This is a modern-English version of Modern Magic: A Practical Treatise on the Art of Conjuring, originally written by Hoffmann, Professor. It has been thoroughly updated, including changes to sentence structure, words, spelling, and grammar—to ensure clarity for contemporary readers, while preserving the original spirit and nuance. If you click on a paragraph, you will see the original text that we modified, and you can toggle between the two versions.

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Modern Magic.

A PRACTICAL TREATISE
ON
THE ART OF CONJURING.

A Practical Guide
ABOUT
THE ART OF MAGIC.

BY
PROFESSOR HOFFMANN.

BY
PROF. HOFFMANN.

With 318 Illustrations.

Featuring 318 illustrations.

WITH AN APPENDIX CONTAINING EXPLANATIONS OF SOME OF THE BEST KNOWN SPECIALTIES OF MESSRS. MASKELYNE AND COOKE.

WITH AN APPENDIX CONTAINING EXPLANATIONS OF SOME OF THE BEST KNOWN SPECIALTIES OF MESSRS. MASKELYNE AND COOKE.

Populus vult decipi: decipiatur.

The people want to be deceived: let them be deceived.

AMERICAN EDITION.

U.S. Edition.

GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS
London: Broadway, Ludgate Hill
New York: 9 Lafayette Place

George Routledge & Sons
London: Broadway, Ludgate Hill
New York: 9 Lafayette Place

By PROFESSOR HOFFMANN.

By Prof. Hoffmann.

PARLOR AMUSEMENTS and Evening Party Entertainments. 516 pages, 107 Illustrations. 12mo, cloth, $1.50.

PARLOR AMUSEMENTS and Evening Party Entertainment. 516 pages, 107 illustrations. 12mo, cloth, $1.50.

MODERN MAGIC. A Practical Treatise on the Art of Conjuring. With an Appendix containing explanations of some of the best known specialties of Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke. 578 pages, 318 Illustrations. Square 12mo, cloth, $1.50.

MODERN MAGIC. A Practical Guide to the Art of Conjuring. Includes an appendix with explanations of some of the most famous tricks by Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke. 578 pages, 318 illustrations. Square 12mo, cloth, $1.50.

TRICKS WITH CARDS. (Condensed from “Modern Magic.”) 142 pages, 50 Illustrations. Fancy boards, 12mo, 50 cents.

TRICKS WITH CARDS. (Condensed from “Modern Magic.”) 142 pages, 50 illustrations. Decorative hard cover, 12mo, 50 cents.

For Sale by Booksellers, or will be sent, postpaid, on receipt of price by the publishers,

Available at bookstores, or will be shipped, postage paid, upon receipt of payment from the publishers,

GEORGE ROUTLEDGE & SONS,
9 Lafayette Place, New York.

GEORGE ROUTLEDGE & SONS,
9 Lafayette Pl, New York.


v

v

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
Intro.
  PAGE
Introductory Observations 1
The Magic Wand 4
The Magician’s Table 5
The Magician’s Dress 8
Profondes 9
Pochettes 9
“Loading” Pockets 9
CHAPTER II.
Basic Principles of Sleight-of-Hand Used in Card Tricks.
The Cards 11
To “Make the Pass” 12
To “Force” a Card 21
To Make a “False Shuffle” 23
To “Palm” a Card 27
To “Ruffle” the Cards 27
To “Change” a Card 28
To Get Sight of a Drawn Card 34
To “Slip” a Card 35
To “Draw Back” a Card 36
To “Turn Over” the Pack 37
To Spring the Cards from one Hand to the Other 37
To Throw a Card 38
The “Bridge” 39
CHAPTER III.vi
Card Tricks with Regular Cards that Don’t Need Sleight of Hand.
Simple Modes of Discovering a Given Card 42
Various Modes of Disclosing a Discovered Card 44
To Make a Card Vanish from the Pack, and be found in a Person’s Pocket 46
To place the Four Kings in different parts of the Pack, and to bring them together by a simple Cut 47
The Four Kings being placed under the Hand of one Person, and the Four Sevens under the Hand of Another, to make them Change Places at Command 48
Four Packets of Cards having been formed face downwards on the Table, to discover the Total Value of the Undermost Cards 49
To Name all the Cards of the Pack in Succession 50
The Cards being Cut, to tell whether the Number Cut is Odd or Even 51
The Whist Trick. To deal yourself all the Trumps (see also page 119) 51
To allow a Person to think of a Card, and to make that Card appear at such Number in the Pack as another Person shall Name 52
The Cards revealed by the Looking-glass 53
To Guess Four Cards thought of by Different Persons 53
The Pairs Re-paired 54
The Magic Triplets 55
Another Mode of Discovering a Card thought of 55
To Guess, by the aid of a Passage of Poetry or Prose, such one of Sixteen Cards as, in your Absence, has been Touched or Selected by the Company 56
To Detect, without Confederacy, which of Four Cards has been Turned Round in your Absence 57
To Arrange Twelve Cards in Rows in such a manner that they will Count Four in every Direction 58
To Place the Aces and Court Cards in Four Rows, in such a manner that neither Horizontally nor Perpendicularly shall there be in either Row two Cards alike, either in Suit or Value 58
The Congress of Court Cards 59
CHAPTER IV.
Tricks that use sleight of hand or specially prepared cards.
The “Long Card” 60
Biseauté or Tapering Cards 60
Tricks Performed by the Aid of a Long Card, or biseauté Pack—vii
A Card having been Chosen and Returned, and the Pack Shuffled, to produce the Chosen Card instantly in various ways 62
To Cut at the Chosen Card 62
To Let all the Cards fall, save the One Chosen 62
To Pick out the Card, the Pack being placed in a Person’s Pocket 62
To Fling the Pack in the Air, and Catch the Chosen Card 63
To Change a Card drawn hap-hazard to the Chosen Card 63
To Divide the Pack into several Packets on the Table, allowing the Company to stop you at any Moment, and to cause the Top Card of the Heap last made to Change into the Chosen Card 65
To Teach the Company a Trick which they Learn without Difficulty; then to allow them to Succeed or cause them to Fail at your Pleasure 65
To Distinguish the Court Cards by Touch 69
To Name any Number of Cards in Succession without Seeing Them 70
To Make Four Cards change from Eights to Twos, from Black to Red, etc. 71
A Card having been Drawn and Returned, and the Pack Shuffled, to make it Appear at such Number as the Company choose 73
The same Trick with several Cards, and by a Different Method 75
The “Three Card” Trick 76
To Nail a Chosen Card to the Wall 77
The Inseparable Sevens 77
The Inseparable Aces 79
Having placed the Four Aces in different positions in the Pack, to make the two Black change places with the two Red ones, and finally to bring all Four together in the Middle of the Pack 80
A Card having been thought of, to make such Card Vanish from the Pack, and be Discovered wherever the Performer pleases 83
To cause a Number of Cards to Multiply invisibly in a Person’s keeping 84
The Pack being divided into two Portions, placed in the keeping of two different Persons, to make Three Cards pass invisibly from the One to the Other 86
To allow several Persons each to draw a Card, and the Pack having been Shuffled, to make another Card drawn haphazard change successively into each of those first chosen 87
To make Four Aces change to Four Kings, and Four Kings to Four Aces 90
Having made Four Packets of Cards with an Ace at the bottom of each, to bring all Four Aces into whichever Packet the Company may choose 91
To Change the Four Aces, held tightly by a Person, into Four Indifferent Cards 93
The Shower of Aces 97viii
Several Persons having each drawn Two Cards, which have been Returned and Shuffled, to make each Couple appear in Succession, one at the top and the other at the bottom of the Pack 99
To make Two Cards, each firmly held by a different Person, change places 101
To change Four Cards, drawn haphazard, and placed on the Table, into Cards of the same Value as a Single Card subsequently chosen by one of the Spectators 102
Two Heaps of Cards, unequal in Number, being placed upon the Table, to predict beforehand which of the two the Company will choose 103
A Row of Cards being placed Face Downwards on the Table, to indicate, by turning up one of them, how many of such Cards have during your absence been transferred from one end of the Row to the other 104
Several Cards having been freely chosen by the Company, Returned and Shuffled, and the Pack placed in a Person’s Pocket, to make such Person draw out one by one the chosen Cards 106
The Cards having been freely Shuffled, and cut into three or four Heaps, to name the top Card of each Heap 108
To allow a Person secretly to think of a Card, and, dividing the Pack into three Heaps, to cause the Card thought of to appear in whichever Heap the Company may choose 108
To allow a Person secretly to think of a Card, and, even before such Card is named, to select it from the Pack, and place it singly upon the Table 110
A Card having been secretly thought of by one of the Audience, to place two Indifferent Cards upon the Table, and to change such one of them as the Audience may select into the Card thought of 111
A Card having been Drawn and Returned, and the Pack shuffled, to divide the Pack into several Heaps on the Table, and to cause the Drawn Card to appear in such Heap as the Company may choose 114
To change a Drawn Card into the Portraits of several of the Company in succession 115
A Card having been Drawn and Returned, and the Pack shuffled, to place on the Table six Rows of six Cards each, and to discover the chosen Card by a throw of the Dice 116
A Card having been withdrawn and replaced, to call it from the Pack, and to make it come to you of its own accord 117
Mode of Preparing specially adhesive Wax for Conjuring Purposes 118
The Whist Trick. (Improved Method.) To deal yourself all the Trumps, the three other Players holding the usual mixed Hands 119
CHAPTER V.ix
Card Tricks with Special Tools.
The Magic Sword. A Card being drawn and replaced, and the Pack flung in the Air, to catch the chosen Card on the point of the Sword 121
The Rising Cards.—Several Cards having been drawn, returned, and shuffled, to make them rise spontaneously from the Pack 125
The Jumping Cards.—Two or three Cards having been drawn, returned, and shuffled, to make them jump out of the Pack 130
To make a Card stand upright by itself on the Table 132
“Changing” Card-boxes, and Tricks performed with them 134
The Mechanical Card-box 137
The “Card and Bird Box” 138
The Card Tripod 139
The “Torn Card” 139
Mechanical Changing Cards 142
CHAPTER VI.
Principles of Sleight-of-Hand Especially Relevant to Coin Tricks.
Palming 146
Passes 147
Changes 157
CHAPTER VII.
Coin Tricks without Equipment.
A Florin being spun upon the Table, to tell blindfold whether it falls head or tail upwards 159
Odd or Even, or the Mysterious Addition 160
To change a Florin into a Penny, back again, and then to pass the same invisibly into the Pocket of the Owner 161
To make a marked Florin and Penny, wrapped in separate Handkerchiefs, change places at Command 163
To make two marked Coins, wrapped in separate Handkerchiefs, come together in one of them 164
To pull Four Florins or Half-crowns through a Handkerchief 168
To pass a marked Florin (or Half-crown) into the Centre of two Oranges in succession 170
The Flying Money.—To make a Coin pass invisibly from the one Hand to the other, and finally through the Table 172
To rub One Sixpence into Three 175x
The Multiplication of Money 176
To Make a Marked Sixpence vanish from a Handkerchief, and be found in the Centre of an Apple or Orange previously examined 178
The Travelling Counters 180
The Wandering Sixpence 181
CHAPTER VIII.
Coin Tricks That Need Special Equipment.
The Heads and Tails Trick 182
The Magic Cover and Vanishing Halfpence 183
The Animated Coin, which answers Questions, etc. 185
Appliances for Vanishing Money—
The Vanishing Halfpenny Box 187
The Rattle Box 189
The Pepper-box 190
The Brass Money-box 191
The Brass Box, known as the “Plug-box” 192
The Handkerchief for Vanishing Money 194
The Demon Handkerchief 195
The Davenport Cabinet 195
Appliances for Re-producing Vanished Money—
The Nest of Boxes 197
The Ball of Berlin Wool 198
The Glass Goblet and Cover 199
The Glass without Cover 200
The Miraculous Casket 202
The Half-Crown or Florin Wand 203
The Shower of Money 205
The Vanishing Plate, or Salver 208
The “Changing” Plate 210
The Tray of Proteus 211
CHAPTER IX.
Watch Tricks.
To indicate on the Dial of a Watch the Hour secretly thought of by any of the Company 213
To Bend a Borrowed Watch Backwards and Forwards 214
The Watch-mortar and the Magic Pistol 215
The “Snuff-box Vase” 217
The “Watch Box” 219
The “Watch Target” 220
The Mesmerised Watch. (To Make any Watch a Repeater) 222
CHAPTER X.xi
Ring Tricks.
The Flying Ring 225
To Pass a Ring from the one Hand to either Finger of the other Hand 227
To Pass a Ring through a Pocket-handkerchief 228
To Pass a Ring through the Table 228
To Pass a Ring invisibly upon the Middle of a Wooden Wand, the Ends being held by two of the Spectators 230
The Magic Ball and Rings 231
To Pass a Borrowed Ring into an Egg 233
The Magic Rose 234
CHAPTER XI.
Handkerchief Tricks.
Introductory Remarks 236
The Handkerchief that cannot be Tied in a Knot 237
The Handkerchief that will not Burn 237
The Vanishing Knots 238
To Exchange a borrowed Handkerchief for a Substitute 240
The Locked and Corded Box, and the Washerwoman’s Bottle 241
The Reversible Canister 245
The Burning Globe 246
The Transformed Handkerchief 246
The Handkerchief cut up, burnt, and finally found in a Candle 249
The Shower of Sweets 251
The Feathers from an Empty Handkerchief 254
The Flying Plume 256
The Magic Laundry 258
The Egg and the Handkerchief 260
The “Hand-Box,” for Vanishing a Handkerchief 263
CHAPTER XII.
Domino and Dice Tricks.
To Arrange a Row of Dominoes face downwards on the Table, and on returning to the Room to turn up a Domino whose points shall indicate how many have been moved in your absence 265
To Allow any Person in your absence to arrange the Dominoes in a Row, face downwards, and on your return to name blindfold, or without entering the Room, the end numbers of the Row 267
To Change, invisibly, the Numbers shown on either Face of a Pair ofxii Dice 268
To Name, without seeing them, the Points of a Pair of Dice 269
CHAPTER XIII.
The Cups and Balls Game.
Introductory Remarks 271
Principles of Sleight-of-hand applicable to Ball Tricks—
To Palm the Ball 273
To Reproduce the Palmed Ball at the End of the Fingers 274
To Secretly Introduce the Palmed Ball under the Cup 275
To Simulate the Action of Placing a Ball under a Cup 276
To Produce a Ball from the Wand 276
To Return a Ball into the Wand 277
To Pass one Cup through Another 277
Burlesque Address to the Spectators 278
Pass I. Having Placed a Ball under each Cup, to draw it out again without Lifting the Cup 279
Pass II. To make a Ball Travel invisibly from Cup to Cup 281
Pass III. Having placed a Ball under each of the end Cups, to make them pass successively under the Middle Cup 282
Pass IV. Having placed two Balls under the Middle Cup, to make them pass under the two Outer Ones 283
Pass V. To pass three Balls in succession under One Cup 283
Pass VI. To place three Balls one after the other upon the top of one of the Cups, and to make them fall through the Cup on to the Table 284
Pass VII. To pass three Balls in succession upwards through the Table into one of the Cups 285
Pass VIII. To pass two Balls in succession from one Cup to another without touching them 286
Pass IX. To make three Balls in succession pass under the Middle Cup 286
Pass X. The “Multiplication” Pass 287
Pass XI. To Transform the Small Balls to Larger Ones 288
Pass XII. To again Transform the Balls to still Larger Ones 289
CHAPTER XIV.
Ball tricks needing special equipment.
Further principles of Sleight-of-hand applicable to Ball Tricks—
To Palm a large Ball 293
To Vanish a Large Ball with the aid of the Table 294
The Ball Box 295xiii
The Red-and-Black-Ball Vases 296
Morison’s Pill-box 298
The Ball which changes to a Rose 300
The Obedient Ball 301
CHAPTER XV.
Hat tricks.
The Cannon-balls in the Hat 304
Multiplying Balls 307
The “Hundred Goblets” from a Hat 308
A Dozen Babies from a Hat 309
The Magic Reticules 309
The Drums from the Hat 310
The Birdcages from the Hat 311
The Cake (or Pudding) in the Hat 312
The Welsh Rabbit 313
CHAPTER XVI.
Miscellaneous Tips.
The Cut String Restored 317
My Grandmother’s Necklace 320
The “Bonus Genius,” or Vanishing Doll 321
The Dancing Sailor 323
The Bottle Imps 324
The Vanishing Gloves 325
The Egg Bag 326
To Produce Eggs from a Person’s Mouth 329
The Pillars of Solomon, and the Magic Bradawl 330
The Magic Coffers 333
The Bran and Orange Trick 335
The Rice and Orange Trick 337
The Magic Whistle 341
The Magic Mill 342
Pieces of Apparatus of General Utility—
The Drawer-Box 343
The Dissecting Drawer-Box 346
The Changing Card-Drawer 347
Changing Caddies 348
The Magic Vase and Caddy 351
The Cover, to pick up and replace any Article 355
The Changing Cover 356
The Changing Ladle 358
The Cone, or Skittle 360xiv
The Cone and Bouquet 364
The Flying Glass of Water 367
The Bowls of Water and Bowls of Fire produced from a Shawl 371
The Bowl of Ink changed to clear Water, with Gold Fish swimming in it 372
The Inexhaustible Bottle 373
The Bottle and Ribbons 376
The New Pyramids of Egypt, or Wine and Wafer Trick 377
The Mysterious Funnel 379
The Box of Bran transformed to a Bottle of Wine 380
The Bran Bottle 382
The Bran Glass 383
To Fire Borrowed Rings from a Pistol, and make them Pass into a Goblet filled with Bran and covered with a Handkerchief, the Bran disappearing, and being found elsewhere 384
The Domino-Box (sometimes called the Glove-Box) 386
The Coffee Trick 388
The Inexhaustible Box 391
The Japanese Inexhaustible Boxes 393
The Feast of Lanterns 395
The Butterfly Trick 397
The Wizard’s Omelet 398
The Rose in the Glass Vase 400
The Chinese Rings 401
The Charmed Bullet 409
The Birth of Flowers 411
The Mysterious Salver 416
The Vanishing Die 419
The Die Dissolving in a Pocket Handkerchief 420
The Die and Orange 423
The Vanishing Canary Bird and Cage 424
The Crystal Balls 426
The Flags of all Nations 432
The Umbrella Trick 433
The “Passe-Passe” Trick 435
CHAPTER XVII.
Stage Magic.
The Tables in use in Stage Tricks 437
The “Plain” Trap 437
The “Wrist” or “Pressure” Trap 438
The “Rabbit” or “Dove” Trap 441
“Changing” Traps 442
The “Money” Trap 445xv
“Pistons” (for working mechanical apparatus) 447
“Bellows” Tables 449
The Rabbit Trick 452
The Fairy Star 454
The Card Bouquet 457
The Demon’s Head 458
The Magic Picture Frame 463
The Flying Watches and the Broken Plate 465
The Magic Picture and the Chosen Cards 467
The Magic Portfolio 468
The Glove Column 469
The Vanishing Pocket-handkerchief, found in a Candle 470
The Sphinx 471
The Cabinet of Proteus 475
The Indian Basket Trick 477
Electrical Tricks 480
The Light and Heavy Chest 482
Spirit-Rapping 485
The Magic Bell 486
The Crystal Cash Box 487
The Magic Drum 492
The Aërial Suspension 495
CHAPTER XVIII.
Final Thoughts.
Hints as to Working up Tricks 502
Arrangement of Programme 505
Stage Arrangements 508
Parting Counsels 510
APPENDIX.
CHAPTER I.
Introductory 515
CHAPTER II.
Kempelen.
Kempelen’s Speaking Figure 522
Its Construction 523
Houdin 524xvi
His Talking Figure 524
The Magic Harlequin and its Construction 524
The Magic Clock 526
The Performing Clown 526
The Cook of the Palais Royal 526
The Orange and Rose Trees 527
Electric Bell and Drum 528
Suspension in the Air 528
CHAPTER III.
The Odin.
Theodin 530
Robin and Anderson 530
The Magic Windmill 530
Anderson’s Old Man 531
Col. Stodare’s Living Head 531
Pepper and Tobin 532
Proteus; or, We’re Here and Not Here 532
Fatima 534
CHAPTER IV.
Automata: Mind.
Automaton of Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke 536
Psycho and its Imitators 536
Zoe 539
Fanfare 540
CHAPTER V.
Puppets.
Taking a Man to Pieces 542
The Living Marionettes 543
CHAPTER VI.
Psychic ability.
Clairvoyance, or Second Sight 545
The Clairvoyance of the Superstitious Ages and the Clairvoyance of the Day 546
Questions and Answers 547
The Reading of Concealed Writing 549
The Addition of Unseen Figures 550
CHAPTER VII.xvii
Spiritualism.
Spiritualism 551
Mediums and their Pretences 552
Their Tests 552
Various Tying Tests 552
The Sealed Accordion 553
Floating in the Air 554
Floating Tambourines, Guitars, etc. 555
The Spiritual Musical Box 555
Writing on the Ceiling 556
Invisible Writing 556
The Floating Table, etc. 557
CHAPTER VIII.
Parlor Magic.
Parlor Magic 558
A Surprise 559
Indian Sand Trick 559
The “Q” Trick 560
The Bleeding Thumb 560
The Marked Florin in Oranges 560
The Chinese Pictures 561
Bautier’s Great Ink-and-Water Trick 562
Carrying Fire in the Hands 563

1

1


Modern Magic.

CHAPTER I.
Introduction.

C

Considering the great antiquity and the unfading popularity of the magic art, it seems at first sight a matter of wonder that its literature should be so extremely scanty. In England, in particular, is this the case. Until within the last few years it would have been difficult to name a single book worth reading upon this subject, the whole literature of the art consisting of single chapters in books written for the amusement of youth (which were chiefly remarkable for the unanimity with which each copied, without acknowledgment, from its predecessors), and handbooks sold at the entertainments of various public performers, who took care not to reveal therein any trick which they deemed worthy of performance by themselves. Upon a little consideration, however, the scarcity of treatises on “White Magic” is easily accounted for. The more important secrets of the art have been known but to few, and those few have jealously guarded them, knowing that the more closely they concealed the clue to their mysteries, the more would those mysteries be valued. Indeed, the more noted conjurors of fifty years ago strove to keep the secret of their best tricks not only from the outside world, but from their confrères. At the present day the secrets of the art are not so well2 kept; and there is hardly a trick performed upon the stage which the amateur may not, at a sufficient expenditure of shillings or guineas, procure at the conjuring depôts. There being, therefore, no longer the same strict secresy, the literature of magic has improved a little, though it still leaves much to be desired. The general ambition of compilers seems to be to produce books containing nominally some fabulous number of tricks. In order to do this, they occupy two-thirds of their space with chemical and arithmetical recreations, and, as a necessary result, the portion devoted to conjuring tricks, properly so called, is treated so briefly and scantily as to be practically useless.

Thinking about the long history and enduring popularity of magic, it’s surprising that there isn’t more literature on the subject. This is especially true in England. Up until just a few years ago, it would have been hard to find a worthwhile book on the topic; the entire body of writing consisted of single chapters in books aimed at entertaining young people (which were mostly notable for how each one copied from its predecessors without giving credit) and handbooks sold at shows by various performers, who carefully left out any tricks they thought were too good to share. However, if you think about it, the lack of books on “White Magic” makes sense. The most important secrets of the craft have been known to only a select few, and those few have guarded these secrets jealously, understanding that the less they revealed, the more valuable those mysteries became. In fact, the most famous magicians from fifty years ago worked hard to keep their best tricks hidden not just from outsiders but from their peers as well. Nowadays, the secrets of magic aren’t kept as tightly under wraps; there’s hardly a trick performed on stage that an amateur can’t get their hands on with a decent amount of money. Because of the reduced secrecy, the literature on magic has improved somewhat, but it still falls short in many areas. Most compilers seem focused on producing books that claim to have an impressive number of tricks. To achieve this, they fill two-thirds of their pages with chemical and mathematical puzzles, which means the actual section on conjuring tricks is so brief and sparse that it’s practically useless.

There is a vast difference between telling how a trick is done and teaching how to do it. The existing treatises, with few exceptions, do the former only. The intention of the present work is to do the latter also; to teach sleight-of-hand generally, as well as particular tricks; and to conduct the neophyte from the very A B C of the magic art gradually up to those marvels which are exhibited on the public stage. The student may rest assured that, if he will diligently follow the instructions here given, he will be able in due time, not merely to astonish his friends extempore with a borrowed coin or pack of cards, but to roll two rabbits into one, compel chosen cards to rise spontaneously from the pack, produce lighted lanterns from empty hats, and bowls of gold-fish from empty pocket-handkerchiefs; in a word, to execute all those wonders which he has hitherto deemed the exclusive property of the public performer. There are, of course, different degrees of natural aptitude. “Non cuivis hominum contingit adire Corinthum.” It is not every one that can be a Robert-Houdin or a Buatier, but, given the usual number of fingers and thumbs, fair intelligence, and a sufficiency of perseverance, any one who will may become at least a tolerable conjuror. Be it remembered, that we especially stipulate for perseverance. A wizard is not to be made in a day, and he who would attain excellence must be content to proceed as he would with music, drawing, or any other accomplishment—viz., begin at the beginning, and practise diligently until he attains the coveted dexterity. The student need not, however, wait the termination of the somewhat formidable course of study we have indicated, before he begins to astonish his friends; on the contrary,3 there are numerous tricks requiring very little manual dexterity, which are yet, if neatly performed, brilliant in effect. These simpler tricks, for which we shall give full instructions, will supply the beginner, even at the outset, with a fair programme, which he may from time to time enlarge as he feels able to undertake more elaborate illusions.

There’s a big difference between explaining how a trick is done and actually teaching how to do it. Most existing guides, with a few exceptions, only do the former. This work aims to accomplish the latter; it seeks to teach general sleight of hand as well as specific tricks, and to guide beginners from the very basics of magic up to the incredible feats seen on stage. Students can be confident that if they carefully follow the instructions provided here, they will eventually be able to amaze their friends on the spot with a borrowed coin or deck of cards, make two rabbits appear as one, force chosen cards to rise from the deck, pull lit lanterns from empty hats, and produce bowls of goldfish from empty handkerchiefs. In short, they can perform all those amazing feats they thought were exclusive to professional performers. Of course, there are various levels of natural talent. “Non cuivis hominum contingit adire Corinthum.” Not everyone can be a Robert-Houdin or a Buatier, but with the usual number of fingers and thumbs, some intelligence, and enough perseverance, anyone can become at least a decent magician. It’s important to remember that we especially emphasize perseverance. A magician isn’t made in a day, and anyone who wants to achieve excellence must be willing to start from the beginning and practice diligently until they gain the desired skill. However, students don’t need to wait until they finish the somewhat demanding course of study we’ve outlined before they start amazing their friends; on the contrary,3 there are many tricks that require very little manual skill but can still be stunning if performed well. These simpler tricks, which we will provide full instructions for, will give beginners a solid program right from the start, which they can expand as they feel ready to tackle more complex illusions.

The first rule to be borne in mind by the aspirant is this: “Never tell your audience beforehand what you are going to do.” If you do so, you at once give their vigilance the direction which it is most necessary to avoid, and increase tenfold the chances of detection. We will give an illustration. There is a very good trick (which will be described at length hereafter) in which the performer, after borrowing a handkerchief, gives it to some one to hold. When it is returned, it proves to be torn into small pieces. It is again handed to the holder, who is instructed, in order to restore it, to rub it in a particular manner; but when again unfolded, it is found in a long strip. These effects are produced by successive adroit substitutions, and the whole magic of the trick consists in the concealment of the particular moment at which each substitution is effected. Now, if you were to announce to the audience beforehand that you were about to cause the handkerchief to appear in several pieces, or in a long strip, they would at once conjecture that the trick depended on an exchange, and their whole vigilance being directed to discover the moment of that exchange, you would find it all but impossible to perform the trick without detection. If, on the other hand, you merely roll up the handkerchief, and ask some one to hold it, the audience, not knowing what you are about to do, have no reason to suspect that you have handed him a substitute; and when the transformation is exhibited, the opportunity of detection will have already passed away.

The first rule for anyone aspiring to perform is this: “Never tell your audience what you're going to do ahead of time.” If you do, you immediately direct their attention to what you’re trying to hide, dramatically increasing the chances of them figuring it out. Let’s look at an example. There’s a great trick (which will be explained in detail later) where the performer borrows a handkerchief and gives it to someone to hold. When it comes back, it’s torn into small pieces. The holder is then instructed to rub it in a certain way to restore it, but when it’s unfolded again, it appears as a long strip. These effects happen through clever substitutions, and the magic lies in concealing exactly when each substitution takes place. Now, if you were to tell the audience in advance that you’re about to make the handkerchief appear in pieces or as a long strip, they would immediately suspect an exchange, and their attention would be completely focused on spotting that moment of exchange, making it almost impossible for you to perform the trick without being caught. On the other hand, if you simply roll up the handkerchief and ask someone to hold it, the audience won’t have any idea of your intentions, so they won’t suspect that you’ve handed them a substitute. By the time you reveal the transformation, the chance for them to figure it out will have already passed.

It follows, as a practical consequence of this first rule, that you should never perform the same trick twice on the same evening. The best trick loses half its effect on repetition, but besides this, the audience know precisely what is coming, and have all their faculties directed to find out at what point you cheated their eyes on the first occasion. It is sometimes hard to resist an encore, but a little tact will get you out of the difficulty, especially if you have studied, as every conjuror should4 do, the variation and combination of tricks. There are a score of different ways of vanishing a given article, and as many of reproducing it; and either one of the first may be used in conjunction with either of the second. Thus, by varying either the beginning or the end, you make the trick to some extent a new one. The power of doing this readily is very useful, and among other advantages will enable you to meet an encore by performing some other trick having some element of similarity to that which you have just completed, but terminating in a different and therefore unexpected manner.

It follows, as a practical result of this first rule, that you should never perform the same trick twice on the same evening. The best trick loses half its impact when repeated, and besides that, the audience knows exactly what to expect and is focused on figuring out where you tricked them the first time. It's sometimes hard to resist a encore, but with a little finesse, you can handle it, especially if you've studied, as every magician should4, the variety and combination of tricks. There are many different ways to make a specific item disappear, as well as ways to bring it back; and either way of making it vanish can be paired with either way of reproducing it. By varying either the start or the finish, you make the trick somewhat new. The ability to do this easily is very helpful and, among other benefits, allows you to respond to an encore by performing a different trick that shares some elements with the one you just finished, but ends in a different and therefore unexpected way.

The student must cultivate from the outset the art of “talking,” and especially the power of using his eyes and his tongue independently of the movement of his hands. To do this, it will be necessary to prepare beforehand not only what he intends to do, but what he intends to say, and to rehearse frequently and carefully even the simplest trick before attempting it in public. It is surprising how many little difficulties are discovered on first attempting to carry into effect even the clearest written directions; and nothing but practice will overcome these difficulties. The novice may be encouraged by assuming, as he safely may, that the most finished of popular performers was once as awkward as himself, and were he to attempt any unfamiliar feat, would probably be as awkward still.

The student needs to develop the skill of “talking” from the very beginning, particularly the ability to use his eyes and his tongue separately from the movements of his hands. To achieve this, he must prepare not only what he plans to do, but also what he plans to say, and practice regularly and thoroughly even the simplest trick before trying it in front of an audience. It's surprising how many small challenges come up when attempting to follow even the clearest written instructions; and only practice can help overcome these challenges. The beginner can feel encouraged by knowing that even the most skilled popular performers were once just as clumsy as he is, and if they were to try something new, they would likely still feel awkward.

Before proceeding to the practice of the magic art, it will be well to give a short description of two or three appliances, which are of such constant use that they may be said to form the primary stock-in-trade of every conjuror. These are—a short wand, a specially adapted table, and certain secret pockets in the magician’s dress. There are numerous other appliances of very general use, which will be explained in due course, but those we have named are so indispensable that we could hardly complete the description of half-a-dozen tricks of any pretension without a reference to one or other of them. First in order comes

Before diving into the practice of magic, it's helpful to provide a brief overview of two or three tools that are so frequently used that they can be considered essential for every magician. These include a short wand, a specially designed table, and certain hidden pockets in the magician's attire. There are many other widely used tools that will be discussed later, but the ones mentioned are so crucial that it's nearly impossible to describe even a handful of impressive tricks without mentioning at least one of them. First, we’ll start with

THE MAGIC WAND.

This is a light rod of twelve to fifteen inches in length, and about three-quarters of an inch in diameter. It may be of any material, and decorated in any manner which the fancy of the owner may dictate.5 To the uninitiated its use may appear a mere affectation, but such is by no means the case. Apart from the prestige derived from the traditional properties of the wand, and its use by the wizards of all ages, it affords a plausible pretext for many necessary movements, which would otherwise appear awkward and unnatural, and would thereby arouse the vigilance of the audience at possibly the most critical period of the trick. Thus, if the performer desires to hold anything concealed in his hand, by holding the wand in the same hand he is able to keep it closed without exciting suspicion. If it is necessary, as frequently happens, to turn his back upon the audience for an instant, the momentary turn to the table, in order to take up or lay down the wand, affords the required opportunity. We most strongly advise the would-be magician to cultivate from the outset the habitual use of the wand. Even where its employment is not absolutely necessary for the purpose of the trick, its use is in strict accordance with the character he professes to fill, and the dainty touch of the wand, for the supposed purpose of operating a magical transformation, assists materially in leading the audience to believe that such transformation did actually take place at that particular moment, instead of having been (as is really the case) secretly effected at an earlier period.

This is a light rod that’s about twelve to fifteen inches long and around three-quarters of an inch in diameter. It can be made of any material and decorated however the owner likes.5 To someone unfamiliar with it, its use might seem like just a showy gesture, but that's definitely not true. Aside from the prestige that comes from its traditional associations and its use by wizards throughout history, it provides a plausible excuse for many necessary movements that would otherwise seem awkward and could make the audience suspicious, especially during a critical moment in the trick. For instance, if the performer wants to hide something in their hand, holding the wand in the same hand allows them to keep it closed without raising any suspicion. If it’s necessary to briefly turn away from the audience, the quick movement to the table to pick up or set down the wand gives the needed chance. We highly recommend that anyone aspiring to be a magician develops a habitual use of the wand right from the start. Even when it's not absolutely essential for the trick, using it aligns with the character they claim to portray, and the delicate motion of the wand, meant to suggest a magical transformation, helps convince the audience that the transformation truly happened at that moment, rather than being secretly done earlier.

The next appliance to which we must draw the student’s attention is

The next device we need to highlight for the student is

THE MAGICIAN’S TABLE.

There are plenty of good minor tricks which may be performed anywhere, and with little or no previous preparation, but as soon as the student has outgrown these humbler feats, and aspires to amuse his friends or the public with a pre-arranged séance, his first necessity will be a proper table. We do not now refer to the elaborate combination of traps, pistons, etc., which is used for stage performances. This will be duly described in its proper place. The table necessary for an average drawing-room exhibition differs from an ordinary table in two points only—its height, which should be six or eight inches greater than that of an ordinary table—and the addition of a hidden shelf or ledge at the back. Its form and dimensions are very much6 a matter of fancy and convenience. For most purposes nothing is better than a plain oblong deal table. It should have turned legs of some harder wood, stained and polished, and these, if it is desired to make the table portable, should be screwed into the four corners, so as to be readily taken off and put on again as may be required. In length the table may be three to four feet, and in breadth eighteen inches to two feet. Three feet by twenty inches is a very convenient size. At the back should be placed, about six inches below the level of the top of the table, a projecting shelf, six to eight inches in width, and extending nearly from end to end. This shelf, which is technically known as the servante, should be covered with thick woollen cloth, in order to deaden the sound of any object falling on it.

There are plenty of good minor tricks that can be done anywhere, with little or no prior preparation. But once the student has moved beyond these simpler acts and wants to entertain friends or the public with a planned séance, the first thing they’ll need is a proper table. We’re not talking about the complex setups with traps, pistons, etc., used for stage performances—that will be covered in detail later. The table needed for an average drawing-room show differs from a regular table in just two ways: its height, which should be six to eight inches taller than a standard table, and the addition of a hidden shelf or ledge at the back. Its shape and size are mostly dependent on personal preference and practicality. For most uses, a simple rectangular deal table works best. It should have turned legs made of a harder wood, stained and polished, and if you want to make the table portable, the legs should be screwed into the four corners, so they can be easily removed and reattached as needed. The table should be three to four feet long and eighteen inches to two feet wide. A size of three feet by twenty inches is very convenient. At the back, there should be a shelf that projects about six inches below the top of the table, six to eight inches wide, stretching nearly from one end to the other. This shelf, known as the servante, should be covered with thick woolen cloth to muffle the sound of anything falling on it.

Some performers have a rim about half an inch high running along the outer edge of this shelf; while others, in place of the shelf, use a wooden tray, fixed in the same position, and one to two inches in depth. The manner of fixing the shelf is optional. In some tables it is made to slide in and out like a drawer; in others to fold up on hinges against the back of the table, or itself to form the back. This latter is the most convenient mode, as the opening made by the flap when let down gives access to the interior of the table, which forms a convenient receptacle for necessary articles. In this case, the upper part of the table is made box fashion; i.e., is bottomed throughout with wood on a level with the hinges of the servante, giving an enclosed space under the whole extent of the table. Over the table should be thrown an ordinary cloth table-cover, of such a size as to hang down about ten or fifteen inches at the front and sides, but not more than an inch or so on the side away from the audience. To prevent its slipping, the cloth may be fastened on this side with a couple of drawing pins. Where traps are used, and the cloth has therefore to be cut, the hanging cloth is dispensed with, and the table is covered with cloth glued on the top, with a margin round it, after the fashion of a card-table, and this may be done, if preferred, even where the table is without mechanism. The adoption of this plan allows of the introduction of gold mouldings, or other ornamentation, on the front and sides. In our own opinion, unless there is some special reason to the contrary in the mechanical arrangements of the table, the plain7 hanging cover is preferable, as being least suggestive of apparatus or preparation. The precise height of the table is best determined by the stature of the performer. The servante, or hidden shelf, should be just so high from the ground as to be level with the knuckles of the performer as his arm hangs by his side; and the top of the table should, as already stated, be about six inches higher than this. It will be found that this height will enable the performer secretly to take up or lay down any article thereon without stooping or bending the arm, either of which movements would suggest to the spectators that his hand was occupied in some manner behind the table. One of the first tasks of the novice should be to acquire the power of readily picking up or laying down any article on the servante, without making any corresponding movement of the body, and especially without looking down at his hands. If the performer is uncertain as to the precise whereabouts of a given article, he must ascertain it by a quick glance as he approaches his table, and not after he has placed himself behind it. From this moment he must not again look down, as if once the audience suspect that he has a secret receptacle behind his table, half the magic of his tricks is thenceforth destroyed.

Some performers have a rim about half an inch high that runs along the outer edge of this shelf; while others use a wooden tray, secured in the same spot, and one to two inches deep instead of a shelf. How the shelf is fixed is up to the performer. In some tables, it slides in and out like a drawer; in others, it folds up on hinges against the back of the table or itself forms the back. This last option is the most convenient, as the opening made by the flap when lowered provides access to the interior of the table, which serves as a handy storage space for necessary items. In this case, the upper part of the table is built like a box, meaning it's fully bottomed with wood level with the hinges of the servante, creating an enclosed space under the entire table. On top of the table, there should be a regular cloth table cover that is large enough to hang down about ten to fifteen inches at the front and sides, but no more than an inch or so on the side away from the audience. To keep it in place, the cloth can be secured on this side with a couple of drawing pins. If traps are used and thus the cloth needs to be cut, the hanging cloth isn’t necessary, and the table can be covered with cloth glued on top, leaving a margin around it, similar to a card table. This can also be done even if the table doesn’t have any mechanisms. Using this method allows for gold moldings or other decorations on the front and sides. In our opinion, unless there is a specific reason against it due to the table's mechanical setup, the simple hanging cover is preferable, as it is less suggestive of apparatus or preparation. The ideal height of the table should be determined by the height of the performer. The servante, or hidden shelf, should be positioned so that it's level with the knuckles of the performer when their arm hangs by their side; and the top of the table should be about six inches higher than this. This height allows the performer to secretly pick up or set down any item without stooping or bending their arm, as either of these movements would suggest to the audience that their hand was busy in some way behind the table. One of the first things a novice should learn is how to easily pick up or set down any item on the servante without moving their body correspondingly and especially without looking down at their hands. If the performer isn't sure where a specific item is located, they should check it with a quick glance as they approach the table, not after they’ve positioned themselves behind it. From that moment on, they must not look down again, as once the audience suspects there’s a secret storage space behind the table, half the magic of their tricks is lost.

An oblong box, twelve or fourteen inches in length by three in depth, well padded with wadding, and placed on the servante, will be found very useful in getting rid of small articles, such as coin, oranges, etc., as such articles may be dropped into the box without causing any sound, and therefore without attracting attention.

An oblong box, about twelve or fourteen inches long and three inches deep, well padded with stuffing, and placed on the servante, is really handy for disposing of small items like coins, oranges, and so on, since those items can be dropped into the box quietly, thus not drawing any attention.

In default of a table regularly made for the purpose, the amateur may with little difficulty adapt an ordinary table for use as a makeshift. A common library or kitchen table having a drawer on one side, and raised on four bricks or blocks of wood to the requisite height will answer the purpose very fairly. The table must be covered with a cloth; and should have the drawer pulled out about six inches (the drawer side being, of course, away from the audience) to form the servante. A still better extempore conjuring table may be manufactured in a few minutes with the aid of a good-sized folding bagatelle board. Place the shut-up board on a card or writing table (which should be six or eight inches shorter than the board), in such manner that there may be left behind it (on the side8 which is intended to be farthest from the audience), a strip of table six or seven inches in width. This will form the servante. Throw an ordinary cloth table-cover over the bagatelle board, letting it hang down a foot or eighteen inches in front, and tucking its opposite edge under the hinder edge of the board, whose weight will prevent it slipping. If the cloth is too large, it must be folded accordingly before placing it on the table. The table thus extemporized will be of a convenient height, and will answer very fairly for the purposes of an ordinary drawing-room performance.

If you don't have a proper table for the job, you can easily turn a regular table into a temporary one. A standard library or kitchen table with a drawer on one side, lifted on four bricks or blocks of wood to the right height, works pretty well. The table should be covered with a cloth, and the drawer should be pulled out about six inches (with the drawer side facing away from the audience) to create the servante. An even better makeshift conjuring table can be put together quickly with a good-sized folding bagatelle board. Place the folded board on a card or writing table (which should be six or eight inches shorter than the board) in such a way that there’s a strip of table six or seven inches wide left behind it (on the side meant to be farthest from the audience). This will serve as the servante. Drape an ordinary cloth table cover over the bagatelle board, allowing it to hang down a foot or eighteen inches in front, and tuck the opposite edge under the back edge of the board, which will keep it from slipping. If the cloth is too large, fold it before placing it on the table. This makeshift table will be the right height and will work quite well for a standard drawing-room performance.

The conjuror, however, may be called upon to give a sample of his art when neither regular nor extemporized table is available; and even where he is sufficiently provided in this respect, he will frequently have occasion to produce or get rid of a given article without retiring behind his table to do so. The wizards of a century ago met this necessity by wearing openly in front of them a sort of bag or apron, called in the parlance of the French conjurors, a gibecière, from its supposed resemblance to a game-bag. This was used not only to carry the cups and balls, and other minor paraphernalia of the art, but for the purpose of procuring, exchanging, or getting rid of any small article at the pleasure of the performer. In fact, this bag supplied the place of the servante, which was not then known. It is hardly necessary to observe that the gibecière has been long since disused, and a performer who should now appear in a pocketed apron would run much risk of being taken for a hairdresser. Although, however, the gibecière is not now, as of old, worn openly, the conjuror of the present day is provided with certain secret substitutes, to explain which it is necessary to say a few words as to

The magician might be asked to demonstrate his skills when there’s no regular table or makeshift one available. Even when he does have a proper setup, he often needs to produce or dispose of an item without stepping away from his table. Magicians a century ago handled this issue by wearing a kind of bag or apron in front of them, called a gibecière, because it looked like a game bag. This was used not only to hold the cups, balls, and other small tools of the trade but also to retrieve, swap, or dispose of any small item as the performer desired. Essentially, this bag served the function of the servante, which was not yet in use. It’s worth noting that the gibecière has long been abandoned, and a performer showing up in a pocketed apron today would likely be mistaken for a barber. However, even though the gibecière is no longer worn openly, modern magicians use certain secret alternatives, which requires mentioning a few details about

THE MAGICIAN’S DRESS.

It is not very many years since the orthodox dress of the conjuror was a long and flowing robe, embroidered more or less with hieroglyphic characters, and giving ample space for the concealment of any reasonable sized article—say from a warming-pan downwards. The very last specimen of such a garment, to the best of our belief, is, or was, worn by the magician attached to the Crystal Palace. We do not know whether he is compelled by the regulations of the establishment9 to wear such a robe; but if so, it ought to be liberally considered in his salary. The costume de rigueur of the magician of the present day is ordinary “evening dress.” The effect of the feats performed is greatly heightened by the close fit and comparative scantiness of such a costume, which appears to allow no space for secret pockets or other place of concealment. In reality, however, the magician is provided with two special pockets, known as profondes, placed in the tails of his dress-coat. Each is from four to six inches in depth and seven in width, and the opening, which is across the inside of the coat-tail, slanting slightly downwards from the centre to the side, is, like the servante, so placed as to be just level with the knuckles of the performer, as his hand hangs by his side. He can thus, by the mere action of dropping either hand to his side, let fall any article instantly into the profonde on that side, or take anything from thence in like manner. The action is so natural, that it may be used under the very eyes of the audience, at very small risk of their observing it; and if the performer at the same moment slightly turns his other side to the spectators, he may be perfectly secure from detection. Some performers have also a couple of pochettes (small pockets) made in the trousers, one behind each thigh. These are generally used for purposes of production only, the profondes being still employed for getting rid of any article, which, indeed, is their primary purpose, for they were originally made too deep (‘profonde,’ whence their name) to get articles easily out of them. Many professors, in addition to the pockets above mentioned, have also a spacious pocket, opening perpendicularly, inside the breast of the coat, under each arm, for the purpose of what is called “loading,” i.e., bringing a rabbit, or other article, into a hat, etc. Other pockets may be added, as the fancy or invention of the performer may dictate; but the above are those generally used.

