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OXFORD

THE CLARENDON BUILDING, BROAD STREET
The Clarendon Building, Broad Street
It is the Roman Doric portico of the “Building” we see rising in the centre of the picture, surmounted by a huge leaden figure, forming one of the acroteria of the pediment.
It’s the Roman Doric portico of the “Building” that stands out in the center of the picture, topped by a large lead statue, which is one of the acroteria of the pediment.
This noble piece of architecture was erected from the proceeds of the sale of copies of Lord Clarendon’s History of the Rebellion, completed in 1713.
This impressive piece of architecture was built from the profits made from selling copies of Lord Clarendon’s History of the Rebellion, finished in 1713.
BY JOHN FULLEYLOVE R.I.
DESCRIBED BY EDWARD
THOMAS · PUBLISHED BY
A. & C. BLACK · LONDON · W

Prefatory Note
Most of these chapters have been filled by a brief search into my recollections of Oxford. They aim, therefore, at recording my own impressions as faithfully as the resultant stir of fancy would allow. But I am also deeply and obviously indebted to several books, and in particular to the histories of Oxford by Parker, Maxwell Lyte, and Boase; to Mr. F. E. Robinson’s series of College Histories; to Reminiscences of Oxford and its companion volumes from the Clarendon Press; and, above all the rest, to Anthony à Wood, and to the Rev. Andrew Clark’s perfect editions of that writer’s Life and Times, and of John Aubrey’s Brief Lives. The Editors of The Daily Chronicle, The Illustrated London News, and Crampton’s Magazine have kindly given me permission to reprint a few pages from my contributions thereto.
Most of these chapters have been filled by a quick look back at my memories of Oxford. They aim to capture my impressions as accurately as the imaginative chaos would allow. But I’m also really grateful to several books, especially the histories of Oxford by Parker, Maxwell Lyte, and Boase; to Mr. F. E. Robinson’s series of College Histories; to Reminiscences of Oxford and its related volumes from the Clarendon Press; and, above all, to Anthony à Wood, along with Rev. Andrew Clark’s excellent editions of that writer’s Life and Times, and of John Aubrey’s Brief Lives. The editors of The Daily Chronicle, The Illustrated London News, and Crampton’s Magazine have kindly allowed me to reprint a few pages from my contributions to those publications.
Contents
List of Illustrations
The illustrations in this volume were engraved and printed by the
Carl Hentschel Colourtype, Ltd.
[Pg 17]
The illustrations in this volume were created and printed by the
Carl Hentschel Colourtype, Ltd.
[Pg 17]
ON ENTERING OXFORD
CHAPTER I
ON ENTERING OXFORD
Passing rapidly through London, with its roar of causes that have been won, and the suburbs, where they have no causes, and skirting the willowy Thames,—glassy or silver, or with engrailed grey waves—and brown ploughlands, elm-guarded, solitary, I approached Oxford. Nuneham woods made one great shadow on the land, one great shadow on the Thames. According to an old custom, it rained. But rain takes away nothing from Oxford save a few nice foot passengers. It transmutes the Franciscan habit of the city to a more Dominican cast; and if the foil of sky be faintly lighted, the rain becomes a visible beatitude.
Passing quickly through London, with its buzz of victories, and the suburbs, where there are none, and along the winding Thames—either calm or shimmering, or with rippling grey waves—and across brown fields, bordered by elms, I approached Oxford. The Nuneham woods cast a large shadow over the land and the Thames. As is an old tradition, it rained. But rain takes nothing away from Oxford except a few pedestrians. It changes the city's Franciscan vibe to a more Dominican feel; and if the cloudy sky is lightly lit, the rain becomes a noticeable blessing.
One by one the churches of St. Mary the Virgin and All Saints’, and the pleasant spire of the Cathedral, appear; with the dome of the Radcliffe Camera, Tom Tower of Christ Church, and that old bucolic tower of Robert d’Oigli’s castle on the west. For a minute several haystacks, a gasometer, and the engine smoke replace them. But already that one cameo from[Pg 20] February’s hand has painted and lit and garnished again that city within the heart, which is Oxford. I think, when I see an old woodcut of a patron holding his towered foundation in his hand, about to bestow it as a gift,—as William of Wykeham is depicted, holding Winchester,—that even so Oxford gives to us the stones of church and college, the lawns and shrubs of gardens, and the waters of Isis, to be stored in the chambers of the soul—“Mother of Arts!”
One by one, the churches of St. Mary the Virgin and All Saints’, along with the beautiful spire of the Cathedral, come into view; alongside the dome of the Radcliffe Camera, Tom Tower of Christ Church, and that old countryside tower of Robert d’Oigli’s castle to the west. For a moment, several haystacks, a gasometer, and engine smoke take their place. But already that one snapshot from[Pg 20] February’s hand has painted, illuminated, and decorated that city at the heart of it all, which is Oxford. I think, when I see an old woodcut of a patron holding his towered foundation in his hand, ready to gift it—just like William of Wykeham is shown, holding Winchester—that this is how Oxford gives us the stones of church and college, the lawns and shrubs of gardens, and the waters of the Isis, to be stored in the chambers of the soul—“Mother of Arts!”
City or suburban, thoughtful strolls and shade.
So ran my thoughts and Milton’s verse; and possessed, as it is easy to become in such a place, with its great beauty, thinking of its great renown, my mind went naturally on in the channel of that same stream of verse, while I saw the Christ Church groves, the Hinksey Hills, and the grey Isis—
So my thoughts flowed along with Milton’s poetry; and caught up, as it’s easy to be in such a beautiful place, reflecting on its great fame, my mind naturally drifted along that same stream of verse while I looked at the Christ Church groves, the Hinksey Hills, and the grey Isis—
Plato’s retirement, where the Attic bird Sings her rich, vibrant notes all summer long;
There, flowery hill, Hymettus, with the sound The busy buzz of bees often invites To thoughtful contemplation; there Ilissus flows His softly murmuring stream.
But the dark entry to the city, on the western side, suddenly changed my thoughts. It is well known. It is the most contemptible in Europe. It consists of a hoarding, a brewery, and suitable appurtenances. Of more recent date is the magnificent marmalade shop,[Pg 21] the most conspicuous building in Oxford. On the north and east the approach is not worse, consisting, as it does, of sermons in brick, arranged in perfectly successful imitation of Tooting. On the south the fields are melancholy in apprehension of a similar fate. In short, one ignorant of the city might believe that he was approaching the hub of the universe.
But the dark entrance to the city on the west side suddenly shifted my thoughts. It's pretty well-known—it’s the most disgusting in Europe. It’s made up of a construction fence, a brewery, and related facilities. More recently, there's the stunning marmalade shop,[Pg 21] which is the most eye-catching building in Oxford. From the north and east, the approach isn't any better; it's just a collection of brick buildings that perfectly mimic Tooting. To the south, the fields look gloomy, fearing they’ll meet a similar fate. In short, someone unfamiliar with the city might think they were heading to the center of the universe.
Then, the Norman tower appeared again, and the afforested castle mound rose up. A bell, and many bells, began to sound. The present vanished in charge of a westward-going motor car, containing three gentlemen with cigars and a lady; and the past, softer than the cooing of doves and more compelling than organ music, came with the twilight from the tower of St. Michael’s church.
Then, the Norman tower reappeared, and the wooded castle mound rose up. A bell, and many bells, started to ring. The present faded away with a westbound car carrying three gentlemen with cigars and a lady; and the past, gentler than the cooing of doves and more moving than organ music, arrived with the twilight from the tower of St. Michael’s church.
At sunset or at dawn the city’s place in the world, as a beautiful thing, is clearest. Few cities look other than sad at those hours; many, unless hid in their own smoke, look cheap. Oxford becomes part of the magic of sunset and dawn,—is, as it were, gathered into the bosom of the power that is abroad. Yet, if it is one with the hills and the clouds and the silence, the human dignity of the place is also significant. The work of the ancient architect conspires with that of the sunset and of long, pregnant tracts of time; and I know not whether to thank, for the beauty of the place, its genius or perhaps the divinest series of accidents that have ever agreed to foster the forward-looking designs of men. In the days when what is admirable in Oxford was built, the builder made no pretence to[Pg 22] please his neighbour. He made what he loved. In many cases he was probably indifferent to everything else. But the genius of the place took care; and only the recent architects who have endeavoured to work in harmony with the place have failed. There is a gentle and puissant harmonising influence in Oxford which nothing can escape. I am no lover of Georgian architecture and am often blind to the power of Wren; but in Oxford I have no such incapacities; and I believe that here architecture should be judged, not as Norman or classical, as the work of Wolsey or Aldrich, but as Oxford architecture. The library at Christ Church, or any other work of the eighteenth century, seems to me as divine a thing, though as yet it lacks the complete unction of antiquity, as Mob Quad at Merton or Magdalen Tower. To pass from the Norman work of St. Peter’s in the East to the Palladianism of Peckwater quadrangle, is but to descend from one to another of the same honourable race. If certain extremely new edifices wear out a thousand years they will probably be worthy of reverence at the end of that time, and be in harmony with Merton chapel and Balliol hall at once. Nothing is so deserving, few things so exacting, of respect, from transitory men as age. Things change, and improvements are questioned or questionable; but, for me, age is as good as an improvement; and Oxford honours what is old with particular dignities and graces; under her influence the work of age is at once blander and more swift.
At sunset or dawn, the city's beauty and place in the world become most evident. Few cities look anything but sad during these times; many, unless hidden by their own smoke, appear cheap. Oxford becomes part of the magic of sunset and dawn, as if it's embraced by the power in the air. While it connects with the hills, clouds, and stillness, the human dignity of the city is also important. The work of ancient architects combines with the beauty of the sunset and the weight of time; I’m unsure whether to credit the beauty of the place to its genius or perhaps to a divine series of fortunate accidents that have supported the forward-thinking ideas of people. When the remarkable structures in Oxford were built, the builders aimed to please no one but themselves. They created what they loved, likely indifferent to anything else. But the genius of the place ensured its charm, and only the recent architects who tried to blend in with the environment have struggled. There’s a gentle and powerful unifying influence in Oxford that can't be avoided. I'm not a fan of Georgian architecture and often overlook the strength of Wren's designs; however, in Oxford, I don’t have those limitations, and I think architecture here should be assessed not as Norman or classical, or as the work of Wolsey or Aldrich, but simply as Oxford architecture. The library at Christ Church, or any eighteenth-century work, appears just as divine to me—even if it currently lacks the full grace of antiquity—as Mob Quad at Merton or Magdalen Tower. Moving from the Norman architecture of St. Peter’s in the East to the Palladian style of Peckwater quadrangle is just shifting between two parts of the same honorable lineage. If some very new buildings endure for a thousand years, they’ll likely deserve reverence in the future and harmonize with Merton chapel and Balliol hall at once. Nothing deserves respect more, and few things demand it as much, from fleeting humans as age. Things change, and advancements can be questioned; but to me, age is as valuable as an improvement, and Oxford honors what is old with unique dignity and grace; under its influence, the work of age becomes both gentler and more vibrant.

OXFORD, FROM THE SHELDONIAN THEATRE
Oxford, from the Sheldonian Theatre
On the extreme left of the picture shows the roof of the Schools; the dome of the Radcliffe Library, St. Mary’s tower and spire, and Merton tower, occupying the centre of the picture.
On the far left of the image, you can see the roof of the Schools; the dome of the Radcliffe Library, the tower and spire of St. Mary’s, and Merton tower are positioned in the center of the image.
To the right, over part of Brasenose College, are the elm trees of the Broad Walk. In the foreground are the pinnacles and roof of the Bodleian Library.
To the right, over part of Brasenose College, are the elm trees of the Broad Walk. In the foreground are the spires and roof of the Bodleian Library.
The view is from the Cupola of the Sheldonian Theatre, looking south on a stormy day.
The view is from the Cupola of the Sheldonian Theatre, looking south on a stormy day.
Christ, who, in Leonardo’s picture, unites angel and holy child and St. John with outspread hands,—is exerted not only upon the stones, but also upon the people of the place. A man may at Oxford rejoice in the company of another whom it is a self-sacrifice to meet elsewhere. He finds himself marvelling that one who was merely a gentleman in London can be interesting in Long Wall Street or on the Cherwell. The superb, expensive young man who thinks that there is “practically nobody in Oxford”—the poor, soiled scholar—the exuberant, crimson-lipped athlete, whose stride is a challenge, his voice a trumpet call—the lean and larded æsthete, busily engaged upon the quaint designs of oriental life,—all discover some point in common when they are seen together in the Schools, or on the riverside.
Christ, who in Leonardo's painting brings together the angel, the holy child, and St. John with open arms, doesn't just affect the stones but also the people around. A man might feel fortunate at Oxford to be with someone he wouldn't normally meet elsewhere. He realizes he’s amazed that someone who was just an ordinary gentleman in London can be fascinating in Long Wall Street or by the Cherwell. The flashy, wealthy young man who believes "there's practically nobody in Oxford"—the struggling, unkempt scholar—the lively, red-lipped athlete, whose walk is a challenge and whose voice is a call to action—the slim, pretentious aesthete, busy with the exotic charms of Eastern life—all find some shared connection when they're seen together in the Schools or along the riverside.
I was never more effectually reminded of this Oxford magic than when I heard the City Band playing opposite University one day. I was indifferent, and for the time ignorant and incapable of knowing, whether the music was that of Wagner or Sousa. It seemed to me the music of Apollo, certainly of some one grander than all grand composers. And yet, as I was informed, what I had entirely loved was from an inferior opera which every street boy can improve.
I was never more vividly reminded of this Oxford magic than when I heard the City Band playing across from the University one day. I was indifferent and, at that moment, clueless about whether the music was by Wagner or Sousa. To me, it felt like the music of Apollo, certainly from someone greater than all the great composers. Yet, I later found out that what I had completely loved was from an inferior opera that every street kid could make better.
It was another music, and yet symphonious, that I heard, when I came again to Addison’s Walk at Magdalen. I stopped at Magdalen cloisters on my way[Pg 28]—
It was another music, and yet harmonious, that I heard, when I returned to Addison’s Walk at Magdalen. I paused at the Magdalen cloisters on my way[Pg 28]—
Let any one who has laughed at Oxford discipline, or criticised her system of education, go there in the morning early and be abased before the solemnity of that square lawn; and should he be left with a desire to explain anything, let him take up his abode with the stony mysterious beasts gathered around that lawn. I like that grass amidst the cloisters because it is truly common. No one, I hope and believe, except a gardener, an emblem, is permitted to walk thereon. It belongs to me and to you and to the angels. Such an emerald in such a setting is a fit symbol of the university, and its privy seal.
Let anyone who has mocked Oxford's discipline or criticized its education system go there early in the morning and feel humbled by the solemnity of that grassy square. If he finds himself wanting to explain anything, let him stay among the stone, mysterious creatures gathered around that lawn. I appreciate that grass amidst the cloisters because it’s genuinely common. I hope and believe that only a gardener, as a symbol, is allowed to walk on it. It belongs to me, to you, and to the angels. Such an emerald in such a setting is a perfect representation of the university and its private seal.
It is still unnecessary to pass an examination before entering Addison’s walk. It is therefore unfrequented. A financier made a pretty sum one Midsummer-day by accepting gratuities from all the strangers who came to its furthest point—“a custom older than King Alfred.” But, although they are not vulgarly so called, these walks are the final school of the Platonist. It is an elucidation of the Phædo to pace therein. That periwinkle-bordered pathway is the place of long thoughts that come home with circling footsteps again and again. It is the home of beech and elm, and of whatsoever that is beautiful and wise and stately dwells among beech and elm.
It’s still not necessary to take an exam to enter Addison’s Walk. Because of this, it’s not very crowded. One financier made a good amount of money one Midsummer Day by accepting tips from all the visitors who came to its farthest point—“a custom older than King Alfred.” But, even though they’re not commonly referred to as such, these walks are the ultimate school for Platonists. Walking there is like a deep dive into the Phædo. That periwinkle-bordered path is a place for long thoughts that revisit you with every turn of your steps. It’s a home for beech and elm trees, and for everything beautiful, wise, and dignified that exists among beech and elm.

BISHOP HEBER’S TREE
Bishop Heber's Tree
To the left are seen the steps leading to the Radcliffe Library, over which appears a portion of the buildings of Brasenose College, divided by a lane from the gardens of Exeter College, in which the Bishop planted the chestnut tree named after him.
To the left, you can see the steps leading to the Radcliffe Library, above which is part of Brasenose College, separated by a lane from the gardens of Exeter College, where the Bishop planted the chestnut tree named after him.
The spire of Exeter Chapel shows to the right. The iron railings surround the Radcliffe Library.
The spire of Exeter Chapel is visible on the right. The iron railings encircle the Radcliffe Library.
tree. William of Waynfleet commanded that Magdalen College should be built over against the oak that fell after six hundred years of life a century ago. Sir Thomas White was “warned in a dream” to build a college at a place where there stood a triple elm tree. Hence arose St. John’s College. Two hundred years ago the tree was known to exist, and there is ground for the pious belief that a scion still flourishes there.
tree. William of Waynfleet ordered that Magdalen College be built across from the oak tree that fell after six hundred years of life a century ago. Sir Thomas White was “told in a dream” to establish a college where a triple elm tree stood. This is how St. John’s College came to be. Two hundred years ago, the tree was known to still exist, and many believe that a descendant of it is still thriving there.
Nowhere is green so wonderful as at Magdalen or Trinity. But their sweetness is no more than the highest expression of the privacy of Oxford. Turn aside at the gate that lies nearest your path; enter; and you will find a cloister or cloistral calm, free from wolf and ass. “The walks at these times,” said a vacation visitor, “are so much one’s own—the tall trees of Christ’s, the groves of Magdalen! The halls deserted, and with open doors inviting one to slip in unperceived, and pay a devoir to some Founder, or noble or royal Benefactress (that should have been ours) whose portrait seems to smile upon their overlooked beadsman and to adopt me for their own. Then, to take a peep in by the way at the butteries, and sculleries, redolent of antique hospitality; the immense caves of kitchens, kitchen fire-places, cordial recesses; ovens where the first pies were baked four centuries ago; and spits which have cooked for Chaucer! Not the meanest minister among the dishes but is hallowed to me through his imagination, and the Cook goes forth a Manciple.” With a little effrontery and an English accent you may enjoy the inmost bowers of the Fellows[Pg 34] or, Si qua est ea gloria, gather fruit from the espaliers of the president. The walls are barricaded only with ivy, or wallflower, or the ivy-leaved toadflax and its delicate bells. But the stranger never learns that the seclusion of Oxford is perennial, and that only in the vacations may he suffer from what the old pun calls porta eburna. The place is habitually almost deserted, except by the ghosts of the dead. Returning to it, when friends are gone, and every one is a stranger, the echoes of our footsteps in the walls are as the voices of our dead selves; we are among the ghosts; the past is omnipotent, even terrible. Echoes, quotes Montaigne, are the spirits of the dead, and among these mouldering stones we may put our own interpretation upon that. And no one that has so returned, or that comes a reverent stranger for the first time to Oxford, can read without deep intelligence the lines which are put into the mouth of Lacordaire in “Ionica”:—
Nowhere is green more beautiful than at Magdalen or Trinity. But their beauty is just a perfect example of the solitude of Oxford. If you turn aside at the nearest gate, step inside, and you'll discover a peaceful atmosphere, free from disturbance. “The walks at these times,” said a visitor during their break, “feel entirely personal—the tall trees of Christ’s, the groves of Magdalen! The halls are empty, with open doors tempting you to slip inside unnoticed and pay a tribute to some Founder or noble royal Benefactress (who should have been ours) whose portrait seems to smile down at the overlooked souls and adopt me as one of their own. Then, I like to peek into the buttery and scullery, filled with the aroma of old-world hospitality; the huge kitchens, kitchen fireplaces, cozy nooks; ovens where the first pies were baked four centuries ago; and spits that have cooked for Chaucer! Not the simplest dish among them isn’t made sacred to me through imagination, and the Cook steps out as a Manciple.” With a bit of nerve and a British accent, you can enjoy the inner sanctuaries of the Fellows[Pg 34] or, Si qua est ea gloria, pick fruit from the president's espaliers. The walls are only covered with ivy, wallflower, or the ivy-leaved toadflax with its delicate blossoms. But the outsider never realizes that the seclusion of Oxford lasts forever, and that it is only during breaks that they can suffer from what the old pun calls porta eburna. The place is usually almost empty, except for the ghosts of the dead. Coming back to it when friends are gone and everyone feels like a stranger, the echoes of our footsteps in the walls sound like the voices of our past selves; we are among the ghosts; the past is powerful, even haunting. Echoes, as Montaigne says, are the spirits of the dead, and amid these crumbling stones, we are free to interpret that in our own way. And no one who has returned like this, or who visits Oxford as a respectful newcomer for the first time, can read without deep understanding the lines spoken by Lacordaire in “Ionica”:—
Set in a trading land, just like Gideon’s fleece
Dewy where everything else is dry; the Pope might scowl; But if this city is the place of youth,
How should the Preacher, master of pure souls,
When he walks by cheerful streams and laughing lawns, How can he not bless them? Yet in truth, When I would adore those English groomsmen, sighs Heave my weak chest, and exhaustion clouds my vision.
These strangers do not pay attention to me—far away in France. Aren't young men less beautiful and less distant,
My listeners. If they were here, their welcoming gaze Might charm me to forget that I’m old.
Some time ago I went into a grey quadrangle, filled[Pg 35] with gusty light and the crimson of creeper-leaves, tremulous or already in flight. A tall poplar, the favourite of the months from April to October, was pensively distributing its foliage upon the grass. There, the leaves became invisible, because of brilliant frost, and in a high attic I heard once again the laud or summons or complaint of bells. That was All Saints’; that, St. Mary’s; that, the Cathedral’s; and that was their blended after-tone, seeming to come from the sky. Each bell had its own character or mood, sometimes constant, sometimes changing with the weather of the night. One, for example, spoke out sullenly and ceased, as if to return to musing that had been painfully interrupted. Another bell seemed to take deep joy in its frequent melodious duty—like some girl seated alone in her bower at easy toil, now and then lifting her head, and with her embroidery upon her knee, chanting joys past and present and yet to come. Once again I felt the mysterious pleasure of being in an elevated Oxford chamber at night, among cloud and star,—so that I seemed to join in the inevitable motion of the planets,—and as I saw the sea of roofs and horned turrets and spires I knew that, although architecture is a dead language, here at least it speaks strongly and clearly, pompous as Latin, subtle as Greek. I used to envy the bell-ringers on days of ancient festival or recent victory, and cannot wonder that old Anthony à Wood should have noted the eight bells of Merton as he came home from antiquarian walks, and would often ring those same bells “for recreatio[Pg 36]n’s sake.” When their sound is dead it is sweet to enter that peacefullest and homeliest of churchyards, St. Peter’s in the East, overlooked by St. Edmund’s Hall and Queen’s College and the old city wall. There is a peace which only the thrush and blackbird break, and even their singing is at length merely the most easily distinguishable part of the great melody of the place. Most of the graves are so old or so forgotten that it is easy—and in Spring it is difficult not—to perceive a kind of dim reviving life among the stones, where, as in some old, quiet books, the names live again a purged and untroubled existence.
Some time ago, I walked into a gray courtyard, filled[Pg 35] with harsh light and the bright red of vine leaves, trembling or already being blown away. A tall poplar, loved from April to October, was thoughtfully dropping its leaves onto the grass. The leaves vanished beneath the brilliant frost, and up in a high attic, I heard once more the song or call or lament of bells. That was All Saints’; that was St. Mary’s; that was the Cathedral’s; and that was their combined echo, seeming to come from the sky. Each bell had its own personality or feeling, sometimes steady, sometimes shifting with the night’s weather. One, for example, rang out gloomily and then fell silent, as if returning to a deep thought that had been painfully disrupted. Another bell seemed to take great joy in its frequent melodic duty—like a girl sitting alone in her garden, working at ease, occasionally looking up, with her sewing on her lap, singing of joys past, present, and yet to come. I once again felt the mysterious pleasure of being in an elevated Oxford room at night, among clouds and stars—so much so that I felt as if I was part of the inevitable motion of the planets—and as I gazed out at the sea of roofs and pointed towers and spires, I realized that although architecture is a dead language, here at least it speaks strongly and clearly, grand as Latin, subtle as Greek. I used to envy the bell-ringers on days of old celebrations or recent victories, and I can understand why old Anthony à Wood noted the eight bells of Merton on his way home from his antiquarian walks, often ringing those same bells “for recreation’s sake.” When their sound fades away, it’s comforting to walk into the most peaceful and welcoming churchyard, St. Peter’s in the East, which is watched over by St. Edmund’s Hall and Queen’s College and the old city wall. There’s a calm that only the thrush and blackbird break, and even their singing eventually becomes just the most easily identifiable part of the overall harmony of the place. Most of the graves are so old or forgotten that it’s easy—and in Spring it’s hard not to—sense a kind of faint reviving life among the stones, where, like in some old, quiet books, the names are revived in a pure and untroubled existence.
In Oxford nothing is the creation of one man or of one year. Every college and church and garden is the work of centuries of men and time. Many a stone reveals an octave of colour that is the composition of a long age. The founder of a college laid his plans; in part, perhaps he fixed them in stone. His successors continued the work, and without haste, without contempt of the future or ignorance of the past, helped the building to ascend unto complete beauty by means of its old and imperfect selves. The Benedictine Gloucester House of 1283 has grown by strange methods into the Worcester College of to-day. The Augustinian Priory site is now occupied by Wadham. St. Alban’s Hall is no more; but its lamp—“Stubbin’s moon”—is a light in a recess of Merton. Wolsey drew upon the bank of old foundations for the munificence which is still his renown. A chantry for the comfort of departed souls became a kind of scholarship.[Pg 38][Pg 37]
In Oxford, nothing is created by just one person or in a single year. Every college, church, and garden is the result of centuries of effort from many individuals over time. Each stone reflects a spectrum of colors formed over a long period. The founder of a college had a vision; maybe he even set it in stone. His successors carried on the work, and without rushing or disregarding the future, they built on the past, helping the structure evolve into its complete beauty through its old and imperfect stages. The Benedictine Gloucester House from 1283 has transformed in unusual ways into today’s Worcester College. The site of the Augustinian Priory is now home to Wadham. St. Alban’s Hall no longer exists, but its lamp—“Stubbin’s moon”—still shines in a corner of Merton. Wolsey drew from the rich history of older foundations for the generosity that still defines him. A chantry built for the soothing of lost souls eventually became a sort of scholarship.[Pg 38][Pg 37]

ST. EDMUND’S HALL
ST. EDMUND'S HALL
The picture shows the north wall of the Hall, pierced with windows looking on to the graveyard of St. Peter’s in the East.
The picture shows the north wall of the Hall, featuring windows that overlook the graveyard of St. Peter's in the East.
The confused mass of chimneys and dormer windows give a picturesque appearance to this side of the Hall.
The tangled mix of chimneys and attic windows creates a charming look for this side of the Hall.
New College Gardens lie beyond the wall running across the picture.
New College Gardens are located beyond the wall that stretches across the image.
Duke Humphrey’s library was the nest from which Bodley’s august collection overflowed; the very timber of the Bodleian was in part Merton’s gift. No city preserves the memory and signature of so many men. The past and the dead have here, as it were, a corporate life. They are an influence, an authority; they create and legislate to-day. Everything in the present might have been foretold, and in fact existed in some latent form, in the past, as Merlin was said to have foretold the migration of Oxford scholars from Cricklade, i.e. Greeklade. Therefore, in Oxford alone, as I walk, I seem to be in the living past. The oldest thing is not as in most places a curiosity. Since it is told of Oxford, the story is not lightly to be discredited, that Ludovicus Vives, who was sent as professor of rhetoric by Wolsey, was welcomed by a swarm of bees, and that they, “to signify the incomparable sweetness of his eloquence,” settled under the leads of his study at Corpus Christi College, and there for a hundred and thirty years continued, until they dispersed out of sorrow for the fallen Stuart family. When dawn arrives to the student, after a night among books, and the towers and spires seem to be just fresh from the acting of some stately drama; or at nightfall, when the bells ring as he comes, joyful and tired, home from the west,—then the city and all its component ages speak out, as if the past were but a fine memory, richly stored and ordered.
Duke Humphrey’s library was the place where Bodley’s impressive collection expanded; the very structure of the Bodleian was partly a gift from Merton. No city holds the memory and mark of so many people. The past and those who have died here, in a way, have a collective presence. They exert influence and authority; they shape and guide us today. Everything happening now might have been predicted and, in fact, existed in some hidden form back then, as Merlin reportedly predicted the migration of Oxford scholars from Cricklade, i.e., Greeklade. So, in Oxford alone, as I walk, I feel like I’m in a living history. The oldest things aren’t just curiosities like in most places. It’s said that in Oxford, Ludovicus Vives, who was brought in as a rhetoric professor by Wolsey, was welcomed by a swarm of bees that settled under the roof of his study at Corpus Christi College to “signify the unmatched sweetness of his eloquence,” and they stayed there for a hundred and thirty years until they left out of mourning for the fallen Stuart family. When dawn breaks for a student after a night with books, and the towers and spires seem freshly active from some grand performance; or at sunset, when the bells chime as he returns, joyful and tired, from the west—then the city and all its ages come alive, as if the past is merely a cherished memory, beautifully kept and arranged.
Once, answering the call of one of those bells that are to a scholar as a trumpet to a soldier, I found[Pg 42] myself at a service that had in it elements older than Oxford. I was surely at a Greek festival. The genial, flushed, slightly grotesque faces of the College fellows contrasted with the white children of the choir, very much as the swarthy faun with the young god in Titian’s “Bacchus and Ariadne.” The notes of the choristers and of the organ were moulded to finer results by the severe decorations of the carven stone around and above. When one sang alone, it was as it had been a dove floating to the windows and away, away. There were parts of the music so faint and so exquisitely blended that the twenty voices were but as the sound of a reverberating bell. A voice of baser metal read the lesson with a melancholy dignity that made the words at once pleasing and unintelligible. When the last surplice had floated past the exit, the worshippers looked a little pained and confused, as if doubting whether they had not assisted some beautiful rash heresy. Turning into High Street, I was rudely called back from a fantastic visit to Tempe, by the wind and rain of every day. The usual pageant of study and pleasure was passing up and down.
Once, responding to the call of one of those bells that are to a scholar what a trumpet is to a soldier, I found[Pg 42] myself at a service that contained elements older than Oxford. I was definitely at a Greek festival. The warm, flushed, slightly odd faces of the College fellows stood in stark contrast to the pale children of the choir, much like the dark faun next to the young god in Titian’s “Bacchus and Ariadne.” The notes from the choristers and the organ took on richer qualities from the intricate carvings of stone around and above. When someone sang alone, it felt like a dove gliding to the windows and drifting away. Some parts of the music were so soft and beautifully blended that the twenty voices sounded like the echo of a bell. A voice of coarser tone read the lesson with a sorrowful dignity that made the words both pleasing and hard to grasp. When the last surplice had floated past the exit, the worshippers looked a bit pained and confused, as if they were unsure whether they had participated in some beautiful, reckless heresy. Turning onto High Street, I was abruptly yanked back from a fantastical visit to Tempe by the everyday wind and rain. The usual parade of study and pleasure was moving up and down.
Here was a smiling gentleman, red as the opening morn, with black clothes, white tie,—one who scoffs at everything but gout. He notes in the fragrance of his favourite dishes omens of greater import than augurs used to read from sacrificial victims.
Here was a smiling man, rosy as the morning sun, dressed in black with a white tie—someone who mocks everything except for his gout. He sees in the aroma of his favorite foods signs that are more significant than what the ancient seers used to interpret from sacrificial victims.
Here was a pale seraph, his eyes commercing with the sky. He has taken every possible prize. Nobody but his friends can think that he is uninteresting.[Pg 43]
Here stood a pale angel, his eyes connected with the sky. He has achieved every possible award. Only his friends would believe that he's boring.[Pg 43]
Here was a little, plain-featured, gentle ascetic, one of the “last enchantments of the middle ages” that are to be seen still walking about Oxford. Five hundred years ago he might have ridden, “coy as a maid,” to Canterbury and told “the clerk of Oxford’s tale.” Now, the noises of the world are too much for him, and he murmurs among his trees—
Here was a little, plain-looking, gentle monk, one of the “last remnants of the middle ages” still seen wandering around Oxford. Five hundred years ago, he might have traveled, “shy as a maiden,” to Canterbury and recounted “the tale of the clerk of Oxford.” Now, the sounds of the world overwhelm him, and he quietly speaks among his trees—
Where beauty targets the heart,
Curves in some tree its pointless arrow,
And where the world has no definite direction I can make it, or it doesn't affect me,
But I'm playing it safely,
And annoy its horsemen all day long.
Bind me, you climbing plants in your vines.
Wrap me up, you wandering vines,
And how closely your circles are woven,
May I never leave this place!
Here was a youth not much past seventeen. In his face the welt schmerz contends with the pride in his last bon mot. He is a wide and subtle reader; he has contributed to the halfpenny press. He has materialised spirits and moved objects at a distance. In the world, there is little left for him except repose and weak tea.
Here was a young man just over seventeen. In his face, the welt schmerz battles with the pride of his latest bon mot. He’s a deep and perceptive reader; he’s written for the penny press. He has summoned spirits and moved things from afar. In the world, there’s not much left for him except rest and weak tea.
Here was one that might be a monk and might equally well be St. Michael, with flashing eyes and high white forehead that catches a light from beyond the dawn and glows. He is a splendour among men as he walks in the crowd of high churchmen, low churchmen, broad churchmen, nonconformists, and men who on Sunday wear bowler hats.[Pg 44]
Here was someone who could either be a monk or St. Michael, with bright eyes and a high white forehead that seems to catch light from beyond the dawn and radiates. He stands out among men as he moves through the crowd of high church leaders, low church leaders, broad church leaders, nonconformists, and guys who wear bowler hats on Sundays.[Pg 44]
Here was a shy don, married to Calliope—a brilliant companion—one who shares a wisdom as deep and almost as witty as Montaigne’s, with a few fellows of colleges, and ever murmuring “Codex.”
Here was a shy professor, married to Calliope—a brilliant partner—someone who shares wisdom that's as deep and almost as witty as Montaigne’s, with a few colleagues from colleges, and always murmuring “Codex.”
Here was one, watched over alike by the Muses and the Graces; honey-tongued; athletic; who would rather spend a life in deciding between the Greek and Roman ideals than in ruling Parliament and being ruled by society. He strode like a Plantagenet. When he stood still he was a classical Hermes.
Here was someone, watched over by both the Muses and the Graces; charming; athletic; who would rather spend his life choosing between Greek and Roman ideals than in running for Parliament and being controlled by society. He walked with the confidence of a Plantagenet. When he stood still, he resembled a classical Hermes.
Here was a Blue “with shy but conscious look”; and there the best of all Vices.
Here was a Blue "with a shy but aware look"; and there was the best of all Vices.
Here was a youth, with gaudy tie, who believed that he was leading a bull-dog, but showed a wise acquiescence in the intricate canine etiquette. May his dog not cease before him.
Here was a young guy, wearing a flashy tie, who thought he was walking a bulldog, but he showed a smart understanding of the complicated dog manners. May his dog always stay in front of him.
Here was a martial creature, walking six miles an hour, pensively, in his master’s gown. His beard, always blown over his shoulder, has been an inspiration to generations of undergraduates, and, with his bellying gown, gives him a resemblance to Boreas or Notus.
Here was a warrior-like figure, strolling at six miles an hour, deep in thought, in his master's gown. His beard, constantly swept over his shoulder, has inspired generations of students, and with his flowing gown, he resembles either Boreas or Notus.
Probably because the able novelist has not visited Oxford, men move about its streets more naïvely and with more expression in their faces than anywhere else in the world. There you may do anything but carry a walking-stick. (As I write, fashion has changed her mind, and walking-sticks of the more flippant kinds are commonly in use.) There are therefore more unmasked faces in half of Turl Street than in the whole of the Strand. Almost every one appears to have[Pg 45] a sense of part proprietorship in the city; walks as if he were in his own garden; has no fear lest he should be caught smiling to himself, or, as midnight approaches, even singing loudly to himself. A don will not hesitate to make the worst joke in a strong and cheerful voice in the bookseller’s shop, when it is full of clever freshmen.
Probably because the skilled novelist hasn’t been to Oxford, people navigate its streets more openly and with more expression on their faces than anywhere else in the world. There, you can do anything except carry a walking stick. (As I write, fashion has changed and playful walking sticks are now commonly used.) As a result, there are more unguarded faces in half of Turl Street than in the entire Strand. Almost everyone seems to have a sense of shared ownership of the city; they walk as if they were in their own garden; they have no fear of being caught smiling to themselves, or even, as midnight approaches, singing to themselves loudly. A don won’t hesitate to crack the worst joke in a loud and cheerful voice in the bookseller’s shop when it’s full of clever freshmen.
Yonder they go, the worldly and the unworldly, the rich and poor, high and low, proving that Oxford is one of the most democratic places in Europe. The lax discipline that broadens the horizon of the inexpert stranger is probably neither unwise nor unpremeditated. It is certainly not inconsistent with the genius of a city whose very stones may be supposed to have acquired an educative faculty, and a sweet presence that is not to be put by. No fool ever went up without becoming at least a coxcomb before he came down. In no place are more influences brought to bear upon the mind, though it is emphatically a place where a man is expected to educate himself. A man is apt to feel on first entering Oxford, and still more on leaving it, that the beautiful city is unfortunate in having but mortal minds to teach. There is a keen and sometimes pathetic sense of a great music which one cannot wholly follow, a light unapprehended, a wisdom not realised. Yet much is to be guessed at or privily understood, when we behold St. Mary’s spire, marvellously attended, and crowned, when the night is one sapphire, by Cassiopeia. And the ghosts take shape—the cowled, mitred, mail-coated, sceptred company of founders,[Pg 46] benefactors, master-masons, scholars, philosophers, and the later soldiers, poets, statesmen, and wits, and finally some one, among the rich in influence of yesterday, who embodies for one or another of us the sweetness of the place.
There they go, the worldly and the unworldly, the rich and the poor, the high and the low, showing that Oxford is one of the most democratic places in Europe. The relaxed rules that expand the views of the inexperienced newcomer are probably neither foolish nor unplanned. It's definitely not at odds with the spirit of a city whose very stones seem to possess a teaching ability and a charming presence that can't be ignored. No one ever came here without becoming at least a bit conceited before leaving. There's no other place where so many influences impact the mind, although it’s clearly a place where people are expected to educate themselves. Upon first arriving in Oxford, and even more so when leaving, one might feel that the beautiful city is unfortunate to have only human minds to teach. There’s a sharp and sometimes bittersweet sense of a grand melody that one can’t fully grasp, a light that remains unnoticed, a wisdom that isn't fully acknowledged. Yet, there’s much to be inferred or quietly understood when we see St. Mary’s spire, wonderfully adorned and crowned, with the night sky like a sapphire, thanks to Cassiopeia. And the figures of the past take form—the hooded, crowned, armored, and scepter-holding founders,[Pg 46] benefactors, master craftsmen, scholars, philosophers, and later, soldiers, poets, statesmen, and intellectuals, and finally someone from yesterday's influential elite who represents, for one or another of us, the charm of this place.
For me, when the first splendour of the city in my imagination has somewhat grown dim, I see in the midst and on high, a room, little wider than the thickness of its walls, which were part stone, part books; for the books fitted naturally into the room, leaving spaces only for a bust of Plato, a portrait of Sir Thomas Browne, a decanter, and a window commanding sky and clouds and stars above an horizon of many towers. There, too, is a great fire; a dowager brown teapot; with a pair of slippers,—and to get into them was no whit less magical than into the seven-league boots. I see a chair also, where a man might sit, curled, with the largest folio and be hidden. I guess at the face of the man under the folio. He was a small, shrunken, elvish figure, with a smile like the first of June often budding in a face like the last of December. In rest, that face was grim as if carved in limestone; in expression, like waters in Spring. His curled, ebony hair had a singular freshness and hint of vitality that gave the lie to his frail form and husky voice. Cut in wood, the large nose and chin, peering forward, would have served well as the figure-head of a merry ship, and to me he seemed indeed to travel on such a ship towards a land that no other man desires. His talk was ever of men, fighting, ploughing, singing; and how fair women be;[Pg 48][Pg 47]
For me, when the initial beauty of the city in my mind has faded a bit, I see a room in the middle of it all, just slightly wider than its walls, which are partly made of stone and partly filled with books. The books fit perfectly into the space, leaving just enough room for a bust of Plato, a portrait of Sir Thomas Browne, a decanter, and a window looking out at the sky, clouds, and stars above a skyline of many towers. There’s also a big fire, an old brown teapot, and a pair of slippers that are just as magical to step into as the seven-league boots. I also see a chair where a man can sit, curled up with the largest folio and completely hidden. I can guess what the man’s face looks like under the folio. He’s a small, shrunken, elfin figure with a smile like the first of June blossoming on a face like the last of December. At rest, his face looks stern, almost like it's carved from limestone; but in expression, it’s like the waters in Spring. His curly, dark hair has a unique freshness and hint of life that contradicts his frail body and deep voice. If carved in wood, his prominent nose and chin, peering ahead, would have made a perfect figurehead for a cheerful ship, and to me, he truly seemed to be sailing on such a ship towards a land that no other man wishes for. He always talked about men, fighting, farming, singing; and how beautiful women are;[Pg 48][Pg 47]

THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH OF ST. MARY
THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH OF ST. MARY
The podium and part of one of the Doric columns of the Canterbury Gate of Christ Church show at the extreme left of the picture.
The podium and part of one of the Doric columns of the Canterbury Gate of Christ Church are visible on the far left of the picture.
The lantern of the Radcliffe Library appears between the column and the picturesque house covered with greenery, above which rises the tower and spire of St. Mary’s, the University Church.
The lantern of the Radcliffe Library stands out between the column and the charming house draped in greenery, over which the tower and spire of St. Mary’s, the University Church, rise.
Between this house and a lower building—St. Mary’s Hall—runs St. Mary’s Hall Lane, emerging into “the High” opposite the porch of St. Mary’s Church.
Between this house and a smaller building—St. Mary’s Hall—runs St. Mary’s Hall Lane, which leads out onto “the High” across from the porch of St. Mary’s Church.
The buildings on the extreme right of the picture are those belonging to Oriel College.
The buildings on the far right of the picture are those that belong to Oriel College.
with jests and fancies that disenthroned all powers except fantasy and adventure and mirth. Out of doors, at Yarnton or Cumnor or Tew, he seemed near kinsman to the sun and the south wind, so that for a time we were one with them, with a sense of mystery and of pride. And, whether in or out of doors, he loved the night, because her hands were soft, and he found the shadows infernis hilares sine regibus, as in the world of Saturn. He would hail the morn as he saw her from a staircase window with “Sweet cousin” and such follies; and would go into the chapel on summer evenings without a candle to see prophet and apostle lit by the tender beam. He wrote, and never printed, much verse. When I look at it now, I wonder in what language it was conceived, and where the key is hidden, and by what shores and forests to-day, men speak or dream it. The verses seem to maturer eyes but as crude translations out of silence. Yet in the old days we called him sometimes the Last, sometimes the First, of the Bards, so nimble and radiant was his spirit. He seemed one that might have written Tamerlane in his youth, after a pot of sack with Shakespeare at the “Crown” in Cornmarket Street. I know not whether to call him immemorially old or young. He had touches of the golden age, and as it were a tradition from the singer who was in that ship which
with jokes and fantasies that dethroned all powers except imagination and adventure and joy. Outdoors, at Yarnton or Cumnor or Tew, he felt like a close relative of the sun and the south wind, so that for a while we were one with them, filled with a sense of mystery and pride. And whether inside or outside, he loved the night because her hands were soft, and he found the shadows infernis hilares sine regibus, like in the world of Saturn. He would greet the morning as he saw her from a staircase window with “Sweet cousin” and similar silliness; and would enter the chapel on summer evenings without a candle to see the prophet and apostle illuminated by the gentle light. He wrote, and never published, a lot of poetry. When I look at it now, I wonder in what language it was written, where the key is hidden, and in what places today, people speak or dream it. The verses seem to more discerning eyes like crude translations from silence. Yet in the old days we sometimes called him the Last, sometimes the First, of the Bards, so lively and radiant was his spirit. He seemed like someone who could have written Tamerlane in his youth, after a jug of sack with Shakespeare at the “Crown” in Cornmarket Street. I can’t decide whether to call him timelessly old or young. He had touches of the golden age, and as if it were a tradition from the singer who was in that ship which
First through the Euxine seas bore all the flower of Greece.
First through the Black Sea carried all the best of Greece.
Unlike other clever people in Oxford he was brilliant [Pg 52]in early morning; would rise and talk and write at dawn,—go a-maying,—sing hunting ditties amid the snow to the leaden east and the frozen starlings, by Marston or above Wytham and Eynsham. His laugh fell upon our ears like an echo from long-forgotten, Arcadian existences; it was in harmony with the songs of thrushes and the murmur of the Evenlode. Coming into his room we expected to see a harp at his side. But where are the voices that we heard and uttered?—
Unlike other smart people in Oxford, he was brilliant [Pg 52] in the early morning; he would get up and talk and write at dawn—go out for a walk—sing hunting songs in the snow to the gray east and the frozen starlings, around Marston or above Wytham and Eynsham. His laughter sounded to us like an echo from long-lost, idyllic times; it blended with the songs of thrushes and the gentle flow of the Evenlode. When we entered his room, we expected to see a harp next to him. But where are the voices that we heard and spoke?—
Never coming back?
Once more is the blackbird’s fluting a mystery save that it speaks of him, last of the Bards.
Once again, the blackbird's song is a mystery, except that it tells of him, the last of the Bards.
“Beautiful Mother,” he sang, to Oxford, “too old not to be sad, too austere to look sad and to mourn! Sometimes thou art young to my eyes because thy children are always young, and for a little while it was a journey to youth itself to visit thee. More often, not only art thou old and austere, but thy fresh and youthful children seem to have learned austerity and the ways of age, for love of thee, graciously apparelling their youth,—so that I have met old Lyly in Holywell, and Johnson at the Little Clarendon Street bookshop, and Newman by Iffley rose-window,—with their age taken away, by virtue of a mellower light upon thy lawns and a mellower shade under thy towers, than other cities. Or have I truly heard thee weep when the last revelry is quiet, and the scholar by his lamp sees thee as thou wast and wilt be, and the moonlight has her will with the spires and gardens?[Pg 54][Pg 53]
“Beautiful Mother,” he sang, to Oxford, “too old not to feel sad, too serious to show sadness and grief! Sometimes you appear young to me because your children are always young, and for a little while, visiting you felt like a journey back to youth itself. More often, not only are you old and serious, but your fresh and youthful children seem to have picked up seriousness and the ways of age, out of love for you, graciously dressing up their youth—so that I’ve encountered old Lyly in Holywell, and Johnson at the Little Clarendon Street bookshop, and Newman by Iffley rose-window—with their age softened away, thanks to a warmer light on your lawns and a softer shade under your towers, more so than in other cities. Or have I really heard you weep when the last party dies down, and the scholar by his lamp sees you as you were and will be, while the moonlight has its way with the spires and gardens?[Pg 54][Pg 53]

IFFLEY CHURCH FROM THE SOUTH-EAST
Iffley Church from the Southeast
The massive Norman tower of the Church shows to the left of the picture, the chancel extending eastward to the right.
The huge Norman tower of the Church is visible on the left side of the picture, with the chancel stretching out to the right.
A yew tree—perhaps of the same age as the Church—covers part of the building, serving to throw into relief the remains of a cross, the shaft and base of which are ancient.
A yew tree—possibly as old as the Church—shades part of the building, highlighting the remnants of a cross, the shaft and base of which are ancient.
Oh, to the sad how pleasant thy age, to the joyous how admirable thy youth! Yet to the wise, perhaps, thou art neither young nor old, but eternal; and not so much beautiful as Beauty herself, masked as Cybele! And perhaps, oh sweet and wise and solemn mother, thou wilt not hear unkindly thy latest froward courtier, or at least will let him pass unnoticed, since one that speaks of thee,
Oh, to the sad, how pleasant your age is; to the joyful, how admirable your youth! Yet to the wise, perhaps, you are neither young nor old, but eternal; and not so much beautiful as Beauty herself, disguised as Cybele! And perhaps, oh sweet and wise and solemn mother, you won't take offense at your latest troublesome admirer, or at least will let him go unnoticed since he speaks of you,
Or will it more delight thee to be praised in a tongue that is out of time, as thou seemest out of space and time?—
Or will it please you more to be praised in a language that is outdated, just like you seem to be out of place and time?—
Who doesn't have the authority of unambiguous power, nor a fickle crowd, Those who do not hold laws or camps do so with a noble heart. You conquer hope and fear. We, a worthless crowd, deal with fleeting Deserve good and always choose ready, We scatter in the event. High are you in mind from the citadel. You mock the wanderers and laugh at human joys. [Pg 59][Pg 58]
THE STONES OF OXFORD

TOM TOWER, CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE
Tom Tower, Christ Church College
The palisade enclosing the graveyard of St. Aldate’s Church is on the left; some of the buildings of Pembroke College appear to the right.
The fence surrounding the graveyard of St. Aldate’s Church is on the left, while some of the buildings of Pembroke College can be seen on the right.
The gateway in the centre of the picture is the west entrance to Christ Church from St. Aldate’s, and leads into the Fountain Quadrangle. The tower, to the level of the finial of the ogee-headed window, is of the date of Wolsey’s foundation; the remaining part was added by Sir Christopher Wren.
The gate in the center of the picture is the west entrance to Christ Church from St. Aldate’s and opens into the Fountain Quadrangle. The tower, reaching up to the top of the ogee-headed window, dates back to Wolsey’s foundation; the rest was added by Sir Christopher Wren.
CHAPTER II
THE STONES OF OXFORD
Standing at Carfax, and occasionally moving a step to one side or another, I see with my eyes, indeed, the west front of Christ Church, with Tom Tower; the borders of All Saints’ and St. Mary’s; and that grim tower of St. Michael’s; and the handsome curves of High Street and St. Aldate’s, which are part of the mere good fortune of Oxford: but, especially if a dawn light recall the first dim shining, or a sunset recall the grey and golden splendour of its maturity, I may also see the past of the University unrolled again. For at Carfax I am in sight of monuments on which is implied or recorded all its history. On the south, above Folly Bridge, is the gravelly reach that formed the eponymous ford; between that and Christ Church was the old south gate; and, through Wolsey’s gateway, lies the Cathedral, speaking of St. Frideswide, the misty, original founder,—King’s daughter, virgin, martyr, saint,—and, with its newly revealed Norman crypt, which perhaps[Pg 66] held the University chest in the beginning, representative of Oxford’s piety and generosity. On the east, in the High Street, University College and St. Mary’s and Brasenose speak clearly, although falsely, of King Alfred. There, by St. Peter’s in the East, was the old east gate; and in sight of these is Merton, the fount of the collegiate idea. On the north, in Cornmarket Street, St. Michael’s marks the place of the north gate, and while it is one of the oldest, is by far the oldest-looking place in Oxford, rising up always to our surprise, like a piece of substantial night left by the dark ages, yet clothed with green in June. On the west, the Castle tower, twin made with St. Michael’s by the first Norman lord of Oxford, lies by the old west gate; and the quiet, monstrous mound beyond recalls the days of King Alfred’s daughter’s supremacy in Mercia. At Carfax itself there is still a St. Martin’s church, a descendant of the one whose bells in the Middle Ages and again in the seventeenth century, called the city to arms against the University, but long ago deprived of its insolent height of tower, because the citizens pelted the scholars therefrom.
Standing at Carfax, and sometimes shifting to one side or the other, I can clearly see the west front of Christ Church with Tom Tower; the edges of All Saints’ and St. Mary’s; that imposing tower of St. Michael’s; and the elegant curves of High Street and St. Aldate’s, all of which are part of Oxford's incredible charm. But especially when dawn light brings back the first faint glow, or a sunset casts grey and golden beauty over it, I can also envision the University’s past unfolding again. From Carfax, I can spot monuments that imply or document its entire history. To the south, above Folly Bridge, is the stony area that formed the namesake ford; between that and Christ Church was the old south gate; and through Wolsey’s gateway is the Cathedral, which tells the story of St. Frideswide, the legendary founder—a king’s daughter, virgin, martyr, saint—and with its newly uncovered Norman crypt, which perhaps[Pg 66] originally housed the University’s chest, symbolizing Oxford’s devotion and generosity. To the east, along High Street, University College, St. Mary’s, and Brasenose misleadingly honor King Alfred. There, by St. Peter’s in the East, stood the old east gate; and nearby is Merton, the birthplace of the collegiate idea. To the north, in Cornmarket Street, St. Michael’s denotes the site of the north gate, and while it’s one of the oldest, it looks the oldest in Oxford, surprising us as it stands like a solid remnant from the dark ages, yet adorned with greenery in June. To the west, the Castle tower, created alongside St. Michael’s by the first Norman lord of Oxford, is located by the old west gate; and the quiet, massive mound beyond recalls the era of King Alfred’s daughter’s reign in Mercia. At Carfax itself, there is still a St. Martin’s church, a descendant of the one whose bells rang in the Middle Ages and again in the seventeenth century, summoning the city to arms against the University, but it was long ago stripped of its towering height since the citizens used to throw things at the scholars from there.
Moved by the presence of a city whose strange beauty was partly interpreted from these vigorous hieroglyphics, mediæval and later men, who had the advantage of living before history was invented, framed for it a divine or immensely ancient origin. Even kings, or such as quite certainly existed, were deemed unworthy to be the founders. We believe now that the first mention of Oxford was as an inconsiderable[Pg 68][Pg 67]
Moved by the presence of a city whose unique beauty was partly interpreted from these bold symbols, medieval and later people, who lived before history was recorded, created for it a divine or extremely ancient origin. Even kings, or those who definitely existed, were considered unworthy to be its founders. We now believe that the first mention of Oxford was as a minor[Pg 68][Pg 67]

ST. GILES’S, LOOKING TOWARDS ST. MARY MAGDALEN (SOUTH)
ST. GILES’S, FACING ST. MARY MAGDALEN (SOUTH)
Some picturesque houses on the left lead to the entrance of St. John’s College, seen through the trees. Farther on appears the tower of the Church of St. Mary Magdalen in Cornmarket. The mass to the extreme right above the cab shelter is part of the west side of St. Giles’s and the houses surrounding the Taylor Institution and new Ashmolean Museum.
Some charming houses on the left lead to the entrance of St. John’s College, which can be seen through the trees. Further along, you can see the tower of the Church of St. Mary Magdalen in Cornmarket. The large building to the far right above the cab shelter is part of the west side of St. Giles's, along with the houses around the Taylor Institution and the new Ashmolean Museum.
The posts and rails in the foreground enclose a grassed space in front of St. Giles’s Church.
The posts and rails in the foreground surround a grassy area in front of St. Giles’s Church.
The time is sunset in summer.
It's summer sunset.
but progressive township in the reign of Edward the Elder, Alfred’s son: but those old lovers attributed to Alfred the restoration of a university that was in his time old and honoured; and some said that he endowed three doctors of grammar, arts, and theology, there; others, less precise than those who put the foundation of Cambridge at 4317 B.C., discovered that Oxford was founded by the Trojans who (as used to be well known) came to Britain from their burning city. But to Oxford the Trojans brought certain Greek philosophers, and at that early date illustrated the universal hospitality and independence of nationality and language that were so characteristic, before the place became a Stuart park. And as the Athenians had in their city and its attendant landscape all those natural beauties and utilities which make possible a peerless academy, so also had the Britons, says Anthony à Wood, herein agreeing with Polydore Vergil, “when by a remnant of the Grecians, that came amongst them, they or their successors selected such a place in Britain to plant a school or schools therein, which for its pleasant situation was afterwards called Bellositum or Bellosite, now Oxford.” Among these generous suppositions or dreams was the story that Apollo, at the downfall of the Olympians, flying now to Rome and now to Athens, found at last something congenial in the brown oak woods and silver waters of Oxford, and a bride in the puissant nymph of Isis; on which favoured site, as was fitting, there afterwards arose a place, with the learning and architectural beauty of Athens, the divine[Pg 72] inspiration of Delphi, and the natural loveliness of Delos....
but progressive township in the reign of Edward the Elder, Alfred’s son: but those old lovers credited Alfred with restoring a university that was already old and respected in his time; some claimed that he supported three scholars in grammar, arts, and theology there; others, less specific than those who dated the founding of Cambridge to 4317 B.C., believed that Oxford was founded by the Trojans who, as was commonly known, came to Britain from their burning city. To Oxford, the Trojans brought certain Greek philosophers, and at that early time, they showcased the universal hospitality and independence of nationality and language that were so typical, before the place became a Stuart park. Just as the Athenians had all the natural beauty and resources in their city and landscape that make for an unmatched academy, so did the Britons, says Anthony à Wood, agreeing with Polydore Vergil, “when a remnant of the Greeks, who came among them, chose such a spot in Britain to establish a school or schools, which for its pleasant location was eventually called Bellositum or Bellosite, now Oxford.” Among these generous assumptions or myths was the story that Apollo, at the fall of the Olympians, flitting between Rome and Athens, finally found a suitable home in the brown oak forests and silver waters of Oxford, and a bride in the powerful nymph of Isis; on this favored site, fittingly, there later emerged a place with the scholarship and architectural beauty of Athens, the divine inspiration of Delphi, and the natural charm of Delos....
There is, said Anthony à Wood, “an old tradition that goeth from father to son of our inhabitants, which much derogateth from the antiquity of this city—and that is: When Frideswyde had bin soe long absent from hence, she came from Binsey (triumphing with her virginity) into the city mounted on a milk-white ox betokening innocency; and as she rode along the streets, she would forsooth be still speaking to her ox, ‘Ox forth,’ ‘Ox forth’ or (as ’tis related) ‘bos perge’ (that is, ‘ox goe on,’ or ‘ox (goe on) forth’)—and hence they indiscreetly say that our city was from thence called Oxforth or Oxford.”
There is, according to Anthony à Wood, “an old tradition passed down from father to son among our residents that undermines the ancient history of this city—and that is: When Frideswyde had been away for so long, she returned from Binsey (triumphant in her virginity) to the city riding on a milk-white ox symbolizing innocence; and as she rode through the streets, she would be talking to her ox, ‘Ox forth,’ ‘Ox forth’ or (as it’s said) ‘bos perge’ (which means, ‘ox go on,’ or ‘ox (go on) forth’)—and because of this, they unwisely claim that our city was named Oxforth or Oxford.”
But there has never been composed a quite appropriately magnificent legend that could be received by the faithful as the canonical fiction for Oxford, as the Aeneid is for Rome; and now there can never be.
But there has never been a truly magnificent legend created that could be accepted by the faithful as the official story for Oxford, like the Aeneid is for Rome; and now there never will be.
There is, however, still a pleasant haze (that might encourage a poet or a herald) suspended over the early history of Oxford. It is unlikely that the place was of importance in Roman times; later, its position on a river and a boundary brought it many sufferings at the hands of Dane and Saxon. But no one need fear to believe that, early in the eighth century, Didan, an under king, and his daughter Frideswide established there a nunnery and built a church of stone, now perhaps mingled with the later masonry. It was rebuilt by Ethelred in the eleventh century with a quite exceptional fineness in the Saxon workmanship; and was girdled by the churches[Pg 74][Pg 73]
There’s still a nice mist (that might inspire a poet or a messenger) hanging over the early history of Oxford. It’s unlikely that the area was significant during Roman times; later, its location by a river and on a boundary brought it a lot of hardships from the Danes and Saxons. But there’s no reason not to believe that, early in the eighth century, Didan, a local king, and his daughter Frideswide set up a nunnery there and built a stone church, which is probably now mixed with later construction. Ethelred rebuilt it in the eleventh century with remarkable quality in the Saxon craftsmanship; and it was surrounded by the churches[Pg 74][Pg 73]

CHRIST CHURCH—INTERIOR OF LATIN CHAPEL
CHRIST CHURCH—INSIDE LATIN CHAPEL
The Shrine of St. Frideswide appears in the middle of the picture, standing in one of the eastern bays of the north wall of the choir. The north side of the Shrine is seen, together with the ancient wooden watching-chamber above.
The Shrine of St. Frideswide stands in the center of the image, located in one of the eastern sections of the north wall of the choir. The north side of the Shrine is visible, along with the old wooden watching chamber above.
A tomb shows between the column and the seventeenth-century reading-desk at the right of the picture, also a glimpse of the choir.
A tomb appears between the column and the seventeenth-century reading desk on the right side of the picture, along with a view of the choir.
The carved oak stall front immediately under the Shrine is probably of the time of Wolsey, and part of the furniture of his choir.
The carved oak stall front right under the Shrine likely dates back to Wolsey's time and was part of the furniture in his choir.
To the left is the east window of the Chapel—filled with stained glass representing scenes in the life of St. Frideswide, designed by Sir Edward Burne-Jones, Bart., and executed by Mr. William Morris.
To the left is the east window of the Chapel—filled with stained glass depicting scenes from the life of St. Frideswide, designed by Sir Edward Burne-Jones, Bart., and crafted by Mr. William Morris.
The two figures represent a visitor to the shrine of the saint and a verger.
The two figures represent a visitor to the saint's shrine and a caretaker.
of St. Martin, St. George, St. Mary Magdalen, St. Mary the Virgin, St. Ebbe, St. Michael, and St. Peter in the East; and the last two, to one who had stood at Carfax in 1100, would still be recognised, if he visited the shadowed doorway and stern crypt of the one, and the tower of the other, though he might look in vain for what he knew in “The Seven Deadly Sins lane” and elsewhere.
of St. Martin, St. George, St. Mary Magdalen, St. Mary the Virgin, St. Ebbe, St. Michael, and St. Peter in the East; and the last two, to someone who had stood at Carfax in 1100, would still be recognized if he visited the shaded doorway and imposing crypt of one, and the tower of the other, even though he might search in vain for what he remembered in “The Seven Deadly Sins lane” and other places.
Whatever learning then flourished in the city is now to be found in its architecture, in Prior Philip’s book on the miracles of St. Frideswide, and in the inestimable atmosphere of the place. We can guess that there was much that is worthy to be known, from the eloquent monkish figures of the corbels in Christ Church chapter-house; and can wistfully think of the wisdom that was uttered in Beaumont, the royal palace and learned resort, whose gardens lay at Broken Hays and near Worcester College; and in Osney Abbey, whose bells—Hautclere, Douce, Clement, Austin, Marie, Gabriel et John—made music that was known to the Eynsham abbot on May evenings, when it was a rich, calm retreat, and not as now, a shadowy outline and a sorrowful heap of stones beyond the railway station. More than the ghost of the abbey survives in the sketch of its ruined but still noble walls, in the background of that picture of its last abbot, in a window of the south choir aisle at Christ Church.
Whatever learning thrived in the city can now be found in its architecture, in Prior Philip’s book about the miracles of St. Frideswide, and in the incredible atmosphere of the place. We can assume there was much worth knowing, based on the expressive monk-like figures of the corbels in Christ Church chapter-house; and we can wistfully think of the wisdom that was shared in Beaumont, the royal palace and scholarly retreat, whose gardens were located at Broken Hays and near Worcester College; and in Osney Abbey, whose bells—Hautclere, Douce, Clement, Austin, Marie, Gabriel, and John—created music that reached the ears of the Eynsham abbot on May evenings, when it was a rich, peaceful escape, not like now, a shadowy outline and a sad pile of stones by the railway station. More than just a ghost of the abbey remains in the depiction of its ruined but still noble walls, in the background of that image of its last abbot, in a window of the south choir aisle at Christ Church.
Before the Conquest Oxford had been visited by parliaments and kings; it now began to be honoured by learning and art. Olim truncus eram....[Pg 78] maluit esse deum. It had often been violated or burned; in Doomsday Book it appears as a half desolate city, despite the churches; but it had already begun, though again checked by fire that flew among the wooden houses with such ghastly ease, to assume the proportions and the grace which were fostered by William of Wykeham and a hundred of the great unknown, and in the last few years by Aldrich and Wren and Jones,—crowned by the munificence of Radcliffe,—illuminated with green and white and gold and purple by the unremembered and by Reynolds, Morris, and Burne-Jones. The Saxon work at St. Frideswide’s was superseded or veiled by the Norman architects; the fine old pillars were in part altered or replaced; and the relics of the Saint herself were transferred ceremoniously and “with all the sweet odours and spices imaginable,” to a more imposing place of rest. Upon the base of the old fortifications probably now rose the bastions of the mediæval city wall, once so formidable but now defensive only against time, and unable any longer to make history, but only poetry, as they stand peacefully and muffled with herbage in New College Gardens, or at Merton or Pembroke, or by the churchyard of St. Peter’s in the East.
Before the Conquest, Oxford was visited by parliaments and kings; it now started to be recognized for its learning and art. Olim truncus eram....[Pg 78] maluit esse deum. It had often been attacked or burned; in the Domesday Book, it appears as a partly desolate city, despite the churches; but it had already begun, though again hindered by fires that spread easily among the wooden houses, to take on the size and beauty that were nurtured by William of Wykeham and many great unknowns, and in recent years by Aldrich, Wren, and Jones,—topped off by Radcliffe's generosity,—brightened with green, white, gold, and purple by the forgotten and by Reynolds, Morris, and Burne-Jones. The Saxon work at St. Frideswide’s was replaced or hidden by the Norman architects; the beautiful old pillars were partly changed or swapped out; and the remains of the Saint herself were ceremoniously moved “with all the sweet odors and spices imaginable” to a more impressive resting place. The base of the old fortifications likely now supported the bastions of the medieval city wall, once so intimidating but now only protecting against time, unable any longer to make history, but only poetry, as they stand peacefully and covered with greenery in New College Gardens, or at Merton or Pembroke, or by the churchyard of St. Peter’s in the East.
The history of that age in Oxford is indistinct, and recorded events therein have a suddenness, for modern readers, which is vivid and fascinating, but to the historian at least, painful and false. And so the birth of the University, in the midst of darkness and noise, is to us to-day a melodious sudden cry. It is as if a voice,[Pg 80][Pg 79]
The history of that time in Oxford is unclear, and the recorded events have a suddenness that is striking and intriguing to modern readers, but to historians, it’s often frustrating and misleading. So, the founding of the University, in the midst of chaos and uncertainty, feels to us today like a beautiful, sudden shout. It’s as if a voice,[Pg 80][Pg 79]

ST. PETER’S-IN-THE-EAST
St. Peter's in the East
To the extreme right of the picture, through a huge buttress on the south side of the chancel, is pierced the doorway to the twelfth-century crypt, extending some 36 feet under the chancel of the Church.
To the far right of the image, through a massive support on the south side of the chancel, is the entrance to the twelfth-century crypt, which extends about 36 feet beneath the chancel of the Church.
To the west of this buttress, in the angle formed by another buttress, appear the remains of a Norman arcading, broken through for the insertion of the early fifteenth-century window. The windows of the nave showing in the picture are also of this date, as is the south porch.
To the west of this support, in the corner created by another support, are the remains of a Norman arcade, altered to fit an early fifteenth-century window. The windows of the nave visible in the picture are also from this period, as is the south porch.
It will be noted that this porch has a room over it—probably the lodgings of a priest. Across the graveyard and Queen’s Lane to the west are the buildings of Queen’s College; to the immediate left of the yew tree in the centre of the picture shows the east end of the Chapel; more to the north the dome of the campanile appears.
It’s worth mentioning that this porch has a room above it—likely the quarters of a priest. To the west, across the graveyard and Queen’s Lane, are the buildings of Queen’s College; directly to the left of the yew tree in the center of the image is the east end of the Chapel; further north, you can see the dome of the campanile.
To the extreme left of the graveyard shows a portion of the ivy-covered north wall of St. Edmund’s Hall (see other picture).
To the far left of the cemetery is a section of the ivy-covered north wall of St. Edmund’s Hall (see other picture).
unexpectedly arose, calling—and the words are said to have been used by two poor Irish students in an ignorant and worldly land—“Here is wisdom for sale! Come, buy!” We know that famous lecturers from the continental universities came; but not with what eloquence and applause they spoke. It may confidently be surmised that there was something sweet to learned minds in the air or tradition of the place. The walls are fallen or forgotten that heard the prelusive lectures of Pullein and Vacarius; and the brilliant Franciscan house in St. Benedict’s is chiefly known by its influence in the founding of Balliol, and by the greatest schoolmen, its alumni. But if we go to the grey domestic little lodgings, with “arms and rebusses that are depicted and cut in stone over each door,” vestiges of a Benedictine scholastic house, at Worcester College, we may fancifully pierce beyond John Giffard’s foundation and the preceding Carmelites, to the earliest lovers of learning who loved Oxford too. At St. Mary’s the work of the fancy is easier and more sure. There the University books, and there a money chest, reposed. There were the highest deliberations and ceremonies. There a man was graduated, and from its porch he passed out a clerk of Oxford.
unexpectedly appeared, calling—and it's said that the words were used by two struggling Irish students in an uninformed and worldly place—“Here’s wisdom for sale! Come, buy!” We know that well-known lecturers from the continental universities came; but we can only imagine how eloquently and enthusiastically they spoke. It’s safe to say that there was something inspiring for scholarly minds in the atmosphere or legacy of the location. The walls that once echoed the opening lectures of Pullein and Vacarius have fallen or been forgotten; and the brilliant Franciscan house in St. Benedict’s is mainly recognized for its role in founding Balliol and for its greatest scholars, its graduates. However, if we visit the modest little lodgings adorned with “arms and rebuses that are carved in stone over each door,” remnants of a Benedictine scholarly house, at Worcester College, we might whimsically reach back beyond John Giffard’s foundation and the earlier Carmelites, to those earliest lovers of knowledge who cherished Oxford as well. At St. Mary’s, this imaginative exploration is easier and more certain. There, the University books rested, and there was a money chest. The highest deliberations and ceremonies took place there. A person graduated there, and from its porch, they stepped out as a scholar of Oxford.
If the University was early associated with a place of holiness and beauty, still more firmly was it rooted in a becoming poverty. It had neither a roof nor a certain purse. For years it had not a name. The University was in fact but a spirit of wisdom and grace; men had heard of it and sought it; and where one or two were[Pg 84] gathered together to take advantage of it, there was her school and her only endowment. Now and then to such a group came in a legacy of books or gold. But that was a crop for which no one sowed, and before it was possible, it had been rumoured that there was something in Oxford not visible, yet very present and necessary; and scholars came with as great zeal as was ever cherished by reports of gold. They brought what in their devotion they came to seek. Thus Gerald of Wales came, and for three days read aloud his glorious book to large audiences. Every day was marked by sumptuous and generous feasts. It was, indeed, “a costly and noble act,” as he says himself, “for the authentic and ancient times of the poets were thus in some measure renewed.” Carmelites, Dominicans, and Franciscans, and vivid men from the University of Paris, came to teach. Even then, the University quarrelled with the town over the price of victuals and rooms, and invaded the extortionate Jew. There, about the streets, walked the magnificent Franciscans, Roger Bacon and Grosseteste, and the pure and gracious and learned St. Thomas Cantelupe.
If the University was initially linked to a place of holiness and beauty, it was even more deeply rooted in a fitting kind of poverty. It had neither a roof nor a steady income. For years, it didn’t have a name. The University was really just a spirit of wisdom and grace; people had heard of it and sought it out; and wherever one or two were[Pg 84] gathered to benefit from it, that was its school and its only support. Occasionally, a group might receive a legacy of books or money. But that was something no one actively sought, and long before it became possible, rumors spread that there was something in Oxford that was invisible yet very present and essential; scholars came with as much enthusiasm as if they were drawn by tales of treasure. They brought with them what they had come to seek in their devotion. So, Gerald of Wales arrived and spent three days reading aloud his magnificent book to large audiences. Each day featured lavish and generous feasts. It was, in fact, “a costly and noble act,” as he himself stated, “for the authentic and ancient times of the poets were thus in some measure renewed.” Carmelites, Dominicans, and Franciscans, along with spirited scholars from the University of Paris, came to teach. Even then, the University clashed with the town over the cost of food and housing and took on the greedy Jew. There, within the streets, walked the magnificent Franciscans, Roger Bacon and Grosseteste, along with the pure, gracious, and learned St. Thomas Cantelupe.
Early in the nineteenth century there was a Chancellor set over the scholars by the Bishop of Lincoln, in whose diocese Oxford lay. Very soon the Chancellor was elected by the University; and the Masters in congregation could legislate, and sometimes did, although questions were often effectually decided by a popular vote among the students,—who also themselves chose by vote the heads of their hostels or halls. For there[Pg 85] were, at an early date, houses already associated with learning, and governed either by a common landlord or by a scholar of some standing and age. There a man might read, and comfort himself according to his means, and finally at night stamp up and down a passage, to warm his feet, before going to sleep in a crowded bed-chamber. On any day there was a chance that some splendid man, coming a little in the rear of his fame, would arrive in Oxford, and lecture or read a book. Should kings, or priests, or rude citizens interfere, the scholar could rusticate voluntarily—as he sometimes did—at Stamford, or Reading, or Maidstone, or Cambridge, and there, as best he might, by study and self-denial, as by a sacrament, recreate the University. The City, and until our own time the Crown, had to pay in round sums for such an insult as the hanging of several scholars; the money lined the bottom of St. Frideswide’s chest. A man with no possessions but the leaf of a manuscript, or a dagger, or a cloak, left it with the keepers of the chest as security for a loan, whether he were Welsh, or Hungarian, or Italian, or French.
Early in the nineteenth century, a Chancellor was appointed over the scholars by the Bishop of Lincoln, whose diocese included Oxford. Soon after, the University elected the Chancellor; and the Masters in congregation could create laws, and sometimes did, although often questions were effectively decided by a popular vote among the students, who also voted for the heads of their hostels or halls. There were, from an early time, houses already linked to education, governed either by a common landlord or by an established scholar. There, a person could study and find comfort within their means, and later at night walk up and down a hallway to warm their feet before going to sleep in a crowded bedroom. Any given day could bring a distinguished person, slightly trailing behind their fame, to arrive in Oxford, either to lecture or to read a book. If kings, priests, or unruly citizens got involved, the scholar could voluntarily take time off—sometimes doing so—at Stamford, Reading, Maidstone, or Cambridge, where, through study and self-discipline, they could rejuvenate the University. The City, and until modern times, the Crown, had to pay a hefty price for such an affront as the hanging of several scholars; the money filled the bottom of St. Frideswide’s chest. A person with nothing but a manuscript page, a dagger, or a cloak would leave it with the chest's keepers as collateral for a loan, whether they were Welsh, Hungarian, Italian, or French.
An Englishman, William of Durham, who had enjoyed the University hospitality at Paris, first kindled the flame which was to be kept burning by so many afterwards, as a focus perennis for the homeless student. He left Paris after a town-and-gown quarrel, along with many French students, whom Henry III. welcomed to Oxford in 1229. William went to Rome, before returning to England, and remembered Oxford when he lay dying at Rouen—perchance reminded there of the city[Pg 86] which until fifty years ago was equal with it in ancient beauty, and has been clouded in the same way. He left in his will a sum of money to the University. It was employed in making more steadfast abodes for Oxford students; at a house, for example, that stood on the site of the bookseller’s shop opposite University College lodge. This act is counted the foundation of University College, with its original four masters, who shall be thought “most fit to advance or profit in the Holy Church and who have not to live handsomely without it in the state of Masters of Arts.”
An Englishman, William of Durham, who had enjoyed the hospitality of the University in Paris, was the first to ignite a lasting flame that many others would keep alive as a focus perennis for homeless students. After a conflict between the town and gown, he left Paris along with many French students, whom Henry III welcomed to Oxford in 1229. William went to Rome before returning to England and remembered Oxford when he was dying in Rouen—perhaps reminded of the city[Pg 86] that had been equal in ancient beauty until fifty years ago and had been overshadowed in a similar way. He left a sum of money in his will to the University, which was used to create more stable housing for Oxford students, such as a house that stood where the bookseller’s shop is located opposite University College lodge. This act is considered the foundation of University College, with its initial four masters, who are thought to be "most fit to advance or benefit the Holy Church and who should not live luxuriously without it in the state of Masters of Arts.”
There had previously been similar Halls, and many were afterwards founded,—Hawk Hall, Perilous Hall, Elm Hall, Winton Hall, Beef Hall, Greek Hall, Segrim Hall; in fact so large a number that half the Oxford inns are or were perversions of the old Halls; and even tradesmen who are not innkeepers now make their rich accounts among the ghosts of forgotten principals. These had not in them the necessary statutes and “great bases for eternity” which a college deserves. But henceforward there were some fortunate students who might indeed have to sing or make Latin verses in order to earn a bed, or a crust and a pot of ale, while making their way to or from Oxford; but, once there, they were sure of such a home as no other place, unless, perhaps, the place of their nativity, could give.
There had been similar Halls before, and many were established later—Hawk Hall, Perilous Hall, Elm Hall, Winton Hall, Beef Hall, Greek Hall, Segrim Hall; in fact, there were so many that half the inns in Oxford are or were variations of the old Halls. Even tradespeople who aren’t innkeepers now find their wealth among the ghosts of forgotten leaders. These didn’t have the necessary rules and “great foundations for eternity” that a college needs. But from now on, there were some lucky students who might have to sing or write Latin verses to earn a bed, or a bit of bread and a drink while traveling to or from Oxford; yet, once they arrived, they were guaranteed a home like no other place could offer, except maybe where they were born.

