This is a modern-English version of The Homing Pigeon, originally written by United States. War Department, United States. Army. Signal Corps. It has been thoroughly updated, including changes to sentence structure, words, spelling, and grammar—to ensure clarity for contemporary readers, while preserving the original spirit and nuance. If you click on a paragraph, you will see the original text that we modified, and you can toggle between the two versions.

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WAR DEPARTMENT TECHNICAL MANUAL
TM 11-410

WAR DEPARTMENT TECHNICAL MANUAL
TM 11-410

This manual supersedes TM 11—410, 10 September 1940

This manual replaces TM 11—410, September 10, 1940

THE HOMING
PIGEON

war office emblem

WAR DEPARTMENT • JANUARY 1945


DISSEMINATION OF RESTRICTED MATTER.
The information contained in restricted documents and the essential characteristics of restricted material may be given to any person known to be in the service of the United States and to persons of undoubted loyalty and discretion who are cooperating in Government work, but will not be communicated to the public or to the press except by authorized military public relations agencies. (See also par. 23b, AR 380-5, 15 Mar 44.)

DISSEMINATION OF RESTRICTED MATTER.
The information in restricted documents and the key features of restricted material can be shared with anyone known to be in the service of the United States, as well as with individuals of proven loyalty and discretion who are assisting with Government work. However, this information will not be shared with the public or the press except by authorized military public relations agencies. (See also par. 23b, AR 380-5, 15 Mar 44.)


U. S. Government Printing Office
Washington: 1945

U.S. Government Printing Office
Washington: 1945


WAR DEPARTMENT       
Washington 25, D. C., 1 January 1945

WAR DEPARTMENT       
Washington 25, D. C., January 1, 1945

TM 11-410, The Homing Pigeon, is published for the information and guidance of all concerned.

TM 11-410, The Homing Pigeon, is published for the information and guidance of everyone involved.

[AG 300.7 (6 Nov 44)]
By order of the Secretary of War:

[AG 300.7 (6 Nov 44)]
By the directive of the Secretary of War:

G. C. MARSHALL
Chief of Staff

G.C. Marshall
Chief of Staff

Official:
J. A. ULIO
Major General
The Adjutant General

Official:
J. A. ULIO
MG
The Adjutant General

Distribution:

Distribution:

AAF (10); AGF (10); ASF (10); Arm & Sv Bd (2); Dept (10); Tech Sv (2); Sv C (10); PC & S (1); Gen & Sp Sv Sch (10); USMA (1); ROTC (1); ROTC, Lib (1); A(10); CHQ (10); D(2); Bn(1); Bn 11(2); C 11(5); T/O & E 11-39 (50)

AAF (10); AGF (10); ASF (10); Arm & Sv Bd (2); Dept (10); Tech Sv (2); Sv C (10); PC & S (1); Gen & Sp Sv Sch (10); USMA (1); ROTC (1); ROTC, Lib (1); A(10); CHQ (10); D(2); Bn(1); Bn 11(2); C 11(5); T/O & E 11-39 (50)

For explanation of symbols, see FM 21-6.

For an explanation of symbols, see FM 21-6.


CONTENTS

★ ★

★ ★

  Paragraph Page
SECTION I. GENERAL  
  Purpose   1   1
  Methods   2   1
  Origin and history   3   1
  Nature   4   1
  Utility   5   2
  II. DESCRIPTION
  General appearance   6   3
  Weight   7   3
  Plumage   8   3
  Head   9   3
  Neck 10   3
  Body 11   3
  Respiratory channels 12   5
  Digestive organs 13   6
  Bloom or milt 14   6
  Molt 15   8
  Varieties of feathers 16   9
  III. CARE
  Loft 17 11
  Preparation of loft to receive pigeons 18 11
  Receipt of pigeons at loft 19 11
  Watering 20 14
  Feeding 21 15
  Pigeon feed 22 16
  Bathing 23 25
  Catching and handling 24 25
  IV. LOFT MANAGEMENT AND RECORDS
  Routine 25 28
  Classification of pigeon colors 26 28
  Records and reports 27 29
  Banding 28 37
  Loft equipment 29 39
  Message holders 30 42
  V. TRAINING
  Responsibility for training 31 45
  Qualifications for pigeoneers 32 45
  Introduction to pigeon training 33 46
  Settling pigeons 34 46
  Training for messenger service 35 50
  Delivering pigeons by parachute 36 58
  VI. MATING AND BREEDING
  Mating 37 62
  Sex 38 62
  Selection of stock 39 62
  Line breeding 40 64
  Nests 41 64
  Control of breeding 42 64
  Laying 43 65
  Hatching and feeding 44 65
  Identification 45 65
  Culling 46 65
  VII. DISEASES AND MEDICINES
  General 47 67
  Prevention of disease 48 67
  Control of disease 49 67
  Anatomy and physiology 50 68
  Indications of sickness 51 69
  Diseases 52 69
  External parasites 53 73
  Internal parasites 54 77
  Treatment of injuries 55 81
  Medicines 56 82

This manual supersedes TM 11-140, 10 September 1940

This manual replaces TM 11-140, September 10, 1940

SECTION I

GENERAL

1. Purpose

This manual provides instructions for proper breeding, care, and training of the homing pigeon, and for the selection and training of enlisted pigeoneers. With certain modifications this information can be used by all pigeon units serving field forces, both in theaters of operations and in the zone of the interior. Instructions in FM 24-5 for units using the homing pigeon in communication have not been repeated. The mission, function, and operation of a signal pigeon company and the tactical employment of pigeons are described in FM 11-80.

This manual offers guidance on breeding, caring for, and training homing pigeons, as well as on selecting and training enlisted pigeon handlers. With some adjustments, this information can be utilized by all pigeon units supporting field forces, both in operational areas and within the homeland. The instructions in FM 24-5 for units using homing pigeons for communication are not repeated here. The mission, function, and operation of a signal pigeon company, along with the tactical use of pigeons, are detailed in FM 11-80.

2. Methods

The methods prescribed in this manual are based upon experience. Accordingly, if any new procedures are found by experience to improve pigeon communication they should be submitted to the Chief Signal Officer for consideration.

The methods outlined in this manual are based on experience. Therefore, if any new procedures are discovered through experience that enhance pigeon communication, they should be submitted to the Chief Signal Officer for review.

3. Origin and History

The homing pigeon used by the Army for signal communication (referred to in this manual as “pigeon,” “homing pigeon,” and “bird”) is a distinct variety created through careful cross-breeding to obtain maximum distance and speed in controlled and directed flight. Homing pigeons are grouped in families or strains usually identified by the names of the civilian pigeon fanciers who bred them for many generations to develop certain characteristics of performance and appearance. When the several varieties of pigeons used to breed the modern homing pigeon actually originated is not certain. It is known, however, that the following varieties existed in England and Belgium before the nineteenth century, although the exact percentage and order of their blend have not been determined: Smerle, Horseman, Cumulet, Dragoon, Carrier, and Owl.

The homing pigeon used by the Army for communication (referred to in this manual as “pigeon,” “homing pigeon,” and “bird”) is a specific breed developed through careful cross-breeding to achieve maximum distance and speed in controlled flight. Homing pigeons are categorized into families or strains, typically named after the civilian pigeon fanciers who have bred them for generations to enhance specific performance and appearance traits. The exact origins of the various pigeon breeds that led to the modern homing pigeon are not clear. However, it is known that the following breeds were present in England and Belgium before the nineteenth century, although the precise proportions and order of their combination have not been established: Smerle, Horseman, Cumulet, Dragoon, Carrier, and Owl.

4. Nature

The principle of using homing pigeons as messengers is based on their instinctive attempt to return to their home lofts whenever they are removed some distance and released. They will do this even with an attached message or other light article. This desire to return is largely based on natural urges of hunger and reproduction. Because the pigeon has only one mate the reproductive urge is often the stronger. These impulses can be stimulated by controlled feeding, mating, and breeding without harming the pigeon’s health.

The idea of using homing pigeons as messengers is grounded in their natural instinct to fly back to their home lofts whenever they are taken a certain distance away and let go. They will do this even if they have a message or some lightweight item attached to them. This drive to return is mostly fueled by their basic needs for food and reproduction. Since pigeons typically have just one mate, the urge to reproduce often becomes the dominating factor. These instincts can be encouraged through controlled feeding, mating, and breeding without negatively affecting the pigeon's health.

5. Utility

The pigeon’s usefulness to the Army is measured by the reliability and speed with which it returns to its loft. Speed and reliability are largely determined by the pigeon’s strain, physical condition, training, and treatment. Therefore any lowering of standards for these factors will be a serious handicap. Further handicaps are discussed in e below. Section V sets minimum ability standards for properly-trained, well-bred, healthy birds to be used by combat units as message carriers.

The usefulness of pigeons to the Army is measured by how quickly and reliably they return to their loft. Their speed and reliability largely depend on their breed, physical condition, training, and care. Therefore, relaxing standards for these factors will create serious drawbacks. Additional challenges are discussed in e below. Section V establishes minimum ability standards for properly trained, well-bred, and healthy birds to be used by combat units as message carriers.

a. Breeding. Since physical characteristics and homing instinct are usually inherited from the parents, records are maintained for each pigeon. Then pairs are selected, mated, and allowed to produce young birds on the basis of these records, plus other desirable attributes described in section VI.

a. Breeding. Since physical traits and homing ability are typically passed down from the parents, records are kept for each pigeon. Pairs are then chosen, mated, and allowed to have young birds based on these records, along with other desirable qualities mentioned in section VI.

b. Condition. The physical condition of a pigeon greatly affects its performance. Therefore, study physical characteristics of pigeons and enforce procedures prescribed in sections III and VII for feeding, watering, and maintaining proper physical condition.

b. Condition. The physical condition of a pigeon significantly impacts its performance. So, examine the physical traits of pigeons and follow the guidelines in sections III and VII for feeding, watering, and ensuring proper physical condition.

c. Training. Training of the pigeon begins at an early age, and is progressive and constant. The object is to settle the pigeon in its home loft in order to develop reliability and speed as described in section V.

c. Training. Training of the pigeon starts at a young age and continues steadily. The goal is to establish the pigeon in its home loft to enhance its reliability and speed as described in section V.

d. Treatment. The pigeon is highly sensitive and responsive to kindness, firmness, reward for good performance, and calmness of personnel handling it. Make the loft as attractive as possible because the pigeon prizes its home.

d. Treatment. The pigeon is very sensitive and responds well to kindness, firmness, rewards for good behavior, and the calmness of those handling it. Make the loft as appealing as you can because the pigeon values its home highly.

e. Handicaps. Bad weather, darkness, and injury, as well as inadequacies in breeding, conditioning, and training, reduce efficiency of pigeons (see par. 9c).

e. Disabilities. Poor weather, darkness, and injuries, along with shortcomings in breeding, conditioning, and training, decrease the effectiveness of pigeons (see par. 9c).

(1) Bad weather. This includes snow, fog, rain, and adverse winds, or any other conditions which reduce visibility or oppose the flight of the pigeon. Generally, flights may be predicted according to certain atmospheric conditions as follows:

(1) Bad weather. This includes snow, fog, rain, and strong winds, or any other conditions that limit visibility or hinder the flight of the pigeon. Generally, flights can be anticipated based on certain weather conditions as follows:

Conditions Results

Blue sky, high ceiling with white fleecy clouds, and low humidity.

Blue sky, high ceiling with fluffy white clouds, and low humidity.

Very fast speed.

Super fast.

Solid grey or bluish grey sky with low ceiling, no clouds, and high humidity.

Solid gray or blue-gray sky with a low ceiling, no clouds, and high humidity.

Very slow speed, losses may occur.

Very slow speeds can lead to losses.

(2) Darkness. Pigeons never lose their initial fear of flying at night, but it is possible to train them to overcome this fear to a great extent. Their natural instinct and intelligence will come to their aid. Night operation, however, is considered impracticable for the Army pigeons because of the highly mobile tactics of modern warfare.

(2) Darkness. Pigeons never completely shake off their fear of flying at night, but you can train them to manage this fear significantly. Their natural instincts and intelligence will help them. However, using Army pigeons at night is seen as impractical due to the fast-moving tactics of modern warfare.

(3) Injury. Injuries are commonly caused by improper handling, predatory birds (such as hawks), enemy shellfire, or obstacles pigeons strike in flight. Protect pigeons by destroying all hawks in the vicinity of the lofts with shotguns provided for that purpose. Select safe locations for releasing pigeons. Minor injuries rarely prevent a homing pigeon from returning to its loft as long as they do not hamper it from determining the proper course of flight. When vitally injured, the pigeon will continue its return flight until physically exhausted. Any injury which permanently impairs the eyes or wings of a pigeon makes it unsuitable for any employment except breeding.

(3) Injury. Injuries are usually caused by improper handling, predatory birds like hawks, enemy shellfire, or obstacles that pigeons hit while flying. To protect pigeons, eliminate all hawks near the lofts using shotguns designated for that purpose. Choose safe spots for releasing pigeons. Minor injuries rarely stop a homing pigeon from returning to its loft as long as they don’t hinder its ability to navigate the right flight path. When seriously injured, the pigeon will keep flying back until it’s physically worn out. Any injury that permanently damages a pigeon’s eyes or wings makes it unsuitable for anything other than breeding.


SECTION II

DESCRIPTION

6. General Appearance

Pigeons must look healthy, well-balanced, alert, intelligent, and showing abundance of rich feathers and sheen. Figure 1 shows the main parts of the homing pigeon (the right wing is extended for ease of description).

Pigeons should appear healthy, well-proportioned, alert, smart, and have plenty of vibrant feathers with a shiny appearance. Figure 1 illustrates the key features of the homing pigeon (the right wing is extended for clarity).

7. Weight

A cock weighs from 14 to 17 ounces; a hen, from 13 to 16 ounces.

A rooster weighs between 14 and 17 ounces; a hen weighs between 13 and 16 ounces.

8. Plumage

Rich, abundant, and soft plumage should cover the entire body. The color itself is of no importance, but rich shades, with the checkered pattern (if present) standing out brightly and distinctly, usually indicate good health and satisfactory condition. For classification of pigeons according to color see paragraph 26.

Rich, abundant, and soft feathers should cover the entire body. The color itself doesn't matter much, but deep shades, with the checkered pattern (if present) standing out clearly, usually indicate good health and a satisfactory condition. For classifying pigeons by color, see paragraph 26.

9. Head

The head should be of a medium size, round or oval shaped, of broad structure and strongly set. It should not be tight or drawn at any one place.

The head should be medium-sized, round or oval, with a broad structure and well-defined shape. It shouldn't be tight or pulled in any one area.

a. Bill. The bill should be of medium length with small to medium wattles and set well into the head. No openings should be noticeable when the bill is closed.

a. Invoice. The bill should be medium-sized with small to medium wattles and well-integrated into the head. There shouldn't be any visible gaps when the bill is closed.

b. Eye. See section VI.

b. Eye. See __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__.

c. Ear. The ear seems to play an important part in the bird’s sense of direction. It includes three parts: external ear, middle ear, and inner ear. At the top of the inner ear there are three semicircular canals which appear to be the nerve conductors of orientation. Although no one knows just what helps homing pigeons find their loft, it is possible that the great sensitiveness of their ears enables them to receive magnetic and atmospheric impression, and thereby to determine direction either at departure or during flight. This theory is based on the fact that atmospheric disturbances often cause the bird temporarily to lose its way.

c. Ear. The ear plays a crucial role in a bird's sense of direction. It consists of three parts: the outer ear, middle ear, and inner ear. At the top of the inner ear, there are three semicircular canals that seem to serve as the nerve conductors for orientation. While no one knows exactly what helps homing pigeons find their way home, it’s possible that their highly sensitive ears allow them to pick up on magnetic and atmospheric cues, helping them determine direction either when they leave or while they're flying. This theory is supported by the observation that atmospheric disturbances can sometimes cause the bird to temporarily lose its sense of direction.

10. Neck

The neck is of medium length, with no sign of dewlap at the throat. It tapers to a wide, well-sprung chest.

The neck is of medium length, with no sign of loose skin at the throat. It tapers to a broad, well-defined chest.

11. Body

a. Breast. The breast (or chest) is broad and full in front; depth of breastbone should not exceed the width.

a. Breast. The breast (or chest) is wide and rounded in the front; the depth of the breastbone should not be greater than the width.

b. Shoulders. The shoulders are heavy and strongly reinforced with muscles.

b. Shoulders. The shoulders are strong and heavily built with muscles.

c. Back. The back is well-feathered, strong, flat and broad at the shoulders, narrowing toward the rump.

c. Back. The back is well-coated with feathers, strong, flat, and wide at the shoulders, tapering down toward the rear.

TL70171

Figure 1. Parts of homing pigeon.

Figure 1. Parts of a homing pigeon.

d. Keel. The keel is strong, arched in front, and of medium length and depth. Width of keel denotes strength.

d. Keel. The keel is robust, curved at the front, and of average length and depth. The width of the keel indicates its strength.

e. Abdomen. The abdomen is reduced to the smallest proportions.

e. Abdomen. The abdomen is minimized to the smallest size.

f. Wings. The wings must be medium-sized, strong, well-proportioned, and rounded at the butt, with plenty of muscle. Primary flights should be of a good width, with plenty of overlapping space and a pronounced curvature towards the body. See i below. Secondary feathers should also be long and wide to provide a good covering for the entire back. Covert feathers should be sturdy and abundant, because they supply additional wing strength, as well as protect pigeons against adverse weather.

f. Wings. The wings should be medium-sized, strong, well-proportioned, and rounded at the base, with plenty of muscle. The primary feathers should be wide, with lots of overlapping space and a noticeable curve towards the body. See i below. The secondary feathers also need to be long and wide to cover the entire back effectively. The coverts should be robust and plentiful, as they add extra strength to the wings and protect pigeons from bad weather.

g. Pelvic bones. The pelvic bones (or vent bones) are very firm, close together over the vent, and extend toward the keel on each side of the vent. These bones form a body girdle by which the legs are joined to the body.

g. Pelvis. The pelvic bones (or vent bones) are strong, closely positioned around the vent, and stretch toward the keel on either side of the vent. These bones create a body girdle that connects the legs to the body.

h. Rump. The rump is wide and continues the line of the back. It is well covered on all sides with fine, soft feathers.

h. Rump. The rump is broad and follows the contour of the back. It is fully covered on all sides with soft, fine feathers.

i. Tail feathers. The tail feathers, 12 in number, are short, wide, overlapping, and do not extend farther than ¾ inch beyond the wing tips.

i. Tail feathers. The tail feathers, numbering 12, are short, wide, overlapping, and do not extend more than ¾ inch beyond the wing tips.

j. Legs. The legs are of medium length and well muscled. Thighs are chubby. Lower leg is red and stout, and toes are short with firm nails.

j. Legs. The legs are of average length and well-built. The thighs are soft. The lower leg is red and sturdy, and the toes are short with strong nails.

12. Respiratory Channels (fig. 2)

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Figure 2. Respiratory channels of homing pigeon. (Air sacs are named in accordance with McLeod and Wagers. Other names are given in parenthesis.)

Figure 2. Breathing routes of homing pigeons. (Air sacs are named according to McLeod and Wagers. Other names are provided in parentheses.)

Respiratory channels are highly developed, enabling the pigeon to fly continuously from 12 to 15 hours. Air circulates through the bronchial tubes and lungs and also through nine air sacs, from which other small, irregular cavities extend under the skin between the muscles, and even6 into the inside of the bones. These small air sacs contain a reserve of warm air which feeds the lungs during flight when the muscular apparatus consumes a large amount of oxygen. They inflate and collapse alternately, acting as a lift and force pump which renews air in the lungs.

Respiratory systems are highly efficient, allowing pigeons to fly continuously for 12 to 15 hours. Air circulates through the bronchial tubes and lungs, as well as through nine air sacs, with additional small, irregular cavities extending under the skin between the muscles and even6 into the bones. These small air sacs hold a reserve of warm air that supplies the lungs during flight when the muscular system uses a lot of oxygen. They inflate and deflate alternately, functioning as a lift and force pump that refreshes the air in the lungs.

13. Digestive Organs

Digestive organs of the pigeon are shown in figure 3 (for functions see par. 50b).

Digestive organs of the pigeon are shown in figure 3 (for functions see par. 50b).

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Figure 3. Digestive organs of homing pigeon.

Figure 3. Digestive organs of a homing pigeon.

14. Bloom or Milt

This white, chalky powder is one of the means provided by nature to protect feathers against moisture during flight. When the pigeon bathes,7
8
the bloom is deposited in the form of a white scum on the top of the water. If a bird is caught and held closely, the bloom rubs off, leaving a white substance on the clothes. Absence of bloom is a symptom of poor health.

This white, chalky powder is one of nature's ways to help protect feathers from moisture while flying. When the pigeon bathes,7
8
the powder forms a white scum on the surface of the water. If you catch a bird and hold it close, the powder rubs off, leaving a white residue on your clothes. Not having this powder is a sign of poor health.

TL70174

Figure 4. A flight.

Figure 4. A flight.

15. Molt

Molting is nature’s way of shedding feathers and furnishing new ones for the entire body. Thus, feathers lost or injured the preceding year are replenished, and a perfect coat is insured for the coming year. An imperfect molt indicates an unhealthy condition which will reduce the pigeon’s efficiency and result in the breeding of inferior offspring.

Molting is nature's way of dropping old feathers and growing new ones for the entire body. This means that feathers lost or damaged the previous year are replaced, ensuring a perfect coat for the coming year. A poor molt indicates an unhealthy condition, which will decrease the pigeon’s efficiency and lead to the breeding of lesser offspring.

a. Time of molt. Every pigeon should molt once a year. Mated pigeons start molting approximately 1 week after the second set of eggs has been laid in the new season. Unmated old pigeons ordinarily begin molting in May or June. The time young birds molt depends primarily on the date of hatch. Those hatched during the early part of July begin with head and neck feathers very soon after leaving the nest, and later during the year partially molt all feathers. The process is completed the following summer. Various influences hasten or retard molting. For example, exceptionally warm weather may hasten it. Poor health retards and may prevent a complete molt. Early breeding ordinarily hastens the process, while late breeding tends to delay it.

a. Molt time. Every pigeon should molt once a year. Mated pigeons usually start molting about a week after the second set of eggs has been laid in the new season. Unmated older pigeons typically begin molting in May or June. The timing for young birds to molt mainly depends on when they hatched. Those hatched in early July start losing head and neck feathers soon after leaving the nest and later in the year partially molt all their feathers. The process wraps up the following summer. Various factors can speed up or slow down molting. For instance, unusually warm weather can speed it up. Poor health can slow it down and might prevent a complete molt altogether. Early breeding usually speeds up the process, while late breeding tends to delay it.

TL70175

Figure 5. Tail feathers of homing pigeon.

Figure 5. Tail feathers of a homing pigeon.

b. Order of molt. Feathers are shed in the following order (see par. 16 and fig. 1):

b. Moult order. Feathers are shed in this order (see par. 16 and fig. 1):

(1) Primary flight No. 1 is shed first, and new feathers begin to grow in its place.

(1) Primary flight No. 1 is the first to drop, and new feathers start to grow in its place.

(2) As soon as new feathers are one-half to three-quarters grown, remaining primary flights are shed in numerical order.

(2) Once new feathers are half to three-quarters grown, the remaining primary flight feathers are shed in order.

(3) When flights Nos. 5 or 6 have been shed, molt spreads to neck and shoulders.

(3) When flights Nos. 5 or 6 have been lost, molting spreads to the neck and shoulders.

(4) By the time flights Nos. 6 or 7 have been shed, the tail-molt begins with feathers No. 2 (fig. 8), then continues in the following numerical order: 1, 3, 4, 6, and 5.

(4) By the time flights Nos. 6 or 7 have fallen out, the tail-molt starts with feathers No. 2 (fig. 8), then continues in this order: 1, 3, 4, 6, and 5.

(5) When the last flights have been shed, the molt is practically complete, except for a few fine body feathers.

(5) When the last feathers have fallen out, the molt is almost done, except for a few thin body feathers.

c. Care during molt. The molt is a great physical drain on pigeons; therefore, if practicable, hard flying and breeding activities should be temporarily abandoned during this period. Exercise flights should be only as long as is necessary for the pigeon’s health. When weather permits, the birds should be allowed to bathe regularly, because this will soften the skin and help feathers drop. The only sure method of correcting an unsatisfactory molt is to restore the pigeon to a healthy, vigorous physical condition. No attempt should be made to aid the molt by plucking the next feathers in order, as in all probability the new feathers will be inferior, or may not even appear. The substance which creates new feathers is lacking in the sockets for about 2 months after the molt is completed. During the molting period, it is especially necessary that birds be fed rich, oily, easily digested food such as grain (hemp, canary, flax or linseed) and greens. This food will keep weight up to normal and insure a good growth of feathers.

c. Care during molt. The molt is a significant physical strain on pigeons; therefore, if possible, intensive flying and breeding activities should be paused during this time. Exercise flights should only be as long as necessary for the pigeon’s health. When the weather is good, the birds should be allowed to bathe regularly, as this helps soften the skin and promote feather dropping. The only effective way to address a poor molt is to restore the pigeon to a healthy, robust physical condition. There should be no attempts to assist the molt by plucking the next feathers in line, as there's a high chance that the new feathers will be subpar or may not even grow in. The nutrients needed for new feather growth are absent in the follicles for about two months after the molt finishes. During the molting period, it’s particularly important to feed the birds rich, oily, easily digestible foods such as grains (hemp, canary, flax, or linseed) and greens. This will help keep their weight normal and ensure good feather growth.

16. Varieties of Feathers

Feathers grow in definite areas on the body. These feathered areas or strips are known as pterylae. Bare spaces in between are called apterylae. Feathers are divided into four types: contour feathers, hair feathers, fluff feathers, and down feathers.

Feathers grow in specific areas on the body. These feathered areas or strips are called pterylae. The bare spaces in between are referred to as apterylae. Feathers are classified into four types: contour feathers, hair feathers, fluff feathers, and down feathers.

a. Contour feathers. Contour feathers are large feathers covering the pigeon’s body. When the bird is not in flight or excited, they lie close to its body, normally overlapping and presenting a smooth outer surface. The larger ones are the flight and tail feathers. The average pigeon has 12 main tail feathers; on each wing there are 10 primary flights and 12 secondary flights. The bases of these large feathers are covered by shorter feathers called coverts. These give a rounded, smooth, and continuous line to the body.

a. Contour feathers. Contour feathers are the large feathers that cover the pigeon’s body. When the bird is at rest or not agitated, they lie flat against its body, typically overlapping and creating a smooth outer surface. The bigger feathers are the flight and tail feathers. On average, a pigeon has 12 main tail feathers; each wing has 10 primary flight feathers and 12 secondary flight feathers. The bases of these large feathers are covered by shorter feathers known as coverts. These provide a rounded, smooth, and continuous line along the body.

The main tail feathers act as a rudder in flight, controlling the bird’s direction. Flying is possible because every flight feather overlaps, presenting a solid surface on the downbeat of the wing. Besides, flight feathers provide lift and pull for the bird’s propulsion. On the upbeat of the wing, the large flight feathers rotate in such a manner as to cut through the air with little resistance, and at the same time to permit escape of air.

The main tail feathers work like a rudder in flight, steering the bird’s direction. Birds can fly because each flight feather overlaps, creating a solid surface during the downward stroke of the wing. Additionally, flight feathers generate lift and help propel the bird forward. During the upward stroke, the large flight feathers rotate in a way that slices through the air with minimal resistance while also allowing air to escape.

The general structure of a contour feather can be best observed in a primary flight from the wing or a large rectrix from the tail. The stiff, hollow, cylindrical portion emerging from the skin is called the quill. The bare quill proper extends only to the webbed portion of the feather. It has a small hole (inferior umbilicus) at the end, penetrating the skin.10 Nourishment for the feather passes through this opening. The expanded portion of the feather, from the tip to the quill, is known as the vane. The central portion of the vane, which is called the shaft, is solid. Extending laterally from the shaft is a web or webbing composed of barbs or rays. These rays are blade-like in structure. The web of most feathers is generally wider on one side of the shaft than on the other. The barbs are connected by a series of cross structures called barbules which can be seen only with the aid of magnifying lens. To see the barbs, however, apply a slight tension on the webbing of the feather, causing it to spread apart. The invisible barbules will split if too much tension is applied. Barbs can be repaired so that little or no evidence of the split can be detected, by stroking the feather between the index finger and thumb. Pigeons repair a split in the barb by squeezing oil from the oil duct with their beak, and then spreading it on the injured feather.

The basic structure of a contour feather is best seen in a primary flight feather from the wing or a large rectrix from the tail. The stiff, hollow, cylindrical part that comes out of the skin is called the quill. The bare part of the quill extends only to the webbed part of the feather. It has a small hole (inferior umbilicus) at the end that goes into the skin.10 Nutrients for the feather come through this opening. The wider part of the feather, from the tip to the quill, is known as the vane. The central part of the vane, called the shaft, is solid. From the shaft extend laterally a web or webbing made up of barbs or rays. These rays have a blade-like structure. The web of most feathers is usually wider on one side of the shaft than on the other. The barbs are connected by a series of tiny structures called barbules, which can only be seen with a magnifying lens. To see the barbs, you should pull lightly on the webbing of the feather, making it spread apart. The tiny barbules will split if you pull too hard. Barbs can be repaired so that there’s little or no sign of the split by stroking the feather between your index finger and thumb. Pigeons fix a split in the barb by squeezing oil from the oil duct with their beak and then spreading it on the damaged feather.