It hasn't been long since traditional magician attire was a long, flowing robe, often decorated with hieroglyphic designs, which provided plenty of space to hide various items—like a warming pan or similar size. The last known example of such a robe, to our knowledge, was worn by the magician at the Crystal Palace. We’re not sure if he’s required by the venue’s rules to wear this robe; if he is, his salary should reflect that. Nowadays, magicians typically wear ordinary “evening dress.” The impact of their tricks is greatly enhanced by the snug fit and relative lack of material in this type of outfit, which seems to leave no room for secret pockets or hidden storage. In reality, though, magicians are equipped with two special pockets, called profondes, located in the tails of their dress coats. Each pocket is four to six inches deep and seven inches wide, with an opening that runs along the inside of the coat-tail, slanting slightly downward from the center to the side. This positioning allows the opening to be at knuckle level when the magician's hand hangs down, enabling them to drop any item into the profonde on that side or retrieve something from it naturally. This movement is so instinctive that it can be done right in front of the audience with minimal chance of being noticed; if the performer subtly turns away from the spectators at that moment, they can avoid detection completely. Some performers even have a couple of pochettes (small pockets) sewn into their trousers, one behind each thigh, generally used for bringing items into play, while the profondes are primarily used to dispose of items, which is their main function since they were originally made too deep (‘profonde’ is where the name comes from) to easily retrieve things. Many magicians also have a roomy pocket inside the breast of their coat, under each arm, that opens vertically for what’s called "loading," meaning bringing a rabbit or another item into a hat, etc. Additional pockets can be added based on the performer’s creativity or needs, but the ones mentioned above are the most commonly used.

It will also be found a great convenience to have an elastic band, about an inch in width, stitched around the lower edge of the waistcoat on the inside. When the waistcoat is in wear, the band makes it press tightly round the waist, and any object of moderate size—a card, or pack of cards, a handkerchief, etc.—may be slipped under it without the least risk of falling. Used in conjunction with the pockets before described, this elastic waistband affords a means of instantaneously effecting “changes” of articles too large to be palmed with10 safety; one hand dropping the genuine article into the profonde on that side, while the other draws the prepared substitute from under the waistband, a very slight turn of the body, towards the table or otherwise, sufficing to cover the movement.

It’s really handy to have an elastic band, about an inch wide, stitched around the inside lower edge of the waistcoat. When you’re wearing the waistcoat, the band holds it snugly around your waist, allowing you to slip in something of moderate size—a card, a pack of cards, a handkerchief, etc.—without the slightest chance of it falling out. When used with the pockets mentioned earlier, this elastic waistband provides a quick way to switch out items that are too large to palm safely; one hand can drop the real item into the pocket on that side while the other pulls out the prepared substitute from under the waistband, a slight turn of the body towards the table or otherwise being enough to hide the movement.10

With these few preliminary observations, we proceed to the practice of the art, commencing with the ever-popular class of illusions performed by the aid of playing cards.

With these few initial thoughts, we now move on to the practice of the art, starting with the always-popular category of tricks done with playing cards.


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CHAPTER II.
Basic Principles of Sleight-of-Hand for Card Tricks.

Among the various branches of the conjuror’s art, none will better repay the labour of the student, whether artist or amateur, than the magic of cards. It has the especial advantage of being, in a great measure, independent of time and place. The materials for half its mysteries are procurable at five minutes’ notice in every home circle; and, even in the case of those tricks for which specially prepared cards, etc., are requisite, the necessary appliances cost little, and are easily portable—two virtues not too common in magical apparatus. Further, the majority of card tricks are dependent mainly on personal address and dexterity, and, as such, will always be highly esteemed by connoisseurs in the art. Before very large audiences, indeed, the spectators being at a distance from the performer, much of the effect of a card trick is lost; which is probably the reason that, of late years, tricks of this class (with a few exceptions) have been rather neglected by professors; and that many feats which in the times of Conus and Comte were numbered among the sensations of the day, are now almost entirely forgotten. We shall endeavour in the following pages, after explaining the principles of sleight-of-hand applicable to cards, and giving instructions for some of the best of the more commonplace feats, to revive the recollection—and, we hope, the practice—of some of these brilliant performances.

Among the different branches of magic, none will reward the effort of the student, whether professional or hobbyist, more than card magic. It has the unique benefit of being largely independent of time and location. Most of the materials needed for half its secrets can be found within minutes in any home; and even for those tricks that require special cards, the necessary items are inexpensive and easily portable—two qualities that aren't very common in magic tools. Furthermore, most card tricks rely mainly on the performer’s presentation and skill, which means they will always be highly valued by enthusiasts of the craft. In front of large audiences, however, where spectators are far from the performer, much of the impact of a card trick is diminished; this is likely why, in recent years, tricks of this kind (with a few exceptions) have been somewhat overlooked by professionals, and many feats that were once the talk of the town in the days of Conus and Comte are now nearly forgotten. In the following pages, we aim to explain the principles of sleight of hand applicable to cards and provide instructions for some of the best and more straightforward tricks, in hopes of reviving the memory—and, we hope, the practice—of some of these impressive performances.

The Cards.—The adept in sleight-of-hand should accustom himself to the use of every description of cards, as frequently none but the ordinary full-sized playing cards may be available. Where, however, the choice is open to him, he should use in the actual performance12 of tricks, cards of a smaller and thinner make. The common French cards answer the purpose very well. Among cards of English make, some of the best for the purpose are the small cards of the French pattern made by De La Rue & Co. for use in France, and those known as the “Tankerville” cards, both imported by Peck & Snyder, 124 Nassau Street, New York City, which are thin, well made, and of small size, but of the English pattern. In any case, it is well to use only the piquet pack of thirty-two cards (the twos, threes, fours, fives, and sixes being removed), the complete whist pack being inconveniently bulky for sleight-of-hand purposes.

The Cards.—Someone skilled in sleight-of-hand should get used to using all types of cards, as often only standard full-sized playing cards will be available. However, when he has the option, he should use smaller and thinner cards during performances12. Common French cards work well for this purpose. Among English cards, some of the best options are the small French pattern cards made by De La Rue & Co. for use in France, and the ones known as the “Tankerville” cards, both imported by Peck & Snyder, 124 Nassau Street, New York City. These are thin, well-made, and small, but they're of the English pattern. In any case, it's best to use only the piquet pack of thirty-two cards (removing the twos, threes, fours, fives, and sixes), since the full whist pack is too bulky for sleight-of-hand techniques.

Fig. 1.

To Make the Pass. (Sauter la coupe).—The effect of this sleight, which is the very backbone of card-conjuring, is to reverse the respective positions of the top and bottom halves of the pack, i.e., to make those cards which at first formed the lower half of the pack, come uppermost, when those cards which at first formed the upper half will of course be undermost. It is used by card-sharpers, immediately after the cards have been cut, to replace them in the position which they occupied before the cut, and from this circumstance derives its French name. There are various methods of producing this effect, some requiring the use of both hands, some of one hand only. These we shall describe in due order.

To Make the Pass. (Sauter la coupe).—The effect of this trick, which is the very foundation of card magic, is to switch the positions of the top and bottom halves of the deck, i.e., to bring the cards that were originally in the lower half to the top, while the cards that were in the upper half will now be at the bottom. Card hustlers use this technique right after the cards have been cut to return them to their

Fig. 2.
Fig. 3.

First Method. (With both hands).—Hold the pack in the left hand, lengthways, with the face downwards, as if about to deal at any game. In this position the thumb will naturally be on the left side of the pack, and the four fingers on the other. Insert the top joint of the little finger immediately above those cards which are to be brought to the top of the pack (and which are now undermost),13 and let the remaining three fingers close naturally on the remaining cards, which are now uppermost. (See Fig. 1.) In this position you will find that the uppermost part of the pack is held between the little finger, which is underneath, and the remaining fingers, which are upon it. Now advance the right hand, and cover the pack with it. Grasp the lower portion of the pack lengthways between the second finger at the upper and the thumb at the lower end, the left thumb lying, slightly bent, across the pack. Press the inner edge of the lower packet into the fork of the left thumb, so that the two packets will be as shown in Fig. 2. Next draw away the upper packet, by slightly extending the fingers of the left hand, at the same time lifting up the outer edge of the lower packet, till the edges of the two packets just clear each other (see Fig. 3), when by the mere act of closing the left hand they will be brought together as at first, save that they will have changed places. Do this at first very slowly, aiming only at neatness and noiselessness of execution. At the outset the task will be found somewhat difficult, but gradually the hands will be found to acquire a sort of sympathetic action; the different movements which we have above described will melt, as it were, into one, and the two packets will change places with such lightness and rapidity that they will seem to actually pass through each other. A slight momentary depression and elevation of the hands (apparently a mere careless gesture) in the act of making the pass will completely cover the transposition of the cards, which in the hands of an adept is invisible, even to the most watchful spectator.

First Method. (With both hands).—Hold the deck in your left hand, lengthwise, with the face down, as if you're about to deal for any game. In this position, your thumb will naturally be on the left side of the deck, and your four fingers on the other side. Place the top joint of your little finger just above the cards that you want to bring to the top of the deck (which are currently at the bottom),13 and let the other three fingers naturally close around the rest of the cards, which are now on top. (See Fig. 1.) In this position, you’ll find that the upper part of the deck is held between your little finger (underneath) and your other fingers (on top). Now move your right hand forward and cover the deck with it. Grip the bottom part of the deck lengthwise between your second finger at the top and your thumb at the bottom, with your left thumb lying slightly bent across the deck. Press the inner edge of the lower packet into the fork of your left thumb, so that the two packets look like they do in Fig. 2. Next, pull away the upper packet by slightly extending the fingers of your left hand, while lifting the outer edge of the lower packet until the edges of the two packets just clear each other (see Fig. 3), at which point, by simply closing your left hand, they will come back together like before, except that they will have switched places. Start off very slowly, focusing only on being neat and quiet as you execute it. At first, this will be somewhat challenging, but gradually you’ll find that your hands develop a sort of synchronized action; the different movements described above will blend into one, and the two packets will switch places with such ease and speed that it will seem like they actually passed through one another. A slight momentary lowering and raising of the hands (seeming like a careless gesture) while making the switch will completely disguise the changing of the cards, which, in the hands of an expert, is invisible, even to the most observant spectator.

The above is the most orthodox and the most perfect method of14 making the pass, and if the student be proficient in this, he need trouble himself very little about the remaining methods, which are inserted chiefly for the sake of completeness, being very inferior in all respects. Wherever in the course of this book the student is directed to make the pass, this first method will be considered to be referred to, unless otherwise specially expressed.

The above is the most traditional and most effective method of14 making the pass, and if the student is skilled in this, they don't need to worry much about the other methods, which are included mainly for thoroughness and are significantly less effective. Whenever the student is instructed to make the pass in this book, this first method will be the one referred to, unless stated otherwise.

Before quitting the subject of this method, we should mention that it is sometimes necessary to cause the two halves of the pack to ‘kiss,’ i.e., to bring them face to face. This is effected by turning the original upper packet face upwards in the act of bringing the transposed packets together. When the pass in the ordinary form is fairly mastered, this slight variation will occasion no additional difficulty.

Before moving on from this method, we should note that it's sometimes needed to make the two halves of the pack ‘kiss,’ i.e., to bring them face to face. This is done by turning the original upper packet face up while bringing the transposed packets together. Once you have a solid grasp of the standard pass, this small variation won’t add any extra difficulty.

In this, as in all other branches of prestidigitation, the student will find it of the greatest possible advantage to practise before a looking-glass. By this means, better than any other, he will be enabled to judge how far his movements succeed in deceiving the eyes of a spectator. One caution may here be given with advantage: the student of legerdemain must learn to perform all necessary movements without looking at his hands, unless for some special reason he desires the spectators to look at them also. In every case, wherever the performer desires his audience to look, his own eyes must take that particular direction; and wherever he desires his audience not to look, he himself must carefully abstain from looking. Let us suppose, for instance, that a person has drawn a card, and has replaced it in the middle of the pack. The performer desires to bring it to the top, for which purpose it is necessary to introduce the little finger above the card in question, and to make the pass, as above15 described. When the card is replaced in the pack, the eyes of the drawer are naturally directed towards it; and if the performer were himself to look downward at the cards, it would multiply tenfold the chances of detection. He should pause for a moment, and, looking full at the person who drew the card, ask, “You are certain that you will know that card again?” or make any similar observation. As he speaks, a natural impulse will draw the eyes of the audience to his own face, and he may then make the pass without the slight necessary movement attracting the least attention. It is hard to believe, until tested by actual experience, what apparently obvious movements may be executed under the very noses of an audience, if only their attention is diverted at the right moment by a dexterous use of the eye and voice of the operator.

In this, like in all other areas of magic, the student will find it extremely beneficial to practice in front of a mirror. This method, more than any other, will help him assess how well his actions deceive the audience's eyes. One important tip to remember is that the student of sleight of hand must learn to perform all necessary movements without looking at his hands, unless there’s a specific reason for him to draw the audience’s attention to them as well. In every situation, whenever the performer wants the audience to look at something, his own gaze must follow that direction; and whenever he wants them not to look, he must consciously avoid looking himself. For example, let’s say someone has drawn a card and placed it back in the middle of the deck. The performer wants to move it to the top, which requires placing his little finger above the card and performing the move as previously described. When the card is replaced, the person who drew it will naturally be looking at it; if the performer looks down at the cards, it would significantly increase the chances of being caught. Instead, he should take a moment, look directly at the person who drew the card, and ask, “Are you sure you’ll recognize that card again?” or something similar. As he speaks, the audience's natural instinct will draw their attention to his face, allowing him to make the move without the slight necessary motion drawing any attention. It’s hard to believe, until experienced firsthand, how seemingly obvious actions can be carried out right under the audience’s noses if their attention is skillfully redirected at the right moment through the performer’s eye contact and voice.

Fig. 4.

Second Method.—(With both hands).—Holding the pack in the left hand, as directed for the first method, grasp as before the lower portion of the pack lengthways between the second finger at the upper end and the thumb at the lower end; move the left thumb, which now takes no part in the operation, a little below the pack to be out of the way. Then slide the lower half of the pack a little to the left, and the upper half to the right till they just clear each other (see Fig. 4), when you will be enabled to place what was originally the upper half undermost, and vice versâ. This is the theory of the process, but in practice the necessary motions are not nearly so distinct. As you grow more and more expert, the necessary movement from right to left should become gradually smaller and smaller, until at last it is almost imperceptible. You must study to reduce this movement to the very16 minimum; and in order to do this, endeavour, after you have once seen clearly what it is you have to do, to keep the hands together as much as possible. Let the edge of the palm of the right hand rest gently, but firmly, on the first three fingers of the left hand, and let the contact thus made form a kind of hinge or fulcrum for the movement of the hands. When you become expert, you will find that the mere outward movement of the two hands upon this imaginary hinge (the cards being held lightly, and allowed to accommodate themselves to the movement) is sufficient to produce the effect.

Second Method.—(With both hands).—Hold the pack in your left hand, just like in the first method. Grasp the lower part of the pack lengthwise between your second finger at the top and your thumb at the bottom. Move your left thumb a bit below the pack to keep it out of the way. Then, slide the lower half of the pack slightly to the left and the upper half to the right until they barely clear each other (see Fig. 4). At this point, you can place what was originally the upper half underneath, and vice versa. This is the theory of the process, but in reality, the motions aren’t as distinct. As you become more skilled, the necessary movement from right to left should gradually reduce until it’s almost unnoticeable. You should aim to minimize this movement as much as possible, and to do this, once you clearly understand what you need to do, try to keep your hands together as much as possible. Let the edge of the palm of your right hand gently but firmly rest on the first three fingers of your left hand, creating a sort of hinge or fulcrum for your hand movements. When you get the hang of it, you’ll find that simply moving the two hands outward on this imaginary hinge (with the cards held lightly, allowing them to adjust to the movement) is enough to achieve the desired effect.

Fig. 5.

We have above recommended you to keep the hands together as much as possible; but there are circumstances under which an ostentatious separation of the hands is equally effective. Thus, holding the cards as above directed, you may make the pass by (apparently) merely cutting the cards, lifting, in truth, the under instead of the upper half, the latter making way (by a slight and momentary extension of the left hand) to allow it to pass. You may also, when holding the cards as just cut (i.e., half the pack in each hand), make the pass in the act of bringing them together. To do this you should hold the right hand packet in such manner that the thumb and second finger may project a full inch beyond the face of the cards. At the moment of bringing the two packets together (which should be done with a sidelong motion of the right hand from right to left) this thumb and finger grip the other packet, and slide it out towards the left shoulder, leaving what was originally the right hand packet in the left hand. If this is done neatly, the movement is so subtle that the keenest eye cannot detect that the two packets have changed hands. Having effected the change, you may take your own time as to placing17 the now uppermost packet on the other. The circumstances of each trick will indicate the cases in which it may be desirable to adopt either of these variations.

We suggested earlier that you keep your hands together as much as possible, but there are times when a noticeable separation of the hands can be just as effective. When holding the cards as instructed, you can make the pass by simply appearing to cut the cards, while actually lifting the bottom half instead of the top one. The top half will move aside (with a slight and quick extension of the left hand) to let it pass. You can also perform the pass while bringing the two halves together after cutting them (i.e., with half the deck in each hand). To do this, hold the right-hand packet so that your thumb and index finger extend about an inch beyond the face of the cards. As you bring the two packets together (with a sideways motion of the right hand from right to left), let your thumb and finger grip the other packet and slide it out towards your left shoulder, leaving the original right-hand packet in your left hand. If done smoothly, this motion is so subtle that even the sharpest eye won’t notice that the packets have switched hands. After making the change, you can take your time placing17 the top packet onto the other. The specifics of each trick will suggest when it’s best to use either of these techniques.

Fig. 6.

Third Method. (With both hands.)—This is very similar to the first method, but much less neat. Take the cards, as in the former case, face downwards in the left hand, but instead of the little finger, insert the second and third fingers immediately above those cards which are to be brought to the top of the pack, and draw the first and fourth fingers below the pack. (See Fig. 5.) In this position, the lower half of the pack is held as in a forceps between the second and third and the first and fourth fingers. Now cover the pack with the right hand as directed for making the pass by the first method, but in this instance grasp therewith (between the first and second fingers at top and the thumb at bottom) the upper half of the pack. Raise this upper half slightly, to allow room for the movement of the lower half, and at the same moment slightly extend the fingers of the left hand. (See Fig. 6.) This will make the lower packet describe a quarter of a circle. As soon as it is clear of the upper packet, by reversing the motion (i.e., closing the fingers of the left hand, and at the same time lowering the right hand), the two halves of the pack will be again brought together, but that half which was originally undermost will now be uppermost. The movement will be understood more clearly on an inspection of the diagrams a and b (Fig. 6), a representing an end view of the two portions of the pack in their original position, and b of the same in their transposed18 position, the original lower portion being in each case indicated by the darker shade.

Third Method. (Using both hands.)—This method is quite similar to the first one, but it's not as tidy. Hold the cards face down in your left hand, just like before, but instead of using your little finger, place your second and third fingers just above the cards you want to move to the top of the pack, while your first and fourth fingers go below the pack. (See Fig. 5.) In this position, the bottom half of the pack is held like tweezers between your second and third fingers and your first and fourth fingers. Now cover the pack with your right hand as you did in the first method to make the pass, but this time also grip the upper half of the pack with your right hand (between the first and second fingers at the top and the thumb at the bottom). Slightly lift the upper half to create space for the movement of the lower half, and at the same time, slightly extend your left hand fingers. (See Fig. 6.) This will make the lower packet move in a quarter-circle. As soon as it clears the upper packet, reverse the motion (i.e., close your left hand's fingers while lowering your right hand), and the two halves of the pack will come back together, with the half that was originally on the bottom now on top. You can understand the movement better by looking at diagrams a and b (Fig. 6), where a shows an end view of the two parts of the pack in their original position, and b shows them in their switched position, with the original lower portion shaded darker.

Fourth Method. (With the left hand.)—This is almost the same as the method last described, save that the left hand only is used. The upper packet, instead of being held in the right hand, is in this case clipped between the ball of the left thumb and the point where the thumb joins the hand. In other respects the movement is the same.

Fourth Method. (Using the left hand.)—This is very similar to the method just described, except that only the left hand is used. The upper packet, instead of being held in the right hand, is now secured between the ball of the left thumb and the point where the thumb meets the hand. In all other aspects, the movement remains the same.

Fig. 7.

Fifth Method. (With the left hand.)—Take the cards in the left hand as before. Insert the third finger above the cards which are to be brought to the top (and which now form the lower half of the pack), and close the remaining three fingers on the top of the pack. (See Fig. 1, but suppose the third finger inserted in place of the fourth.) Now extend the fingers, which will make the upper part of the pack describe a semicircle (see Fig. 7), and at the same moment press downward with the thumb the left top corner of the lower packet. This will tilt up the opposite end of the lower packet, and give room, as you again close the fingers, for the upper packet to pass into the lower place. (See Fig. 8.) To bring the original upper packet (i.e., the one with the six of hearts at the bottom) from the position indicated in Fig. 7 to that which it occupies in Fig. 8, it is pressed slightly forward with the middle finger, and is thereby made to perform a semi-revolution, the third finger19 acting as pivot. The packet is by this means turned over endways, i.e., that end of the packet which was originally nearest to the performer is now farthest from him, and vice versâ. The movement is by no means easy to describe, but if followed step by step with the cards, will be readily understood.

Fifth Method. (With the left hand.)—Hold the cards in your left hand as before. Place your third finger above the cards you want to bring to the top (which are now the lower half of the pack), and close your remaining three fingers over the top of the pack. (See Fig. 1, but imagine the third finger in the place of the fourth.) Now extend your fingers, which will make the top part of the pack form a semicircle (see Fig. 7), while at the same time pressing down with your thumb on the left top corner of the lower packet. This will tilt up the opposite end of the lower packet, creating space, as you close your fingers again, for the upper packet to slide into the lower position. (See Fig. 8.) To move the original upper packet (i.e., the one with the six of hearts at the bottom) from the position shown in Fig. 7 to its new position in Fig. 8, gently push it forward with your middle finger, causing it to perform a semi-revolution, with your third finger acting as the pivot. This way, the packet is turned over end for end, meaning the end that was originally closest to you is now farthest away from you, and vice versâ. The movement is challenging to describe, but if you follow along step by step with the cards, it will become clear.

Fig. 8.

This method of making the pass has a peculiarity which renders it specially useful in certain cases. When the upper half of the pack describes a semicircle, as above mentioned, the bottom card of such half is in full view of the performer, though the spectators see only the backs of the cards. The performer thus becomes acquainted, unknown to his audience, with that card which, after the pass, becomes the bottom card of the pack; which knowledge may occasionally be very useful. The movement of the cards in this mode of making the pass is very noticeable; but the circular sweep taken by the upper packet so confuses the eye, that the audience must be extremely keen-sighted to detect the effect of the movement, which, if neatly executed, has the appearance of a mere flourish. A quick sweep of the arm from left to right as the pass is made will greatly assist in covering the transposition of the cards.

This way of making the pass has a uniqueness that makes it especially useful in certain situations. When the top half of the deck forms a semicircle, as mentioned before, the bottom card of that half is fully visible to the performer, while the spectators can only see the backs of the cards. This allows the performer to know, without the audience realizing it, which card will become the bottom card of the deck after the pass; this knowledge can sometimes be very helpful. The movement of the cards in this technique is quite noticeable; however, the circular motion of the upper packet confuses the eye enough that the audience needs to be very sharp to catch the effect of the movement, which, if done smoothly, looks just like a simple flourish. A quick sweep of the arm from left to right as the pass is executed will greatly help to disguise the switch of the cards.

Some perform the pass last described without causing the upper packet to make the semi-revolution above mentioned. The first finger in this case does not participate in the operation, but is left extended beyond the upper end of the pack.

Some people do the pass mentioned earlier without making the upper packet do the semi-revolution that was described. In this case, the first finger doesn’t take part in the action, but is kept extended beyond the top end of the pack.

Fig. 9.
Fig. 10.

Sixth Method. (With either hand.)—Take the pack in either hand, as if you were about to stand it on end on the table, the20 backs of the cards being next to the palm. Insert the third finger between the two halves of the pack, and draw the second and fourth fingers behind the pack. In this position, the uppermost half of the pack is held between the third finger and the second and fourth fingers. Clip the lower or front half of the pack at its two top corners between the thumb and the first finger. (See Fig. 9.) Now extend the second, third, and fourth fingers, which will carry with them the upper half of the pack. As soon as it is clear of the lower half, again close the fingers, thereby bringing the upper packet to the bottom. (See Fig. 10.) This mode of making the pass may be employed as you place the pack on the table, the movement for that purpose serving to cover that by which the cards are transposed. If no table is at hand a quick movement of the hand and arm from right to left, at the moment when the pass is made, will be found to answer equally well.

Sixth Method. (With either hand.)—Hold the deck in either hand, as if you’re about to stand it upright on the table, with the backs of the cards facing your palm. Insert your third finger between the two halves of the deck, and pull your second and fourth fingers behind it. In this position, the top half of the deck is held between your third finger and your second and fourth fingers. Grip the lower or front half of the deck at its top corners with your thumb and first finger. (See Fig. 9.) Now extend your second, third, and fourth fingers, which will lift the upper half of the deck. Once it’s clear of the lower half, close your fingers again, bringing the upper packet to the bottom. (See Fig. 10.) You can use this method to make the transition as you put the deck on the table; the movement serves to cover the card swap. If there's no table available, a quick movement of your hand and arm from right to left at the moment you perform the transition will work just as well.

Fig. 11.

Seventh Method. (With the right hand.)—This is a mere makeshift for the pass proper, though its effect is the same. It is performed in picking up the cards from the table after they have been cut, and left, as is usual, in two heaps. The performer picks up, as in the ordinary course,21 the bottom half of the pack (which should properly be placed uppermost after the cut); but, instead of picking them up in the usual way, he picks them up with the second, third, and fourth fingers under, and the first finger above the cards. In placing them apparently upon the upper heap, he tilts up the right hand edge of that heap with the tip of the first finger, and with the remaining fingers slides the heap he already holds underneath it (see Fig. 11), so that the cards are again precisely as they were before the cut. This sham mode of making the pass is rarely used by conjurors, but is said to be frequently employed by card-sharpers.

Seventh Method. (With the right hand.)—This is just a workaround for the actual pass, although it achieves the same effect. It's done when picking up the cards from the table after they've been cut and left, as usual, in two piles. The performer picks up, as is typical, the bottom half of the deck (which should ideally be on top after the cut); but instead of lifting them in the usual way, he picks them up with his second, third, and fourth fingers underneath, and the first finger on top of the cards. When placing them seemingly onto the upper pile, he tilts up the right-hand edge of that pile with the tip of his first finger, and using the other fingers, slides the pile he’s already holding underneath it (see Fig. 11), so the cards are back to exactly how they were before the cut. This fake way of making the pass is rarely used by magicians, but it's said to be commonly used by card cheaters.

To “Force” a Card.—By this phrase is signified the compelling a person to draw such card as you desire, though he is apparently allowed absolute freedom of choice. Your first step is to get sight of the bottom card, or, if you want to force a predetermined card, to get that card to the bottom. Having done this, take the pack in the left hand, and insert the little finger half-way down, in readiness to make the pass. Make the pass by the first method, but, before uniting the two halves of the pack in their new position, again slip the little finger of the left hand between them. (The two halves will now be united at the end which is towards the spectators, but divided by the little finger at the end nearest to yourself; and the original bottom card, which is the one you desire to force, is now the bottom of the top heap, resting on the little finger.) Using both hands, with the thumbs above and the fingers below the pack, spread out the cards fanwise from left to right, at the same time offering them to the person who is to draw, and requesting him to select a card. Keep the little finger of the22 left hand still on the face of the card to be chosen, or you may now use, if more convenient, the same finger of the right hand, both being underneath the cards. As the person advances his hand to draw, move the cards onward with the thumb, so that the particular card shall reach his fingers just at the moment when he closes them in order to draw; and, if you have followed these directions properly, it is ten to one that he will draw the card you wish. It may possibly be imagined that forcing is a very difficult matter, and requires an extraordinary degree of dexterity; but this is by no means the case. The principal thing against which a beginner must guard, is a tendency to offer the particular card a little too soon. When the cards are first presented to the drawer, the pack should be barely spread at all, and the card in question should be ten or fifteen cards off. The momentary hesitation of the drawer in making his choice will give time, by moving the cards quicker or slower, as may be necessary, to bring that card opposite his fingers at the right moment. Should the performer, however, miscalculate his time, and the card pass the drawer’s fingers before the choice is made, he need not be embarrassed. Still keeping the little finger on the card, he should sharply close the cards, and making some remark as to the drawer being “difficult to please,” or the like, again spread them as before, and offer them for the choice.

To "Force" a Card.—This term means making someone draw a specific card that you want, even though they seem to have complete freedom to choose. Your first step is to see the bottom card, or if you want to force a specific card, get that card to the bottom. Once you’ve done this, hold the deck in your left hand and insert your little finger halfway down, preparing to make the move. Execute the move using the first method, but before bringing the two halves of the deck together in their new position, slip your little finger from the left hand back between them again. (The two halves will now be joined at the end facing the spectators, but separated by your little finger at the end closest to you; the original bottom card, which you want to force, is now at the bottom of the top half, resting on your little finger.) Using both hands, with your thumbs on top and fingers underneath, spread the cards out from left to right in a fan shape, while offering them to the person who will draw and asking them to select a card. Keep your little finger on the face of the card you want to be chosen, or if it's easier, you can use the same finger of your right hand, both of which will be underneath the cards. As the person reaches for a card, push the cards forward with your thumb so that the specific card ends up in their fingers just as they close their hand to draw it; if you've followed these steps correctly, there's a good chance they'll pick the card you want. It might seem like forcing is really hard and needs a lot of skill, but that’s not true at all. The main thing a beginner needs to watch out for is the tendency to present the desired card a little too soon. When the cards are first shown to the person drawing, the deck should hardly be spread at all, and the card you’re focusing on should be ten or fifteen cards away. The brief hesitation from the drawer when choosing will give you the chance, by moving the cards faster or slower as needed, to bring that card in line with their fingers at the right time. However, if the performer misjudges the timing and the card goes past the drawer's fingers before they make a decision, there's no need to panic. By keeping your little finger on that card, quickly close the deck and make a comment about the drawer being “hard to please” or something similar, then spread the cards again as before and offer them for another choice.

A moderate degree of practice will make the student so proficient that even a person acquainted with the secret of forcing will have to be very wide-awake in order not to take the desired card. You will, however, sometimes find a person, suspecting your design and wishing to embarrass you, suddenly jerk his hand away from the card which he was apparently about to take, and draw another from a different part of the pack. In the great majority of tricks this is of little consequence, inasmuch as there are numerous ways (which will be hereafter explained) of ascertaining what the drawn card was; but there are some illusions which depend upon the drawer taking a card similar in suit and number to one already prepared elsewhere for the purpose of the trick. In this case it is, of course, absolutely necessary that the card drawn should be the right one; and as even the most accomplished performer cannot always be certain of forcing a single card, another expedient must be used in order to ensure23 success. This is made absolutely certain by the use of what is called a “forcing pack”—i.e., a pack in which all the cards are alike. Thus, if the knave of hearts is the card to be drawn, the whole pack will consist of knaves of hearts, and the drawer may therefore do his utmost to exercise a free choice, but the card which he draws will certainly be the knave of hearts, and no other. Where more than one card is to be drawn, as, for instance, in the well-known trick of the “rising cards,” the pack may consist, instead of similar cards throughout, of groups of two or more particular cards. Thus, one third may be knaves of hearts, one third aces of diamonds, and the remaining third sevens of clubs—the cards of each kind being together. With the aid of such a pack, it will require very little skill to ensure one of each sort being drawn.

With a moderate amount of practice, the student will become so skilled that even someone who knows the trick will have to stay very alert not to pick the targeted card. However, you might sometimes encounter someone who, sensing your plan and wanting to throw you off, suddenly pulls their hand away from the card they seemed about to take and chooses another from a different part of the deck. In most tricks, this doesn’t really matter because there are plenty of methods (which will be explained later) to figure out what card was drawn; however, some illusions rely on the person picking a card that matches the suit and number of a card set up for the trick. In this scenario, it's crucial that the drawn card is the correct one, and since even the best performers can’t be 100% sure of forcing a specific card, another method must be used to guarantee success. This is made foolproof with what’s known as a “forcing pack”—that is, a deck where all the cards are the same. So, if the card to be drawn is the jack of hearts, the entire deck will be made up of jacks of hearts, and no matter how much the chooser tries to act like they’re making a free decision, the card they draw will always be the jack of hearts and nothing else. When more than one card is to be drawn, like in the popular “rising cards” trick, the pack may consist of groups of two or more specific cards instead of all the same ones. For example, one-third could be jacks of hearts, one-third could be aces of diamonds, and the last third could be sevens of clubs, with all the same cards grouped together. With such a deck, it takes very little skill to make sure one card of each type is drawn.

To make a “False Shuffle.”—False shuffles are of two kinds, according to the object with which they are made. Those of the first kind are designed simply to keep in view a particular card or cards, the remainder of the pack being really shuffled. The second kind are designed to keep the pack in a pre-arranged order, and are shuffles in appearance only, all the cards being brought back to the same relative positions which they occupied before the shuffle.

How to perform a "False Shuffle."—There are two types of false shuffles, based on their purpose. The first type is meant to keep a specific card or cards visible while genuinely shuffling the rest of the deck. The second type aims to maintain the cards in a specific order, looking like a shuffle on the surface, but actually returning all the cards to their original relative positions.

First Method. (To keep a particular card or cards in view.)—Take the pack in the left hand. If the card to be kept in view is not already on the top of the pack, insert the little finger of the left hand immediately above that card, and make the pass in order to bring it to the top. Transfer this card to the right hand, and slide the remaining cards upon it, by little successive parcels of six or eight cards, one above the other. The known card will now be at the bottom. Return the pack to the left hand. Slide off three or four of the top cards into the right hand, and place the remaining cards, by parcels of six or eight as before, alternately above and below these top cards, till you come to the last card, which is the special one, and which you will place above or below as occasion may require. If there are three or four cards to be kept in view, it makes no difference in the mode of operation, save that you must treat those cards throughout as the single card, and keep them together accordingly.

First Method. (To keep a specific card or cards in view.)—Hold the deck in your left hand. If the card you want to keep in view isn’t already on top of the deck, insert your left hand's little finger right above that card, and perform a move to bring it to the top. Move this card to your right hand and stack the rest of the cards on top of it, using small groups of six or eight cards, one on top of the other. The known card will now be at the bottom. Switch the deck back to your left hand. Take three or four of the top cards into your right hand, and then alternate placing the remaining cards, in groups of six or eight as before, either above or below these top cards, until you reach the last card, which is the special one, and position it above or below as needed. If you have three or four cards to keep in view, the process remains the same; just treat all those cards as a single card and keep them together.

Fig. 12.

Second Method. (To keep a particular card in view.)—Bring the24 card in question, as before directed, to the top of the pack. Take the pack in the left hand, holding it upright on its side, the edges of the cards resting on the palm, the four fingers (which should be slightly moistened) being at the back or top, and the thumb on the face of the pack. Now, with the thumb and middle finger of the right hand (see Fig. 12) lift out edgeways that portion of the cards which now forms the middle of the pack, and drop them by packets of five or six at a time upon the face of the cards remaining in the left hand, moving aside the left thumb to allow of their passage. The pressure of the fingers will always keep the top card in its place, however many of the remaining cards you lift out with the right hand; and as you only shuffle on to the face of the pack, however often you repeat the process, this card will still remain at the top.

Second Method. (To keep a specific card in view.)—First, bring the24 card you're focusing on to the top of the deck. Hold the deck in your left hand, upright on its side, with the edges resting on your palm. Your four fingers (which should be slightly damp) should be at the back or top, while your thumb is on the face of the deck. Now, using the thumb and middle finger of your right hand (see Fig. 12), lift out the middle portion of cards edgewise and drop them in packets of five or six onto the face of the remaining cards in your left hand, moving your left thumb aside to let them pass. The pressure from your fingers will keep the top card in place, no matter how many of the other cards you lift out with your right hand. Since you only shuffle onto the face of the deck, no matter how many times you repeat this process, that card will stay on top.

Third Method.—(To retain the whole pack in a pre-arranged order.)—Take the pack in the left hand, slide off with the left thumb five or six of the top cards into the right hand, and place the remaining cards by parcels of five or six at a time (apparently) alternately above and below these first cards, as in the ordinary mode of shuffling. We say apparently, for in reality, although you go through the motion of placing every alternate packet above the cards in the right hand, you do not leave it there, but draw it back again with the thumb on to the top of the cards in the left hand, and then place it, by your next movement, under the cards in the right hand. The result is, that the cards in the left hand, instead of being placed alternately above and below the cards in the right hand, are really all placed below, and in precisely the same order which they occupied at first.

Third Method.—(To keep the entire deck in a pre-arranged order.)—Hold the deck in your left hand, slide off five or six of the top cards with your left thumb into your right hand, and then place the remaining cards in groups of five or six at a time (seemingly) in alternating layers above and below these first cards, just like you would in a regular shuffle. We say seemingly, because although you perform the action of placing each alternate packet above the cards in your right hand, you actually don’t leave it there; instead, you pull it back with your thumb onto the top of the cards in your left hand, and then in your next move, you place it under the cards in your right hand. As a result, the cards in your left hand are actually all placed below the cards in your right hand, preserving the exact order they were in at the start.

25 Some persons are in the habit of making the genuine shuffle, of which the above is an imitation, from the right hand to the left instead of from the left hand to the right, as above described. It may be stated, once for all, that wherever it is found more easy by the student to do with the right hand that which he is here instructed to do with the left, and vice versâ, there is not the least objection to his doing so, though the mode here indicated is that which, it is believed, will be found most convenient by the generality of persons.

25 Some people tend to make the authentic shuffle, which the above is imitating, from the right hand to the left instead of from the left hand to the right, as described above. It should be noted that if the student finds it easier to do with the right hand what is instructed to be done with the left, and vice versa, there's absolutely no objection to that. However, the method outlined here is believed to be the most convenient for the majority of people.

Fig. 13.

Fourth Method. (To retain the whole pack in a pre-arranged order.)—Take the upper half of the pack in the right hand and the lower half in the left, the thumb in each case being above and the fingers below the cards. Place the two portions edge to edge, and work in the edges of the cards in the right hand half an inch or so between the edges of those in the left, spreading the cards in the meanwhile to facilitate the introduction; but let the right hand cards project about an inch above the top edges of those in the left hand. (See Fig. 13.A) If you were to close up the cards in the relative positions they now occupy, they26 would be really shuffled. To prevent their being so in fact, as well as in appearance, you clip lengthways between the thumb and second finger of the right hand the cards of the packet on that side, and bend them sharply downwards and outwards. This again disengages them from the other packet, on the top of which you quickly slide them, and press the whole square.

Fourth Method. (To keep the whole pack in a pre-arranged order.)—Hold the upper half of the pack in your right hand and the lower half in your left, with your thumb on top and fingers below the cards. Place the two halves edge to edge, and work the edges of the cards in your right hand about half an inch between the edges of those in the left, spreading the cards to make the introduction easier; but let the right-hand cards stick out about an inch above the top edges of those in your left hand. (See Fig. 13.A) If you were to close the cards in their current relative positions, they would actually be shuffled. To stop that from happening, both in reality and appearance, you pinch the cards on the right side between your thumb and second finger, bending them sharply downwards and outwards. This separates them from the other packet, on top of which you quickly slide them and press the whole square.

A The cards of the right-hand packet are darkened in the figure for the better distinguishing of the two packets, though there would, of course, be no such difference of shade in the original.

A The cards in the right-hand packet are shaded darker in the illustration to better differentiate the two packets, even though there wouldn't actually be any difference in shade in the original.

Fig. 14.

Fifth Method. (To retain the whole pack in a pre-arranged order.)—Make the pass so as to bring the lower half of the pack uppermost. Take the pack in the right hand, keeping the two portions of the pack separated by the little finger of that hand. Hold the cards face downwards a few inches from the table, and let fall, by five or six at a time, those cards which now form the lower half of the pack. You should so arrange that these cards form four little heaps, falling in the order indicated by the accompanying figure (Fig. 14). Thus the bottom cards must fall at 1, the next lowest at 2, the next (comprising all that remain of the lower packet) at 3, and the remaining cards (being the whole of the upper part) at 4. Now (with the left hand) quickly place packet 1 on packet 4, and (with the right hand) packet 2 on packet 1, and finally (with the left hand) packet 3 on the top of all, when the cards will occupy precisely the same relative positions as at first. The use of the two hands alternately, coupled with the rapidity of the performer, gives to his motions an appearance of carelessness which effectually baffles the spectators, and prevents their suspecting that the heaps are re-arranged in any determinate order.

Fifth Method. (To keep the whole deck in a pre-arranged order.)—Make the pass to bring the bottom half of the deck on top. Hold the deck in your right hand, using your little finger to keep the two halves apart. Position the cards face down a few inches above the table, and drop them five or six at a time, forming four small piles, following the order shown in the accompanying figure (Fig. 14). The bottom cards should fall in position 1, the next lowest at position 2, the next (which includes all that’s left of the lower half) at position 3, and the remaining cards (which make up the entire upper half) at position 4. Now, quickly place pile 1 on top of pile 4 with your left hand, then place pile 2 on top of pile 1 with your right hand, and finally, place pile 3 on top of everything else with your left hand. This way, the cards will have the same relative positions as before. The alternating use of both hands, combined with the performer’s speed, creates an appearance of carelessness that effectively confuses onlookers and prevents them from realizing that the piles are rearranged in any specific order.

Sixth Method.—This also retains the cards in their pre-arranged order, with this qualification, that an indefinite number are transferred from the top to the bottom of the pack, the effect being as if the cards had been cut without being shuffled. Holding the cards as directed for the last method, you drop them in four heaps as before, but beginning from the left, and proceeding straight onwards in27 regular succession. Now place the first heap on the fourth or right hand heap, and the second heap on the first heap, finally placing the third heap either above or below the pile thus made. Where it is necessary, after using this shuffle, to bring back the cards to the precise condition in which they were at first, this object may be effected by the use of the “bridge,” hereafter described.

Sixth Method.—This method also keeps the cards in their original order, with the exception that an indefinite number are moved from the top to the bottom of the deck, creating the effect as if the cards had been cut without being mixed up. Holding the cards as instructed in the last method, you divide them into four piles as before, but this time starting from the left and moving straight through in27 a regular sequence. Now place the first pile on the fourth or right-hand pile, the second pile on top of the first pile, and finally put the third pile either above or below the stack you've just created. If it’s necessary to return the cards to their exact initial condition after using this shuffle, you can achieve this using the “bridge,” which will be explained later.

Fig. 15.

To “Palm” a Card.—Bring the card which you desire to palm (by the pass or otherwise) to the top of the pack. Hold the pack face downwards in the left hand, covering it lengthways with the right. With the left thumb push the top card till it projects about an inch beyond the edge of the pack. With the third finger of the left hand, which is now immediately below the card, press it upwards into the right hand, which should half close over it. You must not mind about bending the card, which will lie curled up against the inside of the hand. You may either let the hand drop negligently to your side, or, still better, take the pack between the fingers and thumb of the same hand (see Fig. 15) and offer it to be shuffled. This will give you the opportunity, often very valuable, of seeing what the card in question is. When it becomes necessary to return the card to the pack, the mere motion of taking the pack in the right hand, whether from the left hand or from the table, will effect that object in the most natural manner. If the card retains a curve from its bent position in the hand, you may readily straighten it by ruffling the cards, as described in the next paragraph. If the performer is fortunate enough to have a large hand, a complete pack of cards may be palmed in this manner without difficulty.

To hide a card.—Take the card you want to palm (using the pass or another method) and move it to the top of the deck. Hold the deck face down in your left hand, covering it lengthwise with your right hand. Use your left thumb to push the top card out so it sticks out about an inch beyond the edge of the deck. Then, with your left hand's third finger, which is now right below the card, press it upward into your right hand, which should close around it partially. Don’t worry about bending the card; it will rest curled against the inside of your hand. You can let your hand drop casually to your side, or even better, hold the deck between the fingers and thumb of the same hand (see Fig. 15) and offer it for shuffling. This gives you a valuable chance to see what the card is. When it’s time to return the card to the deck, simply moving the pack to your right hand—whether from your left hand or from the table—will do this in a very natural way. If the card stays curved from being bent in your hand, you can easily straighten it by riffling the cards, as explained in the next paragraph. If the performer has large hands, they can palm a full deck of cards this way without much trouble.

To “Ruffle” the Cards.—Hold the pack tightly by its lower end between the fingers and thumb of the left hand, the thumb28 being above and the fingers below the cards. Cover the pack lengthways with the right hand, and clip the cards between the fingers and thumb as if you were about to make the pass by the first method. Keep the thumb unmoved, but draw the fingers smartly upwards, so as to bend the cards slightly. The springing of the cards as they escape one by one from the pressure of the fingers, and again straighten themselves, causes a peculiar sharp sound.

To "Shuffle" the Cards.—Hold the deck firmly by its lower end with the fingers and thumb of your left hand, the thumb28 on top and the fingers below the cards. Cover the deck lengthwise with your right hand, and grip the cards between your fingers and thumb as if you're about to perform the pass in the first method. Keep your thumb still, but pull your fingers up quickly to bend the cards slightly. The cards springing free one by one from the pressure of your fingers and straightening out again makes a distinctive sharp sound.

The ruffle may also be executed with one hand only. Take the pack between the middle finger at top and the thumb at bottom, the first finger resting in a bent position on the back of the cards. Press strongly with the thumb, so as to bend the two ends of the cards smartly outwards, allowing them one by one to escape from the middle finger, and simultaneously straighten the first finger, so as to clip the lower end of the cards between that finger and the thumb.

The ruffle can also be done with just one hand. Hold the deck with your middle finger on top and your thumb on the bottom, while your index finger rests bent on the back of the cards. Press firmly with your thumb to bend the two ends of the cards outward, letting them escape one by one from your middle finger, and at the same time, straighten your index finger to hold the bottom end of the cards between that finger and your thumb.