UNIVERSITY COLLEGE—PRIVATE GARDEN OF THE MASTER
UNIVERSITY COLLEGE—PRIVATE GARDEN OF THE MASTER
The building to the left is the east end of the College Chapel, the entrance tower being seen over the dividing wall almost in the centre of the picture.
The building on the left is the east end of the College Chapel, with the entrance tower visible over the dividing wall, almost at the center of the picture.
A bay window to the extreme right of the picture, looking over the garden, is part of the Master’s Lodging.
A bay window on the far right of the picture, looking out over the garden, is part of the Master’s Lodging.
altera Troja and simulata Pergama at the end of their journey and their place of temporary sojourn. Home is for the youth, who knows nothing of the world, and who would be forlorn and sad, if thrown upon it. It is the refuge of helpless boyhood, which would be famished and pine away if it were not maintained by others. It is the providential shelter of the weak and inexperienced who have still to learn how to cope with the temptations which lie outside of it. It is the place of training for those who are not only ignorant, but have not yet learned how to learn, and who have to be taught, by careful individual trial, how to set about profiting by the lessons of a teacher. And it is the school of elementary studies, not of advanced; for such studies alone can boys at best apprehend and master. Moreover, it is the shrine of our best affections, the bosom of our fondest recollections, a spell upon our after life, a stay for world-weary mind and soul, wherever we are cast, till the end comes. Such are the attributes or offices of home, and like to these in one or other sense and measure, are the attributes and offices of a College in a University.”
altera Troja and simulata Pergama at the end of their journey and their place of temporary stay. Home is for the young person, who knows nothing about the world and would feel lost and unhappy if thrown out into it. It is a safe space for helpless childhood, which would starve and fade away without the support of others. It provides shelter for the weak and inexperienced who still need to learn how to deal with the temptations that exist beyond it. Home is where those who are not only inexperienced but also don’t know how to learn get trained, and they have to be taught through personal experience how to benefit from a teacher's lessons. It is a place for basic education, not advanced; for only basic studies can boys truly understand and master. Moreover, it is a sanctuary for our deepest feelings, a home for our most cherished memories, a comfort for our weary minds and souls, wherever we may find ourselves, until the end comes. Such are the qualities and roles of home, and similar to these, in one way or another, are the qualities and roles of a College in a University.
In the unconscious preparation for such a place William of Durham was the first to leave money; the founders of Balliol the first to gather a number of scholars under one roof, with a corporate life, and as we may assume, a set of customary, unwritten laws; but Walter de Merton was the first to endow and provide with tenements and statutes a college, in all important respects, like a college of to-day,—a place even at that time standing in a genial avuncular relationship towards[Pg 92] the students, which was rich in influence and the making of endearing tradition. Perhaps the Merton treasury, still conspicuous for its steep roof and burliness, was part of the founder’s gift; and no building could have been a fitter nest of an idea which was for so long to make little of time. The Hall retains some features of the same date. Almost at once the chapel began to rise, and its light was coloured by the topmost glass just as it is to-day. In fact, Merton with its older little sister foundation of St. Alban Hall was, until the annus mirabilis of Mr. Butterfield, in itself a symbol of the origin and growth of Oxford as a collegiate university and as a place of beauty.
In the unintentional preparation for such a place, William of Durham was the first to contribute funds; the founders of Balliol were the first to bring together a group of scholars under one roof, creating a community life and, we can assume, a set of customary, unwritten rules. However, Walter de Merton was the first to establish and provide a college with properties and regulations that, in many ways, resembled a college today—a space that even back then had a welcoming, almost familial relationship with the students, rich in influence and the creation of lasting traditions. Perhaps the Merton treasury, still notable for its steep roof and solid structure, was part of the founder’s donation; no building could have been a better home for an idea that would defy time for so long. The Hall still shows some features from that era. Almost immediately, the chapel began to rise, its light tinted by the highest stained glass just as it is today. In fact, Merton, along with its older little sister, St. Alban Hall, was, until the remarkable year of Mr. Butterfield, a symbol of the origins and growth of Oxford as a collegiate university and a place of beauty.
The royal Dervorguilla was the godmother of the kindly college life of to-day. She was the wife of the founder of Balliol, and was often in Oxford, with her honoured Franciscan, Richard of Slikeburne, to look after her sixteen scholars at Old Balliol Hall, in Horsemonger Street, now Broad Street. Close by, at the Church of St. Mary Magdalen, she devised an oratory for the Balliol men. They chose their own Principal, who presided at disputations and meals. They had breakfast and supper together, and the more comfortable of them paid anything in excess of their allowance which the expenses of the common table might demand. One poor scholar lived on the crumbs. Thus were men less often compelled to borrow from the Jews at 60 per cent on the security of their books.
The royal Dervorguilla was the godmother of today’s kind college life. She was the wife of the founder of Balliol and often visited Oxford with her respected Franciscan, Richard of Slikeburne, to take care of her sixteen scholars at Old Balliol Hall on Horsemonger Street, now Broad Street. Nearby, at the Church of St. Mary Magdalen, she set up a small prayer space for the Balliol men. They chose their own Principal, who led discussions and meals. They had breakfast and supper together, and the more fortunate among them contributed any extra they had beyond their allowance to cover the costs of the common table. One poor scholar survived on the leftovers. This way, men were less often forced to borrow from the Jews at 60 percent interest against the value of their books.

MERTON COLLEGE AND ST. ALBAN’S HALL
MERTON COLLEGE AND ST. ALBAN’S HALL
The entrance Quadrangle of the College is shown in the picture, to the right of which is the Warden’s residence.
The entrance courtyard of the College is shown in the picture, and to the right is the Warden's residence.
The building farther to the right is the Library, the steps of which show in the immediate foreground.
The building further to the right is the Library, and its steps can be seen in the foreground.
St. Alban’s Hall, recently attached to Merton College, appears over the north-east corner of the Quadrangle.
St. Alban’s Hall, which has recently been added to Merton College, is located at the northeast corner of the Quadrangle.
the spire of the church of St. Mary the Virgin first rose against the sky. Then also the ashes of St. Frideswide were promoted to a new and more precious place of rest. The sculptor at work upon the shrine had evidently at his side the leaves of maple and crowfoot and columbine, ivy and sycamore and oak, hawthorn and bryony, from the neighbouring woods, where the saint had lain in hiding or ministered to the calamities of the poor; and perhaps the season was late autumn, for among the oak leaves are acorns, and some of the cups are empty. All these things he carved on the base of the shrine.
the spire of St. Mary the Virgin Church first rose against the sky. Then, the ashes of St. Frideswide were moved to a new and more honored resting place. The sculptor working on the shrine clearly had at his side the leaves of maple, crowfoot, columbine, ivy, sycamore, oak, hawthorn, and bryony from the nearby woods where the saint had hidden or helped the needy; and it might have been late autumn, since there are acorns among the oak leaves, and some of the cups are empty. He carved all these elements on the base of the shrine.
It was of this period that the story was told that two barefooted, hungry travellers from the west were approaching Oxford, and had come in sight of it near Cumnor, when they found a beautiful woman seated by the wayside. So beautiful was she that they knelt at her feet, “being simple men.” Salve Regina! they cried. Then, she bending forward and speaking, they were first surprised that she should speak to them; and next ventured to speak to her, and ask her name. Whereat she “raised her small golden head so that in the sun her hair seemed to flow and flow continually down,” and looked towards Oxford. There two spires and two towers could just be seen betwixt the oak trees. “My name,” she said, “is known to all men save you. It is Pulchritudo. And that,” as she pointed to the shining stones of the city, “is my home.” Those two were silent, between amazement and joy, until one said “It is our Lady!” and the other “Lo! it is Venus, and[Pg 98] she sits upon many waters yonder.” Hardly had they resumed their ordinary pace when they found an old man, seated by the wayside, very white and yet “very pleasant and alluring to behold.” So to him also the simple wayfarers knelt down. Then that old man bent forward and spoke to them with golden words, and only the one who had called the beautiful woman “Venus” dared to speak. He it was that questioned the old man about the woman and about himself. “My name is Sapientia,” he said, and “that is my home,” he continued, and looked towards Oxford, where two spires and two towers could just be seen betwixt the oak trees. “And,” he concluded solemnly, “that woman is my mother and she grows not old.” The men went their way, one saying, “It is a place of lies”; the other saying, “It is wonderful”; and when they looked back the old man and the beautiful woman had vanished. In the city they were often seen, but the two strangers could not speak with them, “for they were greatest in the city of Oxford. Some said that he was an Austin friar and she a light woman; but they are not to be believed.” And when they had dwelt in Oxford a short time and had seen “what store of pious and learned and illuminated books were in the Halls, and what costly and fine things in its churches and Convents,” the one said, “I believe that what Sapientia and Pulchritudo said was the truth”; and the other said, “Truly, the city is worthy of them both”; wherefore they dwelt there until their deaths, and found it “the most loving and lovely city” in Christendom.[Pg 100][Pg 99]
It was during this time that a story was told about two barefoot, hungry travelers from the west who were approaching Oxford and came into view near Cumnor, where they spotted a beautiful woman sitting by the roadside. She was so stunning that they knelt at her feet, being just simple men. “Salve Regina!” they cried. When she leaned forward to speak, they were first shocked that she would talk to them, and then they dared to ask her name. At that, she “raised her small golden head so that in the sun her hair seemed to flow endlessly,” and looked toward Oxford. There, between the oak trees, they could just make out two spires and two towers. “My name,” she said, “is known to everyone except you. It's Pulchritudo. And that,” she pointed to the shining stones of the city, “is my home.” The two men fell silent, caught between amazement and joy, until one exclaimed, “It’s our Lady!” and the other said, “Look! It’s Venus, and[Pg 98] she sits upon many waters over there.” Barely had they resumed their normal pace when they encountered an old man sitting by the roadside, very pale yet “very pleasant and alluring to behold.” Again, the simple travelers knelt down. The old man then leaned forward and spoke to them with golden words, and only the one who had referred to the beautiful woman as “Venus” dared to ask questions. He inquired about the woman and the old man himself. “My name is Sapientia,” he replied, and “that is my home,” he continued, gesturing toward Oxford, where two spires and two towers could just be seen between the oak trees. “And,” he concluded solemnly, “that woman is my mother, and she does not grow old.” As the men continued on their way, one remarked, “It’s a place of lies,” while the other said, “It’s wonderful.” When they looked back, the old man and the beautiful woman had disappeared. In the city, they were often seen, but the two strangers could not speak to them, “for they were the most important figures in the city of Oxford. Some claimed he was an Austin friar and she was a loose woman; but they shouldn’t be believed.” After spending a short time in Oxford and seeing “the abundance of pious and learned illuminated books in the Halls, and the costly and beautiful things in its churches and convents,” one said, “I believe what Sapientia and Pulchritudo said was true”; and the other said, “Truly, the city is worthy of them both.” Therefore, they stayed there until their deaths, finding it “the most loving and lovely city” in Christendom.[Pg 100][Pg 99]

ORIEL COLLEGE
ORIEL COLLEGE
The Hall and Chapel stretch across the picture, in the centre of which appears the porch. The three niches contain figures of the Virgin and Child and Edward II. and III. under canopies.
The Hall and Chapel extend across the image, with the porch positioned in the center. The three niches feature statues of the Virgin and Child, as well as Edward II and III, all under canopies.
The tower of Merton College shows above the roof of the Chapel. This, with the louvres and ogee gables, forms a picturesque sky-line.
The tower of Merton College rises above the roof of the Chapel. This, along with the louvres and ogee gables, creates a charming skyline.
Dervorguilla and Walter de Merton had thus made the University a father and a mother to the scholar. For a time, indeed, the principals had often to transfer their penates; the founder’s inheritors lived in scattered tenements which they changed from necessity or choice, now and then; yet they had the imperishable sentiment of home, and for some years they had little more, except in a small degree at Merton and Queen’s, since the colleges neither demanded nor provided that the scholars should study according to rule.
Dervorguilla and Walter de Merton had made the University a home for the scholar. For a while, the leaders often had to move their penates; the founder’s heirs lived in different places that they changed out of necessity or preference from time to time; still, they had a lasting feeling of home, and for a few years, that was about all they had, aside from a bit at Merton and Queen’s, since the colleges didn’t require or offer any specific guidelines for the scholars' studies.
Under Edward II. Exeter College was founded, and linked from the beginning with the west country, by the simultaneous co-foundation of a school, and the rule that all the scholars should thence be drawn. Decent poverty and love of learning were the other qualifications of a scholar. Then followed Oriel, with Edward II. as its founder, the advowson of the Church of St. Mary the Virgin as part of its support, and its name derived from the Hall of La Oriole, which it received early, and soon afterwards occupied. Its library was the first college library; but the acquirement was technically defective, and the Fellows of Oriel could not resist the students who broke in and carried away the books. Fellows and admirers repaired the loss.
Under Edward II, Exeter College was established and was connected from the start with the west country through the simultaneous founding of a school, with the rule that all the students should come from there. Modest means and a passion for learning were the other requirements for a scholar. Next came Oriel, also founded by Edward II, which received support from the patronage of St. Mary the Virgin Church, and its name originated from the Hall of La Oriole, which it acquired early on and soon inhabited. Its library was the first college library; however, its establishment was technically flawed, and the Fellows of Oriel were unable to stop the students who broke in and took the books. The Fellows and supporters made efforts to replace the lost items.
Philippa, Queen of Edward III., was joined with her chaplain in the foundation of Queen’s College “for the cultivation of Theology, to the glory of God, the advance of the Church, and the salvation of souls.” A little subtlety on the part of the founder and sentiment on the part of the queens, enabled the college to[Pg 104] exchange compliments with Anne of Bohemia, Henrietta Maria, Charlotte and Adelaide. The founder was a Cumberland man, and his college attracted a neighbour or a man who spoke with his accent or had the same traditions to become one of the fellows, equal in number with Christ and His apostles. Before and after the beginning of colleges, men from the same district made a small “new Scotland” or “new France” in Oxford streets. Thus the scholars of St. George’s and Oriel were for some time largely Welsh; at Balliol and University College there were many northerners. At all times these divisions were emphasised by conflicts with tongue and arrow and sword. Scholars overlooked their Aristotle at bloody arguments in Grove Street and Cornmarket, between North and South, Irish and Welsh and Scotch, in combinations that varied unaccountably or according to the politics of the day. You might know a scholar, as an ancient tinker remarked the other day, remembering the boxing booths of his youth, by the way he fought. The election of a chancellor, or a church wake, and an exchange of lusty oaths between men of two parties were the occasion. In later years Realists and Nominalists,—Orthodox and Wycliffites,—now and then reduced their disagreement to simple terms. Nor were the citizens with difficulty persuaded to take or make a side in the disputes, whether they encountered the scholars at inns, or as they stood on market-days,—the sellers of hay and faggots and hogs, stretching in their regular places from the East gate, in front of St. Mary’s and All Saints’, to Carfax and the[Pg 106][Pg 105]
Philippa, Queen of Edward III, partnered with her chaplain to establish Queen’s College “for the study of Theology, to glorify God, advance the Church, and save souls.” A little cleverness from the founder and sentiment from the queens allowed the college to[Pg 104] exchange pleasantries with Anne of Bohemia, Henrietta Maria, Charlotte, and Adelaide. The founder was from Cumberland, and his college attracted locals or those who spoke with his accent or shared his traditions to become fellows, equal in number to Christ and His apostles. Before and after colleges were formed, men from the same area created a small “new Scotland” or “new France” along the streets of Oxford. Thus, the scholars of St. George’s and Oriel were largely Welsh for some time; Balliol and University College had many northerners. These divisions were often highlighted by conflicts involving words, arrows, and swords. Scholars ignored their studies to engage in bloody arguments on Grove Street and Cornmarket, between North and South, Irish, Welsh, and Scots, in changing alliances based on the political climate of the time. You could recognize a scholar, as an old tinker recently noted, reminiscent of the boxing booths of his youth, by how he fought. The election of a chancellor or a church wake could spark lively exchanges of oaths between rival factions. In later years, Realists and Nominalists—Orthodox and Wycliffites—periodically simplified their disagreements. The citizens were also quick to take sides in these disputes, whether they encountered scholars at inns or while standing on market days—the sellers of hay, kindling, and pigs, lined up in their usual spots from the East gate, in front of St. Mary’s and All Saints’, to Carfax and the[Pg 106][Pg 105]

GROVE STREET
Grove St.
This narrow street runs from the High Street opposite St. Mary’s Church alongside St. Mary’s Hall and Oriel College, emerging near to Merton, part of the tower of which College appears.
This narrow street goes from the High Street across from St. Mary’s Church, passing next to St. Mary’s Hall and Oriel College, and ends up near Merton, where part of the college's tower is visible.
It contains some picturesque half-timbered buildings, some of which are shown in the picture.
It features some charming half-timbered buildings, a few of which are shown in the picture.
Cross Inn. Once, a northern chaplain, “with other malefactors,” embattled themselves and sought out the Welshmen with bent bows, crying to the “Welsh dogs and their whelps” that an Owen or a Meredydd who looked out at his door was a dead man. The Welshmen were driven out of the city with ignominy and blood. The Northeners robbed and murdered indiscriminately, and destroyed not only books but harps, until, finding an ale-house, they were incontinently appeased. On another occasion some townsmen burst in, on a Sunday, upon a few scholars, wounding and despoiling them. The scholars spread their story and collected friends. The townsmen responded to the sound of horns and St. Martin’s bell. Countrymen from Hinksey and Headington came to the help of the unlearned. The air whistled and hummed with the flight of arrows and stones; the streets were crimsoned. But the reverend gentleman who led the learned was untimely shot down, and his cause evaporated. Some scholars fled to the country, some to sanctuary, and were comforted by the excommunication and fining of their opponents. After a similar fight the University was allowed that exemption from the city courts which it still enjoys. In fact, the disturbances earned very cheaply for the University concessions which put the citizens at a disadvantage, and emphasised distinctions, so as to cause other disturbances in turn. Henry V., himself a Queen’s College man, at last interfered with an order that scholars would only be treated as such if they were under the rule of an approved head. It was an[Pg 110] attempt to banish the wild errant scholars, often Irishmen, and to make a common type of Chaucer’s Clerk of Oxenford, who had been to Padua and knew Petrarch’s verse. He was one who, even in his devotion to books, did not forget the souls of his benefactors, for which he was, in the first instance, endowed to pray—
Cross Inn. Once, a northern chaplain, along with other wrongdoers, confronted the Welshmen with drawn bows, shouting at the “Welsh dogs and their pups” that any Owen or Meredydd spotted at their door would be a dead man. The Welshmen were disgracefully forced out of the city, suffering injuries. The Northerners robbed and killed indiscriminately, destroying not only books but also harps, until they found a pub and were quickly satisfied. On another occasion, some townspeople burst in on a Sunday and attacked a few scholars, injuring and robbing them. The scholars shared their story and gathered allies. The townspeople responded to the sound of horns and St. Martin’s bell. Countrymen from Hinksey and Headington came to support the uneducated. The air was filled with the whistling of arrows and stones; the streets were stained with blood. But the respected gentleman leading the scholars was sadly shot down, causing their cause to fade away. Some scholars fled to the countryside, while others sought refuge in churches and found comfort in the excommunication and fines imposed on their attackers. After a similar conflict, the University was granted exemption from the city courts, a privilege it still enjoys today. In fact, these disturbances earned the University concessions that disadvantaged the citizens and highlighted divisions, leading to further unrest. Henry V., himself a Queen’s College graduate, eventually intervened with an order stating that scholars would only be recognized as such if they were under the authority of an approved head. It was an[Pg 110] attempt to rid the institution of unruly wandering scholars, often Irishmen, and to create a common type of Chaucer’s Clerk of Oxenford, who had studied in Padua and knew Petrarch’s verses. He was someone who, even in his dedication to books, did not neglect the souls of his benefactors, for whom he was initially endowed to pray—
But look closely, and do so thoughtfully; His overused courtesy was completely threadbare; For he had not yet obtained any benefice,
He was too worldly to hold an office; For him was better to have at his bedside Twenty books bound in black or red. Of Aristotle and his philosophy, Than the rich robes, or the fiddle, or the fine lute; But even though he was a philosopher,
Yet he had only a little gold in his chest; But all that he could get from his friends He spent it on books and his learning,
And they began to pray for the souls eagerly. Of him who gave him what he needed to brag. He took the most care and attention to his studies,
He didn't say a word more than was necessary,
And that was said with formality and respect,
And short, quick, and full of high sentences.
His speech resonated with moral virtue, And he would gladly learn and gladly teach.
But William of Wykeham, before that time, had given to New College a code of ornate and intricate rules for morals and manners, which became a legacy to the University at large; and in the first place checked the savage liberties of scholars; in the second, helped to make learning more “humane,” to make the “Arts” the “humanities.” He built a chapel for the exclusive use of the scholars of his foundation. That in itself[Pg 112][Pg 111]
But William of Wykeham had earlier given New College a set of detailed and elaborate rules for behavior and ethics, which became a legacy for the entire University. These rules first restrained the unruly freedoms of students and secondly helped make education more "humane," transforming the "Arts" into the "humanities." He constructed a chapel specifically for the scholars of his foundation. That alone[Pg 112][Pg 111]

NEW COLLEGE
NEW COLLEGE
William of Wykeham (1404) built the noble tower which stands free to the extreme right of the picture. A portion of the chapel is seen to the left of the tower, and forms, with it and the trees, a noble group.
William of Wykeham (1404) built the impressive tower that stands alone on the far right of the image. A section of the chapel is visible to the left of the tower and together with it and the trees, creates a magnificent scene.
The new retaining walls in the foreground are part of a recent addition to the College.
The new retaining walls in the foreground are part of a recent addition to the college.
was an inestimable addition to the golden chain by which Oxford holds the memories of men. To the chapel they were to go every day, and there to say their Paters and Aves. Its Latin—the fittest language to be uttered amidst old architecture—and its coloured windows alone are not to-day as they were in Wykeham’s time. He built the bell-tower and the cloisters, and so gave to generations a pleasant vision, and—when dreams are on the wing—a starting-place or an eyrie for dreams. He built also a kitchen, a brewery, and a bakehouse. He stocked both a garden and a library for college use. Long before the “first tutor of the first college of the first University of the world” entered Oxford with post horses to assert his position, the Warden of New College had the use of six horses. He wore an ermine amice in chapel. He had his own palace apart. But the humblest member of the foundation had been as minutely provided for by Wykeham’s code. Above all, the scholar was not to be left to himself in his studies, but to the care of an appointed tutor. And in 1387 the new college proceeded to William of Wykeham’s quadrangle, with singing and pomp. It was the first home of scholars in Oxford, which was completely and specially fashioned for their use alone, to be
was an invaluable addition to the golden chain that connects Oxford with the memories of people. They were to go to the chapel every day and there say their Paters and Aves. Its Latin—the most fitting language to be spoken amidst ancient architecture—and its stained glass windows are not the same today as they were in Wykeham’s time. He built the bell tower and the cloisters, providing generations with a beautiful vision, and—when dreams are soaring—a place to start or a nest for those dreams. He also constructed a kitchen, a brewery, and a bakehouse. He established both a garden and a library for the college. Long before the “first tutor of the first college of the first University of the world” arrived in Oxford with post horses to claim his position, the Warden of New College had access to six horses. He wore an ermine amice in chapel. He had his own separate palace. But even the humblest member of the foundation was carefully taken care of under Wykeham’s rules. Most importantly, scholars were not to be left alone in their studies, but were to receive guidance from an appointed tutor. And in 1387, the new college made its way to William of Wykeham’s quadrangle, with singing and celebration. It was the first home of scholars in Oxford, designed entirely and specifically for their exclusive use, to be
A place filled with good things from the past!
In the next century the ideas of Walter de Merton and Dervorguilla and William of Wykeham were borrowed and developed by loving founders, architects,[Pg 116] and benefactors. The building of Lincoln College, next founded, was begun as soon as its charter was received; a chapel and a library, a hall and a kitchen, and chambers on three storys, finely and nobly built, were a matter of course. In the same way, All Souls’ front quadrangle, practically as we see it to-day, was built at once by Archbishop Chichele, the founder; and at Magdalen, which was next founded, the tower began to rise on the extreme east of the city, to salute the rising sun with its pinnacles, and on May morning, with a song of choristers.
In the next century, the ideas of Walter de Merton, Dervorguilla, and William of Wykeham were embraced and expanded by dedicated founders, architects,[Pg 116] and supporters. Construction on Lincoln College began as soon as its charter was granted; its chapel, library, hall, kitchen, and three stories of elegantly built chambers were all standard features. Similarly, the front quadrangle of All Souls’, largely as we see it today, was built right away by Archbishop Chichele, the founder; and at Magdalen, which was founded next, the tower started to rise in the far east of the city, greeting the rising sun with its spires, and on May morning, with a choir's song.
For Oxford, the fifteenth century was an age of libraries and books. Looking back upon it, Duke Humphrey of Gloucester seems its patron saint,—donor of books to the Benedictines who lived on the site of Worcester College, and to the University,—harbinger of the Bodleian. We can still catch the savour of the old libraries at Merton where the light coloured by painted glass used to inlay the gloom under the wooden roof, or behind the quiet latticed windows above the cloisters at Christ Church. “What pleasantness of teaching there is in books, how easy, how secret,” says Richard de Bury, Bishop of Durham, an old Oxford man, and the giver of the first library to Oxford. “They are masters who instruct us without rod or ferule, without angry words, without clothes or money. If you come to them, they are not asleep; if you ask and inquire of them, they do not withdraw themselves; they do not chide if you make mistakes; they do not laugh at you if you are ignorant. O[Pg 118][Pg 117]
For Oxford, the 15th century was a time of libraries and books. Looking back, Duke Humphrey of Gloucester appears to be its patron saint—donating books to the Benedictines at the site of Worcester College and to the University—ushering in the Bodleian. We can still sense the atmosphere of the old libraries at Merton, where the light filtered through stained glass illuminated the dimness under the wooden roof, or through the quiet latticed windows above the cloisters at Christ Church. “What joy there is in learning from books, how simple and private,” says Richard de Bury, Bishop of Durham, an old Oxford man, and the donor of the first library to Oxford. “They are teachers who guide us without punishment or harshness, without anger, clothing, or money. When you approach them, they are awake; if you ask them questions, they don’t pull away; they don’t scold you for errors; they won’t mock you for being uninformed. O[Pg 118][Pg 117]

INTERIOR OF THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY
INSIDE THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY
The portion of the Library shown in the picture is a storey built above the Divinity School by Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, son of Henry IV., and the spectator is looking east towards the wing added by Sir Thomas Bodley at the close of the sixteenth century.
The part of the Library shown in the picture is a floor built above the Divinity School by Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, son of Henry IV. The viewer is looking east towards the wing added by Sir Thomas Bodley at the end of the sixteenth century.
Books cover every available inch of wall space, but the trusses of the old timbered roof are visible, as are also the more modern galleries, supported by wooden columns. These are for obtaining access to books placed high in the Library. The strands of light which bar the centre aisle are from the south windows of the building, overlooking the Fellows’ Garden of Exeter College. The windows also serve to light the “studies,” the latticed and balustered doors of which may be seen standing open at intervals (see illustration of one of these “studies”).
Books fill every inch of wall space, but the beams of the old timber roof are visible, along with the newer galleries supported by wooden columns. These provide access to books that are placed high up in the Library. The shafts of light that cross the center aisle come from the south windows of the building, which overlook the Fellows’ Garden of Exeter College. The windows also illuminate the “studies,” whose latticed and balustered doors can be seen standing open at various points (see illustration of one of these “studies”).
The cases in the immediate foreground are used for modern books.
The cases in the front are used for modern books.
books, who alone are liberal and free, who give to all who ask of you and enfranchise all who serve you faithfully! by how many types ye are commended to learned men in the Scriptures given us by the inspiration of God!... Ye are the wells of living waters, which father Abraham first digged, Isaac digged again, and which the Philistines strive to fill up!...” Bury was a friend of Petrarch and Bradwardine, a Chancellor and Treasurer of England, and his love of books became so famous that he was reported “to burn with such a desire for books and especially old ones that it was more easy for any man to gain our favour by means of books than of money. The aumbries of the most famous monasteries were thrown open, cases were unlocked and caskets were undone, and volumes that had slumbered through long ages in their tombs wake up and are astonished.” The great discoverer’s pleasure at the university of Paris corresponds to that of visitors to Oxford in later years. “There,” he says, “are delightful libraries, more aromatic than stores of spicery; there are luxuriant parks of all manner of volumes; there are Academic meads shaken by the tramp of scholars; there are lounges of Athens; walks of the Peripatetics; peaks of Parnassus; and porches of the Stoics. There is seen the surveyor of all Arts and Sciences, Aristotle, to whom belongs all that is most excellent in doctrine, so far as relates to this passing sublunary world; there Ptolemy measures epicycles and eccentric apogees and the nodes of the planets by figures and numbers; there Paul reveals the[Pg 122] mysteries.” And to complete the resemblance of Oxford to such a place, he gave all his books to “our hall at Oxford,” where the masters and scholars were to pray for his soul. The fate of his collection may have been worthy, but is mysterious. It is said to have been divided, and part of it perhaps went to Balliol. It could have found no more honourable abode than the Balliol library. From the beginning gifts of books had come in, but chiefly what was even then old-fashioned, until the middle of the fifteenth century. It was the period when Guarino at Ferrara was an inspiration to Europe. Robert Fleming was one of his pupils, and sent beautiful manuscripts to Lincoln College library; and at Lincoln books flowed in before cash. Three others of Guarino’s pupils were Balliol men: Gray, Bishop of Ely and Chancellor of the University, whose books were collected with Guarino’s help, and passed, the finest of their day, to Balliol at his death; Free, public reader of physic at Ferrara, a great benefactor of libraries, and a historian of trees and plants; and Tiptoft, Earl of Worcester, splendid, eloquent, cruel; who had made golden speeches to the Pope, the Cardinals, the men of Padua; had translated Cicero; and on his return, adorned England with his learning and patronage, and shocked it with the refined cruelties of Italy. His collection of manuscripts went with Duke Humphrey’s to the University library, where a room was made for them, over the quiet Divinity School then being built between St. Mary’s and Durham Hall. Tiptoft was the most striking type of[Pg 124][Pg 123]
books, who are genuinely free and open-minded, giving generously to anyone who asks and empowering all who serve you faithfully! Just think of how many ways you are praised by scholars in the Scriptures inspired by God!... You are the sources of living water that Father Abraham first dug, which Isaac reopened, and which the Philistines try to fill in!... Bury was a friend of Petrarch and Bradwardine, a Chancellor and Treasurer of England, and his love for books became so famous that it was said he “burned with such a desire for books, especially old ones, that it was easier for anyone to win our favor through books than through money. The storerooms of the most renowned monasteries were opened, cases were unlocked, and chests were unfastened, causing volumes that had slept for ages in their tombs to awaken in astonishment.” The great discoverer’s joy at the University of Paris mirrors that of future visitors to Oxford. “There,” he states, “are delightful libraries, more fragrant than spice shops; lush gardens filled with every kind of volume; academic fields stirred by the footsteps of scholars; the lounges of Athens; paths of the Peripatetics; summits of Parnassus; and porches of the Stoics. You can see Aristotle, the overseer of all Arts and Sciences, who embodies everything excellent in teaching related to this transient world; there, Ptolemy measures epicycles, eccentric apogees, and planetary nodes through figures and numbers; there, Paul unravels the mysteries.” To mirror Oxford’s resemblance to such a place, he donated all his books to “our hall at Oxford,” where the masters and scholars were to pray for his soul. The fate of his collection remains mysterious, but it is said to have been split, with part possibly going to Balliol. It could not have found a more prestigious home than the Balliol library. From the start, book donations arrived, though mostly what was considered outdated even then, until the mid-fifteenth century. This was the time when Guarino in Ferrara inspired Europe. Robert Fleming was one of his students, sending beautiful manuscripts to Lincoln College library, where books arrived before cash. Three other pupils of Guarino were from Balliol: Gray, Bishop of Ely and Chancellor of the University, whose books were collected with Guarino’s assistance and became the finest of their time at Balliol upon his death; Free, who publicly lectured on medicine at Ferrara, greatly benefitted libraries, and was an historian of trees and plants; and Tiptoft, Earl of Worcester, who was splendid, articulate, and fierce; he had given grand speeches to the Pope, the Cardinals, and the scholars of Padua; translated Cicero; and upon returning, enriched England with his knowledge and support, while shocking it with the sophisticated cruelties of Italy. His manuscript collection was sent with Duke Humphrey’s to the University library, where a room was created for them above the peaceful Divinity School that was being constructed between St. Mary’s and Durham Hall. Tiptoft was the most remarkable example of

INTERIOR OF THE LIBRARY, ALL SOULS’ COLLEGE
INTERIOR OF THE LIBRARY, ALL SOULS’ COLLEGE
At the extreme east end of the Library is a seated marble figure of Sir William Blackstone, by Bacon, the standing figure on the north side in the recess being that of Sir Christopher Codrington, the Founder of the Library, by Sir Henry Cheere.
At the far east end of the Library is a seated marble statue of Sir William Blackstone, created by Bacon. The standing statue on the north side in the recess is of Sir Christopher Codrington, the Founder of the Library, made by Sir Henry Cheere.
Behind the statue is placed a case containing ancient articles discovered in excavations on the site of the College.
Behind the statue is a display case holding ancient artifacts found during excavations at the College site.
Book-rests and chairs for students are placed at intervals in the Library, which is nearly 200 feet long by over 30 feet wide.
Bookrests and chairs for students are positioned at various spots in the Library, which is almost 200 feet long and over 30 feet wide.
Bronze busts of Fellows alternate with vases on the cornice of the upper bookcases.
Bronze busts of Fellows are interspersed with vases along the top edge of the upper bookcases.
The colour of this Library is especially suited to its purpose, being quiet and restful to the eye; the proportions are excellent, and help the dignity of the room.
The color of this library is especially well-suited to its purpose, being calm and pleasing to the eye; the proportions are excellent and enhance the dignity of the room.
the Renaissance, of English blood. But it was the Italian Renaissance; and after his death the direct influence of Italy was small in Oxford.
the Renaissance, of English blood. But it was the Italian Renaissance; and after his death, the direct influence of Italy was minimal in Oxford.
It was, however, an Italian, Vitelli, who uttered the first words of Greek in Oxford. Plato was soon to enjoy a new life there, and to be woven into the past of Oxford, as if he had really been of its children. It comes et paribus curis vestigia figit. It was an age of great, unpopular men who came and went suddenly and obscurely in Oxford, like the first lecturers of the twelfth century. They were divinely inflated with the beauty of Greek—a language always more strange and exotic and fascinating to Englishmen than Latin—and with admiration of the restorers of that beauty, Chrysoloras, Chalcondila, Politian. Grocyn, a Magdalen man, fresh from Italy, taught Greek in the hall of Exeter. Linacre, a great physician and Grecian, was Fellow of All Souls’. The refined, persuasive Colet, whose “sacred fury” in argument Erasmus praised, was also a Magdalen man, and founder of St. Paul’s school. Sir Thomas More, the most perfect, but unhappily not the most influential type of the English Renaissance, was at St. Mary Hall. Erasmus met them all in Oxford, within that old gateway of St. Mary’s College in New Inn Hall Street. As they stepped out after the symposium, one pointed to a planet in the sky:
It was an Italian named Vitelli who spoke the first Greek words in Oxford. Plato was soon to have a renewed presence there and would blend into Oxford's history as if he were truly one of its own. It comes et paribus curis vestigia figit. It was a time of great, often overlooked men who arrived and disappeared in Oxford, much like the first lecturers of the twelfth century. They were inspired by the beauty of Greek—a language that was always more intriguing and exotic to the English than Latin—and admired the revivers of that beauty, like Chrysoloras, Chalcondila, and Politian. Grocyn, a man from Magdalen who had just returned from Italy, taught Greek in the hall of Exeter. Linacre, a prominent physician and scholar of Greek, was a Fellow of All Souls’. The refined and persuasive Colet, whose “sacred fury” in debate was praised by Erasmus, was also from Magdalen and was the founder of St. Paul’s school. Sir Thomas More, the most ideal, but unfortunately not the most influential example of the English Renaissance, was at St. Mary Hall. Erasmus encountered them all in Oxford, at the historic gateway of St. Mary’s College on New Inn Hall Street. As they stepped out after the symposium, one of them pointed to a planet in the sky:
“See how Jupiter shines; it is an omen,” said he.
“Look how Jupiter shines; it's a sign,” he said.
“Yes,” said another, “and we have been listening to Apollo.”
“Yes,” said another, “and we’ve been listening to Apollo.”
For a time the Grecians were ridiculed and attacked[Pg 128] in the streets by men who called themselves Priam, Hector, and Paris, and behaved—like Trojans. In that first enthusiasm men seemed very near to the inaccessible gods. Perhaps some were disposed to follow Pico della Mirandola in pursuit of them. There was therefore a party which opposed the study of Greek as heretical; and More was withdrawn from Oxford to avoid the danger.
For a while, the Greeks were mocked and attacked[Pg 128] in the streets by guys who called themselves Priam, Hector, and Paris, acting just like Trojans. In that initial excitement, people felt very close to the unreachable gods. Maybe some were inclined to join Pico della Mirandola in their quest for them. Consequently, there was a faction that opposed the study of Greek as heretical; and More left Oxford to stay away from the risk.
From the beautiful Magdalen cloisters came the men who launched Corpus Christi College, just after Erasmus had published the New Testament in Greek and the ancient Brasenose Hall had at last grown into a college. The founder gave copies of Homer, Herodotus, Plato, and Horace, which still survive. There was a public lecturer in Greek on the foundation. Erasmus himself applauded and prophesied liberally of its future. It was the “new college” of the Renaissance, as Wykeham’s had been of the Middle Ages. The readers were to be chosen from England or Greece or Italy. And among the first members of the college was the mystical Bavarian dialler, Nicholas Kratzer, who made a dial in Corpus garden, and that exquisite one for Wolsey, which is to be seen, in drawing, in the library. Wolsey’s own college was built over against St. Frideswide’s, part of which, together with one side of its cloisters, was destroyed to give it place. It contained the largest quadrangle and the most princely kitchen in Oxford. When Henry the Eighth spoiled the monasteries, the bells of Osney were carried to Christ Church; and one of them, over Wolsey’s gateway, does what it can to[Pg 130][Pg 129]
From the beautiful Magdalen cloisters came the men who established Corpus Christi College, right after Erasmus published the New Testament in Greek and the old Brasenose Hall finally evolved into a college. The founder gifted copies of Homer, Herodotus, Plato, and Horace, which still exist today. There was a public Greek lecturer on the foundation. Erasmus himself praised it and made bold predictions about its future. It was the “new college” of the Renaissance, just as Wykeham’s was in the Middle Ages. The scholars were to be selected from England, Greece, or Italy. Among the first members of the college was the mystical Bavarian astronomer, Nicholas Kratzer, who created a sundial in the Corpus garden, along with that beautiful one for Wolsey, which can be seen in a drawing in the library. Wolsey’s own college was built across from St. Frideswide’s, part of which, along with one side of its cloisters, was destroyed to make way for it. It had the largest quadrangle and the most impressive kitchen in Oxford. When Henry the Eighth dissolved the monasteries, the bells from Osney were brought to Christ Church; and one of them, above Wolsey’s gateway, does what it can to[Pg 130][Pg 129]

THE CLOISTERS, MAGDALEN COLLEGE
The Cloisters, Magdalen College
The Hall and Chapel of the College stretch nearly across the picture immediately in front of the spectator, the oriel window which lights the daïs of the Hall marking the division between the west end of the Hall and the east end of the Chapel.
The Hall and Chapel of the College extend almost all the way across the view right in front of the audience, with the oriel window that illuminates the daïs of the Hall indicating the boundary between the west end of the Hall and the east end of the Chapel.
Farther west, and closely adjoining the Chapel, at the south-west angle of the Cloisters, rises the Founder’s Tower. A gateway under the Tower leads to the Quadrangle of St. John the Baptist and the entrance to the College.
Farther west, right next to the Chapel, at the southwest corner of the Cloisters, stands the Founder’s Tower. A gateway beneath the Tower leads to the Quadrangle of St. John the Baptist and the entrance to the College.
The figures above the buttresses of the Cloisters were probably not designed for their present position, but add to the picturesqueness of the Cloisters, which, it will be observed, project from the main body of the buildings.
The figures above the buttresses of the Cloisters were likely not intended for their current location, but they enhance the charm of the Cloisters, which, as you can see, extend from the main part of the buildings.
Above the gleaming roof of the Chapel appears the beautiful bell tower of the College, detached, and built at a different angle from the Hall and Chapel, which are continued in the same line. The tower is 145 feet high, and was completed about 1505.
Above the shiny roof of the Chapel stands the beautiful bell tower of the College, separate from and at a different angle than the Hall and Chapel, which are aligned in the same direction. The tower is 145 feet tall and was finished around 1505.
Men in Masters’ gowns walk and converse on the grass.
Men in master's gowns walk and chat on the grass.
The time is late afternoon.
It's late afternoon.
call the undergraduates home at nine, with a deep voice, as if it spoke through its beard, which pretends to be B flat—“Bim-bom,” as the old leonine hexameter says.
call the undergraduates home at nine, with a deep voice, as if it spoke through its beard, which pretends to be B flat—“Bim-bom,” as the old leonine hexameter says.
They sound so incredibly great, so incredibly sweet,
As they trawl so happily, happily. Oh! the first and second bell,
That every day, at four and ten, shout, “Come, come, come to prayer!”
And the verger stands in front of the Dean.
Tinkle, tinkle, ting, goes the little bell at nine,
To bring the bearers home:
But the devil a guy Will leave his can Until he hears the powerful Tom.
So runs the catch of a later Dean. At Christ Church also there was a lecturer in Greek. The dialler, Kratzer, was made mathematical professor. Wolsey’s chapel never rose above a few feet in height, and the uncompleted walls remained for a century; St. Frideswide’s became, almost at the same time, the cathedral of the newly-created see of Oxford, and the chapel of the college.
So goes the story of a later Dean. At Christ Church, there was also a lecturer in Greek. The dialler, Kratzer, was appointed as a math professor. Wolsey’s chapel never got higher than a few feet, and the unfinished walls stood for a century; St. Frideswide’s became, around the same time, the cathedral of the new diocese of Oxford and the chapel of the college.
The grandiose Christ Church kitchen, which caused so much laughter because it was the Cardinal’s first contribution to his college, was in fact rather characteristic of the age that followed. It was built with the revenues of suppressed monasteries. It was almost contemporaneous with the destruction of many priceless books by reformers who were as ignorant of what is dangerous in books as a Russian censor. The shelves of Duke Humphrey’s library were denuded and sold.[Pg 134] The shrine of St. Frideswide’s, where the University had long offered reverence twice a year, was shattered; the fragments were used here and there in the buildings of the time. The relics of the saint were husbanded by a pious few in hope of a restoration; but they were finally interred with those of Peter Martyr’s wife—a significant mixture. It was the age when the University became the playground of the richer classes, and the nobleman’s son took the place of the poor scholar in a fellowship. Now men found time to dispute with Cambridge as to which university was of the greatest antiquity. The arguments put forward in Oxford were seldom more convincing than this: that Oxford was named from a ford, Cambridge from a bridge; and since the ford must have been older than the bridge, Oxford was therefore founded first. Greek for the time decayed, and the founder of Trinity College feared that its restoration was impossible in that age. As to Latin, Sir Philip Sidney, who was at Christ Church, told his brother that Ciceronianism was become an abuse among the Oxonians, “who neglected things for words.” Oxford was dignified mainly by the architecture of Christ Church; by the foundation of Trinity, St. John’s, and Jesus College, all on learned and holy ground; by the martyrdom of Latimer and Ridley, opposite Balliol; and by great names, like those of Burton and Marston at Brasenose, Peele at Broadgates Hall (Pembroke), Raleigh at Oriel, Hooker at Corpus Christi. Religion was still in the pot, and men could not confidently tell what it would turn out to be. On the one hand,[Pg 136][Pg 135]
The impressive Christ Church kitchen, which brought so much laughter since it was the Cardinal’s first contribution to his college, was actually quite typical of the era that followed. It was built with funds from dissolved monasteries. It was almost contemporary with the destruction of many invaluable books by reformers who were as clueless about the dangers of books as a Russian censor. The shelves of Duke Humphrey’s library were stripped bare and sold.[Pg 134] The shrine of St. Frideswide, where the University had long held reverence twice a year, was destroyed; the pieces were used here and there in the buildings of that time. The relics of the saint were preserved by a few faithful in hope of restoration; but they were ultimately buried with those of Peter Martyr’s wife—a noteworthy mix. It was the time when the University became the playground of the wealthy, and the nobleman’s son took the place of the impoverished scholar in a fellowship. Now people had time to argue with Cambridge about which university was older. The arguments presented at Oxford were seldom more convincing than this: that Oxford was named from a ford and Cambridge from a bridge; and since the ford must have been older than the bridge, Oxford was therefore founded first. Greek language studies declined during this period, and the founder of Trinity College feared that restoring it was impossible at that time. As for Latin, Sir Philip Sidney, who was at Christ Church, told his brother that Ciceronianism had become a problem among the Oxonians, “who neglected things for words.” Oxford was primarily dignified by the architecture of Christ Church; by the establishment of Trinity, St. John’s, and Jesus College, all on learned and holy ground; by the martyrdom of Latimer and Ridley, opposite Balliol; and by esteemed names like those of Burton and Marston at Brasenose, Peele at Broadgates Hall (Pembroke), Raleigh at Oriel, Hooker at Corpus Christi. Religion was still evolving, and people couldn't confidently predict what it would become. On one hand,[Pg 136][Pg 135]

ST. JOHN’S COLLEGE
St. John's College
It is the east front of the College we see in the picture, the library occupying the south end to the left. The garden upon which it looks is one of the most beautiful and extensive in Oxford.
It is the east front of the College that we see in the picture, with the library located at the south end to the left. The garden it overlooks is one of the most beautiful and expansive in Oxford.
Some buildings of Balliol College show to the left.
Some buildings of Balliol College can be seen on the left.
The time is late afternoon in summer.
The time is late afternoon in summer.
the Earl of Leicester, as Chancellor of the University, mended and confirmed its organisation; on the other hand, John Lyly was “the fiddlestick of Oxford,” and other Magdalen men, lovers of open air, and especially in the windy forest of Shotover, slew the King’s deer. At the new college of St. John’s, fellows and presidents suffered for the old religion, and Edwin Campion was hanged; they preserved, and still preserve, the statue of St. Bernard from the old foundation to which their college succeeded. At the end of the century, the most effective Oxford man of his time, William Laud, became Fellow of St. John’s. He built a new quadrangle, and as Chancellor made of the statutes that long and many-tailed whip which every one knows. He created modern Broad Street by deleting the cottages which stood near and opposite to Trinity. The impressive, uncomfortable Convocation House was his work. Within sight of it was the library which Sir Thomas Bodley earlier in the century had built and stored. It became the calmest, most inviolate, and most learned place in Europe.
the Earl of Leicester, as Chancellor of the University, improved and confirmed its organization; meanwhile, John Lyly was known as “the fiddlestick of Oxford,” and other Magdalen men, who enjoyed the outdoors, especially in the windy forest of Shotover, hunted the King’s deer. At the new college of St. John’s, fellows and presidents were punished for their old faith, and Edwin Campion was hanged; they kept, and still keep, the statue of St. Bernard from the old foundation that their college succeeded. By the end of the century, the most prominent Oxford figure of his time, William Laud, became a Fellow of St. John’s. He constructed a new quadrangle, and as Chancellor, he crafted the statutes that became the long, many-tailed whip that everyone knows. He created modern Broad Street by removing the cottages that stood nearby and across from Trinity. The imposing, uncomfortable Convocation House was his creation. Close by was the library that Sir Thomas Bodley had built and stocked earlier in the century. It became the calmest, most untouched, and most learned place in Europe.
At Christ Church, Dean Duppa, the first of the improvers of Oxford, was beginning the work of destruction which the Puritans continued so well. But it was then the good fortune of several colleges to receive large additions of a simple and homely character, which did more than any others to make Oxford what it is. It was the age of the retired Lincoln College chapel, with its carved panels of perfumed cedar and rich, quaint glass; the placid garden front of Wadham, as seen through the cedar tree to-day; the front and colonnades[Pg 140] of St. John’s which look on the garden; the south end of the Exeter garden front that sees so much; the front quadrangle of University College; the hall and chapel of St. Mary’s Hall; the east end of Jesus College chapel, which was just finished when Henry Vaughan arrived; and the front quadrangle of Pembroke College, converted from Broadgates Hall by a clothier, the Earl of Pembroke, and James I., and opened with ceremonies which included a fantastic Latin oration by Sir Thomas Browne, as senior undergraduate. The architecture of Wadham is a remarkable proof of the influence of antiquity upon men and things in Oxford. The founders, in 1609, were Nicholas Wadham and Dorothy, his wife, of Merifield in Somerset. The builders were mainly west country men, and worked in that lingering Gothic style which was still vital in Oxford, and seems to have guided the hand of Wren (if it was Wren) when he planned the fan tracery of Brasenose library. But in the building of Wadham chapel, one John Spicer and his men seem to have been haunted by the beauty of the Perpendicular churches of their native Somerset. The windows are so clear a reconstruction of this dream that an experienced judge refused to believe that they were of later date than Christ Church. Thither came a son of Sir Walter Raleigh and Robert Blake, who took opposite sides when the Civil War broke out.
At Christ Church, Dean Duppa, the first of Oxford's reformers, was starting the process of destruction that the Puritans would later continue effectively. Fortunately, several colleges received significant additions that were simple and unpretentious, which greatly contributed to shaping Oxford as it is today. It was the era of the quiet Lincoln College chapel, with its carved cedar panels and unique stained glass; the serene garden front of Wadham, as seen through the cedar tree today; the front and colonnades[Pg 140] of St. John’s that overlook the garden; the south end of the Exeter garden front that has witnessed so much; the front quadrangle of University College; the hall and chapel of St. Mary’s Hall; the east end of Jesus College chapel, which was completed just as Henry Vaughan arrived; and the front quadrangle of Pembroke College, transformed from Broadgates Hall by a clothier, the Earl of Pembroke, and James I., and inaugurated with ceremonies that featured an elaborate Latin speech by Sir Thomas Browne, then a senior undergraduate. The architecture of Wadham is a remarkable testament to the influence of antiquity on people and things in Oxford. The founders in 1609 were Nicholas Wadham and his wife, Dorothy, from Merifield in Somerset. The builders were mainly from the West Country and employed the lingering Gothic style that was still prevalent in Oxford, which seems to have inspired Wren (if he was indeed the one) when he designed the fan tracery of Brasenose library. However, in the construction of Wadham chapel, John Spicer and his crew appeared to be inspired by the beauty of the Perpendicular churches of their home county of Somerset. The windows are such a clear recreation of this vision that a knowledgeable judge refused to believe they were made after Christ Church. Among the visitors were a son of Sir Walter Raleigh and Robert Blake, who took opposing sides when the Civil War erupted.

MAGDALEN TOWER AND BOTANIC GARDEN
Magdalen Tower and Botanic Garden
The tower of Magdalen College is seen rising over the trees of the Botanic Garden, illumined by the last rays of the setting sun.
The tower of Magdalen College stands tall above the trees of the Botanic Garden, lit up by the final rays of the setting sun.
Beneath the poplar is one of the gate piers, and through an opening in the clipped hedge shows the basin of a fountain.
Beneath the poplar tree is one of the gate pillars, and through a gap in the trimmed hedge, you can see the basin of a fountain.
Two girls walk in the meadows.
Two girls are walking in the meadows.
its side, when he demanded a loan on the eve of the war.
its side, when he requested a loan on the eve of the war.
Van Ling had just painted the windows of University College chapel. The Dean of Christ Church, or rather “Smith of London,” had just finished the airy over-traceried approach to Christ Church hall, upon which every one looks back as he steps down to the cloisters. Other work was in preparation at Christ Church. But all building suddenly ceased.
Van Ling had just painted the windows of University College chapel. The Dean of Christ Church, or rather “Smith of London,” had just completed the open, intricately designed approach to Christ Church hall, which everyone remembers as they walk down to the cloisters. Other projects were being planned at Christ Church. But then all construction suddenly stopped.
A brief visit of Parliament troops to the yet unfortified city was recorded by the shattering of the Virgin and her Child over St. Mary’s porch. After Edgehill, the King came to Oxford, and the effect was worse than the mutilation of a Virgin of stone. The University Volunteers, some armed with bows, were drilled in the quadrangle of New College and Christ Church, and skirmished in the Parks. The royal artillery lay in Magdalen Grove. New College tower and cloisters became the arsenal: New Inn Hall the mint. Charles and Queen Henrietta Maria were lodged at Merton. The Court was held at Christ Church. A Fellow of Magdalen and a Fellow of All Souls’ edited the royalist gazette, Mercurius Aulicus, “the latter pleasing more with his buffoneries.” The besieging Parliamentarians were spread about the high ground of Headington, and the low fields on the north of the city.
A brief visit from Parliament troops to the still unfortified city was marked by the destruction of the Virgin and Child over St. Mary’s porch. After the Battle of Edgehill, the King came to Oxford, and the result was worse than the damage done to a stone Virgin. The University Volunteers, some armed with bows, practiced in the quadrangle of New College and Christ Church and skirmished in the Parks. The royal artillery was stationed in Magdalen Grove. New College's tower and cloisters became the arsenal, while New Inn Hall served as the mint. Charles and Queen Henrietta Maria were housed at Merton. The Court was held at Christ Church. A Fellow of Magdalen and a Fellow of All Souls’ edited the royalist newspaper, Mercurius Aulicus, “the latter being more entertaining with his antics.” The besieging Parliamentarians were scattered around the high ground of Headington and the low fields to the north of the city.
The greater number of scholars left Oxford, and their rooms were occupied by ladies and cavaliers. College trees were cut down for use in the defences.[Pg 146] A little war, much gallantry and coarseness, drove away learning and tranquillity, unwilling to linger for the sound of Sir John Denham’s smooth and insipid Muse, which produced Coopers Hill in 1642. The Muses were probably in hiding abroad with Lovelace and Marvell; for Milton was writing only prose, and George Wither, a Magdalen man, was a captain of Parliamentary horse at Maidstone. Yet a contemporary pamphlet says that “Robin Goodfellow” found the Muses near Eynsham. “He had not gone as far as Ensham, but he espied the nine Muses in a vintner’s porch crouching close together, and defending themselves as well as they could from the cold visitation of the winter’s night. They were extream poore, and (which is most strange) in so short an absence and distance from Oxford they were grown extreamly ignorant, for they took him for their Apollo, and craved his power and protection to support them.”
The majority of scholars left Oxford, and their rooms were taken over by women and gentlemen. College trees were chopped down for use in the defenses. [Pg 146] A small conflict, filled with bravery and rudeness, drove away learning and peace, unwilling to stay for the sound of Sir John Denham’s smooth and bland poetry, which produced Coopers Hill in 1642. The Muses were likely hiding out of the country with Lovelace and Marvell; since Milton was only writing prose, and George Wither, a Magdalen man, was a captain of Parliamentary cavalry at Maidstone. However, a contemporary pamphlet claims that “Robin Goodfellow” found the Muses near Eynsham. “He hadn’t traveled as far as Ensham, but he spotted the nine Muses in a tavern’s porch huddled close together, trying to protect themselves as best they could from the cold of the winter night. They were extremely poor, and (most oddly) in such a short absence and distance from Oxford they had become incredibly ignorant, as they mistook him for their Apollo and sought his power and protection to support them.”
One room at Trinity College was pleasant still; for the glass of the window was richly painted with a St. Gregory. And there Aubrey received the newly-published Religio Medici, “which first opened my understanding.” He carried it to Eston with Sir Kenelm Digby. Coming back to Oxford, he bade a servant to draw the ruins of Osney “two or three ways before ’twas pulled down.”
One room at Trinity College was still nice; the window glass was beautifully painted with a St. Gregory. There, Aubrey received the newly-published Religio Medici, “which first opened my understanding.” He took it to Eston with Sir Kenelm Digby. When he returned to Oxford, he asked a servant to sketch the ruins of Osney “two or three ways before it was pulled down.”

MAGDALEN TOWER AND BRIDGE
Magdalen Tower and Bridge
The Bridge runs westward across the picture, some buildings of the Botanic Garden appearing on the extreme left.
The Bridge stretches west across the image, with some buildings from the Botanic Garden visible on the far left.
Over the centre of the Bridge rises the fine tower of the College, while to the right above the north balustrade of the Bridge shows the roof of the Hall and Chapel.
Over the center of the Bridge stands the impressive tower of the College, while to the right above the north balustrade of the Bridge is the roof of the Hall and Chapel.
On the ground floor of the gabled buildings are the kitchens, the upper storey being used as sets of rooms for students.
On the ground floor of the gabled buildings are the kitchens, and the upper floor is used as rooms for students.
We see part of the river Cherwell.
We see part of the Cherwell River.
made what some call a “friendly loan” of all their plate: it was never returned or replaced by the King. Week by week, they furnished him with labour and cash. And when the Parliamentarians entered at last, there were at Merton, for example, “no Bachelors, hardly any Scholars, and few Masters,” and the hall was untenantable. The triumph of Parliament brought with it an inquisition in Oxford, which resulted in the exile, not without force, of the greater number of heads of houses and fellows for refusal to submit. The soldiers broke the Magdalen chapel window-glass; Cromwell himself took away the college organ to Hampton Court. But “the first thing General Fairfax did, was to set a good guard of soldiers to preserve the Bodleian Library. He was a lover of learning, and had he not taken this special care, that noble library had been utterly destroyed.” The chief objection to the intruded fellows and heads of houses seems to have been that they were intruded and were likely to stay. As for their accomplishments, though some lacked humour, they seem to have been respectable. The undergraduates and bachelors were in the main loyal to Cromwell; and when Prince Charles was rumoured to be approaching Oxford, New College tower became a Parliament citadel, and a troop of horse was enlisted from the colleges. The old glory of religion faded; the sound of distant Latin chanted was no longer heard in Christ Church and New College. But in one house, three devoted men preserved the old religion right through the Commonwealth, constantly and without[Pg 152] molestation. Other changes made men more content. Three coffee-houses were opened in Oxford and patronised by royalists and “others who esteemed themselves virtuosi and wits.” Men who would have adorned any age came up. Christopher Wren came to Wadham, and thence to All Souls’. Evelyn revisited Oxford and found no just ground to regret the former times, ... “creation of Doctors, by the cap, ring, kiss, etc., those ancient ceremonies and institutions, as yet not wholly abolished.” At All Souls’ he heard “music, voices, and theorbos, performed by some ingenious scholars.” At New College “the chapel was in its ancient garb, notwithstanding the scrupulosity of the times,” and the chapel at Magdalen was “in pontificial order, the altar only I think turned table-wise.” Then he dined at Wadham, and wrote down an account of what he saw at the Warden’s, “that most obliging and universally curious Dr. Wilkins.” The transparent apiaries, hollow speaking statues, dials, waywisers, and other “artificial mathematical and magical curiosities,” which he saw, well illustrate the activities of the time in the cradle of the Royal Society.
made what some call a “friendly loan” of all their silverware: it was never returned or replaced by the King. Week by week, they provided him with labor and cash. And when the Parliamentarians finally arrived, there were at Merton, for example, “no Bachelors, hardly any Scholars, and few Masters,” and the hall was unlivable. The triumph of Parliament brought about an investigation in Oxford, which led to the forced exile of most heads of houses and fellows for their refusal to comply. The soldiers broke the windows of Magdalen chapel; Cromwell himself took the college organ to Hampton Court. But “the first thing General Fairfax did was to set up a strong guard of soldiers to protect the Bodleian Library. He was a lover of learning, and had he not taken this special care, that noble library would have been completely destroyed.” The main objection to the new fellows and heads of houses seems to have been that they were imposed and were likely to remain in power. As for their skills, although some lacked a sense of humor, they seem to have been decent. The undergraduates and bachelors were mostly loyal to Cromwell; and when Prince Charles was rumored to be approaching Oxford, New College tower became a Parliament stronghold, and a troop of cavalry was recruited from the colleges. The old glory of religion faded; the sound of distant Latin chants was no longer heard in Christ Church and New College. But in one house, three devoted men preserved the old religion throughout the Commonwealth, continuously and without[Pg 152] interference. Other changes made people more content. Three coffee houses opened in Oxford and were frequented by royalists and “others who considered themselves virtuosi and wits.” Men who would have shone in any era emerged. Christopher Wren came to Wadham, and then to All Souls’. Evelyn returned to Oxford and found no real reason to regret the past, ... “the creation of Doctors, by the cap, ring, kiss, etc., those ancient ceremonies and institutions, as yet not entirely abolished.” At All Souls’, he heard “music, voices, and theorbos, performed by some talented scholars.” At New College “the chapel was in its traditional form, despite the strictness of the times,” and the chapel at Magdalen was “in pontifical order, the altar only I think turned table-wise.” Then he dined at Wadham and wrote down an account of what he observed at the Warden’s, “that most obliging and universally curious Dr. Wilkins.” The transparent beehives, hollow speaking statues, dials, waywisers, and other “artificial mathematical and magical curiosities,” which he saw, well illustrate the activities of the time in the cradle of the Royal Society.
A little after Wren came Thomas Traherne, the poet, to Brasenose, still enjoying that childhood which he praised so adeptly. We may think of him in the peaceful embowered city as having that characteristic ecstasy at the sight of common things which his lyrical prose describes. “The corn was orient and immortal wheat which never should be reaped nor was ever sown. I thought it had stood from everlasting to[Pg 154][Pg 153]
A little while after Wren, Thomas Traherne, the poet, arrived at Brasenose, still reveling in the childhood he praised so beautifully. We can picture him in the serene, tree-lined city, experiencing that unique joy at the sight of everyday things that his lyrical prose conveys. “The corn was bright and eternal wheat that would never be harvested nor was ever planted. I believed it had existed forever to[Pg 154][Pg 153]

ALL SOULS’ COLLEGE AND THE HIGH STREET
ALL SOULS' COLLEGE AND THE HIGH STREET
On the right of the picture are the entrance gate and part of the south front of All Souls’ College. West of the College, and facing the narrow street leading into Radcliffe Square, shows the east end of the south aisle of St. Mary’s Church, and the white pinnacles of the Nave.
On the right side of the picture are the entrance gate and part of the south front of All Souls’ College. To the west of the College, facing the narrow street that leads into Radcliffe Square, you can see the east end of the south aisle of St. Mary’s Church and the white spires of the Nave.
Past the porch and the new extension of Brasenose to the High Street rises the tower and spire of All Saints’, the distance being closed by the tower of St. Martin at Carfax.
Past the porch and the new extension of Brasenose to the High Street rises the tower and spire of All Saints’, with the distance ending at the tower of St. Martin at Carfax.
everlasting. The dust and stones of the street were as precious as gold: the gates were at first the end of the world. The green trees, when I saw them first through one of the gates, transported and ravished me; their sweetness and unusual beauty made my heart to leap, and almost mad with ecstasy, they were such strange and wonderful things. The men! O what venerable and reverend creatures did the aged men seem! Immortal cherubim! And young men glittering and sparkling angels, and maids strange seraphic pieces of life and beauty!”
everlasting. The dust and stones of the street were as valuable as gold: the gates were like the edge of the world at first. The green trees, when I first saw them through one of the gates, captivated and overwhelmed me; their sweetness and extraordinary beauty made my heart leap, almost driving me to madness with joy, they were such strange and incredible things. The men! Oh, what venerable and respected beings the older men appeared to be! Immortal cherubs! And the young men sparkled like radiant angels, and the women, extraordinary seraphic expressions of life and beauty!
Again, books began to flow in their natural courses to the libraries. Selden’s eight thousand came to the Bodleian. Building was resumed; for Brasenose chapel was half built by the time of the Restoration.
Again, books started arriving back at the libraries as they should. Selden’s eight thousand went to the Bodleian. Construction resumed; by the time of the Restoration, Brasenose chapel was halfway built.
The Restoration restored to Oxford the Church, a few excellent old men, and the morals of the siege. The august Clarendon was indeed Chancellor; but the city became a fashionable resort. Charles II., with his Queen and Castlemaine, were there in 1663, and again with the Parliament in the year of the plague. “High-thundering Jove,” runs a contemporary ballad, supposed to be spoken by London to Oxford:—
The Restoration brought back the Church to Oxford, along with a few admirable old men and the morals that had been lost during the siege. The esteemed Clarendon was indeed the Chancellor; however, the city turned into a trendy destination. Charles II., along with his Queen and Castlemaine, visited in 1663, and again with Parliament during the year of the plague. “High-thundering Jove,” goes a contemporary ballad, thought to be spoken by London to Oxford:—
That Britain's powerful monarch in your arms Can you hold on tight and completely overcome it? The most powerful leader in Christianity.
The aim of scholars, said Anthony à Wood, “is not to live as students ought to do, viz., temperate, abstemious, and plain and grave in their apparel; but[Pg 158] to live like gentry, to keep dogs and horses, to turn their studies into places to keep bottles, to swagger in gay apparell and long periwigs!” There was too much punning, thought Eachard. In his inquiry into the causes of the contempt of the clergy, he is not kind to the University of the day, and asks, “Whether or not Punning, Quibbling, and that which they call Joquing, and such delicacies of wit, highly admired in some academic exercises, might not be very conveniently omitted?” The first Common Room was established at Merton soon after the Restoration. But in that age even Common Rooms seem to have been but privileged and secluded inns, and quite without the severely genial amphictyonic character of to-day. When Pepys visited Oxford he naturally found it “a very sweet place”; spent 2s. 6d. on a barber in its honour; 10s. “to him that showed us All Souls’ College and Chichley’s picture”; 2s. for seeing the Brasenose butteries and the gigantic hand of the “Child of Hale”; and having seen the Physic Garden, the hospital, and Friar Bacon’s study, concluded: “Oxford mighty fine place, well seated, and cheap entertainment.” But the cheap entertainment is now among the lost causes. A little while afterwards, Evelyn attended the opening of the Sheldonian Theatre, built by Wren. He complained of the “tedious, abusive, sarcastical rhapsody” which was permitted on that occasion to the Terræ Filius, a kind of Billingsgate Aristophanes, who half-officially represented the undergraduate aversion to sweetness and light. The university printing-[Pg 159]offic[Pg 160]e
The goal of scholars, Anthony à Wood said, “is not to live as students should, that is, temperate, self-denying, and simple and serious in their clothing; but[Pg 158] to live like the upper class, to own dogs and horses, to turn their study spaces into places for storing bottles, and to show off in flashy clothes and long wigs!” Eachard thought there was too much wordplay. In his exploration of why clergy are looked down upon, he is critical of the University of his time and asks, “Couldn’t we do without Punning, Quibbling, and what they call Joking, and those sorts of cleverness that are highly praised in some academic exercises?” The first Common Room was set up at Merton soon after the Restoration. But even Common Rooms back then seem to have been just exclusive and isolated inns, lacking the warmly welcoming atmosphere we see today. When Pepys visited Oxford, he naturally found it “a very pleasant place”; spent 2s. 6d. on a barber in its honor; 10s. “to the one who showed us All Souls’ College and Chichley’s picture”; 2s. to see the Brasenose butteries and the huge hand of the “Child of Hale”; and after visiting the Physic Garden, the hospital, and Friar Bacon’s study, concluded: “Oxford is a lovely place, well-positioned, and offers cheap entertainment.” But that cheap entertainment is now a thing of the past. Not long after, Evelyn attended the opening of the Sheldonian Theatre, built by Wren. He complained about the “tedious, abusive, sarcastic rant” that was allowed on that occasion to the Terræ Filius, a sort of Billingsgate Aristophanes, who unofficially represented the undergraduate dislike of niceness and enlightenment. The university printing-[Pg 159]offic[Pg 160]e

INTERIOR OF THE SHELDONIAN THEATRE
INTERIOR OF THE SHELDONIAN THEATRE
The proceedings of Commemoration take place here, at which time the area—entered by the door to the left—is crowded by visitors.
The Commemoration events happen here, and during that time, the area—entered through the door on the left—is filled with visitors.
One of the two figures is gazing at the pulpit from which the prize poems and essays of successful candidates are recited.
One of the two figures is looking at the pulpit where the winning poems and essays of successful candidates are read aloud.
The axe and fasces projecting from the pulpit denote the justice of the awards.
The axe and fasces displayed from the pulpit represent the justice of the awards.
The upper gallery is supported by wooden columns standing upon a podium partially surrounding the area, and the building altogether is one of Sir Christopher Wren’s best works.
The upper gallery is supported by wooden columns that stand on a podium partially surrounding the area, and overall, the building is one of Sir Christopher Wren's finest achievements.
lay under the theatre, and, says a ballad of the time—
lay under the theater, and, as a song of the time says—
Spain, Gascoin, Florence, Smyrna, and the Rhine
They may experience their language there, though not the wine.
The Jew, Mede, Edomite, Arabian, Cretan,
In those deep vaults, their wandering ideas come together,
And to compute, they are astonished and thrown off balance,
How long has Oxford been known around the world?
At Magdalen, men were planting the elms of the grove and laying out the walks round the meadow. Bishop Fell was completing the west front of Christ Church, which the Civil War had interrupted, and planting those elms in the Broad Walk that look on the Cathedral and Corpus and Merton, and, farther off, Magdalen tower. In 1680 Wren’s tower over Wolsey’s gateway at Christ Church was finished. One of the Osney bells was recast to hang therein.
At Magdalen, men were planting the elm trees in the grove and setting up the paths around the meadow. Bishop Fell was finishing the west front of Christ Church, which had been interrupted by the Civil War, and planting those elms in the Broad Walk that overlook the Cathedral and Corpus and Merton, and, more distantly, Magdalen tower. In 1680, Wren’s tower over Wolsey’s gateway at Christ Church was completed. One of the Osney bells was recast to hang there.
The resistance of James II. fell in this coarse, frivolous, self-satisfied age. He was welcomed to Oxford by music and ceremony. The conduit “ran claret for the vulgar.” But when he adventured to force his nominee into the presidentship of Magdalen, he could not even procure a blacksmith to burst a resisting door. Again, the University stood to arms to oppose Monmouth’s rebellion, and clothed its members in scarlet coats, with scarves, and white-plumed hats; but had to be contented with the bonfires in celebration of the victory at Sedgemoor, and a full-dress parade. Not long afterwards many yards of orange ribbon made[Pg 164] the High Street gaudy with a pretence at honouring William III. But the colleges were vigorously Jacobite, and proved it by drinking the healths of the Stuarts as long as they could. Merton, Exeter, All Souls’, and Wadham were the exceptions. One example of the lighter occupations of the period is to be found in a story of somewhat earlier date, told of Dr. Bathurst, Vice-Chancellor and President of Trinity. “A striking instance of zeal for his college, in the dotage of old age, is yet remembered. Balliol College had suffered so much in the outrages of the grand rebellion, that it remained almost in a state of desolation for some years after the Restoration, a circumstance not to be suspected from its flourishing condition ever since. Dr. Bathurst was perhaps secretly pleased to see a neighbouring and once rival society reduced to this condition, while his flourished beyond all others. Accordingly, one afternoon, he was found in his garden, which then ran almost continuous to the east side of Balliol College, throwing stones at the windows with much satisfaction, as if happy to contribute his share in completing the appearance of its ruin.” I seem to find an echo of the sentiment of very different men, with a love of the old time amidst the politics and wine of the day, in Aubrey’s ejaculation: he wished that monasteries had not entirely been suppressed; for if but a few had been left, “what a pleasure ’twould have been to have travelled from monastery to monastery!” Nevertheless, the Oxford output of bishops was not decreased, and the number of quiet scholars—men like[Pg 166][Pg 165]
The resistance of James II fell during this coarse, frivolous, self-satisfied time. He was greeted in Oxford with music and ceremonies. The fountain “flowed with claret for the masses.” But when he tried to force his choice into the presidency of Magdalen, he couldn't even find a blacksmith to break down a locked door. Once again, the University took up arms to oppose Monmouth’s rebellion, dressing its members in scarlet coats, scarves, and white-plumed hats; but had to settle for the bonfires celebrating the victory at Sedgemoor, and a full-dress parade. Not long after, many yards of orange ribbon made[Pg 164] the High Street gaudy in a show of honoring William III. However, the colleges were strongly Jacobite, proving it by drinking to the health of the Stuarts for as long as they could. Merton, Exeter, All Souls’, and Wadham were exceptions. An example of the lighter activities of the period is a story from a slightly earlier time, told about Dr. Bathurst, Vice-Chancellor and President of Trinity. “A striking instance of his dedication to his college, even in his old age, is still remembered. Balliol College had suffered greatly during the grand rebellion, remaining almost desolate for years after the Restoration, a fact not suspected given its thriving state ever since. Dr. Bathurst was perhaps secretly pleased to see a neighboring and once-rival college reduced to this state while his flourished beyond all others. So one afternoon, he was found in his garden, which then extended almost continuously to the east side of Balliol College, throwing stones at the windows with much satisfaction, as if happy to play his part in completing the appearance of its ruin.” I find an echo of the sentiment of very different men, who had a love for the old times amid the politics and wine of the day, in Aubrey’s exclamation: he wished that monasteries had not been completely suppressed; for if only a few had remained, “what a pleasure it would have been to travel from monastery to monastery!” Nevertheless, the output of bishops from Oxford did not decrease, nor did the number of quiet scholars—men like[Pg 166][Pg 165]

CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE
Corpus Christi College
In the centre of the quadrangle rises a cylindrical dial, surmounted by a “pelican in her piety,” the badge of the Founder of the College. Behind, to the right, is the great entrance gateway and tower.
In the center of the courtyard stands a cylindrical sundial topped by a “pelican in her piety,” the emblem of the College's Founder. Behind it, on the right, is the grand entrance gate and tower.
The College cat gives scale.
The college cat shows size.
Hody of Wadham—was larger than one might conclude from the pages of honest Thomas Hearne, of St. Edmund Hall.
Hody of Wadham was bigger than you might think from what you read in honest Thomas Hearne of St. Edmund Hall.
It was upon an old monastic foundation—once Gloucester College, then Gloucester Hall—that the one new eighteenth-century college was established. Gloucester Hall had numbered among its inhabitants several famous, rather odd men, like Tom Coryat and Thomas Allen, but had fallen away after the Restoration. It was, in short, almost a possession of nettles. The buildings were only kept on the edge of desolation by the Principal and two or three families in residence. The seventeenth century had made one fantastic attempt to retrieve the Hall. A colony of twenty students from the four Patriarchates of the Eastern Church was to be regularly established there. But the dreamy plan was soon parched and destroyed in the odour of scandal. After much trifling procrastination, the Greeks were succeeded by Worcester College, and a lucky poverty left the worn old buildings for a little longer untroubled. A library, a hall, and a chapel were prepared for the new society. Wide spaces of land on every side of it were retained or acquired, which afterwards gave the college a fat rent and its incomparable bosky and watered garden.
It was on the site of an old monastery—originally Gloucester College, then Gloucester Hall—that a new college was founded in the eighteenth century. Gloucester Hall had been home to several well-known and somewhat eccentric individuals, like Tom Coryat and Thomas Allen, but had declined after the Restoration. Basically, it was almost overrun with nettles. The buildings were barely kept from falling apart by the Principal and a few families living there. In the seventeenth century, there had been a grand plan to revive the Hall with a group of twenty students from the four Patriarchates of the Eastern Church. However, that ambitious idea quickly fell apart in a cloud of scandal. After some indecisive delays, the Greeks were replaced by Worcester College, and a fortunate lack of funding allowed the old buildings to remain untouched a bit longer. A library, a hall, and a chapel were built for the new community. Expansive plots of land surrounding it were kept or acquired, which later provided the college with a significant rental income and its unique, leafy, and well-watered garden.
While Worcester was being founded in the conventional way, Oxford was developed by such buildings as the cloister at Corpus, the Pembroke chapel, the hall at All Souls’, the front quadrangle at Queen’s, and the little Lincoln “Grove” cottages. Then also the[Pg 170] Trinity College lime trees were planted. In most of the work of that time Dean Aldrich of Christ Church had a hand or a word. This clever and genial tutor was one of the best men of his day, and quite typical of the early eighteenth century. He seems to have been one to whom action came more naturally than dreams, if he dreamed at all; and he could easily express the many sides of his personality in a lasting way. A happy and golden mediocrity! He encouraged Boyle in the dazzling indiscretion of The Epistles of Phalaris. He wrote the enduring Oxford Logic, a smoking catch, and “Hark! the bonny Christ Church bells”; and perhaps this translation:—
While Worcester was being established in the usual way, Oxford was shaped by buildings like the cloister at Corpus, the Pembroke chapel, the hall at All Souls’, the front quadrangle at Queen’s, and the small Lincoln “Grove” cottages. Around the same time, the[Pg 170] Trinity College lime trees were planted. Dean Aldrich of Christ Church played a significant role in most of the work during that period. This smart and friendly tutor was one of the finest individuals of his time, truly representative of the early eighteenth century. He seemed more inclined toward action than dreams, if he had any dreams at all; and he could express the many facets of his character in a lasting way. A joyful and bright mediocrity! He encouraged Boyle in the stunning boldness of The Epistles of Phalaris. He wrote the timeless Oxford Logic, a catchy tune, and “Hark! the bonny Christ Church bells”; and perhaps this translation:—
There are five reasons why men drink,
Good wine, a friend, or being sober,
Or else we might be, soon,
Or any other reason.
The size of his architectural designs is seen in Peckwater quadrangle at Christ Church; their charm, in All Saints’, which the moon loves. Soon after his death in 1710, the stately library at Christ Church and that copious one at All Souls’ were begun.
The scale of his architectural designs is evident in Peckwater Quadrangle at Christ Church; their appeal is found in All Saints’, a place the moon adores. Shortly after his death in 1710, the grand library at Christ Church and the extensive one at All Souls’ were initiated.
In the year of the building of Pembroke chapel, Samuel Johnson entered the college, where they preserve his deal writing-table and china tea-pot. As Aldrich represents the early part of the century in Oxford, so Johnson represents the middle. Men are nowadays disposed to blame the cheerfulness of an age that produced a hundred immortals who do not give the true[Pg 172][Pg 171]
In the year Pembroke Chapel was built, Samuel Johnson started attending the college, where they still keep his old writing desk and china teapot. Just as Aldrich symbolizes the early part of the century in Oxford, Johnson symbolizes the middle. Nowadays, people tend to criticize the optimism of a time that brought forth a hundred legends who don’t truly represent the<.span class="dp-pagenum">[Pg 172][Pg 171]

CHRIST CHURCH—PECKWATER QUADRANGLE
Christ Church—Peckwater Quad
Through the opening between the west end of the College Library on the right, and some houses inhabited by Masters of the College on the left, appears the spire of the University Church of St. Mary. Part of the pediment of the buildings on the north side of Peckwater Quadrangle shows beneath.
Through the gap between the west end of the College Library on the right and some houses where the Masters of the College live on the left, you can see the spire of the University Church of St. Mary. A part of the pediment of the buildings on the north side of Peckwater Quadrangle is visible beneath.
The piece of masonry on the extreme right of the picture is part of the wall of the passage leading to Tom Quadrangle.
The block of stone on the far right of the picture is part of the wall of the hallway that leads to Tom Quadrangle.
Two undergraduates converse to the left.
Two college students are talking to the left.
ring. The college historians often entitle one of their eighteenth-century chapters the “dark” or “iron” age; and indeed, as a “school of universal learning,” the Oxford of that day might be called in question. It was more aristocratic and exclusive, perhaps, than it had ever been, and it failed to justify itself. “What class in life”—it was a song by a fellow in a play of the period—
ring. College historians often title one of their eighteenth-century chapters the “dark” or “iron” age; and indeed, as a “school of universal learning,” Oxford at that time could be criticized. It was probably more aristocratic and exclusive than it had ever been, and it didn’t manage to justify its existence. “What class in life”—it was a song by a guy in a play from that time—
And in the same play, says one, of Horace, “He was a jolly utile dulci dog, and I believe formerly might be fellow at a college.” Yet in our backward glances over Oxford history, how often do we stop when we reach that age! whether we are drinking from an old reminding tankard with the date 17—, or looking at one of its books, or living in one of the rooms which it wainscotted or furnished, heavily but how genially! “You are a philosopher, Dr. Johnson,” said Edwards, his college friend. “I have tried too in my time to be a philosopher; but I don’t know how, cheerfulness was always breaking in.” Cheerfulness broke in pretty often in Oxford. And that was a time when there was more love of Oxford than ever before. Even the wealthy Fellows of All Souls’ (“that Eden to the fruitful mind,” as Lady Winchilsea called it at that time) never bought their college; and when one of them was taunted with the quip that Oxford was less learned than Bath, he was able to reply that it was also more fashionable. I find, too, in its love of the past, as[Pg 176] in its love of nature, something heartier, though I daresay less mystical, than our own. Johnson’s love of Pembroke is an example. He had lived there as an undergraduate only fourteen months, and there seems to have been little that was tangible, to take hold of him in so short a time. Yet when he came back long after, and heard old Camden’s grace after meat—which they still use—he was at home. It is true that men of that age could as little appreciate its blank verse as we can compose it, but there were many who could then appreciate what we can now only describe. The country (in summer)—antiquity—good living—were fine things; but when they wrote, it was theology, or morals, or inaccurate philology. There was a man, long ago with God, who after much waiting obtained a fine coveted room at New College: instead of writing a sonnet forthwith, he expressed a wish to kick some one downstairs incontinently. On one occasion, it is said, the head of a college, and a great lover of Oxford, who was jocund and recumbent after a feast, was with great circumstance invited by several wags “to accept the crown of this old and famous kingdom, since King George has resigned.” To which he slowly replied, without surprise, that “if we can hold our Court of St. James’s in this Common Room, we shall not demur.” Warton’s Companion to the Guide and Wood’s Modius Salium are full of what we should call poor Oxford humour; but I think there is sufficient indication of the laughter it caused, to make us pause in any condemnation of it as compared with our own “thoughtful mirth,” which[Pg 178][Pg 177]
And in the same play, one says of Horace, “He was a jolly utile dulci dog, and I believe he used to be a fellow at a college.” Yet as we look back on Oxford's history, how often do we pause at that time! Whether we’re sipping from an old tankard dated 17— or browsing one of its books, or living in one of the rooms that it had paneling or furniture, heavy but so inviting! “You are a philosopher, Dr. Johnson,” said Edwards, his college friend. “I’ve tried to be a philosopher too, but I don’t know how; cheerfulness always seemed to interrupt.” Cheerfulness often interrupted in Oxford. And that was a time when there was more love for Oxford than ever before. Even the wealthy Fellows of All Souls’ (“that Eden for the fertile mind,” as Lady Winchilsea called it back then) never bought their college; and when one of them was teased with the quip that Oxford was less learned than Bath, he was able to retort that it was also more fashionable. I also find, in its love of the past, as [Pg 176] in its love of nature, something more genuine, though I suppose less mystical, than our own. Johnson’s affection for Pembroke is an example. He lived there as an undergraduate for only fourteen months, and there seems to have been little that he could truly grasp in such a short time. Yet when he returned many years later and heard old Camden’s grace after meals—which they still use—he felt at home. It’s true that men of that age could appreciate as little of its blank verse as we can create it, but there were many who could then appreciate what we can only describe now. The countryside (in summer)—antiquity—good food—were wonderful things; but when they wrote, it was about theology, or morals, or flawed linguistics. There was a man, long gone, who after a great deal of waiting got a highly sought-after room at New College: instead of writing a sonnet right away, he expressed a desire to kick someone downstairs immediately. One time, it is said, the head of a college, a great lover of Oxford, who was cheerful and lounging after a feast, was humorously invited by several jesters “to accept the crown of this old and famous kingdom, since King George has stepped down.” To which he slowly replied, without surprise, that “if we can hold our Court of St. James’s in this Common Room, we shall not refuse.” Warton’s Companion to the Guide and Wood’s Modius Salium are full of what we would call poor Oxford humor; but I think there is enough evidence of the laughter it caused to make us reconsider any criticism of it compared to our own “thoughtful mirth,” which [Pg 178][Pg 177]

THE RADCLIFFE LIBRARY, OR CAMERA BODLEIANA, FROM ALL SOULS’ COLLEGE
THE RADCLIFFE LIBRARY, OR CAMERA BODLEIANA, FROM ALL SOULS’ COLLEGE
Across the picture runs a cloistered screen separating the green quadrangle of All Souls’ College from Radcliffe Square. Over an entrance to the College to the left rises an octangular ogee roof, protecting some beautiful wrought-iron gates.
Across the picture is a secluded screen that separates the green courtyard of All Souls’ College from Radcliffe Square. Above an entrance to the College on the left, there is an octagonal ogee roof that shelters some beautiful wrought-iron gates.
To the right of this is the grand sweeping entablature of the Camera, bearing its majestic dome and lantern. This dome may compare with some of the finest in Europe.
To the right of this is the grand, sweeping entablature of the Camera, featuring its impressive dome and lantern. This dome can be compared to some of the finest in Europe.
The time is morning.
It's morning.
inspires mainly a desire to say something more mirthful and less thoughtful. And for those who care for none of these things, what sweeter or more dignified picture of quietness and study is there than at Lincoln in Wesley’s time, or at University under Scott, or Christ Church under Jackson? What handsomer than the Camera which was built in the middle of that century, or better to live in than Fisher’s buildings at Balliol? Or what inheritance more agreeable than the old bowling-greens, so happily celebrated in the Sphæristerium; or than the college gardens, which are nearly all eighteenth-century gifts? It has been said that the only movement in the eighteenth century was a very slow ascent to the nineteenth. That is not quite so, as many will agree who look at the re-fronting of University College chapel and hall, which was done when the wonderful century was reached at length. In fact, if we condemn the eighteenth century, we have to disown a large part of the nineteenth. In Oxford that is especially so. The destruction of the old chapels at Balliol and Exeter, and of the Grove at Merton, was carried out only fifty years ago; so long have the dark ages lingered in Oxford. As for the new buildings at New College, Christ Church, Merton, etc., they have been so widely condemned that it is to be presumed there is some merit in them, which an age nearer the millennium will praise.
inspires mostly a desire to say something lighter and less serious. And for those who are not interested in any of this, what could be a sweeter or more dignified view of tranquility and study than at Lincoln during Wesley’s time, or at University under Scott, or Christ Church under Jackson? What could be more beautiful than the Camera that was built in the middle of that century, or better to live in than Fisher’s buildings at Balliol? Or what inheritance could be more pleasant than the old bowling greens, so happily celebrated in the Sphæristerium; or the college gardens, which are almost all gifts from the eighteenth century? It has been said that the only movement in the eighteenth century was a very slow rise to the nineteenth. That’s not entirely true, as many will agree who look at the renovations of University College chapel and hall, which were completed when that remarkable century finally arrived. In fact, if we criticize the eighteenth century, we have to reject a large part of the nineteenth. In Oxford, this is especially true. The destruction of the old chapels at Balliol and Exeter, and of the Grove at Merton, happened only fifty years ago; thus, the dark ages have lingered in Oxford for quite a while. As for the new buildings at New College, Christ Church, Merton, etc., they have been condemned so widely that it's likely there’s some merit in them that a future generation closer to the millennium will appreciate.
But those works are only the less admirable and more conspicuous emblems of the nineteenth-century reformation. It had at length become possible again for[Pg 182] a man to keep his terms and take his degree without continual residence within college walls. The numbers of the University grew rapidly, and at a time when more efficient tutors and discipline made Oxford attractive to many who were neither frivolous nor rich. Oxford became, in fact, a place of education. The previous century had been conspicuous for great names and lack of system; what was achieved was due to individual endowment and energy; and the able men stood somewhat apart from their contemporaries. Wesley, for example, not only failed to make a strong party, but even to rouse an opposition of useful size. The nineteenth century, on the other hand, was a sociable one in matters of intellect. There were few lonely names. There were many groups. College after college—in a few cases before, in nearly all cases after, the first Commission—became known for their style of thought more than for their noblemen or wine. The fault of monkishness was either blotted out or exchanged for one that is more commonly pardoned to-day, nimium gaudens popularibus auris. At first, this meant an emphasis upon the distinction between college and college. It required more than a walk up Turl Street to get from Oriel to Balliol. The competition engendered by the new separate honour schools probably increased this for a time; and it was reported of one Head that, when told that Worcester College was above his own in a class list, he turned to the butler, and asked where Worcester was. But the east wind of the Commission changed all that. At the same time[Pg 184][Pg 183]
But those works are just the less impressive and more noticeable symbols of the nineteenth-century reformation. It had finally become possible again for [Pg 182] a man to meet his requirements and earn his degree without needing to live continuously within college walls. The number of students at the University grew rapidly, especially when more effective teachers and better discipline made Oxford appealing to many who were neither carefree nor wealthy. Oxford became, in fact, a place of learning. The previous century was notable for its great names but lacked a system; achievements were due to individual talent and effort, and capable individuals stood somewhat apart from their peers. Wesley, for instance, not only failed to build a strong following but also couldn’t spark an opposition of any significant size. In contrast, the nineteenth century was a social period when it came to intellect. There were few solitary figures; many groups formed. College after college—in a few cases before, in nearly all cases after, the first Commission—became known more for their way of thinking than for their aristocrats or fine wine. The tendency towards monkishness was either erased or replaced with one that is more commonly forgiven today, nimium gaudens popularibus auris. Initially, this meant emphasizing the differences between colleges. It took more than a walk up Turl Street to get from Oriel to Balliol. The competition created by the new separate honor schools probably heightened this for a time; it was reported of one Head that when he found out Worcester College was ranked above his own, he turned to the butler and asked where Worcester was. But the east wind of the Commission changed all that. At the same time[Pg 184][Pg 183]

ENTRANCE GATEWAY OF HERTFORD COLLEGE AND THE RADCLIFFE LIBRARY
ENTRANCE GATEWAY OF HERTFORD COLLEGE AND THE RADCLIFFE LIBRARY
The gateway and wall have disappeared, this view of the Library being shut out by the new high buildings.
The gateway and wall are gone, and this view of the Library is blocked by the new tall buildings.
To the left of the picture is a part of the College, and over the gateway shows a portion of the old Schools, the majestic dome and lantern of the Radcliffe Library filling the intervening space.
To the left of the picture is a section of the College, and above the gateway, you can see part of the old Schools, with the impressive dome and lantern of the Radcliffe Library filling the space in between.
A couple of undergraduates lean against the building to the left of the picture.
A couple of college students are leaning against the building to the left of the picture.
the friendly and often stimulating intercourse between senior and junior members of the colleges grew apace, and was no doubt encouraged by the increasing fashionableness of athletic sports, which gave a “Blue” the importance of a fellow, and a greater consciousness of importance.
the friendly and often engaging interaction between senior and junior members of the colleges grew quickly and was certainly boosted by the rising popularity of sports, which gave a “Blue” the status of an equal and a stronger sense of significance.
In its progress towards what is most admired in modern Oxford, Balliol is the most interesting college. Nearly all other colleges have indeed acquired a more or less thorough resemblance to Balliol in its good and bad points, but no other college has been so long, so persistently, and so progressively devoted to the same ideal. Even those who do not wholly like that ideal cannot fail to admire the consistency and energy of the men who have achieved it, or could find the like to any comparable extent in colleges that cherish other affections.
In its journey toward what is most appreciated in modern Oxford, Balliol is the most intriguing college. Almost all other colleges have somewhat mirrored Balliol in both its strengths and weaknesses, but no other college has been so consistently and progressively dedicated to the same ideal for so long. Even those who don’t completely agree with that ideal cannot help but admire the determination and passion of the individuals who have realized it, nor could they find a similar level of commitment in colleges that value different traditions.
But nowhere has there been an entire rupture with the past, or anything new which has not in a sense been laid reverently upon the foundations of the old. If one could see Keble College without its buildings, it might well seem to be not the youngest of the colleges. So, too, with Hertford College, which is indeed but the rejuvenation of the old homes of Hobbes, Selden, and Matthew Hale: it has doffed knee-breeches and periwig, and even those perhaps unwillingly, since its fellowships are lifelong for the celibate. And in the architecture of Oxford, some of the most novel effects of last century were produced by work in the same spirit of reverence for the past. Here, a[Pg 188] window received back its casements again; there, a fine roof was rescued from its burial under the impertinent superimpositions of more egotistic innovators. No other age and city perhaps would have been so curious and fortunate in restoring the old, as when at Christ Church the old floral marble base of St. Frideswide’s shrine was restored after three hundred years in the wilderness. Part was found in the cemetery wall, part in a well-side, part in a staircase, part in a wall: and almost the whole now rests in the Cathedral again.[Pg 190][Pg 189]
But there has never been a complete break from the past, nor anything new that hasn’t, in a way, been respectfully built on the foundations of what came before. If you could see Keble College without its buildings, it might not appear to be the newest college. The same goes for Hertford College, which is really just a revival of the old homes of Hobbes, Selden, and Matthew Hale: it has traded knee-breeches and wigs, perhaps with some reluctance, since its fellowships are for life for the unmarried. In Oxford's architecture, some of the most innovative designs from last century were created with the same sense of respect for tradition. Here, a[Pg 188] window got its casements back; there, a beautiful roof was saved from being buried under the disrespectful additions of self-important innovators. No other time and place might have been so curious and fortunate in restoring the old, like when at Christ Church, the ancient floral marble base of St. Frideswide's shrine was returned after three hundred years of being lost. Some was found in the cemetery wall, some in a well, some in a staircase, and some in a wall: and almost all of it now rests in the Cathedral again.[Pg 190][Pg 189]

INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL OF CHRIST CHURCH
INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL OF CHRIST CHURCH
At the east end of the choir is seen the wheel-window with two circular-headed windows underneath, restored in 1871.
At the east end of the choir, you can see the wheel window with two circular-headed windows below it, restored in 1871.
Above these rises the late groined roof of the Choir, its richness contrasting well with the Norman arches below, which spring from corbels attached to the pillars.
Above this is the late groined roof of the Choir, its opulence contrasting nicely with the Norman arches below, which rise from corbels attached to the pillars.
The Cathedral is also the College Chapel.
The Cathedral is also the College Chapel.
DONS ANCIENT AND MODERN
CHAPTER III
DONS ANCIENT AND MODERN
Modernized
The senior members of the University are perhaps as interesting as they have ever been. The freshman or other critical stranger to the city finds them less picturesque, if his ideal be anything like that of the youthful Ruskin, who looked for presences like the Erasmus of Holbein or Titian’s Magnificoes, and was disappointed at Christ Church by all save one. For the President or Master, whose absolutism used to be the envy of kings, now bears his honours inconspicuously. The fellows of colleges are no longer, indeed, a distinct and noticeable class, but are, for the most part, purely and simply scholars, or historians, or instructors of youth. The conscientious, capable, and hard-working Don is probably commoner than he has ever been; and his success is great. But even he might echo the cry against a possible tendency towards mere educational efficiency in fellows, which is expressed in the exclamation: “Nothing is so much to be feared[Pg 196] as that we should one day compete with the Board Schools.”
The senior members of the University are maybe more interesting than they've ever been. Freshmen or other newcomers to the city find them less charming, especially if they envision something like the youthful Ruskin, who imagined figures like Erasmus in Holbein’s work or the Magnificoes of Titian, and was let down at Christ Church except for one. The President or Master, who once commanded the envy of kings with his absolute authority, now carries his titles quietly. College fellows are no longer a distinct and noticeable group; instead, they are mostly just scholars, historians, or teachers. The dedicated, skilled, and hard-working Don is probably more common than ever, and he tends to be quite successful. But even he might agree with the concern about a potential shift towards mere educational efficiency among fellows, which is captured in the exclamation: “Nothing is so much to be feared[Pg 196] as that we should one day compete with the Board Schools.”
“O goodly usage of those antique times,” when it was a sufficient grace to be a scholar, and it was a kind of virtue to quote from Horace and never to play upon words outside Homer. Here and there such a man survives, always old, married to the place, and yet with a widowed air, looking as if he had crept out of one of the reverend pictures in the hall, and still clear-sighted enough to see the length of Broad Street and regret it, fumbling with the spectacles which he bought to protect his eyes in the first year of railway travelling. No one could draw him quite so happily as the Sub-Rector of Lincoln College, and in his latest book he gives us a charming hint, and there, quite appropriately, but too pathetically, he allows the old scholar to die.
“Oh, the wonderful ways of those old times,” when it was enough just to be a scholar, and it was considered virtuous to quote Horace and never make puns outside of Homer. Here and there, such a man still exists, always old, tied to the place, yet with a lonely air, looking like he has stepped out of one of the dignified portraits in the hall, still sharp enough to see the stretch of Broad Street and feel regret, fiddling with the glasses he bought to protect his eyes during his first year of train travel. No one could capture him quite as perfectly as the Sub-Rector of Lincoln College, and in his latest book, he offers a lovely glimpse, and there, quite fittingly, but too sadly, he lets the old scholar pass away.
“The Church, indeed,” he writes, “was mouldy enough, and the air within was close and sleep-giving; and as the old parson murmured his sermon twice a Sunday from the high old pulpit, his hearers gradually dropped into a tranquil doze or a pleasant day-dream—all except the old Scholar, who sat just below, holding his hand to his ear, and eagerly looking for one of those subtle allusions, those reminiscences of old reading, or even now and then three words of Latin from Virgil or the Imitatio with which his lifelong friend would strain a point to please him. They had been at school together, and at college together, and now they were spending their last years together, for the old Scholar had come, none of us knew[Pg 198][Pg 197]
“The Church, for sure,” he writes, “was pretty musty, and the air inside was stuffy and drowsy; and as the old preacher droned on with his sermon twice every Sunday from the high pulpit, his listeners gradually dozed off or slipped into a pleasant daydream—all except the old Scholar, who sat right below, cupping his hand to his ear, and eagerly searching for one of those subtle references, those memories of old readings, or even occasionally a few words of Latin from Virgil or the Imitatio that his lifelong friend would go out of his way to include just to please him. They had been in school together, then in college together, and now they were spending their final years side by side, because the old Scholar had come, none of us knew[Pg 198][Pg 197]

MAGDALEN COLLEGE, FROM THE BOTANIC GARDEN
MAGDALEN COLLEGE, FROM THE BOTANIC GARDEN
Part of the tower of Magdalen College is seen to the left of the picture, under which are some of the glass houses of the Botanic Garden.
Part of the Magdalen College tower is visible to the left of the picture, beneath which are some of the greenhouses of the Botanic Garden.
Above the pillar surmounted by a vase appears the roof of the College Hall, and farther to the right sets of rooms and the kitchens.
Above the pillar topped by a vase is the roof of the College Hall, and further to the right are the sets of rooms and the kitchens.
Three arches of Magdalen Bridge show to the right.
Three arches of Magdalen Bridge can be seen to the right.
whence, and settled down in the manor-house by the churchyard, hard by the Rectory of his old companion. And so they walked together through the still shady avenues of life’s evening, wishing for no change, reading much and talking little, lovers of old times and old books, seeking the truth, not indeed in the world around them, but in the choice words of the wise men of old: Pia et humilis inquisitio veritatis per sanas patrum sententias studens ambulare.
whence, and settled down in the manor house by the churchyard, close to the Rectory of his old friend. And so they walked together through the quiet, shady paths of life’s later years, wishing for no change, reading a lot and talking little, lovers of the past and old books, seeking the truth, not in the world around them, but in the carefully chosen words of the wise men of old: Pia et humilis inquisitio veritatis per sanas patrum sententias studens ambulare.
I
Such a one there was, until recently, to be met walking on a fine day between Magdalen and Oriel; or even, in April, as far as the Shotover road in expectation of hearing the nightingales; or as far as Carfax to learn whether the tower was looking any older. He was exquisitely courteous, without a tinge of mere courtliness, and could hate and contemn. Such was his loathing of what was unseemly that he begged he might be awakened by any one that heard him snore. If he was a misogynist, it was because he was shy and ignorant of women. He would gently insinuate, and as if it were temerity, that even good women cannot distinguish between fiction and Jane Austen, and have been known to deposit pins in ashtrays. He could not express an opinion upon subjects which he ignored or disliked, and when they were discussed in the Common Room, he had an irrepressible sympathy with both sides. Thus he was no politician,[Pg 202] but was at one with members of Parliament of both sides, by means of a little genial commonplace. But on his hobby-horses—sublimis in equis—he had a sweet eloquence which he “hoped was not persuasive.” For he disliked proselytisers more than proselytes. In later years, he became too deaf to be quite honest in answering a stupid or knavish man. He had, too, a little vocal impediment which he could use rhetorically. Preaching one day at a country church, he was dwelling at length upon the good qualities of a prophet.
There was a guy like that, until recently, you could see him walking on a nice day between Magdalen and Oriel; or even, in April, as far as the Shotover road, hoping to hear the nightingales; or all the way to Carfax to see if the tower looked any older. He was extremely polite, without being fake, and he could really dislike and scorn things. He was so disgusted by what was inappropriate that he asked to be woken up by anyone who heard him snore. If he was a misogynist, it was because he was shy and didn’t know much about women. He would subtly suggest—almost like it was bold—that even decent women struggle to tell the difference between fiction and Jane Austen, and they’ve been known to leave pins in ashtrays. He couldn’t share opinions on topics he didn’t understand or liked, and when they came up in the Common Room, he felt an uncontrollable sympathy for both sides. So, he wasn’t a politician, [Pg 202] but he got along with members of Parliament from both sides by engaging in some light conversation. But on his favorite topics—sublimis in equis—he had a beautiful way of speaking that he "hoped was not convincing." He disliked those who tried to convert others more than those who were converted. In later years, he became too hard of hearing to be completely honest when dealing with a stupid or deceitful person. He also had a slight speech impediment that he could use for effect. One day while preaching at a country church, he was going on and on about the good qualities of a prophet.
“That’s parson all over,” murmured now and then a grey parishioner, and inquired of whom he spoke.
“That’s typical of the parson,” murmured a gray-haired parishioner now and then, seeking to know who he was talking about.
“Isaiah or Habakkuk,” explained his neighbour.
“Isaiah or Habakkuk,” his neighbor explained.
“Then I don’t believe,” answered the disappointed man, “there is such a person—unless ’tis another name for parson.”
“Then I don’t believe,” replied the disappointed man, “there’s such a person—unless it’s just another name for a priest.”
When an old lady lay a-dying, and was troubled concerning the destiny of her magpie and tame hare after her death, the curate amiably suggested that Providence would take care of them.
When an old lady was dying and worried about what would happen to her magpie and pet hare after she was gone, the curate kindly suggested that God would look after them.
“No, no,” she interposed, “give them to Mr.——.”
“No, no,” she interrupted, “give them to Mr.——.”
He was, despite features which the dull might call plain, remarkably, and I had almost said physically, beautiful, because of the clear shining of his character. The tender motives that often moulded his lips, the purity and grace that found expression in his eyes, and that fluctuation of the lines of the face in thought which is almost light and shade, wrought an immortal beauty out of Nature’s poor endowment. Nor was that only when he was in a fit small company. Some men, when[Pg 203] not moved by such an influence, lapse into that sculptured and muddy expression which is the chief quality of photographs. You may surprise them void and waste. But if he was ever surprised, it might be seen that he turned to the intruder fresh from a spiritual colloquy. His smile, on opening Plutarch, was as if he blessed and was blessed, and restored the beholder to the age of the first revival of learning. Very soft—some said mincing—was his step among his books, as not knowing what or whom he might disturb. If you saw him in the Bodleian, he seemed its familiar spirit, and in some way its outward and visible expression or heraldic device. Though a wide and learned reader, he had published nothing that had anything to do with books. In his youth he had circulated “An Elegy written within sight of Keble College,” and in later years speculations on the Jurassic sea and the migration of birds. He often read aloud to himself, and even to others on being provoked, in his sounding wainscotted room in sight of All Saints steeple. Especially he liked to chant Sophocles, and to the opening of Electra gave a solemn and almost religious sweetness in the rendering. Then it was that we knew how he had gained and preserved that notable grace of pronunciation. He used to say, “It is a fine day,” instead of “Tserfineday.” And thus of every day he made a rosary of gracious thoughts and deeds among men and Nature and books; and apparelling a worldly life with the sanctity of unworldly temperance and charity, his homeliness became dignified without[Pg 204] losing its simplicity, and almost ornate with courtesies that never set a blush in the face of truth.
He was, despite what some might call plain features, incredibly, and I would almost say physically, beautiful due to the clear shine of his character. The gentle motives that shaped his lips, the purity and grace reflected in his eyes, and the subtle shifts in his facial lines when he was deep in thought created an eternal beauty from Nature's modest gifts. This wasn’t just when he was in a select company. Some men, when they aren't influenced by such feelings, fall into that stiff and lifeless expression typical of photos. You might catch them looking empty and lifeless. But if he was ever caught off guard, it would be evident that he turned to the intruder as if he had just come from a deep spiritual conversation. His smile, upon opening Plutarch, was like he was both giving a blessing and receiving one, transporting the viewer back to the time of the Renaissance. His step was very soft—some said it was almost delicate—as if he didn’t want to disturb anyone or anything. If you saw him in the Bodleian, he seemed like its familiar spirit, almost its visible embodiment or heraldic symbol. Although he was a wide and learned reader, he hadn’t published anything related to books. In his youth, he circulated “An Elegy Written Within Sight of Keble College,” and in later years, he speculated on the Jurassic sea and bird migration. He often read aloud to himself or even to others when prompted, in his echoing wainscotted room visible from All Saints steeple. He particularly enjoyed chanting Sophocles, and he infused the opening of Electra with a solemn and almost spiritual sweetness in his delivery. It was then we understood how he had achieved and maintained that remarkable grace in pronunciation. He would say, “It is a fine day,” instead of “Tserfineday.” And thus, with each day, he created a chain of gracious thoughts and actions among people, Nature, and books; dressing a worldly life in the sanctity of unworldly temperance and charity, his simplicity became dignified without losing its essence, and almost ornate with courtesies that never made the truth blush.
II
Of the successful man who is a Don by accident I confess an ignorance that borders on dislike. He is perhaps a scholar, certainly a courtier. He has the open secret of perennial youth. It is very likely that he dabbles in light literature, and may have written a book of fiction or history with a wide circulation. He was a gay, discursive parodist in his youth; chose his own ties, or thought he did; worked hard, and concealed the fact from his inferiors. His extreme caution to-day might appear indiscreet to an impartial judge. He writes letters to the Times on important matters on which he seeks information; or if his old self should be assertive, he writes over the name of “Justice” or “One who knows” in a penny paper, and is indignant towards the friends who fail to recognise his style and point of view. In this and every possible way he keeps a firm connection with the great outer world. He knows the female cousins of all the undergraduates of his college, and many of them have been mildly in love with him in a punt. He is often in London, where he is very academic, and would wish to appear merely well-informed. When he meets London friends in Oxford, he is anxious to prove that he at least is not a mere Don; yet his friends can only wonder that there is now no such thing as an Oxford point of view, but only an[Pg 205] Oxford drawl. His sitting-room is magnificent, and like style, conceals the man. It is no wonder that a man with such arm-chairs should be well satisfied. His books are noble up to the year 1800—abundant and select, often old, always fine; but after the year 1800 a certain timidity of taste may be observed. Of course his friends’ books are there, with the books which you are expected to know in country houses. For the rest, he has overcome the difficulty of selection by not selecting. As the college has good port and is indifferent in its choice of white wine, so he has good classics and a jumble of later work. He is charitable, a ready contributor to approved causes. He has travelled, and is never reduced to silence in company. He is a good talker, knowing how not to offend. He is a brilliant host, suave, considerate,—with comprehensive views,—and ready to make allowances for those who are not Dons. Perhaps he is in the main a summer bird. Then he shows that he is a gallant as well as a scholar and man of the world. He is the figure-head of his college barge during The Eights, and with an eye-glass, that is a kind of sixth sense, he surveys womankind, and sees that it is good.
I admit I don’t know much about the successful guy who became a Don by chance, and my lack of knowledge leans toward dislike. He’s probably a scholar and definitely a socialite. He has the timeless charm of eternal youth. He likely dabbles in light reading and may have written a widely read novel or history book. In his youth, he was a witty and playful parodist; he chose his own ties, or at least thought he did; he worked hard while hiding it from those below him. His extreme caution today might seem careless to an unbiased observer. He writes letters to the Times seeking info on important issues; if his past self resurfaces, he publishes under the names “Justice” or “One who knows” in a cheap paper, feeling annoyed when friends don’t recognize his style and perspective. In every possible way, he maintains a strong connection with the larger world. He knows the female cousins of all the undergrads at his college, and many have had harmless crushes on him in a boat. He spends a lot of time in London, where he acts very academic but prefers to come off as just well-informed. When he sees his London friends in Oxford, he tries hard to show that he’s more than just a Don; his friends can only be puzzled that there’s no longer a distinct Oxford perspective, just an [Pg 205] Oxford drawl. His living room is impressive, and like everything else, it masks who he really is. It’s no surprise that a guy with such comfy armchairs is quite pleased. His book collection is impressive up to 1800—plentiful and carefully chosen, often unique and always quality; but after 1800, a certain hesitancy in taste shows up. Naturally, he has his friends’ books and those you’re expected to recognize in country homes. For the rest, he avoids the hassle of picking by simply not doing it. Just as his college offers good port and is indifferent about white wine, he has great classics along with a random assortment of later works. He’s charitable and quick to contribute to worthy causes. He’s traveled and never runs out of things to say in company. He’s a good conversationalist, knowing how to avoid offending people. He’s a fantastic host—graceful, thoughtful, with broad opinions—and he’s understanding with those who aren't Dons. Maybe he’s mainly a summer person. In that case, he shows both his gallantry and his scholarly, worldly side. During The Eights, he’s the figurehead of his college barge, and with an eye-glass that acts as a kind of sixth sense, he surveys the women around him and appreciates their beauty.
III
There was lately also a more Roman type amongst us. He had a lusty Terentian wit that was not in the fashion of these times; and his proud frankness about everything but his soul found even less welcome from a[Pg 206] generation that liked to talk of little else. “A little hypocrisy”—such was his advice to freshmen, but not his practice—“a little hypocrisy is useful to a virtuous man, since it is hard not to appear a hypocrite, especially when one is not.” He was what is called an intemperate man. For, though a small, fastidious eater and short sleeper, he was a man of many bottles; nor had he the common gift of repenting of the truths which claret inspired and port enabled him to express. He never learned to whine over private infelicity—a weighty shortcoming; or to moralise on the infelicities of others—which was almost a virtue. A small Kantian once asked him how he felt after a bereavement. “It has never occurred to me,” was his reply, “to think how I felt.” An unsuccessful man himself, and burdened by his more successful and more indolent relatives, his catchword was, nevertheless, “Success.” But he perhaps hated more than a noisy failure a noisy success. Always scheming on behalf of others, he laid no plans for himself, except by writing his own epitaph, on the day before his death. He ate, drank, was merry, and did his duty. He was the life and soul and financial saviour of his college. At no time was he a profound student; he had been elected to a fellowship on account of his birth; yet the brilliant scholar and the nice courtier of the college admitted that he, the chapel, and the cook were equally indispensable. In fact, he was as near to the ideal head of a college as it would be wise to have in an ancient university. He could not lecture, and was a poor judge of imitation Greek prose. He radiated[Pg 207] a clean and vigorous worldly influence through both Common Rooms. He knew every undergraduate who was within the reach of knowledge. His judgment of men was as consummate and as untransferable as his judgment of wine. It was his custom to say that there had been three philosophers, two ancient, one modern, in the history of the world—Ecclesiastes, Democritus, and Sir William Temple of Moor Park. To his pupils he used to pronounce that, “since you are average men and will never be able to understand Ecclesiastes or take the trouble to understand Democritus,” they should follow the Englishman. He then repeated from memory this passage (with such solemnity that I believe he felt it to be his own):—
There was recently a more Roman type among us. He had a bold, witty humor that was out of style these days; and his open honesty about everything except his innermost self was even less appreciated by a generation that loved to talk about little else. “A little hypocrisy”—that was his advice to freshmen, but not how he really acted—“a little hypocrisy is helpful for a virtuous man, since it’s tough not to seem like a hypocrite, especially when you aren’t.” He was what you’d call an excessive man. Though he was a picky eater and a light sleeper, he was a man of many bottles; he also had no tendency to regret the truths that claret inspired and port helped him express. He never figured out how to complain about personal hardships—a significant flaw; nor did he moralize about the hardships of others—which was almost a virtue. A small Kantian once asked him how he felt after a loss. “It’s never crossed my mind,” he replied, “to think about how I felt.” An unsuccessful man himself, burdened by his more successful and lazier relatives, his catchphrase was still “Success.” But he probably hated a loud success more than a loud failure. Always plotting for others, he made no plans for himself, except for writing his own epitaph the day before he died. He ate, drank, enjoyed life, and did his duty. He was the life, soul, and financial savior of his college. At no point was he a serious student; he had been elected to a fellowship due to his background; yet the brilliant scholar and the skilled courtier of the college both agreed that he, the chapel, and the chef were equally indispensable. In fact, he was as close to the ideal head of a college as it would be wise to have in an ancient university. He couldn’t lecture, and he was a poor judge of imitation Greek prose. He radiated a clean and vibrant worldly influence in both Common Rooms. He knew every undergraduate who was within reach of knowledge. His judgment of people was as brilliant and as unique as his judgment of wine. He often said there had been three philosophers, two ancient and one modern, in the history of the world—Ecclesiastes, Democritus, and Sir William Temple of Moor Park. He used to tell his students that, “since you are average men and will never be able to understand Ecclesiastes or bother to understand Democritus,” they should follow the Englishman. He then recited this passage from memory (with such seriousness that I believe he felt it was his own):—
“Some writers, in casting up the goods most desirable in life, have given them this rank—health, beauty, and riches. Of the first, I find no dispute; but to the two others much may be said; for beauty is a good that makes others happy rather than one’s self; and how riches should claim so high a rank I cannot tell, when so great, so wise, and so good a part of mankind have, in all ages, preferred poverty before them—the Therapeutae and Ebionites among the Jews, the primitive monks and modern friars among Christians, so many dervises among the Mahometans, the Brachmans among the Indians, and all the ancient philosophers; who, whatever else they differed in, agreed in this, of despising riches, and at best esteeming them an unnecessary trouble or encumbrance of life: so that whether they are to be reckoned among goods or evils, is yet left in doubt.[Pg 208]
“Some writers, in listing the most desirable things in life, have ranked them as follows—health, beauty, and wealth. I don’t think anyone disputes the importance of health; but there’s a lot to be said about the other two. Beauty tends to bring happiness to others rather than to oneself; and as for wealth, I can't understand why it holds such a high position when so many great, wise, and good people throughout history have chosen poverty over riches—the Therapeutae and Ebionites among the Jews, the early monks and modern friars among Christians, various dervishes among Muslims, the Brachmans in India, and all the ancient philosophers. They might have disagreed on many things, but they all shared a disdain for wealth, viewing it as mostly an unnecessary burden or hassle in life. So, whether wealth should be categorized as a good or an evil remains uncertain.[Pg 208]
“When I was young, and in some idle company, it was proposed that every one should tell what their three wishes should be, if they were sure to be granted: some were very pleasant, and some very extravagant; mine were health, and peace, and fair weather; which, though out of the way among young men, yet perhaps might pass well enough among old: they are all of a strain; for health in the body is like peace in the state, and serenity in the air; the sun, in our climate at least, has something so reviving, that a fair day is a kind of sensual pleasure, and of all others the most innocent.”
“When I was younger, during a casual gathering, it was suggested that everyone share what three wishes they would want if they were guaranteed to come true. Some wishes were quite nice, while others were really over-the-top. Mine were health, peace, and nice weather. While those aren’t typical wishes for young people, they could probably be appreciated by older folks: they all relate to each other since good health is like peace in society and a clear sky. The sun, especially in our climate, is so refreshing that a beautiful day feels like a simple pleasure, and it’s one of the most innocent kinds of joy.”
The last words he would often repeat, with this comment: that people to-day were so much busied with sunsets and landscapes and colours that they had no such hearty feeling for Nature as the old seventeenth-century statesman, philosopher, and gardener had.
The last words he often repeated included this remark: that people today were so caught up in sunsets, landscapes, and colors that they lacked the genuine connection to Nature that the old seventeenth-century statesman, philosopher, and gardener had.
“Read Cowley and Pope,” was his only criticism in English literature. “Any one can be a Keats, though few can write as well,” he argued, “but it is not so easy to be like Pope.” Meeting Browning one day, and telling him that he enjoyed some of his poetry, the poet asked him whether he understood it. “No,” said the Don, “do you?”
“Read Cowley and Pope,” was his only criticism in English literature. “Anyone can be a Keats, though few can write as well,” he argued, “but it’s not so easy to be like Pope.” One day, he ran into Browning and told him that he liked some of his poetry. The poet asked if he understood it. “No,” said the Don, “do you?”
For twenty years, when men spoke of—— College, they thought of him. “The University of Oxford,” said an old pupil who lived to send his son to that college, “the University of Oxford, at least as a place of education, consists of old——, the river, and the college pump.” That college is now like Roman[Pg 210][Pg 209]
For twenty years, when people talked about—— College, they thought of him. “The University of Oxford,” said an old student who lived long enough to send his son to that college, “the University of Oxford, at least as a place of learning, is made up of old——, the river, and the college pump.” That college is now like Roman[Pg 210][Pg 209]

THE RADCLIFFE LIBRARY, OR CAMERA BODLEIANA, FROM BRASENOSE COLLEGE QUADRANGLE
THE RADCLIFFE LIBRARY, OR CAMERA BODLEIANA, FROM BRASENOSE COLLEGE QUADRANGLE
The gateway to the left of the centre of the picture is the entrance to the College from the Square in which stands the Radcliffe Library.
The gateway to the left of the center of the picture is the entrance to the College from the Square where the Radcliffe Library is located.
The great dome of the Library rises above the gateway tower, dominating the Square, the College, and indeed all Oxford.
The huge dome of the Library towers over the entrance, dominating the Square, the College, and all of Oxford.
On the extreme right is the entrance to the Hall, running east, the direction in which we are looking. In this Quadrangle formerly stood a metal group of Samson slaying the lion, which, it is to be regretted, has been removed. It served to give scale to the Quadrangle.
On the far right is the entrance to the Hall, which runs east—the direction we are facing. In this Quadrangle used to be a metal sculpture of Samson fighting the lion, which has unfortunately been taken away. It added a sense of scale to the Quadrangle.
literature without Lucretius, or a wine-glass of cold water.
literature without Lucretius, or a glass of cold water.
When I look back and see him, more military than ecclesiastical (except for a snuffle) in his doctorial scarlet, I think that it was partly his brow that was his power. It was a calm, ample, antique brow. In the ancient world the brow made the man and the god. It was as divine as ægis or thunder or eagle. It was more magisterial than the fasces. It commanded the Consulate and troubled the dominion of Persia and cast down the power of Hannibal. The brow of Jupiter—of Plato—of Augustus—was a hill of majesty equal with Olympus. The history of old sculpture is an Ave! to the brow. Now the soul has descended to the eyes. In politics, war, literature, above all in finance, victory is with the eyes. The old man had the godlike span of curving bone; but his eyes slept. It was his good fortune and Oxford’s honour that he ruled an Oxford college.
When I look back and see him, more military than religious (except for a sniffle) in his bright red gown, I think it was partly his forehead that gave him power. It was a calm, broad, timeless forehead. In ancient times, the forehead defined a man and a god. It was as divine as a shield, thunder, or an eagle. It was more authoritative than the fasces. It commanded the Consulate, challenged Persia’s control, and brought down Hannibal’s power. The foreheads of Jupiter, Plato, and Augustus were majestic hills, equal to Olympus. The history of ancient sculpture is a salute to the forehead. Now the soul has moved to the eyes. In politics, war, literature, and especially in finance, victory belongs to the eyes. The old man had the godlike curve of bone, but his eyes were closed. It was his good fortune and Oxford’s pride that he led an Oxford college.
IV
Among the younger men is one who spent perhaps a year in trying to combine high living and high thinking; then made a compromise by dropping the high thinking; and at last, perhaps as the result of some solemn intervention, became ascetic. He is a friend of authors and potentates. He understands a bishop, and takes a kindly interest in east-enders, so long as they are in Oxford. His aspect is grave and calm, since life, in losing half its vices, has lost all its charm. Like fine[Pg 214] cutlery, his manners lack nothing but originality; he has a good taste in flowers, and can even arrange them. Nor is the taste in books limited by his connoisseurship in binding. He is a free and fearless reader, yet careful in the choice of books to be left on the table. If style were finish, his writing would be famous; but his beautiful style is always subordinated to a really beautiful handwriting. His originally dilettante interest in palæography has lured him into some genuine research among old manuscripts. His lectures are therefore fresh, thoughtful, and perfect in gesture, delivery, and composition. I seem to behold Virgil himself at the end of one of his descants, or Politian at least. If he had not more love of the applause of his most graceful pupils than of the learned world, he might be renowned. But he is content to be three-quarters of a specialist in history and more than one of the arts, and to be a lodestar to the ladies of his audience. Perhaps only they can do him justice.
Among the younger guys is one who spent about a year trying to balance a lavish lifestyle with deep thinking; then he settled for ditching the deep thinking altogether; and eventually, maybe due to some serious intervention, became very simple and self-disciplined. He’s friends with both writers and powerful people. He understands a bishop and shows a warm interest in east-enders, as long as they’re in Oxford. His demeanor is serious and composed since life, in shedding some of its vices, has also lost all its allure. Like fine cutlery, his manners are polished but lack originality; he has a good taste in flowers and can even arrange them well. His taste in books isn't just limited to their covers. He's an open and fearless reader, yet he's selective about which books he leaves out for others to see. If style were everything, his writing would be famous; but his lovely style is always second to his beautiful handwriting. His initial amateur interest in ancient writing has drawn him into some genuine research among old manuscripts. His lectures are therefore fresh, thoughtful, and flawless in gesture, delivery, and composition. I can almost see Virgil himself at the end of one of his talks, or at least Politian. If he cared more about the applause from his graceful students than from the academic community, he might be well-known. But he’s happy being three-quarters of a specialist in history and in several arts, serving as a guiding light for the ladies in his audience. Maybe only they can truly appreciate him.
V
There is (or was) to be found at the top of a mouldy Oxford staircase the most unpedantic man in the world, seated underneath and upon and amidst innumerable books. In the more graceful than sufficient garments of his leisure, he looked like Homer, with hair still ungrizzled. He spoke, and back came the Iliad and the Odyssey on that stormy sound. But he could so well dissemble this physical magnificence that he passed in[Pg 216][Pg 215]
There is (or was) at the top of a musty Oxford staircase the most down-to-earth person in the world, sitting among countless books. Dressed in casual yet stylish clothes, he resembled Homer, with his hair still free of gray. When he spoke, the Iliad and the Odyssey echoed in that powerful voice. But he could disguise this grand presence so well that he blended in[Pg 216][Pg 215]

BISHOP KING’S HOUSE
Bishop King's House
The part of the house showing in this picture faces to the north; the east front, at right angles with this, being in St. Aldate’s. The white buildings at the left are on the east side of St. Aldate’s. It was built by Bishop King, the last Abbot of Osney and the first Bishop of Oxford. The front was rebuilt in 1628.
The part of the house shown in this picture faces north; the east front, which is at a right angle to this, is on St. Aldate’s. The white buildings on the left are on the east side of St. Aldate’s. It was built by Bishop King, the last Abbot of Osney and the first Bishop of Oxford. The front was rebuilt in 1628.
Inside, on the first floor, is a coffered ceiling, richly painted and gilt, probably of the sixteenth century, and by Italian workmen.
Inside, on the first floor, there's a coffered ceiling, lavishly painted and gilded, likely from the sixteenth century and created by Italian craftsmen.
different clothing for an able-bodied seaman and a member of Parliament.
different clothing for a sailor and a member of Parliament.
He loved the forest and cloud and sea as if they had been brothers. To visit him in his ancient room was to take a journey to Nature: to walk with him, in all weathers—to Wood Eaton, Sunningwell, Fyfield, Northmoor—was to go with a talking and genial embodiment of the north-west wind and a dash of orchard scent.
He loved the forest, clouds, and sea as if they were brothers. Visiting him in his old room felt like a trip to Nature: walking with him, no matter the weather—to Wood Eaton, Sunningwell, Fyfield, Northmoor—was like being with a friendly, chatty version of the northwest wind mixed with a hint of orchard fragrance.
His room was alive with the spirit of old histories. Famous men—Pericles or Alexander or John XXII.—seemed to live once more when they were discoursed of in that eloquent chamber. It may have been illusion,—for there was little talk of historical principles,—but on leaving him, a man felt that he had gone away “before the mysteries,” and that if he could but live in the rooms of Urbanus, the past would be wonderfully revealed. Then, a day or two afterwards, he could remember only Urbanus himself, and, after a brief indignation at the cheiromancy quite unwittingly practised, admitted that that was sufficient.
His room was filled with the energy of ancient histories. Famous figures—Pericles, Alexander, or John XXII.—seemed to come alive again when discussed in that captivating space. It might have been an illusion—since there wasn't much talk about historical principles—but when leaving him, a person felt as if they had stepped “before the mysteries,” and that if they could just live in Urbanus’s rooms, the past would be incredibly unveiled. Then, a day or two later, all they could recall was Urbanus himself, and after a moment of frustration about the palm reading that had happened without intent, they acknowledged that was enough.
I am not sure whether he professed history or divinity or Chinese. He wrote, however, an epoch-making treatise on “The Literature of Aboriginal Races, with special reference to Sumatra”; an invaluable brochure on “The Jewellery of the Visigothic Kings”; “A Complete Exposition of the Ancient Game of Tabblisk”; and “A Brief Summary of the Loves of Diarmad O’Diubhne.” His sonnet to M. Mallarmé, though it has been described as trop mallarmisé, is justly[Pg 220] admired. But he did not write ten volumes of reminiscences.
I’m not sure if he studied history, theology, or Chinese. However, he did write a groundbreaking paper on “The Literature of Indigenous Races, with a Focus on Sumatra”; a valuable brochure titled “The Jewelry of the Visigothic Kings”; “A Complete Guide to the Ancient Game of Tabblisk”; and “A Brief Overview of the Loves of Diarmad O’Diubhne.” His sonnet dedicated to M. Mallarmé, although described as trop mallarmisé, is rightly[Pg 220] praised. But he didn’t write ten volumes of memoirs.
I can see him, in a brown library or a pictured hall, beginning a lecture. He moves about a little uneasily, like the late William Morris, and as if he would rather use deeds than words. An old book lies open before him: now and then he turns over a page, reads to himself, and smiles. The conscientious undergraduate looks at his watch and begins spoiling his pen upon the blotting-paper. He comes to take notes; but Urbanus does not care. Suddenly the lecturer laughs heartily at a good passage and begins:—
I can see him, in a brown library or a decorated hall, starting a lecture. He moves around a bit nervously, like the late William Morris, as if he’d prefer actions over words. An old book is open in front of him: every now and then he flips a page, reads to himself, and smiles. The diligent undergraduate checks his watch and starts ruining his pen on the blotting paper. He’s there to take notes, but Urbanus doesn’t mind. Suddenly, the lecturer bursts out laughing at a great passage and begins:—
“I think perhaps you will like this story....”
“I think you might like this story....”
And he reads, punctuating the matter with his own lively appreciation. Somerville and Lady Margaret and St. Hugh’s look resigned; future first (or third) class men look contemptuous; a Blue feels that his time is being wasted,—he must complain,—he rises and walks out as Urbanus remarks:—
And he reads, adding his own lively commentary to the matter. Somerville, Lady Margaret, and St. Hugh’s seem resigned; future first (or third) class men look disdainful; a Blue feels like his time is being wasted—he has to complain—he stands up and walks out as Urbanus says:—
“I don’t know your name, sir, but you can sleep here, if you wish.”
“I don’t know your name, sir, but you can sleep here if you want.”
Urbanus closes the book five minutes before or after the appointed hour; some one mutters about “the worst lecturer in this incubator of bad lecturers”: such is his influence, not so much injecting knowledge as dredging and maturing what is already gained, that others can think of him easily as a humanist of the great days, who has survived in his old college, with an indifference to mere time which is not incredible in Oxford, where memories three centuries old are still alive in oral tradition.[Pg 221]
Urbanus wraps up the lecture five minutes before or after the scheduled time; someone grumbles about “the worst lecturer in this place full of bad lecturers." His impact isn’t so much about sharing new knowledge, but rather about sifting through and deepening what we already know. Others can easily view him as a humanist from the golden days, who continues to linger in his old college, unconcerned with the passage of time, which isn’t surprising in Oxford, where stories from three centuries ago still live on in oral tradition.[Pg 221]
VI
Philip Amberley, late fellow of——, took it much to heart that he was not born in 1300. He would have been a monk, and would have illuminated Ovid to the astonishment of all ages. All he could do in this age was to perform his tutorial duty, and to write a few pages of noble English in a caligraphy that was worthy of the ages he loved. He wrote but one book, which he burned, because nobody would give him £5 for it. A not very old or very credible story tells how an intelligent alien blurted out the question, at the high table of Philip’s college: Whether the uncomely heads before the Sheldonian Theatre were not the fellows of that same college. The inquirer was corrected with asperity; and in revenge he always stated that he afterwards received photographs of the younger fellows, by way of removing the mote from his eye. But Philip sent a photograph of the least human physiognomy, signed with full name and college. For the rest, he had that uncertainty of character which is called conscience in the good and timidity in the bad, and in him meant merely that he exchanged an act for a dream. He was filled with a supreme pity, even for the Devil, whom he called “that immortal scapegoat of gods and men.”
Philip Amberley, a former fellow of——, was deeply troubled by the fact that he wasn't born in 1300. He imagined he would have been a monk and would have illuminated Ovid, amazing all generations. In this present time, all he could do was carry out his teaching duties and write a few pages of noble English in a calligraphy worthy of the eras he admired. He wrote only one book, which he burned because no one would pay him £5 for it. There's a not-so-ancient or reliable tale about how an astute alien blurted out a question at the high table of Philip's college: whether the unappealing faces outside the Sheldonian Theatre weren’t actually the fellows of that same college. The asker was sharply corrected; in retaliation, he claimed he later received photographs of the younger fellows to help get the speck out of his eye. However, Philip sent a photo of the least human-looking face, signed with his full name and college. Besides that, he had that uncertainty of character often called conscience in good people and timidity in bad ones, which for him just meant trading an action for a dream. He was filled with an overwhelming pity, even for the Devil, whom he referred to as “that immortal scapegoat of gods and men.”
He died on an evening of July, while the scent of hay in passing waggons filled and pleased his nostrils, lying in his half-monastic, half-manorial home, not far from Oxford. How often had he celebrated the sweet[Pg 222]ness of the dead grass as an emblem of comely human death! For a little while he spoke of his friends, of the “beautiful gate” of St. Mary’s, of his columbines (the older sort), and of a copy of Virgil newly come from Italy. We listened silently. Life was still an eloquent poet on his lips. But Death was a strong sculptor already at work upon his face and hands. The last waggon passed below his window as he lay dead, and the friendly carter shouted “Good-night.”
He died one evening in July, with the smell of hay from passing wagons filling and pleasing his nostrils, lying in his half-monastic, half-manorial home not far from Oxford. How often had he celebrated the sweetness of the dead grass as a symbol of dignified human death! For a little while, he talked about his friends, the “beautiful gate” of St. Mary’s, his columbines (the older kind), and a newly arrived copy of Virgil from Italy. We listened quietly. Life was still a passionate poet on his lips. But Death was already a strong sculptor working on his face and hands. The last wagon passed beneath his window as he lay dead, and the friendly cart driver called out “Good-night.”
Now, we three were ashamed that we could find no tears for the loss of such a man; and again, that we should suffer any alteration of our joy, at having seen what we had seen. We recalled the past through half the night. As we sat, none of us looked more alive than he, amidst the old gloomy furniture, refashioned by the moon. We were but the toys of night, of the smooth perfumes and the sounds of nothing known, and of the presence which was like a great thought in the room. Then as the coming day mingled with the passing night, a cold pale beam—ῶ φάος ἁγνὸν—came to the four. As often a symbol becomes an image, so the beam of light seemed to be the very spirit of which it was a messenger, hailed by our eyes and hearts. It was beautiful as the Grail with many angels about it,—awful as the woman of stern aspect and burning eyes that visited the dream of Boethius. It was worthy to have ushered visions yet more august. Ah! the awful purity of the dawn. The light grew; our fancies were unbuilt; we became aware of a holy excellence in the light itself, and enjoyed an almost sensual[Pg 224][Pg 223]
Now, the three of us felt ashamed that we couldn't shed any tears for the loss of such a man; and again, that our happiness at having witnessed what we had didn't suffer any change. We reminisced about the past for half the night. As we sat there, none of us looked more alive than he did, surrounded by the old, gloomy furniture transformed by the moonlight. We were just playthings of the night, influenced by the smooth fragrances and the sounds of the unknown, along with a presence that felt like a profound thought in the room. Then, as the approaching day blended with the fading night, a cold, pale ray—ῶ φάος ἁγνὸν—shone down upon us. Just as a symbol can become an image, that beam of light seemed to embody the very spirit it represented, recognized by our eyes and hearts. It was as beautiful as the Grail surrounded by angels—and as awe-inspiring as the woman with a stern gaze and burning eyes who visited Boethius in his dream. It deserved to have heralded even more magnificent visions. Ah, the terrifying purity of dawn. The light intensified; our imaginations unraveled; we became aware of a sacred brilliance in the light itself, experiencing an almost sensual[Pg 224][Pg 223]

THE CLARENDON BUILDING, LOOKING EAST
The Clarendon Building, facing east
On the right stand those grotesque thermes partly surrounding and forming an entrance to the enclosure of the Sheldonian Theatre, the old Ashmolean, and the Schools.
On the right are those oddly shaped thermes that partly surround and create an entrance to the area of the Sheldonian Theatre, the old Ashmolean, and the Schools.
They are a quaint and conspicuous feature in Broad Street.
They are a charming and prominent feature on Broad Street.
Above them towers the Clarendon Building, with its worn and richly coloured surface, the columns of the portico relieved against the sky. A portion of the Indian Museum appears in the centre of the picture, the old houses forming picturesque foreground objects to the left.
Above them stands the Clarendon Building, with its weathered and vibrant surface, the columns of the portico standing out against the sky. A section of the Indian Museum can be seen in the middle of the image, while the old houses create a charming foreground to the left.
melancholy repose. The owls were silent. The nightingales joined their songs to the larks’. And I went out and walked and remembered his epitaph—Vita dulcis, sed dulcior mors—and another July day, when Philip Amberley was alive.
melancholy rest. The owls were quiet. The nightingales chimed in with the larks’ songs. And I went out and walked, remembering his epitaph—Vita dulcis, sed dulcior mors—and another July day when Philip Amberley was alive.
How he would walk! with what an air, an effluence, humble, and of consequence withal! Half the village dallied among their flowers or beehives to see him going. His long staff was held a foot from the upper end, which almost entered his beard. He bore it, not airily with twirling and fantastic motion, as our younger generation likes to do, but solemnly, making it work, and leaning on it as if it were a sceptre, a pillar, a younger brother. His eyes appeared to study the ground; yet indeed all that was to be seen and much that is commonly invisible lay within their sway. It was said he kept eyes in his pockets. His shanks were of the extreme tenuity that seems no more capable of weariness than of being diminished. Returning or setting forth, especially when seen against the sky at sunset or dawn, he was a portent rather than a man. His person was an emblem of human warfaring on earth—a hieroglyph—a monument. His movements were of epic significance. His beard did not merely wag; it transacted great matters. In setting out he himself said he never contemplated return; it was unnecessary; at most it was one of several possibilities. Yet had he a big laugh that came from his beard like a bell from a grey tower. He would even sing as he walked, and was the sole appreciator of his own rendering[Pg 228] of “The All Souls’ Mallard,” in a broken, grim baritone.
How he walked! With such presence, a mix of humility and significance! Half the village lingered among their flowers or beehives to watch him pass. He held his long staff a foot from the top, almost touching his beard. He didn't carry it lightly with fancy movements like our younger generation tends to do, but seriously, using it for support as if it were a scepter, a pillar, or a younger brother. His eyes seemed focused on the ground, yet they captured everything visible and much that usually goes unnoticed. People joked that he had eyes in his pockets. His legs were so thin they seemed incapable of fatigue or getting any smaller. Returning or leaving, especially when silhouetted against the sky at sunset or dawn, he appeared more like a symbol than a man. His presence represented human struggles on earth—a hieroglyph, a monument. His movements held epic importance. His beard didn't just sway; it seemed to handle significant matters. When he set out, he claimed he never thought about coming back; it wasn't needed; at most, it was just one of many possibilities. Yet he had a big laugh that rang from his beard like a bell from a gray tower. He would even sing as he walked, and he was the only one who appreciated his own rendition[Pg 228] of “The All Souls’ Mallard,” in a cracked, deep baritone.
All day we walked along an ancient Oxfordshire road. It was the most roundabout and kindly way towards our end, and so disguised our purpose that we forgot it. The road curved not merely as a highway does. Demurring, nicely distinguishing between good and better, rashly advancing straight, coyly meandering, it had fallen in love with its own foibles, and its progress was not to be measured by miles. At one loop (where the four arms of a battered signpost all pointed to—nowhere) the first man who trod this way must have paused to think, or not to think, and have lost all aim save perambulation. So it stole through the land without arresting the domesticities of the quiet hills. Often it was not shut out from the fields by hedge or fence or bank. For some leagues it became a footpath—its second childhood—“as though a rose should shut and be a bud again”—with grass and flowers unavoidable under foot and floating briers and hops overhead. In places the hedges had united and unmade the road. From every part of it some church could be seen: Philip would sometimes enter in, having some faith in the efficacy of reverence offered by stealth on these uncanonical holy days. On our way he sometimes paused, where bees made a wise hum in glowing gardens; or where the corn-shocks looked like groups of women covered by their yellow hair, as the sun ascended; or where the eye slumbered, and yet not senselessly or in vain, amidst a rich undistinguished[Pg 229] landscape, made unreal and remote by mist; and he would whisper an oath or a line of Theocritus or a self-tormenting speech—“Six hundred years ago perhaps one of my name passed along this road. Oh! for one hour of his joy as he spied his inn, or carved a cross in the church of St. John, or kissed the milkmaid at yonder gateway. Or would that I could taste his grief, even; his fresh and lively grief, I think, had something in it which my pale soul is sick for. For me the present is made of the future and the past. But he—perhaps—he could say, ‘Here am I with a can of mead and a fatigue that will do honour to my lavendered sheets; Ave Maria! here’s to you all!’” Yet Philip’s mood was not seldom as clear and simple as that.
All day we walked along an old Oxfordshire road. It was the most winding and gentle route to our destination, so much so that we forgot our goal. The road curved not just like any highway. Hesitant, thoughtfully choosing between good and better, boldly heading straight, and playfully wandering, it had become enamored with its own quirks, and its journey couldn’t be measured in miles. At one loop (where the four arms of a weathered signpost pointed to—nowhere), the first person to walk this way must have paused to think, or perhaps to not think at all, losing all ambition except for strolling. So it drifted through the landscape without interrupting the peacefulness of the quiet hills. Often it wasn’t separated from the fields by hedges, fences, or banks. For some stretches, it turned into a footpath—its second childhood—“as though a rose should close and become a bud again”—with grass and flowers unavoidable underfoot and climbing briers and hops overhead. In some areas, the hedges merged and erased the road. From various points along it, you could spot a church: Philip would sometimes go inside, having some belief in the power of reverence offered quietly on these unconventional holy days. Along our journey, he would occasionally stop, where bees hummed wisely in vibrant gardens; or where the stacked corn looked like groups of women cloaked in their yellow hair as the sun rose; or where the eye rested, not mindlessly or in vain, amid a rich, indistinct landscape, made surreal and distant by mist; and he would whisper an oath or a line from Theocritus or a self-pitying monologue—“Six hundred years ago perhaps one of my ancestors walked this road. Oh! for just one hour of his joy when he spotted his inn, or carved a cross in the church of St. John, or kissed the milkmaid at that gate. Or how I wish I could feel his sorrow, even; his fresh and vibrant sorrow, I believe, had something in it that my pale soul longs for. For me, the present is a mix of the future and the past. But he—perhaps—he could say, ‘Here I am with a jug of mead and a weariness that will do justice to my lavender-scented sheets; Ave Maria! here's to you all!’” Yet Philip’s mood wasn’t always as clear and straightforward as that.
At the inn—a classic inn to Oxford scholars—while the wind was purring in a yew tree, he put all his gloomier fancies in a tankard, where they were transmuted by a lambent ale and the “flaming ramparts” of that small world. The landlord was unloading a dray. As it is with men and clothes, remarked Philip, so with ale; the one grace of new ale is that it will one day be old. “May I,” he said, “in some world or another, be at least as old as this tankard, in the course of time: if I deserve it, as old as this inn: if I can, as old as these hills, with their whiskers of yew. Or, so long as I am not solitary, may I be as old as the sun, which alone of all visible things has obviously reached a fine old age!” He told me that his only valued dream was of an immemorial man, seated on a star near[Pg 230] the zenith; and his beard’s point swept the hilltops, while with one hand he raised a goblet as large as the dome of the Radcliffe to his lips, and with the other stroked his beard and caused golden coins to flow in cascades into the countless hands of those underneath; and in a melodious bass he said continually, “It is well.”
At the inn—a typical spot for Oxford scholars—while the wind was softly rustling in a yew tree, he poured all his darker thoughts into a tankard, where they transformed with the glowing ale and the “flaming ramparts” of that small world. The innkeeper was unloading a cart. As it is with people and their clothes, Philip remarked, so it is with ale; the only virtue of new ale is that it will eventually become old. “May I,” he said, “in some world or another, be at least as old as this tankard over time: if I deserve it, as old as this inn: if I can, as old as these hills, with their yew tree whiskers. Or, as long as I am not alone, may I be as old as the sun, which alone of all visible things has clearly reached a grand old age!” He shared that his only cherished dream was of an ancient man, sitting on a star near[Pg 230] the top of the sky; and his beard’s tip brushed the hilltops, while with one hand he lifted a goblet as large as the dome of the Radcliffe to his lips, and with the other he stroked his beard, causing golden coins to cascade into the countless hands below; and in a rich bass voice, he kept saying, “It is well.”
In his youth he had wedded Poverty, and when in the course of nature she forsook him, he gently transferred his heart to Humility, regretting only that he could no longer dress badly or make his own toast, without affectation. He would give a beggar a handful of tobacco, and ask sincerely, “Is it enough?” At the inn, he might have been lightly treated for the respect with which he shamed the most unhappy outcast, if he had not indifferently accepted the homage of the squire.
In his youth, he married Poverty, and when she naturally left him, he softly gave his heart to Humility, only wishing that he could still dress poorly or make his own toast without trying too hard. He would give a beggar a handful of tobacco and genuinely ask, “Is this enough?” At the inn, he might have been treated well for the way he made even the most miserable outcast feel respected, if he hadn't casually accepted the admiration from the squire.
“Which book of the Æneid,” said that magnate of fifteen stone, at seeing a Virgil in his hand, “do you like best?”
“Which book of the Æneid,” said the hefty man weighing fifteen stone, upon seeing a Virgil in his hand, “do you like the most?”
“The sixth.”
"Sixth."
“And why?”
“Why?”
“Because I have just read it over again.”
“Because I just read it again.”
“And which do you like next?”
“And which one do you like next?”
“The second, because I read it first, and loved it (I was twelve) better than anything but rackets.”
“The second, because I read it first and loved it (I was twelve), more than anything except for rackets.”
So he turned to the five tramps, the first I ever saw leave their hats undoffed at his approach, who sat opposite.
So he turned to the five tramps, the first ones I ever saw keep their hats on when he approached, who sat across from him.
They spoke, proclaiming themselves human; but[Pg 231] their clothes, their twisted bodies, and their gnarled, grey, bare feet, seemed to be the original material from which some power had adventured to carve their desperate faces, and then desisted in alarm, lest it should make a gnome. They might seem to have newly risen out of the soil, with all its lugubrious dishonours about them, and in an elder world might have commanded the reverence of simple men, as Chthonian apparitions. I have seen dead pollard-willows like them, and rocks out of which the sea has wrought figures more humane. “Pedestalled haply in a palace court,” they would have amazed the curious and confounded the wise; drinking beer at “The Pilgrim’s Chair,” they happened to agree with Philip’s “idea of a wild man,” which he had treasured on a dusty Platonic shelf of his mind for fifty years. The urpflanze found at last could not bring a finer joy to a botanist than they to him. His mind wandered about his discovery. “These great men”—he said—“are the victims of a community that permits nobody to break its own law, and is indignant that a poacher or a thief should claim the foregone privilege. On these men falls the duty of keeping up the capacity of our race for breaking law—a natural capacity. I should like to see—fill the pot, landlord—something like the American arbor-day established in this fine country. On that day men should plant, not a tree, but a wild emotion. Not all of us, alas! could find one to plant. But such a wild man’s day would be a noble opportunity for the divine instincts that are now relieved or ill-fed by[Pg 232] politics, fiction, religious reform, and so on. I am for a more than Stuart, indulgent, anti-parliament government on one day, when the policeman should clink tankards with the tramp, as if he too were a man. See here!”—he mildly concluded, exposing the unwilling palm of the nearest tramp,—“this good fellow is so appreciative that he has taken my coppers and left the silver in my purse.” Ordering the landlord to fill tankards all round—“for this gentleman,” he said, pointing to the pickpocket—he soon made the whole party harmonious, eloquent, and gay.
They talked, calling themselves human; but[Pg 231] their clothes, their twisted bodies, and their gnarled, grey, bare feet looked like the raw material that some force had tried to shape into their desperate faces, then stopped in fear, worried it might turn them into gnomes. They seemed to have just emerged from the earth, carrying all its sad humiliations, and in an older world might have commanded the respect of simple people, like otherworldly figures. I’ve seen dead pollard willows that look like them, and rocks shaped by the sea into more human-like forms. “If they were displayed in a palace courtyard,” they would have amazed onlookers and baffled the wise; sipping beer at “The Pilgrim’s Chair,” they resonated with Philip’s idea of a “wild man,” which he had kept in a dusty corner of his mind for fifty years. The urpflanze finally discovered couldn’t bring a botanist more joy than they brought him. His thoughts wandered around his revelation. “These great men”—he said—“are victims of a society that doesn’t allow anyone to break its laws, and gets upset when a poacher or thief tries to claim their assumed rights. It falls on these men to maintain our species’ capacity for breaking laws—a natural ability. I’d love to see—fill the pot, landlord—something like an American Arbor Day established in this wonderful country. On that day, people should plant not a tree, but a wild emotion. Unfortunately, not all of us could find one to plant. But such a Wild Man’s Day would be a great chance for the divine instincts that are currently starved or poorly fed by[Pg 232] politics, fiction, religious reforms, and so on. I am in favor of a more relaxed, forgiving, anti-parliament governance for just one day, when the policeman could clink tankards with the drifter, as if he were a man too. Look here!”—he gently concluded, showing the reluctant palm of the nearest drifter,—“this good fellow is so grateful that he took my coins and left the silver in my purse.” Telling the landlord to fill tankards all around—“for this gentleman,” he said, pointing to the pickpocket—he soon made the whole group cheerful, expressive, and happy.
He spoke few words. His Virgil lay open still. Now and then his random speech or a laugh at a bad jest floated joyously—like lemons in a punch-bowl—over the company. Every one astonished every one with shrewd or witty things. Not a man but thought himself almost as fine a fellow as Philip Amberley. Not a man but on leaving him was a little abashed as he took a last glance at my friend, and saw what manner of man he was.
He said very little. His Virgil was still open. Occasionally, his offhand comments or laughter at a bad joke floated happily—like lemons in a punch bowl—over the crowd. Everyone amazed each other with clever or witty remarks. No one didn’t think he was almost as great a guy as Philip Amberley. Yet, when leaving him, everyone felt a bit embarrassed as they took one last look at my friend and saw what kind of man he truly was.
“There he goes,” said Philip solemnly, as he leaned forward to watch them reeling up the lane, singing as if their feet were shod and their pockets full, “There he goes—an almost perfect man. I seem to see them as one man, made up of the virtues or unselfish vices (which are all the most of us can achieve) of all five, as a painter collects a beautiful face from many mediocrities. Every one of them has his fustian soul ‘trimmed with curious lace.’” And so he continued; with generous and cunning speech freeing of rust, nay![Pg 234][Pg 233]
“There he goes,” Philip said seriously, leaning forward to watch them walking down the lane, singing as if they were well-dressed and had full pockets, “There he goes—an almost perfect man. I can almost see them as one person, made up of the good qualities or selfless faults (which is all most of us can really achieve) of all five, like a painter putting together a beautiful face from many average ones. Each of them has his flashy soul ‘trimmed with intricate lace.’” And so he continued; with generous and clever speech freeing from dullness, no!

