil in drawing the straight lines, and a compass or the rim of a 9-inch plate for describing the arcs for the round tops of the end pieces. You will see that the front, one end, and the bottom are made in one piece, and that the back, other end, and a second bottom (to make that portion doubly strong) are cut from another piece.

Creating the Sides, Ends, and Bottom of the mailbox, with the dimensions of each part clearly marked. Use a ruler to guide your pencil in drawing straight lines, and a compass or the edge of a 9-inch plate to create the arcs for the rounded tops of the end pieces. You'll notice that the front, one end, and the bottom are all made from a single piece, while the back, the other end, and a second bottom (to reinforce that section) are cut from a different piece.

Fig. 325.—The Home-made Mail-box Strapped to the Face of a Door.

Fig. 325.—The DIY Mailbox Fastened to the Front of a Door.

Fig. 326.—The Home-made Mail-box Strapped to a Chair Back.

Fig. 326.—The DIY Mailbox Attached to a Chair Back.

[Pg 207]

Fig. 331.—The Sides, Ends, and Bottom folded ready to be put Together.

Fig. 331.—The sides, ends, and bottom are folded and ready to be assembled.

The dotted lines upon the diagram indicate where the cardboard should be folded. Figure 331 shows the sides, ends, and bottom folded ready to be put together. Turn the flaps inside, and glue them to the end pieces, and glue the two bottom pieces together; also sew the cardboard with a double thread to make the joining doubly secure.

The dotted lines on the diagram show where the cardboard should be folded. Figure 331 illustrates the sides, ends, and bottom folded and ready to be assembled. Fold the flaps inside and glue them to the end pieces, then glue the two bottom pieces together. Also, sew the cardboard with double thread to make the connection more secure.

Fig. 332.—Top, showing how Portion is Bent up for Back of Letter-drop.
Fig. 333.—Ends of Letter-drop.
Fig. 334.—Front of Letter-drop.
Fig. 335.—Top, with Letter-drop Completed.

Fig. 332.—Top view, showing how the portion is bent up for the back of the letter-drop.
Fig. 333.—Ends of the letter-drop.
Fig. 334.—Front view of the letter-drop.
Fig. 335.—Top view, with the letter-drop completed.

The Top of the Box—the diagram for the cutting of which is shown in Fig. 328—has a piece 3 by 7 inches cut out on all but one long side, and bent up to form the top of

The Top of the Box—the diagram for which is shown in Fig. 328—has a section measuring 3 by 7 inches cut out on all but one long side, and bent up to create the top of

The Letter-drop (Fig. 332). The diagram for the ends of the letter-drop is shown in Fig. 329, and for the front in Fig. 330; Fig. 333 shows how cloth flaps are glued to the end piece; and Fig. 335 [Pg 208] shows how the end pieces are fastened to the top of the box by means of these flaps. Glue a strip of cloth to each side of the lower edge of the letter-drop front piece for hinges (Fig. 334), and glue one to the inside and the other to the outside of the top of the box (Fig. 335). Attach rubber-bands to the front and ends of the drop to make it spring shut. Glue and sew the top of the box to the flaps provided on the front and back for the purpose.

The Letter-drop (Fig. 332). The diagram for the ends of the letter-drop is shown in Fig. 329, and for the front in Fig. 330; Fig. 333 shows how cloth flaps are glued to the end piece; and Fig. 335 [Pg 208] shows how the end pieces are attached to the top of the box with these flaps. Glue a strip of cloth to each side of the lower edge of the letter-drop front piece for hinges (Fig. 334), and glue one to the inside and the other to the outside of the top of the box (Fig. 335). Attach rubber bands to the front and ends of the drop to make it spring shut. Glue and sew the top of the box to the flaps provided on the front and back for this purpose.

Fig. 336.—Diagram for Making Collection-drop.
Fig. 337.—How the Collection-drop is Folded.
Fig. 338.—The Collection-drop Hinged in Place.

Fig. 336.—Diagram for Creating a Collection Drop.
Fig. 337.—How to Fold the Collection Drop.
Fig. 338.—The Collection Drop Hinge Secured in Place.

