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TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES:

TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES:

—Obvious print and punctuation errors were corrected.

—Obvious printing and punctuation mistakes were fixed.

—Where necessary, illustrations have been relocated. List of illustration has been therefore adapted.

—Where necessary, illustrations have been moved. The list of illustrations has been updated accordingly.

—The transcriber of this project created the book cover image using the front cover of the original book. The image is placed in the public domain.

—The person who transcribed this project made the book cover image using the original book's front cover. The image is in the public domain.


THE WILD GARDEN

The Wild Garden


The
WILD GARDEN

Or our Groves and Gardens made beautiful by the Naturalisation of Hardy Exotic Plants; being one way onwards from the Dark Ages of Flower Gardening, with suggestions for the Regeneration of the Bare Borders of the London Parks.

Or our Groves and Gardens made beautiful by the Citizenship process of Tough Exotic Plants; being one way forward from the Flower Gardening's Dark Ages, with ideas for the Renewal of the Bare Borders of the Parks in London.

By W. ROBINSON, F. L. S.

By W. ROBINSON, F. L. S.

THIRD EDITION

3rd EDITION

Illustrated by Alfred Parsons

Illustrated by Alfred Parsons

LONDON
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET
NEW YORK: SCRIBNER AND WELFORD
1883

LONDON
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET
NEW YORK: SCRIBNER AND WELFORD
1883


By the same Author.

By the Same Author.

THE ENGLISH FLOWER GARDEN: ITS STYLE AND ARRANGEMENT. Followed by an ALPHABETICAL DESCRIPTION of all the PLANTS BEST SUITED FOR ITS EMBELLISHMENT, their CULTURE, and POSITION. With numerous Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 15s.

THE ENGLISH FLOWER GARDEN: ITS STYLE AND ARRANGEMENT. Followed by an ALPHABETICAL DESCRIPTION of all the PLANTS BEST SUITED FOR ITS EMBELLISHMENT, their CULTURE, and POSITION. With numerous Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 15s.

THE PARKS AND GARDENS OF PARIS, considered in Relation to the Wants of other Cities and of Public and Private Gardens. Third Edition. With 350 Illustrations. 8vo. 18s.

THE PARKS AND GARDENS OF PARIS, considered in relation to the needs of other cities and public and private gardens. Third Edition. With 350 Illustrations. 8vo. 18s.

ALPINE FLOWERS FOR ENGLISH GARDENS. How they may be Grown in all Parts of the British Islands. With Illustrations of Rock–gardens, Natural and Artificial. Third Edition. With Woodcuts. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d.

Alpine Flowers for English Gardens. How to Grow Them in All Areas of the British Isles. With Illustrations of Rock Gardens, Natural and Man-Made. Third Edition. With Woodcuts. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d.

THE SUB–TROPICAL GARDEN; or, Beauty of Form in the Flower Garden; with Illustrations of all the finer Plants used for this purpose. Second Edition. With Illustrations. Small 8vo. 5s.

THE SUB-TROPICAL GARDEN; or, Beauty of Form in the Flower Garden; featuring illustrations of all the finer plants used for this purpose. Second Edition. With illustrations. Small 8vo. 5s.

HARDY FLOWERS. Descriptions of upwards of 1300 of the most Ornamental Species; with Directions for their Culture, &c. Fourth Edition. Post 8vo. 3s. 6d.

Tough flowers. Descriptions of more than 1300 of the most decorative species; with instructions for their care, & c. Fourth Edition. Post 8vo. 3s. 6d.

GOD’S ACRE BEAUTIFUL; or, The Cemeteries of the Future. Third Edition. With Illustrations. 8vo. 7s. 6d.

GOD'S ACRE IS BEAUTIFUL; or, The Cemeteries of the Future. Third Edition. With Illustrations. 8vo. 7s. 6d.

Illustration: Colonies of Poet’s Narcissus and Broad–leaved Saxifrage, etc.—Frontispiece.

Illustration: Colonies of Poet's Narcissus and Broad-leaved Saxifrage, etc.—Frontispiece.


Columbines and Geraniums in meadow–grass.

Columbines and Geraniums in grass.

PREFACE.

When I began, some years ago, to plead the cause of the innumerable hardy flowers against the few tender ones, put out at that time in a formal way, the answer frequently was, “We cannot go back to the mixed border”—that is to say, the old way of arranging flowers in borders. Knowing, then, a little of the vast world of plant beauty quite shut out of our gardens by the “system,” in vogue, I was led to consider the ways in which it might be introduced to our gardens; and, among various ideas that then occurred to me, was the name and scope of the “wild garden.” I was led to think of the enormous number of beautiful hardy plants from other countries which might be naturalised, with a very slight amount of trouble, in many situations in our gardens and[vi] woods—a world of delightful plant beauty that we might in this way make happy around us, in places now weedy, or half bare, or useless. I saw that we could not only grow thus a thousandfold more lovely flowers than are commonly seen in what is called the flower garden, but also a number which, by any other plan, have no chance whatever of being seen around us. This is a system which will give us more beauty than ever was dreamt of in gardens, without interfering with formal gardening in any way.

When I started years ago to advocate for the countless hardy flowers over the few delicate ones typically used, the common response was, “We can’t go back to the mixed border”—meaning the traditional way of arranging flowers in borders. I knew a bit about the vast world of plant beauty that was completely excluded from our gardens by the current “system,” so I began to think about how we could bring it into our gardens. One idea that came to me was the concept and purpose of the “wild garden.” I realized there are so many beautiful hardy plants from other countries that could be easily naturalized in various spots in our gardens and woods—a world of delightful plant beauty we could create around us in areas that are now overgrown, somewhat bare, or otherwise wasted space. I saw that we could grow not only a thousand times more beautiful flowers than are usually found in what’s called the flower garden, but also many plants that wouldn’t have a chance to thrive by any other approach. This method can provide us with more beauty than has ever been imagined in gardens, without disrupting formal gardening at all.

In this illustrated edition, by the aid of careful drawings, I have endeavoured to suggest in what the system consists; but if I were to write a book for every page that this contains, I could not hope to suggest the many beautiful aspects of vegetation which the wild garden will enable us to enjoy at our doors.

In this illustrated edition, with the help of detailed drawings, I’ve tried to show what the system is all about; however, if I were to write a book for every page in this, I wouldn’t be able to cover all the wonderful aspects of plant life that a wild garden lets us enjoy right at our doorstep.

The illustrations are, with a few slight exceptions, the work of Mr. Alfred Parsons, and the drawing and engraving have been several years in execution. They are after nature, in places where the ideas expressed in the first small edition of the book had been carried out, or where accident, as in the case of the beautiful group of Myrrh and white Harebells, had given rise to the combinations or aspects of vegetation sought. I cannot too heartily acknowledge the skill and pains which Mr. Parsons devoted to the drawings, and to the success which he has attained in illustrating the motive of the book, and such good effects as have already been obtained where the idea has been intelligently carried out.

The illustrations are mostly the work of Mr. Alfred Parsons, with just a few minor exceptions, and the drawing and engraving have taken several years to complete. They are done from nature, in areas where the ideas presented in the first small edition of the book have been implemented, or where chance, like in the case of the beautiful group of Myrrh and white Harebells, has inspired the combinations or appearances of the plants sought. I can’t express enough how much I appreciate the skill and effort that Mr. Parsons put into the drawings, as well as the success he has achieved in illustrating the book's theme, and the great results that have already been attained where the idea has been thoughtfully executed.

There has been some misunderstanding as to the term “Wild Garden.” It is applied essentially to the placing of perfectly hardy exotic plants in places and under conditions where they will become established and take care of themselves. It has nothing to do with the old idea of the “wilderness,” though it may be carried out in connection with that. It does not necessarily mean the picturesque garden, for a garden may be highly picturesque, and yet in every part the result of ceaseless care. What it does mean is best explained by the winter Aconite flowering under a grove of naked trees in February; by the Snowflake growing abundantly in meadows by the Thames side; by the perennial Lupine dyeing an islet with its purple in a Scotch river; and by the Apennine Anemone staining an English wood blue before the blooming of our blue bells. Multiply these instances a thousandfold, illustrated by many different types of plants and hardy climbers, from countries as cold or colder than our own, and one may get a just idea of the wild garden. Some have erroneously represented it as allowing a garden to run wild, or sowing annuals promiscuously; whereas it studiously avoids meddling with the garden proper at all, except in attempting the improvements of bare shrubbery borders in the London parks and elsewhere; but these are waste spaces, not gardens.

There has been some confusion about the term “Wild Garden.” It essentially refers to placing hardy exotic plants in environments where they can thrive and be self-sustaining. It doesn't relate to the old concept of “wilderness,” although it can be associated with it. It doesn't necessarily mean a picturesque garden, as a garden can be very picturesque while still requiring constant care in every part. What it actually means is best illustrated by the winter Aconite blooming under a grove of bare trees in February; by the Snowflake growing abundantly in meadows by the Thames; by the perennial Lupine coloring an islet purple in a Scottish river; and by the Apennine Anemone turning an English wood blue before our bluebells bloom. Multiply these examples a thousand times, shown with many different types of plants and hardy climbers from regions as cold or colder than ours, and you can get a good understanding of the wild garden. Some have mistakenly suggested that it involves letting a garden grow wild or scattering annuals randomly; however, it carefully avoids interfering with the garden itself, except for improving bare shrubbery borders in London parks and similar areas, which are actually waste spaces, not gardens.

I wish it to be kept distinct in the mind from the various important phases of hardy plant growth in groups, beds, and borders, in which good culture and good taste may produce[viii] many happy effects; distinct from the rock garden or the borders reserved for choice hardy flowers of all kinds; from the best phase of the sub–tropical garden—that of growing hardy plants of fine form; from the ordinary type of spring garden; and from the gardens, so to say, of our own beautiful native flowers in our woods and wilds. How far the wild garden may be carried out as an aid to, or in connection with, any of the above in the smaller class of gardens, can be best decided on the spot in each case. In the larger gardens, where, on the outer fringes of the lawn, in grove, park, copse, or by woodland walks or drives, there is often ample room, fair gardens and wholly new and beautiful aspects of vegetation may be created by its means.

I want to clearly separate this concept from the various important aspects of hardy plant growth in groups, beds, and borders, where proper care and good taste can create[viii] many positive effects; distinct from rock gardens or borders meant for a selection of hardy flowers of all kinds; from the ideal version of a sub-tropical garden that focuses on growing hardy plants with great form; from the usual style of spring gardens; and from the gardens that showcase our own beautiful native flowers found in our woods and wilderness. How far we can take the idea of a wild garden as a complement to any of the above in smaller gardens will need to be determined on a case-by-case basis. In larger gardens, especially on the outer edges of the lawn, in groves, parks, thickets, or along woodland paths or drives, there’s often enough space to create attractive gardens and entirely new and beautiful views of vegetation using this approach.

May 28, 1881.

May 28, 1881.


CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
  PAGE
Explainer 1
CHAPTER II.
Example from the Forget-me-not Family 9
CHAPTER III.
Here’s a contemporary version of your text. "Check out the example of Hardy Bulbs and Tubers growing in grass." 15
CHAPTER IV.
Example from the Globe Flower Order 21
CHAPTER V.
Plants Mainly Suitable for the Wild Garden 32
CHAPTER VI.
Ditches and narrow shady paths, groves, hedgerows, and bushes. 36
CHAPTER VII.
Drapery for Trees and Shrubs 43
CHAPTER VIII.[x]
The typical shrubs, woods, and woodland paths 51
CHAPTER IX.
The Brookside, Waterside, and Bog Gardens 67
CHAPTER X.
Roses for the Wild Garden, as well as for Hedgerows, Fences, and Clusters 81
CHAPTER XI.
Wild Gardening on Walls or Ruins 88
CHAPTER XII.
Results 92
CHAPTER XIII.
A Plan to Improve the Edges of Shrubs in London Parks 111
CHAPTER XIV.
The Main Types of Hardy Exotic Flowering Plants for the Wild Garden 120
CHAPTER XV.
Hardy Exotic Plant Selections for Different Spots
in the Wild Garden
163

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

  PAGE
Colonies of Poet’s Narcissus and Broad–leaved Saxifrage, etc.
Frontispiece
Columbine and Geraniums in meadow–grass v
Large flowered Meadow Rue in the Wild Garden, type of plant mostly excluded from the Garden 1
Night effect of large evening Primrose in the Wild Garden
(Œnothera Lamarkiana)
To face page 4
A “mixed border” with tile edging, the way in which the beautiful hardy flowers of the world have been grown in gardens hitherto, when grown at all. (Sketched in a large garden, 1878) 5
Blue flowered Composite plant; fine foliage and habit; type of noble plants excluded from Gardens. (Mulgedium Plumieri) 6
Wood Anemone 8
Caucasian Comfrey in shrubbery 9
The Cretan Borage (Borago cretica) 12
Flowers of Geneva Bugle (Ajuga genevensis), Dwarf Boragewort 14
Star of Bethlehem in Grass 15
The association of exotic and British wild flowers in the Wild Garden.—The Bell–flowered Scilla, naturalised with our own Wood Hyacinth 16
The Turk’s Cap Lily, naturalised in the grass by wood–walk 19
Crocuses in turf, in grove of Summer leafing trees 20
Group of Globe flowers (Trollius) in marshy place; type of the nobler Northern flowers little cultivated in gardens 21
[xii]The Mountain Clematis (C. montana) 22
The White Japan Anemone in the Wild Garden 23
Anemones in the Riviera. Thrive equally well in any open soil here, only flowering later
To face page 24
The Green Hellebore in the Wild Garden 26
Tall perennial Larkspurs, naturalised in Shrubbery (1878) 28
Double Crimson Pæonies in grass 30
Eupatorium purpureum 32
The Giant Scabious (8 feet high). (Cephalaria procera) 32
Giant Cow parsnip. Type of Great Siberian herbaceous vegetation. For rough places only 35
Foliage of Dipsacus, on hedge–bank in spring 36
The large white Bindweed, type of nobler climbing plants, with annual stems. For copses, hedgerows, and shrubberies 39
The Nootka Bramble; type of free–growing flowering shrub. For copses and woods 40
The Yellow Allium (A. Moly) naturalised 42
Periploca græca (climber) 43
Large White Clematis on Yew tree at Great Tew. (C. montana grandiflora) 45
The way the climbing plants of the world are crucified in
gardens—winter effect (a faithful sketch)
45
Climbing shrub (Celastrus), isolated on the grass; way of growing woody Climbers away from walls or other supports 47
A Liane in the North. Aristolochia and Deciduous Cypress 48
A beautiful accident.—A colony of Myrrhis odorata, established in shrubbery, with white Harebells here and there 51
Large White Achilleas spread into wide masses under shade of trees in shrubbery 53
Lilies coming up through carpet of White Arabis 56
Colony of Narcissus in properly spaced shrubbery 57
The American White Wood–Lily (Trillium grandiflorum) in
Wild Garden, in wood bottom in leaf–mould
To face page 58
The Lily of the Valley in a copse 63
Solomon’s Seal and Herb Paris, in copse by streamlet 67
[xiii]Colony of hardy exotic Flowers, naturalised by brook–side 70
Valley in Somersetshire, with Narcissi, Marsh Marigolds, and Primroses
To face page 70
Cyperus longus 73
The Cape Pond Weed in an English ditch in winter 75
Day Lily by margin of water 76
Marsh Marigold and Iris in early spring 78
The same spot as in previous sketch, with aftergrowth of Iris, Meadow Sweet, and Bindweed 79
Partridge Berry (Gaultheria) 80
Wild Rose growing on a Pollard Ash in Orchardleigh Park, Somerset 83
White Climbing Rose scrambling over old Catalpa Tree
To face page 84
Climbing Rose isolated on grass 87
Arenaria balearica, in a hole in wall at Great Tew 88
Cheddar Pink, Saxifrage, and Ferns, on cottage wall at Mells 89
The Yellow Fumitory on wall (Corydalis lutea) 91
Large Japan Sedum (S. spectabile) and Autumn Crocuses in the Wild Garden 92
Crane’s Bill, wild, in grass 94
Large–leafed Saxifrage in the Wild Garden 95
Tiger Lilies in Wild Garden at Great Tew
To face page 98
Large–flowered Clematis 102
Sun Roses (Cistus) and other exotic hardy plants among heather, on sandy slope
To face page 104
Wood and herbaceous Meadow–sweets grouped together in Mr. Hewittson’s garden 105
Woodruff and Ivy 108
Tailpiece 110
Dug and mutilated Shrubbery in St. James’s Park. Sketched in winter of 1879 111
Colony of the Snowdrop–Anemone in Shrubbery not dug. Anemone taking the place of weeds or bare earth 115
Colony of the Summer Snowflake, on margin of shrubbery 119
[xiv]The Monkshood, naturalised by wet ditch in wood 121
The white Narcissus–like Allium, in the orchards of Provence; type of family receiving little place in gardens which may be beautiful for a season in wild places 123
The Alpine Windflower (Anemone alpina) 124
Siberian Columbine in rocky place 126
Tall Asphodel in copse 127
The foliage of the Meadow Saffron in Spring 132
The White–flowered European Clematis (C. erecta) 133
Cyclamens in the Wild Garden; from nature 134
A South European Bindweed creeping up the stems of an Iris in an English garden 135
A Sea Holly; Eryngium 138
Groups of Funkia Sieboldi 140
A hardy Geranium 141
Snowdrops, wild, by streamlet in valley 142
Sun Rose on limestone rocks 144
White Lily in Wild Garden 146
Everlasting Pea, creeping up stem in shrubbery 148
Type of fine–leaved umbellate plants seldom grown in gardens 149
The Bee Balm, Monarda. American wood plant 150
The Great Japan Knotweed (Polygonum cuspidatum). (Showing the plant in flower) 152
Phlomis. Type of handsome Labiates; admirably suited for
the Wild Garden
153
The tall Ox–eye daisy (Pyrethrum serotinum) 154
The Great Reed of Southern Europe (Arundo Donax) 155
Telekia. Type of the Larger Composites, excluded from gardens proper 159
Group of Tritoma, in grass 160
A tall Mullein 161
Ophrys in grass 163
Rock steps with Omphalodes 175
Butterbur and Double Furze on margin of lake 176

THE WILD GARDEN.

THE WILD GARDEN.

ONE WAY ONWARDS FROM THE DARK AGES OF FLOWER–GARDENING.

ONE WAY FORWARD FROM THE DARK AGES OF FLOWER GARDENING.

CHAPTER I.

EXPLANATORY.

EXPLANATORY.

Large–flowered Meadow Rue in the Wild Garden, type of plant mostly excluded from the Garden.

Large-flowered Meadow Rue in the Wild Garden, a type of plant mostly left out of the Garden.

About a generation ago a taste began to be manifested for placing a number of tender plants in the open air in summer, with a view to the production of showy masses of decided colour. The subjects selected were mostly from sub–tropical climates and of free growth; placed annually in the open air of our genial early summer, and in fresh rich earth, every year they grew rapidly and flowered abundantly during the summer and early autumn months, and until cut down by the first frosts. The showy colour of this system was very attractive, and since its introduction[2] there has been a gradual rooting out of all the old favourites in favour of this “bedding” system. This was carried to such an extent that it was not uncommon, indeed it has been the rule, to find the largest gardens in the country without a single hardy flower, all energy and expense being devoted to the production of the few exotics required for the summer decoration. It should be distinctly borne in mind that the expense for this system is an annual one; that no matter what amount of money may be spent in this way, or how many years may be devoted to perfecting it, the first sharp frost of November announces a yet further expense and labour, usually more heavy than the preceding.

About a generation ago, people started showing a preference for putting a variety of delicate plants outside during the summer, aiming for vibrant displays of bold colors. The chosen plants were mostly from subtropical regions and grew easily; each year, they were planted in the fresh, rich soil outdoors during our pleasant early summer, where they quickly grew and bloomed richly throughout the summer and early autumn months, until the first frosts cut them down. The bright colors from this approach were very appealing, and since its introduction[2], there has been a steady decline of traditional favorites in favor of this “bedding” method. It became so common that it was unusual—actually, it became the norm—to find the largest gardens in the country without a single hardy flower, with all resources and effort focused on producing the few exotic plants needed for summer decoration. It’s important to remember that the costs of this system are annual; no matter how much money is spent or how many years are invested in refining it, the first sharp frost in November signals another round of expenses and labor, usually heavier than the last.

Its highest results need hardly be described; they are seen in all our great public gardens; our London and many other city parks show them in the shape of beds filled with vast quantities of flowers, covering the ground frequently in a showy way, or in a repulsively gaudy manner: nearly every private garden is taken possession of by the same things. I will not here enter into the question of the merits of this system; it is enough to state that even on its votaries it is beginning to pall. Some are looking back with regret to the old mixed–border gardens; others are endeavouring to soften the harshness of the bedding system by the introduction of fine–leaved plants, but all are agreed that a great mistake has been made in destroying all our old flowers, from Lilies to Hepaticas, though very few persons indeed have any idea of the numbers of beautiful subjects in this way which we may gather from every northern and temperate clime to adorn our gardens under a more artistic system.

Its top results hardly need description; they can be seen in all our major public gardens. Our London parks and many others display them in the form of large flower beds that often cover the ground in a flashy way or even in a disturbingly gaudy style. Nearly every private garden is dominated by the same trends. I won’t delve into the pros and cons of this approach; it’s enough to say that even its supporters are starting to feel weary of it. Some people are reminiscing about the old mixed-border gardens, while others are trying to soften the rigidity of the bedding system by adding fine-leaved plants. But everyone agrees that a big mistake has been made by getting rid of all our traditional flowers, from Lilies to Hepaticas. Very few people truly understand the countless beautiful plants we could gather from northern and temperate climates to enhance our gardens with a more artistic approach.

My object in the Wild Garden is now to show how we[3] may have more of the varied beauty of hardy flowers than the most ardent admirer of the old style of garden ever dreams of, by naturalising innumerable beautiful natives of many regions of the earth in our woods and copses, rougher parts of pleasure grounds, and in unoccupied places in almost every kind of garden.

My goal in the Wild Garden is to illustrate how we[3] can enjoy much more of the diverse beauty of resilient flowers than even the most passionate lover of traditional gardens could imagine, by introducing countless beautiful native plants from various regions around the world into our woodlands, clearings, more rugged areas of parks, and in unused spots in almost any type of garden.

I allude not to the wood and brake flora of any one country, but to that which finds its home in the vast fields of the whole northern world, and that of the hill–ground that falls in furrowed folds from beneath the hoary heads of all the great mountain chains of the world, whether they rise from hot Indian plains or green European pastures. The Palm and sacred Fig, as well as the Wheat and the Vine, are separated from the stemless plants that cushion under the snow for half the year, by a zone of hardier and not less beautiful life, varied as the breezes that whisper on the mountain sides, and as the rills that seam them. They are the Lilies, and Bluebells, and Foxgloves, and Irises, and Windflowers, and Columbines, and Rock–roses, and Violets, and Cranesbills, and countless Pea–flowers, and mountain Avens, and Brambles, and Cinquefoils, and Evening Primroses, and Clematis, and Honeysuckles, and Michaelmas Daisies, and Wood–hyacinths, and Daffodils, and Bindweeds, and Forget–me–nots, and blue–eyed Omphalodes, and Primroses, and Day Lilies, and Asphodels, and St. Bruno’s Lilies, and the almost innumerable plants which form the flora of the northern and temperate portions of vast continents.

I’m not talking about the plants of any single country’s woods and underbrush, but about those that thrive across the vast landscapes of the entire northern world, including the hilly terrain that undulates beneath the snow-capped peaks of all the great mountain ranges, whether they rise from the hot plains of India or the lush pastures of Europe. The Palm and sacred Fig, along with Wheat and Vine, are set apart from the stemless plants that lie under the snow for half the year by a zone of tougher and equally beautiful life, varied like the breezes that rustle on the mountainsides and the streams that run through them. This includes Lilies, Bluebells, Foxgloves, Irises, Windflowers, Columbines, Rock-roses, Violets, Cranesbills, countless Pea flowers, mountain Avens, Brambles, Cinquefoils, Evening Primroses, Clematis, Honeysuckles, Michaelmas Daisies, Wood-hyacinths, Daffodils, Bindweeds, Forget-me-nots, blue-eyed Omphalodes, Primroses, Day Lilies, Asphodels, St. Bruno’s Lilies, and the countless other plants that make up the flora of the northern and temperate regions of vast continents.

It is beyond the power of pen or pencil to picture the beauty of these plants. Innumerable and infinitely varied scenes occur in the wilder parts of all northern and temperate[4] regions, at many different elevations. The loveliness and ceaselessly varying charms of such scenes are indeed difficult to describe or imagine; the essential thing to bear in mind is that the plants that go to form them are hardy, and will thrive in our climate as well as native plants.

It’s impossible for words or drawings to capture the beauty of these plants. Countless and endlessly diverse scenes can be found in the wilder areas of all northern and temperate regions, at various elevations. The beauty and ever-changing allure of these scenes are truly hard to describe or envision; the key point to remember is that the plants that create them are resilient and will thrive in our climate just like native plants.

Such beauty may be realised in every wood and copse and shrubbery that screens our “trim gardens.” Naturally our woods and wilds have no little loveliness in spring; we have here and there the Lily–of–the–valley and the Snowdrop, and everywhere the Primrose and Cowslip; the Bluebell and the Foxglove sometimes take nearly complete possession of whole woods; but, with all our treasures in this way, we have no attractions in or near our gardens compared to what it is within our power to create. There are many countries with winters as cold as, or colder than, our own, possessing a rich flora; and by taking the best hardy exotics and establishing them in wild or half–wild spots, we may produce beautiful pictures in such places. To most people a pretty plant in a free state is more attractive than any garden denizen. It is taking care of itself; and, moreover, it is usually surrounded by some degree of graceful wild spray—the green above, and the moss and brambles and grass around.

Such beauty can be found in every forest, grove, and bush that surround our “neat gardens.” Of course, our woods and natural areas have their own charm in spring; we have the Lily of the Valley and the Snowdrop here and there, and the Primrose and Cowslip can be seen everywhere. The Bluebell and Foxglove sometimes dominate entire woods; however, despite all our natural treasures, our gardens can't compete with what we have the ability to create. Many countries have winters as cold as or colder than ours, yet they boast a rich variety of plants. By selecting the hardiest exotic plants and placing them in wild or semi-wild areas, we can create stunning scenes in those locations. For most people, a beautiful plant growing naturally is more appealing than anything found in a garden. It’s thriving on its own, and it’s usually surrounded by graceful wild growth—the greenery above and the moss, brambles, and grass below.

By the means presently to be explained, numbers of plants of the highest order of beauty and fragrance, and clothed with pleasant associations, may be seen perfectly at home in the spaces now devoted to rank grass and weeds, and by wood walks in our shrubberies and ornamental plantations.

By the methods that will be explained shortly, many plants that are incredibly beautiful and fragrant, and carry pleasant memories, can thrive beautifully in the areas currently taken up by unkempt grass and weeds, as well as along the paths in our gardens and decorative landscapes.

Night effect of large evening Primrose in the Wild Garden (Œnothera Lamarkiana)

Night effect of large evening Primrose in the Wild Garden (Oenothera Lamarkiana)

Among my reasons for advocating this system are the following:—

Among my reasons for supporting this system are the following:—

First, because hundreds of the finest hardy flowers will thrive much better in rough and wild places than ever they did in the old–fashioned border. Even comparatively small ones, like the ivy–leaved Cyclamen, a beautiful plant that we rarely find in perfection in gardens, I have seen perfectly naturalised and spread all over the mossy surface of a thin wood.ill5

First, because hundreds of the best tough flowers will thrive much better in rough and wild areas than they ever did in the old-fashioned border. Even relatively small ones, like the ivy-leaved Cyclamen, a beautiful plant that we rarely see in its best form in gardens, I have witnessed perfectly naturalized and spreading all over the mossy surface of a thin wood.ill5

A “mixed border” with tile edging, the way in which the beautiful hardy flowers of the world have been grown in gardens hitherto, when grown at all. (Sketched in a large garden, 1878.)

A "mixed border" with tile edging, like how the beautiful hardy flowers of the world have been cultivated in gardens up until now, when they are grown at all. (Sketched in a large garden, 1878.)

Secondly, because they will look infinitely better than ever they did in gardens, in consequence of fine–leaved plant, fern, and flower, and climber, grass and trailing shrub, relieving each other in ways innumerable and delightful. Any one of a thousand combinations will prove as far superior to any aspect of the old mixed border, or the ordinary type of modern flower–garden, as is a lovely mountain valley to a piece of the “black country.”

Secondly, they will look way better than they ever did in gardens, thanks to the delicate-leaved plants, ferns, flowers, climbers, grasses, and trailing shrubs, all complementing each other in countless delightful ways. Any one of a thousand combinations will be way better than any look of the old mixed border or the typical modern flower garden, just like a beautiful mountain valley is to a section of the "black country."

Thirdly, because, arranged as I propose, no disagreeable effects result from decay. The raggedness of the old mixed border after the first flush of spring and early summer bloom had passed was intolerable, bundles of decayed stems tied to sticks, making the place look like the parade–ground of a number of crossing–sweepers. When Lilies are sparsely[6] dotted through masses of shrubs, their flowers are admired more than if they were in isolated showy masses; when they pass out of bloom they are unnoticed amidst the vegetation, and not eyesores, as when in rigid unrelieved tufts in borders, etc. In a wild or semi–wild state the beauty of individual species will proclaim itself when at its height; and when out of bloom they will be succeeded by other kinds, or lost among the numerous objects around.ill6

Thirdly, with the arrangement I suggest, there are no unpleasant effects from decay. The messiness of the old mixed border after the initial burst of spring and early summer blooms faded was unbearable, with bundles of decayed stems tied to stakes, making the area look like a messy cleaning crew's hangout. When Lilies are spread out among a lot of shrubs, their flowers are appreciated more than if they were in isolated flashy clumps; when they stop blooming, they blend in with the foliage and don’t stand out as eyesores, unlike when they are arranged in rigid, unvarying clumps in borders, etc. In a natural or semi-natural setting, the beauty of individual species shines through at its peak; and when they are out of bloom, they'll be replaced by other kinds or hidden among the many elements around.ill6

Blue flowered Composite plant; fine foliage and habit; type of noble plants excluded from gardens. (Mulgedium Plumieri.)

Blue-flowered composite plant; nice leaves and growth habit; a type of elegant plant kept out of gardens. (Mulgedium Plumieri.)

Fourthly, because it will enable us to grow many plants that have never yet obtained a place in our “trim gardens.” I allude to the multitudes of plants which, not being so showy as those usually considered worthy of a place in gardens, are never seen therein. The flowers of many of these are of the highest order of beauty, especially when seen in numbers. An isolated tuft of one of these, seen in a formal border, may not be considered worthy of its place, while in some wild glade, in a wood, as a little colony, grouped naturally, or associated with like subjects, its effect may be exquisite. Among the subjects usually considered unfit for garden cultivation may be included a goodly number that, grown in gardens, are no addition to them; subjects like the American Asters, Golden Rods, and like plants, which merely[7] overrun the choicer and more beautiful border–flowers when planted amongst them. These coarse subjects would be quite at home in copses and woody places, where their blossoms might be seen or gathered in due season, and their vigorous vegetation form a covert welcome to the game–preserver. To these two groups might be added subjects like the winter Heliotrope, the handsome British Willow herb, and many other plants which, while attractive in the garden, are apt to spread about so rapidly as to become a nuisance there. Clearly these should only be planted in wild and semi–wild places.

Fourthly, because it will allow us to grow many plants that have never made it into our “well-kept gardens.” I'm referring to the countless plants that, not being as eye-catching as those typically deemed worthy of a garden spot, never find their way in. The flowers of many of these are incredibly beautiful, especially when seen in groups. A single clump of one of these plants, positioned in a formal border, might not seem worthy of its spot, while in a wild clearing in a forest, as part of a little colony grouped naturally or alongside similar plants, its impact can be stunning. Among the plants usually considered unsuitable for garden cultivation are several that, when grown in gardens, don't really enhance them; plants like the American Asters, Golden Rods, and others that simply [7] take over the more delicate and beautiful border flowers when planted among them. These rough plants would thrive in thickets and wooded areas, where their flowers could be seen or picked at the right time, and their lush growth would provide a welcome shelter for game. To these two groups, we could add plants like the winter Heliotrope, the beautiful British Willow herb, and many others that, while appealing in the garden, tend to spread so quickly that they become a nuisance. Clearly, these should only be planted in wild and semi-wild areas.

Fifthly, because we may in this way settle also the question of spring flowers, and the spring garden, as well as that of hardy flowers generally. In the way I suggest, many parts of every country garden, and many suburban ones, may be made alive with spring flowers, without interfering at least with the geometrical beds that have been the worthless stock–in–trade of the so–called landscape–gardener for centuries. The blue stars of the Apennine Anemone will be seen to greater advantage “wild,” in shady or half–shady bare places, under trees, than in any conceivable formal arrangement, and it is but one of hundreds of sweet spring flowers that will succeed perfectly in the way I propose.

Fifthly, this approach also allows us to address the topic of spring flowers and the spring garden, as well as hardy flowers in general. By following my suggestion, many areas of country gardens and many suburban gardens can come alive with spring flowers, without disrupting the geometrical beds that have long been the worthless stock-in-trade of so-called landscape gardeners. The blue stars of the Apennine Anemone will look much better "wild" in shady or semi-shady bare spots under trees than in any formal setup you can imagine, and it's just one of hundreds of delightful spring flowers that will thrive in the way I propose.

Sixthly, because there can be few more agreeable phases of communion with nature than naturalising the natives of countries in which we are infinitely more interested than in those of which greenhouse or stove plants are native. From the Roman ruin—home of many flowers, the prairies of the New World, the woods and meadows of all the great mountains of Europe; from Greece and Italy and Spain, from the[8] sunny hills of Asia Minor; from the alpine regions of the great continents—in a word, from almost every interesting region the traveller may bring seeds or plants, and establish near his home the pleasantest souvenirs of the various scenes he has visited.

Sixthly, because there are few things more enjoyable than connecting with nature by bringing in native plants from places we care about much more than those where greenhouse or indoor plants come from. From the Roman ruins—home to many flowers, the prairies of the New World, the woods and meadows of all the great European mountains; from Greece, Italy, and Spain, from the[8] sunny hills of Asia Minor; from the alpine regions of the great continents—in short, from almost every fascinating area, travelers can collect seeds or plants and grow happy reminders of the diverse places they have explored near their homes.

Moreover, the great merit of permanence belongs to this delightful phase of gardening. Select a wild rough slope, and embellish it with the handsomest and hardiest climbing plants,—say the noble mountain Clematis from Nepal, the sweet C. Flammula from Southern Europe, “Virginian creepers” in variety, the Nootka Bramble (Rubus nutkanus and R. odoratus), various species of hardy vines, Jasmines, Honeysuckles—British and European, and wild Roses. Arranged with some judgment at first, such a colony might be left to take care of itself; time would but add to its attractions, and the happy owner might go away for years, and find it beautiful on his return.

Moreover, one of the greatest benefits of permanence belongs to this delightful aspect of gardening. Choose a wild, rugged slope and enhance it with the most beautiful and resilient climbing plants—like the impressive mountain Clematis from Nepal, the fragrant C. Flammula from Southern Europe, various types of "Virginian creepers," the Nootka Bramble (Rubus nutkanus and R. odoratus), different species of hardy vines, Jasmines, Honeysuckles—both British and European, and wild Roses. With a bit of thoughtful arrangement at the start, such a collection could be left to thrive on its own; over time, it would only become more attractive, and the fortunate owner could leave for years, returning to find it still beautiful.


CHAPTER II.

EXAMPLE FROM THE FORGET–ME–NOT FAMILY.
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EXAMPLE FROM THE FORGET-ME-NOT FAMILY.
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Caucasian Comfrey in shrubbery.

Caucasian Comfrey in bushes.

I will now endeavour to illustrate my meaning by showing what may be done with one type of northern vegetation— that of the Forget–me–not order, one far from being as rich as others in subjects suited for the wild garden. Through considering its capabilities in this way, the reader may be able to form some idea of what we may do by selecting from the numerous plants that grow in the meadows and mountain–woods of Europe, Asia, and America.

I will now try to explain what I mean by showing what can be done with one type of northern plant—specifically, the Forget-me-not family, which is actually not as abundant as others in terms of options for a wild garden. By looking at its potential this way, the reader might get an idea of what we can achieve by choosing from the many plants that grow in the meadows and mountain forests of Europe, Asia, and America.

The Forget–me–not or Borage family is a well–marked and well–known one, containing a great number of coarse weeds, but which, if it possessed only the common Forget–me–not, would have some claims on us. Many persons are not acquainted with more than the Forget–me–nots; but what lovely exotic plants there are in this order that would afford delight if met with creeping about along our wood and[10] shrubbery walks! Nature, say some, is sparing of her deep true blues; but there are obscure plants in this order that possess the truest, deepest, and most delicate of blues, and which will thrive as well in the wild garden as common weeds. The creeping Omphalodes verna even surpasses the Forget–me–not in the depth and beauty of its blue and its other good qualities, and runs about quite freely in any shady or half–shady shrubbery or open wood, or even in turf in moist soil not very frequently mown. Its proper home is the wood or semi–wild spot, where it takes care of itself. Put it in a garden, and probably, unless the soil and region be moist, it soon perishes. Besides, in the border, it would be a not very agreeable object when once the sweet spring bloom had passed; whereas, in the positions spoken of, in consequence of the predominance of trees, shrubs, and tall herbs, the low plants are not noticed when out of flower, but crawl about unobserved till returning spring reminds those fortunate enough to see them how superior is the inexpensive and natural kind of gardening here advocated.

The Forget-me-not, or Borage family, is a distinctly recognizable group that includes many coarse weeds, but even if it only had the common Forget-me-not, it would still be worth our attention. Many people are only familiar with the Forget-me-nots, but there are some beautiful exotic plants in this family that would be a joy to find wandering through our woods and [10] along shrub-lined paths! Some say that nature is stingy with her deep true blues; however, there are lesser-known plants in this family that have the richest, deepest, and most delicate blues, thriving just as well in a wild garden as they do as common weeds. The creeping Omphalodes verna even outshines the Forget-me-not in both the richness and beauty of its blue, along with its other great qualities, and it spreads freely in any shady or partially shady shrubbery or open woods, or even in turf in moist soil that isn't mowed too often. It truly belongs in the woods or semi-wild areas where it can take care of itself. Place it in a garden, and unless the soil and area are moist, it will likely soon fade away. Additionally, in a flower border, it wouldn’t be very appealing once the lovely spring blooms are gone; however, in the aforementioned spots, the dominance of trees, shrubs, and tall herbs means that the low plants go unnoticed when not in bloom, quietly thriving until spring returns, reminding those lucky enough to see them how superior this affordable and natural approach to gardening really is.

Another plant of the order is so suitable and useful for this purpose, that if a root or two of it be planted in any shrubbery, it will soon run about, exterminate the weeds, and prove quite a lesson in wild gardening. I allude to the Caucasian Comfrey (Symphytum caucasicum), which grows about twenty inches high, and bears quantities of the loveliest blue pendulous flowers. It, like many others, does much better in a wood, grove, or any kind of shrubbery, than in any other position, filling in the naked spaces between the trees and shrubs, and has a quick–growing and spreading tendency, but never becomes weedy or objectionable. As if to contrast[11] with it, there is the deep crimson Bohemian Comfrey (S. bohemicum), which is sometimes startling from the depth of its vivid colouring; and the white Comfrey (S. orientale), quite a vigorous–growing kind, blooming early in April and May, with the blue Caucasian C.

Another plant from this order is so perfect and helpful for this purpose that if you plant a root or two in any garden, it will quickly spread, eliminate the weeds, and provide a great example of wild gardening. I'm talking about the Caucasian Comfrey (Symphytum caucasicum), which grows to about twenty inches tall and produces lots of beautiful blue hanging flowers. Like many other plants, it thrives much better in a woods, grove, or any type of garden than in any other spot, filling in the bare spaces between trees and shrubs. It grows quickly and spreads out but never becomes weedy or bothersome. In contrast, there's the deep crimson Bohemian Comfrey (S. bohemicum), which can be quite striking due to its intense color; and the white Comfrey (S. orientale), which is a very vigorous grower that blooms early in April and May, alongside the blue Caucasian C.

These Comfreys, indeed, are admirable plants for rough places—the tall and vigorous ones thriving in a ditch or any similar place, and flowering much better and longer than they ever did in the garden proper, in prim borders. There are about twenty species, mostly from Southern and Central Europe, Asia, and Siberia.

These Comfreys are really impressive plants for tough spots—the tall and strong ones do really well in ditches or similar areas, and they bloom much better and longer than they ever did in the main garden, in neat borders. There are around twenty species, mostly from Southern and Central Europe, Asia, and Siberia.

I purposely omit the British Forget–me–nots, wishing now chiefly to show what we may do with exotics quite as hardy as our own wildlings; and we have another Forget–me–not, not British, which surpasses them all—the early Myosotis dissitiflora. This is like a patch of the bluest sky settled down among the moist stones of a rockwork or any similar spot, before our own Forget–me–not has opened its blue eyes, and is admirable for blades or banks in wood or shrubbery, especially in moist districts.

I’m intentionally leaving out the British Forget-me-nots because I want to focus on what we can do with exotics that are just as tough as our local plants. We also have another Forget-me-not that isn’t British, which is even better than the rest—the early Myosotis dissitiflora. This flower looks like a piece of the bluest sky resting among the damp stones of a rock garden or any similar area, before our own Forget-me-not has opened its bright blue flowers. It’s great for borders or banks in woodlands or shrubs, especially in wet areas.

For rocky bare places and sunny sandy banks we have the spreading Gromwell (Lithospermum prostratum), which, when in flower, looks just as if some exquisite alpine Gentian had assumed the form of a low bush, to enable it to hold its own among creeping things and stouter herbs than accompany it on the Alps. The Gromwells are a large and important genus but little known in gardens, some of them, like our native kind, being handsome plants.

For rocky, bare areas and sunny sandy banks, we have the spreading Gromwell (Lithospermum prostratum), which, when in bloom, looks just like some beautiful alpine Gentian that has taken on the shape of a low bush to compete with creeping plants and sturdier herbs that grow alongside it in the Alps. The Gromwells are a large and significant group, but they're not well-known in gardens, with some, like our native variety, being attractive plants.

Among the fairest plants we have are the Lungworts, Pulmonaria, too seldom seen, and partly destroyed through[12] exposure on bare dug and often dry border. The old Pulmonaria (Mertensia virginica) is one of the loveliest spring flowers ever introduced. It is very rare in gardens, but if placed in a moist place near a stream, or in a peat bottom, it will live; whereas it frequently dies in a garden. The newer and more easily grown Mertensia sibirica is a lovely plant, taller and flowering longer. These two plants alone would repay any one for a trial of the wild garden, and will illustrate the fact that for the sake of culture alone (apart from art, beauty, or arrangement) the wild–garden idea is worth carrying out.

Among the most beautiful plants we have are the Lungworts, Pulmonaria, which are too rarely seen and often harmed by being exposed on bare, dry borders. The old Pulmonaria (Mertensia virginica) is one of the most beautiful spring flowers ever introduced. It’s quite rare in gardens, but if planted in a moist area near a stream or in peat, it can thrive; however, it often dies in a traditional garden. The newer and easier to grow Mertensia sibirica is also a lovely plant, taller and blooming for a longer period. These two plants alone would make anyone interested in wild gardening feel rewarded, showing that the idea of creating a wild garden is worth pursuing, not just for the sake of culture but also for art, beauty, and arrangement.

Among the many plants suitable for the wild garden none look more at home than Borage, a few seeds of which scattered over fresh dry ground soon germinate, and form fine patches that will flower during the summer. Although only an annual, once it is introduced there is no fear of losing it, as it comes up somewhere near the same spot each succeeding year, and when in bloom the peculiar Solanum–like shape of the blossoms, and their rich blue colour, make it beautiful.

Among the many plants suitable for a wild garden, none looks more at home than Borage. A few seeds scattered over fresh dry ground quickly germinate and create lovely patches that will flower throughout the summer. Although it's only an annual, once it's introduced, there's no worry about losing it since it comes back to a similar spot each year. When in bloom, the unique Solanum-like shape of the blossoms and their vibrant blue color make it stunning.

The Cretan Borage is a curious old perennial, seldom seen in gardens; and deservedly so, for its growth is robust and its habit coarse. It is, however, a capital plant for the wild garden, or for rough places—in copse, or shrubbery, or lane, where the ample room which it requires would not be begrudged, and where it may take care of itself from year to year, showing among the boldest and the hardiest of the early spring flowers.

The Cretan Borage is an interesting old perennial that’s rarely found in gardens, and for good reason, as it grows vigorously and has a coarse appearance. However, it’s a great plant for a wild garden or rough spots—in a thicket, shrubbery, or along a path—where the ample space it needs wouldn’t be an issue, and where it can thrive on its own year after year, standing out among the boldest and hardiest of early spring flowers.

The Cretan Borage (Borago Cretica).

The Cretan Borage (Borago Cretica).

Thus, though I say little of the Alkanet (Anchusa) tribe, several of which could be found worth a place with our own handsome Evergreen Alkanet, and do not mention other important[13] genera, it will be seen that a whole garden of beauty may be reaped from this tribe alone. Any one who doubts the advantages of carrying out the idea of the wild garden could settle the matter to his satisfaction in a couple of years with these plants alone, in a shrubbery, ditch, lane, copse, or wood, always providing that he takes care to adapt each kind to the position and the soil. For instance, the Giant Comfrey will grow six feet high in rich or moist soil in a partially shaded ditch, and therefore, once fairly started, might be trusted to take care of itself in any position. The Caucasian Comfrey, on the other hand, grows from eighteen inches to two feet high, and is at home in the spaces in a copse or[14] shrubbery. The creeping Forget–me–not (Ompalodes verna) is a little plant that creeps about in grass or among vegetation, not over a span high, or forms a carpet of its own—these points must be considered, and then the rest is gardening of the happiest kind only. These Borageworts, richer in blue flowers than even the gentians, are usually poor rusty things in exposed sunny borders, and also much in the way when out of flower, whereas in shady lanes, copses, open parts of not too dry or impoverished shrubberies, in hedgerow–banks, or ditches, we only notice them in their beautiful bloom.

So, even though I don't say much about the Alkanet (Anchusa) family, many of which could easily hold their own alongside our lovely Evergreen Alkanet, and I don’t bring up other important [13] genera, you can see that a whole garden of beauty can come from this group alone. Anyone who questions the benefits of creating a wild garden could easily prove their point in just a couple of years using these plants alone, whether in a shrubbery, ditch, lane, copse, or wood, as long as they make sure to match each type to the location and soil. For example, the Giant Comfrey can grow up to six feet tall in rich or moist soil in a partially shaded ditch, and once established, it can pretty much look after itself anywhere. In contrast, the Caucasian Comfrey grows between eighteen inches and two feet tall and thrives in the gaps in a copse or [14] shrubbery. The creeping Forget-me-not (Ompalodes verna) is a small plant that spreads across grass or among other plants, just under a foot high, or it can create its own carpet—these factors should be taken into account, and after that, it’s just joyful gardening. These Borageworts, which boast richer blue flowers than even gentians, often look poor and rusty in sunny, exposed borders, and can also be quite bothersome when not in bloom. However, in shady lanes, copses, moderately dry or nutrient-poor shrub areas, hedgerow banks, or ditches, we only notice them in their stunning bloom.

Flowers of Geneva Bugle (Ajuga genevensis), Dwarf Boragewort.

Flowers of Geneva Bugle (Ajuga genevensis), Dwarf Boragewort.


Star of Bethlehem in Grass.

Star of Bethlehem in grass.

CHAPTER III.

EXAMPLE FROM HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS IN GRASS.

EXAMPLE FROM HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS IN GRASS.

We will now turn from the Forget–me–not order to a very different type of vegetation—hardy bulbs and other plants dying down after flowering early in the year, like the Winter Aconite and the Blood–root (Sanguinaria). How many of us really enjoy the beauty which a judicious use of a profusion of hardy Spring–flowering Bulbs affords? How many get beyond the miserable conventionalities of the flower–garden, with its edgings and patchings, and taking up, and drying, and mere playing with our beautiful Spring Bulbs? How many enjoy the exquisite beauty afforded by flowers of this class, established naturally, without troubling us for attention at any time? The subject of decorating with Spring–flowering Bulbs is merely in its infancy; at present we merely place a few of the showiest of them in geometrical lines. The little we do leads to such a very poor result, that numbers of people,[16] alive to the real charms of a garden too, scarcely notice Spring Bulbs at all, regarding them as things which require endless trouble, as interfering with the “bedding–out;” and in fact, as not worth the pains they occasion. This is likely to be the case so long as the most effective and satisfactory of all modes of arranging them is unused; that way is the placing of them in wild and semi–wild parts of country seats, and in the rougher parts of a garden, no matter where it may be situated or how it may be arranged. This way will yield more real interest and beauty than any other.

We will now shift from the Forget-me-not group to a completely different kind of plant—hardy bulbs and other plants that die back after blooming early in the year, like Winter Aconite and Bloodroot (Sanguinaria). How many of us truly appreciate the beauty that comes from a well-planned mix of hardy spring-flowering bulbs? How many go beyond the dull norms of the flower garden, with its neat edges and patches, and instead engage with and dry our beautiful spring bulbs? How many of us enjoy the stunning beauty of these naturally established flowers, which don’t demand our attention at all? The idea of decorating with spring-flowering bulbs is still in its early stages; right now, we just arrange a few of the most striking ones in geometric patterns. What little we do often leads to disappointing results, which makes many people, who appreciate the real charm of a garden, hardly notice spring bulbs at all, seeing them as a hassle that interferes with the “bedding-out” process and ultimately not worth the trouble. This attitude is likely to continue as long as the most effective and rewarding way of arranging them remains unused; that is, placing them in wild and semi-wild areas of country homes and in the less refined parts of a garden, regardless of its layout. This method will create much more genuine interest and beauty than any other approach.

Look, for instance, at the wide and bare belts of grass that wind in and around the shrubberies in nearly every country place; frequently, they never display a particle of plant–beauty, and are merely places to be roughly mown now and then. But if planted here and there with the Snowdrop, the blue Anemone, the Crocus, Scillas, and Winter Aconite, they would in spring surpass in attractiveness the gayest of spring gardens. Cushioned among the grass, these would have a more congenial medium in which to unfold than is offered by the beaten sticky earth of a border; in the grass of spring, their natural bed, they would look far better than ever they do when arranged on the bare earth of a garden. Once carefully planted, they—while an annual source of the greatest interest—occasion no trouble whatever.ill16

Look at the wide, empty patches of grass that curve in and around the shrubs in almost every country setting; often, they don’t have any beauty and are just areas that get mowed occasionally. But if you planted Snowdrops, blue Anemones, Crocuses, Scillas, and Winter Aconite here and there, they would be more beautiful in the spring than the brightest spring gardens. Nestled in the grass, they would have a much better environment to grow than the hard, clumpy soil of a garden bed; in the spring grass, their natural habitat, they would look far better than when placed on bare soil. Once they're carefully planted, they provide a consistent source of beauty every year without any hassle.ill16

The association of exotic and British wild flowers in the Wild Garden.—The Bell–flowered Scilla, naturalised with our own Wood Hyacinth.

The combination of exotic and British wildflowers in the Wild Garden.—The Bell-flowered Scilla, naturalized alongside our own Wood Hyacinth.

Their leaves die down so early in spring that they would scarcely interfere with the mowing of the grass, if that were desired, but I should not attempt to mow the grass in such places till the season of vernal beauty had quite passed by. Surely it is enough to have a portion of lawn as smooth as a carpet at all times, without sending the mower to shave the[17] “long and pleasant grass” of the other parts of the grounds. It would indeed be worth while to leave many parts of the grass unmown for the sake of growing many beautiful plants in it. If in some spot where a wide fringe of grass spreads out in the bay of a shrubbery or plantation, and upon this carpet of rising and unshaven verdure there be dotted, in addition to the few pretty natural flowers that happened to take possession of it, the blue Apennine Anemone, the Snowdrop, the Snowflake, Crocuses in variety, Scillas, Grape–Hyacinths, earlier and smaller Narcissi, the Wood Anemone, and any other pretty Spring flowers that were suitable to the soil and position, we should have a glimpse of the vernal beauty of temperate and northern climes, every flower relieved by grass blades and green leaves, the whole devoid of any trace of man, or his exceeding weakness for tracing wall–paper patterns, where everything should be varied, indefinite, and changeful. In such a garden it would be evident that the artist had caught the true meaning of nature in her disposition of vegetation, without sacrificing one jot of anything of value in the garden, but, on the contrary, adding the highest beauty to spots devoid of the slightest interest. In connection with this matter I may as well say here that mowing the grass once[18] a fortnight in pleasure grounds, as now practised, is a great and costly mistake. We want shaven carpets of grass here and there, but what cruel nonsense both to men and grass it is to shave as many foolish men shave their faces! There are indeed places where they boast of mowing forty acres! Who would not rather see the waving grass with countless flowers than a close shaven surface without a blossom? Imagine the labour wasted in this ridiculous labour of cutting the heads off flowers and grass. Let the grass grow till fit to cut for hay, and we may enjoy in it a world of lovely flowers that will blossom and perfect their growth before the grass has to be mown; more than one person who has carried out the ideas expressed in this book has waving lawns of feathery grass where he used to shave the grass every ten days; a prairie of flowers where a daisy was not allowed to peep; and some addition to his hay crop as he allows the grass to grow till it is fit for that purpose.

Their leaves start to die off so early in spring that they barely get in the way of mowing the grass, if that's what you want to do, but I wouldn't try to mow the grass in those areas until the beautiful spring season is completely over. It's enough to have at least part of the lawn smooth like a carpet all the time, without needing to mow the "long and pleasant grass" in other parts of the yard. It would definitely be worthwhile to leave many areas of grass unmowed to let beautiful plants grow. If there’s a spot where a wide fringe of grass spreads out in the bay of a shrubbery or planting, and on this carpet of rising, uncut greenery there are, along with the few pretty natural flowers that happened to grow there, the blue Apennine Anemone, Snowdrop, Snowflake, various Crocuses, Scillas, Grape-Hyacinths, earlier and smaller Narcissi, Wood Anemone, and any other lovely spring flowers that fit the soil and location, we’d get a glimpse of the spring beauty of temperate and northern climates, with every flower highlighted by blades of grass and green leaves, the whole scene free of any sign of man or his tendency to create uniform wall-paper patterns, where everything should be varied, indefinite, and changeable. In such a garden, it would be clear that the artist truly understood nature's way of arranging vegetation, without sacrificing anything of value in the garden, but rather enhancing the beauty of areas that might otherwise seem uninteresting. On this topic, I should mention that mowing the grass every two weeks in recreational spaces, as is commonly done now, is a significant and costly mistake. We want shaven carpets of grass here and there, but it’s just cruel nonsense to treat grass like many foolish men treat their faces! There are actually places where they brag about mowing forty acres! Who wouldn't prefer the sight of waving grass covered in countless flowers to a closely shaved surface with no blossoms? Consider the labor wasted on this absurd task of cutting off the heads of flowers and grass. Let the grass grow until it's ready to be cut for hay, and we can enjoy a world of beautiful flowers that will bloom and fully develop before the grass needs to be mowed; more than one person who has embraced the ideas presented in this book has lush lawns of feathery grass where they used to shave the grass every ten days; a prairie of flowers where a single daisy wasn't allowed to peek through; and also some extra hay because they let the grass grow until it was ready for that purpose.

It is not only to places in which shrubberies, and plantations, and belts of grass in the rougher parts of the pleasure–ground, and shady moss–bordered wood–walks occur that these remarks apply. The suburban garden, with its single fringe of planting, may show like beauty, to some extent. It may have the Solomon’s Seal arching forth from a shady recess, behind tufts of the sweet–scented Narcissus, while in every case there may be wild fringes of strong and hardy flowers in the spring sun, and they cannot be cut off by harsh winds as when exposed in the open garden. What has already been stated is, I hope, sufficient to show to everybody the kind of place that may be used for their culture. Wild and semi–wild places, rough banks in or near the pleasure–ground or flower–garden,[19] such spots as perhaps at present contain nothing but weeds, or any naturally rough or unused spot about a garden—such are the places for them. Even where all the lawn must be mown the Snowdrop may be enjoyed in early spring, for its leaves die down, or at all events ripen sufficiently before there is any occasion to mow the grass.

It’s not just the areas with shrubberies, plantings, grassy patches in the rougher parts of the garden, and shady moss-lined paths that these comments apply to. The suburban garden, with its small area of planting, can also show similar beauty to some extent. You might find Solomon's Seal arching out from a shady nook, behind clusters of sweet-scented Narcissus. In every case, there can be wild edges of strong and hardy flowers basking in the spring sun, and they’re sheltered from harsh winds unlike in a completely open garden. What I've shared should be enough to demonstrate the kind of space suitable for their growth. Wild and semi-wild places, rough banks in or near the garden, or flower garden,[19] like areas that might currently be overrun with weeds or any naturally untamed or unused spot in a garden—those are the perfect places for them. Even where the lawn needs to be mowed, you can still appreciate the Snowdrop in early spring, as its leaves die down or, at least, mature enough before it's time to cut the grass.

The Turk’s Cap Lily, naturalised in the grass by wood–walk.

The Turk’s Cap Lily, grown wild in the grass by the walking path in the woods.

But the prettiest results are only attainable where the grass need not be mown till nearly the time the meadows are mown. Then we may have gardens of Narcissi, such as men never dared to dream about a dozen years ago; such as no one ever thought possible in a garden. In grass not mown at all we may even enjoy many of the Lilies, and all the lovelier and more stately bulbous flowers of the meadows and mountain lawns of Europe, Asia, and America.

But the most beautiful results can only be achieved where the grass doesn’t need to be cut until almost the time the meadows are mowed. Then we can have gardens of daffodils that people would never have imagined just a dozen years ago; gardens that no one thought were possible. In grass that isn’t cut at all, we can even enjoy many of the lilies and all the more elegant and grand bulb flowers from the meadows and mountain lawns of Europe, Asia, and America.

On a stretch of good grass which need not be mown, and on fairly good soil in any part of our country, beauty may be[20] enjoyed such as has hitherto only gladdened the heart of the rare wanderer on the high mountain lawns and copses, in May when the earth children laugh in multitudes on their mother’s breast.

On a patch of good grass that doesn’t need mowing, and on decent soil anywhere in our country, you can experience beauty that until now has only brought joy to the few travelers on high mountain meadows and woods, in May when the earth's children smile in abundance on their mother’s lap.[20]

All planting in the grass should be in natural groups or prettily fringed colonies, growing to and fro as they like after planting. Lessons in this grouping are to be had in woods, copses, heaths, and meadows, by those who look about them as they go. At first many will find it difficult to get out of formal masses, but that may be got over by studying natural groupings of wild flowers. Once established, the plants soon begin to group themselves in a way that leaves nothing to desire.

All planting in the grass should be in natural clusters or beautifully scattered groups, growing freely as they please after planting. You can learn about this grouping in forests, thickets, heathlands, and meadows by paying attention as you explore. Initially, many might struggle to move away from rigid arrangements, but this can be overcome by observing how wildflowers group naturally. Once settled, the plants will quickly start to arrange themselves in a way that's just perfect.

Crocuses in turf, in grove of Summer leafing trees.

Crocuses in the grass, in a grove of summer-leaved trees.


Group of Globe flowers (Trollius) in marshy place: type of the nobler Northern flowers little cultivated in gardens.

Group of Globe flowers (Trollius) in a marshy area: a type of the more refined Northern flowers that are not commonly grown in gardens.

CHAPTER IV.

EXAMPLE FROM THE GLOBE FLOWER ORDER.

EXAMPLE FROM THE GLOBE FLOWER ORDER.

Let us next see what may be done with the Buttercup order of plants. It embraces many things widely diverse in aspect from these burnished ornaments of northern meadows and mountains. The first thing I should take from it to embellish the wild wood is the sweet–scented Virgin’s Bower (Clematis flammula), a native of the south of Europe, but as hardy and free in all parts of Britain as the common Hawthorn. And as the Hawthorn sweetens the breath of early summer, so will this add fragrance to the autumnal months. It is never to be seen half so beautiful as when crawling over some tree or decayed stump; and if its profuse masses of white bloom do not attract, its fragrance is sure to do so. An open glade in a wood, or open spaces on banks near a wood or shrubbery, would be charming for it, while in the garden or pleasure–ground it may be used[22] as a creeper over old stumps, trellising, or the like. Clematis campaniflora, with flowers like a campanula, and of a pale purplish hue, and the beautiful white Clematis montana grandiflora, a native of Nepaul, are almost equally beautiful, and many others of the family are worthy of a place, rambling over old trees, bushes, hedgerows, or tangling over banks. These single wild species of Clematis are more graceful than the large Hybrids now common; they are very hardy and free. In mild and seashore districts a beautiful kind, common in Algeria, and in the islands on and the shores of the Mediterranean (Clematis cirrhosa), will be found most valuable—being nearly evergreen, and flowering very early in spring—even in winter in the South of England.ill22

Let’s see what we can do with the Buttercup family of plants. It includes many things that look quite different from these shiny decorations of northern meadows and mountains. The first plant I would choose to enhance the wild woods is the sweet-scented Virgin’s Bower (Clematis flammula), which is native to southern Europe but grows just as well and freely throughout Britain as the common Hawthorn. Just like the Hawthorn adds a sweet smell to early summer, this plant brings fragrance to the autumn months. It’s never seen as stunning as when it climbs over a tree or decayed stump; and even if its abundance of white blooms doesn’t catch your eye, its scent will definitely draw you in. An open glade in the woods or clear areas along banks near a wood or shrubbery would be lovely for it, and in the garden or recreational area, it can be used as a climber over old stumps, trellises, or similar structures. Clematis campaniflora, with flowers resembling a campanula and a pale purplish tint, along with the gorgeous white Clematis montana grandiflora, native to Nepal, are almost equally stunning, and many others in the family deserve a spot, climbing over old trees, bushes, hedgerows, or trailing along banks. These individual wild species of Clematis are more graceful than the large hybrids that are now common; they are very hardy and vigorous. In milder coastal regions, a beautiful variety common in Algeria and on the Mediterranean islands and shores (Clematis cirrhosa) will be incredibly valuable—it's nearly evergreen and flowers very early in spring—even in winter in southern England.[22]ill22

The Mountain Clematis (C. montana).

The Mountain Clematis (C. montana).

Next in this order we come to the Wind Flowers, or Anemones, and here we must pause to select, for more beautiful flowers do not adorn this world of flowers. Have we a bit of rich grass not mown? If so, the beautiful downy white and yellow Anemones of the Alps (A. alpina and A. sulphurea) may be grown there. Any sunny bushy bank or southern slope which we wish to embellish with vernal beauty? Then select Anemone blanda, a small but lovely blue kind; place it in open bare spots to begin with, as it is very dwarf, and it will at Christmas, and from that time onward through the spring, open its large flowers of the deepest sky blue.[23] The common garden Anemone (A. Coronaria) will not be fastidious, but had better be placed in open bare sandy places; and the splendid Anemone fulgens will prove most attractive, as it glows with fiery scarlet. Of other Anemones, hardy, free, and beautiful enough to be made wild in our shrubberies, pleasure–grounds, and wilds, the Japan Anemone (A. japonica) and its white varieties, A. trifolia and A. sylvestris, are the best of the exotic species. The Japan Anemones grow so strongly that they will take care of themselves even among stiff brushwood, brambles, etc.; and they are beautifully fitted for scattering along the low, half–wild margins of shrubberies and groups. The interesting little A. trifolia is not unlike our own wood Anemone, and will grow in similar places.ill23

Next in this order, we come to the Wind Flowers, or Anemones, and here we should take a moment to choose, as no more beautiful flowers grace this world of blooms. Do we have a patch of rich, unmowed grass? If so, the lovely downy white and yellow Anemones of the Alps (A. alpina and A. sulphurea) can thrive there. Any sunny, bushy bank or southern slope that we want to enhance with spring beauty? Then choose Anemone blanda, a small but beautiful blue variety; plant it in open, bare spots to start, as it is quite short, and it will bloom with its large flowers of the deepest sky blue from Christmas onward through the spring.[23] The common garden Anemone (A. coronaria) is not picky, but it’s best suited for open, bare sandy areas; and the stunning Anemone fulgens will be very eye-catching, glowing with a fiery scarlet. Among other hardy, free, and beautiful Anemones that can be planted wild in our gardens, pleasure grounds, and natural areas, the Japan Anemone (A. japonica) and its white varieties, A. trifolia and A. sylvestris, are the best of the exotic types. Japan Anemones grow so robustly that they can thrive even in dense brushwood, brambles, etc.; and they are beautifully suited for scattering along the low, half-wild edges of shrubs and groups. The interesting little A. trifolia resembles our native wood Anemone and will grow in similar locations.ill23

The White Japan Anemone in the Wild Garden.

The White Japan Anemone in the Wild Garden.

