This is a modern-English version of The corset and the crinoline : A book of modes and costumes from remote periods to the present time, originally written by Lord, William Barry. It has been thoroughly updated, including changes to sentence structure, words, spelling, and grammar—to ensure clarity for contemporary readers, while preserving the original spirit and nuance. If you click on a paragraph, you will see the original text that we modified, and you can toggle between the two versions.

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THE CORSET
AND
The crinoline.

PREFACE.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
The Corset:—Origin. Use amongst Savage Tribes and Ancient People. Slenderness of Waist esteemed in the East, Ceylon, Circassia, Crim Tartary, Hindustan, Persia, China, Egypt, Palestine	Pages 9 to 29
CHAPTER II.
The Corset according to Homer, Terentius. The Strophium of Rome, and the Mitra of Greece. The Peplus. A Roman Toilet, Bath, and Promenade. General Luxury. Cleopatra's Jewels. Tight-lacing on the Tiber	Pages 30 to 38
CHAPTER III.
Frankish Fashions. The Monks and the Corset. Corsets worn by Gentlemen as well as Ladies in the Thirteenth Century. The Kirtle. Small Waists in Scotland. Chaucer on Small Bodies. The Surcoat. Long Trains. Skirts. Snake-toed Shoes. High-heeled Slippers	Pages 41 to 59
CHAPTER IV.
Bonnets. Headdresses. Costumes in the time of Francis I. Pins in France and England. Masks in France. Puffed Sleeves. Bernaise Dress. Marie Stuart. Long Slender Waists. Henry III. of France "tight-laces." Austrian Joseph prohibits Stays. Catherine de Medici and Elizabeth of England. Severe form of Corset. Lawn Ruffs. Starching. Stuffed Hose. Venice Fashions. Elizabeth's False Hair. Stubs on the Ladies. James I. affects Fashion. Garters and Shoe-roses. Dagger and Rapier	Pages 60 to 91
CHAPTER V.
Louise de Lorraine. Marie de Medici. Distended Skirts. Hair Powder. Hair à l'enfant. Low Dresses. Louis XIV. High Heels. Slender Waists. Siamese Dress. Charles I. Patches. Elaborate Costumes. Puritan Modes. Tight-lacing and Strait-lacing under Cromwell. Augsburg Ladies	Pages 92 to 104
CHAPTER VI.
Louis XV. À la Watteau. Barbers. Fashions under Queen Anne. Diminutive Waists and Enormous Hoop. The Farthingale. The Guardian. Fashions in 1713. Low Dresses. Tight Stays. Short Skirts. A Lady's Maid's Accomplishments. Gay and Ben Jonson on the Bodice and Stays	Pages 109 to 123
CHAPTER VII.
Stays or Corset. Louis XVI. Dress in 1776. Severe Lacing. Hogarth. French Revolution. Short Waists. Long Trains. Buchan. Jumpers and Garibaldis. Figure-training. Back-boards and Stocks. Doctors on Stays. George III. Gentlemen's Stays. The Changes of Fashion. The term Hoop skirt not new. South Sea Islanders. Madame la Sante on Crinoline. Starving and Lacing. Anecdote. Wearing the Corset during sleep. American Belles. Illusion Waists. Medicus favours moderate tight-lacing. Ladies' Letters on tight-lacing	Pages 124 to 164
CHAPTER VIII.
The Austrian Empress. Viennese Waists. London small-sized Corsets. Correspondence of The Queen and the Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine. Lady Morton. Figure-training. Corsets for Young Girls. Early use of well-constructed Corsets. The Boarding-School and the Corset. Letters in praise of tight-lacing. Defence of the Crinoline and the Corset. The Venus de Medici. Fashionably-dressed Statue. Clumsy Figures. Letter from a Tight-lacer. A Young Baronet. A Family Man	Pages 165 to 186
CHAPTER IX.
No elegance without the Corset. Fashion of 1865. Short Waist and Train of 1867. Tight Corset and Short Waist. A form of French Corset. Proportions of Figure and Waist. The Point of the Waist. Older Writers on Stays. Denunciations against Small Waists and High Heels. Alarming Diseases through High Heels. Female Mortality. Corset Statistics. Modern and Ancient Corset	Pages 189 to 201
CHAPTER X.
Front-fastening Stays. Thomson's Corset. Stability of front-fastening Corset. De La Garde's Corset. Self-measurement. Viennese Redresseur Corset. Flimsy Corsets. Proper Materials. "Minet Back" Corset. Elastic Corsets. Narrow Bands Injurious. The Corset properly applied produces a graceful figure. The Farthingale Reviewed. Thomson's Zephyrina Crinoline. Costume of the Present Season. The claims of Nature. Similitude between the Tahitian Girl and Venetian Lady	Pages 202 to 224

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

		PAGE
1.	The Rise of the Corset	11
2.	Circassian Woman	15
3.	Egyptian woman in full skirt	18
4.	Persian Dance Girl	21
5.	Egyptian Woman in Tight Skirt	24
6.	Greek Mythology Goddess	32
7.	Roman Noblewoman (Reign of Elagabalus)	39
8.	The Fashion Fiend, from an Ancient Manuscript	43
9.	Princess Blanche, daughter of Edward III.	48
10.	Lady of Rank from the Thirteenth Century	51
11.	Lady of the Court of Queen Catherine de' Medici	55
12.	Full Court Dress as worn in France, 1515	58
13.	Fashionable Women in the Attire of 1380	61
14.	Modern Norman Headdress	64
15.	Lady of the Court of Charles VIII, 1500	67
16.	Lady of the Court of Maximilian of Germany and Francis of France	70
17.	Steel Corset Cover Worn During the Time of Catherine de Medici	71
18.	Steel Corset-Cover Worn During the Reign of Queen Elizabeth (Open)	72
19.	The Bernaise Headdress and Costume of Mary Stuart	74
20.	Steel Corset Cover Worn During the Reign of Queen Elizabeth (Closed)	76
21.	Henry III of France and Princess Margaret of Lorraine	77
22.	Lady of the Court of Queen Elizabeth	80
23.	A Stylish Venetian Woman, 1560	83
24.	Queen Elizabeth II	86
25.	Court Dress During Louis XIII's Childhood.	93
26.	Marie de' Medici	96
27.[8]	Elegant Costumes from the Era of Louis XIV.	99
28.	Siamese dress worn at the court of Louis XIV.	102
29.	Young English Lady of Fashion, 1653	105
30.	Costume worn during the reign of Louis XV.	108
31.	Costumes influenced by Watteau	111
32.	Crinoline in 1713	114
33.	Low Bodies and Shortened Crinoline	117
34.	Court Dress during the Reign of Louis XVI.	125
35.	Classic Costume from the French Revolutionary Era	128
36.	Fashion Icon, 1806	131
37.	Trendy Dress in 1824	139
38.	Fashionable Lady, 1827	142
39.	Fashion Icon, 1830	145
40.	Fashion Lady, 1837	148
41.	The Crinoline of a South Sea Islander	151
42.	Fashion of 1865	188
43.	Fashion in 1867	191
44.	Corset, serving as both Corset and Stomacher (Front)	197
45.	Corset, serving as both a Corset and a Stomacher (Back)	200
46.	Budget Stay, Secured	202
47.	Affordable Stay Available, Open	203
48.	The Corset That Fits Like a Glove (Thomson & Co.)	204
49.	Corset by Messrs. De La Garde, Paris (Home)	205
50.	Corset by Messrs. De La Garde, Paris (Back)	208
51.	The Vienna Corset Redresser (Weiss)	211
52.	Fashion from 1868	222
53.	The Zephyrina Skirt (Thomson & Co.)	223
54.	Tahitian Dancing Girl and Venetian Lady	224

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CHAPTER I.

The origin of the Corset—The Indian hunting-belt—Reduction of the figure by the ancient inhabitants of Polenqui—Use of the Corset by the natives of the Eastern Archipelago—Improvements in construction brought about by the advance of civilisation—Slenderness of waist esteemed a great beauty in the East—Earth-eating in Java—Figure-training in Ceylon—The beauties of Circassia, their slender waists and Corsets—Elegant princesses of Crim Tartary—Hindoo belles—Hindoo ideas of beauty—Elegance of figure highly esteemed by the Persians—Letter from a Chinese gentleman (Woo-tan-zhin) on slender waists—Researches amongst the antiquities of Egypt—Fashions of the Egyptian ladies—The Corset in use among the Israelitish ladies—The elegance of their costume, bridal dress, &c.—Scriptural references.

The origin of the corset—The Indian hunting belt—How the ancient people of Polenqui shrank their waists—Use of the corset by the natives of the Eastern Archipelago—Design improvements due to advancements in civilization—A slim waist is seen as a great beauty in the East—Earth-eating practices in Java—Figure training in Ceylon—The beauties of Circassia, known for their slim waists and corsets—Stylish princesses of Crimean Tartary—Hindu beauties—Hindu ideas of beauty—Figure elegance is highly valued by Persians—A letter from a Chinese gentleman (Woo-tan-zhin) discussing slender waists—Research on ancient Egyptian relics—Fashion among Egyptian women—The corset's use among Israelite women—The elegance of their clothing, bridal dresses, etc.—Scriptural references.

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CHAPTER II.

Homer the first ethnic writer who speaks of an article of dress allied to the Corset—The cestus or girdle of Venus—Terentius, the Roman dramatist, and his remarks on the practice of tight-lacing—The use of the strophium by the ladies of Rome, and the mitra of the Grecian belles—The peplus as worn by the ancients—Toilet of a Roman lady of fashion—Roman baths—Fashionable promenades of Ancient Rome—Boundless luxury and extravagance—Cleopatra and her jewels—The taper waists and tight-lacing of the ancient Roman ladies—Conquest of the Roman Empire.

Homer is the earliest known writer who mentions a type of clothing related to the corset—the cestus or girdle of Venus. Terentius, the Roman playwright, provides insights into the practice of tight-lacing. The women of Rome used the strophium, and the mitra was popular among Greek beauties. The peplus was worn by people in ancient times. We also see the style of a fashionable Roman woman, the Roman baths, and the trendy promenades of Ancient Rome. There was great luxury and extravagance, embodied by Cleopatra and her jewels. Ancient Roman women were renowned for their small waists and tight-lacing, all during the period of the conquest of the Roman Empire.

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CHAPTER III.

The ladies of Old France—Their fashions during the reign of King Pepin—Revival of the taste for small waists—Introduction of "cottes hardies"—Monkish satire on the Corset in England in the year 1043, curious MS. relating to—The small waists of the thirteenth century—The ancient poem of Launfal—The Lady Triamore, daughter of the King of the Fairies—Curious entry in the household register of Eleanor, Countess of Leicester, date 1265—Corsets worn by gentlemen at that period—The kirtle as worn in England—The penance of Jane Shore—Dress of Blanche, daughter of Edward III—Dunbar's Thistle and Rose—Admiration for small waists in Scotland in the olden time—Chaucer's writings—Small waists admired in his day—The use of the surcoat in England—Reckless hardihood of a determined tailor—The surcoat worn by Marie d'Anjou of France—Italian supremacy in matters of dress—The Medici, Este, and Visconti—Costume of an Italian duchess described—Freaks of fashion in France and Germany—Long trains—Laws to restrain the length of skirts—Snake-toed shoes give place to high-heeled slippers.

The women of Old France—Their fashion during King Pepin's reign—The return of small waists—Introduction of "cottes hardies"—Monkish jokes about corsets in England in 1043, an intriguing manuscript related to—The small waists of the thirteenth century—The ancient poem Launfal—Lady Triamore, daughter of the King of the Fairies—Interesting entry in the household records of Eleanor, Countess of Leicester, dated 1265—Corsets worn by men at that time—The kirtle as worn in England—The penance of Jane Shore—Blanche's outfit, daughter of Edward III—Dunbar's Thistle and Rose—Admiration for small waists in old Scotland—Chaucer's works—Small waists praised in his time—The use of the surcoat in England—Boldness of a determined tailor—The surcoat worn by Marie d'Anjou of France—Italian dominance in fashion—The Medici, Este, and Visconti—Description of an Italian duchess's outfit—Fashion trends in France and Germany—Long trains—Laws to limit skirt lengths—Snake-toed shoes replaced by high-heeled slippers.

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CHAPTER IV.

The bonnet à canon and sugarloaf headdress—Headdress of the women of Normandy at the present day—Odd dress of King Louis XI.—Return of Charles VIII. from Naples—A golden time for tailors and milliners—General change of fashion—Costumes of the time of Francis I. of France and Maximilian of Germany—General use of pins in France and England—Masks worn in France—Establishment of the empire of Fashion in France—The puffed or bouffant sleeves of the reign of Henry II.—The Bernaise dress—Costume of the unfortunate Marie Stuart—Rich dresses and long slender waists of the period—The tight-lacing of Henry III. of France—The Emperor Joseph of Austria, his edict forbidding the use of stays, and how the ladies regarded it—Queen Catherine de Medici and Queen Elizabeth of England—The severe form of Corsets worn in both France and England—The corps—Steel Corset covers of the period—Royal standard of fashionable slenderness—The lawn ruffs of Queen Bess—The art of starching—Voluminous nether-garments worn by the gentlemen of the period—Fashions of the ladies of Venice—Philip Stubs on the ruff—Queen Elizabeth's collection of false hair—Stubs furious at the fashions of ladies—King James and his fondness for dress and fashion—Restrictions and sumptuary laws regarding dress—Side-arms of the period.

The bonnet à canon and sugarloaf headdress, which are still worn by women in Normandy today, the unique clothing of King Louis XI, Charles VIII's return from Naples, a thriving time for tailors and milliners, the overall changes in fashion, outfits from the era of Francis I of France and Maximilian of Germany, the common use of pins in France and England, masks worn in France, the rise of the Fashion Empire in France, the puffed or bouffant sleeves from Henry II’s reign, the Bernaise dress, the wardrobe of the unfortunate Mary Stuart, the rich dresses and long, slender waists of the time, the tight-lacing trend during Henry III's reign in France, Emperor Joseph of Austria's decree against stays and the ladies' responses to it, Queen Catherine de Medici and Queen Elizabeth of England, the strict style of corsets in both France and England, the corps, the steel corset covers of that period, the royal standard for fashionable slimness, the lawn ruffs of Queen Bess, the art of starching, the voluminous trousers worn by men at that time, the fashions of the ladies of Venice, Philip Stubbes' views on the ruff, Queen Elizabeth's collection of artificial hair, Stubbes’ disapproval of women's fashions, King James’ passion for clothing and style, regulations and sumptuary laws concerning dress, and the side-arms of that era.

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CHAPTER V.

Strange freaks of Louise de Lorraine—One of her adventures—Her dress at a royal fête—Marie de Medici—The distended dresses of her time—Hair-powder—Costume à la enfant—Escapade of the young Louis—Low dresses of the period—The court of Louis XIV. of France—High heels, slender waists, and fancy costumes—The Siamese dress—Charles I. of England—Patches introduced—Elaborate costumes of the period—Puritanism, its effect on the fashions—Fashions in Cromwell's time, and the general prevalence of the practice of tight-lacing—The ladies of Augsburg described by Hoechstetterus.

Strange quirks of Louise de Lorraine—One of her adventures—Her outfit at a royal celebration—Marie de Medici—The extravagant dresses of her time—Hair powder—Style "à la enfant"—The escapade of young Louis—Low-cut dresses of the era—The court of Louis XIV of France—High heels, slim waists, and fancy outfits—The Siamese dress—Charles I of England—Patches introduced—Elaborate outfits from the time—The influence of Puritanism on fashion—Fashions during Cromwell's era and the common practice of tight-lacing—The ladies of Augsburg described by Hoechstetterus.

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CHAPTER VI.

Fashion during the reign of Louis XV.—Costumes à la Watteau—An army of barbers—The fashions of England during the reign of Queen Anne—The diminutive waist and enormous hoop of her day—The farthingale: letters in the Guardian protesting against its use—Fashion in 1713—Low dresses, tight stays, and short skirts: letters relating to—Correspondence touching the fashions of that period from the Guardian—Accomplishments of a lady's-maid—Writings of Gay and Ben Jonson—Their remarks on the "bodice" and "stays."

Fashion during Louis XV's reign—Watteau-style costumes—An army of barbers—Fashion in England during Queen Anne's reign—The small waist and large hoop skirts of her time—The farthingale: letters in the Guardian objecting to it—Fashion in 1713—Low-cut dresses, tight corsets, and short skirts: related letters—Correspondence about the fashion of that era from the Guardian—Skills of a lady's maid—Writings by Gay and Ben Jonson—Their thoughts on the "bodice" and "stays."

"Mr. Guardian,—Your predecessor, the Spectator, endeavoured, but in vain, to improve the charms of the fair sex by exposing their dress whenever it launched into extremities. Amongst the rest the great petticoat came under his consideration, but in contradiction to whatever he has said, they still resolutely persist in this fashion. The form of their bottom is not, I confess, altogether the same, for whereas before it was one of an orbicular make, they now look as if they were pressed so that they seem to deny access to any part but the middle. Many are the inconveniences that accrue to her majesty's loving subjects from the said petticoats, as hurting men's shins, sweeping down the ware of industrious females in the street, &c. I saw a young lady fall down the other day, and, believe me, sir, she very much resembled an overturned bell without a clapper. Many other disasters I could tell you of that befall themselves as well as others by means of this unwieldy garment. I wish, Mr. Guardian, you would join with me in showing your dislike of such a monstrous fashion, and I hope, when the ladies see this, the opinion of two of the wisest men in England, they will be convinced of their folly.