Figure 336 shows the diagram for

__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ shows the diagram for

The Collection-drop, and Fig. 337 how it looks folded. Hinge the drop to the box with a cloth strip (Fig. 338).

The Collection-drop, and Fig. 337 how it looks when folded. Attach the drop to the box with a cloth strip (Fig. 338).

Reinforcement. When the work has been finished thus far, cut a number of strips of muslin 1 inch wide and reinforce the corners with them. Then take the 2-yard length of tape, which you procured, and sew it to the back of the box to hang it up by.

Reinforcement. Once the work has progressed to this point, cut several strips of muslin that are 1 inch wide and use them to reinforce the corners. Then take the 2-yard length of tape you obtained and sew it to the back of the box so you can hang it up.

[Pg 209]

Covering the Box. Silver paper makes the nicest finish for the mail-box, and can be bought of a stationer; but you may paint the cardboard with aluminum radiator paint instead if you prefer. If you use silver paper, stick it on with flour paste.

Covering the Box. Silver paper gives the best finish for the mailbox and can be purchased at a stationery store; however, you can also paint the cardboard with aluminum radiator paint if you prefer. If you choose silver paper, attach it using flour paste.

After the paper or paint has dried, paste

After the paper or paint has dried, apply

A Collection Schedule Card upon the front of the box. You will need, also, to

A Collection Schedule Card on the front of the box. You also need to

Letter the words, "Pull Down," "Letters," etc., where they are shown in the illustrations.

Letter the words, "Pull Down," "Letters," etc., where they appear in the illustrations.

Hang up the Mail-box by means of its tape strap, within easy reach, upon the face of a door (Fig. 325), or to the back of a chair (Fig. 36).

Hang the mailbox using its tape strap, in a spot that's easy to reach, on the front of a door (Fig. 325), or on the back of a chair (Fig. 36).

For a Mail-bag use a school-book bag, or make one just like a real postman's out of brown denim or cambric. Letter "U. S. Mail" upon the bag with black paint, or cut the letters from black or white muslin and glue them in place. Provide a long strap to reach over the postman's shoulder.

For a Mail-bag use a school backpack, or make one just like a real postman's out of brown denim or cotton. Write "U. S. Mail" on the bag with black paint, or cut the letters from black or white fabric and glue them in place. Add a long strap so it can go over the postman's shoulder.

The Way to Play Post-Office is for several children to attend to the writing of letters and wrapping of parcels, another to play mail clerk, who puts the post-marks on the mail and sorts it out into "routes" and another to play postman.

The Way to Play Post-Office is for several kids to write letters and wrap parcels, one to play the mail clerk who adds postmarks to the mail and sorts it into "routes," and another to be the postman.

Canceled stamps from old letters may be re-used on the play letters, and a rubber-stamp dater such as they sell at the stationer's for 10 cents may be used for printing the post-marks.

Canceled stamps from old letters can be reused on the play letters, and a rubber-stamp dater, like the ones sold at the stationer's for 10 cents, can be used to print the postmarks.

[Pg 210]

CHAPTER XXI

A HOME-MADE REFLECTOSCOPE

Fig. 339.—The Complete Reflectoscope.
Fig. 340.—Detail of Ventilator Top.

This reflecting lantern, shown completed in Fig. 339, is more magical in its operation than a magic-lantern is, because, instead of projecting through transparent slides, it reflects opaque pictures. That makes it possible to use magazine and newspaper pictures, post cards, and photograph prints. You may reflect a greatly enlarged picture of the movements of your watch, and by placing your face against the opening in the reflectoscope, you may show a view of your [Pg 211] mouth opening and closing, giant size. The ease with which slides are obtained makes this a desirable lantern to own.

This reflecting lantern, shown completed in Fig. 339, is more magical in its function than a magic lantern because, instead of projecting through transparent slides, it reflects opaque images. This allows you to use magazine and newspaper pictures, postcards, and photo prints. You can reflect a greatly enlarged image of your watch's movements, and by placing your face against the opening in the reflectoscope, you can display a giant view of your mouth opening and closing. The convenience of obtaining slides makes this a highly desirable lantern to have.

Fig. 341.—Plan of Reflectoscope.

Fig. 341.—Reflectoscope Design.