Feather textures vary greatly with the breed of the bird and the part of the body from which they grow. When selecting homing pigeons, try to select those with strong, firm feathers.

Feather textures differ significantly based on the bird's breed and the area of the body they come from. When choosing homing pigeons, aim for those with strong, firm feathers.

b. Hair feathers. Also known as filoplumes, hair feathers are hair-like structures interspersed among the regular body feathers. They are so fine that they are usually overlooked.

b. Feathered hair. Also called filoplumes, hair feathers are thin, hair-like structures found among the regular body feathers. They're so delicate that people often miss them.

c. Fluff feathers. Sometimes called semiplumes, fluff feathers are soft and fluffy because of the absence of a rigid feather shaft and barbules in their web. The barbs are also long, soft, and fluffy, and present a downy appearance. Fluff feathers grow only on certain parts of the body.

c. Fluff the feathers. Also known as semiplumes, fluff feathers are soft and fluffy due to the lack of a stiff feather shaft and barbules in their structure. The barbs are long, soft, and fluffy, giving them a downy look. Fluff feathers only grow on specific areas of the body.

d. Down feathers. Down feathers are the soft, hairy, yellow feathers on young pigeons. They are extremely fine, almost filamentous in structure. These feathers drop off all through the period of the young bird’s growth; a few, however, may remain after complete feathering has taken place.

d. Down feathers. Down feathers are the soft, fluffy yellow feathers found on young pigeons. They are very fine, almost thread-like in structure. These feathers shed throughout the young bird’s growth, although a few may stick around after it has fully feathered.


SECTION III

CARE

17. Loft

Pigeons are housed in lofts which may be buildings or vehicles designed and equipped for that purpose. The loft includes all the equipment, accessories and utilities necessary for the care of pigeons (figs. 6, 7, and 8). Perches are placed on the sides of loft walls. When a pigeon is “settled” to a loft, that loft becomes its home.

Pigeons are kept in lofts, which can be buildings or vehicles specifically designed and set up for that purpose. The loft contains all the supplies, tools, and utilities needed for taking care of the pigeons (figs. 6, 7, and 8). Perches are installed along the walls of the loft. When a pigeon is “settled” into a loft, that loft becomes its home.

a. An aviary is the part of the loft where pigeons can be given sunlight. It is usually built with wire netting on the sides and roof.

a. An aviary is the area of the loft where pigeons can get sunlight. It's typically constructed with wire mesh on the sides and roof.

b. The trap is a specially constructed opening which permits the pigeon to enter but not to leave the loft. When a pigeon enters the loft this way, it is said to have “trapped.” A trap which permits the pigeon to enter and leave at will is called an “open trap.” A landing board is placed in front of the trap upon which pigeons alight when about to enter the loft.

b. The trap is a specially designed opening that allows the pigeon to enter but not exit the loft. When a pigeon goes in this way, it's referred to as having “trapped.” A trap that lets the pigeon come and go freely is called an “open trap.” A landing board is positioned in front of the trap where pigeons perch before entering the loft.

c. A settling cage of wire which is built to fit over the roof and landing board of the loft, is used to aid in settling and training pigeons to trap.

c. A settling cage made of wire that fits over the roof and landing board of the loft is used to help settle and train pigeons to return to the trap.

18. Preparation of Loft to Receive Pigeons

The first step in preparing to receive a shipment of pigeons is to arrange for their housing. If it is the initial stock for a loft, the entire loft will be available. In the case of subsequent shipment, place new stock in a separate compartment for a period of observation. In order to anticipate arrival of birds, maintain contact with the agency making delivery. Then proceed as follows:

The first step in getting ready to receive a shipment of pigeons is to set up their housing. If this is the first batch for a loft, the whole loft will be ready. For later shipments, put the new pigeons in a separate section for a time to observe them. To expect the arrival of the birds, stay in touch with the delivery service. Then proceed as follows:

a. Clean the loft.

b. In good weather keep front of the loft open so that plenty of sunlight and air can enter.

b. On nice days, keep the front of the loft open so that plenty of sunlight and fresh air can come in.

c. To keep drafts out during extreme cold and windy weather, cover openings of the loft with porous materials which will allow passage of air and will not interfere with the camouflage appearance.

c. To block drafts during very cold and windy weather, cover the openings of the loft with breathable materials that will let air flow while keeping the camouflage look intact.

d. Spread a small quantity of coarse sand on the floor of the loft to aid cleanliness and to supplement the grit.

d. Spread a small amount of coarse sand on the loft floor to help with cleanliness and to add to the grit.

e. Provide 10 percent more perching space than is necessary for the number of incoming birds.

e. Provide 10 percent more perching space than what's needed for the number of arriving birds.

19. Receipt of Pigeons at Loft

To receive pigeons at a loft, proceed as follows:

To receive pigeons at a loft, do the following:

a. Immediately upon their arrival transfer the birds to the loft from the crates or baskets in which they were transported. The pigeons may have completed a lengthy trip and be in comparatively poor condition because of delays in travel or lack of proper care and attention.

a. As soon as they arrive, move the birds from the crates or baskets they were transported in to the loft. The pigeons might have just come from a long journey and could be in relatively bad shape due to travel delays or insufficient care and attention.

b. Immediately after the birds have been transferred to the loft, carefully examine and handle each pigeon, separating the healthy from the sickly. Place the healthy birds in a compartment where they can obtain12 plenty of fresh drinking water, and feed them sparingly. Isolate the birds which appear sick until they are fully recovered.

b. Right after the birds are moved to the loft, carefully check and handle each pigeon, separating the healthy ones from the sick ones. Put the healthy birds in a section where they can have12 plenty of fresh drinking water and feed them lightly. Keep the birds that look sick isolated until they have fully recovered.

TL70176

Figure 6. Stationary loft.

Figure 6. Static loft.

TL70177

Figure 7. Loft PG-46-A.

Figure 7. Loft PG-46-A.

c. It is imperative that the pigeons be vaccinated against pigeon pox if they were not vaccinated prior to shipment.

c. It is essential that the pigeons are vaccinated against pigeon pox if they weren't vaccinated before shipment.

d. Thereafter water, feed, and provide bathing water according to instructions in paragraphs 20 to 23, inclusive.

d. After that, provide water, food, and bathing water according to the instructions in paragraphs 20 to 23, inclusive.

e. Make an exact inventory of the pigeons, noting band markings, colors, special markings, and physical condition of each bird.

e. Create a detailed inventory of the pigeons, recording band markings, colors, unique markings, and the physical condition of each bird.

f. Become familiar with the pigeons while they are confined. Accustom them to the presence of caretakers and to feeding at definite times.

f. Get to know the pigeons while they're in captivity. Get them used to the caretakers being around and to being fed at regular times.

g. Begin training of the new birds immediately. The longer the time between their arrival at their new home and the beginning of their training, the more difficult it will be for them to be trained properly.

g. Start training the new birds right away. The longer you wait between their arrival at their new home and the start of their training, the harder it will be for them to be trained properly.

20. Watering

a. The health of a pigeon depends more upon pure drinking water than upon any other factor; therefore, keep plenty of fresh water available at all times.

a. The health of a pigeon relies more on clean drinking water than on any other factor; so, make sure to always have plenty of fresh water available.

b. The homing pigeon does not drink like most other birds. The pigeon places its bill into the water, and takes a long, deep draft like a horse. For this reason, keep the depth of the water in the drinking fountain not less than 1½ inches deep. Always supply water in a fountain or other receptacle which will prevent bathing. Fountains PG-37-C provide excellent watering facilities for the birds and are constructed to reduce contamination to a minimum (fig. 9).

b. The homing pigeon doesn't drink like most other birds. The pigeon dips its beak into the water and takes a long, deep drink like a horse. For this reason, make sure the water in the drinking fountain is at least 1½ inches deep. Always provide water in a fountain or another container that prevents bathing. Fountains PG-37-C offer great watering options for the birds and are designed to minimize contamination to the greatest extent (fig. 9).

TL70178

Figure 8. Loft PG-68/TB.

Figure 8. Loft PG-68/TB.

c. In warm weather, change the water three times a day, cleaning the15 container thoroughly each time. In cool weather, twice a day may be sufficient, provided the water can be kept clean. Water containing impurities gives the pigeon a sour crop or acute indigestion. If a sanitary water supply is not readily available, use drinking water purified for troops. When it is necessary to use water of doubtful purity, add a sufficient amount of potassium permanganate until a light pink color is attained. Empty drinking fountains at night in cold weather so that the water will not freeze. Having running water in the drinking fountain is not advisable as it is usually cool and may cause diarrhea during hot weather.

c. In warm weather, change the water three times a day, cleaning the 15 container thoroughly each time. In cool weather, twice a day may be enough, as long as the water stays clean. Water with impurities can give the pigeon a sour crop or severe indigestion. If a sanitary water supply isn’t easily available, use drinking water that has been purified for troops. When it’s necessary to use water of questionable quality, add enough potassium permanganate until it turns a light pink color. Empty drinking fountains at night during cold weather to prevent the water from freezing. It’s not advisable to have running water in the drinking fountain, as it’s usually cool and can cause diarrhea during hot weather.

TL70179

Figure 9. Fountain PG-37-C in loft.

Figure 9. Fountain PG-37-C in the loft.

21. Feeding

a. General. The health and general physical condition of a pigeon largely depend on the amount of food, time of feeding, and the kind of food provided. Pigeons should not refuse food unless they have just been fed. They will be alert, active, happy, and much more manageable if kept a little hungry. It is easy to overfeed pigeons so that they become sluggish and listless. Many good pigeons have been spoiled by overfeeding. The pigeoneer should hand-feed the birds and watch them closely while they are eating because their appetite reflects their general health and condition. Sick birds may be discovered by their failure to eat. Pigeons become16 better acquainted with the pigeoneer through hand-feeding, and he in turn can keep them alert and under control.

a. General. The health and overall physical condition of a pigeon mostly depend on how much food they receive, when they are fed, and the type of food provided. Pigeons shouldn't refuse food unless they've just eaten. They will be more alert, active, happy, and easier to manage if kept slightly hungry. It's easy to overfeed pigeons, which can make them sluggish and unenergetic. Many good pigeons have been ruined by overfeeding. The pigeon keeper should hand-feed the birds and closely observe them while they eat, as their appetite is a good indicator of their overall health and condition. Sick birds may be identified by their lack of appetite. Pigeons get16 more familiar with the pigeon keeper through hand-feeding, and the keeper can, in turn, keep them alert and under control.

b. Method. Feed pigeons twice a day during training, light feeding in the morning and heavier in the evening. After each exercise, training, or other flight, call the pigeons into the loft and give them a small quantity of feed as a reward. While the pigeons are taking their morning exercise, clean the loft and place in it a fresh supply of grit and drinking water. Call the birds in when they have completed their exercises, then scatter the food slowly on the sand-covered floor as the birds enter through the trap. Scatter the feed, a handful at a time. Wait until the pigeons have eaten nearly all the feed before distributing another handful. The feed should be well scattered so that individual birds do not get all of the choice grains. No harm is done if the pigeons eat some of the sand, providing it is clean, as sand supplements grit as an aid to digestion. There are several reasons why pigeons should be fed only a handful at a time. If the whole amount of grain for one feeding is thrown on the floor at once, the actual amount needed cannot be estimated exactly. If the amount estimated was too little, the pigeons are underfed; if the amount was excessive, the grain not immediately consumed becomes contaminated and may cause sickness if eaten later. Another reason for scattering feed in small quantities is to prevent the pigeons from picking out the kinds of grain they particularly like and leaving those which contain food elements they need for proper development. Pigeons always drink immediately after feeding. When the first pigeon stops eating and takes a drink, it is a sign that the pigeons have had enough food so do not scatter any more grain.

b. Approach. Feed pigeons twice a day during training, with a light meal in the morning and a heavier one in the evening. After each exercise, training, or flight, call the pigeons into the loft and give them a small amount of feed as a reward. While the pigeons are doing their morning exercise, clean the loft and provide fresh grit and drinking water. Call the birds in once they finish their exercises, then slowly scatter the food on the sand-covered floor as the birds come in through the trap. Scatter the feed one handful at a time. Wait until the pigeons have eaten most of the feed before giving them another handful. The feed should be well scattered so individual birds don’t get all the best grains. It’s fine for the pigeons to eat some sand, as long as it’s clean, since sand helps with digestion. There are several reasons to feed pigeons only one handful at a time. If you throw all the grain down at once, it's hard to estimate how much they really need. If you guess too low, the pigeons end up underfed; if you guess too high, any grain that isn’t eaten right away can get contaminated and may make them sick if consumed later. Another reason for scattering the feed in small amounts is to stop the pigeons from picking their favorite grains and ignoring the ones that provide essential nutrients for proper growth. Pigeons always drink right after eating. When the first pigeon stops eating to drink, it’s a sign they’ve had enough food, so don’t scatter any more grain.

c. Breeding pigeons. Parent pigeons feed their young in the nest by ejecting food from their own crops into the youngster’s crop. Therefore, when young pigeons are in the nest, return in about 30 minutes after the initial feeding and offer additional food to the parents. When the youngsters are approximately 18 days of age, start placing a handful of grain each day in the back corner of the nest compartment out of the way of the droppings. The parent pigeons will eat a few grains in the presence of the youngsters. The youngsters will imitate their parents and thus learn to eat by themselves more rapidly.

c. Raising pigeons. Parent pigeons feed their young in the nest by regurgitating food from their own crops into the chicks' crops. So, when young pigeons are in the nest, come back about 30 minutes after the first feeding and give the parents more food. When the chicks are around 18 days old, start putting a handful of grain each day in the back corner of the nest compartment, out of the way of the droppings. The parent pigeons will eat a few grains in front of the chicks. The chicks will copy their parents and thus learn to eat on their own more quickly.

22. Pigeon Feed

The diet for a pigeon should include legumes (peas and vetch), seeds, cereal grains, green foods, and grit. The seeds and grains are fed as an ordinary diet in the form of a feed mixture, but grit is fed separately. Feed must be of a specific grade and mixture to assure the pigeon of proper growth, a generally healthy condition, and enough energy to endure the hardships of messenger flights. Pigeon feed, which is a perishable item, must be grown under prescribed conditions from the finest quality seed, harvested, cleaned, stored, and then mixed when required. When harvested, grain or seed is likely to contain many impurities like chaff, weed seeds, weevils, or other injurious insects, kernels which are dead or damaged, and excessive moisture. Practically all of these impurities must be removed before the feed is suitable for use. Mixing must be accomplished under conditions that will insure uniformity. The word “feed” as used below will refer to either mixed feed, grain, or seeds, as applicable. A single grain or seed will be referred to as a “kernel.”

The diet for a pigeon should consist of legumes (like peas and vetch), seeds, cereal grains, greens, and grit. Seeds and grains are usually provided as a standard feed mixture, while grit is given separately. The feed needs to meet specific quality and mixture standards to ensure the pigeon grows properly, stays generally healthy, and has enough energy to handle the demands of messenger flights. Pigeon feed, which can spoil, must be produced under specific conditions using high-quality seeds, then harvested, cleaned, stored, and mixed as needed. When harvested, grains or seeds can have a lot of impurities, such as chaff, weed seeds, weevils, or other harmful insects, as well as dead or damaged kernels and excess moisture. Almost all of these impurities should be removed before the feed is suitable for use. Mixing should be done in a way that ensures consistency. The term “feed” used below will refer to mixed feed, grains, or seeds, as appropriate. A single grain or seed will be called a “kernel.”

a. Suitable feed. Feed should—

a. Appropriate feed. Feed should—

(1) Be sound and have a natural odor, without traces of sour, musty, or foreign odors.

(1) Be fresh and have a natural smell, without any signs of sour, musty, or foreign odors.

(2) Be well matured and of good natural color, without a noticeable amount of dead or damaged kernels.

(2) Be well-ripened and of good natural color, without a noticeable amount of dead or damaged kernels.

(3) Be free of dirt, dust, or foreign material, beyond a slight trace.

(3) Be free of dirt, dust, or any foreign material, except for a slight trace.

(4) Be free from live weevils or other insects and the defects caused by them.

(4) Be free from live weevils or other bugs and the damage caused by them.

(5) Be free-flowing, without traces of webbyness.

(5) Be smooth and natural, without any signs of being overly complicated.

(6) Not contain excessive moisture as determined by the field test described in b (5) below.

(6) Must not have too much moisture based on the field test explained in b (5) below.

b. Defective pigeon feed. Defects in feed can be recognized by smell, visual inspection, or laboratory test. Feed is unsuitable for use if it has any of the following defects:

b. Bad pigeon feed. You can identify problems with the feed by its smell, visual checks, or lab tests. The feed is not safe to use if it has any of the following issues:

(1) Unsound. This condition may be detected by a sour or musty odor or by an “off color” appearance.

(1) Unsound. You can notice this condition by a sour or musty smell or by an unusual color.

(2) Foreign materials. Chaff, dirt, dust, stones, etc., can be detected by visual inspection.

(2) Foreign materials. Chaff, dirt, dust, stones, etc., can be spotted through visual inspection.

(3) Webbyness. When feed has been, or is infected, with injurious insects it is likely to be webby. The feed will cling together in small balls by webs similar to cobwebs. It may also have an objectionable odor.

(3) Webbyness. When feed has been, or is infected, with harmful insects, it’s likely to be webby. The feed will stick together in small clumps by webs like cobwebs. It may also have an unpleasant odor.

(4) Dead or damaged kernels. Kernels that have sprouted, been bored by insects, or are discolored as a result of frost, fermentation, or immaturity, can be detected by a visual inspection.

(4) Dead or damaged kernels. Kernels that have sprouted, been infested by insects, or are discolored due to frost, fermentation, or being underdeveloped can be identified through a visual inspection.

(5) Moisture. Small amounts of moisture cannot be detected without a laboratory test. However, a field method which may be employed to determine roughly the moisture content of feed is to place a few of the kernels on a flat surface and then strike them a few times with a hammer or similar tool. If the feed tested does not contain an excessive amount of moisture, the kernels will crumble into small pieces like “corn meal.” If an excessive amount of moisture is present the kernels will become pulpy. When performing this test, remember that hulled oats, flax seed, hemp seed, and vetch, because of their oil content, will become pulpy even though their moisture content is within required limits.

(5) Moisture. Small amounts of moisture can’t be detected without a lab test. However, a rough field method to estimate the moisture content of feed is to place a few kernels on a flat surface and then hit them a few times with a hammer or similar tool. If the feed doesn't have too much moisture, the kernels will break apart into small pieces like “corn meal.” If there is too much moisture, the kernels will turn pulpy. When doing this test, keep in mind that hulled oats, flax seed, hemp seed, and vetch, due to their oil content, will become pulpy even if their moisture levels are within the acceptable limits.

c. Harmful insects. The two most harmful insects to pigeon feed are weevils and grain moths.

c. Pests. The two most damaging insects to pigeon feed are weevils and grain moths.

(1) Weevils. Weevils are small beetle-type insects which vary in color from brown to black. They eat by boring holes into the portion of the kernel containing the nutritive elements. Weevils can be detected by the test described in i(2)(b) below.

(1) Weevils. Weevils are small beetle-like insects that range in color from brown to black. They feed by boring holes into the part of the kernel that has the nutritional elements. You can identify weevils using the test described in i(2)(b) below.

(2) Grain moths. These small moths vary in color from buff to grayish or yellowish brown. During the larva stage they gnaw their way into the kernel and then eat the inside portion to secure nourishment for growth. When fully grown they eat their way out of the kernel. The presence of moths in feed can be detected by the holes they leave in kernels.

(2) Grain moths. These small moths come in colors ranging from light tan to grayish or yellowish brown. In their larval stage, they burrow into the kernel and eat the inner portion to get the nutrients they need to grow. Once they are fully grown, they chew their way out of the kernel. You can tell if there are moths in the feed by the holes they leave in the kernels.

d. Feed mixtures. Various seeds and grains are mixed in specified percentages to acquire a feed mixture of certain required amounts of proteins, carbohydrates, and fats. Factors determining the type of feed mixture used are climatic conditions, the way in which the pigeon is used, and the condition of the bird. Different mixtures are fed during the breeding and molting period, while training or conditioning, or while the pigeons are used for messenger service. Use of feed mixtures is as follows:

d. Feed blends. Different seeds and grains are combined in specific percentages to create a feed mixture that meets the necessary levels of proteins, carbohydrates, and fats. The type of feed mixture used depends on factors like the climate, how the pigeon is being utilized, and the bird's health. Different mixtures are provided during breeding and molting periods, during training or conditioning, or when pigeons are used for messenger services. The use of feed mixtures is as follows:

(1) Breeding feed is used to maintain a healthy physical condition in parent pigeons, and at the same time supply essential food elements necessary to raise strong young pigeons.

(1) Breeding feed is used to keep parent pigeons in good health and provide the essential nutrients needed to raise strong young pigeons.

(2) Training and conditioning feed builds and maintains a physical condition suitable for short distance messenger service during the training period.

(2) Training and conditioning feed develops and keeps a physical condition suitable for short-distance messenger service during the training period.

(3) Special feed supplies energy and replaces the body tissues consumed by the pigeon when it is continuously used for messenger service.

(3) Special feed provides energy and replaces the body tissues that the pigeon uses up when it is constantly working as a messenger.

(4) Molting feed, a supplementary feed mixture containing hemp, canary, flax, and rape, insures good feathers and keeps the weight of the pigeon normal by supplying rich, oily, and easily digested feed.

(4) Molting feed, a supplementary feed mix that includes hemp, canary seed, flax, and rapeseed, ensures healthy feathers and maintains the pigeon's weight by providing a rich, oily, and easily digestible diet.

e. Analysis. The three principal properties of feed that are necessary for development and maintenance of a sound physical condition are proteins, carbohydrates, and fats.

e. Analysis. The three main nutrients in feed that are essential for developing and maintaining good physical health are proteins, carbohydrates, and fats.

(1) Proteins contribute a large portion of the elements necessary for maintaining the pigeon’s health, muscular and respiratory system, and the organs essential to flying. The most important feeds in the protein class are peas and vetch.

(1) Proteins play a significant role in providing essential elements for the health of pigeons, supporting their muscular and respiratory systems, as well as the organs crucial for flying. The key sources of protein in their diet are peas and vetch.

(2) Carbohydrates supply energy. The portion of carbohydrates not used immediately changes to “fat” and is held in reserve by the pigeon to be drawn upon when it is being used continuously for messenger service. The most important suppliers of carbohydrates are rice, kaffir, wheat, corn, and hulled oats.

(2) Carbohydrates provide energy. Any carbohydrates that aren’t used right away convert to “fat” and are stored by the pigeon to be accessed when it’s constantly working as a messenger. The main sources of carbohydrates are rice, kaffir, wheat, corn, and hulled oats.

(3) Fats keep the pigeon warm and also build a reserve supply of energy. The feeds which furnish fats are rape, flax, and hemp seed.

(3) Fats help keep the pigeon warm and also create a backup energy supply. The foods that provide fats include rapeseed, flaxseed, and hempseed.

f. Analysis chart. The following chart gives a comparative analysis of the grains and seeds used for pigeon feed:

f. Analysis chart. The chart below provides a comparative analysis of the grains and seeds used for pigeon feed:

ANALYSIS CHART

Analysis Chart

Stock No. Ingredient Moisture Ash Crude
protein
Carbohydrates Fat
Crude
fiber
Nitrogen
free
extract
9A705

Buckwheat, unofficial 2

Buckwheat, unofficial

12.6 2.0 10.0   8.7 64.5   2.2
9A747

Seed, canary, 99% pure, unofficial 2

Seed, canary, 99% pure, unofficial __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

  7.0 5.5 17.2   5.7 59.1   5.5
9A747.1

Seed, flax, 99% pure, U. S. No. 1 1

Seed, flax, 99% pure, U.S. No. 1 1

  9.2 4.3 22.6   7.0 23.2 33.7
9A876.1

Corn, American, small grain, U. S. No. 1 1

Corn, American, small grain, U.S. No. 1 1

12.9 1.3   9.3   1.9 70.3   4.3
9A1360

Seed, hemp, sterilized, 99% pure, unofficial 2

Seed, hemp, sterilized, 99% pure, unofficial 2

  8.0 2.0 10.0 14.0 45.0 21.0
9A1550

Kaffir, U. S. No. 1 1

Kaffir, U.S. No. 1 __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

  9.4 1.6 11.1   2.1 72.6   3.2
9A1765

Seed, millet, 99% pure, unofficial 2

Seed, millet, 99% pure, not certified __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

  9.1 3.3 11.8   7.8 64.7   3.3
9A1787

Oats, hulled, table grade, unofficial 2

Oats, hulled, standard quality, not official 2

  8.4 1.8 16.0   1.5 65.5   6.8
9A1848

Peas, Canada, U. S. No. 1 1

Peas, Canada, U.S. #1 __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

  9.2 3.4 23.0   5.5 57.8   1.1
9A1848.1

Peas, maple, unofficial 2

Peas, maple, unofficial __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

11.0 2.5 21.9   5.5 58.2   0.9
9A1848.2

Peas, white, First and Best, U. S. No. 1 1

Peas, white, First and Best, U.S. No. 1 1

  9.1 3.3 11.8   7.8 64.7   3.3
9A1901

Seed, rape, large, sweet, 99% pure, unofficial 2

Seed, rapeseed, large, sweet, 99% pure, unofficial 2

14.0 3.9 19.4   7.8 16.4 38.5
9A1940

Rice, whole, extra fancy, U. S. No. 1 1

Rice, whole, extra fancy, U.S. No. 1 1

12.4 0.4   7.4   0.2 79.2   0.4
9A2600

Vetch, common, unofficial 2

Common vetch, unofficial __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

13.7 3.3 25.4   5.4 50.7   1.5
9A2800

Wheat, hard red or durum, U. S. No. 1 1

Wheat, hard red or durum, U.S. No. 1 1

10.6 1.8 12.3   2.4 71.1   1.8

1 “U. S. No. 1 Grade” complies with standards for that grade established by the U. S. Department of Agriculture.

1 “U.S. No. 1 Grade” meets the standards for that grade set by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

2 “Unofficial grade” indicates grain or seed “well-matured, sound, clean, and of good natural color and odor” as certified to by a recognized Official Grain Inspection Agency.
Note. The above analysis of ingredients for pigeon feed are averages. Climatic conditions or the locality in which the grain or seed is grown may slightly alter this analysis.

2 “Unofficial grade” refers to grain or seed that is “fully matured, sound, clean, and has a good natural color and scent,” as certified by an Official Grain Inspection Agency.
Note. The ingredient analysis for pigeon feed provided above are averages. Weather conditions or the location where the grain or seed is grown may slightly change this analysis.

g. Green food. Certain amounts of this food are essential for the pigeon’s digestive organs to function properly. Crisp young lettuce, kale (preferably curly), and chickweed are the best green foods for pigeons. Pigeons prefer green stuff sprinkled with a little table salt. While green food is in season, give the pigeons as much of it as they will eat about three times a week. The preferred method for feeding this type of food is to suspend it in bunches on the inside of the loft about 4 inches from the floor.

g. Healthy food. Certain amounts of this food are essential for the pigeon's digestive system to function properly. Crisp young lettuce, kale (preferably curly), and chickweed are the best green foods for pigeons. Pigeons prefer green food sprinkled with a little table salt. When green food is in season, give the pigeons as much as they will eat about three times a week. The best way to feed this type of food is to hang it in bunches inside the loft about 4 inches off the floor.

h. Formulas. (1) The formulas for the various feed mixtures are listed below under their suggested use. It must be remembered that the factor governing the use of these feed mixtures will be climate and existing conditions.

h. Formulas. (1) The formulas for the different feed mixtures are listed below along with their recommended uses. It's important to keep in mind that the main factors influencing the use of these feed mixtures will be the climate and current conditions.

Breeding
Stock No. 9A1219.2
25%

American corn

U.S. corn

10%

Kaffir

Kaffir lime

25%

Canada peas or white peas, First and Best

Canada peas or white peas, First and Best

  5%

Millet seed

Millet

20%

Vetch

Vetch

15%

Wheat, hard red or durum

Hard red or durum wheat

Molting
Stock No. 9A1219.8
15%

Rice, whole

Whole grain rice

20%

Canary seed

Canary seeds

15%

Flax seed

Flaxseed

20%

Hemp seed

Hemp seeds

20%

Millet seed

Millet

10%

Rape seed

Canola seed

Training or conditioning
Stock No. 9A1219.5
  3.5%

Buckwheat

Buckwheat

25.0%

American corn

U.S. corn

  5.0%

Kaffir

Kaffir lime

  2.5%

Oats, hulled

Hulled oats

12.5%

Canada peas or white peas, First and Best

Canada peas or white peas, First and Best

12.5%

Peas, maple

Peas, maple syrup

  5.0%

Rice, whole

Brown rice

  2.5%

Canary seed

Canary seed

  5.0%

Hemp seed

Hemp seeds

  5.0%

Millet seed

Millet

15.0%

Vetch

Vetch (type of plant)

  6.5%

Wheat, hard red or durum

Hard red or durum wheat

Note. This mixture may also be used for a breeding feed.

Note. This mix can also be used as a breeding feed.

