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a. This technical manual2 is published to inform and guide the personnel responsible for operating, maintaining, and making minor repairs to this equipment.

b. In addition to a description of the Harley-Davidson motorcycle, this manual includes the technical information needed to identify, use, and care for the equipment. The manual is divided into two parts. Part One, sections I through VI, provides vehicle operating instructions. Part Two, sections VII through XXV, offers vehicle maintenance instructions for the personnel responsible for maintenance work in their area.

c. In all instances where the type of repair, modifications, or adjustments exceed the capabilities or resources of the unit, the responsible ordnance service should be notified so that qualified personnel with the right tools and equipment can be provided, or appropriate instructions can be given.

a. This technical manual, along with TM 9–1879, takes the place of and replaces the following Quartermaster Corps publications:

(1) TM 10–1175—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, solo, Harley-Davidson (Model 42-WLA), September 11, 1941.

(2) TM 10–1177—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, solo, Harley-Davidson (Models 1940–41–42), September 11, 1941.

(3) TM 10–1331—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, chain drive Harley-Davidson (Model 42 WLA, solo).

(4) TM 10–1359—Instruction folder (45–A) motorcycles, solo, Harley-Davidson (Model 1941 WLA 45), November 25, 1941.

(5) TM 10–1361—Instruction folder (45–B) motorcycle, solo, Harley-Davidson (Model 1941 WLA 45), November 25, 1941.

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a. This 2-cylinder solo motorcycle has a V-type, air-cooled gasoline engine that runs on standard 4-stroke, 4-cycle principles. Air-cooled engines depend on the airflow over the cylinder and head cooling fins, as well as oil circulation to get rid of excess heat. Therefore, motorcycle engines should never be run for more than 1 minute when the motorcycle isn't moving.

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a. The controls are specific to the motorcycle. The rider needs to be fully aware of the location and use of all control devices before trying to operate the vehicle.

b. Gasoline Valve (figs. 5 and 6). The gasoline valve is located in the left tank, towards the front. To close the valve, turn it to the right until it's snug. Turning it to the left opens the valve. The valve is in its normal operating position10 when turned to the left, with the valve head facing down. Lifting the valve head releases an emergency supply of fuel (3 quarts).

c. Throttle. The throttle is controlled by the grip on the right handlebar. Turning the grip inward opens the throttle, while turning it outward closes it.

d. Spark. The spark is controlled by the left handlebar grip. Turning the grip inward increases the spark, while turning it outward decreases the spark.

e. Clutch (fig. 7). The clutch is controlled by a left foot pedal (rocker-type) that connects to a steel cable, which activates the clutch release lever. The pedal is positioned on the left side of the motorcycle above the footboard. Pressing the pedal forward and down (with your toe) engages the clutch. Pressing it backward and down (with your heel) disengages the clutch. The foot pedal is equipped with a friction device to hold it in either the engaged or disengaged position.

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f. Service Brake (Rear Wheel). The foot pedal is located on the right side of the motorcycle at the front end of the footboard.

g. Auxiliary Brake (Front Wheel). The auxiliary brake is operated by a hand lever located on the left handlebar. It is used alongside the service brake, as an emergency brake, or to hold the vehicle while starting the engine on an incline. CAUTION: Apply the brake lightly and cautiously on wet and slippery roads.

h. Gear Shifter (fig. 8). The shifter lever is located on the left tank, at the front, and moves within a guide. The shifter lever guide has notches for a clear indication of the gears, and each position is labeled from front to back: “1”—low gear; “N”—neutral; “2”—second gear; “3”—direct high gear.

i. Steering Damper. A steering damper is an adjustable friction device that dampens the turning action of the forks, stabilizes the front wheel, and prevents wobbling on rough terrain or at high speeds. It is located on top of the steering head in the center of the handlebars. Move the handle to the right to apply the desired friction.

j. Foot Starter Crank (fig. 1). The foot starter crank is located on the right side of the motorcycle. The gear shift lever must be in the neutral position, and the clutch pedal must be fully engaged before using the foot starter crank. The starter crank is usually in an upward position. Straddle the motorcycle, place your right foot on the starter crank, and shift your body weight downwards with force to start the engine.

k. Ignition and Light Switch. Earlier models have a switch lock, while later models do not. The switch is off when it's in the straightforward position. The first position to the right is for engine ignition only.13 The second position to the right is for ignition and blackout lights. To use the vehicle service lights, press the button to turn the switch to the third position on the right.

l. Instrument Panel Signal Lights. Instead of an ammeter and oil pressure gauge, signal lights show when the generator is charging and when the engine oil pressure is normal.

(1) The green light is on the left side of the instrument panel. When the engine is running and the light is off, it means the generator is charging.

(2) The red light is on the right side of the instrument panel. When the engine is running and the light is off, it means the engine oil is circulating.

m. Carburetor Choke (fig. 9). The choke lever is fully primed when it's all the way up and in the normal running position when it's all the way down.

a. Before starting the engine, complete the Before-operation Service described in paragraph 15. Take extra care during the starting and warm-up period to prevent unnecessary engine wear.

b. The rider needs to develop good habits for starting the motorcycle engine and learn to do it in the quickest, easiest, and most reliable way. The following tips will be useful for both beginners and experienced riders:

(1) Get on the motorcycle and grab the handlebars securely.

(2) Keep the side stand (jiffy stand) extended to support the vehicle while using the foot starter crank with your right foot.

(3) Starting the engine will be easier with the use of the front wheel, hand-operated brake, to keep the vehicle from rolling or moving during starting attempts. This is particularly useful if the vehicle is parked on a slope or on a soft, uneven surface.

c. The procedure described below is a preliminary step for starting a cold, warm, or hot engine:

(1) Put the gear shifter lever in the “N” (neutral) position (fig. 8).

(2) Make sure the gasoline shut-off valve is open (fig. 5).

Engage the clutch (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__).

(4) The spark control (left) grip needs to be turned inward to its fully advanced position, or close to it.

(5) The foot starter crank may need to travel halfway down before the engine starts. Make sure to use a strong, full starter stroke. A powerful kick, using a full swing (not a quick jab) of your right leg and hip, is the right way to start the engine.

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a. The process for starting cold, warm, or hot motorcycle engines varies. Therefore, the following instructions are provided in paragraph 6 c to cover the correct procedure for all three situations.

b. Starting Cold Engine. When the vehicle hasn't been used for a while and the engine is cold, follow the step-by-step process for the easiest starting.

(1) Move the carburetor choke lever all the way up (closed position).

(2) Open the throttle fully by rotating the right grip inward as far as it will go.

(3) Prime the cylinders by turning the foot starter crank one or two times.

(4) Set the carburetor choke lever to a position between ¼ and ½ closed for starting in mild weather: ¾ closed (or leave it fully choked) for starting in extremely cold weather. CAUTION: Only in extremely cold weather might the engine start best with the choke fully closed, and even then, it must be moved from that position immediately after the engine starts.

(5) Adjust the throttle (right) grip to a slightly open position.

(6) Turn the ignition switch on to the first right position.

(7) Start the engine with strong kicks on the foot starter crank.

(8) When the engine starts, adjust the throttle to a moderate idling speed to warm it up, or until you're ready to start driving. Don't rev the engine unnecessarily.

(9) After the engine warms up and misfires because of a too-rich mixture, slowly move the choke lever downward. Once the engine has completely warmed up, move the choke lever to the fully open (downward) position.

c. Starting Warm Engine. The following instructions apply to the engine when it’s halfway between hot and cold. With the engine in this condition, carburetor choking needs to be handled carefully.

(1) Raise the choke lever to the first upward position from normal (¼ closed).

(2) Turn the throttle (right) grip to the fully closed (outward) position.

(3) Use the foot starter crank for one or two strokes.

(4) Set the throttle grip to between ¼ and ¹⁄₃ open position.

Turn on ignition switch.

(6) Start the engine by giving the foot starter crank a strong kick.

(7) Soon after the engine starts, the choke lever must be moved to the fully open (downward) position.

(8) Turn the throttle grip to control the engine's idling speed.

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d. Starting Hot Engine. If the engine has been turned off for just a short time and is close to its normal operating temperature, you don’t need to use the carburetor choke lever. For some engines, depending on the condition and adjustment of the carburetor, hot starting is easier and more reliable if you operate the foot starter crank once before turning on the ignition switch.

(1) Fully open the throttle grip by turning it all the way outward.

Turn on ignition switch.

(3) Use the foot starter crank to start the engine.

(4) If your hot engine doesn’t start easily after turning the foot starter crank two or three times, it’s usually because it’s flooded. The right thing to do is to open the throttle all the way to let in more air; close the throttle quickly once the engine starts. CAUTION: Once the engine has warmed up to its normal operating temperature, don’t let it idle for more than 1 minute at a time.

e. Starting Engine with Dead Battery. See paragraph 12.

f. Behavior of Instrument Panel Signal Lights. The function of the generator (green) signal light relies on the cut-out relay's actions; the engine oil pressure (red) signal light depends on the oil feed pump's actions. Therefore, the rider needs to fully understand how both signal lights operate to assess the condition of the generator-battery circuit and the pressure in the engine's oil circulating system.

(1) When the ignition light switch is turned to the first (right) position to prepare for starting the engine, both the green and red indicator lights should turn on. CAUTION: When the switch is turned on right after the engine has been primed by cranking, the red (oil pressure) indicator light may not turn on immediately, but will light up after a few seconds due to oil pressure building up from cranking, and this is more likely to be noticed in cold weather.

(2) With the engine started and running at a moderate idle speed, both signal lights should turn off. CAUTION: If the oil pressure (red) signal light does not turn off at speeds above idle, the conditions must be reported to the unit mechanic.

(3) At a slow idle or under about 20 miles per hour (in high gear), the generator (green) signal light will usually flash on and off because the generator's voltage output is very low and unstable at that speed. CAUTION: If the generator (green) signal light does not turn off at speeds above approximately 20 miles per hour, the generator is either not charging at all, or its current output is below normal, and it should be checked immediately.

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a. Turn off the engine by switching the ignition and light switch to the off (straight-ahead) position to avoid draining the battery through the spark coil's primary circuit.

a. Starting on Level Ground. Once the engine is warmed up and has been checked for proper functioning, the vehicle (with the operator in the riding position) is set in motion like this:

(1) Shift your weight to your right leg.

(2) Fold back the side stand (kickstand).

(3) Release the clutch by pressing down on the clutch pedal with the heel of your left foot.

(4) Move the gear shifter lever into the “1” (low) gear position.

(5) Gradually engage the clutch by pressing down the clutch pedal with the toe of your left foot.

(6) When the clutch starts to grab, open the throttle enough to keep the engine speed.

(7) Gradually speed up to between 12 and 15 miles per hour in low gear.

Close throttle fast.

Disengage the clutch.

(10) Move from the “N” (neutral) position to “2” (second) gear.

(11) Release the clutch and speed up to around 25 miles per hour.

Quickly close the throttle.

Disengage the clutch.

(14) Shift into “3” (high) gear.

(15) Reengage the clutch and speed up to your desired speed.

b. Starting on Uneven or Soft Ground.