"Mr. Guardian,—Your predecessor, the Spectator, tried and didn’t succeed in improving women's fashion by criticizing their extreme choices. One example is the grand petticoat, and despite his comments, women continue to cling to this style. However, the shape isn’t quite the same anymore; it used to be more rounded, but now it seems flattened to the point where only the middle sticks out. There are many issues that loyal subjects face due to these petticoats, like hurting men's shins or knocking over things from hardworking women on the street, among other things. I saw a young lady trip the other day, and honestly, sir, she looked just like a fallen bell without a clapper. I could recount many other accidents that happen to themselves and others because of this cumbersome garment. I wish, Mr. Guardian, that you would join me in criticizing this absurd fashion, and I hope that when the ladies read this, they’ll take to heart the opinions of two of the wisest men in England and recognize their mistake."

"Editorial letter.

"Editorial letter.

"Guardian, July 16, 1713.

"Guardian, July 16, 1713.

"I am very well pleased with this approbation of my good sisters. I must confess I have always looked on the 'tucker' to be the decus et tutamen, the ornament and defence of the female neck. My good old lady, the Lady Lizard, condemned this fashion from the beginning, and has observed to me, with some concern, that her sex at the same time they are letting down their stays are tucking up their petticoats, which grow shorter and shorter every day. The leg discovers itself in proportion with the neck, but I may possibly take another occasion of handling this extremity, it being my design to keep a watchful eye over every part of the female sex, and to regulate them from head to foot. In the meantime I shall fill up my paper with a letter which comes to me from another of my obliged correspondents."

"I’m really pleased with my sisters’ approval. I have to admit, I’ve always viewed the 'tucker' as the decus et tutamen, the adornment and safeguard of the female neck. My good friend, Lady Lizard, has disapproved of this trend from the beginning, and she’s expressed to me, with some concern, that while women are loosening their corsets, they’re also raising their skirts, which seem to get shorter every day. The leg is becoming as visible as the neck, but I may find another chance to discuss this issue, as I plan to pay close attention to all aspects of the female form and advise them from head to toe. In the meantime, I’ll fill my paper with a letter I received from another one of my appreciative correspondents."

"Wednesday, August 12, 1713.

"Wednesday, August 12, 1713.

"Notwithstanding your grave advice to the fair sex not to lay the beauties of their necks so open, I find they mind you so little that we[116] young men are as much in danger as ever. Yesterday, about seven in the evening, I took a walk with a gentleman, just come to town, in a public walk. We had not walked above two rounds when the spark on a sudden pretended weariness, and as I importuned him to stay longer he turned short, and, pointing out a celebrated beauty, 'What,' said he, 'do you think I am made of, that I could bear the sight of such snowy beauties? She is intolerably handsome.' Upon this we parted, and I resolved to take a little more air in the garden, yet avoid the danger, by casting my eyes downwards; but, to my unspeakable surprise, discovered in the same fair creature the finest ankle and prettiest foot that ever fancy imagined. If the petticoats as well as the stays thus diminish, what shall we do, dear Mentor? It is neither safe to look at the head nor the feet of the charmer. Whither shall we direct our eyes? I need not trouble you with my description of her, but I beg you would consider that your wards are frail and mortal.

"Despite your serious warnings to women about not showing their necks so openly, it seems they hardly listen to you, leaving us[116] young men at risk. Yesterday, around seven in the evening, I went for a walk with a gentleman who had just arrived in town, in a public park. We had barely done two laps when he suddenly acted tired. As I tried to convince him to stay longer, he abruptly turned and pointed out a well-known beauty, saying, 'What do you think I am, made of stone? How could I handle looking at such stunning women? She's unbelievably beautiful.' After that, we separated, and I decided to get a bit more fresh air in the garden while keeping my eyes low to avoid temptation. But to my complete shock, I noticed that this same gorgeous woman had the most exquisite ankle and the prettiest foot I could ever imagine. If skirts and stays keep getting shorter like this, what are we to do, dear Mentor? It’s unsafe to look at either the face or the feet of such a charmer. Where are we meant to look? I won’t go into more detail about her, but please remember that your protégés are delicate and mortal."

"Your most obedient servant,

"Your most obedient servant,

"Epernectises."

"Epernectises."

"Guardian, Friday, May 8th, 1713.

"Guardian, Friday, May 8th, 1713.

"When I walk the streets I use the foregoing natural maxim (viz., that he is the true possessor of a thing who enjoys it, and not he that owns it without the enjoyment of it) to convince myself that I have a[119] property in the gay part of all the gilt chariots that I meet, which I regard as amusements designed to delight the eye and the imagination of those kind people who sit in them gaily attired only to please me. I have a real and they only an imaginary pleasure from their exterior embellishments. Upon the same principle I have discovered that I am the natural proprietor of all the diamond necklaces, the crosses and stars, brocades and embroidered cloths which I see at a play or birthnight, as giving more natural delight to the spectator than to those who wear them; and I look on the beaux and ladies as so many paroquets in an aviary, or tulips in a garden, designed purely for my diversion. A gallery of pictures, a cabinet, or library that I have free access to, I think my own. In a word, all that I desire is the use of things, let who will have the keeping of them. By which maxim I am growing one of the richest men in Great Britain, with this difference, that I am not a prey to my own cares or the envy of others."

"When I walk through the streets, I remind myself of this simple truth: the true owner of something is the person who enjoys it, not just the one who holds it without any joy. This belief allows me to feel a[119] connection to all the fancy gilded carriages I see, which I view as entertainment designed to delight the eyes and imagination of the well-dressed people inside, who dress up just to please me. I genuinely enjoy their beautiful appearances, while they only get a momentary pleasure from wearing them. Following this same idea, I realize that I naturally own all the diamond necklaces, crosses and stars, brocades, and embroidered fabrics I see at a play or birthday celebration, as they bring more joy to the viewers than to the wearers. I see fashionable men and women as colorful birds in a cage or tulips in a garden, meant only for my enjoyment. Any collection of artwork, a cabinet, or a library that I can access feels like it belongs to me. In short, all I want is to use these things, regardless of who actually owns them. By following this principle, I'm becoming one of the wealthiest people in Great Britain, with the only difference being that I’m free from my own worries or the jealousy of others."

"To the Editor of the Guardian.

"To the Editor of the Guardian.

"Tuesday, May 19th, 1713.

"Tuesday, May 19th, 1713.

"Sir,—I am a lady of birth and fortune, but never knew till last Thursday that the splendour of my equipage was so beneficial to my country. I will not deny that I have dressed for some years out of the pride of my heart, but am very glad that you have so far settled my conscience in that particular that now I can look upon my vanities as so many virtues, since I am satisfied that my person and garb give pleasure to my fellow-creatures. I shall not think the three hours' business I usually devote to my toilette below the dignity of a rational soul. I am content to suffer great torment from my stays that my shape may[120] appear graceful to the eyes of others, and often mortify myself with fasting rather than my fatness should give distaste to any man in England. I am making up a rich brocade for the benefit of mankind, and design in a little time to treat the town with a thousand pounds' worth of jewellery. I have ordered my chariot to be newly painted for your use and the world's, and have prevailed upon my husband to present you with a pair of Flanders mares, by driving them every evening round the ring. Gay pendants for my ears, a costly cross for my neck, a diamond of the best water for my finger shall be purchased, at any rate, to enrich you, and I am resolved to be a patriot in every limb. My husband will not scruple to oblige me in these trifles, since I have persuaded him, from your scheme, that pin-money is only so much money set for charitable uses. You see, sir, how expensive you are to me, and I hope you will esteem me accordingly, especially when I assure you that I am, as far as you can see me,

"Sir,—I come from a wealthy family, but I only realized last Thursday that the elegance of my carriage is somehow benefiting my country. I won’t deny that I’ve dressed out of pride for years, but I’m really glad you’ve eased my conscience about it—now I can see my vanity as a virtue because I believe my appearance brings joy to others. I won’t consider the three hours I usually spend on my looks beneath a rational person’s dignity. I’m willing to endure discomfort from my corset to appear graceful to those around me, and I even starve myself sometimes to make sure my figure doesn’t offend anyone in England. I’m working on a luxurious brocade to benefit humanity and plan to treat the town with a thousand pounds’ worth of jewelry soon. I’ve had my chariot freshly painted for you and everyone else, and I’ve convinced my husband to give you a pair of Flanders mares, driving them around every evening. I’ll definitely buy fancy earrings, an expensive cross for my neck, and a brilliant diamond for my finger to enrich you, as I’m determined to be a patriot in every way. My husband won’t mind indulging me in these little things since I’ve convinced him, based on your idea, that pin-money is just money set aside for charitable causes. You see, sir, how costly this is for me, and I hope you will appreciate me for it, especially when I assure you that I am, as far as you can see me,"

"Entirely yours,

"Entirely yours,

"Cleora."

"Cleora."

"Thursday, June 18th, 1713.

"Thursday, June 18th, 1713.

"Sir,—don't know at what nice point you fix the bloom of a young lady, but I am one who can just look back on fifteen. My father dying three years ago left me under the care and direction of my mother, with a fortune not profusely great, yet such as might demand a very handsome settlement if ever proposals of marriage should be offered. My mother, after the usual time of retired mourning was over, was so affectionately indulgent to me as to take me along with her in all her visits, but still, not thinking she gratified my youth enough, permitted[121] me further to go with my relatives to all the publick cheerful but innocent entertainments, where she was too reserved to appear herself. The two first years of my teens were easy, gay, and delightful; every one caressed me, the old ladies told me how finely I grew, and the young ones were proud of my company; but when the third year had a little advanced, my relations used to tell my mother that pretty Miss Clarey was shot up into a woman. The gentlemen began now not to let their eyes glance over me, and in most places I found myself distinguished, but observed the more I grew into the esteem of their sex, the more I lost the favour of my own; some of those whom I had been familiar with grew cold and indifferent; others mistook by design my meaning, made me speak what I never thought, and so, by degrees, took occasion to break off acquaintance. There were several little insignificant reflections cast upon me, as being a lady of a great many acquaintances, and such like, which I seemed not to take notice of. But my mother coming home about a week ago, told me there was a scandal spread about town by my enemies that would at once ruin me for ever for a beauty. I earnestly intreated her to know it; she refused me, but yesterday it discovered itself. Being in an assembly of gentlemen and ladies, one of the gentlemen, who had been very facetious to several of the ladies, at last turned to me. 'And as for you, madam. Prior has already given us your character:—

Sir,—I’m not sure what you think is the peak of a young lady's charm, but I just turned fifteen. My father passed away three years ago, leaving me in my mother's care, with a fortune that's not very large, but enough to attract decent marriage proposals. After the typical mourning period, my mother was so devoted to me that she took me with her on all her visits, but thinking she didn’t indulge my youth enough, she let me go with my relatives to public, cheerful, yet innocent events where she chose not to attend. The first two years of my teens were enjoyable, joyful, and wonderful; everyone spoiled me, the older ladies praised my growth, and the younger ones appreciated my company. However, as I entered my third year, my relatives started telling my mother that pretty Miss Clarey had become a woman. The men began to notice me, and I found myself being singled out in many places, but I realized that as I gained favor with them, I lost favor with girls my own age; some of my former friends turned cold and indifferent, while others deliberately misunderstood me, making me say things I didn’t mean, which gradually led to the end of our friendships. I dealt with several petty comments about being a lady with many acquaintances and such, which I tried to brush off. But about a week ago, my mother came home and told me that a rumor was spreading in town, spread by those who disliked me, that could damage my reputation as a beauty. I begged her to tell me, but she refused, and then yesterday it all came to light. While at a gathering of gentlemen and ladies, a man, who had been quite entertaining with several of the ladies, finally turned to me. 'And as for you, madam. Prior has already given us your character:—

"'That air and harmony of shape express,

Fine by degrees and beautifully less.'

"I perceived immediately a malignant smile display itself in the countenance of some of the ladies, which they seconded with a scornful flutter of the fan, till one of them, unable any longer to contain herself, asked the gentleman if he did not remember what Congreve said about Aurelia, for she thought it mighty pretty. He made no answer, but instantly repeated the verses—

"I immediately noticed a sly smile on the faces of some of the ladies, which they highlighted with mocking flicks of their fans, until one of them, unable to hold back any longer, asked the gentleman if he remembered what Congreve said about Aurelia, because she thought it was really lovely. He didn’t respond, but quickly recited the verses—

[122]

[122]

"'The Mulcibers who in the Minories sweat,

And massive bars on stubborn anvils beat,

Deformed themselves, yet forge those stays of steel,

Which arm Aurelia with a shape to kill.'

"This was no sooner over but it was easily discernable what an ill-natured satisfaction most of the company took, and the more pleasure they showed by dwelling upon the two last lines, the more they increased my trouble and confusion. And now, sir, after this tedious account, what would you advise me to? Is there no way to be cleared of these malicious calumnies? What is beauty worth that makes the possessed thus unhappy? Why was Nature so lavish of her gifts to me as to make her kindness prove a cruelty? They tell me my shape is delicate, my eyes sparkling, my lips I know not what, my cheeks, forsooth, adorned with a just mixture of the rose and lillie; but I wish this face was barely not disagreeable, this voice harsh and unharmonious, these limbs only not deformed, and then perhaps I might live easie and unmolested, and neither raise love and admiration in the men, nor scandal and hatred in the women.

"As soon as this was over, it was obvious how much pleasure most of the company took in being cruel, and the more they focused on the last two lines, the more they added to my frustration and confusion. So, sir, after this long story, what do you suggest I do? Is there any way to clear myself of these spiteful rumors? What good is beauty if it makes the one who has it so unhappy? Why was Nature so generous with her gifts to me only for her kindness to feel like a curse? They tell me my figure is delicate, my eyes sparkle, my lips are lovely, and my cheeks are supposedly a perfect mix of rose and lily; but I wish this face was at least not unattractive, this voice rough and grating, these limbs simply not misshapen, and then maybe I could live easily and without trouble, not stirring love and admiration in men, nor scandal and hatred in women."

"Your very humble servant,

"Your very humble servant,

"Clarina."

"Clarina."

"Editor's Reply to Letter of Thursday, June 18th, 1713.

Editor's Reply to Letter of Thursday, June 18th, 1713.

"The best answer I can make my fair correspondent is, that she ought to comfort herself with this consideration, that those who talk thus of her know it is false, but wish to make others believe it is true. 'Tis not they think you deformed, but are vexed that they themselves were not so nicely framed. If you will take an old man's advice, laugh and not be concerned at them; they have attained what they endeavoured if they make you uneasie, for it is envy that has made them. I would not have you with your shape one fiftieth part of an inch disproportioned, nor desire your face might be impoverished with the ruin of half a feature, though numbers of remaining beauties might make the loss[123] insensible; but take courage, go into the brightest assemblies, and the world will quickly confess it to be scandal. Thus Plato, hearing it was asserted by some persons that he was a very bad man—'I shall take care,' said he, 'to live so that nobody will believe them.'"

"The best advice I can give to my dear correspondent is to take comfort in knowing that those who speak poorly of her know it's not true but want others to believe it. They don’t genuinely think you’re unattractive; they’re just frustrated that they don’t look as good. If you take the advice of an old man, just laugh it off and don’t let them get to you; they’ve succeeded if they can make you uncomfortable because it’s envy that drives them. I wouldn’t want you to feel even a little bit insecure, nor would I want your face to lose even a small feature, even though the many other beautiful qualities might make that loss less noticeable; but be brave, go out to the brightest events, and the world will soon see it as scandalous. Just like Plato, when he heard some people calling him a terrible man—he said, 'I’ll make sure to live in a way that proves them wrong.'

---

CHAPTER VII.

General use of the word "stays" after 1600 in England—Costume of the court of Louis XVI.—Dress in 1776—The formidable stays and severe constriction then had recourse to—The stays drawn by Hogarth—Dress during the French revolutionary period—Short waists and long trains—Writings of Buchan—Jumpers and "Garibaldis"—Return to the old practice of tight-lacing—Training of figures: backboards and stocks—Medical evidence in favour of stays—Fashion in the reign of George III.—Stays worn habitually by gentlemen—General use of Corsets for boys on the Continent—The officers of Gustavus Adolphus—The use of the Corset for youths: a letter from a gentleman on the subject of—Evidence regarding the wearing of Corsets by gentlemen of the present day—Remarks on the changes of fashion—The term "Crinoline" not new—Crinoline among the South Sea Islanders—Remarks of Madame La Sante on Crinoline and slender waists—Abstinence from food as an assistance to the Corset—Anecdote from the Traditions of Edinburgh—The custom of wearing Corsets during sleep, its growing prevalence in schools and private families: letters relating to—The belles of the United States and their "illusion waists"—Medical evidence in favour of moderately tight lacing—Letters from ladies who have been subjected to tight-lacing.

The general use of the word "stays" in England after 1600—Fashion at the court of Louis XVI—Clothing styles in 1776—The constricting stays that were often worn—Stays shown in Hogarth's illustrations—Fashion during the French Revolutionary period—Short waists and long trains—Writings by Buchan—Jumpers and "Garibaldis"—A return to the old trend of tight-lacing—Training figures with backboards and stocks—Medical evidence supporting the use of stays—Fashion trends during the reign of George III—Stays commonly worn by men—The general use of corsets for boys in Europe—The officers of Gustavus Adolphus—The use of corsets by young men: a letter from a gentleman discussing it—Evidence about men wearing corsets today—Observations on changes in fashion—The term "crinoline" is not new—Crinoline among the South Sea Islanders—Remarks by Madame La Sante on crinoline and slim waists—Food abstinence as a way to help with corsetry—Anecdote from the Traditions of Edinburgh—The growing trend of wearing corsets while sleeping, increasingly common in schools and private homes: related letters—Fashionable women in the United States and their "illusion waists"—Medical evidence supporting moderately tight lacing—Letters from women who have experienced tight-lacing.