Few plants are more lovely in the wild garden than the White Japan Anemone. The idea of the wild garden first arose in the writer’s mind as a home for a numerous class of coarse–growing plants, to which people begrudge room in their borders, such as the Golden Rods, Michaelmas Daisies, Compass plants, and a host of others, which are beautiful for a season only, or perhaps too rampant for what are called choice borders and beds. This Anemone is one of the most beautiful of garden flowers, and one which is as well suited for the wild garden as the kinds alluded to. It grows well in any good soil in copse or shrubbery, and increases rapidly. Partial shade seems to suit it; and in any case the effect of the large white flowers is, if anything, more beautiful in half–shady places. The flowers, too, are more lasting here than where they are fully exposed.

Few plants are more beautiful in the wild garden than the White Japan Anemone. The concept of the wild garden first came to the writer as a space for a wide variety of coarse-growing plants that people don't want in their borders, like Golden Rods, Michaelmas Daisies, Compass plants, and many others, which are lovely for only a season or, perhaps, too aggressive for what are known as choice borders and beds. This Anemone is one of the most stunning garden flowers and is just as suitable for the wild garden as the previously mentioned types. It thrives in any good soil in woodland areas or shrubbery and grows quickly. It seems to prefer partial shade, and in any case, the impact of the large white flowers is, if anything, more striking in semi-shaded spots. The flowers also last longer here than in areas where they are fully exposed.

As for the Apennine Anemone (the white as well as the blue variety), it is one of the loveliest spring flowers of any clime, and should be in every garden, in the borders, and scattered thinly here and there in woods and shrubberies, so that it may become “naturalised.” It is scarcely a British flower, being a native of the south of Europe; but having strayed into our wilds and plantations occasionally, it is now included in most books on British plants. The yellow A. ranunculoides, a doubtful native, found in one or two spots, but not really British, is well worth growing, thriving well on the chalk, and being very beautiful.

As for the Apennine Anemone (both the white and blue varieties), it’s one of the most beautiful spring flowers in any climate and deserves a spot in every garden, along the borders, and spread out here and there in woods and shrubberies, allowing it to become “naturalized.” It’s not really a British flower, as it originates from southern Europe; however, since it has occasionally made its way into our wild areas and gardens, it is now featured in most books on British plants. The yellow A. ranunculoides, which is a questionable native and can be found in a few locations but isn’t truly British, is definitely worth growing, thriving well on chalky soil and being exceptionally beautiful.

The large Hepatica angulosa will grow almost as freely as Celandine among shrubs and in half–shady spots, and we all know how readily the old kinds grow on all garden soils of ordinary quality. There are about ten or twelve varieties of the common Hepatica (Anemone Hepatica) grown in British nurseries and gardens, and all the colours of the species should be represented in every collection of spring flowers.[25]

The large Hepatica angulosa grows almost as freely as Celandine among shrubs and in partially shaded areas, and we all know how easily the older varieties thrive in most average garden soils. There are about ten or twelve varieties of the common Hepatica (Anemone Hepatica) cultivated in British nurseries and gardens, and all the colors of the species should be included in every collection of spring flowers.[25]

Anemones in the Riviera. Thrive equally well in any open soil here, only flowering later.

Anemones on the Riviera. They thrive just as well in any open soil here, but bloom later.

There are many of the Ranunculi, not natives of Britain, which would grow as freely as our native kinds. Many will doubtless remember with pleasure the pretty button–like white flowers of the Fair Maids of France (Ranunculus aconitifolius fl. pl.), a frequent ornament of the old mixed border. This, and the wild form from which it comes—a frequent plant in alpine meadows—may also be enjoyed in our wild garden. Quite distinct from all these, and of chastest beauty when well grown, is R. amplexicaulis, with flowers of pure white, and simple leaves of a dark glaucous green and flowing graceful outline; a hardy and charming plant on almost any soil. This is one of the elegant exotic forms of a family well represented in the golden type in our meadows, and therefore it is welcome as giving us a strange form. Such a plant deserves that pains be taken to establish it in good soil, in spots where a rank vegetation may not weaken or destroy it.

There are many types of Ranunculus that aren’t native to Britain but could thrive just as well as our local species. Many will likely remember fondly the lovely button-like white flowers of the Fair Maids of France (Ranunculus aconitifolius fl. pl.), a common feature in traditional mixed borders. This plant, along with its wild counterpart found often in alpine meadows, can also be appreciated in our natural gardens. Quite different from these is R. amplexicaulis, which boasts flowers of pure white and simple leaves that are a dark, silvery green with a flowing, graceful shape; it’s a hardy and delightful plant that can grow in almost any soil. This is one of the elegant exotic varieties from a family that is well represented in our meadows with the golden type, making it a valuable addition for its unique appearance. Such a plant deserves careful attention to thrive in good soil, in areas where overly vigorous vegetation won’t overpower or damage it.

Of the Globe Flowers (Trollius), there are various kinds apart from our own, all rich in colour, fragrant, and hardy in a remarkable degree. These are among the noblest wild–garden plants—quite hardy, free of growth in the heaviest of soil and wettest of climates, affording a lovely type of early summer flower–life, and one distinct from any usually seen in our fields or gardens; for these handsome Globe flowers are among the many flowers that for years have found no place in the garden proper. They are lovely in groups or[26] colonies, in cold grassy places, where many other plants would perish.ill26

Of the Globe Flowers (Trollius), there are various types besides our own, all colorful, fragrant, and exceptionally robust. These are among the finest wild garden plants—completely hardy, thriving in the heaviest soil and wettest climates, providing a beautiful display of early summer blooms that is distinct from what we usually see in our fields or gardens; for these attractive Globe flowers have been overlooked in traditional gardens for years. They look great in clusters or colonies, even in cold, grassy areas where many other plants would struggle to survive.[26]ill26

The Green Hellebore in the Wild Garden.

The Green Hellebore in the Wild Garden.

The Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) should be naturalised in every country seat in Britain—it is as easy to do so as to introduce the thistle. It may be placed quite under the branches of deciduous trees, will come up and flower when the trees are naked, will have its foliage developed before the leaves come on the trees, and be afterwards hidden from sight. Thus masses of this earliest flower may be grown without the slightest sacrifice of space, and only be noticed when bearing a bloom on every little stem. That fine old little plant, the Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger), likes partial shade better than full exposure, and should be used abundantly, giving it rather snug and warm positions, so that its flowers may be encouraged to open well and fully. Any other kinds might also be used. Recently many kinds of Helleborus have been added to our gardens, not all of them so conspicuous at first sight as the Christmas Rose, yet they are of remarkable beauty of foliage and habit as well as of blossom, and they flower in the spring. These, too, show the advantage of the wild garden as regards cultivation. They[27] will thrive much better in any bushy places, or copses, or in mutually sheltering groups on warm banks and slopes, even in hedge banks, old quarries, or rough mounds, than in the ordinary garden border. Of the difference in the effect in the two cases it is needless to speak.

The Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) should be naturalized in every country house in Britain—it’s as easy to do as introducing a thistle. It can be planted right under the branches of deciduous trees, blooming when the trees are bare, with its leaves appearing before the trees' leaves come in, and later being hidden from view. This means you can grow clusters of this early flower without taking up much space, only noticing them when they’re in full bloom on each little stem. The lovely little Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger) prefers partial shade over full sun, so it should be used generously, placed in cozy and warm spots to encourage its flowers to open well. Other types can also be included. Recently, many varieties of Helleborus have been added to our gardens. Not all of them are as showy at first glance as the Christmas Rose, but they have stunning foliage and growth, as well as beautiful blossoms, and they bloom in spring. These too demonstrate the benefits of cultivating a wild garden. They[27] will thrive much better in bushy areas, copses, or in sheltered groups on warm banks and slopes, even in hedge banks, old quarries, or rough mounds, than in regular garden borders. There's no need to discuss the difference in the effect between the two settings.

Some of the Monkshoods are very handsome, but all of them virulent poisons; and, bearing in mind what fatal accidents have arisen from their use, they are better not used at all in the garden proper. Amongst tall and vigorous herbaceous plants few are more suitable for wild and semi–wild places. They are hardy and robust enough to grow anywhere in shady or half–shady spots; and their tall spikes, loaded with blue flowers, are very beautiful. An illustration in the chapter on the plants suited for the wild garden shows the common Aconite in a Somersetshire valley in company with the Butterbur and the Hemlock. In such a place its beauty is very striking. The larger rich blue kinds, and the blue and white one, are very showy grown in deep soils, in which they attain a great height. When out of flower, like many other stately Perennials, they were often stiff and ugly in the old borders and beds. In the wild garden their stately beauty will be more remarkable than ever under the green leaves in copses and by streams. And when flower–time is gone, their stems, no longer tied into bundles or cut in by the knife, will group finely with other vigorous herbaceous vegetation.

Some Monkshoods are really attractive, but they’re all highly toxic; considering the deadly accidents that have resulted from using them, it's better not to plant them in the main garden at all. Among tall, strong herbaceous plants, few are more suitable for wild or semi-wild areas. They’re tough and can grow in shady or partially shady spots; their tall spikes, filled with blue flowers, are quite beautiful. An illustration in the chapter on plants for wild gardens shows the common Aconite in a Somersetshire valley alongside Butterbur and Hemlock. In that setting, its beauty is very impressive. The larger rich blue varieties, along with the blue and white ones, look stunning when grown in deep soil, where they can reach great heights. When not in bloom, like many other majestic perennials, they often looked stiff and unattractive in old borders and beds. In a wild garden, their grand beauty will stand out even more under the green leaves in thickets and by streams. And when the blooming season is over, their stems, no longer bundled or cut back, will blend beautifully with other vigorous herbaceous plants.

The Delphiniums, or tall Perennial Larkspurs, are amongst the most beautiful of all flowers. They embrace almost every shade of blue, from the rich dark tone of D. grandiflora to the[28] charming cærulean tints of such as D. Belladonna; and being usually of a tall and strong type, will make way among long grasses and vigorous weeds, unlike many things for which we have to recommend an open space, or a wood with nothing but a carpet of moss under the trees.28

The Delphiniums, or tall Perennial Larkspurs, are some of the most beautiful flowers you can find. They feature almost every shade of blue, from the deep dark tone of D. grandiflora to the lovely cerulean shades of varieties like D. Belladonna. Usually tall and sturdy, they can thrive among tall grasses and strong weeds, unlike many other plants that we recommend for open spaces or woods with just a mossy carpet under the trees.28

Tall Perennial Larkspurs, naturalised in Shrubbery (1878).

Tall Perennial Larkspurs, naturalized in Shrubbery (1878).

One of the prettiest effects which I have ever seen was a colony of tall Larkspurs. Portions of old roots of several species and varieties had been chopped off when a bed of these plants was dug in the autumn. For convenience sake the refuse had been thrown into the neighbouring shrubbery, far in among the shrubs and trees. Here they grew in half–open spaces, which were so far removed from the margin that they were not dug and were not seen. When I saw the Larkspurs in flower they were certainly the loveliest things that one could see. They were more beautiful than they are in borders or beds, not growing in such close stiff tufts, but mingling with and relieved by the trees above and the shrubs around. Little more need be said to any one who knows and cares about such plants, and has an opportunity of planting in such neglected places. This case points out that one might make wild gardens from the mere parings and thinnings of[29] the beds and borders in autumn in any place where there is a collection of good hardy plants.

One of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen was a group of tall Larkspurs. Some old roots from various species and types had been cut off when a bed of these plants was dug up in the autumn. For convenience, the scraps were tossed into the nearby shrubbery, deep among the shrubs and trees. Here, they grew in partially open spots, far enough from the edge that they weren’t disturbed and went unnoticed. When I saw the Larkspurs in bloom, they were definitely the most stunning things you could find. They were more beautiful than in traditional borders or beds, not growing in tight, rigid clumps, but blending in and framed by the trees above and the shrubs around. Little more needs to be said to anyone who knows and appreciates such plants and has the chance to plant in these overlooked spots. This example shows that you could create wild gardens from the simple cuttings and thinnings of[29] the beds and borders in autumn wherever there’s a collection of good, hardy plants.

The engraving on the next page represents one of the most beautiful effects obtained in his wild garden by an acquaintance of mine who began when he knew very little of plants and their favoured haunts, and succeeded well in a not very favourable site. Herbaceous Pæonies were amongst those that succeeded best. The effect was very beautiful, either close at hand or seen at a considerable distance off. Herbaceous Pæonies are amongst the most free, vigorous, and hardy of perennial plants, and with them alone most novel and beautiful effects may be carried out in most places where there is room. Even in comparatively small gardens, a group or two outside the margin of a shrubbery would be desirable. The effect of the blooms amongst the long grass of the wild garden is finer than any they present in borders, and when out of flower they do not seem to be in the way, as they often are thought to be when in borders and beds. It is almost needless to speak here of the great variety of forms now obtainable amongst these herbaceous Pæonies, many of which are agreeably scented. The older forms were not remarkable in that respect, but rather the contrary. In addition to the splendour of colour for which Pæonies are long and well known, there are now many delicately–coloured and tinted varieties. The whole race is undeservedly neglected. People spend plenty of money on greenhouses which will never produce anything so handsome as a well–grown group of herbaceous Pæonies in the open garden; yet when they are grown they are often begrudged a few feet of good soil, though that is all they would require for years at a time. My friend’s[30] Pæonies formed a group that could be seen from a distance; when I saw them they were surrounded by long and waving grass. I cannot give any idea of the fine effect.

The engraving on the next page shows one of the most stunning effects achieved in his wild garden by a friend of mine who started with very little knowledge about plants and their preferred environments, yet he succeeded in a rather challenging location. Herbaceous peonies were among the plants that thrived best. The effect was beautiful, whether viewed up close or from far away. Herbaceous peonies are some of the most robust, vigorous, and resilient perennial plants, and just with them alone, incredibly unique and beautiful outcomes can be created in most areas where there's space. Even in relatively small gardens, a couple of groups outside the edge of a shrubbery would be a great addition. The sight of blooms among the tall grass of the wild garden is more striking than in traditional borders, and when they're not in bloom, they don't seem to take up space as they often do in beds. It's almost unnecessary to mention the vast variety of forms now available among these herbaceous peonies, many of which have a pleasant fragrance. The older varieties weren't known for that, quite the opposite. In addition to the vibrant colors for which peonies have been recognized for a long time, there are now many subtly colored and shaded varieties. This entire group of plants is unfairly overlooked. People spend a lot of money on greenhouses that will never yield anything as beautiful as a well-cultivated group of herbaceous peonies outdoors; yet when they are grown, they are often denied a few feet of good soil, even though that's all they would need for years. My friend's [30] peonies formed a cluster that could be seen from afar; when I saw them, they were surrounded by tall, swaying grass. I can’t quite capture the stunning effect.

Double Crimson Pæonies in grass.

Double Crimson Peonies in grass.

The Clematis–like Atragene alpina is one of my favourite flowers—seldom seen now–a–days, or indeed at any time, out of a botanical garden, and till lately not often seen in one. It likes to trail over an old stump, or through a thin low bush, or over a rocky bank, and it is a perfectly hardy plant. Speaking of such plants as this, one would like to draw a sharp distinction between them and the various weedy and indistinct subjects which are now creeping into cultivation owing to the revival of interest in hardy plants. Many of these have some botanical interest, but they can be only useless in the garden. Our chief danger now is getting plants into cultivation which are neither very distinct nor very beautiful, while perhaps we neglect many of the really fine kinds. This[31] Atragene is a precious plant for low bush and bank wild garden.

The Clematis-like Atragene alpina is one of my favorite flowers—rarely seen these days, or really at any time, outside of a botanical garden, and until recently not often seen even there. It loves to trail over an old stump, through a low bush, or along a rocky bank, and it is completely hardy. When talking about plants like this, it’s important to clearly distinguish them from the various weedy and nondescript types that are now starting to be cultivated due to the renewed interest in hardy plants. Many of these have some botanical value, but they’re mostly useless in the garden. Our main concern now is bringing into cultivation plants that are neither very unique nor very beautiful, while we might overlook many of the truly excellent varieties. This[31]Atragene is a valuable plant for low bush and bank wild gardens.

Among plants which one never sees, and which, indeed, one never ought to see, in a flower garden, are the Meadow Rues; and yet there is a quiet beauty and grace about these plants which entitle them to some consideration; and the flowers, too, of certain species, particularly the one here shown in the illustration on page 1, are of singular beauty. When it is considered that all the species will grow anywhere—in any hedgerow or lane or byeway, or among coarse grass, or in a copse, or under the shrubs, in places usually abandoned to common weeds, there is no reason why numbers of them should not be rescued from the oblivion of the botanic garden.

Among plants that you never see, and really shouldn’t see, in a flower garden, are the Meadow Rues. Yet, there’s a quiet beauty and elegance about these plants that deserves some attention; the flowers, especially the one shown in the illustration on page 1, are uniquely beautiful. Considering that all the species can grow anywhere—in any hedgerow, lane, byway, among coarse grass, in a copse, or under shrubs, in places usually left to common weeds—there’s no reason why many of them shouldn’t be saved from being overlooked in the botanical garden.


CHAPTER V.

PLANTS CHIEFLY FITTED FOR THE WILD GARDEN.
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PLANTS BEST SUITED FOR THE WILD GARDEN.
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The Giant Scabious (8 feet high). (Cephalaria procera.)

The Giant Scabious (8 feet tall). (Cephalaria procera.)

What first suggested the idea of the wild garden, and even the name to me, was the desire to provide a home for a great number of exotic plants that are unfitted for garden culture in the old sense. Many of these plants have great beauty when in flower, and perhaps at other seasons, but they are frequently so free and vigorous in growth that they overrun and destroy all their more delicate neighbours. Many, too, are so coarse that they are objectionable in choice borders, and after flowering they leave a blank or a mass of unsightly stems. These plants are unsightly in gardens, and the main cause of the neglect of hardy flowers; yet many are beautiful at certain stages. A tall Harebell, for example, stiffly tied up in a garden border, as has been the fashion where plants of this kind have been grown at all, is at best of times an unsightly object; but the same plant growing amongst the long[33] grass in a thin wood is lovely. The Golden–rods and Michaelmas Daisies used to overrun the old mixed border, and were with it abolished. But even the poorest of these seen together in a New England wood in autumn form a picture. So also there are numerous exotic plants of which the individual flowers may not be so striking, but which, grown in groups and colonies, and seen at some little distance off, afford beautiful aspects of vegetation, and quite new so far as gardens are concerned. When I first wrote this book, not one of these plants was in cultivation outside botanic gardens. It was even considered by the best friends of hardy flowers a mistake to recommend one of them, for they knew that it was the predominance of these weedy vigorous subjects that made people give up hardy flowers for the sake of the glare of bedding plants; therefore, the wild garden in the case of these particular plants opens up to us a new world of infinite and strange beauty. In it every plant vigorous enough not to require the care of the cultivator or a choice place in the[34] mixed border will find a home. Of such plants there are numbers in every northern and mountainous country, which travellers may gather and afterwards grow in their own gardens. The taller Achilleas, the stately Aconites, the seldom–seen Actæas, the huge and vigorous, but at certain seasons handsome, Althæas, Angelica with its fine foliage, the herbaceous kinds of Aralia from the American woods, also with fine foliage, the Wormwood family (Artemisia), the stronger kinds of American cotton–weed (Asclepias), certain of the vigorous species of Asparagus, Asters and their allies in great variety, the larger and more vigorous species of Astragalus, certain of the larger species of Betonica, pretty, and with delicate flowers, but hardly fit for the mixed border, various free and vigorous exotic Grasses, large and showy Bupthalmums, the handsome creeping Bindweeds, too free in a garden, the most vigorous Campanulas, exotic Thistles (Carduus) and their allies, the more remarkable kinds of Carex, numerous Centaureas, somewhat too coarse for the garden; and among other strong and hardy genera, the following are chiefly suitable for the wild garden:

What inspired the idea of the wild garden and even the name for me was the wish to create a home for many exotic plants that don't thrive in traditional gardens. Many of these plants are very beautiful when they bloom and perhaps at other times, but they often grow so vigorously that they can overtake and suffocate their more delicate neighbors. Some are so coarse that they’re not suitable for carefully designed borders, and after they bloom, they leave behind unsightly stems or empty spots. These plants can look unattractive in gardens, and they often contribute to the neglect of more delicate flowers; however, many of them are stunning at particular stages. For instance, a tall Harebell, when tightly tied up in a garden border—as was the norm for growing these types of plants—is not very appealing; yet the same plant in the long grass of a thin wood is beautiful. The Golden-rods and Michaelmas Daisies used to dominate the old mixed borders, but they were removed along with them. Still, even the less glamorous of these plants together in a New England wood in autumn create a lovely scene. There are also many exotic plants whose individual flowers may not stand out, but when grown in groups or colonies, and viewed from a little distance, they create beautiful vistas of vegetation that are completely fresh in terms of gardens. When I first wrote this book, not a single one of these plants was cultivated outside of botanical gardens. Even the most ardent supporters of hardy flowers believed it would be a mistake to recommend any of them, knowing that the prevalence of these wild, vigorous plants led people to abandon hardy flowers in favor of the flashy bedding plants. Thus, the wild garden, regarding these particular plants, opens up a new world of infinite and strange beauty. In it, every plant that is hardy enough not to need much care or a prime spot in the mixed border will find a place. There are many such plants in every northern and mountainous region, which travelers can collect and later grow in their own gardens. The taller Achilleas, the majestic Aconites, the rarely seen Actæas, the large and hearty but sometimes attractive Althæas, Angelica with its delicate leaves, the herbaceous types of Aralia from American woods, which also have beautiful leaves, the Wormwood family (Artemisia), the stronger varieties of American cotton-weed (Asclepias), some tough species of Asparagus, Asters and their relatives in great variety, the larger and more robust types of Astragalus, some of the larger species of Betonica, pretty with delicate flowers yet not quite suited for mixed borders, various free-spirited and robust exotic Grasses, large and eye-catching Bupthalmums, beautiful creeping Bindweeds, a bit too exuberant for gardens, the hardiest Campanulas, exotic Thistles (Carduus) and their relatives, the more remarkable kinds of Carex, and numerous Centaureas that are a bit too rough for garden settings; among other strong and sturdy genera, the following are particularly well-suited for the wild garden:

Crambe. Galega. Rhaponticum.
Digitalis. Helenium. Rheum.
Dipsacus. Helianthus. Rudbeckia.
Doronicum. Heracleum. Scolymus.
Echinacea. Inula. Senecio.
Echinops. Kitaibelia. Sida.
Elymus. Lavatera. Silphium.
Epilobium. Ligularia. Solidago.
Eryngium. Ligusticum. Sonchus.
Eupatorium. Mulgedium. Symphytum.
Euphorbia. Onopordon. Veratrum.
Ferula. Phytolacca. Verbascum.
Funkia. Polygonum. Vernonia.

Giant Cow Parsnip. Type of Great Siberian herbaceous vegetation. For rough places only.

Giant Cow Parsnip. A type of large Siberian herbaceous plant. Suitable only for rugged areas.


CHAPTER VI.

DITCHES AND NARROW SHADY LANES, COPSES, HEDGEROWS, AND THICKETS.
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DITCHES AND NARROW SHADED PATHS, SMALL WOODS, HEDGEROWS, AND THICK BRUSH.
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Foliage of Dipsacus, on hedge–bank in spring.

Foliage of Dipsacus, on the hedgerow in spring.

Men usually seek sunny positions for their gardens, so that even those obliged to be contented with the north side of the hill would scarcely appreciate some of the above–named positions. What, the gloomy and weedy dyke as a garden! Yes, there are ditches, dry and wet, in every district, that may readily be made more beautiful than many a “modern flower–garden.” But what would grow in them? Many of the beautiful wood and shade–loving plants of our own and similar latitudes—things that love not the open sunny hill–sides or wide meadows, but take shelter in the stillness of deep woods or in dark valleys, are happy deep[37] between riven rocks, and gaily occupy the little dark caves beneath the great boulders on many a horror–stricken mountain gorge, and which garland with inimitable grace the vast flanks of rock that guard the dark courses of the rivers on their paths through the hills. And as these dark walls, ruined by ceaseless pulse of the torrent, are beautiful exceedingly, how much more may we make all the shady dykes and narrow lanes that occur everywhere! For while the nymph–gardener of the ravine may depend for her novelties on the stray grains of seeds brought in the moss by the robin when building her nest, or on the mercy of the hurrying wave, we may place side by side the snowy white wood lily (Trillium grandiflorum), whose home is in the shades of the American woods, with the twin flower of Scotland and northern Europe, and find both thrive on the same spot in happy companionship. And so in innumerable instances. And not only may we be assured of numbers of the most beautiful plants of other countries thriving in deep ditches and in like positions, but also that not a few of them, like the white wood lily, will thrive much better in them than in any position in garden borders. This plant, when in perfection, has a flower as fair as any white lily, while it is seldom a foot high; but, in consequence of being a shade–loving and wood plant, it usually perishes in the ordinary garden bed or border, while in a shady dyke or any like position it will be found to thrive as well as in its native woods; and if in deep, free, sandy, or vegetable soil, to grow so as not to be surpassed in loveliness by anything seen in our stoves or greenhouses.

Men typically look for sunny spots for their gardens, so even those who have to settle for the north side of a hill would hardly appreciate some of the previously mentioned locations. What, the gloomy and weedy ditch as a garden? Yes, there are ditches, both dry and wet, in every area that can easily be made more beautiful than many a "modern flower garden." But what would thrive in them? Many of the lovely wood and shade-loving plants from our own and similar climates—things that don’t like the open sunny hillsides or wide meadows but prefer the peace of deep woods or dark valleys—are happy growing in the cool shade between jagged rocks, and brightly occupy the small dark caves beneath the huge boulders in many a frightening mountain gorge. They also gracefully adorn the vast rocky slopes that line the dark paths of rivers as they flow through the hills. And since these dark walls, shaped by the constant flow of the torrent, are incredibly beautiful, how much more can we improve all the shady dykes and narrow paths that are everywhere! For while the nymph-gardener of the ravine may rely for her surprises on the random seeds brought by the robin with her nest-building moss, or on the whim of the rushing wave, we can plant side by side the snowy white wood lily (Trillium grandiflorum), which thrives in the shades of American woods, along with the twin flower from Scotland and northern Europe, and see both flourish happily together in the same spot. This holds true in countless situations. Not only can we be confident that many of the most beautiful plants from other countries will thrive in deep ditches and similar spots, but also that some, like the white wood lily, will grow much better there than in conventional garden borders. This plant, when fully developed, produces a flower as lovely as any white lily, while standing rarely more than a foot tall; yet, because it is a shade-loving woodland plant, it usually dies in a regular garden bed or border. However, in a shady ditch or similar location, it can thrive just as well as in its native woods; and if planted in deep, free, sandy, or fertile soil, it can grow to be as beautiful as anything found in our greenhouses or conservatories.

Our wild flowers take possession of the stiff, formal, and[38] shorn hedges that seam the land, often draping them with such inimitable grace that half the conservatories in the country, with their collections of small red pots and small mean plants are stiff and poor compared with a few yards’ length of their blossomy verdure. The Wild Roses, Purple Vetch, Honeysuckle, and the Virgin’s Bower, clamber above smaller, but not less pretty, wildlings, and throw a veil of graceful life over the mutilated shrubs, reminding us of the plant–life in the nest–like thickets of dwarf shrubs that one often meets on the high Alpine meadows. In these islets of bushes in a sea of grass one may gather flowers after they have been all browsed down on the turf. Next to the most interesting aspects of Alpine vegetation, there is perhaps nothing in the world of plant–life more lovely than the delicate tracery of low–climbing things wedded to the bushes in all northern and temperate regions of the earth. Perishing like the grass, they are happy and safe in the earth’s bosom in winter; in spring they come up as the buds swell, and soon after, finding the bushes once more enjoyable, rush over them as joyously as children from school over a meadow of cowslips. Over bush, over brake, on mountain or lowland copse, holding on with delicate but unyielding grasp, they engrave themselves on the mind as the central type of grace. In addition to climbing Pea–flowers, Convolvuluses, etc., of which the stems perish in winter, we have the great tribes of wild vines, noble in foliage and often in fruit, the numerous Honeysuckles, from coral red to pale yellow, all beautiful; and the Clematidæ, rich, varied, and lovely beyond description, from those of which each petal reminds one of the wing of some huge[39] tropical butterfly, to those with small flowers borne in showers like drops from a fountain jet, and often sweet as Hawthorn blossoms.ill39

Our wildflowers take over the rigid, formal, and[38] trimmed hedges that line the land, often draping them with a unique beauty that makes half the conservatories in the country, with their collections of small red pots and tiny unremarkable plants, seem stiff and lacking compared to a few yards of their blooming greenery. The Wild Roses, Purple Vetch, Honeysuckle, and Virgin’s Bower climb above smaller, but no less lovely, wildflowers, covering the damaged shrubs with a veil of graceful life, reminding us of the plant life found in the nest-like thickets of dwarf shrubs commonly seen on high Alpine meadows. In these patches of bushes amidst a sea of grass, you can gather flowers after they have been completely eaten down by grazing. Apart from the most fascinating aspects of Alpine vegetation, there's probably nothing in the world of plant life more beautiful than the delicate patterns of low-climbing plants intertwined with bushes found in all northern and temperate regions. Dying like the grass, they are content and safe in the earth’s embrace during winter; in spring, they emerge as the buds swell, and soon after, finding the bushes enjoyable again, they rush over them with the joy of children running out of school into a meadow of cowslips. Over bushes, through undergrowth, on mountain or lowland thicket, clinging with a delicate but firm grip, they imprint themselves in your memory as the epitome of grace. In addition to climbing Pea flowers, Convolvuluses, etc., which die back in winter, we have the great groups of wild vines, magnificent in foliage and often in fruit, the numerous Honeysuckles, ranging from coral red to pale yellow, all beautiful; and the Clematidæ, rich, diverse, and stunning beyond words, from those whose petals remind you of the wings of some enormous[39] tropical butterfly, to those with small flowers that fall like raindrops from a fountain, often sweet as Hawthorn blossoms.ill39

The large white Bindweed, type of nobler climbing plants, with annual stems. For copses, hedgerows, and shrubberies.

The large white Bindweed, a type of more refined climbing plant, with yearly stems. For woods, hedgerows, and shrubs.

This climbing vegetation may be trained and tortured into forms in gardens, but never will its beauty be seen until we entrust it to the garlanding of shrub, and copse, or hedgerow, fringes of dwarf plantation, or groups of shrubs and trees. All to be done is to put in a few tufts of any desired kind, and leave them alone, adapting the kind to the position. The large, flesh–coloured Bindweed, for example, would be best in rough places, out of the pale of the pleasure–ground or garden, so that its roots would not spread where they could do harm, while a delicate Clematis might be placed beneath the choicest specimen Conifer, and allowed to paint its rich green with fair flowers. In nature we frequently see a Honeysuckle clambering up through an old Hawthorn tree, and then struggling with it as to which should produce the greatest profusion[40] of blossoms—but in gardens not yet. Some may say that this cannot be done in gardens; but it can be done infinitely better in gardens than it has ever been done in nature; because, for gardens we can select plants from many countries. We can effect contrasts, in which nature is poor in any one place in consequence of the comparatively few plants that naturally inhabit one spot of ground. People seldom remember that “the art itself is nature;” and foolish old laws laid down by landscape–gardeners are yet fertile in perpetuating the notion that a garden is a “work of art, and therefore we must not attempt in it to imitate nature.”ill40

This climbing plant can be shaped and twisted into various forms in gardens, but its true beauty won’t be revealed until we let it blend naturally with shrubs, thickets, or hedgerows, alongside small plantings or clusters of shrubs and trees. All it takes is to add a few clumps of any type you want and then leave them be, choosing the right type for the area. For instance, the large, flesh-colored Bindweed would thrive best in wild areas, away from the manicured garden space, so its roots won’t spread where they could cause problems. Meanwhile, a delicate Clematis could be placed beneath a prized Conifer, letting it enhance the rich green with lovely flowers. In nature, we often see Honeysuckle climbing through an old Hawthorn tree, competing for the most blossoms, but we don’t see that happening in gardens yet. Some might argue that this isn’t possible in gardens, but it can actually be done far better in gardens than in nature because we can choose plants from all over the globe. We can create contrasts that nature often lacks in specific locations due to the limited variety of plants found in one spot. People often forget that “the art itself is nature,” and outdated rules set by landscape gardeners still perpetuate the idea that a garden is a “work of art, and therefore we shouldn’t try to replicate nature.”[40]

The Nootka Bramble; type of free–growing flowering shrub. For copses and woods.

The Nootka Bramble: a type of wild flowering shrub. Perfect for thickets and forests.

Sometimes, where there are large and bare slopes, an excellent effect may be obtained by planting the stouter climbers, such as the Vines, Mountain Clematis, and Honeysuckles, in groups or masses on the grass, away from shrubs or low trees; while, when the banks are precipitous or the rocks crop forth, we may allow a curtain of climbers to fall over them.

Sometimes, on large and bare slopes, you can create a great effect by planting sturdy climbers, like vines, mountain clematis, and honeysuckles, in groups or clusters on the grass, away from shrubs or low trees. When the banks are steep or the rocks are exposed, we can let a curtain of climbers cascade over them.

Endless charming combinations may be made in this way in many spots near most country houses. The following genera are among the climbing and clinging hardy plants most suitable for garlanding copses, hedges, and thickets:—Everlasting Peas (many kinds), the hardy exotic Honeysuckles, Clematis (wild species mainly), the common Jasmine,[41] the double Bramble, Vines (American and the common varieties), single Roses, the Virginian creepers (Ampelopsis), the large Bindweed (Calystegia dahurica), Aristolochia Sipho, and A. tomentosa, and several of the perennial Tropæolums, T. pentaphyllum, speciosum, and tuberosum. The hardy Smilax, too, are very handsome, and the Canadian Moonseed, only suitable for this kind of gardening.

Endless charming combinations can be created this way in many places near most country houses. The following types are among the climbing and clinging hardy plants best suited for decorating woodlands, hedges, and thickets:—Everlasting Peas (various kinds), hardy exotic Honeysuckles, Clematis (mainly wild species), common Jasmine,[41] double Bramble, Vines (American and common varieties), single Roses, Virginian creepers (Ampelopsis), large Bindweed (Calystegia dahurica), Aristolochia Sipho, A. tomentosa, and several perennial Tropæolums, including T. pentaphyllum, speciosum, and tuberosum. The hardy Smilax is also quite beautiful, as is the Canadian Moonseed, which is suitable only for this type of gardening.

Among the families of plants that are suitable for the various positions enumerated at the head of this chapter may be named—Acanthus, any variety, Viola, both the sweet varieties and some of the large scentless kinds, the Periwinkle, Speedwells, Globe Flowers, Trilliums, Plume Ferns (Struthiopteris), and many other kinds, the Lily of the Valley and its many varieties and allies, the Canadian Bloodwort, the Winter Greens (Pyrola), Solomon’s Seal, and allied exotic species, the May Apple, Orobus in variety, Narcissi, many, the Common Myrrh, the perennial Lupin, hardy common Lilies, the Snowflakes, all kinds of Everlasting Peas and allied plants, admirable for scrambling through low hedges and over bushes, Windflowers, the taller and stronger kinds in lanes and hedgerows, the various Christmas Roses which will repay for shelter, the European kinds of Gladiolus, such as segetum and Colvilli, the taller and more vigorous Cranes Bills (Geranium), the Snake’s Head (Fritillaria) in variety, Strawberries of any variety or species, the beautiful Plume–leaved Giant Fennel, Dog’s Tooth Violets in bare spots or spots bare in spring, the Winter Aconite, the Barren Worts, for peaty spots or leaf soil, the May Flower, for sandy poor soil under trees, the Dentaria, the coloured and showier forms of Primroses, Oxslips, Polyanthus, the hardy European Cyclamens[42] in carefully chosen spots, Crocuses in places under branches and trees not bearing leaves in Spring, the yellow and pink Coronilla (C. montana and C. varia), the larger forms of Bindweed, many of the taller and finer Harebells, Starworts (Aster), for hedgerows, and among the taller plants the Italian Cuckoo Pint (Arum), and also the Dragons, for warm sandy soils, the Monkshoods which people fear in gardens and which do admirably in many positions; the different species of Onion, also unwelcome in gardens, some of which are very beautiful, as, for example, the White Provence kind and the old yellow garden Allium (Moly). With the above almost exclusively exotic things and our own wild flowers and ferns beautiful colonies may be made.

Among the families of plants that are suitable for the various positions listed at the beginning of this chapter, you can include—Acanthus of any variety, Viola, both the sweet varieties and some of the larger scentless types, the Periwinkle, Speedwells, Globe Flowers, Trilliums, Plume Ferns (Struthiopteris), and many others like the Lily of the Valley and its numerous varieties and relatives, Canadian Bloodwort, Winter Greens (Pyrola), Solomon’s Seal, and related exotic species, the May Apple, various Orobus, many Narcissi, Common Myrrh, perennial Lupin, hardy common Lilies, Snowflakes, all types of Everlasting Peas and related plants, great for climbing through low hedges and over bushes, Windflowers, especially the taller and stronger kinds found in lanes and hedgerows, the various Christmas Roses that will thrive with some shelter, European Gladiolus types like segetum and Colvilli, the taller and more vigorous Cranes Bills (Geranium), various Snake’s Head (Fritillaria), Strawberries of any variety or species, the stunning Plume-leaved Giant Fennel, Dog’s Tooth Violets in bare areas or patches that are bare in spring, Winter Aconite, Barren Worts for peaty spots or leaf soil, May Flower for sandy, poor soil under trees, Dentaria, the colorful and showy forms of Primroses, Oxslips, Polyanthus, the hardy European Cyclamens[42] in well-chosen spots, Crocuses in places under branches and trees that aren't leafed out in spring, the yellow and pink Coronilla (C. montana and C. varia), the larger forms of Bindweed, many of the taller and more beautiful Harebells, Starworts (Aster) for hedgerows, and among the taller plants, the Italian Cuckoo Pint (Arum), as well as the Dragons for warm sandy soils, the Monkshoods, which people often fear in gardens but do wonderfully in many places; different species of Onion, also unwelcome in gardens, some of which are quite lovely, such as the White Provence kind and the old yellow garden Allium (Moly). With the above predominantly exotic plants and our native wildflowers and ferns, beautiful colonies can be created.

The Yellow Allium (A. Moly) naturalised.

The Yellow Allium (A. Moly) has become naturalized.


CHAPTER VII.

DRAPERY FOR TREES AND BUSHES.
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Drapery for trees and shrubs.
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The numerous hardy climbers which we possess are very rarely seen to advantage, owing to their being stiffly trained against walls. Indeed, the greater number of hardy climbers have gone out of cultivation mainly for this reason. One of the happiest of all ways of using them is that of training them in a free manner over trees; in this way many beautiful effects may be secured. Established trees have usually exhausted the ground near their base, which may, however, afford nutriment to a hardy climbing shrub. In some low trees the graceful companion may garland their heads; in tall ones the stem only may at first be adorned. But some vigorous climbers could in time ascend the tallest trees, and there can be nothing more beautiful than a veil of such a one as Clematis montana suspended from the branch of a tall tree. A whole host of lovely plants may be seen to great advantage in this way, apart from the well–known and popular climbing plants. There are, for example, many species of Clematis which[44] have never come into cultivation, but which are quite as beautiful as any climbers. The same may be said of the Honeysuckles, wild Vines, and various other families of which the names may be found in catalogues. Much of the northern tree and shrub world is garlanded with creepers, which may be grown in similar ways, as, for example, on banks and in hedgerows. The trees in our pleasure–grounds, however, have the first claim on our attention in planting garlands.[45] There would seldom be need to fear injury to established trees.

The many hardy climbers we have are rarely showcased properly because they’re often rigidly trained against walls. In fact, most hardy climbers have fallen out of favor largely for this reason. One of the best ways to use them is by allowing them to grow freely on trees; this can create many beautiful effects. Established trees usually deplete the soil near their base, but this area can still support a hardy climbing shrub. In some shorter trees, these climbers can elegantly drape over the tops; in taller ones, they may initially adorn just the trunk. However, some vigorous climbers can eventually reach the tallest trees, and nothing is more stunning than a curtain of something like Clematis montana hanging from a tall branch. A whole range of lovely plants can be displayed beautifully this way, in addition to the well-known and popular climbing plants. For instance, there are many species of Clematis that[44] have never been cultivated but are just as attractive as any other climbers. The same goes for Honeysuckles, wild Vines, and various other groups whose names can be found in catalogs. Much of the northern tree and shrub landscape is adorned with creepers that can be grown similarly, such as on banks and in hedgerows. However, the trees in our gardens should be our primary focus when planting garlands.[45] There’s rarely a need to worry about harming established trees.

Large White Clematis on Yew tree at Great Tew. (C. montana grandiflora.)

Large White Clematis on Yew tree at Great Tew. (C. montana grandiflora.)

Some time ago I saw a Weeping Willow, on the margin of a lake, that had its trunk clothed with Virginian Creeper, and the effect in autumn, when the sun shone through the drooping branches of the Willow—whose leaves were just becoming tinged with gold—upon the crimson of the creeper–covered trunk was very fine. The Hop is a very effective plant for draping a thin specimen Arbor–vitæ, or Yew tree, but the shoots should be thinned out in spring, and not more than three or four allowed to climb up to the tree. When the leader emerges from the top of the bush, and throws its long, graceful wreaths of Hops over the dark green foliage, the contrast is most effective. The Wistaria, if planted before its support has become old, will combine with excellent effect with any single specimen of not too dense a habit.ill45a

Some time ago, I saw a Weeping Willow by a lake, its trunk covered in Virginia Creeper. The autumn scene, with the sun shining through the drooping branches of the Willow—whose leaves were just starting to turn gold—against the crimson of the trunk was stunning. The Hop plant is great for draping over a slender Arborvitae or Yew tree, but you should thin out the shoots in spring, leaving no more than three or four to climb the tree. When the leader grows from the top of the bush and drapes its long, graceful Hop vines over the dark green leaves, the contrast is really striking. If you plant Wisteria before its support gets old, it will combine beautifully with any single specimen that isn’t too dense. ill45a

The way the climbing plants of the world are crucified in gardens—winter effect (a faithful sketch).

The way the climbing plants around the world are tied up in gardens—winter effect (a faithful sketch).

A correspondent, who has added largely to the charms of a place in Suffolk by means of the wild garden, writes as follows:—

A correspondent, who has greatly enhanced the appeal of a location in Suffolk with a wild garden, writes as follows:—

“Some time ago I discovered and had removed from the woods to the pleasure–grounds a robust round–headed[46] Holly tree, which had been taken entire possession of by a wild Honeysuckle, which, originating at the root of the tree, had scrambled up through the branches to the top, and there, extending itself in all directions, had formed a large head and hung in festoons all round—a highly ornamental object indeed. The Holly had endured the subjection for many years, and still seemed to put forth sufficient shoots and leaves annually to ensure a steady support to its climbing companion. The birds also had discovered that the dense and tangled thicket created by the Honeysuckle was a suitable home for their young, for inside of it was a regular settlement of nests of various kinds; and, since the tree has been moved it has been taken complete possession of again by the bird tribe.” The Honeysuckle in question is an example of what might be done with such handsome and free growing climbers and scrambling Roses. What could be more effective, for instance, than a lofty tree–like mass of the purple and white Clematis mixed, or either of these alone, or, better[47] still, a gigantic head of Roses? I throw out these hints for those who choose to act upon them. Draped trees, such as I have described, may soon be had. I do not know that a better tree than the Holly could be selected for a support. Where the trees are not in the place in which they are wanted, they should be moved about the end of August to the desired situation, and if some good rich soil—loam and decayed manure—is furnished to the roots at the same time, it will be in proper condition for climbers in spring. The latter should be planted pretty closely to the stem of the tree, and a start should be made with good vigorous plants, whether of Honeysuckle, Roses, or Clematis. The Roses and other things will want a little leading off at first till they get hold of their supporters, but afterwards no pruning or interference should be attempted.ill47

“Some time ago, I found a sturdy, round-headed[46] Holly tree in the woods and had it moved to the pleasure grounds. It was completely taken over by a wild Honeysuckle that had climbed from the roots all the way to the top and spread out in all directions, creating a large, ornamental head that hung in beautiful festoons. The Holly had managed to endure this for many years and still produced enough shoots and leaves each year to support its climbing partner. Birds also found that the dense tangle created by the Honeysuckle made a great spot for raising their young; inside it, there was a variety of nests. Since the tree was moved, it has been fully reclaimed by the bird community.” The Honeysuckle is an example of what can be done with attractive, fast-growing climbers and scrambling Roses. What could be more effective than a tall mass of mixed purple and white Clematis or just one of those alone, or, even better[47], a huge head of Roses? I offer these suggestions for those who want to take action. Draped trees like the one I described can be arranged easily. I don't think there’s a better tree than the Holly for this purpose. If the trees aren't where you want them, they should be moved around the end of August to the desired spot, and if you add some rich soil—loam and decomposed manure—to the roots at the same time, it will be ready for climbers in the spring. They should be planted fairly close to the tree's trunk, and you should start with healthy plants, whether they are Honeysuckle, Roses, or Clematis. The Roses and others will need a little guidance at first until they attach themselves to their supports, but after that, no pruning or interference should be done.ill47

Climbing shrub (Celastrus), isolated on the grass; way of growing woody Climbers away from walls or other supports.

Climbing shrub (Celastrus), set apart on the grass; method of growing woody climbers away from walls or other supports.

Mr. Hovey, in a letter from Boston, Mass., wrote as follows, on certain interesting aspects of tree drapery:— Some ten or fifteen years ago we had occasion to plant three or four rows of popular climbers in nursery rows, about 100 feet long; these consisted of the Virginian creeper, the Moonseed (Menispermum), Periploca græca, and Celastrus scandens; subsequently, it happened accidentally that four rows of rather large Tartarian (so–called) Arbor–vitæs were planted on one side, and about the same number of rows of Smoke trees, Philadelphus, and Cornus florida, on the other. For three or four years many of these climbers were taken up annually until rather too old to remove, and year by year the Arbor–vitæs and shrubs were thinned out until what were too large to safely transplant remained. But the land was not wanted then, and the few scattered trees and climbers grew on while cultivation was partially neglected, a large specimen being occasionally taken out until the climbers had fairly taken possession of the trees, and are now too beautiful to disturb. It forms the most unique specimen of tree drapery I have ever seen. Some of the Arbor–vitæs are entirely overrun with the Moonseed (Menispermum), whose large, slightly–scalloped leaves overlap[48] one another from the ground to the top like slates on a roof. Over others, the gloomy leaves of the Periploca scramble, and also the Celastrus, and on still others the deep green leaves of the Ampelopsis completely festoon the tree; of some trees all four and other climbers have taken possession; and from among the tops of the Sumach the feathery tendrils of the Ampelopsis, and, just now, its deep blue berries hold full sway. And these are not all. The Apios tuberosa is indigenous, and springs up everywhere as soon as our land is neglected. This has also overrun several trees, and coils up and wreaths each outstretching branch with its little bunches of fragrant brownish coloured flowers. It is the Arbor–vitæs which give the peculiar beauty of this description of tree drapery. On the deciduous trees the new growth lengthens rapidly, and the branches soon get far apart; but with Arbor–vitæs, which always present a round compact head, the effect is entirely different; they are covered so densely that it is impossible, in some instances, to say what the tree is that supports the climbers. One Hemlock Spruce (Abies canadensis) has every branch loaded with the Apios and profuse with blossoms; but this one sees happen with other trees. The Smoke tree looks interesting just now, while its flowers are fresh, but soon they will fade, and the dry tops will be a disadvantage; but the Arbor–vitæ will remain clothed with the foliage, flowers, and berries too, of the Celastrus until the autumn frosts have shorn them of their beauty, and no falling leaves are scattered around. The Arbor–vitæ is the tree I would recommend when it is desirable to produce such effects as I have described. When such strong–growing climbers as Begonias and Wistarias take possession of a shrub they generally injure it; but the very slender stems of Menispermum and Apios die entirely to the ground after the first sharp frost, and the slender stems of the others do not appear to arrest the growth of the Arbor–vitæs, which are restored when the climbers are down, and, after full eight months’ rest, are again ready to aid in sustaining their more dependent companions. The Honeysuckle, the Clematis, and similar plants might, no doubt, be added to the list, and give more variety, as well as fragrance and beauty, but I have only detailed the effects of what has been done, leaving what might be effected for some future trial.ill48

Mr. Hovey, in a letter from Boston, MA, wrote about some interesting aspects of tree drapery:— About ten to fifteen years ago, we needed to plant three or four rows of popular climbing plants in nursery rows, around 100 feet long. These included the Virginian creeper, Moonseed (Menispermum), Periploca græca, and Celastrus scandens. Then, quite by chance, we planted four rows of large Tartarian Arbor-vitaes on one side, and about the same amount of Smoke trees, Philadelphus, and Cornus florida on the other. For three or four years, many of these climbers were taken up annually until they were too old to move, and year after year, the Arbor-vitaes and shrubs were thinned out until only those too large to transplant remained. However, the land wasn’t needed at that time, so the few scattered trees and climbers continued to grow while the area was somewhat neglected. Occasionally, a large specimen was removed until the climbers had firmly established themselves on the trees, and they are now too beautiful to disturb. It forms the most unique example of tree drapery I have ever seen. Some of the Arbor-vitaes are completely covered with Moonseed (Menispermum), whose large, slightly scalloped leaves overlap each other from the ground to the top like slates on a roof. Over others, the dark leaves of Periploca scramble, along with Celastrus, and on still others, the deep green leaves of Ampelopsis completely drape the tree. On some trees, all four and other climbers have taken over; amongst the Sumach’s tops, the feathery tendrils of Ampelopsis and, right now, its deep blue berries dominate. And these aren’t all. The Apios tuberosa is native and appears everywhere as soon as our land is neglected. This has also overrun several trees, winding around and draping each outstretched branch with its small clusters of fragrant brownish flowers. It is the Arbor-vitae that gives the unique beauty to this type of tree drapery. On deciduous trees, the new growth advances quickly, and the branches soon spread apart; but with Arbor-vitaes, which always have a round, compact head, the effect is completely different; they are so densely covered that in some cases, it’s impossible to identify the tree that supports the climbers. One Hemlock Spruce (Abies canadensis) has every branch laden with Apios and is bursting with blossoms, but this occurs with other trees as well. The Smoke tree looks interesting now while its flowers are fresh, but soon they will fade, and the dry tops will be less appealing; however, the Arbor-vitae will remain cloaked in the foliage, flowers, and berries of Celastrus until the autumn frosts strip them of their beauty, and no falling leaves are scattered around. The Arbor-vitae is the tree I would recommend for achieving effects like those I have described. When strong-growing climbers like Begonias and Wistarias take over a shrub, they usually damage it; but the very slender stems of Menispermum and Apios die all the way to the ground after the first sharp frost, and the thin stems of the other climbers do not seem to hinder the growth of Arbor-vitaes, which thrive again when the climbers are down, and after eight months of rest, they are once again ready to support their more dependent companions. Honeysuckle, Clematis, and similar plants could certainly be added to the list, providing more variety, as well as fragrance and beauty, but I have only detailed the effects of what has been done, leaving the potential for future trials.ill48

A Liane in the North. Aristolochia and Deciduous Cypress.

A Liane in the North. Aristolochia and Deciduous Cypress.

But the noblest kind of climbers forming drapery for trees are not so often seen as some of the general favourites mentioned above. A neglected group are the wild Vines, plants[49] of the highest beauty, and which, if allowed to spring through the tall trees, which they would quickly do, would soon charm by their bold grace. Some of them are fine in colour of foliage in autumn. With these might be associated, though not so fine in form, certain free–growing species of Ampelopsis, grown in some nurseries. The Wistaria is also well worth growing on trees, in districts where it flowers freely[50] away from walls. In visiting the garden of MM. Van Eden, at Haarlem, I was surprised to see a Liane, in the shape of the well–known Aristolochia or Dutchman’s Pipe, which had clambered high into a fine old deciduous Cypress. Being much interested in this long–established companionship, I was able to procure, through the kindness of Messrs. Van Eden, photographs of the tree and its Liane, from which this illustration was engraved. When I saw it early in spring the leaves had not appeared on either the tree or its companion, and the effect of the old rope–like stems was very picturesque. The Aristolochia ascends to a height of 35 ft. 6 in. on the tree.

But the most impressive climbers that dress the trees aren’t seen as often as some of the popular favorites mentioned earlier. A lesser-known group is the wild vines, which are stunning plants that, if they were allowed to climb through the tall trees—something they would do quickly—would soon enchant us with their bold elegance. Some of them have beautiful foliage colors in autumn. These can be paired with certain free-growing species of Ampelopsis, which are available in some nurseries, though they’re not as striking in form. Wisteria is also great for growing on trees, especially in areas where it blooms well away from walls. When I visited the garden of MM. Van Eden in Haarlem, I was surprised to see a vine in the shape of the familiar Aristolochia, or Dutchman’s Pipe, climbing high into a beautiful old deciduous cypress. Intrigued by this long-established relationship, I was able to get photographs of the tree and its vine from the kind folks at Van Eden, which were used to create this illustration. When I saw it early in spring, neither the tree nor its climbing partner had any leaves yet, and the old rope-like stems looked very picturesque. The Aristolochia climbs to a height of 35 ft. 6 in. on the tree.

The tree was a superb specimen, and was not in the least injured by the growth of the climber. What a beautiful effect a graceful flowering climber would afford in a similar case! Imagine one of the white–flowered Clematis (which may be seen as many as over forty feet in height under suitable conditions) garlanding such a tree, or any tree, with wreaths of fragrant blossoms. Strange and lovely aspects of vegetation may be created in our pleasure–grounds by the judicious use of these climbers, varying according to the trees and their position, and also as to their being evergreen or summer–leafing. Even where one might fear to injure a valuable tree by a vigorous climber, trees may easily be found of little value, and much may be done even with the old or dead trees.

The tree was an excellent example, and it wasn’t harmed at all by the growth of the vine. Just think how beautiful a graceful flowering vine would look in a similar situation! Picture one of the white-flowered Clematis (which can grow over forty feet tall under the right conditions) draping itself around such a tree, or any tree, with wreaths of fragrant blooms. Unique and beautiful configurations of plants can be created in our gardens by thoughtfully using these vines, depending on the trees, their location, and whether they are evergreen or seasonal. Even if you’re worried about damaging a valuable tree with a vigorous vine, you can easily find trees of little worth, and a lot can be done even with old or dead trees.


A beautiful accident.—A colony of Myrrhis odorata, established in shrubbery, with white Harebells here and there. (See p. 60.)

A beautiful accident.—A colony of Myrrhis odorata, set up in the bushes, with white Harebells sprinkled throughout. (See p. 60.)

CHAPTER VIII.

THE COMMON SHRUBBERY, WOODS AND WOODLAND DRIVES.

THE COMMON SHRUBBERY, WOODS AND WOODLAND DRIVES.

It must not be thought that the wild garden can only be formed in places where there is some extent of rough pleasure–ground. Excellent results may be obtained from the system in comparatively small gardens, on the fringes of shrubberies and marginal plantations, open spaces between shrubs, the surface of beds of Rhododendrons, where we may have plant–beauty instead of garden–graveyards. I call garden–graveyards the dug shrubbery borders which one sees in nearly all gardens, public or private. Every shrubbery and plantation surface that is so needlessly and relentlessly dug over by the gardener every winter, may be embellished in the way I propose, as well as wild places. The custom of digging shrubbery borders prevails now in every garden, and there is[52] in the whole course of gardening no worse or more profitless custom. When winter is once come, almost every gardener, although animated with the best intentions, simply prepares to make war upon the roots of everything in his shrubbery border. The generally–accepted practice is to trim, and often to mutilate the shrubs, and to dig all over the surface that must be full of feeding roots. Delicate half–rooted shrubs are disturbed; herbaceous plants are destroyed; bulbs are displaced and injured; the roots as well as the tops of shrubs are mutilated; and a sparse depopulated aspect is given to the margins, while the only “improvement” that is effected by the process is the annual darkening of the surface by the upturned earth.

It shouldn't be assumed that a wild garden can only be created in large areas of rough land. You can achieve great results with this approach in relatively small gardens, along the edges of shrubberies and small plantings, in open spaces between shrubs, or on the surface of Rhododendron beds, allowing for plant beauty instead of what I refer to as "garden graveyards." I describe garden graveyards as the dug-up shrubbery borders that are found in nearly all gardens, both public and private. Every shrubbery and planting area that gets unnecessarily and relentlessly turned over by gardeners every winter can be enhanced in the way I suggest, just like wild areas. The practice of digging shrubbery borders is common in every garden, and there is[52] no worse or more pointless habit in gardening. Once winter arrives, almost every gardener, despite having the best intentions, sets out to attack the roots of everything in their shrubbery border. The prevailing practice is to trim, and often to harm, the shrubs, while digging over the surface that is likely full of feeding roots. Vulnerable half-rooted shrubs are disturbed; herbaceous plants are ruined; bulbs are uprooted and damaged; and both the roots and tops of shrubs are harmed, resulting in a sparse and lifeless look to the edges, with the only "improvement" being the annual darkening of the surface due to the turned-up soil.

Illustrations of these bad practices occur by miles in our London parks in winter. Walk through any of them at that season, and observe the borders around masses of shrubs, choice and otherwise. Instead of finding the earth covered, or nearly covered, with vegetation close to the margin, and each individual plant developed into something like a fair specimen of its kind, we find a spread of recently–dug ground, and the plants upon it with an air of having recently suffered from a whirlwind, or some calamity that necessitated the removal of mutilated branches. Rough–pruners precede the diggers, and bravely trim in the shrubs for them, so that nothing may be in the way; and then come the diggers, plunging their spades deeply about plants, shrubs, or trees. The first shower that occurs after this digging exposes a whole network of torn–up roots. There is no relief to the spectacle; the same thing occurs everywhere—in botanic gardens as well as in our large West–end parks; and year after year is the process repeated.

Illustrations of these bad practices are everywhere in our London parks during winter. Walk through any of them at that time, and notice the borders around lots of shrubs, whether special ones or not. Instead of seeing the ground covered, or almost covered, with vegetation close to the edge, and each individual plant looking like a decent example of its kind, we see a stretch of recently dug-up soil, and the plants on it looking like they’ve just survived a whirlwind or some disaster that required the removal of damaged branches. Rough pruners go in before the diggers, trimming the shrubs so nothing is in the way; then the diggers come in, plunging their spades deep around the plants, shrubs, or trees. The first rain that comes after this digging reveals a whole network of uprooted roots. The scene offers no relief; the same thing happens everywhere—in botanic gardens as well as in our large West End parks; and year after year, this process is repeated.

While such is the case, it will be impossible to have an agreeable or interesting margin to a shrubbery or plantation. What secrets one might have in the central hidden portions of these now dug and bare shrubberies—in the half–shady spots where little colonies of rare exotic wildlings might have their first introduction to our wild garden! Of course all the labour required to produce this miserable result of dug borders is worse than thrown away, as the shrubberies would do better if let alone, and by utilising the power thus wasted, we might highly beautify the positions that are now so ugly.

While that's the case, it will be impossible to have a pleasant or interesting edge to a garden or plantation. Just think of the secrets hidden in the now-exposed areas of these dug-up gardens—in the semi-shady spots where small clusters of rare exotic plants could first be introduced to our wild garden! Clearly, all the effort spent to create this disappointing outcome of dug borders is worse than wasted, as the gardens would thrive better if left alone. By channeling that wasted energy, we could greatly enhance the areas that are currently so unattractive.

Large White Achilleas spread into wide masses under shade of trees in shrubbery.

Large White Achilleas spread out in broad clusters beneath the shade of trees in the bushes.

If we resolve that no annual manuring or digging is to be permitted, nobody will grudge a thorough preparation at first. When a plantation of shrubs is quite young it is well to keep the ground open by lightly stirring it for a year or two. Then the planting should be so arranged as to defeat the digger. To graduate the vegetation from the taller subjects behind to the very margin of the grass is of much importance,[54] and this could be done best by the greater use of dwarf evergreens. Happily, there is quite enough of these to be had suitable for every soil. Light, moist, peaty, or sandy soils, where such things as the sweet–scented Daphne Cneorum would spread forth its dwarf cushions, would be somewhat more desirable than, say, a stiff clay; but for every position suitable plants might be found. Look, for example, at what we could do with the dwarf–green Iberises, Helianthemums, Aubrietias, Arabises, Alyssums, dwarf shrubs, and little conifers like the creeping Cedar (Juniperus squamata), and the Tamarix–leaved Juniper, in spreading groups and colonies. All these are green, and would spread out into dense wide cushions, covering the margin, rising but little above the grass, and helping to cut off the formal line which usually divides margin and border. Behind them we might use other shrubs, deciduous or evergreen, in endless variety; and of course the margin should be varied also as regards height.

If we decide that no yearly fertilizing or digging will be allowed, no one will mind putting in the effort for a good initial setup. When a shrub garden is still young, it’s important to keep the ground loose by lightly stirring it for a year or two. Then, the planting should be organized in a way that outsmart the diggers. It's really important to transition the plants from taller ones in the back to the very edge of the grass, and this can be best achieved by using more dwarf evergreens. Luckily, there are plenty available that are suitable for any type of soil. Light, moist, peaty, or sandy soils, where things like the sweet-scented Daphne Cneorum can spread its small cushions, would be better than, for instance, hard clay; but for every spot, there are suitable plants. Look at what we could do with dwarf green Iberises, Helianthemums, Aubrietias, Arabises, Alyssums, dwarf shrubs, and small conifers like the creeping Cedar (Juniperus squamata) and the Tamarix-leaved Juniper in spreading groups and clusters. All of these are green and would form dense, wide cushions that spread across the edge, only rising slightly above the grass, helping to soften the sharp line that usually separates the edge from the border. Behind them, we could use other shrubs, both deciduous and evergreen, in countless varieties; and of course, the edge should also vary in height.

In one spot we might have a wide–spreading tuft of the prostrate Savin pushing its graceful evergreen branchlets out over the grass; in another the dwarf little Cotoneasters might be allowed to form the front rank, relieved in their turn by pegged–down Roses; and so on without end. Herbaceous plants, that die down in winter and leave the ground bare afterwards, should not be assigned any important position near the front. Evergreen Alpine plants and shrubs, as before remarked, are perfectly suitable here; but the true herbaceous type, and the larger bulbs, like Lilies, should be in groups between spreading shrubs. By so placing them, we should not only secure a far more satisfactory general effect, but highly improve the aspect of the herbaceous plants[55] themselves. To carry out such planting properly, a little more time at first and a great deal more taste than are now employed would be required; but what a difference in the result! All that the well–covered borders would require would be an occasional weeding or thinning, and, in the case of the more select spots, a little top–dressing with fine soil. Here and there, between and amongst the plants, such things as Forget–me–nots and Violets, Snowdrops and Primroses, might be scattered about, so as to give the borders interest even at the dullest seasons; and thus we should be delivered from digging and dreariness, and see our once ugly borders alive with flowers. The chief rule should be—never show the naked earth: clothe it, and then allow the taller plants to rise in their own way through the turf or spray. Here is a little sketch of what is meant. A colony of the white Arabis carpets the ground in which strong hardy Lilies are growing; and the Lilies are pushing up their bold unfolding shoots. The latter are none the worse in winter for this light carpet of foliage over the border; and then for a long time in spring it is bedecked with white flowers. Indeed, in fairly good seasons it blooms in winter too. It would take a big[56] book to tell all the charms and merits belonging to the use of a variety of small plants to carpet the ground beneath and between those of larger growth. It need hardly be said that this argument against digging applies to two or three beds of shrubs, and places where the “shrubbery” is little larger than the dining–room, as much as to the large country seat, public park, or botanic garden.

In one spot, we could have a wide-spreading tuft of prostrate Savin gracefully extending its evergreen branches over the grass; in another, the small Cotoneasters could take the front rank, complemented by pegged-down Roses; and so on without end. Herbaceous plants, which die off in winter and leave the ground bare afterwards, shouldn't be placed in any important position near the front. Evergreen Alpine plants and shrubs, as mentioned before, are perfect here; however, true herbaceous plants and larger bulbs, like Lilies, should be grouped between spreading shrubs. By arranging them this way, we would not only create a much more pleasing overall effect but also greatly enhance the appearance of the herbaceous plants themselves. To implement such planting properly, a bit more initial time and a lot more taste than what's typically used would be necessary; but the difference in the outcome would be remarkable! All the well-covered borders would need is some occasional weeding or thinning, and, for the more select spots, a little top-dressing with fine soil. Here and there, among the plants, we could scatter Forget-me-nots, Violets, Snowdrops, and Primroses to add interest even during the duller seasons; this way, we could avoid digging and drudgery and see our once ugly borders come alive with flowers. The main rule should be—never let the bare earth show: cover it, and then let the taller plants grow naturally through the grass or foliage. Here’s a little illustration of what’s meant. A colony of white Arabis carpets the ground where strong, hardy Lilies are thriving, their bold shoots pushing up through. The Lilies are better off in winter for having this light layer of foliage over the border, and for a long time in spring, it’s adorned with white flowers. In fact, during decent growing seasons, it also blooms in winter. It would take a huge book to detail all the charms and benefits of using various small plants to cover the ground beneath and between the larger ones. It's worth noting that this advice against digging applies just as much to a couple of shrub beds or areas where the "shrubbery" is hardly bigger than a dining room, as it does to a large country estate, public park, or botanical garden.

Lilies coming up through carpet of White Arabis.