(1) If you're on a slope or in loose, heavy soil, you'll need more engine power to start the vehicle without stalling.

(2) It might be necessary to prevent the vehicle from rolling by applying pressure to the front brake hand lever. Brake pressure is released once the vehicle starts moving forward.

(3) Open the throttle and engage the clutch at the same time to provide the power needed for starting, without revving the engine unnecessarily.

(4) Motorcycle starts should be done without putting too much power down, which would cause the rear wheel to spin unnecessarily.

a. Practicing will help a rider determine the appropriate speed at which to shift from a lower to a higher17 gear, and the engine should never be allowed to strain excessively when shifting from higher to lower would enhance performance.

(1) The operator must not look down at the gear shifter while changing gears but should keep their eyes on the road ahead. Do not ride the clutch. The operator's foot should only rest on the clutch pedal when operating it. When shifting gears, fully disengage the clutch to avoid damaging the gears and having trouble shifting. CAUTION: Many transmissions are ruined because the clutch isn't fully disengaged when shifting gears.

b. Braking. The rear wheel service brake must be in a condition where a medium-hard application will cause the rear wheel to lock. The application of the service brake should be gradual, using just enough force to achieve the desired result.

(1) The auxiliary front wheel brake, when used along with the service brake, should be applied carefully, especially on wet, muddy, or slippery roads.

(2) After going through water, the brakes should be lightly engaged, and the vehicle should be driven a short distance until enough heat is produced to dry the brakes.

c. Avoid Low Gear Operation. Always drive the vehicle in the highest gear possible, based on the tactical situation, necessary speed, required power, and type and condition of the road surface, to avoid overheating the engine.

d. High Speed Tips. Only experienced riders should engage in high-speed riding. A motorcycle that's used for long distances at high speeds requires more careful attention to prevent serious engine overheating and potential damage. For better motorcycle performance, consider the following suggestions:

(1) Make it a habit to quickly close the throttle for a moment when running at high speed. This brings extra lubrication to the piston and cylinder and helps cool the engine.

(2) In cool weather, run the engine slowly until it's properly warmed up to prevent damage to the pistons, rings, cylinders, and other parts before the oil gets warm enough to flow freely.

(3) If you use a handlebar windshield and leg shields, the engine is more likely to overheat during prolonged high-speed riding. Keep an eye on this.

(4) Adjust the “steering damper” for optimal motorcycle control based on your riding speed, the conditions, and the type of road.

a. Stopping Vehicle. The rider will make a “restart” easier and quicker if they follow these instructions when stopping the vehicle:

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Cut throttle.

Disengage the clutch.

(3) Use the brake(s) to slow down the vehicle without causing the rear tire to skid.

(4) Just before coming to a complete stop, shift into “N” (neutral) position and engage the clutch. CAUTION: If you need to restart right away, shift into “1” (low) gear and keep the clutch pedal in the disengaged position. (The rider will be sitting on the motorcycle with the engine running.)

(5) Keep applying the brakes until you come to a complete stop.

(6) Once the vehicle slows down to the point where you can't balance it by steering anymore, put your left foot on the ground to stay balanced until you can take your right foot off the brake pedal. CAUTION: Don't let the engine run for more than 1 minute.

(7) Turn off the ignition switch to stop the engine.

b. Parking a Vehicle.

(1) Lean the motorcycle on the side (jiffy) stand.

(2) Shift into “1” (low) gear.

(3) Engage the clutch so the vehicle won't roll.

(4) Turn off the gasoline supply by turning the valve (to the right) until it's tight against its seat.

a. In emergencies when the engine can't be started with the foot starter crank, it can be started by towing the motorcycle.

(1) Set the gear shift lever to the “2” (second) gear position.

Disengage the clutch.

Choke the carburetor.

Turn on the ignition switch.

(5) Once the towed motorcycle reaches a speed of 10 to 15 miles per hour, pull in the clutch and keep going with the procedure until the engine starts.

b. Engine Starting with Dead Battery. You can start an engine with a dead battery by using a fully charged battery or by towing, as described above. If you need to tow a vehicle with a dead battery to start the engine, follow these steps:

(1) Disconnect the negative battery wire from the ground on the right side of the motorcycle.

(2) Tow a motorcycle to start the engine.

(3) Once the engine is started, reconnect the battery ground wire to the frame to avoid damaging the electrical system.

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a. A new motorcycle engine or a recently overhauled engine needs to be properly "broken in" during the first 1,000 to 1,200 miles of use. Not doing this could lead to damage that might take the engine out of commission in a short amount of time.

b. After the first 250 miles, check the front and rear drive chains to ensure they're getting enough oil for proper lubrication. If needed, have the chain oilers adjusted by the unit mechanic. The drive chains should also be checked for the correct adjustment and attended to by the unit mechanic as necessary.

c. After the first 500 miles, drain the oil tank and refill it with fresh oil. Check the front and rear chains (step b above). From then on, follow the instructions in the Maintenance Operation section.

d. After a new motorcycle has been ridden for 500 to 1,000 miles, it needs to be thoroughly inspected and any loose screws and nuts tightened. Special attention should be paid to the engine and transmission mounting bolts and nuts, as well as the rear wheel mounting socket screws.

e. The following guidelines should be followed when breaking in a new engine or a recently overhauled engine:

(1) Don't go over 30 miles per hour for the first 100 miles.

(2) Don’t go over 35 miles per hour for the next 200 miles.

(3) Do not go over 40 miles per hour for the next 400 miles.

(4) Don't go over 50 miles per hour for the next 500 miles.

(5) Try to avoid using low gears during the break-in period whenever you can.

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a. To ensure mechanical efficiency, it's essential to systematically inspect the vehicle at regular intervals every day it’s in use and weekly, so defects can be identified and fixed before they lead to serious damage or breakdowns. Certain scheduled maintenance services will be carried out at these specific times. The services outlined in this section are those performed by the driver or crew before operation, during operation, while at a stop, after operation, and weekly.

b. Driver preventive maintenance services are listed on the back of the “Driver’s Trip Ticket and Preventive Maintenance Service Record,” W.D. Form No. 48, for all vehicle types and models. Specific items for certain vehicles that aren't on W.D. Form No. 48 are addressed in the manual procedures related to them. Certain items on the form that don’t apply to the vehicle in question are removed from the procedures as described in the manual. Every organization must thoroughly train each driver in carrying out the maintenance procedures outlined in the manuals, regardless of whether they are specifically mentioned on W.D. Form No. 48.

c. The items listed on W.D. Form No. 48 that apply to this vehicle are elaborated in this manual to provide specific steps for carrying out the inspections and services. These services are organized to make inspections easier and save the driver's time, and they may not be in the same numerical order as shown on W.D. Form No. 48. However, the item numbers are the same as those on that form.

d. The overall inspection of each item also includes any supporting component or connection, and generally involves checking to see if the item is in good shape, properly assembled, secure, or overly worn.

(1) The check for "good condition" typically involves a visual inspection to see if the unit is damaged beyond safe or usable limits. The phrase "good condition" is further explained as follows: not bent or twisted, not scratched or burned,21 not broken or cracked, not exposed or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or cut.

(2) Inspecting a unit to ensure it is “correctly assembled” typically involves a visual check from the outside to confirm it’s in its standard assembled position within the vehicle.

(3) Checking a unit to see if it is “secure” typically involves looking at it from the outside, feeling it by hand, or using a pry bar to check for any looseness. This inspection should cover any brackets, lock washers, lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used in the assembly.

(4) “Excessively worn” will be understood to mean worn close to, or beyond, usable limits, and likely to lead to a failure if not replaced before the next scheduled inspection.

e. Any defects or unsatisfactory operating issues that cannot be fixed by the first level of support must be reported as soon as possible to the designated person in charge.

a. This inspection schedule is mainly a way to ensure that the vehicle hasn't been tampered with or sabotaged since the After-operation Service was completed. Different combat conditions might have made the vehicle unsafe to operate, so it's the driver's responsibility to assess whether the vehicle is ready for any assigned mission. This check won't be completely skipped, even in critical tactical situations.

b. Procedures. Before-operation Service involves checking the items listed below following the described procedure and fixing or reporting any issues found. Once the service is done, the results should be reported quickly to the appropriate authority.

(1) Item 1, Tampering and Damage. Check for any damage to the vehicle overall, its parts or equipment, that might have been caused by tampering, sabotage, collisions, falling debris, or shell fire since the vehicle was parked. Look for loose or damaged parts, loose fuel or oil lines, or any disconnected connections.

(2) Item 3, Fuel & Oil. Check tanks for fuel and oil levels, and top them off as needed. If there’s a significant change in levels since the After-operation Service was done, it should be looked into and reported to the designated authority.

(3) Item 4, Accessories & Drives. Check all accessories like the carburetor, air cleaner, generator, and cut-out relay for loose connections, loose mountings, or leaks. Look at the rear chain (final drive) for free up-and-down movement (slack) in the middle between sprockets. The total up-and-down movement shouldn’t be more than 1 inch or less than ½ inch. Make sure the rear chain is adequately lubricated.

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(4) Item 6, General Leaks. Check the vehicle and the area underneath it for signs of fuel or oil leaks. Typically, it's normal to see a few drops of waste oil from the chains dripping from the skid plate.

(5) Item 11, Glass. Wipe down glass on instruments; clean and adjust the rearview mirror; check the glass for any cracks or damage.

(6) Item 12, Lamps. If the tactical situation allows, check if the blackout and service lights work properly in their respective switch positions and turn off when switched off. Also, make sure the lights are secure and that the lenses are clean and not damaged. Check if both filaments of the service headlight function when the dimmer switch on the left handlebar is adjusted to its respective positions.

(7) Item 13: Wheels, Axle Nuts, and Screws. Check the rear wheel mounting socket screws, front and rear axle nuts, and front fork rocker stud nuts to make sure they’re tight. Look at the rear chain adjusting screws to ensure they’re securely locked. Inspect the spokes for good condition and tightness.

(8) Item 14, Tires. Check the tires for cuts or foreign objects stuck in the treads or sidewalls. If you have time, also check the air pressure, which should be 18 pounds for the front tires and 20 pounds for the rear tires (when the tires are cold). Make sure the valve caps are present and securely attached.

(9) Item 15, Springs & Suspension. Check the front fork springs for secure attachment and proper condition. Press down on the back of the saddle to test the full action of the saddle post spring.

(10) Item 16, Steering and Handlebar Controls. Check the adjustment of the steering head bearing by pulling up hard on the handlebar grips and seeing if there's any noticeable play in the bearing. Operate the steering damper lever and make sure the damper is compressed before the lever gets to the right-side position, and is fully released when the lever is in the left-side position. Test the handlebar grip controls to ensure they move freely; also verify that the throttle opens and closes completely, and that the timer can be fully advanced and retarded.

(11) Item 17: Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Carrier, Safety Guards, and Stands. Check these items for good condition and secure mounting.

(12) Item 21, Tools & Equipment. Check tools and equipment for availability, functionality, and proper storage. (See tool list in par. 21.)

(13) Item 7, Engine Startup. Start the engine, paying attention to any issues with hard starting or the foot starter crank not working properly. Set the throttle to a moderate idle speed. Listen for any unusual noises. Monitor instrument readings and engine performance, like misfiring. CAUTION: Do not let the engine idle for more than 1 minute while the vehicle is stationary.