The Material. You must get a box about 10 by 10 by 20 inches in size for the case of the reflectoscope, two oil-lamps, or two 16 or 32 candle-power electric lamps with the parts necessary for connecting them to the electric lighting circuit, three 1-lb. baking-powder cans and two tomato cans, two pieces of tin about 6 by 10 inches in size, and a lens from a camera, field glass, opera glass, magic-lantern or bicycle-lamp.

The Material. You need to get a box that's about 10 by 10 by 20 inches for the reflectoscope case, two oil lamps, or two 16 or 32 candle-power electric lamps along with the parts needed to connect them to the electric circuit, three 1-pound baking powder cans, and two tomato cans. You'll also need two pieces of tin about 6 by 10 inches and a lens from a camera, field glass, opera glass, magic lantern, or bicycle lamp.

The bottom of the box will be the front of the reflectoscope.

Fig. 342.—Cross-section of Reflectoscope.

Cut the Lens Opening through this, at the center of its length, and a trifle above the center of its width. Make the hole a trifle larger than the lens.

Cut the Lens Opening through this, at the center of its length, and a bit above the center of its width. Make the hole slightly larger than the lens.

[Pg 212]

Cut Ventilator Holes 3 inches in diameter through the uppermost side of the box, near to the ends and bottom.

Cut ventilator holes 3 inches in diameter through the top side of the box, close to the ends and bottom.

Figures 341 and 342 show

__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ and __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__ display

The Interior Arrangement of the reflectoscope. Place the lamps in the corners of the box, next to the front, and tack in back of them the pieces of tin for reflectors (A, Figs. 341 and 342). Bend the reflectors to the curve shown.

The Interior Arrangement of the reflectoscope. Put the lamps in the corners of the box, near the front, and attach pieces of tin behind them to serve as reflectors (A, Figs. 341 and 342). Bend the reflectors to the shape indicated.

If Oil Lamps are Used, their tops will project through the ventilation holes, as shown in Fig. 342. These openings must be inclosed with

If Oil Lamps are Used, their tops will stick out through the ventilation holes, as shown in Fig. 342. These openings must be sealed with

A Hood which will Conceal the Light, yet allow the heat to escape. The most satisfactory arrangement is that shown in Figs. 339 and Fig. 342. A baking-powder can with its bottom removed (B) is slipped over the lamp chimney and fitted into the ventilation hole; then a tomato-can (C) is inverted over the top of the can and fastened in the slotted ends of three wooden peg stilts (D, Fig. 340), and the pegs are fitted into holes made in the top of the box (Figs. 339 and 342). Fasten the can in the slots of the stilts with tacks (Fig. 340).

A Hood that Will Block the Light, but still let the heat escape. The best setup is shown in Figs. 339 and Fig. 342. A baking powder can with the bottom removed (B) fits over the lamp chimney and into the ventilation hole; then a tomato can (C) is turned upside down over the top of the can and secured in the slotted ends of three wooden peg stilts (D, Fig. 340), and the pegs are placed into holes made in the top of the box (Figs. 339 and 342). Secure the can in the slots of the stilts with tacks (Fig. 340).

If Electric Light is Used, the hooded ventilators may be omitted. Any boy who understands the wiring of electric-lamp sockets, plugs, and drop-cord will know how to wire up the reflectoscope.

If Electric Light is Used, the hooded ventilators can be left out. Any boy who knows how to work with the wiring of electric lamp sockets, plugs, and drop cords will know how to set up the reflectoscope.

Mount the Lens in a can or mailing-tube jacket (Fig. 343). If you use a can, remove the bottom. If the lens is smaller in diameter, make a band of cardboard strips to fit around the edge, as shown in Fig. 344, and glue these [Pg 213] strips to the inside of the can or mailing-tube. The lens jacket should fit loosely enough in the reflectoscope box opening so it will slide back and forth for focusing. Make a tin collar to fit around the jacket, and tack it to the front of the box, to prevent light from escaping (Fig. 339).

Mount the lens in a can or mailing-tube jacket (Fig. 343). If you're using a can, take off the bottom. If the lens has a smaller diameter, create a band using cardboard strips to fit around the edge, as shown in Fig. 344, and glue these strips to the inside of the can or mailing tube. The lens jacket should fit loosely enough in the reflectoscope box opening that it can slide back and forth for focusing. Make a tin collar to fit around the jacket and attach it to the front of the box to keep light from escaping (Fig. 339).