Lilies growing through a carpet of white Arabis.

There are great cultural advantages too, in leaving the whole of the leaves to nourish the ground and protect it from frost or heat. I append a note from a correspondent inquiring about what he supposes practical difficulties, and an answer to them:—

There are also significant cultural benefits in allowing all the leaves to enrich the soil and shield it from cold or heat. I’m including a note from someone who reached out with what he thinks are practical challenges, along with a response to those challenges:—

You draw a pretty picture of what a shrubbery border should be and how it should be kept in winter. There should be no digging, and the fallen leaves should be left. I fully agree, except as to the leaves. Theoretically, it seems quite right to allow the leaves to lie and decay amidst the surrounding plants, but in practice it does not answer. There are, for instance, in most gardens such things as slugs and snails. These delight in a leafy covering, and, protected from frost by the shelter, will prey upon the perennial green leafage and the starting crowns of the herbaceous plants, and do an immense amount of mischief. Then there are usually in gardens in winter, especially in hard weather, blackbirds and thrushes, which in their efforts to obtain food set all notions of tidiness at defiance. A troop of fowls would hardly turn a flower border more topsy–turvy than would a few of these birds. The first storm that came would whirl the disturbed leaves all over the place, much to the disgust of the cultivator, and the hardy plants would find that the theory of a natural dressing of leaf manure had broken down. I detest the forking of borders so common in winter. A moderate stirring of the surface first with a two or three–tined rake is good, then a dressing of soot or guano, or both, and over all a thin surfacing of old pot soil, or the rough screened produce of the rubbish heap, or, in fact, any kind of refuse soil that may offer. I think that most cultivators will agree that such a plan would answer better than the natural, but very inoperative leaf–dressing.—A.

You paint a nice picture of what a shrub border should look like and how it should be maintained in winter. There shouldn't be any digging, and the fallen leaves should stay put. I completely agree, except when it comes to the leaves. In theory, it sounds good to let the leaves lie and decay among the plants, but in practice, it doesn't work out. Most gardens have slugs and snails, for example. They love a leafy cover, and with the shelter from frost, they'll feed on the green leaves and the new growth of the herbaceous plants, causing a lot of damage. Additionally, during winter, especially in harsh weather, blackbirds and thrushes make a mess while searching for food, completely disregarding tidiness. A handful of these birds can disturb a flower bed more than a flock of chickens would. The first storm that hits would scatter the disturbed leaves everywhere, much to the annoyance of the gardener, and the hardy plants would find that the idea of natural leaf compost has failed. I really dislike the practice of turning over borders so often in winter. A gentle stirring of the surface with a two or three-pronged rake is effective, followed by a layer of soot or guano, or both, topped with a thin layer of old potting soil, rough compost from the waste pile, or any kind of leftover soil that might be available. I think most gardeners would agree that this method works better than relying on the ineffective natural leaf compost.

Colony of Narcissus in properly spaced shrubbery.

Colony of Narcissus in well-arranged bushes.

How do the swarming herbs of the woods and copses of the world exist in spite of the slugs? A good protection for them is hard gravel walks and paths, where they lay their eggs without danger. Against the door one may do what one likes, but not one leaf would I ever allow removed from a clump of shrubs or trees on my lawn or in my pleasure ground. I would prefer the leaves all over the place to a dug border, but I would, if need be, meet that difficulty by scattering a light dressing of soil over them. In what I should call a properly managed shrubbery or clump, with the bushes well spaced, and their branches resting on the ground, with low shrubs between, and evergreen and other herbs, there are natural impediments to the leaves rushing about in the way you suppose. This is a subject of the greatest interest and the utmost practical importance. Our annual digging[58] mutilation, scraping away of leaves, and exposing on bare sloppy borders plants that in Nature shelter each other, and are shielded from bitter frost and burning heat by layers of fallen leaves, gradually sinking into excellent light surface soil for the young roots, are ignorant and brutal practices that must be given up by all who really look into the needs of our hardy garden flora.

How do the abundant herbs in the woods and groves of the world manage to thrive despite the slugs? A good way to protect them is by having hard gravel walks and paths where they can lay their eggs safely. People can do whatever they want by the door, but I would never allow a single leaf to be removed from a cluster of shrubs or trees in my yard or garden. I’d prefer leaves scattered everywhere to having a dug-out border, but if necessary, I would solve that issue by lightly covering them with soil. In what I would call a well-maintained shrubbery or cluster, with bushes spaced properly and their branches touching the ground, with low shrubs in between, along with evergreen and other herbs, there are natural barriers that prevent leaves from blowing around as you might think. This is a topic of great interest and significant practical importance. Our annual digging and the harsh scraping away of leaves, exposing bare, muddy borders where plants that normally shelter each other are left vulnerable to bitter frost and scorching heat—protected instead by layers of fallen leaves that break down into rich surface soil for young roots—are thoughtless and damaging practices that need to be abandoned by anyone who genuinely understands the needs of our resilient garden plants.

With reference to this point, I print this letter from an observer of what goes on in the woods of New England. Our own woods are full of lessons, and so it is in all countries. Mr. Falconer’s letter is very suggestive of the revolution in method which must be carried out in the gardens of the future:—

With regard to this point, I’m sharing this letter from someone who observes what happens in the woods of New England. Our own woods are full of lessons, and so are those in every country. Mr. Falconer’s letter really highlights the change in approach that needs to be made in the gardens of the future:—

I go into the woods in the spring time, and find them carpeted with Dog’s–tooth Violets, Wood Anemones, blue and purple Hepaticas, Spring beauty, Trilliums, Blood–root, Star–flowers, False Solomon’s Seal, Gold Thread, trailing Arbutus, wild Ginger, and a host of other pretty little flowers, all bright and gay, arising from their bed of decaying herbage and tree leaves, and many of them are in perfection, too, before a tree has spread a leaf; and thus they glow and revel in their cosy bed, fed and sheltered by their tree friends. When their petals drop and their leaves are mature, the trees expand their leafy canopy and save the little nurslings from the torture of a scorching sun. And early as the earliest, too, the outskirts of the woods and meadows with hosts of Violets are painted blue and white, and speckled everywhere with Bluets, or little Innocents, as the children call them. Woodsias, tiny Aspleniums, and other Ferns are unfolding their fronds along the chinks among the stones; the common Polypody is reaching over blocks and boulders; and even the exposed rocks, with their rough and Lichen–bearded faces, are aglow in vernal pride. Every nook and cranny among them, and little mat of earth upon them are checkered with the flowery print of the Canada Columbine, the Virginia Saxifrage, and the glaucous Corydalis. But to the carpet. What can be prettier or more appropriate than the Partridge–berry (Mitchella repens), the Twin–flower (Linnæa borealis—does well with us), Creeping Winter Green (Gaultheria procumbens), Bearberry (Arctostaphylos Uva–Ursi), Cowberry (Vaccinium Vitis–idæa), Dwarf Cornel (Cornus canadensis), Fringed Polygala (P. paucifolia), the Common Pipsissewa (Chimaphila umbellata) with its shining deep green leaves, the Spotted Pipsissewa (C. maculata), the sombre–hued Pyrola and Galax, and that bright and easily–grown Club Moss (Lycopodium lucidulum)? Add to these such plants as Winter Aconite, Apennine Anemone, Creeping Forget–me–not, and the like, together with a few of the most suitable kinds of the host of bulbous ornamental plants which we now possess, and our shrubbery carpets may be replete with garden jewels. It is now generally conceded that shrubs thrive better in beds whose surface is undisturbed than where it is annually loosened by digging or pointing. This, coupled with a yearly top–dressing of decayed leaf–soil or light rich vegetable heap compost, is equally beneficial for the shrubs and their carpet.

I walk into the woods in spring and find them covered with Dog’s-tooth Violets, Wood Anemones, blue and purple Hepaticas, Spring Beauty, Trilliums, Bloodroot, Star-flowers, False Solomon’s Seal, Gold Thread, trailing Arbutus, wild Ginger, and a bunch of other lovely little flowers, all bright and cheerful, emerging from their bed of decaying leaves and plants. Many of them are in full bloom even before the trees have grown their leaves, shining and thriving in their cozy spot, nourished and sheltered by their tree companions. Once their petals fall and their leaves mature, the trees spread their leafy canopy to protect the little plants from the heat of the sun. Even the edges of the woods and meadows are filled with blue and white Violets, dotted all over with Bluets, or little Innocents, as the kids call them. Woodsias, tiny Aspleniums, and other ferns are unfolding their fronds in the crevices between the stones; common Polypody is spreading over rocks and boulders; and even the exposed rocks, with their rough and lichen-covered surfaces, shine with the pride of spring. Every nook and cranny, along with little patches of earth, are patterned with the vibrant prints of Canada Columbine, Virginia Saxifrage, and glaucous Corydalis. And then there's the ground cover. What could be prettier or more fitting than Partridge-berry (Mitchella repens), Twin-flower (Linnæa borealis—thrives here), Creeping Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens), Bearberry (Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi), Cowberry (Vaccinium Vitis-idaea), Dwarf Cornel (Cornus canadensis), Fringed Polygala (P. paucifolia), Common Pipsissewa (Chimaphila umbellata) with its shiny dark green leaves, Spotted Pipsissewa (C. maculata), the dark-hued Pyrola and Galax, and that bright, easy-to-grow Club Moss (Lycopodium lucidulum)? Add to these plants like Winter Aconite, Apennine Anemone, Creeping Forget-me-not, and a few of the most suitable types of the decorative bulb plants we now have, and our shrub beds can be filled with garden gems. It’s now widely recognized that shrubs grow better in undisturbed soil than in areas that are dug up or turned every year. This, combined with a yearly top-dressing of decayed leaf mulch or light, rich vegetable compost, is equally advantageous for the shrubs and their ground cover.

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The American White Wood–Lily (Trillium grandiflorum) in Wild Garden, in wood bottom in leaf–mould.

The American White Wood-Lily (Trillium grandiflorum) in the Wild Garden, in the wooded area with leaf mold.

“One day last spring, when strolling through the Medford wood, I came upon an open meadow with a high bank—cleared timber land—on one side. Adown this bank in a rough and rocky course, came a little stream of water, bordered on both sides with streaks and patches of Blood–root in its gayest state. The large and showy blossoms, clasped erect in their own leaf–vases and sparkling in the sun, while the sward and other vegetation around were yet dormant, had a cheerful influence indeed. True, near by in the hollow, the malodorous Skunk Cabbage was rank in leaf and flower, and the Indian Poke was rushing out its plaited, broadly oval leaves, and away in the streamlet a few Marsh Marigolds glittered on the water. But the Blood–root is neither an aquatic nor a bog plant, but most at home in the leaf–mould beds and linings of rich woodlands.”

“One day last spring, while walking through the Medford woods, I stumbled upon an open meadow with a high bank—cleared timberland—on one side. Down this bank, in a rough and rocky path, flowed a little stream of water, bordered on both sides with bright patches of Bloodroot in full bloom. The large, showy blossoms stood upright in their own leaf-vases and sparkled in the sun, while the grass and other plants around were still dormant, creating a truly cheerful scene. True, nearby in the hollow, the foul-smelling Skunk Cabbage was thriving with its leaves and flowers, and the Indian Poke was quickly sending out its broad, oval leaves. Meanwhile, a few Marsh Marigolds sparkled on the water in the streamlet. However, the Bloodroot isn't an aquatic or bog plant; it thrives best in the rich leaf mold of woodlands.”

“Hereabout, a little wild flower (Erythronium americanum) more commonly known as Dog’s–tooth Violet, is a charming plant, with variegated handsome leaves, and comely flowers in earliest spring. In low copses in rich deposits of vegetable[60] mould it grows around here in the utmost profusion. In one place by the side of a wood is a sort of ditch, which is filled with water in winter but dry in summer, and wherein is collected a mass of leaf–soil. Here the Erythronium runs riot, and forms the densest kind of matted sod, all bespeckled with yellow blossoms before a bush or tree has spread a leaf. Then blackberry bushes get a growing and sprawling everywhere, the trees expand their leafy shade, and Grass and weeds grow up and cover the surface of the earth. But all too late for evil, the Adder’s–tongue’s mission for a year is ended; it has blossomed, matured, and retired. The next densest mass I know of is in a low piece of cleared timber land, where, besides the profusion in the hollow, the carpet extends, thinner as it ascends, for many yards up the slope of the hill. As garden plants they are at home anywhere, underneath bushes, or in any out of–the–way corner, merely praying to be let alone. But what I desire to urge is their naturalisation in your rich woodlands, where Anemones and Primroses, Buttercups and Violets, grow up and flower together.”

“Nearby, a little wildflower (Erythronium americanum), commonly known as Dog's-tooth Violet, is a lovely plant with striking variegated leaves and attractive flowers that bloom in early spring. It thrives in low thickets with rich organic soil and grows here in abundance. One spot by the edge of a forest features a kind of ditch that fills with water in winter but dries out in summer, collecting a lot of leaf debris. Here, the Erythronium flourishes, creating a dense mat of greenery, all dotted with yellow flowers before any bushes or trees have produced leaves. Then, blackberry bushes start to spread everywhere, the trees expand their leafy shade, and grass and weeds grow up, covering the ground. But it's too late for the Adder's-tongue; its season is over—it has bloomed, matured, and retreated. The next most concentrated area I know of is in a low, cleared patch of woodland where, besides the abundance in the hollow, the carpet of flowers spreads more sparsely for many yards up the hillside. As garden plants, they fit in anywhere, under bushes or in any hidden corner, just asking to be left alone. But what I really want to emphasize is their naturalization in your rich woodlands, where Anemones, Primroses, Buttercups, and Violets grow and bloom together.”

I cannot better conclude this chapter than by showing one of the most interesting aspects of vegetation I have ever seen.[1] It was in an ordinary shrubbery, forming a belt round a botanic garden. In the inner parts, hidden from the walk probably from want of labour, the digging had not been carried out for some years. Some roots of the common Myrrh (Myrrhis odorata), thrown out of the garden in digging, had rooted by accident and spread into a little colony. The plant grows freely in any soil. Among the graceful tufts of Myrrh were tall white Harebells, and the effect of these, standing[61] above the elegant spreading foliage of the Myrrh in the shade of the trees, was very beautiful. Note particularly that the front of the shrubbery in which this exquisite scene was discovered was as stiff and hideous as usual in winter—raw earth, full of mutilated roots, and shrubs cut in for the convenience and according to the taste of the diggers. The beds in the botanical arrangement near were ugly beyond description.

I can't think of a better way to end this chapter than by highlighting one of the most fascinating aspects of vegetation I've ever encountered.[1] It was in a regular shrubbery that surrounded a botanical garden. In the inner areas, which were probably hidden from view due to lack of maintenance, the digging hadn’t been done for several years. Some roots of the common Myrrh (Myrrhis odorata), unintentionally thrown out of the garden during digging, had taken root and formed a small colony. The plant grows easily in any type of soil. Among the graceful clumps of Myrrh were tall white Harebells, and the sight of these, rising above the elegant, spreading leaves of the Myrrh in the shade of the trees, was truly beautiful. It's worth noting that the front of the shrubbery where this stunning scene was found was as stiff and unattractive as usual in winter—bare earth, littered with chopped roots, and shrubs trimmed for the convenience and preferences of the workers. The beds in the nearby botanical arrangement were indescribably ugly.

Longleat is one of the first places in which the idea of the wild garden was practically carried out and ably by the forester, Mr. Berry. With such a fine variety of surface and soil, the place naturally offers numerous positions in which the plants of other countries as cold or colder than our own could be naturalised, or so planted that they would increase and take care of themselves in the woods. A forester’s duties and opportunities are generally such as make it extremely difficult for him to carry out such an idea. To know the plants even that are likely to succeed is, in itself, a species of knowledge which every planter does not possess; however, the idea was clearly understood and carried out well, so far as possible in the face of rabbits, which are the great destroyers of almost all flowering ground vegetation. To get the necessary quantities of subjects necessitated a little nursery in which a sufficient number could be raised of the more vigorous perennials, bulbs, and climbers. If this new idea in gardening be carried out on the old dotting principle of the herbaceous border, its great value and its charming effects cannot be realised. To do it rightly we must group and mass as Nature does. Though we may enjoy a single flower or tuft here and there, the true way is natural fringes and masses of plants, one or two species prevailing in a given spot; in that way we[62] may secure several important ends—distinct effects in different places, a variety as we walk along, and better means of meeting the wants of a plant, inasmuch as, dealing with a group, or mass, or carpet, we can best observe the result of our judgment in putting them in any soil or place. Therefore, although the quantity of vigorous hardy flowers essential for making good effects in a place of this size has not yet been planted out, some very charming effects have been obtained. Among the features that Mr. Berry is working to introduce are vigorous hardy exotic creepers on old and inferior trees, Thorn, and other bushes of little value. Many are already planted, but will be some time before they show their full beauty—among them Japanese and other Honeysuckles, Virginian Creepers, Clematis, Wistarias, and others. A part of the arboretum is more particularly devoted to this kind of decoration, and will eventually form a very wild wood and wild garden, where the Poet’s Narcissus may be found among Sweet Briers, Lilacs, and many kinds of fragrant–flowering shrubs and vigorous perennials. While carrying out the scheme of wild gardening, pure and simple, that is to say, the naturalisation of foreign hardy plants, opportunity has been taken to establish beautiful native kinds where they do not happen to be present in sufficient abundance. Thus the Lily of the Valley has been brought in quantities and planted in wide–spreading colonies along the drives, and so have the Meadow Saffron and the Snowflakes and Daffodils. To group and scatter these in a natural and easy way has required considerable care, the tendency of the men being invariably, and almost in spite of themselves, to plant in stiff and set or too regular masses.

Longleat is one of the first places where the concept of the wild garden was effectively implemented, thanks to the forester, Mr. Berry. With its diverse terrain and soil, the area naturally provides many spots where plants from other countries, even those as cold or colder than our own, can thrive or be planted in ways that allow them to grow and sustain themselves in the woods. A forester's responsibilities and chances often make it quite challenging for him to realize such ideas. Understanding which plants are likely to succeed is a type of knowledge not all planters have; however, the concept was clearly grasped and executed as best as possible, despite the challenge posed by rabbits, which tend to destroy much of the flowering ground vegetation. Gathering enough specimens required a small nursery where a sufficient number of the more vigorous perennials, bulbs, and climbers could be raised. If this new gardening approach is applied using the old method of dotting the herbaceous border, its true value and charming effects won't be fully appreciated. To do it properly, we should group and cluster plants as Nature does. While we can admire a single flower or tuft here and there, the best approach is to create natural fringes and clusters of plants, with one or two species dominating a specific area. This way, we can achieve several important goals—distinct effects in different locations, variety as we walk through, and better matching of a plant's needs, since, working with a group or mass, we can best evaluate the outcome of our decisions regarding their placement in any soil or area. Therefore, although the number of robust, hardy flowers needed to create good effects in a space this large has not yet been fully planted, some lovely results have already been achieved. Among the features Mr. Berry is introducing are strong, hardy exotic climbers on old, lesser-quality trees, thorn bushes, and other less valuable shrubs. Many have already been planted, but it will take some time before they reveal their full beauty—this includes Japanese and other honeysuckles, Virginia creepers, clematis, wisterias, and more. A section of the arboretum is specifically dedicated to this type of landscaping and will eventually create a very wild wood and wild garden, where the Poet's Narcissus can be found among sweet briars, lilacs, and various fragrant flowering shrubs and vigorous perennials. While pursuing the simple goal of wild gardening—specifically, the naturalization of foreign hardy plants—there’s also been an opportunity to introduce beautiful native species where they don't naturally grow in enough quantity. For instance, the Lily of the Valley has been brought in large numbers and planted in extensive colonies along the drives, along with meadow saffron, snowflakes, and daffodils. Grouping and spreading these in a natural and effortless manner has required considerable care, as the workers tend to plant in rigid, orderly, or overly regular clusters, often without realizing it.

The Lily of the Valley in a copse.

The Lily of the Valley in a thicket.

Few things are more delightful to anybody who cares about hardy plants than naturalising the Lily of the Valley in pleasant spots about a country house. It is in every garden, of course, and very often so crowded and so starved that it seldom flowers well. A bare garden border is not so suitable for it as that in which it may be found in a thin wood, or in little openings in a copse, where it enjoys enough light, and gets shelter too. Frequently the fresh wood soil would be more welcome to it than the worn–out soil in a garden; also by planting it in various positions and soils, we may secure an important difference as regards blooming. In a cool woody place it would bloom ten days later than in an exposed warm garden border, and this difference could be increased by carefully selecting the position. Apart altogether from the wild garden and its charms, this difference in the time of blooming of the Lily of the Valley would be a great advantage to all who have to provide cut flowers, inasmuch as it would give them late bloom in plenty without trouble. However, giving reasons for the naturalisation of the Lily of the Valley is surely unnecessary. The only surprising[64] thing is that it has not been done to a large extent already, because it is so very easy and so very delightful. Recently a good many different varieties of Lily of the Valley—nearly as many as twenty—have been collected, and are beginning to be cultivated by some of our growers of herbaceous plants. The difference in these is not owing to soil or situation. When grown in the same place they manifest differences in length of spike and size of foliage; and also in time of blooming. In some the spike is short, and in others nearly one foot long. This important fact should, of course, be noted by any who would, in places where the Lily of the Valley does not grow wild, interest themselves in establishing it.

Few things are more enjoyable for anyone who loves resilient plants than naturalizing Lily of the Valley in beautiful spots around a country house. It’s found in almost every garden, but often so overcrowded and undernourished that it rarely blooms well. A bare garden border isn’t as suitable for it as a spot in a light forest or small openings in a thicket, where it gets enough sunlight and some shelter. Often, fresh woodland soil would be more beneficial than tired garden soil; plus, by planting it in various locations and soil types, we can achieve significant differences in blooming. In a cool, wooded area, it would bloom ten days later than in an exposed, sunny garden border, and this difference could be enhanced by carefully choosing the location. Aside from the charm of a wild garden, this difference in blooming times for Lily of the Valley would be a huge advantage for anyone needing cut flowers, as it would provide an abundance of late blooms with less effort. However, it’s probably unnecessary to explain why naturalizing Lily of the Valley is worthwhile. The only surprising thing is that it hasn’t already been widely done since it is so easy and delightful. Recently, a good number of different varieties of Lily of the Valley—nearly twenty—have been collected and are now being cultivated by some herbaceous plant growers. The differences among them aren’t due to soil or location. When grown in the same area, they show variations in spike length and leaf size, as well as blooming times. In some, the spike is short, while in others it can reach nearly one foot long. This important fact should definitely be considered by anyone interested in establishing Lily of the Valley in places where it doesn’t grow naturally.

There are advantages in wood–culture for many hardy plants—the shelter, shade, and soil affording for some things conditions more suitable than our gardens. The warmth of the wood, too, is an advantage, the fallen leaves helping to protect the plants in all ways. In a hot country plants that love cool places could be grown in a wood where they would perish if exposed. Mr. G. F. Wilson has made himself a remarkably interesting and successful wild garden in a wood, from which he sent me in the autumn of last year (1880) a flowering stem of the American Swamp Lily (L. superbum) eleven feet high. No such result has ever been seen in any garden or border of the ordinary type. These Lilies of his grow in a woody bottom where rich dark soil has gathered, and where there is shelter and shade.

There are benefits to woodlands for many hardy plants—the shelter, shade, and soil provide conditions that are more suitable than our gardens for some species. The warmth of the woods is also a plus, with fallen leaves helping to protect the plants in various ways. In a hot climate, plants that prefer cooler areas could thrive in a woodland where they would otherwise die if exposed. Mr. G. F. Wilson has created a remarkably interesting and successful wild garden in a woodland, from which he sent me a flowering stem of the American Swamp Lily (L. superbum) last autumn (1880) that was eleven feet high. No such result has ever been seen in any typical garden or flowerbed. His Lilies grow in a wooded area where rich dark soil has accumulated, and where there is both shelter and shade.

Placing every plant in one border with the same conditions as to soil and exposure was a great mistake. A great many beautiful plants haunt the woods, and we cannot change their nature easily. Even if we should grow them in open[65] places their bloom will not be so enduring as in the wood. A curious instance of the advantage of planting in a wood is at Bodorgan in Anglesey, where a much later bloom was gathered off a colony of the popular Hoteia japonica, owing to planting it in a cool wood. A little woodland planting may indeed be worth doing for the sake of a prolonged or later bloom, even from plants that thrive in sunny places.

Placing every plant in one section with the same soil and sunlight conditions was a big mistake. Many beautiful plants thrive in the woods, and we can’t easily change that. Even if we try to grow them in open spaces, their flowers won’t last as long as they do in the woods. A great example of the benefit of planting in a woodland is at Bodorgan in Anglesey, where a much later bloom was collected from a group of the popular Hoteia japonica because it was planted in a cool wooded area. A bit of woodland planting can be worthwhile for the sake of a longer or later bloom, even for plants that typically do well in sunny locations.

The Wild Garden Orchard.

Although three years have elapsed since the illustrations of this book were commenced, I regret to issue it without a satisfactory one showing the beauty which may be obtained in the orchard from flowers in the grass or fences around. In our orchard counties—pity it is that all our counties are not worthy of the name within the possibilities of their position and climate—one may now and then see a cloud of Daffodils or a tuft of Summer Snowflake, enough to suggest what happy places they would be for many bulbous flowers in the grass.

Although three years have passed since the illustrations for this book began, I’m sorry to publish it without a decent one that showcases the beauty that can be found in the orchard from flowers growing in the grass or along fences. In our orchard counties—it's a shame that not all our counties live up to the name given their potential and climate—you can sometimes spot a cluster of Daffodils or a patch of Summer Snowflake, hinting at how lovely these spots could be for many bulb flowers in the grass.

A Wild Orchard.

A correspondent of the “Garden” writes:—

A writer for the “Garden” says:—

After reading in the “Garden” of November 16, about the Bullace there named, and the Cranberries, the idea struck me of adding unto our Orchard in Sussex “a wild Orchard,” with fruit trees such as follows, viz.—Quince, Medlar, Mulberry, Bullace, Crab, Pyrus Maulei, Barberries, Blackberries (the large kinds for preserving), Filberts, and in a suitable place, Cranberries. All these, besides the interest of cultivating them, would yield fruit for preserving, etc. For instance, we have old–fashioned receipts for making an excellent Bullace cheese, Crab jelly, Quince jelly, etc. I venture to trouble you with a view to asking if[66] you can suggest any other similar fruit–bearing trees or shrubs, as we should like to carry out our idea well. Our house is in Sussex, between Midhurst and Haslemere.—C. S. R.

After reading about the Bullace and Cranberries in the “Garden” on November 16, I had the idea of adding a "wild Orchard" to our property in Sussex, with fruit trees like the following: Quince, Medlar, Mulberry, Bullace, Crab, Pyrus Maulei, Barberries, Blackberries (the large varieties for preserving), Filberts, and in a suitable spot, Cranberries. Besides the pleasure of growing them, these would provide fruit for preserving and other uses. For example, we have traditional recipes for making great Bullace cheese, Crab jelly, Quince jelly, and more. I'm reaching out to see if you can suggest any other similar fruit-bearing trees or shrubs, as we want to execute our idea well. Our house is located in Sussex, between Midhurst and Haslemere.—C. S. R.

[An excellent idea! There are many fruits which could be grown this way that people do not usually give space to, and this applies to the varieties of cultivated fruits, as well as species that are never cultivated. The natural order to which most of our fruit trees belong contains many other species, not without merit as fruits, scattered throughout the temperate regions of the northern world. These trees and shrubs happen also to be most beautiful of flowering trees and shrubs in spring, and are well worthy of culture on that account alone. In Japan, North America, and even the continent of Europe, one frequently sees fruits that are never seen in our gardens; such fruits will be quite at home in the wild orchard. For the sake of growing one family of fruiting bushes alone—the fruiting brambles of America and other countries—a considerable piece of ground might be profitably devoted. Even amongst the English wild Blackberries there is considerable variety and a good deal of unrecognised merit. Such plants can only be grown fairly where there is considerable space. If so much beauty and interest, and even good fruit, may be found in one neglected family, it suggests how interesting the subject is when considered in relation to the great number of our hardy fruit trees and shrubs. A good feature of such a garden would be plantations of such Apples and Pears as are most remarkable for the beauty of their flowers and fruit, some being much more striking in that respect than others.]

[What a great idea! There are many fruits that can be grown this way that people often overlook, and this includes both cultivated varieties and species that are rarely cultivated. The natural order of most fruit trees includes many other species, which are valuable as fruits, scattered across the temperate areas of the northern hemisphere. These trees and shrubs are also among the most beautiful flowering plants in spring, making them worthy of cultivation just for that reason. In Japan, North America, and even Europe, you often see fruits that are rarely found in our gardens; those fruits would thrive in a wild orchard. For just one group of fruit-bearing bushes—the bramble fruits of America and other places—a significant space could be profitably used. Even among the wild blackberries in England, there is a great variety and a lot of unrecognized potential. These plants require ample space for proper growth. If so much beauty and intrigue, along with good fruit, can be found in one neglected group, it hints at how fascinating the topic is when considering the vast number of our hardy fruit trees and shrubs. A great feature of such a garden would be plantings of Apples and Pears that are particularly notable for the beauty of their flowers and fruit, with some being much more impressive in this regard than others.]


CHAPTER IX.

THE BROOK–SIDE, WATER–SIDE, AND BOG GARDENS.
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THE BROOK–SIDE, WATER–SIDE, AND BOG GARDENS.
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Solomon’s Seal and Herb Paris, in copse by streamlet.

Solomon's Seal and Herb Paris, in a thicket by the small stream.

Nearly all landscape gardeners seem to have put a higher value on the lake or fish–pond than on the brook as an ornament to the garden; but, while we allow that many places are enhanced in beauty and dignity, by a broad expanse of water, many pictures might be formed by taking advantage of a brook as it meanders through woody glade or meadow. No such beauty is afforded by a pond or lake, which gives us water in repose—imprisoned[68] water, in fact; and although we obtain breadth by confining water, still, in many cases, we prefer the brook, or water in motion, as it ripples between mossy rocks or flower–fringed banks. The brook–margin, too, offers opportunities to lovers of hardy flowers which few other situations can rival. Hitherto we have only used in and near such places aquatic or bog plants, and of these usually a very meagre selection; but the improvement of the brook–side will be most readily effected by planting the banks with hardy flowers, making it a wild garden, in fact. A great number of our finest herbaceous plants, from Irises to Globe–flowers, thrive best in the moist soil found in such positions; numbers of hardy flowers, also, that do not in nature prefer such soil, would exist in perfect health in it. The wild garden illustrated by the water–side will give us some of the most charming garden pictures. Land plants would have this advantage over water ones, that we could fix their position, whereas water plants are apt to spread everywhere, and sometimes one kind exterminates the rest; therefore it might, in many cases, be better not to encourage the water or water–side vegetation, but to form little colonies of hardy flowers along the banks. The plants, of course, should be such as would grow freely among Grass and take care of themselves. If different types of vegetation were encouraged on each side of the water, the effect would be all the better. The common way of repeating a favourite plant at intervals would spoil all: groups of free hardy things, different in each place as one passed, would be best; Day Lilies; Phloxes, which love moisture; Irises, mainly the beardless kinds, which love wet places, but all the fine Germanica forms will do; Gunnera; Aster; American[69] swamp Lilies in peaty or boggy soil; the deep rose–coloured variety of the Loosestrife; Golden Rods; the taller and stouter Bell–flowers (Campanula); the Spider Wort (Tradescantia virginica), of which there are a good many forms, differing in colour; the Broad–leaved Saxifrages; the Compass plants (Silphium); Everlasting Peas; Monkshood; the Goats Rues (Galega); Baptisia; the free–flowering Yuccas; the hardiest flame–flowers (Tritoma); the stouter kinds of Yarrow (Achillea); the common perennial Lupin—these are some of many types of hardy flowers which would grow freely near the water–side[70] apart wholly from the plants that naturally frequent such places or which are usually placed there. With these hardy plants too, a variety of the nobler hardy ferns would thrive, as the Struthiopteris; the finer types of the Umbellate order (Ferula and others) would also come in well here. We will now consider the plants that naturally belong to such situations so to say.

Almost all landscape gardeners seem to value the lake or fishpond more than the brook as a decorative feature of the garden. While we agree that many places look more beautiful and dignified with a broad expanse of water, a brook can create many picturesque scenes as it winds through wooded glades or meadows. A pond or lake, in contrast, offers us still water—essentially trapped water—and although we gain a sense of space by containing water, we often prefer the brook, or moving water, as it dances between mossy rocks or flower-lined banks. The edge of the brook also provides opportunities for fans of hardy flowers that few other locations match. Until now, we've typically used only aquatic or bog plants in and around these areas, usually a limited selection; however, improving the brookside can be easily achieved by planting the banks with hardy flowers, essentially turning it into a wild garden. Many of our finest herbaceous plants, from Irises to Globe-flowers, do best in the moist soil found in such locations; many hardy flowers that wouldn’t typically prefer such soil would thrive in it. A wild garden by the water will present some of the most delightful garden scenes. Terrestrial plants would have the advantage over aquatic ones in that we could control their placement, while water plants tend to spread everywhere, sometimes wiping out the rest; thus, it might be better not to encourage water or waterside vegetation but to create small clusters of hardy flowers along the banks. The plants, of course, should thrive in grass and be self-sufficient. If we foster different types of vegetation on each side of the water, the overall effect would be enhanced. The common method of repeating a favorite plant at intervals would ruin everything; groups of varied hardy plants, each different as you pass by, would be ideal: Day Lilies, moisture-loving Phloxes, Irises—especially the beardless types that prefer wet spots, though all the fine Germanica forms work too; Gunnera; Aster; American swamp Lilies in peaty or boggy soil; the deep rose-colored variety of Loosestrife; Golden Rods; taller and sturdier Bell-flowers (Campanula); Spider Wort (Tradescantia virginica), which has numerous color variations; Broad-leaved Saxifrages; Compass plants (Silphium); Everlasting Peas; Monkshood; Goats Rues (Galega); Baptisia; free-flowering Yuccas; the hardiest flame-flowers (Tritoma); sturdier types of Yarrow (Achillea); and the common perennial Lupin—these are just a few hardy flowers that would grow well near the waterside, completely separate from the plants that naturally grow in these areas or are usually placed there. Along with these hardy plants, a variety of noble hardy ferns would thrive too, like Struthiopteris; and the finer types of the Umbellate order (Ferula and others) would also fit in nicely here. Now, let’s look at the plants that naturally belong in these areas.

Colony of hardy exotic Flowers, naturalised by brook–side.

Colony of resilient exotic flowers, established by the side of the brook.

Water–plants of northern and temperate regions, associated with those of our own country, add much beauty to a garden if well selected and well grown. A great deal of variety may be added to the margins, and here and there to the surface, of ornamental water, by the use of a good collection of hardy aquatics arranged with taste; but this has not yet been fairly attempted. Usually we see the same monotonous vegetation all round the margin if the soil be rich; in some cases, where the bottom is of gravel, there is little or no vegetation, but an unbroken ugly line of washed earth between wind and water. In others, water–plants accumulate till they are only an eyesore—not submerged plants like Anacharis, but such as the Water Lilies when matted together. A well–developed plant or group of plants of the queenly Water Lily, with its large leaves and noble flowers, is an object not surpassed by any other in our gardens; but when it increases and runs over the whole of a piece of water—thickening together and being in consequence weakened—and water–fowl cannot make their way through it, then even this plant loses its charms. No garden water, however, should be without a few fine plants or groups of the Water Lily. Where the bottom does not allow of the free development of the plant, earth might be accumulated in the spot where it was desired to encourage the growth of the Nymphæa. Thus arranged it would not spread too much. But it is not difficult to prevent the plant from spreading; indeed I have known isolated plants, and groups of it, remain of almost the same size for years. The Yellow Water Lily, Nuphar lutea, though not so beautiful as the preceding, is well worthy of a place; and also the little N. pumila, a variety or sub–species found in the lakes of the north of Scotland.

Water plants from northern and temperate regions, alongside those from our country, can really enhance a garden’s beauty if chosen and nurtured properly. You can add a lot of variety to the edges and occasionally to the surface of ornamental water by using a nice collection of hardy aquatic plants arranged thoughtfully; however, this approach hasn’t been fully explored yet. Typically, we see the same dull vegetation around the edges if the soil is rich; in some areas where the bottom is gravel, there’s little to no vegetation, just an unattractive line of exposed earth between the wind and water. In other cases, water plants can pile up until they’re just a nuisance—not submerged plants like Anacharis, but rather Water Lilies when they become tangled together. A well-grown plant or group of the majestic Water Lily, with its large leaves and stunning flowers, is unmatched in our gardens; but when it spreads and covers an entire body of water—becoming dense and consequently weaker—and waterfowl can’t navigate through it, even this beautiful plant loses its appeal. Nonetheless, every garden pond should have a few lovely plants or groups of Water Lilies. If the bottom isn’t suitable for the plant to grow freely, soil could be added in the area where you want to promote the growth of the Nymphæa. When arranged this way, it won’t spread excessively. It’s also not hard to keep the plant from spreading; in fact, I’ve seen isolated plants and groups remain nearly the same size for years. The Yellow Water Lily, Nuphar lutea, though not as stunning as the previous one, definitely deserves a spot; as does the small N. pumila, a variety or subspecies found in the lakes of northern Scotland.

Valley in Somersetshire, with Narcissi, Marsh Marigolds, and Primroses.

Valley in Somersetshire, with Daffodils, Marsh Marigolds, and Primroses.

Then there is the fine and large N. advena, a native of America, which pushes its leaves boldly above the water, and is very vigorous in habit. It is very plentiful in the Manchester Botanic Garden, and will be found to some extent in most gardens of the same kind. The American White Water Lily (Nymphæa odorata) is a noble species, which would prove quite hardy in Britain. It is a pity this noble aquatic plant is not more frequently seen, as it is quite as fine as our own Water Lily. Rose–coloured varieties are spoken of, but are not yet in cultivation here.

Then there’s the impressive and large N. advena, which comes from America, pushing its leaves confidently above the water and growing very vigorously. It’s quite common in the Manchester Botanic Garden and can be found in many similar gardens. The American White Water Lily (Nymphæa odorata) is a magnificent species that would likely thrive in Britain. It’s a shame this beautiful aquatic plant isn’t seen more often, as it’s just as stunning as our own Water Lily. There are mentions of rose-colored varieties, but they haven’t been cultivated here yet.

One of the prettiest effects I have ever observed was afforded by a sheet of Villarsia nymphæoides belting round the margin of a lake near a woody recess, and before it, more towards the deep water, a group of Water Lilies. The Villarsia is a charming little water–plant, with its Nymphæa–like leaves and numerous golden–yellow flowers, which furnish a beautiful effect on fine days, under a bright sun. It is not very commonly distributed as a native plant, though, where found, generally very plentiful.

One of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen was a patch of Villarsia nymphæoides lining the edge of a lake near a wooded area, and in front of it, closer to the deeper water, a cluster of Water Lilies. The Villarsia is a lovely little aquatic plant, with its Nymphæa-like leaves and many golden-yellow flowers, which create a stunning display on nice days under bright sunlight. It’s not very widespread as a native plant, but where it is found, it tends to be quite abundant.

Not rare—growing, in fact, in nearly all districts of Britain—but beautiful and singular, is the Buckbean or[72] Marsh Trefoil (Menyanthes trifoliata), with its flowers deeply fringed on the inside with white filaments, and the round unopened buds blushing on the top with a rosy red like that of an Apple–blossom. It will grow in a bog or any moist place, or by the margin of any water. For grace, no water–plant can well surpass Equisetum Telmateia, which, in deep soil, in shady and sheltered places near water, often grows several feet high, the long, close–set, slender branches depending from each whorl in a singularly graceful manner. It will grow on the margins of lakes and streams, especially among water–side bushes, or in boggy spots in the shade.

Not uncommon—actually growing in almost every part of Britain—but beautiful and unique, is the Buckbean or [72] Marsh Trefoil (Menyanthes trifoliata). Its flowers are deeply fringed on the inside with white filaments, and the round unopened buds blush rosy red on top, similar to an apple blossom. It thrives in a bog or any damp area, or along the edge of any water. For elegance, no water plant can really compete with Equisetum Telmateia, which can grow several feet high in deep soil, in shaded and sheltered areas near water, with long, tightly arranged, slender branches gracefully drooping from each whorl. It prefers the edges of lakes and streams, especially among water-side shrubs, or in shaded, boggy spots.

For a bold and picturesque plant on the margin of water, nothing equals the great Water Dock (Rumex Hydrolapathum), which is rather generally dispersed over the British Isles; it has leaves quite sub–tropical in aspect and size, becoming of a lurid red in the autumn. It forms a grand mass of foliage on rich muddy banks, and, unlike many water–plants, has the good quality of not spreading too much. The Cat’s–tail (Typha) must not be omitted, but it should not be allowed too much liberty. The narrow–leaved one (T. angustifolia) is more graceful than the common one (T. latifolia). Carex pendula is excellent for the margins of water, its elegant drooping spikes being quite distinct in their way. It is rather common in England, more so than Carex pseudocyperus, which grows well in a foot or two of water or on the margin of a muddy pond. Carex paniculata forms a strong and thick stem, sometimes 3 ft. or 4 ft. high, somewhat like a tree Fern, and with luxuriant masses of drooping leaves, and on that account is transferred to moist places in gardens, and cultivated by some, though generally these large specimens[73] are difficult to remove and soon perish. Scirpus lacustris (the Bulrush) is too distinct a plant to be omitted, as its stems, sometimes attaining a height of more than 7 ft. and even 8 ft., look very imposing; and Cyperus longus is also a desirable plant, reminding one of the aspect of the Papyrus when in flower. It is found in some of the southern counties of England. Poa aquatica might also be used. Cladium Mariscus is another distinct and rather scarce British aquatic which is worth a place.ill73

For a bold and vibrant plant along the water's edge, nothing compares to the great Water Dock (Rumex Hydrolapathum), which is commonly found across the British Isles. Its leaves have a tropical look and size, turning a striking red in the autumn. It creates a stunning expanse of foliage on rich muddy banks, and unlike many water plants, it doesn't spread too much. The Cat’s-tail (Typha) is worth mentioning, but it shouldn't be given too much freedom. The narrow-leaved variety (T. angustifolia) is more elegant than the common one (T. latifolia). Carex pendula is great for the edges of water, with its lovely drooping spikes that are quite unique. It is fairly common in England, more so than Carex pseudocyperus, which thrives in a foot or two of water or on the edge of a muddy pond. Carex paniculata has a strong, thick stem that can grow up to 3 or 4 feet tall, similar to a tree fern, with lush clusters of drooping leaves. Because of this, it's often moved to wet areas in gardens and cultivated by some, though larger specimens can be hard to transplant and tend to die off quickly. Scirpus lacustris (the Bulrush) is too distinctive to be left out, with stems that can reach over 7 or even 8 feet tall, giving a very impressive look. Cyperus longus is also a sought-after plant, resembling the appearance of Papyrus when it's in bloom. It can be found in some southern counties of England. Poa aquatica could also be included. Cladium Mariscus is another unique and somewhat rare British aquatic plant that deserves a spot.

Cyperus Longus.

Cyperus longus.

If one chose to enumerate the plants that grow in British and European waters, a very long list might be made, but those which possess no distinct character or no beauty of flower would be useless, for it is only by a judicious selection of the very best kinds that gardening of this description can give satisfaction; therefore, omitting a host of inconspicuous water–weeds, we will endeavour to indicate others of real worth for our present purpose.

If someone wanted to list the plants that grow in British and European waters, it would be a very long list. However, those without any distinct features or beautiful flowers would be pointless, because gardening of this kind can only be satisfying through a careful selection of the best varieties. So, instead of including a bunch of unremarkable water weeds, we'll focus on those that are truly valuable for our current purpose.

Those who have seen the flowering Rush (Butomus umbellatus) in blossom, are not likely to omit it from a collection of water–plants, as it is conspicuous and distinct. It is a native of the greater part of Europe and Russian Asia, and is dispersed[74] over the central and southern parts of England and Ireland. Plant it not far from the margin, and it likes rich muddy soil. The common Arrow Head (Sagittaria), very frequent in England and Ireland, but not in Scotland, might be associated with this; but there is a very much finer double exotic kind, which is really a handsome plant, its flowers white, and resembling, but larger than, those of the old white Double Rocket. This used to be grown in abundance in the pleasure gardens at Rye House, Broxbourne, where it filled a sort of oblong basin, or wide ditch, and was very handsome in flower. It forms large egg–shaped tubers, or rather receptacles of farina, and in searching for these, ducks destroyed the plants occasionally. Calla palustris is a beautiful bog–plant, and I know nothing that produces a more pleasing effect over rich, soft, boggy ground. It will also grow by the side of water. Calla æthiopica, the well–known and beautiful Lily of the Nile, is hardy enough in some places if planted rather deep, and in nearly all it may be placed out for the summer; but, except in quiet waters, in the south of England and Ireland, it will not thrive. However, as it is a plant so generally cultivated, it may be tried without loss in favourable positions. Pontederia cordata is a stout, firm–rooting, and perfectly hardy water–herb, with erect and distinct habit, and blue flowers, not difficult to obtain from botanic garden or nursery. The Sweet–flag will be associated with the Water Iris (I. Pseudacorus), and a number of exotic Irises will thrive in wet ground, i.e. I. sibirica, ochreleuca, graminea, and many others. Aponogeton distachyon is a native of the Cape of Good Hope, a singularly pretty plant, which is hardy enough for our climate, and, from its sweetness and curious beauty, a most[75] desirable plant to cultivate. It frequently succeeds in water not choked by weeds or foulness, and wherever there are springs that tend to keep the water a little warmer than usual it seems to thrive in any part of the country. The Water Ranunculuses, which sheet over our pools in spring and early summer with such silvery beauty, are not worth an attempt at cultivation, so rambling are they; and the same applies to not a few other things of interest. Orontium aquaticum is a scarce and handsome aquatic for a choice collection, and as beautiful as any is the Water Violet (Hottonia palustris). It occurs most frequently in the eastern and central districts of England and Ireland. The best example of it that I have seen was on an expanse of soft mud near Lea Bridge, in Essex, where it covered the surface with a sheet of dark fresh green, and must have looked better in that position than when in water, though doubtless the place was occasionally flooded. A suitable companion for the Marsh Marigold (Caltha) and its varieties is the very large and showy Ranunculus Lingua, which grows in rich ground to a height of three feet or more.

Those who have seen the flowering Rush (Butomus umbellatus) in bloom are unlikely to leave it out of a collection of water plants, as it's striking and unique. It's native to much of Europe and Russian Asia and can be found throughout central and southern England and Ireland. Plant it close to the water's edge, and it prefers rich, muddy soil. The common Arrowhead (Sagittaria), which is quite common in England and Ireland but not in Scotland, could be found alongside this plant; however, there is a much more impressive double exotic variety that is truly attractive, with larger white flowers resembling those of the old white Double Rocket. This plant used to thrive abundantly in the pleasure gardens at Rye House, Broxbourne, where it filled a long basin or wide ditch and looked stunning when in flower. It produces large egg-shaped tubers, or rather receptacles of fine pollen, and ducks would occasionally destroy the plants while searching for these. Calla palustris is a lovely bog plant, and I know of nothing that creates a more pleasing effect over rich, soft, boggy ground. It can also grow alongside water. Calla æthiopica, the well-known and beautiful Lily of the Nile, is hardy enough in some areas if planted relatively deep, and in most places, it can be placed outside for the summer; however, it won't thrive in loud waters in southern England and Ireland. Still, as it's a plant that's widely cultivated, it can be tried without much risk in favorable spots. Pontederia cordata is a sturdy, firm-rooting, and completely hardy water herb, with an upright and distinct habit and blue flowers, which isn't hard to get from a botanic garden or nursery. The Sweet-flag will often grow alongside the Water Iris (I. Pseudacorus), and several exotic Irises will do well in wet conditions, such as I. sibirica, ochreleuca, graminea, and many others. Aponogeton distachyon is native to the Cape of Good Hope, a particularly pretty plant that's hardy enough for our climate, and because of its sweetness and curious beauty, it's a highly desirable plant to grow. It often thrives in water that's free from weeds or debris, and wherever there are springs that keep the water a bit warmer than usual, it seems to do well anywhere in the country. The Water Ranunculuses, which cover our ponds in spring and early summer with such silvery beauty, aren't worth trying to cultivate due to their sprawling nature; the same goes for many other interesting plants. Orontium aquaticum is a rare and attractive aquatic for a specialized collection, and the Water Violet (Hottonia palustris) is just as beautiful. It is most commonly found in the eastern and central regions of England and Ireland. The best example I've seen was on a stretch of soft mud near Lea Bridge, in Essex, where it created a dark fresh green cover on the surface, likely looking even better in that spot than when thriving in water, though it was probably flooded occasionally. A suitable companion for the Marsh Marigold (Caltha) and its varieties is the very large and showy Ranunculus Lingua, which can grow to three feet or more in rich soil.

The Cape Pond Weed in an English ditch in winter.
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The Cape Pond Weed in a British ditch in winter.
ill76

Day Lily by margin of water.

Day Lily by the edge of the water.

If with this water–garden we combine the wild garden of land plants—herbaceous, trailers, etc.—some of the loveliest effects possible in gardens will be produced. The margins of lakes and streams are happily not upturned by the spade in winter; and hereabouts, just away from the water–line, almost any vigorous and really hardy flower of the thousands now in our gardens may be grown and will afterwards take care of itself. The Globe–flowers alone would form beautiful effects in such positions, and would endure as long as the Grass. Near the various Irises that love the water–side might be planted those that thrive in moist ground, and they are many, including the most beautiful kinds. Among recently introduced plants the singular Californian Saxifraga peltata is likely to prove a noble one for the water–side, its natural habitat being beside mountain watercourses, dry in the autumn when it is at rest; both flowers and foliage are effective, and the growth very vigorous when in moist ground. It would require a very long list to enumerate all the plants that would grow near the margins of water, and apart from the aquatics proper; but enough has been said to prove that, given a strip of ground beside a stream or lake, a garden of[77] the most delightful kind could be formed. The juxtaposition of plants inhabiting different situations—water–plants, water–side plants, and land–plants thriving in moist ground—would prevent what would, in many cases, be so undesirable—a general admixture of the whole. Two distinct classes of effects could be obtained, the beauty of the flowers seen close at hand, and that of the more conspicuous kinds in the distance, or from the other side of the water of a stream or lakelet.

If we combine this water garden with a wild garden of land plants—like flowering herbs and trailing plants—we can create some of the most beautiful effects in gardens. Luckily, the edges of lakes and streams aren't disturbed by digging in winter; and just slightly away from the water's edge, almost any robust and genuinely hardy flower from the thousands available can be planted and will thrive on its own. The Globe flowers alone would create lovely displays in those spots and would last as long as the grass. Near the various Irises that enjoy the water's edge, we could plant those that do well in moist soil, and there are many options, including some of the most stunning varieties. Among the newly introduced plants, the unique Californian Saxifraga peltata is likely to be a fantastic choice for the water's edge, as its natural habitat is by mountain streams, dry in the autumn when it's dormant; both its flowers and leaves are striking, and it grows very vigorously in moist conditions. It would take a long list to name all the plants that could flourish near water margins, aside from true aquatic plants; but it's clear that if we have a strip of land beside a stream or lake, we could create a garden of[77] the most delightful kind. The combination of plants from different habitats—water plants, water's edge plants, and land plants thriving in moist soil—would avoid what might often be undesirable: a general mixing of everything. We could achieve two distinct types of effects, enjoying the beauty of flowers up close and the more striking ones in the distance or from the opposite side of a stream or small lake.

An interesting point in favour of the wild garden is the succession of effects which it may afford, and which are suggested by the illustrations on the next pages, both showing a succession of life on the same spot of ground. In gardens in early summer at present the whole of the portion devoted to flower–gardening is dug up raw as a ploughed field, just when the earth is naturally most thickly strewn with flowers. A very little consideration and observation will suffice to make it clear that a succession of effects may be secured without this violent disfigurement of our gardens in the fairest days of early summer. These are not the days for digging or planting either, and the system that necessitates them is pernicious in its effects on our gardens.

An interesting point in favor of the wild garden is the variety of effects it can offer, as illustrated on the following pages, both showing a progression of life in the same area. In gardens during early summer now, the entire section set aside for flower gardening is dug up like a plowed field, just when the ground is naturally filled with flowers. A little thought and observation make it clear that we can achieve a variety of effects without this harsh disruption of our gardens during the beautiful days of early summer. These aren't the right days for digging or planting either, and the system that requires them is harmful to our gardens.

It is equally an enemy of all peace or rest for the gardener, who, having trenched, dug, enriched, planted, and sown, through the autumn, winter, and spring, might certainly begin to look for the fruits and flowers of his labour, when he has to face the most trying effort of all—the planting of the flower–garden in May and June with a host of flowers too tender to be committed to the earth at an earlier season.

It’s also an enemy of any peace or relaxation for the gardener, who, after digging, enriching, planting, and sowing throughout autumn, winter, and spring, would expect to see the results of their hard work. Instead, they must deal with the toughest challenge of all—the planting of the flower garden in May and June, filled with delicate flowers that can’t be planted earlier in the season.

Marsh Marigold and Iris in early spring. (See p. 77.)

Marsh Marigold and Iris in early spring. (See p. 77.)

The bog–garden is a home for the numerous children of the wild that will not thrive on our harsh, bare, and dry garden borders, but must be cushioned on moss, and associated with their own relatives in moist peat soil. Many beautiful plants, like the Wind Gentian and Creeping Harebell, grow on our own bogs and marshes, much as these are now encroached upon. But even those acquainted with the beauty of the plants of our own bogs have, as a rule, but a feeble notion of the multitude of charming plants, natives of northern and temperate countries, whose home is the open marsh or boggy wood. In our own country, we have been so long encroaching upon the bogs and wastes that some of us come to regard them as exceptional tracts all over the world. But when one travels in new countries in northern climes, one soon learns what a vast extent of the world’s surface was at one time covered with bogs. In North America day after day, even by the margins of the railroads, one sees the vivid blooms of the Cardinal–flower springing erect from the wet peaty hollows. Far under the shady woods stretch the black bog–pools, the ground between being so shaky that you move a few steps with difficulty. One wonders how the trees exist with their roots in such a bath. And where the forest vegetation disappears the American Pitcher–plant (Sarracenia),[79] Golden Club (Orontium), Water Arum (Calla palustris), and a host of other handsome and interesting bog–plants cover the ground for hundreds of acres, with perhaps an occasional slender bush of Laurel Magnolia (Magnolia glauca) among them. In some parts of Canada, where the painfully long and straight roads are often made through woody swamps, and where the few scattered and poor habitations offer little to cheer the traveller, he will, if a lover of plants, find conservatories of beauty in the ditches and pools of black water beside the road, fringed with the sweet–scented Buttonbush, with a profusion of stately ferns, and often filled with masses of the pretty Sagittarias.

The bog garden is a habitat for many wild creatures that can't thrive in our harsh, bare, and dry garden edges. They need the comfort of moss and should be surrounded by their own kind in moist peat soil. Many beautiful plants, like the Wind Gentian and Creeping Harebell, bloom in our own bogs and marshes, even though these areas are getting overrun. But even those who appreciate the beauty of our native bog plants usually have a limited understanding of the wide variety of charming plants native to northern and temperate regions that thrive in open marshes or boggy woods. In our own country, we've been encroaching on bogs and wastelands for so long that some of us see them as rare spots around the globe. However, when traveling in new northern regions, you quickly realize how much of the earth was once covered in bogs. In North America, day after day, even along the edges of railroads, you can see the vibrant blooms of the Cardinal flower standing tall from wet, peaty hollows. Deep in the shaded woods lie dark bog pools, with ground that's so unstable that you can barely take a few steps. It’s surprising how trees manage to survive with their roots immersed in such water. Where the forest vegetation fades, you'll find the American Pitcher plant (Sarracenia), Golden Club (Orontium), Water Arum (Calla palustris), and many other beautiful and fascinating bog plants covering the ground for hundreds of acres, with maybe an occasional slender bush of Laurel Magnolia (Magnolia glauca) mixed in. In some areas of Canada, where the painfully long and straight roads cut through wooded swamps and the few sparse and shabby homes offer little to uplift the traveler, a plant lover will discover beautiful gardens in the ditches and pools of black water beside the road, lined with sweet-scented Buttonbush, an abundance of majestic ferns, and often filled with clusters of pretty Sagittarias.

The same spot as in opposite sketch, with aftergrowth of Iris, Meadow Sweet, and Bindweed. (See p. 77.)

The same spot as in the sketch on the opposite page, now with growth of Iris, Meadow Sweet, and Bindweed. (See p. 77.)

Southwards and seawards, the bog–flowers become tropical in size and brilliancy, as in the splendid kinds of herbaceous Hibiscus, while far north, and west and south along the mountains, the beautiful and showy Mocassin–flower (Cypripedium spectabile) grows the queen of the peat bog. Then in California, all along the Sierras, there are a number of delicate little annual plants growing in small mountain bogs[80] long after the plains have become quite parched, and annual vegetation has quite disappeared from them. But who shall record the beauty and interest of the flowers of the wide–spreading marsh–lands of this globe of ours, from those of the vast wet woods of America, dark and brown, and hidden from the sunbeams, to those of the breezy uplands of the high Alps, far above the woods, where the little bogs teem with Nature’s most brilliant flowers, joyous in the sun? No one worthily; for many mountain–swamp regions are as yet as little known to us as those of the Himalaya, with their giant Primroses and many strange and lovely flowers. One thing, however, we may gather from our small experiences—that many plants commonly termed “alpine,” and found on high mountains, are true bog–plants. This must be clear to anyone who has seen our pretty Bird’s–eye Primrose in the wet mountain–side bogs of Westmoreland, or the Bavarian Gentian in the spongy soil by alpine rivulets, or the Gentianella (Gentiana acaulis) in the snow ooze.

Southward and toward the sea, the bog flowers grow bigger and more vibrant, like the stunning types of herbaceous Hibiscus. Far to the north, west, and south along the mountains, the beautiful and striking Moccasin flower (Cypripedium spectabile) reigns as the queen of the peat bog. Then in California, throughout the Sierras, you'll find a variety of delicate little annual plants thriving in small mountain bogs long after the plains have become completely dry and annual plants have vanished. But who can truly capture the beauty and appeal of the flowers in the vast marshlands of our planet, from the enormous wet forests of America, dark and brown and shaded from the sun, to the breezy uplands of the high Alps, far above the trees, where the little bogs burst with Nature’s most brilliant flowers, basking in the sunlight? No one can do it justice; many mountain swamp areas remain as unknown to us as those of the Himalayas, filled with their giant Primroses and various strange and beautiful flowers. One thing we can learn from our limited experiences is that many plants often labeled as “alpine,” found on high mountains, are in fact true bog plants. This is evident to anyone who has seen our lovely Bird’s-eye Primrose in the wet mountain bogs of Westmoreland, or the Bavarian Gentian in the spongy soil by alpine streams, or the Gentianella (Gentiana acaulis) thriving in the snowy muck.

Bogs are neither found or desired in or near our gardens now–a–days, but, wherever they are, there are many handsome flowers from other countries that will thrive in them as freely as in their native wastes.

Bogs aren't found or wanted in or near our gardens these days, but wherever they exist, there are many beautiful flowers from other countries that will grow in them as easily as in their natural habitats.

Partridge Berry (Gualtheria).

Partridge Berry (Gaultheria).


CHAPTER X.

ROSES FOR THE WILD GARDEN, AND FOR HEDGEROWS, FENCES, AND GROUPS.

ROSES FOR THE WILD GARDEN, AS WELL AS FOR HEDGEROWS, FENCES, AND GROUPINGS.

The wild Roses of the world, had we no other plants, would alone make beautiful wild gardens. The unequalled grace of the Wild Rose is as remarkable as the beauty of bloom for which the Rose is grown in gardens. The culture is mostly of a kind which tends to conceal or suppress the grace of shoot and foliage of the Rose. Therefore the wild garden may do good work in bringing before the many who love gardens, but have fewer chances of seeing the Roses in their native haunts, the native grace of the well–loved Rose, which even in its obesity, and trained into the form of a mop, still charms us. The Rev. H. N. Ellacombe writes:—

The wild roses of the world, if we had no other plants, would still create stunning wild gardens. The unmatched elegance of the wild rose is just as striking as the beauty of the blossoms that we grow in gardens. The way they are cultivated often hides or downplays the graceful growth and leaves of the rose. So, wild gardens can really help showcase the natural charm of the beloved rose to many garden lovers who might not get a chance to see roses in their natural settings, which keeps charming us even when they are overgrown or shaped into odd forms. The Rev. H. N. Ellacombe writes:—

I have here a very large and thick Box bush, in the centre of which there has been for many years an Ayrshire Rose. The long branches covered with flowers, and resting on the deep green cushion, have a very beautiful effect. Other Roses may be used in the same way. The Musk Rose of Shakespeare and Bacon would be particularly well suited for this, and would climb up to a great height. Rosa scandens or sempervirens, Rosa multiflora, and perhaps some others, might be grown in the same way; and it would be worth while to experiment with other garden forms, such as Aimée Vibert, purple Boursault, etc. If grown against a tree of thin foliage, such as a[82] Robinia, they would grow quicker and flower sooner; but this is not necessary, for even if grown near a thick–foliaged tree they will soon bring their branches to the outside for the light. But besides climbing Roses, there is another way in which Roses may be combined with trees to great advantage, viz. by planting some of the taller–growing bushes in rough grassy places. These would grow from 6 feet to 10 feet high, and would flower well in such a position. For such a purpose the old Dutch Apple Rose (Rosa villosa var. pomifera) would be very suitable, and so would R. cinnamomea, R. fraxinifolia, R. gallica, R. rubifolia, and the common monthly China. And if growers would rear the perpetual and other Roses by autumnal cuttings instead of by budding, they might have hundreds and thousands of fine Roses which would do well planted in the woods and plantations.

I have a large, thick Box bush, in the center of which there has been an Ayrshire Rose for many years. The long branches, covered in flowers and resting on the deep green cushion, create a beautiful effect. Other Roses can be used in the same way. The Musk Rose, known from Shakespeare and Bacon, would be particularly suitable and could climb to great heights. Rosa scandens or sempervirens, Rosa multiflora, and maybe a few others could be grown this way; it would be worth experimenting with other garden varieties, like Aimée Vibert or purple Boursault. If grown against a tree with thin foliage, like a[82] Robinia, they would grow faster and flower sooner; but this isn't necessary, because even if grown near a thick-foliaged tree, they will soon stretch their branches out for the light. In addition to climbing Roses, there's another way to combine Roses with trees effectively, which is by planting taller-growing bushes in rough grassy areas. These would grow between 6 to 10 feet high and bloom well in such a position. For this purpose, the old Dutch Apple Rose (Rosa villosa var. pomifera) would be very suitable, along with R. cinnamomea, R. fraxinifolia, R. gallica, R. rubifolia, and the common monthly China. If growers propagate the perpetual and other Roses from autumn cuttings instead of budding, they could have hundreds or thousands of beautiful Roses that would thrive in woods and plantations.

Another correspondent, Mr. Greenwood Pim, writes referring to the preceding note:—

Another correspondent, Mr. Greenwood Pim, writes in response to the previous note:—

I have two large exotic Hawthorns—round–headed standards, growing close together, so that their edges touch, forming, as it were, two gentle hills with a valley between, and sloping down to within about 6 ft. of the lawn. Of these one is Cratægus Crus–galli; the other C. tanacetifolia. Behind, and partly through these, climbs a very old Noisette Rose—all that now remains of an arched trellis—producing a vast number of bunches of white flowers, six or eight together, and about 1½ in. or 2 in. across. The old gnarled stem of the Rose is scarcely noticeable amongst those of the Thorns till it reaches the top of them, whence it descends between the trees in a regular torrent of blossom, in addition to occupying the topmost boughs of the Cockspur Thorn. The general effect is almost that of a large patch of snow between two bright green hills—a combination very common in the higher districts of Switzerland. A smaller plant of the same Rose has recently been trained up a large Arbor–vitæ which, from moving, has lost its lower branches for some 4 ft. or 5 ft., and has its stem clothed with Ivy. It is now festooned with snowy flowers hanging down from and against the dark green of the Arbor–vitæ and Ivy, forming a charming contrast. It seems a great pity that we do not oftener thus wed one tree to another—a stout and strong to a slender and clinging one, as Virgil in the “Georgics” talks of wedding the Vine to the Elm, as is, I believe, done to this day in Italy.ill83

I have two large, exotic Hawthorns—rounded-headed standards, growing close together so that their edges touch, creating two gentle hills with a valley in between, sloping down to within about 6 feet of the lawn. One is Cratægus Crus-galli; the other is C. tanacetifolia. Behind them, an old Noisette Rose climbs up and partly through these trees—it's all that's left of an arched trellis—producing numerous clusters of white flowers, six or eight together, about 1½ to 2 inches across. The gnarled old stem of the Rose is barely noticeable among the Thorns until it reaches the top, from which it cascades down between the trees in a regular flow of blossoms, and also occupies the highest branches of the Cockspur Thorn. The overall look is almost like a large patch of snow between two bright green hills—a common sight in the higher regions of Switzerland. A smaller version of the same Rose has recently been trained up a large Arbor-vitæ, which, due to being moved, has lost its lower branches for about 4 to 5 feet and has its stem covered in Ivy. It's now decorated with snowy flowers hanging down against the dark green of the Arbor-vitæ and Ivy, creating a lovely contrast. It seems unfortunate that we don’t often connect one tree to another like this—a sturdy, strong one to a slender, climbing one, as Virgil mentions in the “Georgics” regarding bonding the Vine to the Elm, which I believe is still done in Italy today.ill83

Wild Rose growing on a Pollard Ash in Orchardleigh Park, Somerset.