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(14) Item 8, Choke. While the engine is idling, adjust the choke as needed to avoid excessive choking and dilution of the engine oil.

(15) Item 9, Tools. When the switch is turned on and the engine is idling at a moderate speed, both the red light (showing low oil pressure) and the green light (showing generator activity) should be off. At lower operating speeds, the generator light may flicker. CAUTION: Do not run the engine with the red light on (indicating no oil pressure).

(16) Item 10, Horn. If the tactical situation allows, test the horn.

(17) Item 22, Engine Function. The engine should idle smoothly. Accelerate and decelerate while listening for any unusual sounds that could suggest compression or exhaust leaks, or that engine parts or accessories might be worn, damaged, loose, or not properly lubricated. Pay attention to any unusual smoke coming from the exhaust.

(18) Item 23, Driver's Permit, Accident Report Form No. 26, and Vehicle Manual. These items must be in the vehicle and securely stored.

(19) Item 25, In-operation Service. The During-operation Service should begin right after the vehicle is in motion, similar to a road test.

a. While the vehicle is moving, listen for any sounds like rattles, knocks, squeaks, or hums that might indicate a problem. Stay alert for any smell of overheated parts or systems such as the generator, brakes, or clutch, as well as fuel vapors from leaks in the fuel system, exhaust fumes, or other trouble signs. Anytime you use the brakes, shift gears, or turn the vehicle, treat it as a test and pay attention to any unsatisfactory or unusual behavior. Keep an eye on the instruments at all times. Quickly notice any unusual readings that could signal potential issues in the system related to that instrument.

b. Procedures. During-operation service involves monitoring the items listed below according to the procedures outlined for each item, and looking into any signs of serious issues. Take note of minor deficiencies to be fixed or reported at the earliest chance, typically during the next scheduled stop.

(1) Item 27, Foot and Hand Brakes. The foot brake should work smoothly and effectively, with a reserve pedal travel of 1 inch. The normal free play before operation is 1 inch. Check the hand brake lever for free play, which should be ¼ of the total handle travel. Test for ease and smoothness of operation.

(2) Item 28, Clutch. Check the clutch for disengagement at about ½ pedal travel. The clutch shouldn’t chatter, squeal, or slip.

(3) Item 29, Transmission. Gears should shift smoothly, run quietly, and not slip out of gear while in operation. If the transmission24 slips out of gear in any position, it means the shifter control needs to be adjusted.

(4) Item 31, Engine & Controls. Stay vigilant for any issues in engine performance like a drop in power, misfiring, strange noises, stalling, signs of overheating, or unusual exhaust smoke. Pay attention to whether the engine responds well to the controls, if the controls seem properly adjusted, and if they’re tight enough.

(5) Item 32, Tools. Check instruments for signs of normal operation of the systems they relate to.

(a) Speedometer and Odometer. The speedometer should show the vehicle's speed smoothly, without excessive noise or fluctuation. The odometer should track both trip and total mileage.

(b) Oil Pressure Signal Light. The red light should be off while the vehicle is running. If the light turns on, stop the vehicle and check for oil pressure issues.

(c) Generator Signal Light. The green light should turn off when the speed exceeds 20 miles per hour. If the green light is on, it means the battery is discharging.

(6) Item 33, Steering Wheel. Adjust the steering damper to the preferred steering friction. Check the vehicle's steering for any wandering, shimmying, pulling to one side, or wheel hopping.

(7) Item 34, Workout Gear. Pay attention for any strange sounds coming from the wheels, axles, or suspension parts that could suggest looseness or damage.

(8) Item 35, Frame. Pay attention to any sounds that could suggest loose accessories, controls, attachments, or equipment.

a. At-halt Service can be seen as basic maintenance procedures and should be carried out in all tactical situations, even if more comprehensive maintenance services need to be reduced or skipped entirely.

b. Procedures. At-halt Service involves checking for any issues encountered during operation, inspecting the items listed below according to the procedures that follow, and fixing any problems found. Any unresolved issues should be reported quickly to the designated authority.

(1) Item 38, Fuel & Oil. Add fuel and oil as needed to get to the next refueling point. CAUTION: The left tank is for fuel; the right tank is for oil. Do not swap the filler caps, as only the fuel tank cap is vented.

(2) Item 39, Temperatures. Check the wheel hubs and brake drums by touch for overheating.

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(3) Item 40, Vents. Ensure that the crankcase breather outlet and rear chain oil feed pipe are unobstructed. Confirm that the grease drains in the front and rear brake side covers are clear and clean.

(4) Item 42, Springs and Suspensions. Check for broken springs in the fork.

(5) Item 43, Steering Wheel. Look into any issues that arise while riding.

(6) Item 44: Wheels and Mounting Screws. Check the wheels for any broken, bent, or loose spokes. Additionally, look for any loose axle nuts or rear wheel mounting screws. Make sure the wheel rims are in good condition.

(7) Item 45, Tires. Check tires for low pressure or damage. Clear any debris from the tire treads and look for cuts.

(8) Item 46, General Leaks. Check the vehicle for signs of fuel, oil, or battery leaks.

(9) Item 47, Accessories and Chain. Check accessories for loose connections, loose mountings, or damage. Inspect the rear drive chain for broken rollers, broken link side plates, and broken or missing connecting link spring clips. Make sure the chain is adequately lubricated.

(10) Item 48, Air Purifier. The air cleaner must be secure, with air passages in good condition and clean. When operating in very dusty or sandy conditions, check the air cleaner often and service it as needed.

(11) Item 49: Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Carrier, Safety Guards, and Stands. Check these items for any looseness or damage.

(12) Item 52, Look and Glass. Clean the windshield, rearview mirror, and light lenses; check for good condition, secure attachment, and any broken glass.

a. After-operation Service is really important because this is when the driver checks their vehicle for any issues that might have come up and fixes the ones they’re allowed to. They should quickly report the findings of their inspection to the designated authority. If this process is done thoroughly, the vehicle will be ready to go at a moment’s notice. The Before-operation Service, with a few exceptions, is mainly needed to confirm that the vehicle is in the same condition it was in when the After-operation Service was completed. The After-operation Service should never be completely skipped, even in extreme tactical situations, but it can be scaled down to the essential services outlined for the At-halt Service, if necessary.

b. Procedures. When carrying out the After-operation Service, the driver needs to keep in mind any irregularities noticed during26 the day in the Before-operation, During-operation, and At-halt Services. The After-operation Service involves checking and servicing the following items. Items in the After-operation Services marked with an asterisk (*) need extra Weekly services, with the procedures for those outlined in step (b) of each relevant item.

(1) Item 54, Fuel & Oil. Fill the fuel and oil tanks; fill the oil tank within 1 inch of the top; make sure to put oil in the right tank and fuel in the left tank; do not switch the caps. CAUTION: If you are operating in very dusty conditions, drain the engine oil tank and refill it with fresh oil as often as needed to prevent excessive contamination of the oil.

(2) Item 55, Engine Performance. Check that the engine idles smoothly without stalling. Speed up and slow down the engine, paying attention to any signs of misfiring or backfiring, unusual sounds, or vibrations that could mean worn parts, loose fittings, wrong fuel mixture, or ignition issues. Look into any unsatisfactory engine performance issues noticed during operation. Be able to identify noise from a loose primary (front) drive chain. If there’s more than ½ inch of total up-and-down movement, it can create excessive noise that sounds like engine knock. Remove the inspection cover to check the chain.

(3) Item 57, Horn. If the tactical situation allows, test the horn.

(4) Item 59, Lights. If the tactical situation allows, check if the blackout and service lights work when the switch is in the correct positions and turn off when switched off. Also, make sure the lights are secure and that the lenses are clean and unbroken. Check if both filaments of the service headlight function when the dimmer switch on the left handlebar is adjusted to its respective positions.

(5) Item 56, Instruments. Before shutting off the engine, check the instruments to make sure the indicator lights are still off. Shut off the engine. After 30 seconds, turn on the switch to confirm that the oil pressure and generator signal lights turn on. CAUTION: Make sure to turn off the ignition switch after this test.

(6) Item 58, Glass. Clean the rearview mirror, windshield, instrument glass, and lights. Check for secure mounting and any breaks.

(7) Item 62, *Battery.

(a) Check the battery carrier for good condition and secure installation. Verify the electrolyte level (should be ⁵⁄₁₆ inch above the plates). Look for any signs of electrolyte leakage, which indicates the battery may be overfilled, not sealed properly, or damaged. CAUTION: Only add water if necessary.

(b) Weekly. Wipe off dirt from the top of the battery, take off the battery caps, and fill the electrolyte to ⁵⁄₁₆ inch above the plates using clean, drinkable water. Clean the terminals or posts if they're corroded; make sure felt washers are27 on the terminals and properly oiled; tighten the terminal bolts carefully if they're loose. Clean and paint the battery carrier if it's corroded.

(8) Item 63, *Accessories & Chain.

(a) Check the carburetor, air filter, generator, and cut-out relay for loose connections, mounts, or damage. Inspect the rear drive chain for broken rollers, broken side plates, and broken or missing connecting link spring clips. Look at the rear chain (final drive) for free up-and-down movement (slack) halfway between the sprockets; the maximum allowable deflection is 1 inch, and the minimum is ½ inch.

(b) Weekly. Tighten any loose accessory connections. Clean excess dirt off the rear chain. Check the front chain for adjustments and make sure it’s properly lubricated.

(9) Item 65, *Air Purifier.

(a) Check the oil cup for too much dirt and the correct oil level. If the air cleaner is really dirty, clean the elements in a dry-cleaning solvent and refill the cup with fresh oil. Dip the elements in the oil from the oil cup, then replace the elements and attach the oil cup right away. If the gaskets are damaged, replace them. In very dusty or sandy conditions, you might need to clean and refill the air cleaner more than once a day. Inspect the hose for leaks.

(b) Weekly. Check the air cleaner for the right oil level and any excessively dirty oil. Clean and service the air cleaner, and tighten the mounting and hose clamps. NOTE: The early-style, round air cleaner doesn't have removable filter elements. You need to remove the entire cleaner to wash the element.

(10) Item 66, *Fuel Filter (Gasoline Strainer).

(a) Clean the cap and screen of the fuel filter.

(b) Weekly. Clean the cap and screen of the fuel filter, take out the carburetor bowl drain plug, and drain off any water and dirt. Make sure to replace the plug, being careful not to cross-thread it.

(11) Item 67, Engine Controls. Check the throttle and spark controls for any damaged wires or disconnected linkages. Look out for any signs of inadequate lubrication.

(12) Item 68, *Tires.

(a) Remove any debris like nails, glass, or stones from the tire treads. Check the tires for unusual tread wear, cuts, or damage; also check if the valve caps are present and securely fastened. Inflate the front tires to 18 psi and the rear tires to 20 psi, making sure the tires are cool.

(b) Weekly. Replace tires that are badly worn or otherwise not usable.

(13) Item 69, *Springs and Suspension.

(a) Check the front fork for broken or sagging springs, loose bolts, studs, and nuts.