"Madam,—May I be permitted for once to ask admission to your 'Conversazione,' and to plead as excuse for my intrusion that I am really anxious to indorse your fair correspondent's (Belle's) assertion that it is those who know nothing practically of the corset who are most vociferous in condemning it? Strong-minded women who have never worn a pair of stays, and gentlemen blinded by hastily-formed prejudice, alike anathematise an article of dress of the good qualities of which they are utterly ignorant, and which consequently they cannot appreciate. On a subject of so much importance as regards comfort (to say nothing of the question of elegance, scarcely less important on a point of feminine costume), no amount of theory will ever weigh very heavily when opposed to practical experience.

"Madam,—May I please be allowed to join your 'Conversazione'? I want to support your fair correspondent's (Belle's) argument that those who know little about corsets often criticize them the loudest. Strong-minded women who have never worn a corset, along with men quick to judge, both condemn a garment whose benefits they don't understand and therefore can't appreciate. In matters as important as comfort (not to mention the equally vital aspect of elegance in women's fashion), no theory can compete with actual experience."

"The proof of the pudding is a proverb too true not to be acted on in such a case. To put the matter to actual test, can any of the opponents of the corset honestly state that they have given up stays after having fairly tried them, except in compliance with the persuasions or commands of friends or medical advisers, who seek in the much-abused corset a convenient first cause for an ailment that baffles their skill? 'The Young Lady Herself' (a former correspondent) does not complain of either illness or pain, even after the first few months; while, on the other hand, Staylace, Nora, and Belle bring ample testimony, both of themselves and their schoolfellows, as to the comfort and pleasure of tight-lacing. To carry out my first statement as to the truth of Belle's remark, those of the opposite[137] sex who, either from choice or necessity, have adopted this article of attire, are unanimous in its praise; while even among an assemblage of opponents a young lady's elegant figure is universally admired while the cause is denounced. From personal experience, I beg to express a decided and unqualified approval of corsets. I was early sent to school in Austria, where lacing is not considered ridiculous in a gentleman as in England, and I objected in a thoroughly English way when the doctor's wife required me to be laced. I was not allowed any choice, however. A sturdy mädchen was stoically deaf to my remonstrances, and speedily laced me up tightly in a fashionable Viennese corset. 1 presume my impressions were not very different from those of your lady correspondents. I felt ill at ease and awkward, and the daily lacing tighter and tighter produced inconvenience and absolute pain. In a few months, however, I was as anxious as any of my ten or twelve companions to have my corsets laced as tightly as a pair of strong arms could draw them. It is from no feeling of vanity that I have ever since continued to wear them, for, not caring to incur ridicule, I take good care that my dress shall not betray me, but I am practically convinced of the comfort and pleasantness of tight-lacing, and thoroughly agree with Staylace that the sensation of being tightly laced in an elegant, well-made, tightly-fitting pair of corsets is superb. There is no other word for it. I have dared this avowal because I am thoroughly ashamed of the idle nonsense that is being constantly uttered on this subject in England. The terrors of hysteria, neuralgia, and, above all, consumption, are fearlessly promised to our fair sisters if they dare to disregard preconceived opinions, while, on the other hand, some medical men are beginning slowly to admit that they cannot conscientiously support the extravagant assertions of former days. 'Stay torture,' 'whalebone vices,' and 'corset screws' are very terrible and horrifying things upon paper, but when translated into coutil or satin they wear a different appearance in the eyes of those most competent to give an opinion. That much perfectly unnecessary dis[138]comfort and inconvenience is incurred by the purchasers of ready-made corsets is doubtless true. The waist measure being right, the chest, where undue constriction will naturally produce evil effects, is very generally left to chance. If, then, the wearer suffers, who is to blame but herself?

"The saying 'the proof of the pudding is in the eating' is too true to overlook here. To genuinely assess the situation, can any of the corset's critics honestly say they've given them up after truly trying them—except under pressure from friends or doctors, who often use corsets as a scapegoat for issues they can't address? 'The Young Lady Herself' (a former correspondent) claims she has no illness or pain, even after the first few months; on the other hand, Staylace, Nora, and Belle provide plenty of evidence, both from themselves and their peers, about the comfort and enjoyment of tight-lacing. To support my previous point regarding Belle’s observation, those of the opposite sex who have chosen or needed to wear these garments consistently praise them; even within criticism, a young lady's elegant figure is admired while the practice is condemned. Personally, I want to express my clear and strong endorsement of corsets. I was sent to school in Austria at a young age, where lacing isn’t seen as ridiculous for men as it is in England, and I protested in a very English way when the doctor's wife insisted on lacing me. However, I had no say in the matter. A strong mädchen ignored my objections and swiftly laced me up tightly in a stylish Viennese corset. I can relate to your lady correspondents' experiences. Initially, I felt awkward and clumsy, and the daily tightening caused me discomfort and even pain. Yet, within a few months, I was just as eager as any of my classmates to have my corsets laced as tightly as possible. It's not vanity that keeps me wearing them; not wanting to face mockery, I ensure my clothing doesn’t reveal my choice, but I'm genuinely convinced of the comfort and enjoyment of tight-lacing, and I completely agree with Staylace that the feeling of being snugly laced in a well-made, fitted pair of corsets is amazing. There's really no other way to put it. I'm bold in saying this because I feel very embarrassed by the silly myths constantly spread about this topic in England. Threats of hysteria, neuralgia, and especially consumption are exaggeratedly promised to our lovely women if they dare to challenge outdated views, while, on the flip side, some doctors are slowly beginning to admit that they can't sincerely support the extreme claims of the past. 'Stay torture', 'whalebone vices', and 'corset screws' might sound scary in writing, but when they’re made of coutil or satin, they look much different to those who are most qualified to judge. It's true that many unnecessary discomforts arise from purchasing ready-made corsets. If the waist size is right, the chest area, where too much tightness can cause issues, is often left to chance. So, if the wearer suffers, who can be blamed but herself?"

"The remark echoed by nearly all your correspondents, that ladies have the remedy in their own hands by having their stays made to measure, is too self-evident for me to wish to enlarge upon it; but I do wish to assert and insist that, if a corset allows sufficient room in the chest, the waist may be laced as tightly as the wearer desires without fear of evil consequences; and, further, that the ladies themselves who have given tight-lacing a fair trial, and myself and schoolfellows converted against our will, are the only jury entitled to pronounce authoritatively on the subject, and that the comfortable support and enjoyment afforded by a well-laced corset quite overbalances the theoretical evils that are so confidently prophesied by outsiders.

"The remark made by nearly all your correspondents—that women can solve the problem themselves by getting custom-fitted corsets—is too obvious for me to expand on; however, I want to stress that if a corset allows enough space in the chest, the waist can be laced as tightly as the wearer wishes without fear of harmful effects. Moreover, the women who have genuinely tried tight-lacing, along with myself and classmates who were initially hesitant, are the only ones qualified to speak authoritatively on this topic. The comfortable support and satisfaction offered by a well-fitted corset far outweigh the theoretical problems outsiders confidently predict."

"Walter."

"Walter."

"As several of your correspondents have remarked, the personal experience of those who have for a number of years worn tight-fitting corsets can alone enable a clear and fair judgment to be pronounced upon their use. Happening to have had what I believe you will admit to be an unusual experience of tight-lacing, I trust you will allow me to tell the story of my younger days. Owing to the absence of my parents in India, I was allowed to attain the age of fourteen before any care was bestowed upon my figure; but their return home fortunately saved me from growing into a clumsy, inelegant girl; for my mamma was so shocked at my appearance that she took the unusual plan of making me sleep in my corset. For the first few weeks I occasionally felt considerable discomfort, owing, in a great measure, to not having worn stays before, and also to their extreme tightness and stiffness. Yet, though I was never allowed to slacken them before retiring to rest, they did not in the least interfere with my sleep, nor produce any ill effects whatever. I may mention that my mamma, fearing that, at so late an age, I should have great difficulty in securing a presentable figure, considered ordinary means insufficient, and consequently had my corsets filled with whalebone and furnished with shoulder-straps, to cure the habit of stooping which[150] I had contracted. The busk, which was nearly inflexible, was not front-fastening, and the lace being secured in a hard knot behind and at the top, effectually prevented any attempt on my part to unloose my stays. Though I have read lately of this plan having been tried with advantage, I believe it is as yet an unusual one, and as the testimony of one who has undergone it without the least injury to health cannot fail to be of value in proving that the much less severe system usually adopted must be even less likely to do harm, I am sure you will do me and your numerous readers the favour of inserting this letter in your most entertaining and valuable magazine. I am delighted to see the friends of the corset muster so strong at the 'Englishwoman's Conversazione.' What is most required, however, are the personal experiences of the ladies themselves, and not mere treatises on tight-lacing by those who, like your correspondent Brisbane, have never tried it.

"As several of your writers have pointed out, only the personal experiences of those who have worn tight-fitting corsets for many years can lead to an accurate and fair evaluation of their use. Since I’ve had what I believe you would agree is a unique experience with tight-lacing, I’m hoping you'll allow me to share my story from my younger days. Because my parents were in India, I reached the age of fourteen before anyone noticed my figure; fortunately, their return home kept me from becoming a clumsy, unattractive girl. My mom was so shocked by how I looked that she took the unusual step of making me sleep in my corset. At first, it was quite uncomfortable, mainly because I had never worn stays before and they were so tight and stiff. However, even though I was never allowed to loosen them before bed, they didn’t interfere with my sleep or cause any harm at all. I should mention that my mom, worried I would struggle to achieve a decent figure at this age, felt regular methods weren’t enough. So, she had my corsets reinforced with whalebone and added shoulder straps to fix the slouch I had developed. The busk was nearly inflexible and didn’t have a front fastening, and with the lace tightly secured in a knot at the back and top, I couldn’t attempt to loosen my stays. Though I’ve recently read that this method has been used successfully, I believe it’s still uncommon. Since my experience, having gone through it without any health problems, should help demonstrate that the milder methods usually used are even less likely to cause harm, I trust you’ll do me and your many readers the favor of including this letter in your entertaining and valuable magazine. I’m excited to see corset supporters gathering so passionately at the 'Englishwoman's Conversazione.' What’s really needed, though, are the personal experiences of the ladies themselves, not just essays on tight-lacing from those like your correspondent Brisbane, who have never tried it."

"Mignonette."

"Mignonette."

"My attention has just been directed to an interesting and important discussion in your magazine on the subject of corsets, and I have been urged as a medical man to give my opinion regarding them. Under these circumstances I trust you will allow me to attend the 'Englishwoman's Conversazione' for once, as medical men are supposed to be the great opponents of the corset. It is no doubt true that those medical men who studied for their profession some thirty or forty years ago are still prejudiced against this elegant article of female dress, for stays were very different things even then to what they are now. The medical works, too, which they studied were written years before, and spoke against the buckram and iron stays of the last century. The name 'stays,' however, being still used at the present time, the same odium still attaches to them in the minds of physicians of the old school. But the rising generation of doctors are free from these prejudices, and fairly judge the light and elegant corsets of the present day on their own merits. In short, it is now generally admitted, and I, for one, freely allow, that moderate compression of the waist by well-made corsets is far from being injurious. It is really absurdly illogical for the opponents of the corset to bring forward quotations from medical writers of the last century, for the animadversions of Soemmering are still quoted. Let us, however, merely look at facts as they at present stand; statistics prove that there are several thousand more women than men in the United Kingdom. A statement in the Registrar-General's Report of a few years since has been brought forward to prove that corsets produce an enormous mortality from consumption, but these would-be benefactors of the fair sex omit to state how many males die from that disease. If there be any preponderance of deaths among women from consumption, the cause may easily be found in the low dress, the thin shoes, and the[155] sedentary occupations in close rooms, without attributing the blame to the corset. Dr. Walshe, in his well-known work on diseases of the lungs, distinctly asserts that corsets cannot be accused of causing consumption. With regard to spinal curvature, a disease which has been connected by some writers with the use of stays, an eminent French physician, speaking of corsets, says—'They cannot be charged with causing deviations of the vertebral column.' Let us, then, hear no more nonsense about the terrible consequences of wearing corsets, at all events till the ladies return to the buckram and iron of our great-grandmothers. Your fair readers may rest assured that what is said against stays at the present day is merely the lingering echo of prejudice, and is quite inapplicable now-a-days to the light and elegant production of the scientific corsetière. As a medical man (and not one of the old school) I feel perfectly justified in saying that ladies who are content with a moderate application of the corset may secure that most elegant female charm, a slender waist", without fear of injury to health.

"I recently came across an interesting and important discussion in your magazine about corsets, and as a medical professional, I felt compelled to share my thoughts on the subject. Given the circumstances, I hope you’ll allow me to attend the 'Englishwoman's Conversazione' this time, as medical professionals are often seen as the primary critics of corsets. Many doctors trained thirty or forty years ago still hold biases against this fashionable item of women's clothing, since corsets from their training days were very different from today's styles. The medical texts they learned from, which were written quite some time ago, criticized the rigid and uncomfortable stays of the past century. However, because the term 'stays' is still used today, those same negative views remain in the minds of older physicians. Fortunately, the newer generation of doctors doesn’t share these biases and evaluates today’s light and elegant corsets on their own merits. In short, it is now widely accepted—and I agree—that moderate waist compression from well-made corsets is not harmful. It’s quite unreasonable for critics of corsets to reference medical literature from the last century, especially individuals like Soemmering, whose views are still being cited. Let's focus on the facts; statistics reveal that there are thousands more women than men in the United Kingdom. A report from the Registrar-General a few years ago claimed that corsets contribute to a high mortality rate from tuberculosis, but these so-called advocates for women neglect to mention how many men die from the disease. If there is any difference in tuberculosis death rates among women, it can be linked to low-cut dresses, thin shoes, and sedentary jobs in cramped spaces—not to corsets. Dr. Walshe, in his well-known book on lung diseases, clearly states that corsets cannot be blamed for causing tuberculosis. As for spinal curvature, which some writers associate with corset use, a respected French physician asserts—'They cannot be blamed for misalignments of the spine.' So let's put an end to the misguided claims about the harmful effects of wearing corsets, at least until women start wearing the stiff and heavy designs of our great-grandmothers again. Your female readers can be assured that the arguments against corsets today are merely remnants of outdated prejudice and don't apply to the light and elegant designs produced by the modern corsetière. As a medical professional (and not one from the old school), I feel entirely justified in saying that women who wear corsets moderately can achieve that most elegant feminine quality, a slender waist, without risking their health."

"Medicus."

"Medicus."

"Madam,—As I have for a long time been a constant reader of the Lady's Journal, I venture to ask you if you, or any of your valuable correspondents, will kindly tell me if it is true that small waists are again coming into fashion generally? I am aware that they cannot be said to have gone out of fashion altogether, for one often sees very slender figures; but I think during the last few years they have been less thought of than formerly. I have heard, however, from several sources, and by the public prints, that they are again to be La Mode. Now I fortunately possess a figure which will, I hope, satisfy the demand of[156] fashion in this respect. What is the smallest-sized waist that one can have? Mine is sixteen and a-half inches, and, I have heard, is considered small. I do not believe what is said against the corset, though I admit that if a girl is an invalid, or has a very tender constitution, too sudden a reduction of the waist may be injurious. With a waist which is, I believe, considered small, I can truly say I have good health. If all that was said against the corset were true, how is it so many ladies live to an advanced age? A friend of mine has lately died at the age of eighty-six, who has frequently told me anecdotes of how in her young days she was laced cruelly tight, and at the age of seventeen had a waist fifteen inches. Yet she was eighty-six when she died. I know that it has been so long the habit of public journals to take their example from medical men (who, I contend, are not the best judges in the matter) in running down the corset, and the very legitimate, and, if properly employed, harmless mode of giving a graceful slenderness to the figure, that I can hardly expect that at present you will have courage to take the part of the ladies. But I beg you to be so kind as to tell me what you know of the state of the fashion as regards the length and size of the waist, and whether my waist would be considered small. Also what is the smallest-sized waist known among ladies of fashion. By doing this in an early number you will very much oblige,

"Dear Madam,—As a longtime loyal reader of the Lady's Journal, I would like to ask if you, or any of your respected writers, could let me know whether it’s true that small waists are making a comeback in fashion? I know they haven't entirely gone out of style, as you still see a lot of very slender figures; however, I believe they've been less popular in recent years. I’ve heard from various sources and in the news that they are becoming La Mode again. Fortunately, I have a figure that I hope will meet the current fashion trends [156] in this respect. What is considered the smallest waist size one can have? Mine measures sixteen and a half inches, which I’ve heard is classified as small. I don’t believe the criticisms against corsets, although I admit that for someone who is an invalid or has a delicate constitution, quickly reducing waist size could be harmful. With what I think is a small waist, I can confidently say that I am in good health. If all the negative things said about corsets were true, how could so many women live to a ripe old age? A friend of mine recently passed away at eighty-six and often shared stories about how tightly she was laced in her youth, even having a fifteen-inch waist at seventeen. Yet, she lived to eighty-six. I understand it has long been a trend for public journals to align themselves with medical professionals (who, in my opinion, aren’t always the best evaluators on this topic) in criticizing corsets, and the very reasonable and, if used correctly, harmless way of achieving a graceful slenderness in figure. I’m not expecting you to have the courage to defend corsets for the ladies at this time. However, I kindly ask you to share what you know about the fashion regarding waist length and size, and whether my waist would be considered small. Additionally, what is the smallest waist size recognized among fashionable ladies? Addressing this in an upcoming issue would greatly help me."

"Yours, &c.,

"Yours, & c.,

"Constance."

"Constance."