Wild Rose growing on a Pollard Ash in Orchardleigh Park, Somerset.

“We have,” says a correspondent, “a pretty extensive collection of Roses, but one of the most attractive specimens on the place is an old double white Ayrshire Rose, growing in a group of common Laurel in the shrubberies. We cannot tell how old the plant may be, but it has probably been in its present situation for thirty years, struggling the best way it could to keep its place among[84] the tall–growing Laurels, sometimes sending out a shoot of white flowers on this side and sometimes on that side of the clump of bushes, and sometimes scrambling up to the tops of the tallest limbs and draping them with its blossoms throughout June and July. Nearly three years ago we had the Laurels headed down to within six feet of the ground, leaving the straggling limbs of the Rose which were found amongst them, and since then it has grown and thriven amazingly, and now fairly threatens to gain the mastery. We had the curiosity to measure the plant the other day, and found it rather over seventy feet in circumference. Within this space the plant forms an irregular undulating mound, nearly in all parts so densely covered with Roses that not so much as a hand’s breadth is left vacant anywhere, and the Laurel branches are quite hidden, and in fact are now dying, smothered by the Rose. A finer example of luxuriant development we never saw. The plant has been a perfect sheet of bloom for a month or more, and there are thousands of buds yet to expand, and hundreds of bunches of buds have been cut just at the opening stage—when they are neater and whiter than a Gardenia—to send away. The tree has never received the least attention or assistance with the exception of the removal of the Laurel tops before mentioned, to let the light into it. It is growing in a tolerably deep and strong dry loam, and this, together with head room, seems to be all it requires. We record this example simply to show of what the Rose is capable without much cultural assistance. No doubt, in order to produce fine individual blooms certain restricted culture is necessary; but almost any variety of Rose will make a good–sized natural bush of itself, and as for the climbing or pillar Roses, the less they are touched the better. Of course we are not alluding to the Rosery proper, but of Roses in their more natural aspect, as when planted to hide fences, cover rockeries, or as striking objects on lawns. Except against walls, and in similar situations, there is no occasion to prune climbing Roses. Left to themselves, they make by far the grandest display, and to insure this it is only necessary to provide them with a good, deep, strong soil at the beginning, and to let them have a fair amount of light on all sides. Whether planting be carried out with the object above described, or for the purpose of covering naked tree stumps or limbs, or for draping any unsightly object whatever, liberal treatment in the first instance is the main thing. A good soil makes all the difference in time and in the permanent vigour of the tree, and were we desirous of having a great Rose tree (whether it be a common Ayrshire or a Gloire de Dijon, that we expected to produce thousands of blooms in a few years), we should, if the soil were not naturally strong and deep, provide a well–drained pit and fill it with two or three good cartloads of sound loam and manure; thus treated, the result is certain, provided an unrestricted growth be permitted.”

“We have,” says a correspondent, “a pretty extensive collection of Roses, but one of the most attractive specimens here is an old double white Ayrshire Rose, growing among a group of common Laurels in the shrubbery. We can’t tell how old the plant is, but it’s probably been in its current spot for about thirty years, doing its best to hold its own among the tall Laurels, occasionally sending out a shoot of white flowers on one side and then the other, and sometimes reaching up to the tops of the tallest branches, draping them with its blooms throughout June and July. Nearly three years ago, we had the Laurels trimmed down to within six feet of the ground, leaving the sprawling limbs of the Rose that were mixed in, and since then it has grown remarkably well and now threatens to take over. Recently, we measured the plant and found it to be over seventy feet in circumference. Within this area, the plant forms an uneven, wavy mound, so densely covered with Roses that not a hand’s breadth is left bare anywhere, and the Laurel branches are completely hidden and, in fact, are now dying, smothered by the Rose. We have never seen a finer example of lush growth. The plant has been a mass of blooms for over a month, with thousands of buds yet to open, and we’ve cut hundreds of bunches of buds when they’re at the neatest and whitest stage, just like a Gardenia, to send off. The tree has never received any attention or help, except for the removal of the Laurel tops to let in more light. It’s growing in a fairly deep and strong dry loam, and this, along with the headroom, seems to be all it needs. We mention this example simply to show what a Rose can achieve without much care. For sure, to produce fine individual blooms, some focused care is necessary; but nearly any variety of Rose can grow into a good-sized natural bush on its own, and as for climbing or pillar Roses, they are better off when left alone. Of course, we’re not talking about a formal Rosery, but rather Roses in a more natural setting, like when planted to hide fences, cover rockeries, or as eye-catching features on lawns. Except against walls and similar spots, there’s no need to prune climbing Roses. When left to their own devices, they create a much more impressive display, and to ensure this, all that’s needed is to provide them with good deep, strong soil initially, and to give them plenty of light from all sides. Whether planting is done for the reasons mentioned above, or to cover bare tree stumps or branches, or to disguise any unsightly object, generous treatment at the outset is key. Good soil makes all the difference over time and in the plant’s long-term vigor. If we wanted to have a great Rose tree (whether it’s a common Ayrshire or a Gloire de Dijon expected to produce thousands of blooms in a few years), we would, if the soil weren't naturally strong and deep, create a well-drained pit and fill it with two or three good cartloads of quality loam and manure; with that kind of treatment, success is guaranteed as long as unrestricted growth is allowed.”

White Climbing Rose scrambling over old Catalpa Tree.

White climbing rose climbing over an old catalpa tree.

Roses on grass are a pleasant feature of the wild garden. No matter what the habit of the rose, provided it be free and hardy, and growing on its own roots, planting on the grass will suit it well. So treated, the more vigorous climbers would form thickets of flowers, and graceful vigorous shoots. They will do on level grass, and be still more picturesque on banks or slopes.

Roses on grass are a lovely part of the wild garden. Regardless of the rose's growth habit, as long as it is robust and thriving on its own roots, planting it in the grass will work well. When taken care of this way, the stronger climbing roses will create clusters of blossoms and attractive, strong stems. They thrive on flat grass and look even more beautiful on embankments or slopes.

The following description, by Mr. E. Andre, of Roses in[86] the Riviera is suggestive of what we may obtain in our own climate later, by using the free kinds on their own roots, or on stocks equally hardy and not less vigorous, as in the case of the Banksian Roses mentioned below:—

The following description by Mr. E. Andre of Roses in [86] the Riviera hints at what we could achieve in our own climate later by using the free varieties on their own roots or on stocks that are just as hardy and vigorous, like the Banksian Roses mentioned below:—

On my last excursion from Marseilles to Genoa, I was greatly struck, as any one seeing them for the first time would be, with the magnificence of the Roses all along the Mediterranean shores. The Rose hedges, and the espalier Roses, especially, offer an indescribably gorgeous sight. Under the genial influence of the warm sun of Provence, from the Corniche to the extremity of the Riviera di Ponente, that is as far as the Gulf of Genoa, and protected to the north by the mountains, which gradually slope down to the sea–coast, Roses attain the size of Pæonies, and develop a depth and brilliancy of colour and fragrance of unusual intensity. But this is in part due to another cause, or rather two other causes, which lead to the same result, the main point being the choice of suitable subjects for stocks to graft upon. These stocks are, Rosa Banksiæ and Rosa indica major. The Banksian Rose presents three varieties, namely, White Banksian, producing a profusion of small white flowers, scarcely so large as those of the double–flowered Cherry, and of a most delicious fragrance; Yellow Banksian, with still larger clusters of small nankeen–yellow scentless flowers; Chinese Thorny Banksian, flowers less numerous and about three times as large as in the two preceding, and of the most grateful odour. These three forms attain an unsurpassable vigour in this region. In two years one plant will cover an immense wall, the gable of a house, or climb to the top of a tall tree, from which its branches hang like flowery cascades, embalming the air around with a rich perfume during the months of April and May. Now, if these be taken for stocks upon which to bud some of the choicer Teas, Noisettes, and Bourbons, the growth of the latter will be prodigious. The stock should be two years old, having well ripened, though still smooth, wood. In this way such varieties as Gloire de Dijon, Maréchal Niel, Lamarque, Safrano, Chromatella, Aimée Vibert, le Pactole, and all the Teas, attain such dimensions as to be no longer recognisable.

On my last trip from Marseilles to Genoa, I was really struck, like anyone seeing them for the first time would be, by the beauty of the roses all along the Mediterranean shores. The rose bushes and the trained roses, in particular, provide an unbelievably stunning sight. Under the warm sun of Provence, from the Corniche to the far end of the Riviera di Ponente, all the way to the Gulf of Genoa, and protected to the north by the mountains that gradually slope down to the coast, the roses grow to the size of peonies and develop a depth and brightness of color and fragrance that's unusually intense. But this is partly due to another factor, or rather two factors, that lead to the same result, with the key point being the choice of suitable types for grafting. The stocks used are Rosa Banksiæ and Rosa indica major. The Banksian Rose has three varieties: White Banksian, which produces a lot of small white flowers, barely as big as those of the double-flowered cherry, and smells delicious; Yellow Banksian, which has even larger clusters of small nankeen-yellow, scentless flowers; and Chinese Thorny Banksian, which has fewer flowers that are about three times as large as the previous two, with a lovely fragrance. These three forms achieve unbeatable vigor in this region. In two years, one plant can cover a massive wall, the gable of a house, or climb to the top of a tall tree, with its branches hanging down like flowery waterfalls, filling the air with a rich perfume during April and May. Now, if these are used as stocks to graft some of the finer Teas, Noisettes, and Bourbons, the growth of the latter will be phenomenal. The stock should be two years old, with well-ripened but still smooth wood. This way, varieties like Gloire de Dijon, Maréchal Niel, Lamarque, Safrano, Chromatella, Aimée Vibert, le Pactole, and all the Teas can grow to such sizes that they are unrecognizable.

Rosa indica major is almost naturalised throughout the whole of this region. It possesses the additional claim to favour of flowering nearly all the winter, forming beautiful hedges of dark green shining foliage, from which thousands of clusters of lovely flowers rise, of a[87] tender delicate transparent pink, or almost pure white, with a brighter tinge in the centre and at the tips of the petals. This Rose is an evergreen, and makes an excellent stock for grafting or budding. It is either planted in nursery beds, where it quickly throws up a stem suitable for standards in the same way as we employ the Dog Rose, or in hedges, and left to its naturally luxuriant growth to produce its own charming flowers in rich profusion, or rows of cuttings are put in where it is intended to leave them, and subsequently budded with some of the varieties of the diverse tribes we have named.

Rosa indica major is almost fully established across this region. It also stands out for blooming nearly all winter, creating stunning hedges of dark green, shiny leaves, from which thousands of beautiful flowers emerge, in a[87] delicate transparent pink or nearly pure white, with a brighter hue in the center and at the tips of the petals. This rose is an evergreen and makes an excellent base for grafting or budding. It can be planted in nursery beds, where it quickly develops a stem suitable for standards, much like we do with the Dog Rose, or it can be planted in hedges and allowed to grow naturally to produce its own beautiful flowers in abundance. Alternatively, cuttings can be placed where they are intended to stay and later budded with some of the varieties from the different groups we've mentioned.

Climbing Rose isolated on grass.

Climbing rose alone on grass.


CHAPTER XI.

WILD GARDENING ON WALLS OR RUINS.
ill88

WILD GARDENING ON WALLS OR RUINS.
ill88

Arenaria balearica, in a hole in wall at Great Tew.

Arenaria balearica, in a hole in the wall at Great Tew.

There are many hundred species of mountain and rock plants which will thrive much better on an old wall, a ruin, a sunk fence, a sloping bank of stone, with earth behind, than they do in the most carefully prepared border, and therefore their culture may be fittingly considered here, particularly, as once established in such positions they increase and take care of themselves unaided. Indeed, many an alpine plant which may have perished in its place in the garden, would thrive on any old wall near at hand, as, for example, the pretty Pyrenean Erinus, the silvery Saxifrages of the Alps, pinks like the Cheddar Pink, established on the walls[89] at Oxford, many Stonecrops and allied plants, the Aubrietia and Arabis.

There are hundreds of species of mountain and rock plants that thrive much better on an old wall, a ruin, a sunken fence, or a sloping stone bank with soil behind it than they do in a carefully prepared garden bed. Therefore, discussing their cultivation is appropriate here, especially since once they're established in these spots, they flourish and take care of themselves independently. In fact, many alpine plants that might fail in a garden can do well on any old wall close by, like the beautiful Pyrenean Erinus, the silvery Saxifrages from the Alps, and pinks such as the Cheddar Pink found on the walls at Oxford, along with many Stonecrops and related plants, Aubrietia, and Arabis.[89]

A most interesting example of wall gardening is shown on the opposite page. In the gardens at Great Tew, in Oxfordshire, this exquisite little alpine plant, which usually roots over the moist surface of stones, established itself high up on a wall in a small recess, where half a brick had been displaced. The illustration tells the rest. It is suggestive, as so many things are, of the numerous plants that may be grown on walls and such unpromising surfaces.

A very interesting example of wall gardening is shown on the opposite page. In the gardens at Great Tew, in Oxfordshire, this beautiful little alpine plant, which typically grows over the moist surface of stones, has taken root high up on a wall in a small recess, where half a brick was missing. The illustration speaks for itself. It's a reminder, like many things, of the many plants that can thrive on walls and other less-than-ideal surfaces.

Cheddar Pink, Saxifrage, and Ferns, on cottage wall at Mells.

Cheddar Pink, Saxifrage, and ferns on the cottage wall at Mells.

A mossy old wall, or an old ruin, would afford a position for many rock–plants which no specially prepared situation could rival; but even on well–preserved walls we can establish some little beauties, which year after year will abundantly repay for the slight trouble of planting or sowing them. Those who have observed how dwarf plants grow on the tops of mountains, or on elevated stony ground, must have seen in what unpromising positions many flourish in perfect health—fine tufts sometimes springing from an[90] almost imperceptible chink in an arid rock or boulder. They are often stunted and diminutive in such places, but always more long–lived than when grown vigorously upon the ground. Now, numbers of alpine plants perish if planted in the ordinary soil of our gardens, and many do so where much pains is taken to attend to their wants. This results from over–moisture at the root in winter, the plant being rendered more susceptible of injury by our moist green winters inducing it to make a lingering growth. But it is interesting and useful to know that, by placing many of these delicate plants where their roots can secure a comparatively dry and well–drained medium, they remain in perfect health. Many plants from latitudes a little farther south than our own, and from alpine regions, may find on walls, rocks, and ruins, that dwarf, ripe, sturdy growth, stony firmness of root medium, and dryness in winter, which go to form the very conditions that will grow them in a climate entirely different from their own.

A mossy old wall or a crumbling ruin provides a perfect spot for various rock plants that no specially prepared area could match. Even well-maintained walls can host some beautiful little plants that, year after year, reward the minimal effort it takes to plant or sow them. Those who’ve noticed how dwarf plants thrive on mountain tops or rocky high ground must have seen how many can thrive in seemingly unwelcoming places—like fine tufts sometimes emerging from a barely noticeable crack in a dry rock or boulder. While they may appear stunted and small in such environments, they tend to live longer than those grown vigorously in regular soil. Many alpine plants die if grown in the typical soil of our gardens, even with careful attention to their needs. This is often due to too much moisture at the roots in winter, which makes them more vulnerable since our damp winters encourage a prolonged growth. However, it’s fascinating and helpful to know that by placing many of these fragile plants in a drier, well-drained environment, their roots can thrive, keeping them healthy. Many plants from slightly warmer regions or alpine areas can find on walls, rocks, and ruins the compact, sturdy growth with firm roots and dry conditions in winter that allow them to flourish in a completely different climate.

In many parts of the country it may be said with truth that opportunities for this phase of gardening do not exist; but in various districts, such as the Wye and other valleys, there are miles of rock and rough wall–surface, where the scattering of a few pinches of Arabis, Aubrietia, Erinus, Acanthus, Saxifrage, Violas, Stonecrops, and Houseleeks, would give rise to a garden of rock blossoms that would need no care from the gardener. Growing such splendid alpine plants as the true Saxifraga longifolia of the Pyrenees on the straight surface of a wall is quite practicable. I have seen the rarest and largest of the silvery section grown well on the face of a dry wall: therefore there need be no doubt as to growing the more common and hardy kinds.

In many parts of the country, it can honestly be said that opportunities for this type of gardening are limited; however, in various areas like the Wye and other valleys, there are stretches of rock and rough wall surfaces where scattering a few pinches of Arabis, Aubrietia, Erinus, Acanthus, Saxifrage, Violas, Stonecrops, and Houseleeks would create a stunning garden of rock flowers that wouldn't require much maintenance from the gardener. Growing beautiful alpine plants like the true Saxifraga longifolia from the Pyrenees on a flat wall surface is entirely doable. I've seen the rarest and largest of the silvery section thrive on the face of a dry wall, so there's no doubt that you can grow the more common and hardy varieties as well.

A few seeds of the Cheddar Pink, for example, sown in a mossy or earthy chink, or even covered with a dust of fine soil, would soon take root, living for years in a dwarf and perfectly healthful state. The seedling roots vigorously into the chinks, and gets a hold which it rarely relaxes. A list of many of the plants which will grow on walls will be found among the selections near the end of the book.

A few seeds of the Cheddar Pink, for instance, planted in a mossy or earthy crevice, or even just covered with a light dusting of fine soil, would quickly take root and thrive for years in a small but perfectly healthy state. The seedling roots deeply into the crevices and gains a grip that it rarely lets go of. A list of many plants that can grow on walls will be found among the selections near the end of the book.

The Yellow Fumitory on wall (Corydalis lutea).

The Yellow Fumitory on the wall (Corydalis lutea).


Large Japan Sedum (S. spectabile) and Autumn Crocuses in the Wild Garden.

Large Japan Sedum (S. spectabile) and Autumn Crocuses in the Wild Garden.

CHAPTER XII.

SOME RESULTS.

RESULTS.

In addition to Longleat, and other cases previously mentioned, a few of the results obtained, where the system was tried, and so far as known to me, may not be without interest. How much a wild garden intelligently and tastefully carried out may effect for a country seat is fairly well shown in a garden in Oxfordshire. Here is one of the earliest, and probably one of the largest wild gardens existing, and which, visiting it on the 27th May, I found full of novel charms. No old–fashioned garden yields its beauty so early in the year, or over a more prolonged season, than the wild garden, as there is abundant evidence here; but our impressions shall be those of the day only. It may serve to throw light on the possibilities of garden[93] embellishment in one way at a season when there is a great blank in many gardens—the time of “bedding out.” The maker of this had no favourable or inviting site with which to deal; no great variety of surface, which makes attempts in this direction so much easier and happier; no variety of soil, which might enable plants of widely different natural habitats to be grown; only a neglected plantation, with rather a poor gravelly soil and a gentle slope in one part, and little variety of surface beyond a few gravel banks thrown up long before. The garden is, for the most part, arranged on each side of a Grass drive among rather open ground, few trees on the one hand and rather shady ground on the other. The most beautiful aspect at the end of May of a singularly ungenial spring, which had not allowed the Pæonies to unfold, was that of the German Irises, with their great Orchid–like blossoms seen everywhere through the wood, clear above the Grass and other herbage, stately and noble flowers that, like the Daffodils, fear no weather, yet with rich and delicate hues that could not be surpassed by tropical flowers. If this wild garden only should teach this effective way of using the various beautiful and vigorous kinds of Iris now included in our garden flora, it would do good service. The Irises are perfectly at home in the wood and among the Grass and wild flowers. By–and–by, when they go out of flower, they will not be in the way as in a “mixed border,” tempting one to remove them, but grow and rest quietly among the grass until the varied blossoms of another year again repay the trouble of substituting these noble hardy flowers for some of the familiar weeds and wild plants that inhabit our plantations.ill94

In addition to Longleat and other previously mentioned cases, some of the results from where the system was tested, as far as I know, might be interesting. The impact that a well-designed and thoughtfully executed wild garden can have on a country estate is clearly illustrated in a garden in Oxfordshire. This is one of the earliest and likely one of the largest wild gardens existing. When I visited on May 27th, I found it full of unique charms. No traditional garden showcases its beauty as early in the year or for as long a season as the wild garden does, and this is well evidenced here; however, our impressions will focus solely on the day. This may shed light on the potential for garden embellishment during a time when many gardens look bare—the season of “bedding out.” The creator of this garden had no advantageous or appealing site to work with; there was no significant variety of terrain, which makes these efforts much easier and more enjoyable, and no variety of soil to support plants from diverse natural habitats; just a neglected plantation with rather poor, gravelly soil and a gentle slope in one area, along with little surface variation beyond a few gravel banks that were piled up long ago. The garden is mostly arranged on either side of a grassy path among relatively open ground, with a few trees on one side and shadier areas on the other. The most stunning sight at the end of May, during a particularly unpleasant spring that had not allowed the Peonies to bloom, was the German Irises, with their large, orchid-like blossoms visible throughout the wood, standing tall above the grass and other foliage—majestic flowers that, like the Daffodils, withstand any weather, yet boast rich and delicate colors that rival those of tropical flowers. If this wild garden could demonstrate an effective way to incorporate the beautiful and vigorous Iris varieties now present in our garden flora, it would serve a great purpose. The Irises thrive beautifully in the woods and among the grass and wildflowers. Eventually, when they finish blooming, they won't be in the way like in a “mixed border,” where there’s the temptation to remove them; instead, they will grow and rest quietly among the grass until the diverse blossoms of the following year reward the effort of replacing these noble, hardy flowers for some of the common weeds and wild plants that occupy our plantations.

Crane’s Bill wild, in grass.

Crane's Bill wildflower, in grass.

In the wild garden the fairest of our own wild flowers may be happily associated with their relatives from other countries. Here the sturdy Bell–flowered Scilla (S. campanulata) grows wild with our own Bluebell (S. nutans); the white and pink forms also of the last–named look beautiful here associated with the common well–known form. The earlier Scillas are of course past; they are admirably suited for the wild garden, especially S. bifolia, which thrives freely in woods. The Lily of the Valley did not inhabit the wood before; therefore it was pleasant to thin out some of its over–matted tufts and carry them to the wild garden, where they are now in fullest beauty. It is associated with its tall and stately relation the Solomon’s Seal. The Solomon’s Seal, which is usually effective when issuing forth from fringes of shrubberies, is here best arching high over the Woodruff and other sweet woodland flowers, among which it seems a giant, with every leaf, and stem, and blossom lines of beauty. The additional vigour and beauty shown by this plant when in rich soil well repays one for selecting suitable spots for it. The greater Celandine (Chelidonium majus) and its double form are very pretty here with their tufts of golden flowers; they grow freely and take all needful care of themselves. The same may be said of the Honesty, the common forms of Columbine, and Allium Moly, an old–fashioned plant,[95] and one of the many subjects at home in the wild garden, and which are better left out of the garden proper. The myriads of Crocus leaves dying off without the indignity of being tied into bundles as is common in gardens, the dense growth of Aconite and Snowdrop leaves, of coloured and common Primroses and Cowslips, suggest the beauty of this wild garden in spring. The yet unfolded buds on the many tufts and groups of the numerous herbaceous Pæonies, promise noble effects early in June; so do the tufts of the splendid Eastern Poppy (Papaver orientale) and the Lilies, and Sweet Williams, and Adam’s Needles, and many other subjects, that will show their blossoms above or among the summer Grass in due time. Among the best of the Borageworts here at present, are the Caucasian Comfrey (Symphytum caucasicum), an admirable wood or copse plant, and red–purple or Bohemian Comfrey (S. bohemicum), which is very handsome here. And what lovely effects from the Forget–me–nots—the wood Forget–me–not, and the Early Forget–me–not (M. dissitiflora) are here! where their soft little clouds of blue in the Grass are much prettier than tufts of the same kind surrounded by the brown earth in a prim border. Here the pushing of the delicate Grass blades through the blue mass and the indefinite way in which the fringes of the tufts mingle with the surrounding vegetation are very beautiful.

In the wild garden, the prettiest of our native wildflowers can happily mix with their relatives from other countries. Here, the sturdy Bell-flowered Scilla (S. campanulata) grows alongside our own Bluebell (S. nutans); the white and pink versions of the latter look beautiful when paired with the common variety. The earlier Scillas have, of course, finished blooming; they are perfectly suited for the wild garden, especially S. bifolia, which thrives abundantly in woods. The Lily of the Valley didn’t grow in the woods before; so it was nice to thin out some of its overly dense clumps and bring them to the wild garden, where they are now in full bloom. It shares space with its tall and elegant cousin, Solomon’s Seal. The Solomon’s Seal, which usually looks stunning when emerging from the edges of shrubbery, here elegantly arches over the Woodruff and other lovely woodland flowers, where it seems like a giant, highlighting the beauty of every leaf, stem, and blossom. The extra vibrancy and beauty displayed by this plant in rich soil makes it worth selecting the right spots for it. The Greater Celandine (Chelidonium majus) and its double form are very pretty here with their clusters of golden flowers; they thrive freely and take care of themselves. The same goes for Honesty, common forms of Columbine, and Allium Moly, an old-fashioned plant that feels right at home in the wild garden, better left out of the main garden. The countless Crocus leaves fading away without the embarrassment of being tied into bundles, as is common in gardens; the dense growth of Aconite and Snowdrop leaves, along with colorful and common Primroses and Cowslips, all suggest the beauty of this wild garden in spring. The still unopened buds on the tufts and clusters of the many herbaceous Peonies promise stunning displays early in June; so do the clusters of the magnificent Eastern Poppy (Papaver orientale), Lilies, Sweet Williams, Adam’s Needles, and many other plants that will eventually show their blossoms above or among the summer grass. Among the best of the Borageworts currently here are the Caucasian Comfrey (Symphytum caucasicum), a fantastic plant for woods or thickets, and the red-purple Bohemian Comfrey (S. bohemicum), which looks very handsome here. And what lovely effects from the Forget-me-nots—the wood Forget-me-not and the Early Forget-me-not (M. dissitiflora) are wonderful here! Their soft little clouds of blue in the grass are much prettier than similar clumps surrounded by brown earth in a neatly arranged border. Here, the delicate grass blades pushing through the blue mass and the indistinct way in which the fringes of the clumps blend with the surrounding vegetation are truly beautiful.

Large–leafed Saxifrage in the Wild Garden.

Large-leaf Saxifrage in the Wild Garden.

The only noticeable variation of surface is that of some gravel banks, which are properly covered with Stonecrops, Saxifrages, and the like, which would, as a rule, have a poor chance in the Grass. Surfaces that naturally support a very sparse and dwarf vegetation are valuable in a garden, as they permit of the culture of a series of free–growing alpine and[96] rock plants that would not be able to hold their own among Grass and ordinary weeds and wild flowers. One of the happiest features of this wild garden results from the way in which dead trees have been adorned. Once dead, some of the smaller branches are lopped off, and one or more climbers planted at the base of the tree. Here a Clematis, a climbing Rose, a new kind of Ivy, a wild Vine, or a Virginian Creeper, have all they require, a firm support on which they may arrange themselves after their own natural habit, without being mutilated, or without trouble to the planter, and fresh ground free to themselves. What an admirable way, too, of growing the many and varied species of Clematis! as beautiful as varieties with flowers as large as saucers. Even when an old tree falls and tosses up a mass of soil and roots the wild gardener is ready with some subject from his mixed border to adorn the projection, and he may allow some choice Bramble or wild Vine to scramble over the prostrate stem. A collection of Ivies grown on old tree–stems would be much more satisfactory than on a wall, and not liable to robe each other at the roots, and interfere with each other in the air. Ferns are at home in the wild garden; all the strong hardy kinds may be grown in it, and look better in it among the flowers than in the “hardy Fernery” properly so called. Even more graceful than the Ferns, and in some cases more useful, because they send up their plume–like leaves very early in the year, are the giant Fennels (Ferula), which grow well here, and hold their own easily among the strongest plants. The common Fennel is also here, but it seeds so freely that it becomes a troublesome weed, and shows a tendency to overrun plants of greater[97] value. This reminds us of certain subjects that should be introduced with caution into all but the remotest parts of the wild garden. Such plants as Heracleum, Willow Herb, and many others, that overcome all obstacles, and not only win but destroy all their fellows in the struggle for life, should only be planted in outlying positions, islands, hedges, small bits of isolated wood or copse, where their effects might be visible for a season, and where they might ramble without destroying. In short, they never should be planted where it is desired to encourage a variety of beautiful subjects. Rabbits—dreaded vermin to the wild gardener—are kept out here effectually by means of wire fencing. The presence of these pests prevents all success in the wild garden. The encouragement of creatures that feed on slugs is desirable, as these are the most potent cause of mischief to hardy flowers.[98] To succeed with the wild garden, one should have a good collection of hardy flowers from which it can be supplied. Here one has been formed, consisting of about 1100 species, mostly arranged in borders. From these, from time to time, over–vigorous and over–abundant kinds may be taken to the wilderness. In a large collection one frequently finds species most suited for full liberty in woods. The many subjects good in all positions, may increase in these borders till plentiful enough for planting out in some quantity in the wild garden. The wild garden here has been wholly formed by the owner, who planted with his own hands the various subjects that now adorn it throughout the year. It has been done within four or five years, and therefore many of the climbers have not as yet attained full growth.

The only noticeable difference in the landscape is some gravel banks, which are nicely covered with Stonecrops, Saxifrages, and similar plants that typically wouldn’t thrive in the Grass. Areas that naturally have very sparse and small vegetation are valuable in a garden because they allow for the growth of a range of free–growing alpine and rock plants that wouldn’t do well among Grass and regular weeds and wildflowers. One of the most delightful aspects of this wild garden is how dead trees have been enhanced. Once they’re dead, some smaller branches are trimmed off, and one or more climbing plants are planted at the tree’s base. Here, a Clematis, a climbing Rose, a new type of Ivy, a wild Vine, or a Virginian Creeper all have what they need: a solid support to grow on naturally, without being harmed or causing any trouble for the planter, plus fresh soil to themselves. It’s a remarkable way to grow various species of Clematis that are as beautiful as those with flowers as big as saucers. Even when an old tree falls and shifts a mass of soil and roots, the wild gardener is ready with some plants from his mixed border to beautify the area, and he can let a choice Bramble or wild Vine climb over the fallen trunk. A collection of Ivies growing on old tree trunks would be much more satisfying than on a wall and wouldn’t compete with each other at the roots or in the air. Ferns thrive in the wild garden; all the strong, hardy types can be grown here and look better among the flowers than in the so-called “hardy Fernery.” Even more elegant than the Ferns, and sometimes more useful because they send up their plume-like leaves early in the year, are the giant Fennels (Ferula), which grow well here and easily hold their own among the strongest plants. The common Fennel is also present, but it seeds so freely that it becomes a troublesome weed and tends to overrun more valuable plants. This brings to mind certain plants that should be introduced cautiously, especially in areas other than the most remote parts of the wild garden. Species like Heracleum, Willow Herb, and others that can overcome all obstacles and destroy their peers in the fight for survival should only be planted in outlying areas, islands, hedges, or small isolated woods, where their impact can be appreciated for a season and where they can spread without causing destruction. In short, these should never be planted where there's a desire to encourage a variety of beautiful plants. Rabbits—feared pests for the wild gardener—are effectively kept out by wire fencing. Their presence can hinder success in the wild garden. Encouraging creatures that eat slugs is beneficial, as slugs are a major cause of damage to hardy flowers. To succeed with the wild garden, it’s essential to have a good collection of hardy flowers to supply it. Here, a collection has been created, consisting of about 1,100 species, mostly arranged in borders. From these, over–vigorous and overly abundant kinds can be occasionally taken to the wilderness. In a large collection, you often find species best suited for full liberty in woods. Many subjects that thrive in all positions can multiply in these borders until there are enough for substantial planting in the wild garden. This wild garden has been entirely created by the owner, who planted all the various subjects that now beautify it year-round with his own hands. This was done within four to five years, so many of the climbers have not yet reached their full size.

Tew Park will long be interesting, from the fact that it was there J. C. Loudon practised agriculture before he began writing the works which were such a marked addition to the horticultural literature of England. The Grove there is a plantation of fine trees, bordering a wide sweep of grass, which varies in width. This grove, unlike much of the rest of the ground, does not vary in surface, or but very little, so that one of the greatest aids is absent. Originally this now pleasant grove was a dense wood, with Gout–weed mainly on the ground, and troublesome flies in the air. A few years ago the formation of a wild garden was determined upon, and the first operation was the thinning of the wood; light and moving air were let into it, and weak or overcrowded trees removed. This, so far, was a gain, quite apart from the flowers that were in good time to replace the few common weeds that occupied the ground. Of these the unattractive Gout–weed was the most abundant, and the first thing to do was to dig it up. It was found that by deeply digging the ground, and sowing the wood Forget–me–not in its place, this weed disappeared. Who would not exchange foul weeds for Lilies of the Valley and Wood Forget–me–nots! The effect of broad sheets of this Wood Forget–me–not (Myosotis sylvatica) beyond, and seen above the long waving Grass gradually receding under the trees, was very beautiful; now (June) its beauty is not so marked as earlier, when the colour was fuller, from the plants being more compact; but one charm of the wild garden is that the very changes of plants from what may be thought their most perfect state, may be in itself the source of a new pleasure instead of a warning, such as so often occurs in the garden, that we must cut them down or replace them.

Tew Park will remain interesting, especially because it’s where J. C. Loudon practiced agriculture before he started writing works that greatly contributed to England’s horticultural literature. The Grove there is a collection of fine trees surrounding a wide area of grass that varies in width. Unlike much of the rest of the land, this grove is mostly flat, so one of the main advantages is missing. Originally, this now pleasant grove was a dense woodland, primarily filled with Gout-weed on the ground and annoying flies in the air. A few years ago, they decided to create a wild garden, and the first step was to thin out the wood; light and airflow were allowed in, and weak or overcrowded trees were removed. This, so far, has been an improvement, apart from the flowers that would eventually replace the few common weeds in the area. The unattractive Gout-weed was the most prevalent of these, and the first task was to dig it up. It was discovered that by deeply turning over the soil and planting Forget-me-nots in its place, the weed disappeared. Who wouldn’t trade ugly weeds for Lilies of the Valley and Wood Forget-me-nots? The sight of broad patches of Wood Forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica) in the distance, rising above the long, swaying grass gradually receding under the trees, was very beautiful; now (June) its beauty isn’t as striking as before, when the color was richer due to the plants being more compact. However, one charm of the wild garden is that the changes in plants from what might be considered their most perfect state can actually bring about a new kind of pleasure instead of the usual stress, like in a traditional garden, where we feel we must cut them back or replace them.

Tiger Lilies in Wild Garden at Great Tew.

Tiger Lilies in Wild Garden at Great Tew.

Not to mow is almost a necessity in the wild garden: considering that there is frequently in large gardens much more mown surface than is necessary, many will not regret this need. Here the Grass is designedly left unmown in many places, and thereby much labour is saved. Of course it may be cut when ripe, and most of the spring flowers have past and their leaves are out of danger; even in parts where no flowers are planted the Grass is left till long enough to cut as meadow. Except where actually required as a carpet, Grass may often be allowed to grow even in the pleasure ground; quite as good an effect is afforded by the unmown as the mown Grass—indeed, better when the long Grass is full of flowers. Three–fourths of the most lovely flowers of cold and temperate regions are companions of the Grass—like Grasses in hardiness, like Grasses in summer life and winter rest, like them[100] even in stature. Whatever plants may seem best to associate with in gardens, an immense number—more than two thousand species of those now cultivated—would thrive to perfection among our meadow Grasses, as they do on the Grassy breast of the mountain in many lands. Some, like the tall Irises or Columbines, will show their heads clear above the delicate bloom of the Grass; others, like the Cerastiums, will open their cups below it, in this way multiplying the variety of effects that may be obtained. The varieties of Columbine in the Grass were perhaps the prettiest flowers at the time of my visit. The white, purplish, and delicately–variegated forms of this charming old plant, just seen above the tops of the long Grass, growing singly, in little groups, or in spreading colonies, were sufficient in themselves to form a wild garden for June. Established among the Grass, they will henceforward, like it, take care of themselves. The rosy, heart–shaped blooms of the Dielytra spectabilis are recognised at some distance through the Grass, and, so grown, furnish a bright and peculiarly pretty effect. Tree Pæonies succeed admirably, and their great heads of flower quite light up this charming wilderness. Plants of the Goat’s Beard Spiræa (S. Aruncus) are very stately and graceful, even now, before their flowering, being quite 6 ft. high. In a few weeks, when the numerous flowers are open, they will present quite another aspect. In the wild garden, apart from the naturalisation of free–growing exotics, the establishment of rare British flowers is one of the most interesting occupations; and here, under a Pine tree, the modest, trailing Linnæa borealis of the northern Fir–woods is beginning to spread. The Foxglove was not originally found in the[101] neighbourhood; now the ordinary kind and the various other forms of this fine wild flower adorn the woods. In this way also the Lily of the Valley has been introduced and is spreading rapidly. Many climbing Roses and various other climbers have been planted at the bases of trees and stumps, but, though thriving, the plantation is as yet too young to show the good effect that these will eventually produce. There is no finer picture at present to be seen in gardens than a free–growing flowering creeper, enjoying its own wild way over an old tree or stump, and sending down a rain of flower–laden shoots. A Clematis montana here, originally trained on a wall, sent up some of its shoots through a tree close at hand, where, fortunately, they have been allowed to remain, and now the long shoots hang from the tree full of flowers. The large plumes of the nobler hardy Ferns are seen here and[102] there through the trees and Grass, and well they look—better here among the Grass and flowers, partially shaded by trees, than in the hardy Fernery, which is so often a failure, and when a success, often “too much of a muchness,” so to say. The wild garden of the future will be also the true home of all the more important hardy Ferns. The rivals of the Ferns in beauty of foliage, the Ferulas, and various other umbelliferous plants with beautifully cut foliage, have also their homes in the wild garden. The Welsh Poppy thrives, as might be expected, admirably in the grove, its rich yellow cups just showing above the meadow.

Not mowing the lawn is almost a must in a wild garden: considering that in large gardens, there’s often much more mowed area than necessary, many people won’t mind this requirement. Here, the grass is intentionally left unmown in various spots, saving a lot of work. Of course, it can be cut when it’s ready, after most spring flowers have faded and their leaves are safe; even in areas without flowers, the grass is allowed to grow until it’s tall enough to be harvested like hay. Unless grass is needed as a lawn, it can often be allowed to grow even in the garden; the unmown grass can look just as good as the mown grass—in fact, it looks even better when the long grass is filled with flowers. Three-fourths of the most beautiful flowers from cold and temperate regions grow well alongside grass—hardy like grass, thriving in summer and resting in winter, similar in height too. Regardless of what plants may seem best suited for gardens, an immense variety—over two thousand species currently cultivated—would flourish among our meadow grasses, just as they do on grassy mountain slopes in many places. Some, like tall Irises or Columbines, stand tall above the delicate grass blooms; others, like Cerastiums, bloom beneath it, adding a rich variety of effects. The different types of Columbine in the grass were some of the prettiest flowers I saw during my visit. The white, purple, and delicately variegated forms of this lovely old plant, peeking just above the tops of the long grass, whether growing alone, in small groups, or in spreading colonies, were enough to create a wild garden for June. Once established among the grass, they will take care of themselves. The rosy, heart-shaped blooms of Dielytra spectabilis can be spotted from afar in the grass, creating a bright and uniquely lovely display. Tree Peonies thrive beautifully, their large blossoms really brightening up this enchanting wild area. Goat's Beard (Spiræa Aruncus) plants are tall and elegant, reaching about 6 feet even before they bloom. In a few weeks, when all the flowers are open, they will look completely different. In a wild garden, apart from the naturalization of free-growing exotic plants, establishing rare British flowers is one of the most fascinating activities; here, beneath a pine tree, the humble, trailing Linnæa borealis from the northern fir woods is starting to spread. The Foxglove wasn’t originally found in the area; now the common type and various forms of this beautiful wildflower brighten the woods. Similarly, the Lily of the Valley has been introduced and is spreading quickly. Many climbing roses and other types of climbers have been planted at the bases of trees and stumps, but although they are thriving, the area is still too young to show the lovely effect these plants will eventually create. There's no better sight in gardens right now than a freely growing flowering vine, happily winding over an old tree or stump and showering down with flower-filled shoots. A Clematis montana, initially trained on a wall, has sent some of its shoots through a nearby tree, which luckily, have been allowed to remain, and now the long shoots hang down from the tree, full of flowers. The large plumes of noble hardy ferns can be seen here and there among the trees and grass, and they look great—better here among the grass and flowers, partially shaded by trees, than in a hardy fernery, which often fails, and when it succeeds, can often feel “too much.” The wild garden of the future will also be the true home for all the important hardy ferns. The rivals of ferns in beauty, such as Ferulas and other umbelliferous plants with finely cut foliage, also find their place in the wild garden. The Welsh Poppy thrives beautifully in the grove, with its bright yellow cups just peeking above the meadow.

Large–flowered Clematis.

Large-flowered Clematis.

In another part of the grounds there is a raised walk quite away from trees, open and dry, with sloping banks on each side. This may be called a sun–walk, and here quite a different type of vegetation is grown; Scotch Roses, Brooms, Sun Roses, Rock Roses, etc. It is quite recently formed, and will probably soon accommodate a more numerous and interesting flora. Such an open sunny walk, with dry banks near, is a capital position in which to carry out various phases of the wild garden. Peculiarly suitable, however, in such a position is a good illustration of the vegetation of the hot, rocky, and gravelly hill–sides of the Mediterranean region, and this is quite easily represented, for the various leguminous plants and dwarf Pea–flowered shrubs, such as the Spanish Broom, many of the beautiful Rock Roses (Cistus), the Sun Roses (Helianthemum), and the Lavenders, will, with a host of companions, for the most part thrive quite as well on a sunny sandy bank in England as in Italy or Greece. In the wild garden it is easy to arrange aspects of vegetation having a geographical interest, and a portion of such a sunny bank as[103] I allude to might be worthily furnished with the various aromatic plants (nearly all hardy) which one meets with on the wild hill–sides of Southern France, and which include Thyme, Balm, Mint, Rosemary, Lavender, and various other old garden favourites.

In another area of the grounds, there’s a raised path that is far from the trees, open and dry, with sloping banks on either side. This can be called a sun-path, and here you’ll find a different type of vegetation; Scotch Roses, Brooms, Sun Roses, Rock Roses, and so on. It’s been created recently and will likely soon support a larger and more interesting variety of plants. An open, sunny path with dry banks nearby is a great place to explore different aspects of a wild garden. Particularly ideal for this setting is a good example of the vegetation found on the hot, rocky, and gravelly hillsides of the Mediterranean, which can be easily represented. Many legumes and dwarf Pea-flowered shrubs, like Spanish Broom, several beautiful Rock Roses (Cistus), Sun Roses (Helianthemum), and Lavenders, will thrive just as well on a sunny sandy bank in England as they do in Italy or Greece. In the wild garden, it’s simple to arrange types of vegetation that tell a geographical story, and a part of that sunny bank I mentioned could be well-planted with various aromatic plants (almost all hardy) that you would find on the wild hillsides of Southern France, including Thyme, Balm, Mint, Rosemary, Lavender, and several other classic garden favorites.

True taste in the garden is unhappily much rarer than many people suppose. No amount of expense, rich collections, good cultivation, large gardens, and plenty of glass, will suffice; all these and much more it is not difficult to see, but a few acres of garden showing a real love of the beautiful in Nature, as it can be illustrated in gardens, is rare, and when it is seen it is often rather the result of accident than design. This is partly owing to the fact that the kind of knowledge one wants in order to form a really beautiful garden is very uncommon. No man can do so with few materials. It is necessary to have some knowledge of the enormous wealth of beauty which the world contains for the adornment of gardens; and yet this knowledge must not have a leaning, or but very partially, towards the Dryasdust character. The disposition to “dry” and name everything, to concern oneself entirely with nomenclature and classification, is not in accordance with a true gardening spirit—it is the life we want. The garden of the late Mr. Hewittson, at Weybridge, contained some of the most delightful bits of garden scenery which I have ever seen. Below the house, on the slope over the water of Oatlands Park, and below the usual lawn beds, trees, etc., there is a piece of heathy ground which, when we saw it, was charming beyond any power of the pencil to show. The ground was partially clad with common Heaths with little irregular green paths through them, and abundantly[104] naturalised in the warm sandy soil were the Sun Roses, which are shown in the foreground of the plate. Here and there among the Heaths, creeping about in a perfectly natural–looking fashion, too, was the Gentian blue Gromwell (Lithospermum prostratum), with other hardy plants suited to the situation. Among these naturalised groups were the large Evening Primroses and Alstrœmeria aurea, the whole being well relieved by bold bushes of flowering shrubs, so tastefully grouped and arranged as not to show a trace of formality. Such plants as these are not set out singly and without preparation, but carefully planted in beds of such naturally irregular outline, that when the plants become established they seem native children of the soil, as much as the Bracken and Heath around. It is remarkable how all this is done without in the least detracting from the most perfect order and keeping. Closely–shaven glades and wide Grass belts wind about among such objects, while all trees that require special care and attention show by their health and size that they find all they require in this beautiful garden. It is more free from needless or offensive geometrical–twirling, barren expanse of gravelled surface, and all kinds of puerilities—old–fashioned and new–fangled—than any garden I have seen for years.

True taste in the garden is unfortunately much rarer than many people think. No amount of spending, impressive collections, good cultivation, huge gardens, or lots of glass will do the trick; all of these things and more are easy to observe, but a few acres of garden that truly reflect a love for the beauty of Nature, as it can be expressed in gardens, is rare. When it happens, it's often more a result of chance than careful planning. This is partly because the kind of knowledge needed to create a genuinely beautiful garden is quite uncommon. A single person cannot achieve this with just a few materials. It's essential to have some understanding of the vast beauty the world offers for garden decoration; however, this knowledge shouldn't lean extensively towards a dry, scholarly approach. The tendency to "dry" and label everything, focusing entirely on names and classifications, doesn't align with a true gardening spirit—it’s the life we seek. The garden of the late Mr. Hewittson in Weybridge included some of the most delightful garden scenes I've ever seen. Below the house, on the slope overlooking Oatlands Park's water, and beneath the usual lawn beds, trees, etc., there was a patch of heathy ground that, when we saw it, was more charming than any pencil could capture. The area was partially covered with common Heaths with little winding green paths through them, and naturally thriving in the warm sandy soil were the Sun Roses, depicted in the foreground of the illustration. Scattered among the Heaths, creeping around in a perfectly natural-looking manner, was the Gentian blue Gromwell (Lithospermum prostratum), along with other hardy plants suited to the spot. Among these naturalized clusters were large Evening Primroses and Alstrœmeria aurea, all beautifully accompanied by bold bushes of flowering shrubs so tastefully arranged that they exhibited no trace of formality. Such plants are not placed individually and without thought, but are carefully planted in beds with naturally irregular shapes, allowing the plants to seem like native inhabitants of the soil, just as much as the Bracken and Heath around them. It's impressive how all this is achieved without taking away from the perfect order and maintenance. Neatly trimmed glades and wide grassy areas weave around these elements, while all trees that need special care show their health and size, indicating that they find everything they need in this lovely garden. It is freer from unnecessary or jarring geometric layouts, barren stretches of gravel, and all kinds of trivialities—both old-fashioned and modern—than any garden I've seen in years.

The following, from a correspondent, shows what may be done with few advantages as to space or situation:—

The following, from a correspondent, shows what can be achieved with limited space or location:—

We have a dell with a small stream of spring water running through it. When I first came to Brockhurst I found this stream carried underground by a tile culvert, and the valley sides covered with Rhododendrons, the soil between carefully raked and kept free from weeds, so that it was only during springtime that flowers relieved the sombre effect of this primness. After five years this has all been changed into what I think you would call a wild garden, and we have cheerfulness and beauty all the year round.

We have a valley with a small stream of spring water running through it. When I first arrived at Brockhurst, I discovered this stream was carried underground by a tile culvert, and the valley sides were covered with Rhododendrons, with the soil between carefully raked and kept free from weeds. So, it was only during spring that flowers broke up the serious vibe of this neatness. After five years, all of this has turned into what I think you'd call a wild garden, and we have brightness and beauty all year round.

Sun Roses (Cistus) and other exotic hardy plants among heather, on sandy slope.

Sun Roses (Cistus) and other tough exotic plants among heather, on a sandy slope.

Wood and herbaceous Meadow–sweets grouped together in Mr. Hewittson’s garden.

Wood and herbaceous Meadow-sweets clustered together in Mr. Hewittson’s garden.

In the first place the brooklet was brought to the surface, and its course fringed with marsh plants, such as Marsh Marigolds, Forget–me–nots, Celandines, Irises, Primroses, and Ranunculuses, together with Osmundas, Hart’s–tongues, and other Ferns. Many large–growing Carexes and ornamental Rushes are also here. Little flats were formed and filled with peat, in which Cypripediums, Trilliums, Orchises, Solomon’s Seal, and many rare bog plants find a home. In the valley we have planted bulbs by thousands—Crocuses, Snowdrops, Daffodils, Narcissi, etc. The Rhododendrons were thinned and interspersed with Azaleas, Aucubas, and other handsome–foliaged shrubs, to give brightness to the spring flowering, and rich colour to the foliage in autumn. In the spaces between we introduced wild Hyacinths everywhere, and[106] in patches amongst these the Red Campion, together with every other pretty wild flower we could obtain—Forget–me–nots, Globe–flowers, Columbines, Anemones, Primroses, Cowslips, Polyanthuses, Campanulas, Golden Rods, etc. All the bulbs which have bloomed in the greenhouses are planted out in these spaces, so that there are now large clumps of choice sorts of Crocus, Tulip, Narcissus, and Hyacinth. We have also planted bulbs very extensively, and as they have been allowed to grow on undisturbed we have now large patches of Daffodils, Narcissi, and other spring flowers in great beauty and exuberance. When we trim the garden all the spare plants are brought here, where they form a reserve, and it is thus gradually getting stocked, and all the bare ground covered with foliage and flowers. Lastly, for autumn blooming we raised large quantities of Foxgloves in every colour, and the larger Campanulas, and these were pricked out everywhere, so that we have a glorious show of Foxglove flowers to close the year worth all the trouble. A wild garden of this sort is a very useful reserve ground, where many a plant survives after it has been lost in the borders. Such spare seedlings as the Aquilegias, Campanulas, Primulas, Trolliuses, and other hardy plants can here find space until wanted elsewhere, and one can frequently find blooms for bouquets in the dell when the garden flowers are over. The Lily of the Valley and Sweet Violet also flourish here, creeping over heaps of stones, and flower more freely than they do in more open situations. Visitors often say that the dell beats all the rest of the garden for beauty, and it certainly gives less trouble in the attainment.

First, the brook was uncovered, with its banks lined with marsh plants like Marsh Marigolds, Forget-me-nots, Celandines, Irises, Primroses, and Ranunculuses, along with Osmundas, Hart’s-tongues, and various Ferns. There are also many tall Carexes and attractive Rushes. Small flats were created and filled with peat, where Cypripediums, Trilliums, Orchises, Solomon’s Seal, and numerous rare bog plants thrive. In the valley, we planted thousands of bulbs—Crocuses, Snowdrops, Daffodils, Narcissi, and more. The Rhododendrons were pruned and mixed with Azaleas, Aucubas, and other ornamental shrubs to add brightness to the spring blooms and vibrant color to the fall foliage. In between, we scattered wild Hyacinths everywhere, and in patches among these, the Red Campion, along with every lovely wildflower we could find—Forget-me-nots, Globe-flowers, Columbines, Anemones, Primroses, Cowslips, Polyanthuses, Campanulas, Golden Rods, etc. All the bulbs that have bloomed in the greenhouses are now planted in these areas, resulting in large clumps of various Crocus, Tulip, Narcissus, and Hyacinth. We have also extensively planted bulbs, and since they have been allowed to grow undisturbed, we now enjoy large patches of Daffodils, Narcissi, and other spring flowers in full beauty. When we tidy the garden, all the extra plants are brought here, creating a reserve that is gradually being filled, covering all the bare ground with foliage and flowers. Lastly, for autumn blooms, we grew a large number of Foxgloves in every color, along with the larger Campanulas, and these were planted everywhere, resulting in a stunning display of Foxglove flowers that beautifully wraps up the year. Such a wild garden serves as a valuable reserve where many plants thrive after being lost in the borders. Spare seedlings like the Aquilegias, Campanulas, Primulas, Trolliuses, and other hardy plants can find space here until needed elsewhere, and you can often find blooms for bouquets in the dell when the garden flowers have faded. The Lily of the Valley and Sweet Violet also thrive here, spreading over piles of stones, blooming more freely than in more exposed spots. Visitors often say that the dell surpasses the rest of the garden in beauty, and it certainly requires less effort to maintain.

Brockhurst, Didsbury. In Garden.

Brockhurst, Didsbury. In *Garden*.

Wm. Brockbank.

Wm. Brockbank.

THE WILD GARDEN IN AMERICA.[2]

Probably many of your readers will ask, “What is a wild garden?” When I came to London, about fifteen years ago, “flower–gardening” had but one mode of expression only, viz. “bedding out,” and that in its harshest form—ribbons, borders, and solid masses of flowers of one colour and one height. The old hardy flowers had been completely swept away; the various and once popular race of so–called florist’s flowers were rarely or never seen. As a consequence, gardens were indescribably monotonous to any person with the faintest notion of the inexhaustible charms of the plant world. This kind of flower–gardening has the same relation to true art in a garden which the daubs of colour[107] on an Indian’s blanket have to the best pictures. In fighting, some years later, in the various journals open to me, the battle of nature and variety against this saddening and blank monotony, I was occasionally met by a ridicule of the old–fashioned mixed border which the bedding plants had supplanted. Now, a well–arranged and varied mixed border may be made one of the most beautiful of gardens; but to so form it requires some knowledge of plants, as well as good taste. Nevertheless, the objection was just as concerned the great majority of mixed borders; they were ragged, unmeaning, and even monotonous.

Probably many of your readers will ask, “What is a wild garden?” When I moved to London about fifteen years ago, “flower gardening” only had one style, which was “bedding out,” and it was in its harshest form—ribbons, borders, and solid blocks of flowers all the same color and height. The classic hardy flowers had completely vanished; the diverse and once-popular types of florist’s flowers were rarely, if ever, seen. As a result, gardens were incredibly monotonous to anyone who had even a slight appreciation for the endless beauty of the plant world. This style of flower gardening is to true garden art what random splashes of color[107] on an Indian’s blanket are to fine art. In later years, while writing in various journals, I fought against the depressing and dull monotony of nature and variety versus this style and sometimes faced ridicule for the old-fashioned mixed border that the bedding plants replaced. However, a well-designed and diverse mixed border can be one of the most stunning parts of a garden, but creating it requires some plant knowledge and a good sense of taste. Still, the criticism was valid regarding the vast majority of mixed borders; they were often messy, meaningless, and just as dull.

I next began to consider the various ways in which hardy plants might be grown wholly apart from either way (the bedding plants or that of the mixed border), and the wild garden, or garden formed in the wilderness, grove, shrubbery, copse, or rougher parts of the pleasure garden, was a pet idea which I afterwards threw into the form of a book with this name. In nearly all our gardens we have a great deal of surface wholly wasted—wide spaces in the shrubbery frequently dug over in the winter, plantations, grass–walks, hedgerows, rough banks, slopes, etc., which hitherto have grown only grass and weeds, and on these a rich garden flora may be grown. Hundreds of the more vigorous and handsome herbaceous plants that exist will thrive in these places and do further good in exterminating weeds and preventing the need of digging. Every kind of surface may be embellished by a person with any slight knowledge of hardy plants—ditch–banks, gravel–pits, old trees, hedge–banks, rough, grassy places that are never mown, copses, woods, lanes, rocky or stony ground.

I then started to think about the different ways to grow hardy plants completely aside from the traditional methods (like bedding plants or mixed borders), and the wild garden, or a garden created in the wilderness, groves, shrubberies, copses, or the rougher areas of the pleasure garden, became a favorite idea that I eventually developed into a book with that title. In nearly all our gardens, there are large areas that go to waste—wide spaces in the shrubbery often dug up in the winter, plantations, grass paths, hedgerows, rough banks, slopes, and so on, where only grass and weeds have grown in the past. Yet, these areas can support a rich garden flora. Hundreds of strong and beautiful herbaceous plants can thrive in these spots, helping to eliminate weeds and reducing the need for digging. Anyone with a little knowledge of hardy plants can enhance any kind of surface—ditch banks, gravel pits, old trees, hedge banks, rough grassy areas that are never mowed, copses, forests, lanes, rocky or stony ground.

The tendency has always been to suppose that a plant from another country than our own was a subject requiring much attention, not thinking that the conditions that occur in such places as mentioned above, are, as a rule, quite as favourable as those that obtain in nature throughout the great northern regions of Europe, Asia, and America. Here some common plants of the woods of the Eastern States are considered rarities and coddled accordingly to their destruction. It is quite a phenomenon to see a flower on the little Yellow Dog’s–Tooth Violet, which I remember seeing in quantity among the grass in your noble Central Park. When one has but a few specimens of a plant, it is best no doubt to carefully watch them. But an exposed and carefully dug garden border is the worst place to grow many wood and copse plants (I mean plants that grow naturally in such places), and in many uncultivated spots here the American Dog’s–Tooth Violet would flower quite as freely as at home. Your[108] beautiful little May–flower, Epigæa repens, we have never succeeded in growing in our best American nurseries, as they are called, which grow your Rhododendrons and other flowering shrubs so well. If a number of young plants of this were put out in a sandy fir–wood, under the shrubs and pines, as they grow in New Jersey, we should succeed at once. Your beautiful Trillium grandiflorum is usually seen here in a poor state; but I have seen a plant in a shady position in a shrubbery, in rich, moist soil, quite two feet through and two feet high.

The common assumption has always been that a plant from another country requires a lot of attention, not realizing that the conditions in those places are often just as suitable as those in the natural environments found in the northern regions of Europe, Asia, and America. Some ordinary plants from the woods of the Eastern States are treated as rare finds, leading to their eventual decline. It’s quite remarkable to spot a flower on the little Yellow Dog’s-Tooth Violet, which I remember seeing in abundance among the grass in your lovely Central Park. When you only have a few specimens of a plant, it's definitely a good idea to keep a close eye on them. However, an open and carefully cultivated garden border is actually the worst place to grow many woodland plants (I mean plants that naturally thrive in such areas), and in many wild spots here, the American Dog’s-Tooth Violet would bloom just as freely as it does at home. Your[108] beautiful little May-flower, Epigæa repens, has never thrived in our so-called best American nurseries, which do a great job with your Rhododendrons and other flowering shrubs. If several young plants of this were planted in a sandy pine forest under the shrubs and pines, as they grow in New Jersey, we would be successful immediately. Your stunning Trillium grandiflorum is usually seen here in a poor condition; however, I’ve spotted a plant in a shady area of a shrubbery, in rich, moist soil, that was nearly two feet wide and two feet tall.

Woodruft and Ivy.

Woodruff and Ivy.

I mention these things to show that the wild garden may even have advantages from the point of view of cultivation. Another advantage is the facilities it affords us for enjoying representations of the vegetation of other countries. Here, for example, the poorest soil in the most neglected copse will grow a mixture of golden rods and asters, which will give us an aspect of vegetation everywhere seen in American woods in autumn. This to you may appear a very commonplace delight; but as we have nothing at all like it, it is welcome. Besides, we in this way get the golden rods and coarser asters out of the garden proper, in which they used to overrun the choicer plants, and where they did much to disgrace the mixed border. So, in like manner, you may, in New England or New Jersey, make wild gardens of such of our English flowers as you love. For example, the now numerous and very handsome varieties of our Primroses, Polyanthuses, and Oxlips would probably succeed better with you in moist places, in woods, or partially shaded positions, than in the open garden. There[109] can be no doubt in which position they would look best. But let us suppose for a moment that there was no other object for the wild garden in America than growing the many lovely wild flowers that inhabit the land, it is sufficient. Here some of your wildlings are the darlings of our rock–garden growers, though we are far from possessing all the bright flowers and graceful trailers that adorn the bogs and woods and heaths of the Eastern States. It would be most wise, in case of possessing a little bit of wood or copse, adorned naturally with the trailing Partridge Berry, and the rosy Lady’s Slipper (Cypripedium acaule), which I noticed growing so plentifully, to preserve the spot as a wild garden, and add to it such home and foreign, free and handsome hardy plants, as one could obtain.

I bring these things up to show that a wild garden can actually have benefits when it comes to cultivation. Another advantage is that it gives us the chance to enjoy plants from other countries. For instance, even the poorest soil in a neglected grove will support a mix of goldenrods and asters, which gives us a glimpse of the vegetation commonly seen in American woods during autumn. This might seem like a simple pleasure to you, but since we don’t have anything like it, it's appreciated. Furthermore, by doing this, we can keep goldenrods and rougher asters out of the main garden, where they used to crowd out the more delicate plants and hurt the look of the mixed borders. Similarly, in New England or New Jersey, you can create wild gardens using the English flowers you love. For example, the now abundant and attractive varieties of our Primroses, Polyanthuses, and Oxlips would likely thrive better in humid spots, in woodlands, or partly shaded areas than in an open garden. There[109] is no doubt about where they would look best. But let’s imagine, for a moment, that the only purpose of creating a wild garden in America is to grow the many beautiful wildflowers native to the area—it would still be worthwhile. Some of your wildflowers are favorites among our rock garden enthusiasts, although we don’t have all the vibrant flowers and elegant creepers that embellish the wetlands, woods, and heaths of the Eastern States. It would be very wise, if you have even a small patch of forest or thicket with the naturally growing trailing Partridge Berry and the pink Lady's Slipper (Cypripedium acaule), which I saw growing abundantly, to preserve the area as a wild garden and add to it any hardy plants you can get, both local and exotic, that are free and attractive.

It is impossible in this letter to speak of the various kinds of wild gardens, but the opportunity which the system offers for embellishing cool shady places is one which should make it interesting to the people to whose language belongs the term “shade trees.” Usually flower beds and borders are in the full sun—a very proper arrangement in a cool country. But even in our climate, there are in the warm months many days in which the woodland shade is sought in preference to the open lawn, and when the fully–exposed garden is deserted. Therefore, it is clearly desirable that we have flowers in shady as well as sunny places. Many plants, too, love the shade, and we only require to plant the most suitable of these to enjoy a charming wild garden. It need not be pointed out to Americans that a vast number of herbaceous plants naturally inhabit woods. In America, where shade is such a necessity, the wild garden in the shade will be the most delightful retreat near the country house. In it many of the plants common in the gardens of all northern countries will, without wearisome attention, flower in the spring.

It’s not possible in this letter to discuss all the different types of wild gardens, but the chance this system offers to enhance cool, shady spots should be appealing to those who refer to them as “shade trees.” Typically, flower beds and borders are in full sunlight—an appropriate setup in cooler regions. However, even in our climate, there are plenty of days during summer when people prefer the woodland shade over the open lawn, leaving the sun-soaked garden abandoned. Therefore, it’s clearly important to have flowers in both shady and sunny areas. Many plants thrive in the shade too, and we just need to choose the right ones to enjoy a beautiful wild garden. It's unnecessary to explain to Americans that many herbaceous plants naturally grow in woods. In America, where shade is so essential, a wild garden in the shade will be the most pleasant retreat near a country house. In this space, many plants common to gardens in all northern countries will bloom in spring without requiring constant attention.

For the early summer months flowers of a somewhat later period will be selected, as, for example, the later Irises—lovely hardy flowers, the tall Asphodel A. ramosus, the Day Lilies (Hemerocallis), the Solomon’s Seal and some of its allies, the Veronicas, tall Phloxes, the great Scarlet Poppy (Papaver bracteatum), Symphytums in variety;—these are all free–growing and admirable plants for the wild wood–garden. Mulleins (Verbascum), Salvias, Harebells (Campanula), Willow herbs, tall Lupines, Geraniums, Spurges, Meadow Rues, Columbines, Delphiniums, and the latest wind flowers (Anemone).

For the early summer months, flowers that bloom a bit later will be chosen, like the later Irises—beautiful, hardy flowers, the tall Asphodel A. ramosus, the Day Lilies (Hemerocallis), Solomon's Seal and some of its relatives, Veronicas, tall Phloxes, the impressive Scarlet Poppy (Papaver bracteatum), and various Symphytums; all of these are vigorous and excellent plants for a wild wood garden. Mulleins (Verbascum), Salvias, Harebells (Campanula), Willow herbs, tall Lupines, Geraniums, Spurges, Meadow Rues, Columbines, Delphiniums, and the latest wind flowers (Anemone).