Stock No. 9A1219.6
35%

American corn

U.S. corn

  5%

Oats, hulled

Hulled oats

10%

Canada peas or white peas, First and Best

Canada peas or white peas, First and Best

15%

Maple peas

Maple pea pods

  5%

Rice, whole

Brown rice

  5%

Hemp seed

Hemp seeds

15%

Vetch

Vetch

10%

Wheat, hard red or durum

Hard red wheat or durum

Note. This mixture may also be used for a breeding feed.

Note. This mixture can also be used as a breeding feed.

Special
Stock No. 9A1219.4
25%

American corn

US corn

25%

Canada peas or white peas, First and Best

Canada peas or white peas, First and Best

30%

Maple peas

Maple peas

20%

Vetch

Vetch

Stock No. 9A1219.7
10%

American corn

U.S. corn

  5%

Hulled oats

Oat groats

20%

Canada peas or white peas, First and Best

Canada peas or white peas, First and Best

25%

Maple peas

Maple snap peas

  5%

Rice, whole

Whole grain rice

  5%

Hemp seed

Hemp seeds

20%

Vetch

Vetch

10%

Wheat, hard red or durum

Hard red or durum wheat

Note. Recommended for tropical climate.

Note. Best for tropical climate.

(2) The following chart gives a comparative analysis of the above mixtures:

(2) The chart below provides a comparison of the mixtures mentioned above:

Stock No. Moisture Ash Crude
protein
Carbohydrates Fat
Crude
fiber
Nitrogen
free
extract
9A1219.2 11.26 2.42 16.71 3.89 63.33   2.39
9A1219.4 11.57 2.58 19.73 4.58 59.63   1.91
9A1219.5 11.27 2.27 15.76 4.50 62.76   3.44
9A1219.6 11.64 2.06 15.56 3.87 63.32   3.55
9A1219.7 11.12 2.49 18.98 4.78 59.87   2.76
9A1219.8   9.46 3.25 14.24 7.36 50.76 14.93

i. Storage and fumigation. Pigeon feed procured in accordance with U. S. Army Specification 24-17-C, is of the finest ingredients obtainable in accordance with U. S. Department of Agriculture standards, and is processed prior to packing. If stored properly this feed will not become contaminated. Improper storage, however, counteracts the precautions taken to procure best quality feed. Therefore, the instructions below have been prepared to safeguard the original quality of the feed during storage.

i. Storage and pest control. Pigeon feed obtained according to U.S. Army Specification 24-17-C is made from the best ingredients available based on U.S. Department of Agriculture standards and is processed before packaging. If stored correctly, this feed won't get contaminated. However, improper storage undermines the precautions taken to ensure quality. Therefore, the following instructions have been designed to maintain the original quality of the feed during storage.

(1) Proper method of storage. The larval, pupal and adult stages of injurious grain insects are inactive in a temperature of 50° F. or lower. Thus the first and the most important rule is to store feed in a COOL, DRY PLACE, on a platform at least 6 inches above the floor.

(1) Proper method of storage. The larval, pupal, and adult stages of harmful grain insects are inactive at temperatures of 50° F. or lower. Therefore, the first and most important rule is to store feed in a COOL, DRY PLACE, on a platform at least 6 inches above the floor.

(a) There are several simple methods of stacking bagged feed. One way is to stand the first tier of bags on end on a movable floor of narrow boards nailed to joists. Bags should be set far enough apart to admit air and light. The air keeps the bags dry and the light discourages rats. Other tiers of bags are laid flat, each tier at right angles to the previous tier, to admit air and light (fig. 10). A second method is to lay a tier of bags flat on two parallel timbers, each tier laid at right angles to the previous tier (fig. 10).

(a) There are several simple ways to stack bagged feed. One method is to stand the first layer of bags on end on a movable floor made of narrow boards nailed to joists. The bags should be spaced apart enough to allow air and light to circulate. The air keeps the bags dry, and the light helps keep rats away. Other layers of bags are laid flat, with each layer placed at a right angle to the one beneath it, to let in air and light (fig. 10). A second method is to lay a layer of bags flat on two parallel beams, with each layer at a right angle to the layer below it (fig. 10).

(b) After feed has been stacked, it must be protected against rats. An inexpensive protective method is to construct a wooden framework inside the building where the feed is to be stored, and to cover it completely with ¼-inch wire mesh. The size of the wire mesh inclosure depends on the amount of feed to be stored.

(b) After stacking the feed, it needs to be protected from rats. A cost-effective way to do this is to build a wooden frame inside the building where the feed will be stored and cover it completely with ¼-inch wire mesh. The size of the wire mesh enclosure depends on how much feed needs to be stored.

TL70180

Figure 10. Methods of stacking bags.

Figure 10. How to stack bags.

(2) Examination for contamination. Feed stored in a hot climate or in buildings where injurious grain insects are present is likely to become infested.21 Therefore feed should be visually examined bimonthly for presence of moths or adult insects.

(2) Examination for contamination. Feed kept in a hot climate or in buildings where harmful grain insects are present is likely to get infested.21 Therefore, feed should be visually checked every two months for the presence of moths or adult insects.

(a) Take the temperature of the feed by inserting a thermometer into the feed, especially in the bags at the center of the pile. If it exceeds 75° F. make a closer and more frequent examination.

(a) Check the temperature of the feed by putting a thermometer into the feed, particularly in the bags at the center of the pile. If it goes above 75° F, do a more detailed and frequent check.

(b) A simple and practical test to discover the presence of insects is to place a quantity of the questionable feed in a sieve with 1/16-inch wire mesh (sieve PG-35), and shake over a white cloth or paper. Examine screenings and if insects are present, fumigate the feed according to instructions in (3) below to prevent further damage and ultimate ruin.

(b) A straightforward and effective way to check for insects is to put some of the questionable feed in a sieve with 1/16-inch wire mesh (sieve PG-35) and shake it over a white cloth or paper. Inspect the screenings, and if you find any insects, fumigate the feed according to the instructions in (3) below to avoid further damage and potential loss.

(3) Fumigation. There are three methods for fumigating contaminated pigeon feed available to pigeon units.

(3) Fumigation. There are three ways to fumigate contaminated pigeon feed available to pigeon units.

TL70217

Figure 11. Bath Pan PG-38.

Figure 11. Bath Pan PG-38.

(a) Quartermaster, fumigation and bath companies (T/O & E 10-257) have facilities, such as portable methyl bromide fumigation chambers, for delousing clothing which may be used for fumigating pigeon feed. These units are generally assigned to posts, camps, or stations and to theaters of operations, and their services may be obtained. To use their equipment,22 load chamber with bags of contaminated feed, seal, and charge it with a 2-pound can of methyl bromide, Stock Number 51M892 (see Quartermaster supplement of the Federal Standard Stock Catalog). Feed should remain in the chamber for at least 24 hours. Temperature of the interior of the chamber should be maintained at a minimum of 70° F.

(a) Quartermaster, fumigation and bath companies (T/O & E 10-257) have facilities, like portable methyl bromide fumigation chambers, for delousing clothing that can also be used to fumigate pigeon feed. These units are typically assigned to posts, camps, or stations and to theaters of operations, and their services can be requested. To use their equipment,22 load the chamber with bags of contaminated feed, seal it, and charge it with a 2-pound can of methyl bromide, Stock Number 51M892 (see Quartermaster supplement of the Federal Standard Stock Catalog). The feed should stay in the chamber for at least 24 hours. The temperature inside the chamber should be kept at a minimum of 70° F.

(b) If a portable fumigation chamber is not available, a building which can be tightly sealed, like those used for training purposes in the Chemical Warfare Service, may be used. The feed should be loaded into the vault so that the entire floor space is utilized. Seal vault tightly and apply methyl bromide from the outside of the vault through a ¼-inch diameter copper tubing at the top of the chamber. The connection between the tubing and the methyl bromide container should allow no leakage. The feed should remain in the vault for at least 24 hours. The temperature of the interior of the vault should be maintained at a minimum of 75° F. for best results. Use at least 1 pound of methyl bromide per 1,000 cubic feet of space. After the 24-hour exposure period, open vault and air it for a few hours before removing feed. Methyl bromide is toxic to human beings. Therefore, before opening or entering the vault after the exposure period, the fumigator should wear a gas mask type M9A1, with a standard service canister.

(b) If you don't have access to a portable fumigation chamber, you can use a building that can be sealed tightly, like those used for training in the Chemical Warfare Service. The feed should be loaded into the vault to make sure the entire floor space is used. Seal the vault securely and apply methyl bromide from outside the vault through a ¼-inch diameter copper tubing at the top of the chamber. The connection between the tubing and the methyl bromide container must prevent any leakage. The feed should stay in the vault for at least 24 hours. Maintain the interior temperature of the vault at a minimum of 75° F. for optimal results. Use at least 1 pound of methyl bromide for every 1,000 cubic feet of space. After the 24-hour exposure period, open the vault and ventilate it for a few hours before removing the feed. Methyl bromide is toxic to humans. Therefore, before opening or entering the vault after the exposure period, the fumigator should wear a gas mask type M9A1, equipped with a standard service canister.

TL70181

Figure 12. Catching pigeon in loft.

Figure 12. Catching a pigeon in the loft.

(c) If a portable fumigation chamber or gas tight vault is not available, “tarpaulin method” of fumigation may be used. Sweep clear the floor23 (preferably cement) where the feed is to be placed for fumigation. Stack the bags of feed in a square area to a height of 5 or 6 feet. After the feed is stacked, center four bags of feed in an upright position on top of the pile to form a gas expansion dome. Throw a tarpaulin which is large enough to cover completely the entire pile of feed over the pile. Allow a minimum margin of 2 feet on the floor for sealing. The tarpaulin should be of treated material, preferably rubberized, to prevent leakage and to be impervious to the fumigant. Seal the marginal excess of tarpaulin with filled bags or weights. The fumigant is released from the container through a tubing extending from the container under the tarpaulin to the top of the gas expansion dome. The same type of fumigant, dosage, exposure, and temperature required for vault or chamber fumigation are employed, and the same precautions are observed when removing the tarpaulin after the exposure period. If circumstances prevent a tight sealing of the tarpaulin use an increased amount of fumigant to compensate for leakage.

(c) If a portable fumigation chamber or gas-tight vault isn’t available, you can use the “tarpaulin method” of fumigation. First, clear the floor23 (preferably cement) where the feed will be placed for fumigation. Stack the bags of feed in a square area to a height of 5 or 6 feet. Once the feed is stacked, place four bags of feed upright at the center of the pile to create a gas expansion dome. Cover the entire pile of feed with a large tarpaulin. Leave a minimum margin of 2 feet on the floor for sealing. The tarpaulin should be made of treated material, preferably rubberized, to prevent leakage and be impermeable to the fumigant. Seal the excess tarpaulin around the edges with filled bags or weights. The fumigant is released from the container through a tube that runs from the container under the tarpaulin to the top of the gas expansion dome. Use the same type of fumigant, dosage, exposure time, and temperature as required for vault or chamber fumigation, and take the same safety measures when removing the tarpaulin after the exposure period. If it’s not possible to seal the tarpaulin tightly, use a larger amount of fumigant to make up for any leakage.

j. Use and preparation of grit. Grit is a prepared mixture which serves as a mechanical grinder for the food in the pigeon’s gizzard and assists in assimilation. Grit also purifies the crop and supplies lime for bone building and forming of egg shells. Many grit mixtures are available, most of which contain crushed oyster shell, gravel, sand, small sea shells, crushed limestone, salt, charcoal, and other ingredients.

j. Using and preparing grit. Grit is a mixture that acts as a mechanical grinder for food in the pigeon’s gizzard and helps with digestion. It also cleans the crop and provides lime for building bones and forming eggshells. There are many grit mixtures available, most of which include crushed oyster shell, gravel, sand, small seashells, crushed limestone, salt, charcoal, and other ingredients.

(1) Between 5 and 10 percent of the food fed a pigeon should be grit. Normally 5 percent is sufficient, except during the breeding season when as much as 10 percent may be fed since the parent pigeons pump grit into the youngsters when they start eating grains.

(1) Between 5 and 10 percent of the food given to a pigeon should be grit. Generally, 5 percent is enough, except during the breeding season when you can give as much as 10 percent, since the parent pigeons feed grit to the chicks when they begin eating grains.

(2) A preferred grit is made as follows:

(2) A preferred grit is created as follows:

(a) Thoroughly mix (in the manner of mixing mortar) 20 pounds of medium granite grit, 20 pounds of medium oyster shell, 20 pounds of medium crushed limestone, 5 pounds of medium charcoal, and 1/8 pound of oxide of iron (hematite). Then dissolve 3 pounds of table salt in boiling water and add just enough of this solution to the mixture to dampen it thoroughly. Do not add too much water. Thoroughly mix the whole preparation and allow to dry before feeding to birds.

(a) Mix together 20 pounds of medium granite grit, 20 pounds of medium oyster shell, 20 pounds of medium crushed limestone, 5 pounds of medium charcoal, and 1/8 pound of iron oxide (hematite) thoroughly, like mixing mortar. Then, dissolve 3 pounds of table salt in boiling water and add just enough of this solution to the mixture to dampen it completely. Be careful not to add too much water. Mix everything well and let it dry before feeding it to the birds.

(b) Each of the various ingredients in the mixture has a purpose. The granite is a grinder and pulverizes the food; the oxide of iron has a beneficial effect upon the blood and acts as a tonic; the charcoal purifies the crop, acting as a stomachic, that is, strengthening or stimulating action of the stomach. Limestone provides the materials for strengthening the bones. The oyster shells contribute lime which enters into the composition of bones and egg shells.

(b) Each of the different ingredients in the mixture serves a specific purpose. The granite acts as a grinder and crushes the food; the iron oxide positively affects the blood and acts as a tonic; the charcoal cleanses the digestive system, providing a strengthening effect on the stomach. Limestone supplies the necessary materials for strengthening bones. The oyster shells add lime, which is a part of bones and eggshells.

(3) The grit mixtures used are listed in the Signal Corps General Catalog, as Stock Nos. 9A1321 (color red), and 9A1322 (color natural) “Seashell” or equal.

(3) The grit mixtures used are listed in the Signal Corps General Catalog, as Stock Nos. 9A1321 (red) and 9A1322 (natural) “Seashell” or equivalent.

(4) Keep grit in the loft constantly except during the 24 hours before the pigeons are to be sent away to a point 50 or more miles distant for immediate liberation. Since grit contains salt and minerals which cause thirst, pigeons might land en route for water, thereby losing valuable time and exposing themselves to the danger of being shot or captured. Place the grit in a wooden box designed so that the pigeons cannot easily introduce foreign matter into the mixture. Inspect the box daily and remove all foreign matter. Refill the grit container with dry grit as needed. Once a week empty the grit container and clean it thoroughly. Add a24 fresh supply and destroy the old grit. Always keep an ample supply of grit in stock at the loft.

(4) Always keep grit in the loft except for the 24 hours before the pigeons are sent away to a location 50 or more miles away for immediate release. Since grit has salt and minerals that can make them thirsty, pigeons might stop for water on the way, which can waste time and put them at risk of being shot or captured. Store the grit in a wooden box designed so that the pigeons can’t easily mix in anything else. Check the box every day and remove any foreign substances. Refill the grit container with dry grit as needed. Once a week, empty the grit container and clean it thoroughly. Add a24 fresh supply and get rid of the old grit. Always keep a good amount of grit on hand in the loft.

TL70182

(1) Correct(2) Incorrect
Figure 13. Holding pigeon for inspection.

(1) CorrectIncorrect
Figure 13. Holding a pigeon for inspection.

TL70183

Figure 14. Catching pigeon in crate.

Figure 14. Catching a pigeon in a crate.

k. Allowance of feed and grit. (1) The annual allowance of feed mixture is 52 pounds for each pigeon because the average pigeon, including those breeding and those not breeding, consumes 1 pound of grain per week.

k. Feed and grit allowance. (1) The yearly allowance of feed mix is 52 pounds for each pigeon because the average pigeon, both breeding and non-breeding, eats 1 pound of grain each week.

(2) The annual allowance of grit is 6 pounds a pigeon.

(2) The yearly allowance of grit is 6 pounds per pigeon.

23. Bathing

a. No other class of fowl, except the duck family, enjoys a bath as much as pigeons. Pigeons that are kept clean have less trouble with mites or feather lice. The use of a quassia chip solution in the bath water is excellent for keeping pigeons free from lice and should be used once a week. To prepare the solution, boil one pound of quassia chips in 2 gallons of water for 20 minutes. Strain off the liquid and use 2 quarts of this solution to 3 gallons of bath water.

a. No other type of bird, except for ducks, loves a bath as much as pigeons do. Clean pigeons have fewer issues with mites or feather lice. Using a quassia chip solution in their bath water is great for keeping pigeons lice-free and should be done weekly. To make the solution, boil one pound of quassia chips in 2 gallons of water for 20 minutes. Strain the liquid and mix 2 quarts of this solution with 3 gallons of bath water.

b. As far as practicable, provide bath water daily during warm weather but omit in freezing weather. Approximately 1 hour after the morning feeding prepare the bath pan PG-38 and leave it in position about 1 hour. Scrub the pan thoroughly after the pigeons have finished bathing. During the breeding season provide the bath after the morning feeding as usual, but on alternate days provide the bath in the early afternoon. This method enables both cocks and hens to bathe every other day (see par. 44a).

b. As much as possible, provide bath water daily during warm weather, but skip it during freezing weather. About 1 hour after the morning feeding, set up the bath pan PG-38 and leave it there for about 1 hour. Clean the pan thoroughly after the pigeons have finished bathing. During the breeding season, provide the bath after the morning feeding as usual, but on alternate days, offer the bath in the early afternoon. This method allows both male and female pigeons to bathe every other day (see par. 44a).

24. Catching and Handling

Great care must be exercised when catching and handling pigeons because their flying ability depends upon their physical condition, and awkward and improper handling may result in the loss or breaking of tail and flight feathers. The correct methods of catching and handling birds are shown in figures 12 and 13.

Great care must be taken when catching and handling pigeons because their flying ability relies on their physical condition, and clumsy or improper handling may cause the loss or breakage of tail and flight feathers. The proper methods for catching and handling birds are illustrated in figures 12 and 13.

a. Catching in crate. To catch a pigeon in a crate or container, gently force it to the corner or end of the container and place palm of the hand in a firm position over pigeon’s shoulders (fig. 14); then turn the bird around26 (facing bird to door or entrance) and gently grasp it between both hands for lifting from crate. Bring pigeon to normal position in front of the waistline. Pigeons must be taken head first from all crates to prevent injury to the feathers.

a. Catching in the crate. To catch a pigeon in a crate or container, gently guide it toward a corner or the end of the container and place the palm of your hand firmly over the pigeon’s shoulders (fig. 14); then turn the bird around26 (facing the bird toward the door or entrance) and gently grasp it between both hands to lift it from the crate. Hold the pigeon in a normal position in front of your waist. Pigeons must be taken out head first from all crates to avoid damaging their feathers.

TL70184

(1) Correct(2) Incorrect
Figure 15. Crating a pigeon.

Figure 15. Crating a pigeon.

b. Catching in loft. This should be done with great care and ease as both the physical and feather condition of a pigeon may be impaired by awkward handling. There are several good methods for catching pigeons. The following one has been found to be satisfactory when carried out properly:

b. Catching in the attic. This should be done with a lot of care and ease because rough handling can negatively affect both the physical condition and feather quality of a pigeon. There are several effective methods for catching pigeons. The following method has proven to be reliable when done correctly:

(1) Always catch pigeons while in nests or on perches (fig. 15). Approach pigeon calmly, avoiding sudden movements that might frighten it.

(1) Always catch pigeons while they're in their nests or on perches (fig. 15). Approach the pigeon calmly, avoiding any sudden movements that might scare it.

(2) Grasp bird by a quick movement of the hands. Catch it from the front, with the thumbs on its back and fingers under its body.

(2) Quickly grab the bird with your hands. Catch it from the front, placing your thumbs on its back and your fingers underneath its body.

Caution: Never attempt to catch birds in the aviary, or when they are flying about the loft.

Caution: Never try to catch birds in the aviary or while they are flying around the loft.

c. Inspecting birds. When examining the wings, back, or tail feathers of a pigeon, always hold its chest or front portion against your body (fig. 12) for security. To examine the head, eyes, or bill, place the bird properly in one hand using the other hand as a front or side support, leaving fingers free for examination.

c. Birdwatching. When checking the wings, back, or tail feathers of a pigeon, always press its chest or front against your body (fig. 12) for safety. To look at the head, eyes, or beak, hold the bird correctly in one hand while using the other hand for support on the front or side, keeping your fingers free to examine.

d. Crating birds. Hold the bird with your thumb across its back and its legs between your first two fingers; place the palm of the other hand over the front part of the pigeon, extend fingers downward in the direction of the keel (fig. 15), and guide the bird into the crate. Do not release until bird’s feet are firmly on crate floor. Avoid crating birds with one hand only.

d. Birds in crates. Hold the bird with your thumb across its back and its legs between your first two fingers; place the palm of your other hand over the front part of the pigeon, extending your fingers down toward the keel (fig. 15), and guide the bird into the crate. Do not let go until the bird's feet are securely on the crate floor. Avoid crating birds with just one hand.


SECTION IV

LOFT MANAGEMENT AND RECORDS

25. Routine

A pigeoneer in charge of a loft can best care for his pigeons by observing the following daily routine in loft management:

A person managing a pigeon loft can take better care of their pigeons by following this daily routine for loft management:

a. Upon entering the loft, make a general inspection to see that everything is in order.

a. When you enter the loft, do a quick check to make sure everything is in order.

b. Sweep or scrape all sand and droppings and sift through a fine screen. Add new sand and spread in a thin layer.

b. Sweep or scrape up all the sand and droppings and sift them through a fine screen. Add fresh sand and spread it in a thin layer.

c. Provide fresh drinking water (Par. 20).

Provide clean drinking water (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__).

d. Provide bath water (par. 23).

Provide bath water (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__).

e. Conduct prescribed exercise and other training for pigeons according to schedule. This may include all types of flights.

e. Carry out the designated exercise and other training for the pigeons as planned. This can involve all kinds of flights.

f. Post loft records.

Post loft records.

g. Prepare daily quantity of feed and give prescribed portions.

g. Prepare the daily amount of feed and provide the recommended portions.

h. Inspect all pigeons as to condition, health, mating, breeding, etc., whenever required.

h. Check all pigeons for their condition, health, mating, breeding, etc., whenever needed.

i. Carry out any special instructions given for the day.

i. Follow any specific instructions provided for the day.

26. Classification of Pigeon Colors

a. The color of the upper body and wings determines the principal color classification of pigeons. In addition to principal color classification (see b(1) below), include the following classifications when applicable:

a. The color of the upper body and wings determines the main color classification of pigeons. Besides the main color classification (see b(1) below), include the following classifications when relevant:

(1) If any of the primary flights are white, the pigeon is classed as a “white flight.” Unless the flights are pure white the classification “white flight” is not made.

(1) If any of the main feathers are white, the pigeon is labeled as a “white flight.” The classification “white flight” is only used if the feathers are completely white.

(2) If all the coverts exhibit a light gray fringe on their outer edges, presenting a checkered appearance rather than a solid color, the pigeon is classed as “checkered.”

(2) If all the coverts have a light gray fringe on their outer edges, creating a checkered look instead of a solid color, the pigeon is classified as “checkered.”

(3) When a pigeon has white patches of feathers on its head, it is classed as “pied.” If these white patches extend to its body, it is classed as “splash.”

(3) When a pigeon has white feather patches on its head, it's called “pied.” If these white patches spread to its body, it's referred to as “splash.”

(4) If a pigeon exhibits one or two white feathers about the eyes, it is classed as “tick.”

(4) If a pigeon has one or two white feathers around its eyes, it's classified as a "tick."

b. Main color classifications for pigeons and their authorized abbreviations follow:

b. The main color categories for pigeons and their official abbreviations are as follows:

(1) Principal colors.

Main colors.

Type Abbreviation Description
Black (Blk)

All feathers are black.

All feathers are black.

Blue (B)

All feathers are grayish blue, generally with two black bars on each wing.

All feathers are a grayish-blue color, usually featuring two black stripes on each wing.

Silver (Sil)

All feathers are deep grayish silver, generally with two red bars on each wing.

All the feathers are a dark grayish silver, usually with two red stripes on each wing.

Red (R)

All feathers are a solid brownish red (often called chocolate).

All feathers are a solid brownish-red (often referred to as chocolate).

(2) Checkers.

Checkers game.

29
Type Abbreviation Description
Black Checker (Blk ch)

Principal color black with dark gray or checker markings on rump and underpart of body.

Principal color is black with dark gray or checker markings on the back and underside of the body.

Dark checker (Dk ch)

Similar to black checker but showing more distinct checker markings on the wing.

Similar to a black checker but with more distinct checker markings on the wing.

Blue checker (B ch)

Principally blue with checker markings on the body and wings.

Principally blue with checkered patterns on the body and wings.

Red checker (R ch)

Principally red with checker markings on the body and wings.

Principally red with checkered patterns on the body and wings.

Dun (Dun)

Similar to silver except principal color is of a darker shade.

Similar to silver, except the main color is a darker shade.

Mealy (Mly)

Similar to dun except that they do not have sharply defined red markings on the wings.

Similar to dun, except they don't have distinct red markings on the wings.

Grizzle (Griz)

Principal colors consist of red, black, and white mottled together. (Often the black or red colors are not present.) Birds also will be found with grizzle markings around the head and neck only. However, these birds will be classified as grizzles and the wing markings may be indicated as well.

Principal colors consist of red, black, and white mixed together. (Often, the black or red colors may be absent.) Birds can also have grizzle markings only around the head and neck. However, these birds will be classified as grizzles, and the wing markings may also be noted.

(3) Combinations. Examples of combinations of colorings and markings, together with their authorized abbreviations, are—

(3) Combinations. Here are examples of combinations of colors and patterns, along with their approved abbreviations:

(a) Black with white flights pied (Blk wft pd).

(a) Black with white feathered patches (Blk wft pd).

(b) Red with white flights (R wft).

(b) Red with white feathers (R wft).

(c) Blue pied (B pd).

Blue pied (B pd).

(d) Black splash (Blk spl).

Black splash (Blk spl).

(e) Red checkered splash (R Ch spl).

(e) Red checkered splash (R Ch spl).

(f) Blue checkered tick (B Ch tk).

(f) Blue checkered tick (B Ch tk).

(g) Blue with white flights (B wft).

(g) Blue with white wings (B wft).

(h) Checkered (Ch).

Checkered (Ch).

(i) Grizzle with blue wing markings (B griz).

(i) Grizzle with blue wing markings (B griz).

27. Records and Reports

The records and reports required for each pigeon unit are Breeding Card, Pigeon Breeding Record, Pigeon Flight Record, Pigeon Pedigree, and Monthly Pigeon Loft Report.

The records and reports needed for each pigeon unit are the Breeding Card, Pigeon Breeding Record, Pigeon Flight Record, Pigeon Pedigree, and Monthly Pigeon Loft Report.

a. Breeding Card, WD SC Form 1132 (fig. 16). The breeding card is fastened on the outside of the nest compartment as soon as the cock and the hen are mated and take possession of the nest. It remains there during the breeding activities of the particular pair of parent pigeons. The data provide the initial identification record of the youngsters and permit a careful check on the progress of their development. Entries must be timely, accurate, and legible. When the youngster leaves the breeding compartment, pertinent information from the breeding card is entered on the Pigeon Breeding Record (b below). Fill in the breeding card as follows:

a. Breeding Card, WD SC Form 1132 (fig. 16). The breeding card is attached to the outside of the nest compartment as soon as the male and female pigeons mate and take over the nest. It stays there throughout the breeding process of that particular pair. The information recorded serves as the initial identification for the chicks and allows for careful monitoring of their growth. Entries must be made promptly, accurately, and clearly. When the chicks leave the breeding compartment, relevant details from the breeding card are transferred to the Pigeon Breeding Record (b below). Complete the breeding card as follows:

(1) Pair number. Number of the nest compartment occupied by the parent pigeons.

(1) Pair number. The number of the nest compartment that the parent pigeons are using.

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Figure 16. Pigeon breeding card.

Figure 16. Pigeon breeding record.

(2) Loft of. Name of the post, camp, or station where the loft is located, and the designation of the loft.

(2) Loft of. The name of the post, camp, or station where the loft is located, along with the designation of the loft.

(3) Season. Calendar year.

(3) Season. Year.

(4) Cock number. Date on the leg band that relates to the cock’s identification.

(4) Cock number. The date on the leg band that corresponds to the cock’s identification.

(5) Color. Color of the cock.

(5) Color. Color of the rooster.

(6) Sire and dam. Strain of each of the cock’s parents.

(6) Mother and father. Breed of each of the rooster's parents.

(7) Hen number, color, sire, and dam. Data relating to the hen, similar to that furnished on the cock.

(7) Hen number, color, sire, and dam. Information about the hen, similar to what is provided for the rooster.

(8) Date laid. Month and day each egg is laid.

(8) Date laid. The month and day when each egg is laid.

(9) Hatched. Month and day each egg is hatched.

(9) Hatched. The month and day when each egg hatches.

(10) Banded. Month and day each youngster is banded.

(10) Banded. The month and day when each young bird is banded.

(11) Band number of youngsters. The letters USA, and year of hatching appear in the left column of the band placed on right leg of youngster. Loft designation and serial number assigned to the youngster appear in the right column of band.