ALL SAINTS’ CHURCH, FROM TURL STREET
ALL SAINTS’ CHURCH, FROM TURL STREET
All Saints’ Church was built in 1708 from a design by Dr. Aldrich, Dean of Christ Church. The tower, lantern, and spire, which appear in the picture, are well proportioned.
All Saints' Church was built in 1708 based on a design by Dr. Aldrich, the Dean of Christ Church. The tower, lantern, and spire, shown in the picture, are well-proportioned.
There are some ancient half-timbered buildings on the right, and between them and the Church tower, at the south end of Turl Street, is a glimpse of the High Street.
There are some old half-timbered buildings on the right, and in between them and the church tower at the south end of Turl Street, you can catch a glimpse of the High Street.
North of the nave of the Church, along “The Turl,” shows a portion of the buildings of Lincoln College.
North of the main area of the Church, along “The Turl,” you can see part of the buildings of Lincoln College.
burnishing, the unused virtue in these abjects. “I have avoided what is called vice,” he said, “because it is so easy, and I do not love easy things;” and for the same reason he frowned but tenderly on those who had not avoided it.
burnishing, the unused virtue in these outcasts. “I have stayed away from what’s called vice,” he said, “because it’s so easy, and I don’t like easy things;” and for the same reason, he frowned but with kindness at those who had not avoided it.
While the sunlight was failing, we were left by ourselves. But Philip was not alone. He had laid his book and ale aside, and looked at the solemn row of empty chairs against the wall. His eyes wore the creative look of eyes that apprehend more than is visible. In those chairs he beheld seated what he called his Loves—the very faces and hair and hands of his dead friends. I have heard him say that they appeared “in their old coats.” Night after night they revisited him—“of terrible aspect,” yet sweet and desirable. They were as saints are to men whose religion is of another name than his. He could say and act nothing which those faces approved not, or which those faint hands would have stayed. Embroidered by the day upon the border of the night, their life was an hour. Out of doors he saw them, too, in well-loved places—gateways above Hinksey, hilltops at Cumnor or Dorchester, Christ Church groves, or fitting Oxford streets—such as (he believed) had something in them which they owed to his passionate contemplation in their midst. There he heard them speak softlier than the wings of fritillaries in Bagley Wood. Si quis amat novit quid hæc vox clamat.... But his own face comes not to satisfy the longing of those who watch as faithfully, with eyes dimmer or of less felicity.[Pg 238]
While the sunlight was fading, we found ourselves alone. But Philip wasn’t truly alone. He had set his book and beer aside, looking at the solemn row of empty chairs against the wall. His eyes had that creative spark, as if they could see more than what was right in front of him. In those chairs, he imagined his Loves—the exact faces, hair, and hands of his deceased friends. I’ve heard him say they appeared “in their old coats.” Night after night, they came to him—“of terrible aspect,” yet sweet and desirable. They were like saints to those whose beliefs differ from his. He couldn’t say or do anything that those faces wouldn’t approve of, or that those faint hands wouldn’t have stopped. Embroidered by the day at the border of night, their existence lasted only an hour. He saw them outdoors, too, in cherished places—gateways above Hinksey, hilltops at Cumnor or Dorchester, Christ Church groves, or familiar Oxford streets—places he believed held some essence that belonged to him because of his passionate contemplation among them. There he heard their voices softer than the wings of fritillaries in Bagley Wood. Si quis amat novit quid hæc vox clamat.... But his own face doesn’t come to fulfill the yearning of those who watch just as faithfully, with eyes dimmer or less joyful.[Pg 238]
The Past
The Oxford graduate of the past is far too pale a ghost in literature. He lies in old books, like a broken sculpture waiting to be reconstructed, and survives but in an anecdote and from his importance after leaving Oxford for a bishopric or a civil place. For one memory of a Don there are a hundred of soldiers, statesmen, priests, in the quadrangles and streets. He is in danger of being treated as merely the writer of a quaint page among the records of the college muniment-room. Erasmus, Fuller, Wood, Tom Warton, preserve and partly reveal the spirit of the past, and help us to call up something of the lusty, vivid life which the fellows and canons and presidents led in their “days of nature.” There is, for example, a Dean of Christ Church, afterwards Bishop of Oxford and last of Norwich, who has still the breath of life in him, on John Aubrey’s page.
The Oxford graduate from the past feels like a faint memory in literature. He exists in old books, like a damaged sculpture waiting to be fixed, and is remembered only through anecdotes and his significance after leaving Oxford for a bishopric or a government position. For every memory of a scholar, there are a hundred of soldiers, statesmen, and priests in the courtyards and streets. He risks being seen as just the writer of a quirky page in the college archives. Erasmus, Fuller, Wood, and Tom Warton capture and partly reveal the spirit of the past, helping us recall some of the vibrant, lively existence that the fellows, canons, and presidents had in their “days of nature.” For instance, there's a Dean of Christ Church, later Bishop of Oxford and finally of Norwich, who still feels alive on John Aubrey’s page.
I
He was “very facetious and a good fellow,” and Ben Jonson’s friend. When a Master of Arts, if not a Bachelor of Divinity, he was often merry at a good ale parlour in Friar Bacon’s study, that welcomed Pepys and stood till 1779. It was rumoured that the building would fall if a more learned man than Bacon entered, a mischance of which the Dean had no fear. When he was a Doctor of Divinity “he sang ballads at the Cross at Abingdon on a market-day.” The usual[Pg 239] ballad-singer could not compete with such a rival, and complained that he sold no ballads. Whereat “the jolly Doctor put off his gown and put on the ballad-singer’s leathern jacket, and being a handsome man, and had a rare full voice,” he had a great audience and a great sale of sheets. His conversation was “extreme pleasant.” He and Dr. Stubbinge, a corpulent Canon of Christ Church, were riding in a dirty lane, when the coach was overturned. “Dr. Stubbinge,” said the Dean, “was up to his elbows in mud, but I was up to the elbows in Stubbinge.” He was a verse-maker, of considerable reputation, of some wit and abundant mirth, with a quaint looking backward upon old places and old times that is almost pathetic in these verses:—
He was “very funny and a great guy,” and a friend of Ben Jonson. When he was a Master of Arts, if not a Bachelor of Divinity, he often had a good time at a cozy pub in Friar Bacon's study, which welcomed Pepys and lasted until 1779. There were rumors that the building would collapse if someone more learned than Bacon entered, a worry the Dean dismissed. When he became a Doctor of Divinity, “he sang ballads at the Cross in Abingdon on market day.” The usual[Pg 239] ballad singer couldn’t compete with him and complained that he wasn’t selling any ballads. In response, “the jolly Doctor took off his gown and put on the ballad singer’s leather jacket, and being a handsome man with a rare full voice,” he attracted a large audience and sold a lot of ballads. His conversation was “extremely pleasant.” He and Dr. Stubbinge, a hefty Canon of Christ Church, were riding through a muddy lane when their coach overturned. “Dr. Stubbinge,” said the Dean, “was up to his elbows in mud, but I was up to my elbows in Stubbinge.” He was a poet of considerable reputation, known for his wit and abundant humor, with a nostalgic view of old places and times that feels almost touching in these verses:—
Good housewives can now say,
For now, filthy sluts in dairies Do just as well as they do.
And even though they still clean their fireplaces just as much
Than maids usually did,
Yet who recently for cleanliness Finds a sixpence in her shoe?
But some have altered your land;
And all your children came from there. Are now grown Puritans; Who have lived as changelings ever since, For the love of your domains.
When Bishop of Oxford, he had “an admirable, grave, and venerable aspect.” But his pontifical state[Pg 240] permitted some humanities, and he was married to a pretty wife. “One time,” says Aubrey, “as he was confirming, the country people pressing in to see the ceremony, said he, ‘Bear off there, or I’ll confirm you with my staff.’ Another time, being about to lay his hand on the head of a man very bald, he turns to his chaplain (Lushington) and said, ‘Some dust, Lushington’ (to keep his hand from slipping).” He and Dr. Lushington, of Pembroke College, “a very learned and ingenious man,” would sometimes lock themselves in the wine-cellar. Then he laid down first his episcopal hat, with, “There lies the doctor”; next, his gown, with, “There lies the bishop”; and then ’twas “Here’s to thee, Corbet” and “Here’s to thee, Lushington.” Three years after attaining the bishopric of Norwich he died. “Good-night, Lushington,” were his last words.
When he was the Bishop of Oxford, he had "an impressive, serious, and respectable appearance." But his position also allowed for some human touch, and he was married to an attractive wife. "One time," Aubrey recounts, "while he was confirming people, the locals crowded in to watch the ceremony, and he said, 'Back off or I’ll confirm you with my staff.' Another time, as he was about to lay his hand on the head of a very bald man, he turned to his chaplain (Lushington) and joked, 'Some dust, Lushington' (to keep his hand from slipping)." He and Dr. Lushington from Pembroke College, "a very knowledgeable and clever man," would sometimes lock themselves in the wine cellar. First, he would set down his episcopal hat, saying, "There lies the doctor"; then, his gown, saying, "There lies the bishop"; and finally, it was "Here’s to you, Corbet" and "Here’s to you, Lushington." He passed away three years after becoming the Bishop of Norwich. "Good night, Lushington," were his last words.
II
There is also in Aubrey another such ruddy memory of a fine old gentleman—a scholar, a thoughtful and genial governor of youth, “a right Church of England man,” and President of Trinity. In gown and surplice and hood “he had a terrible gigantic aspect, with his sharp grey eyes” and snowy hair. He had a rich, digressive mind, “like a hasty pudding, where there was memory, judgment, and fancy all stirred together,” not suited to his day; and began a sermon happily, but not at all to Aubrey’s taste:—
There’s another vivid memory from Aubrey about a distinguished old gentleman—a scholar, a kind and thoughtful guide for young people, “a true Church of England man,” and the President of Trinity. In his gown, surplice, and hood, “he had a strikingly large presence, with his sharp grey eyes” and white hair. He had a rich, wandering mind, “like a hastily made pudding, where memory, judgment, and imagination were all mixed together,” which wasn’t exactly suited to his time; and he began a sermon cheerfully, but it wasn’t at all to Aubrey’s liking:—

TRINITY COLLEGE
TRINITY COLLEGE
The entrance to the College is under the tower at the west end of the Chapel, which appears towards the right of the picture.
The entrance to the College is located under the tower at the west end of the Chapel, which is shown on the right side of the picture.
The architecture of the Chapel is worthy of being seen, though the covering of green prevents this—a custom carried to excess in Oxford buildings.
The chapel’s architecture is definitely worth seeing, but the green covering makes that difficult—a practice that’s gone too far in Oxford buildings.
Opposite, at the extreme left, is a portion of the east end of the Chapel of Balliol College, and the trees are standing in that remnant of an old orchard fronting the Broad which forms the spacious approach to Trinity College.
Opposite, at the far left, is part of the east end of the Chapel of Balliol College, and the trees are located in that remnant of an old orchard facing the Broad, which creates the wide approach to Trinity College.
my study to prepare myself for my sermon, and I took down a book that had blue strings, and looked in it, and ’twas sweet Saint Bernard. I chanced to read such a part of it, on such a subject, which has made me to choose this text....”
my study to prepare for my sermon, and I picked up a book that had blue strings, looked inside, and it was sweet Saint Bernard. I happened to read a part of it about a topic that led me to choose this text....”
He concluded, says Aubrey:—
He concluded, says Aubrey:—
“‘But now I see it is time for me to shut up my book, for I see the doctors’ men come in wiping of their beards from the ale-house.’ He could from the pulpit plainly see them, and ’twas their custom in sermon to go there, and about the end of sermon to return to wait on their masters.”
“'But now I realize it's time for me to close my book, as I can see the doctors’ servants coming in, wiping their beards after being at the pub.’ He could clearly see them from the pulpit, and it was their habit to go there during the sermon and return toward the end to attend to their masters.”
Undergraduates who pleased him not were warned that he might “bring an hour-glass two hours long” into the hall. He was inexorable towards wearers of long hair, and would cut it off with “the knife that chips the bread on the buttery hatch.” It was his fashion to peep through key-holes in order to find out idlers. Says one: “He scolded the best in Latin of any one that ever he knew.” It seemed to him good discipline to keep at a high standard the beer of Trinity, because he observed that “the houses that had the smallest beer had most drunkards, for it forced them to go into the town to comfort their stomachs.” Yet in his exhortations to a temperate life, he admitted that the men of his college “ate good commons and drank good double beer, and that will get out.” And he was a man of tender and exquisite charity. When he saw that a diligent scholar was also poor, “he would many times put money in at his window,” and gave work in[Pg 246] transcription to servitors who wrote a good hand. His right foot dragged somewhat upon the ground, so that “he gave warning (like the rattlesnake) of his coming,” and an imitative wag of the college “would go so like him that sometimes he would make the whole chapel rise up, imagining he had been entering in.” The Civil War, thinks Aubrey, killed the old man, just before he would have been fifty years President. For it “much grieved him that was wont to be so absolute in the college to be affronted and disrespected by rude soldiers.” The cavaliers and their ladies invaded the college grove to the sound of lute or theorbo. Some of the gaudy women even came, “half dressed, like angels,” to morning chapel. A foot-soldier broke the President’s hour-glass. So he gathered his old russet cloth gown about him and closed his eyes upon the calamity and died, still a fresh and handsome old man.
Undergraduates who displeased him were warned that he might “bring an hourglass two hours long” into the hall. He was relentless towards those with long hair, cutting it off with “the knife that chips the bread on the buttery hatch.” It was his habit to peek through keyholes to catch idle students. One person says: “He scolded better in Latin than anyone else I ever knew.” He believed it was important to maintain a high standard for the beer at Trinity because he noticed that “the houses with the least beer had the most drunks, as it forced them to go into town to satisfy their thirst.” Yet, while encouraging a sober lifestyle, he acknowledged that the men of his college “ate good meals and drank good strong beer, and that will get out.” He was also a man of great kindness. When he saw that a hardworking student was poor, “he would often put money in at his window,” and he offered work in[Pg 246] transcription to servitors who had nice handwriting. His right foot dragged slightly on the ground, so that “he gave warning (like a rattlesnake) of his approach,” and a humorous student would mimic him so well that sometimes he would make the whole chapel stand up, thinking he had entered. Aubrey believes the Civil War led to the old man's death just before he would have turned fifty years President. It “greatly distressed him, who was used to being so authoritative in the college, to be confronted and disrespected by rude soldiers.” The cavaliers and their ladies invaded the college grove to the sound of lute or theorbo. Some of the flashy women even came, “half-dressed, like angels,” to morning chapel. A foot-soldier broke the President’s hourglass. So he wrapped his old russet cloth gown around him and closed his eyes to the calamity and died, still a lively and handsome old man.
III
John Earle, a notable scholar and divine of the seventeenth century, a fellow of Merton, and afterwards Bishop of Worcester and Bishop of Salisbury, has drawn the picture of “a downright scholar,” which I may not omit. Earle had the most concentrated style of any man of his time; each of his sentences is a document. His characters are as clear and firm as the brasses on Merton altar platform, and likely to endure as long.
John Earle, a notable scholar and clergyman of the seventeenth century, a fellow of Merton, and later Bishop of Worcester and Bishop of Salisbury, has portrayed “a true scholar,” which I can't overlook. Earle had the most focused writing style of anyone in his time; each of his sentences is a statement. His character sketches are as clear and solid as the brass on the Merton altar platform, and are likely to last just as long.

INTERIOR OF THE LIBRARY OF MERTON COLLEGE
INTERIOR OF THE LIBRARY OF MERTON COLLEGE
The newel posts, balusters, and hand-rails of the staircase leading to the ground-floor show in the centre of the picture, to the right and left of which are bookcases and the quaint “Jacobean” screens peculiar to this Library.
The newel posts, balusters, and handrails of the staircase leading to the ground floor are in the center of the picture, with bookcases on the right and left, as well as the charming “Jacobean” screens unique to this Library.
The ribbed barrel roof is covered with timber, the dormer windows which light the Library appearing on the left, over the staircase.
The ribbed barrel roof is covered with wood, and the dormer windows that light the Library are visible on the left, above the staircase.
An old oak coffer, bound with iron, is placed to the left of the staircase.
An old oak chest, reinforced with iron, is positioned to the left of the staircase.
much learning in the ore, unwrought and untried, which time and experience fashions and refines. He is good metal in the inside, though rough and unsecured without, and therefore hated of the courtier that is quite contrary. The time has got the vein of making him ridiculous, and men laugh at him by tradition, and no unlucky absurdity but is put upon his profession, and done like a scholar. But his fault is only this, that his mind is somewhat much taken up with his mind, and his thoughts not laden with any carriage besides. He has not put on the quaint garb of the age, which is now become a man’s total. He has not humbled his meditations to the industry of compliment, nor afflicted his brain in an elaborate leg. His body is not set upon nice pins, to be turning and flexible for every motion, but his scrape is homely, and his nod worse. He cannot kiss his hand and cry Madam, nor talk idly enough to bear her company. His smacking of a gentlewoman is somewhat too savoury, and he mistakes her nose for her lip. A very woodcock would puzzle him in carving, and he wants the logic of a capon. He has not the glib faculty of gliding over a tale, but his words come squeamishly out of his mouth, and the laughter commonly before the jest. He names this word College too often, and his discourse beats too much on the University. The perplexity of mannerliness will not let him feed, and he is sharp set at an argument when he should cut his meat. He is discarded for a gamester at all games but ‘one and thirty,’ and at tables he reaches not beyond doublets. His[Pg 252] fingers are not long and drawn out to handle a fiddle, but his fist is clenched with the habit of disputing. He ascends a horse somewhat sinisterly, though not on the left side, and they both go jogging in grief together. He is exceedingly censured by the Inns of Court men for that heinous vice being out of fashion. He cannot speak to a dog in his own dialect, and understands Greek better than the language of a falconer. He has been used to a dark room, and dark clothes, and his eyes dazzle at a satin doublet. The hermitage of his study makes him somewhat uncouth in the world, and men make him worse by staring on him. Thus he is silly and ridiculous, and it continues with him for some quarter of a year, out of the University. But practise him a little in men, and brush him over with good company, and he shall outbalance those glisterers as much as a solid substance does a feather, or gold gold lace.” One story is told of him. He was sharp-tempered and much beloved; his servitor was endeared to his faults, and inquired respectfully one day why his master had not boxed his ears. To which he replied “that he thought he had done so; but indeed he had forgot many things that day”; it being the day of Charles I.’s execution. Whereat the servitor wept, and received the admonition unexpectedly for his pains.[Pg 253]
There's a lot of potential in him that's still untapped and untested, which time and experience will shape and improve. He's good at heart, but he comes across as rough and unrefined, which makes him disliked by the polished courtiers who are the complete opposite. Society has made him a target for ridicule, and people laugh at him out of habit; every silly mistake is associated with his profession, making it look like it's part of being a scholar. His only fault is that he often overthinks and isn't burdened with any practical concerns. He hasn't adopted the trendy style of the time, which has become the norm for men. He hasn't lowered his deep thoughts to fit in with the demands of social niceties, nor has he tortured his brain to sound eloquent. He doesn't have the fancy posture required to be graceful in every movement; instead, he has a rough way of carrying himself. He can't kiss his hand and say "Madam," nor can he engage in light conversation enough to keep a lady's company. His way of approaching a woman is a bit too direct, and he confuses her nose with her lips. Even a simpleton would confuse him when it comes to carving food, and he lacks the wit of a simple chicken. He doesn't have the smooth ability to tell a story; instead, his words awkwardly come out, often provoking laughter before the punchline. He mentions "College" too often, and his conversations revolve too much around the University. He's so caught up in his ideals that he can't focus on eating, and he's eager for a debate when he should be cutting food. He's been dismissed as a player at all games except for one called ‘one and thirty,’ and he doesn't get far in board games. His fingers aren't long and nimble enough to play an instrument, but his fist is clenched from arguing. He mounts a horse clumsily, even if it’s not from the left side, and they both plod along sadly together. The men from the Inns of Court judge him harshly for being out of touch with current trends. He can't even talk to a dog in its language and understands Greek better than what a falconer would say. He's grown accustomed to dim rooms and dark clothing, and bright fabrics give him a shock. The isolation of his studies makes him a bit awkward in public, and people make it worse by staring at him. This makes him look foolish and ridiculous, and he's been like this for about a quarter of a year since leaving the University. But if he mingles a bit with others and gets involved with good company, he'll stand out compared to those glittering show-offs just like a solid object stands out against a feather, or gold compared to gold lace. There's a story about him: he was quick-tempered yet much liked; one day, his servant, who loved him despite his faults, asked why he hadn’t slapped him. He replied, “I thought I had, but honestly, I forgot a lot that day,” referring to the day of Charles I’s execution. This made the servant cry, and unexpectedly, he received a lesson for his trouble.
UNDERGRADUATES OF THE PRESENT AND THE PAST
CHAPTER IV
UNDERGRADUATES OF THE PRESENT AND THE PAST
Now
What a thing it is to be an undergraduate of the University of Oxford! Next to being a great poet or a financier, there is nothing so absolute open to a man. For several years he is the nursling of a great tradition in a fair city: and the memory of it is above his chief joy. His follies are hallowed, his successes exalted, by the dispensation of the place. Surely the very air whispers of wisdom and the beautiful, he thinks—
What’s up an experience it is to be an undergraduate at the University of Oxford! Next to being a great poet or a successful financier, there’s nothing more fully available to a person. For several years, he is a cherished part of a rich tradition in a beautiful city, and the memory of it becomes his greatest happiness. His mistakes are honored, his accomplishments celebrated, by the spirit of the place. Surely, he thinks, the very air is filled with wisdom and beauty—
That time is the one luxury he never regrets. It is a second childhood, as blithe and untroubled as the first, and with this advantage over the first: that it is not only good, but he knows that it is good. What games! what books! what walks! what affections! are his. Time passes, we say, although it is we—like children that see the square fields receding from their swift train—that pass. Yet, with these things in Oxford, he seems to lure time a little way with him[Pg 256] upon the road. The liberty of a man and the license of a child are his together. Of course, he abuses them. He uses them, too. Hence the admirable independence of the undergraduate, which has drawn upon him the excommunication of those whose concern is with the colour and cut of clothes. He is the only true Bohemian, because he cannot help it—does not try to be—and does not know it. He is the true Democrat, and condescension is far less common than servility in his domain. He alone keeps quite inviolate the principle of freedom of speech. It is indeed true that, as anywhere else, fools are exclusive as regards clever men and different kinds of fools; and snobs, as regards all but themselves. But theirs is a rare and lonely life. At Christ Church they have actually a pool, in the centre of their great quadrangle, for the baptism of those who have not learned these fine traditions; it is appropriately called after Mercury, to whom men used to sacrifice pigs, and especially lambs and young goats. And there is no college in Oxford where any but the incompatible are kept apart, and few where that distinction is really preserved. As befits a prince in his own palace, the undergraduate usually dispenses with hypocrisy and secrecy, and thus gives an opportunity to the imaginative stranger. Such an one drew a lurid picture of a horde of wealthy bacchanals, making night hideous with the tormenting of a poor scholar. It was not said whether the sufferer was in the habit of doing nasty and dishonourable things, or had funked at football, or worn ringlets over his collar: it was[Pg 258][Pg 257]
That time is the one luxury he never regrets. It’s like a second childhood, just as carefree and easygoing as the first, but with one advantage: it’s not just enjoyable, he actually realizes how great it is. What games! What books! What strolls! What friendships! He has it all. Time passes, we say, but really it’s us—like kids watching the square fields zooming by from a fast train—that are moving on. Yet, with all these experiences in Oxford, he seems to draw time a little closer with him on his journey. He enjoys both the freedom of an adult and the freedom of a child. Of course, he takes advantage of that. He uses them, too. Hence the impressive independence of the undergraduate, which has resulted in the disapproval of those focused on fashion. He is the only true Bohemian because he can’t help it—he doesn’t try to be and doesn’t even realize it. He is the true Democrat, and condescension is much less common than servility in his world. He alone maintains the principle of free speech without compromise. It’s true that, like anywhere else, fools can be exclusive regarding smart people and various types of fools, and snobs concerning everyone but themselves. But theirs is a rare and lonely existence. At Christ Church, they actually have a pool in the center of their large quad, meant for the initiation of those who haven’t learned these great traditions; it’s fittingly named after Mercury, to whom people used to sacrifice pigs, especially lambs and young goats. There isn’t a college in Oxford that keeps anyone apart except for those who really can’t get along, and few where that separation is genuinely maintained. As befits a prince in his own palace, the undergraduate usually skips hypocrisy and secrecy, which gives a chance for the imaginative outsider. One such person created a dramatic scene of a group of wealthy partygoers, making the night unbearable for a poor scholar. It wasn’t mentioned whether the victim was known for engaging in nasty and dishonorable behavior, had chickened out at football, or had worn ringlets over his collar: it was

CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE—TOM QUADRANGLE
Christ Church College—Tom Quad
The front of the picture is occupied by part of the basin of the fountain, from the centre of which rises a pedestal bearing a figure in bronze of “Mercury” (restored). In reality the figure no longer shows above the water-lilies in the basin, but engravings of views of the Quadrangle in the eighteenth century, in which a figure of Mercury appears, are still to be seen, and the fountain was once called “The Mercury.”
The front of the picture shows part of the fountain basin, from the center of which rises a pedestal with a restored bronze figure of “Mercury.” In reality, the figure is no longer visible above the water-lilies in the basin, but engravings from the eighteenth century depicting views of the Quadrangle, where a figure of Mercury can be seen, are still available, and the fountain was once called “The Mercury.”
The entrance gateway to the College and a portion of Tom Tower appear in the background.
The entrance gate to the College and part of Tom Tower are visible in the background.
almost certainly one of the remarkable efforts of imagination which are frequently devoted to that famous city and its inhabitants. The patience of the undergraduate is extreme. It is extended to tradesmen and to the sounds of the Salvation Army. He greets bimetallists with tenderness, teetotallers with awe, and vegetarians with a kind of rapture, tempered by a rare spurt of scientific inquiry. If he makes an exception against sentimentalism, he relents in favour of that place, “so late their happy seat,” when he goes down. Mr. Belloc has put that retrospection classically:—
almost certainly one of the amazing displays of imagination that are often dedicated to that famous city and its people. The patience of the undergraduate is incredible. It extends to shopkeepers and the sounds of the Salvation Army. He welcomes bimetallists with kindness, teetotalers with respect, and vegetarians with a sort of delight, mixed with a rare burst of scientific curiosity. If he usually rejects sentimentality, he softens when it comes to that place, “so late their happy seat,” when he leaves. Mr. Belloc has captured that reflection perfectly:—
Where everything we loved is always precious,
We greet our morning directly, And finally reach our twentieth year....
It is true; and it might be true:
It might be the opposite; I can't say for sure. But I do know this:
Out to the unknown ends,
There’s nothing worth the effort of winning,
But the joy of laughter and the love of friends. I'm sorry, but it seems you've provided a placeholder without the text to be modernized. Please share the text you'd like me to work on!
But something is fading, oh! my friends,
And something deceives the heart and moves on,
And Tom who aimed to change the years Has turned into just clinking glasses.[Pg 262]
And He, the Father of the Flock,
Is keeping Burmese people in order,
An outcast on a remote island,
That overlooks the China border.
Ah! Will future generations believe it—
Not only don't deserve success, But hasn’t been able to achieve it.
But—one is married, one has left,
One is a Don, and the other is in Burmah.
It seems that you've provided only a series of dots without any text to modernize. Please provide the text you’d like me to modernize, and I’ll be happy to assist!
And oh! the days, the days, the days,
When all four of them were out together; The endless expanse of summer haze,
The loud pride of autumn weather!
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I won't try to reach out again,
I won't set out on my own,
To tie up a boat without any crew At the small stone docks of Yarnton.
And cover my eyes with my hands,
And follow to satisfy my heart's desire,
The final chapter of all our journeys.
Under an open sky, we rode,
And mixed with a drifting fog Along the perfect Evenlode....
I
The average man seldom gets into a book, though he often writes one. Yet who would not like to paint him or have him painted, for once and for ever! And, a fortiori, who would not wish the same for the average[Pg 263] undergraduate? I can but hint at his glories, as in an architect’s elevation. For he is neither rich nor poor, neither tall nor short, neither of aristocratic birth nor ignobly bred. Briefly, Providence has shielded him from the pain and madness of extremes. He plays football, cricket, rackets, hockey, golf, tennis, croquet, whist, poker, bridge. In neither will he excel; yet in some one he will for an hour be conspicuous, if only at a garden-party or on a village green. He never rashly ventures in the matter of dress, and when his friends who are above the average are wearing very green tweeds, he will be just green enough to be passable, and yet so subdued as not to be questioned by those who stick to grey. He is never punctual; on the other hand, he is never very late. In conversation, he will avoid eloquence for fear of long-windedness, and silence for fear of appearing original or rude: at most, he will be frivolous to the extent of remarking, about a pretty face, ‘Oh, she is alpha plus!’ As a freshman only will he make any great mistakes. Thus, he will have several meerschaums; will assemble at a wine party the most incompatible men, and conclude it by all but losing his self-respect; and will for a term use Oxford slang as if it were a chosen tongue, and learn a few witticisms at the expense of shopkeepers, if he is free by the accident of birth. But he will speedily forget these things and become a person with blunt and tender consideration for others, and may be popular because of his excellent cigarettes or his ready listening. He will in a few years learn to row honestly, if not[Pg 264] brilliantly; to know what is fitting to be said and read in the matter of books; to discuss the theatre, the government, the cricket season, in an inoffensive way. Add to this pale vision the colouring implied by a college hat-band and a decent, ruddy face, and you have the not too vigorous or listless, manly man, with modest bearing and fearless voice, who plays his part so well in life, and now and then—on a punt, or at a wedding—reveals to the discerning observer his university. The late Grant Allen knew him by his broad, brown back, and his habit of bathing in winter in a rough sea.
The average guy rarely gets into a book, even though he often writes one. Yet, who wouldn’t want to capture his essence or have it showcased, just once and for all! And, even more so, who wouldn’t want the same for the typical undergraduate? I can only hint at his talents, like in an architect’s sketch. He’s neither rich nor poor, neither tall nor short, and isn’t from a posh background nor a lowly one. In short, fate has protected him from the struggles and chaos of extremes. He plays football, cricket, squash, hockey, golf, tennis, croquet, whist, poker, and bridge. He may not excel in any of them; however, he will stand out for an hour in one game, even if it’s just at a garden party or on a village green. He doesn’t take big risks with his wardrobe; when his more fashionable friends are rocking very green tweeds, he’ll be just green enough to fit in, but not so flashy that those who stick to grey will question him. He’s never on time, but he’s not usually very late either. In conversation, he avoids being too eloquent for fear of being long-winded and stays quiet to avoid seeming original or rude: at most, he might frivolously comment about a pretty face, “Oh, she is alpha plus!” Only as a freshman will he make any major blunders. He’ll own several meerschaums, gather the most unlikely crowd at a wine party, and nearly lose his self-respect by the end; he’ll also use Oxford slang for a term as if it were a second language and pick up a few jokes at the expense of shopkeepers, if he has the privilege of birth. But he will quickly forget these things and turn into someone who shows blunt yet gentle consideration for others, and might become popular for his great cigarettes or his knack for listening. In just a few years, he’ll learn to row decently, if not exceptionally; he’ll know what’s appropriate to say and read about books; and he’ll discuss the theater, government, and cricket season in a way that doesn't offend. Add to this faint image the flavor suggested by a college hat band and a decent, healthy face, and you have the not overly tired or lazy, manly man, with a humble demeanor and confident voice, who plays his role well in life and now and then—while on a punt or at a wedding—shows, to the keen observer, his university roots. The late Grant Allen recognized him by his broad, brown back and his habit of swimming in the winter in a rough sea.
II
He has come to Oxford, much as a man of old would have come to some fabled island, out beyond the pillars of Hercules; for even so Oxford is out beyond the world which he knows—
He has arrived in Oxford, much like someone from ancient times would have arrived at a mythical island, far beyond the pillars of Hercules; because in the same way, Oxford is beyond the world he knows—
Perhaps his schoolmasters have been Oxford men. But that has not disillusioned him. He has been in the habit of thinking of them as men who, for some fault or misfortune, have come back from the fortunate islands, discontented or empty. They have not known how to use the place: he knows, or will learn to know; and he dreams of it in his peaceful country school, or at a London school, where boys go as to a place of business, and make verses as others cast accounts. To[Pg 265] some Oxford men, Matthew Arnold’s “Thyrsis” is the finest poem that was ever written; and he knows it by heart already; has sighed ignorantly over it; and as his train draws near to Oxford, he repeats it to himself, with a most fantastic fervour, as if it were half a prayer and half a love-song, and certainly more than half his own. The pleasant excited uncertainty, as to whether he has seen the Fyfield elm, or whether that oaken slope was Cumnor, and his happy surmises while his eye skips from tower to tower in the distance, blind him to the drizzling, holiday air of the platform: he has no time to remember how it differs from Eastbourne: he is so set upon beholding the High Street that he is indifferent to the tram and the mean streets, and is not reminded of Wandsworth. The cabman is to him a supernal, Olympian cabman. He pays the man heavily, and quotes from Sophocles as he steps through the lodge gate, amid the greetings of porter, messenger, and a scout or two. The magnificent quadrangle gives a dignity to his walk that is laughable to senior men. He goes from room to room, making his choice, and knows not whether to be attracted by the spaciousness of one suite, or the miniature sufficiency of another,—the wainscot of a third, the traditions of a fourth, or the view from a fifth.
Maybe his teachers were from Oxford. But that hasn't disillusioned him. He’s gotten used to thinking of them as people who, for some reason or bad luck, have returned from the lucky islands feeling unfulfilled or empty. They didn’t know how to appreciate the place: he knows, or will learn to know; and he dreams of it in his quiet countryside school or at a London school, where boys attend like it's a job and write poems just like others do their accounting. To[Pg 265] some Oxford guys, Matthew Arnold’s “Thyrsis” is the greatest poem ever written; and he already knows it by heart, having sighed over it without fully understanding it. As his train approaches Oxford, he repeats it to himself with a wild enthusiasm, as if it's part prayer and part love song, and definitely more than half his own. The pleasant thrill of not knowing if he’s seen the Fyfield elm or if that sloped oak was Cumnor, along with his joyful guesses as his eyes dart from tower to tower in the distance, makes him ignore the drizzly, holiday-like atmosphere of the platform: he doesn’t take a moment to think about how it’s different from Eastbourne. He’s so focused on seeing the High Street that he doesn’t care about the tram or the shabby streets, and he doesn’t think of Wandsworth. To him, the cab driver is a god-like figure. He pays the guy well and quotes Sophocles as he steps through the lodge gate, greeted by the porter, messenger, and a couple of scouts. The grand quadrangle gives a dignity to his walk that seems hilarious to the older students. He moves from room to room, trying to decide, unsure whether to be won over by the spaciousness of one suite, the cozy charm of another, the paneling of a third, the history of a fourth, or the view from a fifth.
In the evening, at dinner in the college hall, he puts all of his emotion into the grace before meat, and by his slow, loving utterance robs the fellows of their chairs and the undergraduates of their talk. He scans curiously the healthy or clever or human faces of his[Pg 266] contemporaries at the table. As all visible things are symbols, he supposes that something, which he is too inexperienced to understand, distinguishes these youths from the others with similar faces in London or elsewhere. He answers a few questions about his school and his athletic record. Then he falls back upon the coats of arms and the founders’ portraits on the walls, and is glad when he has returned to his room. There, the unpacking and arrangement of a hundred books fill the hours until long after midnight. For he kneels and opens and reads a page, and dreams and reopens, and goes to the window, to listen or watch. Not a book but he finds flat and uninspired, and quite unworthy of his first Oxford night. He wants something more megalophonous than De Quincey, more perfect than Pater, more fantastic than Browne, more sweet than Newman,—something that shall be witty, spiritual, gay, and solemn in a breath,—something in short that was never yet written by pen and ink, although often inspired by a night like this.
In the evening, during dinner in the college hall, he puts all his emotion into the grace before the meal, and with his slow, heartfelt voice, he distracts the other students from their seats and the undergraduates from their conversations. He curiously scans the healthy, bright, or relatable faces of his[Pg 266] peers at the table. Since all visible things hold meaning, he suspects that something, which he is too inexperienced to grasp, sets these young people apart from others with similar faces in London or elsewhere. He answers a few questions about his school and his athletic achievements. Then he turns his attention to the coats of arms and the founders’ portraits on the walls, feeling relieved when he finally returns to his room. There, unpacking and organizing a hundred books keeps him busy until well past midnight. He kneels, opens and reads a page, dreams and reopens it, then goes to the window to listen or watch. Not a single book meets his expectations; he finds them flat and uninspired, completely unworthy of his first night at Oxford. He longs for something more magnificent than De Quincey, more perfect than Pater, more fantastic than Browne, sweeter than Newman—something that is witty, spiritual, cheerful, and serious all at once—something, in short, that has never been written with pen and ink, though often inspired by a night like this.
Shading each other with their numbers,
And shouted, Freedom!
And so he sleeps; but in spite of his great dreams, he is not disappointed when he looks out upon the glorious company of the spires and towers of Oxford. He rises early, and is surprised when he meets only the college cat in the quadrangle, and the gate is[Pg 267] shut. But he returns quite cheerfully to his room, to read Virgil while the dreamy sky is still tender with the parting touch of night.
And so he sleeps; but despite his big dreams, he isn’t let down when he looks out at the stunning view of the spires and towers of Oxford. He wakes up early and is surprised to find only the college cat in the courtyard, and the gate is[Pg 267] shut. But he happily goes back to his room to read Virgil while the dreamy sky is still softly lit by the fading night.
After breakfast, and some disbursements to porter and scout, he begins to make acquaintances, over a newspaper in the junior common room, or at a preliminary visit to his tutor. With one, he walks up and down High Street: he learns which are the tailors and which are not. With another, he goes out to Parson’s Pleasure, and likes the willows of Mesopotamia, and sees New College Tower: he wants to loiter in the churchyard of Holy Cross, but is scornfully reminded that Byron did much the same. Queen’s College inspires his companion with the remark that Queen in Oxford is called “Quagger.” The Martyr’s Memorial calls forth “Maggers Memugger”; Worcester, “Wuggins”; Jesus, “Jaggers”: and he is much derided when he supposes that the scouts use these terms.
After breakfast, and after giving some tips to the porter and scout, he starts meeting new people, either over a newspaper in the junior common room or during a preliminary visit to his tutor. With one person, he strolls up and down High Street, learning which places are tailors and which aren’t. With another, he heads out to Parson’s Pleasure, enjoys the willows by the river, and sees New College Tower. He wants to hang out in the churchyard of Holy Cross but is mockingly reminded that Byron did the same thing. Queen's College inspires his friend to say that Queen in Oxford is called “Quagger.” The Martyr’s Memorial gets the nickname “Maggers Memugger”; Worcester is referred to as “Wuggins”; and Jesus is called “Jaggers”: he gets teased a lot when he suggests that the scouts use these names.
After luncheon, he cannot get free, but must watch football or the humours of “tubbing” on the river. His companions, with all the easy omniscience of public-school boys, are so busy telling him what’s what, that he learns little of what is. And at tea, he is as wise as they, and has the tired emotion of one who has been through fairyland on a motor car.
After lunch, he can't break free, but has to watch football or the antics of "tubbing" on the river. His friends, with the casual confidence of public school boys, are so caught up in explaining everything to him that he learns very little about what’s actually going on. By tea time, he’s just as knowledgeable as they are and feels the drained emotion of someone who’s just sped through a fairyland in a sports car.
A week in this style broadens his horizon; his optimism, still strong, embraces mankind and excludes most men. A series of teas with senior men and a crowd of contemporaries fails to exhilarate him. The[Pg 268] shy are silent: the rest talk about their schools; appear advanced men of the world; and shock their seniors, who in their turn dispense tales about dons, and useful information: and he feels ashamed to be silent and contemptuous of what is said. His grace in hall has become so portentous that his neighbour hums the Dead March in Saul by way of accompaniment.
A week in this style expands his perspective; his optimism, still strong, embraces humanity while excluding most individuals. A series of tea gatherings with older men and a group of peers doesn't uplift him. The shy ones are quiet: the others talk about their schools; they seem like sophisticated, worldly people; and they shock their elders, who in turn share stories about professors and useful tips. He feels embarrassed to be silent and looks down on what’s being said. His presence in the dining hall has become so heavy that his neighbor quietly hums the Dead March from Saul as a sort of accompaniment.
With some misgiving he goes alone to his room, sports his oak—which others so often do for him when he is out—and puts his room in order. His college shield, brilliantly and incorrectly blazoned, hangs above the door. Photographs of his newest acquaintances rest for the time upon his desk. He has not yet learned to respect the photograph of a Botticelli above the mantelpiece, and has tucked under its frame a caricature of some college worthy, with visiting-cards, notes of invitation, a table of work, and his first menu. On the mantelpiece are photographs that recall tenderer things, along with his meerschaum and straight-grained briar. For a minute he is interrupted by a kick, an undeniable shout, a cigar, and behind it the captain of Rugby football.
With some hesitation, he heads to his room alone, puts on his oak—which others usually wear for him when he’s out—and tidies up. His college crest, brightly and inaccurately displayed, hangs over the door. Photos of his latest friends temporarily sit on his desk. He hasn’t yet learned to appreciate the Botticelli picture above the mantel, so he has tucked a caricature of a college figure under its frame, along with business cards, invitations, a to-do list, and his first menu. On the mantelpiece are photos that bring back warmer memories, alongside his meerschaum pipe and straight-grained briar. For a moment, he’s interrupted by a kick, an unmistakable shout, a cigar, and behind it stands the captain of the Rugby team.
“Can you play?” says the captain.
“Can you play?” the captain asks.
“I have never tried,” says the freshman, modestly.
“I’ve never tried,” says the freshman, modestly.
The captain retires, after conferring an indignity in pert monosyllables, and familiarly inquiring after “all your aunts.”
The captain retires, after hurling an insult in sharp one-word replies and casually asking about “all your aunts.”
“How do you know I have any aunts, Mr.——?” he inquires.
“How do you know I have any aunts, Mr.——?” he asks.

HOLYWELL CHURCH
Holywell Church
Holywell is the Campo Santo of Oxford, and many names famous in her history are found there.
Holywell is the cemetery of Oxford, and many well-known names from its history are buried there.
The almost ruined cottage and desolate garden make a suitable foreground.
The nearly destroyed cottage and empty garden create a fitting foreground.
The view is from the north-west.
The view is from the northwest.
nephew without an aunt, and I am sure you couldn’t do without several.”
nephew without an aunt, and I'm sure you couldn't manage without a few.
“I wonder why he came to Oxford,” reflects the freshman.
“I wonder why he came to Oxford,” thinks the freshman.
“He’s mistaken his calling,” chuckles the other on the way downstairs.
“He’s got his priorities mixed up,” laughs the other on the way downstairs.
The freshman lights his meerschaum (holding it in a silk handkerchief), and begins to make a plan for three or four years. But he never completes it. He believes Oxford to be as a fine sculptor, and wishes to put himself in its hands in such a way as to be best shapen by the experience, in a “wise passiveness.” He wants to be a scholar, and fears to be a pedant. He wants to learn a wise and graceful habit with his fellow-men, and fears to be what he hears called a gentleman. He wants to test his enthusiasm and prejudices, and fears to be a Philistine. He wants to taste pleasure delicately, and fears to be a viveur or an æsthete. None of these aims is altogether conscious or precise; yet it is some such combination that he sees before him, faint and possible, at the end of three or four years. Nor has he any aim beyond that. He will work, but at what? Neither has he realised that he will be alone and unhelped.
The freshman lights his meerschaum (holding it in a silk handkerchief) and starts to make plans for the next three or four years. But he never finishes them. He thinks of Oxford as a great sculptor and wants to submit himself to its influence to be shaped by the experience in a “wise passiveness.” He aims to be a scholar but worries about becoming a pedant. He wants to develop a thoughtful and graceful way of interacting with others but fears he might just be labeled a gentleman. He seeks to challenge his enthusiasm and biases but is concerned about being seen as a Philistine. He hopes to enjoy pleasure in a refined way while fearing he may turn into a viveur or an æsthete. None of these goals is entirely clear or well-defined; yet, he envisions some mix of them, faint and achievable, at the end of three or four years. He has no other aspirations beyond that. He plans to work, but at what? He hasn’t realized yet that he will be alone and without support.
At first the loneliness is a great, and even at times a delirious, pleasure; and whether he is in a church, or in the fields, or among books, it is almost sensual, and never critical. Oxford is, as it were, doing his living for him. He is as powerless to influence the passage of his days as to plan the architecture of his[Pg 274] dreams. He only awakens at his meals with contemporaries, and sometimes at interviews with tutors. The former find him dull and superior. The latter tell him that in his work he is indeed gathering honey, but filling no combs; and find him ungainly and vague. He consoles himself with the reflection that he is not becoming a pedant or a careless liver. He writes verses to celebrate the melodious days he lives. All influences of men fall idly upon him—
At first, the loneliness feels amazing, even at times a bit intoxicating; whether he’s in a church, out in the fields, or surrounded by books, it’s almost pleasurable and never judgmental. Oxford seems to be living his life for him. He’s as unable to change how his days go by as he is to design the structure of his[Pg 274] dreams. He only really engages during meals with other students and occasionally during meetings with tutors. The students find him boring and aloof. The tutors tell him that while he’s indeed creating beautiful work, he’s not really achieving anything substantial, and they see him as awkward and vague. He reassures himself that he’s not becoming a know-it-all or a slacker. He writes poems to celebrate the beautiful days he experiences. All the influences of others affect him only lightly—
The digressive habit of mind not only grows upon him; he cultivates it. His tutor says that it is impossible to give a title to his best essays. Long, lonely evenings with books only encourage the habit. But he can defend it, and laughs at criticism. Shakespeare’s dramas, he says, flow through the centuries, like the Nile; his flood is not so vast, that it may not be aggrandised by many a tributary. It has come down to us vaster than when it reached Milton or Gray, not only by definite commentary, but by the shy emotions of a myriad readers. We add to it, he says triumphantly, by our digressions; and what revelation it may make in consequence, to a far future generation, we cannot guess. In his pursuit of words, which soon enthrall him, he goes far, rather than deep. Wherever the word has been cherished for its own sake, in all “decadent” literature, he makes his mind a home. He begins to write, but in a style[Pg 275] which, along with his ornate penmanship, would occupy a lifetime, and result in one brochure or half a dozen sonnets. It is a kind of higher philately. But it takes him to strange and fascinating byways in literature. He loves the grotesque. Now and then, he lets fall a quotation or even a dissertation on such a book at dinner, and suddenly he is launched into popularity.
The habit of digressing not only grows on him; he nurtures it. His tutor claims that it's impossible to title his best essays. Long, lonely evenings with books only reinforce this habit. But he can justify it and laughs off the criticism. Shakespeare’s plays, he says, flow through the centuries like the Nile; its flow isn't so vast that it can't be enriched by many tributaries. It has come down to us larger than when it reached Milton or Gray, not just through specific commentary but through the subtle emotions of countless readers. We add to it, he asserts proudly, with our digressions; and what revelations it may bring to a future generation, we can only imagine. In his quest for words, which soon captivate him, he goes wide rather than deep. Wherever a word is cherished for its own sake, in all “decadent” literature, he makes that his mental home. He starts writing, but in a style[Pg 275] that, combined with his elaborate penmanship, would take a lifetime to perfect and result in one brochure or a handful of sonnets. It's a kind of higher philately. But it leads him down strange and fascinating paths in literature. He loves the bizarre. Occasionally, he drops a quote or even a lengthy discussion about a book at dinner, and suddenly he finds himself popular.
First he is hailed as a decadent, and shrinks. When the shrinking is over, he secretly falls in love with the half-contemptuous title, and seeks others who accept it. Now he is never by himself. Those with whom he has no sympathies like him because he happens to know Pantagruel and a few books such as some undergraduates keep between false covers. His room is fragrant with unseasonable flowers, with the perfume of burning juniper, burning cassia, and cedar, and sweet oils. What if the honourable ghosts of Oxford frown upon his strange devotions? He is at least living a life that could not persist elsewhere. At chapel, he is reading Theophrastus. He is studying an undercurrent of the Italian Renaissance at a lecture on Thucydides. As if he were to live for ever, and in Oxford, his existence is such that his stay in Oxford or in life becomes precarious. He is reputed to be a connoisseur in wines, pictures, and sixteenth-century furniture. He is a Roman Catholic by profession, an agnostic by conviction; yet no religion or superstition is quite safe from his patronage. He mistakes the recrudescence of childishness for a sad and wise maturity. Freshmen are struck by his listless gaiety and the unkind[Pg 276] and seeming wise solemnity of his light expressions. If to sit sumptuous and still, to discourse melodiously of everything or nothing, to be courteous, sentimental, cold, and rude in turns, were wisdom, he is wise. He acquires the lofty cynicism of the under-informed and the over-fed. He can talk with ease and point, about the merely married don, about virtue as the fine which the timid pay to the bold, about the dulness of enthusiasm and the strange beauty of grey. At what is temperate and modest he throws satire with a bitterness enhanced by a secret affection for what he lapidates. Like a man who should paint an angel and call it a thief, he narrowly pursues his own choicest veiled gifts with a malicious word. In short, his brilliant conversation proves how much easier it is to think what one says than to say what one thinks. Yet is he now a harder student than he has ever been, and allows nothing to disturb him at his books. He has nodded at European literatures through half their courses, in the lonely hours when his companions are asleep. He is planning again, and realises that it would be a showy thing to get a first class. His conversation becomes gloomy as well as bitter. People suspect that he means what he says; and he mutters in explanation that experience is the basis of life and the ruin of philosophies. His friends simply accept the remark as untrue. He is now often reduced to silence among those who sleep well. He no longer pours a current of fresh and illuminating thought upon things which he not only does not understand, but does not care for, in politics or art.[Pg 277]
First, he’s celebrated as a decadent, and he retreats. Once that phase passes, he secretly falls for the somewhat scornful title and looks for others who accept it. Now he’s never alone. Those he doesn’t relate to like him because he happens to know Pantagruel and a few books tucked between false covers that some undergraduates keep. His room smells of out-of-season flowers, incense from burning juniper, cassia, and cedar, along with sweet oils. So what if the esteemed ghosts of Oxford disapprove of his unusual passions? At least he’s living a life that couldn’t exist anywhere else. At chapel, he’s reading Theophrastus. He’s diving into the undercurrents of the Italian Renaissance during a Thucydides lecture. As if he’ll live forever in Oxford, his existence is such that his time there or in life feels uncertain. He’s seen as a wine, art, and sixteenth-century furniture expert. He’s a Roman Catholic by choice and an agnostic by belief; yet no religion or superstition is entirely safe from his interest. He confuses a return to childishness with deep and wise maturity. Freshmen are struck by his lazy joy and the seemingly wise solemnity of his light-hearted comments. If being indulgent and still, discussing everything and nothing, being polite, emotional, indifferent, and rude all at once, equates to wisdom, then he is wise. He adopts the lofty cynicism of those who are uninformed and overindulged. He can casually and pointedly discuss the recently married professor, virtue as the fine paid by the timid to the bold, the dullness of enthusiasm, and the strange beauty of gray. Toward what is moderate and modest, he hurls satire with a bitterness fueled by a secret fondness for what he criticizes. Like a man who should paint an angel and call it a thief, he fiercely targets his most cherished hidden talents with a sharp word. In short, his brilliant conversations reveal how much easier it is to think of what one says than to articulate what one truly thinks. Yet now he’s a harder student than ever, letting nothing disturb him while he studies. He’s glanced at European literatures throughout half their courses during quiet hours when his friends are asleep. He’s planning again and realizes it would be flashy to achieve a first class. His conversations grow both gloomy and bitter. People suspect he means what he says; and he mutters in response that experience is the foundation of life and the downfall of philosophies. His friends simply accept this comment as untrue. He often finds himself silent around those who sleep soundly. He no longer shares a stream of fresh and enlightening thoughts on topics he neither understands nor cares about, whether in politics or art.
He slips out of brilliant company, to enter occasionally among religious circles where they are tolerant of lost sheep, and has begun to pay his smaller bills and to find out what books he must read for a degree, when the examination day arrives. Then he borrows his old dignified look of indolence in the sultry schools, while he writes hard, and secures a second class by means of a legible handwriting, clear style, and amusing irrelevance. He goes down, alone, still with a fascinating tongue, desperate, and yet careless of success, ready to do anything so long as he can escape comfortable and conventional persons, and quite unable to be anything conspicuous, but a man who has been to the garden of the Hesperides and brought back apples that he alone can make appear to be golden in his rare moments of health.
He steps away from exciting company to occasionally join religious groups that are accepting of lost souls. He has started to pay his smaller bills and is figuring out which books he needs to read for his degree as the exam day approaches. Then he adopts his old, dignified look of laziness in the sweltering classrooms while he works hard, and manages to get a second class degree thanks to his neat handwriting, clear style, and entertaining digressions. He goes down alone, still charming with his words, desperate yet indifferent to success, willing to do anything just to avoid comfortable and conventional people, and unable to stand out as anything other than a man who has visited the garden of the Hesperides and returned with apples that he alone can make seem golden in his rare moments of wellness.
III
He is one who knows that three or four years at the University is a good investment. He comes up with an open scorn of idlers, both gilded and gifted. Whether he is clever and successful or not, he has a suspicion that dons are underworked, colleges expensive hotels or worse, and is determined to change all that. Not infrequently such a one is perverted by a happy evening with a few acquaintances, early in his first term. If he is not, he is a white elephant. The dons are alarmed by his instructions, the undergraduates by his clothes. “If this were not an old conservative creek,” he seems to say, “promotion would go by merit, and I should[Pg 278] soon be at the top of the tree and begin repairs.” But the University remains unchanged.
He knows that spending three or four years at the University is a smart investment. He approaches it with a clear disdain for lazy people, whether they have privilege or talent. Whether he’s clever and successful or not, he suspects that professors are overpaid, colleges are just fancy hotels or worse, and he’s determined to change things. Often, he gets sidetracked by a fun night with a few friends early in his first term. If he doesn’t, he becomes irrelevant. The professors are worried about his ideas, and the undergrads are put off by his style. “If this weren’t such an old-fashioned place,” he seems to say, “promotions would be based on merit, and I would[Pg 278] quickly rise to the top and start making changes.” But the University stays the same.
He looks about him for a more stealthy passage to his ends.
He looks around for a sneakier way to achieve his goals.
A vernal impulse, it may be, sends him to a tailor’s shop, and in the unwonted resplendence that follows he is almost a butterfly. In a jocular spirit he calls upon the persons whose invitations he used to ignore. If he is clever or amusing, or apparently labouring under a delusion, he is liked. In his turn he is called upon. He begins to find that there is something in himself which has a taste for all that is human. Homo sum, he mutters, with one of the classical quotations which are to his taste. He will dally with the multitude for an hour or two,—a week,—why not for a term? When he is in the company of the sons of old or wealthy families, it occurs to him that rank and wealth are powerful: it follows, and can be demonstrated, that the power cannot be more justly exercised than in the furthering of honest and meritorious poverty. He will make a concession; possibly another visit to a tailor; perhaps a little champagne. Several discoveries follow.
A springtime urge, perhaps, leads him to a tailor's shop, and in the unexpected splendor that comes after, he feels almost like a butterfly. In a playful mood, he reaches out to the people whose invitations he used to turn down. If he’s clever or funny, or seemingly lost in his thoughts, people like him. In return, he finds himself being invited. He starts to notice something within himself that appreciates everything human. Homo sum, he murmurs, quoting a classic that he enjoys. He’ll hang out with the crowd for an hour or two—maybe a week—why not even a term? When he’s around the sons of old or wealthy families, he realizes that social status and wealth hold power: it follows, and can be proven, that this power should be best used to support honest and deserving poverty. He decides to make a concession; maybe another trip to the tailor; perhaps a little champagne. Several new insights follow.
It would be not only difficult, but contemptible, to play football or to row; yet he can learn to play lawn tennis. He is presently quite at home, if not in love, at garden parties. He mistakes the curious interest of men and women, in one who is entirely different from themselves, for a compliment to his adaptability.
It would be not only hard but also shameful to play football or to row; yet he can learn to play lawn tennis. He is currently quite comfortable, if not in love, at garden parties. He confuses the curious interest of men and women in someone who is completely different from them with a compliment to his adaptability.
Society bores him rapidly. He has had enough of[Pg 279] vacation visits and picnics during the term, and revives his acquaintance with work and the indolent fellows. But that is not necessarily attractive. Also, his friends and admirers will not let him disappear; and he returns to frivolity in a serious and plotting spirit. He tolerates nearly every one, and in particular the influential. They cultivate him, clearly, for his intelligence, his independence, his originality. Why should he not cultivate them for their own petty endowment? He enters office at the Union. He is elected to presidentships, secretaryships.
Society quickly bores him. He's had enough of[Pg 279] vacation visits and picnics during the term, so he reconnects with work and lazy friends. But that isn't necessarily appealing. Plus, his friends and admirers won’t let him fade away; he returns to lightheartedness with a serious and scheming attitude. He tolerates almost everyone, especially those with influence. They clearly seek him out for his intelligence, independence, and originality. So why shouldn't he seek them out for their own minor advantages? He takes a position at the Union. He gets elected to various president and secretary roles.
He is lucky if he does not learn from others—what he will not easily learn alone—that his resemblance to them is neither his best nor his most useful quality. And so he finds that after all there is nothing in ideals, and steps into a comfortable place in life; or perhaps he does not.
He’s fortunate if he doesn’t need to learn from others—what he wouldn’t easily discover on his own—that his similarity to them is neither his best nor most valuable trait. So he realizes that, in the end, there’s nothing to ideals, and settles into a cozy spot in life; or maybe he doesn’t.
IV
The many-coloured undergraduate looks as if he had been designed by the architect of the “Five Orders Gate” in the Schools’ Quadrangle. His hat, his face, his tie, his waistcoat, his boots, represent the five orders; as in his great original, the Corinthian is predominant, and like that, he would never be thought possible, if he had not been seen. Yet he moves. Despite his elaborate appearance—destined to endure perhaps for all time, or as long as a shop-front—it is impossible to guess what may be his activities. He may be a famous[Pg 280] oarsman or cricketer, in which case his taste forbids him to adopt the broad blue band of his rank, unless there are ladies in Oxford. He may be a hard-working student who adopts this among many methods of showing that his successes fall to him as naturally as Saturday and Sunday. He may be an amateur tragedian, or magazine-wit, or æsthete, who finds the costume less embarrassing although less distinguishing than cosmetics and an overcoat of fur. He may be a billiard-player who has chosen this contrasted, barry, wavy set of colours as his coat of arms, or the perambulating mannequin d’osier of several tailors, a transcendental sandwich-man. Or he may be a “blood” of many great connections and expenses; genial in his sphere; pleased with the number of his debts and the times he has been ploughed in “Smalls”; hunting or rowing keenly, while he lasts; and except when he has to work (which sends him to sleep), a sitter up at nights over cards and wine—
The brightly dressed undergraduate looks like he was designed by the architect of the “Five Orders Gate” in the Schools’ Quadrangle. His hat, his face, his tie, his waistcoat, and his boots represent the five orders; like his great original, the Corinthian style stands out the most, and, like that, he wouldn't seem real if you hadn't seen him. Yet he moves. Despite his flashy look—meant to last forever, or at least as long as a storefront—it’s impossible to tell what he actually does. He could be a famous[Pg 280] rower or cricketer, in which case his style prevents him from wearing the broad blue band that indicates his rank, unless there are women around in Oxford. He might be a diligent student who uses this among many ways to show that his achievements come as easily to him as the weekends do. He could be an amateur actor, a witty columnist, or an art lover who finds his outfit less awkward, even if it’s less unique than makeup and a fur coat. He could be a billiards player who chose this striking, colorful set of clothes as his coat of arms, or the walking mannequin of several tailors, a philosophical sandwich board. Or he could be a “blood” with many connections and expenses; friendly in his circle; satisfied with how many debts he has and the times he’s been flunked in “Smalls”; deeply into hunting or rowing while it lasts; and when he doesn’t have to study (which makes him doze off), he’s up late at night over cards and wine—
With their serious saws, they lie asleep. We who are made of purer fire Imitate the starry choir.
Or his great expenses and connections may not exist. He is perhaps a poor and worthless imitation of all that is great,—who does not know Lord X., of whom he tells such dull stories,—whose relatives are neither retired, nor in Army, Navy, or Church,—and entirely respectable in the Vacations, when he earns by his own self-sacrifice what was earned for his models by the[Pg 282][Pg 281]
Or maybe his impressive lifestyle and connections aren’t real. He might just be a poor and useless knockoff of everything that’s great — who doesn't know Lord X, the one he tells such boring stories about — whose relatives are neither retired nor involved in the Army, Navy, or Church — and completely respectable during the holidays, when he earns, through his own self-sacrifice, what was earned for his role models by the[Pg 282][Pg 281]