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(b) Weekly. Tighten the wheel axle nuts and the rear brake sleeve nut. Also, make sure to securely tighten the rear wheel mounting socket screws.

(14) Item 70, Steering Wheel. Check the steering head to ensure the bearings are properly adjusted. Look over the steering damper to make sure it's correctly adjusted.

(15) Item 72, *Vents.

(a) Ensure that the crankcase breather outlet and the rear chain oil supply pipe are unobstructed. Also, check that the grease drains in the front and rear brake side covers are clear and clean.

(b) Weekly. Clean the crankcase breather outlet, the rear chain oil supply pipe, and the grease drains in the front and rear brake side covers.

(16) Item 73, General Leaks. Check the mechanism and underneath the vehicle for signs of fuel, oil, and grease leaks. Inspect around the brake drums for any evidence of grease in the drums or on the linings. It's normal to expect a few drops of oil to drip from the skid plate.

(17) Item 74, Gear Oil Levels. Check the transmission oil level with the vehicle on a rear stand (not a jiffy stand); refill, if needed, to the level of the filler plug opening with engine oil. CAUTION: Do not use gear oil.

(18) Item 76, Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Rack, Safety Guards, and Stands. Check these items for proper condition and secure mounting.

(19) Item 82, *Tighten.

(a) Check all frame and assembly nuts, bolts, and cap screws for tightness.

(b) Weekly. Tighten all vehicle assembly or mounting nuts. The driver is advised not to mess with or tighten screws or nuts around the circuit breaker, as this could affect the ignition timing.

(20) Item 83, *Lubricate When Needed.

(a) Lubricate all parts that show they need lubrication during inspection: clean all dirt off fittings before applying lubricant. Report any missing fittings.

(b) Weekly. When the vehicle has been driven enough miles to need a scheduled lubrication, follow the Lubrication Guide in the manual and the current lubrication instructions. Avoid using too much lubricant on the wheel bearings, front brake side cover bushing, and the camshafts of both the front and rear brake operating levers.

(21) Item 84, *Clean Engine and Vehicle.

(a) Clean dirt and trash from the vehicle and get rid of any extra grease.

(b) Weekly. Wash the vehicle if you can. If not, wipe it down thoroughly. Avoid rubbing dull paint too much to prevent it from shining. When washing the vehicle in a stream, be careful not to let water or dirt get into the bearings, breather valve, or brakes. CAUTION: It is extremely important29 that high-pressure streams or steam should not be directed at the wheel hubs, brakes, carburetor, air cleaner, or electrical components.

(12) Item 64, *Electrical Wiring.

(a) Check all ignition wiring to ensure it's securely connected, clean, and not damaged.

(b) Weekly. Check all wiring to ensure it’s securely connected and supported, that insulation isn’t cracked or worn, and that loom, shielding, and condensers are in good shape and properly attached. Clean as needed. Carefully tighten any loose connections. Any issues with radio shielding or bonding, aside from cleaning or tightening, should be reported to signal corps personnel.

(23) Item 85, *Tools & Equipment.

(a) Make sure that all tools and equipment assigned to the vehicle are there, in good shape, and stored correctly.

(b) Weekly. Check the tools and equipment assigned to the vehicle against the vehicle stowage list (par. 21) to ensure they are all there. Inspect the tools to make sure they are in good condition and stored properly. Report any missing or defective items to the designated authority.

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a. Lubrication is a crucial part of preventive maintenance, playing a significant role in the functionality of parts and assemblies.

a. General. Lubrication instructions for this equipment are compiled in a Lubrication Guide (fig. 10). This guide outlines the points that need lubrication, the timing for lubrication, and the type of lubricant to use. The intervals listed in the guide are for regular service. For extreme conditions such as high speed, heat, mud, snow, rough roads, dust, etc., change the engine oil and lubricate more often. Additionally, along with the items in the guide, brake components, gear shifters, clutch control linkages, and hinges should be lubricated regularly.

b. Supplies. In the field, it might not be possible to provide a full range of lubricants as recommended by the Lubrication Guide. It will be essential to make the most of what is available, subject to inspection by the designated officer, in consultation with the relevant ordnance personnel.

c. Lubrication Notes. The following notes apply to the Lubrication Guide (fig. 10). All note references in the guide correspond to the steps below with the matching numbers:

(1) Brake Fittings. Be careful when lubricating the brake operating cams and the front brake cover bushing, as too much grease leaking from these bearings can get onto the brake lining and reduce brake efficiency. CAUTION: When using an air-operated grease gun, be sure not to over-lubricate the brake fittings.

(2) Brake lever oil can points. Oil hand lever fittings and "oiler" attached to the cable housing. Apply oil to the front brake control cable at the ends of the control cable housing.

(3) Generator Commutator End Bearing. Hand-pack with general-purpose grease, No. 2, when temperatures are above freezing. When it's below freezing, use lighter grease. You’ll need to remove the generator end cover for this process. Loosen the outer grease retainer of the bearing and swing it aside to access the bearing. If it’s not convenient to grease the bearing at the recommended intervals, at least apply a few drops of engine oil to the hole in the outer grease retainer. Avoid over-lubricating. CAUTION: The generator regulating brush plate must not be moved while31
32 the outer grease retainer of the bearing is loose (par. 92). The generator drive end bearing does not need any maintenance, as it is lubricated by oil circulating through the engine.

(4) Spark and Throttle Control Handles. These grips need to be taken apart. Twice a year, or whenever the grips don’t move smoothly, which shows they need lubrication, take off the grips, clean the parts, apply grease, and put them back together (par. 101).

(5) Air Purifier. Check the oil cup daily for excess dirt and the correct oil level. In very dusty or sandy conditions, you might need to clean and refill the air cleaner more than once a day. Refill the oil cup to the indicated level with engine oil. Drain, clean, and refill the oil cup every 250 miles, depending on how you're using it. Every 1,000 miles (more often if needed), take out the air cleaner filter units, wash them in dry-cleaning solvent, lubricate, and put them back together (par. 76). NOTE: The early round cleaner did not have a removable filter element. You must remove the entire cleaner to wash the element.

(6) Wheel Bearings. When you lubricate the wheel hubs every 500 miles, using 1/8 ounce of grease each time is enough. This is about 15 shots from a standard 1-pound air gun, or four strokes with a 1-pound hand-operated gun. If the vehicle has been driven in water and the wheel hubs were submerged, make sure to apply grease to the hubs right afterwards (or as soon as you can). Avoid putting too much grease on the wheel hub bearings, as excess grease can get into the brake linings and reduce brake efficiency. When using an air-operated grease gun, it’s easy to over-grease the wheel hub bearings.

(7) Steering Head Bearings. Every 50,000 miles, repack the upper and lower bearings, or whenever you need to take off the rigid fork for repairs or replacement (par. 98).

(8) Engine Oil Tank. The oil tank is located on the right side of the motorcycle. The empty tank holds 1 U.S. gallon. Check it daily and add engine oil as needed to refill the tank within 1 inch of the top. The oil level gauge rod (dipstick) is located directly below the tank cap. When the oil level reaches the “REFILL” mark on the gauge rod, you can add 2 U.S. quarts. Drain the oil tank every 1,000 miles and refill it with fresh engine oil. The drain plug is located on the underside of the tank at the front. In extremely dusty conditions or during winter weather, change the oil more frequently.

(a) Winter Caution. Water is a byproduct of combustion in any internal combustion engine. The amount of water vapor produced is about the same as the amount of gasoline burned. Some of this water vapor escapes past the rings into the crankcase. When starting and warming up in cold weather, a significant amount of vapor enters the crankcase but condenses into water before the crankcase gets hot enough to exhaust the vapor through the outside breather. If the engine runs enough to thoroughly warm up the crankcase frequently, most of this water will turn back into vapor and be expelled through the outside breather. However, an engine that is driven moderately, with only short runs occasionally and seldom getting completely warmed up, is likely to accumulate increasing amounts of water in the oil tank. This water can freeze into slush or ice in cold weather, and if it builds up for too long, it may block the oil lines, causing damage to the engine. Additionally, water mixed with oil over time forms a heavy sludge that has a considerable acid content, which is very damaging to bearings and other internal engine parts. In summary, an engine that is only used for short trips during freezing weather needs frequent oil changes and thorough flushing of the tank to remove any accumulated sludge.

(9) Transmission Filler Opening. Check the oil level in the transmission case every 250 miles and add engine oil as needed to bring the level up to the filler opening. If you ride your motorcycle for unusually long distances, check it more often. The motorcycle should be on a rear stand in a straight upright position when checking the oil level or filling the transmission case. Use the same grade of oil as used in the engine, both summer and winter. If you're having trouble shifting gears due to oil thickening in extremely cold weather, thin the oil with a small amount of kerosene or dry-cleaning solvent. Every 1,000 miles, drain and refill the transmission to the level of the transmission filler plug opening with the specified grade of engine oil. The transmission holds ¾ pint of oil. To drain the transmission case, remove the filler plug and lay the motorcycle on its right side. CAUTION: Do not leave the motorcycle on its side for more than two minutes.

Drive Chains.

(a) Front and rear drive chains receive automatic lubrication from engine oil pumps. The chain oilers can be adjusted and might require occasional tweaks to meet the lubrication needs of different operating conditions. Every 1,000 miles (or more frequently if the operating conditions are particularly harsh), check the front primary drive chain to ensure it has enough lubrication (fig. 36).

(b) For every 1,000 miles, the rear drive chain should be lubricated as follows: Remove the chain, wash it thoroughly in dry-cleaning solvent, and hang it up to dry. Next, soak the chain in SAE 10 engine oil for a short time to let the oil soak into all the chain bearings. Drain the chain and wipe off any excess oil. Install the rear chain (par. 63). (This procedure is not necessary for the front chain.) Only an organizational mechanic should readjust the chain oilers (par. 61). CAUTION: Check frequently to ensure that the rear chain oiler supply pipe is clear, not bent, or damaged.

d. Before Applying Lubricant. Always wipe off dirt from the lubrication fittings or plugs to prevent dirt from mixing with the lubricant. Lubricate all chassis points after washing the vehicle or after driving in streams or very muddy or slushy roads. CAUTION: It's really important that high-pressure cleaning streams34 or steam are not directed at the ends of wheel hubs, brake side cover bearings, air cleaner, handlebar grips, or electrical system. Doing this can seriously impact the proper lubrication and functioning of these parts.

e. Oilcan Points. All brake, transmission, and clutch control points that don't have grease fittings should be lubricated with engine oil. The front brake control cable, spark plug, and throttle control wires should be oiled at the ends of their respective housings, especially after washing the vehicle or after driving in wet conditions. Keep battery terminal felt washers soaked with engine oil to prevent corrosion of the connections.

f. Warning Light. The engine oil feed pump's activity is shown by a red warning light on the instrument panel. The rider needs to be fully aware of how this warning light works to assess the condition of the engine oil circulation system (par. 7 f).

35

a. Kits. The tool kit assembly includes the following:

*EXCEPTION: Earlier models equipped with a smaller tool roll and kit contain the items marked with an asterisk.

a. Mounted on Vehicle.

37

38

3a. Replacement Parts.