(11) Band number of youngsters. The letters USA and the year of hatching are in the left column of the band placed on the right leg of the young bird. The loft designation and serial number assigned to the young bird are in the right column of the band.

(12) Color, sex, remarks. Color of the youngster and remarks, such as disposition when it leaves the breeding compartment. Generally, sex cannot be determined at this time and is entered at a later date.

(12) Color, sex, remarks. The color of the young one and notes about its behavior when it leaves the breeding area. Usually, the sex can't be determined right now and will be recorded later.

(13) Egg disposition. If the egg is removed from its parents to be hatched by other pigeons, or if it is destroyed, its disposition is entered on the card.

(13) Egg disposition. If the egg is taken from its parents to be incubated by other pigeons, or if it is destroyed, its status is recorded on the card.

b. Pigeon Breeding Record Book, WD SC Form 67 (fig. 17). The pigeon breeding record is a permanent record maintained at each loft where breeding activities are conducted. Data are taken from the breeding card of the youngster (see a above) and the breeding record of the parent pigeons, and are entered as follows:

b. Pigeon Breeding Record Book, WD SC Form 67 (fig. 17). The pigeon breeding record is a permanent record kept at each loft where breeding takes place. Information is gathered from the breeding card of the young pigeon (see a above) and the breeding record of the parent pigeons, and is recorded as follows:

(1) Band number. Band numbers assigned to youngsters hatched during the year, in numerical sequence.

(1) Band number. Band numbers are given to young birds that were hatched during the year, following a numerical order.

(2) Color. Opposite the band number, color and sex of each youngster.

(2) Color. Next to the band number, indicate the color and sex of each bird.

(3) Nest number. Number of the nest occupied by the parent pigeons.

(3) Nest number. The number of the nest currently occupied by the parent pigeons.

(4) Band number, color, sire, dam. Data on each parent, on a separate line.

(4) Band number, color, sire, dam. Information about each parent, listed on a separate line.

(5) Band number, color, g. sire, g. dam. Data for the parent pigeons (grandparents of the youngsters), entered on separate lines, are obtained from the breeding records of the grandparent birds.

(5) Band number, color, g. sire, g. dam. Information for the parent pigeons (the grandparents of the young birds), listed on separate lines, is taken from the breeding records of the grandparent birds.

(6) Strain. Opposite their band and color, strains of the grandparents of the youngsters.

(6) Strain. Opposite their group and color, strains from the grandparents of the young ones.

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Figure 17. Pigeon breeding record.

Figure 17. Pigeon breeding log.

(7) Notes. A small space below each entry, as indicated in figure 16, is used to show:

(7) Notes. A small space below each entry, as indicated in figure 16, is used to show:

(a) Date youngster was hatched.

Hatch date for the young.

(b) Performance record of the youngster.

(b) Performance record of the young person.

(c) Band numbers of any of its outstanding offspring.

(c) Band numbers of any of its existing offspring.

(d) Under Sire and Dam, performance record of parent, including maximum flight distance to date, and outstanding racing performance if any.

(d) Under Sire and Dam, the performance record of the parents, including the maximum flight distance achieved so far and any exceptional racing performance.

c. Pigeon Flight Record Book, WD SC Form 1183 (fig. 18). The pigeon flight-record book contains flight records of all the birds housed in one loft and is a complete account of their individual performances and training. Each flight made by a pigeon is entered on its record. A flight record is started for each youngster when it is removed from its parents and placed in the flying loft. The record is kept up to date. Entries should be made as follows:

c. Pigeon Flight Record Book, WD SC Form 1183 (fig. 18). The pigeon flight record book tracks the flights of all the birds kept in one loft and provides a full record of their individual performances and training. Each flight made by a pigeon is logged in its record. A flight record begins for each young bird when it is separated from its parents and moved into the flying loft. The record is regularly updated. Entries should be made as follows:

(1) Band number. Data on the identification band as shown on the breeding card.

(1) Band number. Information about the identification band as displayed on the breeding card.

(2) Color. Color of the pigeons, also taken from the breeding card.

(2) Color. The color of the pigeons, also taken from the breeding card.

(3) Sex. If the sex cannot be determined when the form is started, it is entered later.

(3) Sex. If the sex can't be determined when the form is started, it will be added later.

(4) Hatched. Date shown on the breeding card.

(4) Hatched. Date indicated on the breeding card.

(5) Flight record. Record of each flight on a separate line under each column as follows:

(5) Flight record. Document each flight on a separate line under each column as follows:

(a) Date of flight. Month, day, and year the flight was made. Year may be entered at the head of the column to avoid repetition.

(a) Date of flight. Month, day, and year the flight took place. The year can be written at the top of the column to avoid repeating it.

(b) Nature of flight. Appropriate description of flight, such as training, signal communication, or race; and how tossed, such as single, double, or group. These abbreviations of entries may be used: Tng, for training; Sig Com, for signal communication; ST, for single-tossed; DT for double-tossed; GT, for group-tossed.

(b) Nature of flight. A suitable description of flight, including training, signal communication, or racing, and how the birds are tossed, whether singly, doubly, or in groups. The following abbreviations may be used for entries: Tng for training; Sig Com for signal communication; ST for single-tossed; DT for double-tossed; GT for group-tossed.

(c) Competition. Number of lofts and the number of pigeons entered in a competition or race.

(c) Competition. The number of lofts and the number of pigeons entered in a competition or race.

(d) Distance. Distance traveled in miles (air line) for each flight, and the direction from the loft to the point of release. Abbreviations for directions may be used, for example, NW, SE, etc.

(d) Distance. Distance traveled in miles (as the crow flies) for each flight, and the direction from the loft to the release point. Abbreviations for directions can be used, such as NW, SE, etc.

(e) Position and speed. Position won in a race or single-tossed training flight (such as first, second) and the speed attained in yards per minutes (YPM) or miles per hour (MPH). Speed is entered for all flights if facts are available for calculation. When birds are group-tossed, enter “late” for those failing to arrive at the loft with the group. If birds break away and arrive at the loft in advance of the group, note position of arrival (such as 1, 2, etc.).

(e) Position and speed. The position achieved in a race or during a single toss training flight (like first, second) and the speed reached in yards per minute (YPM) or miles per hour (MPH). Speed should be recorded for all flights if the data is available for calculation. When birds are released in groups, write “late” for those that do not arrive at the loft with the group. If birds separate and arrive at the loft ahead of the group, note their position of arrival (like 1, 2, etc.).

d. Pigeon Pedigree Record, WD SC Form 68 (fig. 22). The pigeon pedigree record is kept for each pigeon used for breeding. Data are taken from breeding and other pedigree records, and are entered as follows:

d. Pigeon Pedigree Record, WD SC Form 68 (fig. 22). The pigeon pedigree record is maintained for every pigeon used for breeding. Information is collected from breeding and other pedigree records and is entered as follows:

(1) Name, color and sex, registry number (band number), date hatched, by what loft bred, and flight record.

(1) Name, color, and sex, registration number (band number), date of hatching, breeding loft, and flight record.

(2) Band numbers and color of parents.

(2) Parent band numbers and colors.

(3) Band number, colors, and strains of grandparents.

(3) Band number, colors, and strains of grandparents.

(4) In “remarks” include all matters about the pigeon or its strain which bear upon its ability and breeding value.

(4) In “remarks” include all information about the pigeon or its breed that relates to its performance and breeding potential.

(5) In the spaces under Father, Mother, Grandfather, and Grandmother, enter appropriate information concerning their flying and breeding records. Pigeon pedigree record, WD SC Form 1177, which is a long form, may be used when necessary if the pedigree is available for the great-grandparents.

(5) In the sections for Father, Mother, Grandfather, and Grandmother, fill in the relevant details about their flying and breeding records. You can use the pigeon pedigree record, WD SC Form 1177, a longer form, if you need it and if the pedigree for the great-grandparents is available.

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Figure 18. Pigeon flight record.

Figure 18. Pigeon flight log.

c. Monthly Pigeon Loft Report, WD SC Form 1133 (figs. 20 and 21). The monthly pigeon loft report is prepared for each pigeon unit on the last day of each month. Blank spaces on the report are filled in as follows:

c. Monthly Pigeon Loft Report, WD SC Form 1133 (figs. 20 and 21). The monthly pigeon loft report is created for each pigeon unit on the last day of each month. The blank sections of the report are completed as follows:

(1) Date. Day, month, and year.

Date. Day, month, year.

(2) Organization. Unit submitting report.

(2) Organization. Unit sending report.

(3) Station. Name of post, camp, or station at which the unit is located.

(3) Station. The name of the post, camp, or station where the unit is located.

(4) Pigeons on hand. These notations pertain to birds over 4 weeks of age.

(4) Pigeons available. These notes relate to birds older than 4 weeks.

(a) Old cocks. Total number of male pigeons over 1 year of age.

(a) Old roosters. Total number of male pigeons over 1 year old.

(b) Old hens. Total number of female pigeons over 1 year of age.

(b) Old hens. Total number of female pigeons older than 1 year.

(c) Youngsters over 4 weeks of age. Total number of pigeons between 4 weeks and 1 year of age.

(c) Young pigeons older than 4 weeks. Total number of pigeons aged between 4 weeks and 1 year.

(5) Aggregate total. Total number of pigeons, old and young, listed in (4) above.

(5) Aggregate total. The total number of pigeons, both old and young, listed in (4) above.

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Figure 19. Pigeon pedigree record.

Figure 19. Pigeon family tree.

(6) Authorized strength. Total number of pigeons authorized.

(6) Authorized strength. Total number of pigeons approved.

(7) Breeding activities.

Breeding activities.

(a) Mated pairs. Total number of pairs of parent pigeons mated for breeding purposes.

(a) Mated pairs. Total number of pairs of parent pigeons paired for breeding purposes.

(b) Eggs. Total number of eggs in nest.

(b) Eggs. Total number of eggs in the nest.

(c) Hatched. Total number of youngsters under 4 weeks of age.

(c) Hatched. Total number of young ones under 4 weeks old.

(8) Other pigeons. (a) Donated. Total number of pigeons donated to the Signal Corps by civilian pigeon fanciers.

(8) Other pigeons. (a) Donated. Total number of pigeons given to the Signal Corps by civilian pigeon lovers.

(b) Loaned. Total number of pigeons loaned to the Signal Corps by civilian pigeon fanciers.

(b) Loaned. Total number of pigeons lent to the Signal Corps by civilian pigeon enthusiasts.

(c) Total. Total number of donated and loaned pigeons on hand.

(c) Total. Total count of donated and loaned pigeons available.

(9) Losses during month. (a) Disease. Total number of banded pigeons lost or destroyed during the month as a result of disease.

(9) Losses during month. (a) Disease. Total number of banded pigeons lost or destroyed during the month due to disease.

(b) Accident. Total number of banded pigeons lost during the month as a result of accident.

(b) Accident. Total number of banded pigeons lost during the month due to accidents.

(c) Flight. Total number of pigeons lost during month while in flight (enter band numbers under remarks).

(c) Flight. Total number of pigeons lost during the month while flying (enter band numbers in the remarks).

(d) Sale. Total number of banded pigeons sold as surplus during the month, if any. If none, so state.

(d) Sale. Total number of banded pigeons sold as surplus during the month, if any. If none, so state.

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Figure 20. Monthly pigeon loft report, front.

Figure 20. Monthly pigeon loft report, front.

(e) Total. Total number of banded pigeons lost during month from all causes listed.

(e) Total. Total number of banded pigeons lost during the month from all causes listed.

(10) Number of birds shipped during month (destination). Self-explanatory.

(10) Number of birds shipped during the month (destination). Self-explanatory.

(11) Number of birds received during month (source). Self-explanatory.

(11) Number of birds received during month (source). It's clear what it means.

(12) Summary of training. Weekly Training Schedules supply information for both classes of birds.

(12) Summary of training. Weekly Training Schedules provide information for both types of birds.

(13) Instruction by loft personnel. Organizations receiving instruction, number of hours, and nature of instruction.

(13) Training provided by staff. Organizations getting training, total hours, and type of training.

(14) Personnel. Self-explanatory.

(14) Team. Self-explanatory.

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Figure 21. Monthly pigeon loft report, back.

Figure 21. Monthly pigeon loft report, back.

(15) Loft equipment and supplies. Self-explanatory. Note any item of equipment on hand superseded by an item listed.

(15) Loft equipment and supplies. This is straightforward. Make a note of any equipment you have that's replaced by an item on the list.

(16) Remarks and recommendations. Note information on the tactical operation of the unit; band numbers of birds lost in flight; birds culled during the month (including youngsters), together with the reasons for culling; and any remarks and recommendations not covered elsewhere on this report. (If additional space is needed, use plain sheets of bond paper.)

(16) Remarks and recommendations. Take note of details regarding the tactical operations of the unit; the number of birds lost in flight; birds culled during the month (including young ones), along with the reasons for culling; and any additional remarks and recommendations not mentioned elsewhere in this report. (If you need more space, please use regular sheets of bond paper.)

(17) Commanding. The name, grade, and office of the officer in charge are typewritten or printed in ink below his signature.

(17) Commanding. The name, rank, and position of the officer in charge are typed or printed in ink below their signature.

28. Banding

a. Each breeding loft is furnished with identifying metal leg bands to be used in banding all youngsters. These bands, PG-16, are manufactured in pairs. Each pair bears the pigeon’s serial number.

a. Each breeding loft is equipped with identifying metal leg bands to be used for banding all the young pigeons. These bands, PG-16, are made in pairs. Each pair shows the pigeon’s serial number.

(1) One of the pair of bands bears a marking which includes U*S, the last two figures of the calendar year the bird was hatched, the letters SC or AAF, and a serial number. This band is placed on the left leg and indicates that the pigeon was bred by the United States Army. It should not be removed as it serves to identify the pigeon with its breeding record.

(1) One of the bands has a mark that includes U*S, the last two digits of the year the bird was hatched, the letters SC or AAF, and a serial number. This band is put on the left leg and shows that the pigeon was bred by the United States Army. It should not be taken off, as it identifies the pigeon and its breeding record.

(2) The other band of the pair bears marking identical to that in (1) above except that in place of the “U*S” it bears the letters “USA.” This band is placed on the right leg, and it means that the pigeon was bred by and is the property of the United States Army. This band is removed whenever the pigeon ceases to remain the property of the United States Army.

(2) The other band of the pair has markings the same as in (1) above, except instead of “U*S,” it has the letters “USA.” This band is placed on the right leg and indicates that the pigeon was bred by and belongs to the United States Army. This band is taken off whenever the pigeon is no longer the property of the United States Army.

(3) Characteristic markings of leg bands now used are as follows:
(a) Right leg, USA 44 SC 15.
  Left leg, U*S 44 SC 15.
(b) Right leg, USA 44 AAF 407.
  Left leg, U*S 44 AAF407.
(4) The following designations were used prior to 1944:
  FtM. Fort Monmouth
  4CA 4th Corps Area
  4th SC 4th Service Command
  7th SC 7th Service Command
  8CA 8th Corps Area
  8th SC 8th Service Command
  9th SC 9th Service Command
  CZ Canal Zone
  HT Territory of Hawaii
  PI Philippine Islands
  ML Mobile Loft
  C Combat
  PR Puerto Rico
  SC Signal Corps
  TH Territory of Hawaii

b. In addition to the banded pigeons bred and owned by the United States Army, there are those of the United States Navy, and two large national associations of civilian pigeon fanciers, the American Racing Pigeon Union and the International Federation of American Homing Pigeon Fanciers, as well as those of numerous smaller organizations. The following examples illustrate the character of the legends used on the bands:

b. Besides the banded pigeons raised and owned by the United States Army, there are those from the United States Navy, along with two major national groups of civilian pigeon enthusiasts, the American Racing Pigeon Union and the International Federation of American Homing Pigeon Fanciers, as well as many smaller organizations. The examples that follow show the types of legends used on the bands:

USN 32 492AU 28 EC 1245 IF 27 C 6700

USN 32 492AU 28 EC 1245IF 27 C 6700

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Figure 22. Method of banding youngsters.

Figure 22. How to band young birds.

c. When banded pigeons are lost in flight, their band markings are listed on the Monthly Pigeon Loft Report (par. 27 e).

c. When banded pigeons go missing in flight, their band markings are noted on the Monthly Pigeon Loft Report (par. 27 e).

d. Each loft is authorized to use various colored, spiral, celluloid leg bands for special identification purposes. For example, all pigeons in a particular compartment of each loft may be fitted with celluloid bands of the same color to facilitate keeping track of them. These bands, PG-15, are requisitioned in the following colors: red, yellow, green, light-blue, dark-blue, black, and pink.

d. Each loft can use different colored, spiral, plastic leg bands for specific identification purposes. For instance, all pigeons in a certain compartment of each loft can be fitted with plastic bands of the same color to help keep track of them. These bands, PG-15, can be ordered in the following colors: red, yellow, green, light blue, dark blue, black, and pink.

29. Loft Equipment

a. T/O & E 11-39 prescribes the authorized allowances of nonexpendable pigeon equipment for signal pigeon companies and is the basis for requisition.

a. T/O & E 11-39 outlines the approved allowances of nonexpendable pigeon equipment for signal pigeon companies and serves as the basis for requisition.

b. Army Service Forces Catalog SIG 4-1, Signal Supply Catalog, Allowances of Expendable Supplies, prescribes the authorized allowances of expendable items for signal pigeon companies and is the basis for requisition.

b. Army Service Forces Catalog SIG 4-1, Signal Supply Catalog, Allowances of Expendable Supplies, outlines the approved quantities of expendable items for signal pigeon companies and serves as the foundation for requisition.

c. The basis for other pigeon units to requisition equipment and supplies depends upon the number of authorized pigeons they have and their particular needs.

c. Other pigeon units' ability to request equipment and supplies depends on how many authorized pigeons they have and their specific needs.

d. Sufficient descriptive information of items must be indicated on the requisition to permit positive identification. All required information pertaining to allowances, supplies on hand, due in (on requisition), and basis for issue must be clearly stated on all requisitions submitted to the station signal property officer.

d. Enough descriptive information about items must be included on the requisition to allow for clear identification. All necessary details regarding allowances, supplies currently on hand, those expected (based on the requisition), and the basis for the issue must be clearly indicated on all requisitions submitted to the station signal property officer.

e. In general, the following items of supplies and equipment in varying numbers will meet normal requirements of pigeon lofts:

e. Generally, the following supplies and equipment in different quantities will meet the usual needs of pigeon lofts:

Stock No. Requisition nomenclature Unit of
issue
Brief descriptive
nomenclature
9A315 Band PG-15 (Assorted colors) Ea

Pigeon, leg, marking, celluloid.

Pigeon, leg, marking, plastic.

9A315B Band PG-15 (Light blue) Ea
9A315BK Band PG-15 (Black) Ea  
9A315DB Band PG-15 (Dark blue) Ea

Note. When specific colors are required applicable stock number should be indicated on the requisition.

Note. When specific colors are needed, the applicable stock number should be indicated on the requisition.

9A315G Band PG-15 (Green) Ea
9A315P Band PG-15 (Pink) Ea
9A315R Band PG-15 (Red) Ea
9A315Y PG-15 (Yellow)    
9A316 Band PG-16 Pr

Pigeon leg, identifying, aluminum; 1 pair to each pigeon.

Pigeon leg, identification, aluminum; 1 pair for each pigeon.

9A426A Blow gun Ea

Blow gun, disinfectant,
1-qt. capacity.

Blow gun, disinfectant,
1-quart capacity.

9A575 Bowl PG-75 Ea

Pigeon, pressed wood pulp. Supersedes Bowl PG-29.

Pigeon, compressed wood pulp. Replaces Bowl PG-29.

9A636 Brush PG-36 Ea

Pigeon loft, counter duster.

Pigeon coop, dusting cloth.

9A725 Cage PG-50 Ea

10-bird, training.

10-bird training.

9A755 Capsules, multivitamin Ea  
9A825 Chips, quassia Lbs  
9A837 Container, 2-bird Fiber board Ea

Container, assembled 11½ × 6 × 6 in.; dismantled (folded flat) 15 × 12 × ½ in.; net weight, 1 lb.

Container, assembled 11½ × 6 × 6 in.; dismantled (folded flat) 15 × 12 × ½ in.; net weight, 1 lb.

9A941 Cup, drinking, ½ pt with hooks Ea  
9A939 Crate PG-49 Ea

20-bird, transportation.

20-bird, transport.

9A1140 Egg PG-40 Ea

Pigeon nest, white glass.

Pigeon nest, white glass.

40 9A1219.2 Feed, pigeon, mixed Lbs

Feed, pigeon mixture consisting of: 25% Corn, American, small grain; 10% Kaffir; 25% Peas, Canada or First and Best; 5% Seed, millet; 20% Vetch, common; 15% Wheat, hard red or durum.

Feed, pigeon mix made up of: 25% American corn, small grain; 10% Kaffir; 25% Canadian peas or First and Best; 5% Millet seed; 20% Common vetch; 15% Hard red or durum wheat.

9A1219.4 Feed, pigeon, mixed Lbs

Feed, pigeon, mixture consisting of: 25% Corn, American, small grain; 25% Peas, Canada or First and Best; 30% Peas, maple; 20% Vetch, common.

Feed, pigeon, mix consisting of: 25% American corn, small grain; 25% Canadian peas or First and Best; 30% maple peas; 20% common vetch.

9A1219.5 Feed, pigeon, mixed Lbs

Feed, pigeon, mixture consisting of: 3.5% Buckwheat; 25.0% Corn, American, small grain; 5.0% Kaffir; 2.5% Oats, hulled, table grade; 12.5% Peas, Canada or First and Best; 12.5% Peas, maple; 5.0% Rice, whole, extra fancy; 2.5% Seed, canary; 5.0% Seed, hemp; 5.0% Seed, millet; 15.0% Vetch, common; 6.5% Wheat, hard red or durum.

Feed, pigeon, blend consisting of: 3.5% Buckwheat; 25.0% Corn, American, small grain; 5.0% Kaffir; 2.5% Hulled Oats, table grade; 12.5% Peas, Canada or First and Best; 12.5% Maple Peas; 5.0% Whole Rice, extra fancy; 2.5% Canary Seed; 5.0% Hemp Seed; 5.0% Millet Seed; 15.0% Common Vetch; 6.5% Hard Red Wheat or durum.

9A1219.7 Feed, pigeon, mixed Lbs

Feed, pigeon mixture, consisting of; 10% Corn, American, small grain; 5% Oats, hulled, table grade; 20% Peas, Canada or First and Best; 25% Peas, maple; 5% Seed, hemp; 5% Rice, whole, extra fancy; 20% Vetch, common; 10% wheat, hard red or durum.

Feed, pigeon mix, made up of: 10% American corn, small grain; 5% hulled oats, table grade; 20% Canadian peas or First and Best; 25% maple peas; 5% hemp seed; 5% extra fancy whole rice; 20% common vetch; 10% hard red wheat or durum.

9A1219.8 Feed, pigeon, mixed Lbs

Feed, pigeon, mixture, consisting of: 15% Rice, whole, extra fancy; 20% Seed, canary; 15% Seed, flax; 41 20% Seed, hemp; 10% Seed, rape, large sweet; 20% Seed, millet.

Feed, pigeon, mix, made up of: 15% Whole, extra fancy rice; 20% Canary seed; 15% Flax seed; 41 20% Hemp seed; 10% Large sweet rape seed; 20% Millet seed.

9A1237C Fountain PG-37-C Ea

Drinking, pigeon galvanized iron self-filling, double opening, 1½ gallon capacity, with handle to facilitate carrying. Supersedes fountain PG-37.

Drinking, pigeon galvanized iron self-filling, double opening, 1½ gallon capacity, with handle to make carrying easier. Replaces fountain PG-37.

9A1321 Grit, health, pigeon (red) Lbs

 

9A1322 Grit, health, pigeon (natural) Lbs

 

9A1646A Loft PG-46-A Ea

Portable, 3-section.

Portable, 3-part.

9A1648 Loft PG-68/TB Ea

Portable, combat, transported by ¼-ton Bantam trailer.

Portable, combat, transported by ¼-ton Bantam trailer.

9A1767 Message holder PG-67 Ea

Transparent, plastic.

Clear plastic.

9A1838 Pan PG-38 Ea

Pigeon bath.

Bird bath.

9A1845-100 Parachute equipment PG-100/CB Ea

Pigeon; a collapsible cylinder type container; 4-bird capacity; attached to a 6-ft. parachute with quick release clip.

Pigeon: a collapsible cylinder-shaped container; holds 4 birds; attached to a 6-ft parachute with a quick release clip.

9A1845-101 Parachute equipment PG-101/CB Ea

Pigeon, a collapsible cylinder type container; 8-bird capacity; attached to a 9-ft. parachute with a quick release clip.

Pigeon, a foldable cylinder-shaped container; holds 8 birds; connected to a 9-ft. parachute with a quick release clip.

9A1857-103 Pigeon equipment PG-103/CB Ea

Complete unit of issue consists of: 1 each, container PG-102/CB (2-bird); 12 each, message holder PG-67; 1 each, map overlay pad Form WD, SC 181; 1 each, message book M-210-A; 2 each, pencils, Black 2H (No. 4) SS-P-186.

Complete unit of issue consists of: 1 container PG-102/CB (2-bird); 12 message holders PG-67; 1 map overlay pad Form WD, SC 181; 1 message book M-210-A; 2 black pencils 2H (No. 4) SS-P-186.

9A1857-105 Pigeon equipment PG-105/CB Ea

Complete unit of issue consists of: 1 each, container PG-104/CB (4-bird); 24 each, message holder PG-67; 1 each, message book M-210-A; 1 each, map overlay pad Form WD, SC 181; 2 each, pencils, black 2H (No. 4) SS-P-186. Supersedes pigeon equipment PG-60, Stock No. 9A1856.

Complete unit of issue consists of: 1 container PG-104/CB (4-bird); 24 message holders PG-67; 1 message book M-210-A; 1 map overlay pad Form WD, SC 181; and 2 black pencils 2H (No. 4) SS-P-186. Supersedes pigeon equipment PG-60, Stock No. 9A1856.

9A1886-106 Pigeon vest PG-106/CB Ea

Shaped to form a pigeon’s body permitting neck, wing tips, tail and feet to protrude, made of porous fabric and has strap for carrying pigeon on paratrooper’s or scout’s chest, adjustable to any size pigeon.

Shaped to create a pigeon’s body, allowing the neck, wing tips, tail, and feet to stick out, made of breathable fabric and has a strap for carrying the pigeon on a paratrooper’s or scout’s chest, adjustable to fit any size pigeon.

9A2020 Shavings, cedar Lbs

 

9A2034A Scraper PG-34-A Ea

Similar in shape to a putty knife except blade is 3 in. wide. Supersedes scraper PG-34, Stock No. 9A2034.

Similar in shape to a putty knife, but the blade is 3 inches wide. This replaces scraper PG-34, Stock No. 9A2034.

9A2035 Sieve PG-35 Ea

Pigeon feed.

Birdseed.

9A2215 Tobacco stems Lbs  
6G260.1 Disinfectant Bottle

Disinfectant, Black Flag (liquid), 1 qt. or equal.

Disinfectant, Black Flag (liquid), 1 qt. or equivalent.

6D67 WD, SC Form 67 Book

Pigeon Breeding Record (long).

Pigeon Breeding Log

6D68 WD, SC Form 68 Ea

Pigeon Pedigree (short).

Pigeon Breeding Lineage

6D181 WD, SC Form 181 Pad

Map overlay.

Map overlay.

6D1132 WD, SC Form 1132 Ea

Pigeon Breeding Card.

Pigeon Breeding ID Card.

6D1133 WD, SC Form 1133 Ea

Monthly Pigeon Report.

Monthly Bird Report.

6D1177 WD, SC Form 1177 Ea

Pigeon Pedigree (long).

Pigeon lineage (long).

6D1183 WD, SC Form 1183 Book

Pigeon Flight Record.

Pigeon Flight Log.

30. Message Holders

Message Holder PG-67 consists of a body, cap, leg clamp, strap, and fastener (fig. 23). The body, cap, and leg clamp are made of transparent plastic material.

Message Holder PG-67 has a body, cap, leg clamp, strap, and fastener (fig. 23). The body, cap, and leg clamp are made of clear plastic.

a. To attach message holder to pigeon, place leg clamp of holder, around the aluminum identification band on the pigeon’s leg and secure strap by means of the fastener. The message holder must always be attached with the cap pointing in the direction of the pigeon’s body. If attached with the cap pointing down it will interfere with the bird’s walking. The aluminum bands must be loose enough on the pigeon’s leg to allow the message holder to adjust itself to positions that will not interfere with the bird’s flying. In emergencies, a message holder may be placed on each leg.

a. To attach the message holder to the pigeon, place the leg clamp of the holder around the aluminum identification band on the pigeon’s leg and secure the strap using the fastener. The message holder must always be attached with the cap facing the pigeon’s body. If the cap is pointing down, it will get in the way of the bird’s walking. The aluminum bands should be loose enough on the pigeon’s leg to allow the message holder to adjust to positions that won’t disrupt the bird’s flying. In emergencies, a message holder can be placed on each leg.

b. Pigeons to be used for signal communication should be trained with the message holder attached to the leg to accustom them to carrying it. Pigeons should be distributed to combat troops, with message holders attached if it is known that the receiving troops have not had training or experience in handling the birds. Otherwise, holders may be delivered separately. Personnel of a loft should make every effort to provide message center units being served with necessary information concerning care, handling, and release of birds.

b. Pigeons used for signaling should be trained with the message holder attached to their leg so they get used to carrying it. Pigeons should be given to combat troops with message holders attached if it's known that the receiving troops haven't trained or gained experience with the birds. Otherwise, the holders can be delivered separately. The staff at the loft should do everything possible to provide the message center units they serve with essential information about the care, handling, and release of the birds.