"Madam,—As a constant reader of your highly-interesting and valuable paper, I have ventured to reply to a letter under the above heading from your correspondent Constance, contained in your last week's impression. In reply to her first question, there is little doubt, I[157] think, that slender and long waists will ere long be la mode. Ladies of fashion here who are fortunate enough to possess such enviable and graceful attractions, take most especial care by the arrangement of their toilets to show them off to the very best advantage. A waist of sixteen and a-half-inches would, I am of opinion, be considered, for a lady of fair average size and stature, small enough to satisfy even the most exacting of Fashion's votaries. The question as to how small one's waist can be is rather hard to answer, and I am not aware that any standard has yet been laid down on the subject, but an application to any of our fashionable corset-makers for the waist measurement of the smallest sizes made would go far to clear the point up. Many of the corsets worn at our late brilliant assemblies were about the size of your correspondent's, and some few, I have been informed, even less. I beg to testify most fully to the truth of the remarks made by Constance as to the absurdly-exaggerated statements (evidently made by persons utterly ignorant of the whole matter) touching the dreadfully injurious effects of the corset on the female constitution. My own, and a wide range of other experiences, leads me to a totally different conclusion, and I fully believe that, except in cases of confirmed disease or bad constitution, a well-made and nicely-fitting corset inflicts no more injury than a tight pair of gloves. Up to the age of fifteen I was educated at a small provincial school, was suffered to run as nearly wild as could well be, and grew stout, indifferent and careless as to personal appearance, dress, manners, or any of their belongings. Family circumstances and change of fortune at this time led my relatives to the conclusion that my education required a continental finish. Advantage was therefore taken of the protection offered by some friends about to travel, and I was, with well-filled trunks and a great deal of good advice, packed off to a highly-genteel and fashionable establishment for young ladies, situated in the suburbs of Paris. The morning after my arrival I was aroused by the clang of the 'morning bell.' I was in the act of commencing a hurried[158] and by no means an elaborate toilet, when the under-governess, accompanied by a brisk, trim little woman, the bearer of a long cardboard case, made their appearance; corsets of various patterns, as well as silk laces of most portentous length, were at once produced, and a very short time was allowed to elapse before my experiences in the art and mystery of tight-lacing may be fairly said to have commenced. My dresses were all removed, in order that the waists should be taken in and the make altered; a frock was borrowed for me for the day, and from that hour I was subjected to the strict and rigid system of lacing in force through the whole establishment, no relaxation of its discipline being allowed during the day on any pretence whatever. For the period (nearly three years) I remained as a pupil, I may say that my health was excellent, as was that of the great majority of my young companions in 'bondage,' and on taking my departure I had grown from a clumsy girl to a very smart young lady, and my waist was exactly seven inches less than on the day of my arrival. From Paris I proceeded at once to join my relatives in the island of Mauritius, and on my arrival in the isle sacred to the memories of Paul and Virginia, I found the reign of 'Queen Corset' most arbitrary and absolute, but without in any way that I could discover interfering with either the health or vivacity of her exceedingly attractive and pretty subjects. Before concluding, and whilst on the subject, a few words on the 'front-fastening corset,' now so generally worn, may not come amiss. After a thorough trial I have finally abandoned its use, as being imperfect and faulty in every way, excepting the very doubtful advantage of being a little more quickly put on and off. Split up and open at the front as they are, and only fastening here and there, the whole of the compactness and stability so highly important in this part, of all others, of a corset is all but lost, whilst the ordinary steel busk secures these conditions, to the wearing out of the material of which the corset is composed. The long double-looped round lace used is, I consider, by no means either as neat, secure, or[159] durable as a flat plaited silk lace of good quality. Trusting these remarks and replies may prove such as required by Constance, I beg to subscribe myself,

Dear Madam,—As a regular reader of your fascinating and valuable publication, I felt compelled to respond to a letter from your correspondent Constance, which appeared in last week's issue. In answer to her first question, I truly believe that slender and elongated waists will soon be in vogue. Fashionable women here who are fortunate enough to possess such desirable and elegant features take special care with their outfits to highlight them effectively. I would consider a waist measuring sixteen and a half inches to be small enough to please even the most discerning fashion followers for a woman of average size and height. The question of how small a waist can actually be is hard to answer, and I'm not aware of any established standards on this matter, but reaching out to some of our trendy corset makers for their smallest size measurements would help clarify this. Many of the corsets worn at our recent elegant events were about the same size as your correspondent’s, and I’ve heard that some were even smaller. I completely support Constance's remarks about the absurdly exaggerated claims (clearly made by those completely ignorant of the subject) regarding the harmful effects of corsets on women's health. My own experiences, along with a significant number of others, lead me to a very different conclusion. I firmly believe that, barring serious health issues or poor physical condition, a well-made and properly fitting corset is no more harmful than a snug pair of gloves. Until I turned fifteen, I was educated at a small local school, allowed to run almost free, and became plump, indifferent, and careless about my appearance, clothing, manners, or anything related to personal grooming. Family circumstances and a change in fortune led my relatives to decide that I needed a refined education. They took advantage of some friends who were traveling, and I was sent off to a fashionable and elite school for young ladies in the suburbs of Paris, with well-packed trunks and plenty of good advice. The morning after I arrived, I was woken up by the ringing of the 'morning bell.' I was in the midst of putting together a quick and not at all elaborate outfit when the under-governess arrived with a cheerful, well-groomed little woman carrying a long cardboard case. They immediately produced various corsets and long silk laces, and it wasn't long before my experiences with the tricky art of tight-lacing began. My dresses were all taken to be altered for a smaller waist; I borrowed a dress for the day, and from that moment on, I was subjected to the strict and rigid lacing rules enforced throughout the entire school, with no breaks allowed for any reason during the day. Throughout my nearly three years as a student, I can say my health was excellent, as was that of the majority of my fellow students in 'bondage,' and by the time I left, I had transformed from an awkward girl into a stylish young lady, with my waist having shrunk exactly seven inches since I arrived. From Paris, I immediately went to join my relatives on the island of Mauritius, and upon my arrival on this island famous for the stories of Paul and Virginia, I found the rule of 'Queen Corset' to be quite strict and dominant, but in a way that, as far as I could tell, did not affect the health or liveliness of her very attractive and charming subjects. Before I finish, I’d like to mention the 'front-fastening corset,' which is now so commonly worn. After giving it a thorough try, I’ve decided to stop using it because it's flawed and inadequate in almost every way, aside from the dubious advantage of being a bit quicker to put on and take off. Because they open at the front and only fasten here and there, they lose most of the compactness and support that are crucial in that area of a corset, while a regular steel busk provides this stability for as long as the material from which the corset is made lasts. In my view, the long, double-looped round laces used aren’t nearly as neat, secure, or[159] durable as a flat, braided silk lace of good quality. I hope these comments and replies meet what Constance needed, and I remain,

"Fanny."

"Fanny."

"Dear Madam,—I have read with interest the letters of Constance and Fanny on the subject of slender waists. It is so much the fashion among medical men to cry down tight-lacing that advocates are very daring who venture to uphold the practice. It has ever been in vogue among our sex, and will, I maintain, always continue so long as elegant figures are admired, for the wearing of corsets produces a grace and slenderness which nature never gives, and if the corset is discontinued or relaxed, the figure at once becomes stout and loose. The dress fits better over a close-laced corset, and the fullness of the skirts, and ease of its folds, are greatly enhanced by the slenderness of the waist. My own waist is under sixteen inches. I have always enjoyed good health. Why, then, if the practice of tight-lacing is not prejudicial to the constitution of all its votaries, should we be debarred from the means of improving our appearance and attaining an elegant and graceful figure? I quite agree with Fanny respecting the front-fastening corset. I consider it objectionable. The figure can never be so neat or slender as in an ordinary well-laced corset. May I inquire what has become of your correspondent Mary Blackbraid? Her partialities for gloves and wigs brought upon her severe remarks from your numerous correspondents. I agree with her in the glove question, and always wear them as much as possible in the house. I find they keep the hands cooler, and in my opinion there is no such finish to the appearance as a well-gloved hand. Where I am now staying the ladies invariably wear them, and I have[160] heard gentlemen express their admiration of the practice. I have worn them to sleep in for some years, and never found any inconvenience. Pardon me trespassing so much on your space, but your interesting paper is the only one open to our defence from the strictures of the over-particular.

"Dear Madam,—I’ve read with interest the letters from Constance and Fanny about slim waists. It's quite popular among medical professionals to criticize tight-lacing, so those who support it are pretty brave. It has always been favored by women, and I believe it will remain so as long as we admire elegant figures. Wearing corsets provides a grace and slimness that nature doesn’t offer, and if you stop or loosen the corset, the figure quickly becomes thick and loose. Dresses look better over a tightly-laced corset, and the fullness of the skirts, combined with the ease of their folds, looks so much better with a slender waist. My own waist is under sixteen inches. I’ve always enjoyed good health. So, if tight-lacing isn’t harmful to everyone who practices it, why should we be denied the chance to enhance our appearance and achieve an elegant and graceful figure? I completely agree with Fanny about the front-fastening corset. I think it looks unattractive. The figure can’t be as tidy or slim as with a regular well-laced corset. May I ask what happened to your correspondent Mary Blackbraid? Her love for gloves and wigs drew harsh comments from your many readers. I agree with her on the glove issue and always wear them as much as possible at home. I find they keep my hands cooler, and in my opinion, nothing completes an appearance like a well-gloved hand. Where I’m currently staying, the ladies always wear them, and I’ve heard men express admiration for it. I’ve even worn them to sleep for years and have never had any problems. I apologize for taking up so much of your space, but your engaging publication is the only one available for us to defend ourselves against the criticisms of the overly judgmental."

"Eliza."

"Eliza."

"Madam,—I am sure your numerous readers will thank you for your kindness in publishing so impartially the correspondence you have received on the subject of the corset, and as the question is one of great importance, and moreover one on which much difference of opinion seems to exist, I trust you will continue to give us the benefit of your correspondents' remarks.

"Madam,—I'm sure your many readers will appreciate your fairness in publishing the different opinions you've received about corsets. This issue is very important, and there seems to be a lot of differing views on it, so I hope you’ll keep sharing the insights from your correspondents."

"When I read the very àpropos letter of Constance, and the excellent letter of Fanny in reply, I was quite prepared to see in your last number some strong expressions of opinion against this most becoming fashion; but I think that they, as well as Eliza, need not be discouraged by the formidable opposition they have met with, and I beg you will afford me space for a few lines, in order to refute the arguments of the anti-corset party, in your valuable journal.

"When I read the very relevant letter from Constance and the excellent reply from Fanny, I was fully expecting to see some strong opinions against this flattering fashion in your latest issue. However, I believe that they, along with Eliza, shouldn’t be discouraged by the strong opposition they've faced. I kindly ask you to give me a few lines to counter the arguments from the anti-corset group in your esteemed journal."

"Much as I, in common with all your readers, delight in reading Mr. Frank Buckland's articles, I really cannot agree with him in his view of the subject. In the first place, I really must question his authority in the matter, for I am convinced that it is only those who have experienced the comfortable support afforded by a well-made corset who are entitled to pronounce their opinion. What can Mr. Buckland, or any one not of the corset-wearing sex, know of the practical operation of this indispensable article of female attire? I will not attempt so arduous a task as[161] that of disproving all that Mr. Combe and his professional brethren have written against tight-lacing; I am even willing to admit that there may be persons so constituted that the attainment of a graceful slenderness would be injurious; but these are the exceptions, not the rule. The remarks of the faculty are founded principally on theory, backed up by an occasional case which might very often be referred to some other cause with equal justice. But who does not know that practice often belies theory, or that theory is frequently at fault? Slender waists have been in fashion for several hundred years, and for the purposes of my argument I will refer to a period thirty or forty years ago. No one then thought of questioning the absolute necessity of attaining a slender figure by the instrumentality of the corset. If, let me ask Mr. Buckland and your other correspondents, theory be true that torture and death are the result, how does it happen not only that there are millions of healthy middle-aged ladies among us now, but that the female population actually exceeds the male? By what wonderful means have they continued to exist and enjoy such perfect health, while such a terrible engine of destruction as the corset was at work upon their frames? If all that theory said against the corset were true, not a thousand women would now be left alive.

"Like all your readers, I enjoy reading Mr. Frank Buckland's articles, but I really can’t agree with his perspective on this issue. First, I have to question his authority on the topic because I believe only those who have experienced the comfortable support of a well-made corset are qualified to share their opinions. What does Mr. Buckland, or anyone who doesn’t wear a corset, know about the practical function of this essential item of women's clothing? I won’t attempt to disprove everything Mr. Combe and his professional associates have written against tight-lacing; I’m even willing to concede that some people may be structured in a way that pursuing a graceful slenderness could be harmful, but those are the exceptions, not the rule. The comments from the medical community are mostly based on theory, supported by occasional cases that could often be attributed to other causes just as fairly. But who doesn’t know that practical experience often contradicts theory or that theory can frequently miss the mark? Slender waists have been in style for several hundred years, and for my argument, I’ll refer to a time thirty or forty years ago. Nobody then questioned the absolute necessity of achieving a slender figure with the help of a corset. If Mr. Buckland and your other correspondents believe the theory that it leads to torture and death is true, then how is it that we have millions of healthy middle-aged women among us now, and that the female population actually outnumbers the male? By what miraculous means have they managed to thrive and enjoy such good health while wearing such a supposedly terrible device as the corset? If everything theory claims about the corset were true, not a thousand women would still be alive today."

"I cannot avoid troubling you a little further while I descend more into details. Spinal curvature, it is said, is caused by wearing stays. But what kind of stays were they which produced this result, and were no other causes discernible? I think that in every instance it would be found that the stays have been badly made, that they have not been properly laced, or that the busk and materials have not been sufficiently firm.

"I can't help but bother you a bit more as I get into more details. They say that spinal curvature is caused by wearing corsets. But what kind of corsets caused this issue, and were there any other noticeable causes? I believe that in every case, it would be found that the corsets were poorly made, not laced correctly, or that the busk and materials weren't sturdy enough."

"In addition to this, girls are too often compelled to maintain an erect position on a form or a music-stool for too long a time during school hours. If the corset is properly made, a young lady may be allowed to lean back in her chair without danger of acquiring lounging habits or[162] injuring her figure. It is to this over-tiring of the muscles that all spinal curvature is attributable, and not to the stays, which, if properly employed, would act as a sure preventative. Again, let me ask any one of the opposite sex who, at any rate at the present day, do not wear stays, whether they have never experienced 'palpitation or flushings,' headaches, and red noses? What right has any one to make these special attendants on small-waisted ladies? There is no more danger of incurring these evils than by a gentleman wearing a hat. Well may the old lady have 'forgotten' these little items in her anecdotes. The comparison between the human frame and a watch is correct in some respects, but it is particularly unhappy in relation to the present subject. The works of a watch are hard and unyielding, and not being possessed of life and power of growing, cannot adapt themselves to their outer case. If you squeeze in the case the works will be broken and put out of order; far different is it with the supple and growing frame of a young girl. If the various organs are prevented from taking a certain form or direction, they will accommodate themselves to any other with perfect ease. Nothing is broken or interfered with in its action. I will, of course, allow that if a fully-grown woman were to attempt to reduce her waist suddenly, respiration and digestion would be stopped; but it is rarely, if ever, that a lady arrives at maturity before she has imbibed sufficient notions of elegance and propriety to induce her to conform to this becoming fashion to some extent. Happy indeed those who are blessed with mothers who are wise enough to educate their daughters' figures with an eye to their future comfort. The constant discomfort felt by those whose clumsy waists and exuberant forms are a perpetual bugbear to their happiness and advancement should warn mothers of the necessity of looking to the future, and by directing their figures successfully while young, avoid the unsuccessful attempts to force them at an advanced age. One word more on the question. Is a small waist admired by the gentlemen? Mr. Buckland, it seems, has become so[163] imbued with Mr. Combe's ideas against tight-lacing, that he looks upon a slender waist with feelings evidently far from admiration. But is this any reason or authority for concluding that every gentleman of taste is of a like opinion? On the contrary, I think it goes far to prove that it is other than the younger class of gentlemen (for whom, of course, the ladies lay their attractions) who run down the corset. Many times in fashionable assemblies have I heard gentlemen criticising the young ladies in such terms as these;—'What a clumsy figure Miss—— is! it completely spoils her.' 'What a pity Miss—— has not a neater figure!' and so on, and I believe there is not one young man in a thousand who does not admire a graceful slenderness of the waist. What young man cares to dance with girls who resemble casks in form? I have invariably noticed that the girls with the smallest waists are the queens of the ball-room. I have not space to enter into the discussion as to whether the artificial waist is more beautiful than that of the Venus de Medici; on such matters every one forms their own opinions. The waist of the Venus is beautiful for the Venus, but would cease to be so if clothed. I maintain that the comparison is not a good one, as the circumstances are not equal. In other respects, let the ladies, then, not be led to make themselves ungraceful and unattractive by listening to theories which are contradicted by practice, promulgated by persons ignorant, as far as their personal experience goes, of the operation and effect of corsets, and taken up by ladies and gentlemen, not of the youngest, who, like your Country Subscriber, are past the age when the pleasantest excitements of life form topics of interest. Is it not natural that a young lady should be anxious to present a sylph-like form instead of appearing matronly? There are some to whom the words 'tight lacing' suggest immediately what they are pleased to term 'torture,' 'misery,' &c., but who have never taken the trouble to inquire into the subject, preferring the far easier way of taking for granted that all that has been said against it is true. When such would-be bene[164]factors to the fair sex hear of a sudden death, or see a lady faint at a ball or a theatre, they immediately raise the cry of 'Tight-lacing!' An instance occurred not long ago in which, in a public journal, the sudden death of a young lady was ascribed to this cause, but in a few days afterwards was expressly contradicted in a paragraph of the same paper. Do we never hear of men dying suddenly, or fainting away from overheat? That small waists are the fashion admits of no doubt, for I have myself applied to several fashionable corset-makers in London and the principal fashionable resorts to ascertain whether it be the case. I gather from their information that small waists are most unmistakably the fashion; that there are more corsets made to order under eighteen inches than over that measurement; that the smallest size is usually fifteen inches, though few possess so elegantly small a waist, the majority being about seventeen or eighteen inches; that the ladies are now beginning to see that the front-fastening busk is not so good as the old-fashioned kind, and have their daughters' corsets well boned. Many also prefer shoulder-straps for the stays of growing girls, which keep the chest expanded, and prevent their leaning too much on the busk. If these are not too tight they are very advantageous to the figure, and the upper part of the corset should just fit, but not be tight. A corset made on these principles will cause no injury to health, unless the girl is naturally of a consumptive constitution, in which case no one would think of lacing at all tightly.