The ruffle is a mere flourish, but it is by no means without its value. We have indicated in the last paragraph one of its uses, viz., to straighten a card which has been palmed. Apart from this, there are many tricks in which it is desirable to mislead the spectator as to the particular movement by which, or the point of time at which, a particular effect was produced. This may be effected by a judicious use of the ruffle. Suppose, for instance, that the trick consists in magically bringing a given card to a particular position in the pack, and that the performer has already, without the knowledge of his audience, placed the card in the required position. If, before showing that it is so placed, he ostentatiously ruffles the cards, nine out of ten of the audience will be persuaded that this noisy movement is in some way the cause of the transposition, and will be proportionately the less likely to discover the true explanation of the feat.

The ruffle is just a flourish, but it definitely has its value. In the last paragraph, we pointed out one of its uses: to straighten a card that has been palmed. Besides this, there are many tricks where it's helpful to mislead the audience about the specific movement or timing of a particular effect. This can be achieved with a clever use of the ruffle. For example, let's say the trick involves magically moving a specific card to a certain position in the deck, and the performer has secretly placed the card where it needs to be. If, before revealing this position, he dramatically ruffles the cards, nine out of ten audience members will be convinced that this loud movement somehow caused the switch, making them much less likely to figure out the real explanation behind the trick.

To “Change” a Card. (Filer la Carte.)—Some of the most brilliant effects in card-conjuring are produced by the aid of this sleight, by means of which a card, fairly exhibited, is forthwith apparently transformed to a different one. There are several modes of producing this effect.

To “Change” a Card. (Filer la Carte.)—Some of the most impressive tricks in card magic come from this sleight, which allows a card that has been shown clearly to seem like it has instantly transformed into another one. There are various ways to achieve this effect.

Fig. 16.

First Method.—Hold the pack in the left hand, as though about to deal the cards. Hold the card to be changed in the right hand,29 between the first and second fingers. (See Fig. 16.) The card into which it is to be changed should have been previously placed (secretly, of course) on the top of the pack. Push this card a little forward with the left thumb, so as to make it project about three-quarters of an inch beyond the remaining cards. Bring the hands close together for an instant, and in that instant place the card held in the right hand under the pack, (the second, third, and fourth fingers of the left hand opening to receive it, and the remaining finger making way for it as soon as it reaches the pack). Simultaneously with this movement, the thumb and first finger of the right hand must close upon the card projecting from the top of the pack, and, as the hands separate, carry with them that card in place of the one which the right hand originally held. A half turn of the body to the left or right, a quick downward sweep of the right hand, or any other rapid gesture, will assist in covering the momentary bringing together of the hands. In some cases it is better that the right hand alone should move, the left hand being held stationary; in other cases the left hand (the one holding the pack) should make the movement, the hand holding the single card being motionless. It will be well to practise both these modes of making the change. The direction in which the performer turns, in order to place the card on his table, or the like, will indicate which is the best mode to use in any given case.

First Method.—Hold the deck of cards in your left hand, as if you're about to deal. Hold the card you want to switch in your right hand, between your index and middle fingers. (See Fig. 16.) The card you’re switching to should already be placed (discreetly, of course) on top of the deck. Push this card slightly forward with your left thumb so that it sticks out about three-quarters of an inch beyond the other cards. Bring your hands close together for a moment, and during that moment, place the card in your right hand under the deck (the second, third, and fourth fingers of your left hand will open to receive it, while the other finger clears the way as soon as it gets to the deck). At the same time, your right hand's thumb and index finger should close on the card sticking out from the top of the deck, and as you pull your hands apart, carry that card away in place of the one you were originally holding in your right hand. A half turn to the left or right, a quick downward motion with your right hand, or any other swift gesture will help cover the brief moment when the hands come together. In some situations, it’s better for the right hand to move alone while the left hand stays still; in other cases, the left hand (the one holding the deck) should move, leaving the hand with the single card motionless. It’s a good idea to practice both ways of making the switch. The direction you turn to place the card on your table or somewhere else will guide you on which method to use in each situation.

Fig. 17.

Second Method.—This is a very inferior mode of performing the change, but may be useful as a makeshift while the student is acquiring the greater dexterity required for the former method. Hold the pack upright towards the audience, with the card to be changed at the bottom (and therefore in full view), and the card for30 which it is to be changed at the top. The pack should be supported by both hands, and the two cards named should project about half an inch to the right beyond the remainder of the pack, the front or bottom card being between the first and second fingers, and the back or top card between the thumb and first finger of the right hand. (See Fig. 17.) Call attention to the bottom card; make a downward sweep with the pack so as to turn the faces of the cards towards the ground, and at the same moment draw off with the right hand the top card, which the audience will imagine to be the one they have just seen at the bottom.

Second Method.—This is a less effective way to make the change, but it can be helpful as a temporary solution while the learner is developing the skill needed for the first method. Hold the deck upright towards the audience, with the card to be changed at the bottom (and therefore fully visible), and the card it’s changing into on top. The deck should be held with both hands, and the two cards mentioned should stick out about half an inch to the right of the rest of the deck, with the front or bottom card held between the first and second fingers, and the back or top card held between the thumb and first finger of the right hand. (See Fig. 17.) Draw attention to the bottom card; make a downward motion with the deck to turn the faces of the cards down towards the ground, and at the same time pull the top card away with your right hand, which the audience will think is the one they just saw at the bottom.

Fig. 18.

Third Method.—Hold the card to be changed face downwards between the thumb and first and second fingers of the right hand, the thumb being above and the two fingers below the card. Hold the pack in the left hand, as if about to deal the cards, the card for which that first mentioned is to be changed being on the top. Bring the hands rapidly together, pushing the top card with the left thumb about an inch beyond the rest of the pack, and at the same moment place the card held in the right hand with a sliding motion upon the top of the pack. (See Fig. 18.) Both this card and the original top card (which is now second) will now be between the two fingers and thumb of the right hand. Press lightly on the top card with the left thumb to keep it back, and quickly draw away the right hand, pressing gently upwards with the two fingers on the face of the second card, which you will thereby draw away in place of the top card. If neatly done, the keenest eyesight cannot detect the substitution of the second card. Your only difficulty will be to find a colourable pretext for31 placing the card you hold on the top of the pack. This achieved, the rest is easy. The nature of the trick you are performing will frequently suggest a plausible excuse. A very successful plan is to boldly request the company to observe that you do not do that which you at the same moment actually do. “You will observe, ladies and gentlemen,” you remark, “that I do not, even for one moment, replace the card in the pack, but simply,” etc., etc. At the words “replace the card in the pack,” the hands are brought together, and make the change. The action, suiting the words, is taken by the audience as an indicative gesture only, and thus the change is effected under their very eyes without exciting the least suspicion. In this mode of making the change, you should aim at being easy and natural, rather than very rapid. The main movement (that which brings the hands together) is undisguised, but attributed to a fictitious motive; and the subsidiary movement of the fingers, which actually effects the change, is so slight as to be practically imperceptible.

Third Method.—Hold the card to be changed face down between your thumb and index and middle fingers of your right hand, with your thumb above and the two fingers below the card. Hold the pack in your left hand, as if you are about to deal the cards, with the card to be changed on top. Quickly bring your hands together, pushing the top card with your left thumb about an inch past the rest of the pack, and at the same time, slide the card held in your right hand onto the top of the pack. (See Fig. 18.) Both the card you just placed and the original top card (which is now second) will be held between your right hand's fingers and thumb. Lightly press down on the top card with your left thumb to keep it in place, then quickly pull your right hand away, gently pressing upwards with your two fingers on the face of the second card, which will pull away instead of the top card. If done smoothly, even the sharpest eyes won't catch the switch. The only challenge will be to come up with a believable reason for placing the card you hold on top of the pack. Once you accomplish that, the rest is easy. The nature of the trick you're performing will often give you a fitting excuse. A successful strategy is to confidently ask the audience to observe that you do not do what you are actually doing at that moment. “You will notice, ladies and gentlemen,” you say, “that I do not, even for one second, replace the card in the pack, but simply,” etc., etc. As you say “replace the card in the pack,” bring your hands together and make the switch. The audience will perceive the movement as merely gesture-based, allowing the change to occur right in front of them without raising any suspicion. When performing this change, focus on being relaxed and natural rather than overly quick. The main movement (bringing the hands together) should be clear but attributed to a pretend reason; the secondary movement of the fingers, which actually makes the switch, should be so minimal that it is almost unnoticeable.

Fourth Method. (With one hand only.)—Take the pack, face downwards, in the left hand, as if about to deal. Place the card to be changed on the top, and the card for which it is to be changed next below it. With the left thumb push forward the top card to the extent of half its width, letting it rest on the tips of the fingers. This will leave one-half of the second card exposed. By a reverse movement of the thumb, draw back this second card till its outer edge is just clear of the inner edge of the top card. Now press the second card downwards with the thumb so as to bring its opposite32 edge just above the level of the top card; then push it back into its place, but this time above instead of below the top card.

Fourth Method. (With one hand only.)—Hold the deck face down in your left hand, as if you're about to deal. Place the card you want to change on top and the card you're changing it for just below it. Use your left thumb to push the top card forward about half its width, resting it on your fingertips. This will expose half of the second card. With a reverse movement of your thumb, pull this second card back until its outer edge is just out of view of the inner edge of the top card. Now press the second card down with your thumb to lift its opposite edge just above the level of the top card, then slide it back into position, but this time above the top card instead of below it.

Fig. 19.
Fig. 20.

Fifth Method. (To change a given card without the aid of the pack.)—A card having been chosen and returned to the pack, make the pass to bring it to the top, and palm it. Give the pack to be shuffled, and when it is returned pick out hap-hazard any card you please, and holding it up between the first finger and thumb of the right hand (in which is the palmed card), announce boldly that that was the card chosen. You will, of course, be contradicted, whereupon you pretend to be disconcerted, and ask if the person is quite certain that that is not the card he drew, and so on. Meanwhile, you take the card, face downwards, between the first finger and thumb of the left hand, whence you immediately take it again in the right hand (see Fig. 19), taking it so as to bring the palmed card immediately over it, when the two will at a little distance appear to be only one card. You then say, “Well, if you seriously assure me that it is not the right card, I must endeavour to change it to the right one. May I ask what your card was?” When you are told, you continue, “It is a very simple process. I have merely to lay the card upon my hand, so, or if you prefer it, I will change it in your own hands. Oblige me by holding the card face downwards. I think you said your card was”—(say) “the ace of spades? Change!” As you say the words, “lay the card upon my hand,” you place the two cards for an instant on the palm of the left hand (see Fig. 20), and draw off rapidly the top card, which is the right one, leaving the other palmed in the left hand, which then drops to your side. The audience do not suspect33 that the change is already effected, or that you have had more than one card in your hand throughout, and if you have performed the trick neatly, will be utterly nonplussed when the transformation is revealed. You may, if you please, conclude by asking what card the audience imagine that they first saw, and, when told, remarking that they must have been mistaken in their impression, as that card has been in Mr. So-and-so’s tail-pocket all the evening, as you prove by plunging your left hand (in which the card remains palmed) into the pocket, and producing it accordingly.

Fifth Method. (To change a given card without using the deck.)—After someone has chosen a card and returned it to the deck, make a move to bring it to the top and secretly hold it in your palm. Let the deck be shuffled, and once it’s returned, randomly pick out any card you want, holding it up between your thumb and index finger of your right hand (where you have the palmed card). Boldly declare that this is the card that was chosen. Naturally, you’ll be told you’re wrong, and you should act surprised, asking the person if they’re really sure that’s not the card they picked, and so on. In the meantime, take the card, facing down, between your thumb and index finger of your left hand, and then switch it back to your right hand (see Fig. 19), positioning it so that the palmed card is right above it, making the two cards look like one from a distance. Then say, “Well, if you’re confident that it’s not the right card, I’ll try to change it to the right one. What was your card?” Once they tell you, continue with, “It’s a very simple process. I just need to place the card on my hand, like this, or if you’d like, I can change it while you hold it. Please hold the card face down. I think you said your card was”—(say) “the ace of spades? Change!” As you say the words, “lay the card upon my hand,” quickly place the two cards on the palm of your left hand for a moment (see Fig. 20), then swiftly pull off the top card, which is the correct one, while keeping the other card palmed in your left hand, which you then let drop to your side. The audience won’t suspect that the change has already happened or that you’ve had more than one card in your hand the whole time, and if you perform the trick well, they will be completely confused when the transformation is revealed. You may choose to finish by asking what card the audience thinks they initially saw, and when they respond, mention that they must have been mistaken, as that card has been in Mr. So-and-so’s back pocket all evening, which you demonstrate by reaching into your left hand (where the card is still palmed) into the pocket and pulling it out.

Fig. 21.

Sixth Method. (To change several cards at once.)—This sleight is extremely useful in cases where you desire, without the knowledge of the audience, to gain possession of a given number of selected cards. Palm in the left hand, face downwards, a number of cards equal to that which you desire to abstract. Take the cards which you desire to gain possession of between the second finger and thumb of the left hand (after the manner of the single card in Fig. 19). Cover these cards lengthways with the right hand, and palm them in that hand34 (see Fig. 21), at the same moment seizing crossways, with the fingers and thumb of the same hand, the cards already palmed in the left hand (which to the eyes of the spectators will be the same they have just seen), and throw them face downwards on the table.B

Sixth Method. (To change several cards at once.)—This technique is really helpful when you want to secretly obtain a specific number of chosen cards without the audience knowing. Palm a number of cards in your left hand, face down, equal to the amount you want to take away. Hold the cards you want to obtain between the second finger and thumb of your left hand (similar to how you would with a single card in Fig. 19). Cover these cards lengthwise with your right hand, and palm them there34 (see Fig. 21), while simultaneously grabbing the cards already palmed in your left hand with the fingers and thumb of your right hand (which will look to the spectators like the same cards they just saw), and place them face down on the table.B

B The last two very useful and effective sleights are inserted by special permission of the inventor, Professor Hellis, of No. 13, Silver Street, Kensington, one of the cleverest and most genial drawing-room performers of the day.

B The last two really useful and effective tricks are included with special permission from the inventor, Professor Hellis, at No. 13, Silver Street, Kensington, one of the smartest and friendliest drawing-room entertainers of the time.

To Get Sight of a Drawn Card.—The power of doing this is a sine quâ non for the conjuror. As already mentioned, even the most expert operator cannot be absolutely certain of “forcing” the card which he desires, and a novice is very likely indeed to find a wrong card occasionally drawn. It is therefore necessary to be provided with a remedy for such a contretemps. One mode of meeting the difficulty is to allow the card to be returned to the pack, make the pass to bring it to the top, and palm it, immediately giving the pack to be shuffled, and in so doing to get sight of the card, which remains in your own hand, and can in due time be reproduced in any way you please. (See Fig. 15.) For the present purpose, we assume that you do not desire to retain possession of the card, but merely wish to know its suit and value. These may be ascertained as follows:—

To See a Drawn Card.—Having the ability to do this is essential for the magician. As mentioned earlier, even the most skilled performer can’t be absolutely certain of “forcing” the card they want, and a beginner is quite likely to accidentally draw a wrong card now and then. Therefore, it's important to have a solution for such a contretemps. One way to handle this challenge is to let the card be returned to the deck, perform the move to bring it to the top, and then secretly hold it in your hand while allowing the rest of the deck to be shuffled, making sure you can still see the card that remains in your hand and can later reveal it however you want. (See Fig. 15.) For now, let's assume you don't care about keeping the card, but just want to know what suit and value it is. You can find these out as follows:—

Fig. 22.

First Method.—Ask the drawer to return his card to the pack, which you offer for that purpose in the left hand, spreading the pack fanwise, in order that he may insert the card where he pleases. As he replaces the card, slip the little finger of the left hand below it, and close the fan. You now have the pack held in the palm of the left hand, but divided just below the chosen card by the little finger, the three remaining fingers being35 on the top. Offer the cards to be shuffled, or make any gesture you like with the pack, at the same moment slightly straightening the fingers. The effect of this movement will be to lift the upper packet, and thus open the pack bookwise, the opening being towards yourself, and the lowest card of the top heap, which is the card you desire to ascertain, being for the moment in full view. (See Fig. 22.)

First Method.—Ask the person to put their card back into the deck, which you hold in your left hand, fanning it out so they can place their card wherever they want. As they put the card back, slip your little finger of the left hand under it, and close the fan. You now have the deck held in the palm of your left hand, divided right below the chosen card by your little finger, while the three remaining fingers rest on top. Offer the cards for shuffling, or make any gesture you like with the deck, while slightly straightening your fingers. This movement will lift the upper packet, opening the deck towards you, and the lowest card of the top pile, which is the card you want to identify, will be visible for a moment. (See Fig. 22.)

Second Method.—Proceed as above, but instead of opening the pack to get sight of the card, bring it secretly to the bottom by the pass, and offer the cards to be shuffled, holding them at the upper end between the thumb and first and second finger of the right hand, and slanting from you at an angle of 45°, as in Fig. 15. As the faces are towards you, you have a full view of the card. Even if it should suggest itself to the audience that you are able to see the bottom card, as they are not aware that the chosen card is now in that position, there is nothing to excite their suspicion.

Second Method.—Follow the steps mentioned above, but instead of revealing the card by opening the pack, secretly move it to the bottom using the pass. Offer the cards to be shuffled, holding them at the upper end between your thumb and first two fingers of your right hand, angled away from you at about 45°, as in Fig. 15. Since the faces are facing you, you can see the card clearly. Even if the audience suspects that you can see the bottom card, since they don’t know that the chosen card is now in that spot, there’s nothing to raise their suspicion.

You may, by way of variety, instead of offering the cards to be shuffled, hold them in the right hand, and make the single-handed “ruffle” above described, at the same time turning their faces slightly towards yourself. You may effect the same object, even more simply, by the mere act of passing the pack from the one hand to the other, keeping the bottom card turned inwards as above.

You can mix things up by holding the cards in your right hand instead of offering them to be shuffled. Do a one-handed "ruffle" as described earlier while slightly turning the faces of the cards towards you. You can achieve the same result even more easily by simply passing the deck from one hand to the other, keeping the bottom card facing inward as mentioned above.

Fig. 23.

To “Slip” a Card.—Hold the pack in the left hand having first slightly moistened the fingers, which should rest upon the back of the cards. Open the pack bookwise, at an angle of about 45°, holding the upper packet lengthways between the thumb and second finger of the right hand. Draw this upper packet smartly upwards to a distance36 of two or three inches from the lower packet. (See Fig. 23.) The top card of the upper packet, being held back by the pressure of the fingers upon it, will not move upwards with the rest of the packet; but immediately the remaining cards are clear, will fold itself down on the top of the lower packet. If the top card of the lower packet be examined before and after the slip, the card will appear to have changed, the fact being that the original top card becomes the second after the slip, the slipped card covering it.

To "Slide" a Card.—Hold the deck in your left hand, having first slightly moistened your fingers, which should rest on the back of the cards. Open the deck like a book, at an angle of about 45°, holding the upper stack lengthwise between your thumb and second finger of your right hand. Pull this upper stack upward quickly to about two or three inches away from the lower stack. (See Fig. 23.) The top card of the upper stack, being held back by the pressure of your fingers, won't move upward with the rest of the stack; but as soon as the remaining cards are clear, it will fold down on top of the lower stack. If the top card of the lower stack is examined before and after the slip, it will seem like it has changed, since the original top card becomes the second card after the slip, with the slipped card now covering it.

Fig. 24 Fig. 25.

To Draw Back a Card. (Glisser la carte.)—The performer shows the bottom card, then dropping the pack into a horizontal position, face downwards, he draws out, with the thumb and second finger of the other hand, apparently that card, but really the next above it. This is effected as follows:—Hold the pack upright in the left hand between the first finger and thumb, the back of the cards towards the palm, and the thumb and finger about the middle of each side of the pack. Let the third finger, which should be previously moistened, rest on the face of the cards. (See Fig. 24.) You will find that in this position, by moving the third finger, you can draw back the bottom card about an inch below the remaining cards, and37 thereby leave exposed a corresponding portion of the next card. (See Fig. 25.) This is the whole mechanism of the operation. You must, of course, take care, after showing the bottom card, to turn the pack downward before you slide back that card in order to draw the next card in its place.

Draw a Card. (Glisser la carte.)—The performer shows the bottom card, then drops the deck into a horizontal position, face down. He pulls out what looks like that card, but it’s actually the one right above it. Here’s how to do it: Hold the deck upright in your left hand between your index finger and thumb, with the back of the cards facing your palm, and your thumb and finger positioned about the middle of each side of the deck. Let your third finger, which should be slightly wet, rest on the face of the cards. (See Fig. 24.) In this position, by moving your third finger, you can pull back the bottom card about an inch below the rest of the cards, revealing a portion of the next card. (See Fig. 25.) This is the whole mechanism of the move. After showing the bottom card, be sure to turn the deck downward before you slide back that card to pull the next card into place.

Fig. 26.

To “Turn Over” the Pack.—There are certain tricks (as, for instance, where you have undertaken to produce a given card at a particular number in the pack) for which it is necessary to deal a certain number of cards from the top, and then (without the spectator’s knowledge) to continue the deal from the opposite end of the pack. As a necessary preliminary, you must “face” the cards—i.e., bring the upper and lower portions face to face. This you have already been taught to do by means of the pass. Whichever way the pack is turned, it will now, of course, show backs only. Take the pack flat in the left hand, the fingers clipping it rather tightly, but without the aid of the thumb. Pass the thumb underneath, and with the ball of the thumb press the pack smartly upwards (see Fig. 26), when it will describe a semi-revolution on its longer axis, the lower face of the pack being thereby brought uppermost. If performed with the hand at rest, the movement is very perceptible; but if you at the same time make a semi-circular sweep of the hand and arm from left to right, the smaller movement of the pack in the hand is much less likely to attract notice.

To "Flip" the Pack.—There are certain tricks (like when you need to produce a specific card at a certain position in the pack) for which it's necessary to deal a certain number of cards from the top and then (without the spectator noticing) continue dealing from the opposite end of the pack. As a necessary first step, you must “face” the cards—i.e., bring the top and bottom portions face to face. You've already learned to do this with the pass. No matter how the pack is turned, it will only show the backs now. Hold the pack flat in your left hand, gripping it tightly with your fingers but without using your thumb. Slide your thumb underneath, and with the ball of your thumb, press the pack upwards (see Fig. 26), causing it to rotate halfway around its longer axis, bringing the bottom face of the pack to the top. If you do this with your hand steady, the movement is quite noticeable; but if you simultaneously make a semi-circular sweep of your hand and arm from left to right, the slight movement of the pack in your hand is much less likely to be seen.

To Spring the Cards from one Hand to the Other.—This is a mere flourish, and belongs rather to the art of the juggler than to that of the magician; but it is so frequently exhibited by conjurors that a work on magic would hardly be complete without some notice of it. The cards are held in the right hand, between the38 tips of the second and third finger at the top, and the thumb at the bottom. If the thumb and fingers are now brought slowly nearer together, so as to bend the cards slightly, they will one by one, in quick succession (beginning with the bottom card) spring away from the pack; and if the pressure be continued, the whole of the cards will spring away one after the other in this manner. If the left hand be held at ten or twelve inches distance from the right, with the fingers slightly bent, the released cards will be shot into the left hand, which, as the last cards reach it, should be rapidly brought palm to palm with the right, and square up the pack to repeat the process. By giving the body a quick half turn to the right as the cards are sprung from one hand to the other, you may make the hands (and with them the moving cards) describe an arc of about two feet, and so deceive the eye of the spectator into the belief that the hands are that distance apart, though in reality, as they both move together in the same direction, they retain throughout their original relative distance of ten or twelve inches.

To Switch the Cards from One Hand to the Other.—This is just a showy trick, more associated with the skill of a juggler than a magician, but it's so commonly seen in magic acts that no book on the subject would be complete without a mention of it. The cards are held in the right hand, between the tips of the second and third fingers at the top and the thumb at the bottom. If you slowly bring the thumb and fingers closer together, bending the cards slightly, they will start to spring away from the pack one by one, starting with the bottom card. If you keep applying pressure, all the cards will spring away in this way. If you hold your left hand about ten to twelve inches away from your right, with your fingers slightly bent, the released cards will shoot into your left hand. As the last cards arrive, quickly bring your hands palm to palm to square up the pack and repeat the trick. By giving your body a quick half turn to the right while you spring the cards from one hand to the other, you can create the illusion that your hands (and the moving cards) describe an arc of about two feet, tricking the spectator into thinking the hands are that far apart, even though they maintain their original distance of ten to twelve inches as they both move in the same direction.

To Throw a Card.—This sleight also belongs rather to the ornamental than to the practical part of conjuring, but it is by no means to be despised. It is a decided addition to a card trick for the performer to be able to say, “You observe, ladies and gentlemen, that the cards I use are all of a perfectly ordinary character,” and by way of offering them for examination, to send half-a-dozen in succession flying into the remotest corners of the hall or theatre.

To Toss a Card.—This trick is more about show than practicality in magic, but it's definitely valuable. It really enhances a card trick when the performer can say, “You see, ladies and gentlemen, that the cards I’m using are all completely ordinary,” and then as a way of letting the audience check them out, send six cards flying one after another into the farthest corners of the hall or theater.

Fig. 27.

The card should be held lightly between the first and second fingers, in the position shown in Fig. 27. The hand should be curved inward toward the wrist, and then straightened with a sudden jerk, the arm being at the same time shot sharply forward. The effect of this movement is that the card, as it leaves the hand, revolves in the plane of its surface in the direction indicated by the dotted line, and39 during the rest of its course maintains such revolution. This spinning motion gives the flight of the card a strength and directness which it would seem impossible to impart to so small and light an object.

The card should be held lightly between the index and middle fingers, in the position shown in Fig. 27. The hand should be curved inward toward the wrist, then straightened with a quick flick, while the arm is pushed sharply forward. The result of this movement is that the card, as it leaves the hand, spins in the direction indicated by the dotted line, and39 throughout its path, it keeps spinning. This spinning motion gives the card's flight a strength and precision that seems impossible for something so small and light.

A skilled performer will propel cards in this way to a distance of sixty or eighty feet, each card travelling with the precision, and well-nigh the speed, of an arrow shot from a bow. The movement, though perfectly simple in theory, is by no means easy to acquire in practice. Indeed, we know no sleight which, as a rule, gives more trouble at the outset; but, after a certain amount of labour with little or no result, the student suddenly acquires the desired knack, and thenceforward finds no difficulty in the matter.

A skilled performer will throw cards like this to a distance of sixty or eighty feet, each card flying with the accuracy and almost the speed of an arrow shot from a bow. The technique, while straightforward in theory, is definitely not easy to master in practice. In fact, we know of no trick that usually causes more frustration at the start; however, after some effort yielding little or no progress, the learner suddenly gets the hang of it, and from then on, finds it easy.

The Bridge.—The object of the bridge is to enable the performer, with ease and certainty, to cut or otherwise divide the pack at a given card. It is made as follows: Holding the cards in the left hand, with the thumb across the pack, the performer covers them for an instant with his right hand, as if about to make the pass. Grasping the pack between the thumb and second finger of this hand, he bends the whole of the cards slightly inwards over the first finger of the left hand, immediately afterwards bending the upper or outward portion of the pack backwards in the opposite direction. The effect of the double movement is that the two halves of the pack are bent in a double concave form, thus )(, though in a much less degree. If the cards be now cut, the concave portions, instead of being, as at first, back to back, will be face to face, thus (), leaving in the centre of the pack an elliptical opening, of a maximum width of about an eighth of an inch. This slight hiatus in the middle will generally cause a person who is invited to cut to do so at that particular point, and will in any case enable the performer either to cut or to make the pass at that point with the greatest ease. The cases in which the bridge may be employed with advantage will be more particularly indicated when we come to practically apply the processes already described, but it has a special use which may be at once mentioned. It will be remembered that some of the false shuffles already described leave the cards as if cut, though they in other respects retain their pre-arranged order; and it therefore becomes necessary40 to again cut them at a particular point, in order to bring them back to their original condition. This point is ascertained by the use of the bridge. The cards are first bent in the manner above described; the false shuffle is then made, leaving the cards in effect cut; but by again cutting or making the pass at the bridge, they are once more precisely as at first.

The Bridge.—The purpose of the bridge is to allow the performer to easily and accurately cut or divide the deck at a specific card. Here’s how to do it: Start by holding the cards in your left hand with your thumb across the top. For a moment, cover the pack with your right hand, as if preparing to perform a move. Grasp the pack between the thumb and index finger of your right hand, and slightly bend all the cards inward over your left index finger. Then, bend the top or outer part of the pack backward in the opposite direction. This double movement causes the two halves of the pack to curve in a double concave shape, like this ), but to a lesser extent. If you cut the cards now, the concave parts, instead of being back to back, will be face to face, like this (), creating an elliptical gap in the center of the deck, about an eighth of an inch wide. This small opening usually prompts someone invited to cut the deck to do so at that exact spot, and it will certainly allow the performer to either cut or perform the move at that point with ease. The situations in which the bridge can be beneficial will be detailed when we apply the processes discussed, but it has a specific use that should be mentioned right away. It's important to note that some of the false shuffles discussed earlier leave the cards appearing as if they were cut, while still keeping them in their original order; therefore, it’s necessary to cut them again at a specific point to restore them to their original state. This point is determined using the bridge. First, bend the cards as previously described; then perform the false shuffle, which leaves the cards effectively cut. By cutting or making the move at the bridge again, they will return to their original arrangement exactly as before. 40

We have endeavoured to be as explicit as possible in the foregoing description of the different sleight-of-hand processes, so that the reader may, by following our instructions closely, be able to teach himself, unassisted, to perform the various movements described. We have done our best to make our descriptions intelligible, and trust that we have fairly succeeded. We should, however, strongly advise any student who desires to make rapid progress to take, if possible, a few preliminary lessons under the personal guidance of a competent performer, professional or amateur. It is an old saying that an ounce of example is worth a pound of precept, and a reader who has once or twice seen the processes we have described practically illustrated by skilful hands, will not only avoid the difficulties which are sure to be at first found in even the clearest written instructions, but will escape the formation of bad habits, which it may take much time and trouble to eradicate. Should the novice seek such assistance, he must not expect to find that any one performer uses indifferently all the processes we have described. Every Professor has his own favourite methods of procedure, and, generally speaking, pours scorn and contumely upon all others; or, in the words of Byron (a little altered)—

We have tried to be as clear as possible in the description of the different sleight-of-hand techniques above so that readers can, by closely following our instructions, teach themselves to perform the various movements described without help. We’ve done our best to make our descriptions understandable and hope we’ve succeeded. However, we strongly recommend that any student who wants to make quick progress take a few introductory lessons guided by a skilled performer, whether professional or amateur, if possible. There’s an old saying that an ounce of example is worth a pound of advice, and someone who has seen the processes we described demonstrated by skilled hands will not only avoid the challenges that come with even the clearest written instructions but will also prevent the development of bad habits that can be hard to break later. If the beginner seeks such help, they shouldn’t expect to find that any one performer uses all the techniques we described indiscriminately. Each expert has their preferred methods and usually looks down upon all others; or, in the words of Byron (a little changed)—

"He's thinking about compounds for sleights,
By criticizing those he doesn't feel positively about."

The student who commences his labours without such assistance must make his own selection. In the “pass” we should recommend him to stick to the first method, the remaining passes being rather curious than useful. Among the false shuffles, the first, third, fifth, and sixth will be found the most effective. For the remaining processes he may be guided by his own taste, and the greater or less facility with which his fingers adapt themselves to one or the other of them.

The student who starts their work without help needs to choose for themselves. In the “pass,” we suggest they stick to the first method, as the other passes are more interesting than practical. Among the false shuffles, the first, third, fifth, and sixth will be the most effective. For the other techniques, they can go with what they prefer and how easily their fingers adjust to each one.

41 The various sleights above described will cost the student some time and perseverance before they are fairly mastered, and until they are so it is hopeless to attempt any of the more brilliant feats. For his amusement in the meantime, we subjoin a few tricks for which sleight-of-hand is not necessary, but which, if performed with neatness and tact, will cause considerable astonishment to the uninitiated.

41 The different tricks mentioned above will take the student some time and dedication to master, and until then, it’s pointless to try any of the more impressive feats. For entertainment in the meantime, we’ll share a few tricks that don’t require sleight-of-hand, but if done skillfully and with flair, they will definitely amaze those who aren’t familiar with them.


42

42

CHAPTER III.
Card Tricks with Regular Cards that Don't Need Sleight-of-Hand.

There is a large class of tricks which may be described as consisting of two elements—the discovery of a chosen card by the performer, and the revelation of his knowledge in a more or less striking manner. We propose to give, in the first place, three or four methods of discovering a given card, and then a similar variety of methods of concluding the trick. It must be remembered that for our present purpose we exclude all tricks for which any special dexterity is requisite. There will be little that is absolutely novel in this chapter, but it will be for the student to supply the want of freshness in his materials by the ingenuity of his combinations.

There is a large group of tricks that can be described as having two main parts—the performer finding a chosen card, and showing off their knowledge in a striking way. First, we’ll present three or four ways to discover a specific card, followed by a similar variety of methods to wrap up the trick. Please note that for our current purpose, we’re leaving out any tricks that require special skill. This chapter may not contain much that’s completely new, but it's up to the student to make their materials feel fresh through creative combinations.

Fig. 28.

Simple Modes of Discovering a given Card. First Method.—Hold the pack face downwards in the left hand, having previously noticed the bottom card. Secretly draw down this card about three-quarters of an inch, and hold the part so drawn down between the thumb and fourth finger of the right hand, the palm of the right hand being above the cards. (See Fig. 28.) Now, with the tip of the first or second finger of the right hand, draw down the cards one by one about half an inch (beginning with the top card, and so on), inviting your audience to stop you at any card they may choose. When they do so, draw down all the cards, as far as you have gone, completely away from the remaining cards; but with them draw down at the same time the bottom card. This card, coalescing with the upper portion, will be, to the eyes of the spectators, that at which you were directed to stop. Holding the cards with their backs towards you, request them to observe what the card is. The pack may now43 be shuffled to any extent, but, being acquainted with the card, you can find or name it at pleasure.

Easy Ways to Locate a Specific Card. First Method.—Hold the deck face down in your left hand, having already noticed the bottom card. Secretly pull this card down about three-quarters of an inch, and hold the part you pulled down between your thumb and fourth finger of your right hand, with the palm of your right hand above the cards. (See Fig. 28.) Now, using the tip of your first or second finger on your right hand, pull down the cards one by one about half an inch (starting with the top card, and so on), inviting your audience to stop you at any card they choose. When they do, pull down all the cards you've gone through completely away from the remaining cards; but make sure to also draw down the bottom card at the same time. This card will blend with the top portion and will look to the spectators like the card they directed you to stop at. With the cards facing away from you, ask them to see what the card is. The deck can now be shuffled as much as you want, but since you know the card, you can find or name it whenever you like.

The above may be employed as a means of “forcing,” where it is essential to force a given card, and you are not sufficiently proficient to feel certain of effecting that object by the regular method. Thus, suppose that the card which you desire to force is the seven of diamonds, you place that card at the bottom of the pack, and proceed as above directed. When the audience desire you to stop, you draw off the upper packet, and with it the seven of diamonds, which will thereby become the bottom card of that packet. You request them to note the card, and at once hand the pack to be shuffled. This is a very simple and easy mode of forcing, but it is very generally known, and it would not, therefore, be safe to use it before a large or very acute audience.

The above technique can be used as a way of "forcing," when you need to make sure a specific card is chosen, but you’re not skilled enough to guarantee that using the standard method. For example, if you want to force the seven of diamonds, place that card at the bottom of the deck and follow the steps outlined above. When the audience asks you to stop, you pull off the top packet, which includes the seven of diamonds, making it the bottom card of that packet. You ask them to remember the card and then hand the deck over for shuffling. This is a straightforward and easy way to force a card, but it's quite widely known, so it wouldn’t be wise to use it in front of a large or particularly sharp audience.

Second Method.—Deal the cards into three packs, face upwards, and request a spectator to note a card, and remember in which heap it is. When you have dealt twenty-one cards, throw the rest aside, these not being employed in the trick. Ask in which heap the chosen card is, and place that heap between the other two, and deal again as before. Again ask the question, place the heap indicated in the middle, and deal again a third time. Note particularly the fourth or middle card of each heap, as one or other of those three cards will be the card thought of. Ask, for the last time, in which heap the chosen card now is, when you may be certain that it was the card which you noted as being the middle card of that heap.

Second Method.—Deal the cards into three piles, face up, and ask a spectator to choose a card and remember which pile it’s in. After dealing twenty-one cards, set the rest aside since they won’t be used. Ask which pile has the chosen card, place that pile between the other two, and deal again as before. Once more, ask the question, put the indicated pile in the middle, and deal a third time. Pay special attention to the fourth or middle card of each pile, as one of those three cards will be the selected card. Finally, ask once again which pile contains the chosen card, and you'll be sure it was the card you noted as the middle card of that pile.

This same effect will be produced with any number of cards, so long as such number is odd, and a multiple of three. The process and result will be the same, save that if fifteen cards are used each44 heap will consist of five cards, and the third card of each will be the middle one; if twenty-seven cards, each heap will consist of nine cards, and the fifth will be the selected one, and so on.

The same effect can be created with any odd number of cards that is also a multiple of three. The method and outcome will remain the same, except if you use fifteen cards, each pile will have five cards, and the third card in each pile will be the middle one; if you use twenty-seven cards, each pile will have nine cards, and the fifth card will be the chosen one, and so on.

Third Method.—Take any number of the cards, and deal them face upwards upon the table, noting in your own mind the first card dealt. Ask any number of persons each to note a card, and to remember at what number it falls. When you have dealt all the cards you first took in your hand, take them up again, without disturbing their order, and turn them face downwards. In order to show that the trick is not performed by any arithmetical calculation (you should lay great stress upon this, the fact being precisely the reverse), invite the company to take any number they choose of the remaining cards (such number being unknown to you), and place them either above or below the cards you have dealt. Allow the cards to be cut (not shuffled) as many times as the audience please. You now, for the first time, ask each person what was the number of his card, and, on being informed, again deal the cards, turning them face upwards. When the original first card appears, count on (silently) from this as number one to the number mentioned, at which number the noted card will again appear. Should the whole of the cards be dealt out without reaching the required number, turn the cards over again, and continue from the top of the pack until that number is reached.

Third Method.—Take any number of cards and lay them face up on the table, keeping in mind the first card dealt. Ask several people to remember a card and note its position. Once you've dealt all the cards you initially had, pick them up again without changing their order and flip them face down. To emphasize that the trick isn't done through any calculations (you should stress this, even though it’s actually the opposite), invite the group to take any number of the remaining cards (a quantity unknown to you) and place them either above or below the cards you've dealt. Allow the audience to cut the cards (but not shuffle them) as many times as they like. Now, for the first time, ask each person what the position of their card was, and when they tell you, deal the cards again, turning them face up. When the original first card comes up, count silently from this as number one to the number they mentioned, where the noted card will reappear. If all the cards are dealt without reaching the specified number, flip the cards back over and continue from the top of the deck until that number is reached.

Having indicated how a card may be discovered, we proceed to describe various modes of disclosing the card thus ascertained.

Having shown how to find a card, we will now describe different ways to reveal the card that has been identified.

First Method.—Get the card to the top of the pack. Give the pack to some person to hold. The cards should be face upwards, so that the chosen card will be undermost, with the thumb of the holder above and the fingers below the pack. The fingers should extend under the pack for about an inch, but the thumb above not more than half an inch. Request the person to nip the cards tightly, and as he does so give them a smart downward rap with your forefinger, which will knock all the cards out of his hand with the exception of the lowest card, which will be retained by the greater friction of the fingers, and will remain staring him in the face. This is a very old and simple finish, but it appears marvellous to those who witness it for the first time.

First Method.—Get the card to the top of the deck. Hand the deck to someone to hold. The cards should be facing up, so the chosen card will be at the bottom, with the holder's thumb on top and fingers underneath the deck. The fingers should stick out about an inch under the deck, but the thumb shouldn't extend more than half an inch above it. Ask the person to grip the cards tightly, and as they do that, give them a sharp downward tap with your forefinger. This will cause all the cards to fall out of their hands except for the bottom card, which will stay in place due to the greater friction from the fingers, leaving it clearly visible. This is an old and straightforward trick, but it seems amazing to those seeing it for the first time.

You may, if you prefer it, hold the cards yourself as above directed,45 and allow another person to strike them downwards. It is well to moisten the fingers (not the thumb) slightly, as you thereby increase the hold on the chosen card.

You can, if you'd like, hold the cards yourself as mentioned above,45 and let someone else strike them downwards. It's helpful to slightly moisten your fingers (not your thumb) because that increases your grip on the selected card.

Fig. 29.

Second Method.—Get the card to the top of the pack, and hold the pack lightly between the thumb and fingers of the right hand, the thumb being on the face, and the fingers (which should be previously slightly moistened) on the back of the cards. (See Fig. 29.) Give a sharp downward jerk of the hand and arm, when, as in the last case, all the cards will fall save the top card, which is retained by the greater friction of the moistened fingers.

Second Method.—Move the card to the top of the deck and hold the deck gently between the thumb and fingers of your right hand, with your thumb on the front and your fingers (which should be slightly damp) on the back of the cards. (See Fig. 29.) Give a quick downward jerk of your hand and arm, and, as in the previous example, all the cards will fall except the top card, which stays in place due to the increased friction from your damp fingers.

Third Method.—Get the chosen card to the top, and hold the pack in the right hand, lengthways and face downwards, about two feet above the floor or table. Push the top card a little off the pack sideways, so as to make it project throughout its whole length about an inch beyond the rest of the cards. Now let fall the pack, when the resistance of the air will cause the top card to turn over in its fall, and to appear face upwards, all the other cards remaining face downwards.

Third Method.—Get the chosen card to the top, and hold the deck in your right hand, lengthwise and face down, about two feet above the floor or table. Push the top card slightly off the deck to the side, so that it sticks out about an inch beyond the other cards. Now drop the deck, and the air resistance will make the top card flip over as it falls, revealing it face up while all the other cards stay face down.

Fourth Method.—Place the card in question and seven other indifferent cards in two rows, face downwards, on the table. Keep in your own mind which is the chosen card, but do not let the audience see the face of either of the cards. Ask the drawer if he is sure that he will know his card again. He will, of course, answer “yes.” Now ask either the same or another person to touch four of the eight cards upon the table. Necessarily, the four which he touches will either include or not include the chosen card. In either case you take up (whether he touches them or not) the four which do not include the chosen card, remarking, “I will return these to the pack.” Invite the same person to touch two out of the four which remain. Again take up the two (whether touched or not touched) which do not include the chosen card, saying, “I return these also to the pack.”46 You have now only two cards left on the table, one of which is the chosen card. Invite one of the spectators to touch one of these cards. As before, whichever he touches, you pick up and return to the pack the non-chosen card, remarking, “We have now only one card left. You have all seen that I dealt out eight cards on the table, and that I have withdrawn seven, you yourselves choosing which I should withdraw. Now, sir, be kind enough to name the card you drew.” The card having been named, you turn over the card left on the table, and show that it is the right one.

Fourth Method.—Place the card in question and seven other random cards in two rows, face down, on the table. Keep in your mind which card is the chosen one, but don’t let the audience see the face of any of the cards. Ask the person drawing if they are sure they'll recognize their card again. They will, of course, say “yes.” Now ask either the same person or another to touch four of the eight cards on the table. The four they touch will either include or not include the chosen card. In either case, you will take up the four cards that do not include the chosen card, saying, “I’ll return these to the pack.” Invite the same person to touch two out of the four that remain. Again, take up the two cards (whether they touched them or not) that do not include the chosen card, saying, “I’ll return these as well to the pack.”46 Now you only have two cards left on the table, one of which is the chosen card. Invite one of the spectators to touch one of these cards. As before, whichever one they touch, you pick up and return the non-chosen card to the pack, saying, “Now we have only one card left. You have all seen that I laid out eight cards on the table, and I have removed seven, with you all choosing which ones to take away. Now, sir, please name the card you picked.” Once the card has been named, you turn over the card left on the table and show that it is the correct one.

This trick is based upon a kind of double entendre, which, though apparently obvious, is rarely seen through by the audience if performed in a quick and lively manner. The secret lies in the performer interpreting the touching of the cards in two different senses, as may best suit his purpose. If the chosen card is not among the cards touched, he interprets the touching as meaning that the cards touched are rejected, and to be returned to the pack. If the card is among those touched, he interprets the touching in the opposite sense,—namely, that the cards touched are to be retained, and the others rejected. If he is lucky in the cards touched, it may happen that he is able to interpret the touching in the same sense throughout the trick, in which case there will be no clue whatever to the secret; but even in the opposite case, where he is compelled to put aside first the cards touched and then the cards not touched, the difference generally passes unnoticed by the spectators, or, if noticed, is put down as a slip on the part of the performer, rather than as being, as it really is, the key to the trick.

This trick is based on a kind of double entendre, which, although it seems obvious, is rarely recognized by the audience if done quickly and energetically. The key is for the performer to interpret the touching of the cards in two different ways, depending on what serves his purpose best. If the chosen card isn't among the cards touched, he interprets the touching to mean that those cards are rejected and should be returned to the pack. If the card is among those touched, he interprets the touching in the opposite way—meaning that the touched cards are to be kept, and the others rejected. If he's lucky with the cards touched, he might interpret the touching consistently throughout the trick, making the secret completely undetectable; but even in the case where he has to set aside the touched cards first and then the untouched ones, the difference usually goes unnoticed by the spectators, or if it's noticed, they're likely to dismiss it as a mistake by the performer rather than recognizing it as the true key to the trick.

Where the performer is proficient in sleight-of-hand, the above may be worked up into a really brilliant trick. Any indifferent card being drawn and returned, is brought to the top by the pass, palmed, and the pack shuffled. Eight cards are laid out, and the drawn card revealed as above.

Where the performer is skilled in sleight-of-hand, the above can be developed into a truly impressive trick. Any random card being selected and returned is brought to the top with a pass, palmed, and the deck shuffled. Eight cards are laid out, and the selected card is revealed as described above.

Having described these few commencements and terminations, we will next proceed to the discussion of some complete tricks.

Having outlined these few beginnings and endings, we will now move on to discussing some complete tricks.

Fig. 30.