TL70192

Figure 23. Message Holder PG-67.

Figure 23. Message Holder PG-67.

c. To remove a message from a pigeon, catch the bird after it has trapped; hold it in one hand, extend its leg, and remove the message holder with the other hand. Release pigeon in loft.

c. To take a message off a pigeon, catch the bird after it has landed; hold it in one hand, extend its leg, and take out the message holder with the other hand. Release the pigeon in the loft.

d. When it is necessary for a pigeon to carry a message and a message holder is not available, fold message blank, attach it by looping it around the leg band and tie its two ends together with a piece of thread or light weight string.

d. When a pigeon needs to carry a message and you don't have a message holder, fold the message up, loop it around the leg band, and tie the two ends together with a piece of thread or lightweight string.

Caution: NEVER WIND a string or rubber band around a pigeon’s leg because it will stop the circulation and may cause the pigeon to lose its leg.

Caution: NEVER WIND a string or rubber band around a pigeon’s leg because it will cut off circulation and may cause the pigeon to lose its leg.

TL70193

Figure 24. Message holder attached to pigeon’s leg.

Figure 24. Message holder secured to the pigeon’s leg.


SECTION V

TRAINING

31. Responsibility for Training

The commanding officer of a signal pigeon company, or the officer in charge of a pigeon unit, will prepare a training program to serve as a general guide for activities of the unit. Weekly training schedules for the guidance of the enlisted personnel will be based upon this approved training program for the unit.

The commanding officer of a signal pigeon company, or the officer in charge of a pigeon unit, will create a training program to act as a general guide for the unit's activities. Weekly training schedules for the enlisted personnel will be based on this approved training program for the unit.

32. Qualifications for Pigeoneers

a. General. Minimum specifications required for a pigeoneer are——

a. General. Minimum specifications required for a pigeoneer are——

(1) Skill. That required for a basic private, plus the ability to care for, feed properly, catch, and hold pigeons; to attach messages; and to train birds for messenger service.

(1) Skill. That needed for a basic private, along with the ability to take care of, properly feed, catch, and hold pigeons; to attach messages; and to train birds for messenger service.

(2) Knowledge. That required for a basic private, plus a thorough knowledge of capabilities, limitations, and habits of homing pigeons.

(2) Knowledge. The basic knowledge needed for a private, along with a comprehensive understanding of the abilities, limitations, and behaviors of homing pigeons.

(3) Personal traits. A pigeoneer who is boisterous and of a turbulent nature tends to frighten and upset pigeons and thus reduce their effectiveness. The successful pigeoneer should possess——

(3) Personal traits. A pigeoneer who is loud and has a wild nature tends to scare and stress out pigeons, which can lower their performance. The successful pigeoneer should have——

(a) Dependability. To perform all his duties regularly and promptly.

(a) Dependability. To carry out all his responsibilities consistently and on time.

(b) Kindness. To obtain confidence of the pigeons.

(b) Kindness. To gain the trust of the pigeons.

(c) Patience. To spend much time and repeated effort required for training pigeons.

(c) Patience. It takes a lot of time and repeated effort to train pigeons.

(d) Neatness. To maintain a sanitary and attractive loft for the pigeons.

(d) Neatness. To keep a clean and appealing loft for the pigeons.

(e) Firmness. To enforce control over pigeons.

Firmness. To control pigeons.

(f) Power of accurate observation. To note and learn characteristics of individual pigeons in the loft by observing details readily and accurately.

(f) Power of accurate observation. To notice and learn the traits of individual pigeons in the loft by observing details clearly and precisely.

b. Basic training. Only qualified basic privates are selected for pigeoneer training. Skill and knowledge to be attained in this course may be based on this manual.

b. Boot camp. Only qualified basic privates are chosen for pigeoneer training. The skills and knowledge to be gained in this course can be found in this manual.

c. Advance training. Qualified pigeoneers who complete basic training prescribed in b above, and who possess the ability, may be selected for advance training which will prepare them to become specialists or non-commissioned officers. This training will teach:

c. Advanced training. Qualified pigeon handlers who finish the basic training outlined in b above, and who have the necessary skills, may be chosen for advanced training that will prepare them to become specialists or non-commissioned officers. This training will cover:

(1) Skill. (a) Ability to manage a training loft and to train both young and old pigeons.

(1) Skill. (a) Ability to effectively manage a training loft and train both young and older pigeons.

(b) Ability to manage a breeding loft and supervise breeding activities after schedules have been prepared.

(b) Ability to manage a breeding loft and oversee breeding activities once schedules have been made.

(c) Ability to instruct others in (a) and (b) above.

(c) Ability to teach others in (a) and (b) above.

(2) Knowledge. A pigeoneer should possess a thorough knowledge of loft management; feeding, training, and breeding of pigeons; and employment of pigeon communications described in this manual.

(2) Knowledge. A pigeoneer should have a solid understanding of loft management, feeding, training, and breeding of pigeons, as well as how to use the pigeon communications outlined in this manual.

33. Introduction to Pigeon Training

It is almost impossible to prescribe any one method for training homing pigeons. There are certain steps, however, that must be followed if the birds are to give reliable messenger service. The methods for training Army homing pigeons are prescribed in this section. However, they are not the only methods by which birds can be trained. Success with the birds depends largely on the individual pigeoneer’s experience and technical knowledge. This is particularly true concerning operation of combat lofts.

It’s nearly impossible to recommend a single method for training homing pigeons. However, there are specific steps that must be taken for the birds to provide dependable messenger service. The methods for training Army homing pigeons are outlined in this section. However, these aren’t the only ways to train the birds. Achieving success with the birds largely depends on the individual pigeoneer’s experience and expertise. This is especially true when it comes to operating combat lofts.

34. Settling Pigeons

Settling is the process of conditioning a pigeon to return to its home loft when released. Best results can be expected from young birds just out of the nest because settling and resettling become more difficult as the age of the pigeon increases. Many different methods are used to settle pigeons to lofts, and no ironclad rules can be set down to cover all situations. The age of the birds, type of loft, and experience of the pigeoneer will determine the method used and success achieved. Two settling procedures will be explained in this section. The first will be for young birds not strong on the wing, and the second for older birds that are strong on the wing. These procedures are general and may be used, with slight variations, to settle birds to all types of lofts. In the case of the combat loft, however, remember that pigeons are trained to recognize a certain type of loft rather than terrain features or geographic locations. A combat loft is moved daily during training so that the birds do not become accustomed to one location. Otherwise settling to a combat loft is the same as settling to any other loft.

Settling is the process of training a pigeon to find its way back to its home loft when released. The best results come from young birds that have just left the nest because it becomes harder to settle and resettle them as they get older. Various methods are used to settle pigeons to lofts, and there are no strict rules that apply to every situation. The age of the birds, the type of loft, and the experience of the pigeon keeper will influence the method used and the success rate. This section will explain two settling procedures. The first is for young birds that are not very strong in flight, and the second is for older birds that are strong flyers. These procedures are general and can be adapted slightly to settle birds in all types of lofts. However, for the combat loft, keep in mind that pigeons are trained to recognize a specific type of loft rather than features of the landscape or geographic locations. A combat loft is moved daily during training so that the birds do not get used to just one spot. Otherwise, settling to a combat loft is the same as settling to any other loft.

a. Settling birds not strong on wing. The expression “not strong on the wing” means that pigeons do not have sufficient strength in their wings to stay in the air for sustained flight, for example, youngsters removed from the nest when 28 to 36 days old. These young pigeons are tame and easy to handle; they are not as excitable as older birds because their sense of fear has not yet developed. For these reasons they can be easily settled. They are not strong enough on the wing, however, to stay away from the loft for prolonged periods.

a. Birds that can't fly well are settling down. The phrase “not strong on the wing” means that pigeons lack the strength in their wings to maintain flight for long periods, such as when they are taken from the nest at 28 to 36 days old. These young pigeons are docile and easy to manage

(1) Feed and water. Feed birds liberally on the first day they are placed in the loft, but never feed them heavily at any time after that. Make sure the water fountain is placed where it can be found easily. Young pigeons should be kept prisoners for about 2 days. During this time watch them carefully to determine whether all have learned how to drink. If any bird appears sleepy it may not have learned how to drink or where to obtain water. This bird can be taught to drink by forcing its entire beak into the water.

(1) Feed and water. Feed the birds generously on their first day in the loft, but avoid overfeeding them afterward. Ensure the water fountain is accessible. Young pigeons should be kept confined for about 2 days. During this time, watch them closely to see if they all know how to drink. If any bird seems lethargic, it may not have figured out how to drink or where to find water. You can teach this bird to drink by gently pushing its entire beak into the water.

(2) Learning to trap. It is of the utmost importance that pigeons used for delivering messages trap promptly. A bird may be the fastest flyer in the loft yet be useless because it will not trap immediately upon return to the loft. The message cannot be removed from the pigeon’s leg if the bird stays on the roof of the loft instead of entering the trap. For this reason it is essential that trapping exercises be carefully carried out. The best time for this training is when birds are being settled. Install the trap late in the evening of the second day of confinement and allow the youngsters to go out on their own initiative and look around. This enables them to become familiar with the outside of the loft and the surrounding territory. On the third day catch the youngsters, place them on the landing board, and gently push one at a time through the trap. Some birds may take to the wing but they will only stay in the air a few minutes47 at any one time. These pigeons will not fly away; they are merely learning the use of their wings and will return when tired. Place a small amount of feed in the loft during this training and repeat the trapping exercise until the youngsters overcome all fear of the trap. After the birds have learned how to go through the trap allow them to remain outside the loft for about ½ hour and then persuade them to trap into the loft themselves. The birds are especially nervous at this time and should not be frightened. While persuading the birds to enter the loft, the pigeoneer should give them a small amount of feed by hand, and at the same time acquaint them with the feed call.

(2) Learning to trap. It's really important that pigeons used for sending messages trap quickly. A bird might be the fastest in the loft, but it won't be helpful if it doesn’t come inside right away when it returns. The message can’t be taken off the pigeon’s leg if it just sits on the roof instead of going into the trap. That’s why it’s crucial to conduct trapping exercises carefully. The best time for this training is when the birds are being settled. Set up the trap late on the evening of the second day of confinement and let the young birds go out on their own to explore. This helps them get familiar with the loft's exterior and the surrounding area. On the third day, catch the young birds, put them on the landing board, and gently push them through the trap one at a time. Some may start flying, but they will only stay in the air for a few minutes47. These pigeons won’t fly away; they’re just getting the hang of their wings and will come back when they’re tired. Place a little bit of feed in the loft during this training and repeat the trapping exercise until the youngsters aren't afraid of the trap anymore. After the birds have learned how to go through the trap, let them stay outside for about half an hour, then encourage them to come inside on their own. The birds can be especially nervous at this point, so they shouldn't be scared. While coaxing them to enter the loft, the pigeon handler should offer them a small amount of feed by hand and at the same time introduce them to the feed call.

(3) Exercising. On the fourth and following days of training the birds may be turned out morning and late afternoon for approximately ½ hour of exercise. After each exercise period continue training the birds to trap promptly upon their return to the loft. At this time they should be fed only enough to assist in trapping. On these first few days the pigeons may exercise singly or in small groups. On the eighth day or soon after, however, most of the birds will begin to take their exercise flights in one compact flock. As soon as they do this, exercise the birds at noon as this will condition them faster and also accustom them to flying during the heat of the day. If after the seventh day there are a few birds that do not leave the loft for exercise, induce them to fly by pushing them gently off the loft with a bamboo fishing rod or similar pole. After all birds have learned to exercise in a flock for ½ hour or more and then return to the loft they may be considered settled. They are now ready for their first training tosses (par. 35).

(3) Exercising. On the fourth day and onward in training, the birds can be let out in the morning and late afternoon for about 30 minutes of exercise. After each exercise session, continue training the birds to return to the loft promptly. At this time, they should only be fed enough to help with trapping. During these first few days, the pigeons can exercise individually or in small groups. By the eighth day or soon after, most of the birds will start to take their exercise flights together as one flock. When that happens, exercise the birds at noon to help them get in shape faster and get used to flying in the heat of the day. If, after the seventh day, there are still a few birds that don’t leave the loft for exercise, encourage them to fly by gently pushing them off the loft with a bamboo fishing rod or similar pole. Once all the birds have learned to exercise in a flock for 30 minutes or more and then return to the loft, they can be considered settled. They’re now ready for their first training tosses (par. 35).

TL70194

Figure 25. Pigeons in trap of loft.

Figure 25. Pigeons in the loft trap.

b. Settling birds strong on wing. The following method is suggested for settling pigeons that are 36 days of age or older. It is assumed48 that these birds have been trained to trap and that they are familiar with the feed call. If they have not been taught to trap, then such training must be carried on in conjunction with this method of settling. It is necessary to use a wire inclosure such as a settling cage in teaching these birds to trap because they will fly away if not confined.

b. Birds settling strongly on wing. The following method is suggested for settling pigeons that are 36 days old or older. It is assumed48 that these birds have been trained to trap and are familiar with the feed call. If they haven't been taught to trap, then that training must happen alongside this settling method. It's essential to use a wire enclosure, like a settling cage, to teach these birds to trap because they will fly away if not contained.

TL70195

Figure 26. Hand-feeding pigeons in loft.

Figure 26. Feeding pigeons by hand in the loft.

(1) Hunger and tameness. These are the two most important factors in settling birds strong on the wing, and the extent to which they are49 developed and controlled will greatly determine the speed with which the pigeons can be settled.

(1) Hunger and tameness. These are the two main factors in getting birds that are strong in flight to settle down, and how well they are49 developed and managed will significantly affect how quickly the pigeons can settle.

(a) Hunger. Never feed pigeons a full ration of feed at any one time during the settling period. Keep them definitely on the hungry side at all times. This serves to impress upon them that the loft is the place to find food. Hand-feeding will control the distribution of feed and, at the same time, encourage the birds to become tame. Pigeoneers are urged to hand-feed their birds at all times if possible.

(a) Hunger. Never give pigeons a full meal all at once during the settling period. Always keep them a bit hungry. This helps them realize that the loft is where they can find food. Hand-feeding will help control how feed is distributed and, at the same time, encourage the birds to become friendly. Pigeoneers are encouraged to hand-feed their birds as much as possible.

(b) Tameness. The pigeoneer should spend as much time as he can in the loft with the birds. The loft should be arranged so that the birds will be near the pigeoneer. This will serve a double purpose: the pigeoneer becomes better acquainted with his birds, and they in turn lose all fear of him.

(b) Tameness. The pigeon keeper should spend as much time as possible in the loft with the birds. The loft should be set up so that the birds are close to the pigeon keeper. This serves two purposes: the pigeon keeper gets to know his birds better, and they, in turn, become completely unafraid of him.

(2) Confinement. It may be necessary to confine these birds for several days, depending on their age. A settling cage to fit on the landing board and roof of the loft may be constructed from wood and wire mesh (fig. 27). This confines the pigeons, but at the same time allows them to become acquainted with the roof, landing board, trap, and immediate territory around the loft. The qualified pigeoneer can anticipate by the tameness, hunger, and actions of the birds, when they are ready to be given their first freedom.

(2) Confinement. It might be necessary to keep these birds confined for several days, depending on their age. You can build a settling cage that fits on the landing board and roof of the loft using wood and wire mesh (fig. 27). This keeps the pigeons secure while also letting them get familiar with the roof, landing board, trap, and the surrounding area of the loft. An experienced pigeoneer can tell by the birds' calmness, hunger, and behavior when they are ready for their first release.

(3) First freedom. Days with overcast skies or light rains are most favorable for first releasing the birds. Best results can be expected if birds are released in the late afternoon when they are hungry. When the pigeoneer determines that the birds are ready to be given their freedom, or on the third or fourth day of settling at the new location, the following procedure is observed:

(3) First freedom. Days with cloudy skies or light rain are ideal for releasing the birds for the first time. The best results can be expected if the birds are let go in the late afternoon when they are hungry. When the pigeoneer decides it's time to set the birds free, usually on the third or fourth day of settling into the new spot, the following procedure is followed:

Force all of the pigeons into the settling cage, except for three or four birds chosen in advance for their tameness. Give this small group of birds their freedom. Pigeons love company; therefore, after taking to the air, these birds will usually be attracted back by the remaining birds in the settling cage. After the pigeons circle the loft a few times call them in to prevent them from straying. For this first liberation move the settling cage on the loft far enough to one side to expose approximately half of the trap. This permits the pigeons to enter the loft as soon as they return.

Force all the pigeons into the settling cage, leaving out three or four birds selected beforehand for their docility. Let this small group of birds go free. Pigeons enjoy being around others; so, after they take off, these birds will typically be drawn back by the rest of the pigeons in the settling cage. After the pigeons circle the loft a few times, call them in to keep them from wandering off. For this first release, move the settling cage to the side of the loft enough to reveal about half of the trap. This allows the pigeons to enter the loft as soon as they return.

When the first group returns satisfactorily, give another small group their freedom. The number of birds in the subsequent groups may be increased if satisfactory results are obtained with the first few groups. If the first group, or any part of it fails to return, however, no other birds should be given their freedom that day. Repeat this procedure the following day.

When the first group comes back successfully, let another small group go free. You can increase the number of birds in the next groups if the first few groups do well. However, if the first group, or any part of it, doesn’t come back, no other birds should be released that day. Do this again the next day.

At no time during the first 2 days of liberty should the entire flock be given its freedom at one time. After approximately 50 percent of the birds has been given their liberty one or more times, the entire flock may be given open loft and permitted to go in and out at will during the late afternoon. Give open loft again the next day at the same time. On subsequent days allow the birds their freedom each morning and evening for approximately ½ hour of exercise.

At no point during the first 2 days of freedom should the whole flock be allowed to roam free at once. After about 50 percent of the birds have had their chance to fly out a few times, the entire flock can be given open loft and allowed to come and go as they please during the late afternoon. Provide open loft again the next day at the same time. In the following days, let the birds have their freedom each morning and evening for about ½ hour of exercise.

Any birds that fail to take to the air should be gently forced to exercise. Noon exercise periods will accustom birds to flying in the heat of the day. When all birds have learned to exercise freely in a flock and then return to the loft they are considered settled and ready for further training as message carriers.

Any birds that don't take to the air should be gently encouraged to exercise. Afternoon exercise sessions will help birds get used to flying in the heat of the day. Once all birds have learned to fly freely in a group and then return to the loft, they are considered settled and ready for more training as message carriers.

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Figure 27. Settling cage for loft, PG-68/TB.

Figure 27. Settling cage for loft, PG-68/TB.

(4) Summary. These essential points are to be remembered in settling young pigeons:

(4) Summary. Keep these key points in mind when raising young pigeons:

(a) Teach birds to enter loft immediately after each exercise flight. Loitering outside may become a fixed habit which will make the birds undesirable for messenger service.

(a) Teach birds to go into the loft right after each exercise flight. Hanging around outside can turn into a habit that makes the birds unsuitable for messenger service.

(b) Never drive pigeons from the loft during the first few days of settling.

(b) Never chase pigeons out of the loft during the first few days of getting settled.

(c) Be sure pigeons are exercised and fed regularly.

(c) Make sure to exercise and feed the pigeons regularly.

(d) Keep birds as tame as possible and do not overfeed them.

(d) Keep birds as tame as you can and don’t feed them too much.

(e) At no time allow the birds to become frightened.

(e) Never let the birds get scared.

(f) Do not interpret these instructions on settling as ironclad rules. It may be necessary to vary them from time to time, depending upon the situation.

(f) Don't treat these instructions on settling as strict rules. You might need to adjust them occasionally, depending on the circumstances.

35. Training for Messenger Service

This training is started as soon as the birds have been settled to the loft from which they will be distributed. All pigeons except those specifically reserved for breeding purposes may undergo training continuously from the time they are 28 days old until they are no longer suitable for messenger service. Fundamentally, the methods for training pigeons to mobile combat lofts are the same as those for stationary lofts. To avoid confusion, any difference in method will be noted in the following paragraphs.

This training begins as soon as the birds are settled into the loft where they will be released. All pigeons except those set aside for breeding can train continuously from 28 days old until they’re no longer fit for messenger service. Essentially, the training methods for pigeons in mobile combat lofts are the same as those for stationary lofts. To avoid confusion, any differences in the methods will be explained in the following paragraphs.

a. Conditioning. The first step in training homing pigeons for messenger service is to develop the health and strength necessary to endure sustained flight. This process is called conditioning. The degree of training necessary to condition the birds will vary with the mission for which they are being trained. Birds that will be required to fly long distances will necessarily be given longer and more intensive training than birds that will be required to fly only short distances.

a. Training. The first step in training homing pigeons for messenger service is to build the health and strength needed for long flights. This process is known as conditioning. The amount of training needed to condition the birds will depend on the mission they are being prepared for. Birds that need to fly long distances will require longer and more intense training compared to those that will only need to fly short distances.

(1) Health of the pigeon is dependent on proper care. Overcrowding of birds should be avoided at all times. Good loft sanitation and ventilation, together with proper diet and uncontaminated drinking water, are factors in health that are under the control of the pigeoneer. He is therefore largely responsible for the over-all health of pigeons in his loft.

(1) Health of the pigeon relies on proper care. Overcrowding birds should be avoided at all times. Good loft cleanliness and ventilation, along with a proper diet and clean drinking water, are health factors that the pigeon owner can control. Therefore, they are largely responsible for the overall health of the pigeons in their loft.

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Figure 28. Releasing pigeons from Crate PG-49.

Figure 28. Letting pigeons go from Crate PG-49.

(2) Strength is developed by exercise flights around the loft, and by training flights made from distant points.

(2) Strength is built through exercise flights around the loft and by training flights taken from far-off locations.

b. Training flights. Pigeons may be given training flights in groups, in pairs, or singly. This training procedure is sometimes called “taking the birds down the road for a training toss.”

b. Training flights. Pigeons can be taken for training flights in groups, pairs, or alone. This training method is sometimes referred to as “taking the birds down the road for a training toss.”

(1) Group tossing. Three or more birds are released at one time. Young birds are gregarious and will work more satisfactorily when released in small groups rather than individually. For this reason birds being given their first training flights should be group tossed.

(1) Group tossing. Three or more birds are released at the same time. Young birds are social and will perform better when released in small groups rather than one by one. For this reason, birds taking their first training flights should be group tossed.

(2) Double tossing. A flock of pigeons is released in pairs; each pair is permitted sufficient time to disappear before the next pair is released.

(2) Double tossing. A group of pigeons is set free in pairs; each pair is given enough time to fly away before the next pair is released.

(3) Single tossing. One bird at a time is released and permitted to return to the loft alone. This is valuable training and all birds should be given two or more single tosses of 10 or more miles before being used in messenger service. Single tossing should not be practiced at distances in excess of 10 miles until the pigeons have been well settled in a particular location.

(3) Single tossing. One bird at a time is released and allowed to return to the loft by itself. This is important training, and all birds should receive two or more single tosses of at least 10 miles before being used for messenger service. Single tossing should not be done at distances longer than 10 miles until the pigeons have become well adjusted to a specific location.

(4) Use of cage PG-50 in training. Preliminary training of pigeons should include several brief periods of confinement in the 10-bird training cage PG-50. After a period of confinement open doors carefully and allow the birds to emerge of their own free will. The release point should be within sight of the loft.

(4) Use of cage PG-50 in training. Initial training of pigeons should involve a few short sessions of confinement in the 10-bird training cage PG-50. After a time of confinement, gently open the doors and let the birds come out on their own. The release point should be visible from the loft.

(5) Use of pigeon equipment PG-103/CB and PG-105/CB. Pigeons to be used for carrying messages should be released from these 2- or 4-bird containers after a brief interval of confinement. This will accustom them to the boxes before combat use. Make sure fresh water is available for the birds during confinement period.

(5) Use of pigeon equipment PG-103/CB and PG-105/CB. Pigeons meant for carrying messages should be released from these 2- or 4-bird containers after a short time of confinement. This will help them get used to the boxes before being used in combat. Ensure that fresh water is available for the birds during their confinement.

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Figure 29. Cage PG-50, containing pigeons.

Figure 29. Cage PG-50, holding pigeons.

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Figure 30. Releasing pigeons from Pigeon Equipment PG-103/CB.

Figure 30. Releasing pigeons from Pigeon Equipment PG-103/CB.

c. Advanced training flights. Advanced training of military pigeons is primarily directional flight training, that is, releasing training pigeons to fly back in one general direction from various distances along the same course. The course may be north, south, east or west as determined by the location of the loft in relation to the point of release. Directional flights are the most suitable for military use, since speed and reliability of the bird are considerably increased and the time involved in training is comparatively short. If properly trained, however, pigeons will return to their loft from reasonable distances in any direction. A return flight from a direction different from the trained line of flight would be called a nondirectional flight. The speed from nondirectional flights will usually be slower and less reliable than from directional flights. This is particularly true when the pigeon must fly from the opposite direction of the trained line of flight. For nondirectional flights to be reliable, pigeons should be given training tosses from varying distances from all points of the compass. Since this type of training is not stressed in the Army Pigeon Service the subject will not be discussed any further.

c. Advanced training flights. Advanced training for military pigeons mainly involves directional flight training, which means releasing training pigeons to return from various distances in a consistent direction. The direction can be north, south, east, or west, based on the loft's location relative to the release point. Directional flights are ideal for military purposes, as they significantly improve the birds' speed and reliability, while the training time is relatively short. If trained properly, pigeons can return to their loft from reasonable distances in any direction. A return flight from a different direction than the trained one is known as a nondirectional flight. The speed of nondirectional flights is generally slower and less reliable compared to directional flights, especially when the pigeon has to come back from the opposite direction of the trained path. To ensure nondirectional flights are reliable, pigeons should be trained with releases from various distances and all compass points. Since this type of training isn't emphasized in the Army Pigeon Service, it won't be discussed further.

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Figure 31. Pigeon Equipment PG-105/CB, containing pigeons.

Figure 31. Pigeon Equipment PG-105/CB, which holds pigeons.

(1) Directional training to stationary lofts. The stationary loft training chart (fig. 32) will aid the pigeoneer in directional training of pigeons when the loft is in a permanent location. During training, flight speeds will average 30 miles an hour from distances of 13 miles or more if a direct line of flight is followed. When the training flights (fig. 32) have been completed, the speed of pigeons will usually be faster than 37½ miles an hour. To maintain this speed approximately once a week give pigeons one flight from 40 to 50 miles and two or more short flights from 15 to 20 miles. Such flights will keep the birds in condition for messenger service from distances up to 125 miles. Any bird returning in bad condition will be benefited more by a rest of 3 or more days than by further training. If birds exceed 40 miles an hour on their first training flight from release55 points of 13 miles or more, they may be failing to observe variations in topography. Therefore, to be conservative during this training period, release them again from the same point in order that they may learn thoroughly the physical characteristics of the region over which they fly. This second liberation from the same point greatly assists in avoiding losses at future liberating points from greater distances. A second liberation is also recommended if the birds return at speeds of less than 20 miles an hour, since it can be assumed that they did not follow a direct line of flight. A second flight over the same course gives the birds an opportunity to learn a more direct line of flight. Unless adverse weather conditions exist, pigeons generally continue to fly in a direct line once it is learned. Strong head winds and the need to fly around local storms will slow the birds down.

(1) Directional training for stationary lofts. The stationary loft training chart (fig. 32) will help the pigeon trainer in directional training of pigeons when the loft is permanently located. During training, flight speeds will average 30 miles per hour over distances of 13 miles or more if a straight line of flight is followed. After the training flights (fig. 32) are finished, the pigeons will typically fly faster than 37½ miles per hour. To maintain this speed, give the pigeons one flight of 40 to 50 miles and two or more short flights of 15 to 20 miles approximately once a week. These flights will keep the birds fit for messenger duty over distances of up to 125 miles. Any bird returning in poor condition will benefit more from a rest of 3 or more days than from additional training. If birds exceed 40 miles per hour on their first training flight from release points of 13 miles or more, they may not be fully observing the landscape. Therefore, to be cautious during this training period, release them again from the same point so they can thoroughly learn the physical features of the area over which they fly. This second release from the same point greatly helps in preventing losses at future release points from greater distances. A second release is also advised if the birds come back at speeds of less than 20 miles per hour, as this suggests they did not fly a direct line. A second flight over the same route gives the birds a chance to learn a more direct path. Unless poor weather conditions occur, pigeons usually continue to fly in a straight line once they've learned it. Strong headwinds and the need to navigate around local storms will slow them down.

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Figure 32. Stationary loft training chart.

Figure 32. Stationary loft training chart.

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Figure 33. Combat loft training chart.

Figure 33. Combat loft training chart.

(2) Directional training to combat lofts. Combat (or mobile) lofts are used during combat when it is necessary to establish immediate pigeon communication. Since pigeons may be required to furnish reliable messenger service within 8 days after moving to a new location, their training must be carefully planned and skillfully accomplished. Flight training begins as soon as the loft is established near the headquarters to be served. Until this time, however, the birds are not given any training tosses. They are, of course, fully settled to the loft and have been taking daily exercise flights around the loft at each new location to which the loft has been moved. Give the birds their first exercise flight shortly after establishing the new location. After the birds have had a brief rest they are given their first training toss. If weather permits, group toss the birds many times each day thereafter. Increase the distance and reduce the size of57 the group each day so that the birds may be trained to distances of 25 to 50 miles in 5 days. When giving this flight training, follow the combat loft training chart shown in figure 36.