"In addition to this, girls often have to sit up straight on a bench or a music stool for too long during school hours. If a corset is well-made, a young woman can lean back in her chair without risking bad lounging habits or damaging her figure. All spinal curvature is caused by over-straining the muscles, not by the corset, which, if used correctly, would actually prevent such issues. Again, I ask anyone from the opposite sex who, at least nowadays, doesn't wear corsets, whether they've never experienced 'palpitations or flushes,' headaches, or red noses? What right does anyone have to single out these as typical for small-waisted ladies? There's no more danger of facing these issues than a gentleman wearing a hat. It’s understandable that the older generation may have 'forgotten' such minor details in their stories. The comparison of the human body to a watch is accurate in some ways, but it falls short regarding this topic. A watch's mechanisms are hard and unyielding, and since they lack life and growth, they can't adapt to their casing. If you squeeze the casing, the mechanisms break and malfunction; this is completely different from the flexible and developing body of a young girl. If the various organs are prevented from taking their natural shape or direction, they'll easily adjust to any other without issue. Nothing is broken or interfered with in their function. Of course, I admit that if a fully-grown woman suddenly tried to reduce her waist, it might cause breathing and digestion issues; however, it’s rare for a woman to reach maturity without having absorbed enough notions of elegance and propriety to follow this fashionable trend to some degree. How fortunate are those who have mothers wise enough to guide their daughters' figures with an eye on their future comfort! The constant discomfort faced by those with awkward waists and oversized forms is a continual barrier to their happiness and progress, serving as a reminder for mothers about the importance of planning for the future. By guiding their figures effectively while they're young, they can avoid the failed attempts to correct them later in life. One more point on the matter: Is a small waist admired by men? Mr. Buckland seems so influenced by Mr. Combe's views against tight-lacing that he regards a slender waist with feelings quite the opposite of admiration. But does this mean every tasteful gentleman feels the same? On the contrary, I believe it underscores that it's the older generation of gentlemen (for whom, of course, women try to attract) who disparage corsets. Many times in fashionable gatherings, I've heard men criticize young ladies by saying things like, ‘What a clumsy figure Miss— has! It completely ruins her.' or ‘What a shame Miss— doesn't have a nicer figure!’ and I suspect not one young man in a thousand doesn't appreciate a graceful, slim waist. What young man wants to dance with girls who look like barrels? I've consistently noticed that the girls with the smallest waists are the stars of the ballroom. I don't have the space to argue whether an artificial waist is more beautiful than that of Venus de Medici; everyone will have their own views on those matters. Venus’s waist is stunning for Venus, but it wouldn’t be the same once clothed. I maintain that the comparison is flawed since the circumstances are not equal. In other ways, let the ladies not make themselves clumsy and unattractive by adhering to theories that are disproven by practical experience, spread by people who, based on their own experiences, know little about how corsets work and affect the body, and picked up by older ladies and gentlemen who, like your Country Subscriber, have moved beyond the age when the most delightful excitements of life spark interest. Isn’t it natural for a young lady to want to portray a slender figure rather than look matronly? Some people hear the term ‘tight-lacing’ and immediately think of what they call 'torture,' 'misery,' etc., without ever bothering to investigate, choosing the easier route of just assuming all criticism is accurate. When these self-proclaimed benefactors of the fair sex hear about a sudden death, or see a lady faint at a ball or theater, they instantly shout, 'Tight-lacing!' Recently, in a public journal, a young lady's sudden death was attributed to this reason, but a few days later, it was explicitly refuted in another part of the same paper. Do we never hear about men dying suddenly or fainting from overheating? There’s no doubt that small waists are in fashion; I've consulted several fashionable corset makers in London and the main fashionable hotspots to find out. From what they tell me, it’s clear that small waists are very much in style; more corsets are made to order under eighteen inches than over that size; the smallest size is typically fifteen inches, although few women have such elegantly small waists—most are around seventeen or eighteen inches; ladies are realizing that front-fastening busks aren't as effective as the old-fashioned style and are having their daughters' corsets well-boned. Many also prefer shoulder straps for the stays of growing girls to keep their chests lifted and prevent them from leaning too much on the busk. If these aren't too tight, they greatly benefit the figure, and the upper part of the corset should fit snugly without being tight. A corset designed according to these principles won't harm health unless the girl naturally has a weak constitution, in which case no one would think of lacing too tightly."

"I must apologise for this long letter, but I felt bound to take advantage of the opportunity you afford to discuss this really important question.

"I apologize for this long letter, but I felt it was necessary to take advantage of the opportunity you provided to discuss this really important question."

"I remain, madam, yours,

"I remain, madam, yours,

"Admirer."

"Admirer."

---

CHAPTER VIII.

The elegant figure of the Empress of Austria—Slender waists the fashion in Vienna—The small size of Corsets frequently made in London—Letter from the Queen on small waists—Remarks on the portrait of the Empress of Austria in the Exhibition—Diminutive waist of Lady Morton—General remarks on the figure—Remarks on figure-training by the use of stays—Mode of constructing Corsets for growing girls—Tight-lacing abolished by the early use of well-constructed Corsets—Boarding-school discipline and extreme tight-lacing—Letter in praise of tight Corsets—Letter in praise of Crinoline and Corsets—Another letter on boarding-school discipline and figure-training—The waist of fashion contrasted with that of the Venus de Medici—A fashionably-dressed statue—Clumsy figures a serious drawback to young ladies—Letter from a lady, who habitually laces with extreme tightness, in praise of the Corset—Opinions of a young baronet on slender waists; letter from a family man on the same subject.

The graceful figure of the Empress of Austria—Slim waists are popular in Vienna—The small size of corsets often made in London—A letter from the Queen discussing small waists—Comments on the portrait of the Empress of Austria at the Exhibition—The tiny waist of Lady Morton—General observations on body shape—Comments on shaping the figure with corsets—Suggestions for designing corsets for growing girls—Tight-lacing was diminished by the early use of well-made corsets—Boarding school rules and extreme tight-lacing—A letter praising tight corsets—A letter praising crinoline and corsets—Another letter discussing boarding school rules and body shaping—The fashion waist compared to that of the Venus de Medici—A statue dressed in the latest style—Awkward figures are a significant disadvantage for young women—A letter from a woman who regularly laces very tightly, praising the corset—Thoughts from a young baronet on slim waists; a letter from a family man on the same subject.

"Corsets and Small Waists.

"Corsets and Small Waists.

"I am a constant reader of the Queen, and look forward with anxiety for more of the very interesting letters on the corset question which you are so obliging as to insert in your paper. I know many who take as much pleasure in reading them as myself, for the subject is one on which both[166] health and beauty greatly depend. All who visited the picture-gallery in the Exhibition of 1862 must have seen an exquisitely-painted portrait of the beautiful Empress of Austria, and though it did not show the waist in the most favourable position, some idea may be formed of its elegant slenderness and easy grace. Many were the remarks made upon it by all classes of critics while I seated myself opposite the picture for a few minutes. I should like any one who maintains that small waists are not generally admired to have taken up the position which I did for half-an-hour, and I am sure she would soon find her opinion unsupported by facts; your correspondents, however, are at fault in supposing that sixteen inches is the smallest waist that the world has almost ever known. Lady Babbage, in her Collection of Curiosities, tells us that in a portrait of Lady Morton, in the possession of Lord Dillon, the waist cannot exceed ten or twelve inches in circumference, and at the largest part immediately beneath the armpits not more than twenty-four, and the immense length of the figure seems to give it the appearance of even greater slenderness. Catherine de Medici considered the standard of perfection to be thirteen inches. It is scarcely to be supposed that any lady of the present day possesses such an absurdly small waist as thirteen inches, but I am certain that not a few could be found whose waistband does not exceed fifteen inches and three-quarters or sixteen inches. Much depends on the height and width of the shoulders; narrow shoulders generally admit of a small waist, and many tall women are naturally so slender as to be able to show a small waist with very little lacing. It is needless to remark how much depends on the corset. Your correspondent, A. H. Turnour, says that the long corsets, if well pulled in at the waist, compress one cruelly all the way up, and cause the shoulders to deport themselves awkwardly and stiffly. Now, no corset will be able to do this if constructed as it should be. I believe the great fault to be that when the corset is laced on it is very generally open an inch or so from top to bottom. The consequence of this is, that when the wearer[167] is sitting down, and the pressure on the waist the greatest, the tendency is to pull the less tightly drawn lace at the top of the corset tighter; on changing the posture this does not right itself, and consequently an unnecessary and injurious compression round the chest is experienced. Now, if the corset, when fitted, were so made that it should meet all the way, or at any rate above and below the waist, when laced on, this evil would be entirely avoided, and absence of compression round the upper part of the chest would give an increased appearance of slenderness to the waist and allow the lungs as much play as the waistbands. There seems to be an idea that when the corset is made to meet it gives a stiffness to the figure. In the days of buckram this might be the case, but no such effect need be feared from the light and flexible stays of the present day, and the fault which frequently leads to the fear of wearing corsets which do not meet is, that the formation of the waist is not begun early enough. The consequence of this is, that the waist has to be compressed into a slender shape after it has been allowed to swell, and the stays are therefore made so as to allow of being laced tighter and tighter. Now I am persuaded that much inconvenience is caused by this practice, which might be entirely avoided by the following simple plan, which I have myself tried with my own daughters, and have found to answer admirably. At the age of seven I had them fitted with stays without much bone and a flexible busk, and these were made to meet from top to bottom when laced, and so as not to exercise the least pressure round the chest and beneath the waist, and only a very slight pressure at the waist, just enough to show off the figure and give it a roundness. To prevent the stays from slipping, easy shoulder-straps were added. In front, extending from the top more than half way to the waist, were two sets of lace-holes, by which the stays could be enlarged round the upper part. As my daughters grew, these permitted of my always preventing any undue pressure, but I always laced the stays so as to meet behind. When new ones were required they were made exactly[168] the same size at the waist, but as large round the upper part as the gradual enlargement had made the former pair. They were also of course made a little longer, and the position of the shoulder-straps slightly altered; by these means their figures were directed instead of forced into a slender shape; no inconvenience was felt, and my daughters, I am happy to say, are straight, and enjoy perfect health, while the waist of the eldest is eighteen inches, and that of the youngest seventeen. I am convinced that my plan is the most reasonable one that can be adopted. By this means 'tight-lacing' will be abolished, for no tight-lacing or compression is required, and the child, being accustomed to the stays from an early age, does not experience any of the inconveniences which are sometimes felt by those who do not adopt them till twelve or fourteen.

"I regularly read the Queen and eagerly look forward to more of the intriguing letters about corsets that you kindly publish in your paper. I know many others who enjoy them just as much as I do, since this topic significantly influences both[166] health and beauty. Anyone who visited the art gallery during the 1862 Exhibition must have seen a beautifully painted portrait of the lovely Empress of Austria. Although it didn't show the waist in the most flattering way, it still conveys her elegant slenderness and natural grace. I heard many comments from critics of all kinds while I sat in front of the painting for a few minutes. I’d love for anyone who says that small waists aren’t generally admired to take my place for half an hour; I’m sure they’d soon find their opinion contradicted by reality. Your correspondents are wrong to believe that sixteen inches is the smallest waist the world has nearly ever known. Lady Babbage, in her Collection of Curiosities, tells us that in a portrait of Lady Morton, owned by Lord Dillon, the waist is no more than ten or twelve inches in circumference, and at its widest point just below the armpits, no more than twenty-four inches, while the length of the figure gives it an even slimmer appearance. Catherine de Medici considered a thirteen-inch waist to be the standard of perfection. While it’s unlikely that any modern woman has such an absurdly small waist as thirteen inches, I’m confident that there are quite a few whose waistbands do not exceed fifteen and three-quarters or sixteen inches. Much depends on height and shoulder width; narrow shoulders usually allow for a small waist, and many tall women naturally have such a slender figure that they can show a small waist with minimal lacing. There’s no need to point out how much depends on the corset. Your correspondent, A. H. Turnour, mentions that long corsets, if tightened at the waist, can cause painful compression all the way up and make the shoulders stiffen uncomfortably. However, no corset should do this if it's made correctly. I believe the main issue is that when the corset is laced, it’s often left an inch or so open from top to bottom. This results in the top lace being pulled tighter when the wearer is sitting down and the pressure on the waist is greatest, and when they change positions, it doesn’t adjust back, causing unnecessary and harmful compression around the chest. If the corset were designed to meet all the way, or at least above and below the waist when laced, this issue would be completely eliminated, and a lack of compression around the upper chest would enhance the appearance of the waist while allowing the lungs plenty of room to breathe. There seems to be a belief that when the corset is fitted to meet, it makes the figure stiff. This may have been true during the buckram days, but that's not a concern with the light and flexible stays we have today. The anxiety around not wearing meeting corsets often comes from starting waist shaping too late. This results in the waist needing to be compressed into a slender shape after it has already swelled, requiring stays that can be laced tighter and tighter. I believe this practice causes a lot of discomfort that could be avoided with a simple approach I've successfully tried with my own daughters. At age seven, I had them fitted with stays that had minimal boning and a flexible busk, designed to meet from top to bottom when laced, applying no pressure around the chest and below the waist, with only a very slight pressure at the waist, just enough to highlight their figure and give it a rounded appearance. To prevent the stays from slipping, I added easy shoulder straps. In the front, there were two sets of lace-holes extending from the top more than halfway to the waist, which allowed for adjustments around the upper part as my daughters grew, and I made sure everything was adjusted to avoid undue pressure. I always laced the stays to meet at the back. When new ones were needed, they were made exactly[168] the same size at the waist but larger around the upper part to accommodate their gradual growth. They were also made slightly longer, and I adjusted the shoulder strap position; with these methods, their figures were guided into a slender shape rather than forced, avoiding any discomfort. I’m pleased to say that my daughters are straight and in perfect health, with the eldest’s waist measuring eighteen inches and the youngest’s seventeen. I am convinced that my method is the most sensible option available. With this approach, 'tight-lacing' will be eliminated, as no tight lacing or compression is necessary, and since the child is used to stays from a young age, they won’t experience the discomfort that often affects those who start wearing them at twelve or fourteen."

"A Former Correspondent (Edinburgh)."

"A Former Correspondent (Edinburgh)."

"I have been abroad for the last four years, during which I left my daughter at a large and fashionable boarding-school near London. I sent for her home directly I arrived, and, having had no bad accounts of her health during my absence, I expected to see a fresh rosy girl of seventeen come bounding to welcome me. What, then, was my surprise to see a tall, pale young lady glide slowly in with measured gait and languidly embrace me; when she had removed her mantle I understood at once what had been mainly instrumental in metamorphosing my merry romping girl to a pale fashionable belle. Her waist had, during the four years she had been at school, been reduced to such absurdly small dimensions that I could easily have clasped it with my two hands. 'How could you be so foolish,' I exclaimed, 'as to sacrifice your health for the sake of a fashionable figure?' 'Please don't blame me, mamma,' she replied, 'I assure you I would not have voluntarily submitted to the torture I have suffered for all the admiration in the world.' She then told me how the most merciless system of tight-lacing was the rule of the establishment, and how she and her forty or fifty fellow-pupils had been daily imprisoned in vices of whalebone drawn tight by the muscular arms of sturdy waiting-maids, till the fashionable standard of tenuity was attained. The torture at first was, she declared, often intolerable; but all entreaties were vain, as no relaxation of the cruel laces was allowed during the day under any pretext except decided illness. 'But why did you not complain to me at first?' I inquired. 'As soon as I found to what a system of torture I was condemned,' she replied, 'I wrote a long letter to you describing my sufferings, and praying you to take me away. But the lady principal made it a rule to revise all letters sent by, or received by, the pupils, and when she saw mine she not only refused to let it pass, but punished me severely for rebelling against the discipline of the school.' 'At least you will now obtain relief from your sufferings,' I exclaimed, 'for you shall not go back to that school any more.' On attempting to discontinue the tight-lacing,[173] however, my daughter found that she had been so weakened by the severe pressure of the last four years that her muscles were powerless to support her, and she has therefore been compelled to lace as tight as ever, or nearly so. She says, however, that she does not suffer much inconvenience now, or, indeed, after the first two years—so wonderful is the power of Nature to accommodate herself to circumstances. The mischief is done; her muscles have been, so to speak, murdered, and she must submit for life to be incased in a stiff panoply of whalebone and steel, and all this torture and misery for what?—merely to attract admiration for her small waist. I called on the lady principal of the establishment the next day, and was told that very few ladies objected to their daughters having their figures improved, that small waists were just now as fashionable as ever, and that no young lady could go into good society with a coarse, clumsy waist like a rustic, that she had always given great satisfaction by her system, which she assured me required unremitting perseverance and strictness, owing to the obstinacy of young girls, and the difficulty of making them understand the importance of a good figure. Finding that I could not touch the heart of this female inquisitor, who was so blinded by fashion, I determined to write to you and inform your readers of the system adopted in fashionable boarding-schools, so that if they do not wish their daughters tortured into wasp-waisted invalids they may avoid sending them to schools where the corset-screw is an institution of the establishment."