Later still, and in the sunny days, would come the various beautiful everlasting peas, various plants of the Mallow tribe, the Poke[110] Weeds, broad–leaved Sea Lavender, and other vigorous kinds, the Globe Thistles, Acanthuses, the free–flowering Yuccas, such as Y. flaccida and Y. filamentosa, the common Artichoke, with its noble flowers; and in autumn, a host of the Golden Rods and Michaelmas Daisies. These are so common in America that adding them to the wild garden would probably be considered a needless labour; but the substitution of the various really beautiful species of aster for those commonly found and of inferior beauty would well repay. In case it were thought desirable in making a wild garden in a shady position to grow plants that do not attain perfection in such positions, they might be grown in the more open parts at hand, and sufficiently near to be seen in the picture.

Later on, during the sunny days, various beautiful everlasting peas would bloom, along with different plants from the Mallow family, the Poke[110] Weeds, broad-leaved Sea Lavender, and other robust types like Globe Thistles, Acanthuses, and free-flowering Yuccas, such as Y. flaccida and Y. filamentosa, along with the common Artichoke and its majestic flowers. In autumn, a multitude of Golden Rods and Michaelmas Daisies would appear. These are so common in America that adding them to a wild garden might seem unnecessary; however, replacing the typical, less attractive asters with a variety of truly beautiful species would be worthwhile. If it seems desirable to create a wild garden in a shady area using plants that don’t thrive perfectly in such conditions, those plants could be grown in more open nearby spaces, close enough to be included in the view.


CHAPTER XIII.

A PLAN FOR THE EMBELLISHMENT OF THE SHRUBBERY BORDERS IN LONDON PARKS.
ill111

A PLAN FOR BEAUTIFYING THE SHRUBBERY BORDERS IN LONDON PARKS.
ill111

Dug and mutilated Shrubbery in St. James’s Park. Sketched in winter of 1879.

Dug up and damaged Shrubbery in St. James’s Park. Sketched in winter of 1879.

In the winter season, or indeed at any other season, one of the most melancholy things to be seen in our parks and gardens are the long, bare, naked shrubberies, extending, as along the Bayswater Road, more or less for a mile in a place; the soil greasy, black, seamed with the mutilated roots of the poor shrubs and trees; which are none the better, but very much the worse, for the cruel annual attention of digging up their young roots without returning any adequate nourishment or good to the soil. Culturally, the whole thing is suicidal, both for trees and plants. The mere fact of men having to pass through one[112] of those shrubberies every autumn, and, as they fancy, “prune” and otherwise attend to unfortunate shrubs and low trees, leads to this, and especially to the shrubs taking the appearance of inverted besoms. Thus a double wrong is done, and at great waste of labour. Any interesting life that might be in the ground is destroyed, and the whole appearance of the shrubbery is made hideous from the point of view of art; all good culture of flowering or evergreen shrubs destroyed or made impossible. This system is an orthodox one, that has descended to us from other days, the popular idea being that the right thing to do in autumn is to dig the shrubbery. The total abolition of this system, and the adoption of the one to be presently described, would lead to the happiest revolution ever effected in gardening, and be a perfectly easy, practicable means for the abolition of the inverted besoms, and the choke–muddle shrubbery, and these awful wastes of black soil and mutilated roots.

In the winter, or really at any time of year, one of the saddest sights in our parks and gardens is the long, bare shrubbery along the Bayswater Road, stretching for about a mile in places. The soil is grimy, black, and riddled with the damaged roots of poor shrubs and trees, which end up worse off due to the cruel yearly practice of uprooting their young roots without giving any proper nourishment back to the soil. Culturally, this is harmful for both trees and plants. Just the fact that people feel the need to walk through these shrubberies every autumn and “prune” and tend to unfortunate shrubs and small trees causes this, particularly making the shrubs look like upside-down brooms. This creates a double injustice and wastes a lot of labor. Any interesting life that might exist in the ground is ruined, and the overall look of the shrubbery becomes ugly from an artistic perspective; all good cultivation of flowering or evergreen shrubs is destroyed or made impossible. This approach is a traditional one, passed down from earlier times, with the common belief being that the correct action in autumn is to dig up the shrubbery. Completely eliminating this method and adopting the one to be described later would bring about the happiest change ever seen in gardening, providing an easy and practical way to get rid of the upside-down brooms, the tangled shrubbery, and the terrible wasteland of black soil and damaged roots.

Two ideas should be fixed in the mind of the improver, the one being to allow all the beautiful shrubs to assume their natural shapes, either singly or in groups, with sufficient space between to allow of their fair development, so that the shrubbery might, in the flowering season, or indeed at all seasons, be the best kind of conservatory—a beautiful winter garden even, with the branches of most of the shrubs touching the ground, no mutilation whatever visible, and no hard dug line outside the shrubs. This last improvement could easily be effected by forming a natural fringe, so to say, by breaking up the usual hard edge from good planting; by letting, in fact, the edge be formed by well–furnished shrubs projected beyond the hard line, and running in and out as they do on a[113] hill copse, or as the box bushes sometimes do on a Sussex down. Here care, variety in selection, taste and skill in grouping, so as to allow different subjects, whether placed singly or in groups, or little groves, being in a position where they may grow well and be seen to advantage, would lead to the most charming results in the open–air garden. With sufficient preparation at first, such shrubberies would be the cause of very little trouble afterwards.

Two ideas should be kept in mind by anyone looking to improve their garden. First, let all the beautiful shrubs grow into their natural shapes, either individually or in clusters, with enough space in between for them to thrive. This way, the shrubbery can become the best kind of conservatory during the flowering season—and really at any time—a stunning winter garden, even, with the branches of most shrubs touching the ground, showing no signs of pruning, and with no harshly cut lines around the shrubs. This last improvement could easily be achieved by creating a natural border, breaking up the usual sharp edge with good planting. Essentially, the edge should be formed by well-grown shrubs extending beyond the hard line and shaping in and out like they do in a[113] hillside thicket, or like the box bushes sometimes do on a Sussex downland. Here, attention to detail, variety in plant selection, aesthetic sense, and skill in grouping—so that different subjects, whether placed alone or in clusters, or small groves, are positioned to grow well and be viewed to their best advantage—would create the most beautiful results in the outdoor garden. With enough initial preparation, such shrubbery will require very little maintenance afterwards.

Now, such beauty could be obtained without any further aid from other plants; and in many cases it might be desirable to consider the trees and shrubs and their effect only, and let the turf spread in among them; but we have the privilege of adding to this beautiful tree and shrub life another world of beauty—the bulbs and herbaceous plants, and innumerable beautiful things which go to form the ground flora, so to say, of northern and temperate countries, and which light up the world with loveliness in meadow or copse, or wood or alpine pasture in the flowering season. The surface which is dug and wasted in all our parks, and in numbers of our gardens, should be occupied with this varied life; not in the miserable old mixed border fashion, with each plant stuck up with a stick, but with the plants in groups and colonies between the shrubs. In the spaces where turf would not thrive, or where it might be troublesome to keep fresh, we should have irises, or narcissi, or lupines, or French willows, or Japan anemones, or any of scores of other lovely things which people cannot now find a place for in our stiff gardens. The soil which now does little work, and in which the tree–roots every year are mercilessly dug up, would support myriads of lovely plants. The necessity of[114] allowing abundant space to the shrubs and trees, both in the young and the adult stage, gives us some space to deal with, which may be occupied with weeds if we do not take care of it. The remedy, then, is to replace the weed by a beautiful flower, and to let some handsome hardy plant of the northern world occupy each little space; keeping it clean for us, and, at the same time, repaying us by abundant bloom, or fine foliage or habit. This system in the first place allows the shrubs themselves to cover the ground to a great extent. In the London parks now every shrub is cut under so as to allow the digger to get near it; and this leads to the most comical and villainous of shapes ever assumed by bushes. Even the lilac bushes, which we see so horribly stiff, will cover the ground with their branches if allowed room enough; therefore, to a great extent, we should have the branches themselves covering the ground instead of what we now see. But open spaces, little bays and avenues running in among the shrubs, are absolutely essential, if we want to fully enjoy what ought to be the beautiful inhabitants of our shrub garden. Such openings offer delightful retreats for hardy flowers, many of which thrive better in semi–shady spots than they do in the open, while the effect of the flowers is immeasurably enhanced by the foliage of the shrubs around. To carry out this plan well, one should have, if possible, a good selection of the shrubs to begin with, although the plainest shrubbery, which is not overgrown or overcrowded, may be embellished with hardy plants on the ground. The plan may be adopted in the case of new shrubberies being formed, or in the case of old ones; though the old ones are frequently so dried up and overcrowded that great alterations[115] would have to be made here and there. In the case of young shrubberies it is, of course, necessary at first to keep the surface open for a while until the shrubs have taken hold of the ground; then the interesting colonies to which we alluded may be planted.

Now, you can achieve such beauty without help from other plants. In many cases, it might be better to focus on just the trees and shrubs and let the grass spread among them. However, we have the chance to add another layer of beauty—the bulbs and herbaceous plants, along with many stunning elements that create the ground flora of northern and temperate regions, lighting up the world with loveliness in meadows, thickets, woods, or alpine pastures during the blooming season. The areas that are dug up and wasted in parks and many of our gardens should be filled with this diverse life; not in the old, sad mixed border style, where each plant is propped up with a stick, but with plants organized in groups and colonies among the shrubs. In spots where grass won’t thrive or where it might be hard to keep fresh, we should have irises, daffodils, lupines, French willows, Japanese anemones, or many other lovely plants that struggle to find a place in our rigid gardens. The soil that currently does little would support countless beautiful plants. The need to give ample space to shrubs and trees, both when they’re young and when they’re mature, gives us areas to manage that could otherwise be overrun with weeds if we don’t take care of them. The solution is to replace weeds with beautiful flowers and allow attractive hardy plants from the northern world to fill in each little space; keeping it tidy for us and, at the same time, rewarding us with abundant blooms, beautiful foliage, or pleasing forms. This approach allows the shrubs themselves to cover much of the ground. In London parks, every shrub is pruned heavily to allow workers to get close, which results in the most ridiculous and unappealing shapes for the bushes. Even lilac bushes, which tend to look stiff, would naturally cover the ground with their branches if given enough space; thus, we could have the branches themselves covering the ground instead of what we see now. However, open spaces, little alcoves, and paths among the shrubs are essential if we want to fully enjoy the beautiful plants in our shrub garden. These openings provide lovely spots for hardy flowers, many of which thrive better in partial shade than in full sun, while the flowers look even more striking against the surrounding foliage of the shrubs. To implement this plan effectively, it’s best to start with a good variety of shrubs; although even the simplest shrubbery, as long as it isn’t overgrown, can be enhanced with hardy ground plants. This plan can be used for new shrub plantings or existing ones; though often, the old ones are so dried out and overcrowded that significant changes would need to be made here and there. For young shrub plantings, it’s important at first to keep the surface open until the shrubs establish themselves; then, we can plant the interesting colonies we mentioned.

Colony of the Snowdrop–Anemone in Shrubbery not dug. Anemone taking the place of weeds or bare earth.

Colony of the Snowdrop–Anemone in undug shrubbery. Anemone replacing weeds or bare soil.

An essential thing is to abolish utterly the old dotting principle of the mixed border, as always ugly and always bad from a cultural point of view. Instead of sticking a number of things in one place, with many labels, and graduating them from the back to the front, so as to secure the stiffest imaginable kind of arrangement, the true way is to have in each space wide colonies or groups of one kind, or more than one[116] kind. Here is a little bay, for example, with the turf running into it, a handsome holly feathered to the turf forming one promontory, and a spreading evergreen barberry, with its fine leaves also touching the ground, forming the other. As the turf passes in between those two it begins to be colonised with little groups of the pheasant’s–eye Narcissus, and soon in the grass is changed into a waving meadow of these fair flowers and their long grayish leaves. They carry the eye in among the other shrubs, and perhaps carry it to some other colony of a totally different plant behind—an early and beautiful boragewort, say, with its bright blue flowers, also in a spreading colony. Some might say, Your flowers of narcissi only last a certain time; how are you going to replace them? The answer is, that they occupy, and beautifully embellish, a place that before was wholly naked, and worse than naked, and in this position we contend that our narcissi should be seen in all their stages of bud and bloom and decay without being hurried out of the world as soon as their fair bloom is over, as they are on the border or in the greenhouse. They are worth growing if we only secure this one beautiful aspect of vegetation where before all was worse than lost. We also secure plenty of cut flowers without troubling the ordinary resources of the garden.

A crucial step is to completely get rid of the outdated practice of mixed borders, which has always been unattractive and culturally poor. Rather than cramming a bunch of things together with numerous labels and arranging them from back to front to achieve the most rigid setup, the real approach is to create wide groups or clusters of one type or more than one type in each space. For instance, there’s a small bay where the grass leads into it, with a beautiful holly edging the turf on one side and a sprawling evergreen barberry, whose lovely leaves also touch the ground, on the other. As the grass flows between these two, it starts to fill up with little patches of pheasant’s-eye Narcissus, transforming the grass into a waving meadow of these lovely flowers and their long grayish leaves. They draw the eye among the other shrubs, perhaps leading to another area with a completely different plant behind—say, an early and beautiful boragewort, with its bright blue flowers, also spreading out in a colony. Some might argue that the narcissus flowers only last a limited time; how will you replace them? The answer is that they beautifully enhance an area that was previously completely bare, and in this position, we believe our narcissi should be appreciated in all their stages of bud, bloom, and decay without being rushed out of sight as soon as their lovely flowers fade, as they often are in borders or greenhouses. They are worth growing if we can achieve this beautiful aspect of nature where before it was far worse. We also ensure a good supply of cut flowers without relying on the usual garden resources.

We might then pass on to another, of the German iris, occupying not only a patch, but a whole clump; for these enormous London parks of ours have acres and acres on every side of this greasy dug earth which ought to sparkle with flowers; and, therefore, a very fine plant might be seen to a large extent. And how much better for the gardener or cultivator to have to deal with one in one[117] place than be tormented with a hundred little “dots” of flowers—alpine, rock, wood, copse, or meadow plants—all mixed up in that usually wretched soup called the “mixed border”! No plants that require staking ought to be used in the way we are speaking of. Day lilies, for example, are good plants. In some bold opening what a fine effect we could get by having a spreading colony of these therein; scores of plants might be named, that want no sticking, for such places. Each plant having a sufficient space and forming its own colony, there is much less doubt in case of alterations as to what should be done. In fact, in the case of an intelligent cultivator, there should be no doubt. Observe the advantage of this plan. Instead of seeing the same plants everywhere, we should pass on from narcissi to iris, from iris to bluebell, and thus meet with a different kind of vegetation in each part of the park or garden, instead of the eternal monotony of privet and long dreary line of “golden–feather” everywhere. The same kind of variety, as suggested for the flowers, should be seen among the shrubs. The sad planter’s mixture—privet, laurel, etc.—taking all the colour and all the life and charm out of the shrubbery, should be avoided; so, too, the oppressive botanical business, with everything labelled, and plants classified out of doors as they are in an herbarium. They should be put where they would look well and grow best. Well carried out, such a system would involve labour, and, above all things, taste at first; but it would eventually resolve itself into the judicious removal of interloping weeds. The labour that is now given to dig and mutilate once a year and keep clean at other times of the year would easily, on the plan proposed, suffice for a much[118] larger area. More intelligence would certainly be required. Any ignorant man can dig around and mutilate a shrub and chop up a white lily if he meets it! But any person taught to distinguish between our coarse native weeds and the beautiful plants we want to establish, passing round now and then, would keep all safe.

We might then move on to another type, the German iris, occupying not just a patch, but an entire clump; because these massive London parks of ours have acres and acres of this greasy dug-up earth that should be alive with flowers. Therefore, a really impressive plant could be seen in large quantities. And how much better for the gardener or grower to deal with one type in one spot than to be frustrated by a hundred little “dots” of flowers—alpine, rock, wood, coppice, or meadow plants—all mixed together in that usually awful mess called the “mixed border”! No plants that need staking should be used in this way. Day lilies, for instance, are great plants. In a bold open area, just imagine the beautiful effect we could achieve with a spreading colony of these; many plants could be mentioned that don't require staking for such locations. Each plant having enough space and forming its own colony makes it much clearer what should be done in case of changes. In fact, for a knowledgeable cultivator, there should be no doubt. Notice the benefits of this approach. Instead of seeing the same plants everywhere, we would transition from narcissi to iris, from iris to bluebell, experiencing different types of vegetation in each part of the park or garden, instead of the endless monotony of privet and long dreary lines of “golden-feather” everywhere. The same variety suggested for the flowers should also apply to the shrubs. The sad mixture of plants—privet, laurel, etc.—which drains all the color, life, and charm from the shrubbery, should be avoided; likewise, the cumbersome botanical arrangement, where everything is labeled and plants classified outdoors as they are in a herbarium. They should be placed where they would look good and grow best. If executed well, this system would require effort, and most importantly, taste at first; but it would eventually focus on the careful removal of unwanted weeds. The effort currently spent digging and mutilating once a year and keeping things tidy at other times of the year would easily be enough, under the proposed plan, for a much larger area. More understanding would definitely be needed. Any untrained person can dig around and cut up a shrub or chop a white lily if they find one! But someone taught to distinguish between our coarse native weeds and the beautiful plants we want to cultivate, occasionally checking in, would keep everything safe.

On a large scale, in the London parks, such a plan would be impossible to carry out without a nursery garden; that is to say, the things wanted should be in such abundance, that making the features of the kind we suggest would be easy to the superintendent. The acres and acres of black surface should themselves afford here and there a little ground where the many hardy plants adapted for this kind of gardening might be placed and increased. This, supposing that a real want of the public gardens of London—a large and well–managed nursery in the pure air—is never carried out: the wastefulness of buying everything they want—even the commonest things—is a costly drawback to our London public gardens. At the very least we should have 100 acres of nursery gardens for the planting and replanting of the London parks. So, too, there ought to be intelligent labour to carry out this artistic planting; and with the now–awakened taste for some variety in the garden, one cannot doubt that a few years will give us a race of intelligent young men, who know a little of the plants that grow in northern countries, and whose mental vision is not begun and ended by the ribbon border.

On a big scale, in the London parks, such a plan would be impossible to implement without a nursery garden; that is, the necessary items should be available in such abundance that creating the features we suggested would be easy for the superintendent. The acres of black surface should provide spots here and there where the many hardy plants suited for this type of gardening can be planted and nurtured. This assumes that a real need for London’s public gardens—a large and well-managed nursery in fresh air—is never addressed: the wastefulness of buying everything they need—even the most basic items—is a costly drawback for our London public gardens. At the very least, we should have 100 acres of nursery gardens for planting and replanting in the London parks. Also, there should be skilled labor to carry out this artistic planting; and with the growing interest in variety in gardens, it’s hard to doubt that in a few years, we’ll have a generation of knowledgeable young men who are familiar with the plants that thrive in northern countries, and whose understanding doesn’t start and end with the ribbon border.

The treatment of the margin of the shrubbery is a very important point here. At present it is stiff—the shrubs cut in or the trees cut in, and an unsightly border running[119] straight along, perhaps with a tile edging. Well, the right way is to have a broken margin, to let the shrubs run in and out themselves, and let them form the margin; let them come to the ground in fact, not stiffly, and here and there growing right outside the ordinary boundary, in a little group. Throw away altogether the crowded masses of starved privet and pruned laurel, and let the turf pass right under a group of fine trees where such are found. This turf itself might be dotted in spring with snowdrops and early flowers; nothing, in fact, would be easier than for any intelligent person, who knew and cared for trees and shrubs, to change the monotonous wall of shrubbery into the most delightful of open–air gardens; abounding in beautiful life, from the red tassels on the topmost maples to flowers in the grass for children.

The way we handle the edges of the shrubbery is a key point here. Right now, it's too rigid—either the shrubs are trimmed back or the trees are cut in, creating an unattractive line that runs straight along, possibly with a tile border. The proper approach is to have a more natural, uneven edge, allowing the shrubs to grow in and out freely to form the boundary; they should be able to reach the ground naturally, not in a stiff manner, with some of them extending just beyond the usual limit in little clusters. We should get rid of the crowded clumps of undernourished privet and trimmed laurel, and let the grass spread right beneath a group of beautiful trees when they're present. This grass could be sprinkled with snowdrops and early flowers in the spring; really, it would be simple for anyone with a bit of knowledge and a passion for trees and shrubs to transform the dull wall of shrubbery into the most charming open-air garden, full of vibrant life, from the red tassels of the tallest maples to flowers in the grass for kids.

Colony of the Summer Snowflake, on margin of shrubbery.

Colony of the Summer Snowflake, on the edge of the bushes.


CHAPTER XIV.

THE PRINCIPAL TYPES OF HARDY EXOTIC FLOWERING PLANTS FOR THE WILD GARDEN.

THE MAIN TYPES OF HARDY EXOTIC FLOWERING PLANTS FOR THE WILD GARDEN.

Wherever there is room, these plants should be at first grown in nursery beds to ensure a good supply. The number of nursery collections of hardy plants being now more numerous than they were a few years ago, getting the plants is not so difficult as it once was. The sources of supply are these nurseries; seed houses, who have lists of hardy plant seeds—many kinds may be easily raised from seed; botanic gardens, in which many plants are grown that hitherto have not found a place in our gardens, and were not fitted for any mode of culture except that herein suggested; orchards and cottage gardens in pleasant country places may supply desirable things from time to time; and those who travel may bring seeds or roots of plants they meet with in cool, temperate, or mountain regions. Few plants, not free of growth and hardy in the British Islands without any attention after planting, are included here:—

Wherever there’s space, these plants should initially be grown in nursery beds to ensure a good supply. The number of nursery collections of hardy plants is now greater than it was a few years ago, making it easier to get the plants than it used to be. The sources of supply are these nurseries; seed houses, which have lists of hardy plant seeds—many kinds can be easily raised from seed; botanic gardens, where many plants are grown that haven’t previously found a spot in our gardens and weren’t suitable for any cultivation method except the one suggested here; orchards and cottage gardens in nice countryside areas may provide desirable plants from time to time; and those who travel might bring seeds or roots of plants they find in cool, temperate, or mountain regions. Few plants that are not vigorous and hardy in the British Islands without any care after planting are included here:—

Bear’s Breech, Acanthus.—Vigorous perennials with noble foliage, mostly from Southern Europe. Long cast out of gardens, they are now beginning to receive more of the attention they deserve. In no position will they look better than carelessly planted here and there on the margin of a shrubbery or thicket, where the leaves of the Acanthus contrast well with those of the ordinary shrubs or herbaceous[121] vegetation. Though quite hardy in all soils, they flower most freely in free loamy soils. Not varying very much in character, all obtainable hardy species would group well together. The most vigorous kind at present in cultivation is one called A. latifolius, almost evergreen, and a fine plant when well established. Few plants are more fitted for adorning wild and semi–wild places, as they grow and increase without care, and are for foliage or bloom unsurpassed by any of the numerous plants that have been so long neglected through their not being available in any popular system of “flower gardening.”ill121

Bear’s Breech, Acanthus.—Robust perennials with impressive foliage, mostly from Southern Europe. Long overlooked in gardens, they’re now starting to get the recognition they deserve. They look best when casually planted here and there at the edge of a shrubbery or thicket, where the Acanthus leaves contrast nicely with the regular shrubs or herbaceous[121] plants. Although they're quite hardy in all soils, they flower best in loose, loamy soil. There isn’t much variation among them, so all the hardy species available work well together. The most vigorous type currently in cultivation is A. latifolius, which is nearly evergreen and makes a great plant when well established. Few plants are better suited for enhancing wild and semi-wild areas since they thrive and multiply without much care and are unsurpassed in foliage or bloom by many plants that have been neglected due to not fitting into popular concepts of “flower gardening.”ill121

The Monkshood, naturalised by wet ditch in wood.

The Monkshood, thriving naturally in a damp ditch within the woods.

Monkshood, Aconitum.—These are tall, handsome perennials, with very poisonous roots, which make it dangerous to plant them in or near gardens. Being usually very vigorous in constitution, they spread freely, and hold their own amongst the strongest herbaceous plants and weeds; masses of them seen in flower in copses or near hedgerows afford a very fine effect. There are many species, all nearly of equal value for the wild garden. Coming from the plains and mountains of Siberia and Northern Europe and America, they are among the hardiest of plants. When spreading groups of Aconites are in bloom in copses or open spaces in shrubberies, their effect is far finer than when the plants are tied into bundles in trim borders. The old blue–and–white kind is charming in half–shady spots, attaining stately dimensions in good soil. The species grow in any soil, but are often somewhat stunted in growth on clay.

Monkshood, Aconitum.—These are tall, attractive perennials with very poisonous roots, making it risky to plant them in or near gardens. Typically quite robust, they spread easily and can thrive among the strongest herbaceous plants and weeds. When seen in flower in woods or near hedgerows, they create a stunning display. There are many species, all nearly equally valuable for wild gardens. Originating from the plains and mountains of Siberia, Northern Europe, and America, they are some of the hardiest plants. Groups of Aconites in bloom in woods or open areas of shrubbery look much better than when the plants are tightly arranged in neat borders. The traditional blue-and-white variety is lovely in partially shaded spots, reaching impressive sizes in good soil. These species can grow in any soil but may be somewhat stunted in clay.

Bugle, Ajuga.—Not a very numerous family so far as represented in gardens, but some of the species are valuable for the wild garden, notably Ajuga genevensis, which thrives freely in ordinary soils in open and half–shady places among dwarf vegetation, and affords beautiful tufts and carpets of blue. It spreads rapidly and is hardy everywhere. The plants mostly come from the cool uplands and hills of the temperate regions of Europe and Asia.

Bugle, Ajuga.—This family isn't very common in gardens, but some species are great for wild gardens, particularly Ajuga genevensis, which grows easily in regular soil in both sunny and partially shaded areas among low plants, creating stunning blue tufts and carpets. It spreads quickly and is hardy in various climates. Most of these plants originate from the cool highlands and hills of temperate regions in Europe and Asia.

Yarrow, Achillea.—A numerous family of hardy plants spread through Northern Asia, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Hungary, etc., but more in Southern than in Central or Northern Europe. In the Alps and Pyrenees numerous species are found. The Golden Yarrows (A. Eupatorium and A. filipendulina) are stately herbaceous plants, with broad handsome corymbs of brilliantly showy flowers, attaining a height of 3 feet or 4 feet, and growing freely in any soil. These are well worthy of naturalisation. Various other Achilleas would grow quite as well in copses and rough places as the common Yarrow, but we know of none more distinct and brilliant than the preceding. The vigorous white–flowering kinds are superb for shrubberies, where their numerous white heads of flowers produce a singularly pleasing effect under the trees in summer. With few exceptions these plants have never been grown out of botanic gardens, many of them being thought too coarse for the mixed border. They are, nevertheless, remarkably beautiful both in flower and foliage, and many effects never before seen in gardens may be obtained by massing them under trees in shrubberies or copses, as a rule allowing one species to establish itself in each place and assume an easy natural boundary of its own. The small Alpine species would be interesting plants for stony or bare rocky places.

Yarrow, Achillea.—This is a large family of resilient plants found throughout Northern Asia, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Hungary, and more, especially in Southern Europe compared to Central or Northern Europe. You can find many species in the Alps and Pyrenees. The Golden Yarrows (A. Eupatorium and A. filipendulina) are tall herbaceous plants with broad, beautiful clusters of striking flowers, reaching heights of 3 to 4 feet, and they thrive in nearly any type of soil. These are definitely worth introducing to new areas. Other Achilleas can also flourish in woods and rough spots just like the common Yarrow, but none are as distinct and vibrant as the Golden Yarrows. The robust white-flowering varieties are excellent for shrub gardens, where their numerous white flower heads create a uniquely pleasing view beneath the trees in summer. With few exceptions, these plants have mostly been kept in botanical gardens, as many are considered too coarse for mixed borders. However, they are incredibly beautiful in both flowers and foliage, and unique visual effects can be created by planting them in clusters under trees in shrubberies or woodlands, typically allowing one species to dominate each area and naturally define its own space. The small Alpine species would be interesting additions to stony or barren rocky areas.

Allium.—A most extensive genus of plants scattered in abundance throughout the northern temperate and alpine regions of Europe and Asia, and also in America. Some of the species are very beautiful, so much so as to claim for them a place in gardens notwithstanding their disagreeable odour. It is in the wild garden only, however, that this family can find a fitting home; there species that do not seem attractive enough for the garden proper would afford novel effects at certain seasons. One of the most desirable effects to produce in the wild garden would be that of the beautiful white Narcissus–like Allium of the south of Europe (A. neapolitanum). The sheets of this in the Lemon orchards of Provence will be remembered with pleasure by many travellers. It would thrive in warm and sandy soils: there is an allied species (A. ciliatum) which does well in any soil, affords a[123] similar effect, and produces myriads of star–like white flowers. Numerous singular effects may be produced from species less showy and more curious and vigorous, as for example the old yellow A. Moly.

Allium.—A large group of plants found abundantly throughout the northern temperate and alpine areas of Europe, Asia, and also in America. Some species are quite beautiful, enough to earn a spot in gardens despite their unpleasant smell. However, it's really in the wild garden that this family can truly thrive; there, species that don't seem attractive enough for traditional gardens can create unique displays at different times of the year. One of the most desirable effects to achieve in a wild garden would be the lovely white, Narcissus-like Allium from southern Europe (A. neapolitanum). Many travelers remember the stunning displays of this plant in the lemon orchards of Provence. It grows well in warm, sandy soils: there's a related species (A. ciliatum) that does well in any type of soil, offers a similar look, and produces countless star-like white flowers. Many unique effects can be created with less showy but more interesting and vigorous species, such as the old yellow A. Moly.

The white Narcissus–like Allium, in the orchards of Provence; type of family receiving little place in gardens which may be beautiful for a season in wild places.

The white Narcissus-like Allium in the orchards of Provence is a type of flower that doesn't get much attention in gardens, even though it might look beautiful in the wild for a season.

Alstrœmeria.—All who care for hardy flowers must admire the beauty of Alstrœmeria aurantiaca, especially when it spreads into bold healthy tufts, and when there is a great variety in the height of the flowering stems. A valuable quality of the plant is, that in any light soil it spreads freely, and it is quite hardy. For dry places between shrubs, for dry or sandy banks (either wooded or bare), copses, or heathy places, this plant is admirable. I have noticed it thriving in the shade of fir trees. It is interesting as being a South American plant, thriving in any open soil.

Alstroemeria.—Anyone who loves hardy flowers must appreciate the beauty of Alstroemeria aurantiaca, especially when it forms bold, healthy clusters and showcases a great variety in the height of its flowering stems. A great quality of this plant is that it spreads easily in light soil and is quite resilient. It works beautifully in dry spots among shrubs, on dry or sandy banks (whether wooded or bare), in small woods, or in heathy areas. I've seen it doing well in the shade of fir trees. It's noteworthy as a South American plant that thrives in any open soil.

Marsh Mallow, Althæa.—These are plants rarely seen out of botanic gardens now–a–days, and yet, from their vigour and showy flowers, they may afford unique effects in the wild garden. The common Hollyhock is an Althæa, and in its single form is typical of the vigorous habit and the numerous showy flowers of other rampant species, such as A. ficifolia. A group of these plants would be very effective seen from a wood walk, no kind of garden arrangement being large enough for their extraordinary vigour. It is not a numerous genus, but there are at least a dozen species, principally found on the shores and islands of the Mediterranean, and also in Western Asia.

Marsh Mallow, Althæa.—These plants are rarely seen outside of botanical gardens nowadays, yet their robust nature and vibrant flowers can create unique effects in a wild garden. The common Hollyhock is an Althæa, and in its single form, it showcases the vigorous growth and numerous striking flowers typical of other vigorous species, like A. ficifolia. A group of these plants would look very impressive when viewed from a woodland path, as no garden arrangement is large enough to contain their extraordinary growth. It's not a large genus, but there are at least a dozen species, mainly found along the shores and islands of the Mediterranean, as well as in Western Asia.

Alyssum.—In spring every little shoot of the wide tufts and flakes[124] of these plants sends up a little fountain of small golden flowers. For bare, stony, or rocky banks, poor sandy ground, and ruins, they are admirable. Alyssum Wiersbecki and A. saxatile are strong enough to take care of themselves on the margins of shrubberies, etc., where the vegetation is not very coarse, but they are more valuable for rocky or stony places, or old ruins, and thrive freely on cottage garden walls in some districts; some of the less grown species would be welcome in such places. There are many species, natives of Germany, Russia, France, Italy, Corsica, Sicily, Hungary, and Dalmatia; Asia, principally Siberia, the Altai Mountains, Georgia, Persia, and the entire basin of the Caspian, is rich in them.

Alyssum.—In spring, every little shoot from the wide clumps and patches of these plants bursts forth with tiny golden flowers. They’re great for bare, stony, or rocky banks, poor sandy soil, and ruins. Alyssum Wiersbecki and A. saxatile are tough enough to thrive on the edges of shrub areas where the vegetation isn’t too dense, but they’re even more valuable in rocky or stony spots, or old ruins, and they flourish on cottage garden walls in some regions; some of the less common species would be a great addition in such places. There are many species native to Germany, Russia, France, Italy, Corsica, Sicily, Hungary, and Dalmatia; Asia, especially Siberia, the Altai Mountains, Georgia, Persia, and the entire Caspian region, is abundant in them.

The Alpine Windflower (Anemone alpina).

The Alpine Windflower (Anemone alpina).

Windflower, Anemone.—A numerous race of dwarf herbs that contribute largely to the most beautiful effects of the mountain, wood, and pasture vegetation of all northern and temperate climes. The flowers vary from intense scarlet to the softest blue; most of the exotic kinds would thrive as well in our woodlands and meadows as they do in their own. There is hardly a position they may not adorn—warm, sunny, bare banks, on which the Grecian A. blanda might open its large blue flowers in winter; the tangled copse, where the Japan Windflower and its varieties might make a bold show in autumn; and the shady wood, where the Apennine Windflower would contrast charmingly with the Wood Anemone so abundantly scattered in our[125] own woods. The Hepaticas should be considered as belonging to the same genus, not forgetting the Hungarian one, A. angulosa. The Hepaticas thrive best and are seen best in half–woody places, where the spring sun may cheer them by passing through the branches, which afterwards become leafy and shade them from the scorching heats of summer.

Windflower, Anemone.—A large group of small plants that greatly enhance the beauty of mountain, forest, and pasture vegetation in all northern and temperate regions. The flowers range from vibrant scarlet to the softest blue; most of the exotic types would flourish in our woodlands and meadows just as well as they do in their native habitats. There’s barely a spot they can’t beautify—warm, sunny, bare banks where the Greek A. blanda might bloom with its large blue flowers in winter; the tangled thicket, where the Japanese Windflower and its varieties could make a striking display in autumn; and the shady forest, where the Apennine Windflower would stand out beautifully against the Wood Anemone so commonly found in our[125]own woods. The Hepaticas should be grouped with these, including the Hungarian one, A. angulosa. The Hepaticas do best and are most noticeable in semi-wooded areas, where the spring sun can brighten them as it filters through the branches, which later become leafy and provide shade from the intense summer heat.

St. Bruno’s Lily, Anthericum.—One of the most lovely aspects of vegetation in the alpine meadows of Europe is that afforded by the delicate white flowers of the St. Bruno’s Lily in the Grass in early summer, looking like miniature white Lilies. All who have seen it would no doubt like to enjoy the same in their turfy lawns or Grassy places, and there should be no difficulty in establishing it. The large–flowered or major variety might be tried with advantage in this way, and the smaller–flowered kinds, A. Liliago and its varieties, are equally suitable. They are not so likely to find favour in gardens as the larger kind, and therefore the wild garden is the home for them, and in it many will admire their graceful habit and numerous flowers. All the species best worth growing are natives of the alpine meadows of Europe.

St. Bruno’s Lily, Anthericum.—One of the most beautiful sights in the alpine meadows of Europe is the delicate white flowers of St. Bruno’s Lily in the grass during early summer, resembling tiny white Lilies. Everyone who has seen it would surely love to have the same beauty in their lawns or grassy areas, and it shouldn't be hard to grow. The large-flowered or major variety could be a great choice for this, while the smaller-flowered types, A. Liliago and its varieties, are also suitable. They may not be as popular in gardens as the larger variety, so they belong more in a wild garden, where many can appreciate their elegant shape and numerous flowers. All the best species to grow are native to the alpine meadows of Europe.

Alkanet, Anchusa.—Tall and handsome herbaceous plants, with numerous flowers of a fine blue, admirable for dotting about in open places in sunny glades in woods or copses. They mostly come from Southern Europe and Western Asia. A. italica and A. capensis are among the most useful. The English Anchusa sempervirens, rare in some places, is an excellent wild garden plant.

Alkanet, Anchusa.—Tall and striking herbaceous plants, with many beautiful blue flowers, perfect for scattering in sunny clearings in woods or groves. They mainly originate from Southern Europe and Western Asia. A. italica and A. capensis are some of the most useful varieties. The English Anchusa sempervirens, which is rare in some areas, makes an excellent addition to wild gardens.

Snapdragon, Antirrhinum.—The common Snapdragon and its beautifully spotted varieties are easily naturalised on old walls and ruins by sowing the seed in old or mossy chinks. Antirrhinum Asarinum, rupestre, and molle do well treated in the same way. Probably many other species would be found good in like places. About two dozen species are known, but comparatively few of these are in cultivation. They mostly come from the shores of the Mediterranean.

Snapdragon, Antirrhinum.—The common Snapdragon and its beautifully spotted varieties are easily naturalized on old walls and ruins by sowing the seeds in old or mossy cracks. Antirrhinum Asarinum, rupestre, and molle thrive when treated similarly. Many other species would likely do well in similar locations. About two dozen species are known, but relatively few of these are in cultivation. Most come from the shores of the Mediterranean.

Columbine, Aquilegia.—Favourite herbaceous plants, generally of various shades of blue and purple, white, and sometimes bright orange. The varieties of the common kind (A. vulgaris), which are very numerous, are those most likely to be naturalised. In elevated and moist districts some of the beautiful Rocky Mountain kinds would be worth a trial in bare places. In places where wild gardens have been formed the effect of Columbines in the Grass has been one of the most beautiful that have been obtained. The flowers group themselves in all sorts of pretty ways, showing just above the long Grass, and possessing great variety of colour. The vigorous and handsome A.[126] chrysantha of Western America is the most hardy and enduring of the American kinds. The species are of a truly northern and alpine family, most abundant in Siberia.ill126

Columbine, Aquilegia.—Popular herbaceous plants, typically in various shades of blue and purple, white, and occasionally bright orange. The numerous varieties of the common type (A. vulgaris) are most likely to become naturalized. In high and moist areas, some of the stunning Rocky Mountain varieties would be a great choice for bare spots. In places where wild gardens have been created, the sight of Columbines in the grass has been one of the most beautiful results. The flowers cluster in all sorts of lovely arrangements, peeking just above the tall grass and offering a vibrant range of colors. The robust and attractive A.[126] chrysantha from Western America is the hardiest and most long-lasting of the American types. The species belong to a truly northern and alpine family, most abundant in Siberia.ill126

Siberian Columbine in rocky place.

Siberian Columbine in rocky area.

Wall Cress, Arabis.—Dwarf alpine plants, spreading in habit, and generally producing myriads of white flowers, exceedingly suitable for the decoration of sandy or rocky ground, where the vegetation is very dwarf. With them may be associated Cardamine trifolia and Thlaspi latifolium, which resemble the Arabises in habit and flowers. All these are particularly suited for association with the purple Aubrietias, or yellow Alyssums, and in bare and rocky or gravelly places, old walls, sunk fences, etc.

Wall Cress, Arabis.—These are compact alpine plants that spread out and usually produce countless white flowers, making them perfect for decorating sandy or rocky areas with very low vegetation. You can pair them with Cardamine trifolia and Thlaspi latifolium, which have a similar growth style and flowers. All of these plants work particularly well alongside the purple Aubrietias or yellow Alyssums, and they thrive in bare, rocky, or gravelly spots, such as old walls, sunken fences, and so on.

Sandwort, Arenaria.—A most important family of plants for the wild garden, though perhaps less so for lowland gardens where more vigorous types flourish. There are, however, certain species that are vigorous and indispensable, such as A. montana and A. graminifolia. The smaller alpine species are charming for rocky places, and the little creeping A. balearica has quite a peculiar value, inasmuch as moist rocks or stones suffice for its support. It covers such surfaces with a close carpet of green, dotted with numerous star–like flowers. Some of the smaller species, such as Arenaria cæspitosa (Sagina glabra var.), better known as Spergula pilifera, might be grown in the gravel, and even used to convert bare and sandy places into carpets of Mossy turf. In certain[127] positions in large gardens it would be an improvement to allow the very walks or drives to become covered with very dwarf plants—plants which could be walked upon with little injury. The surface would be dry enough, being drained below, and would be more agreeable to the feet. Removing any coarse weeds that established themselves would be much easier than the continual hoeing and scraping required to keep the walk bare. Of course this only refers to walks in rough or picturesque places—the wild garden and the like—in which formal bare walks are somewhat out of place.ill127

Sandwort, Arenaria.—An important family of plants for wild gardens, though maybe not as much for lowland gardens where more vigorous types thrive. However, there are certain species that are strong and essential, like A. montana and A. graminifolia. The smaller alpine species are delightful for rocky areas, and the tiny creeping A. balearica is quite unique, as it only needs moist rocks or stones for support. It blankets these surfaces with a dense green layer, sprinkled with numerous star-like flowers. Some of the smaller species, like Arenaria cæspitosa (Sagina glabra var.), better known as Spergula pilifera, could be grown in gravel and even used to transform bare and sandy spots into lush mossy turf. In certain [127] areas of larger gardens, it would be an improvement to let the paths or driveways become covered with very low plants—plants that could withstand light foot traffic with minimal damage. The surface would remain dry, thanks to good drainage below, and would be more comfortable to walk on. It would also be much easier to remove any coarse weeds that grew rather than constantly hoeing and scraping to keep the path clear. Of course, this applies only to paths in rugged or scenic areas—the wild garden, and so on—where formal bare paths are somewhat out of place.ill127

Tall Asphodel in copse.

Tall Asphodel in woods.

Asphodel, Asphodelus.—The Asphodels are among the plants that have never been popular in the mixed border, nor are they likely to be so, the habit of the species being somewhat coarse and the flowering period not long, and yet they are of a stately and distinct order of beauty, which well deserves to be represented in open spaces, in shrubberies, or on their outer fringes. The plants are mostly natives of the countries round the Mediterranean, and thrive freely in ordinary soils.

Asphodel, Asphodelus.—The Asphodels are among the plants that have never been popular in mixed borders, nor are they likely to be, as their growth habit is somewhat coarse and their blooming period is short. Still, they have a stately and unique beauty that deserves to be shown in open spaces, in shrubbery, or along their outer edges. Most of these plants are native to countries around the Mediterranean and thrive well in regular soils.

Lords and Ladies, Arum.—Mostly a tropical and sub–tropical family, some of which grow as far north as southern Europe. These are quite hardy in our gardens. The Italian Arum is well worthy of a place in the wild garden, from its fine foliage in winter. It should be placed in sheltered half–shady places where it would not suffer much from storms. The old Dragon plant (A. Dracontium) grows freely enough about the foot of rocks or walls in sandy, or dry, peaty[128] places. The nearly allied Arum Lily (Calla æthiopica) is quite hardy as a water and water–side plant in the southern counties of England and Ireland.

Lords and Ladies, Arum.—Primarily a tropical and subtropical family, some species can be found as far north as southern Europe. These plants are quite resilient in our gardens. The Italian Arum is definitely deserving of a spot in the wild garden due to its beautiful foliage in winter. It should be planted in sheltered, partly shaded areas where it won’t be heavily affected by storms. The old Dragon plant (A. Dracontium) grows readily at the base of rocks or walls in sandy or dry, peaty[128] locations. The closely related Arum Lily (Calla æthiopica) is also quite hardy as a water and waterside plant in the southern counties of England and Ireland.

Silkweed, Asclepias.—Usually vigorous perennials, with very curious and ornamental flowers, common in fields and on river banks in North America and Canada, where they sometimes become troublesome weeds. Of the species in cultivation, A. Cornuti and A. Douglasi could be naturalised easily in rich deep soil in wild places. The showy and dwarfer Asclepias tuberosa requires very warm sand soils to flower as well as in its own dry hills and fields. A good many of the hardy species are not introduced; for such the place is the wild garden. Some of them are water–side plants, such as A. incarnata, the Swamp Silkweed of the United States.

Silkweed, Asclepias.—Usually robust perennials with unique and attractive flowers, common in fields and along riverbanks in North America and Canada, where they can sometimes become invasive weeds. Among the species being cultivated, A. Cornuti and A. Douglasi could easily thrive in rich, deep soil in natural areas. The striking and shorter Asclepias tuberosa needs very warm sandy soil to bloom, just like it does in its own dry hills and fields. Many of the hardy species aren't cultivated yet; they belong in wild gardens. Some of them are water-loving plants, like A. incarnata, the Swamp Silkweed found in the United States.

Starwort, Aster.—A very large family of usually vigorous, often showy, and sometimes beautiful perennials, mostly with bluish or white flowers, chiefly natives of North America. Many of these, of an inferior order of beauty, used to be planted in our mixed borders, which they very much helped to bring into discredit, and they form a very good example of a class of plants for which the true place is the copse, or rough and half–cared–for places in shrubberies and copses, and by wood–walks, where they will grow as freely as any native weeds, and in many cases prove highly attractive in late summer and autumn. Such kinds as A. pyrensæus, Amellus, and turbinellus, are amongst the most ornamental perennials we have. With the Asters may be grouped the Galatellas, the Vernonias, and also the handsome and rather dwarf Erigeron speciosus, which, however, not being so tall, could not fight its way among such coarse vegetation as that in which the Asters may be grown. Associated with the Golden Rods (Solidago)—also common plants of the American woods and copses—the best of the Asters or Michaelmas Daisies will form a very interesting aspect of vegetation. It is that one sees in American woods in late summer and autumn when the Golden Rods and Asters are seen in bloom together. It is one of numerous aspects of the vegetation of other countries which the “wild garden” will make possible in gardens. To produce such effects the plants must, of course, be planted in some quantity in one part of a rather open wood, and not repeated all over the place or mixed up with many other things. Nearly 200 species are known, about 150 of which form part of the rich vegetation of North America. These fine plants inhabit that great continent, from Mexico—where a few are found—to the United States and Canada, where they abound, and even up to the regions altogether arctic of that quarter of the world.

Starwort, Aster.—A large family of usually vigorous, often showy, and sometimes beautiful perennials, mostly featuring bluish or white flowers, primarily native to North America. Many of these, which lack significant beauty, used to be planted in our mixed borders, unfortunately damaging their reputation. They serve as a great example of plants that truly belong in natural settings like woods, or in rough and less-maintained spots among shrubs and trees, where they can grow freely like native weeds, often becoming quite attractive in late summer and autumn. Varieties like A. pyrensæus, Amellus, and turbinellus are among the most ornamental perennials we have. The Asters can also be grouped with Galatellas, Vernonia, and the lovely, somewhat short Erigeron speciosus, which, lacking height, struggles to thrive amidst the taller Asters. When paired with Golden Rods (Solidago)—also common in American woods and clearings—the finest Asters or Michaelmas Daisies create an engaging scene in nature. This is the vibrant display seen in American woods during late summer and autumn when Golden Rods and Asters bloom together. It's an example of diverse global vegetation that a “wild garden” can replicate in our own gardens. To achieve these effects, plants should be planted in groups in a somewhat open area of the woods, avoiding random placements or mixing with too many other species. Nearly 200 species are known, about 150 of which thrive in North America's rich vegetation. These remarkable plants are found throughout that vast continent, from Mexico—where a few exist—to the United States and Canada, where they are plentiful, extending even into the arctic regions of that part of the world.

Milk Vetch, Astragalus.—An enormously numerous family of beautiful hardy plants, represented to but a very slight extent in our gardens, though hundreds of them are hardy, and many of them among the most pleasing of the many Pea flowers which adorn the hills and mountains of the northern world in Asia, Europe, and America. They are mostly suited for rocky or gravelly situations, or bare banks, though some of the taller species, like A. galegiformis, are stout enough to take care of themselves among the larger perennials. This plant is valuable for its handsome port and foliage, though its flowering qualities are not such as recommend it for the garden proper. The numerous species from the Mediterranean shores and islands could be successfully introduced on banks and slopes in our chalk districts and in rocky places. A. ponticus, a tall kind, and A. monspessulanus, a dwarf one, are both worth growing.

Milk Vetch, Astragalus.—This family includes a vast number of beautiful, hardy plants, but only a few are found in our gardens, even though many of them are resilient and some are among the most attractive of the Pea flowers that beautify the hills and mountains of northern Asia, Europe, and America. Most thrive in rocky or gravelly areas or on bare banks, while some taller species, like A. galegiformis, are robust enough to coexist with larger perennials. The plant is appreciated for its striking structure and foliage, even though its flowers aren't particularly suited for traditional gardens. Many species from the Mediterranean coasts and islands could thrive on banks and slopes in our chalky regions and rocky areas. A. ponticus, a tall variety, and A. monspessulanus, a shorter one, are both worth cultivating.

Masterwort, Astrantia.—This is an elegant genus, of which few species are known, five being European—found in Italy, Carinthia, Greece, and the centre of Europe—others from Northern Asia. They are among the few umbellates with attractive and distinct flowers, and yet they are rarely seen in gardens. In the wild garden they are quite at home among the Grass and medium–sized herbaceous plants, and partial shade prolongs their quaint beauty. In fact they are far more at home in the thin wood or copse than in the open exposed mixed border.

Masterwort, Astrantia.—This is a stylish genus with only a few known species, five of which are European—found in Italy, Carinthia, Greece, and central Europe—while others come from Northern Asia. They are among the few umbellifers with attractive and distinct flowers, yet they are seldom seen in gardens. In a wild garden, they fit right in among grass and medium-sized herbaceous plants, and partial shade enhances their unique beauty. In fact, they thrive much better in thin woods or copses than in open, exposed mixed borders.

Blue Rock Cress, Aubrietia.—Dwarf Alpine plants, with purplish flowers, quite distinct in aspect and hue from anything else grown in our gardens, and never perishing from any cause, except being overrun by coarser subjects. They are admirable for association with the Alyssums and Arabises in any position where the vegetation is very dwarf, or in rocky bare places. There are several species and varieties, all almost equally suitable, but not differing much in aspect or stature from each other. The Aubrietias come chiefly from the mountains of Greece, Asia Minor, and neighbouring countries. Wherever there is an old wall, or a sunk fence, or a bare bank, evergreen curtains may be formed of these plants, and in spring they will be sheeted with purple flowers, no matter how harsh the weather.

Blue Rock Cress, Aubrietia.—These are small alpine plants with purplish flowers that look quite different from anything else in our gardens and they won't die off except when crowded out by larger plants. They're great for pairing with Alyssums and Arabises in areas where the plants are very small or in rocky, bare spots. There are several species and varieties, all of which are similarly suitable and don’t differ much in appearance or size. The Aubrietias mainly come from the mountains of Greece, Asia Minor, and nearby regions. Wherever you have an old wall, a sunken fence, or a bare slope, you can create evergreen displays with these plants, and in the spring, they will be covered in purple flowers, regardless of how tough the weather is.

Great Birthwort, Aristolochia Sipho.—A noble plant for covering arbours, banks, stumps of old trees, etc., also wigwam–like bowers, formed with branches of trees. It is American, and will grow as high as thirty feet, A. tomentosa is distinct and not so large in leaf. These will scarcely be grown for their flowers; but for covering stumps or trees they are valuable, and afford a distinct type of foliage.

Great Birthwort, Aristolochia Sipho.—A fantastic plant for covering arbors, slopes, old tree stumps, and even wigwam-like structures made from branches. It’s native to America and can grow up to thirty feet high. A. tomentosa is a different variety and has smaller leaves. While these plants aren’t mainly grown for their flowers, they are valuable for covering stumps or trees and provide a unique type of foliage.

Virginian Creepers, Ampelopsis.—Although this chapter is mostly devoted to herbaceous plants, the Virginian Creeper and its allies are so useful for forming curtains in rocky places, ravines, or over old trees, that they deserve mention here. These plants are not very distant relations of the vine—the wild American vines which are worthy of a place in our groves, garlanding trees as they do in a grand way. Some noble in colour of leaf are grown in nurseries—U. Humboldti being remarkable both for colour and size of leaf.

Virginian Creepers, Ampelopsis.—Even though this chapter mainly focuses on herbaceous plants, the Virginian Creeper and its relatives are so great for creating green curtains in rocky areas, ravines, or over old trees that they deserve a mention here. These plants are not too distantly related to the vine—the wild American vines that deserve a spot in our groves, draping trees in a magnificent way. Some varieties with impressive leaf colors are cultivated in nurseries—U. Humboldti stands out for both its leaf color and size.

Bamboo, Bambusa.—In many parts of England, Ireland, and Wales, various kinds of Bamboos are perfectly hardy, and not only hardy, but thrive freely. In cold, dry, and inland districts, it is true, they grow with difficulty—all the greater reason for making the best use of them where they grow freely. Their beauty is the more precious from their being wholly distinct in habit from any other plants or shrubs that we grow. The delicate feathering of the young, tall, and slender shoots, the charming arching of the stems, have often been fertile in suggestion to the Japanese artist, and often adorn his best work. They may be enjoyed with all the charms of life in many gardens. The wild garden, where the climate is suitable, is the best home for Bamboos. They are so tall and so enduring at the roots that they will take care of themselves among the tallest and strongest plants or bushes, and the partial shelter of the thin wood or copse preserves their abundant leaves from violent and cold winds. Along by quiet Grass walks, in sheltered dells, in little bogs, in the shrubbery, or in little lawns opened in woods for the formation of wild gardens, the Bamboo will be at home. The commonest kind is that generally known as Arundinaria falcata (sometimes called Bambusa gracilis); but others, such as Bambusa Metake, B. Simmonsi, and B. viridis–glaucescens, are of equal or greater value. They all delight in rich, light, and moist soils.

Bamboo, Bambusa.—In many areas of England, Ireland, and Wales, different types of Bamboo are completely hardy, and not only that, but they also thrive easily. It's true that in cold, dry, and inland regions, they struggle to grow—making it even more important to fully utilize them where they flourish. Their beauty is especially valued because they are completely different in nature from any other plants or shrubs we grow. The delicate feathering of the young, tall, and slender shoots, along with the lovely arching of the stems, have often inspired Japanese artists and frequently enhance their finest works. They can be enjoyed in many gardens with all the joys of nature. The wild garden, where the climate is right, is the ideal home for Bamboos. They are so tall and with such strong roots that they can thrive among the tallest and most robust plants or bushes, and the partial shelter of nearby thin woods or copses keeps their abundant leaves safe from harsh and cold winds. Bamboo will feel at home along peaceful grass paths, in sheltered valleys, in small bogs, in shrubbery, or in little lawns cleared in woods for wild gardens. The most common type is typically known as Arundinaria falcata (sometimes called Bambusa gracilis); however, others like Bambusa Metake, B. Simmonsi, and B. viridis–glaucescens, are equally or even more valuable. They all thrive in rich, light, and moist soils.

Baptisia.—A strong Lupin–like plant seldom grown in gardens, but beautiful when in bloom for its long blue racemes of pea flowers, growing three to four feet high; it will hold its own in strong soil.

Baptisia.—A robust plant similar to lupins that's rarely cultivated in gardens, but stunning when it blooms with long blue racemes of pea flowers, reaching three to four feet tall; it thrives well in rich soil.

Borage, Borago.—A genus seldom seen out of Botanic gardens, where they form part of the usual distressing arrangements honoured with the name of “scientific.” Among the best kinds for our purpose are B. cretica and B. orientalis, even the well–known annual kind will be found a pretty plant, naturalised and useful for covering mounds.

Borage, Borago.—A genus rarely found outside of botanical gardens, where they are part of the usual frustrating setups labeled “scientific.” Some of the best varieties for our needs are B. cretica and B. orientalis; even the popular annual type can be a nice plant, adapted and helpful for covering mounds.

Bell–flower, Campanula.—Beautiful and generally blue–flowered[131] herbs, varying from a few inches to 4 ft. in height, and abundantly scattered in northern and temperate countries. Many kinds are in cultivation. All the medium–sized and large kinds thrive very well in rough places, woods, copses, or shrubberies, among grasses and other herbaceous plants; while those smaller in size than our own harebell (C. rotundifolia) are quite at home, and very pretty, on any arid or bare surfaces, such as sandy banks, chalk pits, and even high up on old walls, ruins, etc. In such positions the seeds have only to be scattered. C. rapunculoides and C. lamiifolia do finely in shrubberies or copses, as, indeed, do all the tall–growing kinds. Where there are white varieties they should be secured; many people will begin to see the great beauty of this family for the first time when they see them growing among the grass or herbs. The effect is far more beautiful than can be obtained in the garden proper.

Bellflower, Campanula.—Beautiful and usually blue-flowered[131] herbs, ranging from a few inches to 4 feet tall, and widely found in northern and temperate regions. Many varieties are cultivated. All the medium-sized and larger types do really well in rough spots, woods, underbrush, or shrub areas, amidst grasses and other herbaceous plants; while those smaller than our own harebell (C. rotundifolia) thrive beautifully on dry or bare surfaces, like sandy banks, chalk pits, and even high up on old walls, ruins, etc. In these places, the seeds just need to be scattered. C. rapunculoides and C. lamiifolia grow well in shrubberies or underbrush, as do all the taller types. If there are white varieties, they should be collected; many people will start to recognize the stunning beauty of this family for the first time when they see them growing among grass or herbs. The effect is much more beautiful than what can be achieved in an actual garden.

Red Valerian, Centranthus ruber.—This showy and pleasing plant is only seen in highest perfection on elevated banks, rubbish–heaps, or old walls, in which positions it endures much longer than on the level ground, and becomes a long–lived perennial with a shrubby base. On the long bridge across the Nore at Col. Tighe’s place, Woodstock, Kilkenny, it grows in abundance, forming a long line on the wall above the arches; of course it could be easily grown on ruins, while it is invaluable for banks of all kinds, chalk pits, etc., and also for the level ground, except in heavy cold soils. Some of the larger Valerianas would grow freely in rough places, but none of them are so distinct as the preceding.

Red Valerian, Centranthus ruber.—This attractive and vibrant plant thrives best on elevated banks, debris piles, or old walls, where it lasts much longer than on flat ground, eventually becoming a long-lasting perennial with a bushy base. At Col. Tighe’s place, Woodstock, Kilkenny, it flourishes abundantly on the long bridge across the Nore, creating an impressive line along the wall above the arches. It can also be easily cultivated on ruins and is incredibly useful for various types of banks, chalk pits, and even level ground, as long as the soil isn’t heavy and cold. Some of the larger Valerianas can grow well in rough spots, but none are as unique as this one.

Knap–weed, Centaurea.—Vigorous perennial or annual herbaceous plants, seldom so pretty as autumn–sown plants of our corn bluebottle (C. Cyanus). They are scarcely important enough for borders; hence the wild wood is the place for them. Among the most suitable kinds may be mentioned macrocephala, montana, babylonica, and uniflora, the last more suitable for banks, etc.

Knap–weed, Centaurea.—Strong perennial or annual herbaceous plants, rarely as attractive as the autumn-sown corn bluebottle (C. Cyanus). They aren't usually significant enough for borders; therefore, the wild woods are their ideal habitat. Some of the best varieties include macrocephala, montana, babylonica, and uniflora, with the last being more appropriate for slopes and similar areas.

Mouse–ear, Cerastium.—Dwarf spreading perennials, bearing a profusion of white flowers. Half a dozen or more of the kinds have silvery leaves, which, with their flowers, give them an attractive character. Most of these are used as bedding plants, but, as they will grow in any position where they are not choked by coarser plants, they may be employed with good effect in the wild garden.

Mouse–ear, Cerastium.—These are dwarf, spreading perennials that produce a lot of white flowers. Several varieties have silvery leaves, which, along with their flowers, make them quite appealing. While most of these are used as bedding plants, they can thrive in any spot that isn’t overcrowded by larger plants, making them effective choices for a wild garden.

Wallflower, Cheiranthus.—The varieties of the common wallflower afford quite a store of beauty in themselves for the embellishment of rocky places, old walls, etc. Probably other species of[132] Cheiranthus will be found to grow on ruins quite as well, but at present we are not quite sure of these. The clear yellow Erysimum ochroleucum is very like a wallflower in type, and thrives well in dry sandy places. With these might be associated Vesicaria utriculata.ill132

Wallflower, Cheiranthus.—The different kinds of common wallflower are really beautiful and can enhance rocky areas, old walls, and similar spots. It's likely that other species of [132] Cheiranthus can also grow on ruins just as well, but we’re not entirely sure about that yet. The bright yellow Erysimum ochroleucum looks a lot like a wallflower and does really well in dry sandy areas. Along with these, you could also find Vesicaria utriculata.ill132

The foliage of the Meadow Saffron in Spring.

The leaves of the Meadow Saffron in spring.

Meadow Saffron, Colchicum.—In addition to the meadow saffron, plentifully dotted over the moist fields in various parts of England, there are several other species which could be readily naturalised in almost any soil and position. They would be particularly desirable where subjects that flower in autumn would be sought; and they are charming, seen in tufts or colonies on the lawn or in the pleasure–ground.

Meadow Saffron, Colchicum.—Besides the meadow saffron, which is commonly found in the wet fields across different areas of England, there are a number of other species that could easily be grown in almost any soil and location. They would be especially appealing for those looking for plants that bloom in the fall, and they look lovely when grouped together in clusters on the lawn or in garden areas.

Crocus.—One or two Crocuses are naturalised in England already, and there is scarcely one of them that will not succeed thus if properly placed. They should not be placed where coarse vegetation would choke them up or prevent the sun getting to their flowers and leaves. Some of the delicately–tinted varieties of vernus are well worth dotting about in grassy places and on sunny slopes, if only to accompany the snowdrop. C. Imperati is a valuable early–flowering kind, and the autumnal flowering ones are particularly desirable; but we must not particularise where all are good. “In the plantations here,” writes a correspondent, “on each side of a long avenue, we have the common Crocus in every shade of purple (there are scarcely any yellow ones) growing literally in hundreds of thousands. We have no record of when the roots were originally planted (and the oldest people about the estate say they have always been the same as far as their recollection goes); but they grow so thickly that it is quite impossible to step where they are without treading on two or three flowers. The effect produced by them in spring is magnificent, but unfortunately, their beauty is but short–lived. I have transplanted a good many roots to the wild garden, to the great[133] improvement of the size of the individual blooms; they are so matted together in the shrubberies I have mentioned, and have remained so long in the same place, that the flowers are small.”ill133

Crocus.—One or two Crocuses are already naturalized in England, and almost all of them will thrive if planted in the right spots. They shouldn't be placed where thick plants will choke them or block sunlight from reaching their flowers and leaves. Some of the gently colored varieties of vernus are great to scatter in grassy areas and sunny hillsides, especially to complement the snowdrop. C. Imperati is a valuable early-blooming type, and the ones that bloom in autumn are especially sought after; but it's hard to single out any since they’re all good. "In the plantations here," writes a correspondent, "along each side of a long avenue, we have common Crocus in every shade of purple (there are hardly any yellow ones) growing literally in hundreds of thousands. We don’t have any record of when the roots were originally planted (and the oldest people on the estate say they’ve always been there as far as they can remember); but they grow so densely that it’s impossible to step anywhere without treading on two or three flowers. The effect they create in spring is stunning, but unfortunately, their beauty is short-lived. I’ve moved quite a few roots to the wild garden, which has greatly improved the size of the individual blooms; they are so tangled together in the shrubs I mentioned, and have been in the same spot for so long, that the flowers are small.”[133]ill133

The White–flowered European Clematis (C. erecta).

The white-flowered European Clematis (C. erecta).

Virgin’s Bower, Clematis.—Mostly climbing or trailing plants, free, often luxuriant, sometimes rampant, in habit, with bluish, violet, purple, white, or yellow flowers, produced most profusely, and sometimes deliciously fragrant. They are most suited for covering stumps, planting on rocky places, among low shrubs in copses, for draping over the faces of rocks, sunny banks, or the brows of sunk fences, covering objectionable railings, rough bowers, chalk pits, hedges, etc., and occasionally for isolating in large tufts in open spaces where their effect could be seen from a distance. Not particular as to soil, the stronger kinds will grow in any ground, but the large–flowered new hybrids will thrive best in warm, rich, deep soil.

Virgin’s Bower, Clematis.—These are mainly climbing or trailing plants that grow freely, often lush, and sometimes wildly, featuring bluish, violet, purple, white, or yellow flowers that bloom abundantly and can be pleasantly fragrant. They’re ideal for covering stumps, planting in rocky areas, mingling with low shrubs in wooded spots, draping over rocks, sunny slopes, or the tops of sunken fences, concealing unsightly railings, rough arbors, chalk pits, hedges, and occasionally for creating large clusters in open areas where their beauty can be appreciated from afar. They aren’t picky about soil; the hardier types can thrive in any ground, but the large-flowered new hybrids do best in warm, rich, deep soil.

C. Viorna, C. flammula, montana, campaniflora, Viticella, and cirrhosa, must not be omitted from a selection of the wild kinds. The new garden hybrids will also be useful.

C. Viorna, C. flammula, montana, campaniflora, Viticella, and cirrhosa shouldn't be left out of a selection of the wild varieties. The new garden hybrids will also be beneficial.