39

a. The extent of maintenance and repairs done by the crew and other units using the equipment depends on the tools available, the necessary parts on hand, the skills of the mechanics, the time they have, and the tactical situation. All of these factors can change, so there can't be a fixed procedure.

a. Below are the maintenance duties for which tools and parts have been provided for the using arm and maintenance personnel. Replacements and repairs that are usually the responsibility of ordnance maintenance personnel may be carried out by using arm staff when circumstances allow, at the discretion of the relevant commander. The echelons and terms used in this list of maintenance allocations are defined as follows:

NOTES: (1) Assigned operations will usually be carried out in the level indicated by X.

(2) Assigned operations to the third level, as marked by E, may only be carried out by these units in emergencies.

(3) Assigned operations to the fourth level by E are typically operations of the fifth level. They will not be executed by the fourth level unless the unit is specifically authorized to do so by the chief of the relevant service.

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a. Regularly scheduled maintenance inspections and services are a preventive maintenance task for the using units and are the responsibility of the commanders of operational organizations.

(1) Frequency. The frequencies for the preventive maintenance services listed here are seen as the minimum needed for regular vehicle operation. In unusual operating conditions, like extreme temperatures or dusty or sandy areas, it might be necessary to carry out some maintenance services more often.

(2) First Echelon Involvement. The drivers should stay with their vehicles and help the mechanics during regular second echelon preventive maintenance services. Generally, the driver should bring the vehicle in for a scheduled preventive maintenance service in a reasonably clean condition; meaning it should be dry and not covered in mud or grease to the point that it makes inspection and servicing difficult. However, the vehicle shouldn’t be washed or cleaned too well, as certain types of defects, like cracks, leaks, and loose or shifted parts, are easier to spot if the surfaces are slightly dirty or dusty.

(3) If instructions beyond those in the general procedures in paragraph (4) or the specific procedures in paragraph (5) are needed for properly completing a preventive maintenance service or for fixing a deficiency, you should refer to other sections of the vehicle operator’s manual that relate to the item in question, or consult an authorized individual.

(4) Standard Operating Procedures. These general procedures are fundamental instructions to follow when carrying out the services on the items detailed in the specific procedures. The second echelon personnel must be fully trained in these procedures to apply them automatically.

(a) When new or refurbished subassemblies are installed to fix issues, it's important to ensure they are clean, installed correctly, properly lubricated, and adjusted.

(b) When putting in new lubricant retainer seals, a layer of the lubricant should be spread over the sealing surface of the lip of the seal.

(c) The overall inspection of each item also includes any supporting member or connection, and typically involves checking to see46 if the item is in good condition, properly assembled, secure, or overly worn. The mechanics need to be thoroughly trained in the following explanations of these terms:

1. The inspection for “good condition” is usually a visual check from the outside to see if the unit is damaged beyond safe or usable limits. The term “good condition” is explained further by the following: not bent or twisted, not worn or burned, not broken or cracked, not exposed or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or cut.

2. The inspection of a unit to check if it is “correctly assembled” is typically an external visual inspection to determine whether it is in its standard assembled position in the vehicle.

3. Checking a unit to see if it is “secure” usually involves a visual look from the outside, a physical check by hand, or using a pry bar to test for looseness; this inspection should cover any brackets, lock washers, lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used in the assembly.

4. “Excessively worn” refers to items that are worn down to or beyond their usable limits and are likely to fail if not replaced before the next scheduled inspection.

(d) Special Services. These are shown by repeating the item numbers in the columns that indicate how often the services should be performed, and they specify that the parts or assemblies must receive certain required services. For instance, an item number in one or both columns next to a Tighten procedure means that the actual tightening of the object must be done. The special services include:

1. Adjust. Make all necessary adjustments according to the relevant section of the vehicle operator’s manual, special bulletins, or other current guidelines.

2. Clean. Use dry-cleaning solvent to clean the vehicle's units and remove any excess lubricant, dirt, and other debris. After cleaning the parts, rinse them in clean dry-cleaning solvent and dry them completely. Make sure to keep the parts clean until they are reassembled and avoid letting dry-cleaning solvent come into contact with rubber or other materials that it could damage. Remove the protective grease coating from new parts, as this material is not an effective lubricant.

3. Special lubrication. This includes lubrication tasks that aren't listed in the vehicle Lubrication Guide, as well as those that are included in the guide but should be done during maintenance operations if parts need to be taken apart for inspection or servicing.

4. Serve. This typically involves doing specific tasks, like topping off battery water and draining and refilling units with oil.

47

5. Tighten. All tightening tasks should be done with enough wrench torque (force on the wrench handle) to secure the nut following good mechanical practices. Use a torque-indicating wrench where needed. Don’t overtighten, as this can strip threads or cause distortion. Tightening should always mean the proper installation of lock washers, lock nuts, and cotter pins included to secure the tightening.

(e) When it's hard to do all the preventive maintenance procedures at once, they can sometimes be broken down into sections. The goal is to finish all tasks if possible. All available time during stops and in temporary camp areas should be used, if needed, to ensure maintenance tasks are completed. When limited by the tactical situation, items needing special attention should be prioritized.

(f) The numbers for the preventive maintenance procedures listed below are the same as those found on W.D. AGO Form No. 463, which is the Preventive Maintenance Service Work Sheet for Motorcycles. Certain items on the work sheet that don’t apply to this vehicle are not included in the procedures in this manual. Generally, the numerical order of items on the work sheet is mirrored in the manual procedures, but in some cases, adjustments have been made to save the mechanic’s time and effort.

(5) Specific Procedures. The steps for carrying out each task in the 1,000-mile maintenance procedures are detailed in the chart below. Each page of the chart includes a column on the left side that corresponds to the 1,000-mile maintenance.

Test Drive

60

a. See SNL–N 19 for common hand tools accessible to the second level.

b. See the list below for all the special tools available to the second echelon.

61

a. This section covers troubleshooting for the entire vehicle. The engine troubleshooting part identifies issues related to a system that impacts engine performance, such as fuel or ignition. To pinpoint problems to specific faulty components of a system, you need to refer to the relevant part of this section once the faulty system or systems have been identified in the engine troubleshooting part.

b. The information in this section is relevant to the vehicle's operation under normal conditions. If extreme temperatures arise, it is assumed that the vehicle operator has made the necessary adjustments for the conditions faced.

a. Instruction. This subparagraph identifies issues related to a system that affects engine performance. Step b below provides straightforward engine tests to assess the mechanical condition of the engine. References in step b point to step c for engine mechanical problems, or to relevant paragraphs in this section for system issues, or if a test reveals a specific unit is malfunctioning, to the corresponding paragraph in this manual.

(1) Engine Won't Start When Using the Foot Starter.

(a) Clutch slipping. Check the adjustment (par. 48).

(b) Sheared engine sprocket key. Replace (par. 65).

(c) Starter clutch stuck due to thickened oil. Free up starter clutch. Use the correct type of oil.

(d) Starter clutch is worn. Contact maintenance personnel.

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(e) Engine locked (seized). Contact the organization's mechanic.

(2) The engine turns over but doesn't start.

(a) Fuel supply valve is closed. Open the valve.

b) Empty fuel tank. Fill tank.

(c) Fuel system is malfunctioning. See paragraph 31.

(d) Ignition system is not working properly. See paragraph 32.

(e) Battery is weak or dead. Check paragraph 34.

(f) Inadequate compression. See step b below.

(3) Low Compression. See step b below for the test.

(a) Incorrect valve tappet adjustment. Adjust (par. 43).

(b) Valves sticking. Use dry-cleaning solvent to loosen stuck valve stems in guides.

Poor lubrication. See paragraph __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__.

(d) Loose cylinder head bolts and/or a defective gasket. Tighten the head bolts or replace the gasket (par. 41).

(4) Too hot.

(a) Problematic fuel system. Check paragraph 31.

(b) Dirt on cylinders. Clean the fins on the cylinder, especially the fins on the cylinder head.

(c) Faulty lubrication system. See paragraph 30.

(d) Faulty ignition system. See paragraph 32.

(e) Do not let the engine run while the vehicle is not moving. Do not idle the engine for more than 1 minute.

(f) Valve tappet adjustment is incorrect. Check step b (1) below for the test, and see paragraph 43 for the adjustment.

(g) Drive chains are too tight. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60).

(h) Too much carbon buildup. Check with the mechanic.

(5) No Power.

(a) Faulty fuel system. See paragraph 31.

(b) Faulty ignition system. See paragraph 32.

(c) Overheating. See step (4) above.

(d) Faulty lubrication system. Refer to paragraph 30.

(e) Poor compression. See step (3) above.

(f) Drive chains too tight. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60).

Brakes sticking. Adjust (pars. __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ and __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__).

Popping and spitting through carb.

(a) Water in fuel. Water can be found in the fuel tank and carburetor. Drain and refill the fuel tank and carburetor bowl.

(b) Wrong valve tappet adjustment or stuck valves. Test (step b (1) below). Adjust tappets (par. 43).63 (c) Faulty ignition system. Check paragraph 32.

(d) Faulty fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31.

(e) Weak or broken valve springs. Check with a higher authority.

(7) Spark Knock.

(a) Faulty ignition system. See paragraph 32.

(b) Too much carbon buildup. See step b (2) below.

(c) Faulty fuel system. See paragraph 31.

(d) Faulty lubrication system. See paragraph 30.

(8) Loud banging and metal clanging.

(a) Front drive chain is too loose. See paragraph 36.

(b) Engine sprocket is loose on the shaft.

(c) Valve tappets that are too loose. Adjust (par. 43).

(d) Engine mounting bolts are loose. Tighten them.

(e) Transmission mounting stud nuts are loose. Tighten (par. 60).

Spark timing is off. Adjust.

(g) Engine components worn out or damaged. Alert the organization's mechanic.

b. Tests to Determine the Mechanical Condition of the Engine.

(1) Rings and Valves. This is a straightforward compression test. If possible, perform this test with the engine warm. The ignition switch must be off. Crank the engine slowly, putting your full weight on the starter crank. The engine's compression should be able to hold the weight of an average-sized rider for several seconds before the crank completes its full range of motion. If the engine provides little resistance to the starter crank when testing either or both cylinders, it suggests that compression is insufficient in one or both cylinders. Possible causes for this issue include no clearance or insufficient clearance at the valve tappets, valves sticking in guides, valves not sealing properly, leaking cylinder heads, loose spark plugs in the heads, severely worn and/or broken piston rings, worn cylinders and pistons, or lack of lubrication. Conduct external checks first: Ensure that there is oil in the tank, that the spark plugs are tight, and inspect around the cylinder heads for any signs of leaking oil. In extremely cold weather, resistance to the starter crank may increase due to “stiff” oil in the engine and transmission. So, do not confuse this condition with actual engine compression.