Before putting on the back of the reflectoscope box,

Before putting the back on the reflectoscope box,

Putty up all Cracks between the boards in the top and front, to make the box light-tight; then

Fill all the cracks between the boards in the top and front to make the box light-tight; then

=Paint the Inside of the Box= and the cover boards with lamp-black thinned with turpentine, so there will be no reflections other than those produced by the lamp reflectors and the picture.

=Paint the Inside of the Box= and the cover boards with lamp-black mixed with turpentine, so there will be no reflections except for those created by the lamp reflectors and the picture.

Figs. 343 and 344.—Details of Lens Mounting.
Fig. 345.—View of Back of Reflectoscope.
Fig. 346.—Detail of Post Card Holder.

Nail the Back Boards in Place, leaving an opening about 7 inches square directly opposite the lens. Cut a piece of board to fit this opening (E, Fig. 345) for

Nail the Back Boards in Place, leaving an opening about 7 inches square directly across from the lens. Cut a piece of board to fit this opening (E, Fig. 345) for

[Pg 214]

The Picture Holder, and hinge it in place. A frame for post cards to slide in should be fastened to the picture holder, as shown in Fig. 346. First nail strips F to board E, then tack strips G to them so their edges project over strips F. A little wooden button (H, Fig. 345) will fasten the holder board shut while each picture is being projected.

The Picture Holder, and secure it in place. A frame for postcards to slide into should be attached to the picture holder, as shown in Fig. 346. First, nail strips F to board E, then fasten strips G to them so their edges extend over strips F. A small wooden button (H, Fig. 345) will keep the holder board closed while each picture is being displayed.

The Lens Reverses Pictures in projecting them, and in order to have them projected right-side up on the screen it is necessary to slip them into the holder frame upside down.

The Lens Reverses Pictures when projecting them, so to have them displayed right-side up on the screen, you need to place them into the holder frame upside down.

Adjustments. After you have built your reflectoscope, you may find it does not throw sharply-defined images upon your projection screen. In that case you must readjust the focus of the lens, the curve of the lamp reflectors, and the distance between the lens and the projection screen, until the best possible results are obtained. Inasmuch as the positions will vary with different lenses, it is impossible for me to give any hard and fast measurements. You will have to determine the distances yourself.

Adjustments. After you’ve built your reflectoscope, you might notice that it doesn’t project sharp images on your screen. If that’s the case, you need to readjust the focus of the lens, the angle of the lamp reflectors, and the distance between the lens and the projection screen until you get the best possible results. Since the settings will differ with each lens, I can’t provide exact measurements. You’ll need to figure out the distances on your own.

The stronger the light, the brighter the projected image will be; therefore, use the strongest light you can get, and place the lantern not more than five feet away from the screen.

The stronger the light, the brighter the projected image will be; so, use the brightest light you can find, and position the lantern no more than five feet away from the screen.

Unless you use an anastigmat lens such as the better grade of cameras are fitted with, you will discover that the corners of pictures are indistinct when you have brought the centers to a sharp focus. This indistinctness can be corrected to a great extent by blocking out the holder to curve the post cards and other pictures so that the ends are closer to the lens than the center is.

Unless you use an anastigmat lens, like the higher-quality cameras have, you’ll find that the corners of your pictures are blurry when you’ve focused sharply on the center. You can largely fix this blurriness by adjusting the holder to bend the postcards and other images so that the edges are closer to the lens than the center.

[Pg 215]

INDEX

Quick Links to Index Letters
[A] [B] [C] [D] [E] [F] [G] [H] [I]
[J] [K] [L] [M] [N] [O] [P] [R] [S]
[T] [V] [W]

A
Airships, clockwork flying, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__.
Animal targets for toy shooting gallery, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__.
Apartment building, doll, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__.
Automobile, clockwork, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__.
Clockwork delivery wagon, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_4__;
cigar-box, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_5__.