(2) Directional training for combat lofts. Combat (or mobile) lofts are used during missions when immediate pigeon communication is crucial. Since pigeons may need to provide reliable messenger service within 8 days after relocating, their training has to be thoughtfully planned and executed with skill. Flight training starts as soon as the loft is set up near the headquarters it will serve. Until then, the birds do not receive any training tosses. They are, however, fully settled into the loft and have been flying around it daily at each new location where the loft has been moved. Give the birds their first exercise flight soon after establishing the new location. After a short rest, they receive their first training toss. Weather permitting, toss the birds in groups multiple times each day afterward. Gradually increase the distance and decrease the size of57 the group each day, training the birds to distances of 25 to 50 miles within 5 days. When conducting this flight training, adhere to the combat loft training chart shown in figure 36.

d. Remobile training. (1) Remobiling. After combat birds have been moved into a stationary position and have been flown from this location, it is desirable to train them to mobility again before moving them into a new location. This process is called remobiling and can best be accomplished by moving the loft only a few feet at a time until the pigeons again become accustomed to having it moved. The birds will seem quite nervous and a few may settle on the ground or fail to enter the loft the first few times it is moved. The birds should become accustomed to searching for the loft regardless of its location. After this stage of training has been reached, the loft should be moved farther and farther away from the old location. Work the pigeons as a regular mobile team from this point on, always making sure that the birds are allowed plenty of time in the settling cage before they are released. This process of remobiling homing pigeons can best be accomplished with young birds that have not been settled in one location for more than 6 weeks. If there is a shortage of young birds and it is necessary to use older birds which have been remobiled numerous times, transport them to the new location as many times as possible. Feed the birds at the new location and never at the old home loft. The birds will thus learn to retrace their flight to the new loft if they return to their previous location. This method is useful only when the new location is known in advance. Birds that fail to perform properly as message carriers and are unsuitable for breeding purposes should be destroyed. Birds showing symptoms of sickness should be removed from the loft and forwarded for hospitalization, or destroyed if hospitalization facilities are not available.

d. Mobile training. (1) Remobiling. After combat birds have been placed in a stationary position and flown from there, it's important to retrain them for mobility before moving them to a new location. This process is called remobiling and works best by moving the loft only a few feet at a time until the pigeons get used to it being relocated. The birds may appear quite anxious, and some might land on the ground or not enter the loft during the first few moves. They should become accustomed to looking for the loft no matter where it is located. Once they've reached this training stage, the loft should be moved progressively farther away from the original spot. From this point onward, work with the pigeons as a regular mobile team, ensuring they have plenty of time in the settling cage before being released. Remobiling homing pigeons is most effective with young birds that have not been settled in one place for more than 6 weeks. If there aren’t enough young birds available and you need to use older birds that have been remobilized multiple times, move them to the new location as often as possible. Feed the birds at the new location only and never at the old loft. This way, they will learn to return to the new loft if they go back to their previous spot. This method is only effective when the new location is known beforehand. Birds that do not perform well as message carriers and aren’t suitable for breeding should be disposed of. Sick birds should be removed from the loft and taken for treatment, or euthanized if treatment isn’t an option.

(2) Reestablishing new location. If the tactical situation requires the message center to be moved forward, a new loft with birds that have been trained in mobility will be placed in the new location. The old loft may continue to operate until the new loft has established reliable communication. This method of operation insures continuous message service. As soon as the new loft has established reliable message service, the old loft will be removed, and if the birds are still suitable for combat loft flying the loft will be remobiled. If the birds are no longer suitable for combat flying because of numerous resettling at different locations, or from being settled in one location too long, they may be returned to the base camp and put in one of the breeding sections. The combat loft will then be restocked with new youngsters from the breeding lofts and training in mobility will begin.

(2) Setting up a new location. If the tactical situation requires moving the message center forward, a new loft with birds that have been trained for mobility will be established at the new site. The old loft may keep operating until the new loft has established reliable communication. This approach ensures continuous message service. Once the new loft has established reliable messaging, the old loft will be taken down, and if the birds are still fit for combat loft flying, the loft will be moved again. If the birds are no longer suitable for combat flying due to frequent relocations or staying in one spot for too long, they can be taken back to the base camp and placed in one of the breeding sections. The combat loft will then be replenished with new young birds from the breeding lofts, and training in mobility will begin.

e. Training precautions. (1) Overtraining. Care should be taken during flight training not to overtrain the birds. Such training does more harm than good, particularly if long distances are involved. Overtraining can be detected by the slightly dizzy, sleepy, and unbalanced appearance of the birds while resting. When this condition occurs, allow the pigeon to rest for a few days with open loft but no forced exercise.

e. Training safety measures. (1) Overtraining. It’s important in flight training to avoid overtraining the birds. This can cause more harm than benefit, especially when long distances are involved. Signs of overtraining include birds looking a bit dizzy, sleepy, and unsteady while resting. When this happens, let the pigeon rest for a few days in an open loft without forcing any exercise.

(2) Feed mixtures while training. The birds should have access to fresh water and grit at all times. Make sure that the feed is clean and in the best possible condition. Never change the mixture during training or while the pigeons are being used for messenger service because the change will throw the birds out of condition.

(2) Feed mixtures while training. The birds should always have access to fresh water and grit. Ensure the feed is clean and in the best possible condition. Never change the mixture during training or while the pigeons are used for messenger service because any change will affect the birds' condition.

(3) Training losses. Forcing the birds to undertake distant flying before they become properly settled to a location causes frequent losses58 during the training stage. Care should be taken to limit the first few training flights to distances of approximately 1 mile or less.

(3) Training losses. Making the birds fly long distances before they are properly settled in a location leads to frequent losses58 during the training stage. It’s important to keep the first few training flights to distances of about 1 mile or less.

(4) Catching pigeons. The pigeoneer should avoid quick or sudden movements in the loft and should never chase the birds in order to catch them. When it is necessary to catch pigeons during daylight hours, close the blackout windows or insert the shutters to darken the loft. The pigeons may then be picked up easily with the aid of a flashlight. The pigeoneer should avoid catching the pigeons in the loft immediately after their return from a training flight.

(4) Catching pigeons. The person handling the pigeons should avoid quick or sudden movements in the loft and should never chase the birds to catch them. When it's necessary to catch pigeons during the day, close the blackout windows or put up the shutters to darken the loft. The pigeons can then be easily picked up using a flashlight. The person handling the pigeons should avoid catching them in the loft right after they come back from a training flight.

36. Delivering Pigeons by Parachute

a. Equipment. Parachute equipment PG-100/CB consists of a collapsible, cylinder-type, 4-bird container and a 6-foot hemispherical baseball-type parachute with a quick release clip. Parachute equipment PG-101/CB is of similar design except that the container has an 8-bird capacity and is attached to a 9-foot parachute. This equipment is specifically designed to supply initially or to resupply pigeons to infantry parachute troops, infantry glider troops, or any isolated forces requiring delivery of pigeons by air.

a. Gear. The PG-100/CB parachute equipment includes a collapsible, cylindrical container that holds 4 birds and a 6-foot hemispherical parachute similar to a baseball style, featuring a quick release clip. The PG-101/CB parachute equipment has a similar design but can hold 8 birds in its container and is connected to a 9-foot parachute. This equipment is specifically designed to initially supply or resupply pigeons to infantry parachute troops, infantry glider troops, or any isolated forces that need pigeons delivered by air.

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Figure 34. Factory-packed parachute equipment PG-100/CB, containing pigeons.

Figure 34. Factory-packed parachute gear PG-100/CB, including pigeons.

b. Instructions for use. To insure safe delivery of the pigeons, caution must be observed when attaching containers to the parachutes.

b. Instructions for use. To ensure safe delivery of the pigeons, care must be taken when attaching containers to the parachutes.

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Figure 35. Parachute laid out on flat surface.

Figure 35. Parachute spread out on a flat surface.

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Figure 36. Parachute folded lengthwise.

Figure 36. Parachute folded lengthwise.

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Figure 37. Parachute folded into pack.

Figure 37. Parachute packed into its container.

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Figure 38. Parachute pack tied and static line attached.

Figure 38. Parachute pack secured and static line connected.

61 The instructions printed on each parachute pack should be strictly adhered to.

61 The instructions on each parachute pack should be followed exactly.

c. Results. Best results will be obtained when pigeons are launched between the altitudes of 200 and 1,000 feet with air speed not exceeding 125 miles an hour. Pigeons launched within these general limits are less likely to become lost because of excessive drift. The possibility of injury to the birds from high speed air rushing through the container, or from shock when the parachute opens, will be reduced to a minimum.

c. Outcomes. The best outcomes will occur when pigeons are released between altitudes of 200 and 1,000 feet, with speeds not exceeding 125 miles per hour. Pigeons released within these general guidelines are less likely to get lost due to excessive drifting. The risk of injury to the birds from high-speed air rushing through the container or from the shock of the parachute deploying will be kept to a minimum.

d. Instructions for repacking parachutes. The following method is suggested for repacking either 6- or 9-foot parachutes for future use after they have been used once for dropping pigeons to ground troops.

d. Parachute repacking instructions. The following method is recommended for repacking either 6- or 9-foot parachutes for future use after they have been used once to drop pigeons to ground troops.

(1) Stretch parachute full length, with one man holding the canopy at the center of the top and another man holding the shroud lines taut at the shroud line separator disk. Straighten all shroud lines, making sure none are twisted. Lay the parachute on a flat surface and pick each fold of the canopy as one would pick petals from a flower, dividing the folds and associated shroud lines equally on each side (fig. 35). Eliminate creases by running the hand between the folds.

(1) Stretch the parachute out fully, with one person holding the canopy at the center of the top and another person keeping the shroud lines tight at the shroud line separator disk. Straighten all the shroud lines, making sure none are twisted. Lay the parachute flat and pick each fold of the canopy like you would pick petals from a flower, dividing the folds and associated shroud lines evenly on each side (fig. 35). Remove creases by running your hand between the folds.

(2) Make an “S” fold in the canopy lengthwise from the crown (fig. 36). The hem will form a large letter “S” if the fold is made properly.

(2) Make an “S” fold in the canopy lengthwise from the crown (fig. 36). The hem will create a big letter “S” if the fold is done correctly.

(3) Lay the shroud lines in small “S” folds on the canopy starting approximately 10 or 12 inches back from the hem, making a sufficient number of folds to bring the shroud line separator disk close to the hem of the canopy. The parachute is now ready to be folded into a pack. To do this, make three accordion folds in the canopy (fig. 37).

(3) Lay the shroud lines in small “S” folds on the canopy starting about 10 to 12 inches back from the edge, making enough folds to bring the shroud line separator disk close to the edge of the canopy. The parachute is now ready to be packed. To do this, make three accordion folds in the canopy (fig. 37).

(4) Tie the folded canopy in position with two tie cords of not more than 15 pounds strength. Place one cord approximately 2½ inches back from the hem and the other cord 2½ inches from the end of the pack. Attach the static line to the tie cord near the end of the pack, leaving enough tail for another tie to be made to the other tie cord near the hem with 3 inches of slack left between the two ties (fig. 38). The static line must have a tensile strength of at least 200 pounds and be 15 feet long. The 3 inches of slack left between the two ties are necessary for each tie cord to receive a sharp individual snap; otherwise both cords will break simultaneously.

(4) Secure the folded canopy in place with two tie cords that can handle up to 15 pounds of strength. Position one cord about 2½ inches back from the hem and the other cord 2½ inches from the end of the pack. Attach the static line to the tie cord close to the end of the pack, ensuring there's enough length left to make another tie to the other tie cord near the hem, leaving 3 inches of slack between the two ties (fig. 38). The static line needs to have a tensile strength of at least 200 pounds and should be 15 feet long. The 3 inches of slack between the two ties are essential so that each tie cord experiences a sharp individual snap; otherwise, both cords may break at the same time.

(5) Push the remainder of the static cord between one of the folds in the parachute. The parachute is now ready for reuse.

(5) Tuck the extra static cord into one of the folds in the parachute. The parachute is now ready to be used again.


SECTION VI

MATING AND BREEDING

37. Mating

a. General. Pigeons will keep the same mate for life unless forcibly separated. The desire to mate is a natural instinct. Since pigeons are monogamous their mating can be controlled for breeding purposes. If left to their own inclinations, pigeons will mate between the ages of 4 and 9 months. Mating for breeding purposes, however, should not be permitted until pigeons are at least 9 months of age.

a. General. Pigeons will stick with the same partner for life unless they are separated against their will. The urge to mate is a natural instinct. Because pigeons are monogamous, their mating can be managed for breeding purposes. If left to their own devices, pigeons will typically start mating between the ages of 4 and 9 months. However, for breeding purposes, they shouldn't be allowed to mate until they are at least 9 months old.

b. Purpose. The aim in mating is to produce youngsters which are equal, if not superior, in ability, to either of the parents. Such youngsters are obtained by selecting breeder stock with pedigree, performance, physical qualities, and temperament which will probably produce youngsters of the required type.

b. Goal. The goal of breeding is to create offspring that are equal to, if not better than, either parent in capability. These offspring are achieved by choosing breeding stock based on their lineage, performance, physical traits, and temperament, which are likely to produce the desired type of young.

38. Sex

a. Sex of the pigeon is difficult to determine without experience; however, some external characteristics help recognition. Under ordinary circumstances the cock usually has—

a. It's hard to figure out the sex of a pigeon without experience; however, some external traits can help with identification. Usually, the male pigeon has—

(1) Broader skull.

Wider skull.

(2) Larger head.

Bigger head.

(3) Larger bill and wattle.

Larger bill and wattles.

(4) Stronger neck.

Stronger neck.

(5) Broader shoulders.

Wider shoulders.

(6) Closer vent bones.

(6) Closer ventilation bones.

(7) Larger legs and feet.

Bigger legs and feet.

b. In some cases, where the physical characteristics of the male and female are similar, it is often necessary to observe their actions when together to determine sex. Some of the common actions of the cock are:

b. In some situations, where the physical traits of males and females are alike, it’s often essential to watch their behavior when they’re together to identify their sex. Some of the typical behaviors of the male are:

(1) Chasing hen when cooing.

Chasing a hen while cooing.

(2) Scraping of the tail when cooing.

(2) Scratching of the tail while cooing.

(3) Pecking the head of the hen when she shows no desire to mate.

(3) Pecking the hen on the head when she doesn't want to mate.

(4) Cock’s coo is deep and full, while hen’s is sharp.

(4) The rooster's crow is deep and strong, while the hen's cluck is sharp.

39. Selection of Stock

a. General. Stock for breeding at a loft should be selected with the advice of the pigeon expert in charge of breeding. The pigeoneer who desires to become an expert in the art of breeding pigeons is encouraged to study additional literature on this subject. The pedigree for at least two generations is used to determine probable qualities of future youngsters since it shows family, strain, and kind of flying in which the birds excel, as well as the performance of other youngsters produced by the same parent.

a. General. Stock for breeding at a loft should be chosen with the guidance of the pigeon expert overseeing the breeding process. Anyone looking to become skilled in breeding pigeons is encouraged to read more literature on the topic. The pedigree for at least two generations is used to assess the likely traits of future offspring, as it reveals the family, strain, and type of flying the birds excel in, along with the performance of other young birds produced by the same parents.

b. Physical qualities. Pigeons selected for breeding should be in good health and as nearly perfect physically as possible. A pigeon which63 has had a serious injury, or has been very ill, is unsuitable. The following physical qualities are desirable:

b. Physical traits. Pigeons chosen for breeding should be healthy and as close to perfect physically as possible. A pigeon that63 has suffered a serious injury or has been very sick is not a good choice. The following physical qualities are preferred:

(1) Feathers. Feathers should be of good quality. Flights, which are most important, should be heavy and wide, and should overlap when the wing is extended, showing no gaps. Birds with very thin flight should not be bred. Body feathers should be soft and plentiful. Those on neck and chest should be glossy and iridescent.

(1) Feathers. Feathers should be high quality. Flight feathers, which are the most important, should be heavy and wide, and they should overlap when the wing is extended, showing no gaps. Birds with very thin flight feathers should not be bred. Body feathers should be soft and abundant. The feathers on the neck and chest should be shiny and iridescent.

(2) Eye. The eye is complex and is of great importance. It should never be of a sunken or extended nature, but should completely fill the orbit (bone cavity containing the eye) and be surrounded by a fine white textured cere. The eye should be clear and bright; its color is of no importance. The eye may be best examined with a magnifying glass.

(2) Eye. The eye is complex and very important. It should never appear sunken or protruding, but should fully occupy the orbit (the bone cavity that holds the eye) and be surrounded by a nice, textured white area. The eye should be clear and bright; its color doesn’t matter. It’s best to examine the eye with a magnifying glass.

(a) The pupil is approximately one-third the size of the eye. It dilates and contracts according to intensity of light and distance of object being focused. The pupil should be black and brilliant.

(a) The pupil is about one-third the size of the eye. It expands and shrinks based on light intensity and the distance of the object being focused on. The pupil should be black and shiny.

(b) A thin visible muscle (often called the scouting sight) should completely encircle the pupil. This muscle dilates and contracts the pupil. A portion of the muscle may be of a darker shade and located either at the front or lower front of the pupil. This muscle should be prominent in at least one of the birds selected for breeding to produce a higher percentage of dependable birds. If pigeons which do not possess this muscle, or which have only a small portion of it visible, are to be used for breeding purposes, they should be mated to pigeons having a muscle which is more prominent even though it may not completely surround the pupil.

(b) A thin visible muscle (often referred to as the scouting sight) should completely surround the pupil. This muscle controls the dilation and contraction of the pupil. A part of the muscle may have a darker color and be located at the front or lower front of the pupil. This muscle should be noticeable in at least one of the birds chosen for breeding to produce a higher percentage of reliable birds. If pigeons without this muscle or with only a small part visible are used for breeding, they should be paired with pigeons that have a more prominent muscle, even if it doesn’t completely surround the pupil.

(c) The iris determines the color of the eye. It should be well blended and possess the brilliance denoting life and observance. Pigeons possessing faded or weak eyes are not desirable for breeding purposes.

(c) The iris determines the color of the eye. It should be well blended and have the brightness that signifies life and awareness. Pigeons with dull or weak eyes are not desirable for breeding.

Splashed birds often possess a “bull eye” which has an iris of a solid, dark purplish-brown color. When this color appears only on a part of the iris, the bird has a splashed eye. It is hard to detect the muscle surrounding the pupil when the “bull eye” is present.

Splashed birds often have a “bull eye” that features a solid, dark purplish-brown iris. When this color is only seen in part of the iris, the bird is said to have a splashed eye. The muscle around the pupil is difficult to see when the “bull eye” is present.

The color of the iris may be maroon, ruby-red, rose, pink, walnut, chestnut-brown, orange, yellow-orange, carrot, violet, grayish white, or pearl. When the iris consists of one color only, it will be considered a “full eye.” Two colors may occasionally be present in the iris, such as red and yellow, orange and yellow, and so forth. The two colors should be well blended in any case. “Full eyes” and “two-colored eyes” are both satisfactory for breeding purposes. Mated birds should have irises of similar shades.

The color of the iris can be maroon, ruby-red, rose, pink, walnut, chestnut-brown, orange, yellow-orange, carrot, violet, grayish white, or pearl. If the iris is just one color, it’s called a “full eye.” Sometimes, two colors can show up in the iris, like red and yellow or orange and yellow, and they should blend well together. Both “full eyes” and “two-colored eyes” are acceptable for breeding purposes. Mated birds should have irises in similar shades.

The outer part of the iris is normally darkest; the color diminishes toward the center of the eye. This coloring is more pronounced when the birds are in top condition.

The outer part of the iris is usually the darkest, with the color fading toward the center of the eye. This coloring is more noticeable when the birds are in peak condition.

(d) The thin line circumscribing the iris should be extremely dark and very distinct.

(d) The thin line around the iris should be very dark and clear.

(e) The remainder of the eyeball should be dark and well covered by the cere. The bird is said to have an “open eye” when the portion of the eyeball which should be covered by the cere is visible. Birds with open eyes are undesirable for breeding.

(e) The rest of the eyeball should be dark and fully covered by the cere. A bird is considered to have an “open eye” when the part of the eyeball that should be covered by the cere is showing. Birds with open eyes are not preferable for breeding.

(f) The upper and lower lids are a part of the eye cere. A third lid which is a transparent membrane frees the eye from foreign material. The blinking of the third lid can scarcely be detected when the pigeons are in perfect health.

(f) The upper and lower eyelids are part of the eye's anatomy. A third eyelid, which is a clear membrane, helps keep the eye free from foreign objects. The blinking of this third eyelid is hardly noticeable when the pigeons are in excellent health.

(3) Size and temperament. Medium-sized pigeons are most desirable and birds should be mated to attain this uniform size. Birds being mated64 to breed stock for pigeon communication should be calm and easy going, not high-strung. Nervous or excitable birds should never be mated.

(3) Size and temperament. Medium-sized pigeons are the most desirable, and birds should be paired to achieve this consistent size. Birds that are being paired for breeding stock for pigeon communication should be calm and easygoing, not high-strung. Nervous or excitable birds should never be paired.

40. Line Breeding

The aim of breeding from pigeons of the same or closely related parentage is to reproduce the qualities of the old birds in their young, amplifying the good qualities and minimizing the bad. Line breeding requires the services of an experienced pigeoneer. Only champions which are physically perfect should be mated. Except for line breeding, inbreeding should not be practiced.

The goal of breeding pigeons that have the same or closely related ancestry is to pass on the traits of the older birds to their offspring, enhancing the positive traits and reducing the negative ones. Line breeding needs the expertise of a skilled pigeoneer. Only champions that are physically flawless should be paired. Aside from line breeding, inbreeding shouldn't be done.

41. Nests

a. Bowl PG-75 is an expendable item made of pressed wood pulp and is used as a nesting place for pigeons. It is advisable to replace the bowls occasionally to avoid vermin. Cocks display a keen desire to use the same nest compartment each time they are mated or, if moved to a different loft, the nest compartment in the same relative position as the one occupied previously. If not permitted to do this, the cock will fight the occupant of the compartment. Therefore, consult previous breeding records carefully in assigning nest compartments. Hens do not show this trait, but accept a change in compartments and follow their mates.

a. Bowl PG-75 is a throwaway item made from compressed wood pulp and is used as a nesting spot for pigeons. It's a good idea to replace the bowls regularly to prevent pests. Male pigeons really want to use the same nesting space every time they mate or, if they're moved to a different loft, the nesting space that's in the same position as the one they used before. If they can’t do this, the male will fight the bird currently occupying that space. So, make sure to check past breeding records carefully when assigning nesting spots. Female pigeons don’t have this tendency; they adapt to changes in spaces and follow their mates.

b. Keep a supply of tobacco stems for nest material in a rack on the floor of the loft. Allow the pigeons to arrange this material to suit their fancy. Put a handful of sawdust or wood shavings in the nest bowl to prevent breaking of eggs.

b. Keep some tobacco stems handy for nest material in a rack on the floor of the loft. Let the pigeons arrange this material however they like. Place a handful of sawdust or wood shavings in the nest bowl to protect the eggs from breaking.

42. Control of Breeding

The method of control given below is simple, natural, and successful; it requires minimum handling of the birds.

The control method described below is straightforward, natural, and effective; it requires minimal handling of the birds.

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Figure 39. Parent pigeons in nest with youngsters in Bowl PG-75.

Figure 39. Parent pigeons in the nest with their chicks in Bowl PG-75.

a. Time. Since best youngsters are obtained when birds are mated during February, March, and April, whenever possible, arrange all breeding for the year during these months. Eggs which should not be hatched should be replaced with EGG PG-50 (glass).

a. Time. Since the best young birds are produced when they are mated in February, March, and April, try to schedule all breeding for the year during these months whenever you can. Eggs that shouldn't be hatched should be replaced with EGG PG-50 (glass).

b. Mating. To begin breeding, place each pair to be mated in its nest, and confine for approximately 1 day. Open one of the nests and allow the pair to leave and return at will. The pair may be considered mated after it returns to the nest several times. Close the nest compartment and proceed in the same manner with the next pair, and so on until each pair is mated.

b. Dating. To start breeding, put each pair that needs to mate in their nest and keep them there for about 1 day. Open one of the nests and let the pair come and go as they please. The pair can be considered mated once they return to the nest several times. Close the nest compartment and repeat the process with the next pair, and continue until every pair is mated.

c. After mating. To minimize the danger of birds entering the wrong nest and fighting, open only alternate nest compartments for the first few days after mating.

c. After breeding. To reduce the risk of birds getting into the wrong nest and fighting, only open every other nest compartment for the first few days after mating.

d. Following season. Any pair producing outstanding youngsters should be mated the same way each year. Mated pairs producing unsatisfactory youngsters should be separated and each pigeon remated. Destroy breeder pigeons which produce unsatisfactory youngsters subsequently.

d. Next season. Any pair that produces excellent offspring should be paired together the same way every year. Pairs that produce poor-quality offspring should be separated, and each pigeon should be re-mated. Remove breeder pigeons that continue to produce poor-quality young.

43. Laying

The first egg is usually laid during late afternoon from 7 to 10 days after nesting has been started. The second egg is laid approximately 44 hours later. As a rule, parent birds do not hover the first egg until the second egg has been laid. This usually enables the youngsters to hatch within 1 hour of each other, and gives each one an equal chance. The youngster from the first egg will be much larger than the other if the parent birds start to hover at the time the first egg is laid. Fertility is indicated if the egg becomes a light bluish color after 10 days, or if it shows blood lines after 5 days when held up to the sun’s rays. Do not destroy the first pair of eggs as it is generally believed that they often produce the best youngsters of that year.

The first egg is usually laid in the late afternoon, about 7 to 10 days after nesting begins. The second egg is laid around 44 hours later. Generally, parent birds don’t sit on the first egg until the second one is laid. This usually allows the chicks to hatch within an hour of each other, giving each one an equal opportunity. The chick from the first egg will be much larger than the second if the parents start sitting on the eggs when the first one is laid. Fertility is indicated if the egg turns a light bluish color after 10 days or if it shows bloodlines after 5 days when held up to the sunlight. Don’t destroy the first pair of eggs, as it's widely believed that they often produce the best chicks of the year.

44. Hatching and Feeding

a. The incubation period is from 17 to 18 days long. The hen pigeon usually sits from 1600 of one day to 1000 the following morning; the male pigeon sits the remainder of that day.

a. The incubation period lasts between 17 to 18 days. The female pigeon typically sits on the eggs from 4:00 PM one day until 10:00 AM the next morning; the male pigeon takes over for the rest of that day.

b. The young pigeons are fed by both parents. Their first feed is a thick, creamy-white excretion produced in the crop of both female and male (pigeon milk or pap). Pigeons are the only birds both sexes of which produce milk for their young. The young pigeon places it’s bill down the throat of either parent, and the parent in return forces the food into the young one’s throat. This method of feeding is known as “regurgitation.”

b. The young pigeons are fed by both parents. Their first meal is a thick, creamy-white substance produced in the crop of both the female and male (pigeon milk or pap). Pigeons are the only birds where both sexes produce milk for their young. The young pigeon puts its beak down the throat of either parent, and the parent then regurgitates the food into the young one’s throat. This method of feeding is called “regurgitation.”

45. Identification

The identification record of the pigeon is started when the hen lays the egg. Until the time that the youngster leaves the nest compartment, this record is kept on a breeding card (par. 27). For identification purposes, each pigeon is banded when approximately 8 days of age (par. 28).

The identification record of the pigeon begins when the hen lays the egg. This record is maintained on a breeding card (par. 27) until the young bird leaves the nest compartment. For identification purposes, each pigeon is banded when it is about 8 days old (par. 28).

46. Culling

It is necessary to cull (destroy) severely to keep the stock in a loft up to standard. Cull birds which do not meet physical requirements for breeding66 unless all birds are needed. In addition, destroy those which show a definite lack of intelligence, or which do not perform up to the average. About 30 percent of the young bred in any one season are normally under the physical standard and should be culled to keep the stock from degenerating. In addition to losses sustained through culling, 20 to 30 percent of the remaining stock may be expected to be lost during training flights, as result of disease and injury, or through additional culling because of substandard performance.

It’s important to cull (destroy) heavily to keep the stock in a loft meeting standards. Cull birds that don’t meet the physical requirements for breeding66 unless all birds are necessary. Also, get rid of those that clearly lack intelligence or don’t perform at average levels. About 30 percent of the young bred in any season typically fall below the physical standard and should be culled to prevent the stock from degenerating. Besides the losses from culling, expect to lose 20 to 30 percent of the remaining stock during training flights due to disease and injury, or through additional culling for substandard performance.


SECTION VII

DISEASES AND MEDICINES

47. General

Certain diseases attack pigeons. Normal preventive methods usually protect pigeons from disease. If, however, these diseases are not detected immediately, they are likely to sweep through the loft, destroying or ruining most of the birds. It is necessary, therefore, that the pigeoneer be able to detect, correctly diagnose, and treat the more common pigeon diseases, in addition to taking preventive measures.