To make a Card vanish from the Pack, and be found in a Person’s Pocket.—Slightly moisten the back of your left hand. Offer the pack to be shuffled. Place it face downwards on47 the table, and request one of the company to look at the top card. Request him to place the back of his left hand upon the cards, and press heavily upon it with his right. In order that he may the better comprehend your meaning, place your own hands as described (see Fig. 30), and request him to imitate you. When you remove your left hand, the back being moistened, the card will stick to it. Put your hands carelessly behind you, and with the right hand remove the card. All will crowd round to see the trick. Pretend to be very particular that the person who places his hand on the card shall do so in precisely the right position. This will not only give you time, but draw all eyes to his hands. Meanwhile, watch your opportunity and slip the card into the tail pocket of one or other of the spectators. Now announce that you are about to order the top card, which all have seen, and which Mr. A. is holding down so exceedingly tight, to fly away from the pack and into the pocket of Mr. B., making the choice apparently hap-hazard. On examination your commands will be found to have been fulfilled. It has a good effect, when practicable, to slip the card into the pocket of the same person who is pressing upon the pack.

To make a card vanish from the deck and show up in someone's pocket.—Lightly moisten the back of your left hand. Offer the deck to be shuffled. Place it face down on 47 the table, and ask someone in the group to look at the top card. Ask them to place the back of their left hand on the cards and press down firmly with their right hand. To make your instructions clearer, show your own hands as described (see Fig. 30), and ask them to copy you. When you lift your left hand, the moistened back will cause the card to stick to it. Carelessly put your hands behind your back, and with your right hand, take the card. Everyone will gather around to see the trick. Act as if it’s very important for the person to place their hand on the card in exactly the right position. This will give you time and draw all eyes to their hands. Meanwhile, look for your chance to slip the card into the back pocket of one of the spectators. Now announce that you’re about to make the top card, which everyone has seen and which Mr. A. is holding down very tightly, fly away from the deck and into the pocket of Mr. B., making it seem random. When checked, your commands will have been achieved. It’s particularly effective, when possible, to slip the card into the pocket of the same person who is pressing down on the deck.

To place the Four Kings in different parts of the Pack, and to bring them together by a Simple Cut.—Take the four kings (or any other four cards at pleasure), and exhibit them fanwise (see Fig. 31), but secretly place behind the second one (the king of diamonds in the figure) two other court cards of any description, which, being thus hidden behind the king, will not be visible. The audience being satisfied that the four cards are really48 the four kings, and none other, fold them together, and place them at the top of the pack. Draw attention to the fact that you are about to distribute these four kings in different parts of the pack. Take up the top card, which, being really a king, you may exhibit without apparent intention, and place it at the bottom. Take the next card, which the spectators suppose to be also a king, and place it about half way down the pack, and the next, in like manner, a little higher. Take the fourth card, which, being actually a king, you may show carelessly, and replace it on the top of the pack. You have now really three kings at the top and one at the bottom, though the audience imagine that they have seen them distributed in different parts of the pack, and are proportionately surprised, when the cards are cut, to find that all the kings are again together.

Place the Four Kings in various sections of the Pack and then reunite them using a Simple Cut.—Take the four kings (or any four cards you want), and fan them out (see Fig. 31), but secretly hide two other court cards behind the second one (the king of diamonds in the figure), so they aren’t visible. Once the audience is convinced that the four cards are indeed the four kings and nothing else, stack them together and place them on top of the pack. Point out that you're about to distribute these four kings in various parts of the pack. Pick up the top card, which is really a king, and show it without making it obvious, then place it at the bottom. Take the next card, which the spectators believe is also a king, and place it about halfway down the pack, and do the same with the next card, putting it a little higher. Finally, take the fourth card, which is actually a king, show it casually, and put it back on top of the pack. Now you have three kings on top and one at the bottom, while the audience thinks they've seen them spread out in different areas of the pack, so they’re understandably surprised when the cards are cut and all the kings are together again.

Fig. 31.

It is best to use knaves or queens for the two extra cards, as being less distinguishable from the kings, should a spectator catch a chance glimpse of their faces.

It’s better to use jacks or queens for the two extra cards since they look less like the kings if a spectator happens to catch a glimpse of their faces.

There are other and better modes of bringing together four apparently separated cards by the aid of sleight-of-hand, which will be explained in due course; but we have thought it well to give also this simpler method, as it is always an advantage to possess two different modes of performing the same feat.

There are other and better ways to bring together four seemingly separate cards using sleight-of-hand, which will be explained later; however, we thought it was useful to include this simpler method, as it's always beneficial to have two different approaches to accomplish the same trick.

The Four Kings being placed under the Hand of one Person, and the Four Sevens under the Hand of Another, to make them Change Places at Command.—Exhibit, fanwise, in one hand the four kings, and in the other the four eights. Behind the hindmost of the kings, and so as not to be noticeable by the49 audience, secretly place beforehand the four sevens. Hold the four eights in the other hand in such manner that the lower of the two centre pips of the foremost is concealed by the first and second fingers. The same pip on each of the other cards will be concealed by the card immediately before it, so that the four cards will to the spectators appear equally like the sevens. Place the pack face downwards on the table. Draw attention to the fact that you hold in one hand the four kings, and in the other the four sevens (really the disguised eights). Fold up the supposed sevens, and place them on the pack. Fold up the kings, and place them on the top of the supposed sevens. As the real sevens were behind the last of the kings, they are now on the top, with the kings next, though the audience are persuaded that the kings are uppermost, and the sevens next following. Deal off, slowly and carefully, the four top cards, saying, “I take off these four kings,” and lay them on the table, requesting one of the spectators to place his hand firmly upon them. Do the same with the next four cards (which are really the kings). Ask if the persons in charge of the cards are quite sure that they are still under their hands, and, upon receiving their assurance to that effect, command the cards they hold to change places, which they will be found to have done.

One person holds the Four Kings, while another has the Four Sevens, both poised to switch places at a command.—Display the four kings fanwise in one hand and the four eights in the other. Behind the last king, and in a way that the audience can’t notice, secretly place the four sevens beforehand. Hold the four eights in such a way that the bottom of the two center pips on the front card is hidden by the first and second fingers. The same pip on the other cards will be hidden by the card right before it, so the four cards appear to the spectators to be all sevens. Place the pack face down on the table. Point out that you’re holding the four kings in one hand and the four sevens (which are actually the disguised eights) in the other. Fold the supposed sevens up and set them on the pack. Fold the kings up and place them on top of the supposed sevens. Since the actual sevens were behind the last king, they’re now on top, with the kings underneath, while the audience believes the kings are on top and the sevens are next. Slowly and carefully deal the top four cards, saying, “I’m taking off these four kings,” and lay them on the table, asking one of the spectators to place their hand firmly on them. Do the same with the next four cards (which are actually the kings). Ask if the people in charge of the cards are sure that they’re still under their hands, and after they affirm that, command the cards they hold to switch places, which they will have done.

Four Packets of Cards having been Formed face downwards on the Table, to discover the Total Value of the Undermost Cards.—This trick must be performed with the piquet pack of thirty-two cards. Invite one of the spectators to privately select any four cards, and to place them, separately and face downwards, on the table; then, counting an ace as eleven, a court card as ten, and any other card according to the number of its pips, to place upon each of these four so many cards as, added to its value thus estimated, shall make fifteen. (It must be remembered that value is only to be taken into consideration as to the original four cards, those placed on them counting as one each, whatever they may happen to be.) You meanwhile retire. When the four heaps are complete, advance to the table, and observe how many cards are left over and above the four heaps. To this number mentally add thirty-two. The total will give you the aggregate value of the four lowest cards, calculated as above mentioned.

Four packs of cards have been set face down on the table to determine the total value of the bottom cards.—This trick should be done with a piquet pack of thirty-two cards. Invite one of the spectators to secretly choose any four cards and place them face down on the table, each one separately; then, counting an ace as eleven, a face card as ten, and any other card by its number of pips, put on each of these four cards enough additional cards so that when their values are added up, they equal fifteen. (It’s important to remember that value only applies to the original four cards, and the extra cards on top of them count as one each, no matter what they are.) You should step aside. After the four piles are finished, return to the table and see how many cards are left over from the four piles. Mentally add thirty-two to that number. The total will give you the combined value of the four bottom cards, calculated as mentioned above.

50 You should not let your audience perceive that you count the remaining cards, or they will readily conjecture that the trick depends on some arithmetical principle. You may say, “You will observe that I do not look even at one single card:” and, so saying, throw down the surplus cards with apparent carelessness upon the table, when they are sure to fall sufficiently scattered to enable you to count them without attracting observation.

50 You shouldn't let your audience see that you're counting the leftover cards, or they'll quickly guess that the trick relies on some math principle. You can say, “Notice that I’m not even looking at a single card:” and while saying this, casually toss the extra cards onto the table, making sure they land scattered enough for you to count them without drawing attention.

To Name all the Cards in the Pack in Succession.—This is an old trick, but a very good one. To perform it, you must arrange the cards of a whist pack beforehand, according to a given formula, which forms a sort of memoria technica. There are several used, but all are similar in effect. The following is one of the simplest:—

Name all the cards in the pack in order.—This is an old trick, but it's a great one. To do it, you need to arrange the cards of a whist pack in advance, based on a specific formula, which creates a kind of memoria technica. There are several variations, but they all work similarly. Here’s one of the simplest:—

"Eight kings tried to save
"Ninety-five women for one ailing fool.”

These words suggest, as you will readily see, eight, king, three, ten, two, seven, nine, five, queen, four, ace, six, knave. You must also have a determinate order for the suits, which should be red and black alternately, say, diamonds, clubs, hearts, spades. Sort the pack for convenience into the four suits, and then arrange the cards as follows: Take in your left hand, face upwards, the eight of diamonds, on this place the king of clubs, on this the three of hearts, then the ten of spades, then the two of diamonds, and so on, till the whole of the cards are exhausted. This arrangement must be made privately beforehand, and you must either make this the first of your series of tricks, or (which is better, as it negatives the idea of arrangement) have two packs of the same pattern, and secretly exchange the prepared pack, at a suitable opportunity, for that with which you have already been performing. Spread the cards (which may previously be cut any number of times), and offer them to a person to draw one. While he is looking at the card, glance quickly at the card next above that which he has drawn, which we will suppose is the five of diamonds. You will remember that in your memoria technica “five” is followed by “ladies” (queen). You know then that the next card, the one drawn, was a queen. You know also that clubs follow diamonds: ergo, the card drawn is the queen of clubs. Name it, and51 request the drawer to replace it. Ask some one again to cut the cards, and repeat the trick in the same form with another person, but this time pass all the cards which were above the card drawn, below the remainder of the pack. This is equivalent to cutting the pack at that particular card. After naming the card drawn, ask if the company would like to know any more. Name the cards next following the card already drawn, taking them one by one from the pack and laying them face upwards on the table, to show that you have named them correctly. After a little practice, it will cost you but a very slight effort of memory to name in succession all the cards in the pack.

These words clearly suggest the following order: eight, king, three, ten, two, seven, nine, five, queen, four, ace, six, knave. You also need to have a specific order for the suits, which should alternate between red and black, like this: diamonds, clubs, hearts, spades. For convenience, sort the deck into the four suits and then arrange the cards as follows: in your left hand, face upwards, place the eight of diamonds, then the king of clubs on top of that, followed by the three of hearts, the ten of spades, the two of diamonds, and continue stacking until all the cards are used. This setup must be done privately in advance, and you should either make this the first trick in your series or, which is better because it eliminates the idea of arrangement, have two decks of the same design and secretly swap the prearranged deck for the one you've been using at the right moment. Spread the cards (which can have been shuffled any number of times) and ask someone to draw one. While they’re looking at their card, quickly glance at the card above it, which we'll say is the five of diamonds. You’ll remember that in your memoria technica, “five” is followed by “ladies” (queen). So now you know that the selected card was a queen. You also know that clubs follow diamonds: ergo, the drawn card is the queen of clubs. Name it, and 51 ask the participant to put it back. Have someone else cut the cards, and repeat the trick with another person, but this time move all the cards above the selected card to the bottom of the remaining deck. This is like cutting the deck at that specific card. After announcing the chosen card, ask if the group wants to know more. Name the cards that come after the already selected card, taking them one at a time from the deck and placing them face up on the table to show you named them correctly. With a bit of practice, it will take only a minimal effort on your part to name all the cards in the deck in order.

The Cards being Cut, to tell whether the Number Cut is Odd or Even.—This is another trick performed by the aid of the prepared pack last described, and has the advantage of being little known, even to those who are acquainted with other uses of the arranged pack. Notice whether the bottom card for the time being is red or black. Place the pack on the table, and invite any person to cut, announcing that you will tell by the weight of the cards cut whether the number is odd or even. Take the cut cards (i.e., the cards which before the cut were at the top of the pack), and poising them carefully in your hand, as though testing their weight, glance slily at the bottom card. If it is of the same colour as the bottom card of the other or lowest portion, the cards cut are an even number; if of a different colour, they are odd.

Cutting the cards to see if the number cut is odd or even.—This is another trick using the prepared pack mentioned earlier, and it has the advantage of being relatively unknown, even to those familiar with other uses of the arranged pack. Pay attention to whether the bottom card is red or black. Place the pack on the table and invite someone to cut it, stating that you will determine by the weight of the cut cards whether the number is odd or even. Take the cut cards (i.e., the cards that were on top of the pack before the cut), and balance them carefully in your hand, as if checking their weight, while sneakily looking at the bottom card. If it matches the color of the bottom card of the remaining pile, the number of cards cut is even; if it’s a different color, the number is odd.

The Whist Trick.—To deal yourself all the Trumps.—The cards being arranged as above mentioned, you may challenge any of the company to play a hand at whist with you. The cards are cut in the ordinary way (not shuffled). You yourself deal, when, of course, the turn-up card falls to you. On taking up the cards, it will be found that each person has all the cards of one suit, but your own suit being that of the turn-up card, is, of course, trumps; and having the whole thirteen, you must necessarily win every trick.

The Whist Trick.—To deal yourself all the Trumps.—With the cards arranged as mentioned above, you can challenge anyone in the group to play a hand of whist with you. The cards are cut in the usual way (not shuffled). You deal the cards, so the turn-up card is yours. When you pick up the cards, you'll see that each player has all the cards of one suit, and since your suit matches the turn-up card, it is trumps; having all thirteen cards, you will definitely win every trick.

The weak point of the feat is, that the cards being regularly sorted into the four suits, the audience can hardly help suspecting that the pack was pre-arranged beforehand. There is another and better mode of performing the trick, by which you still hold all the52 trumps, but the three remaining players have the ordinary mixed hands. This method, however, involves sleight-of-hand, and would therefore be out of place in the present chapter.

The downside of the trick is that since the cards are organized into the four suits, the audience may start to suspect that the deck was set up in advance. There's a different and more effective way to perform the trick where you still have all the52 trumps, but the other three players have regular mixed hands. However, this method requires sleight-of-hand, making it unsuitable for this chapter.

To allow a Person to think of a Card, and to make that Card appear at such Number in the Pack as Another Person shall Name.—Allow the pack to be shuffled and cut as freely as the company please. When they are fully satisfied that the cards are well mixed, offer the pack to any of the spectators, and request him to look over the cards, and think of any one, and to remember the number at which it stands in the pack, reckoning from the bottom card upwards. You then remark, “Ladies and gentlemen, you will take particular notice that I have not asked a single question, and yet I already know the card; and if anyone will kindly indicate the place in the pack at which you desire it to appear, I will at once cause it to take that position. I must only ask that, by arrangement between yourselves, you will make the number at which the card is to appear higher than that which it originally held.” We will suppose that the audience decide that the card shall appear at number 22. Carelessly remark, “It is not even necessary for me to see the cards.” So saying, hold the pack under the table, and rapidly count off twenty-two cards from the bottom of the pack, and place them on the top.C You then continue, “Having already placed the card thought of in the desired position, I may now, without suspicion, ask for the original number of the card, as I shall commence my counting with that number.” We will suppose you are told the card was originally number 10. You begin to count from the top of the pack, calling the first card 10, the next 11, and so on. When you come to 22, the number appointed, you say, “If I have kept my promise, this should be the card you thought of. To avoid the suspicion53 of confederacy, will you please say, before I turn it over, what your card was.” The card being named, you turn it up, and show that it is the right one.

To have someone think of a card and then make that card show up at the number that another person says.—Let the deck be shuffled and cut as freely as everyone wishes. Once they’re sure that the cards are mixed well, offer the deck to any spectator and ask them to look through the cards, think of any one, and remember its position in the deck, counting from the bottom card up. Then you say, “Ladies and gentlemen, please notice that I haven’t asked a single question, yet I already know the card; and if someone would kindly indicate the position in the deck where you want it to appear, I will immediately make it take that spot. I just ask that, among yourselves, you make the number where the card is to appear higher than its original position.” Let’s say the audience decides that the card should appear at number 22. Casually say, “It’s not even necessary for me to see the cards.” As you say this, hold the deck under the table, quickly count off twenty-two cards from the bottom of the deck, and place them on top.C You then continue, “Having already placed the card you thought of in the desired position, I can now, without raising any suspicion, ask for the original number of the card, since I’ll start counting from that number.” Let’s assume they tell you the card was originally number 10. You start counting from the top of the deck, calling the first card 10, the next 11, and so on. When you get to 22, the number designated, you say, “If I’ve kept my promise, this should be the card you thought of. To prevent any suspicion of trickery, can you please tell me what your card was before I turn it over?” Once the card is named, you flip it over and show that it’s the right one.

C When the number named is more than half the total number of the pack, i.e., more than 16 in a piquet pack, or more than 26 in a whist pack, it is quicker, and has precisely the same effect, to count off the difference between that and the total number from the top, and place them at the bottom. Thus, in a piquet pack, if the number called be 12, you would count off 12 from the bottom, and place them on the top; but if the number called were 24 you would achieve the same object by counting 8 from the top, and passing them to the bottom.

C When the number called is more than half the total number of the deck, i.e. more than 16 in a piquet deck, or more than 26 in a whist deck, it's faster and has exactly the same effect to count the difference between that number and the total from the top and move them to the bottom. So, in a piquet deck, if the number called is 12, you would count off 12 from the bottom and put them on the top; but if the number called is 24, you would achieve the same result by counting 8 from the top and putting them at the bottom.

In all tricks which depend on the naming of a card drawn or thought of, it adds greatly to the effect to have the card named before you turn it up.

In all tricks that rely on naming a card that’s drawn or thought of, it really boosts the effect to have the card named before you reveal it.

This trick, unlike most, will bear repetition; but it is well on a second performance to vary it a little. Thus you may on the second occasion say, when the card has been thought of, “I will choose for myself this time; your card will appear at number 30.” It is desirable to name a number very near the total number of the pack (which we are now supposing to be a piquet pack), as the difference between that and the total number being very small, it is easy to see at a glance the number of cards representing such difference, and pass them to the bottom of the pack. You take in this instance two cards only, that being the difference between 30 and 32, and pass them to the bottom, when the card will, as you have announced, be the thirtieth.

This trick, unlike most, can be repeated; however, it's good to change it up a bit the second time. So, when the card has been thought of, you might say, “I will choose this time; your card will be at number 30.” It's a good idea to pick a number that's very close to the total number of the deck (which we're assuming is a piquet deck), because the small difference makes it easy to see how many cards represent that difference and move them to the bottom of the deck. In this case, you only take two cards, since that’s the difference between 30 and 32, and place them at the bottom, where the card will, as you said, be the thirtieth.

If you are able to make the pass, you will, of course, avail yourself of it to transfer the requisite number of cards to the top or bottom of the pack.

If you can make the pass, you will, of course, use it to move the needed number of cards to the top or bottom of the deck.

The Cards Revealed by the Looking-Glass.—This is rather a joke than a feat of magic, but it will create some fun, and may often be kept up for some time without being discovered. Take up your position on one side of the room, facing a good-sized mirror or chimney-glass. Make your audience stand or sit facing you, when they will, of course, have their backs to the glass. Offer the cards to be shuffled and cut. Take the top card and hold it high up, with its back to you and its face to the audience. As it will be reflected in the mirror opposite you, you will have no difficulty in naming it, or any other card in like manner, till your audience either find you out, or have had enough of the trick.

The Cards Shown by the Mirror.—This is more of a joke than a magic trick, but it will be entertaining and can be sustained for quite a while without being noticed. Position yourself on one side of the room, facing a decent-sized mirror or mantelpiece mirror. Have your audience stand or sit facing you, which means they will have their backs to the mirror. Provide the cards for shuffling and cutting. Pick the top card and hold it up high, with its back facing you and its front facing the audience. Since it will be reflected in the mirror in front of you, you’ll easily be able to name it, or any other card in a similar way, until your audience figures you out or gets tired of the trick.

To Guess Four Cards thought of by Different Persons.—Offer the pack to be shuffled. Place it on the table, and taking off the four top cards with the right hand, offer them to any person, and ask him to notice one of them, shuffle them, and return them to you. When they are returned, place them, face downwards, in your left54 hand. Take the next four cards, and offer them to another person in like manner. Proceed in like manner with a third and fourth group of four. When all the sixteen cards are returned, deal them out in four heaps, face upwards. Ask each person in which heap his card now is. That of the first person will be the uppermost of his heap, that of the second person second in his heap, and so on. It will sometimes occur that two of the cards chosen are in the same heap, but the rule will still apply. Should there be three persons only to choose, you should give them three cards each; and deal in three heaps.

To Guess Four Cards Chosen by Different People.—Offer the deck to be shuffled. Place it on the table, and picking up the top four cards with your right hand, offer them to someone and ask them to remember one of the cards, shuffle them, and give them back to you. When they are returned, place them face down in your left54 hand. Take the next four cards and offer them to another person in the same way. Repeat this for a third and fourth group of four cards. Once all sixteen cards are returned, spread them out in four piles, face up. Ask each person which pile their card is now in. The card of the first person will be the top card of their pile, the second person's card will be second in their pile, and so on. Sometimes, two of the chosen cards may end up in the same pile, but the rule still holds. If there are only three people choosing, give each of them three cards and deal into three piles.

The Pairs Re-paired.—After performing the last trick, you may continue, “As you have not yet found me out, I will repeat the experiment, but in a slightly altered form. This time I will invite you to think of two cards each, and all present may join if they please.” After giving the pack to be shuffled, you deal out twenty cards, face upwards, but placing them in couples. Invite as many of the company as please to note any particular couple they think fit, and to remember those two cards. When they have done so, gather up the cards, picking them up here and there in any order you please, taking care, however, that none of the pairs are separated. You now deal them out again, face upwards, in rows of five, according to the following formula: Mutus dedit nomen Cocis, which, being interpreted, signifies, “Mutus gave a name to the Coci,” a people as yet undiscovered. On examining the sentence closely, you will observe that it consists of ten letters only, m, u, t, s, d, e, i, n, o, c, each twice repeated. This gives you the clue to the arrangement of the cards, which will be as follows:

The Pairs Repaired.—After completing the last trick, you may continue, “Since you haven't figured me out yet, I’ll do the experiment again, but with a twist. This time, I invite you to think of two cards each, and anyone else present can join if they want.” After letting the deck be shuffled, you deal out twenty cards, face up, placing them in pairs. Invite as many people as want to choose any specific pair they like and remember those two cards. Once they're done, gather the cards, picking them up in any random order you wish, but make sure none of the pairs are split up. Now, deal them out again, face up, in rows of five, using the following formula: Mutus dedit nomen Cocis, which means, “Mutus gave a name to the Coci,” a people not yet discovered. If you take a close look at the sentence, you’ll notice it has only ten letters: m, u, t, s, d, e, i, n, o, c, each appearing twice. This gives you the hint for how to arrange the cards, which will be as follows:

M U T U S
1 2 3 2 4
D E D I T
5 6 5 7 3
N O M E N
8 9 1 6 8
C O C I S
10 9 10 7 4

55 You must imagine the four words printed as above upon your table. You must deal your first card upon the imaginary M in MUTUS, and the second on the imaginary M in NOMEN, the two next cards on the two imaginary U’s, the two next on the two T’s, and so on. You have now only to ask each person in which row his two cards now appear, and you will at once know which they are. Thus, if a person says his two cards are now in the second and fourth rows, you will know that they must be the two cards representing the two I’s, that being the only letter common to those two rows. If a person indicates the first and fourth rows, you will know that his cards are those representing the two S’s, and so on.

55 You need to visualize the four words displayed like this on your table. Start by placing your first card on the imaginary M in MUTE, and the second card on the imaginary M in NAMES. Then, put the next two cards on the two imaginary U’s, followed by the next two cards on the two T’s, and continue this pattern. Now, just ask each person which rows their two cards are in, and you’ll instantly know which cards they have. So, if someone says their two cards are in the second and fourth rows, you'll realize they must be the cards representing the two I’s, as that’s the only letter that appears in both rows. If a person mentions the first and fourth rows, you’ll know their cards are the two S’s, and so on.

The Magic Triplets.—This trick is precisely similar in principle to the last, but twenty-four (instead of twenty) cards are used, and they are dealt in triplets, instead of pairs. After the spectators have made their selection, you take up the cards as directed for the last trick, taking care to keep the respective triplets together. You then deal them in rows of six, the formula in this case being:

The Magical Triplets.—This trick works on the same principle as the last one, but twenty-four (instead of twenty) cards are used, and they are dealt in triplets rather than pairs. After the spectators make their selections, you gather the cards as instructed for the last trick, making sure to keep the triplets together. You then deal them in rows of six, with the formula in this case being:

L I V I N I
L A N A T A
L E V E T E
N O V O T O

Another Mode of Discovering a Card Thought of.—Have the pack well shuffled. Then deal twenty-five cards, in five rows of five cards each, face upwards. Invite a person to think of a card, and to tell you in which row it is. Note in your own mind the first or left-hand card of that row. Now pick up the cards in vertical rows, i.e., beginning at the last card of the last row, placing that card face upwards on the last of the next row, those two on the last of the next row, and so on. When you have picked up all the cards in this manner, deal them out again in the same way as at first. You will observe that those cards which at first formed the first cards of each row, now themselves form the first row. Ask the person in which row his card now is. When he has told you, look to the top row for the first card of the original row, when the card thought of will be found in a direct line below it. As you have just been told in which56 lateral row it is, you will not have the least difficulty in discovering it, and by a slight effort of memory you may even allow several persons each to think of a card, and name it. A comparison of the subjoined tables, showing the original and subsequent order of the cards, will explain the principle of the trick.

Another Method to Figure Out a Card Someone Has in Mind.—Have the deck well shuffled. Then deal twenty-five cards in five rows of five cards each, face up. Ask someone to think of a card and to tell you which row it’s in. Mentally note the first or left-most card in that row. Now, pick up the cards in vertical columns, meaning you start from the last card of the last row, placing that card face up on the last card of the next row, and so on. Once you’ve picked up all the cards this way, deal them out again just like you did at first. You’ll notice that the cards that were originally the first in each row now make up the first row. Ask the person which row their card is in now. After they tell you, look at the top row for the first card of the original row, and you’ll find the card they thought of directly below it. Since you just learned which lateral row it’s in, you shouldn’t have any trouble finding it, and with a little memory effort, you can let several people each think of a card and name it. A comparison of the accompanying tables, showing the original and new order of the cards, will clarify the principle behind the trick.

First Order.

First Order.

1 2 3 4 5
6 7 8 9 10
11 12 13 14 15
16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25

Second Order.

Second Order.

1 6 11 16 21
2 7 12 17 22
3 8 13 18 23
4 9 14 19 24
5 10 15 20 25

Thus we will suppose you are told that the card thought of is originally in the third line. Remember the first or key-card of that line, designated in the table as 11. If the card is in the fourth line after the second deal, you look to the top line for the key-card, and on finding it you have only to observe which card in the fourth row is immediately beneath it, to be sure that that card (in this instance designated by the number 14) is the card thought of.

Thus, let's say you're told that the card you're thinking of is originally in the third line. Remember the first or key card of that line, marked in the table as 11. If the card ends up in the fourth line after the second deal, you check the top line for the key card, and once you find it, you only need to see which card in the fourth row is directly beneath it to confirm that card (in this case marked by the number 14) is the one you were thinking of.

You may perform the trick with either sixteen, twenty-five, thirty-six, or forty-nine cards, either of those being a square number, and thus making the number of cards in a row equal to the number of rows, which is essential to the success of the trick.

You can do the trick with either sixteen, twenty-five, thirty-six, or forty-nine cards, since all of these are square numbers. This makes the number of cards in a row equal to the number of rows, which is crucial for the trick to work.

To Guess, by the aid of a Passage of Poetry or Prose, such one of Sixteen Cards as, in the Performer’s Absence, has been Touched or Selected by the Company.—This feat is performed by confederacy, the assistance of the confederate being open and avowed, but the mode in which the clue is given constituting57 the mystery. You allow the pack to be shuffled, and then deal sixteen cards, the first that come to hand, either face upwards or face downwards, in four rows on the table. The sole preparation on the part of yourself and your confederate is to commit to memory the following simple formula—animal, vegetable, mineral, verb, signifying respectively one, two, three and four. You retire from the room while the card is chosen, your confederate remaining. Upon your return your confederate selects and hands for your perusal a passage in any book which the audience may select, only taking care that the first word in such passage which comes within either of the four categories above mentioned, shall be such as to represent the number of the row in which the card is, and that the second word which comes within either of those categories shall represent the number at which the card stands in that row. We will suppose, for instance, that the passage handed to the performer is that portion of Hamlet’s soliloquy commencing, “Oh, that this too too solid flesh would melt.” Here the first word which comes within either of the four categories is “flesh,” which, being clearly animal (1), indicates that the chosen card is in the first row. The second word coming within either of the categories is “melt,” which, being a verb (4), indicates that the chosen card is the fourth of its row. Had the passage been “To be, or not to be, that is the question,” the two verbs would have indicated that the card was the fourth of the fourth row. “How doth the little busy bee,” etc., would have indicated the first of the fourth row, and so on. With a little tact and ingenuity on the part of the operators, this may be made an admirable trick, and, unlike most others, will bear being repeated, the mystery becoming deeper as passages of varying character and different length are employed.

To figure out, using a passage from poetry or prose, which one of the sixteen cards has been touched or selected by the audience while the performer is not present.—This trick is done with cooperation, where the help from the accomplice is open and acknowledged, but the way in which the hint is given creates the mystery. You let the deck be shuffled and then deal sixteen cards, the first ones you grab, either facing up or down, in four rows on the table. The only preparation for you and your accomplice is to memorize this simple formula—animal, vegetable, mineral, verb, which represent one, two, three, and four, respectively. You step out of the room while the card is chosen, and your accomplice stays behind. When you come back, your accomplice picks and shows you a passage from any book the audience chooses, making sure that the first word in that passage that fits into any of the four categories above represents the number of the row where the card is located, and the second word that fits into those categories represents the position of the card in that row. For example, let’s say the passage given to the performer is part of Hamlet’s soliloquy that starts with, “Oh, that this too too solid flesh would melt.” Here, the first word that fits into any of the four categories is “flesh,” clearly animal (1), indicating that the chosen card is in the first row. The second word that fits into the categories is “melt,” which, being a verb (4), indicates that the chosen card is the fourth in its row. If the passage had been “To be, or not to be, that is the question,” the two verbs would show that the card is the fourth of the fourth row. “How doth the little busy bee,” etc., would indicate the first card of the fourth row, and so on. With a little skill and creativity from the performers, this can become a fantastic trick, and unlike most others, it can be repeated, with the mystery deepening as different passages of various styles and lengths are used.

To Detect, without Confederacy, which of Four Cards has been Turned Round in your Absence.—It will be found upon examining a pack of cards, that the white margin round the court cards almost invariably differs in width at the opposite ends. The difference is frequently very trifling, but is still sufficiently noticeable when pointed out, and may be made available for a trick which, though absurdly simple, has puzzled many. You place four court cards of the same rank, say four queens, in a row, face upwards,58 taking care that the wider margins of the cards are all one way. You then leave the room, and invite the company to turn round lengthways during your absence any one or more of the four cards. On your return you can readily distinguish which card has been so turned, as the wider margin of such card will now be where the narrower margin was originally, and vice versâ.

To figure out, without help, which of the four cards has been flipped over while you weren't looking.—If you examine a deck of cards, you'll notice that the white margin around the court cards usually varies in width at the opposite ends. The difference is often quite small, but it's noticeable enough once it's pointed out, and it can be used for a trick that, while incredibly simple, has confused many. You line up four court cards of the same rank, say four queens, face up,58 ensuring that the wider margins of the cards are all facing the same direction. Then, you leave the room and ask the group to turn any one or more of the four cards lengthwise while you're gone. When you return, you'll easily see which card has been turned because the wider margin of that card will now be where the narrower margin was originally, and vice versa.

There is so little chance of the trick being discovered, that you may, contrary to the general rule, repeat it if desired. Should you do so, it is better not to replace the cards already turned, as this might give a clue to the secret, but carefully note in your own mind their present position, by remembering which you can discover any card turned just as easily as at first.

There’s a very low chance of the trick being found out, so you can, against the usual advice, do it again if you want. If you do, it’s better not to put the cards back in their original spots, as that might hint at the secret. Instead, keep track of their current positions in your mind, and by remembering, you can find any card that’s been turned just as easily as before.

To Arrange Twelve Cards in Rows, in such a manner that they will Count Four in every Direction.—This is rather a puzzle than a conjuring trick, but may sometimes serve as an interlude to occupy the minds of your audience while you are preparing for some other feat. The secret is to place nine of the twelve cards in three rows, so as to form a square; then place the remaining three cards as follows: the first on the first card of the first row, the second on the second card of the second row, and the last on the third card of the last row.

To arrange twelve cards in rows so that they count four in every direction.—This is more of a puzzle than a magic trick, but it can sometimes serve as a break to engage your audience while you prepare for another performance. The trick is to position nine of the twelve cards in three rows to create a square; then place the other three cards like this: the first on the first card of the first row, the second on the second card of the second row, and the last on the third card of the last row.

Fig. 32.

To Place the Aces and Court Cards in Four Rows, in such a manner that neither Horizontally nor Perpendicularly shall there be in either Row two Cards alike either in Suit or Value.—This also is a puzzle, and a very good one. The key to it is to begin by placing four cards of like value (say four kings) in a diagonal line from corner to corner of the intended square, then four other cards of like value (say the four aces) to form the opposite diagonal. It must be borne in mind, that of whatever suit the two centre kings are, the two aces must be of the opposite suits. Thus, if the two centre kings are those of diamonds and hearts, the two centre aces must be those of clubs and spades; and in adding the two end aces, you must be careful not to place at either end of the line an ace of the same suit as the king at the corresponding end of the opposite diagonal. Having got so far, you will59 find it a very easy matter to fill in the remaining cards in accordance with the conditions of the puzzle. The sixteen cards when complete will be as in Fig. 32, subject, of course, to variation according to the particular cards with which you commence your task.

Arrange the Aces and Court Cards into four rows, making sure that no two cards of the same suit or value are in the same row, either horizontally or vertically.—This is also a puzzle, and quite a good one. The trick is to start by placing four cards of the same value (like four kings) in a diagonal line from one corner of the intended square to the opposite corner, then place four other cards of the same value (like the four aces) to create the opposite diagonal. Keep in mind that whatever suit the two center kings are, the two aces must be of the opposite suits. So, if the two center kings are diamonds and hearts, the two center aces should be clubs and spades; when adding the two end aces, be careful not to place an ace of the same suit as the king at the corresponding end of the opposite diagonal. Once you've done that, you’ll find it very easy to fill in the remaining cards according to the puzzle's rules. The sixteen cards, when completed, will look like Fig. 32, of course, subject to variation based on the specific cards you start with.

The Congress of Court Cards.—Take the kings, queens, and knaves from the pack, and place them face upwards on the table in three rows of four each, avoiding as much as possible the appearance of arrangement, but really taking care to place them in the following order: In the first row you have only to remember not to have two of the same suit. Begin the second row with a card of the same suit with which you ended the first, let the second card be of the same suit as the first of the first row, the third of the same suit as the second of the first row, and so on. The third row will begin with the suit with which the second left off, the second card will be of the same suit as the first of the second row, and so on. Now pick up the cards in vertical rows, beginning with the last card of the bottom row. The cards may now be cut (not shuffled) any number of times, but, if dealt in four heaps, the king, queen, and knave of each suit will come together.

The Court Card Congress.—Take the kings, queens, and jacks from the deck and lay them face up on the table in three rows of four cards each, trying to avoid making it look too organized, but actually ensure they are placed in the following order: In the first row, just remember not to have two cards of the same suit. Start the second row with a card of the same suit as the last card of the first row, make the second card match the suit of the first card in the first row, the third card should match the suit of the second card in the first row, and keep going like that. The third row should start with the suit that the second row ended with, the second card will match the suit of the first card in the second row, and so on. Now, pick up the cards in vertical columns, starting with the last card in the bottom row. The cards can be cut (not shuffled) any number of times, but if you deal them into four piles, the king, queen, and jack of each suit will come together.


60

60

CHAPTER IV.
Tricks that use Sleight-of-Hand or Specially Prepared Cards.

We have already explained the nature and use of the “forcing” pack of cards. It may be well, before we go further, to give a short account of one or two other species of prepared cards.

We have already discussed what "forcing" decks of cards are and how they work. Before we continue, it might be helpful to briefly describe a couple of other types of specially designed cards.

The Long Card.—This is the technical name for a card longer or wider, by about the thickness of a sixpence, than the rest of the pack. This card will naturally project to that extent beyond the general length or width of the other cards, and the performer is thereby enabled to cut the pack at that particular card whenever he chooses to do so. With the aid of such a card, and a tolerable proficiency in “forcing” and “making the pass,” many excellent tricks can be performed. Packs with a long card can be obtained at any of the conjuring depôts. The best plan, however, is to purchase two ordinary packs, precisely alike, and to have the edges of one of them shaved down by a bookbinder to the requisite extent, when you can insert any card of the other pack at pleasure to form your long card, and thus avoid the suspicion which would naturally arise from the performance of several tricks with the same card. A still greater improvement upon the ordinary long-card pack is the biseauté or tapering pack, in which, though only one pack is used, any card may in turn become the long card. A biseauté pack consists of cards all of which are a shade wider (say the thickness of a shilling) at one end than the other. (See Fig. 33, in which, however, the actual difference of width is exaggerated, in order to make the shape of the card clear to the eye.)

The Long Card.—This is the technical name for a card that is longer or wider, by about the thickness of a sixpence, than the rest of the deck. This card will naturally stick out to that extent beyond the general length or width of the other cards, allowing the performer to cut the deck at that specific card whenever they want. With the help of such a card and a decent skill in “forcing” and “making the pass,” many impressive tricks can be performed. Packs with a long card can be found at any magic supply store. However, the best approach is to buy two regular packs that are exactly the same and have the edges of one of them trimmed down by a bookbinder to the necessary size. This way, you can insert any card from the other pack to create your long card and avoid any suspicion that might arise from using the same card for multiple tricks. An even better option than the standard long-card pack is the biseauté or tapering pack, where, even though only one pack is used, any card can become the long card. A biseauté pack consists of cards that are slightly wider (about the thickness of a shilling) at one end than at the other. (See Fig. 33, in which, however, the actual difference in width is exaggerated to make the shape of the card clear to the eye.)

Fig. 33. Fig. 34.
Fig. 35.

When two cards shaped as above are placed one upon another, but in opposite directions, the effect is as in Fig. 34. If the whole pack is at the outset placed with all the cards alike (i.e., their ends tapering in61 the same direction), by reversing any card and returning it to the pack, its wide end is made to correspond with the narrow ends of the remaining cards, thereby making it for the time being a “long” card. By offering the pack for a person to draw a card, and turning the pack round before the card is replaced, the position of that card will thus be reversed, and you will be able to find it again in an instant, however thoroughly the cards may be shuffled. By pre-arranging the pack beforehand, with the narrow ends of all the red cards in one direction, and those of the black cards in the other direction, you may, by grasping the pack between the finger and thumb at each end (see Fig. 35), and, drawing the hands apart, separate the black cards from the red at a single stroke, or, by preparing the pack accordingly, you may divide the court cards from the plain cards in like manner. Many other recreations may be performed with a pack of this kind, which will be noticed in due course. The long card and the biseauté pack have each their special advantages and disadvantages. The long card is the more reliable, as it can always be distinguished with certainty from the rest of the pack; but it is very generally known, and after having made use of it for one trick, it is clear that you cannot immediately venture upon another with the same card. It is further comparatively useless unless you are proficient in “forcing.” The biseauté pack may be used without any knowledge of “forcing,” and has the advantage that any card may in turn become the key card, but it is treacherous.62 The necessary turning of the pack is likely to attract observation, and any little mistake, such as allowing the card to be replaced in its original direction, or a few of the cards getting turned round in shuffling, will cause a breakdown. Notwithstanding these disadvantages, both the long card and the biseauté pack will be found very useful to the amateur; but it should be borne in mind that both these appliances are in reality only makeshifts or substitutes for sleight-of-hand. Professionals of the highest class discard them altogether, and rely wholly on the more subtle magic of their own fingers.

When you stack two cards like the ones shown above, facing opposite directions, the result is similar to Fig. 34. If you start with the entire deck arranged with all cards the same way (i.e., their ends pointing in the same direction), by reversing one card and putting it back into the deck, its wide end will line up with the narrow ends of the other cards, effectively making it a “long” card for the moment. When you offer the deck for someone to draw a card and then turn the deck around before putting the card back, that card's position will be flipped, making it easy for you to find it again, no matter how much the cards are mixed up. If you prepare the deck ahead of time, with the narrow ends of all the red cards facing one way and the black cards pointing the other way, you can grab the deck at both ends with your fingers (see Fig. 35), and by pulling your hands apart, you can separate the black cards from the red in one smooth motion. Similarly, by setting up the deck that way, you can also separate the court cards from the numbered cards. There are many other tricks you can perform with this type of deck, which will be discussed later. The long card and the biseauté pack each have their own pros and cons. The long card is more reliable because you can always tell it apart from the rest of the deck, but it's widely known, and once you've used it for one trick, you can't immediately use it again. Additionally, it's mostly useless unless you’re skilled at “forcing.” The biseauté pack can be used without needing to know “forcing,” and any card can serve as the key card, but it's more deceptive. The necessary adjustment of the deck is likely to draw attention, and any minor mistake, like returning the card facing the original way or having a few cards turn around while shuffling, can ruin the trick. Despite these drawbacks, both the long card and the biseauté pack can be very helpful for beginners, but keep in mind that these tools are really just substitutes for actual sleight-of-hand. Top professionals avoid using them altogether and rely solely on the more sophisticated magic of their own hands.

We subjoin a few of the best of the feats which specially depend upon the use of a long card or the biseauté pack.

We include some of the best tricks that specifically rely on the use of a long card or the biseauté pack.

A Card having been Chosen and Returned, and the Pack shuffled, to Produce the Chosen Card instantly in various ways.—Request some person to draw a card, spreading them before him for that purpose. If you use a long-card pack you must force the long card; if you are using a biseauté pack any card may be drawn, the pack being reversed before the card is replaced. The card being returned, the pack may be shuffled to any extent, but you will always be able to cut by feel at the card chosen.

A card has been selected and placed back in the deck, which is then shuffled to quickly show the chosen card in different ways.—Ask someone to draw a card, spreading them out in front of them for that purpose. If you're using a long card deck __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__,, you need to force the long card; if you have a biseauté deck, any card can be drawn as long as the deck is reversed before the card is put back. Once the card is returned, the deck can be shuffled as much as you like, but you'll always be able to cut by feel at the chosen card.

You may vary the trick by taking the cards upright between the second finger and thumb of the right hand, and requesting some one to say, “One, two, three!” at the word “three” drop all the cards save the card chosen, which its projecting edge will enable you to retain when you relax the pressure upon the other cards.

You can switch up the trick by holding the cards upright between your second finger and thumb of your right hand, and asking someone to say, “One, two, three!” When they say “three,” drop all the cards except the chosen card, which you’ll be able to keep hold of by relaxing the pressure on the other cards because of its projecting edge.

Another mode of finishing the trick is to request any one present to put the pack (previously well shuffled) in his pocket, when you proceed, with his permission, to pick his pocket of the chosen card. This is an effective trick, and, if you are proficient in sleight-of-hand, may be also performed with an unprepared pack of cards. In the latter case, when the chosen card is returned to the pack, you make the pass to bring it to the top, palm it, and immediately offer the cards to be shuffled. (See Fig. 15.) The pack being returned, you replace the chosen card on the top, and when the pack is placed in the pocket you have only to draw out the top card. The feat of cutting at the chosen card may also by similar means be performed with an ordinary pack. For this purpose you must follow the directions63 last above given up to the time when, the pack having been shuffled, you replace the palmed card on the top. Then transfer the pack to the left hand, and apparently cut with the right. We say apparently, for though to the eye of the spectator you merely cut the cards, you really make the pass by sliding the lower half of the pack to the left, the fingers of the left hand at the same moment opening a little to lift the upper packet, and so give room for the upward passage of the lower packet. The cards remaining after the pass in the left hand, which the spectators take to be the bottom half of the pack, are in reality the original upper half; and on the uppermost of such cards being turned up, it is found to be the one which was chosen.

Another way to finish the trick is to ask someone in the audience to put the shuffled deck in their pocket. With their permission, you then "pick their pocket" to retrieve the chosen card. This is an effective trick, and if you're skilled in sleight-of-hand, you can perform it with an unprepared deck as well. In that case, after the chosen card is returned to the deck, you make a move to bring it to the top, palm it, and then immediately offer the cards for shuffling. (See Fig. 15.) Once the deck is returned, you place the chosen card back on top, and when the deck is put in the pocket, all you need to do is pull out the top card. You can also perform the feat of cutting to the chosen card using similar methods with a regular deck. For this, you should follow the previous instructions until the point where, after shuffling, you place the palmed card on top. Then shift the deck to your left hand and seemingly cut it with your right. We say seemingly because while it looks like you're just cutting the cards, you're actually making the move by sliding the bottom half of the deck to the left, while your left fingers slightly open to lift the upper packet, allowing the lower packet to pass upward. The cards remaining in your left hand, which the spectators think are the bottom half of the deck, are actually the original top half; and when the top card from those is revealed, it turns out to be the chosen one.

Another good mode of finishing the trick is to fling the pack in the air, and catch the chosen card. For this purpose, after forcing the long card, and after giving the pack to be shuffled, you cut the pack at the long card as before, but without showing it, and place the original lower half of the pack on the top. The chosen card will now be at the bottom. Take the pack face downwards upon the right hand, and quickly transfer it to the left, at the same time palming (with the right hand) the bottom card. Spread the cards a little, and fling them into the air, clutching at them with the right hand as they descend, and at the same moment bring the chosen card to the tips of the fingers. The effect to the spectators will be as if you actually caught it among the falling cards.