Dwarf Cornel, Cornus canadensis.—This charming little bushy plant, singularly beautiful from its white bracts, is a very attractive subject for naturalisation in moist, sandy, or peaty spots, in which our native heaths, Mitchella repens, Linnæa borealis, and the Butterworts would be likely to thrive. It would also grow well in moist woods, where the herbaceous vegetation is dwarf.

Dwarf Cornel, Cornus canadensis.—This lovely little bushy plant, particularly stunning due to its white bracts, is a great choice for naturalization in moist, sandy, or peaty areas, where our native heaths, Mitchella repens, Linnæa borealis, and the Butterworts can flourish. It would also thrive in damp woodlands with low herbaceous vegetation.

Mocassin Flower, Cypripedium spectabile.—The noblest of hardy orchids, found far north in America, and thriving perfectly in England and Ireland in deep rich or vegetable soil. Wherever the soil is not naturally peat or rich vegetable matter this fine plant will succeed on the margins of beds of rhododendrons, etc. It should be sheltered by surrounding bushes, and be in a moist position. Others of the genus, and various other hardy orchids, are worthy of naturalisation; but the mocassin flower is the best as well as the most easily tried at present.

Moccasin Flower, Cypripedium spectabile.—The finest of hardy orchids, found far north in America, and thriving perfectly in England and Ireland in deep, rich or organic soil. Wherever the soil isn’t naturally peat or rich in organic matter, this beautiful plant will do well at the edges of rhododendron beds, among other plants. It should be protected by surrounding bushes and placed in a moist area. Other species in the genus, as well as various other hardy orchids, are worthy of introduction; however, the moccasin flower is the best and currently the easiest to grow.

Sowbread, Cyclamen.—It was the sight of a grove nearly covered[134] with Cyclamen hederæfolium, near Montargis, in France, that first turned my attention to the “Wild Garden.” Both C. hederæfolium and C. europæum may be naturalised with the greatest ease on light, loamy, or other warm and open soil. C. vernum, C. Coum, and C. repandum, are also well worthy of trial. Nothing can be more agreeable to the lover of hardy plants than endeavouring to naturalise these charming flowers, now rarely seen out of the greenhouse. The best positions would be among dwarf shrubs, etc., that would afford slight shelter, on banks or sunny open spots in copses or woods. Bare or dug borders they abhor, and a sunny warm exposure should be chosen. In the case of C. hederæfolium (and perhaps some of the others) ground under trees, bare, or with a very scant vegetation of herbs, etc., would do quite well if the soil were free and warm. There is scarcely a country seat in England in which the hardy Cyclamens, now almost entirely neglected by the gardener, could not be naturalised.

Sowbread, Cyclamen.—It was the sight of a grove nearly covered[134] with Cyclamen hederæfolium, near Montargis, in France, that first caught my eye about the “Wild Garden.” Both C. hederæfolium and C. europæum can easily be naturalized in light, loamy, or other warm and open soil. C. vernum, C. Coum, and C. repandum are also worth trying. Nothing delights a fan of hardy plants more than the challenge of naturalizing these beautiful flowers, which are now rarely seen outside of greenhouses. The best locations would be among dwarf shrubs and such, providing a bit of shelter, on banks or sunny open areas in wooded spots. They really dislike bare or tilled borders, so a sunny, warm exposure is essential. For C. hederæfolium (and maybe some others), ground under trees that is bare or has very little vegetation can work well as long as the soil is warm and loose. There’s hardly a country estate in England where hardy Cyclamens, now almost completely overlooked by gardeners, couldn’t be naturalized.

Cyclamens in the wild garden; from nature.

Cyclamens in the wild garden; from nature.

The Giant Sea–kale, Crambe.—“C. cordifolia is a very fine perennial, but its place is on the turf in rich soil. It has enormous leaves, and small whitish flowers in panicles. Here it is one of the finest ornaments in a wild garden of about five acres, associated with Rheums, Ferulas, Gunneras, Centaurea babylonica, Arundo Donax, Acanthus, and others.”

The Giant Sea–kale, Crambe.—“C. cordifolia is a really impressive perennial, but it belongs on the grass in rich soil. It has huge leaves and small whitish flowers in clusters. Here, it’s one of the best features in a wild garden of around five acres, alongside Rheums, Ferulas, Gunneras, Centaurea babylonica, Arundo Donax, Acanthus, and other plants.”

Bindweed, Calystegia.—Climbing plants, with handsome white or rosy flowers, often too vigorous in constitution to be agreeable in gardens, as is the case with our common bindweed. C. dahurica, somewhat larger than the common kind, is very handsome when allowed[135] to trail through shrubs, in rough places, or over stumps, rustic bridges, etc., and doubtless sundry other species will in time be found equally useful.

Bindweed, Calystegia.—Climbing plants with beautiful white or pink flowers, often too vigorous to be pleasant in gardens, like our common bindweed. C. dahurica, which is somewhat larger than the common variety, looks great when it’s allowed to trail through shrubs, in wild areas, or over stumps, rustic bridges, etc. It's likely that several other species will also be found to be just as useful over time.

The pretty little Rosy Bindweed that one meets often upon the shores of the Mediterranean is here depicted at home in an English garden, creeping up the leaves of an Iris in Mr. Wilson’s garden at Heatherbank, Weybridge Heath. It is a great privilege we have of being able to grow the fair flowers of so many regions in our own, and without caring for them in the sense, and with the troubles that attend other living creatures in menageries, aviaries, etc. This is an advantage that we do not evidently consider when we put a few plants in lines and circles only, oblivious of the infinite beauty and variety of the rest. This beautiful pink Bindweed is the representative, so to speak, of our own Rosy Field Bindweed in the south, but nevertheless it is perfectly hardy and free in our own soils. Its botanical name is Convolvulus althæoides.ill135

The lovely Rosy Bindweed that you often see along the Mediterranean coast is shown here thriving in an English garden, climbing up the leaves of an Iris in Mr. Wilson’s garden at Heatherbank, Weybridge Heath. We have the great privilege of being able to grow beautiful flowers from so many regions right in our own backyards, without the hassle that comes with caring for other living creatures in zoos, aviaries, etc. This is an advantage we don’t really appreciate when we just plant a few flowers in straight lines and circles, unaware of the endless beauty and variety all around us. This pretty pink Bindweed represents our own Rosy Field Bindweed from the south, but it’s perfectly hardy and grows freely in our soil. Its botanical name is Convolvulus althæoides.ill135

A South European Bindweed creeping up the stems of an Iris in an English garden.

A Southern European Bindweed climbing up the stems of an Iris in an English garden.

Marsh Calla, Calla palustris.—A creeping Arum–like plant, with white flowers showing above a carpet of glossy leaves, admirable for naturalisation in muddy places, moist bogs, on the margins of ponds, etc.

Marsh Calla, Calla palustris.—A creeping plant similar to Arum, featuring white flowers that rise above a blanket of shiny leaves. It's great for naturalizing in muddy areas, wet bogs, and along the edges of ponds, etc.

Rosy Coronilla, Coronilla varia.—Europe. On grassy banks, stony heaps, rough rocky ground, spreading over slopes or any like positions. A very fine plant for naturalisation, thriving in any soil.

Rosy Coronilla, Coronilla varia.—Europe. It grows on grassy banks, rocky piles, and rough terrain, spreading over slopes or similar areas. It's an excellent plant for naturalization, thriving in any type of soil.

Giant Scabious, Cephalaria.—Allied to Scabious but seldom grown. They are worth a place in the wild garden for their fine vigour alone, and the numerous pale yellow flowers will be admired by those who do not limit their admiration to showy colours.

Giant Scabious, Cephalaria.—Related to Scabious but rarely cultivated. They deserve a spot in the wild garden for their impressive strength, and the many pale yellow flowers will be appreciated by those who enjoy more than just bright colors.

Coral–wort, Dentaria.—Very showy perennials, the purplish or white flowers of which present somewhat of the appearance of a stockflower, quite distinct both in habit and bloom, and very rarely seen[136] in our gardens; they will be found to thrive well and look well in peat soil beneath rhododendrons, and towards the margins of clumps of American shrubs.

Coral–wort, Dentaria.—These are striking perennials, with purplish or white flowers that resemble stockflowers. They are quite unique in both growth and bloom and are rarely found in our gardens. They tend to thrive and look good in peat soil under rhododendrons and along the edges of groups of American shrubs.[136]

Leopard’s Bane, Doronicum.—Stout, medium–sized, or dwarf perennials, with hardy and vigorous constitutions, and very showy flowers; well suited for naturalisation among herbaceous vegetation, in any position where the beauty of their early bloom can be enjoyed.

Leopard’s Bane, Doronicum.—Strong, medium-sized, or small perennials with robust and vigorous growth, featuring very striking flowers; ideal for naturalizing among herbaceous plants, in any spot where you can appreciate the beauty of their early blossoms.

American Cowslip, Dodecatheon.—All who care for hardy flowers admire the beautiful American cowslip (D. Meadia), found in rich woods in Pennsylvania, Ohio, to Wisconsin and south–westward, in America. This would be a charming plant to naturalise on rich and light sandy loams, among dwarf herbs, low shrubs, etc., in sheltered and sunny spots. Jeffrey’s American cowslip (D. Jeffreyanum), a vigorous–growing kind, is also well worth a trial in this way, though as yet it is hardly plentiful enough to be spared for this purpose.

American Cowslip, Dodecatheon.—Anyone who loves hardy flowers appreciates the beautiful American cowslip (D. Meadia), which grows in rich woods from Pennsylvania and Ohio to Wisconsin and southwestward across the U.S. This would be a lovely plant to naturalize in rich, light sandy soils, among small herbs, low shrubs, etc., in sheltered, sunny areas. Jeffrey’s American cowslip (D. Jeffreyanum), a robust variety, is also worth trying in this way, although it's still not common enough to be taken for this purpose.

Fumitory, Fumaria, Dielytra.—Plants with graceful leaves and gay flowers suited for association with dwarf subjects on open banks, except D. spectabilis, which in deep peat or other rich soil will grow a yard high. The simple–looking little Fumaria bulbosa is one of the dwarf subjects which thrive very well under the branches of specimen deciduous trees, and Corydalis lutea thrives in every position from the top of an old castle to the bottom of a well shaft. I saw Dielytra eximia naturalised in Buckhurst Park, in a shrubbery, the position shady. Its effect was most charming, the plumy tufts being dotted all over with flowers. Had I before wished to naturalise this, I should have put it on open slopes, or among dwarf plants, but it thrives and spreads about with the greatest freedom in shady spots. The blossoms, instead of being of the usual crimson hue, were of a peculiar delicate pale rose, no doubt owing to the shade; and, as they gracefully drooped over the elegantly–cut leaves, they looked like snowdrops of a faint rosy hue.

Fumitory, Fumaria, Dielytra.—These are plants with delicate leaves and vibrant flowers that work well alongside shorter plants on open banks, except for D. spectabilis, which can grow up to a yard tall in rich peat or other fertile soil. The seemingly simple Fumaria bulbosa is a dwarf plant that does quite well under the branches of specimen deciduous trees,

Delphinium, Perennial species.—Tall and beautiful herbaceous plants, with flowers of many exquisite shades of blue and purple. There are now numerous varieties. They are well suited for rich soil in glades, copses, thin shrubberies, or among masses of dwarf shrubs, above which their fine spikes of bloom might here and there arise.

Delphinium, Perennial species.—These are tall and stunning herbaceous plants, featuring flowers in a variety of beautiful shades of blue and purple. There are now many varieties available. They thrive in rich soil found in clearings, wooded areas, sparse bushes, or among clusters of low shrubs, where their elegant flower spikes can stand out.

One of the prettiest effects which I have ever seen among naturalised plants was a colony of tall Larkspurs (Delphiniums). Portions of old roots of several species and varieties had been chopped off where a bed of these plants was being dug in the autumn. For convenience sake the refuse had been thrown into the neighbouring[137] shrubbery, far in among the shrubs and tall trees. Here they grew in certain half–open little spaces, which were so far removed from the margin that they were not dug and were not seen. When I saw the Larkspurs in flower they were certainly the loveliest things that one could see. They were more beautiful than they are in borders or beds, not growing in such close stiff tufts, and mingling with and relieved by the trees above and the shrubs around. Little more need be said to any one who knows and cares about such plants, and has an opportunity of planting in such neglected places. This case points out pretty clearly that one might make wild gardens from the mere parings and thinnings of the beds and borders in autumn, in any place where there is a collection of good hardy plants. The cut on p. 28 does scant justice to the scene, which, perhaps, it is not in the power of wood engraving to illustrate.

One of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen among naturalized plants was a group of tall Larkspurs (Delphiniums). Some old roots from different species and varieties had been cut off while a patch of these plants was being dug up in the autumn. For convenience, the leftover pieces were tossed into the nearby[137] shrubbery, deep among the shrubs and tall trees. They grew in a few open spots that were so far back from the edge that they weren't disturbed and went unnoticed. When I saw the Larkspurs in bloom, they were definitely the most stunning things around. They were more beautiful than when they grow in borders or beds, not cramped into stiff bunches, and surrounded by the trees above and the shrubs around. There's not much more to say to anyone who appreciates these plants and has a chance to plant in such overlooked areas. This example clearly shows that you could create wild gardens from the simple leftovers and thinnings of the beds and borders in autumn, anywhere there's a collection of hardy plants. The image on p. 28 doesn't do the scene justice, which may be beyond what wood engraving can capture.

Pink, Dianthus.—A numerous race of beautiful dwarf mountain plants, with flowers mostly of various shades of rose, sometimes sporting into other colours in cultivation. The finer mountain kinds would be likely to thrive only on bare stony or rocky ground, and amidst very dwarf vegetation. The bright D. neglectus would thrive in any ordinary soil. Some of the kinds in the way of our own D. cæsius grow well on old walls and ruins, as do the single carnations and pinks; indeed, it is probable that many kinds of pink would thrive on ruins and old walls better far than on the ground.

Pink, Dianthus.—This is a large group of beautiful dwarf mountain plants, with flowers mostly in various shades of pink, sometimes showing other colors when cultivated. The more delicate mountain varieties are likely to thrive only on bare, stony, or rocky ground, and among very low vegetation. The vibrant D. neglectus can do well in any regular soil. Some types, similar to our own D. cæsius, grow well on old walls and ruins, just like single carnations and pinks; in fact, it’s likely that many types of pink would do much better on ruins and old walls than in the ground.

Foxglove, Digitalis.—It need not be said here that our own stately Foxglove should be encouraged in the wild garden, particularly in districts where it does not naturally grow wild; I allude to it here to point out that there are a number of exotic species for which a place might be found in the wild garden—some of them are not very satisfactory otherwise. The most showy hardy flowers of midsummer are the Foxglove and the French willow (Epilobium angustifolium), and in wild or rough places in shrubberies, etc., their effect is beautiful. In such half shady places the Foxglove thrives best; and, as the French willow is much too rampant a plant for the garden proper, the proper place for it too is in the wild garden. It is a most showy plant, and masses of it may be seen great distances off. The delicately and curiously spotted varieties of the Foxglove should be sown as well as the ordinary wild form.

Foxglove, Digitalis.—It goes without saying that our impressive Foxglove should be promoted in the wild garden, especially in areas where it doesn’t grow naturally. I mention it here to highlight that there are several exotic species that could have a place in the wild garden—some of them are not very appealing otherwise. The most striking hardy flowers of midsummer are the Foxglove and the French willow (Epilobium angustifolium), and they look stunning in wild or rugged spots in shrubberies, etc. The Foxglove thrives best in such semi-shaded areas; and since the French willow grows too aggressively for a traditional garden, the wild garden is also the perfect spot for it. It’s a very eye-catching plant, and you can see large clusters from quite a distance. The delicately and uniquely spotted varieties of the Foxglove should be sown alongside the regular wild form.

Hemp Agrimony, Eupatorium.—Vigorous perennials, with white or purple fringed flowers. Some of the American kinds might well be associated with our own wild one—the white kinds, like[138] aromaticum and ageratoides, being very beautiful and distinct, and well worthy of a place in the best parts of the wild garden.

Hemp Agrimony, Eupatorium.—Strong perennials with white or purple fringed flowers. Some of the American varieties would fit nicely alongside our own native wild ones—the white types, like[138] aromaticum and ageratoides, are very attractive and unique, making them deserving of a spot in the best areas of a wild garden.

Sea Holly, Eryngium.—Very distinct and noble–looking perennials, with ornamental and usually spiny leaves, and flowers in heads, sometimes surrounded by a bluish involucrum, and supported on stems of a fine amethystine blue. They would be very attractive on margins of shrubberies and near wood–walks, thrive in ordinary free soil, and will take care of themselves among tall grasses and all but the most vigorous herbs.

Sea Holly, Eryngium.—Very unique and striking perennials, featuring decorative and typically spiky leaves, and flowers grouped in heads, often surrounded by a bluish bract, supported on stems of a lovely amethyst blue. They would look great at the edges of shrub beds and near walking paths, thrive in regular soil, and can manage on their own among tall grasses and all but the most aggressive weeds.

Heath, Erica, Menziesia.—Our own heathy places are pretty rich in this type, but the brilliant Erica carnea is so distinct and attractive that it well deserves naturalisation among them. The beautiful St. Daboec’s heath (Menziesia polifolia) deserves a trial in the same way, as, though found in the west of Ireland, it is to the majority of English gardens an exotic plant. It will grow almost anywhere in peaty soil.

Heath, Erica, Menziesia.—Our local heath areas have a good variety of this type, but the striking Erica carnea is so unique and appealing that it truly deserves to be naturalized among them. The lovely St. Daboec’s heath (Menziesia polifolia) also deserves a chance for the same reason; even though it's found in western Ireland, it's considered an exotic plant in most English gardens. It can thrive almost anywhere in peaty soil.

Barren–wort, Epimedium.—Interesting and very distinct, but comparatively little known perennials, with pretty and usually delicately tinted flowers, and singular and ornamental foliage. They are most suitable for peaty or free moist soils, in sheltered positions, among low shrubs on rocky banks, etc., and near the eye. The variety called E. pinnatum elegans, when in deep peat soil, forms tufts of leaves nearly a yard high, and in spring is adorned with long racemes of pleasing yellow flowers, so that it is well worthy of naturalisation where the soil is suitable.ill138

Barren–wort, Epimedium.—These are interesting and unique perennials, although they are relatively unknown. They produce attractive, often delicately colored flowers and have distinct, decorative foliage. They thrive best in peaty or well-drained moist soils, preferably in sheltered areas among low shrubs, on rocky slopes, and other visible spots. The variety E. pinnatum elegans, when planted in deep peat soil, grows clusters of leaves nearly three feet tall and in spring, it showcases long racemes of beautiful yellow flowers, making it a great choice for naturalization in suitable soil.ill138

A Sea Holly; Eryngium.

A Sea Holly; Eryngium.

Globe Thistle, Echinops.—Large and distinct perennials of fine port, from 3 feet to 6 feet high, with spiny leaves and numerous flowers in spherical heads. These will thrive well in almost any position, and hold their ground amid the coarsest vegetation. Being of a “type” quite distinct from that of our indigenous vegetation, they are more than usually suited for naturalisation. Echinops exaltatus and E. ruthenicus, are among the best kinds, the last the best in colour.

Globe Thistle, Echinops.—These are large and unique perennials that stand out, ranging from 3 to 6 feet tall, with spiky leaves and many flowers arranged in round heads. They can thrive in almost any location and can hold their own even among rougher plants. Since they have a “type” that is quite different from our native vegetation, they are especially well-suited for naturalization. Echinops exaltatus and E. ruthenicus are some of the best varieties, with the latter having the most vibrant color.

May–flower, Epigæa repens.—A small creeping shrub, with pretty and deliciously fragrant flowers, which appear soon after the melting[139] of the snow in N. America, and are there as welcome as the hawthorn with us. In its native country it inhabits woods, mostly in the shade of pines; and usually, wherever I saw it, it seemed to form a carpet under three or four layers of vegetation, so to speak—that is to say, it was beneath pines, medium–sized trees, tall bushes, and dwarf scrub about 18 in. high, while the plant itself was not more than one or two inches high. In our gardens this plant is very rarely seen, and even in the great American plant nurseries, where it used to grow it has disappeared. This is no wonder, when it is considered how very different are the conditions which it enjoys in gardens compared with those which I have above described. Without doubt it can be naturalised easily in pine woods on a sandy soil.

Mayflower, Epigæa repens.—A small creeping shrub with beautiful and wonderfully fragrant flowers that bloom shortly after the snow melts in North America, and they are as cherished there as hawthorn is with us. In its native habitat, it grows in woods, mostly in the shade of pines. Typically, wherever I encountered it, it seemed to create a carpet beneath three or four layers of vegetation, so to speak—that is, it was found under pines, medium-sized trees, tall bushes, and dwarf scrub about 18 inches high, while the plant itself was only one or two inches tall. In our gardens, this plant is rarely seen, and even in the large American nurseries where it once thrived, it has vanished. This is understandable, considering how different the conditions in gardens are compared to those I described above. Undoubtedly, it can be easily naturalized in sandy soil within pine woods.

Dog’s–tooth Violet, Erythronium.—A few days ago I saw a number of irregular clumps of these here and there on a gently sloping bank of turf, and, in front of clumps of evergreens, they looked quite charming, and their dark spotted leaves showed up to much better effect on the fresh green Grass than they do in borders. They were all of the red variety, and required a few of the white form among them to make the picture perfect.

Dog's-tooth Violet, Erythronium.—A few days ago, I noticed several uneven clusters of these scattered across a gently sloping grassy bank. In front of some evergreen clumps, they looked really beautiful, and their dark spotted leaves contrasted nicely with the fresh green grass, much better than they do in flower beds. They were all the red variety, and adding a few of the white ones would have made the scene perfect.

So writes a correspondent in Ireland. This beautiful plant, some years ago rarely seen in our gardens, adorns many a dreary slope in the Southern Alps, and there should be no great difficulty in the way of adding its charms to the wild garden in peaty or sandy spots, rather bare or under deciduous vegetation.

So writes a correspondent in Ireland. This beautiful plant, which a few years ago was rarely seen in our gardens, now brightens many dreary slopes in the Southern Alps. It shouldn't be too hard to include its beauty in the wild garden in peaty or sandy areas that are fairly barren or under deciduous trees.

The Winter Aconite, Eranthis hyemalis.—Classed among British plants but really naturalised. Its golden buttons peeping through the moss and grass in snowdrop time form one of the prettiest aspects of our garden vegetation in spring. It will grow anywhere, and is one of the plants that thrive under the spreading branches of summer–leafing trees, as it blooms and perfects its leaves before the buds open on the beech. On many lawns, spring gardens might be formed by planting some spring flowering plants that finish their growth before the trees are in leaf. Another advantage of such positions is, that the foliage of the tree prevents any coarser plants taking possession of the ground, and therefore these little spring plants have the ground to themselves, and wander into natural little groups in the moss and grass, sometimes covering the surface with a sheet of blossoms.

The Winter Aconite, Eranthis hyemalis.—Considered a British plant but actually naturalized. Its golden flowers peeking through the moss and grass during snowdrop season create one of the loveliest sights in our spring gardens. It can grow anywhere and is well-suited to thrive under the wide branches of summer trees, as it flowers and produces its leaves before the buds on the beech open. In many lawns, spring gardens could be established by planting some spring-flowering species that complete their growth before the trees leaf out. Another benefit of these locations is that the tree's foliage keeps larger plants from taking over, allowing these small spring plants to flourish on their own and form charming little clusters in the moss and grass, sometimes blanketing the ground with a layer of blooms.

Funkia.—I have spoken of the conditions in the wild garden being more suitable to many plants than those which obtain in what[140] might seem choice positions in borders, many of the plants attaining greater beauty and remaining longer in bloom in the shade and shelter of shrubby places than when fully exposed. As an instance of this, I saw Funkia cœrulea the other day, showing a size and beauty in a shady drive at Beauport, near Battle, which I never saw it attain under other circumstances. The plant was over a yard high, and bore many stately stems hung with blue flowers. The Funkias are exceedingly valuable plants for the wild garden, not being liable to accidents which are fatal to Lilies and other plants exposed to the attacks of slugs and rabbits.

Funkia.—I've mentioned that the conditions in a wild garden are often better for many plants than those in what might seem like ideal spots in borders. Many plants actually look more beautiful and stay in bloom longer in the shade and shelter of bushes than when they're fully exposed. For example, I saw Funkia cœrulea the other day, and it had a size and beauty in a shady path at Beauport, near Battle, that I’ve never seen it reach before. The plant was over a yard tall and had many impressive stems covered in blue flowers. Funkias are incredibly valuable for the wild garden, as they aren’t susceptible to the dangers that can be fatal for Lilies and other plants that are vulnerable to slugs and rabbits.

Groups of Funkia Sieboldi.

Groups of Funkia Sieboldii.

Snakes–head, Fritillaria.—The beautiful British snakes–head (F. Meleagris) grows wild, as most people know, in meadows in various parts of England, and we should like to see it as well established in the grassy hollows of many a country seat. Various other Fritillarias not so pretty as this, and of a peculiar livid dark hue, which is not like to make them popular in gardens, such as F. tristis, would be worthy of a position also; while the Crown Imperial would do on the fringes of shrubberies.

Snakes-head, Fritillaria.—The beautiful British snakes-head (F. Meleagris) grows naturally in meadows across various regions of England, and we would love to see it thriving in the grassy areas of many country estates. Other Fritillarias, although not as attractive and featuring a peculiar dark, dull color that might not win them favor in gardens, like F. tristis, also deserve a place; meanwhile, the Crown Imperial would look great at the edges of shrubbery.

Giant Fennel, Ferula.—Noble herbaceous plants belonging to the parsley order, with much and exquisitely divided leaves; when well developed forming magnificent tufts of verdure, reminding one of the most finely–cut ferns, but far larger. The leaves appear very early in spring, and disappear at the end of summer, and the best use that can be made of the plants is to plant them here and there in places occupied by spring and early summer flowers, among which[141] they would produce a very fine effect. With the Ferulas might be grouped another handsome umbelliferous plant (Molopospermum cicutarium); and no doubt, when we know the ornamental qualities of the order better, we shall find sundry other charming plants of similar character.

Giant Fennel, Ferula.—These are impressive herbaceous plants from the parsley family, featuring highly and beautifully divided leaves. When fully grown, they create stunning clusters of greenery that resemble finely cut ferns but are significantly larger. The leaves emerge early in spring and fade by the end of summer. The best way to utilize these plants is by placing them sporadically among spring and early summer flowers, where they would create a striking visual appeal. Alongside the Ferulas, you could also group another attractive umbelliferous plant (Molopospermum cicutarium); and undoubtedly, as we learn more about the ornamental features of this family, we will discover several other lovely plants that share similar traits.

Ferns.—No plants may be naturalised more successfully and with a more charming effect than ferns. The royal ferns, of which the bold foliage is reflected in the marsh waters of Northern America, will do well in the many places where our own royal fern thrives. The graceful maidenhair fern of the rich woods of the Eastern States and the Canadas will thrive perfectly in any cool, shady, narrow lane, or dyke, or in a shady wood. The small ferns that find a home on arid alpine cliffs may be established on old walls and ruins. Cheilanthes odora, which grows so freely on the sunny sides of walls in Southern France, would be well worth trying in similar positions in the south of England, the spores to be sown in mossy chinks of the walls. The climbing fern Lygodium palmatum, which goes as far north as cold Massachusetts, would twine its graceful stems up the undershrubs in an English wood too. In fact, there is no fern of the numbers that inhabit the northern regions of Europe, Asia, and America, that may not be tried with confidence in various positions, preferring for the greater number such positions as we know our native kinds to thrive best in. One could form a rich and stately type of wood–haunting fern vegetation without employing one of our native kinds at all, though, of course, generally the best way will be to associate all so far as their habits and sizes will permit. Treat them boldly; put strong kinds out in glades; imagine colonies of Daffodils among the Oak and Beech Ferns, fringed by early Aconite, in the spots overshadowed by the branches of deciduous trees. Then, again, many of these Ferns, the more delicate of them, could be used as the most graceful of carpets for bold beds or groups of flowering plants. They would form part, and a very important part, of what we have written of as evergreen herbaceous plants, and might well be associated with them in true winter gardens.ill141

Ferns.—No plants can be naturalized more effectively and with a more beautiful impact than ferns. The royal ferns, whose bold foliage is mirrored in the marshes of Northern America, will thrive in many of the same places as our own royal fern. The elegant maidenhair fern from the rich woods of the Eastern States and Canada will flourish perfectly in any cool, shady, narrow lane, dyke, or wood. The small ferns that live on dry alpine cliffs can be settled on old walls and ruins. Cheilanthes odora, which grows abundantly on the sunny sides of walls in Southern France, would be well worth trying in similar spots in southern England, with spores sown in mossy crevices of the walls. The climbing fern Lygodium palmatum, which reaches as far north as chilly Massachusetts, would also gracefully twine its stems around the undershrubs in an English wood. In fact, there’s no fern native to the northern regions of Europe, Asia, and America that can’t be confidently tried in various settings, preferring, for most, the environments where we know our native types thrive best. You could create a rich and regal style of woodland fern arrangement without using any of our native types at all, though generally, the best approach is to combine them as much as their habits and sizes allow. Use bold placements; position strong varieties in clearings; envision clusters of Daffodils among the Oak and Beech Ferns, outlined by early Aconite in areas shaded by the branches of deciduous trees. Moreover, many of these ferns, especially the more delicate ones, could serve as the most graceful carpets for vibrant beds or groups of flowering plants. They would be an essential element of what we've referred to as evergreen herbaceous plants and could be integrated with them in true winter gardens.ill141

A hardy Geranium.

A tough Geranium.

Geranium, Geranium, Erodium.—Handsome and[142] rather dwarf perennials, mostly with bluish, pinkish, or deep rose flowers, admirable for naturalisation. Some of the better kinds of the hardy geraniums, such as G. ibericum, are the very plants to take care of themselves on wild banks and similar places. With them might be associated the fine Erodium Manescavi; and where there are very bare places, on which they would not be overrun by coarser plants, the smaller Erodiums, such as E. romanum, might be tried with advantage.

Geranium, Geranium, Erodium.—These are attractive, somewhat compact perennials, mostly featuring bluish, pinkish, or deep rose flowers, great for naturalizing. Some of the hardier geraniums, like G. ibericum, thrive on wild banks and similar spots with little care. You could pair them with the lovely Erodium Manescavi; and in very bare areas where coarse plants won’t take over, trying the smaller Erodiums, such as E. romanum, could be beneficial.

Goat’s Rue, Galega.—Tall and vigorous but graceful perennials, with very numerous and handsome flowers, pink, blue, or white. G. officinalis and its white variety are among the very best of all tall border flowers, and they are equally useful for planting in rough and wild places, as is also the blue G. orientalis and G. biloba. They are all free growers.ill142

Goat’s Rue, Galega.—These are tall, strong, yet elegant perennials with a lot of beautiful flowers in pink, blue, or white. G. officinalis and its white variety are some of the best tall border flowers out there, and they also work well for planting in untamed and wild areas, just like the blue G. orientalis and G. biloba. They all grow freely.ill142

Snowdrops, wild, by streamlet in valley.

Snowdrops, growing wild, by the stream in the valley.

Gypsophila, Gypsophila and Tunica.—Vigorous but neat perennials, very hardy, and producing myriads of flowers, mostly small, and of a pale pinkish hue. They are best suited for rocky or sandy ground, or even old ruins, or any position where they will not be smothered by coarser vegetation. Similar in character is the pretty little Tunica saxifraga, which grows on the tops of old walls, etc., in Southern Europe, and will thrive on bare places on the level ground with us.

Gypsophila, Gypsophila and Tunica.—These are strong yet tidy perennials, very resilient, and they produce countless flowers, mostly small and light pink. They thrive best in rocky or sandy soil, or even in old ruins, or anywhere that they won’t be overwhelmed by tougher plants. A similar plant is the charming little Tunica saxifraga, which grows on top of old walls in Southern Europe and can also flourish in bare areas of flat ground here.

Gentian, Gentiana.—Dwarf, and usually evergreen, alpine or high–pasture plants, with large and numerous flowers, mostly handsome, and frequently of the most vivid and beautiful blue. The large G. acaulis[143] (Gentianella) would grow as freely in moist places on any of our own mountains as it does on its native hills; as, indeed, it would in all moist loams, where it could not be choked by coarse and taller subjects. The tall willow Gentian (G. asclepiadea) is a handsome plant, which, in the mountain woods of Switzerland, may be seen blooming among long grass in shade of trees, and this fact is suggestive as to its use in this country.

Gentian, Gentiana.—These are small, usually evergreen plants that grow in alpine or high-pasture environments. They have large and numerous flowers that are mostly attractive and often come in vibrant shades of blue. The large G. acaulis[143] (Gentianella) would thrive in moist areas on our mountains just as well as it does on its native hills; it would flourish in any moist soil as long as it isn't crowded out by larger and coarser plants. The tall willow Gentian (G. asclepiadea) is a striking plant that can be seen blooming in the shaded mountain woods of Switzerland, often among tall grass, which suggests its potential use in our own country.

Snowdrops, Galanthus.—The charms of our own Snowdrop when naturalised in the grass are well known to all, but many of the new kinds have claims also in that respect, such as Elwesi and G. plicatus. It is surprising how comparatively few people take advantage of the facility with which the Snowdrop grows in grass, so as to have it in pretty groups and colonies by grass–walks or drives. The accompanying illustration, which shows it on the margin of a streamlet in a Somersetshire valley, shows that it is not particular as to situation. It suggests the many places it may adorn other than the garden border.

Snowdrops, Galanthus.—Everyone knows how lovely our Snowdrop looks when it’s naturalized in the grass, but many of the new varieties, like Elwesi and G. plicatus, also have their own appeal. It's surprising how few people take advantage of how easily Snowdrops grow in grass, creating beautiful groups and colonies along pathways or driveways. The illustration alongside, which depicts them next to a stream in a Somerset valley, shows that they aren’t picky about where they thrive. It hints at all the other places they could enhance besides just garden borders.

Cow Parsnips, Heracleum.—Giant herbaceous plants, mostly from Northern Asia, with huge divided leaves, and umbels (sometimes a foot across) of white or whitish flowers. They are very suitable for rough places on the banks of rivers or artificial water, islands, or in any position in which a very vigorous and bold type of foliage may be desired. In arranging them it should be borne in mind that their foliage dies down and disappears in the end of summer. When established they sow themselves, so that seedling plants in abundance may be picked up around them. In all cases it is important that their seed should be sown immediately after being gathered. But it is also important not to allow them to monopolise the ground, as then they become objectionable. To this end it may, in certain positions, be desirable to prevent them seeding.

Cow Parsnips, Heracleum.—These are giant herbaceous plants, mostly from Northern Asia, featuring massive divided leaves and large umbels (sometimes up to a foot across) of white or pale flowers. They thrive in rough areas like riverbanks or artificial lakes, or anywhere that needs a bold, vigorous type of foliage. When arranging them, keep in mind that their leaves die back and disappear by the end of summer. Once they're established, they self-seed, so you'll find plenty of seedlings around them. It's crucial to sow their seeds right after collecting them. However, try to prevent them from taking over the ground, as that can become problematic. In some cases, it might be wise to stop them from seeding.

Day Lily, Hemerocallis.—Vigorous plants of the lily order, with long leaves and graceful habit, and large and showy red–orange or yellow flowers, sometimes scented as delicately as the primrose. There are two types, one large and strong like flava and fulva, the other short and somewhat fragile like graminea. The larger kinds are superb plants for naturalisation, growing in any soil, and taking care of themselves among coarse herbaceous plants or brambles.

Day Lily, Hemerocallis.—Robust plants of the lily family, featuring long leaves and an elegant form, with large and striking red-orange or yellow flowers, sometimes delicately fragrant like primrose. There are two varieties: one large and sturdy like flava and fulva, and the other short and somewhat delicate like graminea. The larger varieties are excellent for naturalization, thriving in any soil and managing themselves well among rough herbaceous plants or brambles.

Christmas Rose, Helleborus.—Stout but dwarf perennials, with showy blooms appearing in winter and spring when flowers are rare, and with handsome leathery and glossy leaves. They thrive in almost[144] any position or soil; but to get the full benefit of their early–blooming tendency it is desirable to place them on sunny grassy banks in tufts or groups, and not far from the eye, as they are usually of unobtrusive colours. They form beautiful ornaments near wild wood walks, where the spring sun can reach them. There are various kinds useful for naturalisation.ill144

Christmas Rose, Helleborus.—Sturdy but small perennials, featuring vibrant blooms that emerge in winter and spring when flowers are uncommon, along with attractive, leathery, glossy leaves. They flourish in nearly any position or soil; however, to fully enjoy their early blooming nature, it’s best to plant them in sunny grassy areas in clusters or groups, and not too far from view, as their colors tend to be subtle. They make lovely additions near woodland paths, where the spring sunlight can reach them. There are several types that are suitable for naturalization.ill144

Sun Rose on limestone rocks.

Sun rose on limestone rocks.

Sun Rose, Helianthemum.—Dwarf spreading shrubs, bearing myriads of flowers in a variety of showy colours. The most tasteful and satisfactory way of employing these in our gardens is to naturalise them on banks or slopes in the half–wild parts of our pleasure–grounds, mostly in sandy or warm soil. They are best suited for chalk districts or rocky ones, where they thrive most luxuriantly, and make a very brilliant display. There are many varieties, mostly differing in the hue of the flowers.

Sun Rose, Helianthemum.—These are low, spreading shrubs filled with countless flowers in a range of vibrant colors. The best way to use them in our gardens is to plant them in a natural way on hillsides or slopes in the more wild areas of our yards, particularly in sandy or warm soil. They do particularly well in chalky or rocky regions, where they flourish beautifully and create a stunning display. There are numerous varieties, mainly differing in flower color.

Perennial Sunflower, Helianthus, Rudbeckia, Silphium.—Stout and usually very tall perennials, with showy yellow flowers, the best known of which is Helianthus multiflorus fl. pl., of which plenty may be seen in Euston Square and other places in London. As a rule these are all better fitted for rough places than for gardens, where, like many other plants mentioned in these pages, they will tend to form a vigorous herbaceous covert. H. rigidus is a brilliantly showy plant, running very freely at the root, and an excellent subject for naturalisation. H. giganteus, common in thickets and swamps in America, and growing as high as 10 ft., is also desirable. The showy and larger American Rudbeckias, such as laciniata, triloba, and also the small but showy hirta, virtually belong to the same type. All these plants, and many others of the tall yellow–flowered composites that[145] one sees conspicuous among herbaceous vegetation in America, would produce very showy effects in autumn, and might perhaps more particularly interest those who only visit their country seats at that time of year. The Silphiums, especially the compass plant (S. laciniatum), and the cup plant (S. perfoliatum), are allied in general aspect and character to the Helianthuses, and are suitable for the same purposes.

Perennial Sunflower, Helianthus, Rudbeckia, Silphium.—Sturdy and usually very tall perennials with vibrant yellow flowers, the most popular being Helianthus multiflorus fl. pl., which can be seen in abundance in Euston Square and various other locations in London. Generally, these plants are better suited for wild areas than for gardens, where, like many other plants mentioned in this document, they tend to create a lush herbaceous cover. H. rigidus is a striking plant that spreads easily at the roots and is great for naturalizing. H. giganteus, commonly found in thickets and swamps across America and growing up to 10 feet tall, is also a desirable option. The showy and larger American Rudbeckias, like laciniata, triloba, and the smaller yet eye-catching hirta, belong to the same category. All these plants, along with numerous tall yellow-flowered composites that[145] stand out among the herbaceous plants in America, would create stunning displays in the fall and may particularly appeal to those who only visit their country homes during that time of year. The Silphiums, especially the compass plant (S. laciniatum) and the cup plant (S. perfoliatum), share similar characteristics and appearance with Helianthuses and are suitable for the same uses.

St. John’s Wort, Hypericum.—The well–known St. John’s wort has already in many places made good its claim as a wilderness plant, and there is scarcely one of its numerous congeners which will not thrive in wild and rough places, in any soil. They have all the same bright yellow flowers as the St. John’s wort, and are nearly all taller. Some of the newer kinds have the handsome large flowers of the St. John’s Wort. It should be noted that the common St. John’s Wort so exhausts the soil of moisture that it may be the cause of the death of trees, and should therefore be looked after. Many places have too much of it, as they have of the common Laurel.

St. John’s Wort, Hypericum.—The well-known St. John’s wort has already proven itself as a wild plant in many locations, and almost all of its many relatives can thrive in wild and rough environments, in any type of soil. They all have the same bright yellow flowers as St. John’s wort and are mostly taller. Some of the newer varieties feature the large, attractive flowers of St. John’s Wort. It's important to note that the common St. John’s Wort drains the soil of moisture so much that it can lead to the death of trees, so it should be monitored. Many areas have too much of it, similar to the common Laurel.

Rocket, Hesperis.—The common single Rocket (Hesperis matronalis) is a showy useful plant in copse or shrubbery, and very easily raised from seed.

Rocket, Hesperis.—The common single Rocket (Hesperis matronalis) is an attractive, useful plant in woods or gardens, and it's very easy to grow from seed.

Evergreen Candytuft, Iberis.—Compact little evergreens, forming spreading bushes from 3 inches to 15 inches high, and sheeted with white flowers in spring and early summer. There are no plants more suitable for naturalisation in open or bare places, or, indeed, in any position where the vegetation is not strong enough to overrun them. They, however, attain greatest perfection when fully exposed to the sun, and are admirable for every kind of rocky or stony ground and banks.

Evergreen Candytuft, Iberis.—These compact little evergreen plants form spreading bushes that range from 3 to 15 inches tall, covered in white flowers during spring and early summer. There are no better plants for naturalizing in open or bare areas, or really in any spot where the surrounding plants aren’t robust enough to take over. They reach their best growth when fully sunlit and are excellent for all types of rocky or stony ground and slopes.

Iris, Fleur de Lis.—These plants, once so well known in our gardens, rivalling (or rather exceeding) the lilies in beauty, are varied and numerous enough to make a wild garden by themselves. The many beautiful varieties of germanica will grow in almost any soil, and may be used with good effect in woods, copses, by wood walks, or near the margin of water. I. sibirica, rather a common kind, will grow in the water; and, as this is not generally known, it is worthy the notice of any one taking an interest in aquatics. It is probable that others of the beardless kinds will also do well with their roots below the water, and if so, they will one day much improve the rather poorly adorned margins of artificial waters. On the other hand, I. pumila, and the varieties of germanica, are often seen on the tops of old walls, on[146] thatched roofs, etc., on the Continent, flowering profusely. These facts tend to show how many different positions may be adorned by the irises.ill146

Iris, Fleur de Lis.—These plants, once so popular in our gardens, rivaling (or even surpassing) lilies in beauty, are diverse and plentiful enough to create a wild garden on their own. The many lovely varieties of germanica can thrive in almost any soil and can be effectively used in woods, thickets, along woodland paths, or near water's edge. I. sibirica, a rather common type, can grow in water; and since this is not widely known, it deserves attention from anyone interested in aquatic plants. It’s likely that other beardless varieties will also thrive with their roots submerged, and if so, they could significantly enhance the somewhat bare edges of artificial water bodies. On the other hand, I. pumila and the varieties of germanica are often seen blooming abundantly on the tops of old walls, thatched roofs, etc., on the Continent. These examples show how many different places can be beautified by irises.[146]ill146

Common Lupine, Lupinus polyphyllus.—Amidst the tallest and handsomest herbaceous plants, grouped where they may be seen from grass drives or wood walks, or in any position or soil. Excellent for islets or river banks, in which, or in copses, it spreads freely. There are several varieties, all worthy of culture.

Common Lupine, Lupinus polyphyllus.—Among the tallest and most attractive flowering plants, they are arranged where they can be easily seen from grassy paths or wooded trails, or in any location or type of soil. They're great for islands or riverbanks, where they thrive, or in wooded areas, where they spread freely. There are several varieties, all of which are great for cultivation.

Honesty, Lunaria.—This, which approaches the Stocks in the aspect of its fine purplish violet flowers, is quite removed from them by the appearance of its curious seed–vessels. It is one of the most valuable of all plants for naturalisation, and may be said to form a type by itself. It shows itself freely in dryish ground or on chalk banks, and is one of the prettiest objects to be met with in early summer in wood or wild.

Honesty, Lunaria.—This plant, which looks similar to the Stocks with its beautiful purplish violet flowers, is quite different because of its unique seed pods. It's one of the most valuable plants for naturalization and can be considered a type all its own. It thrives in drier soil or on chalky slopes and is one of the loveliest sights to see in early summer in woods or wild areas.

Lily, Lilium.—There are many hardy lilies that may be naturalised. The situations that these grow in, from the high meadows of Northern Italy, dotted with the orange lily, to the woody gorges of the Sierras in California, rich with tall and fragrant kinds, are such as make their culture in copses, woods, rough grassy places, etc., a certainty. In woods where there is a rich deposit of vegetable matter the great American Lilium superbum, and no doubt some of the recently–discovered Californian lilies, will do well. The European lilies, dotted in the grass in the rough unmown glades, would not grow nearly so large as they do in the rich borders of our cottage gardens;[147] but the effect of the single large blooms of the orange lily just level with the tops of the grass, in early summer, where it grows wild, is at least as beautiful as any aspect it has hitherto presented in gardens. Along the bed of small rivulets, in the bottom of narrow gorges densely shaded by great Thujas, Arbutus trees sixty and even eighty feet high, and handsome large–leaved evergreen oaks on the Sierras, I saw in autumn numbers of lily stems seven, eight, and nine feet high, so one could imagine what pictures they formed in early summer; therefore deep dykes and narrow shady lanes would afford congenial homes for various fine species. No mode of cultivating lilies in gardens is equal to that of dotting them through beds of rhododendrons and other American plants usually planted in peat; the soil of these, usually and very unwisely left to the rhododendrons alone, being peculiarly suited to the majority of the lily tribe. As for the wild garden, Mr. G. F. Wilson sent me a stem of Lilium superbum last year (1880) grown in a rich woody bottom, 11½ feet high!

Lily, Lilium.—There are many hardy lilies that can be naturalized. These lilies thrive in various settings, from the high meadows of Northern Italy, sprinkled with orange lilies, to the wooded gorges of the Sierras in California, rich with tall and fragrant varieties. This diversity makes their cultivation in groves, woods, and rough grassy areas a certainty. In forests with rich organic matter, the great American Lilium superbum, along with some recently discovered Californian lilies, will thrive. The European lilies, scattered in the grass of untamed glades, would not grow nearly as large as they do in the rich borders of our cottage gardens; [147] however, the sight of the large blooms of the orange lily just peeking above the grass in early summer where it grows wild is at least as beautiful as any display it has shown in gardens. Along the banks of small streams in narrow gorges heavily shaded by towering Thujas, Arbutus trees that reach sixty to eighty feet, and striking large-leaved evergreen oaks in the Sierras, I observed in autumn numerous lily stems standing seven, eight, and nine feet tall, which gives you an idea of how stunning they must look in early summer. Thus, deep ditches and narrow shady paths would provide suitable homes for various beautiful species. No method of growing lilies in gardens compares to planting them among beds of rhododendrons and other American plants that are usually grown in peat. The soil, often mistakenly reserved only for the rhododendrons, is particularly well-suited for most lilies. As for a wild garden, Mr. G. F. Wilson sent me a stem of Lilium superbum last year (1880) that grew in a rich wooded area, measuring 11½ feet tall!

Snowflake, Leucojum.—I have rarely seen anything more beautiful than a colony of the summer Snowflake on the margin of a tuft of rhododendrons in the gardens at Longleat. Some of the flowers were on stems nearly 3 feet high, the partial shelter of the bushes and good soil causing the plants to be unusually vigorous. Both the spring and summer Snowflakes (L. vernum and L. æstivum) are valuable plants for wild grassy places.

Snowflake, Leucojum.—I've rarely seen anything more beautiful than a group of summer Snowflakes growing at the edge of a clump of rhododendrons in the gardens at Longleat. Some of the flowers were on stems nearly 3 feet tall, with the partial shelter from the bushes and rich soil making the plants particularly strong. Both the spring and summer Snowflakes (L. vernum and L. æstivum) are great additions to wild grassy areas.

Gentian Lithosperm, Lithospermum prostratum.—A very distinct, prostrate, hairy, half–shrubby plant, with a profusion of flowers of as fine a blue as any gentian. Thrives vigorously in any deep sandy soil, and in such well deserves naturalisation among low rock plants, etc., in sunny positions. Probably other species of the genus will be found suitable for the same purpose.

Gentian Lithosperm, Lithospermum prostratum.—This is a unique, sprawling, hairy, semi-shrubby plant that produces an abundance of flowers in a beautiful blue, just like any gentian. It grows vigorously in deep sandy soil and is well-suited for naturalization among low rock plants, etc., in sunny spots. It's likely that other species of the genus could be appropriate for the same purpose.

Lychnis.—Handsome medium–sized perennials, with showy blooms, mostly of a brilliant rose or scarlet colour. If the type was only represented by the rose campion it would be a valuable one. This is a beautiful object in dry soils, on which it does not perish in winter. They are most fitted for association with dwarf or medium–sized perennials, in open places and in rich soil.

Lychnis.—Attractive medium-sized perennials with vibrant flowers, mostly in bright rose or red shades. Even if the only representative of the type was the rose campion, it would still be considered valuable. This plant looks stunning in dry soils, where it survives through the winter. They are best suited to be planted alongside dwarf or medium-sized perennials in open areas and rich soil.

Honeysuckle, Lonicera.—Such favourites as these must not be omitted. Any kind of climbing Honeysuckle will find a happy home in the wild garden, either rambling over stumps or hedgerows, or even planted by themselves on banks.

Honeysuckle, Lonicera.—We can’t forget about these beloved plants. Any type of climbing Honeysuckle will thrive in a wild garden, whether it’s sprawling over stumps or hedges, or even planted alone on slopes.

Pea, Lathyrus.—Much having been lately written concerning the[148] wild garden and its suitable occupants, I venture to suggest Lathyrus pyrenaicus as an addition to the list. Most cultivators of flowers are aware of the rambling habits of the greater number of plants of the Leguminous tribe, but in that particular L. pyrenaicus eclipses them all. It produces an immense quantity of bright orange–coloured blossoms, but the principal difficulty connected with its thorough development is the selection of an appropriate place for it, for a well–established plant of this species will ramble over, and by its density of growth prevent every plant and shrub that comes within its reach from thriving; indeed, it is a greater rambler than the Hop, the Bindweed, or the Bryony, and is decidedly more handsome. Tying up or training such a plant is out of the question; but there are many rough places in the wild garden where it would be quite at home and form an attractive feature. Every kind of Everlasting Pea is excellent for the wild garden, either for scrambling over hedgerows, stumps, or growing among the grass.—J. W.ill148

Pea, Lathyrus.—A lot has been written recently about the[148]wild garden and the best plants for it, so I’d like to suggest Lathyrus pyrenaicus as a great addition. Most flower growers know about the sprawling nature of many plants in the Leguminous family, but L. pyrenaicus stands out above all. It produces a huge amount of bright orange flowers, but the main challenge in getting it to thrive is choosing the right spot. Once established, this plant will spread out and, due to its dense growth, will overshadow and hinder the growth of any nearby plants and shrubs. In fact, it spreads more than the Hop, the Bindweed, or the Bryony, and looks much better. Trying to tie it up or train it is just not feasible, but there are plenty of wild areas in the garden where it would thrive and be a beautiful addition. All types of Everlasting Pea are excellent for wild gardens, whether for climbing over hedges, stumps, or growing among the grass.—J. W.ill148

Everlasting Pea, creeping up stem in shrubbery.

Everlasting Pea, climbing up the stems in the bushes.

Monkey–flower, Mimulus.—“Wandering one day in the neighbourhood of “Gruigfoot,” a queer–shaped hill in Linlithgowshire, my eye was attracted by a small burn whose banks were literally jewelled throughout its visible course with an unfamiliar yellow flower. A nearer approach showed me that it was the garden Mimulus (Monkey–flower), the seed of which must have escaped from some neighbouring cottage garden, and established itself here, in the coldest part of the British Isles. I took the hint, and have naturalised it by the banks of a small stream which runs at the foot of my garden, and I strongly recommend your readers to do the same. It mingles charmingly with the blue Forget–me–not, and is equally hardy.”—S. in Garden.

Monkey-flower, Mimulus.—“One day while exploring near a strangely shaped hill called ‘Gruigfoot’ in Linlithgowshire, I noticed a small stream whose banks were literally decorated with an unfamiliar yellow flower. Getting closer, I realized it was the garden Mimulus (Monkey-flower), which must have escaped from a nearby cottage garden and settled here in the coldest part of the British Isles. I took the hint and have naturalized it by the banks of a small stream at the bottom of my garden, and I highly recommend your readers do the same. It blends beautifully with the blue Forget-me-not and is just as resilient.”—S. in Garden.

Grape Hyacinth, Muscari.—These free and hardy little bulbs[149] are easily naturalised and very handsome, with their little spikes of flowers of many shades of blue.

Grape Hyacinth, Muscari.—These tough and resilient little bulbs[149] are easy to plant and look great, with their clusters of flowers in various shades of blue.

Forget–me–not, Myosotis.—There is one exotic species, M. dissitiflora, not inferior in beauty to any of our handsomest native kinds, and which is well worthy of naturalisation everywhere, thriving best on moist and sandy soil.ill149

Forget-me-not, Myosotis.—There is one exotic species, M. dissitiflora, that is just as beautiful as any of our most attractive native varieties, and it truly deserves to be naturalized everywhere, growing best in moist, sandy soil.ill149

Type of fine–leaved umbellate plants seldom grown in gardens.

Type of fine-leaved umbrella-shaped plants rarely grown in gardens.

Molopospermum cicutarium.—There is a deep green and fern–like beauty displayed profusely by some of the Umbelliferous family, but I have rarely met with one so remarkably attractive as this species. It is a very ornamental plant, with large, deeply–divided leaves of a lively green colour, forming a dense irregular bush. The flowers, which are insignificant and of a yellowish–white colour, are borne in small roundish umbels. Many of the class, while very elegant, perish quickly, get shabby indeed by the end of June, and are therefore out of place in the flower garden; but this is firm in character, of a fine rich green, stout yet spreading in habit, growing more than 3 feet high, and making altogether a most pleasing bush. It is perfectly hardy, and easily increased by seed or division, but rare as yet. It loves a deep moist soil, but will thrive in any good garden soil. It is a fine subject for isolation or grouping with other hardy and graceful–leaved Umbelliferous plants.

Molopospermum cicutarium.—Some plants in the Umbelliferous family display a rich green and fern-like beauty, but I have rarely come across one as striking as this species. It is a highly ornamental plant with large, deeply divided leaves of a vibrant green color, creating a dense, irregular bush. The flowers, which are quite small and yellowish-white, are arranged in small, rounded clusters. Many plants in this class, while elegant, fade quickly and can look shabby by the end of June, making them unsuitable for flower gardens; however, this one is sturdy with a lovely rich green hue, robust yet spreading, growing over 3 feet high and forming a very pleasing bush. It is completely hardy and can be easily propagated from seeds or divisions, though it is still relatively rare. It prefers deep, moist soil but can thrive in any good garden soil. It makes a great choice for being isolated or grouped with other hardy and graceful-leaved Umbelliferous plants.

Stock, Matthiola.—Showy flowers, mostly fragrant, peculiarly well suited for old ruins, chalk pits, stony banks, etc. Some of the annual[150] kinds are pretty, and some of the varieties common in gardens assume a bush–like character when grown in the positions above named. With the Stocks may be associated the single rocket (Hesperis matronalis), which thrives freely in shrubberies and copses.

Stock, Matthiola.—These are vibrant flowers, mostly fragrant, and particularly well-suited for old ruins, chalk pits, stony banks, etc. Some of the annual[150] varieties are beautiful, and some common garden types take on a bush-like shape when grown in the aforementioned settings. The single rocket (Hesperis matronalis) can also be associated with Stocks, as it grows well in shrubberies and woodlands.

Bee Balm, Monarda.—Large and very showy herbaceous plants, with scarlet or purple flowers, conspicuously beautiful in American and Canadian woods, and capital subjects for naturalisation in woods, copses, etc., or anywhere among medium–sized vegetation, thriving best in light or well–drained soils.ill150

Bee Balm, Monarda.—Large and striking herbaceous plants, with bright red or purple flowers, incredibly beautiful in American and Canadian forests, and excellent candidates for naturalization in woods, thickets, etc., or anywhere among medium-sized vegetation, doing best in light or well-drained soils.ill150

The Bee Balm, Monarda. American wood plant.

The Bee Balm, Monarda. Native American woodland plant.

Mallow, Malva, Althœa, Malope, Kitaibelia, Callirhoe, Sida.—Plants of several distinct genera may be included under this type, and from each very showy and useful things may be obtained. They are for the most part subjects which are somewhat too coarse, when closely examined, to be planted in gardens generally; but among the taller vegetation in wild shrubberies, copses, glades in woods, etc., they will furnish a magnificent effect. Some of the Malvas are very showy, vigorous–growing plants, mostly with rosy flowers, and would associate well with our own handsome M. moschata. The Althæas, close allies of the common single hollyhock, are very vigorous and fine for this purpose, as are also the Sidas and Kitaibelia vitifolia. The Malopes are among the best of the annual subjects for naturalisation. The Callirhoes are dwarf, handsome trailers, more brilliant than the others, and the only ones of the type that should be planted on bare banks or amidst dwarf vegetation, as all the others are of the most rampant character.

Mallow, Malva, Althœa, Malope, Kitaibelia, Callirhoe, Sida.—A variety of distinct plant genera fall under this category, each offering attractive and useful features. Most of these plants might be too rough when examined closely to be typically used in gardens; however, they can create a stunning effect among taller plants in wild shrubberies, wooded clearings, and other natural areas. Some Malvas are quite showy and robust, mainly producing rosy flowers, and would pair nicely with our beautiful M. moschata. The Althæas, which are closely related to the common single hollyhock, are also strong and suitable for this setting, along with the Sidas and Kitaibelia vitifolia. The Malopes are among the best choices for naturalizing as annuals. The Callirhoes are compact, attractive trailing plants that are more vibrant than the others, and they're the only ones in this group that should be planted on bare slopes or among smaller plants, as the others tend to be quite vigorous.

Mulgedium Plumieri.—A herbaceous plant of fine and distinct port, bearing purplish–blue blossoms, rather uncommon among its kind. Till recently it was generally only seen in botanic gardens, but it has, nevertheless, many merits as a wild garden plant, and for growing in small groups or single specimens in quiet green corners of pleasure–grounds or shrubberies. It does best in rather rich ground, and in such a position will reward all who plant it, being a really hardy and long–lived perennial. The foliage is sometimes over a yard long, and the flower–stems attain a height of over six feet in good soil.

Mulgedium Plumieri.—This is a herbaceous plant with a beautiful and distinct appearance, featuring purplish-blue flowers that are somewhat rare among its species. Until recently, it could typically only be found in botanical gardens, yet it has many advantages as a wild garden plant and works well for planting in small groups or as single specimens in quiet green spaces or shrub areas. It thrives best in fairly rich soil, and in such conditions, it rewards those who choose to plant it, being a truly hardy and long-lived perennial. The leaves can sometimes grow over a yard long, and the flower stems can reach heights of more than six feet in good soil.

Water Lily, Nymphœa and Nuphar.—Two noble North American plants well deserve naturalisation in our waters, associated with our own beautiful white and yellow water lilies—the large Nuphar advena, which thrusts its great leaves well out of the water in many parts of North America, and the sweet–scented Nymphæa odorata, which floats in crowds on many of the pine–bordered lakes and lakelets of New England, to a non–botanical observer seeming very like our own water lily.

Water Lily, Nymphœa and Nuphar.—Two impressive North American plants truly deserve to be established in our waters, alongside our own beautiful white and yellow water lilies—the large Nuphar advena, which pushes its big leaves well out of the water in many areas of North America, and the sweet-scented Nymphæa odorata, which floats in groups on many of the pine-bordered lakes and ponds of New England, appearing to a non-botanical observer as quite similar to our own water lily.

Daffodil, Narcissus.—Most people have seen the common daffodil in a semi–wild state in our woods and copses. Apart from varieties, there are more than a score distinct species of daffodil that could be naturalised quite as easily as this in all parts of these islands. We need hardly suggest how charming these would be, flowering in early spring and summer in the rougher parts of pleasure grounds, or along wood–walks, or any like position.

Daffodil, Narcissus.—Most people have seen the common daffodil growing wild in our woods and groves. Besides different varieties, there are over twenty distinct species of daffodil that could easily be naturalized in all areas of these islands. We hardly need to point out how lovely these would be, blooming in early spring and summer in the wilder parts of gardens, along pathways in the woods, or similar locations.

Bitter Vetch, Orobus.—Banks, grassy unmown margins of wood–walks, rocks, fringes of shrubberies, and like places, with deep and sandy loam, well drained, will grow the beautiful spring Bitter Vetch or any of its varieties or allies perfectly.

Bitter Vetch, Orobus.—Banks, grassy uncut edges of pathways, rocky areas, borders of shrubs, and similar spots with deep, sandy loam that drains well will support the thriving growth of the beautiful spring Bitter Vetch and its various types or relatives perfectly.

Evening Primrose, Enothera.—Among the largest–flowered and handsomest of all known types of herbaceous vegetation. The yellow species, and varieties like and allied to the common Evening Primrose (Œ. biennis), may be readily naturalised in any position, from a rubbish–heap to a nice, open, sunny copse; while such prostrate ones as Œ. marginata and Œ. macrocarpa will prove very fine among dwarf herbs on banks or in open sunny places, in light or calcareous soil. These noble and delicately–scented flowers are very easily grown and very beautiful in any position. They, however, from their height and boldness, and the freedom with which they grow in almost any soil, are peculiarly suited for the wild garden, for shrubberies, copses, and the like, sowing themselves freely.

Evening Primrose, Enothera.—Among the largest and most beautiful types of herbaceous plants. The yellow species and varieties similar to the common Evening Primrose (Œ. biennis) can easily thrive anywhere, from a garbage pile to a nice, open, sunny thicket; while the trailing varieties like Œ. marginata and Œ. macrocarpa look great among shorter plants on slopes or in sunny spots with light or chalky soil. These stunning and delicately scented flowers are simple to grow and gorgeous in any setting. Because of their height, striking appearance, and ability to grow easily in almost any soil, they are particularly ideal for wild gardens, shrubberies, thickets, and similar areas, where they will self-seed freely.

Cotton Thistle, Onopordon.—Large thistles, with very handsome hoary and silvery leaves, and purplish flowers on fiercely–armed stems. No plants are more noble in port than these, and they thrive freely in rough open places, rubbish–heaps, etc., and usually come up freely from self–sown seeds.

Cotton Thistle, Onopordon.—Big thistles with striking grayish-silver leaves and purplish flowers on sharp, tough stems. No plants look more impressive than these, and they grow easily in rough open areas, trash heaps, and so on, often sprouting abundantly from self-sown seeds.

Star of Bethlehem, Ornithogalum.—Various handsome hardy species of this genus will thrive as well as the common Star of Bethlehem in any sunny, grassy places.

Star of Bethlehem, Ornithogalum.—Several beautiful hardy species of this genus can flourish just like the common Star of Bethlehem in any sunny, grassy areas.

Creeping Forget–me–not, Omphalodes.—The creeping Forget–me–not,[152] Omphalodes verna, is one of the prettiest plants to be naturalised in woods, copses, or shrubberies, running about with the greatest freedom in moist soil. It is more compact in habit and lives longer on good soils than the Forget–me–nots, and should be naturalised round every country place.

Creeping Forget-me-not, Omphalodes.—The creeping Forget-me-not,[152] Omphalodes verna, is one of the most beautiful plants to grow naturally in woods, glades, or gardens, spreading freely in moist soil. It has a more compact growth habit and lasts longer in rich soil compared to regular Forget-me-nots, making it a great choice to plant around any country home.

Wood Sorrel, Oxalis.—Dwarf plants with clover–like leaflets and pretty rosy or yellow flowers. At least two of the species in cultivation, viz. O. Bowieana and O. floribunda, might be naturalised on sandy soils amidst vegetation not more than 5 inches or 6 inches high; and the family is so numerous that probably other members of it will be found equally free growing.

Wood Sorrel, Oxalis.—Small plants with clover-like leaves and beautiful pink or yellow flowers. At least two of the species being cultivated, namely O. Bowieana and O. floribunda, could thrive naturally in sandy soil among plants that are no taller than 5 or 6 inches; and this family is so large that it’s likely other members will also be found to grow just as easily.

The Great Japan Knotweed (Polygonum cuspidatum).
(Showing the plant in flower.)

The Great Japan Knotweed (Polygonum cuspidatum).
(Showing the plant in bloom.)

Polygonum cuspidatum.—If, instead of the formal character of much of our gardening, plants of bold types similar to the above were introduced along the sides of woodland walks and shrubbery borders, how much more enjoyable such places would be, as at almost every step there would be something fresh to attract notice and gratify the eye, instead of which such parts are generally bare, or given up to weeds and monotonous rubbish.