THE BATHING SHEDS, OR “PARSONS’ PLEASURE”
THE BATHING SHEDS, OR “PARSONS’ PLEASURE”
These sheds are built on the banks of the river Cherwell, the willow trees lining the stream being fitted with platforms at all heights for plunging.
These sheds are built along the banks of the Cherwell River, with willow trees lining the stream outfitted with platforms at various heights for diving.
A figure to the right is taking advantage of one of these stations; others are dressing or preparing to bathe.
A person on the right is using one of these stations; others are getting dressed or getting ready to bathe.
The time is near sunset in summer.
The time is just before sunset in the summer.
unscrupulousness of their ancestors. In short, he may be a most brilliant, most fascinating, or most modest person, who has chosen to appear piebald.
unscrupulousness of their ancestors. In short, he may be a brilliant, fascinating, or modest person who has chosen to appear mixed or inconsistent.
His room is decorated with photographs of actresses, along with perhaps a Hogarth print, a florid male and a floral female portrait, an expensive picture of a horse, and copies from Leighton. In a corner is a piano, which he is perhaps eager and unable to play. The air is scented with roses and cigarettes. The window-seat is strewn with hunting-crops, bills, a caricature of himself from an undergraduate paper, several novels and boxes of cigarettes, a history of the Argent-Bigpotts of Bigpott, and, under a cushion, some note-books and a table of work.
His room is filled with photos of actresses, maybe a Hogarth print, a detailed portrait of a man and a floral portrait of a woman, a pricey picture of a horse, and some copies of Leighton's work. In one corner, there’s a piano that he probably wants to play but can’t. The air smells of roses and cigarettes. The window seat is cluttered with riding crops, bills, a cartoon of himself from a college paper, several novels, cigarette boxes, a history of the Argent-Bigpotts of Bigpott, and, hidden under a cushion, some notebooks and a work schedule.
He is to be met with everywhere; for he is not ashamed to be seen. He lives long in the memories of travellers from Birmingham who wait five minutes in Oxford. In the Schools he is a constant attendant, always sanguine, not quite cheerful or satisfied with the company, yet equal (at his Viva Voce) to a look of ineffectual superiority for the man who ploughs him with a smile. He is also to be found by the river, during the Eights, when he cheers and looks very well; in a bookshop, where he recognises Omar and some novels; or in the High, which never wearies him, although his bored look seems to say so.[Pg 286]
He can be found everywhere because he isn’t shy about being noticed. He stays in the minds of travelers from Birmingham who spend just five minutes in Oxford. In the Schools, he’s always around, typically optimistic, not exactly cheerful or satisfied with those around him, yet capable (at his Viva Voce) of projecting a sense of unhelpful superiority to anyone who greets him with a smile. You can also spot him by the river during the Eights, where he cheers and looks great; in a bookstore, where he recognizes Omar and some novels; or on the High, which never seems to bore him, even though his expression suggests otherwise.[Pg 286]
V
He has come up with a scholarship from school. There, he took prizes, had an attack of brain-fever, and edited the magazine: and he has come to the University as if it were an upper class of his old school. His aim is, as many prizes as possible and a good degree. The tutors here, like the masters at school, he regards as men who turn a handle and work up more or less good material into scholars, as a butcher makes sausages, all exactly alike to the eye, out of a mysterious heap. At first he is in great awe of a fellow, and wears his scholar’s gown at its utmost length, and as proudly as star and riband—he will hardly take it off in the severe quarter of an hour in which he permits himself to drink coffee and eat anchovy toast after dinner; and he sometimes pretends to forget that he has it on until he goes to bed. Perhaps on one occasion he trips his tutor over a quotation or something of no account. He scans the tutor’s bookshelves, and finds odd things between Tacitus and Thucydides which make him ponder. At length, he is less respectful; opens discussions, in which, having tired the tutor, he returns very well satisfied. For he has a patent memory, as he has a patent reading-lamp and reading-desk. Nothing goes into it without a bright label, as nothing goes into his note-book without honours of pencilled red and blue. His copy of Homer is so overscored that one might[Pg 287] suppose that the battle of the pigmies and cranes had been fought to a sanguinary end upon its page.
He has received a scholarship from school. There, he won prizes, had a bout of brain fever, and edited the magazine: now he’s at the University as if it were an advanced class of his old school. His goal is to win as many prizes as possible and earn a good degree. He sees the tutors here, much like the teachers at school, as people who just follow a routine to turn more or less good material into scholars, like a butcher making sausages, all looking the same, out of a mysterious heap. At first, he feels intimidated by a fellow student and wears his scholar’s gown at its longest, as proudly as one would display stars and ribbons—he barely takes it off during the brief time he allows himself to drink coffee and eat anchovy toast after dinner; he sometimes pretends to forget he’s wearing it until he goes to bed. Perhaps once, he trips up his tutor with a quote or something unimportant. He examines the tutor’s bookshelf and discovers interesting things between Tacitus and Thucydides that make him think. Eventually, he becomes less deferential; he starts discussions that exhaust the tutor, leaving him quite pleased. He has a photographic memory, just like his reading lamp and reading desk. Nothing goes into his mind without a bright label, just as nothing makes it into his notebook without honors of penciled red and blue. His copy of Homer is so heavily marked that one might suppose the battle of the pigmies and cranes had been fought to a bloody end on its pages.
At school his football was treated with contempt, yet with silence, except by very small boys. At college he is anxious to do a little at games. The captain of the boats asks him, as a matter of course, to go down to the river, to be tubbed (or coached) in a pair-oar boat; and he replies that he “will willingly spare half an hour.” He shows some good points at the river; is painstaking and neat. His half-hour is mercilessly multiplied day after day. He is to be found at the starting-point in February, in his college Torpid, and proves a stately nonentity or passenger; discovers that rowing abrades more than his skin, and gives it up just before he is asked to. For the future he sculls alone, once a week, when it is mild, and oftener when his friends are visiting him—which he does not encourage. At such times he learns that it is quite true that Oxford possesses some fine drawings, marbles, stained glass, and a library of little use to a determined “Greats” man. These he exhibits to the visitors impatiently and with pride. He returns to his work unruffled. Already he has scored one First Class and a proxime for a prize. Yet his tutor pays him qualified compliments, which he attributes to the natural bitterness of a second class man. The tutor sometimes asks him what he reads; to which he replies brightly with a long list of texts, etc.
At school, his football skills were looked down upon, mostly ignored except by much younger kids. In college, he wants to engage a bit in sports. The rowing team captain casually invites him to come down to the river for some coaching in a pair-oar boat, and he agrees to "spare half an hour." He shows some potential at the river; he's diligent and organized. That half-hour quickly turns into a daily commitment. By February, he's at the starting point in his college Torpid and turns out to be an impressive bystander or passenger; he realizes that rowing takes a toll beyond just his skin and quits just before he’s asked to. From then on, he rows alone once a week when the weather's nice and more often when his friends come to visit, which he doesn't actively encourage. During those times, he finds out it's true that Oxford has some amazing drawings, sculptures, stained glass, and a library that doesn't do much for someone focused on "Greats." He shows these off to his visitors with both impatience and pride. He then returns to his studies unfazed. He’s already achieved one First Class and a proxime for a prize. Yet, his tutor gives him mixed compliments, which he brushes off as the envy of a second-class man. The tutor sometimes asks him what he’s studying, and he responds cheerfully with a long list of texts, etc.
“Yes, but what do you read when you unbend?” says the tutor. “Did you ever read Midshipman Easy?” (with a touch of exasperation).[Pg 288]
“Yes, but what do you read when you relax?” says the tutor. “Have you ever read Midshipman Easy?” (with a hint of frustration).[Pg 288]
The youth blushingly replies: “No, I never unbend.”
The young man replies shyly, “No, I never relax.”
Nor is the other far more pleased when he brings with him, on a short vacation boating holiday, a volume of the Encyclopædia Britannica.
Nor is the other much happier when he brings along, on a short vacation boating trip, a copy of the Encyclopædia Britannica.
Now and then he speaks at the Union. There and at afternoon teas with ladies he is known for the lucidity of his commonplaces and the length of his quotations. For the most part he talks only of his work and the current number of the Times. His work, meantime, is less and less satisfactory to every one but his coach. Some say that he will get another first, and will not deserve it. Already he is learning that three or four years among “boys” is not helpful to his future. No one so much as he emphasises the distinction between third and second year undergraduates. He is always looking for really improving conversation, and play of mind without any play. A book tea would please him, if it were not so frivolous.
Now and then he speaks at the Union. There and at afternoon teas with ladies, he is known for the clarity of his remarks and the length of his quotes. For the most part, he only discusses his work and the latest issue of the Times. Meanwhile, his work is becoming less and less satisfactory to everyone except his coach. Some say he will get another first, and that he won’t deserve it. He’s already realizing that spending three or four years among “boys” isn’t helpful for his future. No one emphasizes the difference between third and second-year undergraduates as much as he does. He’s always looking for conversations that truly challenge the mind, without any nonsense. A book-themed tea would make him happy if it weren’t so trivial.
Once only he lapses from the rigidity of his ways. He thinks it a matter of duty until it occurs, when the hearty and informal reception given to his rendering of “To Anthea” discourages any further condescension. With that exception, he moves with considerable dignity among mankind: in all things discreet, with a leaning towards the absurd; in most things well under control, yet, in spite of his rigidity, really luxuriating in the sweets of a neutral nature that never tempts temptation. He sends in a neat, flowery, and icy poem for the Newdigate Prize, and wins. He gets his second First[Pg 289] Class and an appointment which he likes at the same time. He enters for a fellowship, and his failure calls forth the old story about the cherry tart that was offered to likely competitors at a fellowship examination, where the cleanest management of the stones meant success.
Once in a while, he steps away from his strict ways. He thinks it's just part of his duty until it happens; the warm and casual reception of his performance of “To Anthea” discourages any further attempts to be less serious. Aside from that, he carries himself with dignity around others: discreet about everything, with a hint of absurdity; mostly in control, yet despite his strictness, he truly enjoys the simple pleasures of a neutral life that never leads to temptation. He submits a neat, flowery, and cold poem for the Newdigate Prize and wins. He earns his second First[Pg 289] Class and gets a position he likes at the same time. He applies for a fellowship, and his failure brings up the old story about the cherry tart offered to promising candidates during a fellowship exam, where the best handling of the stones determined success.
He goes down with his degree, and confident, applauded, unmissed. His friends say that he lacks something which he ought to have. What is it?
He goes down with his degree, confident, applauded, and not missed. His friends say he’s missing something he should have. What is it?
VI
He has come up to Oxford with an unconquerable love of men and books and games; is resolved not to be careful in small matters for a few years; and has a clear vision of a profession ahead. Others think that a fellowship and a prize are his due; he vaguely regards them as nice. But he has a strong belief that any kind of distinction is dangerous at Oxford, and among the least of its possibilities. He respects the scholar and the Blue, and sees that they might equally well be made in another city or on another stream. Bent upon a life among men, he sees that a university is a place where many are men, but where many of the suspicious and calculating passions of a bigger world are in abeyance; and thinks that it should therefore be the home of perfect rivalries and friendships.
He has come to Oxford with a strong love for people, books, and games; he's decided not to worry about small things for a few years; and he has a clear idea of a career ahead. Others believe that a fellowship and a prize are owed to him; he thinks of them as nice but doesn't care much. He firmly believes that any form of recognition is risky at Oxford and one of the least important things there. He respects scholars and those who play for the university, knowing they could achieve success in another city or a different setting. Eager for a life among people, he sees that a university is a place where many are engaged with others, but where many of the suspicious and calculating emotions of the larger world are held back; he thinks it should therefore be a place of genuine rivalries and friendships.
He will attend the lectures of——, which are outside his course. He [Pg 290]will accept some hearty excesses in the rooms of—— as equally important. When he comes up his sympathies are universal. He is eager and warm in his liking of men and things; and he is straightway on happy terms with undergraduates and dons. After a few terms his versatility is hard-worked in order to give something more than an appearance of sympathy in the company of athletes, reading men, contemplative men, and wealthy men. For a time his success is sublime. The reading man thinks there was never such a student. The rowing man approves of his leg-work and his narratives at those little training parties for the enjoyment of music, port, and fruit—“togger ports.” His method appeals to the don. Now and then, indeed, some one a little more reticent than himself puts him to a test, and he may discourse on Aquinas to a Unitarian Socialist, or on Gargantua to one deep in Christian mysticism or fresh from the new year’s advice of his great-aunt. In such cases, either he is repulsed with sufficient narrowness on the part of the other to supply a necessary balm, or he makes a surprised and admiring convert, who may do odd things on account of his inferior versatility. For quite a long time he may have the good fortune to let loose his interest in the Ptolemies in the neighbourhood of other admirers or neutral gentlemen. And so long all is more than well. He is popular, exuberant, and in a fair way of growth, albeit a little overdone. It is true that in tired moments he is likely to choose the path of least resistance and find himself in not very versatile company. But what a life he leads! what afternoons on the Cherwell between Marston and Islip in the[Pg 291] summer; and beyond Fyfield, when autumn still has all that is a perfecting of summer in its gift! The admiring plodder who hears his speeches says that he will some day be Lord Chancellor. His verses have something beyond cleverness in them: they have a high impulsion, as when spring makes a crown imperial or a tulip. And listening to his talk or reading his letters, one might think that he will be content to be one of those men of genius who avoid fame—but if their letters are unearthed two hundred years hence they will have the life of Wotton’s or T. E. Brown’s. His friends think that such a clear-souled, gracious, brilliant creature would leaven the Senior Common Room and draw out the shyness of ——, and twist the neck of ——’s exuberant dulness.
He'll go to lectures by——, even if they're not part of his curriculum. He believes that the lively gatherings at—— are just as important. When he arrives, he's open-minded and friendly. He genuinely likes people and things, quickly building good relationships with both undergraduates and professors. After a few terms, he finds himself juggling various interests to genuinely connect with athletes, bookworms, thinkers, and wealthy individuals. For a while, he seems to excel. The studious types think he's the ideal student. The rowers appreciate his camaraderie and entertaining stories at their casual training sessions, enjoying music, drinks, and snacks—“togger ports.” His approach resonates with the professors. Occasionally, someone a bit more reserved challenges him, and he might discuss Aquinas with a Unitarian Socialist or Gargantua with someone steeped in Christian mysticism or just back from his great-aunt's New Year’s advice. In these moments, either the other person is narrow-minded enough to give him a needed boost, or he impresses them as a surprising new admirer, who might act oddly due to his lesser adaptability. For quite some time, he enjoys sharing his interest in the Ptolemies with fellow fans or neutral peers. During this phase, everything seems to be going great. He’s popular, enthusiastic, and thriving, even if occasionally a bit too much. It’s true that when he’s tired, he often takes the easy route and ends up in less stimulating company. But what a life he lives! Those afternoons on the Cherwell between Marston and Islip in the[Pg 291] summer; and beyond Fyfield, when autumn still has that touch of summer perfection! The dedicated student who listens to his speeches believes he'll one day be Lord Chancellor. His poetry has something deeper than just cleverness: it carries a strong drive, much like spring brings forth a crown imperial or a tulip. And whether listening to him speak or reading his letters, one might think he'll be happy to remain one of those geniuses who shy away from fame—but if their letters resurface two centuries later, they'll have the same legacy as Wotton or T. E. Brown. His friends believe that such a pure-hearted, charming, brilliant person would elevate the Senior Common Room and bring out the shyness of ——, while shaking up ——’s over-the-top dullness.
The liberal life, close in friendship with so many of the living and the historical, on occasions almost gives him the freedom of all time. His friends note that Catullus or Lucan or Dante is nearer to him than to other men. He quotes them as if he had lived with them and were their executor, and by his sympathy seems to have won a part authorship of their finest things. He expounds the law and makes it as exhilarating as the Arabian Nights, or as if it were a sequel to Don Quixote. And in history the dons notice his picturesqueness, which is as passionate as if he could have written that ardent sonnet:—
The liberal life, featuring close friendships with so many living and historical figures, occasionally feels like he has access to all of time. His friends observe that Catullus, Lucan, or Dante are closer to him than to most people. He quotes them as if he had lived alongside them and was their executor, and through his empathy, he seems to share in the authorship of their greatest works. He explains the law and makes it as thrilling as the Arabian Nights, or as if it were a continuation of Don Quixote. And in history, the professors notice his vividness, which is as intense as if he could have penned that passionate sonnet:—
The purple kings and their cavalry; They fill the street with a noisy procession; The kings have defeated the Saracen.[Pg 292]
Singing an epic song about the Eastern wars,
In red ships, they sailed across the sea,
With red sails and dark oars adorned with diamonds, That caused the Mediterranean to shine with fire. And reading about how, in that distant month, the groups Formed on the outskirts of the desert, fully armored, I really wish I had been with them. When the first Norman jumped onto the wall,
And Godfrey led the front line of the Franks, And young Lord Raymond attacked Jerusalem.
So the glories of youth and history and summer mingle in his brain and speech.
So the glories of youth, history, and summer mix in his mind and words.
No one is so married to his surroundings as he, and while he appears to many to be shaped by them—beautiful or grotesque—as an animal in a shell; to a few he appears also to shape them, so that Oxford in his company is a new thing, as if it were the highest, last creation of the modern mind. He does not acquiesce in the limp mediævalism of the rest, but recreates the Middle Ages for himself, finding new humanities in the sculptures, and beauties in the perspective, strange sympathies between the monkish work and the voices and faces of those who sit amidst it. In his own college he effects a surprising “modernisation” by removing a little eighteenth-century work and revealing the fifteenth-century original. Thus all history is to him a vivid personal experience.
No one is as connected to his surroundings as he is, and while many see him as molded by them—beautiful or grotesque—like an animal in a shell; a few perceive that he also influences them, making Oxford with him feel like something fresh, as if it were the ultimate creation of modern thought. He doesn’t accept the dull medievalism of others but recreates the Middle Ages for himself, discovering new humanity in the sculptures and beauty in the perspectives, and noticing strange connections between the monkish work and the voices and faces of those who gather around it. In his own college, he makes a surprising "modernization" by removing some eighteenth-century work and unveiling the original fifteenth-century pieces. For him, all of history is a vibrant personal experience.
But he is overwhelmed by his versatility, and cultivates that for its own sake, and at last loses his sympathy with all who are not as he. The athletes begin to treat him as a poser. The hard workers stand aloof from his extravagances. With different sets he is treated[Pg 293] and rejected as a man of the world, a hepatetic philosopher, a dilettante; ... some speak of the literary taint; the dons are tired. He is in danger of becoming the hero of the most unstable freshman and his scout. And so, though he has perhaps but one failing more than his contemporaries, and certainly more virtues, he is ridiculed or feared or despised, and goes about like Leonolo in the play, who wandered
But he's overwhelmed by his own versatility and embraces it for its own sake, eventually losing his connection with anyone who isn’t like him. The athletes start to see him as a poser. The hard workers keep their distance from his extravagant behaviors. Depending on the group, he’s treated and dismissed as a worldly man, a mediocre philosopher, or a dabbler; some even mention a literary stigma; the professors are fed up. He risks becoming the idol of the most unstable freshman and his wannabe followers. So, even though he might have just one more flaw than his peers, and certainly has more virtues, he’s ridiculed, feared, or looked down upon, and goes around like Leonolo in the play, who wandered.
until he has the good luck to fall back upon his friends. There he is safe again. His name will indeed be handed down through half a dozen undergraduate generations for his least characteristic adventures, but if that is a rare distinction, and equivalent to a press immortality, it is likely to be of no profit to him. Where he used to be an expensive copy of a Bohemian, he becomes at last as near the genuine thing as any critic, with a wholesome fear of being absolute, would care to pronounce. His one pose is that of the plain-spoken, natural man, in the presence of a snob. Everywhere he is as independent as a parrot or a tramp. In life, few are to be envied so much. For he achieves everything but success.
until he gets lucky enough to lean on his friends again. There, he feels secure once more. His name will definitely be remembered by several generations of undergrads for his least notable escapades, but if that’s a rare honor, comparable to lasting fame, it probably won’t benefit him at all. Where he once was an expensive imitation of a Bohemian, he eventually comes as close to being the real deal as any critic, who wisely avoids being dogmatic, would dare to say. His only act is that of a straightforward, genuine person, especially when faced with a snob. In every situation, he’s as independent as a parrot or a drifter. In life, few people can be envied like he can. For he manages to achieve everything except success.
VII
The important undergraduate is one who has been [Pg 294]thunderstruck by the inferiority of the rest. He cannot, if he would, be rid of the notion. In a large college the distinction between himself and others is cheerfully acknowledged by them, while he leads a painful life. In a small college, for a year or two, he is so handled that he may sometimes wish he were as other men are. At the end of that time he has by contagion created a covey of important men, and now, to his moral, athletic, and intellectual excellence, and his superior school, is added the excellence of being several years older than the majority. He establishes a despotism for the good of the college. He is willing to take the fellows into partnership, makes advances, and, when coyly repulsed, has his sense of importance increased by the knowledge that an opposition exists. His splendour is marred only by the stranger, who mistakes his brass-buttoned blazer for a livery, and finds his pomposity well worthy of such fine old quadrangles,—and requests him with a smile and half a sovereign to exhibit the chapel and the hall, and “tell me who are the swells”!
The significant undergraduate is someone who has been [Pg 294]shocked by how much better he is than everyone else. He can't shake that feeling, even if he wanted to. In a large college, others openly acknowledge the difference between him and them, while he endures a tough life. In a small college, for a year or two, he’s treated in a way that makes him sometimes wish he were more like everyone else. By the end of that time, he’s inspired a group of important individuals, and now, alongside his moral, athletic, and intellectual achievements, he has the advantage of being several years older than most. He sets up a leadership role for the sake of the college. He’s eager to engage with his peers, tries to reach out, and when they shy away, it only boosts his sense of importance knowing there’s some resistance. His shine is only diminished by strangers who mistake his fancy blazer for a uniform and consider his arrogance quite fitting for such prestigious old campuses—asking him with a smile and half a sovereign to show them the chapel and hall, and "tell me who the important people are!"
He walks about Oxford with a beautiful satisfaction. “A poor thing, but my own,” he seems to say, as he enters the college gate. Little boys in the street pull off their caps as he passes, and the saucy, imprudent freshman does the same. He rows, he plays football and cricket, he debates, all indifferently, but with such an air that he and even some others for a time believe that he is the life and soul of the college.
He strolls around Oxford with a deep sense of satisfaction. “It’s not much, but it’s mine,” he seems to say as he walks through the college gate. Little boys on the street take off their caps as he goes by, and even the cheeky, bold freshman does the same. He rows, plays football and cricket, and debates, all without preference, but with such confidence that he and even a few others for a while believe he’s the heart and soul of the college.
He has been captain and president of everything, when he finds that there is no further honour open to[Pg 295] him, and he muses almost with melancholy. The others find it out somewhat later; he is dejected. Though fallen, he is still majestic. He stalks about like a foxhound in July, or like a rebellious archangel—
He has been the leader and president of everything, and when he realizes that there are no more honors left for him, he reflects on it almost sadly. The others figure it out a bit later; he feels down. Even though he has fallen, he still has a commanding presence. He moves around like a hound in July or like a defiant archangel—
Once more October returns. A new generation of freshmen is invited to tea, and for one glorious hour his old vivacity returns, as he questions, instructs, exhorts. “The President of the O.U.B.C. once said to me, ...” or “When I was in the college boat and we made seven bumps ...”—such are his conjuring terms.
Once again, October is here. A new group of freshmen is invited for tea, and for one wonderful hour, his old energy comes back as he questions, teaches, and encourages. “The President of the O.U.B.C. once said to me, ...” or “When I was on the college boat and we made seven bumps ...”—these are his magical phrases.
Perhaps in a few years he returns, to find that the college is not what it was, and that his nickname is still remembered.
Perhaps in a few years he comes back, only to see that the college isn't what it used to be, and that his nickname is still remembered.
VIII
He is one whom the Important Undergraduate regards as a parody of himself. For he resembles the other in no respect. He is a clean, brave, and modest freshman, with too great a liking for the same qualities in others to be disturbed by any faulty affectations that may go along with them. When he comes up he has a few friends in Oxford, keeps them, and is well contented. He plays his games heartily, and is almost as glad to cheer, when he is not good enough or pushing enough to play. Nothing can destroy his regular habits, and at first he narrowly escapes being despised for them by his inferiors. He is comparatively poor and not very clever.[Pg 296] Neither has he any amusing oddities, or stories to tell, or much whisky to dispense. Yet he finds notoriety thrust upon him. If it were not for his firm and blushing manner, he would never have his room empty for work. Very soon, he is the only man in the college who may sport his oak with no fear from the thunders of distant and idle acquaintances. Every one wishes to possess him. The athletes cannot withstand his running, his hard fielding. The more unpopular reading-men are first attracted by his simple habits as a freshman, and then surprised that they are not repulsed when they hear that he will get his Blue; he is always their protector. The elegant and stupid men, at least for a few terms, know no man who so becomes a cigar, and is so fit to meet their female cousins at breakfast. The brilliant men like him first because he is a mystery; next, because he recalls to them their “lost youth,” which was nothing like his; and finally, because he is so friendly and so naïvely rebukes their most venturesome sallies. His presence in a room is more than a wood fire and a steaming bowl. He seems to know not sorrow—
He is someone whom the Important Undergraduate sees as a joke of himself. He doesn’t resemble the others at all. He’s a clean, brave, and humble freshman, with such a strong appreciation for these qualities in others that he isn’t bothered by any awkward pretenses that might come with them. When he arrives, he has a few friends at Oxford, holds onto them, and is quite happy. He plays his games with enthusiasm and is almost as excited to cheer when he isn’t good enough or competitive enough to play. Nothing can shake his regular habits, and at first, he narrowly avoids being looked down upon for them by his peers. He is relatively poor and not very smart.[Pg 296] He doesn’t have any quirky habits, interesting stories to share, or much alcohol to offer. Yet, he finds himself in the spotlight. If it weren’t for his confident and blushing demeanor, he would rarely have his room free for studying. Very soon, he becomes the only person in the college who can enjoy his oak with no fear of being interrupted by distant and idle acquaintances. Everyone wants to be around him. The athletes can’t resist his speed and his solid fielding. The less popular students are first drawn in by his straightforwardness as a freshman, and then surprised that they aren’t put off when they hear he will achieve his Blue; he is always their defender. The stylish yet dimwitted men, at least for a few terms, know no one who fits a cigar better or is more suitable to meet their female cousins at breakfast. The brilliant students like him at first because he’s an enigma; next, because he reminds them of their "lost youth," which was nothing like his; and finally, because he is so friendly and unwittingly challenges their boldest antics. His presence in a room feels cozier than a wood fire and a steaming bowl. He seems to know nothing of sorrow—
It is sorrow-killing to see his amazement at sorrow, like the amazement of those spirits in Purgatory who exclaimed, as Dante passed: “The light seems not to shine on one side of him, though he behaves as one that lives.” Men of very different persuasions are fascinated by “the young Greek” in the Parks or on the river. He is successful everywhere, and is in time captain of[Pg 297] football and president of the debating and literary society, although his knowledge of literature is confined to Scott’s Novels, Hypatia, and the Idylls of the King. He accepts the advice of the Important Undergraduate, here and elsewhere, and unconsciously ignores it, with happy results. For his contemporaries believe that he has launched his college upon one of those sudden, mysterious ascensions that mean social, learned, and athletic improvement at once. To the last he is diffident, and at the same time always capable of doing his best. “Can you clear that brook?” one asks in the Hinksey fields. “I don’t know,” is the reply, and over he goes, a foot clear amongst the orchis. Not a great deal more powerful than the cox, he strokes a boat that has never been bumped, and is the only oar whom the rest all praise. To see him halting over a commonplace speech at a college function, or making the most ludicrous new verses to the alphabetical song of “Jolly old Dons,” and winning applause; or dropping his head on his knees at the winning-post on the river; or carried for the hundredth time round the quadrangle on some festive night—is, nobody knows or asks why, an inspiration. And after his last farewell dinner he smiles, as if he knew everything or had the pitié suprême, as he notices the follies which he supposes he is “not clever enough for,” and goes down to his manor or country curacy very happily.[Pg 298]
It’s heartbreaking to see his surprise at sadness, like the astonishment of those spirits in Purgatory who exclaimed, as Dante passed by: “The light doesn’t seem to shine on one side of him, even though he acts like someone who’s alive.” People with very different beliefs are drawn to “the young Greek” in the parks or by the river. He thrives everywhere and eventually becomes captain of [Pg 297] football and president of the debating and literary society, even though his knowledge of literature is limited to Scott’s Novels, Hypatia, and the Idylls of the King. He takes the advice of the Important Undergraduate, both here and elsewhere, and unconsciously disregards it, leading to fortunate outcomes. His peers believe that he has led his college to one of those sudden, mysterious improvements that result in social, academic, and athletic growth all at once. He is modest about his abilities but always manages to give his best. “Can you jump that brook?” one person asks in the Hinksey fields. “I don’t know,” he replies, and then he clears it by a foot amidst the orchids. Not much stronger than the coxswain, he strokes a boat that has never been bumped and is the only oarsman whose skills everyone admires. Watching him fumble through a basic speech at a college event, or create the funniest new verses to the alphabetical song of “Jolly old Dons” while earning applause; or seeing him drop his head on his knees at the finish line by the river; or being carried for the hundredth time around the quad on some festive night—no one knows or questions why, but it’s an inspiration. After his final farewell dinner, he smiles as if he knows everything or has pitié suprême, as he observes the silliness he believes he’s “not smart enough for,” and heads back to his manor or country parish very happily.[Pg 298]
IX
There was for a short time, amidst but not of the University, a student whom I cannot but count as a “clerk of Oxenford.” He came from no school, but straight from a counting-house. All his life he had been a deep, unguided delver in the past. An orphan in the world, he had chosen his family among the noble persons of antiquity. Cæsar was more real to him than Napoleon, and Cato more influential than any millionaire. He had tasted all the types, from Diogenes to Seneca and Lucullus. When he tired of his counting-house, he tried to imagine a resemblance between it and a city state, but was himself but a helot in the end.
For a brief period, outside but not completely separate from the University, there was a student I can’t help but refer to as a “clerk of Oxenford.” He came from no school but directly from a counting house. His entire life had been spent as a deep, untrained explorer of the past. An orphan in this world, he had chosen his family among the great figures of history. Cæsar felt more real to him than Napoleon, and Cato more influential than any billionaire. He had experienced all the various philosophies, from Diogenes to Seneca and Lucullus. When he grew tired of his counting house, he attempted to see it as a city-state, but ultimately, he remained just a helot.
So it happened that he came to live in a cottage attic, five or six miles from Oxford. He wanted to be a university man. He despised scholarships as if they had been the badge of the Legion of Honour. Colleges he would have nothing to do with, because they spoiled the simplicity of the idea of a university in his mind. They had made possible the social folly of Oxford. But in his reading of history he had travelled no farther than the Middle Ages towards his own time; and a picture of Oxford life in that day fascinated him. He believed that it was still possible to lead the unstable, independent, penniless life of a scholar; and he knew not why a student should hope or wish to be anything like a merchant or a prince. A merchant had money, and a prince flattery: he would have wisdom. It was[Pg 299] likely to be a long search, and in his view it was the search that was beyond price. He wanted wisdom as a man might want a star, because it was a rare and beautiful thing. So his studies were a spiritual experience. The short passages of Homer which he knew by heart had something of religious unction in his utterance.
So, he ended up living in an attic of a cottage, about five or six miles from Oxford. He wanted to be part of the university. He looked down on scholarships as if they were a badge of honor. He wanted nothing to do with colleges because they complicated the pure idea of a university in his mind. They had led to the social absurdities of Oxford. However, in his reading of history, he hadn't gotten much past the Middle Ages toward his own time; and an image of Oxford life during that era captivated him. He believed it was still possible to live the precarious, independent, and broke life of a scholar, and he didn’t understand why a student would aspire to be anything like a merchant or a prince. A merchant had money, and a prince got flattery; he wanted wisdom. It was[Pg 299] likely to be a long quest, but he considered the quest itself to be invaluable. He sought wisdom as someone might long for a star because it was something rare and beautiful. Thus, his studies became a spiritual experience. The few lines of Homer he had memorized carried a sense of religious devotion in how he spoke them.
He left London afoot, with a parcel of books strapped to his shoulders; his only disappointment coming from a landlord who refused to pay for his singing with a meal, as he would have done six hundred years ago. A farmer treated him generously, under the belief that he was mad.
He left London on foot, with a bundle of books strapped to his back; his only disappointment came from a landlord who wouldn't pay for his singing with a meal, like they would have done six hundred years ago. A farmer treated him well, thinking he was crazy.
A few antiquated Greek texts and notes, an odd volume of Chronicles from the Rolls Series, and an Aldrich, adorned his room, and with their help he hoped to lay the foundations of a seraphic, universal wisdom. Gradually he would become worthy to use the Bodleian and contend with the learned gown and hostile town.
A few old Greek texts and notes, a random volume of Chronicles from the Rolls Series, and an Aldrich filled his room, and with their help, he aimed to build the foundations of a heavenly, universal knowledge. Gradually, he would become worthy of using the Bodleian and facing off against the scholarly gown and the unfriendly town.
Once a week, in the beginning, he walked into Oxford. He saw the river covered with boats, and laughed happily and pitifully at men who seemed to know nothing about the uses of a university. A good-tempered youth, in rowing knickerbockers, was a fit disciple for his revelations, he thought, and was about to preach, when he barely escaped from a bicycle and a megaphone. Almost sad, murmuring Abelard’s line
Once a week, at first, he strolled into Oxford. He saw the river filled with boats and laughed both joyfully and sadly at the men who appeared to know nothing about what a university offered. A cheerful young guy in rowing shorts seemed like a perfect student for his insights, he thought, and was just about to share when he narrowly avoided getting hit by a bicycle and a megaphone. Almost sadly, he murmured Abelard’s line
[Pg 300]
he hastened to the city. The spires gave him courage again, and he ran, singing an old song:—
he hurried to the city. The spires filled him with renewed courage, and he ran, singing an old song:—
And in my mind was unimaginable wealth:
Hey! In the old days In the town of Oxford, a scholar was trolling.
Every one in a master’s gown received a bow. He was mistaken for a literary man. And once in Oxford, he went, seriously and as if at a ceremony, through a minutely prepared plan. He attended service at one of the churches, and especially St. Mary’s. He took long, repeated walks up and down High Street, and into all the lanes, which he hardly knew when their names had been changed. Then he sat for an hour in the oldest-looking inn. In blessed mood, he tried the landlord unsuccessfully with Latin, and waited until some scholar should call and exchange jests with him in the learned tongue, or perhaps join him in a quarrel with the town. The only scholar that called talked in a strange tongue, chiefly to a bull-pup, and never to him. And late at night he stole reluctantly home, never so much pleased as when, in a dark alley, he was saluted by a proctor, and asked if he might be a member of the University. But the little note inviting him to be at—— College at—— A.M. on the following day never came, and he was cheated of the glory of being the first member of the University who could by no means pay a fine.
Everyone in a master's gown got a bow. He was thought to be a scholar. Once in Oxford, he moved seriously and as if it were a ceremony, following a carefully prepared plan. He attended a service at one of the churches, especially St. Mary’s. He took long, repeated walks up and down High Street and explored all the lanes, hardly recognizing them since their names had changed. Then he sat for an hour in the oldest-looking inn. In a blissful mood, he tried in vain to impress the landlord with Latin, waiting for some scholar to pop by and exchange jokes in the learned language or perhaps to argue with him about the town. The only scholar who stopped by spoke in a strange language, mostly to a bull-pup, and never to him. Late at night, he reluctantly headed home, never feeling more pleased than when, in a dark alley, a proctor greeted him and asked if he could be a member of the University. But the little note inviting him to be at—— College at—— A.M. the next day never arrived, and he missed out on the honor of being the first University member who couldn’t pay a fine.

INTERIOR OF THE HALL, MAGDALEN COLLEGE
INTERIOR OF THE HALL, MAGDALEN COLLEGE
At the east end of the Hall, facing the spectator, is the daïs and high table, lighted from the north by an oriel window looking into the Cloister Court (see picture of Cloisters).
At the east end of the Hall, facing the audience, is the raised platform and main table, illuminated from the north by a bay window that overlooks the Cloister Court (see picture of Cloisters).
Portraits of College dignitaries adorn the walls above the dado.
Portraits of college officials decorate the walls above the wainscoting.
The long tables and seats in the foreground are used by the undergraduates.
The long tables and chairs in the front are used by the undergraduates.
memoried hours that followed. When sleep caught him at last, with what happiness and pomp he walked down St. Aldate’s and along Blue Boar Street and Merton Street, and came suddenly upon Wren’s domed gate at Queen’s! or paused in St. Mary’s porches, or found the inmost green sanctuary of Wadham Gardens!
memoried hours that followed. When sleep caught him at last, with what happiness and pomp he walked down St. Aldate’s and along Blue Boar Street and Merton Street, and came suddenly upon Wren’s domed gate at Queen’s! or paused in St. Mary’s porches, or found the inmost green sanctuary of Wadham Gardens!
Once he dreamed that on a Sunday he preached from the little outdoor pulpit at Magdalen, where he mounted by some artifice of sleep’s. The chamber windows and quadrangles were full. His voice rose and linked to him the crowd outside in High Street. All remained silent, even when it was known that the hieroglyphics were skipping from their perches in the cloister and carrying off large numbers, no one knew whither. Those that were spared—and his voice rose ever higher, and expanded like the column and fans of masonry at Christ Church—were stripped of their waistcoats and ties and all their luxuries and dignities. Their hair was shaved: presently they were all cowled, and with a great shout hailed him Chancellor. He floated down from the pulpit and led them down the High, evicting the pampered tradespeople and fettering all parasites. Singing a charging hymn, they marched in procession to St. Mary’s, and thence to a feast at Christ Church hall; when he awoke with the din of revelry.
Once, he dreamed that on a Sunday he preached from the small outdoor pulpit at Magdalen, which he reached through some trick of sleep. The windows and courtyards of the chambers were packed. His voice rose and connected him to the crowd outside on High Street. Everyone was quiet, even when it became clear that the hieroglyphics were jumping from their perches in the cloister and taking off a large number of people, no one knew where. Those who were left—and his voice soared even higher, expanding like the columns and arches at Christ Church—were stripped of their vests and ties and all their luxuries and dignities. Their hair was shaved; soon, they were all wearing cowls and with a great shout, they called him Chancellor. He stepped down from the pulpit and led them down High Street, driving out the pampered merchants and capturing all the freeloaders. Singing a rousing hymn, they marched in a procession to St. Mary’s and then to a feast at Christ Church hall; he woke up to the sound of celebration.
Sometimes, in his dreams, he saw enacted the Greek tragedies, to the accompaniment of the organs of New College and the Cathedral.
Sometimes, in his dreams, he saw the Greek tragedies performed, accompanied by the organs of New College and the Cathedral.
Now that he knew his plays by heart, he came oftener[Pg 306] to Oxford, and gained the freedom of the Bodleian. Every day he came, bringing his own books to fill the interval before the library books arrived, although for the most part he stared at the gilt inscriptions outside his alcove window, or at the trees and roofs farther off. When he was hidden among the expected volumes he read but feverishly. He put questions to himself in the style of the schoolmen, and pondered “whether the music of the spheres be verse or prose.” He tingled all over with the learned air, and was intoxicated by the dust of a little-used book. The brown spray that fell from a volume on the shelf before him was sweeter than the south wind. Week after week obscured his aims. The only moments of his old chanting joy came to him in his still undiluted expectations, when he came in sight of the city—
Now that he knew his plays by heart, he visited Oxford more often[Pg 306] and got access to the Bodleian Library. Every day, he came bringing his own books to fill the time until the library books arrived, though mostly he just stared at the gold inscriptions outside his alcove window or at the trees and rooftops in the distance. When he was surrounded by the books he expected, he read only with a sense of urgency. He asked himself questions like the scholars did, pondering “whether the music of the spheres is verse or prose.” He felt a thrill from the scholarly atmosphere and was intoxicated by the dust of an old book. The brown dust that fell from a volume on the shelf in front of him was sweeter than a warm breeze. Week after week clouded his goals. The only moments of his former joyful chanting came to him in his untainted hopes when he caught sight of the city—
and at night, while the river shone like an infinite train let fall from the shoulders of the city.
and at night, as the river sparkled like a never-ending string of lights dropped from the city’s shoulders.
He sold his books in Little Clarendon Street, and whenever he wished to read, there he found them and others ready. Most of his time passed in the corner of an inn, where he sat at a hole in the dark window as at a hagioscope, and with heavy eyelids watched the University men. And it was possible to earn a living by selling the Star for a penny, night after night, and to have the felicity of dying in Oxford.[Pg 308][Pg 307]
He sold his books on Little Clarendon Street, and whenever he wanted to read, he found them and other books there. Most of his time was spent in a corner of a pub, where he sat by a dark window like a peep hole and, with heavy eyelids, watched the university students. It was possible to make a living selling the Star for a penny, night after night, and to have the joy of dying in Oxford.[Pg 308][Pg 307]

A “STUDY” IN THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY
A “STUDY” IN THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY
The window in the “study” looks south into the Fellows’ Garden of Exeter College. To the right, outside the picture, is the main aisle of the Library, shown in another drawing, and to the extreme left is a glimpse of the cross aisle leading to the staircase entrance to the Library, the columns supporting the galleries, and the ancient timbered roof.
The window in the “study” faces south into the Fellows’ Garden of Exeter College. On the right, outside the frame, is the main aisle of the Library, depicted in another drawing, and on the far left is a view of the cross aisle that leads to the staircase entrance to the Library, featuring the columns that support the galleries and the old timbered roof.
Beneath the coloured bust of Sir Thomas Sackville, and on the screen forming one side of the “study,” are placed rare portraits of distinguished persons, and “drawings” by old masters, etc.
Beneath the colorful bust of Sir Thomas Sackville, and on the wall forming one side of the “study,” are displayed rare portraits of notable individuals, along with “drawings” by old masters, etc.
In the showcase fixed over the specimen-drawers are books, relics, autographs, etc., and objects of great value and antiquity.
In the display case above the specimen drawers are books, artifacts, autographs, and other items of significant value and history.
The Past
The Past
I
There lived a poor student with him,
He had learned art, but all his imagination Was turned to learn astrology,
And could reach certain conclusions,
To demand through interrogations,
If those men should have drought or else showers.
Or if men asked him what should happen I can't account for everything. This clerk was named Hendė Nicholas.
He knew about love and comfort, And he was sly and very secretive,
And like a maiden made for to see.
He had a room in that inn. Alone without any company,
And expertly decorated, with sweet herbs, And he himself is as sweet as the root Of lycorys, or any cetėwale.
His Almagest, and books both large and small,
His astrolabe, longing for his craft,
His grim stones lay fair apart,
On the shelf next to his bed. His press covered with a folding reed,
And above all of that was a cheerful lute,
On which he created a nighttime melody So sweetly, that all the room rang,
And Angelas ad Virginem, he sings;
And after that he sang the “Kyngės noote”;
Often blessed was his happy voice,
And so this sweet clerk spent his time After his friend’s finding and his income.
Such was a “clerk of Oxenford” in Chaucer’s day, living probably on the generosity of a patron, and differing only from his patron’s son, inasmuch as he[Pg 312] was saved the expense of a fur hood. In the rooms of most, Bibles, Missals, or an Aristotle or Boethius, took the place of the Almagest of the astrologer; and more conspicuous were the rosaries, lutes, bows and arrows of the undergraduates. In their boisterous parti-coloured life of almost liberty, even an examination was a vivid thing, and meant a disputation against all comers in a public school, to be followed by a feast of celebration, visits to taverns, and probably a dance,
Such was a "clerk from Oxford" in Chaucer's time, likely living off the kindness of a benefactor, and only differing from his benefactor's son in that he was spared the cost of a fur hood. In the rooms of most students, Bibles, Missals, or a copy of Aristotle or Boethius took the place of the astrologer's Almagest; and more visible were the rosaries, lutes, bows, and arrows of the undergraduates. In their lively, colorful lives of nearly total freedom, even an exam was an exciting event, involving a debate against everyone in a public school, followed by a celebration feast, visits to pubs, and probably a dance.
and so, after a fight with saucy tradesmen or foreigners, to bed, or Binsey for a hare, or to other night work.
and so, after a scuffle with cheeky merchants or foreigners, to bed, or Binsey for a hare, or to other nighttime tasks.
II
“A meere young Gentleman of the Universitie is one that comes there to weare a gowne, and to say hereafter, he has been at the Universitie. His Father sent him thither, because hee heard there were the best Fencing and Dancing Schools. From these he has his Education, from his Tutor the oversight. The first element of his knowledge is to be shewne the Colleges, and initiated in a Taverne by the way, which hereafter hee will learne for himselfe. The two marks of his Senioritie, is the bare velvet of his gowne, and his proficiencie at Tennis, where when he can once play a Set, he is a Freshman no more. His Studie has commonly handsome shelves, his Bookes neate silk strings, which he shows to his Father’s man, and is loth to untye or take downe for feare of misplacing. Upon[Pg 313] foule days for recreation hee retyres thither, and looks over the prety booke his Tutor reades to him, which is commonly some short Historie, or a piece of Euphormio; for which his Tutor gives him Money to spend next day. His maine loytering is at the Library, where hee studies Armes and bookes of Honour, and turnes a Gentleman Critick in Pedigrees. Of all things hee endures not to be mistaken for a Scholler, and hates a black suit though it be of Satin. His companion is ordinarily some stale fellow, that has been notorious for an Ingle to gold hatbands, whom hee admires at first, afterward scornes. If hee have spirit or wit, he may light of better company, and may learne some flashes of wit, which may doe him Knight’s service in the Country hereafter. But he is now gone to the Inns of Court, where he studies to forget what hee learn’d before, his acquaintance and the fashion.”
“A young gentleman at the university is someone who goes there just to wear a gown and later say he attended the university. His father sent him there because he heard it has the best fencing and dancing schools. This is where he gets his education, with his tutor overseeing him. The first part of his knowledge is to be shown around the colleges and initiated in a tavern, which he will later learn to navigate on his own. The two marks of his seniority are the plain velvet of his gown and his proficiency at tennis—once he can play a set, he’s no longer a freshman. His study typically has nice shelves, his books are neatly tied with silk ribbons, which he shows off to his father's servant, not wanting to untie or take them down for fear of misplacing them. On[Pg 313] rainy days for fun, he retreats to look over the pretty book his tutor reads to him, usually a short history or a piece from Euphormio; for which his tutor gives him money to spend the next day. He mainly lounges at the library, where he studies arms and books of honor, becoming a gentleman critic on pedigrees. Above all, he can't stand being mistaken for a scholar and despises wearing a black suit, even if it’s satin. His usual companion is some washed-up guy, notorious for his interest in gold-embroidered hatbands, whom he admires at first but then later scorns. If he has any spirit or wit, he might find better company and pick up some clever remarks that could serve him well as a knight in the country later on. But now he’s off to the Inns of Court, where he studies to forget everything he learned before, including his acquaintances and his style.”
From the Microcosmographie.
From the Microcosmographie.
III
The younger Richard Graves (1715-1804), a contemporary of Shenstone and Whitfield at Pembroke, has sketched, in his own person, the unstable undergraduate of sixteen, in his progress from set to set. It is a very lasting type. “Having brought with me,” he writes, “the character of a tolerably good Grecian, I was invited to a very sober little party, who amused themselves in the evening with reading Greek and drinking water. Here I continued six months, and[Pg 314] we read over Theophrastus, Epictetus, Phalaris’ Epistles, and such other Greek authors as are seldom read at school. But I was at length seduced from this mortified symposium to a very different party, a set of jolly, sprightly young fellows, most of them west-country lads, who drank ale, smoked tobacco, punned, and sang bacchanalian catches the whole evening. I began to think them the only wise men. Some gentlemen commoners, however, who considered the above-mentioned very low company (chiefly on account of the liquor they drank), good-naturedly invited me to their party; they treated me with port wine and arrack punch; and now and then, when they had drunk so much as hardly to distinguish wine from water, they would conclude with a bottle or two of claret. They kept late hours, drank their favourite toasts on their knees, and in short were what were then called ‘bucks of the first head.’”
The younger Richard Graves (1715-1804), a contemporary of Shenstone and Whitfield at Pembroke, has portrayed, through his own experiences, the unstable sixteen-year-old undergraduate navigating from one social group to another. It's a timeless character. “I came in with the reputation of being a pretty decent Greek scholar,” he writes, “and I got invited to a very serious little gathering, where they spent their evenings reading Greek and drinking water. I was there for six months, and[Pg 314] we covered Theophrastus, Epictetus, Phalaris’ Epistles, and other Greek authors rarely studied in school. But eventually, I was lured away from this sober gathering to a very different scene—a group of lively, cheerful guys, mostly from the West Country, who drank ale, smoked tobacco, made puns, and sang rowdy songs all night. I started to think they were the only wise ones. Some gentlemen commoners, however, who regarded the aforementioned group as rather lowly (mainly because of the alcohol they consumed), kindly invited me to their party; they treated me to port wine and arrack punch; and sometimes, after drinking so much they could hardly tell wine from water, they’d finish up with a couple of bottles of claret. They kept late hours, toasted their favorites while kneeling, and were, in short, what were then called ‘bucks of the first head.’"”
IV
The Lownger
The Lounge
Play a tune on my flute, or maybe create a pen;
Read a play until eleven, or adjust my fancy hat;
Then I'll head over to my neighbor's to chat until dinner. Dinner's done, I'm off to Tom’s or James’s, The Town's News is eager to find out: While Law, Locke, and Newton, and all the rum Race That discussion about their Modes, their Ellipses, and Space,
The Seat of the Soul and new systems up high, In Holes, as mysterious as their secrets are. __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ From the coffee house, I went to play tennis. And at five, I head back to my College to pray:[Pg 315]
I eat before eight and stay safe from all the creditors,
March boldly to the Mitre, or Tuns; Where in Punch or good Claret I drown my sorrows,
And give a trophy to the best in town:
At 1 AM, I call to find out what needs to be paid,
Then I stagger away home to my college. So I drink all night while I waste time all day. From the Oxford Sausage.
V
I have taken from Glanvil’s Vanity of Dogmatizing the original version of the story of Matthew Arnold’s Scholar Gypsy.
I have taken from Glanvil’s Vanity of Dogmatizing the original version of the story of Matthew Arnold’s Scholar Gypsy.
“There was very lately a lad in the University of Oxford, who being of very pregnant and ready parts, and yet wanting the encouragement of preferment, was by his poverty forc’d to leave his studies there, and to cast himself upon the wide world for a livelyhood. Now, his necessities growing dayly on him, and wanting the help of friends to relieve him, he was at last forced to join himself to a company of Vagabond Gypsies, whom occasionally he met with, and to follow their Trade for a maintenance. Among these extravagant people, by the insinuating subtilty of his carriage, he quickly got so much of their love and esteem; as that they discovered to him their Mystery: in the practice of which, by the pregnancy of his wit and parts he soon grew so good and proficient, as to be able to outdo his Instructors. After he had been a pretty while well exercised in the Trade; there chanc’d to ride by a couple of Scholars who had formerly bin of his acquaint[Pg 316]ance. The Scholars had quickly spyed out their old friend among the Gypsies; and their amazement to see him among such society, had well nigh discovered him; but by a sign he prevented their owning him before that crew, and taking one of them aside privately, desired him with a friend to go to an Inn, not far distant thence, promising there to come to them. They accordingly went thither, and he follows: after their first salutations, his friends enquire how he came to lead so odd a life as that was, and to joyn himself with such a cheating, beggarly company. The Scholar Gypsy having given them an account of the necessity, which drove him to that kind of life; told them, that the people he went with were not such Imposters as they were taken for, but that they had a traditional kind of learning among them, and could do wonders by the power of Imagination, and that himself had learnt much of their Art, and improved it further than themselves could. And to evince the truth of what he told them, he said he’d remove into another room, leaving them to discourse together; and upon his return tell them the sum of what they had talked of. Which accordingly he performed, giving them a full account of what had pass’d between them in his absence. The Scholars being amazed at so unexpected a discovery, earnestly desired him to unriddle the mystery. In which he gave them satisfaction, by telling them, that what he did was by the power of Imagination, his Phancy binding theirs; and that himself had dictated to them the discourse, they held together, while he was from[Pg 317] them: That there were warrantable wayes of heightening the Imagination to that pitch, as to bind another’s; and that when he had compass’d the whole secret, some parts of which he said he was yet ignorant of, he intended to leave their company, and give the world an account of what he had learned.[Pg 319][Pg 318]”
“There was recently a young man at the University of Oxford who, being very intelligent and quick-witted but lacking the support of any advancement, was forced by his financial situation to leave his studies and venture into the wider world to make a living. As his needs grew daily and he didn’t have friends to help him, he eventually had to join a group of wandering gypsies that he happened to come across, relying on their lifestyle for his survival. Among these unconventional people, his charm and cleverness quickly earned their love and respect, allowing them to reveal their secrets to him. With his sharp mind, he quickly excelled in their ways, becoming even better than his teachers. After he had spent some time practicing this trade, a couple of scholars who had previously been his acquaintances rode by. The scholars quickly spotted their old friend among the gypsies, and their shock at seeing him in such company nearly gave him away; however, he managed to signal them to keep quiet and, taking one aside privately, asked him to meet him at a nearby inn, promising to join them there. They went to the inn, and he followed. After exchanging greetings, his friends asked how he ended up living such a strange life, mingling with such a deceptive and impoverished group. The scholar-gypsy explained the necessity that forced him into that life, stating that the people he traveled with weren't the frauds they seemed to be, but that they had a form of traditional knowledge and could perform wonders through imagination, and that he had learned a lot from them and taken it further than they could. To prove his point, he said he would move to another room, leaving them to talk, and upon his return, he would share everything they discussed. He did just that, giving them a complete account of their conversation while he was gone. The scholars were astonished by this surprising revelation and eagerly asked him to explain the mystery. He satisfied their curiosity by saying that what he did was through the power of imagination, where his thoughts connected with theirs, and he had influenced their discussion while he was away. He also mentioned that there were legitimate ways to elevate one’s imagination to the point of connecting with another’s, and once he fully understood this secret, some parts of which he admitted he still didn’t grasp, he planned to leave their company and share what he had learned.”
COLLEGE SERVANTS
OF THE PRESENT AND THE PAST
CHAPTER V
COLLEGE SERVANTS OF THE PRESENT AND THE PAST
The Now
The fact that no porter or other college servant has recently received a D.C.L. is no proof of his insignificance. “The President and your humble servant manage very well between us,” said one porter, with perfect truth. College servants are the corbels and gargoyles that complete the picturesqueness and usefulness of Oxford. The oldest are not so much serviceable as quaint, often grotesque, reminders of an age that has gone; their faces are apt to express grim judgments upon the changes which they have helplessly watched; and they are among the stoutest retainers of the past. The younger are either very much like any other good men-servants, silent, receptive, curious but uninquiring, expensive, and better able to instruct than to learn; or they are average men, with Oxford variations. In spite of their profound knowledge of the richer classes, they remain, as a body, good conservatives, with the half-sarcastic, half-reverent servility of their order. They[Pg 322] do not often change; the men whom they serve are replaced every year by others; and looking on at generation after generation, they are not only skilled and practical psychologists, and almost the only persons in Oxford who wear silk hats on Sunday, but perhaps the most enduring human element in the University. “Well,” says an eighteenth-century “scout” to another to-day, in an undergraduate “dialogue of the dead”—“Well, I suppose gentlemen are no worse and servants no better than in my time?” “Such a thing is impossible” was the reply. Yet one may surmise that they are more plutocratic, at least, than they were, if it be true that every summer at a Scottish hotel one may find “Mr. and Mrs. Brown of—— College, Oxford” on the pages of the visitors’ book, in a handwriting known to the buttery. In the game which they play with the undergraduates, they know all their opponents’ cards. Yet, until a member of the University is admitted to the cellar and pantry parliament, they will always be praised as reticent and discreet. A little inexperience will soon reveal, as the freshman knows, the other qualities of the college servant.
The fact that no porter or other college staff member has recently received a D.C.L. doesn’t mean they’re not important. “The President and I get along just fine,” one porter said, with complete honesty. College staff are like the corbels and gargoyles that add both charm and function to Oxford. The older ones are more quirky and strange than actually useful, often serving as peculiar reminders of a bygone era; their faces often show grim judgments about the changes they've helplessly witnessed, and they are some of the strongest links to the past. The younger ones are either just like any other good servants—quiet, attentive, curious but not overly inquisitive, expensive, and often better at giving instructions than receiving them—or they are average guys with some Oxford flair. Despite their deep knowledge of the wealthy, as a group, they tend to be good conservatives, displaying a mix of sarcasm and reverence. They[Pg 322] don’t change much; the people they serve are replaced every year, and as they watch generation after generation go by, they become skilled and practical psychologists—almost the only ones in Oxford who wear silk hats on Sundays—and perhaps the most enduring human element in the University. “Well,” says an eighteenth-century “scout” to another today, in a kind of undergraduate “dialogue of the dead”—“Well, I guess gentlemen are no worse and servants no better than in my time?” “That’s impossible,” comes the reply. Yet, one might guess that they are at least more affluent now, if it's true that every summer at a Scottish hotel, you can find “Mr. and Mrs. Brown of—— College, Oxford” in the visitors’ book, their handwriting familiar to the buttery. In the game they play with undergraduates, they know all their opponents’ cards. However, until a member of the University is allowed into the inner circle of the cellar and pantry, they’ll continue to be praised for their reticence and discretion. A little inexperience will quickly show, as the freshman learns, the other traits of the college staff member.
I
He awakens you every morning by playing with your bath, and is a perpetually recurring background to the sweet disquiet of your last half-hour in bed. In serving you, he serves himself; and late in the day he[Pg 323] is to be seen with a wallet on his back, bent under such “learning’s crumbs” as half-empty wine-bottles and jars of Cooper’s marmalade. In these matters he has a neat running hand, without flourishes. No man has the air of being so much as he the right hand of fate. When he drinks your wine and disappoints a joyous company, when he assumes your best cigars, and leaves only those which were provided for the freshman of taste—so inevitable are his ways that you can only hope sarcastically that he liked the fare. He appears to have a noble scorn of cash, when he asks for it; and you are bound to imitate. All the wisdom of the wise is cheap compared with his manner of beginning a speech with, “If you please, sir, it is usual for freshmen to, ...” while he is dusting your photographs. He is blessed with an incapacity to blush. His politics are those of the majority; his religion has something in common with that of all men. He could be conscientiously recommended for a post in a temple niche or a street corner, with the inscription “For twenty years a mate at sea, and blinded in the pursuit of my duties,” or “Crippled in childhood.” He is equalled only by his “boy,” who is perhaps older than himself. I remember one such. I should like to have known his tailor, who must have had a genius for style, for fitting aptest clothes for men. His coat was as many-pocketed as Panurge’s, and as wonderful. Its bulges and creases were an epitome of——; its “hang” might serve as the one true epitaph, if suspended over his tomb. With all his faults, he had that toleration which the vicious[Pg 324] often extend to the good, but do not often receive in return. He was a fellow of infinite wiles that were wasted but not thrown away in a world of three or four quadrangles and a buttery. Full of traditions, he was their master, not their prey; and though he was the shadow of great names, he seemed conscious of being their inheritor too. For he had served men who had got fellowships and even Rugby or rowing Blues. With leading cases out of this mighty past he defended his misdemeanours and supported his proposals. In vain he toiled after time; he was always a generation behind. If a man failed in “Smalls” or Divinity, he was told that Mr.——, the “Varsity three-quarter,” did no less, and Mr.——, who rowed at Henley and was sent down after a bonfire, was ploughed four times. “Lightly like a flower” he wore his honours, tyrannising over men who never got Blues and were never sent down, and smiling away awe and ridicule alike. “I never saw nor shall see such men as Pirithous, ...” he might have said; it mattered little to him; and even Pirithous was only respected after many years, when he had become an investment of the “boy’s.” He quoted wise saws, was full of advice, offered with a kind of humility and yet indifference, because you were so small a factor in his self-satisfaction.
He wakes you up every morning by playing with your bath, and he’s always there in the background during the sweet discomfort of your last half-hour in bed. By serving you, he helps himself; and later in the day, you can see him with a wallet on his back, weighed down by the “crumbs of learning” like half-empty wine bottles and jars of Cooper’s marmalade. He writes neatly without any special flourishes. No one seems as much the right hand of fate as he does. When he drinks your wine and disappoints a cheerful gathering, when he takes your best cigars and leaves only the ones meant for inexperienced newcomers—his actions are so predictable that you can only hope sarcastically that he enjoyed what he had. He seems to have a noble disdain for money when he asks for it, and you feel compelled to follow his lead. All the wisdom in the world is trivial compared to the way he begins a conversation with, “If you please, sir, it’s customary for freshmen to...” while he dusts your photographs. He’s blessed with an inability to blush. His politics align with the majority; his religion resembles that of everyone else. He could be genuinely recommended for a position in a temple or on a street corner, with signs saying “For twenty years a mate at sea, and blinded in the pursuit of my duties,” or “Crippled in childhood.” He’s only matched by his “boy,” who might actually be older than he is. I remember one like that. I would have liked to know his tailor, who must have had a knack for style and fitting the best clothes for men. His coat had as many pockets as Panurge’s and was just as impressive. Its bulges and creases told a story; its shape could serve as the true epitaph if it were hung over his grave. Despite his flaws, he had the kind of tolerance that the wicked often give to the good but rarely get back. He was someone with endless clever tricks that were wasted but not entirely lost in a world of three or four courtyards and a dining hall. Rich in traditions, he was their master, not their victim; and although he was a mere shadow of great names, he seemed aware that he was their heir too. He had served people who earned fellowships and even competed in Rugby or rowing Blues. With notable examples from this illustrious past, he defended his missteps and supported his ideas. He worked hard to keep up with the times, but he was always a generation behind. If someone failed in “Smalls” or Divinity, they were told that Mr.——, the “Varsity three-quarter,” did just as poorly, and Mr.——, who rowed at Henley and was expelled after starting a bonfire, failed four times. “Light as a flower,” he wore his honors, dominating those who never earned Blues and were never expelled, effortlessly dismissing both awe and mockery. “I never saw nor will I see such men as Pirithous, ...” he might have remarked; it didn't matter much to him, and even Pirithous was only respected after many years, when he became an investment of the “boy’s.” He quoted wise sayings, was full of advice given with a mix of humility and indifference, as you were just a minor part of his self-satisfaction.
Wise Ignorance casts her gloomy shadow over learning. And stamps over your face, which was once so cheerful,
Meaningless Gravity’s calm stillness.
[Pg 325]
And so he goes through life, with all the pomp of learning—of the reality, none—complacent, imposing, and yet hardly a man.
And so he goes through life, flaunting his knowledge—without any real understanding—self-satisfied, overbearing, and yet barely a man.
II
Of the college cook it is easy to say too much. He is a potentate against whom there is no appeal on earth. “Much knavery,” says Ben Jonson, “may be vented in a pudding.” In the days of the Shotover Papers he could offer in exchange for a recipe “an introduction to some country families.” At the monastic door of his kitchen, as he meditates his mysteries, something of the Middle Ages clings to him yet, and he is half an abbot, contemptuous of a generation that makes small demand upon his subtlety and wealth. It is said that he comes of brilliant ancestry and has fallen. What heights there may be in the world from which a man could be said to fall in becoming a college cook, I do not know. For years he made clear the distinction between fancy and imagination. By fancy he lived, and on his fancies generations fed. He could disguise the meanest materials, and make them illustrious, subtle, or exquisitely sweet. He was animal propter convivia natum. In his grey kitchen, with chestnut beams aloft, a visitor seemed to assist at the inauguration of a perpetual spring. On the one hand was the earth—the raw material—the mere flesh or fish; and out of this, with upturned sleeves, like artist or conjuror, he made the flowers flourish and the leaves abound. By the perfume, it was a mysterious indoor Mayday. And so[Pg 326] he lived, and was feared and respected. But it was admitted that he had rivals. Something in a grander style was yet to be done....
Of the college cook, it's easy to say too much. He's a powerful figure with no one to challenge him. “A lot of tricks,” Ben Jonson once said, “can be hidden in a pudding.” Back in the days of the Shotover Papers, he could trade a recipe for “an introduction to some country families.” At the entrance to his kitchen, as he thinks about his culinary secrets, he still has a bit of that medieval vibe, resembling a half-abbot, looking down on a generation that demands little of his creativity and talent. People say he comes from a prestigious background but has declined. I’m not sure what high positions someone could fall from to become a college cook. For years, he clearly distinguished between fancy and imagination. He lived by fancy, and generations thrived on his creations. He could transform the simplest ingredients into something remarkable, subtle, or incredibly sweet. He was animal propter convivia natum. In his gray kitchen, with chestnut beams overhead, a visitor felt like they were experiencing the start of an eternal spring. On one side was the earth—the raw materials—just a piece of meat or fish; and from this, with rolled-up sleeves, like an artist or magician, he made the flowers bloom and the leaves flourish. The air was filled with the scent of a mysterious indoor May Day. And so[Pg 326] he lived, both feared and respected. But it was acknowledged that he had rivals. Something grander was yet to be achieved...
It was mid-February. Wherever I looked, I saw first the cold white sky above and the snow beneath, and secondly the red faces of skaters out of doors, and indoors the blaze of great fires and the purple and gold of wine. Winter was to be met in every street—white-haired, it is true, but nevertheless a lusty, red-faced fellow, redder than autumn, with a grip of the hands and a roaring voice. As I passed the kitchen, the cook was silently at work. His hair was like the snow, his face like the fire. The brass, steel, pewter, and silver shone. The kitchen, with its fragrance, lustre, and quietness, was like an altar. There, too, was the priest, with stainless vestment and sacerdotal bearing. And as I left him and mounted the stairs, I seemed unblest. I found Scott tedious, Pater excessive, and Sir Thomas Browne a trifler, and threw them aside. Soon there was a knock at the door, and a man—a throne, domination, princedom, virtue, power—swept magnificently in. A light and a warmth, beyond the power of fire to bestow, accompanied him. He bent down solemnly and laid a little white covered plate upon the hearth. Before I could speak—“the gods themselves are hard to recognise”—he was gone. I uncovered the plate with something of my visitant’s solemnity—
It was mid-February. Everywhere I looked, I saw first the cold white sky above and the snow below, and then the red faces of skaters outside, and inside, the warmth of big fires and the rich colors of wine. Winter was present in every street—white-haired, yes, but still a strong, red-faced guy, redder than autumn, with a firm grip and a booming voice. As I walked past the kitchen, the cook was silently at work. His hair was like the snow, his face like the fire. The brass, steel, pewter, and silver shone. The kitchen, with its smells, shine, and calm, was like an altar. There, too, was the priest, with spotless attire and dignified presence. And as I left him and climbed the stairs, I felt unblessed. I found Scott boring, Pater excessive, and Sir Thomas Browne trivial, and pushed them aside. Soon there was a knock at the door, and a man—embodying a throne, authority, princeliness, virtue, and power—swept in grandly. A light and warmth, beyond what fire could provide, followed him. He bent down seriously and set a small covered white plate on the hearth. Before I could say anything—“the gods themselves are hard to recognize”—he was gone. I uncovered the plate with a bit of my visitor’s seriousness—
In whom such mysteries and beauties combine!
Still from your ancient dwelling, come down,
And romanticize our overly physical world; __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ Still lend your pure ideas to the Bard, Renew your early purity for him; Surround every image with majestic grace; Until the lively song shines brightly With inspiration as your true essence,
And the creations of Poetry, adorned by you,
Will awaken the melodious excitement of pleasurable ecstasy.
It was the climacteric of his career, and he shall go down to posterity upon the palates of men, not as one who worked out his recipes to three places of decimals, or as a distinguished maker of “bishop” or “posset,” or as one worth his weight in oysters, but as the creator of that necessary which is in fact brown bread, toasted and buttered.
It was the peak of his career, and he will be remembered by future generations not as someone who calculated his recipes to three decimal places, or as a notable maker of “bishop” or “posset,” or as someone valued for his weight in oysters, but as the creator of that essential which is essentially brown bread, toasted and buttered.
III
Most pontifical of all college servants was old Acamas, who was not long ago to be seen, in his retirement, apparently beating the city bounds, and now and then standing sentry and defender of some old gate or archway. I first noticed him in the chapel quadrangle of——, and could almost have mistaken him for a fellow of the old school, such was his aspect, and the reverent, half-wondering air with which he surveyed the buildings. But he took off his hat to the junior fellow, and I was undeceived. There was something pathetic in that salute. He was himself apparently far worthier than the young man in flannels of the chapel and the ancient arms; and he seemed to know it, as he bent and trembled over his stick to declaim:—
Most distinguished of all the college staff was old Acamas, who not long ago could be seen in his retirement, seemingly patrolling the city boundaries, occasionally standing guard at some old gate or archway. I first spotted him in the chapel courtyard of——, and I could almost have mistaken him for an old-school fellow, given his appearance and the respectful, slightly amazed expression with which he looked at the buildings. But he took off his hat to the junior fellow, and I was brought back to reality. There was something touching about that gesture. He seemed far more deserving than the young man in the chapel's flannels and the ancient coat of arms; and he appeared to know it, as he bent and trembled over his cane to speak:—
“He may be a very clever young gentleman, but,[Pg 328] bless me, it is not the Greek that makes the scholar. There was the old President, who never looked at his book, and was all for horses;—but he had a way with him; he would swear just so, so; he was a scholar, if ever a man was. But the new ones are just all book or all play. They came in about the same time as bicycles and steam ploughs and such nonsense. And there’s too much lady about the college now; and such ladies! they are so dressed that it is hard to tell which of them is quite respectable....”
“He might be a really smart young guy, but,[Pg 328] honestly, it's not just the Greek that makes someone a scholar. There was the old President, who never even opened a book and was all about horses; he had his own charm; he would swear just right, you know; he was a scholar, without a doubt. But the new ones are either completely into books or just playing around. They showed up around the same time as bicycles and steam plows and all that nonsense. And there's too much femininity in the college now; and such women! They dress so extravagantly that it’s hard to tell which of them is truly respectable....”
And so he went on, a little less reverent than he looked. But it was only a crimson heat of old age, and soon passed.
And so he continued, a bit less respectful than he appeared. But it was just a fleeting flush of old age, and it quickly faded.
What a fine, decent figure he was. He was clothed in a dull black suit, with black tie, and an old-shaped hat, and wore his gloves. He had unquestionably a professional mien, and could not have been a gardener or groom. He was something old, settled in the land and known to the stars, traditional. His sorrow was nothing less dignified than disestablishment. It was time to be going. The enemy was in possession and insulting. He had been in the Balliol fellows’ garden ages ago, and knew what a line the old buildings made against the sky, and what the scene is now. He would walk about, hoping to express a volley of scorn by his silence to persons with no ear for silence. He never went into Tom quad at Christ Church without missing the figure of Mercury—perhaps a copy from John of Bologna, and taken down early last century—which used to preside over the fountain, still known as[Pg 330][Pg 329]
What a great, respectable figure he was. He wore a plain black suit, a black tie, and an old-style hat, with gloves on. He definitely had a professional demeanor and couldn’t have been a gardener or stablehand. He represented something old, settled in the land and familiar with the stars, traditional. His sorrow was nothing less than the loss of standing. It was time to leave. The enemy was in control and disrespectful. He had visited the Balliol fellows’ garden long ago and remembered how beautifully the old buildings stood against the sky, and how things are now. He would stroll around, hoping to convey a wave of contempt through his silence to those who couldn’t appreciate silence. He never stepped into Tom quad at Christ Church without missing the statue of Mercury—perhaps a replica of John of Bologna, taken down early last century—which used to oversee the fountain, still known as[Pg 330][Pg 329]

THE TOM QUADRANGLE, CHRIST CHURCH, FROM THE SOUTH ENTRANCE
THE TOM QUADRANGLE, CHRIST CHURCH, FROM THE SOUTH ENTRANCE
This Quadrangle was formerly cloistered. The springers, the wall ribs of the vaulting, and the bases of the buttresses may be seen on the two sides of the Quadrangle shown in the picture.
This Quadrangle used to be enclosed. The springers, the wall ribs of the vaulting, and the bases of the buttresses can be seen on the two sides of the Quadrangle shown in the picture.
The Great Hall and tower founded by Cardinal Wolsey are on the right or southern side, whilst opposite, over the eastern buildings, rise the tower and spire of “The Cathedral Church of Christ in Oxford.”
The Great Hall and tower built by Cardinal Wolsey are on the right or south side, while across from them, above the eastern buildings, stand the tower and spire of “The Cathedral Church of Christ in Oxford.”
Part of the basin of the fountain is seen on the left.
Part of the fountain's basin is visible on the left.
The time is late afternoon in summer.
The time is late afternoon in summer.
“Mercury,” and used as a water ordeal or court of ultimate appeal by undergraduates. “That old pagan fellow,” he used to say, “told you more about the size of that quadrangle than the guide-books do”; and certainly nothing short of that or a playing fountain would so pleasantly expound the spaciousness of Wolsey’s square. When some one proposed burning in effigy certain officials at the time of Edward VII.’s coronation, he “did not remember that such things were done at George’s.”
“Mercury,” and used as a water trial or a final court of appeal by undergraduates. “That old pagan guy,” he would say, “made it clear how big that quadrangle is, way better than the guidebooks ever could”; and indeed, nothing less than that or a playing fountain would explain the spaciousness of Wolsey’s square so nicely. When someone suggested burning certain officials in effigy during Edward VII's coronation, he “didn’t recall that such things were done at George’s.”
He stopped to look at the new buildings of the college, and pointing at the whitened stone, said, “I don’t believe that stone is stone at all.” As he passed an entry, full of bicycles, he said sadly, without a thought of scorn, “It was built by public subscription,” and with his hand in his pocket, he seemed to be thinking that the finest thing in the world was to be the sole founder of a college. He once had a distant prospect of the Banbury Road, and would like to make night beautiful with its burning.
He paused to check out the new college buildings and, pointing at the white stone, said, “I don’t think that stone is really stone at all.” As he walked by an entrance filled with bicycles, he said sadly, not out of scorn, “It was built by public donations,” and with his hand in his pocket, he seemed to be reflecting that the greatest thing in the world would be to be the sole founder of a college. He once had a distant view of the Banbury Road and would love to light up the night with its glow.
He still leaves Oxford by coach, or not at all. I believe that he calls Market Street “Cheyney Lane,” and Brasenose Lane “St. Mildred’s,” and Pembroke Street “Pennyfarthing Street.” To hear him talk of St. Scholastica’s day gives one a pretty notion of the antiquity of Oxford and himself. In 1354, on that day, several scholars found fault with the wine of a city vintner, and threw it at his prosperous face. The vintner gathered his neighbours and threatened. St. Martin’s bell was rung, and the city made fierce[Pg 334] preparations at the accustomed summons. Then St. Mary’s bell was rung, and the University came forth with bows and arrows and slings. “Slay,” and “Havock,” and “Give good knocks,” cried the citizens. The fight was long and bloody, and disastrous to the scholars. So for many centuries the city had to appear penitentially at St. Mary’s on St. Scholastica’s day. In 1825 this institution ceased at the corporation’s request. But Acamas will never forgive them, and hardly the University for giving way. “When laudable old customs dwindle, ’tis a sign learning dwindles,” he would say, as Hearne said, when there were no longer any fritters at dinner. Nor is he to be moved by the mundane glories of his college in the schools or elsewhere. A brilliant “examinee” of the college, and his particular aversion, having gained a First in Law, when it was pointed out to him by the scholar’s scout, the old man remarked: “And now I hope he knows what a privilege it is to belong to this college.”
He still leaves Oxford by coach or not at all. I believe he calls Market Street “Cheyney Lane,” Brasenose Lane “St. Mildred’s,” and Pembroke Street “Pennyfarthing Street.” Listening to him talk about St. Scholastica’s Day gives one a good sense of the history of Oxford and himself. In 1354, on that day, several scholars complained about the wine from a local vintner and threw it at his successful face. The vintner gathered his neighbors and threatened them. St. Martin’s bell was rung, and the city prepared fiercely at the usual call. Then St. Mary’s bell was rung, and the University came out with bows, arrows, and slings. “Kill,” and “Destroy,” and “Give good blows,” shouted the citizens. The fight was long, bloody, and disastrous for the scholars. For many centuries, the city had to come to St. Mary’s in penance on St. Scholastica’s Day. In 1825, this tradition ended at the request of the corporation. But Acamas will never forgive them, and hardly the University for giving in. “When admirable old customs fade, it’s a sign that learning fades,” he would say, just like Hearne did when there were no more fritters at dinner. Nor is he swayed by the mundane glories of his college in the schools or elsewhere. A brilliant “exam taker” from the college, who happened to be his particular dislike, earned a First in Law. When the scholar’s scout pointed it out to the old man, he remarked, “And now I hope he knows what a privilege it is to belong to this college.”
How slow and decorous he was at the buttery hatch, performing even his own business as if he were about that of another. He carried a plate as if it were a ceremony; and his imperturbability would have completely endowed a railway porter and several judges. In hall, when once the needs of all the diners had been supplied, he would stand like “Teneriffe or Atlas unremoved,” an effigy, a self-constituted symbol of olden piety and order, bent on asserting sweet ancient things, while fellows raced into hall, and undergraduates raced[Pg 336][Pg 335]
How slow and proper he was at the serving hatch, handling his own tasks as if they were someone else’s. He carried a plate like it was a formal event; and his calm demeanor could have made a railway porter and several judges seem animated. In the dining hall, once all the diners were served, he would stand still like “Tenerife or Atlas unremoved,” a statue, a self-made symbol of old-fashioned respect and order, focused on upholding sweet ancient traditions, while others rushed into the hall, and undergraduates hurried.

CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE AND MERTON TOWER, FROM CHRIST CHURCH MEADOWS
CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE AND MERTON TOWER, FROM CHRIST CHURCH MEADOWS
To the left of the picture shows a portion of the east boundary wall of the gardens of Christ Church, shadowed by elegant silver birch.
To the left of the picture is a section of the east boundary wall of the gardens of Christ Church, shaded by graceful silver birch trees.
Part of Corpus Christi College looks over the Fellows’ Garden, divided from Christ Church Meadows by a wall, upon which is a fence of flowering dahlias.
Part of Corpus Christi College overlooks the Fellows’ Garden, separated from Christ Church Meadows by a wall topped with a fence of blooming dahlias.
The Chapel tower of Merton College rises grandly against the sunset sky.
The chapel tower of Merton College stands proudly against the sunset sky.
In the foreground a pathway fenced from the Meadows runs farther on, under the old south city wall, passing under the Fellows’ Garden of Merton, shown in another picture.
In the foreground, a pathway separated from the Meadows continues on, underneath the old southern city wall, passing beneath the Fellows’ Garden of Merton, depicted in another image.
out. He was one with the coats of arms emblazoned on the panels or the glass, and the benefactors’ portraits up among the shadows of the roof timber, and with the dial on the grass, which says, “I change and am the same.”
out. He was connected to the coats of arms displayed on the panels or the glass, and the portraits of the benefactors up in the shadows of the roof beams, as well as the sundial on the grass, which says, “I change and remain the same.”
He is now seldom outside the old city wall, unless he goes in May to the river through Christ Church or between Merton and Corpus. When he sees Tom tower he makes the melancholy revelation that he once heard Tom boom one time less than the appointed number. As for the flowers in the window-boxes, it is “cook’s work”; he has seen the like ornament “on pastry.” On a bank holiday he is clothed in extraordinary dignity and gloom, and stands with an expression that wields a mace, in the hope of repelling the pleasure-seeker from some holy or learned retreat. If he were not mistaken for an eminent person, it would fare ill with those whose footsteps he dogs, lest they should commit some desecration. He can hardly permit smoking in the quadrangles, and has to turn his back to avoid seeing the accursed thing. At one time, a man dared not run through the purlieus of the Divinity School, for fear of the nod of Acamas.
He hardly ever goes beyond the old city wall now, except when he takes a trip to the river in May through Christ Church or between Merton and Corpus. Whenever he sees Tom's tower, he sadly remembers that he once heard Tom chime one time less than the expected number. As for the flowers in the window boxes, that's just "cook's work"; he's seen similar decorations "on pastry." On a bank holiday, he's dressed with unusual dignity and gloom, standing with an expression that feels like a heavy weapon, hoping to scare away pleasure-seekers from some sacred or scholarly place. If he weren't mistaken for someone important, it would go badly for those he follows, in case they commit some offense. He can hardly stand smoking in the courtyards and has to turn away to avoid seeing it. There was a time when no one dared run through the areas surrounding the Divinity School for fear of Acamas's disapproval.
He is a mirror of good manners, which he has learned out of love, and not necessity. He has a great store of antique information—statutes, precedents, fables—which, as in an aumbry, he keeps fragrant by much meditation, and is pleased to display. His elaborate courtesies are interpreted almost as insults by the new generations; men wonder what they have done to[Pg 340] deserve his withering respect. It is reported that on one occasion, at twilight, a vigorous gentleman brushed past him, between the Camera and Brasenose. Acamas turned, with a soft and bitter protest against “a gentleman forcing what he could command.” “If,” said he, “the Vice-Chancellor were here, he should know that a gentleman had insulted an old college servant by mistaking him for a townsman.” ... He bowed and almost broke his heart when he recognised the beaming face of the Vice-Chancellor.
He is a model of good manners, which he learned out of love, not necessity. He has a wealth of old knowledge—laws, precedents, fables—that he keeps fresh through deep contemplation and enjoys sharing. His intricate politeness is often seen as disrespect by the younger generations; people wonder what they’ve done to[Pg 340] earn his scornful respect. It’s said that one evening, a robust man brushed past him between the Camera and Brasenose. Acamas turned, softly and bitterly protesting against “a gentleman taking liberties with what he could control.” “If,” he said, “the Vice-Chancellor were here, he should know that a gentleman has insulted an old college servant by assuming he was a townsman.” ... He bowed and nearly lost his heart when he recognized the smiling face of the Vice-Chancellor.
He is the corrector of all new abuses and the defender of old, and through his father, a college butler and long since dead, he has the times of Trafalgar fresh in his mind, with imposing third-hand memories of the days when Oxford was Jacobite. The subtle distinguishing marks of all the colleges, as far as concerns fashions of morals and manners, scholarship and sport, he knows by heart, and professes such an experienced acquaintance with like matters that in the High or by the Long Bridges he knows at sight a “Greats” man or a “Stinks” man or a mathematician; of which last he is a determined hater; and when on one occasion he remarked on the good looks of a certain plain person, he was forced to explain that he meant “good-looking for a mathematician.” He would at need devise a new coat of arms for Magdalen or St. John’s, or improve “the devil that looks over Lincoln.”
He is the one who corrects all new problems and defends the old ones, and thanks to his father, who was a college butler and has long since passed away, he vividly remembers the times of Trafalgar, filled with impressive secondhand memories of when Oxford was Jacobite. He knows the subtle differences between all the colleges regarding moral and social customs, academics, and sports by heart. He claims to have such a deep understanding of these matters that on the High or by the Long Bridges, he can spot a "Greats" student, a "Stinks" student, or a mathematician just by looking. He has a strong dislike for mathematicians; in fact, once when he commented on how good-looking a certain plain person was, he had to clarify that he meant “good-looking for a mathematician.” If necessary, he could come up with a new coat of arms for Magdalen or St. John’s, or enhance “the devil that looks over Lincoln.”
Of “his own college” he knows everything, from the cobweb on Jeremy Taylor in the library to the[Pg 341] oldest beam in the kitchen roof. He knows the benefactors and their benefactions, their rank, and everything but the way to pronounce their names; and has a kind of unofficial bidding prayer in celebration of their good deeds. His ideal of a head of a college is an odd mixture of Dean Gaisford and Tatham of Lincoln; for he demands some eccentricity along with dignity and repute, and in the course of three-quarters of a century he has combined the two. The common-room chairs he knows better than those who sit in them—their history and their peculiarities, and who have sat therein. By nice observation he is aware of the correct way of crossing a quadrangle, and of whose furniture should be consumed in bonfires. The spires and gateways of the city are close friends to him, and “Isn’t she beautiful,” or “Isn’t he looking well,” or “They have their little ways,” is his comment as he passes one or other of the things that have brooded over his life continually. He can tell when the bats will come out of the tower in a fine January or a windy March; when the swifts shall scream first by All Saints’; and the colour of New College tower when a storm is due from the west. I can think of him as being the deity of the place, in a mythopœic age, and picture him corniger, with fritillaries in his hoary locks, as the genius of Isis, up in a niche at the Bodleian.[Pg 342]
Of “his own college” he knows everything, from the cobweb on Jeremy Taylor in the library to the[Pg 341] oldest beam in the kitchen roof. He knows the benefactors and their donations, their status, and everything except how to pronounce their names; and he has a sort of unofficial prayer of thanks for their contributions. His ideal head of college is a strange mix of Dean Gaisford and Tatham of Lincoln; he looks for some eccentricity along with dignity and reputation, and over three-quarters of a century, he has blended the two. He knows the common-room chairs better than the people who sit in them—their history, their quirks, and who has occupied them. Through careful observation, he understands the proper way to cross the quadrangle and knows which furniture should be burned in bonfires. The spires and gateways of the city are close friends, and he often comments, “Isn’t she beautiful?” or “Isn’t he looking well?” or “They have their little ways,” as he passes by the things that have been a constant part of his life. He can predict when the bats will emerge from the tower on a clear January night or a windy March day; when the swifts will be the first to scream by All Saints’; and the color of New College tower when a storm is approaching from the west. I can imagine him as the deity of the place, in a mythical age, picturing him corniger, with fritillaries in his gray hair, like the genius of Isis, tucked away in a niche at the Bodleian.[Pg 342]
The Past
I have no doubt that the past had many such to show, and that the present, when it has graduated into a past, will not be found wanting; but the ways of the college servants of old are buried deep in oblivion. They were less numerous then, when a senior and a junior student slept in the same room, and the latter made the beds, etc. Upon scholars, Bible-clerks, and the like, fell a great many of the duties which are now the scout’s—as waiting at the fellows’ table in hall, and the pleasanter although more thankless task of calling up the fellows and more luxurious commoners in the morning. Not only was the scholar or “servitor” a practical servant for part of his time, but the regular servants could be students also, and we may guess from the Corpus statutes that they must sometimes have attended lectures and have taken degrees. A story runs that a vain scholar had sent some Latin verses to his tutor by the hand of a servant, who quickly read and corrected them, to the humiliation of the scholar, when he received them back, with the comment, that his work seemed to have been revised by one who was acquainted with the Latin tongue. No doubt a man of this stamp often rose, or if he stayed in college made his attainments profitable. A man who was once manciple at Wadham became a noted maker of mathematical instruments. The manciple bought and distributed provisions in the college: the cook or[Pg 344][Pg 343]
I’m sure the past had plenty of examples to show, and that when the present becomes the past, it will also prove to be significant; however, the roles of college servants from long ago are mostly forgotten. There were fewer of them back then, when a senior and a junior student shared a room, and the junior student made the beds and such. A lot of the responsibilities that are now taken care of by the scout, like serving at the fellows' table in the hall and the slightly nicer, though thankless, job of waking up the fellows and wealthier commoners in the morning, fell on scholars, Bible-clerks, and similar students. Not only was the scholar or “servitor” a practical servant part of the time, but regular servants could also be students, and we can assume from the Corpus statutes that they sometimes attended lectures and earned degrees. There's a story about a prideful scholar who sent some Latin verses to his tutor through a servant, who read and corrected them quickly, leaving the scholar humiliated when he received them back with the remark that the work seemed to have been edited by someone who actually knew Latin. It's clear that someone like that often succeeded, or if he stayed at college, he made good use of what he learned. A former manciple at Wadham became a well-known maker of mathematical instruments. The manciple was responsible for purchasing and distributing food in the college: the cook or[Pg 344][Pg 343]

THE ENTRANCE TO QUEEN’S COLLEGE FROM LOGIC LANE
THE ENTRANCE TO QUEEN’S COLLEGE FROM LOGIC LANE
The cupola and entrance gate beneath, appearing across the road at the end of Logic Lane, form one of the most attractive objects in the High Street.
The cupola and entrance gate below, visible across the road at the end of Logic Lane, are among the most appealing sights on the High Street.
Behind the cupola shows part of the campanile and pediment of the buildings of the College on the north side of the Great Quadrangle. The statue is that of Queen Caroline, consort of George II. The buildings on the left of the picture belong to University College.
Behind the dome, you can see part of the bell tower and the front of the buildings of the College on the north side of the Great Quadrangle. The statue is of Queen Caroline, wife of George II. The buildings on the left side of the picture are part of University College.
cooks and butlers were sometimes called upon to furnish a banquet of “nine hundred messes of meat, with twelve hundred hogsheads of beer and four hundred and sixteen of wine,” as at Balliol, when a Chancellor of twenty-two years of age was installed: the porter was prominent, but as yet much subordinated to the head of the college, to whom he delivered the keys at an early hour: the barber, who was sometimes also the porter, was the welcome dispenser of true and false news, and at Wadham survived until the sixties of last century, when he insisted that the amateur actors should have their wigs dressed by him, under pain of being betrayed to the Warden. Of the old servants—heu prisca fides—we can only guess at the devotion, from the story of old Thomas Allen’s servitor, who was overawed by his master’s mathematical instruments and his reputation of astrologer, and would “impose on freshmen or simple people” by telling them that spirits were often to be met coming up Allen’s staircase “like bees.” John Earle has preserved the ways of an old college butler, from his experience as a fellow of Merton.
Cooks and butlers were sometimes asked to provide a banquet of “nine hundred servings of meat, along with twelve hundred barrels of beer and four hundred and sixteen barrels of wine,” like at Balliol when a Chancellor who was just twenty-two years old was installed. The porter had a significant role, but was still mostly subordinate to the head of the college, to whom he handed over the keys early in the day. The barber, who sometimes also acted as the porter, was the go-to person for both true and false news. At Wadham, he continued in this role until the sixties of the last century, when he demanded that amateur actors have their wigs styled by him or risk being reported to the Warden. Regarding the old servants—heu prisca fides—we can only imagine their loyalty from the tale of old Thomas Allen’s servant, who was intimidated by his master's mathematical tools and reputation as an astrologer, often “pulling a fast one on newcomers or naive individuals” by claiming that spirits frequently appeared coming up Allen’s staircase “like bees.” John Earle has documented the ways of an old college butler from his time as a fellow at Merton.
“An old College Butler is none of the worst students in the house, for he keeps the set hours at his book more duly than any. His authority is great over men’s good names, which he charges many times with shrewd aspersions, which they can hardly wipe off without payment. His Box and Counters prove him to be a man of reckoning; yet he is stricter in his accounts than a usurer, and delivers not a farthing[Pg 348] without writing. He doubles the pain of Gallobelgicus, for his books go out once a quarter, and they are much in the same nature, brief notes and sums of affairs, and are out of request as soon. His comings in are like a Tailor’s from the shreds of bread, the chippings, and remnants of the broken crust: excepting his vails from the barrel, which poor folks buy for their hogs, but drink themselves. He divides a halfpenny loaf with more subtility than Kekerman, and subdivides the a primo ortum so nicely, that a stomach of great capacity can hardly apprehend it. He is a very sober man, considering his manifold temptations of drink and strangers, and if he be overseen, ’tis within his own liberties, and no man ought to take exceptions. He is never so well pleas’d with his place, as when a Gentleman is beholding to him for showing him the Buttery, whom he greets with a cup of single beer and sliced manchet, and tells him ’tis the fashion of the College. He domineers over Freshmen when they first come to the Hatch, and puzzles them with strange language of Cues and Cees, and some broken Latin which he has learnt at his Bin. His faculty extraordinary is the warming of a pair of Cards, and telling out a dozen of Counters for Post and Pair, and no man is more methodical in these businesses. Thus he spends his age, till the tap of it is run out, and then a fresh one is set abroach.[Pg 349]”
“An old college butler is not the worst student in the house because he keeps track of time better than anyone else. He has a lot of power over people’s reputations, often making sly accusations that are hard to shake off without some payment. His tally and counters show he’s someone to be reckoned with; yet, he's stricter about money than a loan shark and won’t hand over a penny[Pg 348] without a record. The pain of Gallobelgicus is intensified by the fact that his books are due only once a quarter, and they’re bland notes and summaries of events that people quickly lose interest in. His income is like a tailor’s, pieced together from leftover crumbs and scraps of stale bread—apart from his tips from the barrel, which the poor buy for their pigs but drink themselves. He shares a halfpenny loaf with more skill than Kekerman, slicing the a primo ortum so finely that even someone with
THE OXFORD DAY
CHAPTER VI
THE OXFORD DAY
In other cities the past is a tradition, and is at most regretted. In Oxford it is an entailed inheritance. Nevertheless, by way of a gaudy foil to this hale immortality, fashions flourish there more luridly, and fade more suddenly, than elsewhere. Afraid, therefore, that I might stumble upon anachronisms unaided, I addressed myself as a seeker after truth to several freshmen who might have been expected to know practically everything. One wished to be excused because he was standing for the secretaryship of the Union, and was “somewhat out of touch with ordinary life.” He had been busily opening debates in half the colleges of Oxford, in order to prove his sound principles and high capabilities, and enclosed this table of labours:—
In other cities, the past is just a tradition and mostly something to be regretted. But in Oxford, it feels like a lasting inheritance. However, to contrast this enduring past, trends there are more vibrant and fade away more quickly than in other places. Worried that I might miss some outdated references on my own, I turned to a few freshmen who I thought would know just about everything. One of them declined to help because he was running for the secretaryship of the Union and was “somewhat out of touch with ordinary life.” He had been busy opening debates in half the colleges at Oxford to show off his solid principles and impressive capabilities, and attached this list of his efforts:—
11th inst., at ——: “That in the opinion of this house His Majesty’s government has done its best.”
11th inst., at ——: “In this house's view, His Majesty’s government has done its best.”
12th, at ——: “That the struggles of the poor towards a larger and freer life are not to be discouraged.”
12th, at ——: “That the efforts of the poor for a better and more liberated life should not be discouraged.”
13th, at——: “That vegetarianism is opposed alike to our traditions and our present needs.” Also later (to oppose): “That a wave of imperialism causes a reformation in the standards of literature.”
13th, at——: “Vegetarianism goes against both our traditions and our current needs.” Also later (to oppose): “A surge in imperialism leads to a change in the standards of literature.”
(14th, twenty-first birthday.)
(14th, 21st birthday.)
18th, at ——: “That poets are the interpreters of their age.”
18th, at ——: “Poets are the voice of their time.”
19th, at ——: “That in encouraging sports this University approaches more nearly to the Greek ideal than at any other period of its existence has been the case.”
19th, at ——: “This University is getting closer to the Greek ideal in promoting sports than it ever has before.”
20th, at ——: “A paper on ‘Mentality in Life and Art.’”
20th, at ——: “A paper on ‘Mindset in Life and Art.’”
21st, at ——: “That Oxford has not sufficiently realised and reformed its national position since imperialism became an acknowledged fact.”
21st, at ——: “Oxford hasn't adequately understood and adjusted its national role since imperialism became a recognized reality.”
Another gentleman of more tender years and less exuberance forwarded the menu of his college junior gaudy, in itself a pleasant reminder of the more solid occupations of undergraduates. He had made a table of a day’s life, alongside the dishes, like this:—
Another young man, who was a bit more reserved, sent over the menu for his college junior gaudy, which served as a nice reminder of the more meaningful activities of college students. He created a schedule for a day in his life, next to the dishes, like this:—
Soup | ||
Macedoine. | The Senior Proctor. | |
Fish | ||
Turbot and Lobster Sauce. | My tailor: and to buy a meerschaum. | |
Entrées | ||
Tomates Farcées. | My Coach. | |
Joint | ||
Saddle of Mutton. | If possible, my philosophy tutor. | |
Game | ||
Pheasants. | Aristotle. | |
Sweets | ||
Pudding à la Belleline. | Eights. | |
Glace | ||
Neapolitain. | The Master. | |
Savoury | ||
Oysters à la Bonne Bouche. | Jones’s hair. |
He had “no time for more.”
He had "no time for anything else."
Of the third answer I can just see this fragment, in a fine confident penmanship, among the flames: “Oxford life falls under three heads, which I shall discuss separately. They are Religion, Education, and Social Life. And first of Education. My tutor breakfasts at eight. He has forty-eight pupils, and four ladies from Somerville College. He has one lecture and to-morrow’s to prepare. In the afternoon he will be fresh and cheerful at the college barge, watching the races. He is writing two books, and is on the Board of Guardians. In spite of this the great thing about Oxford education is the way it stamps a man—‘the cast of Vere de Vere,’ as the poet says; no matter in what position in life his lot is thrown, a certain easy grace——”
Of the third answer, I can just make out this fragment, in elegant and confident handwriting, among the flames: “Oxford life can be categorized into three areas, which I'll discuss one by one. They are Religion, Education, and Social Life. First, about Education. My tutor has breakfast at eight. He teaches forty-eight students and has four ladies from Somerville College with him. He has one lecture to give and needs to prepare for tomorrow’s. In the afternoon, he’ll feel fresh and cheerful at the college barge, enjoying the races. He’s writing two books and is on the Board of Guardians. Despite all this, the remarkable thing about an Oxford education is how it shapes a person—‘the cast of Vere de Vere,’ as the poet puts it; regardless of where he ends up in life, there’s a certain effortless grace——”
I find a more rational description of an Oxford day as it was in 1867, and as it was up to the publication of Mr. Rhodes’s will, in the Oxford Spectator, one of the most enduring of undergraduate periodicals.
I think a more reasonable depiction of an Oxford day as it was in 1867, and as it remained until the release of Mr. Rhodes’s will, can be found in the Oxford Spectator, one of the longest-lasting undergraduate magazines.
“The whole History of Philosophy,” says the writer, E. N[olan], “is simply the story of an ordinary Oxford day.... In the morning, when I awake, the eastern dawn, as it shines into my room, gives my philosophy[Pg 354] an Oriental tinge. I turn Buddhist, and lie thinking of nothing. Then I rise, and at once my tenets are those of the Ionics. I think, with Thales, that Water is the great first principle. Under this impression I take my bath. Then, yielding to Animaxander, I begin to believe in the unlimited, and straightway, in a rude toilette, consume an infinite amount of breakfast. This leads to the throwing open of my window, at which I sit, an unconscious disciple of Anaximenes, and a believer in the universal agency of Air. I lock my door and sit down to read mathematics, seeming a very Pythagorean in my loneliness and reverence for numbers. I am disturbed by a knock. I open the door and admit my parlour-maid, who wishes to remove the breakfast things. She is evidently an Eleatic, for she makes an abstraction of everything material, and reduces my table to a state of pure being. Again I am alone, and as I complete my toilet before my mirror, I hold, as Heraclitus did, the principle of the becoming, and think that it, and it only, should be the rule of existence. I saunter to the window, and ponder upon the advantages or otherwise of taking a walk. I am kept at home by some theory of the Elements, such as possessed Empedocles. Now I bethink me of my lunch, and I become an Atomist in my hunger, as I compare the two states of Fulness and Void. At last Atomistic Necessity prevails, and I ring my bell. Lunch over, I walk out, and am much amused, as usual, with the men I meet. I notice that those who have intellect superior to their fellows neglect their personal appearance.[Pg 355] These, I think, are followers of Anaxagoras: they believe in νοῦς, and they deny the Becoming. Others I noticed to be bent upon some violent exercise. I feel myself small and weak beside them, wondering much whether I, who to them am but half a man, am man enough to be considered, sophistically, the measure of all things. I console myself with remarking to myself that I surely know my work for the Schools better than they. Behold! I am Socratic. Virtue, I say, consists in knowing. So I chatter away to myself, feeling quite Platonic in my dialogue, until I meet a luckless friend who is to be examined next day in Moderations. I walk out with him far into the country, talking to him about his work, and struggling against my deeply-rooted antipathy to exertion of any kind. Surely Aristotle could not have been more peripatetic, or Chrysippus more Stoical. The dinner-hour makes me Epicurean, and I pass unconsciously over many stages of philosophy. I spend an hour in the rooms of a friend who is reading hard for honours. I come away but little impressed with the philosophy of the Schoolmen. The evening passes like a dream. I have vague thoughts of recurring to my former good habits of home correspondence; but this revival of letters passes by, leaving me asleep in my chair. Here, again, as at dinner, I doubtless pass through many unconscious stages. At length I begin to muse upon bed. It is a habit of mine to yield to the vulgar fascinations of strong liquors before retiring for the night. Philosophy, I learn, works in a circle, ever[Pg 356] returning unto itself. It is for this reason, perhaps, that my last waking act is inspired both by Hegel and Thales. Hegel prompts me to crave for Spirit: Thales influences me to temper it with Water.”
“The entire history of philosophy,” says the writer, E. N[olan], “is really just a typical day at Oxford.... In the morning, when I wake up, the eastern dawn that shines into my room gives my philosophy[Pg 354] an Eastern vibe. I become a bit like a Buddhist and lie there, thinking about nothing. Then I get up, and immediately my beliefs shift to those of the Ionics. I agree with Thales that Water is the fundamental principle. Under that influence, I take my bath. Then, yielding to Anaximander, I start to believe in the unlimited and, in a shabby outfit, I consume a ridiculous amount of breakfast. This leads to me opening my window, where I sit, completely unaware of being a disciple of Anaximenes, a believer in the universal influence of Air. I lock my door and sit down to study mathematics, seeming quite Pythagorean in my solitude and respect for numbers. I'm interrupted by a knock. I open the door and let in my maid, who wants to clear away the breakfast dishes. She's clearly an Eleatic, as she ignores everything material and reduces my table to a state of pure existence. Once again, I'm alone, and while I finish getting ready in front of the mirror, I adopt the principle of becoming like Heraclitus did, and I think that this, and only this, should govern existence. I stroll over to the window, contemplating whether I should take a walk or not. I'm held back by some theory of the Elements, like Empedocles had. Suddenly, I think about lunch, and I become an Atomist in my hunger, weighing the states of Fullness and Emptiness. Eventually, Atomistic Necessity wins, and I ring for service. After lunch, I head out and find myself, as usual, amused by the people I encounter. I notice that those with greater intellect than their peers often neglect their appearance.[Pg 355] I think these might be followers of Anaxagoras; they believe in νοῦς and deny the idea of Becoming. Others seem focused on some intense physical activity. I feel small and weak next to them, constantly wondering if I, who to them seem only half a man, am really enough to be considered, in a sophistical sense, the measure of all things. I try to reassure myself that I certainly know my academic work better than they do. Look at me! I'm feeling Socratic. I tell myself that virtue lies in knowledge. So I chat away to myself, feeling quite Platonic in my dialogue, until I bump into an unfortunate friend who's going to be examined the next day in Moderations. I walk with him far into the countryside, discussing his studies while struggling against my deep-seated dislike of any effort. Surely Aristotle could not have been more peripatetic, nor Chrysippus more Stoical. Dinner time makes me feel Epicurean, and I slip unconsciously through many phases of philosophy. I spend an hour in a friend’s room, who’s intensely studying for honors. I'm left somewhat unimpressed by the philosophy of the Schoolmen. The evening drifts by like a dream. I have vague thoughts of returning to my former good habit of writing letters home, but this desire fades away, leaving me dozing in my chair. Here, again, as after dinner, I likely go through numerous unconscious stages. Eventually, I begin to think about going to bed. I have a habit of indulging in the tempting allure of strong drinks before going to sleep. I've learned that philosophy works in a loop, always[Pg 356] coming back to itself. Perhaps that's why my last conscious act is inspired by both Hegel and Thales. Hegel drives me to seek Spirit: Thales nudges me to balance it with Water.”
Yet, if the Oxford day, as is fitting, can always be expressed in terms of philosophy, it is sometimes more complex, often more simple than that; and it is longer. It begins and ends at 7 A.M. At that hour, the student and the fanatical novel-reader, forgetful of time, the passive Bacchanalian, and the man who prefers the divine, long-seated Oxford chair to bed, are usually persuaded to retire; for unacademic voices of servant and starling begin to be heard in the quadrangle. The blackbird is awake in the shrubbery. Very soon the scout will appear, and will not know whether to say “Good-night” or “Good-morning,” and with the vacant face of one who has slept through all the blessed hours of night, will drive men to bed. There is a dreamy laying aside of books—volumes of Daudet and Dickens, Fielding and Abbé Prévost, Morley, Roberts and Poe,—old plays and romances,—Stubbs, and the Chronicles, Stuart pamphlets,—Thucydides, Aristotle, and later Latin than Quintilian. If there is to be a Divinity examination later in the morning, there are Bibles scattered up and down, epitomes, and a sound of men’s voices asking the difference between one and another version of a parable, and “Who was Gallio?” and preparing all the playful acrobatics that will pass for knowledge in the Schools. While these are trying to sleep, with the gold sunlight winning through their[Pg 358][Pg 357]
Yet, if the Oxford day, as it should be, can always be described in terms of philosophy, it can also be more complex and often simpler than that; and it lasts longer. It starts and ends at 7 A.M. At that hour, the student and the passionate novel-reader, who have lost track of time, the laid-back partygoer, and the person who prefers the divine, well-worn Oxford chair to bed, are usually convinced to call it a night; because the non-academic sounds of servants and starlings start to rise in the quadrangle. The blackbird is awake in the bushes. Soon, the scout will show up, not knowing whether to say “Good-night” or “Good-morning,” and with the blank expression of someone who has slept through all the blessed hours of night, will send people off to bed. There's a dreamy setting aside of books—volumes of Daudet and Dickens, Fielding and Abbé Prévost, Morley, Roberts, and Poe—old plays and romances—Stubbs, and the Chronicles, Stuart pamphlets—Thucydides, Aristotle, and later Latin beyond Quintilian. If there's a Divinity exam later in the morning, Bibles will be scattered around, summaries, and the sound of men's voices discussing the differences between various versions of a parable, and asking, “Who was Gallio?” while preparing all the clever tricks that will pass for knowledge in the Schools. While these are trying to sleep, with the golden sunlight breaking through their[Pg 358][Pg 357]

EXETER COLLEGE CHAPEL, FROM SHIP STREET
EXETER COLLEGE CHAPEL, FROM SHIP STREET
The Chapel of the College, rebuilt by Sir George Gilbert Scott in 1857, rises in the centre of the picture, and with its spire forms a conspicuous feature in Ship Street.
The Chapel of the College, rebuilt by Sir George Gilbert Scott in 1857, stands prominently in the center of the picture, and its spire is a noticeable feature on Ship Street.
Below is that part of the College fronting “The Turl.”
Below is that part of the College facing “The Turl.”
On the right are some of the buildings of Jesus College.
On the right are some buildings from Jesus College.
The sun of a late summer afternoon strikes the western gable of the Chapel.
The sun of a late summer afternoon hits the west side of the Chapel.
eyelids, one or two picked men are rising of their own free will, and some because they have to run in the Parks before a training breakfast; others are arguing with themselves or with their scouts that it cannot possibly be nearly half-past seven; or later on, that a passing bell or a bell-wether has been mistaken for the college chapel bell; others expelling the awakening scout with more frankness: some doze and doze, with alternate pricks of conscience and necessity, and desperately deciding to rise, have to saunter about, too late for chapel, too early for breakfast; the majority murmuring that all is well, and enjoying the pleasantest of thefts from daylight; for, to the man who need not, or will not, rise, the chapel bell is a blithe and kindly spirit, that sets a crown upon the bliss of oncoming sleep and gives a keener edge to his complacency, as he thinks of the cold, sleepy virtue that walks in the world below. The chaplain, a man of habit, is also getting up. No one has ever seen a fellow late for chapel.
Eyelids fluttering, one or two chosen guys are getting up of their own accord, and some are gearing up for a run in the parks before a training breakfast; others are debating with themselves or their friends that it can't possibly be close to half-past seven; or later, that a passing bell or a bellwether has been confused with the college chapel bell; some are kicking out the awakening friend with more honesty: some doze on and on, caught between a guilty conscience and necessity, and after deciding to get up, they have to wander around, too late for chapel, too early for breakfast; the majority mumbling that everything is fine and happily stealing a bit more time from daylight; for the person who doesn't have to, or chooses not to, get up, the chapel bell is a cheerful and kind presence, adding a touch of joy to the bliss of drifting back to sleep and sharpening his sense of contentment as he thinks of the cold, sleepy righteousness that exists in the world below. The chaplain, a man of routine, is also waking up. No one has ever seen someone late for chapel.
When the service is over, those who have attended are either awake or asleep again. The service itself is of an awakening kind, and has a vigour that is unknown outside Oxford.
When the service is over, those who attended are either awake or asleep again. The service itself is uplifting and has an energy that's hard to find anywhere else but Oxford.
Time works hard after you for nothing!
When you guided the Eight to victory,
Did you prove this so clearly,
At daily morning chapel And at evening service again? [Pg 362]
So run the verses which express the kind of vigour in vogue.
So flow the lines that capture the kind of energy that's popular right now.
Now the perfervid reading man, and the man whose genealogical tree is conspicuous for a constant succession of maiden aunts, go to their cocoa and eggs: and, within three hours afterwards, the average man, to porridge, fish, eggs and bacon, coffee and oranges; the decadent, to cigars, liqueurs and wafers; the æsthete, to his seven wonders and a daffodil; and some, of all classes, to the consolations of philosophy and soda-water. Only the last-named habitually break their fast in solitude. For it is in Oxford the most social meal of the day. It may begin at any time from eight until half-past eleven—anything later being “brunch”—and last until half-past one. Some even believe that an invitation to breakfast embraces the afternoon. Lectures seldom interfere with the meal, since the man who leaves for their sake is not usually missed. A very early breakfast is pregnant with yawns, and may also be forgotten; a very late one is unhappily curtailed. Ten o’clock is an ideal to be striven after. The host has to be studious not to invite two men who are “blues,” or who are entered for the same examinations, or who are freshmen from the same school, which would be apt to produce treatises instead of conversation. It is dangerous also to have two epigrammatists. For that leads to a game of shuttlecock and battledore between the two, and of patience among the rest.... He knows that four men incapable of these things are coming, and as he peeps from his bedroom to see that all is ready,[Pg 363] he hears their steps and laughter echoing up the stairs. He is rapidly surveying them all in his mind, wondering how such excellent ingredients will mix, when they enter, having picked one another up by good fortune on the way, and already got rid of a possible tendency to talk about politics, weather, or dreams. They discuss everything. One who is bound to be a fellow starts on “the æsthetic value of dons.” One who has never left England offers a suggestive remark on Swiss scenery or the effect of palms against a sunrise in the Pacific. The transitions are indescribably rapid; yet the link of merely an epigram or a laugh, or possibly the very sense of contrast and incongruity, makes the whole run on as some fine hedge of maple, hawthorn, holly, elm, beech, and wild cherry runs on, and is fine and nothing else, except to a botanist. The talk is a play in five acts: each man is in turn a chorus. But whether the subject be freshmen, or Disraeli, or Sancho Panza, or the English aristocracy, it is treated as it never was before. Perhaps that is the result of the detached attitude of a number of very young men. Perhaps it is because each in turn, of the five average men, is touched with genius temporarily by accretion from the other four. One says a dull thing, another a silly thing, a third a rash thing, a fourth a vague thing, and straightway the fifth catches fire and blazes with something of the true light from heaven, and he not less than the rest is astonished. The spirit of the conversation is as different from the prandial spirit as shortbread from wedding cake. It has neither the richness of that nor the frivolity of tea.[Pg 364] The breakfast talker seems to depend very little on memory. He remembers fewer stories, less of the book he read on the night before, than at a later meal. He is thrown more entirely upon the resources of his own fantasy. The experience of sleep still lies like a great water between him and yesterday. In the cold, young, golden light, among the grey stones of the quadrangle, the brain, too, rejoices in its own life, and forgets to look before and after. Habit is weaker. He catches another glimpse of the “clouds of glory,” if only in a mirage. He is renovated by the new day; and although by dinner-time he will have advanced to warmer sympathies and a more tranquil satisfaction, there will then be something more cynical in his indolent optimism than in the sharp but easily warded points of morning wit.... Of course, a breakfast party of men in training for the Torpids is another thing. That is a question of arithmetic. So, too, with a breakfast given formally to freshmen, which is mainly a question of time and stories about dons. Breakfasts with fellows are either of the best kind, or they are ceremonies. There are some colleges, where the fellows not only feel that there is no need of condescension, but they do not condescend: the elder is not expected to be preternaturally simple, nor the younger to be abstruse. In other colleges, such breakfasts of the great and small are sometimes farces and sometimes ceremonies. The don knows that the other’s knowledge of the Republic is small; the undergraduate is equally aware of the fact: the one assumes that he has an index to the othe[Pg 365]r’s mind; the other that one so scathing in his opinion of essays will be the same in his treatment of little quips about the Colonial Secretary or accounts of pheasant-shooting in the Christmas vacation: one is determined to pounce; the other not to be pounced upon. The scout who changes the dishes indicates whether it is a ceremony or a farce. If he smiles, it is the one; if he does not, it is the other. Not everybody, indeed, in these colleges has the same misfortune, though any one may, as the young man who carefully prepared a paraphrase of one of the obscurest articles in the Encyclopædia Britannica and two brand new epigrams artfully inwoven, and served them up as he sat down at the breakfast table of the bursar, who smiled and commented moodily: “What a boon the Encyclopædia is to the tired man!” But breakfast with even the best of dons has this disadvantage, that he can bring it to an end with a word; so that his guest may afterwards be seen disconsolately reading a newspaper, and feeling that to have eaten food is hardly more to have breakfasted than to have dined.
Now the passionate reader and the guy whose family tree is full of aunties head over for their cocoa and eggs. A little later, the average guy enjoys porridge, fish, eggs and bacon, coffee, and oranges; the decadent one opts for cigars, liqueurs, and wafers; the aesthete considers his seven wonders alongside a daffodil; and some, from all walks of life, seek solace in philosophy and soda water. Only the last group usually breaks their fast alone. In Oxford, breakfast is the most social meal of the day. It can start anytime between eight and half-past eleven—anything later is considered “brunch”—and lasts until half-past one. Some even believe that an invitation to breakfast includes the afternoon. Lectures rarely disrupt the meal since anyone who leaves for them isn't usually missed. A very early breakfast is often filled with yawns and can easily be forgotten; a very late breakfast unfortunately gets cut short. Ten o’clock is an ideal time to aim for. The host must be careful not to invite two people who are “blues,” those taking the same exams, or freshmen from the same school, as this might lead to treatises instead of conversation. It’s also risky to have two wits at the table, as it turns into a game of back-and-forth banter that leaves the rest feeling patient. He knows that four people who won’t fall into these traps are coming, and as he peeks out from his bedroom to check that everything is ready,[Pg 363] he hears their footsteps and laughter coming up the stairs. He quickly thinks through everyone in his mind, curious about how such great personalities will mix, when they arrive, having fortuitously met each other on the way, already steering clear of discussing politics, the weather, or dreams. They talk about anything and everything. One fellow, bound to be a scholar, starts with “the aesthetic value of dons.” Another, who's never left England, makes a thought-provoking comment on Swiss scenery or the beauty of palms against a Pacific sunrise. The shifts in conversation are remarkably quick, yet a simple epigram, a laugh, or the very essence of contrast and incongruity keeps the dialogue flowing like a beautiful hedge of maple, hawthorn, holly, elm, beech, and wild cherry; it’s pretty and nothing more, except to a botanist. The conversation unfolds like a five-act play: each person takes turns as a chorus. But whether the topic is freshmen, Disraeli, Sancho Panza, or the English aristocracy, it’s treated like never before. Maybe it’s due to the detached view of a group of young men. Perhaps it’s because each of the five average guys temporarily catches a spark of genius from the others. One says something dull, another something silly, a third something rash, a fourth something vague, and then the fifth suddenly ignites with inspiration, leaving even him astonished. The mood of the breakfast conversation feels completely different from that of other meals, much like the difference between shortbread and wedding cake. It lacks the richness of the latter and the frivolity of tea.[Pg 364] The breakfast speaker relies very little on memory. He recalls fewer stories and less of the book he read the night before than he would at a later meal. He’s more dependent on his imagination. The experience of sleep acts like a vast expanse of water between him and yesterday. In the bright, young light among the gray stones of the courtyard, his mind celebrates its own vitality and forgets to look back or ahead. Habits lose their power. He catches another glimpse of the “clouds of glory,” even if just as a mirage. He feels refreshed by the new day, and although by dinner he’ll have warmed to different feelings and a more calm satisfaction, there’ll be something more cynical in his relaxed optimism than in the sharp but easily deflected wit of the morning.... Of course, a breakfast gathering for guys training for the Torpids is an entirely different affair. That’s purely a mathematical matter. The same goes for a formal breakfast for freshmen, which revolves around time and stories about academics. Breakfasts with fellows can either be the best type or they can turn into formalities. In some colleges, fellows believe there’s no need for condescension and don’t actually condescend: the older isn’t expected to be overly simple, and the younger isn’t required to be obscure. In other colleges, such breakfasts can sometimes end up being farces or ceremonies. The don knows the undergraduate’s understanding of the Republic is limited; the student is well aware of this too. One assumes he has insight into the other’s mind; the other assumes the one who’s critical of essays will share the same view about light-hearted comments on the Colonial Secretary or stories of pheasant shooting during the Christmas vacation: one is determined to attack; the other is resolved not to be attacked. The scout who changes the dishes signals whether it’s a ceremony or a farce. If he smiles, it’s the former; if he doesn’t, it’s the latter. Not everyone in these colleges shares the same misfortune, though anyone can, much like the young man who carefully crafted a paraphrase of one of the most obscure articles in the Encyclopædia Britannica and wove in two brand-new epigrams, only to present them at the bursar's breakfast table, where he was met with a smile and a morose comment: “What a boon the Encyclopædia is to the tired man!” But even the best breakfast with a don has the downside that he can wrap it up with just a word, leaving his guest to be seen forlornly reading a newspaper, feeling that simply having eaten isn't truly the same as having had breakfast.
Between nine and one o’clock the different species of Oxford kind are either within doors—sleeping, talking, or working—or to be seen in various conditions of unrest; observers and observed in the High, in pairs or singly; and, if freshmen, either stately in scholars’ gowns or apparently anxious to convince others that they have just picked up their commoners’ gowns; sauntering to the book-shops, or to look at a cricket pitch or a dog; or hurrying to lectures with an earnest[Pg 366]ness that strangely disappears when they are seated and the lecture is begun.
Between nine and one o'clock, the different types of Oxford students are either inside—sleeping, chatting, or studying—or outside in various states of restlessness; being watched or watching in the High, either in pairs or alone. Freshmen are either looking formal in their scholar gowns or trying to show off that they just got their commoners' gowns. They might be wandering to the bookstores, checking out a cricket pitch, or watching a dog; or rushing off to lectures with a seriousness that oddly fades away once they're seated and the lecture starts.
In the stream of men there is one thin black line that is unwavering—the line of men, with white fillets of sacrifice under their chins, going to the examination Schools. This is the only place in the world where the plough is still wrought into a weapon of offence. They are under the care of a suitable, ferocious, wild man, who is one of the Old Guard of the opposition to women at Oxford; and in his bleak invitation to ladies, to proceed to their appointed rooms, lays terrible stress upon the word “women,” as if it were a term of abuse in his strange tongue. He is partly responsible for the reply of an undergraduate to an American who asked, what might be the name of the buildings which he so admired and which made him feel at home?
In the crowd of men, there’s one distinct line that stands firm—the line of guys, with white sashes of sacrifice under their chins, heading to the examination Schools. This is the only place in the world where the plow is still turned into a weapon. They are overseen by a rough, fierce man, one of the Old Guard opposing women at Oxford; and in his cold invitation for ladies to go to their designated rooms, he heavily emphasizes the word “women,” as if it were an insult in his unusual vocabulary. He is partly responsible for the response of an undergraduate to an American who asked what the name of the buildings he admired and that made him feel at home might be.
“That,” said the undergraduate, “is the Martyrs’ Memorial.”
"That," said the college student, "is the Martyrs’ Memorial."
“And who are those going in?”
“And who are those going in?”
“They are the Martyrs.”
“They are the heroes.”
“But I thought they were burned three hundred years ago?”
“But I thought they were burned three hundred years ago?”
“Sir,” said the undergraduate impressively, “they are martyred twice daily.”
“Sir,” said the college student with emphasis, “they are martyred twice a day.”
“Well, I guess Oxford is very Middle Age and all that, but I didn’t know it went so far as that”: and the humane visitor went away, talking of agitation in the New York Herald.
“Well, I guess Oxford is pretty medieval and all that, but I didn't realize it went that far”: and the compassionate visitor left, discussing unrest in the New York Herald.
Of all the things to do in Oxford, going to the bookstore

ENTRANCE TO THE DIVINITY SCHOOL
Entrance to the Divinity School
The doorway through which a servant with a silver “poker” is preceding the Vice-Chancellor leads to the old Divinity School.
The doorway where a servant with a silver “poker” is leading the Vice-Chancellor opens into the old Divinity School.
The window at the end of the lobby—usually called the “Pig Market”—looks into Exeter College garden.
The window at the end of the lobby—often referred to as the “Pig Market”—overlooks the Exeter College garden.
after breakfast is one of the most wise. There the undergraduate meets the don whose lecture he has slighted; in fact, he meets every one there, or escapes them, if he thinks fit, behind one of the tall piles. Some prefer leap-frog and hopping contests in the quadrangle. In some colleges they are said to read Plato under the trees in the morning: in others, it is to be presumed, in spite of the negligent capers of the wearers, that the hours are spent in choosing the necktie or waistcoat best suited to “flame in the forehead of the morning sky.” Another amusement is to go to the Divinity School and see the Vice-Chancellor, seated between the two neat and restless proctors, conferring degrees. Near, and on either side of the daïs, the ladies are enjoying the scene, with no traces of any selfish “I would an’ if I could.” Below them sit dons who are to present members of their colleges,—a pale, superb, militant priest conspicuous among the rows of English gentlemen. Farther removed from authority is the Opposition, half a hundred undergraduates, who merrily applaud the perambulations of the mace-bearer or the deportment of their friends. Pale blue, and scarlet, and peach-coloured hoods make a brave contrast with the dead grey light and colourless stone of traceried ceiling and pillared walls, and the dim foliage of trees and ivy outside.
After breakfast is one of the wisest times of the day. That’s when the undergrad runs into the professor whose lecture he skipped; in fact, he meets everyone there, or avoids them if he wants, hiding behind one of the tall piles of books. Some people prefer playing leapfrog and hopping contests in the courtyard. In some colleges, they’re said to read Plato under the trees in the morning; in others, it’s assumed that, despite the careless antics of the wearers, the hours are spent picking out the tie or waistcoat that best matches “the fiery glow of the morning sky.” Another activity is going to the Divinity School to watch the Vice-Chancellor sitting between the two neat and restless proctors as they hand out degrees. Nearby, the ladies are enjoying the scene, showing no signs of any selfish thoughts like “I would if I could.” Below them sit the professors who will present the members of their colleges—a pale, impressive, militant priest stands out among the rows of English gentlemen. Further away from authority is the Opposition, a group of about fifty undergraduates, who cheerfully applaud the movements of the mace-bearer or the actions of their friends. Pale blue, scarlet, and peach-colored hoods create a striking contrast with the dull gray light and colorless stone of the detailed ceiling and pillared walls, as well as the dim foliage of trees and ivy outside.
Lectures are a less stately pleasure. Some lecturers walk up and down the room as in a cage, and pause only for a more genial remark than usual, with uplifted gown and back to the blazing fire. Others laugh at their[Pg 372] own jokes, or even at jokes which they leave unexpressed. Some are stern and impassioned: some appear to be proposing a health; others, again, a vote of condolence. One came in clothed for travel, twenty minutes late, and after a few remarks, said that brevity was the most pardonable of the virtues, and that he had to catch a train; and left. In the old days, Merton was famous for Schoolmen, Christ Church for poets, All Souls’ for orators, Brasenose for disputants, and so on, says Fuller. That is not quite so now. Yet, as then, “all are eminent in some one kind or other,” although the undergraduate does not always perceive it. Some are noted for research, some for views, some for condensation. An impartial observer once remarked that, “even when he is abridging an abridgment, an Oxford lecturer always had views.” A scratching, coughing, whispering silence is respectfully observed. Once upon a time, a lady (not English) entered a famous hall, guide-book in hand, spectacles on nose; went from place to place, contemplated all, and incurred only the amazement of the lecturer and the admiration of the audience. It is to be noticed that the audience of what M. Bardoux good-naturedly calls Monks, is in most cases far more interested in note-books than in the lecturer. Some will spend three consecutive hours in lecture rooms, and therein compile very curious anthologies. Even that does not conduce to enthusiasm; and nobody in recent years has been electrified in an Oxford lecture room. “I have discovered,” writes an outsider, “with much difficulty that there are two[Pg 373] classes in Oxford, the learned and the unlearned: my difficulty arose from the fact that the latter were without coarseness and the former without enthusiasm.” And certainly in a city that loves to light bonfires, and is never more herself than when she is welcoming a guest, enthusiasm is astonishingly well concealed. It may be detected occasionally among gentlemen who are conducting East-Enders from quadrangle to quadrangle, or among those who like the ground-ivy beer at Lincoln College on Ascension Day, or among those who salute financiers and others in the act of becoming Doctors of Civil Law at the Encænia. It was said that some one unsuccessfully spread his gown as a carpet for the late Mr. Rhodes’s feet: it is certain that some played upon him with little jets of truth very heartily, and asked Socratic questions, on that august occasion.
Lectures are a less formal experience. Some lecturers pace up and down the room like they’re in a cage and only stop for a lighter comment, all while facing the blazing fire with their gowns lifted. Others laugh at their own jokes or even at unspoken ones. Some are serious and passionate; others seem like they’re making a toast or a condolence speech. One lecturer came in dressed for travel, twenty minutes late, and after a few comments, claimed that brevity is a highly forgivable trait because he had to catch a train and then left. Back in the day, Merton was known for its Scholars, Christ Church for its poets, All Souls’ for its orators, Brasenose for its debaters, and so on, as Fuller says. That’s not quite the case anymore. Still, just like before, “everyone is distinguished in some way,” even if undergraduates don’t always notice it. Some are recognized for their research, others for their perspectives, and some for being concise. An impartial observer once noted that, “even when summarizing a summary, an Oxford lecturer always has opinions.” A scratching, coughing, whispering silence is respectfully maintained. Once, a lady (not English) entered a renowned hall, guidebook in hand and glasses on her nose; she moved from place to place, took it all in, and only left the lecturer in awe while winning the audience's admiration. It's worth noting that the audience of what M. Bardoux kindly refers to as Monks often cares more about their notebooks than the lecturer. Some will spend three hours straight in lecture halls, compiling very interesting anthologies. Even that doesn’t spark much excitement; and no one has been truly electrified in an Oxford lecture room in recent years. “I’ve discovered,” a visitor writes, “with great difficulty that there are two classes in Oxford, the learned and the unlearned: my difficulty came from the fact that the unlearned have no rudeness and the learned lack enthusiasm.” And definitely, in a city that loves to start bonfires and feels most alive when welcoming guests, enthusiasm is surprisingly well hidden. It can occasionally be spotted among gentlemen leading East-Enders from courtyard to courtyard, or those enjoying ground-ivy beer at Lincoln College on Ascension Day, or among those congratulating finance professionals and others becoming Doctors of Civil Law at the Encænia. It was said that someone unsuccessfully tried to spread his gown as a carpet for the late Mr. Rhodes’s feet; it is certain that some engaged him earnestly with little bursts of truth and asked Socratic questions during that grand event.
At luncheon there is, however, some enthusiasm; not for the meal, which is commonly a stupid one, but for the long afternoon, to be spent in the parks, or on the river, or in the country, east to Wheatley, west to Fyfield. These matters, or the prospect of a long bookish afternoon indoors or (in the summer) under a willow on the Cherwell or Evenlode, encroach too absolutely upon luncheon to allow it to be anything more than an affair of knives and forks. As for the country, a man used frequently to walk so as to know all the fields for twenty miles on every side. But the walker is vanishing. Games take away their thousands; bicycles their hundreds; the motor car destroys twos and threes. On Sundays walking is almost fashionable;[Pg 374] on week-days it is in danger of becoming notorious as the hall-mark of a “reading man.” An uninteresting youth was once asked, as a freshman, what exercise he favoured, and replied, “I belong to the reading set and go walks.” The remark was generally considered to lower him to the rank of the Intellectuels, or as the “Guide Conversationelle” translates the word, the Prigs. That guide, which appeared in the J.C.R. in June 1899, is so characteristic in its humour that I cannot apologise for quoting from it:—
At lunch, there's some excitement, but not about the food, which is usually pretty boring. It's more about the long afternoon ahead, whether it's spent in the parks, on the river, or out in the countryside, heading east to Wheatley or west to Fyfield. These plans, or the thought of a long afternoon of reading either indoors or (in the summer) relaxing under a willow by the Cherwell or Evenlode, completely overshadow lunch, making it just a casual meal. In the past, a man would often walk and know every field within a twenty-mile radius. But walking is becoming less common. Games take away thousands; bicycles take hundreds; and the car reduces the numbers even further. On Sundays, walking is almost trendy; [Pg 374] on weekdays, it risks being seen as the mark of a “bookish person.” An unremarkable young man was once asked, as a freshman, what exercise he preferred, and he replied, “I’m part of the reading crowd and go for walks.” His answer was generally viewed as lowering him to the level of the Intellectuels, or as the “Guide Conversationelle” puts it, the Prigs. That guide, published in the J.C.R. in June 1899, has such a unique sense of humor that I can't resist quoting from it:—
Guide Conversationelle de l’Étranger à Oxford
Conversational Guide for Visitors in Oxford
L’Américain. | The Anglo-Saxon. |
L’Espion. | The proctor. |
Le Chauvinisme. | Imperialism. |
Le Morgue. | Self-respect. |
Le Noble. | The good fellow. |
Le Bourgeois pauvre. | The tosher [an unattached student]. |
Le Mauvais Repas. | Hall [dinner]. |
Le Repas. | The Grid [iron; an Oxford social club]. |
Le Culte. | The Salvation Army. |
Le Fou. | The earnest man. |
Le Lion. | The don. |
L’Intellectuel. | The Prig. |
Merci. | —— |
Vous me devez cinq francs. | Oh! it doesn’t matter. |
Je suis Athée. | I am broad. |
Il est dans le mouvement. | He is a gentleman. |
Il a manqué son coup. | I hate that man. |
Suivre les cours. | Reading for a second. |
Républicain de Vieille Roche. | Little Englander. |
Opportuniste. | Conservative (or) Liberal. |
Socialiste. | Radical. |
Collectiviste. | Socialist. |
Le vertu. | Our English way. |
Etre vicieux.[Pg 375] | To be out of it. |
Il arrivera. | His father got that place. |
J’ai peur. | Where’s the good of ragging? |
C’est faux. | In some respects you are right. |
Tu en as menti. | Surely you must be mistaken. |
Abruti. | My dear Sir! |
The river (or l’après midi) is the new college of the nineteenth century. As an educational institution it is unquestioned. The college barges represent perhaps the most successful Oxford architecture of the age. Certainly it was a thought of no mean order which set that tapering line of gaudy galleys to heave and shimmer along the river-side, against a background of trees and grass, and themselves a background for the white figures of the oarsmen. It is a fine lesson in eloquence to listen to the coaches shouting reprimand and advice, in sentences one or two words long, to a panting crew. One can see the secret of English success in the meek reception which a number of hard-working, conscientious, abraded men give to the abuse of an idler on the bank. On the afternoon of the races all is changed. The man who yesterday shouted “Potato sacks!” or “Pleasure boat!” now screams “Well rowed all!” Before and behind him flows all of the University that can run a mile. The faces of all are expressive in every inch; all restraint of habit or decorum is gone for the time being. The racing boats make hardly a sound; and for the most part the rowers hear not a sound from the bank, but only the click of their own rowlocks. Here and there a rattle is twirled; a bell rings; a pistol is fired; and a pair or several pairs of boats creep into the side, winners and losers, and languidly[Pg 376] watch the still competing boats as they pass. The noise of rattles, bells, pistols, whistles, bagpipes, frying-pans, and shouts can be heard in all the colleges and in the fields at Marston and Hinksey, where it has a kind of melody. Close at hand, it has a charm for the experienced tympanum: for in the cries of the victorious colleges the joy of victory is too great to allow of any discordant crow of mere triumph; the cries of those about to be beaten are too determined to have in them anything of hate. Such is the devout enthusiasm of the runners on the bank that if their own college boat is bumped they will sometimes run on to cheer the next boat that passes. The mysteries of harmony are never so wonderful as when, opposite the barge of a college that has made its bump, the sound of a hundred voices and a hundred instruments goes up, from dons, clergymen, old members of the college, future bishops, governors, brewers, schoolmasters, literary men, all looking very much the same, and in their pride of college forgetting all other pride. “If the next great prophet comes in knickerbockers, with good legs and a megaphone, he will be received in Oxford,” says one as he leaves the river. “Was a prophet possible? Would he be a warrior, or an orator, or a quiet actor and persuader? Out of the wilderness, or out of the slum?” Such were the questions asked. “In any case he would not be listened to in Oxford,” thought one. “Why not? provided his accent was good,” thought another. “Comfort yourself,” said a third; “some one would ask at hall table what school he came[Pg 378][Pg 377]
The river (or l’après midi) is the new college of the nineteenth century. As an educational institution, it's undeniably important. The college barges represent perhaps the most successful Oxford architecture of the time. It's certainly a remarkable idea that created that line of colorful boats to glide and shimmer along the riverside, against a backdrop of trees and grass, while providing a background for the white figures of the rowers. It’s quite something to hear the coaches shouting reprimands and advice in one or two-word sentences to a panting crew. You can see the secret of English success in how a group of hard-working, dedicated, wearied men accept the insults from a lazy person on the bank. On the afternoon of the races, everything changes. The person who yesterday shouted “Potato sacks!” or “Pleasure boat!” now yells “Well rowed all!” Behind and in front of him flows all of the University that can run a mile. Every face shows emotion; all restraint of habit or decorum is gone for the moment. The racing boats hardly make a sound; for the most part, the rowers don’t hear anything from the bank, only the click of their own rowlocks. Occasionally a rattle is twirled; a bell rings; a pistol is fired; and a few boats come into view, winners and losers, lazily[Pg 376] watching the still competing boats as they pass. The noise of rattles, bells, pistols, whistles, bagpipes, frying pans, and cheers can be heard across all the colleges and in the fields at Marston and Hinksey, where it has a sort of melody. Up close, it’s charming for the experienced ear: in the shouts of the victorious colleges, the joy of winning is too strong to allow for any sour note; the cries of those about to lose are too determined to hold any malice. The runners on the bank are so devoted that if their own college boat is bumped, they sometimes cheer for the next boat that comes by. The mysteries of harmony are never as wonderful as when, in front of the barge of a college that has just made its bump, the sound of a hundred voices and instruments rises up, from dons, clergy, alumni, future bishops, governors, brewers, teachers, and writers, all looking quite similar and, in their pride for the college, forgetting all other pride. “If the next great prophet shows up in knickerbockers, with good legs and a megaphone, he will be welcomed in Oxford,” says one as he leaves the river. “Is a prophet even possible? Would he be a warrior, or an orator, or a calm actor and persuader? From the wilderness, or from the slum?” Such were the questions asked. “In any case, he wouldn’t be heard in Oxford,” thought one. “Why not? As long as his accent is good,” thought another. “Don't worry,” said a third; “someone would ask at the hall table what school he came from.”[Pg 378][Pg 377]

THE RIVER ISIS
THE RIVER ISIS
On the right is the gold-and-white barge of Magdalen College undergoing repair. The masts and barges of other Colleges line the side of the river, and Folly Bridge closes the prospect.
On the right is the gold-and-white barge of Magdalen College being repaired. The masts and barges of other Colleges are lined up along the river, and Folly Bridge blocks the view.
from; the question would go round; and the prophet would retreat from the refrigerator.” “But suppose him a sort of Kipling, twenty or thirty feet broader every way——”
from; the question would go around; and the prophet would step back from the refrigerator.” “But imagine him as a kind of Kipling, twenty or thirty feet wider in every direction——”
“Send up some buttered crumpets and slow poison” was the epitaph of the conversation, which was, after all, between children of a cynical age and in the hour of tea. But there is many a true thing said at tea in Oxford. The hours from four to seven are nothing if not critical. It is an irresponsible, frivolous time, and an interregnum between the tyranny of exercise and the tyranny of food. Nothing is now commended; yet nothing is envied. I suspect that some of the causes of the University love of parody might be found by an investigator in the Oxford tea. Over his crumpet or “slow poison” the undergraduate who is no wiser than he should be legislates for the world, settles even higher matters, and smilingly accepts a viceroyalty from Providence. With some it is a festival of Slang—venerable goddess! I have heard a philologist trace a little Oxford phrase to the thieves of Manchester a century ago or more. Now he plans profound or witty speeches for the Union, devises “rags” and rebellions, and writes for the undergraduate magazines, and has his revenge in a few well-chosen words upon coaches, dons, captains of football, and all forms of Pomposity, Dulness, and Good Sense. “Common-sense,” says one, “is nonsense à la mode.” He luxuriates in the criticism of life, and blossoms with epigrams. He says in his heart, “In much wisdom is much grief: and he that[Pg 382] increaseth knowledge increaseth sorrow,” and sets himself to make sayings which, if not truer than proverbs, are funnier. Others prowl: i.e. they go through that promiscuous calling upon acquaintances which is the bane of half its beneficiaries. Some of these prowlers seem to live by this kind of canvassing—thieves of others’ time and generous givers of their own. They will boast of having taken twenty teas in one afternoon. But on Sunday comes their judgment. They wear a soberer aspect on their way to the drawing-rooms of Oxford hostesses. In the comfortable chairs sit the incurable habitués—cold, saturnine spectators, or impudent, stiff-hearted epigrammatists, handing round at regular intervals neat slices from the massy joints of their erudition or their wit. They smile sadly and yet complacently over their tea-cups as the prowler enters. They wait until the victim is in right position, viz. with a perfectly true remark about the weather, or Sunday, or sport, or dentists; and then suddenly “slit the thin-spun life” with an unseasonable query or corroboration. The hostess smiles imperceptibly. In a few moments the prowler is gone. “Mr. ——,” says the hostess, “you pronounce the sweetest obituaries I ever meet, but I have never known you to pronounce them over the deceased.”
“Send up some buttered crumpets and slow poison” wrapped up the conversation, which, after all, was between kids of a cynical era during tea time. But a lot of truth gets shared over tea in Oxford. The hours between four and seven are definitely critical. It’s a carefree, lighthearted time, a break between the pressure of exercise and the pressure of food. No one is really praised, yet no one is envied. I think some reasons for the University’s love of parody could be traced back to Oxford tea. Over his crumpet or “slow poison,” the undergraduate, who knows just enough, makes grand plans for the world, settles even bigger issues, and accepts a viceroyalty from Providence with a smile. For some, it’s a celebration of Slang—our cherished goddess! I’ve heard a language expert track a little Oxford phrase back to the thieves of Manchester over a century ago. Now, he’s crafting deep or clever speeches for the Union, planning “rags” and protests, writing for the student magazines, and getting his revenge with some well-picked words against coaches, professors, football captains, and all kinds of Pomposity, Dullness, and Common Sense. “Common sense,” one says, “is nonsense à la mode.” He enjoys critiquing life and comes up with witty remarks. He thinks to himself, “In much wisdom is much grief: and he that[Pg 382] increases knowledge increases sorrow,” and tries to create sayings that, if not truer than proverbs, are at least funnier. Others wander around: i.e. they go around casually visiting friends, which is a burden for many of its beneficiaries. Some of these wanderers seem to thrive on this kind of socializing—taking others’ time while freely giving away theirs. They’ll brag about visiting twenty tea parties in one afternoon. But Sunday brings their reckoning. They look a bit more serious on their way to the drawing rooms of Oxford hosts. In the comfy chairs sit the chronic regulars—cold, gloomy spectators, or bold, humorless epigram lovers, passing around precise slices of their depth of knowledge or humor at regular intervals. They look at the prowler with a sad yet satisfied smile over their tea cups as he arrives. They wait until he’s in a good spot, say, with a perfectly reasonable comment about the weather, Sunday, sports, or dentists; then they suddenly "cut the thin-spun life" with a random question or affirmation. The hostess smiles just a bit. A moment later, the prowler is gone. “Mr. ——,” says the hostess, “you deliver the sweetest obituaries I’ve ever heard, but I’ve never seen you deliver them over the deceased.”
And teaspoons clink to the cozy hum In scientific circles. Here echoes
The football field with its noisy crowd,
The crowd that cheers but doesn't judge....
There are also teas with the young, the beautiful,[Pg 383] and the virtuous in the plain and exclusive northernmost haunts of learning in Oxford. The University could not well do without their sweet influences. Yet if men, in their company, are often better than themselves, as is only right, they are perhaps less than themselves. Also, in wit carnivals, it is permitted to women to use all kinds of weapons, from a sigh to a tea-urn; to men they are not permitted, although they have nothing sharper or more rankling in their armoury. Hence, on the part of generous women, a sort of pity, and on the part of men some timidity and (short of rudeness) tergiversation. And I am not privileged to give an account of a real Somerville tea.
There are also teas with the young, the beautiful,[Pg 383] and the virtuous in the exclusive northernmost spots of learning in Oxford. The University really couldn’t do without their positive influence. Yet if men, in their presence, are often better than they are on their own, as is only fair, they might also be less than themselves. Additionally, at wit gatherings, women are allowed to use all sorts of tactics, from a sigh to a tea urn; men aren’t permitted the same, even though they have nothing sharper or more painful in their arsenal. This leads to a kind of compassion from generous women and a bit of timidity and (stopping short of being rude) evasiveness from men. And I’m not in a position to describe a real Somerville tea.
But it is a thing impossible to praise in rhyme or prose the pleasures of tea at Oxford—perhaps especially in autumn, as the sun is setting after rain—when a man knows not whether it is pleasanter to be rained upon at Cumnor, or to be dried again by his fire—and the bells are ringing.
But it’s impossible to express in rhyme or prose the joys of tea at Oxford—maybe especially in autumn, as the sun sets after the rain—when a person can’t decide whether it’s nicer to be caught in the rain at Cumnor or to warm up again by the fire—and the bells are ringing.
To life that's so friendly.
Perhaps, as you light candles, and ask, “What is warmth without light?” your companion replies, “A minor poet”; and when you ask again in irritation, “What is light without warmth?” he is ready with, “An edition of Tennyson with notes.” And not even the recollection of such things and worse can spoil the charm of Oxford tea. Then it is that the homeliness of Oxford[Pg 384] is dearest. And what a carnival of contrasts in men and manners can be seen in a little room. “Oxford,” writes the Oxford Spectator,—
Perhaps, as you light candles and ask, “What’s warmth without light?” your friend replies, “A minor poet”; and when you ask again, a bit annoyed, “What’s light without warmth?” he’s quick to answer, “An edition of Tennyson with notes.” And not even the memory of such things and worse can ruin the charm of Oxford tea. That’s when the coziness of Oxford[Pg 384] feels the most precious. And what a mix of contrasts in people and behaviors can be seen in a small room. “Oxford,” writes the Oxford Spectator,—
All the men living here are players:
They have their leave permissions and tests;
And during his lifetime, one man plays many roles,
His life is divided into seven stages. First, the Freshman,
Tripping and stumbling in his tutor's office.
And then the hopeful Classman, wearing a white tie
And a shy, downcast face, moving slowly along Unwilling to attend the Schools. Then, at the Union,
Ranting like crazy, with some miserable nonsense After the “Crisis.” Then a billiards player,
Full of weird promises, a sharp and crafty card,
Smart with cannons, سريع in dangerous situations,
Building a billiard reputation Even in the pocket's mouth. And then the guy,
His fair, round forehead lined with deep wrinkles, With tired eyes and a patchy beard,
Filled with ancient knowledge that has no practical use, And so he plays his role. The sixth age changes. Into the lean and study-worn Professor, With glasses on my nose and class by my side; His youthful nose has become way too big. For his shrunken face and his deep, masculine voice, Turning again towards childish high-pitched sounds, pipes And whistles in his sound. The final scene of all,
That concludes this strange and eventful history. In complete scholarly arrogance and total insignificance,
Without respect, tact, taste, or anything else.
I said that undergraduate magazine humour was a tea-table flower. I should have said that it flowers at tea and is harvested after dinner. The penning of it is a nocturnal occupation, and the best wit is sometimes the result of that pregnant nervousness which comes from competing with time. It was until very lately[Pg 386][Pg 385]
I said that college magazine humor was like a flower you find at tea time. I should have said it blooms during tea and is picked after dinner. Writing it is usually a late-night activity, and the best jokes often come from that anxious urgency of racing against the clock. It was only very recently[Pg 386][Pg 385]

THE SHELDONIAN THEATRE AND OLD CLARENDON BUILDINGS
THE SHELDONIAN THEATRE AND OLD CLARENDON BUILDINGS
The steps from Cat Street lead to the enclosure of the Theatre, the east entrance of which is seen. Above the entrance, and crowning the roof of the Theatre, rises Sir Christopher Wren’s cupola, from the windows of which a panorama appears of unsurpassed beauty and interest.
The steps from Cat Street lead to the area of the Theatre, with the east entrance visible. Above the entrance, and topping the roof of the Theatre, stands Sir Christopher Wren’s cupola, from the windows of which a stunning panorama unfolds, full of beauty and interest.
On the right of the picture is the south front of the Clarendon Building.
On the right side of the image is the southern front of the Clarendon Building.
a tradition that undergraduate journalism should be anonymous. Of many good and feeble things the authorship will now probably never be known. “Hath the rain a father? or who hath begotten the drops of dew?” And it is an odd thing that so few reputations have been promised or made therein. Probably the writers of the Cambridge Light Green and the “Lambkin Papers” in the J.C.R. of Oxford have alone not only shown but fulfilled their promise in contributions to an undergraduate periodical. The explanation is that the cleverest men are content to produce either parody or what is narrowly topical, and both of these are usually born in their graves. “Parody,” said a don, “is always with us, and nearly always against us.” Parody and its companions are, in fact, a sort of unofficial bull-dogs, that persecute all forms of bad, and even good, behaviour which do not come within the proctor’s jurisdiction. The proctor is a favourite victim. “O vestment of velvet and virtue,” runs an obvious parody in the Shotover Papers of 1874, by “Gamble Gold,”—
a tradition that undergraduate journalism should be anonymous. Of many good and weak things, the authorship will likely never be known. “Does the rain have a father? Or who has created the drops of dew?” It’s strange that so few reputations have been promised or made from it. Probably the writers of the Cambridge Light Green and the “Lambkin Papers” in the J.C.R. of Oxford are the only ones who have not only shown but fulfilled their potential in contributions to an undergraduate publication. The explanation is that the smartest people are satisfied to create either parody or content that’s very specific to current events, and both of these usually become irrelevant over time. “Parody,” said a professor, “is always around, and almost always works against us.” Parody and its allies are, in fact, like unofficial watchdogs that target all forms of bad, and even good, behavior that don’t fall under the proctor’s control. The proctor is a favorite target. “O garment of velvet and virtue,” goes an obvious parody in the Shotover Papers of 1874, by “Gamble Gold,”—
O toxic winners of vice,
Who has hurt men who have never hurt you,
Oh, calm, cruel, colder than ice.
Why are you deliberately starting this war? Do you feel pure pity deep inside you? O purse-snatching Procuratores,
Oh, relentless nuisance!
The wise fool, the foolish wise man, the impostor, and the ungainly fanatic, are all game to the undergraduate[Pg 390] satirist. “We draw our bow at a venture,” he writes; “so look to it, don and undergraduate, boating men and reading men; look to it, O Union orators, statesmen of the future; look to it, ye patrons of St. Philip’s and St. Aldate’s; look to it, ye loungers in the Parks; look to it, ye Proctors, and thou, O Vice-Chancellor, see that your harness be well fitted, that between its joints no arrow shall pierce. Our aim is careless, but perhaps it may strike deep; if we cannot smite a king we shall contentedly wing a freshman.” Not seldom this note of Titanic defiance is struck by the freshman himself. If he cannot be an example of what is most subtle in literature or most brilliant in life, he will peacefully consent to be in his own person a warning against the commonplace. He is, indeed, very often among the parodists, although as a rule he does not get beyond imitation. Perhaps the large percentage of parodists will account for that timidity of poets which has left Cambridge almost without a tribute from its countless band. The gay, sarcastic man who dines next to you, or is a fellow-officer at the Union, is bound to hear of your serious follies in print, and will as infallibly make that an excuse for rushing into print himself. I have even heard it seriously urged that the number of critics in Oxford accounts for the silence of nearly every one else, and that not the irresponsible undergraduate alone blasts the blossoms of wisdom while he takes the sting out of foolishness. A cautious use of high teas might be recommended as a step towards seriousness.[Pg 391]
The wise fool, the foolish wise man, the impostor, and the awkward fanatic are all fair game for the undergraduate satirist. “We take our shots at random,” he writes; “so watch out, dons and undergrads, rowers and readers; watch out, you Union speakers and future statesmen; watch out, patrons of St. Philip’s and St. Aldate’s; watch out, you park loungers; watch out, you Proctors, and you, Vice-Chancellor, make sure your armor is secure, so that no arrow can penetrate between its joints. Our aim may be careless, but it might hit hard; if we can’t take down a king, we’ll happily hit a freshman.” This bold tone is often echoed by the freshman himself. If he can’t be a model of sophistication in literature or brilliance in life, he’ll happily serve as a warning against the ordinary. He is often found among the parodists, though usually he doesn't progress beyond imitation. Maybe the high number of parodists explains the hesitance of poets, which has left Cambridge almost without any tribute from its many talents. The humorous, sarcastic person dining next to you, or who is a fellow officer at the Union, is likely to hear about your serious missteps in print and will almost certainly use that as an excuse to rush into print himself. I’ve even heard it seriously suggested that the abundance of critics in Oxford accounts for the silence of nearly everyone else, and that not just the irresponsible undergraduate stifles the blossoms of wisdom while dismissing foolishness. A careful approach to high teas might be advised as a step toward seriousness.
Some, even to-day, fly speedily from tea to work. Upon others, and in some degree upon these, dinner lays a cheerful hand in anticipation. The optimist becomes “happier and wiser both.” The very pessimist rises at least to a cynic. Under the head of dinner I include, first and least, the discussion of the cook’s poetry and prose, if one may be permitted to make the distinction, since his joints have been called “poems in prose”; second, the feast of reason, etc.; third, those acts of pleasure or duty which came naturally to the wise diner. The first two are hardly distinct acts. “We devour” says Leigh Hunt, “wit and argument, and discuss a turkey and chine.” The word “dinner” was once derived from the Greek word for terrible, and was held to imply not so much its terrors for the after-dinner speaker, as for the man who came simply to eat. Most Oxford colleges have accordingly an elaborate and forcible set of rules for humiliating the sordid man. In old days he apparently quoted from the Bible, which every one knew, just as every one knows the Times to-day; and consequently a quotation from the Bible was punished along with puns, quotations from Latin and Greek, and oaths. As unbecoming to a feast of reason, flannels and other clothes belonging to the barbaric hours of life are forbidden. The unpunctuality of such as obviously come only to devour is treated in the same way. Gross inadvertence or apparent physical incapacity to do anything but eat have also been punished in gentlemen both punctual and suitably clothed; but these and other excesses of[Pg 392] virtuous intention are not always sanctioned by the High Table. The punishment usually takes the form of a fine to the extent of two quarts of beer, which the sufferer has to put in circulation among his judges. Punning, too, is attacked. It was time that the pun should go. It was becoming too perfect, and a monopoly of the mathematical mind. Two hundred years ago men laughed at this:—“A chaplain in the University of Oxford, having one leg bigger than the other, was told that his legs might be chaplains too, for they were never like to be fellows.” To-day, it is doubtful whether it would be honoured by the fine or “sconce.” Yet the pun has in a sense been supplanted not very worthily by the “spoonerism.” That, too, has become a very solemn affair. It is in the hands of calculating prodigies, and men are expected to laugh at “pictures defeated” instead of “features depicted” and the like. It smacks of the logic required for a pass degree, while the old puns sentent plus le vin que l’huile. Yet the spoonerism is venerable in years; and Anthony Wood records among his pieces of humour the saying of Dr. Ratcliff of Brasenose, that “a proud man will buy a dagger or die a beggar.” Nor is the anecdote extinct, as one may learn from the laughter at any High Table, where it is known that men do not discuss ontology. Oxford humour, at and after dinner, may be divided under these heads:—
Some people today rush from tea to work. For others, and to some extent for these, dinner brings a cheerful anticipation. The optimist becomes "happier and wiser both." The pessimist at least becomes a cynic. When I talk about dinner, I include, first and foremost, discussing the cook's poetry and prose, if I can be allowed to make that distinction, since his dishes have been called "poems in prose"; second, the feast of reason, etc.; and third, those acts of enjoyment or duty that come naturally to the wise diner. The first two are hardly separate acts. “We devour” says Leigh Hunt, “wit and argument, and discuss a turkey and chine.” The word “dinner” originally came from the Greek word for terrible, which implied not just the fears of the after-dinner speaker, but also the distress of the person just there to eat. Most Oxford colleges have an elaborate and forceful set of rules for humbling the greedy person. In earlier times, he apparently quoted from the Bible, which everyone knew, just as everyone knows the Times today; thus, quoting the Bible was punished alongside puns, quotes from Latin and Greek, and oaths. Clothing deemed inappropriate for the feast of reason, like flannels and other attire from the rougher parts of life, is banned. Tardiness from those who obviously come just to eat is treated similarly. Serious carelessness or apparent physical inability to do anything but eat have also been penalized in gentlemen who are both punctual and appropriately dressed; however, these and other excesses of[Pg 392] good intention are not always backed by the High Table. The punishment typically involves a fine of two quarts of beer, which the offender must circulate among his judges. Punning is also criticized. It was time for the pun to be phased out. It was getting too polished and becoming a monopoly of the mathematical mind. Two hundred years ago, men found this amusing:—“A chaplain in the University of Oxford, with one leg larger than the other, was told that his legs might be chaplains too, as they would never be fellows.” Today, it’s uncertain whether it would incur a fine or “sconce.” Yet, the pun has, in a way, been ungratefully replaced by the “spoonerism.” That, too, has turned into a very serious thing. It’s now handled by calculating geniuses, and people are expected to laugh at “pictures defeated” instead of “features depicted” and similar constructions. It feels reminiscent of the logic needed for a pass degree, whereas the old puns sentent plus le vin que l’huile. Nevertheless, the spoonerism has been around for a long time; and Anthony Wood records among his humorous anecdotes the saying of Dr. Ratcliff of Brasenose, that “a proud man will buy a dagger or die a beggar.” The anecdote is still relevant, as can be seen from the laughter at any High Table, where it's known that men don’t discuss ontology. Oxford humor, during and after dinner, can be categorized under these headings:—
(2) The Epigram.
(3) Humour.
The first, saving when it amounts to house-breaking or assault, or should endanger the perpetrator under the last Licensing Act, consists in the thoughtful preparation and execution of something unexpected for the benefit of an offending person, or in the elaboration of something visibly and audibly funny for fun’s sake at the expense of the artists alone. It was “a rag,” for example, two hundred and fifty years ago, as also more recently, to make a various and crowded ceremony of the enforced exit of a popular undergraduate. The hero may be mounted on a hearse or a steam-roller, and proceed with stately accompaniment. Or he may go in pink with a pack of bull-dogs, and whips dressed as proctors, to the tune of “ The Conquering Hero.” Some prefer twenty-four barrel-organs, if obtainable. But the “rag” is a branch of decorative art that deserves a volume with illustrations. No one who has not studied it can guess at the beautiful work which is devoted to the conversion of a gentleman’s bedroom into a sitting-room. Any one who would teach us how divine a thing the rag can be made, would be heartily thanked. I may remark, in passing, that it gives full play to the intellect,—is, in fact, a counterpart to the occupations of the schoolmen, and is neither less practical nor less ingenious, and reaches its highest perfection in the hands of scholars who can do nothing without remembering Plato, and say nothing without remembering Aristophanes. Lest I should be suspected of not being on the side of the angels in recent controversy, I will give no examples, save a trifling one[Pg 394] which has just been recalled for me by a volume of Hazlitt. We made a supper party of six with Corydon, our host at —— in Oxford. His gestures (particularly a gracious way of bowing his head as he smiled) had a magic that quickly made our number seem inevitable and right. Very soon all were talking eagerly in harmonious alternation. A choicely laden board of cold viands, which none seemed to have noticed, stood unvisited, and was finally cleared. Corydon was speaking (of nothing in the least important) when the servant carried in a strange but dainty course of little, fine old books that sent the conversation happily into every nook that rivers from Helicon visit. Again and again came in dishes of the same character, for which Corydon’s purse and library had been ransacked. The wealth of how many provinces—to use an honoured phrase—had gone to the preparation of that meal! “And by the way, I have some cold fowls and wine and fruit ready,” the host said suddenly.... One found that Shelley and champagne were good bosom friends; another that a compôte of port, Montaigne, and pomegranate was incomparable.... This Hazlitt also was at that excellent supper and “rag.” Nor can I omit a mention of the strong sculptor who strove all night in the midst of a wintry quadrangle, in order to astonish the college with a snow statue of the most jovial fellow of the society, with a cigar between his teeth and a bottle in each hand. Mr. Godley has sung of a more boisterous rag, “the raid the Saxon made on the Cymru men,” which was in this way:[Pg 395]—
The first type of fun, saving when it turns into breaking and entering or assault, or could endanger the person doing it under the latest Licensing Act, involves carefully planning and carrying out something unexpected for the benefit of an offending individual, or creating something visibly and audibly funny just for laughs at the expense of the performers alone. It was considered “a rag,” for example, two hundred and fifty years ago, and more recently, to turn the forced exit of a popular student into a big event. The main character might be on a hearse or a steamroller, accompanied by a grand procession. Or he could dress in pink with a pack of bulldogs and whips dressed like proctors, to the tune of “The Conquering Hero.” Some prefer twenty-four barrel-organs, if they can find them. But the “rag” is a form of decorative art that deserves a whole book with pictures. No one who hasn’t studied it can appreciate the creative work involved in transforming a gentleman’s bedroom into a sitting room. Anyone who could teach us just how wonderful a rag can be would be greatly appreciated. I should note that it fully engages the intellect—it’s, in fact, a counterpart to the pursuits of scholars, and is neither less practical nor less clever, reaching its finest form in the hands of scholars who cannot think of anything without referencing Plato and can’t speak without recalling Aristophanes. To avoid any suspicion of not being on the side of the good in recent debates, I’ll give no examples, except for a minor one[Pg 394] that has just been reminded to me by a book of Hazlitt's. We hosted a supper party of six with Corydon, our host at —— in Oxford. His gestures (especially a charming way of bowing his head when he smiled) had a charm that quickly made our gathering feel perfectly natural and right. Before long, all were eagerly chatting in a pleasing rhythm. A beautifully arranged table of cold dishes, which no one had seemed to notice, remained untouched until it was cleared. Corydon was talking (about something trivial) when the servant brought in a surprising yet delightful course of small, fine old books that happily led the conversation into every area touched by the rivers of Helicon. Again and again, dishes of the same sort arrived, thanks to Corydon’s purse and library being emptied for the occasion. The bounty of so many regions—the term is well-deserved—had gone into that meal’s preparation! “And by the way, I have some cold chicken, wine, and fruit ready,” the host suddenly mentioned.... It turned out that Shelley and champagne were great companions; another person noticed that a compôte of port, Montaigne, and pomegranate was exceptional.... This Hazlitt was also at that delightful supper and “rag.” I cannot skip mentioning the skilled sculptor who worked all night in a chilly courtyard, aiming to astonish the college with a snow statue of the jolliest member of the society, holding a cigar and a bottle in each hand. Mr. Godley has sung of a rowdy rag, “the raid the Saxon made on the Cymru men,” which was in this manner:[Pg 395]—
The Saxon groups arrived, knocking at a gate,—
They came to see Mr. Jones. He had politely invited them in for tea, they said.
(Completely inappropriate for tea parties) they shouted loudly, “Jones!”
One, two, three, four, five, six—all Mr. Joneses—
Loud as Lliwedd’s echoes are, everyone insisted, “We
"Never invited these noisy Saesnegs for tea!"
Then came the Cymru groups: their numbers were countless:
Retribution, strict and quick, always strikes back. Anyone who dares to mess with brave little Wales....
One who might be supposed to know said in 1899 that where a Cambridge man would know an article from the Encyclopædia Britannica by heart, an Oxford man would abridge it in an epigram; and there, he contended, was a difference and a distinction. But the epigram is said to be dying. It were greatly to be regretted, if that were true, since the epigram was the handsomest medium ever chosen by inexperience for its own expression. As poetry is a criticism of life by livers, so the epigram is a criticism of life by those who have not lived. It used to be the toga of the infant prodigy at Oxford. “If only life were a dream, and I could afford hansoms!” or “A little Jowett is a dangerous thing!” used to pass muster in a crowd of epigrams. But I seemed to see the skirt of[Pg 396] the departing epigram this year, when a young man exclaimed that he had discovered that, “After all, life is the thing,” in a discussion concerning conduct and literature: and the shock was hardly lessened by the critical repartee that the remark was “not only true but inadequate.” A few years ago smaller notions than that were not allowed to go into the world without their fashionable suit. That was the epigram. It was a verbal parallel to legerdemain. The quickness of the fancy deceived the brain: or rather the brain made it a point of courtesy to be deceived. For there was a kindly conspiracy between the speaker and the hearer in the matter of epigrams. A certain degree of skill was expected of the latter, who knew almost infallibly whether a saying was an epigram, just as he would have known a hearse or a skiff. It was the jingling bell which every one but the exceptionally clever wore in his cap, to prove that he aspired to talk. All were epigrammatists, and regarded as alien nothing epigrammatical. When “Lady Windermere’s Fan” was played at Oxford, even those who had not heard them before laughed at the epigrams in the Club scene. One such remarked to a persevering imitator of Wilde: “The epigrams in ‘Lady Windermere’ were a faint echo of yourself.” But these are other times, and when the same youth, bald and still young, very recently ventured to clothe a little truism archaically, the curate next to him touched a note of horror mingled with contempt as he said, “That sounded like an epigram.” In one respect an Oxford dinner is the better for the absence[Pg 397] of epigram. The machine-made article is impossible. It used to be as ineffectual as the prayers of Thibet. A man might be seen, forgetful of the world, nursing his faculties from soup to ice, in the gestation of an epigram. Thus it tended to cast a shadow over conversation, and to replace the genial, slow, and whist-like alternations of good talk with the sudden follies of snap or the violences of bridge. Breakfast itself was sometimes made the occasion of duels, with a thrust and parry not oftener than twice in a course. A man would come melancholy to luncheon because he had not hit upon a good thing in the lecture which preceded it. Nevertheless, there was something to be said for the manufacture, if not for the manufacturer. His epigrams could be repeated spontaneously by another. Thus an elderly morose undergraduate, unable to knot a bow, would one day ejaculate at the wrong moment: “A woman is never too stupid to be loved, nor too clever to love.” The next evening a simple and dashing boy would make a hit with it, by nice judgment of time and place. Much applause was sometimes accorded to the wit of laborious, obscure young men who were content to father their offspring upon the illustrious. Thus, one undergraduate was once found slaving at an original work, entitled “Addenda to the Posthumous Humour of the late Master of Balliol.”
One person who should know mentioned in 1899 that while a Cambridge guy could recite an article from the Encyclopædia Britannica by heart, an Oxford guy would summarize it in an epigram; and he argued that this highlighted a difference and distinction. However, the epigram is said to be fading away. It would be a real shame if that’s true, as the epigram was the most elegant way for the inexperienced to express themselves. Just as poetry critiques life from the perspective of those who have lived it, the epigram offers a critique from those who haven't. It used to symbolize the budding genius at Oxford. Lines like “If only life were a dream, and I could afford hansoms!” or “A little Jowett is a dangerous thing!” used to be well-received amongst a crowd of epigrams. But I seemed to witness the decline of the epigram this year when a young man declared he had discovered that “After all, life is the thing,” during a debate about behavior and literature; the shock was hardly lessened by the critical comeback that his statement was “not only true but inadequate.” A few years back, smaller ideas like that wouldn’t be allowed to enter the world without their stylish presentation. That was the epigram. It was like a verbal trick. The quickness of thought fooled the mind, or rather, the mind graciously chose to be fooled. There was a friendly conspiracy between the speaker and the listener regarding epigrams. The listener was expected to have a certain level of skill, knowing almost perfectly whether something was an epigram, just as he would recognize a hearse or a small boat. It was the jingling bell that everyone except the exceptionally clever wore on their cap to show they aimed to engage in conversation. Everyone was an epigrammatist and nothing epigrammatical was seen as foreign. When “Lady Windermere’s Fan” was performed at Oxford, even those who hadn’t heard the lines before laughed at the epigrams in the Club scene. One such person told a persistent imitator of Wilde, “The epigrams in ‘Lady Windermere’ were a faint echo of yourself.” But these are different times, and when the same young man, bald yet still young, recently tried to express a small truth in an old-fashioned way, the curate beside him reacted with a mix of horror and disdain, saying, “That sounded like an epigram.” In one way, an Oxford dinner is improved by the absence of epigrams. The mass-produced ones are useless. They used to be as ineffective as prayers from Tibet. A man might be seen, lost in thought, nurturing his creativity from soup to dessert, while trying to come up with an epigram. This often cast a shadow over conversation and replaced the friendly, leisurely back-and-forth of good talk with the abrupt foolishness of quick remarks or the intensity of card games. Breakfast was sometimes the stage for duels, with back-and-forth exchanges occurring no more than twice in a meal. A man would arrive at lunch feeling down because he hadn’t thought of anything clever in the preceding lecture. Still, there was something to be said for the production of epigrams, even if not for the producer. His epigrams could be repeated spontaneously by someone else. Thus, one grumpy older student, unable to tie a bow, might blurt out at the wrong moment, “A woman is never too stupid to be loved, nor too clever to love.” The next evening, a simple and charismatic young man could make it a hit with perfect timing and setting. Many times, applause would be given to the wit of earnest, obscure young men who were willing to attribute their clever lines to the famous. Thus, one undergraduate was once found laboring on a piece titled “Addenda to the Posthumous Humour of the late Master of Balliol.”
Of humour, the third division, there is nothing to be said. It has been met with at the Union, in spite of the notice:[Pg 398]—
Of humor, the third division, there's nothing to say. It's been encountered at the Union, despite the notice:[Pg 398]—
of Sword and Trowel or a choice of hat bands.
For the most part, the heavier vices and lighter virtues of speech are said to flourish there. “It is a pity,” said a critic of the Union, “that so many ingenious youths should disarm themselves by pretending to be in the House of Commons, which they rival as a club.” A Frenchman has said that its histrionic wealth at one time equalled the house of Molière. Indeed, as a home of comedy it is the most amusing and accomplished in Oxford; and on that account, probably, the public theatre seldom provides anything but opera and farce. A bland, clever youth, stooping like a candle in hot July—his body and a scroll of foolscap quivering with emotion, as he suggests to a smiling house that the Conservative party should bury its differences under the sole management of Mr. Redmond: a stiff, small, heroic figure—with a mouth that might sway armies, a voice as sweet as Helicon, as irresistible and continuous as Niagara—pouring forth praise of the English aristocracy and the Independent Labour Party, to a house that believes or disbelieves, and applauds: a minute, tormented skeleton, acrobatic and ungainly, so eloquent on the futility of Parliament, that he might govern the Empire, if he could govern himself: one who is not really comfortable without a cigarette, yet awes the house by his superb complacency, as he utters now and[Pg 399] then a languid epigram about the Irish peasantry or indigo, in the brief intervals of an apparent colloquy with himself:—these and a multitude of the fervid, the weighty, the listless, the perky, and the dull, are among the Union orators of yesterday. “I went to the Union to be amused,” says one. “They were debating a question of literature. A brilliant man opened; a learned opposed. Others followed—some for, some against, the motion; others again made observations. I was not disappointed. I was edified. There was no research. There was little originality. But there was a dazzling simplicity and lucidity, and an extraordinary power of treating controversially the profoundest matters as if they were common knowledge; above all, the reserved gestures, the self-control, were dignified, and made me believe that I was listening to the opinions of an assembly of middle-aged men of the world, and not a handful of students not yet past their majority.” But the glories of Union oratory are weekly: the theatre is consequently a favourite evening lounge; some even prefer it on Thursdays. It is noticeable that the house is more familiar than elsewhere in its praise or disapproval of the players. Half a dozen in the dress circle will hold a (rather one-sided) conversation with the stage for half an evening. It is also customary, and especially on Saturdays, for the audience to sing the choruses of songs to their taste many times over, and then to revive them in the quiet streets. Banquets, and the reception given to the speeches of actors and managers, and the nature of those speeches[Pg 400] as well, prove the hearty fellowship between University and stage. It has long been so. “At a stage play in Oxford,” says one old author, “(at the King’s Arms in Holywell) a Cornishman was brought in to wrestle with three Welshmen, one after another, and when he had worsted them all, he called out, as his part was, Have you any more Welshmen? Which words one of Jesus College took in such indignation that he leaped upon the stage and threw the player in earnest.” It must be admitted, however, that such familiarities on the stage itself are now unknown.
For the most part, the major flaws and minor virtues of speech are said to thrive there. “It’s a shame,” said a critic of the Union, “that so many talented young people should undermine themselves by pretending to be in the House of Commons, which they treat like a club.” A Frenchman once noted that its theatrical richness once rivaled the house of Molière. Indeed, as a center of comedy, it is the most entertaining and skilled in Oxford; likely for this reason, the public theater often offers only opera and farce. A charming, clever young man, bending like a candle in hot July—his body and a sheet of foolscap shaking with emotion, as he suggests to a smiling audience that the Conservative party should set aside its differences under the sole leadership of Mr. Redmond: a stiff, small, heroic figure—with a mouth that could sway armies, a voice as sweet as Helicon, as powerful and endless as Niagara—pouring out praise for the English aristocracy and the Independent Labour Party, to an audience that either believes or doubts, and applauds: a tiny, tormented skeleton, clumsy and awkward, so articulate about the futility of Parliament, that he could govern the Empire, if he could manage himself: one who isn’t truly comfortable without a cigarette, yet impresses the crowd with his amazing self-assurance, while he occasionally shares a lazy quip about the Irish peasantry or indigo, in the brief pauses of an apparent dialogue with himself:—these, along with many others—passionate, profound, listless, peppy, and dull—are among the Union speakers of yesterday. “I went to the Union to be entertained,” says one. “They were debating a topic in literature. A brilliant speaker opened; a learned person opposed. Others followed—some for, some against the motion; others made comments. I wasn’t disappointed. I was enlightened. There was no research. There was little originality. But there was a dazzling simplicity and clarity, and an impressive ability to discuss profound issues as if they were common knowledge; above all, the restrained gestures, the self-control, were dignified and made me feel like I was listening to the opinions of a group of middle-aged worldly men, and not a handful of students barely past their teenage years.” But the glories of Union speeches are weekly: the theater is consequently a popular evening hangout; some even prefer it on Thursdays. It’s noticeable that the audience is more casual than elsewhere in its praise or criticism of the speakers. Half a dozen people in the dress circle will hold a (somewhat uneven) conversation with the stage for half an evening. It’s also customary, especially on Saturdays, for the audience to sing the choruses of songs they like repeatedly, and then to carry them into the quiet streets. Banquets, and the receptions for the speeches of actors and managers, and the nature of those speeches as well, demonstrate the genuine camaraderie between the University and the stage. This has been the case for a long time. “At a stage play in Oxford,” says one old writer, “(at the King’s Arms in Holywell) a Cornishman was brought in to wrestle with three Welshmen, one after another, and when he had defeated them all, he called out, as his line was, ‘Do you have any more Welshmen?’ One student from Jesus College took these words in such outrage that he jumped on stage and seriously threw the actor.” It must be acknowledged, however, that such interactions on stage are now unheard of.
To a stranger walking from the Union or the theatre, after Tom has sounded the ideal hour of studious retirement, Oxford might well appear to be a nest of singing birds. The windows of brilliantly lighted rooms, with curtains frequently undrawn, in dwelling-house or college, reveal rows of backs and rows of faces, with here one at a piano and there one standing beside, singing lustily, while the rest try with more or less success to concentrate their talents upon the chorus: probably they are singing something from Gaudeamus, Scarlet and Blue, or other song-books for students, soldiers, and sailors; or, it may be, a folk song that has never come into print. Sometimes, in the later evening, the singing is not so beautiful. For here those sing who never sang before, and those who used to sing now sing the more. Perhaps only the broadest-minded lover of grotesque contrasts will care for the ballads flung to the brightening moon among the battlements and towers. But the others should not[Pg 402][Pg 401]
To a stranger walking from the Union or the theater, after Tom has marked the ideal time for studying, Oxford might seem like a nest of singing birds. The windows of brightly lit rooms, with curtains often pulled back in houses or colleges, show rows of backs and faces, some at a piano and others standing beside it, singing loudly, while the rest try, with varying degrees of success, to join in the chorus: they might be singing something from Gaudeamus, Scarlet and Blue, or other songbooks for students, soldiers, and sailors; or perhaps a folk song that has never been published. Sometimes, later in the evening, the singing isn't as lovely. Here, you'll find those who never sang before giving it a go, and those who used to sing now doing so even more. Maybe only the most broad-minded fans of quirky contrasts will appreciate the ballads tossed up to the brightening moon among the battlements and towers. But the others should not[Pg 402][Pg 401]