Another effective way to finish the trick is to throw the deck into the air and catch the chosen card. To do this, after making the long card your selection and letting the deck be shuffled, cut the deck at the long card like before, but without showing it, and place the original lower half of the deck on top. The chosen card will now be at the bottom. Take the deck face down in your right hand, then quickly transfer it to your left while palming the bottom card with your right hand. Spread the cards slightly, then throw them into the air, reaching for them with your right hand as they fall, and at the same time bring the chosen card to the tips of your fingers. The effect on the spectators will be that it seems like you actually caught it among the falling cards.

This feat also may be performed without the aid of a long card, and without the necessity of forcing a card. In this case, as in the pocket-picking trick, you make the pass as soon as the card is returned to the pack, in order to bring it to the top, and palm it; then offer the pack to be shuffled. When the cards are handed back, place the chosen card for a moment on the top of the pack, and endeavour to call attention—indirectly, if possible—to the fact that you have no card concealed in your hand. Then again palming the card, you may either yourself fling up the cards or request some other person to do so, and terminate the trick as before.

This trick can also be done without a long card and without needing to force a card. Just like in the pocket-picking trick, you make the pass as soon as the card is returned to the deck to bring it to the top and palm it; then offer the deck to be shuffled. When you get the cards back, place the chosen card briefly on top of the deck and try to draw attention—indirectly, if you can—to the fact that you have no card hidden in your hand. After that, while palming the card again, you can either throw the cards up yourself or ask someone else to do it, finishing the trick as before.

A still more effective form of this trick, in which the chosen card is caught upon the point of a sword, will be found among the card tricks performed by the aid of special apparatus.

A more impressive version of this trick, where the selected card is caught on the tip of a sword, can be found among the card tricks using specialized equipment.

The following is a good long-card trick, but demands considerable64 proficiency in sleight-of-hand. You “force” the long card, allowing it to be returned to any part of the pack, and the whole to be well shuffled. You then say, “You must be by this time pretty certain that, even if I knew your card in the first instance, I must have quite lost sight of it now. If you do not feel quite certain, please shuffle the cards once more.” Every one being fully satisfied that the card is completely lost in the pack, you continue, “Let me assure you that I do not know, any more than yourselves, whereabouts in the pack your card is at this moment. You can all see that I have no duplicate card concealed in my hands. I will now take the top card, whatever it may be, or, if you prefer it, any one may draw a card from any part of the pack, and I will at once change it to the card originally chosen.” The audience will probably prefer to draw a card, which, when they have done, you continue, “I presume the card you have just drawn is not the one originally chosen. Will the gentleman who drew the first card look at it and see if it is his card?” The reply is pretty certain to be in the negative. During the discussion you have taken the opportunity to slip the little finger of the left hand immediately above the long card (which, it will be remembered, was that first drawn), and to make the pass, thereby bringing it to the top, and enabling you to palm it. You now ask the person holding the second card to place it on the top of the pack, which you immediately transfer to the right hand, thus bringing the palmed card upon it. You then say, “To show you that this trick is not performed by sleight-of-hand, or by any manipulation of the cards, I will not even touch them, but will place them here on the table in sight of all. Will the gentleman who drew the first card please to say what his card was?” The card being named, you slowly and deliberately turn over the top card, which will be found to be transformed into that first chosen. The other card is now the next card on the top of the pack, and, as somebody may suspect this, and by examining the pack gain a partial clue to the trick, it will be well to take an early opportunity of removing this card, either by shuffling, or by making the pass to bring it to the centre of the pack.

The following is a great long card trick, but it requires a lot of skill in sleight-of-hand.64 You “force” the long card, letting it go back to any part of the deck, and the whole deck is shuffled well. Then you say, “By now, you must be pretty sure that, even if I knew your card at the start, I must have completely lost track of it by now. If you're not completely sure, please shuffle the cards again.” Once everyone is confident that the card is totally lost in the deck, you continue, “Let me assure you that I don’t know, any more than you do, where your card is in the deck right now. You can all see that I have no duplicate card hidden in my hands. I’ll now take the top card, whatever it may be, or, if you prefer, anyone can draw a card from any part of the deck, and I’ll immediately change it to the card you originally chose.” The audience will likely prefer to draw a card, and once they do, you continue, “I assume the card you just drew is not the one you originally picked. Will the gentleman who drew the first card check it and see if it’s his card?” The answer is probably going to be no. While this discussion is going on, you take the chance to slip the little finger of your left hand just above the long card (which was the first one drawn), and make the pass, bringing it to the top so you can palm it. You then ask the person holding the second card to place it on top of the deck, which you immediately transfer to your right hand, bringing the palmed card on top of it. You then say, “To show you that this trick isn’t done with sleight-of-hand or any manipulation of the cards, I won’t even touch them, but will place them here on the table where everyone can see. Will the gentleman who drew the first card please say what his card was?” Once the card is named, you slowly and deliberately turn over the top card, which will be revealed as the first chosen card. The other card is now the next card on top of the deck, and since someone might suspect this and examine the deck to find a clue to the trick, it’s best to remove this card early, either by shuffling or by making the pass to bring it to the center of the deck.

If you make use of a biseauté pack, there is, of course, no necessity for forcing the card in the first instance.

If you use a biseauté pack, there's no need to force the card at first.

You may also reveal a chosen card with very good effect in the65 following manner: A card having been freely drawn, open the pack in such manner that it may be placed, when returned, immediately under the long card, which, by the way, should in this instance really be a wide card, though the term “long card” applies, as already mentioned, to both kinds of card. The pack may be moderately shuffled, with very little risk of the two cards being separated, the greater width of the long card tending to shelter the card beneath it, and making it very unlikely that that card will be displaced. If after the shuffle the long card does not happen to be tolerably high up in the pack, you should cut the cards in such manner as to make it so. Holding the cards in a horizontal position, face downwards, above the table, the thumb being on one side and the fingers on the other side of the pack, you say, “Ladies and gentlemen, I am now about to drop the cards, a few at a time, in a number of little heaps upon the table, stopping when you tell me to do so. It will be equally open to you to stop me when I have made one or two heaps only, or not until I have made seven or eight, but, whenever it is, the card at the top of the heap last made will be the identical card which was just now drawn, and which has since, as you have seen, been thoroughly shuffled in the pack.” You now drop the cards, four or five at a time, on various parts of the table. When the word “stop” is pronounced you let go all the remaining cards below the long card, which, from its greater width, a very slight pressure suffices to retain. The card chosen having been next below the long card, is now at the top of the last heap. You ask the person who drew to name his card, and, touching the back of the top card with your wand, turn it over to show that it is the right one.

You can also reveal a chosen card very effectively in the following way: After a card has been freely drawn, open the deck so that when it's returned, it goes right underneath the long card, which, by the way, should actually be a wide card, although the term “long card” applies, as mentioned earlier, to both types of cards. The deck can be moderately shuffled with minimal risk of the two cards getting separated, as the greater width of the long card tends to shield the card beneath it, making it unlikely that the card will be moved. If the long card isn't positioned reasonably high in the deck after the shuffle, you should cut the cards to move it up. Holding the cards horizontally, face down above the table, with your thumb on one side and your fingers on the other, you say, “Ladies and gentlemen, I’m about to drop the cards, a few at a time, into several little piles on the table, stopping whenever you tell me to. You can stop me after I've made just one or two piles, or wait until I’ve made seven or eight, but whenever it is, the card on top of the last pile I make will be the exact card that was just drawn, and which, as you’ve seen, has been thoroughly shuffled into the deck.” You then drop the cards, four or five at a time, onto various parts of the table. When someone says “stop,” you release all remaining cards below the long card, which, because of its greater width, only requires slight pressure to hold in place. The chosen card, being just below the long card, is now on top of the last pile. You ask the person who drew the card to name it, and while touching the back of the top card with your wand, you turn it over to show that it’s the correct one.

If you are tolerably expert in sleight-of-hand you may repeat the trick in a yet more striking manner. Proceed as before up to the moment when the word “stop” is pronounced. Having let fall as before all the cards below the long card, lay down the remainder of the pack, and take in the left hand the heap which you last dealt. Cover it with the right hand for an instant, and, sliding away the hand gently to the right, palm the top card, and immediately take by one corner the next card, holding it face downwards until the drawer has named his card, which was, we will suppose, the queen of hearts. As soon as the card is named, you turn towards the audience the face66 of the card you hold, saying, “Here is the card, as before.” Do not look at it yourself, but at once replace it on the pack, and, covering the pack with the right hand, leave the palmed card upon it. You are by this time made aware by a murmur, if not by a more decided manifestation on the part of the audience, that something is wrong. You ask what is the matter, and are told that, so far from showing the queen of hearts, the card you produced was a totally different one, say, the seven of spades. You pretend to look embarrassed, and ask if they are quite sure. “It is very strange,” you remark, “I never failed in this trick before. Will you allow me to try again?” Then, appearing to recollect yourself, “Oh, of course!” you exclaim, “I forgot to touch the card with the magic wand.” You do so. “Will some one be kind enough to look at the card now?” The card is examined, and proves to be, as it ought to have been originally, the queen of hearts.

If you’re pretty skilled at sleight-of-hand, you can perform the trick in an even more impressive way. Follow the same steps up until the moment the word “stop” is said. After dropping all the cards below the long card, set down the remaining stack, and take the pile you just dealt in your left hand. Cover it with your right hand for a moment, and as you gently slide your hand to the right, hide the top card in your palm. Then, quickly grab the next card by one corner, keeping it face down until the participant names their card, which we’ll say is the queen of hearts. Once the card is named, show the audience the face of the card you’re holding and say, “Here is the card, as before.” Don’t look at the card yourself; instead, immediately place it back on the pack. Cover the pack with your right hand, leaving the palmed card on top. By now, you’ll notice from the audience’s murmurs, or perhaps something more obvious, that something is off. You ask what’s wrong, and they inform you that instead of showing the queen of hearts, the card you revealed was a completely different one, let’s say the seven of spades. You act embarrassed and ask if they are absolutely sure. “That’s very strange,” you say, “I’ve never messed up this trick before. Would you let me try again?” Then, as if remembering something, you say, “Oh, right! I forgot to touch the card with the magic wand.” You do this. “Can someone please check the card now?” The card is examined and, as it should have been from the beginning, it turns out to be the queen of hearts.

To teach the Company a Trick which they Learn without Difficulty; then to allow them to Succeed or to cause them to Fail at your Pleasure.—This surprising trick is performed with the piquet pack of thirty-two cards, from which you must beforehand take away, and secretly pocket, one card of each suit, the spectators, however, believing that you use the whole thirty-two cards.

Teach the Company an easily learnable trick, then allow them to succeed or fail based on your judgment.—This amazing trick is done with a piquet pack of thirty-two cards. Before starting, you need to take out and secretly hide one card from each suit, while the spectators think you're using all thirty-two cards.

You announce to the company that you will teach them a trick. You deal the cards face upwards in rows of four, according to the rules set forth in the trick already described under the title of “The Congress of Court Cards,” i.e., you place a card of each suit in the top row; you commence each row with a card of the suit with which the row above ended; you make the second of each row the same suit as the first of the row above, and the third the same suit as the second of the row above, and so on. Thus, if your top row be club, diamond, heart, spade, your second will be spade, club, diamond, heart; your third, heart, spade, club, diamond; your fourth, diamond, heart, spade, club; your fifth, club, diamond, heart, spade; your sixth, spade, club, diamond, heart; and your seventh, heart, spade, club, diamond. You now gather up the cards as directed in the trick already mentioned, i.e., in vertical rows, from the bottom upwards, commencing at the right-hand bottom corner. The pack thus67 arranged may be cut any number of times, but, if dealt in four heaps, all the cards of each suit will be found to be together.

You tell the group that you'll show them a trick. You deal the cards face up in rows of four, following the rules outlined in the trick titled “The Congress of Court Cards,” meaning you place one card of each suit in the top row; you start each row with the same suit that ended the row above it; the second card of each row matches the first card of the row above, and the third card matches the second card of the row above, and so on. So, if your top row is club, diamond, heart, spade, your second row will be spade, club, diamond, heart; your third row will be heart, spade, club, diamond; your fourth row will be diamond, heart, spade, club; your fifth row will be club, diamond, heart, spade; your sixth row will be spade, club, diamond, heart; and your seventh row will be heart, spade, club, diamond. Now, collect the cards as instructed in the previously mentioned trick, meaning you gather them in vertical columns from the bottom up, starting from the bottom right corner. The deck arranged this way can be cut any number of times, but if dealt into four piles, all the cards of each suit will be found together.

So far, the trick is ingenious rather than astonishing, although, the arrangement of the cards having reference only to the suits, and not to individual cards, the cards do not at first sight appear to be specially arranged; and if you are rapid and apparently careless in placing them, the spectators will in all probability believe that they are placed hap-hazard. If you can induce this belief, you will greatly heighten their surprise at finding the different suits regularly sorted after the deal. But the trick is not yet finished. You again place the cards as before, remarking that the trick is simplicity itself when once the principle is known, and on this occasion you draw special attention to the necessary arrangement of the cards. Having completed the trick for the second time, you invite some of the audience to try their hands, which they do, and of course succeed, there being really no difficulty in the matter. When one or two have tried and succeeded, they will probably disparage the trick, as being absurdly easy. “Pardon me,” you say, “you have succeeded so far, because it was my will and pleasure that you should do so. You seem incredulous, but I am perfectly serious. To prove that I am so, I give you warning that the next person who attempts the trick will fail. Come, who accepts the challenge?” Some one is sure to respond, and in all probability to offer you a bet that he will succeed. “Sir,” you reply, “I never bet on certainties, or your money would be already lost. I have said that you shall fail, and you cannot, therefore, possibly succeed.” You have, meanwhile, secretly palmed the four cards which you pocketed before beginning the trick, and have watched your opportunity to replace them on the table with the rest of the pack.

So far, the trick is clever rather than mind-blowing. Even though the cards are arranged only by suits and not by individual cards, they don’t really look specially organized at first glance. If you’re quick and seem casual in placing them, the audience will likely think they’re set randomly. If you can create this impression, it will really heighten their surprise when they see the suits sorted after the deal. But the trick isn’t over yet. You lay the cards out again, pointing out that the trick is super simple once you know the secret, and this time you emphasize the required arrangement of the cards. Once you’ve completed the trick a second time, you invite some audience members to give it a try, which they do, and of course, they succeed because it really isn't hard. When a couple of them try and succeed, they might downplay the trick as being ridiculously easy. “Excuse me,” you say, “you’ve done well so far because I intended for you to succeed. You seem skeptical, but I'm completely serious. To prove my point, let me warn you that the next person who tries the trick will fail. So, who wants to take on the challenge?” Someone is sure to respond and probably offer you a bet that they’ll succeed. “Sir,” you reply, “I never bet on certainties, or your money would already be lost. I’ve stated that you will fail, so there’s no way you can succeed.” Meanwhile, you’ve secretly palmed the four cards you pocketed before starting the trick, and you’re waiting for the right moment to put them back on the table with the rest of the deck.

Your opponent may now try as much as he pleases, but he cannot possibly succeed, the fact being that the process above described produces the desired effect with twenty-eight cards, but will not do so with thirty-two. The first thought of your audience is sure to be that you have abstracted some of the cards in order to make the trick fail, but on counting they find the number correct. Not one in a hundred will suspect that the reverse is the case, and that when you performed the trick the pack was incomplete.

Your opponent can try as hard as he wants, but he won't be able to succeed. The method described above works with twenty-eight cards but not with thirty-two. The audience will initially think you took out some cards to make the trick fail, but when they count, they’ll see the number is correct. Not one in a hundred will realize that the opposite is true and that the deck was incomplete when you performed the trick.

68 By the time three or four of the company have tried and failed, you will probably have found an opportunity of again pocketing a card of each suit; and you may then announce that, having sufficiently proved your power, you will now graciously condescend to remove the prohibition, and allow the next person who tries to succeed. This, of course, he will do; and the trick may very well end here, with the satisfaction on your part that you have kept your secret, and that, even when removed from the sphere of your adverse influence, your pupils will fail in performing the trick, making the attempt, as they naturally will, with the full piquet pack. But it is just possible that a contretemps may arise, for which it will be well to be prepared. Some one of the audience, more acute than the generality, may suggest again counting the cards, to see if all are there when the trick succeeds. Even in this case you need not be discomfitted. At once offer yourself to count the cards, and, gathering them up for that purpose, add to them the four which you removed, which you should again have palmed in readiness. Count them deliberately on to the table, and, when every one is satisfied that the pack is complete, announce that you will once more perform the trick, in order to let every one see that you actually use no more and no less than thirty-two cards. Place the cards as before, counting aloud as you do so, till the whole thirty-two cards are placed. So far you have not varied your method of proceeding, but to succeed with the whole thirty-two cards you must secretly make a slight variation in the manner of picking up. You will remember that the cards were picked up face upwards, beginning from the bottom of the right hand row, placing the cards of that row on those of the next row, and so on. Now, to perform the trick with thirty-two cards, the bottom cards of each row must be gathered up all together, and placed on the face of the pack. Thus, if the bottom card of the first or left hand row be the knave of spades, that of the second row the ten of diamonds, that of the third row the ace of hearts, and that of the fourth row the seven of clubs, those four cards must be picked up as follows: The knave of spades must be placed (face upwards) on the ten of diamonds, the ten of diamonds on the ace of hearts, and the ace of hearts on the seven of clubs, which will occupy its own place on the face of the cards of the last or right-hand row. For convenience of picking up, it will be69 well to place the four rows very near together, slightly converging at the bottom, when it will be tolerably easy, by a bold, quick sweep of the left hand from left to right, to slide the three other cards in due order, on to the bottom card of the last row; while the performer, looking not at the cards but at his audience, diverts their attention by any observations which may occur to him. The trick in this form requires considerable address, and the performer should not, therefore, venture upon it until, by frequent practice, he can be certain of placing the four cards neatly with his left hand, and without looking at his hands, which would infallibly draw the eyes of the audience in the same direction, and thereby spoil the trick.

68 Once three or four people in the group have tried and failed, you'll likely find a chance to pocket a card from each suit again. You can then announce that, having demonstrated your skill, you will graciously lift the restriction and let the next person try to succeed. Of course, they will give it a go; and the trick may very well end here, with you satisfied that you've kept your secret. Even when removed from your negative influence, your students will struggle to perform the trick, as they will naturally try it with the full deck. However, it's possible that an unexpected situation may come up, so it's good to be prepared. Someone in the audience, sharper than the rest, might suggest counting the cards again to check if all of them are present when the trick works. Even then, you need not panic. Immediately offer to count the cards, and, while collecting them for that purpose, add the four you removed, which you should have palmed in advance. Count them carefully onto the table, and when everyone is satisfied that the deck is complete, announce that you will perform the trick again so everyone can see that you're using exactly thirty-two cards. Place the cards as you did before, counting out loud as you go until all thirty-two cards are placed. At this point, you haven't changed your method, but to succeed with all thirty-two cards, you have to make a slight adjustment in how you pick them up. Remember, the cards were picked up face upwards, starting from the bottom of the right-hand row, stacking the cards of that row on top of the next row, and so on. Now, to perform the trick with thirty-two cards, you’ll need to gather up the bottom cards of each row together and place them on top of the pack. So, if the bottom card of the first (or left-hand) row is the jack of spades, the second row has the ten of diamonds, the third row has the ace of hearts, and the fourth row has the seven of clubs, you must pick them up like this: the jack of spades goes (face upwards) on the ten of diamonds, the ten of diamonds on the ace of hearts, and the ace of hearts on the seven of clubs, which will rest on top of the cards in the last row. To make picking them up easier, it's a good idea to place the four rows close together, slightly converging at the bottom. This way, you can quickly and boldly sweep your left hand from left to right to slide the other three cards onto the bottom card of the last row, while you keep your gaze on the audience and divert their attention with any comments that come to mind. This version of the trick requires considerable skill, so the performer shouldn’t attempt it until they’ve practiced enough to confidently place the four cards neatly with their left hand, without looking down, as that would inevitably draw the audience's attention in the same direction and ruin the trick. 69

To Distinguish the Court Cards by Touch.—This trick is performed by means of a preliminary preparation of the court cards, to be made as follows: Take each court card separately, edge upwards, and draw a tolerably sharp knife, the blade held sloping backwards at an angle of about 45°, once or twice along the edge from left to right. This will be found to turn the edge of the card, so to speak, and to leave on each side a minute ridge, not noticeable by the eye, but immediately perceptible, if sought for, to the touch. Prepare the opposite edge of the card in the same way, and again mix the court cards with the pack, which is now ready for use.

To Identify the Court Cards by Touch.—This trick is done by preparing the court cards beforehand, as follows: Take each court card separately, edge facing up, and run a reasonably sharp knife along the edge from left to right at a slant of about 45°, once or twice. This will create a subtle ridge on each side of the card that you can’t see, but can easily feel if you know what to look for. Do the same with the opposite edge of the card, then mix the court cards back into the deck, which is now ready to use.

Offer the prepared pack to be shuffled. When the pack is returned to you, you may either hold it above your head, and, showing the cards in succession, call “court card” or “plain card,” as the case may be, or you may offer to deal the cards into two heaps, consisting of court cards in one heap and plain cards in the other, every now and then offering the cards to be again shuffled. You can, of course, perform the trick blindfold with equal facility.

Offer the prepared deck for shuffling. When the deck is handed back to you, you can either hold it above your head and show the cards one by one, calling out “court card” or “plain card,” depending on what it is, or you can deal the cards into two piles: one for court cards and one for plain cards, occasionally allowing the cards to be shuffled again. You can also easily perform the trick while blindfolded.

You should endeavour to conceal, as much as possible, the fact that you distinguish the court cards by the sense of touch, and rather seek to make your audience believe that the trick is performed by means of some mathematical principle, or by any other means remote from the true explanation. This advice, indeed, applies more or less to all tricks. Thus your knowledge of a forced card depends, of course, on sleight-of-hand; but you should by no means let this be suspected, but rather claim credit for some clairvoyant faculty; and70 vice versâ, when you perform a trick depending on a mathematical combination, endeavour to lead your audience to believe that it is performed by means of some impossible piece of sleight-of-hand. Further, endeavour to vary your modus operandi. If you have just performed a trick depending purely on sleight-of-hand, do not let the next be of the same character, but rather one based on a mathematical principle, or on the use of special apparatus.

You should try to hide the fact that you identify the court cards by touch, and instead, get your audience to believe that the trick is done using some sort of mathematical principle or another method that’s far from the real explanation. This advice actually applies to all tricks. Your ability to force a card relies on sleight-of-hand, but you should never let anyone suspect that; instead, take credit for some sort of clairvoyant ability; and70 vice versâ, when you perform a trick that relies on a mathematical combination, try to make your audience think it's done through some impossible sleight-of-hand. Additionally, try to switch up your modus operandi. If you just did a trick that was all about sleight-of-hand, don’t let the next one be the same type, but choose one that’s based on a mathematical principle or the use of special tools.

To name any Number of Cards in succession without Seeing Them.First Method.—This trick, in its original form, is so well known that it is really not worth performing; but we describe it for the sake of completeness, and for the better comprehension of the improved method. The performer takes the pack, and secretly notices the bottom card. He then announces that he will name all the cards of the pack in succession without seeing them. Holding the pack behind him for an instant, he turns the top card face outwards on the top of the pack; then holding the pack with the bottom card towards the audience, he names that card. From the position in which he holds the pack, the top card, which he has turned, is towards him, and in full view. Again placing his hands behind him, he transfers the last named to the bottom, and turns the next, and so on in like manner. Even in an audience of half-a-dozen only, it is very likely that there will be some one acquainted with this form of the trick, who will proclaim aloud his knowledge of “how it is done.” We will suppose that you have performed the trick with this result. Passing your hands again behind you, but this time merely passing the top card to the bottom, without turning any other card, you reply that you doubt his pretended knowledge, and name the card as before. He will naturally justify his assertion by explaining the mode of performing the trick. You reply, “According to your theory, there should be an exposed card at each end of the pack. Pray observe that there is nothing of the kind in this case” (here you show the opposite side of the pack), “but, to give a still more conclusive proof, I will for the future keep the whole of the pack behind me, and name each card before I bring it forward. Perhaps, to preclude any idea of arrangement of the cards, some one will kindly shuffle them.” When the cards are returned, you give them a slight additional71 shuffle yourself, and remarking, “They are pretty well shuffled now, I think,” continue the trick by the

To name any number of cards in sequence without looking at them.First Method.—This trick is so well-known in its original form that it really isn't worth doing; however, we describe it for the sake of completeness and to better understand the improved method. The performer takes the deck and secretly looks at the bottom card. He then declares that he will name all the cards in the deck one after the other without seeing them. Holding the deck behind his back for a moment, he turns the top card face-up on top of the deck; then, holding the deck with the bottom card facing the audience, he names that card. From the position in which he holds the deck, the top card, which he has turned, is in front of him and fully visible. Again placing his hands behind his back, he moves the last named card to the bottom and turns the next one, and continues in this manner. Even in a crowd of just six people, it's likely that someone will know this version of the trick and will loudly proclaim his insight into “how it's done.” Let's assume you performed the trick and someone reacted this way. When you put your hands behind your back again, but this time only move the top card to the bottom without turning any other card, you respond that you doubt his claimed knowledge and name the card as before. Naturally, he will defend his claim by explaining how he thinks the trick works. You respond, “According to your theory, there should be an exposed card at both ends of the deck. Please notice that there is nothing like that here” (at this point, you show the opposite side of the deck), “but to offer even stronger proof, I will, from now on, keep the entire deck behind me and name each card before I bring it out. Perhaps, to avoid any suspicion of card arrangement, someone would kindly shuffle them.” When the cards are returned, you give them a quick additional71 shuffle yourself, and saying, “I think they're pretty well shuffled now,” you continue the trick by the

Second Method.—Glance, as before, at the bottom card. Place the cards behind you, and name the card you have just seen. Passing the right hand behind you, palm the top card, and then taking hold of the bottom card (the one you have just named) face outwards, with the two first fingers and thumb of the same hand, bring it forward and throw it on the table. Pause for a moment before you throw it down, as if asking the company to verify the correctness of your assertion, and glance secretly at the card which is curled up in your palm. Again place your hands behind you, call the name of the card you last palmed, and palm another. You can, of course, continue the trick as long as you please, each time naming the card which you palmed at the last call. You should take care to have a tolerably wide space between yourself and your audience, in which case, with a very little management on your part, there is little fear of their discovering the secret of the palmed card.

Second Method.—Take a look at the bottom card again. Place the cards behind you and say the name of the card you just saw. With your right hand behind you, hide the top card in your palm, then using your fingers and thumb of the same hand, grab the bottom card (the one you just named) face out and bring it forward to throw it on the table. Wait a moment before you throw it down, as if asking everyone to confirm your claim, and take a quick glance at the card hidden in your palm. Once more, put your hands behind you, say the name of the card you just palmed, and hide another card. You can keep this trick going as long as you want, naming the last palmed card each time. Make sure there’s enough distance between you and your audience, and with a little practice on your part, they should have no chance of figuring out the secret of the card you’re hiding.

You should not be in too great a hurry to name the card you have just seen, or the audience may suspect that you gained your knowledge in the act of bringing forward the card you last named. To negative this idea, you should take care first to bring forward again the right hand, manifestly empty, and do your best to simulate thought and mental exertion before naming the next card.

You shouldn't rush to name the card you've just seen, or the audience might think you figured it out when you revealed the last card. To counter that idea, first, show your right hand, which should be clearly empty, and try to act as though you're thinking hard and concentrating before naming the next card.

To make Four Cards change from Eights to Twos, from Black to Red, etc.—For this trick you require three specially prepared cards. The backs should be similar to those of the pack which you have in ordinary use, the faces being as depicted in Fig. 36. They may be purchased at any of the conjuring depôts.

To change Four Cards from Eights to Twos, from Black to Red, etc.—For this trick, you need three specially prepared cards. The backs should look similar to those of the deck you usually use, while the faces should be as shown in Fig. 36. You can buy them at any magic supply store.

Fig. 36.
Fig. 37.
Fig. 38.
Fig. 39.

You place these three cards privately at the bottom of the pack. You begin by remarking that you will show the company a good trick with the four eights and the two of diamonds. (If you use a piquet pack, you must provide72 yourself with a special two of diamonds, of similar pattern to the rest of the pack.) You take the pack, and picking out the four genuine eights, hand them for examination. While they are being inspected, you insert the little finger of your left hand between the three bottom cards (the prepared cards) and the rest of the pack. When the eights are returned, you place them with apparent carelessness on the top of the pack (taking care, however, to have the eight of clubs uppermost), and hand the two of diamonds for examination. While this card is being examined, you make the pass to bring the three prepared cards on the top. The two of diamonds being returned, you lay it on the table, and taking off the four top cards, which are now the three prepared cards and the eight of clubs, you spread them fanwise, when they will appear to be the four eights, as in Fig. 37. The eight of clubs is alone completely visible, one half of each of the other cards being covered by the card next preceding it. The spectators naturally take the four cards to be the four ordinary eights which they have just examined. Insert the two of diamonds behind the eight of clubs, and lay that card in turn on the table. Close the cards and again spread them, but this time with the opposite ends outward, when they will appear to be the four twos, as in Fig. 38. Again take in the eight of clubs in place of the two of diamonds, and turn round the supposed two of hearts. This you may do easily and naturally by remarking, “I must now touch something black; my coat-sleeve will do. I gently pass either card along it, thus, and replace it as before. The cards are now all black cards,” which they actually73 appear to be. (See Fig. 39.) Again substitute the two of diamonds for the eight of clubs, touch any red object, and again turn and spread out the cards, when they will appear to be all red cards, as in Fig. 40. Once more take in the eight of clubs in place of the two of diamonds, and replace the four cards on the pack, again making the pass in order to bring the three prepared cards to the bottom, and to leave the genuine eights on the top.

You secretly place these three cards at the bottom of the deck. You start by saying that you’re going to show everyone a cool trick with the four eights and the two of diamonds. (If you're using a piquet deck, you need to get a special two of diamonds that matches the rest of the cards.) You take the deck and pull out the four actual eights, letting people look at them. While they’re being examined, you slip the little finger of your left hand between the three bottom cards (the prepared cards) and the rest of the deck. When the eights are handed back, you place them casually on top of the deck (making sure the eight of clubs is on top), and then you hand over the two of diamonds for examination. While this card is being checked, you make the pass to bring the three prepared cards to the top. When the two of diamonds is returned, you lay it on the table, and take off the top four cards, which are now the three prepared cards and the eight of clubs. You fan them out, and they will look like the four eights, as in Fig. 37. The eight of clubs is fully visible, while half of each of the other cards is covered by the one before it. The audience will naturally think the four cards are the four normal eights they just examined. Place the two of diamonds behind the eight of clubs, and then lay that card down on the table. Close the cards and spread them out again, but this time with the opposite ends facing outward, so they appear to be the four twos, as in Fig. 38. Again, take the eight of clubs instead of the two of diamonds, and turn around the supposed two of hearts. You can easily and casually do this by saying, “I need to touch something black; my coat sleeve will work. I gently slide either card along it like this, and put it back as it was. Now all the cards look like black cards,” which they really73 do. (See Fig. 39.) Again replace the two of diamonds with the eight of clubs, touch any red object, and turn and spread the cards again, when they will look like all red cards, as in Fig. 40. Once more, take the eight of clubs back instead of the two of diamonds, and place the four cards back on the deck, making the pass again to bring the three prepared cards to the bottom and keep the real eights on top.

Fig. 40.

There is a more elaborate form of this trick procurable at the conjuring depôts, in which several groups of cards are used in succession, and the changes are proportionately multiplied, various colours and patterns being produced in the place of the ordinary figures on the cards. In our own opinion, the trick loses rather than gains by this greater elaboration, as the more fanciful changes have the disadvantage of showing clearly (which the simpler form of the trick does not) that the cards used are not ordinary cards; and this being once understood, the magic of the trick is destroyed.

There’s a more complex version of this trick that you can find at magic shops, where multiple groups of cards are used one after another, and the transformations are increased accordingly, creating various colors and patterns instead of the usual figures on the cards. In our view, this trick becomes less impressive with this added complexity, as the more elaborate changes make it obvious (which the simpler version does not) that the cards are not regular cards; and once people realize this, the magic of the trick is gone.

We have had occasion more than once to direct you to turn round the cards, and it will be well for you to know how to do this neatly and without exciting suspicion. Hold the four cards fanwise in the left hand, the fingers behind and the thumb in front of the cards. Having exhibited them, turn their faces towards yourself, and with the thumb and finger of the right hand close the fan, and taking them by their upper ends lay them face downwards on the table. Their lower ends will now be away from you, and when you desire again to exhibit the cards (in a transformed condition), you have only to turn them over sideways, and pick them up by the ends which are now directed towards you. This little artifice (which is simplicity itself in practice, though a little difficult to describe) must be carefully studied, as upon neat manipulation in this respect the illusion of the trick mainly depends.

We’ve pointed out more than once that you should know how to flip the cards, and it’s important for you to do this smoothly and without raising any suspicion. Hold the four cards in a fan shape in your left hand, with your fingers behind and your thumb in front of the cards. After showing them, turn the front of the cards towards yourself, and with the thumb and finger of your right hand, close the fan. Then, grab them by their top edges and lay them face down on the table. The bottom edges will now be facing away from you, and when you want to show the cards again (in a different arrangement), all you need to do is flip them over sideways and pick them up by the edges that are now facing you. This little trick (which is really straightforward in practice, even if it’s a bit tricky to describe) should be practiced carefully, as the success of the trick strongly relies on how well you handle the cards.

A Card having been Drawn and Returned, and the Pack shuffled, to make it Appear at such Number as the Company74 Choose.D—Invite a person to draw a card. Spread out the pack that he may replace it, and slip your little finger above it. Make the pass in order to bring the chosen card to the top; palm it, and offer the pack to be shuffled. When the pack is returned to you, replace the chosen card on the top, and make the first of the false shuffles above described, but commence by sliding off into the right hand the two top cards (instead of the top card only), so that the chosen card may, after the shuffle, be last but one from the bottom. Take the pack face downwards in the left hand, and carelessly move about the pack so that the bottom card may be full in view of the audience. Inquire at what number the company would like the card to appear; and when they have made their decision, hold the pack face downwards, and with the first and second fingers of the right hand draw away the cards from the bottom one by one, throwing each on the table face upwards, and counting aloud “one,” “two,” “three,” and so on. The first card which you draw is naturally the bottom one, and the chosen card, which is second, would in the ordinary course come next; but you “draw back” this card with the third finger of the left hand (see page 36) and take the next instead, continuing in like manner until you have reached one short of the number at which the card is to appear. You now pause, and say, “The next card should be the card you drew. To avoid any mistake, will you kindly say beforehand what it was?” at the same time placing the card face downwards on the table. When the card is named, you request the drawer or some other person to turn it up, when it is found to be the right one.

A card has been drawn and put back, and the deck has been shuffled to show the number the group chooses.D—Invite someone to draw a card. Spread out the deck so they can replace it, and slip your little finger above it. Perform the move to bring the chosen card to the top; palm it, and offer the deck to be shuffled. When the deck is returned to you, place the chosen card on top, and do the first of the false shuffles mentioned earlier, but start by sliding off the top two cards into your right hand (instead of just one), so that the chosen card ends up being second to last from the bottom. Take the deck face down in your left hand, and casually move the cards around so that the bottom card can be easily seen by the audience. Ask what number the group would like the card to appear at, and once they decide, hold the deck face down, and with your right hand's first and second fingers, draw the cards from the bottom one by one, placing each on the table face up, and counting out loud “one,” “two,” “three,” and so on. The first card you draw is, of course, the bottom one, and the chosen card, being second, would normally come next; but you'll “draw back” this card with the third finger of your left hand (see page 36) and take the next card instead, continuing this way until you're one short of the number where the card should appear. Now pause and say, “The next card should be the card you drew. To avoid any confusion, could you please say what it was?” while placing the card face down on the table. When the card is named, ask the person who drew it or someone else to turn it over, and it will turn out to be the correct one.

D Another form of this trick, in which sleight-of-hand is not needed, has been given at page 52.

D Another version of this trick, which doesn't require any sleight-of-hand, is explained on page 52.

Another Method.—The card having been drawn and replaced, bring it to the top by the pass, palm it, have the pack shuffled, and replace it on the top. Invite the audience to choose at what number it shall appear. They choose, we will suppose, fifth. “Very good,” you reply; “permit me, in the first place, to show you that it is not there already.” Deal out the first five cards, face downwards, and show that the fifth is not the chosen card. Replace the five cards, in their present order on the pack, when the card will be at the number named.

Another Method.—After drawing and replacing the card, bring it to the top using a pass, palm it, let the deck be shuffled, and put it back on top. Ask the audience to pick a number for when it should appear. Let’s say they choose the fifth position. “Great,” you say; “first, let me show you that it’s not there already.” Deal out the first five cards face down, showing that the fifth card isn’t the one they chose. Return the five cards to the deck in their current order, and now the card will be at the number they specified.

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Several Persons having each Drawn and Returned a Card, to make each Card appear at such Number in the Pack as the Drawer chooses.—Allow three or four persons each to draw a card. When all have drawn, make the pass in such manner as to bring the two halves of the pack face to face. The pack should not, however, be equally divided. The upper portion should only consist of about half-a-dozen cards, and therefore in making the pass you should insert the finger only at that number of cards from the bottom. Receive back the drawn cards on the top of the pack, “ruffling” the cards (see page 27), and saying “Pass!” as each card is replaced. You may casually remark, “Your card has vanished; did you see it go?” When all are returned, you quickly “turn over” the pack (see page 37), and, taking off the top card, say, addressing yourself to the person who last returned a card, “You see your card has vanished, as I told you. At what number in the pack, say from the first to the tenth, would you like it to re-appear?” We will suppose the answer to be “the sixth.” You deal five cards from the end of the pack that is now uppermost, then pretending a momentary hesitation, say, “I fancy I dealt two cards for one; allow me to count them again.” This draws the general attention to the cards on the table, and gives you the opportunity to again turn over the pack. You continue, after counting, “We have five, this makes six; then this should be your card. Will you say what the card was?” You place the card on the table, face downwards, and do not turn it till it is named, this giving you the opportunity to again turn over the pack, to be ready to repeat the operation with the next card. You must be careful to invite the different persons to call for their cards in the reverse order to that in which they are replaced in the pack. Thus, you first address the person who last returned his card, and then the last but one, and so on. You must tax your ingenuity for devices to take off the attention of the spectators from the pack at the moment when it is necessary to turn it over; and as each repetition of the process increases the chance of detection, it is well not to allow more than three or four cards to be drawn.

Several people have drawn and returned a card, with each card appearing at a number in the pack selected by the person who drew it.—Let three or four people draw a card. When everyone has drawn, bring the two halves of the pack together so that they face each other. However, don’t split the pack evenly. The top section should only have about six cards, so when you bring the packs together, insert your finger only up to that number of cards from the bottom. Place the drawn cards back on top of the pack, “ruffling” the cards (see page 27), and say “Pass!” as each card goes back. You might casually say, “Your card has disappeared; did you see it leave?” Once all cards are back in place, quickly “turn over” the pack (see page 37), and as you take the top card, say to the person who last returned a card, “See, your card has vanished, just like I said. At what number in the pack, from one to ten, would you like it to reappear?” Let’s say they choose “the sixth.” Deal five cards from the top of the pack, then pause for a moment and say, “I think I dealt two cards for one; let me count them again.” This draws everyone’s attention to the cards on the table, allowing you a chance to turn the pack over again. After counting, you continue, “We have five, which makes six; this should be your card. Can you tell me what the card was?” Place the card face down on the table and don’t reveal it until it’s named, giving you another opportunity to turn the pack over to prepare for the next card. Be sure to invite each person to call for their cards in reverse order of how they were replaced in the pack. So, start with the person who returned their card last, then the one before that, and so on. You’ll need to get creative to distract the audience from the pack at the moment you need to turn it over; since each time you repeat the process increases the chance of being caught, it’s best not to have more than three or four cards drawn.

If you have reason to fear that the cards left undealt will run short, you may always replace any number of those already dealt upon the reverse end of the pack to that at which the chosen cards are.

If you're worried that the undealt cards might be running low, you can always put back any number of the cards that have already been dealt at the opposite end of the deck from where the chosen cards are.

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The “Three Card” Trick.—This well-known trick has long been banished from the répertoire of the conjuror, and is now used only by the itinerant sharpers who infest race-courses and country fairs. We insert the explanation of it in this place as exemplifying one form of sleight-of-hand, and also as a useful warning to the unwary.

The "Three Card" Trick.—This well-known trick has long been removed from the magician's répertoire and is now only used by the con artists who show up at racetracks and county fairs. We include the explanation here as an example of one type of sleight-of-hand, and also as a helpful caution to the unsuspecting.

In its primary form, the trick is only an illustration of the well-known fact that the hand can move quicker than the eye can follow. It is performed with three cards—a court card and two plain cards. The operator holds them, face downwards, one between the second finger and thumb of the left hand, and the other two (of which the court card is one) one between the first finger and thumb, and the other between the second finger and thumb of the right hand, the latter being the outermost. Bringing the hands quickly together and then quickly apart, he drops the three cards in succession, and challenges the bystanders to say which is the court card. If the movement is quickly made, it is almost impossible, even for the keenest eye, to decide with certainty whether the upper or lower card falls first from the hand, and consequently which of the three cards, as they lie, is the court card. This is the whole of the trick, if fairly performed, and so far it would be a fair subject for betting, though the chances would be much against the person guessing; but another element is introduced by the swindling fraternity, which ensures the discomfiture of the unwary speculator. The operator is aided by three or four confederates, or “bonnets,” whose business it is to start the betting, and who, of course, are allowed to win. After this has gone on for a little time, and a sufficient ring of spectators has been got together, the operator makes use of some plausible pretext to look aside from the cards for a moment. While he does so one of the confederates, with a wink at the bystanders, slily bends up one corner of the court card, ostensibly as a means of recognition. The performer takes up the cards without apparently noticing the trick that has been played upon him, but secretly (that corner of the card being concealed by the third and fourth fingers of the right hand) straightens the bent corner, and at the same moment bends in like manner the corresponding corner of the other card in the same hand. He then throws down the cards as before. The bent corner is plainly visible,77 and the spectators, who do not suspect the change that has just been made, are fully persuaded that the card so bent, and no other, is the court card. Speculating, as they imagine, on a certainty, they are easily induced to bet that they will discover the court card, and they naturally name the one with the bent corner. When the card is turned, they find, to their disgust, that they have been duped, and that the dishonest advantage which they imagined they had obtained over the dealer was in reality a device for their confusion.

In its basic form, the trick simply shows the well-known fact that the hand can move faster than the eye can keep up with. It's done with three cards—a face card and two plain cards. The performer holds them face down, one card between the second finger and thumb of the left hand, and the other two (one being the face card) one between the first finger and thumb and the other between the second finger and thumb of the right hand, with the latter being on the outside. By bringing the hands together quickly and then apart, he drops the three cards in order and challenges the onlookers to identify the face card. If done swiftly, it becomes almost impossible, even for the sharpest observer, to clearly see which card falls first from the hand and thus which of the three cards on the table is the face card. This is the entirety of the trick when executed honestly, and up to this point, it could be a fair game for betting, though the odds would be heavily against anyone trying to guess correctly. However, a new element is brought in by the con artists, which ensures the downfall of the unsuspecting gambler. The performer is helped by three or four accomplices, or "bonnets," whose job is to initiate the betting and, of course, they are allowed to win. After this has gone on for a while, gathering a decent crowd of spectators, the performer finds some believable excuse to look away from the cards for a moment. While he does this, one of the accomplices, with a wink to the onlookers, discreetly bends up one corner of the face card as a way of marking it. The performer picks up the cards without seeming to notice the trick that has been pulled off but discreetly (with that corner of the card hidden by the third and fourth fingers of his right hand) straightens the bent corner, and at the same time bends the corresponding corner of the other card in the same hand. He then drops the cards as before. The bent corner is clearly visible, 77 and the spectators, unaware of the switch just made, are convinced that the card with the bent corner is the face card. Believing they are speculating on something certain, they are easily persuaded to bet that they'll find the face card, and naturally, they point to the one with the bent corner. When the card is flipped over, they realize, to their frustration, that they have been tricked, and that the supposed advantage they thought they gained over the dealer was actually a setup for their downfall.

To Nail a Chosen Card to the Wall.—Procure a sharp drawing pin, and place it point upwards on the table, mantelpiece, or any other place where it will not attract the notice of the spectators, and yet be so close to you that you can cover it with your hand without exciting suspicion. Ask any person to draw a card. When he returns it to the pack, make the pass to bring it to the top, palm it, and immediately offer the pack to be shuffled. While this is being done, place your right hand carelessly over the pin, so as to bring the centre of the card as near as possible over it, and then press gently on the card, so as to make the point of the pin just penetrate it.

To Pin a Selected Card to the Wall.—Get a sharp drawing pin and place it point up on the table, mantel, or any spot where it won’t draw attention from the spectators, but is close enough for you to cover it with your hand without raising any suspicions. Ask someone to pick a card. When they return it to the deck, make the pass to bring it to the top, palm it, and then immediately offer the deck to be shuffled. While this is happening, casually place your right hand over the pin, positioning the center of the card as close to it as possible, then gently press on the card to allow the pin's point to just penetrate it.

When the pack is returned, place the palmed card upon the top, and thus press home the pin, which will project about a quarter of an inch through the back of the card. Request the audience to indicate any point upon the woodwork of the apartment at which they would like the chosen card to appear; and when the spot is selected, stand at two or three feet distance, and fling the cards, backs foremost, heavily against it, doing your best to make them strike as flat as possible, when the other cards will fall to the ground, but the selected one will remain firmly pinned to the woodwork. Some little practice will be necessary before you can make certain of throwing the pack so as to strike in the right position. Until you can be quite sure of doing this, it is better to be content with merely striking the pack against the selected spot. The result is the same, though the effect is less surprising than when the cards are actually thrown from the hand.

When the pack is returned, place the hidden card on top and press the pin in, which will stick out about a quarter of an inch through the back of the card. Ask the audience to point out any spot on the woodwork of the room where they’d like the chosen card to appear. Once they pick a spot, stand two or three feet away and throw the cards, backs facing out, hard against it, trying to hit as flat as possible. The other cards will fall to the ground, but the selected one will remain pinned to the woodwork. You’ll need some practice to get the throw right. Until you’re confident, it’s better to just tap the pack against the chosen spot. The result will be the same, although it’s less impressive than actually throwing the cards from your hand.