Polygonum cuspidatum.—If, instead of the formal style of much of our gardening, we added bold plants like these along the edges of woodland paths and shrub borders, those areas would be so much more enjoyable. Every step would offer something new to catch the eye and delight the senses, rather than leaving those spaces bare or filled with weeds and dull debris.

Pæony.—Vigorous herbaceous plants, with large and splendid flowers of various shades of crimson, rosy–crimson, and white, well calculated for producing the finest effects in the wild garden. There are many species and varieties, the flowers of some of the varieties being very sweet–scented, double, and among the largest flowers we know of. Fringes of shrubberies, open glades in woods or copses, and indeed almost any wild place, may be adorned by them; and they may also be advantageously grouped or isolated on the grass in the rougher parts of the pleasure–ground. I never felt the beauty of the fine colour of Pæonies till I saw a group of the double scarlet kind flowering in the long Grass in Oxfordshire. The owner had placed an irregular group of this plant in an unmown glade, quite away from the garden proper; and yet, seen from the lawn and garden, the effect was most brilliant, as may be imagined from the way in which such high colours tell in the distance. To be able to produce such effects in the early summer for six weeks or so is a great gain from a landscape point of view, apart from the immediate beauty of the flowers when seen close at hand.ill153

Paeony.—Vibrant herbaceous plants with large and stunning flowers in various shades of crimson, rosy-crimson, and white, perfect for creating beautiful effects in a wild garden. There are many species and varieties, with some having very fragrant, double blooms that are among the largest flowers we know. They can enhance fringes of shrubbery, open clearings in woods or small forests, and almost any wild area, and can also be effectively grouped or placed alone on grass in the wilder sections of the garden. I didn’t truly appreciate the beauty of the vibrant colors of Paeonies until I saw a cluster of the double scarlet variety blooming in the tall grass in Oxfordshire. The owner had arranged an irregular grouping of this plant in an unmown clearing, far from the main garden; yet, viewed from the lawn and garden, the effect was incredibly striking, as you can imagine how such bold colors stand out from a distance. Being able to create such effects in early summer for six weeks or so is a big advantage from a landscape perspective, aside from the immediate beauty of the flowers when seen up close.ill153

Phlomis.—Type of handsome Labiates; admirably suited for the wild garden. (See p. 154.)

Phlomis.—A type of beautiful Labiates; perfectly suited for the wild garden. (See p. 154.)

Poppy, Papaver, in var.—The huge and flaming Papaver orientale, P. bracteatum, and P. lateritium, are the most important of this type. They will thrive and live long in almost any position, but the proper place for them is in open spots among strong herbaceous plants. For the wild garden or wilderness the Welsh Poppy (Meconopsis cambrica) is one of the best plants. It is a cheerful plant at all seasons; perched on some old dry wall its masses of foliage are very fresh, but when loaded with a profusion of large yellow blossoms the plant is strikingly handsome; it is a determined coloniser, ready to hold its own under the most adverse circumstances. Its home is the wall, the rock, and the ruin. It even surpasses the Wallflower in adapting itself to strange out–of–the–way places; it will spring up in the gravel walk under one’s feet, and seems quite happy among the boulders in the courtyard. It looks down on one from crevices in brick walls, from chinks where one could scarcely introduce a knife–blade, and after all it delights most in shady places. No plant can be better adapted for naturalising on rough stony banks, old quarries, gravel pits, dead walls, and similar places, and[154] its large handsome flowers will lend a charm to the most uninteresting situations.

Poppy, Papaver, in var.—The large and vibrant Papaver orientale, P. bracteatum, and P. lateritium are the key varieties of this group. They can thrive in almost any location, but they really shine in open areas among sturdy herbaceous plants. For a wild garden or natural setting, the Welsh Poppy (Meconopsis cambrica) is one of the best choices. It’s an uplifting plant year-round; sitting atop an old dry wall, its lush foliage looks fresh, but when it’s bursting with large yellow flowers, it becomes quite stunning. It’s a persistent colonizer, able to thrive in even the toughest conditions. Its natural habitats include walls, rocks, and ruins. It even outdoes the Wallflower when it comes to thriving in unusual places; it can sprout up in gravel paths right beneath your feet and seems perfectly content among the boulders in a courtyard. It grows from crevices in brick walls and tiny gaps where it’s hard to squeeze in a knife blade, yet it particularly delights in shady spots. No plant is better suited for naturalizing on rough rocky banks, old quarries, gravel pits, crumbling walls, and similar areas, and its large, beautiful flowers will bring charm to the dullest locations.

Phlomis.—Showy and stately herbaceous or half–shrubby plants, with a profusion of handsome yellow or purplish flowers. Excellent for naturalisation in warm open woods, copses, banks, etc., growing well in ordinary soil.ill154

Phlomis.—Striking and impressive herbaceous or semi-shrubby plants, featuring an abundance of beautiful yellow or purplish flowers. Great for naturalizing in warm, open woods, groves, banks, and similar areas, thriving in regular soil.ill154

The tall Ox–eye Daisy (Pyrethrum serotinum).

The tall Ox-eye Daisy (Pyrethrum serotinum).

Virginian Poke, Phytolacca decandra.—A tall, robust perennial, within conspicuous flowers and long dense spikes of purplish berries. It will grow anywhere and in any soil; but is most imposing in rich deep ones. The berries are relished by birds. It is fine for association with the largest and stoutest herbaceous plants in rough and half–wild places.

Virginian Poke, Phytolacca decandra.—A tall, sturdy perennial with noticeable flowers and long, dense spikes of purplish berries. It can thrive anywhere and in any type of soil, but it looks most impressive in rich, deep soils. The berries are enjoyed by birds. It works well alongside the largest and strongest herbaceous plants in rugged and semi-wild areas.

Physostegia.—Tall, erect, and beautiful herbaceous plants, mostly with delicate rosy flowers; natives of North America, thriving in any soil. They are among the most pleasing things for planting in half–wild places, where they will not spread rampantly, nor perish quickly.

Physostegia.—Tall, upright, and beautiful herbaceous plants, mostly with delicate pink flowers; native to North America and thriving in any type of soil. They are one of the most delightful options for planting in semi-wild areas, where they won’t spread excessively or die off quickly.

Lungwort, Pulmonaria.—Dwarf plants of the borage family, with showy blue or pinkish blossoms. Easily naturalised in woods or copses, in which position the common blue one must be familiar to many in the woods of England and France. The varieties are common in cottage gardens; they grow in any soil.

Lungwort, Pulmonaria.—Small plants from the borage family, featuring striking blue or pink flowers. They're easy to grow in woodlands or small groves, where the common blue version is well-known to many in the forests of England and France. These varieties are frequently found in cottage gardens; they thrive in any type of soil.

The tall Ox–eye daisy, Pyrethrum serotinum.—This fine autumn flowering plant, for years left in the almost exclusive possession of the Botanic Gardens, is one of the handsomest things we have. It grows 5 or 6 feet high, and flowers late in the year, when flowers are scarce. It is very picturesque in habit.

The tall Ox-eye daisy, Pyrethrum serotinum.—This beautiful autumn-flowering plant, which for years was mostly found in the Botanic Gardens, is one of the most attractive plants we have. It grows 5 to 6 feet tall and blooms late in the year, when flowers are rare. Its growth habit is quite picturesque.

Bramble, Rubus.—Although we have nearly fifty kinds or reputed kinds of bramble native in Britain, some of the exotic species, entirely distinct from our own, are well worthy of naturalisation among low shrubs and tall herbaceous plants. One of the most charming plants we know for naturalising in shady woods is the large, white–flowered Rubus Nutkanus, with which might be tastefully associated the deep rose–coloured Rubus odoratus, and the early spring–flowering R. spectabilis; while the very striking white–stemmed R. biflorus is a grand object for warm slopes, sunny sides of chalk and gravel pits, etc.

Bramble, Rubus.—Even though there are nearly fifty types or claimed types of bramble native to Britain, some of the exotic species, completely different from our own, are definitely worth planting among low shrubs and tall herbaceous plants. One of the most beautiful plants we know for naturalizing in shady woods is the large, white-flowered Rubus Nutkanus, which could be tastefully paired with the deep rose-colored Rubus odoratus and the early spring-flowering R. spectabilis; while the very striking white-stemmed R. biflorus makes a stunning feature for warm slopes, sunny sides of chalk and gravel pits, etc.

The Great Reed; Arundo Donax.—This noble reed I do not like to omit here, it is so beautiful in the southern counties of England, though in cold soils and hard winters it may perish. Where the hardier Bamboos find a place this will be welcome, though in our country it is only in the warmer parts that it attains the dignity of port it possesses in the south of Europe.ill155

The Great Reed; Arundo Donax.—I can’t leave out this impressive reed; it’s incredibly beautiful in the southern counties of England, although it might not survive in colder soils and harsh winters. This reed will thrive where hardier Bamboos can grow, but in our country, it only reaches its full impressive height in the warmer regions, just as it does in southern Europe.ill155

The Great Reed of Southern Europe (Arundo Donax).

The Great Reed of Southern Europe (Arundo Donax).

Rhubarb, Rheum.—There are several species of rhubarb in cultivation in addition to those commonly grown in gardens. They are much alike in port and in the size of their leaves, R. palmatum and Emodi being the most distinct. The rhubarbs are fine things for association with large–leaved herbaceous plants in deep soils.

Rhubarb, Rheum.—There are several species of rhubarb being cultivated besides those typically grown in gardens. They are quite similar in shape and leaf size, with R. palmatum and Emodi being the most different. Rhubarbs are great for pairing with large-leaved herbaceous plants in rich soils.

Rose, Rosa.—As in the case of brambles, we have many more kinds of wild roses in England than is commonly supposed, but of course nobody ever thinks of planting such things in gardens or shrubberies, where such gems as privet[156] usually make up the underwood. There are scores of the roses of northern and temperate countries which would thrive as well in our woodlands; but as these are not to be obtained in our nurseries, it is useless to mention them. Any species of rose from a northern country might be tried; whilst of roses commonly cultivated the climbing races—such as the Boursault, Ayrshire, and Sempervirens—are the most likely to be satisfactory. The Damask, Alba gallica, and hybrid China, being hardy and free, would do, as would Felicité Perpetuelle, Banksiæflora, the Garland roses, Austrian briar, berberifolia, and microphylla rubra plena. Pruning, or any other attention after planting, should of course not be thought of in connection with these. We have seen masses of wild roses the effect of which was finer than anything we have ever seen in a rosery. Rosa Brunoniana is a very fine free and hardy species from India.

Rose, Rosa.—Like brambles, there are many more types of wild roses in England than most people realize, but no one seems to think of planting them in gardens or shrubbery, where common plants like privet[156] usually dominate the undergrowth. There are plenty of roses from northern and temperate climates that would thrive in our woodlands; however, since these aren't available in our nurseries, there's no point in mentioning them. Any rose species from a northern region could be worth a try; among the commonly cultivated varieties, climbing types—such as Boursault, Ayrshire, and Sempervirens—are the most likely to succeed. The Damask, Alba gallica, and hybrid China roses, being hardy and vigorous, would also work well, as would Felicité Perpetuelle, Banksiæflora, Garland roses, Austrian briar, berberifolia, and microphylla rubra plena. After planting, pruning or any further care shouldn’t be necessary. We’ve seen large groups of wild roses that looked better than anything we've observed in a formal rose garden. Rosa Brunoniana is a particularly beautiful, robust species from India.

Sea Lavender, Statice.—Vigorous perennials, with a profusion of bluish lavender–coloured bloom, thriving freely on all ordinary garden soils. S. latifolia, and some of the stronger kinds, thrive in any position among the medium–sized herbaceous plants.

Sea Lavender, Statice.—Strong perennials that produce a lot of bluish lavender-colored flowers, growing well in all types of regular garden soil. S. latifolia and some of the sturdier varieties do well in any spot among medium-sized flowering plants.

Spiræa, Spiræa.—Handsome and usually vigorous herbaceous plants, with white or rosy flowers, and generally ornamental foliage. Such beautiful kinds as venusta and palmata it is most desirable to try in wild places among the stouter and medium–sized perennials, where sufficiently plentiful to be spared for this purpose. S. Aruncus is, perhaps, the finest plant for the wild garden. Mr. Ellam planted out some spare stock of S. japonica in a wood at Bodorgan, and with the happiest effect. The plants grow and flower freely, the flowers appearing a fortnight later in the moist cool wood than on plants of the same kind on a north garden border; therefore they prolong the season of this favourite flower. They are planted in an irregular group, as such things should generally be, the effect being much better than that obtained by the common dotting plan.

Spiræa, Spiræa.—These are attractive and typically robust herbaceous plants, featuring white or pink flowers and usually decorative leaves. It's highly recommended to experiment with stunning varieties like venusta and palmata in natural settings among sturdier and mid-sized perennials, where there are enough to spare for this purpose. S. Aruncus is possibly the best plant for a wild garden. Mr. Ellam planted some extra S. japonica in a woods at Bodorgan, and it turned out beautifully. The plants grow and flower abundantly, with the flowers appearing two weeks later in the cool, moist woods than those of the same kind on a northern garden border, which extends the blooming season of this beloved flower. They are arranged in an irregular cluster, as is generally ideal, creating a much better effect than the usual random dotting method.

Golden Rod, Solidago.—Tall and vigorous perennials with yellow flowers, showy when in bloom, and attractive when seen in America in autumn, mingled with the blue and lilac Asters of that country, but rarely ornamental as grown in gardens. These, like the Asters, used to be grown to excess in the old borders; but the only position they are fit for is in rough wild places, where in many cases it would be easy, with their aid and that of the Asters, to form that mixture of Golden Rod and Michaelmas daisies which is one of the prettiest effects of American vegetation in autumn.

Golden Rod, Solidago.—Tall and strong perennials with yellow flowers, impressive when in bloom, and visually appealing when seen in America during autumn, mixed with the blue and lilac Asters of the region, but rarely decorative when cultivated in gardens. These, like the Asters, used to be overly abundant in old flower beds; however, the best place for them is in untamed natural areas, where, in many cases, it would be easy to combine them with Asters to create one of the most beautiful effects of American plants in autumn.

Catch–fly, Silene.—Dwarf or spreading plants, allied to the pinks, and generally with white or rosy flowers. The choice mountain kinds, such as S. Lagascæ, alpestris, Schafta, etc., are among the most charming subjects that can be naturalised on rocky places or banks, associated with very dwarf subjects. Such fine annual or biennial kinds as S. Armeria or S. pendula are among the best for this purpose, and might be easily established by scattering a few seeds in such places.

Catch–fly, Silene.—These are small or spreading plants related to the pink family, usually featuring white or pink flowers. The select mountain varieties, like S. Lagascæ, alpestris, Schafta, etc., are some of the most beautiful options for naturalizing in rocky areas or along banks, especially when paired with very small plants. Exceptional annual or biennial types such as S. Armeria or S. pendula are among the best for this purpose and can easily be established by scattering a few seeds in those locations.

Bloodwort, Sanguinaria canadensis.—This little plant, which abounds in the woods of Canada and North America, and which is very rarely indeed seen well grown in our gardens, will thrive under the branches of deciduous trees as well as the winter aconite, and in spring will produce an effect as beautiful as singular.

Bloodwort, Sanguinaria canadensis.—This small plant, which is common in the forests of Canada and North America, is very rarely seen thriving in our gardens. It can grow well under the branches of deciduous trees, just like winter aconite, and in spring, it creates a look that is both beautiful and unique.

Squill, Scilla.—Several kinds of Scilla, closely allied to the common bluebell, would do quite as well in our woods as that well–known native plant, notably S. campanulata, S. bifolia, S. sibirica, etc. Bifolia and sibirica would be better on sunny banks or sheltered fringes of shrubberies with a good aspect. The tall kinds would do in woods or copses like the bluebell. With the dwarfer squills might be associated the grape hyacinth and the amethyst hyacinth (Hyacinthus amethystinus).

Squill, Scilla.—Several types of Scilla, closely related to the common bluebell, would thrive just as well in our woods as that well-known native plant, especially S. campanulata, S. bifolia, S. sibirica, and others. Bifolia and sibirica would do better on sunny slopes or sheltered edges of shrubberies with a favorable view. The taller varieties would fit well in woods or copses like the bluebell. The shorter squills could be paired with the grape hyacinth and the amethyst hyacinth (Hyacinthus amethystinus).

Comfrey, Symphytum.—Herbaceous plants of the borage order, usually vigorous, and with handsome blue flowers. One of the handsomest spring flowers is Symphytum caucasicum, and it is also one of the easiest things to naturalise, running about with the greatest freedom in shrubby or any wild places. Coarse kinds, like S. asperrimum (unfit for garden culture), thrive apace among the largest plants in wild places, and there look quite beautiful when in flower.

Comfrey, Symphytum.—Herbaceous plants from the borage family, typically strong and featuring attractive blue flowers. One of the most beautiful spring flowers is Symphytum caucasicum, which is also one of the easiest to naturalize, spreading freely in shrubby or wild areas. Coarser varieties, like S. asperrimum (not suitable for garden cultivation), thrive quickly among the largest plants in natural settings, looking quite stunning when in bloom.

Scabious, Scabiosa, Cephalaria, Knautia.—Sometimes handsome and usually free–growing herbaceous plants, bluish, purplish, or yellowish in tone. Among these may be seen, in botanic and other gardens, plants suited for naturalisation, but scarcely worthy of a place in the garden. The fine S. caucasica would thrive amidst coarse vegetation in good soil, as would the Knautias.

Scabious, Scabiosa, Cephalaria, Knautia.—These are often attractive and usually easy-to-grow herbaceous plants, featuring bluish, purplish, or yellowish colors. You can find them in botanic and other gardens, and while some may be suitable for naturalization, they don't really deserve a spot in the garden. The beautiful S. caucasica would do well among rough vegetation in rich soil, just like the Knautias.

Stonecrop, Sedum.—Minute and usually prostrate plants, mostly with white, yellow, or rosy flowers, and occurring in multitudes on most of the mountain chains of northern and temperate countries. There are few of these interesting and sometimes very pretty plants that would not grow on the top of an old wall, or thatched house, or stony bank, or bare ground, as well as our common Stonecrop. All grow in any soil, are as easily increased as any weed, and grow anywhere[158] if they are not too much overshadowed by trees and coarse vegetation. Such kinds as S. spurium, S. pulchellum, kamtschaticum, and S. spectabile are among the most ornamental. The last, being a stout herbaceous plant, would be worth associating with such in wild places. There are nearly 100 species of stonecrop in cultivation in Britain.

Stonecrop, Sedum.—Tiny and usually low-growing plants, mostly with white, yellow, or pink flowers, found in abundance on most mountain ranges in northern and temperate countries. There are few of these fascinating and sometimes quite attractive plants that wouldn’t thrive on the top of an old wall, thatched house, rocky bank, or bare ground, just like our common Stonecrop. They can grow in any soil, are as easy to propagate as any weed, and can flourish almost anywhere[158] if they're not too shaded by trees and thick vegetation. Varieties like S. spurium, S. pulchellum, S. kamtschaticum, and S. spectabile are among the most decorative. The latter, being a robust herbaceous plant, would pair well with others in wild areas. There are nearly 100 species of stonecrop cultivated in Britain.

Saxifrage, Saxifraga.—A very extensive genus of plants, abundantly distributed on mountains in northern countries. For our present purpose they may be broadly thrown into five sections—the mossy section, represented in Britain by S. hypnoides; the silvery section, represented by S. Aizoon; the London Pride section, by the Kerry saxifrages; the Megasea section, by the large cabbage–leaved S. crassifolia; and the oppositifolia section, distinguished by its rosy–purple flowers. With the exception of the Megasea and oppositifolia sections, which have rosy flowers, most of the saxifrages have white blossoms spotted with red; a few are yellow, and all are very hardy, and the easiest to grow of all alpine flowers. The mossy, silvery, and purple saxifrages may be naturalised with the greatest ease on bare rocky or mountainous grounds, amidst dwarf vegetation; but, as the places in which this kind of ground occurs are comparatively few, the Megaseas, and the Kerry saxifrages, are probably the most generally useful, as they can fight their way amongst coarse grass and other common herbs. There are probably nearly 150 species in cultivation in the botanic gardens of England, though in many private gardens they are very little known.

Saxifrage, Saxifraga.—A large group of plants that are widely found in mountainous regions of northern countries. For our current discussion, we can generally divide them into five sections: the mossy section, represented in Britain by S. hypnoides; the silvery section, represented by S. Aizoon; the London Pride section, by the Kerry saxifrages; the Megasea section, by the large cabbage-leaved S. crassifolia; and the oppositifolia section, recognized by its rosy-purple flowers. Except for the Megasea and oppositifolia sections, which have rosy flowers, most saxifrages feature white flowers with red spots; a few are yellow, and all are very resilient and the easiest to grow among alpine flowers. The mossy, silvery, and purple saxifrages can be easily naturalized in bare rocky or mountainous areas, alongside dwarf vegetation; however, since such locations are relatively scarce, the Megaseas and the Kerry saxifrages are likely the most widely useful, as they can thrive among coarse grass and other common plants. There are probably around 150 species being cultivated in the botanical gardens of England, although they are not very well known in many private gardens.

Houseleek, Sempervivum.—Very dwarf and succulent plants, with their fleshy leaves arranged in dense rosettes, and mostly with curious but seldom conspicuous flowers, abounding in mountainous regions, and very hardy. The greater number of these grow quite as freely as the common Houseleek in any arid soil, and in any position where the vegetation is not taller than themselves, such as on bare sandy banks, gravelly heaps, etc. There are about fifty hardy kinds in cultivation in the gardens in this country.

Houseleek, Sempervivum.—These are very small, succulent plants with fleshy leaves arranged in tight rosettes, often featuring interesting yet rarely noticeable flowers. They thrive in mountainous areas and are extremely resilient. Most of these plants grow just as easily as the common Houseleek in any dry soil and in any spot where surrounding plants are not taller than they are, such as on bare sandy slopes, gravel piles, etc. There are about fifty hardy varieties cultivated in gardens across the country.

Meadow Rue, Thalictrum.—Tall and vigorous herbaceous plants, mostly without any beauty of flower when closely examined, but often affording a pleasing distant effect when seen in masses, and hence desirable for this mode of gardening, though seldom suitable for a position in the garden proper. They grow in any soil, and should be placed among rank herbs and coarse vegetation, not in the foreground, which might be occupied by more brilliant subjects. There are many kinds not differing much in aspect; some of the smaller ones[159] in the way of our own British T. minus, deserve a place among dwarf vegetation for the elegance of their leaves. With these last may be associated the Italian Isopyrum thalictroides, which is handsome in flower and elegant in leaf.

Meadow Rue, Thalictrum.—Tall and strong herbaceous plants, usually not very beautiful up close, but they look great from a distance when grouped together, making them popular for this type of gardening, even though they aren't often suitable for the main garden. They thrive in any soil and should be placed among taller herbs and thick plants, rather than in the foreground, which should feature more vibrant options. There are many varieties that don't differ much in appearance; some of the smaller ones[159], like our British T. minus, deserve to be part of low-growing plants because of their attractive leaves. You can also pair these with the Italian Isopyrum thalictroides, which has beautiful flowers and elegant leaves.

Spiderwort, Tradescantia virginica.—A handsome and distinct North American perennial, with purple, blue, or white flowers, attaining a height of 1½ feet or 2 feet. An admirable subject for naturalisation on almost any soil, thriving perfectly on the wettest and coldest, and therefore suited for many places where other perennials would make little progress.

Spiderwort, Tradescantia virginica.—A beautiful and unique North American perennial, featuring purple, blue, or white flowers, growing up to 1½ feet or 2 feet tall. It's an excellent choice for naturalizing in almost any type of soil, flourishing even in the wettest and coldest conditions, making it suitable for many locations where other perennials would struggle to thrive.

Wood Lily, Trillium.—Very singular and beautiful American wood plants, of which T. grandiflorum is worthy of special attention, thriving in shady places in moist rich soils, in woods and copses, where some vegetable soil has gathered.ill159

Wood Lily, Trillium.—These are unique and beautiful American woodland plants, particularly T. grandiflorum, which deserves special mention. They flourish in shady spots with moist, rich soil, found in woods and clearings where some organic material has accumulated.ill159

Telekia. Type of the Larger Composites excluded from gardens proper.

Telekia. A type of larger composites not included in traditional gardens.

Globe Flower, Trollius.—Beautiful plants of vigorous habit, with large handsome flowers, of a fine golden colour, like those of the buttercups, but turning inwards so as to form an almost round blossom, quite distinct in aspect. Few subjects are more worthy of a position in grassy glades where the soil is rich, although they will grow in ordinary soil. There are several distinct kinds suitable, though there is little difference in their appearance.

Globe Flower, Trollius.—Beautiful plants with a strong growth habit, featuring large, attractive flowers in a bright golden color, similar to buttercups, but with petals that curve inward to create an almost round shape, making them look quite unique. Few plants deserve a spot in lush meadows with rich soil as much as these, although they can also thrive in regular soil. There are several different varieties available, although they all look quite similar.

Tulip, Tulipa.—Various kinds of Tulips might be naturalised with advantage by wood walks and in the rougher parts of the pleasure grounds. In such positions they would not attain such a size as the richly–fed garden flowers, but that would make them none the less attractive to those who care about the wild garden.

Tulip, Tulipa.—Different types of Tulips could be naturally integrated along woodland paths and in the wilder areas of the garden. In these spots, they might not grow as large as the well-fed garden varieties, but that would not make them any less appealing to those who appreciate a natural garden.

Telekia, Telekia cordifolia.—A vigorous herbaceous plant, suited for association with Echinops, Rheum, and subjects grown for their foliage and character. It is very free in growth, and has large foliage and sunflower–like flowers.

Telekia, Telekia cordifolia.—A strong-growing herbaceous plant that works well with Echinops, Rheum, and other plants grown for their leaves and overall look. It grows abundantly and has large leaves along with sunflower-like flowers.

Flame–Flower, Tritoma.—Flame Flowers are occasionally planted in excess, so as to neutralise the good effect they might otherwise produce, and they, like many other flowers, have suffered from being, like soldiers, put in straight lines and in other geometrical formations. It is only where a fine plant or group of plants is seen in some green glade that the true beauty of the Flame Flower is seen, especially at some little distance off. Although not exactly belonging to the very free–growing and extremely hardy genera of plants recommended for the wild garden, they are so free in many soils that they might with confidence be recommended for that purpose, and our sketch shows a picturesque group of them planted in this way. It would be delightful if people having country seats would study more the effects to be realised from certain types of plants. For instance, a well and tastefully placed group of these Flame Flowers would for a long time in autumn be a most effective feature in the landscape of a country seat; and there are various other plants to which the same remark applies, though perhaps to none better than these in the later months of the year.

Flame–Flower, Tritoma.—Flame Flowers are sometimes planted too densely, which can diminish their positive impact. Like many other flowers, they suffer from being arranged in neat rows or geometric patterns, much like soldiers. The true beauty of the Flame Flower is best appreciated when a striking plant or cluster is seen in a natural green space, especially from a bit of a distance. While they aren’t exactly part of the very vigorous and extremely hardy plant types suggested for wild gardens, they thrive in many soils, so they can confidently be recommended for that use. Our illustration shows a charming group of them planted this way. It would be wonderful if people with country homes took more time to consider the effects of certain plant types. For example, a well-placed and stylish arrangement of these Flame Flowers would be a stunning feature in the landscape of a country home throughout autumn; there are also many other plants that would have the same effect, though perhaps none would do so better than these in the later months of the year.

Group of Tritoma, in grass.

Tritoma group in grass.

Showy Indian Cress, Tropæolum speciosum.—Against terrace walls, among shrubs, and on slopes, on banks, or bushy rockwork near the hardy fernery; in deep, rich, and light soil. This is a brilliant plant, well worth any trouble to establish. Many fail to establish it in[161] the garden proper, but moist, shady, and bushy places, will suit it better.ill161

Showy Indian Cress, Tropæolum speciosum.—Against terrace walls, among shrubs, and on slopes, on banks, or in bushy rock gardens near the hardy fernery; in deep, rich, and light soil. This is a striking plant, definitely worth any effort to get it established. Many struggle to get it going in the main garden, but it does much better in moist, shady, and dense areas.[161]ill161

A tall Mullein.

A tall Mullein plant.

Mullein, Verbascum.—Verbascum vernale is a noble plant, which has been slowly spreading in our collections of hardy plants for some years past, and it is a plant of peculiar merit. I first saw it in the Garden of Plants, and brought home some roots which gave rise to the stock now in our gardens. Its peculiarities, or rather its merits, are that it is a true perennial species—at least on the warm soils, and in this respect quite unlike other Mulleins which are sometimes seen in our gardens, and oftener in our hedgerows. It also has the advantage of great height, growing, as in the specimen shown in our illustration, to a height of about 10 feet, or even more. Then there are the large and green leaves, which come up rather early and are extremely effective. Finally, the colour is good and the quantity of yellow flowers with purplish filaments that are borne on one of these great branching panicles is something enormous. The use of such a plant cannot be difficult to define, it being so good in form and so distinct in habit. For the back part of a mixed border, for grouping with other plants of remarkable size or form of foliage, or for placing here and there in open spaces among shrubs, it is well suited. A bold group of it, arranged on the Grass by itself, in deep, light, and well–dressed soil, would be effective in a picturesque garden. It is also known in gardens by the name of Verbascum Chaixii, which name, we believe, was given to it at Kew.

Mullein, Verbascum.—Verbascum vernale is an impressive plant that has been gradually becoming a part of our hardy plant collections over the past few years, and it truly stands out. I first discovered it in the Garden of Plants and brought some roots home, which led to the plants we now have in our gardens. Its unique features, or rather its advantages, include being a genuine perennial species—at least in warmer soils, which sets it apart from other Mulleins that are often found in our gardens and more frequently in hedgerows. It also boasts great height, reaching about 10 feet or more, as illustrated in our sample. The large green leaves appear quite early and are very striking. Moreover, the color is appealing, and the abundance of yellow flowers with purplish filaments that grow on one of these large branching flower spikes is remarkable. The purpose of this plant is easy to see, given its excellent form and distinct growth habit. It's perfect for the back of a mixed border, for grouping with other plants that have impressive size or unique foliage, or for placing in open spaces among shrubs. A bold grouping of it, set on the grass alone in rich, well-maintained soil, would look stunning in a picturesque garden. It's also referred to as Verbascum Chaixii in gardens, a name we believe was assigned to it at Kew.

Periwinkle, Vinca.—Trailing plants, with glossy foliage and handsome blue flowers, well known in gardens. They are admirable plants for naturalisation, growing in any position, shady or sunny.[162] There are variously–coloured and very pretty varieties of V. minor, while the variegated forms of both species are handsome, and may be naturalised like the green kinds.

Periwinkle, Vinca.—These are trailing plants with shiny leaves and beautiful blue flowers, popular in gardens. They’re great for naturalizing and can thrive in any spot, whether shady or sunny.[162] There are many attractive varieties of V. minor in different colors, and the variegated forms of both species are also beautiful and can be naturalized just like the green types.

Speedwell, Veronica.—Herbaceous plants, usually rather tall (1½ feet to 3 feet), in some cases dwarf and neat alpine plants with blue flowers in various shades; are among the hardiest of plants, and will grow in any soil. All the taller kinds are admirably suited for naturalisation among long grass and other herbaceous vegetation. A great number that are in cultivation in borders are only fit for this purpose. The dwarf kinds are equally suitable for bare places, or among other dwarf plants.

Speedwell, Veronica.—These are herbaceous plants that are usually quite tall (1½ feet to 3 feet), but some are smaller, neat alpine types with blue flowers in various shades. They are among the hardiest plants and can grow in any soil. The taller varieties are perfect for blending in with long grass and other herbaceous plants. Many of the ones grown in borders are only suitable for this purpose. The smaller varieties are also great for bare spots or alongside other low-growing plants.

Violet, Viola.—A numerous race of dwarf and interesting plants, thriving freely in our climate, in half–shady places, rocky spots or banks, fringes of shrubberies, or almost any position. The very handsome bird’s–foot violet of N. America (V. pedata) would thrive in sandy level places or on rocky banks. In this family occur a good many kinds, such as V. canadensis, which, not being fragrant, or not possessing sufficient charms to ensure their general cultivation in gardens, are peculiarly suited for this sort of gardening. Our own sweet violet should be abundantly naturalised wherever it does not occur in a wild state.

Violet, Viola.—A large variety of small and interesting plants, flourishing well in our climate, in partially shaded areas, rocky spots, or along banks and edges of shrubs, or pretty much any location. The striking bird’s-foot violet from North America (V. pedata) does well in sandy flat areas or on rocky banks. This family includes many species, such as V. canadensis, which, lacking fragrance or not being appealing enough to guarantee their widespread cultivation in gardens, are particularly suited for this type of gardening. Our own sweet violet should be widely naturalized wherever it is not already found in the wild.

Adam’s–Needle, Yucca.—Although these scarcely come into this selection, yet their fine habit and their hardiness give them a charm for us even in a wild garden. A legitimate aim, on the part of any one carrying out this to any extent, would be to try and develop a sub–tropical aspect of vegetation in certain places. In such a case the Yuccas could not be dispensed with. The free–flowering kinds (Y. flaccida and Y. filamentosa) should not be omitted, as they are more likely to spread and increase than the larger ones; all such plants are better held together in groups.

Adam’s–Needle, Yucca.—While these plants aren't the focus of this selection, their striking appearance and hardiness make them appealing in a wild garden. A worthwhile goal for anyone looking to create a diverse landscape would be to develop a sub-tropical vibe in certain areas. In that case, Yuccas are essential. The free-flowering varieties (Y. flaccida and Y. filamentosa) shouldn’t be left out, as they tend to spread and thrive more than the larger species; it’s best to group all these plants together.


CHAPTER XV.

SELECTIONS OF HARDY EXOTIC PLANTS FOR VARIOUS POSITIONS IN THE WILD GARDEN.
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SELECTIONS OF HARDY EXOTIC PLANTS FOR VARIOUS POSITIONS IN THE WILD GARDEN.
ill163

Ophrys in grass.

Orchid in grass.

As it is desirable to know how to procure as well as how to select the best kinds, a few words on the first subject may not be amiss here.

As it's important to know how to obtain and how to choose the best types, a few words on the first topic may be useful here.

A very important point is the getting of a stock of plants to begin with. In country or other places where many good old border flowers remain in the cottage gardens, many species may be collected therein. A series of nursery beds should be formed in some by–place in which such subjects could be increased to any desired degree. Free–growing spring–flowers like Aubrietia, Alyssum, and Iberis, may be multiplied to any extent by division or cuttings. Numbers of kinds may be raised from seed sown rather thinly in drills, in nursery beds in the open air. The catalogues should be searched every Spring for suitable subjects. The best time for sowing is the Spring, but any time during the Summer will do. Many perennials and bulbs must be bought in nurseries and increased as well as may be in nursery beds. As to soil, etc., the best way is to avoid the trouble of preparing it except for specially interesting plants. The great point is to adapt the plant to the soil—in peaty places to place plants that thrive in peat, in clay soils those that thrive in clays, and so on. Among coarse vegetation the best way is to dig the ground deeply before planting, so[164] as to allow the planted subjects to become well established. The ground is so dried, and exhausted and impoverished in some woodland places with coarse weeds, that so much preparation is necessary.

A very important point is getting a stock of plants to start with. In rural or other areas where many classic border flowers still exist in cottage gardens, many species can be collected there. A series of nursery beds should be set up in a secluded spot where these plants can be multiplied as much as needed. Free-growing spring flowers like Aubrietia, Alyssum, and Iberis can be increased through division or cuttings. Various types can be grown from seeds sown rather thinly in rows in nursery beds outdoors. Catalogs should be checked every spring for suitable plants. The best time to sow is in the spring, but any time during summer works too. Many perennials and bulbs need to be purchased from nurseries and increased in nursery beds as much as possible. Regarding soil, it’s best to skip the hassle of preparing it except for particularly interesting plants. The key is to match the plant to the soil—put moisture-loving plants in peaty areas, clay-loving plants in clay soils, and so on. When dealing with dense vegetation, the best practice is to dig deep before planting so as to help the plants establish well. In some woodland areas with thick weeds, the ground can be very dry, depleted, and poor, making thorough preparation essential.

A selection of Plants for Naturalisation in places devoid of any but dwarf vegetation, on bare banks, etc., and in poorish soil.

A variety of plants for naturalization in areas lacking anything but low vegetation, on bare slopes, etc., and in less than ideal soil.

Dielytra eximia.
     ”    formosa.
Cheiranthus alpinus.
Arabis albida.
Aubrietia, in var.
Alyssum saxatile.
Odontarrhena carsinum.
Iberis corifolia.
    ”    sempervirens.
    ”    correæfolia.
Thlaspi latifolium.
Æthionema coridifolium.
Helianthemum, in var.
Viola cornuta.
    ”  cucullata.
Gypsophila repens.
Tunica Saxifraga.
Saponaria ocymoides.
Silene alpestris.
    ”    Schafta.
Cerastium Biebersteinii.
          ”    grandiflorum.
          ”    tomentosum.
Linum alpinum.
    ”  arboreum.
    ”  flavum.
Geranium Wallichianum.
      ”    striatum.
      ”    cinereum, and others.
Oxalis floribunda.
Genista sagittalis.
Anthyllis montana.
Astragalus monspessulanus.
Coronilla varia.
Hedysarum obscurum.
Vicia argentea.
Orobus vernus.
    ”    lathyroides.
Waldsteinia trifolia.
Potentilla calabra.
Œnothera speciosa.
            ”    missouriensis.
            ”    taraxacifolia.
Sedum dentatum.
    ”  kamtschaticum.
    ”  Sieboldii.
    ”  spectabile.
    ”  spurium.
Sempervivum calcareum.
        ”      hirtum.
        ”      montanum.
        ”      soboliferum.
        ”      sedoides.
Saxifraga Aizoon.
        ”    cordifolia.
        ”    crassifolia.
        ”    crustata.
        ”    longifolia.
        ”    Cotyledon.
        ”    rosularis.
Astrantia major.
Dondia Epipactis.
Athamanta Matthioli.
Cornus canadensis.
Scabiosa caucasica.
Hieracium aurantiacum.
Doronicum caucasicum.
Aster alpinus.
Tussilago fragrans.
Achillea aurea.
Symphyandra pendula.
Campanula carpatica.
        ”    fragilis.
        ”    garganica.
        ”    cæspitosa.
Gaultheria procumbens.
Vinca herbacea.
Gentiana acaulis.
Phlox stolonifera.
    ”  subulata.
Lithospermum prostratum.
Pulmonaria grandiflora.
        ”      mollis.
Myosotis dissitiflora.
Physalis Alkekengi.
Pentstemon procerus.
Veronica austriaca.
      ”    candida.
      ”    taurica.
Teucrium Chamædrys.
Ajuga genevensis.
Scutellaria alpina.
Prunella grandiflora.
Stachys lanata.
Zietenia lavandulæfolia.
Dodecatheon Meadia.
Acantholimon glumaceum.
Armeria cephalotes.
Plumbago Larpentæ.
Polygonum Brunonis.
        ”    vaccinifolium.
Euphorbia Cyparissias.
Iris cristata.
  “  graminea.
  “  pumila.
  “  reticulata.
  “  nudicaulis.

Dielytra eximia.
     ”    formosa.
Cheiranthus alpinus.
Arabis albida.
Aubrietia, in var.
Alyssum saxatile.
Odontarrhena carsinum.
Iberis corifolia.
    ”    sempervirens.
    ”    correæfolia.
Thlaspi latifolium.
Æthionema coridifolium.
Helianthemum, in var.
Viola cornuta.
    ”  cucullata.
Gypsophila repens.
Tunica Saxifraga.
Saponaria ocymoides.
Silene alpestris.
    ”    Schafta.
Cerastium Biebersteinii.
          ”    grandiflorum.
          ”    tomentosum.
Linum alpinum.
    ”  arboreum.
    ”  flavum.
Geranium Wallichianum.
      ”    striatum.
      ”    cinereum, and others.
Oxalis floribunda.
Genista sagittalis.
Anthyllis montana.
Astragalus monspessulanus.
Coronilla varia.
Hedysarum obscurum.
Vicia argentea.
Orobus vernus.
    ”    lathyroides.
Waldsteinia trifolia.
Potentilla calabra.
Œnothera speciosa.
            ”    missouriensis.
            ”    taraxacifolia.
Sedum dentatum.
    ”  kamtschaticum.
    ”  Sieboldii.
    ”  spectabile.
    ”  spurium.
Sempervivum calcareum.
        ”      hirtum.
        ”      montanum.
        ”      soboliferum.
        ”      sedoides.
Saxifraga Aizoon.
        ”    cordifolia.
        ”    crassifolia.
        ”    crustata.
        ”    longifolia.
        ”    Cotyledon.
        ”    rosularis.
Astrantia major.
Dondia Epipactis.
Athamanta Matthioli.
Cornus canadensis.
Scabiosa caucasica.
Hieracium aurantiacum.
Doronicum caucasicum.
Aster alpinus.
Tussilago fragrans.
Achillea aurea.
Symphyandra pendula.
Campanula carpatica.
        ”    fragilis.
        ”    garganica.
        ”    cæspitosa.
Gaultheria procumbens.
Vinca herbacea.
Gentiana acaulis.
Phlox stolonifera.
    ”  subulata.
Lithospermum prostratum.
Pulmonaria grandiflora.
        ”      mollis.
Myosotis dissitiflora.
Physalis Alkekengi.
Pentstemon procerus.
Veronica austriaca.
      ”    candida.
      ”    taurica.
Teucrium Chamædrys.
Ajuga genevensis.
Scutellaria alpina.
Prunella grandiflora.
Stachys lanata.
Zietenia lavandulæfolia.
Dodecatheon Meadia.
Acantholimon glumaceum.
Armeria cephalotes.
Plumbago Larpentæ.
Polygonum Brunonis.
        ”    vaccinifolium.
Euphorbia Cyparissias.
Iris cristata.
  “  graminea.
  “  pumila.
  “  reticulata.
  “  nudicaulis.

Plants of vigorous habit for the Wild Garden.

Hardy plants for the Wild Garden.

Trollius altaicus.
      ”    napellifolius, or any other kind.
Thalictrum aquilegifolium.
Delphinium, in var.
Aconitum, in var.
Pæonia, in great var.
Papaver orientale.
    ”    bracteatum.
Macleya cordata.
Datisca cannabina.
Crambe cordifolia.
Althæa ficifolia.
      ”  nudiflora.
      ”  taurinensis.
Lavate a Olbia.
Galega officinalis.
[165]    ”    biloba.
Lathyrus latifolius.
      ”    grandiflorus, and any others.
Lupinus polyphyllus.
Thermopsis barbata.
Spiræa Aruncus.
Astilbe rivularis.
      ”    rubra.
Molopospermum cicutarium.
Ferula communis.
    ”    glauca.
    ”    tingitana.
    ”    sulcata.
Statice latifolia.
Peucedanum involucratum.
          ”    longifolium.
Heracleum flavescens.
        ”    giganteum.
Dipsacus laciniatus.
Mulgedium Plumieri.
Alfredia cernua.
Onopordon tauricum.
Centaurea babylonica.
Echinops bannaticus.
      ”    exaltatus.
      ”    ruthenicus.
      ”    purpureus.
Aster elegans.
    ”  Novi Belgii.
    ”  Novæ Angliæ.
    ”  pyrenæus.
    ”  ericoides, and any other good kinds.
Eupatorium purpureum.
Telekia cordifolia.
Helianthus angustifolius.
        ”      multiflorus.
        ”      orgyalis.
Harpalium rigidum.
Silphium perfoliatum.
Campanula, all the tall and strong growing kinds.
Asclepias Cornuti.
        ”    Douglasii.
Verbascum Chaixii.
Physostegia imbricata.
        ”      speciosa.
Acanthus latifolius.
      ”    spinosus.
      ”    spinosissimus.
Phytolacca decandra.
Polygonum Sieboldii.
Rheum Emodi.
    ”  palmatum.
Achillea Eupatorium.
Bambusa falcata.
Veratrum album.
Yucca filamentosa.
    ”  flaccida.
    ”  recurva.
    ”  gloriosa.
Peucedanum ruthenicum.
Astragalus ponticus.

Trollius altaicus.
      ”    napellifolius, or any other kind.
Thalictrum aquilegifolium.
Delphinium, in various types.
Aconitum, in various types.
Pæonia, in many varieties.
Papaver orientale.
    ”    bracteatum.
Macleya cordata.
Datisca cannabina.
Crambe cordifolia.
Althæa ficifolia.
      ”  nudiflora.
      ”  taurinensis.
Lavate a Olbia.
Galega officinalis.
[165]    ”    biloba.
Lathyrus latifolius.
      ”    grandiflorus, and any others.
Lupinus polyphyllus.
Thermopsis barbata.
Spiræa Aruncus.
Astilbe rivularis.
      ”    rubra.
Molopospermum cicutarium.
Ferula communis.
    ”    glauca.
    ”    tingitana.
    ”    sulcata.
Statice latifolia.
Peucedanum involucratum.
          ”    longifolium.
Heracleum flavescens.
        ”    giganteum.
Dipsacus laciniatus.
Mulgedium Plumieri.
Alfredia cernua.
Onopordon tauricum.
Centaurea babylonica.
Echinops bannaticus.
      ”    exaltatus.
      ”    ruthenicus.
      ”    purpureus.
Aster elegans.
    ”  Novi Belgii.
    ”  Novæ Angliæ.
    ”  pyrenæus.
    ”  ericoides, and any other good varieties.
Eupatorium purpureum.
Telekia cordifolia.
Helianthus angustifolius.
        ”      multiflorus.
        ”      orgyalis.
Harpalium rigidum.
Silphium perfoliatum.
Campanula, all the tall and strong-growing kinds.
Asclepias Cornuti.
        ”    Douglasii.
Verbascum Chaixii.
Physostegia imbricata.
        ”      speciosa.
Acanthus latifolius.
      ”    spinosus.
      ”    spinosissimus.
Phytolacca decandra.
Polygonum Sieboldii.
Rheum Emodi.
    ”  palmatum.
Achillea Eupatorium.
Bambusa falcata.
Veratrum album.
Yucca filamentosa.
    ”  flaccida.
    ”  recurva.
    ”  gloriosa.
Peucedanum ruthenicum.
Astragalus ponticus.

Hardy Plants with fine foliage or graceful habit suitable for Naturalisation.

Durable plants with delicate leaves or elegant shapes that are great for naturalization.

Acanthus, several species.
Asclepias syriaca.
Statice latifolia.
Polygonum cuspidatum.
        ”    sachalinense.
Rheum Emodi, and other kinds.
Euphorbia Cyparissias.
Datisca cannabina.
Veratrum album.
Crambe cordifolia.
Althæa taurinensis.
Elymus arenarius.
Bambusa, several species.
Arundinaria falcata.
Yucca, several species.
Verbascum Chaixii.
Spiræa Aruncus.
Astilbe rivularis.
      ”    rubra.
Eryngium, several species.
Ferula, several species.
Phytolacca decandra.
Centaurea babylonica.
Actæa, in var.
Cimicifuga racemosa.
Peucedanum ruthenicum.
Heracleum, several species.
Aralia japonica.
    ”    edulis.
Macleaya cordata.
Panicum bulbosum.
      ”    virgatum.
Dipsacus laciniatus.
Alfredia cernua.
Carlina acanthifolia.
Telekia cordifolia.
Echinops exaltatus.
      ”    ruthenicus.
Helianthus orgyalis.
        ”      multiflorus, and vars.
Silybum eburneum.
      ”    Marianum.
Onopordon Acanthium.
        ”    arabicum.

Acanthus, various species.
Asclepias syriaca.
Statice latifolia.
Polygonum cuspidatum.
        ”    sachalinense.
Rheum Emodi, and other types.
Euphorbia Cyparissias.
Datisca cannabina.
Veratrum album.
Crambe cordifolia.
Althæa taurinensis.
Elymus arenarius.
Bambusa, various species.
Arundinaria falcata.
Yucca, various species.
Verbascum Chaixii.
Spiræa Aruncus.
Astilbe rivularis.
      ”    rubra.
Eryngium, various species.
Ferula, various species.
Phytolacca decandra.
Centaurea babylonica.
Actæa, in varieties.
Cimicifuga racemosa.
Peucedanum ruthenicum.
Heracleum, various species.
Aralia japonica.
    ”    edulis.
Macleaya cordata.
Panicum bulbosum.
      ”    virgatum.
Dipsacus laciniatus.
Alfredia cernua.
Carlina acanthifolia.
Telekia cordifolia.
Echinops exaltatus.
      ”    ruthenicus.
Helianthus orgyalis.
        ”      multiflorus, and varieties.
Silybum eburneum.
      ”    Marianum.
Onopordon Acanthium.
        ”    arabicum.

Plants for Hedge–banks and like Places.

Plants for Hedge Banks and Similar Areas.

Clematis in great var.
Thalictrum aquilegifolium.
Anemone japonica and vars.
Delphinium, in var.
Aconitum, in var.
Macleaya cordata.
Kitaibelia vitifolia.
Tropæolum speciosum.
Baptisia australis.
Coronilla varia.
Galega officinalis, both white and pink forms.
Galega biloba.
Astragalus ponticus.
Lathyrus grandiflorus.
        ”    rotundifolius.
        ”    latifolius.
        ”    latifolius albus.
Lupinus polyphyllus.
Rubus biflorus.
Œnothera Lamarckiana.
Astilbe rivularis.
Ferula, in var.
Campanula, in great var.
Calystegia dahurica.
[166]        ”      pubescens.
Verbascum Chaixii.
Pentstemon barbatus.
Veronica, tall kinds in var.
Phlomis Russelliana.
      ”    herba–venti.
Physostegia speciosa.
        ”      virginica.
Acanthus spinosus.
Lilies, common kinds.
Narcissus, common kinds.
Scillas, in var.
Statice latifolia.
Phytolacca decandra.
Aristolochia Sipho.
Asparagus Broussoneti.
      ”      officinalis.
Vitis, in var.
Honeysuckles, in var.
Leucojum, in var.
Fritillary, in var.

Clematis in various types.
Thalictrum aquilegifolium.
Anemone japonica and varieties.
Delphinium, in various types.
Aconitum, in various types.
Macleaya cordata.
Kitaibelia vitifolia.
Tropæolum speciosum.
Baptisia australis.
Coronilla varia.
Galega officinalis, both white and pink forms.
Galega biloba.
Astragalus ponticus.
Lathyrus grandiflorus.
        ”    rotundifolius.
        ”    latifolius.
        ”    latifolius albus.
Lupinus polyphyllus.
Rubus biflorus.
Œnothera Lamarckiana.
Astilbe rivularis.
Ferula, in various types.
Campanula, in various types.
Calystegia dahurica.
[166]        ”      pubescens.
Verbascum Chaixii.
Pentstemon barbatus.
Veronica, tall kinds in various types.
Phlomis Russelliana.
      ”    herba–venti.
Physostegia speciosa.
        ”      virginica.
Acanthus spinosus.
Lilies, common varieties.
Narcissus, common varieties.
Scillas, in various types.
Statice latifolia.
Phytolacca decandra.
Aristolochia Sipho.
Asparagus Broussoneti.
      ”      officinalis.
Vitis, in various types.
Honeysuckles, in various types.
Leucojum, in various types.
Fritillary, in various types.

Trailers, Climbers, etc.

Trailers, Climbers, etc.

The selection of plants to cover bowers, trellises, railings, old trees, stumps, rootwork, etc., suitably, is important, particularly as the plants fitted for these purposes are equally useful for rough rockwork, precipitous banks, flanks of rustic bridges, river–banks, ruins, covering cottages or outhouses, and many other uses in garden, pleasure–ground, or wilderness.

The choice of plants to cover arches, trellises, railings, old trees, stumps, roots, etc., is crucial, especially since the plants that work for these applications are also great for rough rockwork, steep banks, the sides of rustic bridges, riverbanks, ruins, and for covering cottages or outbuildings, as well as many other uses in gardens, recreational areas, or natural settings.

Vitis æstivalis.
    ”  amooriensis.
    ”  cordifolia.
    ”  heterophylla variegata
    ”  Isabella.
    ”  Labrusca.
    ”  laciniosa.
    ”  riparia.
    ”  Sieboldii.
    ”  vinifera apiifolia.
    ”  vulpina.
Aristolochia Sipho.
            ”      tomentosa.
Clematis, in great variety, both species and hybrids.
Calystegia dahurica.
        ”      pubescens plena.
Wistaria sinensis.
Asparagus Broussoneti.
Periploca græca.
Hablitzia tamnoides.
Boussingaultia baselloides.
Menispermum canadense.
          ”      virginicum.
Cissus orientalis.
    ”    pubescens.
Ampelopsis bipinnata.
        ”      cordata.
        ”      hederacea.
        ”      tricuspidata.
Jasminum nudiflorum.
      ”    officinale.
      ”    revolutum.
Passiflora cœrulea.
Lonicera Caprifolium.
      ”    confusa.
      ”    flava.
      ”    japonica.
      ”    Periclymenum.

Vitis æstivalis.
    ”  amooriensis.
    ”  cordifolia.
    ”  heterophylla variegata
    ”  Isabella.
    ”  Labrusca.
    ”  laciniosa.
    ”  riparia.
    ”  Sieboldii.
    ”  vinifera apiifolia.
    ”  vulpina.
Aristolochia Sipho.
            ”      tomentosa.
Clematis, in a wide range, including both species and hybrids.
Calystegia dahurica.
        ”      pubescens plena.
Wistaria sinensis.
Asparagus Broussoneti.
Periploca græca.
Hablitzia tamnoides.
Boussingaultia baselloides.
Menispermum canadense.
          ”      virginicum.
Cissus orientalis.
    ”    pubescens.
Ampelopsis bipinnata.
        ”      cordata.
        ”      hederacea.
        ”      tricuspidata.
Jasminum nudiflorum.
      ”    officinale.
      ”    revolutum.
Passiflora cœrulea.
Lonicera Caprifolium.
      ”    confusa.
      ”    flava.
      ”    japonica.
      ”    Periclymenum.

Spring and early Summer Flowers for Naturalisation.

Spring and early Summer Flowers for Naturalization.

Anemone alpina.
      ”      ”    sulphurea.
      ”    apennina.
      ”    blanda.
      ”    Coronaria.
      ”    fulgens.
      ”    Hepatica.
      ”    ranunculoides.
      ”    trifolia.
Ranunculus aconitifolius.
        ”      amplexicaulis.
        ”      montanus.
Helleborus niger.
        ”      olympicus, and many other kinds.
Eranthis hyemalis.
Aquilegia vulgaris.
Pæonia, many kinds.
Epimedium pinnatum.
Papaver croceum.
    ”    bracteatum.
    ”    orientale.
Dielytra eximia.
      ”    spectabilis.
Corydalis capnoides.
      ”      lutea.
Cheiranthus alpinus.
        ”      Cheiri.
Arabis.
Aubrietia, various.
Alyssum saxatile.
Iberis corifolia.
    ”    sempervirens.
    ”    correæfolia.
Viola cornuta.
Saponaria ocymoides.
Silene alpestris.
Arenaria montana.
Ononis fruticosa.
Vicia argentea.
Orobus flaccidus.
    ”    cyaneus.
    ”    lathyroides.
    ”    variegatus.
    ”    vernus.
Centranthus ruber.
Centaurea montana.
Doronicum caucasicum.
Thlaspi latifolium.
Hesperis matronalis.
Erica carnea.
Vinca major.
Gentiana acaulis.
Phlox reptans.
Pulmonaria grandiflora.
      ”      mollis.
Symphytum bohemicum.
        ”    caucasicum.
[167]Myosotis dissitiflora.
Omphalodes verna.
Verbascum Chaixii.
Dodecatheon Jeffreyi.
        ”      Meadia.
Cyclamen europæum.
Cyclamen hederæfolium.
Primula, in var.
Iris amœna.
    ”  cristata.
    ”  De Bergii.
    ”  flavescens.
    ”  florentina.
    ”  germanica.
    ”  graminea.
    ”  ochroleuca.
    ”  pallida.
    ”  sambucina.
    ”  sub–biflora.
    ”  variegata, and many other kinds.
Crocus aureus.
    ”    speciosus.
    ”    versicolor.
    ”    susianus, and many others.
Narcissus angustifolius.
      ”      Bulbocodium.
      ”      bicolor.
      ”      incomparabilis.
      ”      major.
      ”      montanus.
      ”      odorus.
      ”      poeticus & vars.
Galanthus, in var.
Leucojum pulchellum.
        ”    vernum.
Paradisia Liliastrum.
Ornithogalum umbellatum.
Scilla amœna.
      ”  bifolia.
      ”  campanulata.
      ”  patula.
      ”  italica.
      ”  sibirica.
Hyacinthus amethystinus.
Muscari botryoides.
      ”    moschatum, and various others.
Allium neapolitanum.
    ”    ciliatum.
Tulipa Gesneriana.
    ”    suaveolens.
    ”    scabriscapa and many others.
Fritillaria, in var.
Bulbocodium vernum.

Anemone alpina.
      ”      ”    sulphurea.
      ”    apennina.
      ”    blanda.
      ”    coronaria.
      ”    fulgens.
      ”    hepatica.
      ”    ranunculoides.
      ”    trifolia.
Ranunculus aconitifolius.
        ”      amplexicaulis.
        ”      montanus.
Helleborus niger.
        ”      olympicus, and many other varieties.
Eranthis hyemalis.
Aquilegia vulgaris.
Pæonia, many varieties.
Epimedium pinnatum.
Papaver croceum.
    ”    bracteatum.
    ”    orientale.
Dielytra eximia.
      ”    spectabilis.
Corydalis capnoides.
      ”      lutea.
Cheiranthus alpinus.
        ”      cheiri.
Arabis.
Aubrietia, various types.
Alyssum saxatile.
Iberis corifolia.
    ”    sempervirens.
    ”    correæfolia.
Viola cornuta.
Saponaria ocymoides.
Silene alpestris.
Arenaria montana.
Ononis fruticosa.
Vicia argentea.
Orobus flaccidus.
    ”    cyaneus.
    ”    lathyroides.
    ”    variegatus.
    ”    vernus.
Centranthus ruber.
Centaurea montana.
Doronicum caucasicum.
Thlaspi latifolium.
Hesperis matronalis.
Erica carnea.
Vinca major.
Gentiana acaulis.
Phlox reptans.
Pulmonaria grandiflora.
      ”      mollis.
Symphytum bohemicum.
        ”    caucasicum.
[167]Myosotis dissitiflora.
Omphalodes verna.
Verbascum Chaixii.

Plants for Naturalisation beneath specimen Trees on Lawns, etc.

Plants for Naturalizing under Specimen Trees on Lawns, etc.

Where, as is frequently the case, the branches of trees, both evergreen and deciduous, sweep the turf—and this, as a rule, they should be allowed to do where they are planted in ornamental grounds—a great number of pretty spring flowers may be naturalised beneath the branches, where they thrive without attention. It is chiefly in the case of deciduous trees that this could be done; but even in the case of conifers and evergreens some graceful objects might be dotted beneath the outermost points of their lower branches. However, it is the specimen deciduous tree that offers us the best opportunities in this way. We know that a great number of our spring flowers and hardy bulbs mature their foliage and go to rest early in the year. They require light and sun in spring, which they obtain abundantly under the deciduous tree; they have time to flower and develop their leaves under it before the foliage of the tree appears; then, as the summer heats approach, they are gradually overshadowed by a cool canopy, and go to rest undisturbed; but, the leaves of the trees once fallen, they soon begin to appear again and cover the ground with beauty.

Where, as is often the case, the branches of trees, both evergreen and deciduous, touch the ground—and typically, they should be allowed to do so when planted in decorative gardens—many beautiful spring flowers can be naturalized beneath the branches, where they thrive without care. This is mainly possible with deciduous trees, but even with conifers and evergreens, some lovely plants could be placed beneath the outermost tips of their lower branches. However, it is the individual deciduous tree that offers us the best opportunities in this regard. We know that many of our spring flowers and hardy bulbs grow their foliage and go dormant early in the year. They need light and sunshine in spring, which they get abundantly under the deciduous tree; they have time to bloom and develop their leaves before the tree's foliage appears. Then, as summer heats approach, they are gradually shaded by a cool canopy and rest peacefully; but once the leaves of the trees have fallen, they soon start to re-emerge and beautify the ground.

An example or two will perhaps explain the matter more fully. Take the case of, say, a spreading old specimen of any summer–leafing tree. Scatter a few tufts of the winter Aconite beneath it, and leave them alone. In a very few years they will have covered the ground; every year afterwards they will spread a golden carpet beneath the tree; and when it fades there will be no eyesore from decaying leaves[168] as there would be on a border—no necessity for replacing the plants with others; the tree puts forth its leaves, covering the ground till Autumn, and in early spring we again see our little friend in all the vigour of his glossy leaves and golden buttons. In this way this pretty spring flower may be seen to much greater advantage, in a much more pleasing position than in the ordinary way of putting it in patches and rings in beds or borders, and with a tithe of the trouble. There are many other subjects of which the same is true. We have only to imagine this done in a variety of cases to see to what a beautiful and novel result it would lead. Given the bright blue Apennine Anemone under one tree, the spring Snowflake under another, the delicate blue and pencilled Crocuses, and so on, we should have a spring garden of the most beautiful kind. The same plan could be carried out under the branches of a grove as well as of specimen trees. Very attractive mixed plantations might be made by dotting tall subjects like the large Jonquil (Narcissus odorus) among dwarf spreading plants like the Anemone, and also by mixing dwarf plants of various colours: diversely coloured varieties of the same species of Anemone, for example.

A couple of examples might clarify this further. Consider an old summer-leafing tree. Just scatter some tufts of winter Aconite beneath it and leave them be. In just a few years, they’ll cover the ground; every year after that, they’ll create a golden carpet under the tree. When the Aconite fades, there won’t be any messy decaying leaves like you’d have in a border—no need to replace the plants with others; the tree will grow its leaves, hiding the ground until autumn. In early spring, we’ll see our little friend again, vibrant with glossy leaves and golden blooms. This way, this lovely spring flower can be enjoyed much better, in a much more attractive setting than if it were just planted in patches and rings in beds or borders, and with a fraction of the effort. Many other plants can benefit from this approach as well. If we imagine this happening in various situations, we can see what a beautiful and unique result it would create. Picture the bright blue Apennine Anemone under one tree, the spring Snowflake under another, the delicate blue and patterned Crocuses, and so on—we’d have an absolutely stunning spring garden. This same method can be applied under the branches of a grove, as well as around individual trees. Attractive mixed plantings could be created by placing taller plants like the large Jonquil (Narcissus odorus) among low-spreading plants like the Anemone, and by mixing dwarf plants of different colors: variously colored forms of the same species of Anemone, for example.

Omitting the various pretty British plants that would thrive in the positions indicated—these are not likely to be unknown to the reader interested in such matters—and confining the selection to dwarf, hardy, exotic flowers alone, the following are selected as among the most suitable for such arrangements as that just described, with some little attention as to the season of flowering and the kind of soil required by some rather uncommon species. A late–flowering kind, for example, should be planted under late–leafing trees, or towards the points of their branches, so that they might not be obscured by the leaves of the tree before perfecting their flowers.

Omitting the various attractive British plants that would thrive in the suggested spots—these are probably familiar to readers who are interested in such topics—and focusing only on dwarf, hardy, exotic flowers, the following are chosen as some of the most suitable for the types of arrangements just mentioned, with a bit of consideration for the blooming season and the type of soil needed by some less common species. For instance, a late-blooming variety should be planted under trees that leaf out late, or toward the ends of their branches, so they won't be hidden by the leaves before they full bloom.

Anemone angulosa.
      ”    apennina.
      ”    blanda.
      ”    Coronaria.
      ”    fulgens.
      ”    Hepatica.
      ”    stellata.
      ”    sylvestris.
      ”    trifolia.
Arum italicum.
Bulbocodium vernum.
Corydalis solida.
      ”      tuberosa.
Crocus Imperati.
      ”  biflorus.
      ”  reticulatus.
      ”  versicolor, and many others.
Cyclamen hederæfolium.
Eranthis hyemalis.
Erythronium Dens–canis.
Ficaria grandiflora.
Snowdrop, all the kinds.
Snowflake, all the kinds.
Iris reticulata.
Grape Hyacinths.
Grape Hyacinths Muscari,
any of the numerous kinds.
Narcissus, in var.
Puschkinia scilloides.
Sanguinaria canadensis.
Scilla bifolia.
      ”  sibirica.
      ”  campanulata.
Sisyrinchium grandiflorum.
Trillium grandiflorum (peat or leaf soil).
Tulipa, in var.

Anemone angulosa.
      ”    apennina.
      ”    blanda.
      ”    Coronaria.
      ”    fulgens.
      ”    Hepatica.
      ”    stellata.
      ”    sylvestris.
      ”    trifolia.
Arum italicum.
Bulbocodium vernum.
Corydalis solida.
      ”      tuberosa.
Crocus Imperati.
      ”  biflorus.
      ”  reticulatus.
      ”  versicolor, and many others.
Cyclamen hederæfolium.
Eranthis hyemalis.
Erythronium Dens–canis.
Ficaria grandiflora.
Snowdrop, all types.
Snowflake, all types.
Iris reticulata.
Grape Hyacinths.
Grape Hyacinths Muscari,
any of the many types.
Narcissus, various types.
Puschkinia scilloides.
Sanguinaria canadensis.
Scilla bifolia.
      ”  sibirica.
      ”  campanulata.
Sisyrinchium grandiflorum.
Trillium grandiflorum (peat or leaf soil).
Tulipa, various types.