JESUS COLLEGE
Jesus College
The romantic tower and lowering gateway of the College are almost in the centre of the picture—a bit of Exeter College appearing above the buildings to the left.
The romantic tower and lowering gateway of the College are almost in the center of the picture—a bit of Exeter College peeking above the buildings to the left.
Two masters are engaged in vigorous argument in front of the Principal’s door, over which is a “hood” of the Georgian period, in quaint contrast with the surrounding style of architecture.
Two masters are having a heated argument in front of the Principal’s door, which has a Georgian-style hood that looks oddly out of place with the surrounding architecture.
judge harshly or with haste. These are but part of the motley in which learning clothes itself. Much sound and fury is here no proof of deep-seated folly; nor quietness, of study; nor are a man’s age, dignity, and accomplishments in mathematical proportion to the demureness of his deportment. I notice on one little tankard these philosophies in brief, scrawled with a broken pen:—
judge harshly or quickly. These are just part of the mix that learning wraps itself in. A lot of noise and drama isn’t necessarily a sign of deep foolishness; nor does calmness mean study; and a person's age, dignity, and accomplishments don't directly reflect how modestly they behave. I see on one small tankard these philosophies summarized, scribbled with a broken pen:—
When we can no longer use or even misuse you?
To become dull and not to shine through use.
And though some are evidently framed with an eye confined to the tankard, how applicable all are to the shining pewter and life itself!
And even though some are clearly created with a focus on the tankard, how relevant they all are to the shiny pewter and life itself!
You shall be in one small sitting-room, on an evening, while in one corner a ditty from the Studentenlieder is hummed; in another, Hagen’s Carmina Medii Ævi or W. B. Yeats or Marlowe is declaimed; in another,[Pg 406] you shall hear ghosts or sports discussed; in a fourth, the orthodoxy of the Inferno: yet the whole company shall be one in spirit. And the same in another such room—where a dozen men are divided into groups around three of the number who are reading, for discussion, the rules of the Salvation Army, the Anthologia Planudea, and a Blue Book.
You’ll be in a small living room one evening, where in one corner someone is humming a tune from the Studentenlieder; in another corner, someone is reciting Hagen’s Carmina Medii Ævi, W. B. Yeats, or Marlowe; in yet another, you’ll hear discussions about ghosts or sports; and in a fourth corner, the orthodoxy of the Inferno. But the whole group will feel united in spirit. The same goes for another room, where a dozen people are split into groups around three of them reading and discussing the rules of the Salvation Army, the Anthologia Planudea, and a Blue Book.
At the top of an adjacent staircase there is a lonely gentleman eating strawberries and cream, and thinking about wall-paper; or one like a gnome, amidst innumerable books,—his floor strewn with notes, phrases, queries,—writing a prize essay; or one reading law, with his newly-presented football cap on his head; one reading Kipling and training a meerschaum; one alternately reading the Organon of Aristotle and quoting verbatim from Edgar Allen Poe to admiring workers at the same text; or one digesting opium, and now and then looking for five minutes at one or other of a huge pile of books at his side—Paul Verlaine, Marlowe, Jeremy Taylor, the Odyssey, Ariosto, and Pater. The staircases creak or clatter with the footsteps of men going up and down, to and from these rooms. Outside one or two sets of rooms the great outer door—the “oak”—is fastened, a signal that the owner wishes to be undisturbed, and practically an invitation to trials of strength with heel and shoulder from the passer-by. In the faintly lighted quadrangles, men are hurrying, or sauntering, or resting on the grass among the trees. Perhaps there is a light in the college hall. The sound of a castanet dance played by a band—or a song—comes through the window. The music[Pg 407] grows wilder. The chorus swallows up the song. There are half a dozen conductors beating time, among the crowded benches of the audience. The small lights are but stains upon the air, which is composed of cigar and cigarette smoke. Mirth is eloquently expressed in every way, from laughter to a snore. The candles begin to fall from the brackets; the seats are carried out; and, to a still wilder tune, two hundred men join hands and dance. The band is given no rest: in fact, they are unable to rest, and the same glow sits in their cheeks. But in the darkness they slip away. For all the candles are out, and there is a bonfire making red weals upon the grey walls; then another dance; and a hundred times, “Auld lang syne,” until the college is quiet, and but rarely a light is seen through curtains and over battlements: and the long Oxford night begins. Large reponens, we build up the fire. If it be autumn, we will hardly permit it ever to go out, thus consoling ourselves for the transitory glow of the sun, and fantastically handing on the sunsets of many summers and the dawns of many springs, in that constant flame. Sitting before it, we seem to evolve a fiery myth, and think that Apollo and Arthur and other “solar” heroes more probably leapt radiant from just such a fire before the eyes of more puissant dreamers in the old time. The light creeps along the wall, fingering title after title of our books. They are silently preluding to a second spring, when poets shall sing instead of birds, and we shall gather old fragrant flowers, not from groves, but from books. We see coming a long, new summer, a bookish summer,[Pg 408] when we shall rest by olive and holm oak and palm and cypress, and not leave our chairs—a summer of evenings, with tropic warmth, no cloud overhead, and skies of what hue we please.
At the top of a nearby staircase, there's a solitary guy enjoying strawberries and cream while contemplating wallpaper; or someone resembling a gnome surrounded by countless books, his floor littered with notes, phrases, and questions, writing an award-winning essay; or a student studying law with a brand-new football cap on his head; another one reading Kipling and working on his meerschaum pipe; someone alternating between reading Aristotle’s Organon and quoting Edgar Allan Poe to impressed fellow students at the same table; or one digesting opium, occasionally glancing at a massive pile of books beside him—Paul Verlaine, Marlowe, Jeremy Taylor, the Odyssey, Ariosto, and Pater. The staircases creak and clatter with the footsteps of people coming and going from these rooms. Outside a couple of sets of rooms, the heavy front door—the “oak”—is locked, signaling that the owner wants to be left alone, practically inviting passersby to test their strength against it with their heels and shoulders. In the dimly lit courtyards, people are rushing, strolling, or relaxing on the grass beneath the trees. There might be a light on in the college hall. The sound of a castanet dance played by a band—or a song—wafts through the window. The music[Pg 407] intensifies. The chorus drowns out the solo. There are several conductors keeping time among the packed audience. The small lights seem like mere smudges in the air, which is thick with cigar and cigarette smoke. Joy is expressed in every form, from laughter to snoring. The candles begin to drop from their holders; seats are moved out; and to an even more frenzied tune, two hundred men join hands and dance. The band can’t catch a break: in fact, they can’t rest, and the same glow appears on their cheeks. But in the darkness, they gradually slip away. All the candles have gone out, and a bonfire casts red shadows on the gray walls; then another dance; and a hundred renditions of “Auld Lang Syne,” until the college quiets down, and lights are only occasionally spotted through curtains and over battlements: the long Oxford night begins. Large reponens, we gather around the fire. If it's autumn, we hardly let it go out at all, thus comforting ourselves for the fleeting warmth of the sun, and fantastically passing on the sunsets of many summers and the dawns of many springs in that constant flame. Sitting by it, we seem to create a fiery myth, and think that Apollo, Arthur, and other “solar” heroes probably sprang to life from just such a fire before the eyes of more powerful dreamers back in the day. The light spreads along the wall, touching title after title of our books. They are silently hinting at a second spring, when poets will sing in place of birds, and we’ll collect old fragrant flowers, not from orchards, but from books. We see a long, new summer approaching, a literary summer,[Pg 408] when we’ll relax by olive, holm oak, palm, and cypress trees, never leaving our chairs—a summer of evenings with tropical warmth, no clouds above us, and skies of whatever color we choose.
To chase away the boring sadness,
And many Bards, who to the trembling chord Can skillfully adjust their timely voices: And many Chroniclers who can document
Old loves and battles for ladies carried out by many lords.
A certain Italian poet used “to retire to bed for the winter.” He had some wisdom, and we will follow him in spirit; but, having Oxford rooms and Oxford armchairs, that were not dreamed of in his philosophy, we need not stay abed. Few of the costless luxuries are dearer than the hour’s sleep amidst the last chapter of the night, while the fire is crumbling, grey, and murmurous, as if it talked in its sleep. The tenderest of Oxford poets knew these nights:—
A certain Italian poet would “retire to bed for the winter.” He had some wisdom, and we will follow him in spirit; but since we have Oxford rooms and Oxford armchairs that he never imagined, we don’t have to stay in bed. Few cheap luxuries are more valuable than the hour of sleep during the last chapter of the night, while the fire crackles softly, grey and murmuring, as if it’s talking in its sleep. The most sensitive of Oxford poets knew these nights:—
The wild wind howls, and throughout the air, The blue night air blows sharp and cold;
Otherwise, the night sleeps, and everything is calm. Now the lonely Square is surrounded by darkness,
A cloudy moonlight shines and falls On the walls of Bodley's:
Now, even wilder, while the moonlight fades,
Storm the wild winds.
O rare goddess of Night! Season of pure joy: Happy in-between space of day and day!
Without, a world of winds is at play:
Inside, I hear what my deceased friends are saying.[Pg 409]
Blow, winds! and circle that perfect Dome Cry out as much as you want, and clean, and wander: Above Saint Mary’s carved home,
Fight and strike for what you want. The holy observers on her spire:
Or in the distance challenge your strength Upon my own New College tower:
Do not hurt these! Not on me and mine. Clear candlelight in quiet glow:
My fire still burns! I haven't finished yet.
With Smollett or Richardson:
With, gentlest of the martyrs! Lamb,
Whose long-time lover I am:
With Gray, where generous spirit knew The sadness of the few lonely artists....
IN A COLLEGE GARDEN
CHAPTER VII
IN A COLLEGE GARDEN
In spring, when it rained, says Aubrey, Lord Bacon used to go into the fields in an open coach, “to receive the benefit of irrigation, which he was wont to say was very wholesome because of the nitre in the aire, and the universal spirit of the world.” Nor is it difficult in a college garden to associate the diverse ceremonial of Nature with the moods and great days of men. What, for example, can lay such fostering hands upon the spirit that has grown callous in the undecipherable sound of cities, as the grey February clouds that emerge from the sky hardly more than the lines in mother-of-pearl or the grain of a chestnut? I have thought,—in that garden,—that we are neglectful of the powers of herb and flower to educate the soul, and that the magical herbalists were nobly guessing at difficult truths when they strove to find a “virtue” in every product of lawn and sedge. There is a polarity between the genius of certain places and certain temperaments; our “genial air” or natal atmosphere is, we may think, enriched by the soul of innumerable plants, beyond the[Pg 414] neighbourhood of which some people are never quite themselves. And this college garden of smooth, shining lawn, and trees that seem more than trees in their close old friendship with grey masonry, has a singular aptness to—I had almost said a singular knowledge of—those who have first been aware of beauty in its shade. “If there be aught in heredity, I must perforce love gardens; and until the topographer of Eden shall arise, I have set my heart on this.” So says a theologian, one of its adornments in academic black and white.
In spring, when it rained, Aubrey mentions that Lord Bacon would ride into the fields in an open carriage, “to take advantage of the irrigation, which he used to say was very beneficial because of the nitrogen in the air and the universal spirit of the world.” It’s not hard in a college garden to connect nature's various rituals with the emotions and significant moments of people. For instance, what can nurture a spirit that has become hardened by the incomprehensible noise of cities like the grey February clouds that appear in the sky, barely more than the lines in mother-of-pearl or the texture of a chestnut? I’ve thought—in that garden—that we overlook the abilities of plants and flowers to nurture the soul, and that the magical herbalists were nobly hinting at complex truths when they tried to find a “virtue” in every natural product. There’s a connection between the spirit of certain places and specific personalities; our “friendly atmosphere” or birthplace is, we might say, enriched by the essence of countless plants, beyond which some people never truly feel themselves. And this college garden of smooth, shining grass, and trees that seem more than just trees in their close, long-term companionship with the grey stone, wonderfully fits those who have first recognized beauty in its shade. “If there’s anything to heredity, I must inevitably love gardens; and until someone maps out Eden, I have set my heart on this.” So says a theologian, one of its adornments in academic black and white.
Old and storied as it is, the garden has a whole volume of subtleties by which it avails itself of the tricks of the elements. Nothing could be more romantic than its grouping and contrasted lights when a great, tawny September moon leans—as if pensively at watch—upon the garden wall. No garden is so fortunate in retaining its splendour when summer brusquely departs, or so rich in the idiom of green leaves when the dewy charities of the south wind are at last accepted. None so happily assists the music and laughter and lamps of some festivity. And when in February the heavy rain bubbles at the foot of the trees, and spins a shifting veil about their height and over the grass, it seems to reveal more than it conceals. The loneliness of the place becomes intense, as if one were hidden far back in time, and one’s self an anachronism. It is a return to Nature. The whole becomes primeval; and it is hard to throw off the illusion of being deep in woods and in some potent presence[Pg 416][Pg 415]—
Old and storied as it is, the garden has a whole range of subtleties that it uses to take advantage of the elements. Nothing is more romantic than its arrangements and contrasting lights when a big, tawny September moon leans—almost like it's thoughtfully watching—against the garden wall. No garden is so lucky to maintain its beauty when summer abruptly leaves, or so rich in the language of green leaves when the refreshing gifts of the south wind are finally welcomed. None supports the music, laughter, and lights of a celebration so well. And when in February the heavy rain bubbles at the base of the trees, creating a shifting veil around their tops and over the grass, it seems to reveal more than it hides. The solitude of the place becomes intense, as if you're hidden far back in time, and you feel like an anachronism. It’s a return to Nature. The whole scene becomes ancient; and it’s hard to shake off the illusion of being deep in the woods and in some powerful presence[Pg 416][Pg 415]—

THE FELLOWS’ GARDEN, MERTON COLLEGE
The Fellows' Garden, Merton College
The portion of this garden shown is bounded by the south-east portion of the old City Wall, with one or two bastions still remaining, and the terrace walk formed on a mound level with the top of the steps, shown in the picture, commands a fine view of Christ Church Meadows and the Broad Walk. A grand avenue of lime trees is on the left, where at a lower level is placed an armillary sphere.
The part of the garden shown here is bordered by the southeast section of the old City Wall, with one or two bastions still intact. The terrace path, built on a mound level with the top of the steps seen in the picture, offers a great view of Christ Church Meadows and the Broad Walk. A grand row of lime trees lines the left side, where there is an armillary sphere positioned at a lower level.
The time is near sunset.
It's almost sunset.
Who the god is remains uncertain; God resides.
At such times the folded gloom gives up the tale of the past most willingly.
At times like these, the folded darkness easily reveals the story of the past.
The casual stranger sees little in the garden but neatness and repose. He may notice how luckily the few trees occur, and what warmth the shrubbery bestows, when they are black with rain and the crocus petals are spilt in silence. In a little while he may be privileged to learn what a great space for the eye, and especially for the imagination, the unknown gardener has contrived out of a few roods of high-walled grass. He will perhaps end by remarking that an acre is more than so many square yards, and by supposing that it is unique because it is academic.
The casual stranger sees little in the garden but neatness and calm. He might notice how well-placed the few trees are and the warmth the shrubbery provides, especially when it's drenched with rain and the crocus petals are quietly scattered. Soon enough, he may be lucky enough to realize the vast space the unknown gardener has created from just a few plots of high-walled grass, which offers plenty for the eye and especially the imagination. He might eventually observe that an acre is more than just a number of square yards and think it's special because it has a scholarly quality.
But it is no merely academic charm that keeps him there, whether the sun in October is so bright on the frosty grass that the dead leaves disappear when they fall,—or on a spring evening the great chestnut expands; its beauty and magnitude are as things newly and triumphantly acquired; and it fills the whole space of sky, and in a few minutes the constellations hang in its branches.
But it’s not just an academic fascination that holds him there, whether the sun in October shines so brightly on the frosty grass that the dead leaves vanish as they fall, or on a spring evening when the huge chestnut tree blooms; its beauty and size feel like something newly and triumphantly earned. It fills the entire sky, and in just a few minutes, the constellations hang from its branches.
It is rather perfect than academic; a garden of which the most would say that, after their own, it is the best. Its shape and size are accidents, for it embraces the sites of an old hall, a graveyard, and an orchard of Elizabeth’s time; and the expert mole might here and there discover traces of a dozen successive fashions since it was clipped and carved by a dialist and[Pg 420] peppered with tulips. But a thoughtful conservatism and a partnership between many generations have given it an indubitable style. The place has, as it were, a nationality, and the inevitable boundaries are apparently the finishing-strokes of the picture and not its aboriginal frame. Yet it is no natural garden into which any one may stroll and scatter the ends of cigarettes. A strong customary law is expressed by the very aspect of the place. Hence, part of it is still sacred to the statelier leisure of the dons. Hence, where any one can go, whether by right, or from a lack of beadles, it is the good fortune of every one to find himself alone when he reaches the spot. Even so, the trees have never quite their just tribute of dignity and ceremonial. They would be pleased to welcome back the days when Shenstone could only visit Jago secretly, because he wore a servitor’s gown; when even Gibbon remembered with satisfaction “the velvet cap and silk gown which distinguish a gentleman commoner from a plebeian student”; and when, within living memory, the “correct thing for the quiet, gentlemanly undergraduate was a black frock-coat and tall hat, with the neatest of gloves and boots,” on his country walk. The garden, when its borders were in scrolls, knots, and volutes, was certainly not among
It’s more perfect than formal; a garden that most would say is the best after their own. Its shape and size are just random choices, as it includes the sites of an old hall, a cemetery, and an orchard from Elizabethan times; and a skilled mole might find hints of various styles that have emerged since it was shaped and trimmed by a dialist and[Pg 420] adorned with tulips. However, a thoughtful approach and collaboration among many generations have given it a distinct style. The place has a sort of identity, and its clear boundaries seem to be the final touches of the artwork rather than its original framing. Yet, it's not a casual garden where anyone can wander in and leave cigarette butts. A strong, customary rule is reflected in how the place looks. Therefore, part of it still belongs to the more dignified leisure of the scholars. Consequently, where anyone can go, whether by right or due to a lack of monitors, everyone is fortunate to find themselves alone when they arrive there. Even so, the trees never fully receive their deserved respect and formality. They would love to see a return to the days when Shenstone could only visit Jago in secret because he wore a servant’s gown; when even Gibbon fondly recalled “the velvet cap and silk gown that set apart a gentleman commoner from an ordinary student”; and when, not too long ago, the “proper attire for a quiet, gentlemanly undergraduate was a black frock coat and tall hat, with the neatest gloves and boots” during his rural walks. The garden, when its borders were formed in scrolls, knots, and swirls, was definitely not among
but was chiefly honoured by those who had graduated into a grizzled wig “with feathery pride,”—Mr. Rake[Pg 421]well of Queen’s or Beau Trifle of Christ Church, or the ornate gentleman who are depicted in Ackerman,—and by dons who had never lost their self-respect by the scandal of keeping the company of undergraduates. When Latin was the language of conversation at dinner and supper, the trees looked their best. The change came, perhaps, in the days of the President who went about the world muttering Mors omnibus communis, or when our grandfathers made the gravel shriek with their armchair races across the quadrangles; for in those days, according to an authority on roses, undergraduates either read, or hunted, or drove, or rowed, or walked (i.e. up and down the High). The pile of the lawn continued to deepen, and the trees to write new legends upon the sky.
but was mainly respected by those who had donned a distinguished gray wig “with feathery pride,”—Mr. Rake[Pg 421]well from Queen’s or Beau Trifle from Christ Church, or the stylish gentleman depicted in Ackerman,—and by professors who maintained their dignity by avoiding any association with undergraduates. When Latin was the main language spoken at dinner and supper, the trees looked their finest. The shift likely began during the time of the President who wandered the world mumbling Mors omnibus communis, or when our grandfathers made the gravel crunch with their leisurely races across the quadrangles; because back then, according to a rose expert, undergraduates would either study, hunt, drive, row, or stroll (i.e. up and down the High). The lawn continued to grow thicker, and the trees continued to inscribe new stories in the sky.
The limes are in number equal to the fellows of the college, and, with the great warden horse-chestnut and the lesser trees, make up a solemn and wise society. They waste no time. Now and then they talk a little, and when one talks, the others follow; but as a rule the wryneck or the jackdaw talks instead; and with them it seems to be near the end of the day, nothing remaining save benedictus benedicat. In the angriest gale and in the scarcely grass-moving air of twilight the cypresses nod almost without sound. They are sentinels, unarmed, powerful in their unknown watchword, solemn and important as negroes born in the days of Haroun Alraschid. They say the last word on calm. And so old—— goes there often, to remember the great days of the college fifty years ago, and, looking[Pg 422] priest-like with his natural tonsure and black long gown, seems to worship some unpermitted graven image among the shadows. When he is in the garden, the intruder may see a complete piece of mediæval Oxford; for the louvre, and the line of roofs, and the mullioned windows are, from that point of view, as they were in the founder’s time.
The limes are about as many as the college members, and together with the large warden horse-chestnut and the smaller trees, they create a serious and wise atmosphere. They don’t waste time. Occasionally, they chat a bit, and when one speaks, the others join in; but usually, it’s the wryneck or the jackdaw doing the talking instead; and for them, it seems like the end of the day, with nothing left except benedictus benedicat. In the strongest winds and the barely stirring air of twilight, the cypresses sway almost silently. They stand guard, unarmed, strong in their unknown purpose, solemn and significant like individuals from the days of Haroun Alraschid. They hold the final word in calm. And so old—— goes there often, to recall the great days of the college fifty years ago, and, looking[Pg 422] priest-like with his natural haircut and long black robe, seems to be worshipping some forbidden statue in the shadows. When he is in the garden, the outsider can see a complete slice of medieval Oxford; for the louvre, the line of roofs, and the mullioned windows look, from that perspective, just as they did in the founder’s time.
At the feet of the trees are the flowers of the seasons in their order. Here and there the precious dark earth is visible, adding a charm to the pale green stems and leaves and the splendid or thoughtful hues of blossom. The flower borders and plots carve the turf into such a shape that it seems a great quiet monster at rest. One step ahead the grass is undivided, enamelled turf: underfoot, the innumerable blades have each a colour, a movement, a fragrance of their own,—as when one enters a crowd, that had seemed merely a crowd, and finds in it no two alike.
At the base of the trees are the flowers of the seasons in their order. Here and there, the rich dark soil is visible, adding charm to the light green stems and leaves and the vibrant or subtle colors of the blooms. The flower beds and patches shape the lawn into what looks like a huge, tranquil creature at rest. Just a step ahead, the grass is a seamless, glossy carpet: beneath your feet, the countless blades each have their own color, movement, and scent—just like when you enter a crowd that seemed like just a crowd and realize no two are the same.
On one side is the shrubbery, of all the hues of the kingdom of green. Underneath the shrubs the gloom is a presence. The interlacing branches are as the bars of its cage. You watch and watch—like children who have found the lion’s cage, but the lion invisible—until gradually, pleased and still awed, you see that the caged thing is—nothingness, in all its shadowy pomp and immeasurable power. Seated there, you could swear that the darkness was moving about, treading the boundaries. When I first saw it, it was a thing as new and strange as if I had seen the world before the sun, and withdrawing my eyes and looking at the fresh limes[Pg 424][Pg 423]
On one side is the bushy area, in every shade of green imaginable. Underneath the bushes, the darkness feels like a presence. The twisted branches are like the bars of its cage. You watch and watch—like kids who’ve found a lion’s cage, but the lion is nowhere to be seen—until slowly, feeling both pleased and still amazed, you realize that what's caged is—nothingness, with all its shadowy grandeur and immense power. Sitting there, you could swear that the darkness is moving around, testing its boundaries. When I first encountered it, it felt as new and strange as if I had seen the world before the sun, and when I looked away and then back at the fresh limes[Pg 424][Pg 423]

IN TRINITY COLLEGE GARDENS
At Trinity College Gardens
The wrought-iron gates, supported by noble piers, to the left of the picture, open immediately opposite Wadham College. The road between the College and the gates leads to the New Museum, the Parks, and Keble College. There is no entrance for the public through these gates.
The wrought-iron gates, held up by impressive pillars to the left of the picture, open directly across from Wadham College. The road that runs between the College and the gates leads to the New Museum, the Parks, and Keble College. No public entrance is allowed through these gates.
Some of the fine trees which adorn this eastern part of the gardens are shown.
Some of the beautiful trees that enhance this eastern section of the gardens are displayed.
was like beholding the light of the first dawn arriving at Eden. And in the evening that accumulated gloom raised the whole question between silence and speech, and did not answer it. The song of the blackbird is heard, cushioned among the sleepy cooings of doves. And when they cease, how fine is the silence! When they revive, how fine is the song! For the silence seems to appropriate and not to destroy the song. The blackbird, too, seems to appropriate and make much of the silence when he sings. The long meditations of the gowned and ungowned therein are not of less account because the only tangible result is the perfect beheading of dandelions as they walk to and fro.
was like witnessing the light of the first dawn breaking over Eden. And in the evening, that gathering darkness raised the whole issue between silence and speech, without providing an answer. The song of the blackbird can be heard, mingling with the sleepy cooing of doves. And when they stop, how beautiful is the silence! When they start up again, how lovely is the song! For silence seems to embrace rather than diminish the song. The blackbird, too, appears to embrace and make the most of the silence when he sings. The long reflections of those in robes and those not are still significant, even if the only visible outcome is the perfect uprooting of dandelions as they walk back and forth.
And that you come from Eden with swift steps. Is Eden far away, or are you hiding? From human thought, like hares, mice, and rabbits That run before the scythe and lie In the last ridge of the barley? Do our woods And winds and ponds cover more tranquil woods,
More sparkling winds, more star-reflecting ponds? Is Eden outside of time and space?
And do you come together around us when the pale light Glistening on the water and scattered among the leaves,
And winds blowing from flowers, and the buzz of feathers,
And has the peaceful greenery lifted your spirits?
Not often can the most academic dreamer see Faunus among those trees or Daphne in the laurel again.
Not often can the most scholarly dreamer spot Faunus among those trees or Daphne in the laurel again.
On the grass the shadows of the roof, and later, of a tree, make time an alluring toy. The shadow is cut in finer and sharper angles than the roofs make, in the rich, hazy, Oxford light.[Pg 428]
On the grass, the shadows from the roof, and later from a tree, turn time into an enticing plaything. The shadow is shaped in finer and sharper angles than the roofs create, in the rich, hazy light of Oxford.[Pg 428]
To walk round about the garden twice could not occupy an hour of the most tranquil or gouty human life, even if you stayed to see the toadflaxes and ferns in the wall, to note the shape of the trees, and admire how the changing sun patronises space after space of the college buildings. Yet no maze or boundless moor could give a greater pleasure of seclusion and security. Not in vain has it served many academic generations as a sweet and melodious ante-chamber of the unseen. For, as an old book grows the richer to the wise reader, for the porings of its dead owners in past years, so these trees and this lawn have been enriched. Their roots are deep in more than earth. Their crests traffic with more than the doves and the blue air. There is surely no other garden so fit to accompany the reading of Comus or the Æneid. They become domesticated in the heart amidst these propitious shades. But not many bring books under the trees; nor are they unwise who are contented to translate what silence says. The many-coloured undergraduate lounges there with another of his kind, and may perhaps encounter the shade of some “buck” or “smart” of old, who will set a stamp of antiquity on his glories. Choleric old—— walks there sometimes; but either a caterpillar falls, or the leaves turn over and unburden themselves of their rain; and he comes back, loudly thinking that, if a covered cloister had been in the place of the trees, he would not have lost a very ingenious thread of reflection about the greatest good of the greatest number. [Pg 430][Pg 429]And—— goes there after a college meeting, and
To walk around the garden twice couldn't take up an hour of even the most relaxed or gouty person's life, even if you lingered to admire the toadflaxes and ferns in the wall, to notice the shapes of the trees, and to appreciate how the shifting sunlight highlights different areas of the college buildings. Yet no maze or endless moor could offer more joy in terms of seclusion and safety. It has served many academic generations as a lovely and harmonious entryway to the unseen. Just as an old book becomes richer for the wise reader by the reflections of its previous owners over the years, these trees and this lawn have also been enhanced. Their roots extend deep beyond just the soil. Their branches connect with more than just doves and the blue sky. There’s certainly no other garden better suited for reading Comus or the Æneid. They feel at home in the heart among these favorable shades. However, not many people bring books under these trees; those who are happy to interpret what silence conveys aren't foolish either. The colorful undergraduates lounge there with another fellow student and might just encounter the spirit of some past "buck" or "smart" who adds a touch of history to their achievements. Sometimes, an irritable old man walks there; but either a caterpillar drops down, or the leaves flip over to shed their rain; and he returns, loudly thinking that if a covered cloister had replaced the trees, he wouldn't have lost a very clever train of thought about the greatest good for the greatest number. [Pg 430][Pg 429]And—— goes there after a college meeting, and

FELLOWS’ GARDEN, EXETER COLLEGE
Fellows' Garden, Exeter College
On the extreme left of the picture is part of the two-storeyed Library of the College, built in 1856. Farther on is the south end of the lobby to the Divinity School (“Pig Market,” see other picture), at the base of which are some steps, leading to an earthen embankment overlooking Radcliffe Square.
On the far left of the image is a section of the two-story College Library, built in 1856. Further along is the southern end of the lobby to the Divinity School (“Pig Market,” see other picture), at the bottom of which are some steps leading to an earthen embankment that overlooks Radcliffe Square.
Bishop Heber’s tree is planted at the south-east corner of this embankment (see other picture), and shows between the aged acacia tree and the dome of the Radcliffe Library, which appears to the extreme right of the painting.
Bishop Heber’s tree is planted at the southeast corner of this embankment (see other picture) and is positioned between the old acacia tree and the dome of the Radcliffe Library, which is on the far right of the painting.
A group of Fellows are seated under the acacia, probably resting after playing bowls.
A group of friends is sitting under the acacia, likely taking a break after playing bowls.
changes his mind. The merry breakfaster finds that a turn among the trees will add the button-hole to his complacency. The grave young scholar, with his gown almost to his heels, and the older one whose gown and cap resemble nothing that is worn by any save a tramp, meet there on summer evenings. The freshman gives the highest colour and purest atmosphere to his prophetic imaginings when he walks there first. One says that the garden is partly a confessor and partly an aunt. Above all, it is the resort of those who are about to leave Oxford for ever; and under its influence those who have forgotten all their ambitions, and those who are beginning to remember them, meet on some June or October afternoon, to decide that it has been worth while; and between the trees the college has a half-domestic, half-monastic air; all else is quite shut out, except where, like a curve of smoke, a dome rises, and the wraith of a spire among the clouds.[Pg 435][Pg 434]
changes his mind. The cheerful breakfast eater realizes that a walk among the trees adds to his contentment. The serious young scholar, in a gown that nearly touches his heels, and the older one, whose gown and cap look like something a vagrant would wear, often meet there on summer evenings. The freshman experiences the deepest emotions and freshest perspective for his hopeful dreams when he first strolls there. Some say the garden is partly a confessor and partly an aunt. Above all, it’s a hangout for those who are about to leave Oxford for good; and under its influence, those who have forgotten all their dreams, and those who are just starting to remember them, gather on some June or October afternoon to affirm that it has all been worthwhile; and among the trees, the college has a half-homey, half-religious atmosphere; everything else feels completely distant, except where, like a wisp of smoke, a dome rises and the ghost of a spire appears among the clouds.[Pg 435][Pg 434]
OLD OXFORD DAYS
CHAPTER VIII
OLD OXFORD DAYS
The history of a college like New or Wadham is written clearly on its walls. It rose by one grand effort, from one grand conception, at the will of founder and architect. All its future uses were more or less plainly implied in the quadrangles, chapel, and hall, through which the opening procession marched with solemn music; they stood in need of little more than time and good fortune. Such a college was then in a sense mature, fully armed and equipped, before the founder’s decease.
The history of a college like New or Wadham is clearly visible on its walls. It emerged from a single grand vision, driven by the intentions of its founder and architect. All its future purposes were more or less hinted at in the quadrangles, chapel, and hall, where the opening procession moved with solemn music; they needed little more than time and a bit of luck. Such a college was, in a way, already mature, fully prepared and ready, even before the founder passed away.
But it was more characteristic of an Oxford college to be evolved irregularly, by strange and difficult ways, with much sudden expansion and decline, into its present state. Thus Lincoln and Oriel were, for a short time after their foundation, fallow, if not extinct. The latter, in spite of its renovation by a king, after whom it was at first inclined to be named, grew up around the humble, illustrious tenement of La Oriole, where its early scholars dwelt, and whence they gave their society its lasting name. That[Pg 438] cradling tenement has its parallel in many a college history.
But it was more typical for an Oxford college to develop in an irregular manner, going through strange and challenging paths, with a lot of sudden growth and decline, to reach its current state. For instance, Lincoln and Oriel were, for a brief period after they were founded, dormant, if not completely gone. Oriel, despite being revived by a king, after whom it was initially set to be named, grew around the modest, notable building of La Oriole, where its early scholars lived, and from which they gave the society its enduring name. That[Pg 438] foundational building can be seen in the history of many colleges.
In the thirteenth or fourteenth century some Oxford citizen would build a pair of cottages, where a carpenter and an innkeeper came to live. At the inrush of students to welcome a famous lecturer, the spare rooms of those cottages received their share. Some of the lodgers stayed on, liked the carpenter and his wife and family, with whom they lived on terms of social equality; and in a generation the tradition of entertaining scholars was established. A few years saw the formation of a colony of students from one countryside or great estate. As the custom was, they chose a superior from among their number. In those days, if an American had run upstairs to the head, he might have had a more satisfactory answer than he had yesterday to his command: “I’ve come to take rooms in your college!” for the hostel was, roughly speaking, an hotel. The members fought side by side in the battles of the nations (viz. Northerners, Southerners, etc.), and of town and gown. They bent over the same books. They sang the same songs. And together they came to love the place, the two cottages and those adjacent into which they had overflowed. Such a group fled from the ancient Brasenose Hall to Stamford, in one of the University migrations, in 1334; carried with them the knocker of their lodgings in the shape of a brazen nose, and fixed it to the door of their “Brasenose Hall in Stamford.” If they forgot to take it back on their return, it nevertheless “got perched upon the top of the pineal gland” of[Pg 439] the college brain; and with characteristic spirited piety the descendants of the old hall-men found it out in 1890, and hung it in a place of honour and safety.
In the 13th or 14th century, a resident of Oxford built a couple of cottages where a carpenter and an innkeeper lived. When students flocked to see a famous lecturer, the extra rooms in those cottages filled up. Some of the lodgers decided to stay, bonding with the carpenter, his wife, and their family, living together as equals. Over time, a tradition of hosting scholars was born. In just a few years, a community of students from one area or estate formed. As was customary, they picked a leader from among themselves. Back then, if an American had rushed upstairs to the head, he might have received a more satisfying response than yesterday’s “I’ve come to take rooms in your college!” because the hostel was essentially like a hotel. Members stood together in the struggles of nations (like Northerners versus Southerners) and in the town versus gown conflicts. They studied from the same books, sang the same songs, and together came to cherish their place, the two cottages, and the nearby ones they overflowed into. This group fled from the old Brasenose Hall to Stamford during one of the University migrations in 1334 and took with them a knocker shaped like a brazen nose, which they fixed to the door of their “Brasenose Hall in Stamford.” If they forgot to bring it back, it still found its way to the “pineal gland” of the college brain; and with characteristic spirited dedication, the descendants of the old hall members rediscovered it in 1890 and displayed it in a place of honor and safety.
In later life one of the carpenter’s tenants became a bishop, or a royal almoner. Either at the height of his fame and wealth, or on his deathbed, he would remember his old retreat, and its associations with law and Aristotle and
In later life, one of the carpenter's tenants became a bishop or a royal almoner. Whether at the peak of his fame and wealth or on his deathbed, he would think back to his old retreat and its connections with law and Aristotle and
There his old friends or their successors still dwelt, and learned and taught and fought. So he gave money for the purchase of the cottages; a neighbouring garden plot, perhaps a strip of woodland outside the walls, and the rents of some home farms for the revenue; together with the advowson of a church—if possible the one which he remembered best in Oxford, or if not, then one within his diocese or influence. He sketched the statutes, which fixed the number of the scholars and the rules for electing new ones and a head. He himself chose the first head. The scholars were to remain unmarried and in residence; to study the Arts, or Theology, or Canon and Civil Law; and to pray for his soul.
There, his old friends or their successors still lived, learned, taught, and fought. So he paid for the cottages, a nearby garden plot, maybe a piece of woodland outside the walls, and the rents from some local farms for income; along with the right to appoint a church—ideally the one he remembered best in Oxford, or if not, then one within his diocese or influence. He outlined the rules, which set the number of scholars and the process for electing new ones and a head. He personally chose the first head. The scholars were to stay unmarried and live there; study the Arts, Theology, or Canon and Civil Law; and pray for his soul.
The carpenter’s and innkeeper’s tenants found themselves suddenly powerful and rich. They had their own seal, and a new and more settled enthusiasm, and a diapason of duties and ceremonies, added to their life. They had their aisle in the church whose shadow reached them on summer evenings. If their estates were[Pg 440] large and well managed,—if the country was prosperous, and the head obeyed the statutes and the fellows the head,—their progress was swift. Perhaps a legal difficulty interposed delay, or their rents disappeared. Perhaps the fellows quarrelled with the head, or the discipline was such that the fellows climbed into college at late unstatutable hours and became a scandal in the University. But a descendant or neighbour of the founder, or a parishioner of the college living, came to their help. One gave a present, in order that he might be remembered in the college prayers: another sent books: a former fellow who was grateful or pitiful made a rich benefaction when he went to court. Already the little original tenements were tottering or too small. They must build and rebuild. Then a “second founder” adopted as his children that and all succeeding generations of scholars, who should praise him for a benefaction larger than the first.
The carpenter's and innkeeper's tenants suddenly found themselves powerful and wealthy. They had their own seal, a new and more established excitement, and a range of duties and ceremonies that enriched their lives. They had their pew in the church, and its shadow welcomed them on summer evenings. If their estates were[Pg 440] large and well-managed—if the area was thriving, and the leader followed the rules while the others respected him—their progress was rapid. Sometimes a legal issue would cause delays, or their rents might vanish. Other times the members would conflict with the leader, or the rules were strict enough that the members would sneak into college at late hours, causing scandals at the University. But a descendant or nearby associate of the founder, or a local parishioner, would often come to their aid. One would give a donation to be included in college prayers, another would send books, and a former member who felt grateful or sympathetic might make a generous contribution when they visited the court. The original small properties were already unstable or too cramped. They needed to build and rebuild. Then a “second founder” took on the responsibility for that generation and all future groups of scholars, who would honor him for a contribution larger than the first.
They pull down the old buildings, all save a flanking wall with a gateway to their taste, and begin to build. The benefactor sends teams of oxen to carry wood and stone. They are quarrying at Eynsham and Headington, and in the benefactor’s own distant county. They are felling oaks at Cumnor or Nuneham, actually before the bronzed foliage has crisped to brown. All day the oxen come and go: on the river, the boats are carrying stone, slates, and wood, unless the frost binds the barges among the reeds and the foundation soil breaks the spade. The master mason has already roughly hewn a statue of the patron saint or the founder, or his[Pg 442][Pg 441]
They tear down the old buildings, leaving just a side wall with a gateway designed to their liking, and start constructing. The benefactor sends teams of oxen to transport wood and stone. They're extracting materials at Eynsham and Headington, and from the benefactor’s own far-off county. They're cutting down oaks at Cumnor or Nuneham, even before the golden leaves have turned to brown. All day long, the oxen are coming and going: on the river, boats are hauling stone, slates, and wood, unless the frost traps the barges among the reeds and the foundation soil breaks the spade. The master mason has already roughly carved a statue of the patron saint or the founder, or his[Pg 442][Pg 441]

THE LIBRARY, ORIEL COLLEGE
Oriel College Library
Across the picture, opposite the spectator, appears the Library, a dignified building of the Ionic order of architecture, designed by James Wyatt about 1788. It occupies the northern side of the inner quadrangle.
Across the picture, facing the viewer, stands the Library, an elegant building in the Ionic style, created by James Wyatt around 1788. It is located on the northern side of the inner quadrangle.
On the ground floor, in the rusticated “basement” upon which the Library stands, are the Common Rooms of the College.
On the ground floor, in the rustic "basement" where the Library is situated, are the Common Rooms of the College.
The time is late afternoon in summer.
The time is late afternoon in summer.
rebus and coat of arms. He has decided that the old doorway shall be the entrance to the college kitchen, lying far back in the main quadrangle, which will not only take in the site of the demolished buildings, but the neighbouring garden and a lane that could be spared. If he is unfortunate, he may have to stop when he has completed only the entrance, with the head’s lodgings vigilant above it, and a few sets of rooms adjacent on either side, already occupied. If all is well, in a few years, or perhaps at the end of the mason’s life, the shining whole is the admiration of Oxford. The bishop who is to consecrate the chapel comes informally to see it a few days beforehand, and is therefore able to restrain his wonder when he comes pompously with the chancellor and all the great names of the University. The chapel and hall face the entrance. All round are the dwelling rooms, on two storeys, if we count the long-untenanted attics. On one side alone there is twice the space of the old cottages; but the arrangement is the same—the rooms branching on the left and right from a staircase that rises from ground to attic. The library is on a first floor: on one side of it, the windows invite the earliest light,
rebus and coat of arms. He has decided that the old doorway will be the entrance to the college kitchen, located deep in the main quadrangle. This will encompass the space of the demolished buildings, the nearby garden, and a lane that can be cleared. If luck isn't on his side, he might have to stop after completing just the entrance, with the head’s lodgings looking down on it, and a few rooms on either side already occupied. If everything goes well, in a few years—or perhaps by the time the mason finishes—the completed building will be admired throughout Oxford. The bishop who will consecrate the chapel visits informally a few days before, allowing him to contain his surprise when he arrives ceremoniously with the chancellor and other prominent figures of the University. The chapel and hall face the entrance. Surrounding them are the living quarters, arranged over two stories, including the long-empty attics. On one side alone, there’s twice the space of the old cottages, but the layout is the same—rooms branching left and right from a staircase that rises from the ground to the attic. The library is on the first floor: on one side, its windows welcome the early morning light,
on the other, they enable the late student, who cannot buy light, to read until the martins cast no shadow as they pass in June: and there they put the gorgeous Latin poets and missals, embroidered with colours like[Pg 446] the bank of a brook, and along with them the dull works of a benefactor, in that very corner where the spider loves them to-day. The fellow who loves sleep will not choose the eastward-facing, library side of the quad. But they have made it almost impossible for him to oversleep himself. For in a humbler truckle-bed a younger scholar sleeps near him. Some rooms contain three beds side by side. Leading out of this dormitory are little cupboards or studies, sometimes under lock and key, for solitary work. Most of the walls are ungarnished; a few are hung with coloured cloth or even frescoed. The furniture is simple and scanty. The hall itself has but a “green hanging of say,” a high table for the seniors, and two pairs of forms and tables on trestles for the juniors. The kitchen is more opulent, with its tall andirons, chopping-board, trivet, gridiron, spit, and great pot and chafer of brass, its pans, dishes, and platters; while in the buttery there are four barrels abroach. Now and then an old member or admirer of the society sends a group of silver vessels: the most honoured becomes the loving cup that circulates on gaudy days; and with it goes some significant toast, as the jus suum cuique at Magdalen accompanies the “Restoration cup,” on which the names of James II.’s ejected fellows are engraved. For while the college grows, and sends its just proportion of astute or learned men into the world, it flowers with customs and traditions—prayers in the chapel, festivals in the hall,—the Christmas boar’s head decorated with banners at Queen’s,—the ancestral vine at Lincoln. At dinner[Pg 448][Pg 447]
on the other hand, they allow the late student, who can’t afford light, to read until the swallows cast no shadow as they pass in June: and there they display the beautiful Latin poets and missals, decorated with colors like[Pg 446] the bank of a stream, along with the dull works of a benefactor, in that very corner where the spider enjoys them today. The guy who loves to sleep won’t pick the east-facing side of the library in the quad. But they’ve made it nearly impossible for him to sleep in. Because in a simple lower bunk, a younger scholar sleeps nearby. Some rooms have three beds lined up side by side. Leading out of this dormitory are little cupboards or studies, sometimes locked, for solitary work. Most of the walls are bare; a few are adorned with colored cloth or even frescoes. The furniture is basic and minimal. The hall itself has just a “green hanging of say,” a high table for the seniors, and two pairs of benches and tables on trestles for the juniors. The kitchen is more lavish, with its tall andirons, chopping board, trivet, gridiron, spit, and big pot and chafer made of brass, along with its pans, dishes, and platters; while in the buttery there are four barrels tapped. Occasionally an old member or supporter of the society sends a set of silver vessels: the most prestigious one becomes the loving cup that gets passed around on festive days; along with it goes some important toast, like the jus suum cuique at Magdalen accompanying the “Restoration cup,” which has the names of James II’s ousted fellows engraved on it. As the college grows and sends its fair share of clever or learned individuals into the world, it thrives with customs and traditions—prayers in the chapel, celebrations in the hall—the Christmas boar’s head adorned with banners at Queen’s—the ancestral vine at Lincoln. At dinner[Pg 448][Pg 447]

MAGDALEN COLLEGE TOWER FROM THE MEADOWS
MAGDALEN COLLEGE TOWER FROM THE MEADOWS
To the left of the picture appear those noble black poplars of which Oxford is justly proud. The College tower is seen between them and another group of trees, Magdalen Bridge and the elms in the “Grove” finishing to the extreme right.
To the left of the picture are the impressive black poplars that Oxford is rightly proud of. You can see the College tower peeking out between them and another group of trees, while Magdalen Bridge and the elms in the “Grove” stretch out to the far right.
The time is late afternoon.
It's late afternoon.
the tables shine with flagons and tankards, and great “sprig salts” of silver plate, which were the main college investment, the pledges of affection, or, as at Wadham, the customary gift of those who were admitted to the dignity of the high table. The shining of most was put out for ever in Charles I.’s melting-pot at New Inn Hall; and only the lists survive, each tankard and ewer and candlestick described by its donor’s name.
the tables gleam with pitchers and mugs, and large silver “sprig salts,” which were the primary investment of the college, tokens of affection, or, like at Wadham, the traditional gift from those honored with a place at the high table. Most of the shining pieces were permanently lost in Charles I’s melting pot at New Inn Hall; only the records remain, with each tankard, pitcher, and candlestick listed by the name of its donor.
Thus, by the fact of their coming from neighbour villages and towns, perhaps also from one school, to a home on which they depended for their learning and the necessities of life, the fellows and scholars became knit together, with noticeable characteristics and peculiarities—almost a family resemblance; and in religious or political difficulties they made a solid strength of opinion and influence. A little heresy might break out under Henry the Eighth or Mary. A great benefaction might encourage the building of another quadrangle or a new library, and the institution of more fellowships and scholarships. They contributed a handsome quantity of plate to the king, and an officer to his army; or, to a man, resisted the Puritan intrusion after his death. Such were the more conspicuous events of centuries. The conflicts in the University, according to some proverbial Latin verses, were in early times at least as important as the boat race to-day. They were a subtle measure of the state of parties and movements; and in these the college played its part. And when the days of fighting were over, there was the University lampoon: “These[Pg 452] paltry scholars,” says an old ballad, supposed to be addressed by an Oxford alderman to the Duke of Monmouth,—
Thus, since they came from nearby villages and towns, and maybe even from the same school, the students and scholars became closely connected through their reliance on the home for their education and basic needs. This connection fostered noticeable traits and quirks—almost like a family resemblance. In times of religious or political challenges, they formed a strong consensus and influence. A little bit of heresy might arise during the reign of Henry the Eighth or Mary. A generous donation could inspire the construction of another quad or a new library, along with the establishment of more fellowships and scholarships. They gave a significant amount of silver to the king and provided an officer for his army; or, every one of them, stood against the Puritan incursion after his death. These were some of the most notable events over the centuries. The University conflicts, according to some well-known Latin verses, were at least as significant as today's boat race in earlier times. They were a subtle gauge of the state of different factions and movements, with the college playing its role in these events. And when the fighting was over, there was the University satire: “These[Pg 452] petty scholars,” says an old ballad, thought to be directed from an Oxford alderman to the Duke of Monmouth,—
Or they’ll rhyme your Grace and us to death.
The college was busy in sending out into the world of Church and State its more vigorous members—those who excelled in the age when examinations were disputations that sometimes became almost a form of athletic sport; and in keeping within its walls the quieter spirits, who were willing to spend a life among manuscripts, in perfecting the management of the college estates, or in the education and discipline of others. From a scholarship to a fellowship, and from a fellowship to a college living, were frequently made the very calmest windings to a happy decent age, though no doubt the last stage sometimes led to such a regret as this:—
The college was busy sending its more energetic members out into the world of Church and State—those who stood out in an era when exams were debates that sometimes turned into almost a competitive sport; and keeping within its walls the quieter individuals, who were content to spend their lives among manuscripts, perfecting the management of the college's estates, or educating and training others. The journey from a scholarship to a fellowship, and from a fellowship to a college position, often provided the smoothest path to a fulfilling old age, though no doubt the final stage sometimes led to regrets like this:—
Come back, oh Days! when endless joy I found it in Reading or in Leisure!
When things are peaceful in the Common Room
I enjoyed the aroma of my daily pipe! Rode to check on my stomach and inspected, At Annual Bottlings, chosen corks:
And dined untaxed, untroubled, under The portrait of our devoted founder!
It was a fine thing to sit day after day, in rooms sweetened, as in Burton’s day, with juniper, or in the college library, which was as a bay or river mouth leading into the very land of silence—to sit and write, or not write, as you pleased; and, in the days when[Pg 453] books were no longer shelved with their faces to the wall, look up at
It was great to sit day after day in rooms filled with the scent of juniper, like in Burton’s time, or in the college library, which felt like a bay or river mouth opening into a land of silence—to sit and write, or not write, as you wanted; and in those days when[Pg 453] books weren't just lined up with their spines facing the wall, look up at
printed in gold upon the glowing calf, and making mystical combinations as night came on. There, and in hall, chapel, study, and garden, men doomed to very diverse fates and stations went and still go, and found it possible to live a more enchanted life than anywhere else.
printed in gold upon the glowing calf, and making mystical combinations as night fell. There, and in the hall, chapel, study, and garden, men destined for very different fates and positions went and still go, and found it possible to live a more enchanted life than anywhere else.
The refractory Headington stone crumbled, and while the classical buildings became yearly less handsome than when the masons left them, the Gothic gained by the rich inlay and delicate waste of weather and time. As if time and weather wrote the chronicles of the society, the walls came to have a singular influence upon each generation, and gave them, as it were, a common ancestry and blood—noble blood, for all. Even when they departed they had the irrefragable right of exiles to look back and salute.
The durable Headington stone crumbled, and while the classic buildings became less attractive each year than when the masons finished them, the Gothic architecture benefited from the intricate inlay and gentle decay brought by weather and time. It was as if time and the elements recorded the history of society; the walls started to have a unique impact on each generation, giving them a sense of shared heritage and identity—noble heritage, at that. Even when they left, they had the undeniable right of exiles to look back and pay their respects.
And yet how different the life within those walls which some now living can remember! Sixty years ago, they lament, “no man was ever seen in the streets of Oxford after lunch without being dressed as he would have been in Pall Mall.” Charles Reade at Magdalen “created a panic even among the junior members” by wearing a green coat and brass buttons, as Dean of Arts. Sixty years before that, George Colman had matriculated in a grass-green coat, “with the furiously bepowdered pate of an ultra coxcomb.” And now, says the first-quoted authority, “shooting-[Pg 454]jackets of all patterns, in which it is not given to every man to look like a gentleman,” have taken the place of frock-coat, tall hat, and gloves, “in which every one looked well.” The change from knee-breeches to trousers early last century was made possible by the gross lenience of a proctor.
And yet how different life was inside those walls that some still alive can remember! Sixty years ago, they sigh, “no man was ever seen in the streets of Oxford after lunch without dressing like he would have in Pall Mall.” Charles Reade at Magdalen “caused a stir even among the younger members” by wearing a green coat with brass buttons as the Dean of Arts. Sixty years before that, George Colman started in a grass-green coat, “with the ridiculously powdered head of an extreme dandy.” And now, says the first-quoted source, “shooting jackets of all styles, which not everyone can pull off like a gentleman,” have replaced frock coats, top hats, and gloves, “which suited everyone well.” The shift from knee-breeches to trousers early last century was made possible by the leniency of a proctor.
Without college or university games, the old Oxford day was very much unlike our own. Bonfires of celebration, almost alone among modern amusements, are of great antiquity, in street and quad. A hundred years ago the man who would now row or play cricket for his college, was hunting, or pole-jumping across the fields; or, if he was original, he took the long walks which were popular a few generations ago, but are now so exceptional that I know nobody who ever saw, and recognised, Matthew Arnold’s tree, though some are lazily inclined to believe that it is the one elm that dwells with the seven firs on Cumnor Hurst.
Without college or university games, the old Oxford day was very different from ours. Bonfires of celebration, almost unique among modern entertainments, have a long history, in the streets and quads. A hundred years ago, the man who would now row or play cricket for his college was hunting or pole-vaulting across the fields; or, if he was unconventional, he took the long walks that were popular a few generations ago but are now so rare that I don’t know anyone who has ever seen and recognized Matthew Arnold’s tree, although some are lazily inclined to think that it’s the single elm that stands with the seven firs on Cumnor Hurst.
One of the few college games was confined to the fives courts, which lay within the walls and have long disappeared, and are inconceivable to-day, when competition and spectators on ground remote from the colleges are characteristic of Oxford sport. Earlier still, a form of college game was the “vile and horrid sport” of forcibly shaving those who were about to become Masters of Arts, and the “tucking” (i.e. scratching on the chin with the thumb nail) of freshmen, which the first Earl of Shaftesbury put down at Exeter. These customs cast but a feeble shadow to-day in the occasional solemnity of trimming a contemporar[Pg 455]y’s exuberant or ill-kept hair. A more appropriate form of celebrating the taking of degrees was an elaborate supper, which is now less often possible, when a man frequently takes his degree in solitude and leaves Oxford immediately. William Paston, in the fifteenth century, writes, that he was made bachelor on a Friday and had his feast on the Monday following. He was promised a gift of venison, and though disappointed, his guests “were pleased with such meat as they had.” Even William of Wykeham, who forbade every possible game to his scholars at New, and would not allow the post-prandial leisure to be spent on ordinary days around the fire in the middle of his great hall, provided that, after supper, “on festivals and other winter nights, on which, in honour of God, his Mother, or some other saint,” there is a fire in the hall, the fellows might indulge in singing or reading “poems, chronicles of the realm, and the wonders of the world.” Some of the college halls preserved their old central fireplaces, under a louvre, until early in the last century. While the fellows dined, a servitor stood there, and read aloud from the Bible, in the first days of the college; or, as at Trinity in 1792, recited a passage from Homer or Virgil or Milton. Southey records it as a rule, that every member of the University could go by right once a year to Balliol hall, and “be treated with bread and cheese and beer, and all on condition that, when called upon, he should either sing a song or tell a story.” Those who were unqualified doubtless stayed away. Yet there is little sign that the[Pg 456] temperate or secluded undergraduate suffered for his gifts. Whitefield himself, who cost his relatives £24 for his first three years, and wore “woollen gloves, a patched gown, and dirty shoes,” says that the other men left him alone when “he became better than other people,” as a “singular odd fellow,” at Pembroke. There was, however, one custom which must have left such men with a sore memory. For the “fresh night” was long the common doom of men soon after entering the University. There were fires of charcoal in the hall on All Saints’ eve, All Saints’ day and night, and onwards to Christmas day and Candlemas day; and the freshmen were brought in before an assembly of their seniors among the undergraduates. Anthony à Wood describes the ordeal thus:—
One of the few college games took place on the fives courts, which were once within the walls but have since vanished and are hard to imagine today, when competition and spectators away from the colleges are typical of Oxford sports. Even earlier, a form of college game was the “vile and horrid sport” of forcibly shaving those who were about to become Masters of Arts, as well as the “tucking” (i.e., scratching on the chin with the thumbnail) of freshmen, which the first Earl of Shaftesbury abolished at Exeter. These customs have faded into a faint echo today, only appearing occasionally in the serious act of trimming a contemporary’s wild or unkempt hair. A more fitting way to celebrate earning degrees was to have a lavish supper, which is now less common, as many graduates often leave Oxford immediately after receiving their degree. William Paston, in the fifteenth century, noted that he became a bachelor on a Friday and had his feast the following Monday. He was promised a gift of venison, and although he was disappointed, his guests “were pleased with such meat as they had.” Even William of Wykeham, who banned all games for his students at New and wouldn’t allow the post-meal leisure to be spent on ordinary days around the fire in his grand hall, allowed that, after supper, “on festivals and other winter nights, when, in honor of God, his Mother, or some other saint,” there would be a fire in the hall, and the fellows could enjoy singing or reading “poems, chronicles of the realm, and the wonders of the world.” Some college halls maintained their old central fireplaces, under a louvre, until the early part of the last century. While the fellows dined, a servitor stood there, reading aloud from the Bible during the early days of the college; or, as at Trinity in 1792, reciting a passage from Homer, Virgil, or Milton. Southey recorded that every member of the University had the right to go once a year to Balliol hall, where they would be served bread, cheese, and beer, on the condition that, when called upon, they had to sing a song or tell a story. Those who weren’t up to it likely stayed away. Still, there’s little evidence that the temperate or reclusive undergraduate suffered for their talents. Whitefield himself, who cost his relatives £24 for his first three years and wore “woollen gloves, a patched gown, and dirty shoes,” claimed that the other men left him alone once “he became better than other people,” as a “singular odd fellow,” at Pembroke. However, there was one tradition that must have left those men with harsh memories. The “fresh night” was for a long time a common ordeal for newcomers to the University. Charcoal fires burned in the hall on All Saints’ eve, All Saints’ day and night, and up to Christmas day and Candlemas day; and freshmen were brought before an assembly of their upperclassmen. Anthony à Wood describes the ritual this way:—
“On Candlemas day, or before, every freshman had warning given him to provide his speech, to be spoken in the public hall before the undergraduates and servants on Shrove Tuesday night that followed, being always the time for the observation of that ceremony.
“On Candlemas Day, or earlier, every freshman was notified to prepare his speech, to be delivered in the public hall before the undergraduates and staff on Shrove Tuesday night that followed, as this was the usual time for that ceremony.”
“Feb. 15, 164⅞, Shrove Tuesday, the fire being made in the common hall before five of the clock at night, the fellows would go to supper before six, and making an end sooner than at other times, they left the hall to the liberty of the undergraduates, but with an admonition from one of the fellows (who was then principal of the undergraduates and postmasters [at Merton]) that all things should be carried in good order. While they were at supper in the hall, the cook (Will Noble) was making the lesser of the brass pots full of cawdel at the[Pg 458][Pg 457]
“Feb. 15, 164⅞, Shrove Tuesday, the fire was lit in the common hall before five o’clock in the evening. The fellows would have supper before six, and finishing earlier than usual, they left the hall open for the undergraduates, but with a warning from one of the fellows (who was the head of the undergraduates and postmasters [at Merton]) that everything should be done properly. While they were having supper in the hall, the cook (Will Noble) was preparing the smaller of the brass pots full of cawdel at the[Pg 458][Pg 457]