(2) Unusual Engine Noise. Due to the design of the motorcycle, it's essential to properly adjust the various units and components for smooth and quiet engine operation. Many motorcycles have been taken out of service and had their engines replaced because simple tune-ups and proper adjustments were overlooked. Rough, jerky, and noisy engine behavior during low-speed riding is usually caused by overly loose front and rear drive chains or a transmission that’s not securely attached to its frame.64 If the engine idles fast with the front drive chain too loose, it can give the misleading impression that the engine bearings and pistons need to be replaced. A loose engine sprocket on its shaft will create a pounding noise similar to that of badly worn engine bearings. If the front drive chain is too tight or the engine sprocket and chain are significantly worn, a grinding noise will occur, which seems to come from the engine. Excessively loose valve tappets will produce abnormal metallic sounds in the valve timing gear train and engine crankcase. Advancing the spark too much can lead to rough engine performance at low speeds, along with spark knock, pounding, and overheating. Engine pounding and rough operation, along with the resulting noise, can be due to loose mounting bolts. A generator that’s not mounted properly can create insufficient gear-tooth clearance, causing a “howl” in the gear case.

a. The action of the oil feed pump is shown by the red signal light on the right side of the instrument panel. (The red signal light is usually grounded by the oil pressure switch. When the oil pump pressure builds up to several pounds, the diaphragm opens the signal light circuit.) The action of the scavenger (oil return) pump is shown (when the engine is running) by oil dripping from a ¹⁄₈–inch hole in the oil return tube (the large tube) inside the oil tank, just behind the oil gauge rod (dip stick) tube. Since the oil feed pump and the scavenger pump are separate units that operate individually, it’s possible for either to function alone (due to a faulty unit), which can affect engine oil pressure and the return of oil to the tank. The action of the vent pipe (the small pipe) inside the oil tank serves a “breather” purpose; its function is not indicated in any way. Before trying to diagnose issues in the engine lubricating system, the rider must be familiar with and understand the indications from the instrument panel signal lights (par. 7 f).

b. Red Signal Light Doesn't Turn On When Ignition and Light Switch Are Activated.

(1) Check the other lights to see if the battery is charged and make sure the switch and wiring connections between the battery and the switch are in good condition. Ensure that the wire connection is secure and the screw on the oil pressure switch terminal is tight. If the light doesn’t come on after these checks, it means either the lamp is burnt out or the oil pressure switch is faulty.

(2) To check if the oil pressure switch is the issue, disconnect the wire from the switch terminal; ground the wire on the switch body and see if the red light turns on with the ignition and light switch in the “ON” position. If the light turns on, it means the oil pressure switch is faulty and needs to be replaced. If the light doesn't turn on during this test, it means the lamp is burned out. Remove the panel cover (par. 119) and replace the lamp.

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c. Red Signal Light Keeps Blinking After Engine Runs Above Idle Speeds.

(1) Check the oil supply in the tank. If the light doesn't turn off after the engine warms up or after 1 minute of operation, you need to do further checks to find the problem, as this indicates a faulty engine lubrication system or an issue in the signal circuit. First, rule out the signal system.

(2) Test the oil pressure signal switch to the panel signal light circuit. Disconnect the wire from the oil pressure switch terminal, turn on the ignition and the light switch, and watch the red signal light. If the light comes on, there is a short circuit in the wiring. If the light does not come on, it indicates a normal condition, and you should test the oil pressure switch of the signal circuit.

(3) Install the new oil pressure switch and start the engine. If the red warning light goes off after the engine runs above idle speeds, it means there's an issue with the oil pressure signal switch. If the red warning light stays on, it indicates a problem with the oil feed pump. Replace the pump (par. 44).

d. Excessive Smoke from Exhaust and Oil Spray Issues from Gear Case Breather Outlet. This means that the scavenger pump isn’t draining the engine’s crankcase and sending oil back to the tank. With the engine running at idle, check the oil return in the tank. Remove the tank oil cap, and with a small flashlight (if the situation allows), see if oil is dripping from the ¹⁄₈–inch hole in the oil return tube. The hole is on the underside of the tube and is located just behind the oil gauge rod tube. If visibility is poor, put your finger over the hole to feel for the pulsing of oil pressure. If oil isn’t returning to the tank, the scavenger pump is faulty. If the crankcase breather valve is improperly timed, smoke will come from the exhaust, but it won’t be as noticeable as when the scavenger pump isn’t working. Refer to step e below for this condition.

e. Smoke Issues from Exhaust and Excessive Oil Condition Exists Around Cylinder Exhaust Ports (where exhaust pipes enter cylinders). The engine scavenger pump and crankcase breather valve are a single unit, operated by a worm gear located behind the engine shaft pinion gear. Although the scavenger pump isn’t “timed,” the breather valve sleeve that drives it must be timed to maintain balance in the engine’s lubrication system. If, for any reason, the scavenger pump unit is removed from the engine base, the breather valve must be retimed (within the gear case) when the pump assembly is put back. An incorrectly timed breather valve will force oil past the piston rings, causing some smoke, and will also push oil out through the exhaust ports, resulting in an excessive oily condition around the exhaust pipes where they enter the cylinder ports.

a. Many symptoms that might seem related to the air-fuel system are actually caused by a faulty ignition. Before making any adjustments beyond the clearly necessary ones, thoroughly check the ignition system. The gasoline tank supply valve serves a dual purpose, and its operation is explained in paragraph 5 b.

b. Turn off the gasoline supply valve. Disconnect the fuel line at the strainer, open the valve, and check for a free flow of fuel from the pipe. If the line is clogged, remove it, clean it out, and replace it.

c. Take out, take apart, clean, and put back the fuel strainer (par. 72).

d. Hard Starting, Spitting, and Misfiring Caused by Water in Fuel. Remove the drain screw from the carburetor bowl, drain the bowl, and put the screw back in. Be careful not to strip the threads on the drain screw when replacing it. If you still see signs of water, dirt, or other debris after draining the bowl, replace the carburetor (pars. 70 and 71). Remove the air cleaner oil cup and check for any water in the oil. Drain, clean, refill to the correct level mark, and replace the cup. If this process doesn’t resolve the issue, drain the fuel tank by taking out the drain plug located under the tank at the front. Replace the drain plug and refill the tank with fuel.

e. Hard Starting, or Missing at Idling and Low Speeds. The carburetor's low speed circuit needs adjustment (par. 68). The high speed circuit of the carburetor is managed by a fixed jet.

f. Impossible to Get a Good Carburetor Adjustment: Lean Spot Between Idling and Up to 30 MPH. Carburetors that have been in use for a while get dirty, and a crust builds up in the throttle barrel, making it tough—if not impossible—to get a proper low-speed adjustment. Replace the carburetor (pars. 70 and 71).

g. Fuel Leaking from Carburetor. Signs of dirt in the float valve, incorrect float level, or a defective float. Replace the carburetor (pars. 70 and 71).

h. Difficult Starting, Fuel Mixture Too Rich. The air cleaner oil cup is overfilled, or the cleaner elements are extremely dirty, restricting enough air flow to the carburetor. Check the oil cup level. If the oil cup level is correct, remove, clean, and reinstall the cleaner elements (par. 76).

a. When troubleshooting the ignition system, start with the most obvious and simple checks first. For instance: Turn on the ignition and the light switch, then observe the lights to see if the battery is supplying current; next, check if current is reaching the spark coil, circuit breaker, etc. Faulty spark plugs are responsible for most ignition issues in engines. The only maintenance for spark plugs is sandblasting to clean them and correctly adjusting the electrodes. If spark plugs are in doubt, they should be replaced. (par. 83)

b. Fix all bad connections in the ignition wiring system ( fig. 48).

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c. Take off the circuit breaker cover, start the engine using the starter pedal, and watch the circuit breaker points open and close. The correct point gap when the breaker lever's fiber is at the highest point of the cam is 0.022 inch. For adjustments, see paragraph 84.

d. Testing for High Tension Spark. The spark at the plug gaps depends on the condition and operation of the circuit breaker points, the condition of the condenser, and the condition of the spark coil and high-tension cables. The best way to test the ignition system is through elimination, checking each component by replacing it until the issue is found; then, replace any serviceable units that were removed.

(1) Disconnect the spark plug cable from one plug, keeping the other cable and plug connected (to allow for a ground return of high-tension current); turn the engine until the circuit breaker points are closed; turn on the ignition and light switch; hold the high-tension cable terminal ¼ inch away from the cylinder; open and close the circuit breaker points with your finger and watch for a spark to jump across the gap. If a spark jumps the gap, it means the ignition's primary and secondary circuits are complete.

(2) If there's no spark at the high-tension gap, check the primary and secondary circuits. Rotate the engine until the breaker points are open; hold the cable end ¼ inch away from the cylinder; turn on the ignition switch, and use a screwdriver to create a solid ground connection between the movable breaker (lever) point and the ground. If you get a good spark at the high-tension cable terminal gap when you break the ground connection made by the screwdriver, clean or replace the faulty breaker points (par. 84).

(3) If the circuit breaker points are in good condition, but there’s no spark (or a very weak spark) at the high-tension gap, replace the condenser (par. 85) and repeat the test from step (1) above. If replacing the condenser doesn’t solve the issue, replace the spark coil (par. 89).

(4) If tests done in steps d (1), (2), and (3) above show that the ignition system is working fine (with no parts replaced), but there are still ignition issues, it means the breaker points, condenser, and spark coil need to be replaced with new parts, and the engine should be tested on the road after each replacement until the problem is found and fixed.

e. Ignition System Tests Satisfactory but Engine Starts Hard, Overheats or Misses. This clearly indicates that the spark plugs are faulty. Remove the spark plugs, clean them with a sandblaster, regap the points to between 0.028 inch and 0.030 inch, and reinstall them. Replace any defective plugs with new ones of the correct (No. 2) heat range (par. 83).

f. Engine Misses After Warm-up, or When Quite Hot. Replacing the spark plugs should fix this issue. If it doesn't, then either the condenser or spark coil is to blame. Replace the condenser first (par. 85). If the new condenser doesn’t solve the problem, replace the spark coil (par. 89).

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a. Panel Green Signal Light Keeps Burning Above 20 Miles Per Hour. Fix any faulty wiring and connections between the battery and generator. Refer to figure 55. Check the condition of the relay and, if needed, replace it (par. 95). Inspect the brushes and commutator of the generator. Clean the commutator if necessary (par. 91). If the brushes are sticking in their holders or are too worn, replace the generator (pars. 93 and 94).

b. Generator Output Fails to Keep Battery Charged Even Though the Green Signal Light Looks Good. Test the battery: if it won't hold a charge or is faulty, replace it (par. 113). If the machine is mostly used at night, have a higher authority increase the charging rate of the generator. Check the brushes and commutator of the generator. Clean the commutator if needed (par. 91). If the brushes are significantly worn or stuck in their holders, replace the generator (pars. 93 and 94).

a. Panel Lamps Don’t Light Up When the Switch Is Turned On. Check each lamp, and if it’s burned out, replace it (par. 120). Check the battery; if it’s dead, replace it (par. 113). Fix any faulty wiring and connections (fig. 71). Test the light switch: if it’s not working, replace it (par. 116). Test the blackout light switch (inside the lamp body): if it’s not working, replace the lamp (par. 114).

b. Lights Burn Dim but Brighten Up Considerably When Engine Is Accelerated. Test the battery with a hydrometer. If it’s not fully charged, replace it (par. 113). Fix any faulty wiring, connections, and switches in the circuit (fig. 73). If the battery drains again after a short time of operation, get the generator’s output increased (refer to a higher echelon).

c. Lights Shine Brighter Than Normal When Accelerating Engine. Check the battery: if it's faulty, replace it (par. 113). Fix any bad wiring and connections (fig. 73). Don't forget the ground connection of the lamp body.

d. Blackout Stop Lamp and/or Service Stop Lamp Fail to Light. If the bulb is burnt out, replace it (par. 115). If the brake pedal isn't activating the switch, fix the malfunction. Repair any faulty wiring and connections (fig. 73).