"I’ve been living abroad for the last four years, during which I sent my daughter to a popular boarding school near London. I asked her to come home as soon as I got back, and since I hadn’t heard any bad news about her health while I was away, I expected to see a lively, rosy-faced seventeen-year-old rush to greet me. So, I was shocked to see a tall, pale young woman walk in slowly and give me a lazy hug. When she took off her coat, I instantly realized what had changed my cheerful, playful girl into a pale, stylish beauty. Her waist had been shrunk to such an absurdly tiny size during her four years at school that I could easily wrap my hands around it. 'How could you be so foolish,' I exclaimed, 'to sacrifice your health for the sake of a trendy figure?' 'Please don’t blame me, Mom,' she replied, 'I promise I wouldn’t have willingly gone through the torture I endured for all the admiration in the world.' She went on to explain that the brutal practice of tight-lacing was normal at the school, and how she and her forty or fifty classmates were daily squeezed into whalebone corsets tightened by the strong arms of sturdy maids until they reached the fashionable standard of thinness. At first, she said, the pain was often unbearable, but no pleas were accepted; no relief from the cruel laces was allowed during the day except in cases of serious illness. 'But why didn’t you tell me sooner?' I asked. 'As soon as I realized what a torture system I was in,' she replied, 'I wrote you a long letter describing my suffering and begging you to come and take me away. But the headmistress made it a rule to review all letters sent to or from the students, and when she saw mine, she not only refused to let it be sent, but also punished me severely for going against the school’s rules.' 'At least you will now be free from your suffering,' I said, 'because you won’t be going back to that school anymore.' However, when my daughter tried to stop the tight-lacing, she found that the intense pressure from the past four years had weakened her muscles so much that she couldn’t support herself, so she had to lace up as tightly as before, or nearly so. She says, though, that she doesn’t feel much discomfort now, or indeed, after the first two years—such is the amazing ability of Nature to adapt to circumstances. The damage is done; her muscles have, in a way, been destroyed, and she has to live with a rigid cage of whalebone and steel for the rest of her life—all this pain and misery for what? Just to attract admiration for her tiny waist. The next day, I visited the headmistress of the school and was told that very few mothers objected to their daughters having their figures 'improved,' that small waists were just as fashionable as ever, and that no young woman could fit into good society with a rough, clumsy waist like a farm girl. She claimed she had always been very satisfied with her method, which she assured me required ongoing perseverance and strictness due to the stubbornness of young girls and the challenge of helping them understand the importance of a good figure. Realizing I couldn’t reach the heart of this fashion-blinded woman, I decided to write to you and inform your readers about the methods used in trendy boarding schools, so that if they don’t want their daughters tortured into becoming waif-like invalids, they can avoid sending them to schools where the corset is a key part of the program."

"In reply to the invitation from the lady from Edinburgh to a discussion on the popular system amongst our sex of compression of the waist, when requisite to attain elegance of figure, I beg to say that I am inclined, from the tone of her letter, to consider her an advocate of the system she at first sight appears to condemn. This conviction of mine may arise from my own partiality to the practice of tight-lacing, but the[174] manner in which she puts the question almost inclines me to believe that she is, as a corset-maker, financially interested in the general adoption of the corset-screw. Her account of the whole affair seems so artificial, so made up for a purpose, so to speak, that I, for one, am inclined to totally discredit it. A waist 'easily clasped with two hands.' Ye powers! what perfection! how delightful! I declare that ever since I read that I have worn a pair of stays that I had rejected for being too small for me, as they did not quite meet behind (and I can't bear a pair that I cannot closely lace), and have submitted to an extra amount of muscular exertion from my maid in order to approach, if ever so distantly, the delightful dimensions of two handsful. Then, again, how charmingly she insinuates that if we will only persevere, only submit to a short probationary period of torture, the hated compression (but desired attenuation) will have become a second nature to us, that not only will it not inconvenience us, but possibly we shall be obliged, for comfort's sake itself, to continue the practice. Now, madam, as a part of the present whole of modern dress, every one must admit that a slender waist is a great acquisition, and from my own experience and the experience of several young lady friends similarly addicted to guide me, I beg to pronounce the so-called evils of tight-lacing to be a mere bugbear and so much cant. Every woman has the remedy in her own hands. If she feels the practice to be an injury to her, she can but discontinue it at any time. To me the sensation of being tightly laced in a pair of elegant, well-made, tightly-fitting corsets is superb, and I have never felt any evil to arise therefrom. I rejoice in quite a collection of these much-abused objects—in silk, satin, and coutil of every style and colour—and never feel prouder or happier, so far as matters of the toilette are concerned, than when I survey in myself the fascinating undulations of outline.

"In response to the invitation from the lady in Edinburgh to talk about the popular practice of waist compression among our gender, which seems necessary for achieving an elegant figure, I must say that I believe, based on the tone of her letter, that she secretly supports the method she initially seems to criticize. This belief might come from my own fondness for tight-lacing, but the way she brings it up makes me think that, as a corset maker, she has a financial stake in promoting corsets. Her description of the situation feels so contrived and calculated that I can't help but doubt it. A waist 'easily clasped with two hands'? Goodness! What perfection! How delightful! Ever since I read that, I’ve been wearing a pair of stays that I had previously dismissed as too small since they didn’t quite meet at the back (and I can’t stand a pair that I can't lace closely), and I’ve endured my maid putting in extra effort to try to achieve, even if just a little, that delightful two-hand measurement. Furthermore, she charmingly suggests that if we just stick with it and endure a brief period of discomfort, the dreaded pressure (but desired slimness) will become second nature, and rather than being a hassle, we might even feel motivated to keep it up for comfort's sake. Now, madam, as part of today’s fashion, everyone must agree that a slender waist is a significant asset, and based on my experience along with that of some friends who share my fondness for this trait, I must declare the so-called dangers of tight-lacing to be nothing but a scare tactic and complete nonsense. Every woman has the power to decide. If she finds this practice harmful, she can simply stop at any time. For me, the sensation of being laced tightly in a well-made, beautifully fitting corset is fantastic, and I’ve never experienced any harm from it. I proudly have quite a collection of these often-criticized items—made of silk, satin, and coutil in various styles and colors—and I feel most proud and happy, especially about my appearance, when I admire the alluring curves of my silhouette."

"Staylace."

"Staylace."

"Please let me join in the all-absorbing discussion you have introduced at the Englishwoman's monthly Conversazione, and let me first thank Staylace for her capital letter. I quite agree with her in suspecting the story of the young lady at the boarding-school to be overdrawn a little. Would the young lady herself oblige us with a description of her 'tortures,' as I and several of my friends who follow the present fashion of small waists are curious to know something of them, having never experienced these terrible sufferings, though my waistband measures only eighteen inches? The truth is, there are always a number of fussy middle-aged people who (with the best intentions, no doubt) are always abusing some article of female dress. The best of it is, these benevolent individuals are usually of that sex whose costume precludes them from making a personal trial of the articles they condemn. Now it is the crinoline which draws forth their indignant outcries, now the corset, and now the chignon. They know not from their own experience how the crinoline relieves us from the weight of many under-skirts, and prevents them from clinging to us while walking, and they have never felt the comfortable support of a well-made corset. Yet they decry the use of the first as unaccountable, and of the second as suicidal. Let me tell them, however, that the ladies themselves judge from practice and not from theory, and if the opponents of the corset require proof of this, let me remind them that compression of the waist has been more or less universal throughout the civilised world for three or four centuries, in spite of reams of paper and gallons of printing-ink. I may add that, for my own part, I have always laced tightly, and have always enjoyed good health. Allow me to recommend ladies to have their corsets made to measure, and if they do not feel they suffer any inconvenience, they may certainly take the example of your clever[176] correspondent Staylace, and look upon the outcry as a 'bugbear and so much cant.'

"I’d like to join in on the engaging discussion you’ve started at the Englishwoman's monthly Conversazione, and first, I want to thank Staylace for her wonderful letter. I completely agree with her in thinking that the story of the young lady at the boarding school might be a bit exaggerated. Would the young lady herself be willing to describe her 'tortures'? Several friends and I, who are following the current trend of small waists, are curious to learn more about them, as we’ve never experienced such terrible suffering, even though my waistband measures only eighteen inches. The truth is, there are always a number of picky middle-aged people who (with the best of intentions, no doubt) constantly criticize some aspect of women’s clothing. The irony is that these well-meaning individuals usually belong to the gender whose clothing prevents them from personally trying out the items they condemn. Right now, it’s the crinoline that causes their outrage, then the corset, and now the chignon. They have no idea, based on personal experience, how the crinoline actually lightens the burden of multiple underskirts and prevents them from clinging while walking, nor have they ever enjoyed the comfortable support of a well-made corset. Yet they call the first unreasonable and the second dangerous. However, let me tell them that women base their opinions on experience, not theory. If the corset opponents need proof, let me remind them that waist compression has been more or less a universal practice throughout the civilized world for three or four centuries, despite countless articles and gallons of ink. Personally, I have always laced tightly and have consistently enjoyed good health. I recommend that women have their corsets custom-made, and if they don’t feel any discomfort, they can certainly take a cue from your clever [176] correspondent Staylace and view the criticism as just a 'boogeyman and a lot of nonsense.'

"Belle."

"Belle."

"In last month's number of your valuable magazine you were kind enough to publish a letter from my mamma on the subject of tight-lacing, and as your correspondent Staylace says she is inclined to think the whole story made up for a purpose, mamma has requested me to write and confirm what she stated in her letter. It seems wonderful to me how your correspondent can lace so tightly and never feel any inconvenience. It may be, very likely, owing to her having begun very young. In my case I can only say I suffered sometimes perfect torture from my stays, especially after dinner, not that I ate heartily, for that I found impossible, even if we had been allowed to do so by our schoolmistress, who considered it unladylike. The great difference between your correspondent Staylace and myself seems to be that she was incased in corsets at an early age, and thus became gradually accustomed to tight-lacing, while I did not wear them till I went to school at fourteen, and I did not wear them voluntarily. Of course it is impossible to say whether I underwent greater pressure than she has. I think I must have done so, for my waist had grown large before it was subjected to the lacing, and had to be reduced to its present tenuity, whereas, if she began stays earlier, that would have prevented her figure from growing so large. Perhaps Staylace will be so kind as to say whether she began stays early, or at any rate before fourteen, and what is the size of her waist[177] and her height? One reason why she does not feel any inconvenience from tight corsets may be that, when she feels disposed, she may loosen them, and thus prevent any pain from coming on. But when I was at school I was not allowed to loosen them in the least, however much they distressed me, so that what was in the morning merely a feeling of irksome pressure, became towards the end of the day a regular torture. I quite admit that slender waists are beautiful—in fact, my own waist is so much admired that I sometimes forget the pain I underwent in attaining it. I am also quite ready to confess I am not in ill-health, though I often feel languid and disinclined for walking out. Nor do I think a girl whose constitution is sound would suffer any injury to her health from moderate lacing, but I must beg that you will allow me to declare that when stays are not worn till fourteen years of age, very tight lacing causes absolute torture for the first few months, and it was principally to deter ladies from subjecting their daughters to this pain in similar cases that mamma wrote to you. I am sure any young lady who has (like myself) begun tight-lacing rather late will corroborate what I have said, and I hope some will come forward and do so, now you so kindly give the opportunity."

"In last month's issue of your respected magazine, you published a letter from my mom about tight-lacing. Your correspondent Staylace seems to think the whole story is fabricated, so my mom asked me to write in and confirm her points. I find it unbelievable how Staylace can lace so tightly without any discomfort. It’s probably because she started at such a young age. For me, wearing a corset was sometimes pure agony, especially after dinner—not that I ate much, since our schoolmistress thought it was unladylike. The main difference between me and Staylace appears to be that she wore corsets from an early age, so she gradually adjusted to tight-lacing, while I only started wearing them when I went to school at fourteen, and it wasn’t my choice. It's hard to determine if I felt more pressure than she did, but I think I might have, since my waist was already larger before I started lacing it tightly, which I had to reduce to its current size. If she began using corsets earlier, it probably helped her figure stay smaller. Maybe Staylace could share if she started wearing them before age fourteen and what her waist size and height are[177]. One reason she might not feel discomfort from tight corsets could be that she can loosen them whenever she likes, avoiding pain. But when I was in school, I wasn't allowed to loosen mine at all, no matter how uncomfortable it became, turning what began as mere pressure in the morning into real torture by the end of the day. I admit that slim waists are attractive—actually, my own waist gets so much admiration that sometimes I forget the pain I endured to achieve it. I also confess that I'm not in bad health, although I often feel tired and lack the motivation to go out. I don’t believe a girl in good health would harm herself from moderate lacing, but I must say that if corsets aren’t worn until the age of fourteen, very tight lacing can cause significant pain for the first few months. My mom wrote to you mainly to discourage women from putting their daughters through this suffering in similar situations. I'm sure any young lady who, like me, started tight-lacing relatively late will support what I’ve said, and I hope some will come forward to do so, especially since you’ve kindly provided this opportunity."

A Schoolmistress Correspondent says—"As a regular subscriber to your valuable magazine, I see you have invited your numerous readers to discuss the subject brought forward by a correspondent in Edinburgh, and as the principal of a large ladies' school in that city, I feel sure you[178] will kindly allow me space to say a few words in reply to her letter. In the first place it must be apparent that your correspondent committed a great mistake in placing her daughter at a fashionable school if she did not wish her to become a fashionable belle, or she should at least have given instructions that her daughter should not have her figure trained in what every one knows is the fashionable style. For my own part I have always paid particular attention to the figures of the young ladies intrusted to my care, and being fully convinced that if the general health is properly attended to, corsets are far from being the dreadfully hurtful things some people imagine. I have never hesitated to employ this most important and elegant article of dress, except in one case where the pupil was of a consumptive tendency, and I was specially requested not to allow her to dress at all tightly. All my pupils enjoy good health, my great secret being regular exercise, a point which is almost always disregarded. It appears from your correspondent's letter that the young lady did not experience any inconvenience after the first two years she was at the school, nor does her mother say her health was affected. She only complains that she is no longer a 'romping girl.' Now, no young lady of eighteen who expects to move in fashionable society would wish to be thought a romping schoolgirl. With regard to the slight pain in the muscles which the young lady described as 'torture,' this was no doubt caused by her not having been accustomed by degrees to a close-fitting dress before she went to the school. I find that girls who have commenced the use of stays at an early age, and become gradually used to them, do not experience any uneasiness when they are worn tighter at fourteen or fifteen. There can be no doubt that a slender figure is as much admired as ever, and always will be so. The present fashion of short waists is admitted on all hands to be very ugly, and will soon go out. Those girls, then, who have not had their figures properly attended to while growing will be unable to reduce their waists when the fashion changes, whereas, by proper care now, they will be able to adopt the[179] fashion of longer waists without any inconvenience. I trust you will allow us schoolmistresses fair play in this important matter, and insert this, or part of it, in your magazine."

A Schoolmistress Correspondent says—"As a dedicated subscriber to your valuable magazine, I noticed you have invited your readers to weigh in on the topic raised by a correspondent from Edinburgh. As the head of a large ladies' school in that city, I hope you[178] will allow me some space to respond to her letter. First, it's clear that your correspondent made a significant mistake by sending her daughter to a fashionable school if she didn't want her to become a fashionable belle. At the very least, she should have instructed that her daughter not be trained in the popular fashionable style. Personally, I have always paid special attention to the physiques of the young ladies in my care, and I firmly believe that if overall health is properly managed, corsets aren't the harmful items that some consider them to be. I've never hesitated to use this essential and stylish piece of clothing, except once, when a student was prone to consumption, and I was specifically asked not to let her dress too tightly. All my students enjoy good health, and my key secret is regular exercise, which is often neglected. Your correspondent's letter indicates that the young lady did not have any issues during her first two years at school, and her mother doesn't mention any health concerns. She only complains that she is no longer a 'romping girl.' Now, no eighteen-year-old young lady who expects to socialize in fashionable circles would want to be seen as a playful schoolgirl. Regarding the slight muscle pain that the young lady described as 'torture,' this was likely because she wasn’t gradually accustomed to wearing a close-fitting dress before attending school. I find that girls who start wearing stays at an early age and gradually get used to them do not feel discomfort when they’re worn tighter at fourteen or fifteen. There’s no doubt that a slender figure is still admired and will always be. The current trend of short waists is widely recognized as unattractive and will soon fade. Therefore, girls who haven’t had their figures properly managed during their growth will find it hard to reduce their waists when the style changes, while with the right care now, they will adapt to the[179] longer waist trend without any issues. I trust you will give us schoolmistresses a fair chance in this important matter and include this, or part of it, in your magazine."

Mignon says—"Dear Mrs. Englishwoman,—I beg—I pray—that you will not close your delightful Conversazione to the tight-lacing question: it is an absorbing one; hundreds, thousands of your young lady readers are deeply interested in this matter, and the subscribers to your excellent magazine are increasing daily, to my own knowledge, by reason of this interesting controversy; pray wait a little, and you will see how the tight-lacers and their gentlemen admirers will rally round the banner that has been unfurled. There is an attempt being made to introduce the hideous fashion of the 'Empire,' as it is called. Why should we, who have been disciplined at home and at school, and laced tighter and tighter month after month, until our waists have become 'small by degrees and beautifully less,' be expected to hide our figures (which we know are admired) under such atrocious drapery? My stay and dress maker both tell me that it is only the ill-formed and waistless ones that have taken to the fashion; such, of course, are well pleased, and will have no objection to have their waistbands as high as their armpits. Angular and rigid figures have always pretended to sneer at tight-lacers, but any one of them would give half, nay, their whole fortune to attain to such small dimensions as some of your correspondents describe. I shall keep my waist where nature has placed it, and where art has improved it, for my own comfort, and because a certain friend has said that he never could survive if it were any larger or shorter. My waist remains just as it was a year and a-half ago, when I left school, where in the course of three years it was by imperceptible degrees laced from twenty to fifteen inches, not only without injury to health but with great satisfaction and comfort to myself."