The Inseparable Sevens.—Place secretly beforehand three of the four eights at the bottom of the pack, the fourth eight, which is78 not wanted for the trick, being left in whatever position it may happen to occupy. (The suit of this fourth eight must be borne in mind, for a reason which will presently appear.) Now select openly the four sevens from the pack, and spread them on the table. While the company are examining them, privately slip the little finger of the left hand immediately above the three eights at the bottom, so as to be in readiness to make the pass. Gather up the four sevens, and place them on the top of the pack, taking care that the seven of the same suit as the fourth eight is uppermost. Make a few remarks as to the affectionate disposition of the four sevens, which, however far apart they are placed in the pack, will always come together; and watch your opportunity to make the pass, so as to bring the three eights, originally at the bottom, to the top. If you are sufficiently expert, you may make the pass at the very instant that you place the four sevens on the top of the pack; but, unless you are very adroit, it is better to bide your time and make it an instant later, when the attention of the audience is less attracted to your hands. You then continue, “I shall now take these sevens (you can see for yourselves that I have not removed them), and place them in different parts of the pack.” At the words, “You can see for yourselves,” etc., you take off the four top cards, and show them fanwise. In reality, three of them are eights, but the fourth and foremost card being actually a seven, and the eighth pip of each of the other cards being concealed by the card before it, and the audience having, as they imagine, already seen the same cards spread out fairly upon the table, there is nothing to suggest a doubt that they are actually the sevens. (You will now see the reason why it is necessary to place uppermost the seven of the same suit as the absent eight. If you had not done so the seven in question would have been of the same suit as one or other of the three sham sevens, and the audience, knowing that there could not be two sevens of the same suit, would at once see through the trick.) Again folding up the four cards you insert the top one a little above the bottom of the pack, the second a little higher, the third a little higher still, and the fourth (which is a genuine seven) upon the top of the pack. The four sevens, which are apparently so well distributed throughout the pack, are really together on the top, and you have only to make the pass, or, if you prefer it, simply cut79 the cards, to cause them to be found together in the centre of the pack.

The Unbreakable Sevens.—First, secretly place three of the four eights at the bottom of the deck, leaving the fourth eight in whatever position it is currently in. (You need to remember the suit of this fourth eight for a reason that will become clear.) Now, openly choose the four sevens from the deck and spread them out on the table. While everyone is looking at them, quietly slip the little finger of your left hand just above the three eights at the bottom, preparing to make the switch. Gather the four sevens and stack them on top of the deck, ensuring that the seven of the same suit as the fourth eight is on the top. Mention the close bond between the four sevens, saying they will always come together no matter how far apart they are placed in the deck, and look for the right moment to make the switch, bringing the three eights from the bottom to the top. If you're skilled enough, you can make the switch just as you place the four sevens on the top of the deck; otherwise, it’s better to wait a moment until the audience's attention is less focused on your hands. Then say, “I will now take these sevens (you can see that I haven't removed them) and place them in different parts of the deck.” When you say, “You can see for yourselves,” etc., lift off the top four cards and display them in a fan. In reality, three of these cards are eights, but the top card is genuinely a seven, and the eighth pip on each of the other cards is hidden by the card before it. The audience, having believed they saw the same cards spread fairly on the table, will not doubt that they actually see the sevens. (Now you can see why it’s crucial to put the seven of the same suit as the missing eight on top. If you hadn’t, that seven would share a suit with one of the three fake sevens, and the audience would immediately realize the trick.) Once again, you stack the four cards, placing the top one slightly above the bottom of the deck, the second a bit higher, the third even higher, and the fourth (which is a real seven) on top of the deck. The four sevens, which seem to be well distributed throughout the deck, are actually together on top, and you just need to make the switch, or if you prefer, simply cut79 the cards to have them appear together in the middle of the deck.

The Inseparable Aces.—This is really only another form of the last trick, though it differs a good deal in effect. You first pick out and exhibit on the table the four aces, and request some one to replace them on the pack, when you place three other cards secretly upon them. This you may either do by bringing three cards from the bottom by the pass, or you may, while the company’s attention is occupied in examining the aces, palm three cards from the top in the right hand, and, after the aces are replaced on the top, simply cover them with that hand, thereby bringing the three palmed cards upon them. You now say, “I am about to distribute these aces in different parts of the pack; pray observe that I do so fairly.” As you say this, you take off and hold up to the audience the four top cards, being the three indifferent cards with an ace at the bottom. You cannot, of course, exhibit them fanwise, as in the last trick, or the deception would be at once detected; but the spectators, seeing an ace at the bottom, and having no particular reason for suspecting otherwise, naturally believe that the cards you hold are really the four aces. Laying the four cards on the table, you distribute them, as in the last trick, in different parts of the pack; taking care, however, that the last card (which is the genuine ace), is placed among the three already at the top.

The Unbreakable Aces.—This is really just another version of the last trick, though it has a different effect. First, you take out and show the four aces on the table, then ask someone to put them back into the deck while you secretly place three other cards on top of them. You can do this by bringing three cards up from the bottom using a pass, or, while everyone is focused on the aces, you can palm three cards from the top with your right hand, and after replacing the aces on top, simply cover them with that hand, bringing the three palmed cards on top of them. Then you say, “I’m going to distribute these aces in different parts of the deck; please note that I’m doing this fairly.” As you say this, you lift and show the audience the four top cards, which are the three random cards with an ace at the bottom. You can’t show them fanned out like in the last trick, or the trick would be immediately obvious; but since the spectators see an ace at the bottom and have no reason to suspect anything else, they naturally think the cards in your hand are the four aces. You place the four cards on the table and distribute them throughout the deck like in the last trick, being careful to ensure that the last card (the real ace) is placed among the three already on top.

You now invite some one to cut. When he has done so, you take up the two halves, in their transposed position, in the left hand, at the same time slipping the little finger of that hand between them. The four aces are now, of course, upon the top of the lower packet. You then announce, “I am now about to order the four aces, which you have seen so well divided, to come together again. Would you like them to appear on the top, at the bottom, or in the middle of the pack? I should tell you that I know perfectly well beforehand which you will choose, and indeed I have already placed them at that particular spot.” If the answer is, “In the middle,” you have only to withdraw the little finger, and invite the company to examine the pack to see that they are already so placed. If the answer is, “On the top,” you make the pass to bring them there. To produce them80 at the bottom is rather more difficult, and unless you are pretty confident as to your neatness of manipulation, it will be well to limit the choice to “top” or “middle.” In order to be able to bring the four aces to the bottom, you must, in picking up the cards after the cut, push forward a little with the left thumb the four top cards of the lower packet, and slip the little finger below and the third finger above them, so as to be able to make the pass above or below those four cards as occasion may require. If you are required to bring those four cards to the top, you must withdraw the little finger (thereby joining those cards to the upper cards of the lower packet) and make the pass with the aid of the third finger instead of the fourth. If, on the contrary, you desire to produce the four aces at the bottom, you simply withdraw the third finger, thereby leaving the aces at the bottom of the upper packet, when the pass will bring them to the bottom of the pack.

You now ask someone to cut the deck. Once they've done that, you pick up the two halves in your left hand, while inserting your little finger between them. The four aces, of course, are now on top of the lower packet. You then say, “I’m about to make the four aces, which you’ve seen well separated, come back together. Would you like them to be on the top, the bottom, or in the middle of the deck? I should mention that I already know which one you will pick, and I’ve placed them exactly where you’ll choose.” If they say, “In the middle,” just pull out your little finger and invite everyone to check the deck to see that they’re already there. If they say, “On the top,” make the move to bring them there. Getting them to appear at the bottom is a bit trickier, so unless you're very confident in your sleight of hand, it’s better to stick to “top” or “middle.” To get the four aces to the bottom, when picking up the cards after the cut, you need to slightly push the top four cards of the lower packet forward with your left thumb, then insert your little finger beneath and your third finger above them, allowing you to make the move above or below those four cards as needed. If they want the four cards on top, withdraw your little finger (which will connect those cards with the top cards of the lower packet) and use your third finger to make the move instead of your fourth. Conversely, if you want to place the four aces at the bottom, just remove your third finger, leaving the aces at the bottom of the upper packet, so that the move will bring them to the bottom of the deck.

We have described the trick as performed with the aces, but the effect will, of course, be the same with four kings, four queens, or any other four similar cards.

We’ve explained the trick using the aces, but the result will, of course, be the same with four kings, four queens, or any other four matching cards.

Having placed the Four Aces in different positions in the Pack, to make the two Black change places with the two Red ones, and finally to bring all Four together in the middle of the Pack.—This trick may immediately follow that last described. Again selecting the four aces (or such other four cards as you used for the last trick), and placing them on the table, take the two red ones, and opening the pack bookwise in the left hand, ostentatiously place them in the middle, at the same time secretly slipping your little finger between them. Ask the audience to particularly notice which of the aces are placed in the middle, and which at top and bottom. Next place one of the black aces on the top, and then turning over the pack by extending your left hand, place the remaining black ace at the bottom. As you again turn over the pack to its former position, make the pass, which the movement of the pack in turning over in the hand will be found to facilitate. The two halves of the pack having now changed places, the aces will, naturally, have changed their positions also, the two black ones now being in the middle, and the two red ones at top and bottom;81 but it would be very indiscreet to allow the audience to know that this is already the case. As has been already mentioned, when a given change has taken or is about to take place, you should always seek to mislead the spectators as to the time of the change, as they are thereby the less likely to detect the mode in which it is effected. In accordance with this principle, you should endeavour in the present case to impress firmly upon the minds of your audience that the cards are as they have seen you place them; and for that purpose it is well to ask some one to say over again, for the general satisfaction, in what parts of the pack the four aces are.

After putting the Four Aces in different positions in the Deck, so the two Black ones switched places with the two Red ones, and then finally bringing all Four together in the center of the Deck.—This trick can directly follow the last one. Again, choose the four aces (or any other four cards you used for the last trick) and set them on the table. Take the two red ones, and while holding the deck in your left hand, open it bookwise, clearly placing them in the middle while secretly sliding your little finger between them. Ask the audience to pay close attention to which aces are in the middle and which are at the top and bottom. Next, put one of the black aces on top, then, while turning the deck over by extending your left hand, place the other black ace at the bottom. As you flip the deck back to its original position, make the pass, which the movement of the deck will help facilitate. Now that the two halves of the deck have swapped places, the aces will have naturally also changed their positions, with the two black aces now in the middle and the two red ones at the top and bottom; 81 but it would be very unwise to let the audience realize this is the case already. As mentioned before, when a change is happening or about to happen, you should always try to mislead the spectators about the timing of the change, as this makes them less likely to figure out how it’s done. Following this principle, you should aim to firmly convince your audience that the cards are exactly as they saw you place them; to achieve this, it’s helpful to ask someone to repeat where the four aces are positioned in the deck for everyone’s satisfaction.

At this point a contretemps may arise, for which it is well to be prepared. The person interrogated may possibly forget the relative position of the two colours, and may, therefore, ask to see again how the cards are placed; or some person may have seen or suspected that you have already displaced them, and may make a similar request for the purpose of embarrassing you. In order to be prepared for such a contingency, it is desirable, after you make the pass as above mentioned, not to allow the two halves of the pack to immediately coalesce, but to keep them still separated by the little finger. If you have done this, and for any reason it becomes necessary to show the cards a second time in their original condition, you have only to again make the pass, in order to bring them back to the same position which they occupied at first, making it a third time in order to effect the change.

At this point, a contretemps may come up, so it's good to be ready for it. The person being questioned might forget the order of the two colors and may want to see how the cards are arranged again; or someone might have noticed or suspected that you’ve already changed them and could make a similar request to catch you off guard. To be prepared for such a situation, it’s best, after you make the pass as mentioned earlier, not to let the two halves of the pack immediately come together, but to keep them slightly separated with your little finger. If you’ve done this, and for any reason you need to show the cards a second time in their original state, you just need to perform the pass again to return them to the original position they occupied at first, and do it a third time to make the change.

We will suppose that the audience are at length fully satisfied that the two red aces are in the middle, and the two black ones at the opposite ends of the pack. You then say, “Ladies and gentlemen, I am about to command these aces to change places. Pray observe by what a very simple movement the transposition is effected.” Making a quick upward movement with the right hand, you ruffle the cards, at the same moment saying, “Pass!” Turning the faces of the card to the audience, you show them that the red aces are now at top and bottom, and the black ones in the middle. While exhibiting them, take an opportunity to slip the little finger between these latter, and in closing the cards (while they are still face upwards), again make the pass, and place the pack face downwards on the table. You then say, “I have now, as you see, made the aces change places. I82 don’t know whether you saw how I did it. Perhaps I was a little too quick for you. This time I will do it as slowly as you please, or, if you prefer it, I will not even touch the cards with my hands, but merely place my wand upon the pack, so. Pass! Will you please to examine the pack for yourselves, when you will find that the aces have again changed places, and have returned to their original positions.” This is found to be the case. You continue, “You have not found me out yet? Well, to reward your attention, as this really is a very good trick, I will show you how to do it for yourselves.” Pick out the four aces, and hand the two red ones to one person, and the two black ones to another person. Then, taking the pack in your left hand, and addressing yourself first to the person on your right, request him to place the two aces which he holds respectively at the top and bottom of the pack. Then, turning to the other person, request him to place the two other aces in the middle of the pack, which you (apparently) open midway with the right hand for the purpose. In reality, instead of merely lifting up, as you appear to do, the top half of the pack, you make the pass by sliding out the bottom half of the pack to the left. This movement is completely lost in your quick half turn to the left as you address the second person, which so covers the smaller movement of the cards as to make it absolutely imperceptible; and it is in order to create the excuse for this useful half turn, that we have recommended you to place the aces in the hands of two different persons, and to begin with the person on your right. When the second pair of aces are thus replaced in the middle of the pack they are in reality placed between the two others, which the audience believe to be still at top and bottom. You now hand the pack to a person to hold, placing it face downwards in his palm, and requesting him to hold it very tightly, thus preventing any premature discovery of the top or bottom card. You then say, “I have promised to show you how to perform this trick. To make it still more striking, we will have this time a little variation. Instead of merely changing places, we will make all the four aces come together.” Then, addressing the person who holds the cards, you continue, “The manner of performing this trick is simplicity itself, though it looks so surprising. Will you take my wand in your right hand? Hold the cards very tightly, and touch83 the back with this end of the wand. Quite right. Now say ‘Pass!’ It is very simple, you see. Let us see whether you have succeeded. Look over the pack for yourself. Yes, there are the aces all together, as well as I could have done it myself. You can try it again by yourself at your leisure, but please don’t tell any one else the secret, or you will ruin my business.”

We’ll assume that the audience is now completely convinced that the two red aces are in the middle and the two black ones are at the ends of the deck. You then say, “Ladies and gentlemen, I’m about to make these aces switch places. Please watch how a very simple movement accomplishes this.” Making a quick upward motion with your right hand, you shuffle the cards while saying, “Pass!” Turning the cards face-up for the audience, you show them that the red aces are now on the top and bottom, with the black ones in the middle. While showing them, take the opportunity to slide your little finger between the black aces, and as you close the deck (still face up), make the pass again and set the pack face down on the table. You then say, “I have now, as you can see, made the aces switch places. I’m not sure if you noticed how I did it. Maybe I was a bit too quick for you. This time, I’ll do it as slowly as you want, or if you’d prefer, I won’t even touch the cards with my hands, but just place my wand on the pack like this. Pass! Please check the pack for yourselves, and you’ll see that the aces have swapped places again and returned to their original positions.” This turns out to be true. You continue, “You still haven’t figured me out? Well, to reward your attention, since this is a really good trick, I’ll show you how to do it yourself.” Pick out the four aces and give the two red ones to one person and the two black ones to another. Then, holding the pack in your left hand and addressing the person on your right first, ask them to place the two aces they have at the top and bottom of the deck. Turning to the other person, ask them to place the two other aces in the middle of the deck, which you (seemingly) open midway with your right hand for this purpose. In reality, instead of just lifting up what seems to be the top half of the pack, you perform the pass by sliding out the bottom half of the pack to the left. This move is completely unnoticed as you quickly turn half to the left while speaking to the second person, which covers the smaller card movement to make it entirely undetectable. This half turn is why we suggested giving the aces to two different people and starting with the one on your right. When the second pair of aces are placed in the middle of the pack, they are actually situated between the two others, which the audience believes are still on the top and bottom. You then hand the pack to someone to hold, setting it face down in their palm, asking them to grip it tightly to prevent any early discovery of the top or bottom card. You then say, “I promised to show you how to perform this trick. To make it even more impressive, we’ll add a little twist this time. Instead of just switching places, we’ll make all four aces come together.” Turning to the person holding the cards, you continue, “The way to perform this trick is super simple, even though it looks really surprising. Will you take my wand in your right hand? Hold the cards tightly, and touch the back with this end of the wand. That’s right. Now say, ‘Pass!’ It’s really that simple, you see. Let’s check if you’ve succeeded. Look through the pack for yourself. Yes, there are the aces all together, just as I could have done it myself. You can try it again whenever you like, but please don’t share the secret with anyone else, or you’ll ruin my business.”

The above delusive offer to show “how it’s done” can be equally well adapted to many other tricks, and never fails to create amusement.

The misleading offer to show "how it's done" can easily be applied to many other tricks and always manages to entertain.

A Card having been thought of, to make such Card Vanish from the Pack, and be Discovered wherever the Performer pleases.—This trick should be performed with twenty-seven cards only. You deal the cards, face upwards, in three packs, requesting one of the company to note a card, and to remember in which heap it is. When you have dealt the three heaps, you inquire in which heap the chosen card is, and place the other two heaps, face upwards as they lie, upon that heap, then turn over the cards, and deal again in like manner. You again inquire which heap the chosen card is now in, place that heap undermost as before, and deal again for the third time, when the card thought of will be the first card dealt of one or other of the three heaps. You have, therefore, only to bear in mind the first card of each heap to know, when the proper heap is pointed out, what the card is. You do not, however, disclose your knowledge, but gather up the cards as before, with the designated heap undermost; when the cards are turned over, that heap naturally becomes uppermost, and the chosen card, being the first card of that heap, is now the top card of the pack. You palm this card, and hand the remaining cards to be shuffled. Having now gained not only the knowledge, but the actual possession, of the chosen card, you can finish the trick in a variety of ways. You may, when the pack is returned replace the card on the top, and giving the pack, face upwards, to a person to hold, strike out of his hand all but the chosen card (see page 44); or you may, if you prefer it, name the chosen card, and announce that it will now leave the pack, and fly into a person’s pocket, or any other place you choose to name, where, it being already in your hand, you can very easily find it. A very84 effective finish is produced by taking haphazard any card from the pack, and announcing that to be the chosen card, and on being told that it is the wrong card, apologizing for your mistake, and forthwith “changing” it by the fifth method (see page 32) to the right one.

A card has been chosen to disappear from the deck and reappear wherever the performer wants.—This trick should be done using only twenty-seven cards. You deal the cards face up into three piles, asking someone to remember a card and which pile it’s in. After dealing the three piles, you ask which pile has the chosen card and stack the other two piles face up on that one, then turn the cards over and deal again in the same way. Again, you ask which pile the chosen card is in, place that pile underneath as before, and deal for a third time, at which point the selected card will be the first card dealt from one of the three piles. Therefore, you only need to remember the first card of each pile to know what the selected card is when the right pile is indicated. However, you don’t reveal your knowledge; instead, you gather the cards as before with the chosen pile underneath. When the cards are turned over, that pile will be on top, and the chosen card, being the first card of that pile, is now the top card of the deck. You palm this card and hand over the remaining cards to be shuffled. Now that you have both the knowledge and the actual card, you can end the trick in various ways. You could, after the deck is returned, place the card on top and hand the deck, face up, to someone to hold, then strike all but the selected card from their hand (see page 44); or if you prefer, you can name the chosen card and say it will now leave the deck and fly into someone’s pocket or any other place you choose, where you can easily find it since you already have it in your hand. A very 84 effective ending can be achieved by randomly taking any card from the deck and claiming it to be the chosen card, and upon being told it’s the wrong card, you apologize for your mistake and promptly “change” it to the correct one using the fifth method (see page 32).

Some fun may also be created as follows:—You name, in the first instance, a wrong card—say the seven of hearts. On being told that that was not the card thought of, you affect surprise, and inquire what the card thought of was. You are told, let us say, the king of hearts. “Ah,” you remark, “that settles it; I felt sure you were mistaken. You could not possibly have seen the king of hearts, for you have been sitting on that card all the evening. Will you oblige me by standing up for a moment,” and, on the request being complied with, you apparently take the card (which you have already palmed) from off the chair on which the person has been sitting. The more shrewd of the company may conjecture that you intentionally named a wrong card in order to heighten the effect of the trick; but a fair proportion will always be found to credit your assertion, and will believe that the victim had really, by some glamour on your part, been induced to imagine he saw a card which he was actually sitting on.

Some fun can also be created like this: You first name a wrong card—let's say the seven of hearts. When you're told that’s not the card they were thinking of, you act surprised and ask what the card actually was. You’re told, for instance, the king of hearts. “Ah,” you say, “that settles it; I was sure you were mistaken. You couldn’t possibly have seen the king of hearts because you’ve been sitting on that card all evening. Could you please stand up for a moment?” When they comply, you seemingly take the card (which you’ve already palmed) from the chair where they were sitting. The sharper members of the group might guess that you named a wrong card on purpose to enhance the trick, but a good number of people will believe your claim and think that the person was somehow tricked into imagining they saw a card they were actually sitting on.

This trick is frequently performed with the whole thirty-two cards of the piquet pack. The process and result are the same, save that the card thought of must be one of the twenty-seven cards first dealt. The chances are greatly against one of the last five cards being the card thought of, but in such an event the trick would break down, as it would in that case require four deals instead of three to bring the chosen card to the top of the pack.

This trick is often done with all thirty-two cards from the piquet pack. The method and outcome are the same, except that the card you think of has to be one of the twenty-seven cards that were dealt first. The odds are heavily against one of the last five cards being the chosen card, but if that happens, the trick would fail, since it would then need four deals instead of three to get the selected card to the top of the deck.

It is a good plan to deal the five surplus cards in a row by themselves, and after each deal, turn up one of them, and gravely study it, as if these cards were in some way connected with the trick.

It’s a smart idea to deal the five extra cards in a row on their own, and after each deal, flip one of them over and study it thoughtfully, as if these cards are somehow linked to the trick.

To cause a Number of Cards to Multiply invisibly in a Person’s keeping.—Secretly count any number, say a dozen, of the top cards, and slip the little finger of the left hand between those cards and the rest of the pack. Invite a person to take as many cards as he pleases, at the same time putting into his hands all, or nearly all, of the separated cards. If he does not take all, you will be able to see at a glance, by the number that remains above your little finger,85 how many he has actually taken. Pretend to weigh in your hand the remaining cards, and say (we assume that you are using a piquet pack), “I should say by the weight that I have exactly twenty-two cards here, so you must have taken ten. Will you see if I am right?” While he is counting the cards he has taken, count off secretly from the pack, and palm in the right hand, four more. When he has finished his counting, you say, “Now will you please gather these cards together, and place your hand firmly upon them?” As you say this, you push them towards him with your right hand. This enables you to add to them, without attracting notice, the four cards in that hand. Continue, “Now how many cards shall I add to those in your hand? You must not be too extravagant, say three or four.” The person addressed will probably select one or other of the numbers named, but you must be prepared for the possibility of his naming a smaller number. If he says “Four,” you have only to ruffle the cards in your hand, or make any other gesture which may ostensibly effect the transposition; and he will find on examination that the cards under his hand are increased by four, according to his desire. If he says “Three,” you say, “Please give me back one card, to show the others the way.” This makes the number right. If “two” are asked for, you may ask for two cards to show the way; or you may say, “Two, very good! Shall I send a couple more for anybody else?” when some one or other is pretty sure to accept your offer. If one only is asked for, you must get two or three persons to take one each, taking care always by one or the other expedient to make the number correspond with the number you have secretly added. While the attention of the company is attracted by the counting of the cards, to see if you have performed your undertaking, again palm the same number of cards as was last selected (suppose three), and, after the cards are counted, gather them up, and give them to some other person to hold, adding to them the three just palmed; then taking that number of cards from the top of the pack, and again replacing them, say, “I will now send these three cards into your hands in the same manner.” Ruffle the cards, as before, and, upon examination, the number of cards in the person’s hands will again be found to be increased by three.

To have several cards multiply secretly while someone is holding them.—Silently count any number, let’s say a dozen, of the top cards, and slide the little finger of your left hand between those cards and the rest of the deck. Ask a person to take as many cards as they want, while at the same time putting into their hands all, or almost all, of the separated cards. If they don’t take all of them, you can easily see how many they’ve actually taken by counting the cards that remain above your little finger,85 as you pretend to weigh the remaining cards in your hand, and say (assuming you’re using a piquet pack), “I’d guess by the weight that I have exactly twenty-two cards here, so you must have taken ten. Can you check if I'm right?” While they’re counting the cards they’ve taken, secretly count off four more from the pack and palm them in your right hand. When they finish counting, say, “Now will you please gather these cards together and place your hand firmly on top of them?” As you say this, push the cards toward them with your right hand. This allows you to add the four cards from your right hand without being noticed. Continue, “Now how many cards should I add to those in your hand? Don’t be too greedy, let’s say three or four.” The person will likely choose one of those numbers, but be ready in case they choose a smaller number. If they say “Four,” just ruffle the cards in your hand or make any gesture that seems to complete the transposition; they will find that the cards under their hand have increased by four, as they wished. If they say “Three,” you say, “Please give me back one card to show the others what to do.” This makes the number match correctly. If they ask for “two,” you might request two cards to show the way, or you could say, “Two, great! Should I send a couple more to anyone else?” and someone is likely to take you up on that offer. If they only ask for one, get two or three people to each take one, always ensuring that you adjust the total number to match the number you’ve secretly added. While the group’s attention is on counting the cards to see if you’ve fulfilled your promise, again palm the same number of cards that were just selected (let’s say three) and, after the counting is done, collect them and hand them to someone else to hold, adding the three cards you just palmed. Then, taking the same number of cards from the top of the pack and putting them back, say, “I will now send these three cards into your hands in the same way.” Ruffle the cards again, and upon examination, the number of cards in the person’s hands will once again be found to have increased by three.

86

86

The Pack being divided into Two Portions, placed in the keeping of two different Persons, to make Three Cards Pass invisibly from the One to the Other.—This trick is identical in principle with the one last described, but the mise en scène is more elaborate, and several circumstances concur to give it a surprising effect. It was a special favourite with the late M. Robert-Houdin, and we shall proceed to describe it as nearly as possible in the form in which it was presented by him.

The Pack is split into two sections, each held by different people, allowing three cards to transfer invisibly from one to the other.—This trick is fundamentally the same as the previous one, but the mise en scène is more detailed, and various factors combine to create a surprising effect. It was a particular favorite of the late M. Robert-Houdin, and we will describe it as closely as possible in the form he presented it.

The performer brings forward a pack of cards, still in the official envelope. These he hands to a spectator, with a request that he will open and count them. He does so, and finds that they have the full complement (of thirty-two or fifty-two, as the case may be). He is next requested to cut the pack into two portions, pretty nearly equal, and to choose one of the packets. Having made his selection, he is further asked to count the cards in the packet chosen. The general attention being, meanwhile, drawn away from the performer, he has ample opportunity to get ready in his right hand, duly palmed, three cards of another pack, but of similar pattern to those of the pack in use. (These may previously be placed either on the servante or in the performer’s right-hand pochette; or he may, if he prefers it, have them ready palmed in his right hand when he comes upon the stage to commence the trick.) The spectator, having duly counted the chosen pack, declares it to consist, say, of seventeen cards. “A capital number for the trick,” remarks the performer. “Now, sir, will you be kind enough to take these seventeen cards in your own hands” (here he pushes them carelessly towards him, and joins the three palmed cards to them), “and hold them well up above your head, that every one may see them. Thank you. Now, as your packet contains seventeen cards, this other” (we are supposing a piquet pack to be used) “should contain fifteen. Let us see whether you have counted right.” The performer himself audibly counts the remaining packet, card by card, on the table: immediately afterwards taking the heap in his left hand, and squaring the cards together, thus obtaining the opportunity to separate and palm in his right hand the three top cards. He continues, “Fifteen cards here—and—how many did you say, sir?—yes, seventeen, which the gentleman holds, make thirty-two. Quite right. Now will some one else oblige me by taking charge of87 these fifteen cards.” He hands the cards with the left hand, and at the same moment drops the three palmed cards into the profonde on the right side, immediately bringing up the hand, that it may be seen empty. “Now, ladies and gentlemen, I will show you a very curious phenomenon, all the more astonishing because you will bear me witness that, from the time the cards were counted, they have not been even one moment in my possession, but have remained in independent custody. Will you, sir” (addressing the person who holds the second packet), “hold up the cards in such a manner that I can touch them with my wand. I have but to strike the cards with my wand once, twice, thrice, and at each touch a card will fly from the packet which you are now holding, and go to join the seventeen cards in the other packet. As this trick is performed by sheer force of will, without the aid of apparatus or dexterity, I shall be glad if you will all assist me by adding the force of your will to mine, which will greatly lighten my labour. At each touch of the wand, then, please, all present, mentally to command a card to pass in the manner I have mentioned. Are you all ready! Then we will make the experiment. One, two, THREE! Did you see the cards pass? I saw them distinctly, but possibly my eyes are quicker than yours. Will each of the gentlemen who hold the cards be good enough to count his packet?” This is done, and it is found that the one holds twenty cards, and the other twelve only.

The performer presents a pack of cards, still in its official envelope. He hands it to a spectator and asks him to open and count them. The spectator does so and confirms that there are the correct number of cards (either thirty-two or fifty-two, depending on the pack). Next, he’s asked to split the pack into two roughly equal portions and choose one of the piles. After making his selection, he counts the cards in the chosen stack. While the audience's attention is diverted, the performer takes the opportunity to discreetly prepare three cards from another pack, which have a similar design to the current pack. (These can either be on the servante or in the performer’s right-hand pochette, or he can have them palmed in his right hand when he comes on stage.) After counting, the spectator announces that his chosen pack consists of, let’s say, seventeen cards. “A great number for this trick,” the performer notes. “Now, would you kindly take these seventeen cards in your hands” (he casually pushes the cards towards him and adds the three palmed cards), “and hold them high above your head so everyone can see them? Thank you. Now, since your packet has seventeen cards, this other one” (we're assuming a piquet pack is being used) “should have fifteen. Let’s check if you counted correctly.” The performer counts aloud the cards from the remaining packet, card by card, on the table. He then takes the pile in his left hand, squaring the cards together, which allows him to palm away the top three cards with his right hand. He continues, “Fifteen cards here—and—how many did you say, sir?—yes, seventeen, which the gentleman holds, makes thirty-two. Exactly right. Now, can someone else please take these fifteen cards?” He hands them over with his left hand, simultaneously dropping the three palmed cards into the profonde on his right side and immediately raising his hand to show it empty. “Now, ladies and gentlemen, I’ll demonstrate a fascinating phenomenon, which is even more impressive because, as you’ll all verify, since the cards were counted, they haven’t been in my possession for even a moment but have been independently held. Will you, sir” (addressing the holder of the second packet), “hold up the cards so I can touch them with my wand? I just have to strike the cards with my wand once, twice, three times, and with each strike, a card will jump from the packet you’re holding and join the seventeen cards in the other pile. As this trick relies purely on sheer force of will, without any equipment or skill, I'd appreciate it if you all could combine your willpower with mine, as it will make this much easier for me. At each wand touch, please, everyone present, mentally command a card to move as I’ve described. Are you all ready? Then let’s give it a try. One, two, THREE! Did you see the cards move? I saw them clearly, but maybe my vision is sharper than yours. Would each gentleman holding the cards be kind enough to count how many are in his stack?” They do so, and it turns out that one has twenty cards while the other has only twelve.

It is obvious that the two packets now collectively contain duplicates of three cards, while three others are missing; but it is extremely unlikely that any one will suspect this, or seek to verify the constitution of the pack.

It’s clear that the two packets now together have duplicates of three cards, while three others are missing; however, it’s very unlikely that anyone will notice this or try to check the makeup of the pack.

To allow several Persons each to draw a Card, and the Pack having been Shuffled, to make another Card drawn haphazard Change successively into each of those first chosen.—Invite a person to draw a card. This first card need not be forced, as it is not essential for you to know what card it is, so long as you afterward keep it in sight. When the card is returned to the pack, insert the little finger under it, and make the pass in order to bring it to the bottom. Make the first of the false shuffles (see page 23), and leave it at the bottom. Again make the pass to bring it to88 the middle of the pack, and force the same card on a second and again on a third person, each time making a false shuffle, and leaving the chosen card, which we will call a, ultimately in the hands of the last person who drew.E When you have concluded the last shuffle, which (the card not now being in the pack) may be a genuine one, you offer the pack to some person who has not yet drawn, and allow him to draw any card he pleases, which second card we will call b. You open the pack, and ask the persons holding the two cards to replace them one on the other; that first chosen, a, being placed last—i.e., uppermost. You make the pass to bring them to the top, and palm them, and then immediately hand the pack to be shuffled by one of the company. This being done, you replace them on the top of the pack, and, spreading the cards, and appearing to reflect a moment, pick out by the backs as many cards as there have been persons who drew (i.e., four) including among them the two cards a and b. Exhibiting the four cards, you ask each drawer to say, without naming his card, whether his card is among them. The reply is, of course, in the affirmative. Each person who drew, seeing his own card among those shown, naturally assumes that the remaining cards are those of the other drawers; and the remainder of the audience, finding the drawers satisfied, are fully convinced that the cards shown are the four which were drawn. You now replace the cards in different parts of the pack, placing the two actually drawn in the middle, and secretly make the pass to bring them to the top. Then, spreading the cards, you invite another person to draw, which you allow him to do wherever he chooses. When he has done so, you request him to name aloud his card, which we will call c. Holding the card aloft, you ask each of the former drawers in succession, “Is this your card?” To which each answers, “No.” After having received this answer for the last time, you “change” the card by the first method (see page 28) for the top card. You now have the card a (the one drawn several times) in your hand, while b has become the top card, and c, which you have just exhibited, is at the bottom. You continue, before showing a, “You are all agreed that this is not your89 card; you had better not be too sure. I will ask you one by one. You, sir,” addressing the first drawer, “are you quite sure this is not your card?” He is obliged to own that it now is his card. “Pardon me,” you say, breathing gently on the back of the card, “it may have been so a moment ago, but now it is this lady’s,” exhibiting it to the second drawer, who also acknowledges it as her card. To the third person you say, “I think you drew a card, did you not? May I ask you to blow upon the back of this card! It has changed again, you see, for now it is your card.” The card having been again recognized, you continue, “There was no one else, I think,” at the same moment again making the change by the first method, so that a is now at bottom and b in your hand. The person who drew b will, no doubt, remind you that you have not yet shown him his card. You profess to have quite forgotten him, and, feigning to be a little embarrassed, ask what his card was. He names it accordingly, upon which you ask him to blow upon the card you hold, and, turning it over, show that it has now turned into that card. Then again making the change, you remark, “Everybody has certainly had his card now.” Then, yourself blowing upon the card you hold, which is now an indifferent one, you show it, and remark, “You observe that now it is nobody’s card.”

Allow several people to each draw a card from a shuffled deck, and then take turns changing one card into each of the initially chosen ones.—Invite someone to draw a card. This first card doesn't have to be forced since you don't need to know what it is, as long as you keep it visible. When the card is returned to the deck, place your little finger underneath it and perform the move to bring it to the bottom. Do the first false shuffle (see page 23), leaving it at the bottom. Again, perform the move to bring it to88 the middle of the deck, and force the same card on a second person, then on a third, each time doing a false shuffle and keeping the chosen card, which we will call a, in the hands of the last person who drew.E After the last shuffle, which (with the card no longer in the deck) can be genuine, present the deck to someone who hasn't drawn yet and let them choose any card they like, which we'll call b. Open the deck and ask the people holding the two cards to stack them on top of each other, placing the first card a last—i.e., on the top. Perform the move to bring them to the top, palm them, and then immediately give the deck to one of the group to shuffle. Once that's done, place them back on top of the deck, spread the cards out, and while pretending to think for a moment, pick out as many cards as there are people who drew (i.e., four), including the two cards a and b. Show the four cards and ask each person who drew to say, without naming their card, whether their card is among them. Of course, the answer will be yes. Each person who drew will see their own card among those shown and will naturally assume that the remaining cards belong to the other drawers; the rest of the audience, seeing the drawers satisfied, will be completely convinced that the cards shown are the four that were drawn. Now, mix the cards back into different parts of the deck, placing the two cards that were actually drawn in the middle, and secretly perform the move to bring them back to the top. Then, spread the cards and invite another person to draw wherever they want. Once they've drawn, ask them to say their card out loud, which we will call c. Holding up the card, ask each of the former drawers in turn, “Is this your card?” Each will respond, “No.” After getting this answer from the last person, you “change” the card using the first method (see page 28) for the top card. Now you have card a (the one drawn several times) in your hand, while b has become the top card, and c, which you just revealed, is at the bottom. You continue, before showing a, “You all agree that this isn’t your89 card; you might want to rethink that. I’ll ask you one by one. You, sir,” addressing the first drawer, “are you really sure this isn't your card?” He has to admit that it actually is. “Excuse me,” you say, gently breathing on the back of the card, “it may have been a moment ago, but now it belongs to this lady,” showing it to the second drawer, who also recognizes it as hers. To the third person, you say, “I believe you drew a card, didn’t you? Could you please blow on the back of this card? It's changed again, you see, because now it's your card.” After it’s acknowledged again, you continue, “I think there is no one else,” while at the same time again making the change by the first method, so that a is now at the bottom and b is in your hand. The person who drew b will likely remind you that you haven't shown them their card yet. You act as if you've completely forgotten and, pretending to be a little flustered, ask what their card was. They name it, and then you ask them to blow on the card you’re holding, and when you turn it over, you show that it has now changed into that card. Then, after making the change again, you comment, “Everyone has definitely seen their card now.” Then, blowing on the card you’re holding, which is now just a random one, you show it and say, “You can see that now it’s nobody’s card.”

E The different drawers should be persons tolerably far apart, as it is essential that they should not discover that they have all drawn the same card.

E The various drawers should be people reasonably spaced out, as it’s crucial that they don’t find out they’ve all picked the same card.

In this trick, as in every other which mainly depends upon forcing a given card, there is always the possibility that some person may, either by accident or from a malicious desire to embarrass you, insist upon drawing some other card. This, however, must not discourage you. In the first place, when you have once thoroughly acquired the knack of forcing, the victim will, nine times out of ten, draw the card you desire, even though doing his utmost to exercise, as he supposes, an absolutely free choice; and the risk may be still further diminished by offering the cards to persons whose physiognomy designates them as likely to be good-naturedly easy in their selection. But if such a contretemps should occur in the trick we have just described, it is very easily met. You will remember that the first card drawn is not forced, but freely chosen. It is well to make the most of this fact, and for that purpose, before beginning the trick, to offer the cards to be shuffled by several persons in succession, and specially to draw the attention of the audience to the fact that you90 cannot possibly have any card in view. When the card is chosen, offer to allow the drawer, if he has the slightest suspicion that you know what it is, to return it, and take another. He may or may not accept the offer, but your evident indifference as to the card chosen will make the audience the less likely to suspect you afterwards of desiring to put forward any particular card. If, notwithstanding, a wrong card is drawn the second time, leave it in the hand of the drawer, and at once offer the cards to another person, and again endeavour to force the proper card, a, and let the wrong card take the place of b in the foregoing description. In the very unlikely event of a second wrong card being drawn, leave that also for the moment in the hands of the drawer, and let that card take the place of c in the finish of the trick.

In this trick, like in any other that relies on forcing a specific card, there's always a chance that someone might, either accidentally or out of a desire to make things awkward for you, choose a different card. However, you shouldn’t let this discourage you. First, once you’ve really mastered the technique of forcing, the person will, nine times out of ten, pick the card you want, even while believing they’re making a completely free choice; and the chances can be even further reduced by offering the cards to people who seem friendly and easygoing. But if an unexpected turn of events happens in the trick we just explained, it’s easy to handle. Remember that the first card drawn isn’t forced but chosen freely. It's beneficial to emphasize this point, so before starting the trick, have several people shuffle the cards one after another, and especially draw the audience's attention to the fact that you can’t possibly have any card in mind. When a card is picked, offer to let the person who drew it return it and choose again if they even slightly suspect that you know which card it is. They might accept or decline the offer, but your clear nonchalance about the chosen card will make the audience less likely to think you’re trying to push any particular card. If, despite this, a wrong card is picked the second time, leave it in the drawer’s hand and immediately offer the cards to someone else, trying again to force the correct card, taking card a, and letting the wrong card replace b in the previous description. In the very unlikely case that a second wrong card is drawn, also leave that one with the drawer for now, allowing that card to take the place of c at the end of the trick.

To make Four Aces change to Four Kings, and Four Kings to Four Aces.—This very effective trick is performed by the aid of four cards, which are so prepared as to appear aces on the one side and kings on the other. To make them, take four ordinary aces and four ordinary kings, and peel off half the thickness of each card. This may be easily done by splitting one corner of the card with a sharp penknife, when the remainder can be pulled apart without difficulty. The cards being thus reduced in thickness, paste back to back the king and ace of each suit, placing them in a press or under a heavy weight, that they may dry perfectly smooth and flat. Better still, entrust the process to some person who is accustomed to mounting photographs, when, at a trifling cost, you will have your double-faced cards thoroughly well made.

Change Four Aces to Four Kings, and Four Kings to Four Aces.—This clever trick is done with four cards that are prepared to show aces on one side and kings on the other. To create them, take four standard aces and four standard kings, and carefully shave off half the thickness of each card. You can easily do this by slicing one corner of the card with a sharp knife, then pulling the rest apart without much effort. Once the cards are thinner, glue the king and ace of each suit back to back, and place them in a press or under a heavy weight to dry flat and smooth. Even better, have someone experienced in mounting photographs do it for you, and for a small fee, you'll get your double-sided cards made perfectly.

Place these four cards beforehand in different parts of the pack, the “ace” side downwards, i.e., in the same direction as the faces of the other cards. Place the genuine aces face downwards on the top of the pack, which being thus disposed, you are ready to begin the trick.

Place these four cards in different parts of the deck ahead of time, with the “ace” side facing down, meaning in the same direction as the other cards' faces. Place the real aces face down on top of the deck. With this set up, you are ready to start the trick.

Take the pack in your hand, face uppermost. Remark, “For this trick I want the aces and kings,” and pick out, one by one, the real kings and the sham aces. Lay these cards on the table, the kings face upwards, and the prepared cards with the “ace” side uppermost. Draw the attention of the audience to these cards, and91 meanwhile make the pass so as to bring the two halves of the pack face to face, when the four genuine aces will (unknown to the audience) be at the lower end of the pack. Place the four kings ostentatiously upon the opposite end of the pack, i.e., that which is for the time being uppermost.

Take the deck in your hand, face up. Say, “For this trick, I want the aces and kings,” and take out the actual kings and the fake aces one by one. Place these cards on the table, with the kings facing up and the prepared cards showing the “ace” side up. Draw the audience's attention to these cards, and while you do that, make the pass to bring the two halves of the deck face to face, so the four real aces will, without the audience realizing it, be at the bottom of the deck. Place the four kings prominently on the opposite end of the deck, meaning that which is currently on top.

You now borrow a hat. Placing the pack for a moment on the table, and taking the four false aces in one hand and the hat in the other, place the aces on the table, and cover them with the hat, at the same moment turning them over. Then taking the pack in your hand, once more show the kings, and replacing them, say, “I shall now order these four kings to pass under the hat, and the four aces to return to the pack. I have only to touch the cards with my wand, and say, ‘Pass,’ and the change is accomplished.” As you touch the cards with the wand, turn over the pack (see page 37), the bringing together of the hands and the gentle tap with the wand effectually covering the slight movement of the hand. If you do not use the wand, a semi-circular sweep of the hand which holds the cards in the direction of the hat, as you say “Pass,” will answer the same purpose.

You now borrow a hat. After placing the deck down for a moment on the table, take the four fake aces in one hand and the hat in the other, lay the aces on the table, and cover them with the hat while flipping them over at the same time. Next, take the deck in your hand, show the kings again, and put them back, saying, “Now I’ll command these four kings to go under the hat, and the four aces to go back into the deck. I just need to touch the cards with my wand and say ‘Pass,’ and the change will happen.” As you touch the cards with the wand, flip over the deck (see page 37), bringing your hands together and gently tapping the wand, effectively hiding the small movement of your hand. If you don’t use the wand, a semi-circular sweep of the hand that holds the cards toward the hat as you say “Pass” will achieve the same effect.

Having shown that the cards have changed according to command, you may, by repeating the process, cause the cards to return to their original positions. It is better not to carry the trick further than this, or some of the audience may possibly ask to be allowed to examine the cards, which would be embarrassing.

Having demonstrated that the cards have been rearranged as instructed, you can repeat the process to make the cards go back to their original positions. It's best not to take the trick further than this, or some audience members might request to examine the cards, which could lead to an awkward situation.

After the trick is over, make the pass to bring the pack right again, and then get the double-faced cards out of the way as soon as possible. The best way to do this, without exciting suspicion, is to take them up in the right hand, and apparently turn them over and leave them on the top of the pack, but in reality palm them, and slip them into your pocket, or elsewhere out of sight. After having done this, you may safely leave the pack within reach of the audience, who, if they examine it, finding none but ordinary cards, will be more than ever puzzled as to your modus operandi.

After the trick is done, make the move to bring the deck back to its original state, and then get rid of the double-faced cards as quickly as you can. The best way to do this, without raising any suspicion, is to pick them up with your right hand, pretend to flip them over, and place them back on top of the deck, but actually hide them in your palm and slip them into your pocket or somewhere out of sight. Once you've done that, you can safely leave the deck within reach of the audience, who, if they check it, will only find regular cards and will be even more confused about your modus operandi.