Certain diseases can affect pigeons. Standard preventive measures usually keep pigeons safe from illness. However, if these diseases aren't caught right away, they can quickly spread through the loft, harming or killing most of the birds. Therefore, it's essential for the pigeoneer to identify, accurately diagnose, and treat the more common pigeon diseases, along with implementing preventive strategies.

48. Prevention of Disease

Disease prevention is much simpler and cheaper than control or cure. Medicines are only emergency measures used in an attempt to overcome disease.

Disease prevention is a lot easier and cheaper than treating or curing illnesses. Medications are just emergency solutions used to try to manage diseases.

a. Sanitation. This is the most important way of preventing disease and its value should never be underestimated. The following rules for sanitation in the care of pigeons must be strictly adhered to:

a. Sanitation. This is the most crucial method for preventing disease, and its importance should never be overlooked. The following sanitation rules for caring for pigeons must be followed closely:

(1) Keep loft clean and dry.

(1) Keep the loft clean and dry.

(2) Keep drinking fountain clean and water free from pollution.

(2) Keep the drinking fountain clean and ensure the water is free from contamination.

(3) Quarantine new stock until certain that all birds are free from disease.

(3) Isolate new stock until you're sure that all the birds are free of disease.

(4) Never permit stray pigeons, wild birds, or rodents (mice, rats, etc.) to enter the loft.

(4) Never allow stray pigeons, wild birds, or rodents (like mice, rats, etc.) to get into the loft.

(5) Never feed pigeons on a dirty floor, because most of the more serious diseases are transmitted through the droppings.

(5) Never feed pigeons on a dirty floor, because most of the more serious diseases are spread through their droppings.

(6) Bury or burn diseased birds that have been destroyed.

(6) Bury or burn any sick birds that have been killed.

(7) Immediately isolate birds showing any signs of sickness.

(7) Immediately separate any birds that show signs of illness.

(8) After touching diseased birds disinfect the hands before handling other birds.

(8) After touching sick birds, disinfect your hands before handling other birds.

(9) Thoroughly clean and disinfect lofts contaminated by disease.

(9) Completely clean and disinfect lofts that have been contaminated by disease.

b. Loft condition. Pigeons must never be crowded in the loft. It is best to subdivide large lofts into smaller compartments for better control and ease of observation. Sunlight and dryness are two great natural disinfectants which should be utilized fully through plenty of window space and adequate ventilation. Eliminate strong direct drafts because they chill birds and lower their resistance to disease.

b. Loft status. Pigeons should never be overcrowded in the loft. It's better to divide large lofts into smaller sections for better management and easier observation. Sunlight and dryness are two effective natural disinfectants that should be maximized through ample window space and proper ventilation. Avoid strong direct drafts, as they can chill the birds and reduce their resistance to disease.

49. Control of Disease

a. Pigeons showing any signs of sickness must be segregated immediately. In combat lofts there is normally no place available to isolate and treat diseased birds, therefore, it is usually advisable to destroy them and burn or bury their remains to avoid contaminating the rest of the flock.

a. Pigeons that show any signs of illness must be separated right away. In racing lofts, there's usually no space to isolate and treat sick birds, so it's generally best to cull them and either burn or bury their bodies to prevent contaminating the rest of the flock.

b. In any case of disease, the loft should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected to destroy the germs of the disease as well as the mites and lice which may be carriers. Cresol, saponated solution, is an efficient disinfectant68 when used in a 4-percent solution in warm or hot water. This disinfectant is issued to signal pigeon companies.

b. In any case of illness, the loft should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected to eliminate disease germs as well as mites and lice that may be carriers. Cresol, a saponated solution, is an effective disinfectant68 when used in a 4-percent solution in warm or hot water. This disinfectant is provided to signal pigeon companies.

50. Anatomy and Physiology

A knowledge of the structure and function of the bird’s body helps a pigeoneer understand his birds and certain of their diseases. For convenience, the various organs are divided into groups or systems according to their functions.

A basic understanding of how a bird's body is structured and how it works helps a pigeon keeper understand their birds and some of the diseases they may have. For ease of reference, the different organs are categorized into groups or systems based on their functions.

a. Respiratory system. (1) Mouth and nostrils admit air.

a. Respiratory system. (1) Mouth and nostrils take in air.

(2) Glottis or larynx is the opening into the trachea.

(2) The glottis or larynx is the opening to the trachea.

(3) Trachea conducts air to and from the lungs.

(3) The trachea carries air to and from the lungs.

(4) Lungs are organs of gaseous interchange. Air spaces are surrounded by a network of capillaries. Here the blood gives off carbon dioxide and takes on oxygen.

(4) Lungs are organs that exchange gases. Air spaces are surrounded by a network of tiny blood vessels. Here, blood releases carbon dioxide and absorbs oxygen.

(5) Nine air sacs cool the pigeon, give it buoyance, and mechanically aid the pigeon to breathe.

(5) Nine air sacs help cool the pigeon, provide buoyancy, and assist the pigeon in breathing.

b. Digestive system. (1) Mouth is the opening through which food is received.

b. Digestive tract. (1) The mouth is the entry point for food.

(2) Esophagus conducts food to the crop.

(2) The esophagus carries food to the crop.

(3) Crop, or ingluvius, stores and softens the food.

(3) The crop, or ingluvius, stores and softens the food.

(4) True stomach, or proventriculus, furnishes gastric digestive juices that digest proteins and carbohydrates.

(4) The true stomach, or proventriculus, provides gastric digestive juices that break down proteins and carbohydrates.

(5) Gizzard is the grinding and mixing organ.

(5) The gizzard is the organ that grinds and mixes food.

(6) Pancreas furnishes digestive juices that digest fats, proteins, and carbohydrates, besides furnishing certain internal secretions.

(6) The pancreas produces digestive juices that break down fats, proteins, and carbohydrates, and it also provides certain internal secretions.

(7) Liver produces bile which helps digest food.

(7) The liver produces bile, which helps digest food.

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Figure 40. Loft cleaning equipment.

Figure 40. Attic cleaning tools.

(8) Intestines provide space for food while it is being digested and absorbed by the blood stream. The intestines also furnish some digestive juices.

(8) The intestines create space for food while it's being digested and absorbed into the bloodstream. They also produce some digestive juices.

c. Circulatory system. The circulatory system consists of the heart, arteries, veins, and capillaries. Its function is to convey nourishing blood from the heart to all parts of the body and to dispose of the waste material produced by the working tissues. The heart consists of four chambers: two ventricles and two auricles. The right auricle receives the stale blood from the veins and pumps it into the right ventricle which pumps it through an artery to the lungs. Here waste matter, such as carbon dioxide, is eliminated from the blood and fresh oxygen is restored. The blood then returns to the heart through a vein entering the left auricle. Proceeding from the left auricle to the left ventricle, it is pumped out through the arteries to the capillaries, which are the smallest vessels of the body. The capillaries circulate the blood through every tissue of the body, dispensing oxygen and food. The blood then picks up waste material on its return to the heart through the veins. The circulation of blood in the pigeon is very rapid, and with the heart beating 200 to 300 times a minute, only a few minutes are required to complete the circuit.

c. Cardiovascular system. The circulatory system includes the heart, arteries, veins, and capillaries. Its job is to transport nourishing blood from the heart to every part of the body and to eliminate waste produced by the active tissues. The heart has four chambers: two ventricles and two atria. The right atrium receives deoxygenated blood from the veins and pumps it into the right ventricle, which sends it through an artery to the lungs. Here, waste like carbon dioxide is removed from the blood, and it absorbs fresh oxygen. The blood then returns to the heart via a vein that enters the left atrium. Moving from the left atrium to the left ventricle, it is pumped out through the arteries to the capillaries, the smallest vessels in the body. The capillaries distribute the blood throughout every tissue, delivering oxygen and nutrients. After this, the blood collects waste on its way back to the heart through the veins. The blood circulation in pigeons is very fast, and with the heart beating 200 to 300 times per minute, it only takes a few minutes to complete the circuit.

d. Reproductive system. (1) Male birds have two testes (testicles).

d. Reproductive system. (1) Male birds have two testes.

(2) Female birds have one (left) ovary and one oviduct, or egg tube, through which the yolks pass to get the albumin, shell membrane, and shell.

(2) Female birds have one (left) ovary and one oviduct, or egg tube, through which the yolks pass to receive the albumin, shell membrane, and shell.

e. Urinary system. The kidneys take impurities out of the blood, and pass them into the cloaca (combination bladder and rectum).

e. Urinary tract. The kidneys filter impurities from the blood and transfer them into the cloaca (a combination of the bladder and rectum).

51. Indications of Sickness

a. The common indications of sickness are—

a. The usual signs of being unwell are—

(1) Refusing to eat.

Not eating.

(2) Dull, watery eyes.

Flat, lifeless eyes.

(3) Droopy appearance with ruffled feathers and no desire to move.

(3) Sluggish look with messy feathers and no interest in moving.

(4) Green, watery droppings. If such droppings are noted in the loft all birds should be watched until the sick one is detected.

(4) Green, watery droppings. If you see these droppings in the loft, all the birds should be monitored until the sick one is identified.

b. The easiest and best way to detect sick pigeons is to observe the birds at feeding time. The pigeoneer should also examine all birds as they are being basketed for training tosses.

b. The easiest and best way to spot sick pigeons is to watch the birds during feeding time. The pigeon keeper should also check all the birds as they are being put into baskets for training flights.

52. Diseases

Pigeons are subject to numerous infectious and contagious diseases. These diseases are caused by germs such as bacteria and viruses, and are transmitted in poor feed, dirty water, unclean lofts, and similar conditions showing mismanagement. Infectious diseases are contagious if the birds themselves transmit germs to one another.

Pigeons can get a lot of infectious and contagious diseases. These diseases come from germs like bacteria and viruses, and they spread through bad food, dirty water, unclean living spaces, and other signs of poor care. Infectious diseases are contagious when the birds pass germs to each other.

a. Pigeon pox is a common infectious, contagious disease which usually affects unfeathered portions of the pigeon’s head and feet. Pox often develop on the mucous membrane, lining of the mouth and throat. In an outbreak, both types are usually seen. The pox appear as swellings covered with light yellow material and are sometimes called wet pock, diphtheria, or canker.

a. Pigeon pox is a common infectious, contagious disease that typically affects the bare parts of a pigeon’s head and feet. Pox often develop on the mucous membranes lining the mouth and throat. During an outbreak, both types usually appear. The pox show up as swellings covered with light yellow material and are sometimes referred to as wet pock, diphtheria, or canker.

(1) Symptoms. The course of the disease runs about 4 weeks.

(1) Symptoms. The disease lasts about 4 weeks.

(a) The virus gets into the skin or mucous membrane and causes a wartlike swelling, called a pock, at the point of infection. The virus grows and causes the pock to enlarge for about 10 days.

(a) The virus enters the skin or mucous membrane and creates a wart-like bump, known as a pock, at the site of infection. The virus multiplies and causes the pock to grow for about 10 days.

(b) During the next 10 days the tissues begin to die and turn yellow.70 Sometimes a blister forms in the pock, but only a slight enlargement occurs during this period. During the last 10 days the affected tissues begin to dry and form scabs which soon heal and drop off.

(b) Over the next 10 days, the tissues start to die and turn yellow.70 Occasionally, a blister forms in the pock, but there’s only a slight increase in size during this time. In the final 10 days, the affected tissues dry out and develop scabs, which eventually heal and fall off.

(c) Pock in the mouth and throat follows the same course as in (b) above except they are covered with a light yellow layer of tissues. Instead of becoming a dry scab formation, the pock becomes a yellow cheesy formation.

(c) Pock lesions in the mouth and throat progress similarly to those in (b) above, but they’re covered with a light yellow layer of tissue. Instead of forming a dry scab, the pock develops into a yellow, cheesy mass.

(2) Treatment. Usually this is of little value, as pox will run its course of about 4 weeks, regardless of treatment.

(2) Treatment. Generally, this is not very effective, as the pox will take about 4 weeks to run its course, no matter what treatment is given.

(a) One percent yellow oxide of mercury ointment will help soothe affected eyes.

(a) A one percent yellow oxide of mercury ointment will help soothe irritated eyes.

(b) Pock in the mouth may be cut away, and the area painted with tincture of iodine or carefully cauterized with silver nitrate to stop bleeding.

(b) Mouth sores can be removed, and the area treated with iodine or carefully cauterized with silver nitrate to stop bleeding.

(c) Birds that refuse to eat may be fed by force until the disease runs its course.

(c) Birds that won't eat can be force-fed until the illness passes.

(d) Vaccination has no curative value on affected birds.

(d) Vaccination does not cure affected birds.

(e) Thoroughly clean and disinfect loft after an outbreak of this disease.

(e) Completely clean and disinfect the loft after an outbreak of this disease.

(3) Prevention. This is simple if all susceptible birds are vaccinated. Vaccination against pox is one of the most successful known because all birds receiving it are made permanently immune. Birds may be vaccinated at 5 or 6 weeks of age.

(3) Prevention. This is straightforward if all at-risk birds are vaccinated. Vaccination against pox is one of the most effective methods known because all vaccinated birds become permanently immune. Birds can be vaccinated at 5 or 6 weeks old.

(a) Pluck five or six feathers from the breast region of the bird and brush the vaccine into the follicles.

(a) Take five or six feathers from the bird's chest area and apply the vaccine into the follicles.

(b) In about 10 days the follicles swell and a pock develops. This runs a course of about 4 weeks and heals.

(b) In about 10 days, the follicles swell and a bump appears. This goes through a process that lasts around 4 weeks and then heals.

(c) All susceptible birds in a loft should be vaccinated at the same time and each should be examined for “takes” after vaccinations.

(c) All vulnerable birds in a loft should be vaccinated at the same time, and each should be checked for “takes” after the vaccinations.

b. Paratyphoid is a common infectious disease of pigeons and is probably the most devastating of bacterial infectious diseases at the present time. It may affect the bird in many ways, and produce such a variety of symptoms that it is often mistaken for numerous other diseases. The only definite way of diagnosing paratyphoid is by laboratory tests. A tentative diagnosis can be made, however, upon observing typical symptoms.

b. Paratyphoid fever is a common infectious disease in pigeons and is likely the most serious bacterial infection affecting them today. It can impact the birds in various ways and cause such a wide range of symptoms that it is often confused with many other diseases. The only reliable way to diagnose paratyphoid is through laboratory tests. However, a preliminary diagnosis can be made by observing characteristic symptoms.

(1) Symptoms. The course of the disease varies from a rapidly fatal blood poisoning to a slow, chronic disease with, or without, complete recovery. The infection may take place through the egg, by way of milk fed to youngsters, or by contaminated feed, water, and grit. The manner of infection has no bearing on the course of the disease. The germs may get into the blood-stream, go all through the body, and cause sudden death; or the infection may be less severe and localize in any one of the numerous organs.

(1) Symptoms. The progression of the disease can range from a quickly lethal blood infection to a slow, chronic condition that may or may not lead to complete recovery. Infection can occur through the egg, from milk given to young animals, or via contaminated feed, water, and grit. The way the infection happens doesn’t affect the disease’s progression. The germs can enter the bloodstream, spread throughout the body, and cause sudden death, or the infection might be milder and affect just one of the many organs.

(a) Bacteria may localize in the intestines and produce mild to very severe inflammation. This usually results in diarrhea.

(a) Bacteria can accumulate in the intestines and cause mild to very severe inflammation. This typically leads to diarrhea.

(b) Localizations in the lungs are very common and appear as hard, dried abscesses. These are seldom so serious as to cause respiratory distress.

(b) Localized areas in the lungs are quite common and show up as hard, dried abscesses. These rarely become serious enough to cause breathing problems.

(c) Joint boils result from direct localization of the germs in the joints of the legs or wings. Naturally this produces lameness.

(c) Joint boils occur when germs directly invade the joints in the legs or wings. This obviously leads to lameness.

(d) Inflammatory reactions of the spleen and liver are often the result of the localization of the germ in these organs. Chronic inflammation of the entire liver is also observed. The abdomen of such birds usually fills with fluid and the bird then gets thin and dies.

(d) Inflammatory reactions in the spleen and liver often happen because germs settle in these organs. Chronic inflammation can also affect the whole liver. The abdomen of these birds usually fills with fluid, and then the bird loses weight and dies.

(e) Paratyphoid germs quite often localize in the brain and cause abscess formation. Such abscesses cause a variety of symptoms, depending on which part of the brain is involved. Usually the bird shows loss of equilibrium. It may twist its head and neck about, show trembling of the head and neck, or other nervous symptoms. Such birds rarely recover.

(e) Paratyphoid germs frequently settle in the brain and lead to abscesses. These abscesses result in different symptoms, depending on the area of the brain affected. Generally, the bird exhibits a loss of balance. It might twist its head and neck, show trembling in those areas, or display other nervous signs. Birds with these symptoms seldom recover.

(f) Occasionally the germ will localize in the eye. The inside of the eye turns white and sight is lost. Only rarely are both eyes involved. Such birds appear to be very ill and usually die in a short period of time.

(f) Sometimes the germ will settle in the eye. The inside of the eye turns white and vision is lost. It's quite rare for both eyes to be affected. These birds seem very sick and typically die shortly after.

(g) Germs may localize in the ovary of the female or testes of the male. Such birds may show no symptoms, or they may become sterile. Eggs laid by such birds may be infertile. Youngsters, if hatched, may be weak and die soon after. Germs may localize in the oviduct and cause an impacted oviduct.

(g) Germs can settle in the ovary of female birds or the testes of males. These birds might not show any symptoms, or they could become sterile. Eggs laid by these birds may not be fertile. If they do hatch, the young may be weak and die soon after. Germs can also collect in the oviduct and cause blockages.

(h) The only definite way of diagnosing paratyphoid is by laboratory tests. A tentative diagnosis can be made, however, upon observing the typical symptoms.

(h) The only certain way to diagnose paratyphoid is through lab tests. However, a preliminary diagnosis can be made by observing the typical symptoms.

(2) Treatment. Treatment is useless for visibly affected birds. Neither drugs nor vaccines seem to be of any value in treating this condition. Many birds recover from mild infections without treatment. Therefore, the best possible care should be provided for the birds in order to keep their resistance high so that they can successfully combat the infection and overcome disease.

(2) Treatment. Treatment is ineffective for birds that show visible signs of illness. Neither medications nor vaccines appear to be helpful in addressing this condition. Many birds bounce back from mild infections without any treatment. Therefore, it's important to provide the best care possible for the birds to maintain their strength so they can effectively fight off the infection and recover from the disease.

(3) Prevention. Since contamination of feed, water, and grit by droppings is probably the greatest cause of paratyphoid, sanitation is the best preventive.

(3) Prevention. Since contamination of feed, water, and grit by droppings is likely the biggest cause of paratyphoid, sanitation is the most effective prevention.

(a) Clean the loft scrupulously.

Clean the loft thoroughly.

(b) Maintain sanitary drinking fountains with fresh water to avoid spreading infection by way of water. Take special care to prevent dampness from spillage or leakage around the drinking fountain, as this makes an ideal place for bacteria to accumulate.

(b) Keep drinking fountains clean and filled with fresh water to prevent the spread of germs through water. Be especially careful to avoid dampness from spills or leaks around the drinking fountain, as this creates a perfect environment for bacteria to grow.

(c) Feces from birds with diarrhea should be removed from the loft as soon as noticed.

(c) Bird droppings from birds with diarrhea should be cleaned out of the loft as soon as they are noticed.

(d) Frequent disinfection of the loft with a strong disinfectant like 4 percent saponified cresol will help keep down contamination.

(d) Regularly disinfecting the loft with a powerful disinfectant, such as 4 percent saponified cresol, will help reduce contamination.

c. Trichomoniasis. This is a very common disease of pigeons commonly seen in the mouth, esophagus, or crop in the form of cheesy yellow or white lesions. For this reason it is often called “canker” by pigeon fanciers. The cause is a motile one-celled organism. Only the common type of this organism will be considered here. This disease has many carriers. It shows up only where sanitary conditions are bad or other diseases are present.

c. Trichomoniasis. This is a very common disease in pigeons, often seen in the mouth, esophagus, or crop as cheesy yellow or white lesions. Because of this, pigeon enthusiasts frequently refer to it as “canker.” The cause is a motile single-celled organism. Here, we will only focus on the common type of this organism. This disease has many carriers and tends to occur mainly in unsanitary conditions or when other diseases are present.

(1) Symptoms. The course of the disease varies according to resistance of the affected bird, treatment, and care. Young birds in the nest become infected through “milk” of infected parents. Infection doubtless spreads by contact while “billing” and fighting. Germs cause affected tissues to die. This results in the formation of a sore or opening down into the tissue with a varying-sized yellow, cheesy exudate or scab forming over it. Sometimes such scabs become very large and nearly fill the mouth, throat, or crop.

(1) Symptoms. The progression of the disease differs based on the bird's resistance, treatment, and care. Nestling birds get infected through the “milk” from their infected parents. The infection likely spreads through contact during “billing” and fighting. Bacteria cause the affected tissues to die, leading to sores or openings in the tissue, accompanied by a range of yellow, cheesy discharge or scabs forming over them. Sometimes these scabs can grow quite large and almost completely block the mouth, throat, or crop.

(2) Treatment. Various drugs and chemicals have been used to treat trichomoniasis. However, this condition has proved quite unresponsive to usual medication. In fact, drugs do not have much, if any, direct effect on the healing of tissue. All that medicine can do is to cut down the number72 of parasites present and permit nature to repair the damage done to the tissue. Suggested procedures for treatment follow:

(2) Treatment. Different drugs and chemicals have been used to treat trichomoniasis. However, this condition has shown to be quite resistant to standard medication. In fact, drugs have little, if any, direct effect on healing the tissue. All that medicine can do is reduce the number72 of parasites present and allow nature to mend the damage done to the tissue. Suggested treatment procedures are as follows:

(a) Remove all yellow pus patches with cotton swabs. Then paint area with a mixture of iodized oil and sulfanilamide powder. The iodized oil is prepared by using 1 gram iodine, 1.5 grams potassium iodide, and 2 ounces light petrolatum. The iodine requires some time and frequent shaking to dissolve. Make a small cotton swab on an applicator stick, dip it into the oil, roll it in the sulfanilamide powder, and then apply to cleaned trichomoniasis (canker) lesion. Daily treatment, rest, and an abundance of good feed are necessary.

(a) Remove all yellow pus patches using cotton swabs. Then apply a mixture of iodized oil and sulfanilamide powder to the area. The iodized oil is made by combining 1 gram of iodine, 1.5 grams of potassium iodide, and 2 ounces of light petrolatum. It takes some time and requires frequent shaking for the iodine to dissolve. Create a small cotton swab on an applicator stick, dip it into the oil, roll it in the sulfanilamide powder, and then apply it to the cleaned trichomoniasis (canker) lesion. Daily treatment, rest, and plenty of good feed are essential.

(b) Clean off exudate by local applications of tincture of iodine, or a mixture of one part iodine to three parts glycerine; at the same time lesions will respond to such treatment. Silver nitrate may be used either in stick form or in solution.

(b) Clean off any discharge using local applications of tincture of iodine or a mixture of one part iodine to three parts glycerin; at the same time, lesions will respond to this treatment. Silver nitrate can be used in either stick form or as a solution.

(3) Prevention. Sanitation is the best preventive.

(3) Prevention. Cleanliness is the best prevention.

(a) Correct predisposing causes such as wet floors, nests, and perches.

(a) Fix potential hazards like wet floors, nests, and perches.

(b) Try to isolate infected birds, provided the number is not too large.

(b) Try to separate infected birds, as long as the number isn't too high.

(c) Attempt to control spread of parasitic infestation by using a parasiticide like copper sulphate in the drinking water. This is used in a 1-2000 solution.

(c) Try to manage the spread of parasitic infestation by using a parasiticide like copper sulfate in the drinking water. This is used in a 1-2000 solution.

d. Tuberculosis. This is an infectious and highly contagious disease caused by a highly-resistant germ which can live in soil for 2 years.

d. TB. This is an infectious and very contagious disease caused by a highly resistant germ that can survive in soil for 2 years.

(1) Symptoms. The young die suddenly and old birds waste away. Grayish white nodules appear in liver and spleen, basket ulcers in intestines, and yellow nodules in all parts of the body.

(1) Symptoms. Young birds die unexpectedly, while older ones deteriorate slowly. Grayish-white lumps show up in the liver and spleen, ulcers form in the intestines, and yellow nodules appear throughout the body.

(2) Treatment. There is no treatment for tuberculosis. Destroy all affected birds and thoroughly clean and disinfect loft.

(2) Treatment. There is no treatment for tuberculosis. Eliminate all affected birds and clean and disinfect the loft thoroughly.

(3) Prevention. Keep all stray pigeons out of loft and maintain sanitary conditions at all times.

(3) Prevention. Keep all stray pigeons out of the loft and ensure sanitary conditions are maintained at all times.

e. One-eye cold (CONJUNCTIVITUS). (1) Symptoms. There is a watery discharge from the eye, and the surrounding membranes are frequently swollen.

e. One-eyed cold (Pink eye). (1) Symptoms. There is a watery discharge from the eye, and the surrounding membranes are often swollen.

(2) Treatment. Place bird in a warm room and treat eye daily with one drop of metaphin, or one drop of 15 percent argyrol.

(2) Treatment. Put the bird in a warm room and treat its eye every day with one drop of metaphin or one drop of 15 percent argyrol.

(3) Prevention. Provide proper ventilation in the loft. Avoid dampness and drafts.

(3) Prevention. Ensure there's good ventilation in the attic. Keep it dry and free from drafts.

f. Going light. This is not a disease in itself but a symptom or result of a disease. Any pigeon showing loss of flesh should be isolated and observed until the affecting disease is determined.

f. Going easy. This isn't an illness on its own, but rather a sign or consequence of an illness. Any pigeon that shows weight loss should be separated and monitored until the underlying disease is identified.

g. Diarrhea. This is not usually a distinct disease, but the result of some other disease.

g. Diarrhea. This is not typically a separate illness, but rather a symptom of another underlying condition.

(1) Symptoms. Droppings are green and watery.

Symptoms. Droppings are green and runny.

(2) Treatment. Sick birds should be isolated and observed to determine if they have some other disease. Feeding of rice will usually check the condition if it is caused by feed or drinking water.

(2) Treatment. Sick birds should be kept separate and monitored to see if they have another illness. Giving them rice will usually help improve their condition if the issue is due to the food or drinking water.

(3) Prevention. Sanitary loft conditions, proper diet, and fresh drinking water will help prevent it.

(3) Prevention. Clean living conditions, a healthy diet, and fresh drinking water will help prevent it.

h. Sour crop. Sour crop is caused by damp or mouldy grain, impure water or lack of grit.

h. Sour crop. Sour crop happens due to wet or moldy grain, contaminated water, or insufficient grit.

(1) Symptoms. The pigeon will sit with feathers ruffled. A greenish diarrhea usually accompanies sour crop. On examination the crop is found to be hard and distended.

(1) Symptoms. The pigeon will sit with its feathers puffed up. A greenish diarrhea typically comes with a sour crop. Upon examination, the crop appears hard and swollen.

(2) Treatment. Hold the bird with head down and gently press on the crop until all feed has been removed. Flush out the crop with a solution73 of 4 teaspoons of bicarbonate of soda to a quart of warm water. Feed a light mixture, consisting mostly of rice, millet, kaffir corn, and other small seeds. Repeat the cleaning and flushing of the crop daily, if necessary, until this condition clears.

(2) Treatment. Hold the bird upside down and gently press on the crop until all the food has been removed. Rinse out the crop with a solution73 of 4 teaspoons of baking soda in a quart of warm water. Feed a light mixture, mostly made of rice, millet, kaffir corn, and other small seeds. Repeat the cleaning and rinsing of the crop daily, if needed, until this issue resolves.

(3) Prevention. Sanitary loft conditions, proper diet, and fresh drinking water will help prevent it.

(3) Prevention. Clean living conditions, a proper diet, and fresh drinking water will help prevent it.

53. External Parasites

Many insects and related species live off other animals. Some of these parasites, like lice, live on the host but feed only upon bits of its feathers and tiny scales and excretions of the skin. Others are more vicious and suck blood from the animal. Diseases are often spread from bird to bird through the life habits of these parasites.

Many insects and similar species rely on other animals for survival. Some of these parasites, like lice, reside on the host, feeding only on small pieces of its feathers, tiny scales, and skin secretions. Others are more aggressive, feeding on the animal's blood. Diseases are frequently transmitted from bird to bird through the behaviors of these parasites.

a. Lice. Lice are undoubtedly the most common of these external parasites.

a. Lice. Lice are definitely the most common of these external parasites.

(1) Different species. There are at least six different species of lice that attack pigeons in this country. The three most common are—

(1) Different species. There are at least six different species of lice that attack pigeons in this country. The three most common are—

(a) Feather louse. This is the long, slender species that lives on the barbs and shaft of the feather over nearly any part of the bird’s body.

(a) Feather louse. This is the long, thin type that lives on the barbs and shaft of the feather across almost any part of the bird’s body.

(b) Golden feather louse. This louse is a little shorter and much broader and lives on the feathers, particularly on the bird’s body.

(b) Golden feather louse. This louse is a bit shorter and much broader and lives on the feathers, especially on the bird’s body.

(c) Body louse. This is the largest of the pigeon lice. It lives on the skin rather than on the feathers. It is thought that these lice, by biting the very young pin feathers when they are filled with blood, cause the small pinhole perforations often seen in pigeon feathers.