B
Doll baby carriage, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_6__.
Ballast for toy elevator, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_7__.
Balusters for dollhouse stairway, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_8__.
Battery, a bi-chromate of potash, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_9__.
Beaded curtains for dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_10__.
Dollhouse beds, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_11__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_12__.
Bi-chromate battery fluid, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_13__.
Toy motorboat, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_14__.
Box kite, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_15__.
Malay kite bridle, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_16__;
box kite, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_17__.
Buzz-saw whirligig, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_18__.

C
Cables for toy elevator, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_19__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_20__;
electro-magnet derrick, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_21__.
Cardboard toys, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_22__.
Dollhouse carpets, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_23__.
Doll baby carriage, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_24__.
Toy railway cars, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_25__;
gondola, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_26__;
street, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_27__;
various types of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_28__;
elevator, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_29__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_30__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_31__;
Ferris wheel, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_32__.
Cigar-box cart, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_33__;
cardboard cart, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_34__.
Cigar-box chairs, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_35__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_36__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_37__;
cardboard chair, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_38__.
Chauffeur for clockwork automobile, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_39__.
Preparing cigar-boxes for use, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_40__.
Cigar-box toys, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_41__.
Grandfather clock, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_42__.
Clock wheel top, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_43__.
Clockwork automobile, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_44__.
Clockwork delivery wagon, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_45__.
Clockwork Ferris wheel, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_46__.
Clockwork flying airships, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_47__.
Clockwork merry-go-round, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_48__.
Clockwork motors, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_49__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_50__;
for increasing speed, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_51__.
Clockwork railway, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_52__.
Clockwork toys, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_53__.
Toy clog dancer, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_54__.
Control for toy elevator, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_55__.
Cozy corner in dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_56__.
Counterbalance, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_57__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_58__.
Doll's cradle, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_59__.
Cricket rattle, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_60__.
Dollhouse curtains, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_61__.

D
Decorating the dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_62__;
doll apartment, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_63__.
Clockwork automobile delivery wagon, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_64__;
cigar-box, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_65__.
Electro-magnet derrick, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_66__.
Doll apartment building, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_67__.
Dollhouse, 145;
furnishing the, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_68__.
Doll dresser, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_69__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_70__.

E
Egg-beater motor-winder, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_71__.
Electrical toys, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_72__.
Electric toy motor truck, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_73__.

[Pg 216]

Electromagnet, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__.
Electromagnet derrick, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__.
Elevator, model airplane, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__.
Toy elevators, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__.
Toy office building elevator, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_4__;
an outdoor, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_5__;
dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_6__.
Enlarging by squares, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_7__.
Express wagon, cigar box, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_8__.

F
Feed hoist, toy stable, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_9__.
Feed troughs, toy stable, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_10__.
Clockwork Ferris wheel, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_11__.
Fin, model airplane, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_12__.
Fireplace, doll apartment, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_13__.
Fixtures, doll apartment lighting, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_14__.
Floors, toy office building, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_15__;
hardwood for dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_16__.
"Flying airships," clockwork, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_17__.
Kite flying line, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_18__.
Folding bed, doll, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_19__.
Furniture, cigar box, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_20__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_21__;
cardboard, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_22__.
Fuselage, model airplane, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_23__.

G
Gable ends, dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_24__;
toy stable, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_25__.
Garage, toy (_see_ __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_26__).
Gondola car, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_27__.
Grandfather clock, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_28__.
Guides, toy elevator, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_29__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_30__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_31__.

H
Handrail, dollhouse stairway, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_32__.
Horses for merry-go-round, cardboard, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_33__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_34__.
Dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_35__;
furnishing the dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_36__;
doll apartment, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_37__;
furniture for dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_38__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_39__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_40__.

I
Induction coil, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_41__.
Interrupter, shocking machine, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_42__.
J
Jack-in-the-box, cigar box, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_43__.
Jumping Jack, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_44__.
Jumping Jack operated by windmill, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_45__.

K
Kite, a Malay, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_46__;
a box, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_47__.
Kite reel, a hand, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_48__;
a body, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_49__.

L
Launching a model airplane, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_50__.
Lighting fixtures, doll apartment, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_51__.