Having made Four Packets of Cards with an Ace at the bottom of each, to bring all Four Aces into whichever Packet the Company may choose.—Take the four aces, or any92 other four cards of equal value, from the pack, and throw them face upwards on the table. While the company’s attention is being drawn to them, make the pass, as in the last trick, so as to bring the two halves of the pack face to face. The company, having satisfied themselves that the four cards shown are really the four aces, and are without preparation, take them up, and replace them face downwards upon the top of the pack, which you hold in the left hand, remarking, “I am going to show you a trick with these four aces. I shall first place them on the table, and put three indifferent cards on each of them.” Meanwhile, get the thumb of the left hand in position for the “turn over,” and the instant that you have drawn off the top card with the right hand, turn over the pack, which the movement of the hands in removing the top card will enable you to do without attracting notice. This top card is really an ace, and you may therefore show it, as if by accident, while placing it on the table. Lay it face downwards, and then place three cards from the end you have just brought uppermost (which the audience will believe to be the other three aces), in a line with it on the table. Next place three more cards, taken from the same end of the pack, upon each of the three cards last dealt. When you come to that first dealt (the genuine ace), before dealing the three cards upon it, you must again turn over the pack, thereby bringing the three aces on the top. You thus have upon the table four packets of four cards each, one packet consisting of aces only, and the remaining three packets of indifferent cards; but the audience imagine that the aces are divided, and that there is one at the foot of each packet. You now ask any one to touch two out of the four packets. The two packets which he touches may include, or may not include, the one containing the four aces. Whichever be the case, take up and put aside the two which do not include the packet of aces, and remark, “We will place these aside,” an observation which will be equally appropriate whether those were the two touched or not. Next ask the same or another person to touch one of the two remaining packets, and in like manner add that one which does not contain the aces to the two already set aside. Placing these three packets on the table, request some one of the company to place his hand upon them, and hold them tightly; then, taking the remaining packet yourself, observe.93 “You have three aces, and I have only one; but by virtue of my magic power I shall compel those three aces to leave your hand, and come to mine, I just touch the back of your hand, so” (touching it with the cards you hold), “and say, ‘Pass.’ The change is already accomplished. Here are all four aces. Please to examine your own cards, when you will find you have not a single ace left. Let me remind you that the audience chose, and not I, which of the four packets you should take, and which one I should retain.”F

I've made four packets of cards, each with an Ace at the bottom, so all four Aces can go into the packet that the audience picks.—Take the four Aces, or any four cards of equal value, from the deck, and lay them face up on the table. While everyone is focused on them, perform the move from the last trick to bring the two halves of the deck face to face. Once the audience is convinced that the four cards shown are indeed the four Aces and not tampered with, pick them up and place them face down on top of the deck held in your left hand, saying, “I’m going to show you a trick with these four Aces. First, I’ll set them on the table and put three regular cards on each of them.” Meanwhile, position your left thumb for the “turn over,” and the moment you draw off the top card with your right hand, flip over the deck, which you can do discreetly as you remove the top card. This top card is actually an Ace, so you can show it casually while placing it on the table. Lay it face down, and then place three cards from the end that is now on top (which the audience thinks are the other three Aces) in a row with it on the table. Next, place three more cards from the same end of the deck onto each of the three cards you just laid down. When you get to that first card (the genuine Ace), before placing the three cards on it, you need to turn over the deck again, bringing the three Aces to the top. This way, you have four packets of four cards each on the table, one packet containing only Aces and the other three consisting of regular cards; however, the audience believes the Aces are mixed and that one is at the bottom of each packet. Now ask someone to point to any two of the four packets. The two packets they choose might include or not include the one with the four Aces. No matter what happens, set aside the two packets that do not have the Aces and say, “We’ll put these aside,” which is a fitting comment regardless of their choice. Next, ask the same or another person to select one of the two remaining packets, and again add the one that doesn’t contain the Aces to the two already set aside. Place these three packets on the table, ask someone from the group to place their hand on them and hold them tightly; then, taking the last packet for yourself, say, “You have three Aces, and I only have one; but with my magical power, I will make those three Aces leave your hand and come to mine.” I simply touch the back of your hand like this (touching it with the cards you hold) and say, ‘Pass.’ The change is complete. Here are all four Aces. Please check your cards, and you’ll see you don’t have a single Ace left. Remember, it was the audience who chose, not me, which packets you should take and which one I should keep.”F

F It will be observed that this trick is terminated after the manner described at page 45, to which the reader is recommended to refer, as the above description will be more clearly intelligible by the aid of the further explanations there given.

F You’ll notice that this trick concludes as mentioned on page 45, which we suggest you check out for clarity, since the description above will make more sense with the additional explanations provided there.

There is another method of performing this trick, which dispenses with the necessity of “turning over” the pack. In this case, as you place the four aces on the top of the pack, you insert the little finger of the left hand under the three uppermost, and make the pass to bring these three to the bottom, still, however, keeping the finger between them and the rest of the pack. You deal out the four top cards (supposed to be the four aces), as above, and three others on each of the three non-aces. You next ask some person to draw any three cards (taking care not to let him draw one of the three at the bottom), and place them at the top of the pack. The moment he has done so, you again make the pass, thus bringing the three aces upon them. You then say, taking off (without showing) the three top cards, “Now I will take these three cards, freely drawn from the middle of the pack, and place them here on this last ace.” From this point the course of the trick is the same as already described.

There’s another way to do this trick that doesn’t require “turning over” the deck. In this method, as you place the four aces on top of the deck, you slide your little finger of the left hand under the three cards on top and do the pass to move those three to the bottom, while keeping your finger between them and the rest of the deck. You deal out the top four cards (which are supposed to be the four aces) as described above, and then deal three more on each of the three non-aces. Next, you ask someone to pick any three cards (making sure they don’t choose one of the three at the bottom) and place them on top of the deck. Once they’ve done that, you perform the pass again to bring the three aces on top of their cards. Then you say, while removing the three top cards (without showing them), “Now I’ll take these three cards, freely chosen from the middle of the deck, and place them here on this last ace.” From this point, the trick continues as previously described.

To Change the Four Aces, held tightly by a Person, into Four Indifferent Cards.—This is a most brilliant trick, and puzzles even adepts in card-conjuring. In combination with the “Shower of Aces,” which next follows, it was one of the principal feats of the Elder Conus, and subsequently of the celebrated Comte.

To transform the Four Aces, firmly grasped by a person, into four random cards.—This is a really impressive trick and confuses even skilled card magicians. When combined with the “Shower of Aces,” which comes next, it was one of the main tricks of the Elder Conus and later of the famous Comte.

The trick is performed as follows:—You begin by announcing that you require the assistance of some gentleman who never believes anything that he is told. The audience generally take this as a joke,94 but for the purpose of this trick it is really rather an advantage to have the assistance of a person who will take nothing for granted, and will be satisfied with nothing short of ocular demonstration of any fact which you desire him to concede. Some little fun may be made in the selection, but a volunteer having at last been approved of, you request him to step forward to your table. Selecting from the pack the four aces, you ask him to say aloud what cards those are, at the same time holding them up that all may see them. Then laying the aces face upwards on the table, you hand him the remainder of the cards, and ask him to ascertain and state to the company, whether there is any peculiarity about the cards, and whether, in particular, there are any other aces in the pack. His reply is in the negative. You then ask whether any other person would like to examine the pack. All being satisfied, you take the pack, face downwards, in your left hand, and picking up the four aces with the right, place them on the top, at the same moment slightly ruffling the cards. Then taking the aces one by one (without showing them) you place them face downwards on the table. Addressing the person assisting you, you say, “I place these four aces on the table. You admit that they are the four aces.” Your victim, not having seen the faces of the cards since they were replaced on the pack, and having noticed the slight sound produced by your ruffling the cards, will, in all probability, say that he does not admit anything of the sort. “Why,” you reply, “you have only just seen them; but I’ll show them to you again, if you like.” Turning them face upwards, you show that the four cards really are the aces, and again replace them on the pack, ruffle the cards, and deal out the four aces face downwards as before. You again ask your assistant whether he is certain this time that the four cards on the table are the aces. He may possibly be still incredulous, but if he professes himself satisfied, you ask him what he will bet that these cards are really the aces, and that you have not conjured them away already. He will naturally be afraid to bet, and you remark, “Ah, I could tell by the expression of your countenance that you were not quite satisfied. I’m afraid you are sadly wanting in faith, but as I can’t perform the trick, for the sake of my own reputation, until you are thoroughly convinced, I will show you the cards once more.” This you do, and again replace them on the pack,95 but before doing so, slip the little finger of the left hand under the top card of the pack. Again take off the aces with the finger and thumb of the right hand, carrying with them at the same time this top card. Then with a careless gesture of the right hand toward the audience, so as to show them the face of the undermost card (the one you have just added), you continue, “I really can’t imagine what makes you so incredulous. Here are the aces” (you replace the five cards on the pack)—“I take them one by one, so, and place them on the table. Surely there is no possibility of sleight-of-hand here. Are you all satisfied that these are really the aces now?” The audience having noted, as you intended them to do, that the fifth or bottom card was not an ace, naturally conclude that other cards have been by some means substituted for the aces, and when you ask the question for the last time, you are met by a general shout of “No!” You say, with an injured expression, “Really, ladies and gentlemen, if you are all such unbelievers, I may as well retire at once. I should hope that, at least, you will have the grace to apologize for your unfounded suspicions.” Then, turning to the person assisting you, you continue, “Sir, as every act of mine appears to be an object of suspicion, perhaps you will kindly show the company that those are the aces, and replace them yourself on the top of the pack.”

The trick is done like this: You start by saying you need the help of a gentleman who doesn’t believe anything he’s told. The audience usually takes this as a joke, but for this trick, it's actually helpful to have someone who questions everything and won’t accept anything without visual proof. You might have a bit of fun picking someone, but once you find a volunteer, you ask him to come to your table. You pick the four aces from the deck and ask him to announce what cards they are while you hold them up for everyone to see. Then you lay the aces face-up on the table and hand him the rest of the cards, asking him to check if there’s anything unusual about them, specifically if there are any other aces in the pack. He’ll say no. Then you ask if anyone else wants to look at the pack. Once everyone is satisfied, you take the pack, face-down, in your left hand, and pick up the four aces with your right hand, placing them on top while slightly riffling the cards. Then, taking the aces one by one (without showing them), you place them face-down on the table. Turning to your assistant, you say, “I’m placing these four aces on the table. You agree they’re the four aces.” Your victim, not having seen the faces of the cards since you replaced them on the pack and hearing the sound of you riffling the cards, will probably say that he doesn’t confirm that. “Why,” you respond, “you just saw them; but I can show them to you again if you want.” You turn them face-up to prove they really are the aces, then replace them on the pack, riffle the cards, and deal out the four aces face-down again. You ask your assistant again if he’s sure that the four cards on the table are the aces. He might still be skeptical, but if he claims to be satisfied, you ask him what he’ll bet that these cards are really the aces and that you haven’t made them disappear already. Naturally, he’ll hesitate to bet, and you say, “Ah, I could tell from your face that you’re not completely convinced. I’m afraid you lack faith, but I can’t perform the trick for my reputation until you’re fully convinced, so I’ll show you the cards once more.” You do this and replace them on the pack, but before you do, you slip the tip of your left pinky under the top card of the pack. Again, you take the aces with your right hand’s finger and thumb, grabbing the top card as well. Then, with a casual gesture towards the audience, showing them the face of the bottom card (the one you just added), you continue, “I really can’t understand why you’re so skeptical. Here are the aces” (you place the five cards on the pack)—“I take them one by one and place them on the table. Surely, there’s no sleight of hand here. Are you all convinced these are indeed the aces now?” The audience, having noticed that the fifth card wasn’t an ace, naturally thinks that somehow other cards have been swapped for the aces, and when you ask one last time, they shout in unison, “No!” You respond with a hurt expression, “Honestly, ladies and gentlemen, if you’re all such nonbelievers, I might as well leave right now. I do hope you’ll have the decency to apologize for your unfounded doubts.” Turning to your assistant, you add, “Sir, since every one of my actions seems to raise suspicion, perhaps you could kindly show the audience that those are the aces and replace them yourself on top of the pack.”

This he does. But during the course of the above little discussion, you have taken the opportunity to count off, and palm in your right hand, the five top cards of the pack. It is hardly necessary to observe that while doing this, you must scrupulously refrain from looking at your hands. The mode of counting is to push forward the cards one by one with the thumb, and to check them with the third finger, of the left hand. A very little practice will enable you to count off any number of cards by feel, in this manner, with the greatest ease. When the aces are replaced on the top of the pack, you transfer the pack from the left to the right hand, thus bringing the palmed cards above them, then placing the whole pack on the table, face downwards, inquire, “Will you be good enough to tell me where the aces are now?” The answer is generally very confident, “On the top of the pack.” Without taking the pack in your hand, you take off, one by one, the four top cards, and lay them face downwards on the table, as before; then taking up the fifth card and exhibiting it to the company,96 observe, “You see there are no more aces left, but if you like you can look through the pack.” So saying, you take up the cards, and run them rapidly over with their faces towards the spectators, taking care, however, not to expose either of the five at the top, four of which are the genuine aces. Then, addressing your assistant, you say, “The company being at last satisfied, perhaps you will be good enough to place your hand on those four cards, and hold them as tightly as possible.” Then, holding the pack in the left hand, you take between the first finger and thumb of the right hand the top card of the pack, being the only one left of the five you palmed and placed over the aces, and say, “Now I am going to take four indifferent cards one after the other, and exchange them for the four aces in this gentleman’s hand. Observe the simplicity of the process. I take the card that first comes to hand” (here you show the face of the card that you hold, which we will suppose to be the seven of diamonds), “I don’t return it to the pack, even for a moment, but merely touch the hand with it, and it becomes the ace of (say) spades” (which you show it to be). At the words “return it to the pack,” you move the card with what is taken to be merely an indicative gesture, towards the pack, and at the same instant “change” it by the third method (see page 30) for the top card of the pack, which is one of the aces.

This he does. But during the discussion above, you took the chance to count and secretly hold the five top cards of the deck in your right hand. It’s important to note that while doing this, you must avoid looking at your hands. To count, push the cards forward one by one with your thumb and check them with the third finger of your left hand. With a little practice, you’ll be able to count off any number of cards by feel with ease. When the aces are put back on top of the pack, you switch the pack from your left hand to your right hand, bringing the palmed cards above them, and place the entire pack face down on the table, asking, “Could you tell me where the aces are now?” The response is usually very confident: “On the top of the pack.” Without actually holding the pack, you remove the four top cards one by one and lay them face down on the table, just like before. Then you pick up the fifth card, show it to everyone, and say, “You see, there are no more aces left, but feel free to look through the pack.” While saying this, you gather the cards and quickly fan them out with the faces towards the audience, making sure not to reveal either of the five cards at the top, four of which are the real aces. Then, addressing your assistant, you say, “Now that everyone is satisfied, could you place your hand on those four cards and hold them as tightly as you can?” While holding the pack in your left hand, you use your right hand’s thumb and first finger to take the top card, which is the only one left from the five you palmed and placed over the aces, and say, “Now, I’m going to take four random cards one by one and exchange them for the four aces in this gentleman’s hand. Notice how simple this process is. I take the card that comes first” (here you show the face of the card you’re holding, which we’ll say is the seven of diamonds), “I don’t return it to the pack, even for a second, but just touch his hand with it, and it becomes the ace of (say) spades” (which you then show it to be). When you say “return it to the pack,” you move the card in a way that appears to be merely a gesture toward the pack and at the same instant “change” it using the third method (see page 30) for the top card of the pack, which is one of the aces.

You now have the seven of diamonds at the top of the pack, with the remaining three aces immediately following it. You must not show this seven of diamonds a second time, and it is therefore necessary to get it out of the way. The neatest way of doing this is as follows:—You remark, “To show you that I take the cards just as they come, I will give them a shuffle,” which you do as indicated for the first of the “false shuffles” (see page 23), subject to the modification following. Pass into the right hand first the top card (the seven of diamonds) alone, and upon this card pass the next three, which are the three aces, then the rest of the cards indifferently. When all the cards are thus passed into the right hand, shuffle them again anyhow, but take care to conclude by bringing the four lowest cards to the top; you will now have the three aces uppermost, and the seven of diamonds in the fourth place. Taking off the top card, and drawing it sharply over the hand of the person assisting, you show that it also is an ace, and in like manner with the next card, making, if you choose,97 a false shuffle between. After the third ace has been shown, make a false shuffle, and finally leave at the top the last ace, with one card above it. This may be effected by bringing up from the bottom in concluding the shuffle the two bottom cards, instead of the last (the ace) only. Taking the top card between the thumb and first finger of the right hand, and showing it with apparent carelessness, so as to give the company the opportunity of remarking that it is not an ace, you replace it on the pack for an instant, saying, “We have had three aces, I think. Which is it that is wanting?” Here you glance down at the aces on the table. “Oh! the ace of diamonds. Then the card that I hold must change to the ace of diamonds.” You have meanwhile effected the change, and turning up the card you hold, you show that it is the ace of diamonds.

You now have the seven of diamonds on top of the deck, with the other three aces right underneath it. You can't show this seven of diamonds again, so you need to move it out of the way. The easiest way to do this is like this: you say, “To show you that I take the cards as they come, I’ll give them a shuffle,” and then you shuffle as described in the first of the “false shuffles” (see page 23), with one change. First, move the top card (the seven of diamonds) into your right hand by itself, then place the next three cards (the three aces) on top of it, and then throw the rest of the cards in randomly. Once all the cards are in your right hand, shuffle them however you like, but make sure to finish by bringing the four lowest cards to the top; you’ll now have the three aces on top, and the seven of diamonds in fourth place. Take the top card and quickly draw it over the hand of the person helping you, showing that it’s also an ace, and do the same with the next card, optionally making a false shuffle in between. After you’ve shown the third ace, make another false shuffle, and leave the last ace on top with one card above it. You can do this by bringing up the two bottom cards while finishing the shuffle instead of just bringing up the ace. Holding the top card between your thumb and index finger of your right hand, show it casually so that everyone can see it’s not an ace, then place it back on the deck for a moment, saying, “We’ve had three aces, I think. Which one are we missing?” Then glance down at the aces on the table. “Oh! The ace of diamonds. So the card I’m holding must change to the ace of diamonds.” In the meantime, you’ve made the change, and when you turn up the card you’re holding, show that it is the ace of diamonds.

You may, if you please, use the first instead of the third method of making the “change” in performing this trick, but the first method demands a higher degree of dexterity to make it equally deceptive; and the movement used in the third method has in this instance the advantage of appearing to be the natural accompaniment of the words of the performer.

You can choose to use the first method instead of the third method for making the “change” when performing this trick, but the first method requires more skill to make it just as convincing. The movement used in the third method has the advantage of looking like a natural part of the performer’s words in this case.

The Shower of Aces.—This trick forms a very effective sequel to that last described, or may with equal facility be made to follow many other card tricks. To perform it, the first essential is the possession of a pack of cards similar in size and pattern to that you have in general use, but consisting of aces only. You can purchase such a pack at most of the conjuring depôts, or you may, without much difficulty, manufacture one for yourself. If you decide upon the latter course, you must first procure thirty or forty blank cards backed with the requisite pattern. These you can transform into aces in two ways. The first is, to split three or four ordinary cards of each suit, and, after peeling off, as thin as possible, the face of each, carefully cut out the pips, and paste one in the centre of each of your blank cards. This process, however, takes a considerable time; and, when the sham aces are collected in a pack, the extra thickness of the paper in the centre of each produces an objectionable bulge. The better plan is to procure a stencil-plate representing the figures of a club, heart, and diamond, which will enable you to produce98 any number of the aces of those suits, using Indian ink for the clubs, and vermilion, mixed with a little size, for the hearts and diamonds. The ace of spades you must dispense with, but this is of little consequence to the effect of the trick.

The Shower of Aces.—This trick is a great follow-up to the last one described or can easily follow various other card tricks. To perform it, the first thing you need is a deck of cards that matches the size and design of your usual cards, but it should consist only of aces. You can buy such a deck at most magic supply stores, or you can make one yourself without much trouble. If you choose to make one, you’ll need thirty or forty blank cards backed with the right design. You can turn these into aces in two ways. The first way is to take three or four regular cards from each suit, peel the face off as thinly as you can, carefully cut out the pips, and glue one in the center of each of your blank cards. However, this method takes a lot of time, and when you stack the fake aces, the extra thickness of the paper in the center of each card creates an undesirable bulge. A better approach is to use a stencil plate with the designs of a club, heart, and diamond, which lets you create as many aces of those suits as you need, using Indian ink for the clubs and vermilion mixed with a bit of size for the hearts and diamonds. You can skip the ace of spades, but that doesn't affect the trick’s overall impact.

You must have these cards close at hand, in such a position as to enable you to add them instantly, and without attracting observation, to the pack you have been using. If you use the regular conjuror’s table, before described, you may place your pack of aces on the servante. If you do not use such a table, you may place them in one of your pochettes. In either case, you will have little difficulty in reaching them at the right moment, and placing them on the top of the ordinary pack, holding the whole in your left hand, but keeping the little finger between. Having done this, you say to the person who has been assisting you (in continuation of the trick you have just performed), “You appear to be fond of aces, sir. How many would you like?” He is fully convinced, having previously examined the pack, that you have only the ordinary four but, from a desire to put your powers to an extreme test, he may possibly name a larger number—say, seven. “Seven!” you reply; “that is rather unreasonable, seeing there are only four in the pack. However, we will make some more. Do you know how to make aces? No? Then I will show you. Like all these things, it’s simplicity itself, when you once know it. Will you oblige me by blowing upon the pack?” which you hold just under his nose for that purpose. He does so, and you deliberately count off and give to him the seven top cards, which all prove to be aces. You then say, “Perhaps you would like some more. You have only to blow again. Come, how many will you have?” He again blows on the pack, and you give him the number desired. While he is examining them, you cover the pack for a moment with your right hand, and palm a dozen or so of the remaining aces. Then remarking, “You blew a little too strongly that time. You blew a lot of aces into your waistcoat,” you thrust your hand into the breast of his waistcoat, and bring out three or four of the palmed cards, leaving the remainder inside; then pull out two or three more, dropping them on the floor, so as to scatter them about and make them appear as numerous as possible. You then say, “There seem to be a good many more there99 yet. Perhaps you will take them out yourself.” While he is doing so, you palm in the right hand all the remaining aces. When he professes to have taken out all, you say, “Are you quite sure that you have no more aces about you? You blew very hard, you know. I really think you must have some more. Will you allow me?” Then, standing on his right, you place your right hand just below his eyes, and spring the remaining aces from it, in the manner indicated for springing the cards from hand to hand (see page 37), the effect being exactly as if a shower of cards flew from his nose.

You need to keep these cards nearby, positioned so you can quickly add them to the pack you’re using without anyone noticing. If you're using the standard conjurer's table mentioned earlier, you can put your aces on the servante. If you don’t have that table, you can put them in one of your pochettes. In either case, it should be easy to grab them at the right moment and place them on top of the regular pack, holding everything in your left hand while keeping your little finger in between. After doing this, you say to the person who helped you (continuing from the trick you just did), “You seem to like aces, sir. How many do you want?” He’s convinced, having checked the pack earlier, that you only have the usual four, but he might want to challenge you and say a larger number—like seven. “Seven!” you respond; “that’s a bit much since there are only four in the pack. But let’s make some more. Do you know how to create aces? No? Then I’ll show you. Like all these tricks, it’s very simple once you know how. Would you mind blowing on the pack?” which you hold close to his face for that purpose. He does, and you then count off and hand him the seven top cards, all of which are aces. You follow up with, “Maybe you’d like some more. Just blow again. So, how many do you want?” He blows on the pack again, and you give him the number he asks for. While he’s examining them, you cover the pack briefly with your right hand and palm about a dozen of the remaining aces. Then you say, “You blew a little too hard that time. You must have blown a bunch of aces into your waistcoat,” as you reach into his waistcoat and pull out three or four of the palmed cards, leaving the rest inside; then drop two or three more on the floor to spread them out and make it look like there are many. You then say, “It looks like there are more in there99 than we thought. Maybe you should take them out yourself.” While he’s doing that, you palm all the remaining aces in your right hand. Once he claims to have taken them all out, you ask, “Are you really sure you don’t have any more aces? You blew pretty hard, after all. I think there’s a chance you might have some left. Can I check?” Then, standing on his right, you place your right hand just below his eyes and spring the remaining aces from it, as described for passing cards from hand to hand (see page 37), creating the effect that a shower of cards is coming from his nose.

Several Persons having each drawn Two Cards, which have been Returned and Shuffled, to make each Couple Appear in Succession, one at the top and the other at the bottom of the Pack.—This capital trick was also a great favourite with Comte, who christened it, for reasons best known to himself, by the poetical name of “The Ladies’ Looking-glass.”

A number of people each picked two cards, which were then put back and shuffled, placing each pair in order, one at the top and the other at the bottom of the deck.—This great trick was also a favorite of the Count, who named it, for reasons known only to him, the poetic title of “The Ladies’ Looking-glass.”

The cards having been freely shuffled, you invite a person to draw two cards, allowing him free choice. Opening the pack in the middle, you ask him to place his cards together in the opening. You bring them to the top by the pass, make the first of the false shuffles, and conclude by leaving them on the top. Offer the cards to a second person to draw a couple, but in opening the cards for him to return them, make the pass, so that they may be placed upon the pair already drawn, which are thereby brought to the middle of the pack. Again make the pass, so as to bring all four to the top. Make another false shuffle, leaving those four on the top, and offer the cards to a third and fourth person, each time repeating the process. Make the false shuffle for the last time, so as to leave all the drawn cards in a body on the top of the pack, with one indifferent card above them. The audience believe that they are thoroughly dispersed, and your first care must be to strengthen that impression. If you are expert in card-palming, you may palm the nine cards, and give the pack to be shuffled by one of the spectators; but this is not absolutely necessary, and there is some risk of the company noticing the absence of part of the pack. You remark, “You have all seen the drawn cards placed in different parts of the pack, and the whole have been since thoroughly shuffled. The drawn100 cards are therefore at this moment scattered in different parts of the pack. I can assure you that I do not myself know what the cards are” (this is the only item of fact in the whole sentence); “but yet, by a very slight, simple movement, I shall make them appear, in couples as they were drawn, at top and bottom of the pack.” Then, showing the bottom card, you ask, “Is this anybody’s card?” The reply is in the negative. You next show the top card, and make the same inquiry. While you do so, you slip the little finger under the next card, and as you replace the card you have just shown, make the pass, thus bringing both cards to the bottom of the pack. Meanwhile, you ask the last person who drew what his cards were. When he names them, you “ruffle” the cards, and show him first the bottom and then the top card, which will be the two he drew. While exhibiting the top card, take the opportunity to slip the little finger of the left hand immediately under the card next below it, and as you replace the top one make the pass at that point. You now have the third couple placed top and bottom. Make the drawer name them, ruffle the cards, and show them as before, again making the pass to bring the card just shown at top, with that next following, to the bottom of the pack, which will enable you to exhibit the second couple in like manner. These directions sound a little complicated, but if followed with the cards will be found simple enough.

The cards have been shuffled thoroughly, and you invite someone to draw two cards, giving them the freedom to choose. After they draw, you split the deck in the middle and ask them to place their cards there. You bring them to the top with a move, perform the first of the fake shuffles, and leave the cards on top. Offer the deck to a second person to draw two cards, and when you open the deck for them to return their cards, make the move again to position their cards on top of the ones that were already drawn, placing those in the middle of the deck. Do the move again to bring all four cards to the top. Perform another fake shuffle, keeping those four cards on top, and offer the deck to a third and fourth person, repeating the same method each time. Finally, do the fake shuffle once more to keep all the drawn cards together at the top of the pack, with one random card above them. The audience will believe that the cards are mixed up, and your first task is to reinforce that idea. If you're skilled at palming cards, you could palm the nine cards and let one of the audience members shuffle the rest of the deck; however, this isn’t completely necessary, and there's a chance people might notice part of the deck missing. You say, "You've all seen the drawn cards put in different places in the deck, and everything has been thoroughly shuffled since then. The drawn cards are now scattered throughout the pack. I promise I don't know what the cards are" (this is the only true statement in the whole sentence); "but with just a small, simple move, I'll make them appear in pairs as they were drawn, at the top and bottom of the deck." Then, showing the bottom card, you ask, "Is this anyone's card?" When they say no, show the top card and ask the same question. While doing that, slip your little finger under the next card, and as you put back the card you just showed, make the move, bringing both cards to the bottom of the deck. Meanwhile, ask the last person who drew what their cards were. When they tell you, you "ruffle" the cards and show them first the bottom and then the top card, which will be the two they picked. While showing the top card, take the chance to slip your left little finger under the card below it, and as you set the top card back down, make the move at that moment. Now you have the third pair at the top and bottom. Have the drawer name their cards, ruffle the deck, and show them as before, again making the move to bring the card just shown to the top, along with the next one, to the bottom of the pack, allowing you to display the second pair in the same way. These instructions might seem a bit complicated, but if you follow them with the cards, they will be quite simple.

You may, by way of variation, pretend to forget that a fourth person drew two cards, and, after making the pass as before, appear to be about to proceed to another trick. You will naturally be reminded that So-and-so drew two cards. Apologizing for the oversight, you beg him to say what his cards were. When he does so, you say, “To tell you the truth I have quite lost sight of them; but it is of no consequence, I can easily find them again.” Then nipping the upper end of the cards between the thumb and second finger of the right hand, which should be slightly moistened, you make the pack swing, pendulum fashion, a few inches backwards and forwards, when the whole of the intermediate cards will fall out, leaving the top and bottom card alone in your hand. These you hand to the drawer, who is compelled to acknowledge them as the cards he drew.

You can, as a twist, act like you forgot that a fourth person drew two cards, and after performing the move as before, look like you're about to move on to another trick. Naturally, someone will remind you that So-and-so drew two cards. Apologizing for the mistake, you ask him to tell you what his cards were. When he does, you say, “Honestly, I completely lost track of them; but it’s not a big deal, I can easily find them again.” Then, pinching the top end of the cards between your thumb and index finger of your right hand, which should be slightly damp, you make the deck swing back and forth a few inches like a pendulum, causing all the cards in between to fall out, leaving only the top and bottom cards in your hand. You then hand these to the person who drew them, who has to confirm that they are indeed the cards he picked.

101

101

To make Two Cards, each firmly held by a different Person, change places.—For the purpose of this trick you must have a duplicate of some one of the cards, say the knave of spades, and you must arrange your pack beforehand as follows: The bottom card must be a knave of spades; the next to it an indifferent card, say the nine of diamonds; and next above that, the second knave of spades. You come forward carelessly shuffling the cards (which you may do as freely as you please as to all above the three mentioned), and finish by placing the undermost knave of spades on the top. The bottom card will now be the nine of diamonds, with a knave of spades next above it. Holding up the pack in your left hand, in such a position as to be ready to “draw back” the bottom card (see page 36), you say, “Will you all be kind enough to notice and remember the bottom card, which I will place on the table here, so as to be in sight of everybody.” So saying, you drop the pack to the horizontal position, and draw out with the middle finger of the right hand apparently the bottom card, but really slide back that card, and take the one next to it (the knave of spades), which you lay face downwards on the table, and ask some one to cover with his hand. You then (by the slip or pass) bring the remaining knave of spades from the top to the bottom, and shuffle again as before, taking care not to displace the two bottom cards. Again ask the company to note the bottom card (which is now the knave of spades), and draw out, as before, apparently that card, but really the nine of diamonds. Place that also face downwards on the table, and request another person to cover it with his hand. The company are persuaded that the first card thus drawn was the nine of diamonds, and the second the knave of spades. You now announce that you will compel the two cards to change places, and after touching them with your wand, or performing any other mystical ceremony which may serve to account for the transformation, you request the person holding each to show his card, when they will be found to have obeyed your commands. The attention of the audience being naturally attracted to the two cards on the table, you will have little difficulty in palming and pocketing the second knave of spades, which is still at the bottom of the pack, and which, if discovered, would spoil the effect of the trick.

To create Two Cards, each held by a different Person, switch their positions.—For this trick, you need a duplicate of a card, let's say the jack of spades, and you should set up your deck in advance like this: The bottom card should be a jack of spades; the next card up should be a random card, such as the nine of diamonds; and above that, the second jack of spades. Approach casually while shuffling the cards (you can shuffle freely except for the three cards mentioned), and finish by placing the bottom jack of spades on top. Now, the bottom card will be the nine of diamonds, with a jack of spades right above it. Holding the deck in your left hand, ready to “draw back” the bottom card (see page 36), say, “Could everyone please pay attention to the bottom card, which I will place here on the table, so it’s visible to everyone.” As you say this, drop the deck to a horizontal position and, using your right middle finger, pretend to take the bottom card, but actually slide it back and take the one next to it (the jack of spades), placing it face down on the table and asking someone to cover it with their hand. Then, using the slip or pass, bring the remaining jack of spades from the top to the bottom and shuffle again as before, being careful not to disturb the two bottom cards. Ask the audience to note the bottom card (which is now the jack of spades) and draw out, as before, what looks like that card, but really the nine of diamonds. Place that card face down on the table as well and ask another person to cover it with their hand. The audience will believe that the first card drawn was the nine of diamonds and the second was the jack of spades. Now, announce that you will make the two cards switch places, and after touching them with your wand or doing some other mystical act to explain the change, ask the people holding each card to reveal what they have, and they will find that they have followed your command. Since the audience’s attention will be focused on the two cards on the table, you’ll find it easy to palm and pocket the second jack of spades, which is still at the bottom of the deck and would ruin the trick if discovered.

102

102

To Change Four Cards, drawn haphazard, and placed on the table, into Cards of the same Value as a Single Card subsequently chosen by one of the Spectators.—This trick is on the same principle as that last above described, but is much more brilliant in effect. To perform it, it is necessary, or at least desirable, to possess a forcing pack consisting of one card several times repeated. We will suppose your forcing pack to consist of queens of diamonds. Before commencing the trick, you must secretly prepare your ordinary pack in the following manner:—Place at the bottom any indifferent card, and on this a queen; then another indifferent card, then another queen; another indifferent card, then another queen; another indifferent card, and on it the fourth and last queen. You thus have at the bottom the four queens, each with an ordinary card next below it. Each indifferent card should be of the same suit as the queen next above it, so that all of the four suits may be represented. Shuffle the cards, taking care however, not to disturb the eight cards above mentioned. Then say, “I am about to take four cards from the bottom, and place them on the table. Will you please to remember what they are?” Show the bottom card, then, dropping the pack to the horizontal position, “draw back” that card, and take the next, which is one of the queens, and, without showing it, lay it face downwards on the table. You now want to get rid of the card you have already shown, which is still at the bottom. To effect this without arousing suspicion, the best and easiest plan is to shuffle each time after drawing a card, not disturbing the arranged cards at the bottom, but concluding the shuffle by placing the bottom card, which is the one you desire to get rid of, on the top of the pack. Thus after each shuffle you are enabled to show a fresh bottom card, which, however, you slide back, and draw the next card (a queen) instead. Repeat this four times, when you will have all four queens on the table, though the audience imagine them to be the four cards they have just seen. In order to impress this more fully upon them, ask some one to repeat the names of the four cards. While the attention of the audience is thus occupied, you secretly exchange the pack you have been using for your forcing pack, and advancing to the audience say, “Now I shall ask some one to draw a card; and whatever card is drawn, I will,103 without even touching them, transform the four cards on the table to cards of the same value. Thus, if you draw a king they shall all become kings; if you draw a ten, they shall become tens, and so on. Now, choose your card, as deliberately as you please.” You spread the cards before the drawer, allowing him perfect freedom of choice, as, of course, whatever card he draws must necessarily be a queen of diamonds. You ask him to be good enough to say what the card he has drawn is, and on being told that it is a queen, you say, “Then, by virtue of my magic power, I order that the four cards now on the table change to queens. Pray observe that I do not meddle with them in any way. I merely touch each with my wand, so! Will some one kindly step forward, and bear witness that the change has really taken place.”

To transform four randomly drawn cards placed on the table into cards that all match the value of a single card selected later by one of the spectators.—This trick follows the same principle as the one described earlier, but it has a much more striking effect. To perform it, it's essential, or at least helpful, to have a forcing pack consisting of one card repeated multiple times. Let's assume your forcing pack consists of queens of diamonds. Before starting the trick, you should secretly prepare your regular pack like this:—Place any random card at the bottom and on top of that, a queen; then another random card, followed by another queen; another random card, and another queen; a final random card, and on it, the last queen. You now have four queens at the bottom, each with a random card below it. Each random card should match the suit of the queen above it, ensuring all four suits are represented. Shuffle the cards, but be careful not to disturb the eight cards you’ve just arranged. Then say, “I’m going to take four cards from the bottom and place them on the table. Please remember what they are.” Show the bottom card, then, dropping the pack to a horizontal position, “draw back” that card, and take the next one, which is one of the queens, and without revealing it, place it face down on the table. Now, you need to get rid of the card you've already shown, which is still at the bottom. To do this without raising suspicion, the best and simplest method is to shuffle after drawing a card, keeping the arranged cards intact at the bottom, but finishing the shuffle by placing the bottom card, which you want to remove, on top of the pack. So, after each shuffle, you can show a new bottom card, which you slide back and draw the next card (a queen) instead. Repeat this four times, and you will have all four queens on the table, while the audience believes they are the four cards they just saw. To make this impression even stronger, ask someone to name the four cards. While the audience’s attention is focused on this, you secretly swap the pack you’ve been using for your forcing pack, and stepping forward, say, “Now I’ll ask someone to draw a card; and whatever card is drawn, I will, without even touching them, change the four cards on the table to match that value. So, if you draw a king, they will all become kings; if you draw a ten, they will turn into tens, and so on. Now, take your card, as carefully as you like.” You fan out the cards in front of the chooser, allowing them full freedom of choice, since whatever card they draw will definitely be a queen of diamonds. You ask them to state what card they've drawn, and when they say it's a queen, you reply, “Then, by the power of my magic, I declare that the four cards now on the table turn into queens. Please see that I don’t touch them at all. I just tap each with my wand, like this! Will someone please come forward and confirm that the change has truly occurred?”

If you do not possess a forcing pack, but rely upon your own skill in forcing with an ordinary pack, it is well to prepare this second beforehand by placing the four queens (supposing that you desire a queen to be drawn) at the bottom. Making the pass as you advance to the company, you bring these to the middle and present the pack. It is comparatively easy to insure one or other of four cards placed together being drawn.

If you don’t have a forcing pack and instead use your own skill with a regular pack, it’s a good idea to set up this second pack in advance by placing the four queens (assuming you want a queen to be drawn) at the bottom. As you approach the audience, make the pass to bring these queens to the middle and show the pack. It’s relatively easy to make sure one of those four cards that are together gets picked.

Two Heaps of Cards, unequal in Number, being placed upon the Table, to predict beforehand which of the two the Company will choose.—There is an old schoolboy trick, which consists in placing on the table two heaps of cards, one consisting of seven indifferent cards, and the other of the four sevens. The performer announces that he will predict beforehand (either verbally or in writing) which of the two heaps the company will choose; and fulfils his undertaking by declaring that they will choose “the seven heap.” This description will suit either heap, being in the one case understood to apply to the number of cards in the heap, in the other case to denote the value of the individual cards.

Two uneven piles of cards are placed on the table to predict which one the group will choose.—There's a classic schoolboy trick where you put two piles of cards on the table: one pile has seven random cards, and the other has four sevens. The performer claims they can predict (either verbally or in writing) which pile the group will select and fulfills this claim by saying they’ll choose “the seven pile.” This statement fits either pile, depending on whether it refers to the number of cards in the pile or the value of the specific cards.

The trick in this form would not be worth noticing, save as a prelude to a newer and really good method of performing the same feat. You place on the table two heaps of cards, each containing the same number, say six cards, which may be the first that come to hand, the value of the cards being in this case of no consequence.104 You announce that, of the two heaps, one contains an odd and the other an even number. This is, of course, untrue; but it is one of the postulates of a conjuror’s performance that he may tell professionally as many fibs as he likes, and that his most solemn asseverations are only to be taken in a Pickwickian sense. You continue, “I do not tell you which heap is odd and which is even, but I will predict to you, as many times as you like, which heap you will choose. Observe, I do not influence your choice in any way. I may tell you that you will this time choose the heap containing the odd number.” While delivering this harangue, you take the opportunity of palming in your right hand a single card from the top of the pack, and place the remainder of the cards apart on the table. When the audience have made their choice, you pick up the chosen heap with the right hand, thereby adding the palmed card to that heap, and, coming forward, ask some one to verify your prediction. The number is, naturally, found to be odd. You then bring forward the second heap, which is found to be even. Join the two heaps together, and again separate them, palming the top card of the odd heap, replace the two heaps on the table, and this time predict that the audience will choose the heap containing the even number. When they have made their selection, you have only to pick up the non-chosen heap with the hand containing the palmed card, and the chosen heap with the empty hand.

The trick in this version wouldn’t be worth noting, except as a lead-in to a newer and genuinely good way to perform the same trick. You set two piles of cards on the table, each with the same number, say six cards, which can be the first ones you grab; the specific cards don’t matter here.104 You claim that one pile contains an odd number of cards and the other an even number. This is, of course, false; but it's a basic rule for a magician's act that they can tell as many lies as they want, and that their most serious statements should only be interpreted in a light-hearted way. You continue, “I won’t tell you which pile is odd and which is even, but I will predict, as many times as you want, which pile you will choose. Just so you know, I’m not influencing your choice at all. I can say that this time you will choose the pile with the odd number.” While saying this, you discreetly palm a single card from the top of the deck with your right hand and put the rest of the cards aside on the table. After the audience makes their choice, you pick up the chosen pile with your right hand, adding the palmed card to that pile, and then step forward to ask someone to confirm your prediction. The number will, of course, be odd. Then, you show the second pile, which will be even. Combine the two piles, then separate them again, palming the top card from the odd pile, placing both piles back on the table, and this time predicting that the audience will choose the pile with the even number. Once they make their selection, you simply pick up the pile that wasn’t chosen with the hand holding the palmed card and the chosen pile with your empty hand.

You may with truth assure the audience that you could go on all the evening predicting their choice with equal certainty, but it is best not to repeat the trick too often. You will do wisely to pass on at once to the next trick, which will enable you to display your powers of divination in a yet more surprising form.

You can honestly tell the audience that you could keep predicting their choices all evening with the same accuracy, but it's better not to overdo it. It would be smart to move straight on to the next trick, which will let you showcase your divination skills in an even more surprising way.

A Row of Cards being placed Face Downwards on the Table, to indicate, by turning up one of them, how many of such Cards have during your absence been transferred from one end of the Row to the other.—This trick is somewhat out of place in this chapter, inasmuch as it involves no sleight-of-hand, but we insert it here as forming an appropriate sequel to that last described. It is thus performed:—You deal from the top of the pack, face downwards on the table, a row of fifteen cards. To all105 appearance, you are quite indifferent what cards you take, but, in reality, you have pre-arranged the first ten cards in the following manner:—First a ten, then a nine, then an eight, and so on down to the ace inclusive. The suits are of no consequence. The eleventh card should be a blank card, if you have one of the same pattern as the pack; if not, a knave will do. This card, in the process which follows, will stand for 0. When the fifteen cards are dealt, their arrangement will therefore be as follows:—

A line of cards is laid face down on the table, and by flipping one of them over, it shows how many of these cards have been moved from one end of the line to the other while you were away.—This trick seems a bit out of place in this chapter since it doesn’t involve any sleight-of-hand, but we’re including it here as a fitting follow-up to the last one described. Here’s how it’s done:—You deal a row of fifteen cards from the top of the deck, face down on the table. To everyone watching, it looks like you’re completely unconcerned about which cards you’re picking, but in reality, you have set the first ten cards up in this specific order: a ten, then a nine, then an eight, and so on down to the ace. The suits don’t matter. The eleventh card should be a blank card, provided it matches the design of the rest of the deck; if you don’t have one, a jack will work. This card will represent 0 in the process that follows. Once you’ve dealt all fifteen cards, their arrangement will be as follows:—

10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 0, *, *, *, *,—

10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 0, *, *, *, *,—

the four asterisks representing any four indifferent cards. This special arrangement is, of course, unknown to the audience. You now offer to leave the room, and invite the audience, during your absence, to remove any number of the cards (not exceeding ten) from the right hand end of the row, and place them, in the same order, at the other end of the row. On your return, you have only to turn up the eleventh card, counting from the beginning or left hand end, which will indicate by its points the number of cards removed. A few examples will illustrate this fact. Thus, suppose that two cards only have been removed from the right to the left hand end, the row thus altered will be as follows:—

the four asterisks representing any four random cards. This special setup is, of course, unknown to the audience. You now offer to leave the room and invite the audience, during your absence, to remove any number of cards (up to ten) from the right end of the row and place them, in the same order, at the other end of the row. When you return, you just need to turn over the eleventh card, counting from the beginning or left end, which will show the number of cards that were moved. A few examples will demonstrate this fact. For instance, if only two cards have been moved from the right to the left end, the altered row will be as follows:—

*, *, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, [2], 1, 0, *, *.

*, *, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, [2], 1, 0, *, *.

The eleventh card from the left will be a two, being the number moved. Suppose that seven cards have been removed, the new arrangement will be—

The eleventh card from the left will be a two, which is the number moved. Suppose that seven cards have been removed; the new arrangement will be—

2, 1, 0, *, *, *, *, 10, 9, 8, [7], 6, 5, 4, 3,

2, 1, 0, *, *, *, *, 10, 9, 8, [7], 6, 5, 4, 3,

and the card in the eleventh place will be a seven. Suppose the audience avail themselves of your permission to the fullest extent, and remove ten cards, the same result follows.

and the card in the eleventh position will be a seven. If the audience takes full advantage of your permission and removes ten cards, the same result occurs.

5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 0, *, *, *, *, [10], 9, 8, 7, 6.

5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 0, *, *, *, *, [10], 9, 8, 7, 6.

If no card is moved, the 0 will remain the eleventh card, as it was at first. If you repeat the trick a second time, you must replace the cards moved in their original positions. Do not, if you can possibly help it, allow the audience to perceive that you count the cards.

If no card is moved, the 0 will stay the eleventh card, just like it was at the start. If you do the trick a second time, you need to put the moved cards back in their original positions. Try your best not to let the audience see that you’re counting the cards.

106 You are not necessarily restricted to fifteen cards, but may increase the number up to twenty if you please, making up the complement by increasing the number of the indifferent cards at the right hand of the original row.

106 You don’t have to stick to fifteen cards; you can increase the number to twenty if you want, by adding more indifferent cards to the right side of the original row.