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e. Horn Doesn't Sound When Ignition and Light Switch Are Turned On and Horn Button Is Pressed. Check the battery by turning on the lights. If the lights are dim, replace the battery (par. 113). Fix any faulty wiring and connections (fig. 73). If the horn doesn't respond to adjustments, replace it (par. 117).

a. If the clutch is slipping under load or dragging (the transmission gears will shift roughly and clash) when it’s disengaged, it’s important to pay attention to the clutch and controls. In either situation, the first thing to check is the adjustment of the controls, as that’s usually what needs attention. You can tell the gear shifter controls need adjustment if the transmission gears “jump” out of engagement when accelerating the vehicle or when under heavy load. CAUTION: This warning must not be ignored.

(1) Clutch Slips When Fully Engaged. Adjust the clutch control (par. 48). Adjust the spring tension of the clutch (par. 48). If the clutch continues to slip, replace either the disks, the springs, or both (par. 48).

(2) Clutch Drags When Fully Released. Adjust control (par. 48). Adjust spring tension (par. 48).

(3) Clutch rattles when it's disengaged and the engine is idling. In this case, the clutch was likely not assembled correctly. Refer to paragraph 51 a.

(4) Transmission "Jumps" Out of Gear When Accelerating the Vehicle or During Heavy Towing. Adjust the shifter lever control linkage (par. 54).

(5) Transmission gears shift roughly or grind when the clutch is fully disengaged. Adjust the clutch control linkage and spring tension (par. 48). Ensure that the transmission mounting bolts and units are securely tightened (pars. 57 and 58). Drain and refill the transmission with the appropriate lubricant (fig. 10). If these methods do not resolve the issue, consult an expert.

a. Transmission Countershaft and Rear Wheel Sprockets Show Excessive Wear on One Side of Teeth. Adjust the position of the rear wheel axle to align the rear wheel sprocket with the transmission sprocket (par. 60). If they cannot be aligned, the frame is out of alignment, and the issue must be referred to someone more senior.

b. Chains Make a Grinding Noise When Engine is Idling and Vehicle is on a Rear Stand. If either chain is too tight, adjust it to the correct tension (pars. 59 and 60). Check both chains for dirt and grit. If they're dirty, clean and lubricate them (par. 20 c (10)). If either chain is dry, adjust the chain oilers (par. 61). Severely worn chains and sprockets will cause this issue; replace the worn parts (pars. 62 and 63).

c. Front Chain Dry and/or Red (Rusty) in Appearance. The chain in this condition hasn't been getting enough lubrication.70 Adjust the chain oiler (par. 61). If the chain is damaged due to lack of oil, replace it (par. 62).

d. Rough or Jerky Vehicle Operation at Low Speed. Chains are too loose. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60).

e. Excessive Side Play at Rim of Front Wheel. Adjust the bearing cones (par. 126). If the cones or hub races are significantly worn, replace the wheel (par. 125).

f. Front Wheel Spinning Test Produces Grinding, Grating Noise (not in brake). The wheel bearings are faulty. Replace wheel (par. 125).

g. Rear Wheel Has Too Much Side Play at Rim of Wheel. The hub bearings are faulty. Replace the wheel (par. 127).

h. Rear Wheel Has Side Play Greater than 0.010 inch on Axle. The thrust washers in the hub are worn or damaged. Replace the wheel (par. 127).

i. Rear Wheel Spinning Test Produces Grinding, Grating Noise (chain removed). Tighten the wheel mounting screws. If this doesn't fix the noise, replace the wheel (par. 127).

a. Rear Brake Doesn’t Hold When You Press the Foot Pedal. If the brake linings are wet, drive the vehicle and gently press the brake pedal to dry the linings. After drying, adjust the brake rod length (par. 96 b). If the brake operating lever is in front of the vertical position when the brake is applied, or if the brake doesn't hold, replace the faulty brake shoes (par. 96).

b. Rear Brake Squeaks or Chatters When Used. Tighten the side plate sleeve nut if it’s loose. Adjust the shoe position (par. 96). If the operating camshaft and/or side cover bearing is worn, replace the assembly (par. 96). If the brake shoe spring is faulty, replace it (par. 96). If the lining on the brake shoes is loose, worn out, or defective, replace the shoes (par. 96). If the brake drum is worn or damaged, replace the brake drum and sprocket assembly (par. 96).

c. Rear Brake Drags (vehicle on rear stand). Adjust the linkage (par. 96). If it still drags, balance the shoe assemblies and adjust the linkage (par. 96).

d. Front Brake Doesn't Hold When Hand Lever Is Used. Adjust the brake control (par. 97). If the brakes are wet, drive the vehicle a short distance while applying slight pressure on the brake lever to dry the linings. If the brake still doesn't hold, replace the shoes (par. 97).

e. Front Brake Drags. Adjust the control linkage (par. 97). If the brake still drags, balance the shoes and readjust the control linkage (par. 97).

f. Front Brake Action Rough and/or Chatters. Adjust the control linkage assembly (par. 97). If the problem persists, check the brake71 shoes, shoe spring, camshaft bearing, and side cover bearing. Replace any faulty parts or assemblies (par. 97).

a. Motorcycle Pulls to One Side. Check and fix the alignment of the rear wheel (par. 60). If the front forks are bent or twisted, replace them (par. 98). If the problem continues, consult someone with more expertise.

b. Motorcycle Weaves from Side to Side. Adjust the steering damper based on your speed and the road conditions. If that doesn't work, inflate the tires to the correct pressure. Ensure the rear wheel mounting screws are secure. If the steering head bearings are too tight, it will cause weaving. Check the steering head bearings (par. 98) and adjust them if needed.

c. Motorcycle Shimmies at High Speed. Inflate tires to the correct pressure. Adjust the steering damper to match the speed and road conditions. If the tire tread is worn unevenly and switching the tires doesn't fix the issue, replace the faulty tires. Ensure the axle nuts are tight. If the rocker plate studs and bushings are excessively worn, or if the fork springs are broken, replace them (par. 98).

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a. Description. This 2-cylinder, V-type, air-cooled gasoline engine with an L-head design works on the 4-stroke, 4-cycle principle. The flywheel and connecting rod assemblies use roller bearings. The engine is equipped with low-expansion aluminum alloy, cam-ground, horizontally slotted pistons and deep-finned aluminum cylinder heads. When viewed from the left side of the vehicle (drive chain side), the engine rotates counterclockwise.

b. The lubrication system is a dry-sump type, where the oil supply is kept in a tank separate from the engine. Oil is circulated by a supply feed pump and a scavenger return pump. This oil circulation system is crucial for both cooling and lubricating the engine.

c. Data.

a. A tune-up involves properly adjusting the valve tappets, ignition points of the circuit breaker, and spark plug electrodes; checking and fixing the ignition timing; draining and flushing the carburetor bowl; cleaning and flushing the gasoline strainer; cleaning the muffler outlet; servicing the air cleaner; and adjusting the carburetor.

(1) Adjusting the valve tappet (par. 43).

(2) Adjusting the circuit breaker point (par. 84).

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Spark plug maintenance (par. __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__).

(4) Timing ignition (par. __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__).

(5) Draining the carburetor bowl (par. 73).

(6) Cleaning the fuel strainer (par. 72).

(7) Cleaning the muffler outlet involves removing carbon deposits, caked dirt, oil, and other debris using a screwdriver blade or another appropriate tool. Do not make the outlet size larger while cleaning.

(8) Air cleaner maintenance (par. __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__).

Adjusting carburetor (par. __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__).

a. Removal. Refer to figure 15, showing the parts and units that need to be removed to carry out this operation.

(1) Take off the instrument panel cover (par. 119).

(2) Take out the gas tank and oil tank (par. 107).

(3) Take off the bolt that connects the cylinder head bracket to the frame lug: this will release the clamp that holds the front spark plug cable. Be especially careful with the shim washers located between the cylinder head bracket and the frame lug, as these washers need to be replaced when you install the cylinder head.

(4) Take out the spark plug or plugs.

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(5) Take off the cylinder head bolts with the head bolt wrench 41–W–1525. NOTE: On some 42 WLA models, flat washers (0.095–inch thick) were used alongside regular (heavy) cylinder head bolt washers to stop the cylinder head bolts from bottoming out.

(6) Carry out carbon removal (head only). See paragraph 42.

b. Installing Gasket and Head (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__).

(1) Clean the top of the cylinder. Apply a light layer of grease or oil to both sides of the gasket before placing it on the cylinder head. Put the head on the cylinder.

(2) Install the head bolts, using heavy washers (also use 0.095-inch thick plain washers if any were removed). If you're unsure about using 0.095-inch thick washers in addition to the regular washers, measure the depth of the bolt holes in the cylinder head. If the head has a hole depth of 31/32 inch, you must use the 0.095-inch thick washers along with the regular washers. If the head has a bolt hole depth of 1¹⁄₁₆ inch, the 0.095-inch thick washers are not needed.

(3) Install the cylinder frame bracket using the two long bolts, special spool-shaped spacers, and flat washers. The spacers should be placed between the cylinder heads and the frame bracket. A flat washer should be positioned under the head of each long cylinder bolt, on top of the bracket; some engines may have flat washers between the spacers and the bracket.

(4) Tighten the head bolts evenly to ensure a secure cylinder head joint. Use the head bolt wrench 41–W–1525, starting by turning the bolts just snug, then tighten each bolt an additional ¹⁄₈ to ¼ turn at a time until all are securely tightened. If you have a torque wrench, tighten the head bolts to a minimum of 60 foot-pounds and a maximum of 65 foot-pounds when the engine is cold.

a. When the cylinder head is taken off to replace the gasket, carbon should only be cleaned off the head.

a. Adjust Tappets with Engine Cold. Before loosening the valve spring covers, applying a small amount of oil around the top edge of each cover will help raise the cover without damaging the seal packing.

(1) Loosen the valve spring covers; use the tappet and valve cover wrench 41–W–3617.

(2) Before checking or adjusting the tappet clearance, ensure the valve is seated and that the tappet is in its lowest position by turning the engine forward until the corresponding tappet (inlet or exhaust, whichever one is being75 adjusted) in the other cylinder is at its highest position (valve fully open). Inlet valves are located closest to the carburetor manifold.

(4) Slightly loosen the lock nut on the adjusting screw (“2,” fig. 16) before turning the adjusting screw (fig. 16).

(5) Set the inlet valve tappets to a minimum clearance of 0.004 inches and a maximum of 0.005 inches between the valve stems and tappet (“1” and “4,” fig. 16). Use a thickness gauge to check the clearance; recheck (adjusting if needed) the clearance after the lock nut has been tightened securely.