M
Electromagnet, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_52__.
Toy mail bag, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_53__.
Toy mailbox, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_54__.
Malay kite, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_55__.
Mantel, doll apartment, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_56__.
Mechanical toys, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_57__.
Merry-go-round, top, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_58__; clockwork, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_59__;
cardboard, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_60__.
Mirror, dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_61__.
Mission furniture, doll, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_62__.
Model airplane, 21;
propellers for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_63__;
motors for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_64__;
motor winder for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_65__;
launching a, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_66__.
Toy motorboat, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_67__.
Clockwork motors, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_68__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_69__;
increasing speed of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_70__.
Model airplane motors, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_71__;
winder for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_72__.
Water motors (_see_ __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_73__).
Toy motorboat motor, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_74__.
Toy electric motor truck, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_75__.
Eggbeater motor winder, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_76__.

N
Newel post, dollhouse stairway, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_77__.

O
Toy office building elevator, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_78__.

[Pg 217]

P
Partitions, toy office building, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__;
stable stall, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__.
Pictures, dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__.
Pinion-wheel windmill, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_4__.
Pinwheel, paper, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_5__.
Pistol, toy, card-shooting, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_6__.
Planes, model airplane, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_7__.
Portieres, dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_8__.
Post-office with mailbox, for play, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_9__.
Primary coil, induction coil, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_10__.
Propeller shaft, model airplane, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_11__;
toy motorboat, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_12__.
Propellers, model airplane, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_13__.
Propeller, toy motorboat, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_14__.
Pulley wheel, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_15__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_16__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_17__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_18__.

R
Race track, spinning top, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_19__.
Toy railway, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_20__;
trolley line for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_21__;
power for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_22__;
tracks for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_23__;
cars for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_24__;
gondola car for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_25__;
streetcar for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_26__;
other cars for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_27__;
operation of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_28__;
station for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_29__;
clockwork, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_30__.
Rattle, cricket, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_31__.
Reel, hand kite-, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_32__;
body kite-, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_33__.
Reflectoscope, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_34__.
Riders for merry-go-round, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_35__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_36__.
Risers, dollhouse stairway, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_37__.
Rugs, dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_38__.
Rug-tack top, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_39__.

S
Secondary coil, induction coil, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_40__.
Settee, doll, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_41__.
Shocking machine, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_42__.
Shoe-polish can top, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_43__.
Shooting gallery, toy, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_44__.
Sideboard, doll, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_45__.
Cardboard sleighs for merry-go-round, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_46__.
Sofa, doll, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_47__.
Spinning top race track, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_48__.
Spiral top, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_49__.
Spool and cardboard toys, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_50__.
Spool top, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_51__.
Toy stable, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_52__.
Station for toy railway, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_53__.
Straw portieres, dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_54__.
Toy streetcar, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_55__.
Doll swing, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_56__.
Switch, electromagnet derrick, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_57__.

T
Tables, cigar box, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_58__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_59__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_60__;
cardboard, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_61__.
Tack top, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_62__.
Targets, toy shooting gallery, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_63__.
Teeter board, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_64__.
Thrust bearings, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_65__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_66__.
Top, clockwork, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_67__;
rug-tack, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_68__;
spool, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_69__;
spinning, racetrack, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_70__;
shoe-polish can, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_71__;
spiral, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_72__;
merry-go-round, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_73__.
Tops, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_74__.
Track, spinning-top race, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_75__.
Tracks, toy railway, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_76__.
Treads, dollhouse stairway, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_77__.
Trolley line, toy railway, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_78__.
Troughs, toy stable feed-, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_79__.
Toy electric motor truck, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_80__.
Turtle toy, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_81__.

V
Varnish-can water motor, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_82__.

W
Wagon, cigar box express-, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_83__.
Wardrobe, doll, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_84__.
Washstand, doll, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_85__.
Water motor, varnish can, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_86__;
another version of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_87__.
Wheel, clockwork Ferris, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_88__.
Wheel, water motor, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_89__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_90__.
Whirligig, buzz saw, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_91__.
Winder, model airplane motor-, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_92__.
Windlass, electromagnet derrick, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_93__.
Windmill, paper, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_94__;
pinion wheel, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_95__;
four-blade, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_96__;
eight-blade, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_97__;
jumping-Jack operated by a, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_98__.
Window shades, dollhouse, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_99__.

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