Mignon says—"Dear Mrs. Englishwoman,—I'm pleading with you, please don’t end your delightful discussion on the subject of tight-lacing: it’s a fascinating topic; hundreds, even thousands of your young female readers are truly interested in this issue, and I know that the number of subscribers to your amazing magazine is increasing every day because of this engaging debate; please hold on a little longer, and you’ll see how the tight-lacers and their male supporters will come together to support this cause. There’s a movement to promote the dreadful 'Empire' style, as it’s called. Why should we, who have been educated at home and in school, and have laced tighter and tighter each month until our waists have become 'small by degrees and beautifully less,' be expected to hide our figures (which we know are admired) under such unattractive clothing? My stay and dressmaker both tell me that only those poorly shaped and without waistlines have embraced this trend; such people, of course, are content and don’t mind having their waistbands up to their armpits. Angular and stiff figures have always pretended to look down on tight-lacers, but any of them would happily give away half, if not their entire fortune, to achieve the tiny measurements that some of your correspondents describe. I’ll keep my waist where nature intended it to be, and where art has enhanced it, for my own comfort, and because a certain friend has said he couldn’t survive if it were any bigger or smaller. My waist is just as it was a year and a half ago when I left school, where over three years, it was subtly laced down from twenty to fifteen inches, not only without harming my health but with great satisfaction and comfort to me."

"I do not for a moment deny the truth of your artist correspondent's assertions, for I consider, as every one must, that the proportions of the human body are the most beautiful in creation (where all is beautiful and correct), but the great mistake which so many make is this. In civilised countries the body is always clothed; and that clothing, especially of the ladies of European nations, completely hides the contour of the body. The effect of this is to give great clumsiness to the waist when that part of the person is of its natural size. Let any one make a fair and unprejudiced trial, such as this: let him get a statuette of some celebrated antique, the Venus de Medici or the Greek Slave, and have it dressed in an ordinary dress of the present day, and see what the[181] effect really is. Until fashion, in its ever-changing round, returns to the costume of Ancient Greece or Rome, we can never expect to persuade ladies not to compress their waists merely on the score of beauty; and as several of your correspondents have shown that a moderate compression is not so injurious as some supposed, there is no chance of the corset becoming an obsolete article of female dress. It has been in use for seven or eight hundred years, and now that its form and construction are so much modified and improved, there need be no longer an outcry against it; indeed, outcry has for centuries failed to affect it, though other articles of dress have become in their turn obsolete, a clear proof that there is something more than mere arbitrary fashion in its hold upon the fair sex."

"I don’t doubt the claims made by your artist correspondent for a second because, like everyone else, I believe that the proportions of the human body are the most beautiful things in existence (where everything is beautiful and right). However, the major mistake many people make is this: in civilized countries, the body is almost always covered; and that clothing, especially for the women of European nations, completely hides the body’s shape. This makes the waist appear very awkward even when it’s actually normal. Anyone can test this fairly and objectively: take a figurine of a famous antique, like the Venus de Medici or the Greek Slave, and dress it in a typical modern outfit to see what the effect really is. Until fashion, with its ever-changing trends, goes back to the styles of Ancient Greece or Rome, we can’t expect to convince women not to compress their waists just for the sake of beauty. And since several of your correspondents have shown that moderate compression isn’t as harmful as some thought, there’s little chance that corsets will go out of style. They’ve been used for seven or eight hundred years, and now that their design and construction have been significantly improved, we shouldn’t complain about them anymore. In fact, complaints have failed to change this for centuries, even though other clothing items have fallen out of favor, clearly indicating that there’s something deeper than just fashion keeping corsets popular among women."

"Though the subject on which I propose to address to you a few observations hardly concerns a man, I hope you will allow me a little space in your excellent journal to express my views upon it. I have been much interested by reading the correspondence on the subject of slender waists, and the means used for attaining them. Now, there can be no doubt that gentlemen admire those figures the most which have attained the greatest slenderness. I think there is no more deplorable sight than a large and clumsy waist; and as nature, without assistance from art, seldom produces a really small waist, I think those mothers and schoolmistresses who insist upon their daughters or pupils between the ages of ten and seventeen wearing well-made corsets, and having them tightly laced, confer upon the young ladies a great benefit, which, though they may not appreciate at the time, they will when they go out into society. Certainly some of your correspondents seem to have fallen into the hands of schoolmistresses thoroughly aware of the advantages of a good figure—a waist that two hands can easily clasp is certainly a marvel.[182] I never had the good fortune to see such a one, yet one of your correspondents assures us that her daughter's was no larger than that. Nora, too, says that her waist only measured thirteen inches when she left school; this seems to me to be miraculously small. Most gentlemen do not think much about the means used for attaining a fashionable figure, and I should not have done so either if I had not heard it a good deal discussed in my family, where my sisters were never allowed to lace at all tightly, the consequence of which is, that now that they are grown up they have very clumsy figures, much to their regret; but it is too late to alter them now. As doctors seem to think that the dangers of tight-lacing have been much exaggerated, and as I know many ladies with very slender waists enjoying quite as good health as their more strongly built sisters, I would urge upon all who wish to have good figures not to be deterred by alarmists from endeavouring gradually to attain an elegant shape."

"Even though the topic I want to discuss isn’t typically a guy’s subject, I hope you'll allow me some space in your amazing journal to share my thoughts. I've been really interested in the conversations about slim waists and the methods used to achieve them. It’s clear that men are most attracted to slim figures. I think nothing is more unfortunate than a large, awkward waist; and since nature rarely produces a genuinely small waist without some help, I believe that mothers and teachers who encourage their daughters or students aged ten to seventeen to wear well-made corsets and lace them tightly are providing a significant advantage. While young women may not appreciate it at the moment, they will once they enter society. Some of your correspondents seem influenced by those teachers who understand the benefits of having a good figure—a waist that two hands can easily grasp is definitely impressive.[182] I've never been lucky enough to see one like that, but one of your correspondents assures us that her daughter's waist was that size. Nora also mentions that her waist was only thirteen inches when she finished school; that seems incredibly small to me. Most men don’t really think much about how to achieve a fashionable figure, and I wouldn’t have either if it hadn’t been a popular topic in my family, where my sisters were never allowed to lace tightly. As a result, now that they’re adults, they have very awkward figures, which they regret, but it's too late to change that. Since doctors seem to believe the dangers of tight-lacing are often exaggerated, and I know many women with very slim waists who are just as healthy as their sturdier counterparts, I want to encourage anyone who aspires to have a good figure not to be discouraged by alarmists from gradually working toward an elegant shape."

"From the absence of any correspondence on the all-important topic of tight-lacing in your August number, I very much fear that the subject has come to an end. If so, many other subscribers besides myself will be very sorry for it. I cannot tell you what pleasure it gave me to see the sentiments that were expressed by so many who, like myself, are[183] addicted to the practice of tight-lacing, and as for many years I have been in the habit of lacing extremely tight, I trust that you will allow me, by inserting this or part of it, to make known that I have never suffered any pain or illness from it. In the days when I was a schoolgirl, stays were worn much stiffer and higher than the flimsy things now used, and were, besides, provided with shoulder-straps, so that to be very tightly incased in them was a much more serious affair than at the present day.[3] But, nevertheless, I remember our governess would insist on the greatest possible amount of constriction being used, and always twice a day our stays were tightened still more. A great amount of exercise was inculcated, which perhaps did away with any ill effects this extreme tight-lacing might have occasioned, but while at school I imbibed a liking for the practice, and have ever since insisted on my maid lacing me as tightly as she possibly can. I quite agree with Staylace in saying that to be tightly laced in a pair of tight-fitting stays is a most superb sensation. My two daughters, aged respectively sixteen and eighteen, are brought up in the same way, and would not consider themselves properly dressed unless their stays were drawn together. They can bear me out in my favourable opinion of tight-lacing, and their good health speaks volumes in its praise. I hope, madam, you will kindly insert this letter in your valuable and largely-circulated magazine."

"Since there hasn't been any conversation about tight-lacing in your August issue, I'm worried the topic might be finished. If that's true, many other subscribers besides me will be really disappointed. I can't express how much joy it brought me to see so many others sharing their thoughts on tight-lacing, just like I do. I've been tightly lacing for many years, and I’d appreciate it if you could publish this letter or part of it to state that I have never experienced any pain or health issues from it. Back when I was in school, corsets were much stiffer and higher than the lightweight versions used today, and they even had shoulder straps, making tight-lacing a more serious matter than it is now. However, I remember our governess always insisting on the tightest possible lacing, and twice a day our corsets were pulled even tighter. We were encouraged to exercise a lot, which may have countered any negative effects from such extreme tight-lacing, but during that time, I developed a fondness for it and have insisted that my maid lace me as tightly as she can ever since. I completely agree with Staylace that being tightly laced in a well-fitted corset feels amazing. My two daughters, who are sixteen and eighteen, are raised the same way and wouldn’t feel properly dressed without their corsets pulled tight. They can confirm my positive view on tight-lacing, and their good health speaks volumes in its favor. I hope you will kindly publish this letter in your highly-regarded and widely-read magazine."

"As you have given your readers the benefit of Another Correspondent's excellent letter will you kindly allow another member of the sterner sex to give his opinion on the subject of small waists? Those who have endeavoured to abolish this most becoming fashion have not hesitated to declare that gentlemen do not care for a slender figure, but that, on the contrary, their only feeling on beholding a waist of eighteen inches is one of pity and contempt. Now so far from this being the case, there is not one gentleman in a thousand who is not charmed with the sight. Elderly gentlemen, no doubt, may be found who look upon such things as 'vanity and vexation of spirit;' but is it for these that young ladies usually cultivate their charms? There is one suggestion I should be glad to make if you will permit me, and that is that all those ladies who possess that most elegant attraction, a slender waist, should not hide it so completely by shawls or loose paletots when on the promenade or in the street. When by good-luck I chance to meet a lady who has the good taste, I may say the kindness, to show her tapering waist by wearing a close-fitting paletot, I not unfrequently turn to admire, and so far from thinking of the means used to obtain the result, I am held spellbound by the beauty of the figure."

"Since you've shared the excellent letter from Another Correspondent with your readers, would you mind letting another guy share his thoughts on the subject of small waists? Those who have tried to dismiss this appealing trend often claim that men don’t care about a slim figure. On the contrary, they say that when men see an eighteen-inch waist, their reaction is one of pity and disdain. However, that’s far from the truth; there isn’t a single guy in a thousand who isn’t captivated by the sight. Older gentlemen might see these trends as 'vanity and frustration,' but are they the ones for whom young women usually enhance their beauty? I have a suggestion, if you’re open to it: all those ladies with the lovely allure of a slender waist shouldn’t completely hide it with shawls or loose coats when out and about. Whenever I come across a lady who has the refined taste, or I might say the grace, to show off her tapered waist by wearing a fitted coat, I can’t help but turn and admire. Instead of thinking about the methods used to achieve such a look, I’m completely enchanted by the beauty of her figure."

"I have read with much interest the correspondence on the above subject in the Englishwoman's Conversazione for several months past, having accidentally met with one of the numbers of your magazine in a[185] friend's house, and have since regularly taken it, although not previously a subscriber. As an ardent admirer of small waists in ladies, I wish to record for the satisfaction of those who possess them the fact, which is sometimes disputed, that the pains bestowed in attaining a slender figure are not in vain so far as we gentlemen are concerned, and some of us are positively absurd in our excessive admiration of this particular female beauty. Poets and novelists are perpetually introducing heroines with tiny waists and impossible feet, and if they are to portray female loveliness in all its attributes, they could not well omit two such essential points, and I take it their ideal is not an unfair criterion of the taste of the public at large. I am delighted to learn from very clear evidence put forward by your many correspondents that 'small waists' are attainable by most ladies at little or no inconvenience, and that those of the clumsier build are willing to suffer a certain amount of pain if necessary in reducing their bulky figures to graceful proportions, and, above all, that this can be done without injury to health, for after all it would be a dearly-purchased charm if health were sacrificed. Some fifteen or twenty years ago, I recollect the word 'stays' was uttered as though a certain amount of disgrace attached to the wearer, and 'tight-lacing' was looked on as a crime; but I am glad to see that a reaction is setting in, and that ladies are not afraid to state openly that 'they lace very tightly,' and many of them declare the sensation of being laced as tightly as possible as positively a pleasurable one. I may say that personally I feel that every lady of my acquaintance, or with whom I may come in contact, who does so places me under a direct obligation. I will go further than your correspondent, A Young Baronet, and say that whenever I meet a young lady who possesses the charm of a small waist, and has the good taste to wear the tight-fitting dress now fashionable for the promenade, I make it a point to see her pretty figure more than once, and have often gone considerably out of my way to do so. Although married years and years ago, I am still a slave to a 'little waist,' and I[186] am proud to say my wife humours my whim, and her waist is decidedly a small one. I will, therefore, add my experience to that of others (more competent to give an opinion, having experienced tight-lacing in their own proper persons), and state that she never enjoyed better health than when her waist was the smallest, and I shall be much disappointed if her daughters, when they 'come out' do not emulate their mother's slender figure. By keeping your Conversazione open to the advocates of tight-lacing, and thoroughly ventilating the subject, you will, in my opinion, confer a benefit on the rising generation of young ladies, whose mammas, in too many instances, are so prejudiced against the use of the corset that they permit their daughters to grow up into clumsy, awkward young women, to their own disgust and great detriment in the matrimonial market.

"I've been really interested in the discussions about this topic in the Englishwoman's Conversazione for several months now. I found an issue of your magazine at a friend's house and have been a regular reader ever since, even though I wasn't a subscriber before. As a passionate admirer of small waists in women, I want to reassure those lucky enough to have them that the effort put into achieving a slim figure is not wasted as far as we gentlemen are concerned. Many of us can be quite amusing in our strong admiration for this aspect of female beauty. Poets and novelists frequently feature heroines with tiny waists and small feet, and if their goal is to portray female beauty in all its forms, they definitely wouldn't overlook these essential traits. I believe their ideal reflects the general taste of the public. I'm excited to see from the convincing evidence provided by your many correspondents that 'small waists' are attainable for most women with little or no discomfort. Moreover, women with sturdier builds are willing to endure some pain if necessary to shape their heavier figures into more graceful forms. Most importantly, this can be achieved without harming their health, as it wouldn't be worth it if health was compromised for beauty. About fifteen or twenty years ago, I remember that the term 'stays' was often associated with a kind of shame, and 'tight-lacing' was seen as a terrible offense. However, I'm happy to see a change happening where women are more open about saying that 'they lace very tightly,' with many even claiming that the sensation of being laced as tightly as possible is quite pleasurable. Personally, I feel that any woman I know, or meet, who engages in this imposes a direct obligation on me. I would go further than your correspondent, A Young Baronet, and say that whenever I meet a young lady who has the attractive feature of a small waist and has the good sense to wear the fitted dress currently in style for outings, I make sure to admire her lovely figure more than once, and I often go out of my way to do so. Even though I got married many years ago, I still find myself enchanted by a 'little waist,' and I’m proud to say my wife satisfies my preference, as her waist is quite small. So, I’ll add my thoughts to those of others (who are more qualified to share an opinion, having experienced tight-lacing themselves), noting that she has never been healthier than when her waist was at its slimmest. I would be very disappointed if her daughters, when they 'come out,' do not aspire to achieve their mother’s slender figure. By keeping your Conversazione open to supporters of tight-lacing and thoroughly discussing the topic, I believe you'll greatly benefit the next generation of young women, whose mothers, in many cases, are so biased against corsets that they let their daughters grow into clumsy, awkward young ladies, which is both disappointing for them and a major disadvantage in the marriage market."

"I am, madam, your obedient servant,

"I am, ma'am, your obedient servant,

"Benedict."

"Benedict."

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CHAPTER IX.

The elegance of dress mainly dependent on the Corset—Fashion and dress of 1865—The short-waisted dresses and trains of 1867—Tight Corsets needed for short waists—Letter on the figure—Description of a peculiar form of Corset worn by some ladies of fashion in France—Proportions of the figure and size of the waist considered—The point at which the waist should be formed—Remarks of the older writers on stays—Corsets and high-heeled shoes denounced—Alarming diseases said to be produced by wearing high-heeled shoes—Mortality amongst the female sex not on the increase—Extraordinary statistics of the Corset trade—The Corset of the present day contrasted with that of the olden time.

The elegance of a dress largely hinges on the corset—fashion and attire from 1865—The short-waisted dresses and trains of 1867—Tight corsets are essential for short waists—A letter discussing body shape—A description of a unique type of corset worn by some fashionable women in France—Consideration of body proportions and waist size—The ideal point for waist formation—Comments from older writers on stays—Criticism of corsets and high-heeled shoes—Concerns over health issues reportedly caused by wearing high-heeled shoes—Mortality rates among women are not rising—Remarkable statistics regarding the corset industry—A comparison of today's corsets to those of the past.

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CHAPTER X.

Remarks on front-fastening stays—Thomson's glove-fitting Corsets—Plan for adding stability to the front-fastening Corset—De la Garde's French Corset—System of self-measurement—The Redresseur Corset of Vienna and its influence on the figures of young persons—Remarks on the flimsy materials used in the manufacture of Corsets—Hints as to proper materials—The "Minet Back" Corset described—Elastic Corsets condemned—The narrow bands used as substitutes for Corsets injurious to the figure—Remarks on the proper application of the Corset with the view to the production of a graceful figure—Thomson's Zephyrina Crinoline—Costume of the present season—The claims of Nature and Art considered—The belle of Damara Land.