(6) Set the exhaust valve tappets to have a minimum clearance of 0.006 inches and a maximum clearance of 0.007 inches between the valve stems and the tappet. Use a thickness gauge to measure the clearance; double-check (and adjust if needed) the clearance after the lock nut has been tightened securely.

(7) Before tightening the valve spring covers, check the paper gasket between each cover and tappet guide. If it’s broken or damaged, replace it with a new gasket to avoid oil leaks. Then, tighten the valve spring covers securely.

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a. Deletion.

(1) Disconnect the oil tank feed pipe from the oil tank. Put a nipple cap on the tank nipple to stop oil from leaking out, or drain the tank. Disconnect the oil feed pipe from the oil pump nipple.

(2) The oil pump is attached to the engine gear case cover with one hex bolt and three nuts. Two of the nuts are extra long to give you more room for the wrench, so be sure to remember their position for reinstallation. After you take off the screw and nuts, remove the pump. Unless you have a new pump gasket, be careful not to damage or break the old one, as it's a special gasket in terms of thickness and the holes for the oil channels. A “homemade” gasket could completely ruin the oiling system.

b. Installing Oil Pump.

(1) Clean the surface of the pump body that mounts on the gear case cover and check that the gasket is in good condition. Clean the face of the oil pump body.

(2) Start the pump on the mounting studs, slowly turn the engine and gently press against the pump until the driving dogs on the end of the cam gear shaft align with and drop into the driving slot in the oil pump rotor.

(3) Insert the hexagon-head bolt and lock washer, then attach the three lock washers and nuts (two of which are long extension nuts) onto the pump mounting studs. Ensure that you replace the two extra long nuts onto the studs they were originally taken from.

(4) Firmly tighten the mounting bolt and the three nuts.

(5) Connect the oil feed pipe to the oil pump nipple. Take off the cap from the tank nipple and attach the upper end of the oil feed pipe to this nipple. Make sure to tighten the nipple nuts securely.

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a. Looking at figures 18 and 19 will give you a clear idea of the steps needed to remove the engine. Don't try to take any shortcuts, as this could take more time and potentially damage parts or unit assemblies.

(1) Disconnect the battery's ground wire at the frame lug connection on the right side of the vehicle.

(2) To detach the brake front rod from the bell crank (which is on the right side of the rear support rod), take out the cotter pin and flat washer.

(3) Loosen the nut on the rear support stud of the footboard and take off the nut from the front stud. Then pull the footboard outward to detach the right front end of the safety guard. Disconnect the front brake rod at the bell crank. Take out the bolt that holds the front exhaust pipe clamp. Remove the nut from the rear support rod to free the stoplight switch and the back end of the side bar. Remove the nut from the front support rod to free the footboard and brake assembly for removal.

(4) Take out the two rear mounting bolts and lower the back end of the skid plate (fig. 37).

Remove exhaust (par. __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__).

(6) Disconnect the oil pipe from the tank and put a cap on the oil tank feed pipe to stop any oil from leaking out, or drain the tank. Disconnect the pipe from the oil pump and take off the oil pipe.

(7) Unplug the spark control wire from the circuit breaker lever, and release the control housing clamp at the base of the cylinder.

(8) Unlink the rear brake rod from the bell crank.

(9) Unplug the red wire and black wire from the front end of the relay; also unplug the green wire from the generator terminal.

Remove spark plugs.

(11) Take off the engine top mounting (cylinder head bracket) from the frame lug bolt: this also releases the front spark plug cable clamp. Be especially careful with any shim washers between the cylinder head bracket and frame lug; you'll need to put them back in the original position.

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(12) Take out the bottom bolt of the lever, releasing the gear shifter lever from the shifter rod.

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(13) Close the fuel tank valve. Take off the gasoline pipe from the tank nipple and the fuel filter nipple.

(14) Unplug the throttle control wire from the carburetor lever.

(15) Disconnect the air intake hose fitting from the carburetor (four screws) and leave it attached to the hose. Remove the air cleaner from the mounting bracket (par. 78).

(16) Take off the front chain guard (par. 102).

(17) Take off the engine sprocket (par. 65).

(18) Take out two screws and locks that secure the inner chain guard to the crankcase.

(19) With a ¹³⁄₁₆-inch deep socket wrench placed over the rear footboard support rod stud, remove the extended nut and pull the support rod out from the right side of the vehicle.

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(20) To disconnect the circuit breaker from the coil wire and the shielding ground from the rear terminals of the coil, disconnect the oil pressure signal light wire from the oil pressure switch terminal. You will need to move the air cleaner mounting bracket to the side to access the rear shielding ground terminal of the coil.

(21) Engine mounting bolts are held in place by cotter pins and castle nuts. Remove all engine mounting bolts, except the one under the generator; this bolt can't be taken out without removing the generator. Just push it up enough to clear the frame engine lug when you take the engine out of the frame.

(22) Lift and take the engine out from the right side of the frame.

a. Installing the engine is usually the opposite of the process followed in engine removal. Make sure to carefully follow the next steps because checking and adjusting controls and other parts is essential for the vehicle to operate properly.

(1) Lift the engine into the frame from the right side of the vehicle. Ensure that the mounting bolt under the generator is elevated to clear the engine lug on the frame.

(2) Pass the last three engine mounting bolts up from the underside of the frame lugs through the crankcase lugs: install flat washers and castle nuts. Place a flat washer and a castle nut on the mounting bolt under the generator. Tighten all four castle nuts securely and lock them in place with cotter pins.

(3) Connect the circuit breaker to the coil wire. Attach the wire to the coil's rear terminal and ground the shielding on the coil case terminal.

(4) Connect the oil pressure switch wire to the switch terminal.

(5) Pass the rear footboard support rod through the frame lug from the right side of the vehicle and install the extended ¹³⁄₁₆–inch nut.

(6) Secure the inner chain guard by attaching the two screws and locks that mount it to the engine base. Push the edge of the locks into the screw slots for added security.

(7) Attach the engine sprocket and front drive chain together. Make sure the engine shaft is clean, the sprocket taper is clean, and that the key is in position before tightening the sprocket nut. Use a hammer on the wrench to tighten the nut securely.

(8) Install the outer front chain guard (par. 102).

(9) Connect the hose and fitting assembly by installing two bolts, washers, and nuts to secure the air cleaner to the frame bracket; then install four screws to secure the hose fitting to the carburetor. NOTE: If the cleaner frame bracket was loosened and moved to access the coil's rear terminals, make sure to securely mount the bracket before installing the air cleaner assembly.

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(10) Connect the throttle control wire to the carburetor lever. Ensure that the throttle fully closes when the right grip is turned outward and that it opens fully when the grip is turned inward.

(11) Install the fuel pipe. Tighten the union nuts firmly on the tank and fuel strainer fittings. Open the fuel supply valve and check the connections for any leaks.

(12) Attach the gear shifter lever end to the gear shifter rod by tightening the bolt and nut.

(13) Attach the engine top mounting bracket (cylinder head bracket) to the frame lug, being careful to install the required number of thin shims, along with the clamp for the front spark plug cable, to fill the space between the bracket and frame lug before tightening the bolt nut. NOTE: The frame lug must be free of paint or grease to ensure a clean “electrical” connection with the plated shims and mounting bracket for proper radio bonding.

(14) Before installing spark plugs, check for cleanliness and proper electrode adjustment. Service if needed (par. 83). Replace gaskets to make sure the joints are tight.

(15) Connect the red and black wires to the relay: connect the green wire to the generator terminal labeled "SWITCH." See the wiring diagram (fig. 73).

(16) Attach the rear brake rod to the bell crank. Install a plain washer and secure it with a cotter pin.

(17) Connect the spark control wire to the circuit breaker lever and secure the control wire housing clamp under the cylinder base nut. Ensure that the spark advances fully (lever inward) when the control grip (left handlebar) is turned inward, and that the spark retards fully when the control grip is turned outward. Make any necessary adjustments at the control wire and lever connection.

(18) Take off the nipple cap from the tank oil pipe nipple (if one was used) and connect the oil feed pipe, making sure to securely tighten the union nuts at the tank and oil pump.

(19) Position the exhaust pipe and muffler assembly and attach the rear hanger frame bolt, washer, and nut. Secure the muffler front mounting bracket bolt, but don’t tighten the nut until the skid plate rear bracket is positioned on this bolt.

(20) Raise the back end of the skid plate, then secure the rear mounting bracket and the front mounting bracket of the muffler with a bolt, washer, and nut. Attach the left side bracket of the skid plate, tightening the nut on the support rod and the bolt and nut on the bracket.

(21) Install the right side footboard, sidebar, and brake pedal assembly. Put the stop light switch bracket on the rear support rod before adding the lock washer and tightening the nut. Attach the front exhaust pipe clamp to the sidebar. Install the lock washer and tighten the nut on the sidebar front support rod. Connect the right end of the front safety guard to the sidebar using the footboard front support stud. Replace the lock washer and tighten the nut. Also, tighten the nut on the footboard rear support stud. Connect the stop light switch control to the brake foot pedal.

(22) Attach the front brake rod to the bell crank; put on a plain washer and secure it with a cotter pin.

(23) Connect the battery ground wire to the frame lug on the right side of the vehicle.

b. Check the instrument panel signal lights for normal indications, and make sure there’s oil in the tank before starting the engine.

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a. The clutch is a straightforward multiple dry disc type, consisting of two steel discs and three lined discs, one of which adds spring action within the disc pack to “cushion” the clutch operation.

a. If clutch adjustment is properly maintained, the clutch will cause minimal issues. The ease of shifting gears and the lifespan of the transmission gear shifter clutch dogs largely depend on the complete disengagement of the clutch. Clutch adjustment has two components: control linkage and spring tension. Don't adjust the clutch spring tension before fixing the control adjustment.

b. Clutch Control Linkage (fig. 22). Operating the foot pedal, control cable, and clutch release lever moves the push rod through the hollow transmission shaft, allowing you to disengage or engage the clutch as needed. You need to properly adjust the control cable and release lever before making adjustments to the push rod.

c. Clutch Control Adjustment (figs. __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, and __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__).

(1) Adjusting Cable Length. With the clutch fully disengaged (foot pedal heel down), the clutch release lever should clear the countershaft sprocket cover stud and/or nut by ¹⁄₁₆ inch. If the clutch release lever hits the sprocket cover and nut, the movement of the clutch push rod is limited, and the clutch can't be fully disengaged. The control cable length must be adjusted to achieve ¹⁄₁₆ inch of clearance between the clutch release lever and the sprocket cover stud and/or nut. To adjust the clutch control cable, first remove the adjustable end from the foot pedal stud (figs. 23 and 24). With the foot pedal in the forward (toe down) position, take out the cotter pin and washer holding the cable end. Release the other end of the cable from the notch in the clutch release lever by pressing the release lever inward and lifting the cable end out of the notch. Move the foot pedal to the rear (heel down) position and detach the adjustable end of the cable from the foot pedal stud. Loosen the lock nut and turn the cable end to the right (clockwise) to shorten the cable; turn it to the left (counter-clockwise) to lengthen the cable. Tighten the lock nut, reattach the cable end to the foot pedal stud, put the washer and cotter pin back in place, and reinstall the other end of the cable in the notch of the clutch release lever.

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