THE CLOISTERS, NEW COLLEGE
The Cloisters, New College
The great west window of the College Chapel shows above the Cloisters to the east. The window was painted from designs made by Sir Joshua Reynolds.
The large west window of the College Chapel is located above the Cloisters to the east. The window was painted based on designs created by Sir Joshua Reynolds.
To the right of the drawing is the picturesque group of the Warden’s Lodgings.
To the right of the drawing is the charming group of the Warden’s Lodgings.
The area of the Cloisters was consecrated as a private burial-place for the College, 19th October 1400.
The Cloisters area was dedicated as a private burial place for the College on October 19, 1400.
freshmen’s charge; which, after the hall was free from the fellows, was brought up and set before the fire in the said hall. Afterwards every freshman, according to seniority, was to pluck off his gown and band, and if possible make himself look like a scoundrel. This done, they were conducted each after the other to the high table, and there made to stand on a form placed thereon: from whence they were to speak their speech with an audible voice to the company; which if well done, the person that spoke it was to have a cup of caudle and no salted drink; if indifferently, some caudle and some salted drink; but if dull, nothing was given to him but salted drink, or salt put in college beer, with tucks to boot. Afterwards when they were to be admitted into the fraternity, the senior cook was to administer to them an oath over an old shoe. After which, spoken with gravity, the freshman kissed the shoe, put on his gown and band, and took his place among the seniors.”
freshmen’s initiation; which, after the hall was cleared of the others, was brought up and set before the fire in that same hall. Then each freshman, in order of seniority, would take off his gown and band, trying to look as scruffy as possible. Once this was done, they would be led one by one to the high table and made to stand on a bench placed there: from which they were to deliver their speech clearly to the group; if done well, the speaker would receive a cup of warm drink and no salty beverage; if done just okay, some warm drink and some salty beverage; but if poorly, they would get nothing but salty drink, or salt added to their beer, plus some rough treatment. Later, when they were to be admitted into the brotherhood, the senior cook would administer an oath over an old shoe. After this, spoken with seriousness, the freshman would kiss the shoe, put on his gown and band, and take his place among the seniors.
Wood himself not only earned pure caudle, but sack as well, with an oration in this vein:—
Wood himself not only earned pure caudle, but also sack, with a speech like this:—
“Most reverend Seniors,—May it please your Gravities to admit into your presence a kitten of the Muses, and a meer frog of Helicon to croak the cataracts of his plumbeous cerebrosity before your sagacious ingenuities. I am none of the University blood-hounds that seek for preferment, and whose noses are as acute as their ears, that lie perdue for places, and who, good saints! do groan till the Visitation comes. These are they that esteem a tavern as[Pg 462] bad as purgatory, and wine more superstitious than holy water; and therefore I hope this honourable convocation will not suffer one of that tribe to taste of the sack, lest they should be troubled with a vertigo and their heads turn round.”
“Most respected Seniors,—I hope you will allow a kitten of the Muses and a mere frog from Helicon to express the depths of his heavy thoughts before your wise minds. I’m not one of those University bloodhounds who seek advancement, whose noses are as sharp as their ears, lying in wait for positions, and who, good heavens! groan until the Visitation arrives. These are the ones who consider a tavern as[Pg 462] bad as purgatory, and wine more mysterious than holy water; so I hope this esteemed gathering won’t let someone from that group taste the sack, lest they be troubled with dizziness and their heads spin round.”
Except at such a special season as that, the old Oxford day bore more resemblance than our own to the life elsewhere. The fashions in cards and dress were the same as in London; the outdoor amusements were those of other town or country gentlemen. There was horse-racing at Spurton Hill and Brackley, cock-fighting at Holywell. Edgeworth’s contemporaries attended the assizes, and interfered on behalf of justice, in spite of sheriff and judge. Anthony à Wood went to fish at Wheatley Bridge, and “nutted at Shotover by the way.” And early rising was a tradition in every college until last century. The undergraduate, who to-day lives on historical principles, is often later than his sixteenth-century original was to dine, when he sits at his breakfast of steak and XX in a fine old room. Chapel at six o’clock and a lecture at seven was a common doom. Shelley and Hogg, after their days spent in shooting at a mark, and making ducks and drakes and paper boats at a Shotover pond, sat up, indeed, until two, over their conversations on literature and chemistry, but rose at seven, because it was customary. While dinner was at ten or eleven, breakfast was an informal meal. Some attempted to do without it: hence a morning preacher swooned on the altar steps. Wood speaks of the juniors “at breakfast in hall” in[Pg 463] 1661. The majority took beer and bread from the buttery, and probably taking it in one another’s rooms, started the genial custom of breakfast parties, which was perfected early in the nineteenth century. “Let the tender swain,” says the well-spiced Oxford Sausage, a mid-eighteenth-century product of Oxford (and Cambridge) wits,—
Except during special occasions like that, the old Oxford day resembled life elsewhere more than it does today. The trends in cards and fashion were the same as in London; outdoor activities mirrored those of other town or country gentlemen. There was horse racing at Spurton Hill and Brackley, and cockfighting at Holywell. Edgeworth’s peers attended the court sessions and advocated for justice, despite the sheriff and judge. Anthony à Wood would go fishing at Wheatley Bridge and “nutted at Shotover by the way.” Early rising was a tradition in every college until last century. The undergraduate today, who relies on historical principles, often dines later than his sixteenth-century counterpart did when he sits down for his breakfast of steak and XX in a beautiful old room. Chapel at six o’clock and lectures at seven were a common fate. Shelley and Hogg, after spending their days shooting at a target and making ducks and drakes and paper boats at a Shotover pond, sat up until two, engrossed in discussions about literature and chemistry, but still got up at seven because it was the custom. While dinner was served at ten or eleven, breakfast was a casual meal. Some tried to skip it altogether, leading to a morning preacher fainting on the altar steps. Wood mentions the juniors “at breakfast in hall” in [Pg 463] 1661. Most took beer and bread from the buttery and likely consumed it in each other's rooms, starting the friendly tradition of breakfast parties, which was refined in the early nineteenth century. “Let the tender swain,” says the cheeky Oxford Sausage, a mid-eighteenth-century creation of Oxford (and Cambridge) wits,—
And frothy beer for an unrestricted feast,
Hearty Breakfast! Back in ancient times
Our ancestors, strong with generous drinks, Brought in the morning, unlike the timid sons Of modern times: Nor has there ever been the power Brave Britons, who had fallen to decay, had thus fed, With British Ale enhancing British value.
The institution of breakfast, whatever happened to British worth, was certainly helped forward by the tea, rolls, and toast which slowly ousted ale. Lectures and disputations in private or in the Schools followed breakfast. The latter possibly encouraged inter-collegiate sports, since Exeter and Christ Church on one occasion resolved their disputation into a fight which attracted Masters of Arts. And well it might; for otherwise they were in danger of dining like fighting cocks and amusing themselves like doves: the sixteenth-century fellows of Corpus, for example, were permitted no games but ball in the college garden. Examinations are still a select and expensive form of amusement.[Pg 464] The stories told of celebrated men and their viva voce conflicts with examiners, and the like, have inspired more than one to go into the Schools in a mood of smiling irreverence. The fame resulting, it is true, has to be propagated by much anecdote from the lips of the hero himself. In the Middle Ages the humour was of a lustier kind. The parsley crown went, or should have gone, to the most brazen giver and taker of learned wit. In Anthony à Wood’s day, one William George, “cynical and hirsute in his behaviour,” was a noted sophister and disputant, and improved his purse by preparing the exercises of the dull or lazy for public recitation. The nature of these examinations, in their dull old age, has been recorded by one who took part:—
The tradition of breakfast, no matter what happened to British values, was definitely boosted by the tea, rolls, and toast that gradually replaced ale. After breakfast, there were lectures and debates, whether in private or in the Schools. This might have encouraged inter-collegiate sports, as Exeter and Christ Church once turned their debate into a fight that drew in Masters of Arts. And it was well-deserved; otherwise, they risked dining like fighters and entertaining themselves like doves: for instance, the sixteenth-century fellows of Corpus were allowed no games except ball in the college garden. Examinations are still a selective and costly form of entertainment. The stories of famous individuals and their viva voce confrontations with examiners have inspired more than one person to approach the Schools with a smirk. The resulting fame, it’s true, often needs to be spread through countless anecdotes shared by the hero himself. In the Middle Ages, the humor was much bolder. The parsley crown should have gone to the most audacious giver and receiver of clever banter. In Anthony à Wood’s time, a certain William George, known for his cynical and scruffy behavior, was a prominent sophister and debater, making extra money by preparing the speeches of those who were dull or lazy for public recitation. The nature of these examinations, in their dreary old age, has been documented by someone who was part of the experience:—
“Two boys, or men, as they call themselves, agree to do generals together. The first stage in this mighty work is to produce arguments. These are always handed down from generation to generation, on long slips of paper, and consist of foolish syllogisms on foolish subjects. The next step is to go for a liceat to one of the petty officers, called the Regent Master of the Schools, who subscribes his name to the questions, and receives sixpence as his fee. When the important day arrives, the two doubty disputants go into a large dusty room, full of dirt and cobwebs, with walls and wainscot decorated with the names of former disputants, who, to divert the tedious hours, cut out their names with their penknives or wrote verses with a pencil. Here they sit in mean desks, opposite to each other, from one till three. Not once in a hundred times does[Pg 465] any officer enter; and if he does, he hears one syllogism or two, and then makes a bow, and departs, as he came and remained, in solemn silence. The disputants then return to the amusement of cutting the desks, carving their names, or reading Sterne’s Sentimental Journey, or some other edifying novel.”
“Two guys, or men, as they like to call themselves, decide to debate together. The first step in this grand task is to come up with arguments. These are always passed down through the generations on long slips of paper and consist of silly syllogisms on silly topics. The next step is to get a liceat from one of the minor officials known as the Regent Master of the Schools, who signs off on the questions and takes sixpence as his fee. On the big day, the two eager debaters enter a large, dusty room filled with dirt and cobwebs, where the walls and paneling are covered with the names of past debaters, who, to make the time pass, carved their names with penknives or wrote verses with pencils. Here, they sit at shabby desks, facing each other from one until three. Not once in a hundred times does[Pg 465] any official come in; and if one does, he hears one or two syllogisms, then bows and leaves in complete silence. The debaters then return to the fun of carving into the desks, etching their names, or reading Sterne’s Sentimental Journey, or some other uplifting novel.”
Thus, towards the end of the eighteenth century, “great progress is made towards the wished-for honour of a bachelor’s degree”; the goal might be reached, if the undergraduate knew a few “jolly young Masters of Arts,” by answering questions concerning the pedigree of a race-horse. Such was the lack of interest in the disputations that they were called “wall” lectures, after the name of their principal auditor.
Thus, towards the end of the eighteenth century, "great progress is made towards the desired honor of a bachelor’s degree"; the goal might be achieved if the undergraduate knew a few "fun young Masters of Arts" by answering questions about the lineage of a racehorse. The lack of interest in the discussions was so pronounced that they were referred to as "wall" lectures, after the name of their main audience member.
A little poaching gave a very attractive substitute for cross-country running. But increasing college discipline and the heightening average of wealth and birth among students cut off the more violent sports of the Middle Ages. The unattached, poor Welsh and Irish students, who kept up the University name for rough and adventurous relaxations, disappeared before the Reformation; and after the Poor Law Act of 1531 had condemned begging scholars, who were not authorised under the seal of a university, to be treated as able-bodied beggars, there can have been few to poach at Shotover and Abingdon. The masked Mohock revels and Jacobite struttings of the Augustan age were a poor alternative. The blithe and fearless spirit of trespassing, so common among undergraduates, is the sole survival to-day, if we exclude the pious uprooting[Pg 466] of stakes and fences on fields supposed (by reference to Doomsday Book) to be common land. Before and after the Puritans, who preferred music in their rooms, there was free access to the acting of dramas in Latin and English, and earlier still, to the miracle plays of Herod and Noah and the like. Even during the Commonwealth private theatricals were popular; and Wood speaks of one John Glendall, a fellow of Brasenose, who was the witty terræ filius in 1658, when the Acts were kept in St. Mary’s Church, as “a great mimick, and acted well in several plays which the scholars acted by stealth in Kettle Hall, the refectory at Gloster Hall,” etc.
A bit of poaching provided a pretty attractive alternative to cross-country running. But with stricter college rules and the rising wealth and social status of students, the more violent sports from the Middle Ages faded away. The unattached, poorer Welsh and Irish students, who kept the University’s reputation for rough and adventurous pastimes alive, disappeared before the Reformation; and after the Poor Law Act of 1531 labeled begging scholars who weren't officially recognized by a university as able-bodied beggars, there were likely few left to poach at Shotover and Abingdon. The masked Mohock parties and Jacobite displays of the Augustan age were a weak substitute. The carefree and bold spirit of trespassing, which was so common among undergraduates, is the only remnant today, if we overlook the righteous uprooting[Pg 466] of stakes and fences in fields thought to be common land (based on the Domesday Book). Before and after the Puritans, who preferred music in their rooms, there was open access to performances of dramas in Latin and English, and even earlier, to miracle plays like Herod and Noah. Even during the Commonwealth, private theater productions were popular; Wood mentions one John Glendall, a fellow of Brasenose, who was a witty terræ filius in 1658, when the Acts were held in St. Mary’s Church, calling him “a great mimic, and acted well in several plays which the scholars performed secretly in Kettle Hall, the refectory at Gloster Hall,” etc.
For centuries the ale-houses were full of university life. At one time there were three hundred in Oxford. They had excellent uses before a common room perfected the homeliness of the college; and even afterwards, in the eighteenth century, a poetical club met at “The Tuns” to display their wit. There the undergraduates freshened and shared their wit, before each had an ample sitting-room, and before the junior common room,—where now the newspaper rustles, and the debate roars or chirps, and the senior scholar, on rare occasions, speaks to a not wholly reverent college meeting from the time-honoured elevation of the mantelpiece. The men of Balliol continued the old-fashioned devotion to the “Split Crow” in Broad Street long after the coffee-house had become fashionable. The vice-chancellor, being president of the rival and neighbouring society of Trinity, scoffed at the Maste[Pg 468][Pg 467]r’s
For centuries, the pubs were central to university life. At one point, there were three hundred in Oxford. They served great purposes before a common room made the college feel more like home; and even after that, in the eighteenth century, a poetry club met at “The Tuns” to showcase their cleverness. There, undergraduates socialized and shared their humor, before each had their own spacious sitting room, and before the junior common room—where now the newspaper crinkles, and debates get loud or quiet, and the senior scholar, on rare occasions, addresses a somewhat irreverent college gathering from the time-honored height of the mantelpiece. The guys at Balliol kept up their old-fashioned loyalty to the “Split Crow” on Broad Street long after coffee houses became trendy. The vice-chancellor, as president of the rival and nearby society of Trinity, mocked the Maste[Pg 468][Pg 467]r’s

BROAD STREET, LOOKING WEST
Broad Street, facing west
On the left of the picture is the enclosing wall of the Sheldonian Theatre, with its startlingly picturesque thermes. A flight of semicircular steps leads to an entrance between two of them.
On the left side of the picture is the surrounding wall of the Sheldonian Theatre, featuring its strikingly beautiful thermes. A set of semicircular steps leads to an entrance between two of them.
In the first bay of the wall, seen through the palisade fence, is the old Ashmolean Museum, and farther on is a glimpse of Exeter College. The spire is that of the College Chapel.
In the first bay of the wall, visible through the palisade fence, is the old Ashmolean Museum, and farther along is a view of Exeter College. The spire belongs to the College Chapel.
By the large tree standing near the Church of St. Mary Magdalen are the buildings of Balliol College, and nearer to the spectator is the entrance to Trinity College and Kettle Hall.
By the big tree near the Church of St. Mary Magdalen are the buildings of Balliol College, and closer to the viewer is the entrance to Trinity College and Kettle Hall.
Some of the houses to the right of the picture are fair specimens of eighteenth-century domestic architecture.
Some of the houses on the right side of the picture are good examples of eighteenth-century home design.
Two or three bicycles are shown, and the time is early noon.
Two or three bicycles are visible, and it's just past midday.
attempt to discourage them; “so now they may be sots by authority.” The disorder was winked at because it increased the “natural stupidity” of the Balliol men of the day. But the attitude of the University towards humour two centuries ago was a wily mixture of patronage and ferocity. The terræ filius was only not official in his reckless bombardment of order and authority at the annual University Act. It was as though a jackdaw should be invited to church. He and his companion (for they hunted in couples) were chosen, as regularly as proctors, by election; and to become terræ filius must have been the blue riband of the wilder sort of University wits. Year after year pairs of terræ filii fired their random shots at great and small, always with audacity, sometimes with the utmost scurrility; and year after year one or both of the pair suffered expulsion, or, like Addison’s father, public humiliation, for their scandalous and opprobrious words, which no doubt earned the gratitude of irresponsible juniors.
attempt to discourage them; “so now they may be drunks by authority.” The chaos was overlooked because it boosted the “natural foolishness” of the Balliol men of that time. But the University’s attitude towards humor two centuries ago was a clever mix of condescension and intensity. The terræ filius was practically official with his reckless attacks on order and authority during the annual University Act. It was like inviting a jackdaw to church. He and his partner (since they came in pairs) were chosen regularly, just like proctors, through an election; becoming terræ filius must have been the top honor of the more eccentric types among the University wits. Year after year, pairs of terræ filii took their random shots at everyone, always with boldness, sometimes with extreme disrespect; and year after year, one or both of them got expelled, or, like Addison’s father, publicly humiliated for their scandalous and disgraceful words, which surely earned the gratitude of the unruly juniors.
It was long a common recreation, a recreation only, to go on the river in a boat, and to row or be rowed to some place of meditation or festivity, or to go with music and wine upon the Isis to Godstow Bridge or Sandford—
It used to be a popular pastime, just for fun, to take a boat out on the river and either row or be rowed to a spot for reflection or celebration, or to head with music and wine on the Isis to Godstow Bridge or Sandford—
And the mention of Sandford carries with it many memories for modern Oxford men, even if perch is[Pg 472] not always to be had—of winter afternoons when the mulled port was as sweet as a carnation, and a voice from a slowly-gliding barge was the sole sound in all the land. One joyous company long ago went, “like country fiddlers,” to Farringdon fair, with cithern, bass viol, and violin. The city itself offered other amusements than the theatre, music hall, billiard tables, and picture shows of to-day. Freaks, monstrosities, mountebanks, jugglers, were welcome not only to undergraduates of fifteen or sixteen. There was “a brazen head that could speak and answer” at the Fleur de Lace on one day; on another, strange beasts. On May-day a maypole stood near St. Peter’s-in-the-East and opposite the “Mitre.” A bear-baiting was always a possibility. There was a fencing school at hand. One who cared for none of these has left this account of his Oxford day in the seventeenth century:—
And the mention of Sandford brings back many memories for modern Oxford guys, even if there isn't always a perch to be had—of winter afternoons when the mulled port was as sweet as a carnation, and the only sound in the land was a voice from a slowly gliding barge. One joyful group long ago went, “like country fiddlers,” to Farringdon fair, with cithern, bass viol, and violin. The city itself offered more entertainment than the theater, music hall, billiard tables, and movie theaters of today. Freaks, oddities, con artists, and jugglers were welcome not just to undergraduates of fifteen or sixteen. There was “a talking brazen head” at the Fleur de Lace one day; on another, strange animals. On May Day, a maypole stood near St. Peter’s-in-the-East and across from the “Mitre.” A bear-baiting was always a possibility. There was a fencing school nearby. One person who cared for none of these has left this account of his Oxford day in the seventeenth century:—
Good afternoon, everyone. Let's have a cup and also dinner—
i.e., interprets Wood, in the morning he mended his stockings, studied Greek, took breakfast, studied St. Augustine, and dined; and in the afternoon, walked in Christ Church meadows, cracked nuts, took a drink, and had supper.
i.e., interprets Wood, in the morning he fixed his socks, studied Greek, had breakfast, read St. Augustine, and had lunch; then in the afternoon, he walked in Christ Church meadows, cracked nuts, had a drink, and ate dinner.
Above all, in and after the time of Cromwell the city provided coffee-houses,—the real, steaming, smoking, witty thing. The hospitality and spirit of careless intercourse between college and college which they fostered belong to the present day. They were first opened, too, at a time when much of mediæval life was[Pg 474][Pg 473]

THE HIGH STREET LOOKING EAST
THE HIGH STREET EASTBOUND
The Mitre Inn is on the left of the picture, and above the white building rises the tower and lantern of All Saints’ Church. A part of these buildings has been removed for the extension of Brasenose College. Farther on, the spire of the University Church appears above the porch of All Saints’, and a portion of the battlements of All Souls’ College closes the perspective.
The Mitre Inn is on the left side of the picture, and the tower and lantern of All Saints' Church rise above the white building. Some of these buildings have been taken down for the expansion of Brasenose College. Further along, the spire of the University Church can be seen above the porch of All Saints', and part of the battlements of All Souls' College frames the view.
departing, when Christmas sports were dying, and Latin conversation at dinner and supper was going out of use; and Anthony à Wood laments that scholar-like conversation (“viz. by quoting the fathers, producing an antient verse from the poets suitable to his discourse”) was accounted pedantic, and “nothing but news and the affairs of Christendom,” he says scornfully, “is discoursed of, and that generally at coffee-houses.” At some, perhaps at all of them, there was a light library, which apparently resembled the library of a modern college barge. A copy of Rabelais, with poems and plays, all chained in the old manner, embellished Short’s coffee-house. Later came the Tatlers and Spectators and Connoisseurs, for “such as have neglected or lost their Latin or Greek,” as Tom Warton said:—
departing, when Christmas festivities were fading, and Latin conversation at dinner and supper was becoming less common; and Anthony à Wood expresses regret that scholarly conversation (“like quoting the fathers, bringing up an ancient verse from the poets relevant to the discussion”) was seen as pretentious, and “only news and the issues of Christendom,” he dismissively remarks, “are talked about, and that mostly at coffee-houses.” At some, maybe at all of them, there was a small library that looked a lot like the library of a modern college barge. A copy of Rabelais, along with poems and plays, all chained in the old style, decorated Short’s coffee-house. Later came the Tatlers and Spectators and Connoisseurs, for “those who have neglected or lost their Latin or Greek,” as Tom Warton noted:—
“As there are here books suited to every Taste, so there are liquors adapted to every species of reading. Amorous tales may be perused over Arrack punch and jellies; insipid odes over orgeat or capilaire; politics over coffee; divinity over port; and defences of bad generals and bad ministers over whipt syllabubs. In a word, in these libraries instruction and pleasure go hand in hand; and we may pronounce, in a literal sense, that learning remains no longer a dry pursuit.” And in Gibbon’s day the dons changed their seats from chapel to hall, and from common room to coffee-house, in an indolent circle; and not only dons, but the infinite variety of University types in the distinguishing raiment of that day[Pg 478]—
“As there are books here for every taste, there are also drinks that go with every type of reading. Romantic stories can be enjoyed with Arrack punch and jellies; bland poems can be savored with orgeat or capilaire; politics can be debated over coffee; theology can be contemplated with port; and critiques of bad generals and incompetent ministers can be indulged with whipped syllabubs. In short, in these libraries, learning and enjoyment go hand in hand; we can say, quite literally, that education is no longer a dull task.” And in Gibbon’s time, the scholars moved from the chapel to the dining hall, and from the common room to the coffee shop, in a lazy cycle; and not just scholars, but the wide variety of University characters in the distinctive clothing of that era[Pg 478]—
Of members who are free, or based on foundation,
If old Cato were here as the narrator He must have a name.
There, or at an ale-house, which appears to have been less exposed to a proctorial raid, the sociable spent the Oxford evening, which grew longer as the nineteenth century approached. Sunday evenings were frequently devoted to the fair sex in Merton walks, which were always gay.
There, or at a pub that seemed to be less likely to get raided by the authorities, the social crowd spent the evening in Oxford, which stretched on as the nineteenth century drew near. Sunday evenings were often dedicated to the ladies in Merton walks, which were always lively.
I’ll cut my cap down to the smallest size,
That Polly might see me,
exclaims an eighteenth-century spark, with a hint that the kindly relations between town and gown sometimes reached the married state. Yet another writer with an eye for the amusing side of Oxford life drew the following picture, which a diligent seeker might, with difficulty, parallel to-day. Gainlove and Ape-all, two Oxford undergraduates, are talking:—
exclaims an 18th-century spark, suggesting that the friendly relationship between the townspeople and the university sometimes led to marriage. Yet another writer, who had a knack for capturing the humorous aspects of Oxford life, painted the following picture, which a careful observer might struggle to find a modern equivalent for today. Gainlove and Ape-all, two Oxford undergraduates, are talking:—
“Gainlove. What, bound for the Port of Wedlock, Sir?
Gainlove. What, heading for the Port of Wedlock, Sir?
“Ape-all. No, no, no, no, Sir; I only use her as a Pleasure boat to dabble about the stream with, purely for a Passo Tempo, or so. O Lord, Sir, I have been at London, and know more of the world than to make love to a woman I intend to marry—only it diverts the spleen to talk to a girl sometimes, you know—and ’tis such a comedy, when one gallants them to college, to[Pg 480][Pg 479]
“Ape-all. No, no, no, no, Sir; I just use her as a pleasure boat to play around in the stream with, just for a pastime or something. Oh Lord, Sir, I’ve been to London and I know more about the world than to fall in love with a woman I plan to marry—it's just nice to chat with a girl sometimes, you know—and it’s such a comedy when you take them to college, to[Pg 480][Pg 479]

THE BOTANIC GARDEN
THE BOTANIC GARDENS
The Garden is surrounded by a wall, commenced in 1632, pierced by several noble gateways one of which shows to the left of the picture.
The Garden is enclosed by a wall that started being built in 1632, featuring several grand gateways, one of which is visible to the left of the picture.
The entrance gateway fronting the High Street was designed by Inigo Jones.
The entrance gate on the High Street was designed by Inigo Jones.
The Garden is a favourite promenade and spot for rest; Magdalen Tower is seen to great advantage through its grand trees.
The Garden is a popular place to walk and relax; you can see Magdalen Tower beautifully framed by its impressive trees.
see all the young Fellows froze with envy, stand centinel in their niches, like the figures of the Kings round the Royal Exchange. And the old Dons who would take no more notice of one at another time than a bishop of a country curate, will come cringing, cap in hand, to offer to show the ladies the curiosities of the College—when the duce knows they only want to be nibbling.”
see all the young Fellows freeze with envy, standing watch in their spots, like the figures of the Kings around the Royal Exchange. And the old Dons, who wouldn’t pay any attention to you at another time than a bishop to a country curate, will come groveling, cap in hand, to offer to show the ladies the cool stuff in the College—when the devil knows they just want to be hanging around.
Those who liked not these things had at least as good an opportunity of quiet work as to-day. A separate set of rooms for each member of a college had gradually become almost universal in the eighteenth century; and the great outer door or “oak” shut off those who wished from the rest of the world. Shelley was so pleased with that impervious door that he exclaimed: the oak “is surely the tree of knowledge!” The simplicity of the quarters within, before much of undergraduate social life was passed in their rooms, would astonish modern eyes, if we may judge from contemporary cuts, that show a few chairs, a small table with central leg, a cap and gown on the wall, an inkhorn hanging by the window, a pair of bellows and tongs by the fire, and over the mantel-piece a picture or mirror. But there the undergraduate was safe from duns “with vocal heel thrice thundering at the gate,” and, let us hope, from dons, in colleges where they came round at nine in the evening, to see that he kept good hours. Dibdin tells us that, as he closed the Curiosities of Literature, he saw the Gothic battlements outside his window “streaked with the dapple light of morning.” Ten years later, in the first year[Pg 484] of the nineteenth century, Reginald Heber, then at Brasenose, looked out from his window and saw the fellows of All Souls’ thundering the “All Souls’ Mallard” song—
Those who didn't enjoy these things had just as good an opportunity for quiet work as today. By the eighteenth century, it had become almost standard for each college member to have their own set of rooms; the big outer door, or “oak,” kept those who wanted to be away from the rest of the world. Shelley was so delighted with that solid door that he exclaimed: the oak “is surely the tree of knowledge!” The simplicity of the living spaces inside, before much of the social life of students took place in their rooms, would surprise modern observers, if we can judge by contemporary images showing a few chairs, a small table with a central leg, a cap and gown on the wall, an inkhorn hanging by the window, a pair of bellows and tongs by the fire, and a picture or mirror over the mantelpiece. But there, the student could find refuge from creditors “with vocal heel thrice thundering at the gate,” and, we hope, from professors in colleges where they would come around at nine in the evening to check that he kept to his schedule. Dibdin tells us that, as he finished the Curiosities of Literature, he saw the Gothic battlements outside his window “streaked with the dapple light of morning.” Ten years later, in the first year[Pg 484] of the nineteenth century, Reginald Heber, then at Brasenose, looked out from his window and saw the fellows of All Souls’ singing the “All Souls’ Mallard” tune—
And they fall hard on their bones and stomachs.
But let the All Souls guys have the Mallard.
Although the blood of King Edward, by the blood of King Edward,
It was a exchanging, exchanging mallard—
carrying torches and inspired with canary as they sang. No one appears to have heard the song again. And with that sound old Oxford life died away.[Pg 485]
carrying torches and filled with joy as they sang. No one seems to have heard that song again. And with that sound, old Oxford life faded away.[Pg 485]
THE OXFORD COUNTRY
CHAPTER IX
THE OXFORD COUNTRY
Lætissimus umbra.
And the eye travels down to Oxford’s towers.
Lætissimus umbra.
And the eye moves down to the towers of Oxford.
The walls of Oxford are tufted with ivy-leaved toadflax, wallflower, and the sunny plant which botanists call “inelegant ragwort.” They form a trail from the villages, upon wall after wall, into Ship Street and Queen’s Lane, by which the country may be traced. In the same way, the city may be said to steal out into the fields. Not only do we read the epitaph of a forgotten fellow in a quiet church, and mark a resemblance to Merton or Lincoln in the windows of an old house in North Hinksey Street, but the beauty of the windy Shotover plateau, with its slopes of hyacinth and furze, and the elmy hills of Cumnor and Radbrook, are haunted and peopled by visions of the distant spires. They give that mild, well-sculptured country a soul. Even when the city is out of sight, its neighbourhood is not to be put by. Everywhere it is a suspected presence, a hidden melodist. Whether in memory or anticipation, it is, on all our walks, “like some grave thought threading a mighty dream.[Pg 488]”
The walls of Oxford are covered with ivy-leaved toadflax, wallflower, and the sunny plant that botanists call “inelegant ragwort.” They create a path from the villages, wall after wall, leading into Ship Street and Queen’s Lane, where the countryside can be traced. In the same way, the city seems to extend into the fields. Not only do we read the epitaph of a forgotten person in a quiet church, and notice a resemblance to Merton or Lincoln in the windows of an old house on North Hinksey Street, but the beauty of the breezy Shotover plateau, with its slopes of hyacinths and gorse, along with the elm-covered hills of Cumnor and Radbrook, are filled with visions of the distant spires. They give that gentle, well-shaped countryside a soul. Even when the city is out of view, its presence can still be felt. It’s everywhere, a hidden melody. Whether in memory or anticipation, it’s felt on all our walks, “like some grave thought threading a mighty dream.[Pg 488]”
I could wish that an inexorable Five Mile Act had kept it clear of red brick. Newman and Ruskin hinted at the same. I know not how to describe the spirit which turns a few miles of peaceful southern country into something so unique. But if I mention a wood or a stream, let the reader paint in, as it were, something sweet and shadowy in the distance, with his imagination or recollection; let it be as some subtle perfume in a pot pourri which makes it different from all others.
I wish that a strict Five Mile Act had kept it free from red brick. Newman and Ruskin suggested something similar. I can’t quite explain the feeling that transforms a few miles of tranquil southern countryside into something so special. But if I bring up a forest or a stream, let the reader imagine something lovely and hazy in the distance, using their imagination or memories; let it be like a unique scent in a pot pourri that sets it apart from all the rest.
There is a beautiful, sloping acre, not far from Oxford, which a number of great elms divide into aisles and nave, while at one end a curving hawthorn and maple hedge completes them with an apse. Towards Oxford, the space is almost shut in by remote elms. On one side I hear the soft and sibilant fall of soaking grass before the scythe. The rain and sun alternating are like two lovers in dialogue; the rain smiles from the hills when the sun shines, and the sun also while the rain is falling. When the rain is not over and the sun has interrupted, the nightingale sings, where the stitchwort is starry amidst long grass that bathes the sweeping branches of thorn and brier; and I am now stabbed, and now caressed, by its changing song. Through the elms on either side, hot, rank grasses rise, crowned with a vapour of parsley flowers. A white steam from the soil faintly mists the grass at intervals. The grass and elms seem to be suffering in the rain, suffering for their quietness and solitude, to be longing for something, as perhaps Eden also dropped “some natural tears” when left a void. A potent, warm, and not quite soothing[Pg 490][Pg 489]
There’s a beautiful, sloping acre not far from Oxford, divided by several grand elms into aisles and a nave, with a curving hawthorn and maple hedge at one end that forms an apse. Toward Oxford, this area feels almost enclosed by distant elms. On one side, I can hear the soft and gentle fall of wet grass being cut by the scythe. The rain and sun take turns like two lovers having a conversation; the rain smiles from the hills when the sun shines, and the sun shines back while the rain falls. When the rain isn’t too heavy and the sun interrupts, the nightingale sings, where the stitchwort glimmers like stars among the long grass that sweeps around the thorn and brier branches; I feel both pierced and embraced by its changing song. Hot, dense grasses rise on either side, topped with a mist of parsley flowers. A light steam rises from the soil, faintly swirling around the grass here and there. The grass and elms seem to be suffering in the rain, longing for something, as perhaps Eden too shed “some natural tears” when it became empty. A strong, warm feeling, not entirely comforting[Pg 490][Pg 489]

OXFORD, FROM SOUTH HINKSEY
Oxford, from South Hinksey
Elms and willow trees fringe the slope of the hills leading to the valley, in which the city shows sparkling in the morning sunlight.
Elms and willow trees line the hills leading down to the valley, where the city sparkles in the morning sunlight.
Commencing from the west or left side of the picture, we see the tower and lantern of All Saints’, with the dome of the Radcliffe Library telling dark against the sky; then come the University Church of St. Mary, Tom Tower, and the stretch of buildings of Christ Church, with the Great Hall of the College, the Cathedral spire finishing the group.
Starting from the west or left side of the picture, we see the tower and lantern of All Saints’, with the dome of the Radcliffe Library standing out against the sky; then we have the University Church of St. Mary, Tom Tower, and the array of buildings of Christ Church, with the Great Hall of the College and the Cathedral spire completing the scene.
Merton Tower stands detached to the east.
Merton Tower stands alone to the east.
The almost level line of the horizon, with the trees bordering the river to Iffley, frame as beautiful a group of buildings as any to be seen in England.
The nearly flat line of the horizon, with the trees lining the river to Iffley, frames a stunning group of buildings that rivals any found in England.
Farm sheds show under the willow trees to the left.
Farm sheds are visible under the willow trees on the left.
The time is the early morning of a summer day.
The time is early morning on a summer day.
perfume creeps over the grass, and makes the May blossom something elvish. I turn and look east. Almost at once, all these things are happily composed into one pleasant sense, and are but a frame to a tower and three spires of Oxford, like clouds—but the sky is suddenly cloudless.
perfume floats over the grass, making the May blossoms feel magical. I turn to the east. Almost instantly, everything comes together into one pleasant feeling, just a backdrop to a tower and three spires of Oxford, resembling clouds—but the sky is suddenly clear.
I suppose that ivy has the same graceful ways on all old masonry, yet I have caught myself remembering, as if it were unique, that perfect ancient ivy that makes an arcade of green along the wall of Godstow nunnery. And in the same way, above all others I remember the pollard willows that lean this way and that along the Oxford streams—like prehistoric sculpture in winter, but in summer a green wave and full of voices. Never have I seen sunsets like those which make Wytham Wood and Marley Wood great purple clouds, and the clouds overhead more solid than they. How pleasant are Cherwell and Evenlode, and those angry little waters at Ferry Hinksey! When I see the rain a white cloud and Shotover Hill a grey cloud, I seem never before to have seen the sweetness of rain. October is nowhere so much itself as among the Hinksey elms, when the fallen leaves smell of tea (and who that loves tea and autumn will cast a stone?). The trees, whether they stand alone or in societies, are most perfect in autumn. Something in the soil or climate preserves their farewell hues as in a protracted sunset. Looking at them at nightfall, it is hard to believe that they have been amidst ten thousand sunsets and remained the same; for they ponder great matters, and not only in[Pg 494] the autumn, but in May, when the silence is startled by the gurgling laughter of the hen cuckoo. When spring comes into the land, I remember a mulberry that suspended its white blossom, among black boughs, over a shining lawn at the edge of the city; and the bells that in March or April seemed to be in league with spring, as we heard them from the fields. And how well a conversation would grow and blossom between Headington and Wheatley or Osney and Eaton! Some that loved not the country would flourish strangely in wisdom or folly as the roads rose or fell, or as the grey oak stems of Bagley Wood began to make a mist around us. The only incidents, in twenty miles, were the occasional sprints of one who was devoted to a liver, or the cometary passing of one on a bicycle that sang Le Roi d’Ivetot as if it were a psalm containing the whole duty of man. And how a book—even a “schools” book—taken on the river or the hills, would yield a great sweetness to alternate handlings and laughter of several companions; or, if it were a dull book, might be made to yield more than its author ever meant. I have ever thought that the churchyard with a broken cross at Hinksey, and the willows below and the elms above, if one takes George Herbert there, is a better argument for the Church than Jewel and Chilling worth, if the old yew had not seemed the priest of some old superstition still powerful.
I guess ivy looks beautiful on all old buildings, but I find myself thinking of that perfect ancient ivy that creates a green arcade along the wall of Godstow nunnery as if it were one of a kind. Similarly, I particularly remember the pollard willows that lean this way and that along the Oxford streams—like ancient sculptures in winter, but in summer, they turn into a green wave full of sounds. I've never seen sunsets like those that turn Wytham Wood and Marley Wood into massive purple clouds, with clouds overhead appearing even more solid. Cherwell and Evenlode are so lovely, as are those spirited little streams at Ferry Hinksey! When I see the rain as a white cloud and Shotover Hill as a grey cloud, I feel like I’ve never truly appreciated the beauty of rain before. October is most itself among the Hinksey elms, where the fallen leaves smell like tea (and who that loves tea and autumn would throw a stone?). The trees, whether they stand alone or in groups, look their best in autumn. Something in the soil or climate keeps their farewell colors as if caught in a long sunset. Looking at them at dusk, it's hard to believe they’ve been through countless sunsets and remained unchanged; they contemplate deep things, not just in autumn but also in May, when the silence is broken by the cheerful sound of the hen cuckoo. When spring arrives, I recall a mulberry tree holding its white blossoms among dark branches over a gleaming lawn at the edge of the city; and the bells in March or April seem to join in with spring as we hear them from the fields. What a delightful conversation could flourish between Headington and Wheatley or Osney and Eaton! Some who didn’t love the countryside would show strange wisdom or folly as the roads rose or fell, or as the grey oak trunks of Bagley Wood began to cloud our surroundings. The only events in twenty miles were the occasional sprint of someone focused on a liver or the fleeting appearance of someone on a bicycle singing Le Roi d’Ivetot as if it were a psalm encompassing all of life’s duties. And how a book—even a school book—taken to the river or the hills would bring immense joy through the shared readings and laughter of friends; or, if it were a dull book, it might reveal more than its author ever intended. I’ve always believed that the churchyard with the broken cross at Hinksey, along with the willows below and the elms above, if you take George Herbert there, argues more for the Church than Jewel and Chillingworth do, if only the old yew hadn’t seemed like the priest of some forgotten yet still powerful superstition.
No one can walk much in the Oxford country without becoming a Pantheist. The influence of the city, the memories, the books he is fresh from, help the indolent[Pg 496][Pg 495]
No one can walk around the Oxford countryside without turning into a Pantheist. The vibe of the city, the memories, and the books he's just read all contribute to the lazy attitude.

OXFORD FROM HEADINGTON HILL
Oxford from Headington Hill
The elm trees of the “Grove” of Magdalen College show to the extreme left of the picture. The buildings of the College do not appear.
The elm trees in the “Grove” of Magdalen College are shown on the far left of the picture. The College buildings are not visible.
To the right of the “Grove” are the two spires of the Cathedral and the University Church of St. Mary, with the Radcliffe dome and the “Schools” tower farther on.
To the right of the “Grove” are the two spires of the Cathedral and the University Church of St. Mary, with the Radcliffe dome and the “Schools” tower further along.
The view is looking west, at sunset in corn harvest.
The view looks west at sunset during the corn harvest.
walker, who is content to sit under a hedge and wait for the best things, to make his gods. The lanes are peopled with no fairies such as in Wales and Ireland nimbly feed the fantasy, which here, in consequence, is apt to take flight in wonderful ways. I remember one (and Ovid was not at all in his mind) who was all but confident that he saw Persephone on flat pastures and red ploughlands, gleaming between green trees, when the hawthorn was not yet over and the roses had begun, and the sapphire dragon-fly was afloat, on the Cherwell, as the boat made a cool sound among the river’s hair, betwixt Water Eaton and Islip. On the quiet, misty, autumn mornings, the hum of threshing machines was solemn; and there at least it was a true harmony of autumn, and the man casting sheaves from the rick was exalted—
walker, who is happy to sit under a hedge and wait for the best things to create his gods. The lanes are filled with no fairies like those in Wales and Ireland that spark the imagination, which here tends to take flight in amazing ways. I remember one (and Ovid wasn’t even on his mind) who was almost sure he saw Persephone in the flat pastures and red plowed fields, shining between green trees, when the hawthorn was still blooming and the roses had just started to appear, and the sapphire dragonfly was floating on the Cherwell, as the boat made a cool sound among the river's grass, between Water Eaton and Islip. On the quiet, misty autumn mornings, the sound of threshing machines was solemn; and there, at least, it was a true harmony of autumn, and the man throwing sheaves from the rick felt uplifted—
Everywhere the fancy, unaided by earlier fancies, sets to work very busily in these fields. I have on several afternoons gone some way towards the beginning of a new mythology, which might in a thousand years puzzle the Germans. The shadowy, half-apprehended faces of new deities float before my eyes, and I have wondered whether Apollo and Diana are not immortal presences wheresoever there are awful trees and alternating spaces of cool or sunlit lawn.... In the lanes there seems to be another religion for the night. There is a fitful wind, and so slow that as we walk we[Pg 500] can follow its path while it shakes the heavy leaves and dewy grass; and we feel as if we were trespassing on holy ground; the land seems to have changed masters, or rather to have One. Often I saw a clean-limbed beech, pale and slender, yet firm in its loftiness, that shook delicately arched branches at the top, and below held out an arm on which a form of schoolboys might have sat,—rising out of fine grass and printing its perfect outlines on the sky,—and I could fancy it enjoyed a life of pleasure that was health, beauty that was strength, thought that was repose.
Everywhere, creativity, without relying on past ideas, is working hard in these areas. On several afternoons, I’ve started to create a new mythology that might baffle the Germans in a thousand years. The hazy, half-formed faces of new gods hover before me, and I’ve wondered if Apollo and Diana are immortal presences wherever there are majestic trees and alternating patches of cool or sunlit grass... In the lanes, it feels like there’s a different religion for the night. There’s a gentle, inconsistent breeze, so slow that as we walk, we can follow its path as it rustles the heavy leaves and dewy grass; we feel like we’re intruding on sacred ground, as if the land has changed hands, or rather, has come under the dominion of One. I often saw a tall, slender beech tree, pale yet sturdy in its height, delicately waving its arched branches at the top, and below, it extended a limb where a group of schoolboys might have sat—rising from fine grass and outlining its perfect shape against the sky—and I could imagine it enjoying a life of joy that was health, beauty that was strength, and contemplation that was peace.
The Oxford country is rich in footpaths, as any one will know that goes the round from Folly Bridge, through South Hinksey, to the “Fox” at Boar’s Hill (where the scent of wallflower and hawthorn comes in through the window with the sound of the rain and the nightingale); and then away, skirting Wootton and Cumnor, past the “Bear” (with its cool flagged room looking on a field of gold, and Cumnor Church tower among elms); and back over the Hurst, where he turns, under the seven firs and solitary elm, to ponder the long, alluring view towards Stanton Harcourt and Bablock Hythe. He may take that walk many times, or wish to take it, and yet never touch the same footpaths; and never be sure of the waste patch of bluebell and furze, haunted by linnet and whinchat; the newly harrowed field, where the stones shine like ivory after rain; the green lane, where the beech leaves lie in February, and rise out of the snow, untouched by it, in polished amber; the orchard, where the grass is[Pg 501] gloomy in April with the shadow of bright cherry flowers.
The Oxford countryside is full of footpaths, as anyone who walks the loop from Folly Bridge, through South Hinksey, to the “Fox” at Boar’s Hill will know (where the scent of wallflower and hawthorn drifts in through the window with the sound of the rain and the nightingale); and then on, skirting Wootton and Cumnor, past the “Bear” (with its cool flagged room overlooking a field of gold, and Cumnor Church tower among the elms); and back over the Hurst, where he turns, under the seven firs and solitary elm, to contemplate the long, tempting view towards Stanton Harcourt and Bablock Hythe. He might take that walk many times, or want to take it, and still never step on the same footpaths; and never be certain about the stretch of bluebell and furze, inhabited by linnets and whinchats; the newly tilled field, where the stones gleam like ivory after rain; the green lane, where the beech leaves lie in February, rising out of the snow, untouched by it, in polished amber; the orchard, where the grass is gloomy in April under the shadow of bright cherry blossoms.
One such footpath I remember, that could be seen falling among woods and rising over hills, faint and winding, and disappearing at last,—like a vision of the perfect quiet life. We started once along it, over one of the many fair little Oxford bridges, one that cleared the stream in three graceful leaps of arching stone. The hills were cloudy with woods in the heat. On either hand, at long distances apart, lay little grey houses under scalloped capes of thatch, and here and there white houses, like children of that sweet land—albi circum ubera nati. For the most part we saw only the great hawthorn hedge, which gave us the sense of a companion always abreast of us, yet always cool and fresh as if just setting out. It was cooler when a red-hot bicyclist passed by. A sombre river, noiselessly sauntering seaward, far away dropped with a murmur, among leaves, into a pool. That sound alone made tremble the glassy dome of silence that extended miles on miles. All things were lightly powdered with gold, by a lustre that seemed to have been sifted through gauze. The hazy sky, striving to be blue, was reflected as purple in the waters. There, too, sunken and motionless, lay amber willow leaves; some floated down. Between the sailing leaves, against the false sky, hung the willow shadows,—shadows of willows overhead, with waving foliage, like the train of a bird of paradise. Everywhere the languid perfumes of corruption. Brown leaves laid their fingers on the[Pg 502] cheek as they fell; and here and there the hoary reverse of a willow leaf gleamed in the crannied bases of the trees. A plough, planted in mid-field, was curved like the wings of a bird alighting.
One footpath I remember wound through the woods and up the hills, faint and twisting, eventually disappearing—like a vision of a perfectly peaceful life. Once, we set off along it, crossing one of the many charming little Oxford bridges, which spanned the stream with three elegant stone arches. The hills were hazy with trees in the heat. On either side, spaced far apart, were small gray houses under scalloped thatched roofs, and here and there white houses, like children of that beautiful land—albi circum ubera nati. For the most part, we saw only the tall hawthorn hedge, which felt like a companion always beside us, yet always cool and fresh, as if just starting out. It felt cooler when a blazing cyclist zipped past. A dark river, silently meandering toward the sea, whispered as it flowed among the leaves into a pool. That sound alone made the silent dome that stretched for miles tremble slightly. Everything was lightly dusted with gold, illuminated by a glow that seemed filtered through gauze. The hazy sky, trying to be blue, was mirrored as purple in the water. There, too, lay still amber willow leaves, some drifting down. Between the floating leaves, against the deceptive sky, hung the shadows of the willows—shadows from the trees overhead, with swaying foliage, like the tail of a bird of paradise. Everywhere, there were the lazy scents of decay. Brown leaves brushed against the[Pg 502] cheek as they fell; and here and there, the silvery underside of a willow leaf shimmered in the knotted bases of the trees. A plow, planted in the middle of the field, curved like the wings of a bird about to land.
We could not walk as slowly as the river flowed; yet that seemed the true pace to move in life, and so reach the great grey sea. Hand in hand with the river wound the path, until twilight began to drive her dusky flocks across the west, and a light wind knitted the aspen branches against a silver sky with a crescent moon, as, troubled tenderly by autumnal maladies of soul, we came to our place of rest,—a grey, immemorial house with innumerable windows.[Pg 503]
We couldn't walk as slowly as the river flowed; yet that felt like the right speed for life, leading us to the vast grey sea. The path twisted alongside the river until twilight started to push its shadowy flocks across the west, and a gentle wind tangled the aspen branches against a silver sky with a crescent moon. Feeling affected by the soul's autumnal troubles, we finally reached our resting spot—a grey, ancient house with countless windows.[Pg 503]
IN PRAISE OF OXFORD
CHAPTER X
IN PRAISE OF OXFORD
Many have written in praise of Oxford, and so finely that I have made this selection with difficulty. I have excluded the work of living men, because I am not familiar with it. Among that which is included will be found passages from the writings of one who was at both Universities, John Lyly; of two who were at Cambridge only, Dryden and Wordsworth; of two who were at neither, Hazlitt and Hawthorne; and of several brilliant lovers of Oxford whose faith was filial and undivided. Almost all the quotations have wit or beauty enough to defend them, even had they been less apposite: their charm is redoubled in this place, since they are in Oxford’s praise. They are worthy of a city which a learned German compares with the creations of Poussin and Claude. But they are in no need of compliment. I could only wish that I had put down nothing unworthy of their blessing. I have; and so they stand in place of epilogue, where they perform the not unprecedented duty of apology.[Pg 506]
Many people have written praises of Oxford so beautifully that I found it hard to make this selection. I've left out the works of living authors because I'm not familiar with them. Among those I've included are passages from the writings of John Lyly, who attended both Universities; and from Dryden and Wordsworth, who only studied at Cambridge; along with Hazlitt and Hawthorne, who attended neither; as well as several brilliant admirers of Oxford, whose loyalty was strong and unwavering. Almost all the quotes have enough wit or beauty to stand on their own, even if they weren’t so relevant: their appeal is increased here since they celebrate Oxford. They deserve a city that a learned German compares to the masterpieces of Poussin and Claude. But they don’t need any extra praise. I only hope that I haven’t included anything unworthy of their honor. I have, so they serve as a sort of conclusion, fulfilling the not uncommon role of an apology. [Pg 506]
“There are also in this Islande two famous Universities, the one Oxford, the other Cambridge, both for the profession of all sciences, for Divinitie, phisicke, Lawe, and for all kinde of learning, excelling all the Universities of Christendome.
“There are also in this island two famous universities, one Oxford and the other Cambridge, both excelling in all fields of study, including theology, medicine, law, and all kinds of learning, outshining all the universities in Christendom.”
“I was myself in either of them, and like them both so well, that I meane not in the way of controversie to preferre any for the better in Englande, but both for the best in the world, saving this, that Colledges in Oxenford are much stately for the building, and Cambridge much more sumptuous for the houses in the towne, but the learning neither lyeth in the free stones of the one, nor the fine streates of the other, for out of them both do dayly proceede men of great wisdome, to rule in the common welth, of learning to instruct the Common people, of all singuler kinde of professions to do good to all. And let this suffice, not to enquire which of them is the superior, but that neither of them have their equall, neither to ask which of them is the most auncient, but whether any other bee so famous.”
“I find myself in both of them, and I like them both so much that I don’t want to argue about which is better in England, because I think both are the best in the world. That said, the colleges in Oxford are more impressive in terms of their architecture, while Cambridge has more lavish houses in the town. But the true knowledge doesn’t come from the impressive buildings of either place or the beautiful streets of the other; both produce wise individuals who help govern the commons, educate the public, and excel in a wide range of professions for the benefit of all. So let’s agree not to debate which one is superior or which one is older, but rather to acknowledge that neither has an equal, and to consider whether any other place is as renowned.”
John Lyly.
John Lyly.
“Where the Cherwell flows along with the Isis, and their divided streams make several little sweet and pleasant islands, is seated on a rising vale the most famous University of Oxford, in Saxon Oxenford, our most noble Athens, the seat of the English Muses, the prop and pillar, nay the sun, the eye, the very soul of the nation: the most celebrated fountain of wisdom and learning, from whence Religion, Letters and Good[Pg 507] Manners, are happily diffused thro’ the whole Kingdom. A delicate and most beautiful city, whether we respect the neatness of private buildings, or the stateliness of public structures, or the healthy and pleasant situation. For the plain on which it stands is walled in, as it were, with hills of wood, which keeping out on one side the pestilential south wind, on the other, the tempestuous west, admit only the purifying east, and the north that disperses all unwholesome vapours. From which delightful situation, Authors tell us it was heretofore call’d Bellositum”—Camden.
“Where the Cherwell flows together with the Isis, and their split streams create several small, sweet, and pleasant islands, sits on a rising hill the most famous University of Oxford, in Saxon Oxenford, our noble Athens, the home of the English Muses, the support and foundation, even the sun, the eye, the very soul of the nation: the most celebrated source of wisdom and learning, from which Religion, Letters, and Good[Pg 507] Manners are happily spread throughout the whole Kingdom. A charming and beautiful city, whether we consider the neatness of private buildings, the grandeur of public structures, or the healthy and pleasant location. The level ground it stands on is enclosed, so to speak, by wooded hills, which block out on one side the harmful southern wind, and on the other, the stormy west, allowing only the refreshing east and the north that clears away all unhealthy vapors. Because of this delightful location, authors tell us it was formerly called Bellositum”—Camden.
In the college shelter of England's Flowers Expand, enjoying their springtime hours The atmosphere of freedom, the illumination of truth;
You have suffered a lot from the relentless passage of time:
Yet, O you spires of Oxford! Domes and towers!
Gardens and groves! your presence is overwhelming
The seriousness of reason; until, in truth, Transformed and speeding towards a daring exchange
I underestimate my own dear Cam, to wander Where silver Isis guides my young steps; Walk down the long avenue, or glide down The winding, stream-like path of that magnificent street—
An excited Novice dressed in a flowing gown!
Wordsworth.
“King James, 1605, when he came to our University of Oxford, and, amongst other edifices, now went to view that famous Library, renewed by Sir Thomas Bodley, in imitation of Alexander, at his departure brake out into that noble speech, If I were not a King, I would be an University man; and if it were[Pg 508] so that I must be a prisoner, if I might have my wish, I would desire to have no other prison than that Library, and to be chained together with so many good Authors et mortuis magistris. So sweet is the delight of study, the more learning they have (as he that hath a Dropsy, the more he drinks the thirstier he is), the more they covet to learn, and the last day is prioris discipulus; harsh at first learning is, radices amaræ, but fructus dulces, according to that of Isocrates, pleasant at last; the longer they live, the more they are enamoured of the Muses. Heinsius, the keeper of the Library at Leyden in Holland, was mewed up in it all the year long; and that which to my thinking should have bred a loathing caused in him a greater liking. I no sooner (saith he) come into the Library, but I bolt the door to me, excluding lust, ambition, avarice, and all such vices, whose nurse is idleness, the mother of ignorance, and Melancholy herself; in the very lap of eternity, amongst so many divine souls, I take my seat, with so lofty a spirit and sweet content, that I pity all our great ones, and rich men that know not this happiness.”
“King James, 1605, when he visited our University of Oxford, went to check out that famous Library, which was refurbished by Sir Thomas Bodley. As he left, he broke into that noble speech: If I weren’t a King, I would be a student at the university; and if I had to be a prisoner, I would want no other prison than that Library, and I would be tied to so many great Authors et mortuis magistris. The joy of studying is so sweet; the more knowledge they gain (just like someone with dropsy who gets thirstier the more they drink), the more they want to learn, and the last day is prioris discipulus; though learning is tough at first, radices amaræ, the rewards are sweet fructus dulces, as Isocrates said, delightful in the end; the longer they live, the more they love the Muses. Heinsius, the librarian at Leyden in Holland, spent the whole year in it; rather than becoming bored, he actually grew fonder of it. I no sooner (he says) enter the Library than I shut the door behind me, shutting out lust, ambition, greed, and all those vices that thrive on idleness, the mother of ignorance, and Melancholy itself; in the very lap of eternity, among so many divine souls, I take my seat with such high spirit and sweet content that I feel sorry for all the powerful and wealthy people who don’t know this happiness.”
The Anatomy of Melancholy.
The Anatomy of Melancholy.
And, where you think, doesn't assume to be better. Our poets have come here for adoption,
As nations sought to be freed from Rome:
Not in the oppressive tribes to stand,
But in your final, local group.
If his ambition can chase those hopes, Who, with faith, appreciates your talents and you, [Pg 510][Pg 509]

THE OLD ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM AND SHELDONIAN THEATRE
THE OLD ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM AND SHELDONIAN THEATRE
The Old Ashmolean Museum, with its noble entrance, stands to the left of the picture; on the right side is part of the south front of the Sheldonian Theatre.
The Old Ashmolean Museum, with its impressive entrance, is on the left side of the picture; on the right side is part of the south front of the Sheldonian Theatre.
An entrance to the enclosure from Broad Street is seen between the thermes and a part of the north side of the street.
An entrance to the enclosure from Broad Street is located between the thermal baths and a section of the north side of the street.
The collection of the Old Ashmolean Museum is removed to the Taylor Institution.
The collection of the Old Ashmolean Museum has been moved to the Taylor Institution.
Than his own university. Thebes captured his youthful innocence, He chooses Athens in his later years.
Dryden.
“Rome has been called the ‘Sacred City’—might not our Oxford be called so too? There is an air about it, resonant of joy and hope: it speaks with a thousand tongues to the heart: it weaves its mighty shadow over the imagination: it stands in lowly sublimity, on the ‘hill of ages,’ and points with prophetic fingers to the sky: it greets the eager gaze from afar, ‘with glistening spires and pinnacles adorned,’ that shine with an eternal light as with the lustre of setting suns; and a dream and a glory hover round its head, as the spirits of former times, a throng of intellectual shapes, are seen retreating or advancing to the eye of memory: its streets are paved with the names of learning that can never wear out: its green quadrangles breathe the silence of thought, conscious of the weight of yearnings innumerable after the past, of loftiest aspirations for the future: Isis babbles of the Muse, its waters are from the springs of Helicon, its Christ Church meadows, classic, Elysian fields!—We could pass our lives in Oxford without having or wanting any other idea—that of the place is enough. We imbibe the air of thought; we stand in the presence of learning. We are admitted into the Temple of Fame, we feel that we are in the Sanctuary, on holy ground, and ‘hold high converse with the mighty dead.’ The enlightened and[Pg 514] the ignorant are on a level, if they have but faith in the tutelary genius of the place. We may be wise by proxy, and studious by prescription. Time has taken upon himself the labour of thinking; and accumulated libraries leave us leisure to be dull. There is no occasion to examine the buildings, the churches, the colleges, by the rules of architecture, to reckon up the streets to compare it with Cambridge (Cambridge lies out of the way, on one side of the world)—but woe to him who does not feel in passing through Oxford that he is in ‘no mean city,’ that he is surrounded with the monuments and lordly mansions of the mind of man, outvying in pomp and splendour the courts and palaces of princes, rising like an exhalation in the night of ignorance, and triumphing over barbaric foes, saying, ‘All eyes shall see me, and all knees shall bow to me!’—as the shrine where successive ages came to pay their pious vows, and slake the sacred thirst of knowledge, where youthful hopes (an endless flight) soared to truth and good, and where the retired and lonely student brooded over the historic, or over fancy’s page, imposing high tasks for himself, framing high destinies for the race of man—the lamp, the mine, the well-head whence the spark of learning was kindled, its stream flowed, its treasures were spread out through the remotest corners of the land and to distant nations. Let him who is fond of indulging a dream-like existence go to Oxford, and stay there; let him study this magnificent spectacle, the same under all aspects, with the mental twilight tempering the glare of noon, or[Pg 515] mellowing the silver moonlight; let him not catch the din of scholars or teachers, or dine or sup with them, or speak a word to any of its privileged inhabitants; for if he does, the spell will be broken, the poetry and the religion gone, and the palace of enchantment will melt from his embrace into thin air!”
“Rome has been called the ‘Sacred City’—couldn’t our Oxford be called the same? There’s a vibe about it that resonates with joy and hope: it speaks to the heart in countless ways: it casts a powerful shadow over the imagination: it stands with humble majesty on the ‘hill of ages’ and points with prophetic fingers to the sky: it welcomes the eager gaze from afar, ‘with glistening spires and pinnacles adorned,’ that shine with an eternal light like the glow of setting suns; and a dream and a glory linger around it, as the spirits of past times, a crowd of intellectual figures, are seen retreating or advancing in the mind's eye: its streets are lined with the names of knowledge that will never fade: its green courtyards exude a silence of thought, aware of countless longings for the past, and lofty aspirations for the future: Isis speaks of the Muse, its waters flow from the springs of Helicon, its Christ Church meadows resemble classic, Elysian fields!—We could spend our lives in Oxford without needing or wanting any other idea—that of the place is enough. We absorb the atmosphere of thought; we stand in the presence of knowledge. We enter the Temple of Fame, feeling we are in the Sanctuary, on sacred ground, and ‘hold high converse with the mighty dead.’ The enlightened and[Pg 514] the ignorant are on equal footing, as long as they have faith in the protective spirit of the place. We can be wise through others, and studious by prescription. Time has taken on the work of thinking for us; the vast libraries give us the freedom to be uninspired. There’s no need to analyze the buildings, the churches, the colleges by architectural standards, to count the streets, or to compare it with Cambridge (Cambridge is off to the side, in another part of the world)—but woe to anyone who doesn’t feel while passing through Oxford that they are in ‘no mean city,’ that they are surrounded by monuments and grand houses of the human mind, outshining in grandeur the courts and palaces of princes, rising like a beacon in the darkness of ignorance, triumphing over barbaric foes, declaring, ‘All eyes shall see me, and all knees shall bow to me!’—as the shrine where successive ages came to make their devout wishes, and quench the sacred thirst for knowledge, where youthful hopes (an endless flight) soared toward truth and goodness, and where the solitary student contemplated history or indulged in fantasies, setting lofty challenges for himself, envisioning grand destinies for humanity—the lamp, the mine, the source from which the spark of learning was ignited, its flow spreading out through the farthest reaches of the land and to distant nations. Let anyone who enjoys living in dreams go to Oxford and stay there; let them study this magnificent sight, the same from every angle, with the mental twilight softening the glare of noon, or[Pg 515] mellowing the silver moonlight; let them not hear the noise of scholars or teachers, or share meals with them, or speak to any of its privileged residents; for if they do, the spell will be broken, the poetry and the reverence will vanish, and the palace of enchantment will dissolve from their grasp into thin air!”
Hazlitt.
Hazlitt.
“Oxford ... must remain its own sole expression; and those whose sad fortune it may be never to behold it have no better resource than to dream about grey, weather-stained, ivy-grown edifices, wrought with quaint Gothic ornament, and standing around grassy quadrangles, where cloistered walks have echoed to the quiet footsteps of twenty generations,—lawns and gardens of luxurious repose, shadowed with canopies of foliage, and lit up with sunny glimpses through archways of great boughs,—spires, towers, and turrets, each with its history and legend,—dimly magnificent chapels, with painted windows of rare beauty and brilliantly diversified hues, creating an atmosphere of richest gloom,—vast college halls, high-windowed, oaken-panelled, and hung around with portraits of the men in every age whom the University has nurtured to be illustrious,—long vistas of alcoved libraries, where the wisdom and learned folly of all time is shelved,—kitchens (we throw in this feature by way of ballast, and because it would not be English Oxford without its beef and beer) with huge fireplaces, capable of roasting a hundred joints at once,—and cavernous[Pg 516] cellars, where rows of piled-up hogsheads seethe and fume with that mighty malt-liquor which is the true milk of Alma Mater: make all these things vivid in your dream, and you will never know nor believe how inadequate is the result to represent even the merest outside of Oxford.”—Hawthorne.
“Oxford ... must remain its own unique expression; and those whose unfortunate fate it may be never to see it have no better option than to dream about grey, weathered, ivy-covered buildings, adorned with charming Gothic details, standing around grassy courtyards where cloistered paths have echoed with the quiet footsteps of twenty generations—lawns and gardens of luxurious relaxation, shaded by canopies of leaves, and illuminated by sunny glimpses through archways of large branches—spires, towers, and turrets, each with its own history and legend—dimly magnificent chapels, with stained glass windows of rare beauty and vibrant colors, creating an atmosphere of rich gloom—vast college halls, with tall windows, oak paneling, and decorated with portraits of the men in every era whom the University has raised to greatness—long hallways of alcoved libraries, where the wisdom and learned mistakes of all time are stored—kitchens (we mention this feature as a nod to tradition, as it wouldn’t be English Oxford without its beef and beer) with massive fireplaces capable of roasting a hundred joints at once—and cavernous[Pg 516] cellars, where rows of stacked barrels bubble and steam with that potent ale which is the true sustenance of Alma Mater: picture all these things vividly in your dream, and you will never know nor believe how inadequate is the result to even faintly represent the exterior of Oxford.”—Hawthorne.
“Beautiful city! so venerable, so lovely, so unravaged by the fierce intellectual life of our century, so serene!
“Beautiful city! So ancient, so lovely, so untouched by the intense intellectual life of our time, so peaceful!
And yet steeped in sentiment as she lies, spreading her gardens to the moonlight, and whispering from her towers the last enchantments of the Middle Age, who will deny that Oxford, by her ineffable charm, keeps ever calling us nearer to the true goal of all of us, to the ideal, to perfection,—to beauty, in a word, which is only truth seen from another side?—nearer, perhaps, than all the science of Tübingen. Adorable dreamer, whose heart has been so romantic! who hast given thyself so prodigally, given thyself to sides and to heroes not mine, only never to the Philistines! home of lost causes, and forsaken beliefs, and unpopular names, and impossible loyalties! whose example could ever so inspire us to keep down the Philistine in ourselves, what teacher could ever so save us from that bondage to which we are all so prone, that bondage which Goethe, in his incomparable lines on the death of Schiller, makes it his friend’s highest praise (and nobly did Schiller deserve the praise) to have left miles out of[Pg 517] sight behind him—the bondage of Was uns alle bändigt, DAS GEMEINE! She will forgive me, even if I have unwittingly drawn upon her a shot or two aimed at her unworthy son; for she is generous, and the cause in which I fight is, after all, hers. Apparitions of a day, what is our puny warfare against the Philistines, compared with the warfare which this queen of romance has been waging against them for centuries, and will wage after we are gone?”
And yet, as she lies drenched in emotion, spreading her gardens under the moonlight and whispering the last enchantments of the Middle Ages from her towers, who can deny that Oxford, with her unmatched charm, keeps calling us closer to our true goal, to the ideal, to perfection—to beauty, which is just truth viewed from another angle?—perhaps closer than all the science from Tübingen. Oh, lovely dreamer, whose heart has been so romantic! You have given yourself so generously, given yourself to causes and heroes that aren’t mine, but never to the Philistines! A home for lost causes, forsaken beliefs, unpopular names, and impossible loyalties! What example could better inspire us to keep the Philistine within us at bay? What teacher could better save us from that bondage we are all so prone to, that bondage which Goethe, in his unmatched lines about Schiller's death, makes his friend's highest praise (and Schiller truly deserved that praise) to have left miles out of sight behind him—the bondage of Was uns alle bändigt, DAS GEMEINE! She will forgive me, even if I’ve unintentionally aimed a shot or two at her unworthy son; for she is generous, and the cause I fight for is, after all, hers. Ghosts of a day, what is our tiny battle against the Philistines compared to the battle this queen of romance has been waging against them for centuries, and will continue to wage long after we are gone?
Matthew Arnold.
Matthew Arnold.
THE END
Printed by R. & R. Clark, Limited, Edinburgh.
[Pg 518]
THE END
Printed by R. & R. Clark, Limited, Edinburgh.
[Pg 518]

A COMPANION VOLUME TO ‘OXFORD’ IN MESSRS. BLACK’S SERIES OF BEAUTIFUL BOOKS
A COMPANION VOLUME TO ‘OXFORD’ IN MESSRS. BLACK’S SERIES OF BEAUTIFUL BOOKS
CAMBRIDGE
CAMBRIDGE
By M. A. R. TUKE JOINT AUTHOR OF ‘ROME’ IN THE SAME SERIES
By M. A. R. TUKE CO-AUTHOR OF ‘ROME’ IN THIS SERIES
Painted by W. MATTHISON
Painted by W. MATTHISON
SQUARE DEMY 8vo (9 × 6¼ INCHES), BOUND IN CLOTH, GILT TOP, CONTAINING 77 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR FACSIMILE
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SOME PRESS OPINIONS
PRESS REVIEWS
“Miss Tuker’s careful monograph has more abiding claims than those of a mere gift-book or souvenir.... She has produced a book of no little literary charm and of considerable character and individuality.”—Daily Telegraph.
“Miss Tuker’s detailed study holds more lasting value than just a simple gift book or keepsake.... She has created a work that is not only quite charming in its writing but also has a strong sense of character and uniqueness.”—Daily Telegraph.
“Mr. William Matthison’s charming coloured illustrations count for much in the volume’s attractiveness.... All are painted with a richness and sobriety of colour that accords well with the inner associations of the subject. With both text and pictures so good, the book will take a Cambridge man both by the head and by the heart.”—The Scotsman.
“Mr. William Matthison’s delightful colored illustrations contribute greatly to the book’s appeal.... All are painted with a richness and depth of color that aligns well with the themes of the subject. With such excellent text and illustrations, the book will engage both the intellect and the emotions of a Cambridge man.”—The Scotsman.
“The author has compiled most industriously what almost amounts to a handbook to the University.... This volume is illustrated delightfully in colour by Mr. William Matthison, whose art has realised and conveyed fully the beauty of the ‘Backs,’ and of college exteriors and interiors.... A book of much fascination and interest.”—The Globe.
“The author has worked hard to create what is almost a handbook for the University.... This volume is beautifully illustrated in color by Mr. William Matthison, whose artistry captures and conveys the beauty of the ‘Backs,’ as well as the exteriors and interiors of the colleges.... A book that is very captivating and interesting.”—The Globe.
“The book is satisfying. We feel we have seen Cambridge, and come away with a comfortable sense of having accumulated a number of interesting facts.”—Daily Mail.
“The book is enjoyable. We feel like we've explored Cambridge and left with a nice collection of interesting facts.”—Daily Mail.
PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. 4, 5 & 6 SOHO SQUARE. LONDON, W.
PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. 4, 5 & 6 SOHO SQUARE. LONDON, W.
OTHER VOLUMES ILLUSTRATED BY JOHN FULLEYLOVE
OTHER VOLUMES ILLUSTRATED BY JOHN FULLEYLOVE
MIDDLESEX
Middlesex
Painted by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I.
Created by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I.
Described by A. R. HOPE MONCRIEFF
Described by A. R. HOPE MONCRIEFF
CONTAINING 20 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
20 full-page color illustrations
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“Mr. Fulleylove’s score of pictures are beautiful, and combined with Mr. Moncrieff’s descriptions, should make many readers of this volume determine to see for themselves the neglected beauties of the nearest of the Home Counties.”—Daily Telegraph.
“Mr. Fulleylove’s collection of pictures is stunning, and along with Mr. Moncrieff’s descriptions, should inspire many readers of this book to go out and admire the overlooked charm of the closest Home Counties.” —Daily Telegraph.
THE TOWER OF LONDON
THE TOWER OF LONDON
Painted by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I.
Artwork by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I.
Described by ARTHUR POYSER
Described by ARTHUR POYSER
CONTAINING 20 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
20 Full-Page Color Illustrations
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“To ramble about in these places with so well-informed and chatty a guide is a real pleasure, and Mr. Fulleylove’s delicate colour-sketches, many of which take the reader yet closer to the unknown parts of the Tower, form another attraction of this interesting volume.”—Westminster Gazette.
“To wander around these places with such an informed and talkative guide is a true delight, and Mr. Fulleylove’s beautiful color sketches, many of which bring the reader even closer to the mysterious areas of the Tower, add another draw to this fascinating book.” —Westminster Gazette.
WESTMINSTER ABBEY
Westminster Abbey
Painted by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I.
Artwork by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I.
Described by MRS. A. MURRAY SMITH
Described by Mrs. A. Murray Smith
CONTAINING 20 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
20 full-page color illustrations
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“The authoress has written well already of the wonderful old Abbey, and her present text makes an admirable setting for a score of Mr. Fulleylove’s deft and artistic water-colour sketches, reproduced as they are, vividly and faithfully.”—Pall Mall Gazette.
“The author has already written beautifully about the amazing old Abbey, and her current text provides an excellent backdrop for a series of Mr. Fulleylove’s skillful and artistic watercolor sketches, reproduced here vividly and accurately.”—Pall Mall Gazette.
EDINBURGH
EDINBURGH
Painted by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I.
Created by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I.
Described by ROSALINE MASSON
Described by ROSALINE MASSON
CONTAINING 21 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
Featuring 21 full-page color illustrations
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“The pictures are exceedingly beautiful, Mr. Fulleylove’s work being reproduced by the three-colour process in an exceedingly fine way. The letterpress, written by the daughter of Dr. David Masson, provides full and interesting reading, in which every one will delight.”—Edinburgh Evening News.
“The pictures are incredibly beautiful, with Mr. Fulleylove’s work being reproduced in a really high-quality three-color process. The letterpress, written by Dr. David Masson’s daughter, offers engaging and insightful reading that everyone will enjoy.”—Edinburgh Evening News.
THE HOLY LAND
The Holy Land
Painted by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I.
Painted by JOHN FULLEYLOVE
Described by The Rev. JOHN KELMAN, M.A., D.D.
Described by The Rev. JOHN KELMAN, M.A., D.D.
CONTAINING 92 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS, MOSTLY IN COLOUR
CONTAINING 92 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS, MOSTLY IN COLOR
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“We do not suppose that there has ever been brought together before such a large and meritorious group of illustrations of scenes and people of Palestine.... To those who have been to Palestine Mr. Kelman’s book will recall much and suggest many new ideas. To those who have not it will give, perhaps, a more accurate impression of the land and the people than any other work on Palestine.”—Westminster Gazette.
“We don’t think there has ever been such a large and impressive collection of illustrations depicting scenes and people of Palestine before. For those who have visited Palestine, Mr. Kelman’s book will bring back memories and inspire many new thoughts. For those who haven’t been, it will likely provide a more accurate picture of the land and its people than any other work on Palestine.” —Westminster Gazette.
GREECE
Greece
Painted by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I.
Created by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I.
Described by The Rev. J. A. M’CLYMONT, M.A., D.D.
Described by Rev. J. A. M’CLYMONT, M.A., D.D.
CONTAINING 75 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
CONTAINING 75 FULL-PAGE COLOR ILLUSTRATIONS
SQUARE DEMY 8VO, CLOTH, GILT TOP
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Price 20s. net (Post free, 20/6)
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“A book in every way worthy of its inspiring subject. It is unnecessary to appraise Mr. Fulleylove’s technique, its soundness has been proved abundantly before, in this series as well as elsewhere.... Apart from the pictures the book is worth reading for its own sake.”—Daily Graphic.
“A book that is truly deserving of its inspiring subject. There's no need to evaluate Mr. Fulleylove’s technique; its effectiveness has already been clearly demonstrated before, in this series and elsewhere.... Besides the pictures, the book is worth reading just for itself.” —Daily Graphic.
PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. 4, 5 & 6 SOHO SQUARE. LONDON, W.
PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. 4, 5 & 6 SOHO SQUARE. LONDON, W.

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