Comments on front-fastening corsets—Thomson's glove-fitting corsets—Ideas for making front-fastening corsets more stable—De la Garde's French Corset—Self-measurement system—The Redresseur Corset from Vienna and its impact on the body shapes of young people—Comments on the weak materials used to make corsets—Suggestions for appropriate materials—Description of the "Minet Back" Corset—Critique of elastic corsets—The negative effects of narrow bands used as substitutes for corsets on body shape—Advice on how to properly use a corset to achieve a graceful figure—Thomson's Zephyrina Crinoline—Fashion of the current season—Evaluation of the claims of Nature and Art—The beauty of Damara Land.

"As one of your correspondents recommends the waistbands in lieu of corsets, I have during the last three weeks made a trial of them, and shall be glad if you will allow me to express my opinion that they are not only disadvantageous but positively dangerous to the figure. Your correspondent says that ordinary corsets, if drawn in well at the waist, hurt a woman cruelly all the way up. I can only say that if she finds such to be the case the remedy is in her own hands. If ladies would only take the trouble to have their stays made to measure for them, and have plenty of room allowed round the chest, not only would the waist look smaller, but no discomfort would be felt such as H. W. describes. Young girls should always be accurately fitted, but it is, I have found, a mistake to have their corsets too flimsy or elastic. I quite agree that they should be commenced early—indeed, they usually are so, and thus extreme compression being unnecessary, the instances brought forward by the lady who commenced the discussion and by Nora must, I think, be looked upon as exceptional cases.

"As one of your correspondents suggests using waistbands instead of corsets, I’ve tried them for the past three weeks, and I want to share my opinion that they’re not only ineffective but actually harmful to your figure. Your correspondent claims that regular corsets, when tightened around the waist, cause significant pain all the way up. I can only say that if she feels this way, the solution is within her control. If women would simply take the time to have their corsets custom-fitted and allow enough room around the chest, not only would their waist look smaller, but they wouldn’t feel the discomfort that H. W. mentions. Young girls should always be fitted accurately, but I’ve found that making their corsets too flimsy or stretchy is a mistake. I completely agree that they should start wearing them early—indeed, they usually do—so extreme compression isn’t needed. Therefore, I believe the situations raised by the woman who started this discussion and by Nora should be seen as exceptions."

"Effie Margetson."

"Effie Margetson."

Another lady writing in the same journal says—"No one will grudge 'The Young Lady Herself' any sympathy she may claim for the torture she has submitted to, but so far from her case being condemnatory of stays it is the reverse, for she candidly admits that she does not suffer ill-health. Now such a case as hers is an exception, and the stout young lady spoken of by Nora is also an exception, for it is seldom that girls are allowed to attain the age of fourteen or fifteen before commencing stays. The great secret is to begin their use as early as possible, and no such severe compression will be requisite. It seems absurd to allow the waist to grow large and clumsy, and then to[215] reduce it again to more elegant proportions by means which must at first be more or less productive of inconvenience. There is no article of civilised dress which, when first begun to be worn, does not feel uncomfortable for a time to those who have never worn it before. The barefooted Highland lassie carries her shoes to the town, puts them on on her arrival, and discards them again directly she leaves the centre of civilisation. A hat or a coat would be at first insupportable to the men of many nations, and we all know how soon the African belle threw aside the crinoline she had been induced to purchase. But surely no one would argue against these necessary articles of dress merely on the ground of inconvenience to the wearer, for, however uncomfortable they may be at first, it is astonishing how soon that feeling goes off and how indispensable they become. My opinion is that stays should always be made to order, and not be of too flimsy a construction. I think H. W.'s suggestions regarding the waistbands only applicable to middle-aged ladies or invalids, as they do not give sufficient support to growing girls, and are likely to make the figure look too much like a sack tied round the middle instead of gradually tapering to the waist. Brisbane's letter shows how those who have never tried tight-lacing are prejudiced against it, and that merely from being shown a print in an old medical work, while Nora's letter is infinitely more valuable, as showing how even the most extreme lacing can be employed without injury to health.

Another woman writing in the same journal says, "No one will deny 'The Young Lady Herself' any sympathy she seeks for the suffering she has gone through, but her situation doesn't argue against corsets; in fact, it supports them because she clearly states that she doesn't suffer from poor health. Her case is an exception, just like the stout young lady mentioned by Nora, as it's unusual for girls to wait until they're fourteen or fifteen to start wearing corsets. The main point is to start wearing them as early as possible so that no extreme compression is needed. It seems silly to let the waist become large and awkward, then try to reshape it to a more elegant form using methods that are uncomfortable at first. No piece of modern clothing feels normal at first for those who haven't worn it before. The barefoot Highland girl carries her shoes to town, puts them on when she arrives, and quickly takes them off as soon as she leaves civilization. A hat or coat would be unbearable at first for many men from different cultures, and we all know how quickly the African beauty discarded the crinoline she was convinced to buy. But surely no one would argue against these essential items of clothing just because they're uncomfortable at first; it’s surprising how quickly that discomfort fades and how essential they become. I believe corsets should always be custom-made and not too flimsy. I find H. W.'s suggestions about waistbands are only suitable for middle-aged women or those with health issues, as they don't provide enough support for growing girls and make the figure look too much like a sack tied around the middle instead of tapering gradually. Brisbane's letter shows how those who have never tried tight-lacing hold biases against it based only on a drawing from an old medical book, while Nora's letter is much more valuable because it demonstrates how even the most extreme lacing can be used without harming health."

"L. Thompson."

"L. Thompson."

"In the numerous communications on the subject of tight-lacing which have appeared in the Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, but little has been said on the best mode of applying the corset in order to produce elegance of figure. It seems to me that nearly all those who suffer from tight-lacing do so from an injudicious use of the corset, and in such cases the unfortunate corset generally gets all the blame, and not the wearer who makes an improper use of it. I can easily understand that a girl who is full grown, or nearly so, and who has been unaccustomed to wear tight stays, should find it difficult and painful to lace in her waist to a fashionable size; but if the corset be worn at an early age and the figure gradually moulded by it, I know of no terrible consequences that need be apprehended. I would therefore recommend the early use of a corset that fits the figure nicely and no more. Now, simply wearing stays that only fit, will, when a girl is growing, in a great measure prevent the waist from becoming clumsy. If, however, on her reaching the age of fourteen or fifteen, her waist be still considered too large, a smaller corset may be worn with advantage, which should be gradually tightened till the requisite slimness is achieved. I know of so many instances in which, under this system, girls have, when full grown, possessed both a good figure and good health, that I can recommend it with confidence to those parents who wish their children to grow up into elegant and healthy women. As to whether compression of the waist by symmetrical corsets injures the health in any way, opinion seems to be divided. The personal experiences of tight-lacers, as your correspondent Belle has observed, will do more to solve this knotty question than any amount of theory. But whatever conclusion we may come to on this point, there is no denying the fact that very many of the strongest and healthiest women one sees in society habitually practise tight-lacing, and apparently do so with impunity.

"In the many discussions about tight-lacing in the Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, not much has been said about the best way to wear a corset for an elegant figure. It seems to me that most people who struggle with tight-lacing do so because of an unwise use of the corset, and often the poor corset gets all the blame rather than the user who misuses it. I can easily see how a girl who is fully grown, or almost so, and who hasn't been accustomed to tight stays, might find it difficult and uncomfortable to lace her waist to a fashionable size; however, if a corset is worn from an early age and the figure is gradually shaped by it, I don't believe there are any serious consequences to worry about. Therefore, I suggest starting with a corset that fits the figure well and no more. Simply wearing stays that only fit will greatly help prevent a clumsy waist as a girl matures. However, if, by the time she reaches fourteen or fifteen, her waist still seems too large, a smaller corset can be worn to great advantage, which should be gradually tightened until the desired slimness is achieved. I know of many cases where, with this method, girls have grown up with both a good figure and good health, so I confidently recommend it to parents who want their children to become elegant and healthy women. As for whether waist compression from fashionable corsets harms health at all, opinions seem to vary. The personal experiences of tight-lacers, as your correspondent Belle has noted, will provide more insight on this complex issue than any amount of theory. But regardless of what conclusions we reach, it's clear that many of the strongest and healthiest women in society routinely practice tight-lacing and appear to do so without any negative effects."

"An Old Subscriber."

"An Old Subscriber."

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INDEX.

• Adventure, an, of Louise de Lorraine, 92, 97.
• Alarming diseases said to be produced by wearing high-heeled shoes, 194, 195.
• Ancient inhabitants of Polenqui, reduction of the waist by, 10.
• An Italian duchess, the costume of, 54.
• Antiquities of Egypt, researches among, 25-27
• Augsburg, the ladies of, by Hoechstetterus, 104.
• Austria, Empress of, elegant figure of, 165.

• Backboards and stocks, 134.
• Bands (narrow), used as substitutes for corsets injurious, 213, 214.
• Barbers, an army of, 110.
• Beauties of Circassia, 13, 14.
• Beauty, Hindoo ideas regarding, 19, 20.
• Belles of India, 19, 20.
• Belt (ornamented) of the Indians, 9.
• Bernaise dress, 65.
• Blanche, daughter of Edward III., dress of, 49.
• Boarding-school discipline, letter on, 170, 171.
• Boddice, bodice, or bodies, 123.
• Bonnet à canon, the, 60.
• Bouffant sleeves of the reign of Henry II., 65.
• Bridal dress of an Israelitish lady, 28.
• Buchan, writings of, 130.

• Ceylon, figure-training in, 13.
• Chaucer's writings, his admiration of small waists, 50.
• Chinese gentleman, letter from a, 20.
• Cleopatra and her jewels, 37.
• Clumsy figures great drawbacks to young ladies, 182.
• Conquest of the Roman Empire, 38.
• Corps, the, 72, 75.
• Corset, a peculiar form of, worn by some ladies of fashion in France, 190.
• Corset in use among the Israelitish ladies, 28, 29.
• Corset, general use of the, on the Continent for boys, 136-138.
• Corset, origin of, 9.
• Corset, use of by the inhabitants of the Eastern Archipelago, 10.
• Corset-covers (steel), 75.
• Corsets and high-heeled shoes denounced, 194, 195.
• Corsets, custom of wearing during sleep, 150, 153.
• Corsets for growing girls, remarks on, 167, 168.
• Corsets of the present day contrasted with those of the olden time, 196.
• Corsets, remarks on the proper application of, 214-216.
• Corsets, severe form of, worn in the Elizabethan period, 75, 76.
• Corsets, the small size of, made in London, 165.
• Corsets, their use for youths, 138.
• Corsets worn by gentlemen in 1265, 46.
• Corsets worn by gentlemen of the present time, 138.
• Costume à l'enfant, 98.
• Costume à la Watteau, 109.
• Costume of the court of Louis XVI., 124.
• Costumes of the ladies of Israel, 27-29.
• Cottes hardies, 41.
• Crim Tartary, beautiful princesses of, 14, 19.
• Crinoline among the South Sea Islanders, 143.
• Crinoline and slender waists, remarks of Madame La Sante on, 143, 144.
• Crinoline not a new term, 143.
• Cromwell's time, tight-lacing in, 104.

• De La Garde's French corsets, 209, 210.
• Demon of fashion, a monkish satire, 42.
• Determined tailor, a, 55.
• Dress in 1776, 129.
• Dress, its elegance dependent on the corset, 189.
• Dresses (low) of 1713 115.
• Dunbar's Thistle and Rose, 50.

• Earth-eating in Java,[226] 13.
• Eastern Archipelago, use of the corset in, 10.
• Edict of the Emperor Joseph of Austria forbidding the use of stays, 66.
• Edinburgh, Traditions of, anecdote from, 144.
• Egyptian fashions and costumes, 25-27.
• Elastic corsets condemned, 213.
• Eleanor, Countess of Leicester, entry in household register of, 45, 46.
• Elegance of figure highly esteemed by the Persians, 20.
• Elegant costumes of the ancient Jewish ladies, 27-29.
• Empress of Austria, the, portrait of, 166.
• Escapade of young Louis of France, 98.
• Extravagance of the Roman ladies, 36.

• Families, Medici, Este, and Visconti, 54.
• Family man, letter from a, 184, 185.
• Farthingale, the, protest against, 110.
• Fashionable promenades of Ancient Rome, 35.
• Fashion and dress in 1865, 189.
• Fashion in the reign of King Pepin, 41.
• Fashion in 1713, 115.
• Fashions in Ancient Egypt, 27-29.
• Figure, general remarks on the, 182.
• Figure, letter on the, 190-193.
• Figure, reduction of, by the ancient inhabitants of Polenqui, 10.
• Figure-training, 133, 167.
• Food, abstinence from, an assistance to the corset, 144, 149.
• Freaks of fashion in France and Germany, 54.
• French revolutionary period, dress during, 129.
• Front-fastening stays, remarks concerning, 202-204.

• Gay, the writings of, 123.
• Guardian, the, correspondence from, relating to the fashions of 1713, 110, 115, 116, 119, 120, 121, 122, 123.
• Guardian, the, letters from, relating to low dresses and tight stays, 120-123.
• Gustavus Adolphus, the officers of, 135.

• Hair powder, its introduction, 97.
• Henry III. of France a wearer of corsets, 76, 81.
• Hindoo belles 19, 20.
• Hindoo standards of beauty, 19, 20.
• Hogarth, stays drawn by, 129.
• Homer speaks of the corset, 30.

• Improvements in corsets brought about by the advance of civilisation, 10.
• Indian hunting-belt, 9, 10.
• Israelitish ladies, 27-29.

• Jane Shore, penance of, 46-49.
• Java, earth-eating in, 13.
• Jonson (Ben), his remarks on stays, 123.
• Jumpers and Garibaldis, 130.

• King Charles I. of England, fashions of the court of, 103.
• King George III., fashion in the reign of, 135.
• King James and his fondness for dress, 89, 90.
• King Louis XV. of France, fashion in the reign of, 109.
• Kirtle, the, 46.

• Ladies of Old France, 41.
• Lady Morton, diminutive waist of, 166.
• Lady Triamore, daughter of the King of the Fairies, 45.
• Lady's-maid, accomplishments of a, 123.
• Launfal, poem of, 45.
• Lawn ruffs of Queen Bess, 82, 87.
• Laws, sumptuary, relating to dress, 90.
• Letter from a lady, who habitually laces with extreme tightness, in praise of the practice, 182-184.
• Letters from ladies who have been subjected to tight-lacing, 155-164.
• Louis XIV. of France, court of, 98.
• Louis XIV. of France, the court of, high-heeled shoes, slender waists, and fancy costumes, fashionable at, 98.
• Louise de Lorraine, fête dress of, 97.
• Louise de Lorraine, strange freaks of, 92, 97.

• Marie d'Anjou, costume of, 54.
• Marie de Medici and the costumes of her time, 97.
• Marie Stuart, costume of, 159.
• Medical evidence in favour of stays, 134, 135.
• Medical man, letter from, in favour of moderately tight lacing,[227] 154, 155.
• Minet back corset described, 213.
• Mitra used by the Grecian ladies, 33.
• Mode of adding stability to the front-fastening corset, 209.
• Mortality among the female sex not on the increase, 195.

• Old authors, their remarks on stays, 194.

• Peplus, the, 33.
• Proportions of the figure and size of waist considered, 193.
• Puritanism, its effect on fashion, 104.

• Queen Anne, fashions during the reign of, 110.
• Queen Catherine de Medici and Queen Elizabeth of England, 72, 75.
• Queen Elizabeth's collection of false hair, 87, 88.
• Queen newspaper, letter from, on small waists, 165-168.

• Redresseur corset of Vienna, 210.
• Remarks on the changes of fashion, 143.
• Remarks on the flimsy materials used in making some modern corsets, 210.
• Revival of the taste for small waists in Old France, 41.
• Roman baths, 34, 35.
• Royal standard of fashionable slenderness 72.

• Scotland, small waists admired in, in olden times, 50.
• Scriptural references, 29.
• Selby, Mrs., the invention of, reviewed, 217.
• Self-measurement, remarks concerning, 209.
• Short waists and long trains, 129.
• Siamese dress, the, 98.
• Side-arms of the Elizabethan period, 91.
• Snake-toed shoes, long sleeves, and high-heeled slippers, 59.
• Starching, the art of, 82.
• Statistics, extraordinary, of the corset trade, 195.
• Statue, a fashionably dressed, 180.
• Stays, formidable kind of, in use in 1776, 129.
• Stays, the general use of the word after 1600 in England, 124.
• Stays worn habitually by gentlemen, 135.
• Strophium, the use of, by the ladies of Rome, 33.
• Stubs, Philip, on the ruff, 87-89.
• Stubs, his indignation, 88, 89.

• Taper waists and figure-training in Ancient Rome, 38.
• Terentius, strictures and remarks of, 30.
• Thirteenth century, the small waists of, 42.
• Thomson's glove-fitting corsets, 204, 205.
• Tight corsets, letter in praise of, 182, 183.
• Tight corsets needed for short waists, 190.
• Tight-lacing revived, 130.
• Toilet of a Roman lady of fashion, 34-36.

• United States of America, belles of the, 153.

• Venice, fashions of the ladies of, 82, 87.
• Venus de Medici, waist of, contrasted with the waist of fashion, 180.
• Venus, the cestus of, 30.
• Vienna, slender waists the fashion in, 165.
• Voluminous nether-garments of the gentlemen of the Elizabethan period, 82.

• Waist, the point at which it should be formed, 193, 194.

• Young Baronet, letter from 184.

• Zephyrina jupon of Thomson and Co., 221.

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