(c) Body louse. This is the biggest type of pigeon lice. It lives on the skin instead of the feathers. It's believed that these lice, by biting the young pin feathers when they're filled with blood, cause the tiny pinhole perforations often seen in pigeon feathers.

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Figure 41. Life cycle of pigeon lice.

Figure 41. Life cycle of pigeon lice.

(2) Habits (fig. 41). In order to combat lice properly and intelligently, it is necessary to know something about where and how they feed, live, and breed.

(2) Habits (fig. 41). To effectively and intelligently deal with lice, it's important to understand where and how they feed, live, and reproduce.

(a) Adult lice live on the skin and feathers of the bird and only rarely leave the pigeon. When accidentally dislodged, they crawl very short distances to other birds. Lice cannot live longer than a few days away from the birds.

(a) Adult lice live on the skin and feathers of the bird and only rarely leave the pigeon. When accidentally knocked off, they crawl very short distances to other birds. Lice can't survive more than a few days away from the birds.

(b) Lice eat bits of feathers, scales, and other debris off the skin. They do not suck blood.

(b) Lice feed on small pieces of feathers, scales, and other debris on the skin. They don't suck blood.

(c) Female lice lay eggs (nits) along the shafts of the feathers, particularly on the primary coverts.

(c) Female lice lay eggs (nits) along the shafts of the feathers, especially on the primary coverts.

(d) Louse eggs hatch in 10 to 14 days.

(d) Lice eggs hatch in 10 to 14 days.

(e) Young lice eat, molt (3 to 5 times), and grow to maturity in about 14 days.

(e) Young lice feed, shed their skins (3 to 5 times), and reach adulthood in about 14 days.

(3) Diagnosis. Infested pigeons are restless and constantly pick and scratch in an effort to dislodge the lice. Heavily infested birds may become weak and thin because the constant annoying movement of lice interferes with their proper relaxation and rest. Careful examination of the birds will reveal the lice.

(3) Diagnosis. Infested pigeons are restless and keep picking and scratching to try to get rid of the lice. Birds with a heavy infestation may become weak and skinny because the constant irritation from the lice prevents them from relaxing and resting properly. A careful examination of the birds will show the lice.

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Figure 42. Life cycle of common red mite.

Figure 42. Life cycle of the common red mite.

(4) Treatment. The use of sodium fluoride is a good standard method for ridding pigeons of lice. It can be applied in two ways:

(4) Treatment. Using sodium fluoride is a reliable method for getting rid of lice on pigeons. It can be applied in two ways:

(a) Dip method is very efficient, but can be used only in warm weather. Birds should be dipped on a warm, sunny day early enough so they will dry before night. Each bird is immersed into the solution up to the head, and the feathers ruffled to allow penetration of the solution. Then the mouth and nostrils are held shut and the head immersed. The dip is made of 1 gallon warm water, and 1 ounce sodium fluoride.

(a) Dip method is very effective, but can only be used in warm weather. Birds should be dipped on a warm, sunny day early enough so they can dry before nightfall. Each bird is immersed in the solution up to its head, and the feathers are ruffled to ensure the solution gets in. Then, the mouth and nostrils are closed, and the head is submerged. The dip consists of 1 gallon of warm water and 1 ounce of sodium fluoride.

(b) Dust method may be used at any time. The birds are held while a few pinches of powdered sodium fluoride are dusted into the feathers over various parts of the body. Sodium fluoride poisons lice when they eat it. Efficiency in delousing birds depends on thoroughness of wetting or dusting.

(b) Dust method can be used at any time. The birds are held while a few pinches of powdered sodium fluoride are sprinkled into their feathers over different parts of their bodies. Sodium fluoride poisons lice when they ingest it. The effectiveness of delousing birds relies on how thoroughly they are wet or dusted.

(5) Repeat treatment. Neither method above will kill nits nor prevent them from hatching; therefore, the delousing must be repeated in 10 to 14 days in order to kill newly hatched lice.

(5) Repeat treatment. Neither of the methods mentioned above will eliminate nits or stop them from hatching; therefore, the treatment needs to be repeated in 10 to 14 days to kill newly hatched lice.

(6) Prevention. Normally, only pigeons carry pigeon lice. For this reason, the spread of lice to or from other kinds of birds is of no concern. However, common pigeons and stragglers are prolific sources of spread. Contact in crates is also a common source of infestation. Lice are often brushed from infested birds onto the hands and clothing of pigeoneers who later carry them to clean birds handled later.

(6) Prevention. Typically, only pigeons carry pigeon lice. Because of this, the transfer of lice to or from other types of birds isn't a major issue. However, common pigeons and stragglers are significant sources of infestation. Contact in crates is also a frequent way for lice to spread. Lice are often brushed off infested birds onto the hands and clothes of those handling pigeons, who then inadvertently pass them on to clean birds they handle afterward.

b. Red mites. Red mites are a common parasite of the pigeon.

b. Red mites. Red mites are a common pest found on pigeons.

(1) Habits (fig. 42). It is important to note the difference between the habits of lice and mites.

(1) Habits (fig. 42). It's important to understand the difference between the habits of lice and mites.

(a) Mites live in, on, and under the nest bowls, nest boxes, and any available crack or crevice.

(a) Mites reside in, on, and beneath the nest bowls, nest boxes, and any available crack or crevice.

(b) Mites go onto the birds only long enough to feed—usually about ½ hour.

(b) Mites only go onto the birds long enough to feed—usually for about 30 minutes.

(c) Red mites suck blood from the pigeons. It is the engorged blood that makes the mite red.

(c) Red mites feed on the blood of pigeons. It's the accumulated blood that gives the mite its red color.

(d) Mite eggs are deposited in the cracks and crevices or debris around the nest box where they live.

(d) Mite eggs are laid in the cracks and crevices or debris around the nest box where they reside.

(e) Eggs hatch in 2 or more days, according to weather conditions.

(e) Eggs hatch in 2 days or more, depending on the weather conditions.

(f) Newly-hatched mites mature in about 5 days.

(f) Newly-hatched mites grow up in about 5 days.

(2) Diagnosis. Pigeon’s loss of condition is the most evident indication of mite infestation. Actual loss of blood is probably less harmful to the bird than annoyance caused by crawling and biting of mites.

(2) Diagnosis. The most obvious sign of a mite infestation in pigeons is the bird's loss of condition. In fact, the actual loss of blood is likely less damaging to the bird than the irritation caused by the crawling and biting of mites.

(3) Treatment. Most good disinfectants supplied to lofts will kill mites satisfactorily if worked well into all cracks and crevices. Oily disinfectants are inexpensive and very effective, but leave the loft rather unsightly. Whitewash kills only by covering up and is ineffective if any areas are missed. For this reason, some of the more refined cresols are used. Four percent saponified cresol in warm water is quite effective.

(3) Treatment. Most good disinfectants provided for attics will eliminate mites effectively if applied thoroughly in all cracks and crevices. Oily disinfectants are affordable and very effective, but they make the attic look unattractive. Whitewash only works by covering surfaces and will not be effective if any spots are overlooked. Because of this, some of the more refined cresols are used. A solution of four percent saponified cresol in warm water is quite effective.

(4) Repeat. Since the cresol does not kill the eggs, it is necessary to repeat treatment in 5 to 7 days.

(4) Repeat. Since the cresol doesn't kill the eggs, it's important to repeat the treatment in 5 to 7 days.

(5) Prevention. Mites that attack pigeons are apparently the same as found on other birds, including domestic poultry. Therefore, wild birds, straggling pigeons, and neighborhood poultry are possible sources of infection. Light, dry, airy lofts do not favor breeding of mites.

(5) Prevention. Mites that infest pigeons are apparently the same ones found on other birds, including domestic chickens. So, wild birds, wandering pigeons, and local poultry are potential sources of infection. Well-lit, dry, and well-ventilated lofts are not conducive to mite breeding.

c. Pigeon flies which are particularly troublesome in warm climates are true flies with short, flat, wide bodies and long wings.

c. Pigeon flies, which can be especially annoying in warm climates, are actual flies with short, flat, wide bodies and long wings.

(1) Life cycle (fig. 46). (a) Pigeon flies live among body feathers.

(1) Life cycle (fig. 46). (a) Pigeon flies live among the feathers of their host.

(b) They leave the birds only to deposit larvae, or when disturbed.

(b) They only leave the birds to lay their eggs or when they are disturbed.

(c) Adult flies suck blood from the birds.

(c) Adult flies feed on the blood of birds.

(d) Female flies deposit living larvae in or around the nest bowl, nest box, or around the loft.

(d) Female flies lay living larvae in or near the nest bowl, nest box, or around the loft.

(e) Newly deposited larvae are white and about the size of a small buck shot. Within a few hours, a hard shell forms around them and they turn from white to brown and then to jet black.

(e) Newly deposited larvae are white and roughly the size of a small BB. Within a few hours, a tough shell forms around them, and they change from white to brown and then to jet black.

(f) Young flies emerge from these shells in about 30 days and are ready for their first meal of blood.

(f) Young flies hatch from these shells in about 30 days and are ready for their first meal of blood.

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Figure 43. Life cycle of pigeon fly.

Figure 43. Life cycle of pigeon fly.

(2) Diagnosis. Pigeon flies can easily be observed crawling among the77 bird’s feathers. Their movement as well as biting greatly annoys the birds. However, the greatest damage they do is transmitting pigeon malaria.

(2) Diagnosis. Pigeon flies can be easily seen crawling through the77 bird's feathers. Their movement and biting are very irritating to the birds. However, the biggest harm they cause is spreading pigeon malaria.

(3) Treatment. A very effective and easily applied method of treatment is to dust the birds lightly with pyrethrum powder. Sweep nest boxes and loft carefully to collect pupae so that they can be destroyed. Pigeon flies will not travel far from the birds; therefore, keep stragglers out of loft and carefully inspect newly-introduced birds to avoid admitting flies.

(3) Treatment. A really effective and easy way to treat the birds is to lightly dust them with pyrethrum powder. Make sure to sweep out the nest boxes and loft thoroughly to gather any pupae so that you can get rid of them. Pigeon flies won’t wander far from the birds; therefore, keep any stragglers out of the loft, and carefully check any newly-introduced birds to prevent letting flies in.

d. Mosquitoes. Mosquitoes are a very common but usually underestimated pest. Besides molesting the birds by biting and sucking blood, they may transmit pox. These troublesome insects breed in standing water, such as swampy areas, old tin cans, and rain barrels. Control consists of draining or oiling breeding places and using screens on loft openings.

d. Mosquitoes. Mosquitoes are a very common but usually underestimated pest. Besides bothering birds by biting and sucking blood, they can transmit diseases like pox. These annoying insects breed in standing water, such as swamps, old tin cans, and rain barrels. Control measures include draining or oiling breeding spots and using screens on loft openings.

e. Other parasites attacking pigeons are fleas, chiggers, ticks, bed bugs, depluming mites, feather mites, air sac mites, subcutaneous mites, sand flies, and beetle larvae. Fortunately, these are rare.

e. Other parasites that affect pigeons include fleas, chiggers, ticks, bed bugs, depluming mites, feather mites, air sac mites, subcutaneous mites, sand flies, and beetle larvae. Luckily, these are uncommon.

54. Internal Parasites

These are the worms that live inside pigeons. Round worms are by far the most numerous. Tape worms are occasionally found in pigeons, but seldom present a serious problem.

These are the worms that live inside pigeons. Roundworms are by far the most common. Tapeworms are sometimes found in pigeons, but they rarely cause serious issues.

a. Ascarids, or common large round worms are the largest and most prevalent of the round worms. Adult worms are from 1 to 2 inches long.

a. Ascarids, or common large roundworms, are the biggest and most common of the roundworms. Adult worms range from 1 to 2 inches long.

(1) Habits. Knowledge of the life cycle of a round worm is of great importance for successful control of this troublesome parasite. This worm has a “direct” life cycle (fig. 47) (completing it in one species).

(1) Habits. Understanding the life cycle of a roundworm is crucial for effectively managing this pesky parasite. This worm has a “direct” life cycle (fig. 47) (completing it in one species).

(a) Mature worms live in the upper part of the small intestines and feed by absorbing food from the intestinal contents through their own body walls.

(a) Mature worms live in the upper part of the small intestines and feed by absorbing nutrients from the intestinal contents through their body walls.

(b) Eggs (ova) are deposited by female worms in the intestinal contents of the pigeon, and later pass out in the pigeon droppings. It has been estimated that female worms lay as many as 12,000 eggs a day. Feces from parasitized birds often contain countless numbers of ova.

(b) Female worms lay their eggs (ova) in the intestinal contents of the pigeon, which later get expelled in the pigeon droppings. It's estimated that female worms can lay up to 12,000 eggs a day. Feces from infected birds often contain countless ova.

(c) Freshly deposited worm eggs are much like freshly laid pigeon eggs, in that they must be incubated before they are ready to hatch. They need to remain in warm, moist litter or soil for 10 to 16 days before the worm larvae can develop. Severe freezing, excessively hot soil, and direct sunlight will destroy the eggs.

(c) Freshly laid worm eggs are similar to freshly laid pigeon eggs because they need to be incubated before they can hatch. They should stay in warm, moist bedding or soil for 10 to 16 days for the worm larvae to develop. Extreme cold, extremely hot soil, and direct sunlight can kill the eggs.

(d) When birds eat the incubated eggs, the worms hatch out in their intestines.

(d) When birds eat the incubated eggs, the worms hatch in their intestines.

(e) The tiny larvae then “sew” themselves into the lining of the intestines and begin to grow.

(e) The small larvae then “attach” themselves to the lining of the intestines and start to grow.

(f) After a few days, the larvae crawl back into the intestinal canal where they mature in 30 to 40 days.

(f) After a few days, the larvae crawl back into the intestinal tract where they mature in 30 to 40 days.

(2) Diagnosis. Ascarids injure birds in several ways.

(2) Diagnosis. Ascarids harm birds in various ways.

(a) When the newly hatched worm “sews” itself into the intestinal lining the area around the puncture becomes inflamed because of mechanical injury, loss of blood, and introduced infection. This localized inflammation renders that part of the intestinal lining useless for digesting and absorbing food.

(a) When the newly hatched worm "sews" itself into the intestinal lining, the area around the puncture gets inflamed due to mechanical injury, blood loss, and introduced infection. This localized inflammation makes that part of the intestinal lining ineffective for digesting and absorbing food.

(b) The worm absorbs food from the intestinal contents which should go to the birds.

(b) The worm takes in food from the digestive contents that should be going to the birds.

(c) In order to protect themselves and avoid being digested, the worms give off a substance that neutralizes digestive juices. This substance becomes mixed with intestinal contents and prevents proper digestion.

(c) To protect themselves and avoid being digested, the worms release a substance that neutralizes digestive juices. This substance mixes with the intestinal contents and disrupts proper digestion.

(d) Worms sometimes become so numerous that they actually clog the intestines. As many as 500 worms have been found in a single bird.

(d) Worms can sometimes multiply to the point where they block the intestines. As many as 500 worms have been found in a single bird.

(e) Worm-infested birds show loss of condition and general unhealthiness. Diagnosis is made by finding worms or worm eggs in droppings or by autopsy on typical specimens.

(e) Birds infected with worms show signs of deterioration and overall poor health. A diagnosis is made by detecting worms or their eggs in droppings or by performing an autopsy on typical specimens.

(3) Treatment. The following drugs are only effective against mature worms and, at best, are only 80 percent efficient:

(3) Treatment. The following medications are only effective against adult worms and, at most, are only 80 percent effective:

1-CC Oil of turpentine per bird.
½-CC Tetrachlorethylene per bird.
½-CC Carbon tetrachloride per bird.

1-CC Turpentine oil per bird.
½-CC Tetrachloroethylene per bird.
½-CC carbon tetrachloride per bird.

(4) Prevention. This is relatively simple and practically 100 percent effective.

(4) Prevention. This is pretty straightforward and nearly 100 percent effective.

(a) Clean loft daily and provide fresh water.

(a) Clean the loft daily and provide fresh water.

(b) If aviary does not have a wire bottom spread clean sand about 1 or 2 inches deep over its floor once every two weeks.

(b) If the aviary doesn't have a wire bottom, spread clean sand about 1 or 2 inches deep over the floor once every two weeks.

(c) Replace moisture and shade by sunshine and dry conditions.

(c) Change moisture and shade to sunshine and dry conditions.

b. Strongyles are the most dangerous of the common round worms and one of the most common causes of death among poorly kept pigeons. The “strongyle” is a very small parasite which multiplies rapidly and is a vicious blood sucker. Adult worms are from ½ to ¾ inches long and about the same size as thin thread.

b. Strongyles are the most dangerous of the common roundworms and one of the leading causes of death among poorly cared-for pigeons. The “strongyle” is a tiny parasite that multiplies quickly and is a vicious bloodsucker. Adult worms are between ½ to ¾ inches long and are about the same thickness as a thin thread.

(1) Habits. This worm has a “direct” cycle; that gives the key to successful control (fig. 45).

(1) Habits. This worm has a “direct” cycle, which is the key to successful control (fig. 45).

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Figure 44. Life cycle of pigeon ascarids.

Figure 44. Life cycle of pigeon roundworms.

(a) Adult strongyles live in the upper intestinal contents, but may be found as far up as the crop.

(a) Adult strongyles live in the upper intestinal contents but can be found as far up as the crop.

(b) Strongyles are ravenous blood suckers.

Strongyles are greedy bloodsuckers.

(c) Female worms deposit eggs in the intestinal contents which later pass out in the feces.

(c) Female worms lay eggs in the intestinal contents, which later exit in the feces.

(d) Eggs incubate in about 1 day, if conditions are favorable.

(d) Eggs hatch in about 1 day if the conditions are right.

(e) Young larvae hatch out and molt about 8 hours later. These larvae again molt in about 3 days and are then infective. Thus, about 5 days elapse from the time the eggs are voided by the bird and the time the young larval worms hatch, molt, and become infective.

(e) Young larvae hatch and molt about 8 hours later. These larvae molt again in about 3 days and then become infective. So, about 5 days pass from the moment the eggs are released by the bird to when the young larval worms hatch, molt, and become infective.

(f) The infective larvae are eaten by the pigeons. Then they pass to the intestines where they mature.

(f) The infectious larvae are consumed by the pigeons. They then move to the intestines where they develop.

(2) Diagnosis. (a) Strongyles injure the birds by lacerating the intestine and sucking blood. After the parasite moves on, the laceration still bleeds considerably before a blood clot forms. Each laceration results in an area of infection and inflammation.

(2) Diagnosis. (a) Strongyles harm the birds by tearing the intestine and sucking blood. After the parasite leaves, the tear continues to bleed significantly until a blood clot forms. Each tear leads to an area of infection and inflammation.

(b) Constant movement of the worms over the inflamed intestine adds to the irritation.

(b) Constant movement of the worms over the irritated intestine adds to the discomfort.

(c) Severe, and sometimes rapid, loss of condition and accompanying anemia are usual symptoms. Diagnosis is confirmed by finding strongyles in the intestine upon autopsy of typical specimens.

(c) Severe and sometimes quick loss of condition and associated anemia are common symptoms. Diagnosis is confirmed by discovering strongyles in the intestine during the autopsy of typical specimens.

(3) Treatment. Treatment is not satisfactory. One-half CC doses of tetrachlorethylene may be tried.

(3) Treatment. Treatment is not satisfactory. Half CC doses of tetrachlorethylene may be tried.

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Figure 45. Life cycle of pigeon strongyle.

Figure 45. Life cycle of pigeon strongyle.

(4) Prevention. The same methods prescribed for ascarids apply to strongyles.

(4) Prevention. The same methods recommended for ascarids apply to strongyles.

c. Other round worms attacking pigeons are numerous, but only capillary worms will be discussed here. These are very thin, hair-like worms sometimes found in the digestive tract of pigeons from the crop down through the intestine. Their life cycle is direct. No satisfactory drug has been found to rid pigeons of this worm. Fortunately, their life cycle is similar to that of ascarids, and the same preventive measures are effective.

c. There are many different roundworms that affect pigeons, but we'll only talk about capillary worms here. These worms are very thin and hair-like, and they can sometimes be found in the digestive system of pigeons, from the crop all the way down to the intestine. They have a direct life cycle. Unfortunately, no effective medication has been discovered to eliminate these worms in pigeons. Fortunately, their life cycle is similar to that of ascarids, so the same preventive measures work.

d. Tape worms, which are occasionally seen in pigeons, acquire a length of 6 to 8 inches.

d. Tapeworms, which are sometimes found in pigeons, can grow to be 6 to 8 inches long.

(1) Life cycle. Tape worms have what is called an indirect life cycle, that is they must pass through at least two different species to complete it (fig. 46).

(1) Life cycle. Tapeworms have an indirect life cycle, meaning they need to pass through at least two different species to complete it (fig. 46).

(a) Adult tape worms are found in the small intestine. Their bodies are made up of a head and segments. The head is essentially an anchor that fastens the worm to the intestine of the bird. The body segments form at the head and mature as they grow further from the head.

(a) Adult tapeworms are found in the small intestine. Their bodies consist of a head and segments. The head acts like an anchor that attaches the worm to the bird's intestine. The body segments develop from the head and mature as they grow farther from it.

(b) Each segment contains both male and female sex organs and, as it matures, becomes virtually a packet of tape worm eggs.

(b) Each segment has both male and female reproductive organs and, as it grows, turns into almost a bundle of tapeworm eggs.

(c) Segments break off and pass out in the feces.

(c) Segments break off and are passed out in the stool.

(d) The tape worm’s eggs are then eaten by a snail, slug, beetle, or other insect which becomes the “intermediate host.” Here the tape worm undergoes a certain amount of development.

(d) The tapeworm’s eggs are then consumed by a snail, slug, beetle, or another insect, which becomes the “intermediate host.” Here, the tapeworm undergoes some development.

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Figure 46. Life cycle of pigeon tape worm.

Figure 46. Life cycle of pigeon tapeworm.

(e) If the intermediate host is eaten by a pigeon, the young tape worm attaches itself to the bird’s intestine and soon grows to maturity.

(e) If a pigeon eats the intermediate host, the young tapeworm sticks to the bird’s intestine and quickly matures.

(2) Diagnosis. Tape worms harm the host by injuring the intestine at the point where they bury their heads, by absorbing food, and by giving off antenzymes.

(2) Diagnosis. Tapeworms harm the host by damaging the intestine where they anchor their heads, by absorbing nutrients, and by releasing enzymes.

(3) Treatment. Unsatisfactory.

(3) Treatment. Not good.

(4) Prevention. (a) Pigeons must be well-cared-for and fed so that they will not care to eat the intermediate hosts.

(4) Prevention. (a) Pigeons should be well-cared-for and properly fed so that they won't be inclined to eat the intermediate hosts.

(b) The method of prevention prescribed for ascarids is also applicable for tape worms.

(b) The prevention method recommended for ascarids also works for tapeworms.

55. Treatment of Injuries

a. Cuts and wounds. Pigeons have marvelous powers of healing their own tissues, perhaps because of their high body temperature and rapid rate of body processes. The following are aids to healing.

a. Cuts and bruises. Pigeons have amazing abilities to heal their own tissues, likely due to their high body temperature and fast metabolic processes. Here are some ways to help with healing.

(1) Clean solid or contaminated wounds with boric acid solution or some very mild antiseptic. Strong disinfectants burn the exposed tissues and delay wound healing.

(1) Clean solid or dirty wounds with a boric acid solution or a very mild antiseptic. Harsh disinfectants can irritate the exposed tissues and slow down the healing process.

(2) Stitch or suture large tears in the skin to make them relatively smaller. Avoid placing suture in such a way that a pocket is formed for this often results in an abscess formation. Use white silk or cotton thread.

(2) Stitch or sew large tears in the skin to reduce their size. Avoid placing the stitches in a way that creates a pocket, as this often leads to abscess formation. Use white silk or cotton thread.

(3) Remove excessively rough edges or hanging flaps of skin with sharp scissors.

(3) Use sharp scissors to trim off any rough edges or loose flaps of skin.

b. Fractures. (1) Broken bones in the extremities of the legs usually respond readily to treatment; those involving the large bones present a more complicated problem.

b. Breaks. (1) Broken bones in the legs typically respond well to treatment; however, fractures involving the larger bones create a more complicated situation.

(2) The type of fracture governs the seriousness of the injury.

(2) The kind of fracture determines how serious the injury is.

(a) Simple fractures are those in which there is no break in the skin in the region of the fracture.

(a) Simple fractures are those where the skin remains intact in the area of the fracture.

(b) Compound fractures are those in which there is a break in the skin over the bone injury.

(b) Compound fractures are those where the skin is broken over the bone injury.

(c) Partial fractures are those in which the bone is cracked but not completely separated.

(c) Partial fractures are when the bone is cracked but not fully broken apart.

(d) Complete fractures are those in which there is actual separation of the parts of bone.

(d) Complete fractures are those where the bone parts are actually separated.

(e) Comminuted fractures are those in which the bone is splintered or fragmented.

(e) Comminuted fractures occur when the bone is shattered or broken into tiny pieces.

(3) Treatment of fractures is quite simple: bring broken parts into contact and immobilize them to avoid movement which might injure delicate healing tissues.

(3) Treating fractures is pretty straightforward: put the broken pieces together and keep them still to prevent any movement that could damage the fragile healing tissue.

(a) Since bones heal in whatever position they are placed, it is necessary to splint the limb in as nearly normal a position as possible.

(a) Since bones heal in whatever position they're placed, it's important to splint the limb in as close to a normal position as possible.

(b) Take care that the splint does not interfere with healing.

(b) Make sure the splint doesn't disrupt the healing process.

1. Do not bandage splint too tightly. The bandage must be snug to avoid movement of the parts, however, if it is too tight, the blood supply will be cut off and the limb will die. Splints applied before the injured limb has swollen must be closely observed for several hours, or until the swelling has reached its maximum so that circulation is not impeded.

1. Don't wrap the splint too tightly. The bandage should be snug enough to keep everything in place, but if it's too tight, it can cut off blood flow and damage the limb. Splints applied before the injured limb has swollen need to be monitored closely for several hours, or until the swelling reaches its peak, to ensure circulation isn't restricted.

2. Pad limb with cotton or gauze to protect it from the hard surfaces of the splint.

2. Wrap the limb with cotton or gauze to protect it from the hard surfaces of the splint.

3. Dust powdered boric acid on the region of the fracture, particularly if the fracture is compound.

3. Sprinkle powdered boric acid on the area of the break, especially if it's a complicated fracture.

(c) Splints may be easily and satisfactorily fashioned from pieces of82 pliable tin. Cut and bend to fit contour of limb in normal resting position (fig. 47). Splints for fractures in the shank should extend down along the shank on one side, then bend to form a loop down around the foot and back up the opposite side of the limb. In a short time the bird learns that it can step on the limb without pain because the weight falls on the loop of the splint rather than on the foot.

(c) Splints can be easily and effectively made from pieces of82 flexible tin. Cut and bend them to fit the shape of the limb in its normal resting position (fig. 47). Splints for fractures in the leg should extend down along one side of the leg, then curve to form a loop around the foot and back up the other side of the limb. After a short time, the bird realizes it can step on the limb without pain because the weight rests on the loop of the splint instead of the foot.

(d) Splints should be left in place for 3 weeks before removing. Healing, if successful, will be sufficient to permit removal of splint at this time.

(d) Splints should stay on for 3 weeks before being taken off. If healing is successful, it will be enough to allow for their removal at that time.

c. Torn crops. These may be successfully sutured if the edges are turned in so that the outside surfaces, not the lining, of the crop come in contact. The skin may then be sutured to help support the crop.

c. Damaged crops. These can be effectively stitched up if the edges are turned inward so that the outer surfaces, not the inner lining, of the crop touch. The skin can then be stitched to provide additional support for the crop.

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Figure 47. Splint for broken leg.

Figure 47. Splint for a broken leg.

56. Medicines

The following items of medical supplies and equipment, in the quantities listed in existing instructions, should meet normal requirements.

The following medical supplies and equipment, in the quantities specified in the current instructions, should fulfill standard needs.

33775

Needle, eye, size 4, 3/8-circle, 6-in.

Needle, eye, size 4, 3/8-circle, 6 in.

36624

Cotton thread, No. 80, 150 yds.

Cotton thread, No. 80, 150 yards.

77110

Basin, hand.

Basin, hand.

77410

Capsule, size 00, gelatin, 100.

Capsule, size 00, gelatin, 100.

77600

Cork, No. 2, ½ × 3/8 in., 100.

Cork, No. 2, ½ × 3/8 in., 100.

77950

Dropper, medicine.

Medicine dropper.

78090

Graduate, 10-CC, glass.

Graduate, 10-CC, glass.

79460

Vial, 1-oz., with screw cap.

1 oz. vial with screw cap.

91110

Iodine, 15 GR, and Potassium; iodide, 22.5-GR, USP, 10 tubes.

Iodine, 15 grams, and potassium iodide, 22.5 grams, USP, 10 tubes.

☆ U. S. Government Printing Office: 1945—621966

☆ U.S. Government Printing Office: 1945—621966


Transcriber’s Note:

Transcriber's Note:

The spelling, punctuation and hyphenation are as the original, except for apparent typographical errors, which have been corrected.

The spelling, punctuation, and hyphenation are as in the original, except for obvious typos, which have been fixed.


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