Plants for very moist rich Soils.

Plants for very wet, nutrient-rich soils.

Althæa, in var.
Astilbe rivularis.
Aralia edulis.
      ”  nudicaulis.
Artemisia, in var.
Asclepias Cornuti.
Asphodelus ramosus.
Aster, in var.
Baptisia exaltata.
Butomus umbellatus.
Calla palustris.
Caltha palustris fl. pl.
Campanula glomerata, and large kinds.
Convallaria multiflora.
Colchicum, in var.
Crinum capense.
Cypripedium spectabile.
Datisca cannabina.
Echinops, in var.
Elymus, in var.
Epilobium, in var.
Eupatorium, in var.
Ficaria grandiflora.
Galax aphylla.
Galega officinalis.
Gentiana asclepiadea.
Helianthus multiflorus,
single and double forms.
Helianthus orgyalis.
      ”      rigidus.
Helonias bullata.
Hemerocallis, in var.
Heracleum, in var.
Iris ochreleuca.
Liatris, in var.
Lythrum (roseum superbum).
Mimulas, in var.
Molopospermum cicutarium.
Mulgedium Plumieri.
Narcissus, stronger kinds.
Œnothera, large kinds.
Omphalodes verna.
Onopordon, in var.
Phlomis herba–venti.
      ”    Russelliana.
Physostegia speciosa.
Phytolacca decandra.
Rudbeckia hirta.
Ranunculus amplexicaulis.
      ”      parnassifolius.
Sanguinaria canadensis.
Solidago, in var.
Spiræa Aruncus.
Statice latifolia.
Silphium, in var.
Swertia perennis.
Telekia speciosa.
Thalictrum, in var.
Trollius, in var.
Vaccinium, in var.
Veratrum, in var.

Althæa, in various types.
Astilbe rivularis.
Aralia edulis.
      ”  nudicaulis.
Artemisia, in various types.
Asclepias Cornuti.
Asphodelus ramosus.
Aster, in various types.
Baptisia exaltata.
Butomus umbellatus.
Calla palustris.
Caltha palustris double flower.
Campanula glomerata, and larger varieties.
Convallaria multiflora.
Colchicum, in various types.
Crinum capense.
Cypripedium spectabile.
Datisca cannabina.
Echinops, in various types.
Elymus, in various types.
Epilobium, in various types.
Eupatorium, in various types.
Ficaria grandiflora.
Galax aphylla.
Galega officinalis.
Gentiana asclepiadea.
Helianthus multiflorus,
single and double forms.
Helianthus orgyalis.
      ”     rigidus.
Helonias bullata.
Hemerocallis, in various types.
Heracleum, in various types.
Iris ochreleuca.
Liatris, in various types.
Lythrum (roseum superbum).
Mimulas, in various types.
Molopospermum cicutarium.
Mulgedium Plumieri.
Narcissus, stronger types.
Œnothera, larger types.
Omphalodes verna.
Onopordon, in various types.
Phlomis herba–venti.
      ” Russelliana.
Physostegia speciosa.
Phytolacca decandra.
Rudbeckia hirta.
Ranunculus amplexicaulis.
      ”      parnassifolius.
Sanguinaria canadensis.
Solidago, in various types.
Spiræa Aruncus.
Statice latifolia.
Silphium, in various types.
Swertia perennis.
Telekia speciosa.
Thalictrum, in various types.
Trollius, in various types.
Vaccinium, in various types.
Veratrum, in various types.

Plants suited for Peat Soil.

Plants for Peat Soil.

Alstrœmeria, in var.
Calluna, in var.
Chimaphila maculata.
Chrysobactron Hookeri.
Coptis trifoliata.
Cornus canadensis.
Cypripedium spectabile.
Dentaria laciniata.
Daphne Cneorum.
Dryas octopetala.
Epigæa repens.
Epimedium, in var.
Funkia Sieboldii.
      ”  grandiflora.
Galax aphylla.
Gaultheria procumbens.
Gentians, in var.
Helonias bullata.
Iris nudicaulis, pumila, and vars.
Jeffersonia diphylla.
Linnæa borealis.
Podophyllum peltatum.
Podophyllum Eniodi.
Polygala Chamæbuxus.
Pyrola, in var.
Hardy Heaths, in var.
Ramondia pyrenaica.
Sisyrinchium grandiflorum.
Spigelia marilandica.
Trientalis europæa.
Trillium grandiflorum.
Lilies, in var.

Alstrœmeria, in var.
Calluna, in var.
Chimaphila maculata.
Chrysobactron Hookeri.
Coptis trifoliata.
Cornus canadensis.
Cypripedium spectabile.
Dentaria laciniata.
Daphne Cneorum.
Dryas octopetala.
Epigæa repens.
Epimedium, in var.
Funkia Sieboldii.
      ”  grandiflora.
Galax aphylla.
Gaultheria procumbens.
Gentians, in var.
Helonias bullata.
Iris nudicaulis, pumila, and vars.
Jeffersonia diphylla.
Linnæa borealis.
Podophyllum peltatum.
Podophyllum Eniodi.
Polygala Chamæbuxus.
Pyrola, in var.
Hardy Heaths, in var.
Ramondia pyrenaica.
Sisyrinchium grandiflorum.
Spigelia marilandica.
Trientalis europæa.
Trillium grandiflorum.
Lilies, in var.

Plants suited for Calcareous or Chalky Soil.

Plants suited for calcareous or chalky soil.

Adenophora, in var.
Æthionema, in var.
Anemone, in var.
Alyssum, in var.
Anthyllis montana.
Antirrhinum, in var.
Cistus, in var.
Cheiranthus, in var.
Campanula, in var.
Carduus eriophorus.
Cerastium, in var.
Coronilla, in var.
Dorycnium sericeum.
Dianthus, in var.
Echium, in var.
Erodium, in var.
Genista, in var.
Geum, in var.
Geranium, in var.
Gypsophila, in var.
Hedysarum, in var.
Helianthemum, in var.
Lunaria biennis.
Lupinus polyphyllus.
Onobrychis, in var.
Ononis, in var.
Ophrys, in var.
Othonna cheirifolia.
Phlomis, in var.
Prunella grandiflora.
Santolina, in var.
Saponaria ocymoides.
Saxifraga (the encrusted and the large–leaved kinds).
[170]Scabiosa, in var.
Sempervivum, in var.
Sedum, in var.
Symphytum, in var.
Thermopsis fabacea.
Thymus, in var.
Trachelium cœruleum.
Trifolium alpinum.
Triteleia uniflora.
Tunica Saxifraga.
Vesicaria utriculata.
Vicia, in var.
Vittadenia triloba.
Waldsteinia trifoliata.
          ”      geoides.

Adenophora, in variety.
Æthionema, in variety.
Anemone, in variety.
Alyssum, in variety.
Anthyllis montana.
Antirrhinum, in variety.
Cistus, in variety.
Cheiranthus, in variety.
Campanula, in variety.
Carduus eriophorus.
Cerastium, in variety.
Coronilla, in variety.
Dorycnium sericeum.
Dianthus, in variety.
Echium, in variety.
Erodium, in variety.
Genista, in variety.
Geum, in variety.
Geranium, in variety.
Gypsophila, in variety.
Hedysarum, in variety.
Helianthemum, in variety.
Lunaria biennis.
Lupinus polyphyllus.
Onobrychis, in variety.
Ononis, in variety.
Ophrys, in variety.
Othonna cheirifolia.
Phlomis, in variety.
Prunella grandiflora.
Santolina, in variety.
Saponaria ocymoides.
Saxifraga (the encrusted and large-leaved types).
[170]Scabiosa, in variety.
Sempervivum, in variety.
Sedum, in variety.
Symphytum, in variety.
Thermopsis fabacea.
Thymus, in variety.
Trachelium cœruleum.
Trifolium alpinum.
Triteleia uniflora.
Tunica Saxifraga.
Vesicaria utriculata.
Vicia, in variety.
Vittadenia triloba.
Waldsteinia trifoliata.
          ”      geoides.

Plants suited for Dry and Gravelly Soil.

Plants for Dry and Rocky Soil.

Achillæa, in var.
Æthionema cordifolium.
Agrostemma coronaria.
Alyssum saxatile.
Antennaria dioica.
Anthyllis montana.
Antirrhinum rupestre.
Arabis albida.
Aubrietia, in var.
Armeria cephalotes.
Artemisia, in var.
Cerastium, in var.
Carlina acanthifolia.
Cheiranthus, in var.
Chrysopsis mariana.
Cistus, in var.
Corydalis, in var.
Dianthus, in var.
Dracocephalum, in var.
Dielytra eximia.
Dorycnium sericeum.
Echium, in var.
Erodium, in var.
Eryngium, in var.
Euphorbia Myrsinites.
Fumaria, in var.
Geranium, in var.
Gypsophila, in var.
Helianthemum, in var.
Helichrysum arenarium.
Hypericum, in var.
Iberis, in var.
Jasione perennis.
Lavandula spica.
Linaria, in var.
Linum, in var.
Lupinus polyphyllus.
Modiola geranioides.
Narcissus, in var.
Nepeta Mussinii.
Onobrychis, in var.
Ononis, in var.
Ornithogalum, in var.
Plumbago Larpentæ.
Polygonum vaccinifolium.
Santolina, in var.
Scabiosa, in var.
Sedum, in great var.
Sempervivum, in great var.
Saponaria ocymoides.
Stachys lanata.
Teucrium Chamædrys.
Thlaspi latifolium.
Thymus, in var.
Trachelium, in var.
Tussilago fragrans.
        ”    Farfara variegata.
Verbascum, in var.
Vesicaria utriculata.

Achillæa, in various forms.
Æthionema cordifolium.
Agrostemma coronaria.
Alyssum saxatile.
Antennaria dioica.
Anthyllis montana.
Antirrhinum rupestre.
Arabis albida.
Aubrietia, in various forms.
Armeria cephalotes.
Artemisia, in various forms.
Cerastium, in various forms.
Carlina acanthifolia.
Cheiranthus, in various forms.
Chrysopsis mariana.
Cistus, in various forms.
Corydalis, in various forms.
Dianthus, in various forms.
Dracocephalum, in various forms.
Dielytra eximia.
Dorycnium sericeum.
Echium, in various forms.
Erodium, in various forms.
Eryngium, in various forms.
Euphorbia Myrsinites.
Fumaria, in various forms.
Geranium, in various forms.
Gypsophila, in various forms.
Helianthemum, in various forms.
Helichrysum arenarium.
Hypericum, in various forms.
Iberis, in various forms.
Jasione perennis.
Lavandula spica.
Linaria, in various forms.
Linum, in various forms.
Lupinus polyphyllus.
Modiola geranioides.
Narcissus, in various forms.
Nepeta Mussinii.
Onobrychis, in various forms.
Ononis, in various forms.
Ornithogalum, in various forms.
Plumbago Larpentæ.
Polygonum vaccinifolium.
Santolina, in various forms.
Scabiosa, in various forms.
Sedum, in many forms.
Sempervivum, in many forms.
Saponaria ocymoides.
Stachys lanata.
Teucrium Chamædrys.
Thlaspi latifolium.
Thymus, in various forms.
Trachelium, in various forms.
Tussilago fragrans.
        ”    Farfara variegata.
Verbascum, in various forms.
Vesicaria utriculata.

Selection of Plants for Growing on Old Walls, Ruins, or Rocky Slopes.

Choosing Plants to Grow on Old Walls, Ruins, or Rocky Slopes.

Achillea tomentosa.
Alyssum montanum saxatile (walls and ruins).
Antirrhinum rupestre.
          ”      majus.
          ”      Orontium.
Arenaria balearica.
        ”    cæspitosa.
        ”    ciliata.
        ”    graminifolia.
        ”    montana.
        ”    verna.
Arabis albida.
    ”    petræa.
Asperula cynanchica.
Campanula Barrelieri.
        ”    rotundifolia.
        ”    fragilis.
        ”    fragilis lanuginosa.
        ”    garganica.
        ”    pumila.
        ”    pumila alba.
Centranthus ruber.
        ”        ”    albus.
Centranthus ruber coccineus.
Cheiranthus alpinus.
        ”      Cheiri.
        ”          ”    pleno.
Coronilla minima.
Corydalis lutea.
Cotyledon Umbilicus.
Dianthus cæsius.
      ”    deltoides.
      ”    monspessulanus.
      ”    petræus.
Draba aizoides.
Erinus alpinus.
Erodium romanum.
      ”    Reichardii.
Gypsophila muralis.
        ”      prostrata.
Helianthemums.
Hutchinsia petræa.
Iberis.
Ionopsidium acaule.
Koniga maritima.
Linum alpinum.
Lychnis alpina.
Lychnis Flos Jovis.
      ”    lapponica.
Malva campanulata.
Santolina lanata.
Saponaria ocymoides.
Saxifraga bryoides.
        ”    caryophyllata.
        ”    cæsia.
        ”    crustata.
        ”    cuscutæformis.
        ”    diapensioides.
        ”    Hostii.
        ”    intacta.
        ”    ligulata.
        ”    longifolia.
        ”    pectinata.
        ”    pulchella.
        ”    retusa.
        ”    Rhei.
        ”    rosularis.
        ”    Rocheliana.
        ”    sarmentosa.
Sedum acre.
    ”  aureum.
[171]    ”  Aizoon.
Sedum album.
    ”  anglicum.
    ”  arenarium.
    ”  brevifolium.
    ”  californicum.
    ”  cœruleum.
    ”  dasyphyllum.
    ”  elegans.
    ”  Ewersii.
    ”  farinosum.
    ”  globiferum.
    ”  Heuffelli.
    ”  hirtum.
Sedum hispanicum.
    ”  kamschaticum.
    ”  montanum.
    ”  multiceps.
    ”  pilferum.
    ”  pulchrum.
    ”  sempervivoides.
Sempervivum arachnoideum.
          ”      soboliferum.
          ”      spurium.
          ”      sexangulare.
          ”      sexfidum.
Sempervivum tectorum.
Silene alpestris.
      ”  rupestris.
      ”  Schafta.
Symphiandra pendula.
Thlaspi alpestre.
Thymus citriodorus.
Trichomanes, and vars.
Tunica Saxifraga.
Umbilicus chrysanthus.
Veronica fruticulosa.
      ”    saxatilis.
Vesicaria utriculata.

Achillea tomentosa.
Alyssum montanum saxatile (walls and ruins).
Antirrhinum rupestre.
          ”      majus.
          ”      Orontium.
Arenaria balearica.
        ”    cæspitosa.
        ”    ciliata.
        ”    graminifolia.
        ”    montana.
        ”    verna.
Arabis albida.
    ”    petræa.
Asperula cynanchica.
Campanula Barrelieri.
        ”    rotundifolia.
        ”    fragilis.
        ”    fragilis lanuginosa.
        ”    garganica.
        ”    pumila.
        ”    pumila alba.
Centranthus ruber.
        ”        ”    albus.
Centranthus ruber coccineus.
Cheiranthus alpinus.
        ”      Cheiri.
        ”          ”    pleno.
Coronilla minima.
Corydalis lutea.
Cotyledon Umbilicus.
Dianthus cæsius.
      ”    deltoides.
      ”    monspessulanus.
      ”    petræus.
Draba aizoides.
Erinus alpinus.
Erodium romanum.
      ”    Reichardii.
Gypsophila muralis.
        ”      prostrata.
Helianthemums.
Hutchinsia petræa.
Iberis.
Ionopsidium acaule.
Koniga maritima.
Linum alpinum.
Lychnis alpina.
Lychnis Flos Jovis.
      ”    lapponica.
Malva campanulata.
Santolina lanata.
Saponaria ocymoides.
Saxifraga bryoides.
        ”    caryophyllata.
        ”    cæsia.
        ”    crustata.
        ”    cuscutæformis.
        ”    diapensioides.
        ”    Hostii.
        ”    intacta.
        ”    ligulata.
        ”    longifolia.
        ”    pectinata.
        ”    pulchella.
        ”    retusa.
        ”    Rhei.
        ”    rosularis.
        ”    Rocheliana.
        ”    sarmentosa.
Sedum acre.
    ”  aureum.
[171]    ”  Aizoon.
Sedum album.
    ”  anglicum.
    ”  arenarium.
    ”  brevifolium.
    ”  californicum.
    ”  cœruleum.
    ”  dasyphyllum.
    ”  elegans.
    ”  Ewersii.
    ”  farinosum.
    ”  globiferum.
    ”  Heuffelli.
    ”  hirtum.
Sedum hispanicum.
    ”  kamschaticum.
    ”  montanum.
    ”  multiceps.
    ”  pilferum.
    ”  pulchrum.
    ”  sempervivoides.
Sempervivum arachnoideum.
          ”      soboliferum.
          ”      spurium.
          ”      sexangulare.
          ”      sexfidum.
Sempervivum tectorum.
Silene alpestris.
      ”  rupestris.
      ”  Schafta.
Symphiandra pendula.
Thlaspi alpestre.
Thymus citriodorus.
Trichomanes, and vars.
Tunica Saxifraga.
Umbilicus chrysanthus.
Veronica fruticulosa.
      ”    saxatilis.
Vesicaria utriculata.

A Selection of Annual and Biennial Plants for Naturalisation.

A List of Annual and Biennial Plants for Naturalization.

Papaver somniferum.
Eschscholtzia californica.
Platystemon californicum.
Matthiola annua.
        ”    bicornis.
Arabis arenosa.
Alyssum maritimum.
Iberis coronaria.
      ”  umbellata.
Malcolmia maritima.
Erysimum Peroffskianum.
Gypsophila elegans.
Saponaria calabrica.
Silene Armeria.
Viscaria oculata.
Malope trifida.
Limnanthes Douglasii.
Ononis viscosa.
Œnothera odorata.
Godetia Lindleyana.
      ”    rubicunda.
Godetia tenella.
Clarkia elegans.
      ”    pulchella.
Eucharidium concinnum grandiflorum.
Amberboa moschata.
      ”    odorata.
Helianthus annuus.
Dimorphotheca pluvialis.
Gilia capitata.
    ”  tricolor.
Collomia coccinea.
Leptosiphon androsaceus.
          ”      densiflorus.
Nicandra physaloides.
Collinsia bicolor.
        ”    verna.
Dracocephalum nutans.
            ”      moldavicum.
Blitum capitatum.
Polygonum orientale.
Panicum capillare.
Bromus brizæformis.
Briza maxima.
    ”  gracilis.
Agrostis nebulosa.
Matthiola, in var.
Lunaria biennis.
Hesperis matronalis.
Erysimum asperum.
Silene pendula.
Hedysarum coronarium.
Œnothera Jamesi.
Œnothera Lamarckiana.
Dipsacus laciniatus.
Silybum eburneum.
Onopordum, in var.
Campanula Medium.
          ”      ”    rosea.
Verbascum phlomoides.

Papaver somniferum.
Eschscholtzia californica.
Platystemon californicum.
Matthiola annua.
        ”    bicornis.
Arabis arenosa.
Alyssum maritimum.
Iberis coronaria.
      ”  umbellata.
Malcolmia maritima.
Erysimum Peroffskianum.
Gypsophila elegans.
Saponaria calabrica.
Silene Armeria.
Viscaria oculata.
Malope trifida.
Limnanthes Douglasii.
Ononis viscosa.
Œnothera odorata.
Godetia Lindleyana.
      ”    rubicunda.
Godetia tenella.
Clarkia elegans.
      ”    pulchella.
Eucharidium concinnum grandiflorum.
Amberboa moschata.
      ”    odorata.
Helianthus annuus.
Dimorphotheca pluvialis.
Gilia capitata.
    ”  tricolor.
Collomia coccinea.
Leptosiphon androsaceus.
          ”      densiflorus.
Nicandra physaloides.
Collinsia bicolor.
        ”    verna.
Dracocephalum nutans.
            ”      moldavicum.
Blitum capitatum.
Polygonum orientale.
Panicum capillare.
Bromus brizæformis.
Briza maxima.
    ”  gracilis.
Agrostis nebulosa.
Matthiola, in var.
Lunaria biennis.
Hesperis matronalis.
Erysimum asperum.
Silene pendula.
Hedysarum coronarium.
Œnothera Jamesi.
Œnothera Lamarckiana.
Dipsacus laciniatus.
Silybum eburneum.
Onopordum, in var.
Campanula Medium.
          ”      ”    rosea.
Verbascum phlomoides.

Grasses for Naturalisation.

Grasses for Naturalization.

Agrostis nebulosa.
Briza maxima.
Brizopyrum siculum.
Bromus brizæformis.
Hordeum jubatum.
Panicum virgatum.
      ”    bulbosum.
      ”    capillare.
Polypogon monspeliensis.
Stipa gigantea.
    ”  pennata.
Milium multiflorum.

Agrostis nebulosa.
Briza maxima.
Brizopyrum siculum.
Bromus brizæformis.
Hordeum jubatum.
Panicum virgatum.
      ”    bulbosum.
      ”    capillare.
Polypogon monspeliensis.
Stipa gigantea.
    ”  pennata.
Milium multiflorum.

Some of our nobler grasses, like the Pampas and the New Zealand reeds, have not the qualities of perfect hardiness and power of increase without care in our climate, which would entitle them to a place in these selections. They belong to the garden proper.

Some of our finer grasses, like the Pampas and New Zealand reeds, don't have the qualities of full hardiness and the ability to thrive without maintenance in our climate, which would earn them a spot in these selections. They belong in the garden proper.

Aquatic Plants for Naturalisation.

Water Plants for Naturalization.

Nuphar advena.
Nymphæa odorata.
Calla palustris.
Pontederia cordata.
Aponogeton distachyon.
Orontium aquaticum.

Nuphar advena.
Nymphæa odorata.
Calla palustris.
Pontederia cordata.
Aponogeton distachyon.
Orontium aquaticum.

Hardy Bulbs for Naturalisation.

Durable Bulbs for Naturalization.

Allium Moly.
    ”    fragrans.
    ”    neapolitanum.
    ”    ciliatum.
Brodiæa congesta.
Bulbocodium vernum.
Camassia esculenta.
Crinum capense.
Crocus, in great var.
Colchicum, in var.
Cyclamen, in var.
Erythronium Dens–canis.
Fritillaria, in var.
Gladiolus communis.
Hyacinthus amethystinus.
Iris, in great var.
Leucojum, in var.
Lilium, in var.
Merendera Bulbocodium.
Muscari, in var.
Narcissus, in great var.
Ornithogalum, in var.
Scilla, in var.
Snowdrops, in var.
Sparaxis pulcherrima.
Sternbergia lutea.
Trichonema ramiflorum.
Triteleia uniflora.
Tulipa, in var.

Allium Moly.
    ”    fragrans.
    ”    neapolitanum.
    ”    ciliatum.
Brodiæa congesta.
Bulbocodium vernum.
Camassia esculenta.
Crinum capense.
Crocus, in great variety.
Colchicum, in variety.
Cyclamen, in variety.
Erythronium Dens–canis.
Fritillaria, in variety.
Gladiolus communis.
Hyacinthus amethystinus.
Iris, in great variety.
Leucojum, in variety.
Lilium, in variety.
Merendera Bulbocodium.
Muscari, in variety.
Narcissus, in great variety.
Ornithogalum, in variety.
Scilla, in variety.
Snowdrops, in variety.
Sparaxis pulcherrima.
Sternbergia lutea.
Trichonema ramiflorum.
Triteleia uniflora.
Tulipa, in variety.

List of Plants for Naturalisation in Lawns and other Grassy Places not frequently mown.

List of Plants for Naturalization in Lawns and Other Grassy Areas That Are Not Mown Often.

This must of necessity be a limited list—being confined to subjects that will grow and flower early in the season, and not form tufts or foliage large enough to much injure the turf.

This list has to be limited—it's restricted to plants that will grow and bloom early in the season and won't create clumps or foliage large enough to significantly damage the grass.

Bulbocodium vernum.
Colchicum, in var.
Cyclamen hederæfolium.
Snowdrops, all.
Leucojum vernum.
Scilla bifolia.
    ”    alba.
    ”    sibirica.
    ”    italica.
    ”    amœna.
Anemone apennina.
      ”    ranunculoides.
      ”    blanda.
      ”    trifolia.
Antennaria dioica rosea.
Anthyllis montana.
Dianthus deltoides.
Erodium romanum.
Fumaria bulbosa.
Helichrysum arenarium.
Iris reticulata.
Linum alpinum.
Narcissus minor.
        ”    bicolor.
        ”    Bulbocodium.
        ”    juncifolius, and many others.
Sternbergia lutea.
Hyacinthus amethystinus.
Merendera Bulbocodium.
Muscari, in var.
Trichonema ramiflorum.

Bulbocodium vernum.
Colchicum, in variety.
Cyclamen hederaefolium.
Snowdrops, all.
Leucojum vernum.
Scilla bifolia.
    ”    alba.
    ”    sibirica.
    ”    italica.
    ”    amœna.
Anemone apennina.
      ”    ranunculoides.
      ”    blanda.
      ”    trifolia.
Antennaria dioica rosea.
Anthyllis montana.
Dianthus deltoides.
Erodium romanum.
Fumaria bulbosa.
Helichrysum arenarium.
Iris reticulata.
Linum alpinum.
Narcissus minor.
        ”    bicolor.
        ”    Bulbocodium.
        ”    juncifolius, and many others.
Sternbergia lutea.
Hyacinthus amethystinus.
Merendera Bulbocodium.
Muscari, in variety.
Trichonema ramiflorum.

Climbing and Twining Plants for Thickets, Copses, Hedgerows, and Trees.

Climbing and Twining Plants for Thickets, Copses, Hedgerows, and Trees.

Ampelopsis bipinnata.
        ”      cordata.
        ”      hederacea.
        ”      tricuspidata.
Apios tuberosa.
Aristolochia Sipho.
          ”      tomentosa.
Asparagus Broussoneti.
Calystegia dahurica.
Cissus orientalis.
Clematis flammula.
      ”    montana.
      ”    Viticella, and others.
Hablitzia tamnoides.
Jasminum nudiflorum.
      ”    officinale.
Lathyrus grandiflorus.
      ”    latifolius.
      ”    rotundifolius.
      ”    tuberosus and others.
Lonicera Caprifolium.
      ”    confusa.
      ”    flava.
      ”    japonica.
      ”    Periclymenum.
Menispermum canadense.
          ”      virginicum.
Periploca græca.
Roses, single, in great var.
Smilax, hardy kinds.
Tamus communis.
Tropæolum pentaphyllum.
        ”    speciosum.
Vitis, various.
Wistaria frutescens.
      ”    sinensis.

Ampelopsis bipinnata.
        ”      cordata.
        ”      hederacea.
        ”      tricuspidata.
Apios tuberosa.
Aristolochia Sipho.
          ”      tomentosa.
Asparagus Broussoneti.
Calystegia dahurica.
Cissus orientalis.
Clematis flammula.
      ”    montana.
      ”    Viticella, and others.
Hablitzia tamnoides.
Jasminum nudiflorum.
      ”    officinale.
Lathyrus grandiflorus.
      ”    latifolius.
      ”    rotundifolius.
      ”    tuberosus and others.
Lonicera Caprifolium.
      ”    confusa.
      ”    flava.
      ”    japonica.
      ”    Periclymenum.
Menispermum canadense.
          ”      virginicum.
Periploca græca.
Roses, single, in great variety.
Smilax, hardy types.
Tamus communis.
Tropæolum pentaphyllum.
        ”    speciosum.
Vitis, various.
Wistaria frutescens.
      ”    sinensis.

These selections are only proposed as aids to those dealing with special positions. The most valuable selection and best guide to the material for the beginner will be found in Chapter XIV., on the principal types of Hardy Exotic Plants for the wild garden.

These suggestions are just meant to help those handling specific situations. The most useful selection and best resource for beginners can be found in Chapter XIV., which covers the main types of Hardy Exotic Plants for the wild garden.

RABBITS AND WOODS.

This sad subject has been kept for the last, as the only disagreeable one in connection with the wild garden. All I have to say of it is, there should be no rabbits in the wild garden; but the following suggestions may prove useful.

This sad topic has been saved for last, as the only unpleasant one related to the wild garden. All I can say about it is that there shouldn't be any rabbits in the wild garden; however, the following suggestions might be helpful.

The subject should be presented in a practical light to landowners and preservers of game, and if it can be shown that the preservation, or rather toleration, of rabbits on an estate is a dead loss both to the proprietor and his tenants, probably more active measures would be taken for their extermination. It is incalculable the injury they do to young trees alone; indeed, where they prevail there is no chance of getting up cover except at an extravagant cost. Hares are less destructive, if they damage trees at all; and it is said by experienced gamekeepers that they never thrive so well where rabbits abound. And as regards pheasants, they drive them away by eating down the evergreen cover so necessary to their existence in the way of shelter in winter. Pheasants will not remain in a wood where there is not shelter of this kind; and nothing are they more partial to than the Holly, which ought to abound in every wood, but which the rabbits destroy first. Here are two sorts of game—hares and pheasants—which many can never have enough of, and the existence of which is directly interfered with by the rabbits; they should be encouraged at the expense of the latter—not to speak of the expense incurred year after year making up losses in plantation, and the expense of wire–netting and labour, etc., in protecting the trees. The extermination of rabbits in this country is not such a difficult matter as might be imagined. When it was determined here a few years since to reduce their numbers to a minimum on the farm lands and woods, it did not require more than a couple of years to do so by shooting and ferreting during the season; and they are now principally confined to one part of the estate—an extensive tract of waste land not of much use for any other purpose. I feel pretty certain that a few active poachers would undertake to clear an estate of its rabbits in a marvellously short time, and would be glad to pay a handsome consideration for the privilege of doing so. In whatever degree rabbits contribute to our food supply—and it is not much—they certainly destroy a great quantity of our corn crops, and are no profit to gentlemen or game preservers, and there is therefore no excuse for their existence.

The topic should be approached practically for landowners and those who manage game. If it's demonstrated that allowing rabbits to stay on a property is a financial loss for both the owner and tenants, then stronger actions might be taken to eliminate them. The damage they cause to young trees is significant; indeed, where rabbits are numerous, establishing cover becomes prohibitively expensive. Hares are less harmful, if they harm trees at all; experienced gamekeepers claim that they don’t thrive well in areas where rabbits are plentiful. When it comes to pheasants, rabbits chase them away by munching on the evergreen cover that’s vital for their winter shelter. Pheasants won’t stick around in woods lacking this type of shelter, and they particularly favor Holly, which should be abundant in every wood but is usually the first to be eaten by rabbits. Here are two kinds of game—hares and pheasants—that many people desire, and their presence is directly threatened by rabbits; their population should be reduced for the benefit of the former. Not to mention the ongoing costs incurred from losses in planting, along with the expenses related to wire-netting and labor to protect the trees. Eliminating rabbits in this country isn’t as complicated as one might think. A few years ago, when it was decided to reduce their numbers significantly on farms and in woods, it took less than two years to accomplish this through shooting and ferreting during hunting season. They are now mostly confined to one area of the estate—a large stretch of wasteland that isn’t particularly useful for anything else. I’m quite sure that a few motivated poachers could clear an estate of its rabbits in a remarkably short time and would gladly pay well for the chance to do so. Regardless of how much rabbits add to our food supply—and it's not much—they definitely destroy a significant amount of our grain crops, providing no benefit to landowners or game managers, so there’s really no justification for their presence.

Hungry rabbits, like hungry dogs or starving men, will eat almost[174] anything that can be masticated and swallowed. Rabbits, as a rule, prefer to nibble over a pasture that contains short, sweet, wholesome grass, and a proportion of clover, dandelion, and daisies, but in and about woods where rabbits are numerous, the grass, from being closely and constantly eaten off, gradually disappears, and at the approach of winter is succeeded by moss, a very cold, watery, and innutritious substitute; then rabbits are driven to seek food from other sources than grass, and the bark of small trees, the leaves, stalks, and bark of shrubs, and the protruding roots of forest trees, are eaten almost indiscriminately. Amongst evergreen shrubs, rhododendrons and box are generally avoided, but I have known newly–planted hybrid rhododendrons to be partly eaten by rabbits. The elder is distasteful, and American azaleas are avoided. I have frequently seen Yew trees barked; mahonias are devoured in these woods as soon as planted; and periwinkle, which is named amongst rabbit–proof plants, is generally eaten to the ground in severe weather. Some of the bulbs and flowering plants named by your correspondent may well escape in winter, because they are not seen above ground, and where they grow, other more agreeable herbage appears, so their immunity consists in being inaccessible in a hungry time. Where rabbits are permitted, the fact that they require food daily, like other creatures, should be recognised. In the absence of wholesome food, they will eat simply what they can get. A certain portion of grass land should be retained for them and managed accordingly; a few acres might be wired round, or, to be more explicit, surrounded with wire–netting, to the exclusion of rabbits, until the approach of wintry weather, when it could be thrown open for them. If this cannot be done, and frosty weather sets in, when the mischief to shrubs is consummated, trimmings of quick hedges should be scattered about, and an allowance of turnips, carrots, or mangold wurzel made and doled out daily in bad weather. In my experience rabbits prefer newly planted trees and shrubs to those established. I have even had the fronds of newly–planted Athyrium Filix–fœmina eaten, while other ferns have been untouched. There is one hint I may give your rabbit–preserving readers: certain breeds of wild rabbits are much more prone to bark trees than others. The barking of trees is an acquired propensity more common to north–country rabbits than others. I should advise the destruction of those rabbits whose propensity for shrubs is very marked, and try warren or common rabbits from the south of England; but the best advice I can give is to have no rabbits at all.—J. S.

Hungry rabbits, like hungry dogs or starving people, will eat almost[174] anything they can chew and swallow. Usually, rabbits prefer to munch on a pasture with short, sweet, healthy grass, along with some clover, dandelion, and daisies. However, in areas where rabbits are plentiful, the grass gets eaten down so continuously that it slowly disappears, and as winter approaches, it gets replaced by moss, which is cold, watery, and lacks nutrition. At that point, rabbits have to find food from other sources besides grass, and they will eat the bark of small trees, leaves, stems, and bark of shrubs, and the exposed roots of forest trees almost without discrimination. Among evergreen shrubs, rhododendrons and box plants are usually avoided, but I’ve seen newly-planted hybrid rhododendrons partially eaten by rabbits. Elder is not appealing, and American azaleas are also avoided. I've often seen yew trees barked; mahonias are consumed in these woods as soon as they are planted; and periwinkle, which is considered rabbit-proof, is usually eaten down to the ground during harsh weather. Some of the bulbs and flowering plants mentioned by your correspondent might survive in winter because they aren’t visible above ground, and where they grow, other more appealing plants might be available, so their safety comes from being unreachable during lean times. Where rabbits are allowed, it’s important to recognize that they need food daily, just like other animals. Without nutritious food, they will eat whatever they can find. A certain amount of grassland should be kept for them and managed properly; a few acres could be fenced off, or, to be clearer, enclosed with wire netting to keep rabbits out until winter when it could be opened for them. If that’s not possible and cold weather sets in when the damage to shrubs is done, then trimmings from quick hedges should be scattered around, and some turnips, carrots, or mangold wurzel should be provided and given out daily during bad weather. From my experience, rabbits tend to prefer newly planted trees and shrubs over established ones. I've even had the fronds of newly-planted Athyrium Filix-fœmina eaten, while other ferns were left alone. One tip I can offer your readers who want to protect their plants: certain breeds of wild rabbits are much more likely to bark trees than others. This barking habit is more commonly seen in rabbits from the north than in others. I would recommend getting rid of rabbits that show a strong preference for shrubs and trying warren or common rabbits from southern England; but the best advice I can give is to have no rabbits at all.—J. S.

A correspondent who has given much attention to the subject (Salmoniceps) gives the following, as among the most rabbit–proof of plants:—“Most of the Lily family are,” he says, “rejected by them, including Daffodils, Tulips, Snowdrops, Snowflakes, Lilies, Day Lilies, Asphodels, and others, and they cannot be too extensively planted; but even in that tribe the Crocus (which is also named in the article in question) is greedily devoured. I gave—in an early number of your paper (see pp. 9 and 88, Vol. I.)—a list of all rabbit–proof trees, shrubs, and flowers then known to me, and I regret that, though keeping a watch upon the subject, I have not been able to add a single species to the list given below.”

A correspondent who has focused a lot on the topic (Salmoniceps) shares the following as some of the most rabbit-proof plants: “Most of the Lily family are,” he says, “rejected by them, including Daffodils, Tulips, Snowdrops, Snowflakes, Lilies, Day Lilies, Asphodels, and others, which can't be planted too widely; but even in that group, the Crocus (which is also mentioned in the article in question) is eagerly eaten. I provided—in an earlier issue of your paper (see pp. 9 and 88, Vol. I.)—a list of all the rabbit-proof trees, shrubs, and flowers I knew at the time, and I regret to say that, despite keeping an eye on the topic, I haven’t been able to add a single species to the list below.”

Androsæmum officinale.
Anemone coronaria.
      ”    japonica.
Arabis.
Artemesia Abrotanum.
Asphodelus albus.
Aubrietia.
Berberis Darwinii.
Canterbury Bells.
Cineraria maritima.
Columbine.
Common and Irish Yews.
Deutzia scabra.
Dog’s–tooth Violet.
Elder.
Euonymus.
Fuchsia.
Hibiscus syriacus.
Hollies.
Honesty (Lunaria).
Iris.
Ligustrum vulgare.
Lilies (common orange and white kinds).
Lily of the Valley.
Lycium barbarum.
Mahonia Aquifolium.
Monkshood.
Muscari.
Narcissus.
Ornithogalum.
Pansies.
Periwinkle (large and small).
Phlox, in var.
Poppy.
Primrose, in var.
Roses.
Ruscus aculeatus.
    ”    racemosus.
Scilla.
Solomon’s Seal.
Lonicera, in var.
Stachys lanata.
Symphoricarpus.
            ”        racemosus.
Syringa persica.
      ”    vulgaris.
Tritoma.
Violets.
Weigela rosea.
Winter Aconite.
Woodruff.
Yucca gloriosa.

Androsæmum officinale.
Anemone coronaria.
      ”    japonica.
Arabis.
Artemesia Abrotanum.
Asphodelus albus.
Aubrietia.
Berberis Darwinii.
Canterbury Bells.
Cineraria maritima.
Columbine.
Common and Irish Yews.
Deutzia scabra.
Dog’s-tooth Violet.
Elder.
Euonymus.
Fuchsia.
Hibiscus syriacus.
Hollies.
Honesty (Lunaria).
Iris.
Ligustrum vulgare.
Lilies (common orange and white kinds).
Lily of the Valley.
Lycium barbarum.
Mahonia Aquifolium.
Monkshood.
Muscari.
Narcissus.
Ornithogalum.
Pansies.
Periwinkle (large and small).
Phlox, in var.
Poppy.
Primrose, in var.
Roses.
Ruscus aculeatus.
    ”    racemosus.
Scilla.
Solomon’s Seal.
Lonicera, in var.
Stachys lanata.
Symphoricarpus.
            ”        racemosus.
Syringa persica.
      ”    vulgaris.
Tritoma.
Violets.
Weigela rosea.
Winter Aconite.
Woodruff.
Yucca gloriosa.

Lists, however, and considerations of the above sort, are a poor substitute for what is really required in such cases—the extermination of pests which are destructive alike to field crops, to trees and shrubs, and to plants, and which offer at best a very scanty return for the havoc they commit.

Lists and similar considerations are a weak substitute for what’s truly needed in these situations—the elimination of pests that damage crops, trees, shrubs, and plants, and which, at best, provide very little return for the destruction they cause.


FINIS.

FINIS.


INDEX.

Acanthus, 120

Acanthus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Accident, a beautiful, 51

Accident, a stunning, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Achillea, 122

Achillea, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Achilleas, large white, 53

Achilleas, big white, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Aconite, the Winter, 139

Aconite, the Winter, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Aconitum, 121

Aconitum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Adam’s Needle, 162

Adam's Needle, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Ajuga, 122

Ajuga, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Alkanet, 125

Alkanet, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Allium, the White, 123

Allium, the White, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Allium, the Yellow, naturalised, 42

Allium, the Yellow, naturalized, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Alstrœmeria, 123

Alstroemeria, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Althæa, 123, 150

Althæa, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__

American Cowslip, 136

American Cowslip, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

American Swamp Lily, 64

American Swamp Lily, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

American White Wood Lily, 59

American White Wood Lily, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Ampelopsis, 130

Ampelopsis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Anchusa, 125

Anchusa, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Anemone, 124

Anemone, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Anemone, Blue Apennine, 17

Anemone, Blue Apennine, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Anemone fulgens, 23

Anemone fulgens, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Anemones in the Riviera, 25

Anemones on the Riviera, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Anthericum, 125

Anthericum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Antirrhinum, 125

Antirrhinum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Apennine Anemone, 7

Apennine Anemone, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Aquilegia, 125

Aquilegia, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Arabis, 126

Arabis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Arenaria, 126

Arenaria, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Arenaria balearica on a wall, 88

Arenaria balearica on a wall, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Aristolochia Sipho, 129

Aristolochia Sipho, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Arum, 127

Arum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Arundo Donax, 155

Arundo Donax, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Asclepias, 128

Asclepias, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Asphodel, 127

Asphodel, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Aster, 128

Aster, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Astragalus, 129

Astragalus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Astrantia, 129

Astrantia, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Atragene Alpina, 30

Atragene Alpina, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Aubrietia, 129

Aubrietia, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bamboo, 130

Bamboo, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bambusa, 130

Bamboo, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Baptisia, 130

Baptisia, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Barren–wort, 138

Barrenwort, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bear’s Breech, 120

Bear's Breech, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bedding System, the, 2

Bedding System, the, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bee Balm, 150

Bee Balm, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bell–flower, 130

Bellflower, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bindweed, 134

Bindweed, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bindweed, a South European, 135

Bindweed, a Southern European, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bindweed, large white, 39

Bindweed, big white, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bitter Vetch, 151

Bitter Vetch, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Blood–root, 15

Bloodroot, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bloodwort, 157

Bloodwort, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Blue Apennine Anemone, 17

Blue Apennine Anemone, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Blue Rock Cress, 129

Blue Rock Cress, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bog Garden, 77

Bog Garden, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bog Gardens, 67

Bog Gardens, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bohemian Comfrey, 11

Boho Comfrey, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Borage, 12

Borage, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Borage family, 9

Borage family, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Borago, 130

Borago, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Borago cretica, 13

Borago cretica, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bramble, 155

Bramble, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bramble, the Nootka, 40

Bramble, the Nootka, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Brookside Gardens, 67

Brookside Gardens, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bugle, 122

Bugle, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bulbs, hardy, for naturalisation, 172

Hardy bulbs for naturalization, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bulbs and Tubers in grass, 15

Bulbs and tubers in grass, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Calla palustris, 135

Calla palustris, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Callirhoe, 150

Callirhoe, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Calystegia, 134

Calystegia, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Campanula, 130

Campanula, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Candytuft, Evergreen, 145

Candytuft, Evergreen, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cape Pond Weed, 75

Cape Pond Weed, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Catch–fly, 157

Catchfly, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Caucasian Comfrey, 9, 10

Caucasian Comfrey, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__

Celastrus, 46

Celastrus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Centaurea, 131

Centaurea, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Centranthus ruber, 131

Centranthus ruber, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cephalaria, 157

Cephalaria, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cephalaria procera, 33

Cephalaria procera, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cerastium, 131

Cerastium, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cheddar Pink, 91

Cheddar Pink, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cheddar Pink, Saxifrage, etc., on wall, 89

Cheddar Pink, Saxifrage, etc., on wall, 89

Cheiranthus, 131

Cheiranthus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Christmas Rose, 143

Christmas Rose, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Clematis, 133

Clematis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Clematis erecta, 133

Clematis erecta, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Clematis flammula, 21

Clematis flammula, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Clematis, large white, on Yew tree, 44

Clematis, big white flowers, on Yew tree, 44

Clematis, the mountain, 22

Clematis, the mountain, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Clematis, the White–flowered European, 133

Clematis, the white-flowered European, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Climbers, 166

Climbers, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Climbing plants crucified, 45

Climbing plants destroyed, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Climbing plants for Wild Garden, 8

Climbing plants for Wild Garden, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Climbing Rose isolated on grass, 87

Climbing Rose alone on the grass, 87

Colchicum, 132

Colchicum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Colony of Myrrhis odorata, 51

Colony of Myrrhis odorata, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Colony of Narcissus in shrubbery, 57

Colony of Narcissus in the bushes, 57

Colony of Summer Snowflake, 119

Colony of Summer Snowflake, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Columbine, 125

Columbine, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Columbine, the Siberian, 126

Columbine, the Siberian, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Columbines in Grass, v

Columbines in Grass, vol.

Comfrey, 157

Comfrey, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Comfreys, 11

Comfreys, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Common Lupine, 146

Common Lupine, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Copse, Lily of the Valley in a, 63

Copse, Lily of the Valley in a, 63

Copses, 36

Copses, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Coral–wort, 135

Coralwort, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cornus canadensis, 133

Cornus canadensis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Coronilla varia, 135

Coronilla varia, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cotton Thistle, 151

Cotton Thistle, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cow Parsnip, the Giant, 35

Cow Parsnip, the Giant, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cow Parsnips, 143

Cow Parsnips, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Crambe, 134

Crambe, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Crane’s Bill, wild, 94

Crane's Bill, wildflower, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Creeping Forget–me–not, 151

Creeping Forget-Me-Not, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cretan Borage, 13

Cretan Borage, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Crocus, 132

Crocus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Crocuses, 17

Crocuses, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Crocuses in turf, 20

Crocuses in grass, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Culture in Woods, 64

Culture in the Woods, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cyclamen, 133

Cyclamen, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cyclamen, Ivy–leaved, 5

Cyclamen, Ivy-leaved, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cyclamens in the Wild Garden, 134

Cyclamens in the Wild Garden, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cyperus longus, 73

Cyperus longus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cypripedium spectabile, 133

Cypripedium spectabile, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Daffodil, 151

Daffodil, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Day Lily, 143

Day Lily, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Day Lily by margin of water, 76

Day Lily by the edge of the water, 76

Delphinium, 136

Delphinium, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Dentaria, 135

Dentaria, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Dianthus, 137

Dianthus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Dielytra, 136

Dielytra, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Digitalis, 137

Digitalis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Digging shrubbery borders, 51

Digging plant borders, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Ditches, 36

Ditches, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Dodecatheon, 136

Dodecatheon, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Dog’s–tooth Violet, 139

Dogtooth Violet, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Doronicum, 136

Doronicum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Drapery for trees and bushes, 43

Drapery for trees and shrubs, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Dug and mutilated shrubbery in St. James’s Park, 111

Dug up and damaged bushes in St. James’s Park, 111

Dwarf Cornel, 133

Dwarf Cornel, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Echinops, 138

Echinops, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Ellacombe, Rev. H. N., on the Rose, 81

Ellacombe, Rev. H. N., on the Rose, 81

Enothera, 151

Enothera, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Epigæa repens, 138

Epigaea repens, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Epimedium, 138

Epimedium, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Eranthis hyemalis, 139

Eranthis hyemalis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Erica, 138

Erica, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Eryngium, 138

Eryngium, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Erythronium, 139

Erythronium, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Eupatorium, 137

Eupatorium, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Evening Primrose, 151

Evening Primrose, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Evening Primrose at night, 4

Evening Primrose at night, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Evergreen Candytuft, 145

Evergreen Candytuft, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Everlasting Pea, 148

Everlasting Pea, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Exotic and British Wild Flowers in the Wild Garden, 17

Exotic and British Wild Flowers in the Wild Garden, 17

Ferns, 141

Ferns, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Ferula, 140

Ferula, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Flame Flower, 159

Flame Flower, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Fleur de Lis, 145

Fleur de Lis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Flowers, Spring and early Summer, 166

Flowers, Spring and early Summer, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Forget–me–not, 149

Forget-me-not, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Forget–me–not, Creeping, 151

Forget-me-not, Creeping, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Foxglove, 137

Foxglove, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Fritillaria, 140

Fritillaria, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Fumaria, 136

Fumaria, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Fumitory, 136

Fumitory, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Fumitory, the Yellow, on wall, 91

Fumitory, the yellow, on wall, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Funkia, 139

Funkia, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Funkia Sieboldi, group of, 140

Funkia Sieboldi, group of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Galanthus, 143

Galanthus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Galega, 142

Galega, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Gardens of the future, 58

Future gardens, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Gentian, 142

Gentian, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Geranium, 141

Geranium, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Geranium, a hardy, 141

Geranium, a tough, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Geraniums in Grass, v

Geraniums in Grass, vol.

Giant Comfrey, 13

Giant Comfrey, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Giant Cow Parsnip, 35

Giant Cow Parsnip, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Giant Fennel, 140

Giant Fennel, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Giant Scabious, 33, 135

Giant Scabious, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__

Giant Sea–kale, 134

Giant Sea Kale, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Globe Flower, 159

Globe Flower, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Globe Flower order, 21

Globe Flower order, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Globe Flowers, 25

Globe Flowers, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Globe Flowers, group of, 21

Globe Flowers, group of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Globe Thistle, 138

Globe Thistle, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Goat’s Rue, 142

Goat's Rue, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Golden Rod, 156

Goldenrod, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Grape Hyacinth, 148

Grape Hyacinth, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Grape Hyacinths, 17

Grape Hyacinths, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Grass, double Crimson Pæonies in, 30

Double crimson peonies in grass, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Grass, Star of Bethlehem in, 15

Star of Bethlehem grass, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Grasses for naturalisation, 171

Naturalization grasses, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Great Siberian vegetation, type of, 35

Siberian vegetation type, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Green Hellebore in the Wild Garden, 26

Green Hellebore in the Wild Garden, 26

Gromwells, 11

Gromwells, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Gypsophila, 142

Gypsophila, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Hardy flowers by brook–side, 69

Tough flowers by the brook, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Heath, 138

Heath, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Hedgerows, 36

Hedgerows, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Helianthemum, 144

Helianthemum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Helianthus, 144

Helianthus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Hellebore in Wild Garden, 26

Hellebore in Wild Garden, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Helleborus, 143

Helleborus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Hemerocallis, 143

Hemerocallis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Hemp Agrimony, 137

Hemp Agrimony, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Hepatica angulosa, 24

Hepatica angulosa, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Hepatica, common, 25

Hepatica, common, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Heracleum, 143

Heracleum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Herb Paris and Solomon’s Seal in copse by streamlet, 67

Herb Paris and Solomon’s Seal in the woods by the little stream, 67

Hesperis, 145

Hesperis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Honesty, 146

Honesty, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Honeysuckle, 147

Honeysuckle, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Hop, the, 45

Hop, the, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Houseleek, 158

Houseleek, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Hovey, Mr., on tree drapery, 47

Hovey, Mr., on tree decor, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Hypericum, 145

Hypericum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Iberis, 145

Iberis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Illustrations, list of, xi

List of illustrations, xi

Indian Cress, showy, 160

Indian Cress, vibrant, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Iris, 145

Iris, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Japan Anemone in the Wild Garden, 23

Japan Anemone in the Wild Garden, 23

Japan Knotweed, 152

Japan Knotweed, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Japan Sedum in Wild Garden, 92

Japan Sedum in Wild Garden, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Kitaibelia, 150

Kitaibelia, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Knap–weed, 131

Knapweed, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Knautia, 157

Knautia, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Landwort, 126

Landwort, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Large Achilleas, 53

Large Achilleas, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Large Bindweed, 39

Large Bindweed, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Large–flowered Clematis, 101

Large-flowered Clematis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Large–leafed Saxifrage, 97

Large-leafed Saxifrage, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Larkspurs, perennial, 27

Larkspurs, perennial flowers, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lathyrus, 147

Lathyrus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lavender, Sea, 156

Lavender, Ocean, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Leopard’s Bane, 136

Leopard's Bane, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Leucojum, 147

Leucojum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Liane in the north, 49

Liane up north, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lilies through carpet of White Arabis, 55

Lilies through a carpet of White Arabis, 55

Lilium, 146

Lily, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lily, 146

Lily, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lily, American Swamp, 64

Lily, American Wetlands, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lily, American White Wood, 59

Lily, American White Wood, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lily of the Valley in a copse, 63

Lily of the Valley in a small wooded area, 63

Lily, Wood, 159

Lily, Wood, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lily, Water, 151

Lily, Water, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lily, White Wood, 37

Lily, White Wood, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lithospermum prostratum, 147

Lithospermum prostratum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Longleat, Wild Garden at, 61

Longleat, Wild Garden at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lonicera, 147

Lonicera, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lords and Ladies, 127

Lords and Ladies, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lunaria, 146

Lunaria, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lungwort, 154

Lungwort, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lungworts, 11

Lungworts, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lupine, common, 146

Lupine, common, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lychnis, 147

Lychnis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Mallow, 150

Mallow, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Malope, 150

Malope, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Malva, 150

Malva, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Marsh Calla, 135

Marsh Calla, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Marsh Mallow, 123

Marshmallow, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Marsh Marigold and Iris in early spring, 78

Marsh Marigold and Iris in early spring, 78

Masterwort, 129

Masterwort, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Matthiola, 149

Matthiola, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

May–flower, 138

Mayflower, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Meadow Rue, 158

Meadow Rue, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Meadow Rue in Wild Garden, 1

Meadow Rue in Wild Garden, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Meadow Rues, 31

Meadow Rues, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Meadow Saffron, foliage of, 132

Meadow Saffron, its leaves, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Menispermum, 47

Menispermum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Menziesia, 138

Menziesia, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Mertensia virginica, 12

Mertensia virginica, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Milk Vetch, 129

Milk Vetch, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Mimulus, 148

Mimulus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Mocassin Flower, 133

Moccasin Flower, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Molopospermum, 149

Molopospermum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Monarda, 150

Monarda, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Monkey–flower, 148

Monkey flower, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Monkshood, 121

Monkshood, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Moonseed, 47

Moonseed, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Mountain Clematis, 22

Mountain Clematis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Mouse–ear, 131

Mouse ear, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Mowing Grass, 17

Lawn Mowing, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Mulgedium Plumieri, 6, 150

Mulgedium Plumieri, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__

Mullein, a tall, 161

Mullein, a tall, plant

Muscari, 148

Muscari, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Myosotis, 149

Myosotis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Myrrh, 60

Myrrh, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Myrrhis odorata, a colony of, 51

Myrrhis odorata, a colony of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Narcissus, 151

Narcissus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Narcissus, colony of, in shrubbery, 57

Narcissus colony in the shrubbery, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

New England, woods of, 58

New England woods, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Night effect of Evening Primrose, 4

Evening Primrose Night Effect, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Nootka Bramble, 40

Nootka Bramble, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Nuphar, 151

Nuphar, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Nursery for London Parks, 118

London Parks Nursery, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Nymphæa, 151

Nymphaea, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Œnothera Lamarkiana, 4

Œnothera Lamarkiana, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Omphalodes, 151

Omphalodes, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Omphalodes verna, 10

Omphalodes verna, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Onopordon, 151

Onopordon, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Orchard Wild Garden, 65

Orchard Wild Garden, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Ornithogalum, 151

Ornithogalum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Orobus, 151

Orobus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Oxalis, 152

Oxalis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Ox–eye Daisy, the tall, 154

Ox–eye Daisy, the tall, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Pæonies in grass, 30

Peonies in grass, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Pæony, 153

Peony, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Papaver, in var., 153

Papaver, in variety, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Partridge Berry, 80

Partridge Berry, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Pea, 147

Pea, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Pea, Everlasting, 148

Pea, Everlasting, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Perennial Larkspurs, 27

Perennial Larkspurs, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Perennial Larkspurs naturalised in shrubbbery, 28

Perennial Larkspurs have taken root in the shrubs, 28

Periwinkle, 161

Periwinkle, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Phlomis, 153

Phlomis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Physostegia, 154

Physostegia, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Phytolacca decandra, 154

Phytolacca decandra, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Pink, 137

Pink, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Plants, Annual and Biennial, for naturalisation, 171

Plants, annual and biennial, for naturalization, 171

Plants, Aquatic, 171

Aquatic Plants, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Plants chiefly fitted for the Wild Garden, 32

Plants that are best suited for the Wild Garden, 32

Plants, climbing and twining, for copses, thickets, hedgerows, and trees, 172

Plants that climb and twist around, for small woods, dense bushes, hedgerows, and trees, 172

Plants for bare banks, 164

Plants for bare banks, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Plants for calcareous or chalky soil, 169

Plants for calcareous or chalky soil, 169

Plants, hardy, with fine foliage, 165

Plants, resilient, with delicate leaves, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Plants for hedge–banks and like places, 165

Plants for hedges and similar spots, 165

Plants for moist rich soils, 169

Plants for wet, nutrient-rich soils, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Plants for naturalisation beneath specimen trees on lawns, 167

Plants for naturalization under specimen trees on lawns, 167

Plants for naturalisation in lawns and other grassy places, 172

Plants for naturalization in lawns and other grassy areas, 172

Plants for peat–soil, 169

Plants for peat soil, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Plants for the Wild Garden, 120

Plants for the Wild Garden, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Plants of vigorous habit for the Wild Garden, 164

Plants with a strong growth pattern for the Wild Garden, 164

Plants, selections of, for old walls, ruins, or rocky slopes, 170

Plants, choices for old walls, ruins, or rocky slopes, 170

Plants, selections of hardy, 163

Hardy plant selections, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Plants suited for dry and gravelly soil, 170

Plants suited for dry and rocky soil, 170

Polygonum cuspidatum, 152

Polygonum cuspidatum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Poppy, 153

Poppy, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Primrose, Evening, 151

Primrose, Evening, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Pulmonaria, 154

Pulmonaria, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Pyrethrum serotinum, 154

Pyrethrum serotinum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Rabbits and Woods, 173

Rabbits and Woods, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Reasons for the system, 4

Reasons for the system, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Red Valerian, 131

Red Valerian, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Reed, the Great, 155

Reed, the Great, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Results, 92

Results, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Rheum, 155

Rheum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Rhubarb, 155

Rhubarb, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Riviera, Anemones in the, 25

Anemones in the Riviera, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Rocket, 145

Rocket, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Rosa, 155

Rosa, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Rose, 155

Rose, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Roses for the Wild Garden, hedgerows, fences, and groups, 81

Roses for the Wild Garden, hedgerows, fences, and clusters, 81

Roses in the Riviera, 85

Roses in the Côte d'Azur, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Rosy Coronilla, 135

Rosy Coronilla, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Rubus, 155

Rubus, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Rudbeckia, 144

Rudbeckia, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Rush, flowering, 73

Rush, blooming, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Sanguinaria canadensis, 157

Sanguinaria canadensis, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Saxifraga, 158

Saxifraga, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Saxifrage, 158

Saxifrage, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Scabious, the Giant, 33

Giant Scabious, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Scabious, 157

Scabious, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Scilla, 157

Scilla, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Scillas, 17

Scillas, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Sea Holly, 138

Sea Holly, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Sea–kale, the Giant, 134

Sea kale, the Giant, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Sea Lavender, 156

Sea Lavender, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Sedum, 157

Sedum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Sempervivum, 158

Sempervivum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Shady Lanes, 36

Shady Lanes, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Shrubbery borders, digging of, 51

Shrubbery borders, digging, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Shrubbery, margin of, 118

Shrub border, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Shrubbery, Perennial Larkspurs naturalised in, 28

Shrubs, established perennial larkspurs in, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Sida, 150

Sida, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Silene, 157

Silene, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Silkweed, 128

Silkweed, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Silphium, 144

Silphium, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Snakes–head, 140

Snakeshead, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Snapdragon, 125

Snapdragon, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Snowdrop, 17

Snowdrop, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Snowdrop–Anemone, colony of, in shrubbery not dug, 115

Snowdrop–Anemone, colony of, in undisturbed shrubbery, 115

Snowdrops, 143

Snowdrops, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Snowdrops, Wild, by streamlet, 142

Wild Snowdrops by the stream __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Snowflake, 17, 147

Snowflake, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__

Soils, 169, 170

Soils, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__

Solidago, 156

Solidago, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Solomon’s Seal, 18

Solomon's Seal, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Sowbread, 133

Sowbread, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Speedwell, 162

Speedwell, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Spiderwort, 159

Spiderwort, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Spiræa, 156

Spirea, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Spring Flowers in the Wild Garden, 7

Spring Flowers in the Wild Garden, 7

Squill, 157

Squill, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Star of Bethlehem, 151

Star of Bethlehem, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Star of Bethlehem in grass, 15

Star of Bethlehem in grass, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Starwort, 128

Starwort, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Statice, 156

Statice, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

St. Bruno’s Lily, 125

St. Bruno’s Lily, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

St. John’s Wort, 145

St. John's Wort, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Stock, 149

Stock, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Stonecrop, 157

Stonecrop, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Sunflower, Perennial, 144

Sunflower, Perennial, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Sun Rose on limestone rocks, 144

Sun rose on limestone cliffs, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Sun Roses, 104

Sun Roses, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Symphytum, 157

Symphytum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Telekia cordifolia, 159

Telekia cordifolia, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Tew Park, 98

Tew Park, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Thalictrum, 158

Thalictrum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Thickets, 36

Thickets, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Tiger Lilies in Wild Garden at Great Tew, 98

Tiger Lilies in Wild Garden at Great Tew, 98

Tradescantia virginica, 159

Tradescantia virginica, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Trailers, 166

Trailers, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Trees and Bushes, drapery for, 43

Trees and bushes, drapery for __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Tree drapery, Mr. Hovey on, 47

Tree drapery, Mr. Hovey on, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Trillium, 159

Trillium, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Tritoma, 159

Tritoma, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Tritoma, group of, 160

Tritoma group, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Trollius, 21, 25, 159

Trollius, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__

Tropæolum speciosum, 160

Tropaeolum speciosum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Tulip, 159

Tulip, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Tunica, 142

Tunica, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Turf, Crocuses in, 20

Crocuses on the lawn, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Turk’s Cap Lily, 19

Turk’s Cap Lily, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Valley in Somersetshire, 70

Valley in Somerset, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Verbascum, 161

Verbascum, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Veronica, 162

Veronica, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Vetch, Bitter, 151

Bitter Vetch, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Vinca, 161

Vinca, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Vines, Wild, 48

Wild Vines, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Viola, 162

Viola, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Violet, 162

Violet, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Virgin’s Bower, 21, 133

Virgin's Bower, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__

Virginian Creepers, 130

Virginian Creepers, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Virginian Poke, 154

Virginian Poke, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wall Cress, 126

Wall Cress, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wallflower, 131

Wallflower, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Water Dock, Great, 72

Water Dock, Awesome, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Water Lily, 151

Water Lily, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Water Lily, Yellow, 71

Yellow Water Lily, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Water Plants, 70

Water Plants, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Waterside Gardens, 67

Waterside Gardens, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

White Arabis, Lilies coming up through carpet of, 55

White Arabis, Lilies coming up through a carpet of, 55

White Clematis on Yew tree, 44

White Clematis on Yew tree, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

White Climbing Rose over old Catalpa tree, 84

White climbing rose over the old catalpa tree, 84

White Lily in Wild Garden, 146

White Lily in Wild Garden, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wild Garden in the orchard, 65

Wild Garden in the orchard, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wild Garden, Japan Anemone in the, 23

Wild Garden, Japan Anemone in the, 23

Wild Garden, plants chiefly fitted for, 32

Wild Garden, plants primarily suitable for, 32

Wild Garden, plants for, 120

Wild Garden, plants for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wild Garden in America, 106

Wild Garden in America, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wild gardening on walls or ruins, 88

Wild gardening on walls or ruins, 88

Wild Garden, where to obtain plants, 120

Wild Garden, where to get plants, 120

Wild Orchard, 65

Wild Orchard, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wild Rose on a Pollard Ash, 83

Wild Rose on a Pollard Ash, 83

Wild Vines, 48

Wild Vines, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Willow Herb, 7

Willow Herb, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wilson, Mr. G. F., and wood–culture, 64

Wilson, Mr. G. F., and wood culture, 64

Windflower, 124

Windflower, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Winter Aconite, 15

Winter Aconite, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Winter Heliotrope, 7

Winter Heliotrope, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wistaria, 45

Wisteria, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wood and herbaceous Meadow–sweets, 105

Wood and herbaceous Meadow-sweets, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wood–culture, 64

Wood culture, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wood–culture at Bodorgan, 65

Wood culture at Bodorgan, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wood Lily, 159

Wood Lily, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wood Plants, American, 150

Wood Plants, American, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Woodruff and Ivy, 108

Woodruff and Ivy, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Woods and woodland drives, 51

Woods and forest drives, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Woods of New England, 58

New England Woods, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wood Sorrel, 152

Wood Sorrel, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wye Valley, 90

Wye Valley, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Yarrow, 122

Yarrow, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Yellow Allium naturalised, 42

Yellow Allium naturalized, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Yucca, 162

Yucca, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__


Printed by R. & R. Clark, Edinburgh.

Printed by R. & R. Clark, Edinburgh.


FOOTNOTES:

[1] See illustration on p. 51.

[1] See illustration on page __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__.

[2] A letter written by request, in the Rural New Yorker, July 1876.

[2] A letter written upon request, in the Rural New Yorker, July 1876.


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