The trick may be equally well performed with dominoes, or with numbered pieces of paper, as with playing cards.

The trick can be just as easily done with dominoes or numbered pieces of paper as it can with playing cards.

Several Cards having been freely chosen by the Company, Returned and Shuffled, and the Pack placed in a Person’s Pocket, to make such Person draw out one by one the chosen Cards.—This trick is an especial favourite of the well-known Herrmann, in whose hands it never fails to produce a brilliant effect. The performer hands the pack to one of the company, who is requested to shuffle it well, and then to invite any four persons each to draw a card. This having been done, the pack is returned to the performer, who then requests the same person to collect the chosen cards face downwards on his open palm. The cards so collected are placed in the middle of the pack, which is then handed to the person who collected them, with a request that he will shuffle them thoroughly. After he has done so, the pack is placed by the performer in the volunteer assistant’s breast-pocket. The performer now asks one of the four persons who drew to name his card. He next requests the person assisting him to touch the end of his wand, and then as quickly as possible (that the mystic influence may not have time to evaporate) to put his hand in his pocket, and draw out the card named. He takes out one card accordingly, which proves to be the very one called for. A second and third card are named and drawn in the same manner, to the astonishment of all, and not least of the innocent assistant. The fourth and last card, which is, say, the ten of spades, he is requested to look for in the pack, but it proves to be missing, and the performer thereupon offers to show him how to make a ten of spades. To do so, he requests him to blow into his pocket, where the missing card is immediately found. But he has, unfortunately, blown too strongly, and has made not only a ten of spades, but a host of other cards, which the performer pulls out in quantities, not only from his pocket, but from the inside of his waistcoat—ultimately producing a final shower from his nose.

Some cards have been selected by the group, put back, shuffled, and then the deck placed in someone's pocket, letting that person pull out the chosen cards one at a time.—This trick is a favorite of the famous Herrmann, who always manages to create an impressive effect with it. The performer hands the deck to someone in the group, asking them to shuffle it well and then ask four people to each draw a card. Once they do that, the deck is returned to the performer, who then asks the same person to gather the chosen cards face down on their open palm. The collected cards are placed in the middle of the deck, which is then handed back to the person who collected them, asking them to shuffle thoroughly. After they shuffle, the performer puts the deck in the volunteer’s breast pocket. The performer then asks one of the four people who drew a card to name theirs. Next, he asks the assistant to touch his wand and then quickly reach into his pocket to pull out the named card before the magic fades. The assistant pulls out a card, and it is the exact one called for. Two more cards are named and drawn in the same way, astonishing everyone, including the unsuspecting assistant. For the fourth and final card, let's say the ten of spades, the assistant is asked to search for it in the deck, but it’s nowhere to be found. The performer then offers to show him how to make a ten of spades. He asks the assistant to blow into his pocket, where the missing card immediately appears. Unfortunately, he blows too hard and creates not just a ten of spades but also a bunch of other cards, which the performer starts pulling out in large quantities, not only from his pocket but from the inside of his waistcoat—ultimately producing a final shower from his nose.

107 This trick, which appears marvellous in execution, is really very simple, and depends for its effect, not so much on any extraordinary degree of dexterity, as on the manner and address of the performer. When the four cards are replaced in the middle of the pack, the performer makes the pass to bring them to the top, and palms them. He then hands the pack to be shuffled. When it is returned, he replaces them on the top, and, placing the person assisting him on his left hand, and facing the audience, places the pack in the left breast-pocket of such person, taking care to place the top of the pack (on which are the chosen cards) outwards. In asking the names of the drawn cards, he puts the question first to the person who last replaced his card (and whose card is therefore on the top), and so on. He is particular in impressing upon the person assisting him that he must draw out the card as quickly as possible, thus giving him no time to select a card, but compelling him, so to speak, to take that which is readiest to his hand, which will always be the outermost, or top card.

107 This trick, which looks amazing when performed, is actually quite simple and relies more on the performer's skill and style than on any exceptional level of dexterity. When the four cards are placed back in the middle of the deck, the performer makes a move to bring them to the top and hides them in his hand. He then gives the deck to someone to shuffle. When it comes back, he puts the cards on top again and positions the helper to his left, facing the audience. He then places the deck in the left breast pocket of the helper, making sure the top of the deck (with the selected cards) is facing outward. When asking for the names of the drawn cards, he starts with the person who last put their card back (whose card is now on top) and continues from there. He emphasizes to the helper that they need to pull out the card as quickly as possible, leaving no time to choose a card, forcing them to take the one that’s most accessible, which will always be the top card.

Should he notwithstanding, by accident or finesse, draw out a card from the middle of the pack, the performer at once says, “Oh, you were not half quick enough! You must pull out the card as quick as thought, or the magic influence will go off. Allow me!” then pulling out the outer card himself, he shows that it is the right one. When three cards have been thus produced, he himself plunges his hand into the pocket, and takes out the whole pack, with the exception of the then top card, which is the fourth of the cards drawn; then, pretending to recollect himself, he says, “Stay; we had four cards drawn. Will you say what your card was, madam?” We have supposed that it was the ten of spades. He hands the pack to the person assisting him, saying, “Will you find the ten of spades, and return it to the lady?” Being in his pocket, of course it cannot be found in the pack, and on blowing into the pocket it is naturally discovered there. The performer meanwhile has palmed about a third of the pack, which he introduces into the pocket at the same moment that he places his hand therein to take out the supposed superfluous cards. From this stage to the close the trick is merely a repetition of that already given under the title of the “Shower of Aces” (see page 97), to which the reader is referred.

Should he, by chance or skill, pull a card from the middle of the deck, the performer immediately says, “Oh, you weren’t quick enough! You need to pull the card out as fast as thought, or the magic will fade. Let me!” Then, pulling out the top card himself, he reveals that it’s the right one. After three cards have been produced this way, he reaches into his pocket and takes out the entire deck, except for the top card, which is the fourth card drawn. Then, pretending to remember, he says, “Wait; we had four cards drawn. Can you tell us what your card was, madam?” We assume it was the ten of spades. He hands the deck to the assistant, saying, “Can you find the ten of spades and give it back to the lady?” Since it’s in his pocket, of course it won’t be found in the deck, and when he blows into his pocket, it’s naturally discovered there. Meanwhile, the performer has secretly held back about a third of the deck, which he puts into his pocket as he reaches in to retrieve the supposed extra cards. From this point to the end, the trick is just a repetition of what was described under the title of the “Shower of Aces” (see page 97), to which the reader is referred.

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108

The Cards having been freely shuffled, and cut into three or four heaps, to name the top Card of each heap.—Note the bottom card of the pack, which we will suppose to be the nine of diamonds. Shuffle the cards, so as to bring this card to the top, and palm it. Then remark, “But perhaps you would rather shuffle for yourselves,” and hand the pack to some one of the company for that purpose. When the pack is returned, replace the card on the top, and continue, placing the pack on the table, “You observe that I do not meddle with the cards in any way. Now will some one be good enough to cut them into two, three, or four parts, when I will at once name the top card of each.” To do this you must take especial notice where the upper part of the pack is placed, as you know that the top card of this particular heap is the nine of diamonds. Placing your finger gravely, not on this, but on one of the other heaps, you say, appearing to reflect, “This is the nine of diamonds.” We will suppose that it is in reality the queen of spades. You take it in your hand without allowing the audience to see it, and, noticing what it is, at once touch the top card of another heap, saying, “And this is the queen of spades.” Glancing in like manner at this card, which is, say, the seven of clubs, you touch another card, and say, “This is the seven of clubs.” We will suppose that this third card is really the ace of hearts. You conclude, taking up the card you have all along known (the real nine of diamonds), “And this last is the ace of hearts.” Then, throwing all four on the table, show that you have named them correctly.

The cards have been shuffled and divided into three or four stacks, so let’s name the top card of each stack.—Note the bottom card of the deck, which we'll assume is the nine of diamonds. Shuffle the cards until this card is on top, and hide it in your hand. Then say, “Maybe you’d like to shuffle them yourselves,” and pass the deck to someone in the group for that. Once the deck is handed back, put the card back on top, then place the deck on the table, saying, “You can see I’m not touching the cards in any way. Now, could someone please split them into two, three, or four parts, and I will name the top card of each?” You need to pay close attention to where the top section of the deck is, as you know the top card of this particular pile is the nine of diamonds. Pointing seriously at one of the other piles instead, you say, pretending to think, “This is the nine of diamonds.” Let’s say it’s actually the queen of spades. You pick it up without letting the audience see it and, knowing what it is, touch the top card of another pile, saying, “And this is the queen of spades.” Taking a look at that card, which is, for instance, the seven of clubs, you touch another card and say, “This is the seven of clubs.” Let’s assume this third card is actually the ace of hearts. To finish, you take the card you’ve known all along (the actual nine of diamonds) and say, “And this last one is the ace of hearts.” Then, throw all four cards on the table to show that you’ve named them accurately.

This trick should be performed with considerable quickness and vivacity, so as not to give the audience much time for thought as you name the cards. It is further necessary that the spectators be well in front of you, and so placed that they cannot see the faces of the cards as you pick them up.

This trick should be done quickly and with energy, so the audience doesn't have much time to think as you name the cards. It's also important that the spectators are positioned directly in front of you and that they can't see the faces of the cards as you pick them up.

To allow a Person secretly to think of a Card, and dividing the Pack into three heaps, to cause the Card thought of to appear in whichever heap the Company may choose.—Hand the pack to the company, with a request that they will well shuffle it. When it is returned, cut the pack into three heaps on the table, and invite some one to secretly think of a card.109 When he has done so, say boldly, “The card you have thought of is in this heap,” touching one of them—say the middle one. “Will you be kind enough to name it?” The person names, say, the queen of spades. You continue, “Your card, as I have already told you, is in this centre heap. To satisfy you that it is so, and that I do not now place it there by means of any sleight-of-hand, I will, in the first place, show you that it is not in either of the other heaps.” Gathering together the two heaps in question, and turning them face upwards, you come forward to the audience, rapidly spreading and running over the cards the while in order to ascertain whether the queen of spades is among them. If it is not, the trick has so far succeeded without any trouble on your part; and, after showing that the card is not among those you hold, you bring forward the remaining packet, and show that you were correct in your assertion. You then say, “I do not generally repeat a trick, but on this occasion, as you may possibly imagine that my success was a mere result of accident, I will perform the trick once more, and, if you please, you shall yourselves name beforehand the packet in which the card thought of shall appear.” The packet having been chosen, you join the other two in your left hand, and invite some one to think of a card. When he has done so, you come forward, as before, to show that it is not among the cards you hold. Luck may again favour you; but if not, and you see the card chosen among those you hold in your hand, you quickly draw it, by a rapid movement of the second finger of the right hand, behind the rest of the pack, and, continuing your examination, show the company, to all appearance, that the card is not there. Having done this, you again turn the pack over (when the card thought of will be on the top), and, covering the pack for a moment with the right hand, palm that card. Then, picking up with the same hand the heap remaining on the table, you place the palmed card on the top, and, transferring the cards to the left hand, you say, “You are welcome to watch me as closely as you please. You will find that I shall cut these cards at the precise card you thought of.” To all appearance you merely cut the cards, but really at the same moment make the pass (by lifting away the lower instead of the upper half of the packet). The upper part of the packet, with the card on the top, remains in the left hand. You request110 some one to look at the top card, which is found to be the card thought of.

Have someone secretly think of a card and split the deck into three piles, making the chosen card appear in the pile that the group picks.—Hand the deck to the group and ask them to shuffle it well. Once it’s returned, cut the deck into three piles on the table and invite someone to think of a card. 109 When they’ve done that, confidently say, “The card you’re thinking of is in this pile,” while touching one of them—let’s say the middle one. “Could you please name it?” The person names, for example, the queen of spades. You reply, “As I already mentioned, your card is in this center pile. To prove it to you and show that I haven’t put it there using any tricks, first let me demonstrate that it’s not in either of the other two piles.” Gather the two other piles, turning them face up, and move in front of the audience, quickly spreading the cards to check if the queen of spades is there. If it’s not, the trick has worked smoothly so far; after confirming the card isn’t among those you’re holding, show the last pile to prove you were right. Then you say, “I don’t usually repeat tricks, but this time, since you might think my success was just luck, I’ll perform it again, and you can choose which pile the card will show up in.” Once a pile is selected, hold the other two in your left hand and invite someone to think of a card again. After they do, approach the audience to demonstrate the card isn’t in your hands. You might get lucky again; if not, and you spot the chosen card among those you hold, quickly pull it back behind the rest of the deck with your right hand’s second finger, all the while acting as if you’re still searching. After this, turn the deck over (with the chosen card on top), and cover the deck briefly with your right hand to palm the card. Then, while picking up the remaining pile on the table with your right hand, place the palmed card on top, and transferring the cards to your left hand, say, “Feel free to watch me closely. You’ll see I’ll cut these cards right at the card you thought of.” It looks like you’re just cutting the cards, but you’re actually making the move (by lifting the bottom half instead of the top half). The upper part with the card on top stays in your left hand. You then ask110 someone to look at the top card, which turns out to be the chosen card.

Should the card in the first instance prove to be among the non-designated cards, you will proceed as last directed; but do not in this case repeat the trick.

Should the card in the first instance turn out to be one of the non-designated cards, you will proceed as last directed; but in this case, do not repeat the trick.

To allow a Person secretly to think of a Card, and, even before such Card is named, to select it from the Pack, and place it singly upon the Table.—This trick is on the same principle, and performed in a great measure by the same means, as that last described. You invite a person to think of a card (without naming it). When he has done so, you offer the pack to another person to shuffle, and finally to a third person to cut. Then, selecting any one card from the pack, you walk to your table, and, without showing what it is, place it face downwards on the table, retaining the rest of the pack in your left hand. Then, addressing the person who was requested to think of a card, you say, “The card which I have just placed on the table is the one you thought of. Will you be good enough to name it?” We will suppose that the card thought of was the ace of spades. You say, as in the last trick, “Allow me to show you, in the first place, that the ace of spades is no longer in the pack.” Coming forward to the audience, and rapidly running over the cards, you catch sight of the ace of spades, and slip it behind the rest. Having shown that it is, apparently, not in the pack, you turn the cards over (when the ace will, of course, be on the top), and palm it. Leaving the pack with the audience, you advance to your table, and pick up the card on the table with the same hand in which the ace of spades is already palmed. Draw away the card towards the back of the table, and, as it reaches the edge, drop it on the servante, and produce the ace of spades as being the card just picked up. The trick requires a little practice, but, if well executed, the illusion is perfect.

To allow someone to secretly think of a card and, even before they say it, to select it from the deck and place it by itself on the table.—This trick is based on the same principle and is largely performed using the same methods as the last one described. You ask a person to think of a card (without saying it out loud). Once they do, you give the deck to another person to shuffle and then to a third person to cut. Then, you pick any card from the deck and walk to your table, placing it face down without revealing what it is, while keeping the rest of the deck in your left hand. Turning to the person who thought of a card, you say, “The card I just put on the table is the one you were thinking of. Can you please name it?” Let's assume the thought-of card was the ace of spades. You then say, like in the previous trick, “First, let me show you that the ace of spades is no longer in the deck.” Approaching the audience and quickly looking through the cards, you spot the ace of spades and slip it behind the others. After showing that it seems to be missing from the deck, you flip the cards over (with the ace on top) and palm it. Leaving the deck with the audience, you go back to your table and pick up the card there with the same hand holding the ace of spades. Pull the card towards the back of the table, and as it reaches the edge, drop it onto the servante, revealing the ace of spades as the card just picked up. The trick takes a bit of practice, but when done well, the illusion is flawless.

The above directions are framed upon the assumption that you are performing with a proper conjuror’s table, which, as already stated, has a servante, or hidden shelf, at the back for the reception of objects which the performer may require to pick up or lay down without the knowledge of his audience. The trick may, however,111 be performed without the aid of such a table, but will, in such case, require some little variation.

The above instructions are based on the assumption that you are using a proper magician's table, which, as mentioned earlier, has a servante, or hidden shelf, at the back for storing objects that the performer may need to pick up or put down without the audience noticing. However, the trick can also be done without such a table, but it will need some slight adjustments. 111

If you are using an ordinary table, the most effective mode of finishing the trick is as follows:—Walk boldly to the table, and pick up with the right hand (in which the card actually thought of is palmed) the card lying on the table, and, without looking at it yourself, hold it towards your audience, remarking, “Here it is, you see, the ace of spades.” The card being, in truth, a totally different one (say the seven of diamonds), the audience naturally imagine that the trick has broken down, and a derisive murmur apprises you of the fact. You thereupon glance at the card, and affect some little surprise and embarrassment on finding that it is a wrong one. However, after a moment’s pause, you say, taking the card face downwards between the thumb and second finger of the left hand, “Well, I really don’t know how the mistake could have occurred. However, I can easily correct it.” Change the card by the fifth method (see page 32), and, after a little byplay to heighten the effect of the transformation, again show the card, which this time proves to be the right one. The audience will readily conclude that the supposed mistake was really a feint, designed to heighten the effect of the trick.

If you’re using a regular table, the best way to finish the trick is like this: Walk confidently to the table, pick up the card with your right hand (where you’re secretly holding the card they thought of), and without looking at it yourself, show it to your audience, saying, “Here it is, you see, the ace of spades.” The card is actually a completely different one (like the seven of diamonds), so the audience will probably think the trick has failed, and you’ll hear some mocking murmurs. Then, you glance at the card and pretend to be a bit surprised and embarrassed that it's the wrong one. After a moment, you say, holding the card face down between your thumb and index finger of your left hand, “Well, I really don’t know how that mistake happened. But I can easily fix it.” Switch the card using the fifth method (see page 32), and after some playful antics to enhance the transformation effect, show the card again, which will now be the right one. The audience will quickly assume that the supposed mistake was actually a trick meant to enhance the overall effect.

A Card having been Secretly Thought of by one of the Audience, to place two Indifferent Cards upon the table, and to Change such one of them as the Audience may select into the Card thought of.—Arrange your pack beforehand in such manner that among the fifteen or sixteen undermost cards there may be only one court card, and note at what number from the bottom this card is. Advance to the company, offering the cards face downwards in the ordinary way, and requesting some person to draw a card. Then, as if upon a second thought, say, before he has time to draw, “Or, if you prefer it, you need not even touch the cards, but merely think of one as I spread them before you.” So saying, spread the cards one by one, with their faces to the company, beginning at the bottom. The single court card being conspicuous among so many plain cards, and there being nothing apparently to create a suspicion of design about the arrangement it is ten to one that the person will note that particular card,112 which we will suppose to be the knave of hearts. When you have run over twelve or fourteen cards in this way, ask, still moving on the cards, “Have you thought of a card?” On receiving an answer in the affirmative, you make the pass two cards below the court card (which you know by the number at which it stands), and forthwith make a false shuffle, leaving the last three cards undisturbed, so that the court card remains third from the bottom. Turning to the audience, you remark, “I will now take the two bottom cards, whatever they may happen to be, and lay them on the table.” Then, holding up the pack in the left hand, with the bottom card towards the audience, you inquire, “That is not your card, sir, I suppose? nor that?” each time lowering the cards in order to draw away with the moistened finger of the right hand, and place face downwards on the table, the card just shown. The second time, however, you do not really draw the card you have shown, but draw back that card and take the one next to it—viz., the knave of hearts. You then, standing behind your table and facing the audience, again repeat the question, “You are quite sure, sir, that neither of these two cards is the card you thought of? Which of them would you like me to transform into your card, the right or the left?” Whichever the answer is, it may be taken in two ways, and you interpret it as may best suit your purpose. Thus, if you have placed the knave of hearts on your own right, and the choice falls on the right-hand card, you interpret it to mean the one on your own right hand. If, on the contrary, the person chooses the card on the left, you interpret him to mean the card on his left, and therefore on your right; so that in either case you make the choice fall on the knave of hearts.G Taking up the other card, and holding it, without apparent design, so that the audience can see what it is, you return it to the pack. Then say boldly, “This card upon the table will forthwith change to the card you thought of. Will you be good enough to name it?” If he names the knave of hearts, you have nothing to do but to turn up, or request some other person to turn up, the card on the table, and show that it is the right one.

Someone in the audience is secretly thinking of a card. The plan is to place two random cards on the table and change the one the audience picks into the card they were thinking of.—Before starting, arrange your deck so that out of the fifteen or sixteen cards at the bottom, there is only one face card, and remember the position of this card from the bottom. Approach the group and offer the cards face down, asking someone to draw a card. Then, as if you've changed your mind, say, “Or, if you prefer, you don’t even need to touch the cards—just think of one as I fan them out in front of you.” While saying this, spread the cards one by one with their faces showing, starting from the bottom. The single face card will stand out among the many plain cards, and since there’s nothing suspicious about the arrangement, it's likely that the person will notice that specific card,112 which we'll assume to be the jack of hearts. After showing twelve or fourteen cards this way, ask, still moving the cards, “Have you thought of a card?” When they answer yes, make the pass two cards below the face card (which you know because you remember its position), and then do a false shuffle, keeping the last three cards in place so that the face card remains third from the bottom. Turning to the audience, say, “I will now take the two bottom cards, whatever they may be, and place them on the table.” Then, holding the pack in your left hand with the bottom card facing the audience, ask, “This isn’t your card, is it, sir? And this one?” Each time you do this, lower the cards to draw away with the moistened finger of your right hand, placing the card just shown face down on the table. However, the second time, instead of taking the card just shown, you pull back that card and take the one next to it—namely, the jack of hearts. Then, standing behind your table and facing the audience, repeat the question, “Are you sure that neither of these two cards is the one you thought of? Which one would you like me to turn into your card, the right or the left?” Depending on their answer, you can interpret it in two ways to fit your needs. So, if the jack of hearts is on your right and they choose the right-hand card, interpret it as meaning the one on your side. Conversely, if they pick the left card, interpret it as referring to the card on their left, which is also on your right; in both cases, you will end up making the choice land on the jack of hearts.G Then pick up the other card, holding it casually so the audience can see it, before returning it to the deck. Boldly state, “This card on the table will now change into the card you thought of. Can you please name it?” If they say the jack of hearts, all you have to do is turn up the card on the table or ask someone else to reveal it, showing that it's the correct one.

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G The reader should specially note this expedient, as it is of constant use in conjuring.

G The reader should pay special attention to this technique, as it is frequently used in magic.

It is, however, quite possible that the person, by accident or design, may have thought, not of the knave of hearts, but of some other card, say the nine of diamonds. Even in this case you need not be at a loss, although the card on the table is a wrong one. When the card is named, you say, “The nine of diamonds. Quite right! Let me show you, in the first place, that it is not here in the pack.” Advancing to the audience, and at the same time running over the cards, as in the last trick, you draw the nine of diamonds behind the other cards, and show that, apparently, it is not among them. On turning the pack over it will be at the top. Taking the pack in the left hand, and, returning to your table, pick up (with the right hand) the knave of hearts, and without looking at it yourself, say, “Here it is, you see, the nine of diamonds.” Then, with a careless gesture, and making a half turn to the right or left to cover the movement, “change” the card by the third method (see page 30), taking care not to show the card after the change. The audience will naturally exclaim that the card you have just shown them is not the nine of diamonds. You affect great surprise, and ask, “Indeed, what card was it then?” They reply, “The knave of hearts.” “The knave of hearts; surely not!” you exclaim, again showing the card in your hand, which is now found to be the nine of diamonds. “Indeed,” you continue, “you could not possibly have seen the knave of hearts, for that gentleman in the front row has had it in his pocket all the evening.” The knave of hearts was, in truth, left after the change on the top of the pack. As you advance to the audience, you palm it, and are thereby enabled to find it without difficulty in the pocket of a spectator, or in any other place which you may choose to designate.

It’s totally possible that the person, whether on purpose or by accident, thought of a different card, like the nine of diamonds, instead of the knave of hearts. Even if that’s the case, you won’t be at a loss, even though the card on the table is incorrect. When the card is mentioned, you say, “The nine of diamonds. Exactly! Let me show you that it’s not in the pack.” Moving closer to the audience and looking through the cards, as you did in the last trick, you pull out the nine of diamonds from behind the other cards and show that it’s apparently not among them. When you flip over the pack, it will be on top. Holding the pack in your left hand, go back to your table, pick up the knave of hearts with your right hand, and without looking at it, say, “Here it is, the nine of diamonds.” Then, with a casual gesture and a slight turn to the right or left to hide the movement, “change” the card using the third method (see page 30), being careful not to show the card after the switch. The audience will naturally shout that the card you just showed isn’t the nine of diamonds. You act surprised and ask, “Oh really, what was it then?” They’ll say, “The knave of hearts.” “The knave of hearts? No way!” you respond, showing the card in your hand, which is now the nine of diamonds. “Actually,” you add, “you couldn’t have seen the knave of hearts, because that guy in the front row has had it in his pocket the whole night.” The knave of hearts was actually left on top of the pack after the switch. As you approach the audience, you palm it, which makes it easy for you to find it in a spectator's pocket or any other place you decide to choose.

It will be observed that the mode here indicated of changing a wrong card into a right one differs from that described in the last trick. Either method will be equally available, but it will be well to practise both, as it is a great desideratum to be able to vary the dénouement of a trick.

It should be noted that the way of changing a wrong card into the right one described here is different from the method explained in the last trick. Both methods will work just as well, but it's a good idea to practice both since it's really valuable to be able to change the ending of a trick.

The course of action above directed in the event of an unexpected card being thought of, may be made available as a means of escape from a break-down in many other cases. Thus, for instance, if you are using a biseauté pack, and a chosen card has been replaced without114 the pack having been previously reversed, or if you have from any other cause accidentally lost the means of discovering a card drawn, you may still bring the trick to an effective termination as follows:—Give the pack to some one to shuffle, and then, drawing a card haphazard, and placing it face downwards on the table, announce boldly that the card drawn is now upon the table. Ask the person to name his card, show apparently that it is not in the pack, and finish the trick in one or other of the modes above described.

The course of action mentioned above, in case an unexpected card comes to mind, can be used as a way out of a breakdown in many other situations. For example, if you’re using a biseauté pack and a selected card has been replaced without the pack being previously reversed, or if you've accidentally lost the means to identify a drawn card for any other reason, you can still finish the trick effectively as follows:—Hand the pack to someone to shuffle, then randomly draw a card and place it face down on the table, confidently stating that the card drawn is now on the table. Ask the person to name their card, show that it seems not to be in the pack, and complete the trick in one of the ways described above.

A Card having been Drawn and Returned, and the Pack shuffled, to divide the Pack into several heaps on the Table, and to cause the Drawn Card to appear in such heap as the Company may Choose.—Invite a person to draw a card. When it is returned, make the pass to bring it to the top. Make a false shuffle, and leave it still at the top. If any of the audience requests to be allowed to shuffle, palm the card, and hand him the pack. When it is returned, again place the card on the top.

A card has been drawn and put back, and the deck has been shuffled to create several piles on the table, making it possible for the drawn card to appear in any pile the group selects.—Invite someone to draw a card. Once it's returned, perform the move to get it back to the top. Do a deceptive shuffle, keeping it on top. If anyone in the audience wants to shuffle, secretly hold the card, and give them the deck. When they return it, place the card back on top again.

Taking the cards in the right hand, face downwards, drop them, in packets of four or five cards each, on the table, noting particularly where you place the last packet (on the top of which is the chosen card). Ask the audience in which of the heaps they would like the chosen card to appear, and when they have made their choice, pick up all the other packets and place them in the left hand, placing the packet on which is the chosen card at the top. Divide the chosen packet into two, and bid the audience again choose between these, placing the cards of the non-chosen packet below the pack in the left hand. If the packet still remaining will admit of it, divide it into two again, but endeavour so to arrange matters that the packet ultimately chosen shall consist of two cards only, concealing however from the audience the precise number of cards in the packet. When you have reached this stage of the trick, palm the drawn card, which we will suppose to have been the ace of diamonds, and picking up with the same hand the chosen packet, secretly place that card on the top. Place the three cards face downwards side by side, the ace of diamonds in the middle, and ask the audience which of the three they desire to become the card originally drawn. If they choose the middle card, the trick is already done, and after asking the person to name115 his card, and showing that neither of the two outside ones is the card in question, you turn up the ace of diamonds.

Taking the cards in your right hand, face down, drop them in groups of four or five onto the table, making sure to pay attention to where you place the last group (the one with the chosen card on top). Ask the audience which pile they want the chosen card to appear in, and once they've made their choice, pick up all the other piles and put them in your left hand, with the pile that has the chosen card on top. Split the chosen pile into two and ask the audience to pick between them, placing the cards from the pile they didn’t choose below the pack in your left hand. If the remaining pile is suitable, divide it into two again, but try to arrange it so that the final chosen pile only has two cards, while keeping the exact number hidden from the audience. When you get to this point in the trick, secretly hold the drawn card, which we’ll say is the ace of diamonds, and pick up the chosen pile, placing that card on top without anyone noticing. Lay out the three cards face down side by side, with the ace of diamonds in the middle, and ask the audience which of the three they think is the card they originally picked. If they pick the middle card, the trick is complete. After asking the person to name115 their card, and revealing that neither of the two outside cards is the card in question, you turn over the ace of diamonds.

If the choice falls on either of the outside cards, gather together all three, without showing them (the ace still being in the middle) and ask some one to blow on them. Then deal them out again in apparently the same order as before, but really deal the second for the first, so as to bring that card into the place of the card indicated. Then, after showing the two other cards as above directed, finally turn up the ace of diamonds, and show that it is the card originally chosen.

If the choice lands on one of the outside cards, collect all three without showing them (with the ace still in the middle) and ask someone to blow on them. Then deal them out again in what appears to be the same order as before, but actually deal the second card in place of the first, so that it takes the place of the indicated card. After showing the other two cards as directed, finally reveal the ace of diamonds and show that it's the card that was originally chosen.

To change a drawn Card into the Portraits of several of the Company in succession.—For the purpose of this trick you will require a forcing pack of similar pattern to your ordinary pack, but consisting throughout of a single card, say the seven of clubs. You must also have half-a-dozen or more sevens of clubs of the same pattern, on the faces of which you must either draw or paste small caricature portraits, after the manner of Twelfth Night characters; which should be of such a kind as to excite laughter without causing offence. You arrange your pack beforehand as follows:—On the top place a fancy portrait, say of a young lady; then a seven of clubs, then a fancy portrait of a gentleman, then a seven of clubs; another fancy portrait of a lady, another seven of clubs, and so on; so that the first eight or ten cards of the pack shall consist of alternate portraits and sevens of clubs (the top card of all being a lady’s portrait), and the rest of the pack of sevens of clubs only.

To transform a drawn Card into the Portraits of multiple people one after another.—For this trick, you'll need a forcing deck that looks like your regular deck but is made up entirely of one card, like the seven of clubs. You'll also need six or more sevens of clubs that match in style, and on the faces of these, you should either draw or attach small caricature portraits, in the style of Twelfth Night characters; these should be humorous but not offensive. You should prepare your deck in advance as follows:—On top, place a fancy portrait, like that of a young lady; then a seven of clubs, followed by a fancy portrait of a gentleman, then another seven of clubs; another fancy portrait of a lady, another seven of clubs, and so on; so that the first eight or ten cards in the deck alternate between portraits and sevens of clubs (with the very top card being a lady’s portrait), and the rest of the deck consists only of sevens of clubs.

Secretly exchange the prepared pack for that which you have been using. Invite a young lady to draw, taking care to offer that part of the pack which consists of sevens of clubs only, so that the card she draws will, of necessity, be a seven of clubs. You then say, when she has looked at the card, “Will you now be kind enough to return that card to the pack, when I will paint your portrait on it.” You open the cards bookwise, about the middle of the pack, for her to return the card, and when she has done so, request her to breathe on it. As she does so, you “slip” (see page 35) the top card of the pack on to that which she has just replaced, and on examining that card (which she takes to be the one she has just seen) she is116 surprised to find that it is still a seven of clubs, but adorned with a more or less flattering likeness of herself. You continue, after the portrait has been handed round and replaced, “I would willingly give you this portrait to take home, but, unfortunately, being only a magical picture, the likeness fades very quickly. Will you oblige me by breathing on it once more, when you will find that the likeness will vanish, and the card will again be as it was at first.” On her doing so, you again slip the top card (which is now an ordinary seven), on to the portrait, and on again examining, the lady is compelled to admit that the card is again as she first drew it. You then offer to paint on the same card a gentleman’s likeness, and proceed as before, each time after taking a likeness changing it back again to an ordinary seven, which adds greatly to the effect of the trick.

Secretly swap the prepared deck for the one you’ve been using. Ask a young lady to draw a card, making sure to hand her only the part of the deck that contains sevens of clubs, so she will definitely draw a seven of clubs. After she looks at the card, say, “Would you be so kind as to return that card to the deck, and I’ll paint your portrait on it?” Open the cards in the middle for her to place the card back, and once she’s done, ask her to breathe on it. As she does that, you “slip” (see page 35) the top card of the deck onto the one she just returned. When she examines that card (which she believes to be the one she just saw), she will be surprised to find it’s still a seven of clubs, but now has a flattering picture of herself. After handing the portrait around and putting it back, continue by saying, “I would love to give you this portrait to take home, but unfortunately, since it’s just a magical picture, the likeness fades quickly. Would you please breathe on it one more time, and you’ll see the likeness vanish, leaving the card as it was at first?” When she does, you slip the top card (now a regular seven) onto the portrait again, and when she examines it, she has to admit that the card is back to the way she first drew it. Then, you offer to paint a gentleman’s likeness on the same card and proceed as before, each time changing it back to an ordinary seven after taking a likeness, which makes the trick even more effective.

You may, if you please, use allegorical instead of caricature portraits; e.g., for a young lady, a rose-bud; for a conceited young man, a poppy or dandelion, or a donkey’s head. It is hardly necessary to observe that nothing short of very close intimacy would excuse the use of any portrait of a disparaging or satirical nature.

You can, if you want, use symbolic instead of exaggerated portraits; e.g., for a young woman, a rosebud; for a full-of-himself young man, a poppy or dandelion, or a donkey's head. It's important to note that only a very close relationship would justify the use of any portrait that is unflattering or mocking.

A Card having been drawn and returned, and the Pack shuffled, to place on the Table six Rows of six Cards each, and to discover the chosen Card by a throw of the Dice.—The effect of this surprising trick is as follows:—You invite a person to draw a card, allowing him the utmost freedom of selection. You allow the drawer to replace his card in any part of the pack he pleases, and you thoroughly shuffle the cards, finally inviting him to “cut.” Then dealing out six rows of six cards each, face downwards on the table, you offer the drawer a dice-box and a pair of dice, and after he has thrown any number of times to satisfy himself that the dice are fair and unprepared, you invite him to throw each singly, the first to ascertain the row in which his card is, and the second to discover at what number it stands in the row. He throws, say, “six” first, and “three” afterwards, and on examination the card he drew proves to be the third card of the sixth row.

Once a card has been drawn and put back, and the deck shuffled, you set up six rows of six cards each on the table, trying to identify the selected card by rolling the dice.—The outcome of this impressive trick is as follows:—You invite someone to draw a card, giving them complete freedom to choose. They can place their card back anywhere in the deck, which you shuffle thoroughly before inviting them to "cut" the deck. Then, you deal six rows of six cards face down on the table. You hand the drawer a dice box and a pair of dice, and after they roll several times to confirm that the dice are fair, you ask them to roll each die one at a time—first to find out which row their card is in, and second to determine its position within that row. For example, they might roll a “six” first and a “three” second, revealing that the card they drew is the third card in the sixth row.

The whole mystery consists in the use of a forcing pack, all the cards of which are alike, and which must not consist of a less number than thirty-six cards. The dice are perfectly fair, but as each card117 of each row is the same, it is a matter of perfect indifference what numbers are thrown. It is advisable to gather up all the other cards, and to request the person to name his card, before allowing the one designated by the dice to be turned up. This will draw the attention of the company to the card on the table, and will give you the opportunity to re-exchange the cards you have used for an ordinary pack (from which, by the way, the card answering to the forced card should have been withdrawn). This pack you may carelessly leave on the table; so that in the event of suspicion attaching to the cards, it will be at once negatived by an examination of the pack.

The whole trick relies on using a forcing pack, where all the cards are the same, and it must have at least thirty-six cards. The dice are completely fair, but since each card in a row is identical, it doesn’t matter what numbers are rolled. It’s a good idea to collect all the other cards and ask the person to name their card before revealing the one indicated by the dice. This will focus everyone’s attention on the card on the table and give you the chance to switch the cards you used back for a regular deck (from which, by the way, the card matching the forced card should have been removed). You can casually leave this deck on the table so that if anyone gets suspicious about the cards, that suspicion will be immediately dismissed when they examine the deck.

The trick may be varied by using a teetotum, numbered from one to six, instead of the dice; or you may, if you prefer it, make the trick an illustration of second sight, by pretending to mesmerize some person in the company, and ordering him to write down beforehand, while under the supposed mesmeric influence, the row and number at which the drawn card shall be found. The mode of conducting the trick will be in either case the same.

The trick can be changed by using a spinning top, numbered one to six, instead of dice; or if you like, you can turn the trick into an example of second sight by pretending to mesmerize someone in the group and asking them to write down, while under the supposed trance, the row and number where the chosen card will be. The way you perform the trick will be the same in either case.

A Card having been withdrawn and replaced, to call it from the Pack, and to make it come to you of its own accord.—This is a very simple trick, but, if neatly executed, will create a good deal of wonderment. It is performed as follows:—You must procure beforehand a long hair from a lady’s head. One end of this must be fastened by means of a bent pin, or in any other way you find most convenient, to the front of your waistcoat, which should be a dark one. At the other end of the hair fix a little round ball (about half the size of a pepper-corn) of bees’-wax. Press this little ball lightly against the lowest button of your waistcoat, to which it will adhere. You will thus always be able to find it at a moment’s notice, without groping or looking down for it, which would be likely to draw the eyes of the spectator in the same direction.

A card has been drawn and returned to the deck, allowing it to come to you by itself.—This is a really simple trick, but if done well, it will amaze people. Here's how to perform it: You need to get a long hair from a woman's head ahead of time. One end of the hair should be attached with a bent pin or another method you find convenient to the front of your dark waistcoat. At the other end of the hair, attach a small round ball (about half the size of a peppercorn) made of beeswax. Lightly press this little ball against the lowest button of your waistcoat, and it will stick there. This way, you can always find it quickly without fumbling around or looking down, which might draw the spectator’s attention to that direction.

Request the audience to examine the cards, that they may be sure that there is no preparation about them, and as a further proof get two or three persons to shuffle them in succession. When the cards are returned to you, invite some person to draw one, and, while he is examining it, drop your right hand carelessly to your waistband, and118 remove the little ball of wax to the tip of your right thumb, to which it will adhere without interfering with the movements of the hand. When the card is returned, make the pass to bring it to the top of the pack, and press the little ball of wax upon the back of the card, as near the edge as possible. Then shuffle the cards. The shuffle may be a genuine one, but you must take care to keep the lower edge of the chosen card half an inch or so below the remaining cards, that the little ball of wax may not be disturbed. The chosen card will, after the shuffle, be in the middle of the pack, but attached to your waistcoat by the hair. Spread the cards face upwards on the table (by which means the wax, being on the back of the card, will be out of sight), taking care not to detach the hair. You then address your audience to the following or some similar effect:—“In the old style of conjuring, I should merely have picked out your card, and handed it to you; and there was a time when people would have thought that a very good trick, but nowadays we should regard that as a very lame conclusion. I can assure you that I have not the smallest idea what your card was. How do you suppose I intend to find out?” Various guesses are hazarded, but you shake your head at each. “No,” you continue, “my process is much simpler than any you have suggested. I shall merely order the card you chose to walk out of the pack, and come to me.” Pronounce any magic formula you like, at the same time beckoning to the cards, and gradually withdrawing yourself away from the table, when the card must needs follow you. As it reaches the edge of the table, receive it in the left hand, and then take it in the right, drawing off with the first finger and thumb of the left hand the wax at the back. Ask the person who drew whether that was his card, and again hand the card and the rest of the pack for examination. This little trick, though simple, will require a good deal of practice to enable you to perform it neatly, but the effect produced by it will well repay your trouble.

Request the audience to check the cards to ensure they're not rigged, and as further proof, have two or three people shuffle them one after another. When the cards are handed back to you, invite someone to draw one. While they're looking at it, let your right hand casually drop to your waistband and move the small ball of wax to the tip of your right thumb, where it will stick without disrupting your hand movements. When the card is returned, make a motion to bring it to the top of the deck and press the wax ball onto the back of the card, as close to the edge as possible. Then shuffle the cards. The shuffle can be genuine, but be careful to keep the bottom edge of the chosen card about half an inch below the other cards so the wax stays in place. After the shuffle, the chosen card will be in the middle of the deck, but attached to your vest by the hair. Spread the cards face up on the table (so the wax on the back of the card is hidden), making sure to keep the hair attached. Address your audience with the following or a similar statement: “In traditional magic, I would have just picked out your card and handed it to you; there was a time people would have thought that was a great trick, but nowadays we see that as a weak ending. I promise I have no idea what your card was. How do you think I’m going to figure it out?” Various guesses will be made, but you shake your head at each. “No,” you say, “my method is much simpler than any of your suggestions. I’ll just command the card you chose to walk out of the deck and come to me.” Use any magical phrase you prefer while signaling to the cards and slowly moving away from the table, making the card follow you. When it reaches the edge of the table, catch it in your left hand, then switch it to your right, using your left thumb and forefinger to remove the wax from the back. Ask the person who drew the card if that’s theirs, and then return the card and the rest of the deck for them to check. This simple trick requires quite a bit of practice to perform smoothly, but the result will be well worth your effort.

It may be well to mention, once for all, as bees’-wax is an article of frequent use in magical operations, that if, as sometimes happens, the pure wax is found too hard, or not sufficiently adhesive, the addition of a small quantity (say an eighth part) of Venice turpentine, mixed with it in a melted condition, will make it all that can be desired.

It’s worth mentioning, just to clarify, that since beeswax is commonly used in magical practices, if the pure wax is sometimes too hard or not sticky enough, adding a small amount (about one-eighth) of Venice turpentine, mixed in while melted, will improve it significantly.

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The Whist Trick.H Improved Method. To deal yourself all the Trumps, the three other Players holding the usual mixed Hands.—Having decided which suit (suppose diamonds) is to be the trump suit, arrange the pack in such manner that every fourth card shall be of that suit, the intervening cards being taken haphazard. When about to perform the trick, secretly exchange the pack you have hitherto been using for the prepared pack. Make the bridge (see page 39), and then a false shuffle by the third method (see page 24). Invite some one to cut, and make the pass at the bridge, thus restoring the cards to their original condition. Deal in the usual manner, when you will be found to hold all the trumps, the remaining suits being distributed in the ordinary way among the other three players.

The Whist Trick.__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ Enhanced Technique. Deal yourself all the trumps, while the other three players have their typical mixed hands.—After deciding which suit (let's say diamonds) will be the trump suit, arrange the deck so that every fourth card is from that suit, while the other cards are placed randomly. When you’re ready to perform the trick, secretly swap the deck you’ve been using with the prepared one. Create the bridge (see page 39), then do a false shuffle using the third method (see page 24). Invite someone to cut the deck, and perform the pass at the bridge, restoring the cards to their original order. Deal as usual, and you will find that you have all the trumps, with the other suits distributed normally among the three other players.

H For an inferior form of this trick, in which sleight-of-hand is not employed, see page 51.

H For a simpler version of this trick that doesn't use sleight-of-hand, see page 51.

Where in this or any other trick it is found necessary to change one pack for another, the following will be found the neatest way of effecting that object. Have the prepared pack in the pochette on the left side. Hold the ordinary pack in the right hand, and in moving from the audience to your table, drop the left hand to the pochette, seize the prepared pack, bring the hands together, and make the pass with the two packs, when they will have changed hands. Drop the left hand, and get rid of the ordinary pack into the profonde, the prepared pack being left in the right hand. Any little clumsiness in making the pass is of small consequence, the hands being covered by the body. If, however, you find it impossible to make the pass with so large a bulk of cards, the prepared pack may be placed under the waistband, held in position by a strap of half-inch-wide elastic, stitched to the inside of the vest; the right hand in this case, at the moment of the turn to the table, transferring the ordinary pack to the left, and immediately drawing down the prepared pack, while the left hand, as in the former case, drops the ordinary pack into the profonde.

Wherever in this or any other trick it's necessary to switch one deck for another, the following method is the simplest way to do it. Keep the prepared deck in the pochette on your left side. Hold the regular deck in your right hand, and while moving from the audience to your table, drop your left hand to the pochette, grab the prepared deck, bring your hands together, and make the switch with the two decks, so they change hands. Drop your left hand to dispose of the regular deck into the profonde, leaving the prepared deck in your right hand. Any minor awkwardness in making the switch isn't a big deal since your hands are covered by your body. However, if you find it hard to make the switch with such a large number of cards, you can place the prepared deck under your waistband, secured by a half-inch-wide elastic strap stitched to the inside of your vest; in this case, at the moment you turn to the table, transfer the regular deck to your left hand and immediately pull down the prepared deck, while your left hand, as before, drops the regular deck into the profonde.


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CHAPTER V.
Card Tricks Needing Special Tools.

We propose to describe in this chapter such card tricks as require the aid of some mechanical appliance or apparatus, but are still appropriate for a drawing-room performance. There are some few tricks performed with cards (such as the Fairy Star, the Demon’s Head, and the like) which necessitate the use of a mechanical table, or other apparatus of an elaborate and costly character. These will not be here noticed, but will be given, at the close of the work, in the portion devoted to Stage Tricks.

We plan to discuss in this chapter card tricks that need some mechanical device or equipment, yet are suitable for a living room performance. There are a few card tricks (like the Fairy Star, the Demon’s Head, and similar ones) that require a mechanical table or other complex and expensive equipment. These will not be covered here but will be included at the end of the book in the section dedicated to Stage Tricks.

We may here anticipate a not unlikely question on the part of the student—viz., “How can I best obtain the necessary apparatus?” In some instances, an amateur with a mechanical turn may be able to manufacture his appliances for himself; and where this is the case, we would by no means discourage his doing so, as he will thereby derive a double amusement from his study of the magic art. But where the student has not the ability or inclination to do this, we should strongly advise him not to attempt to have his apparatus made to order by persons unaccustomed to this class of work, but to go direct to one or other of the regular depôts. Magical apparatus requires so much precision in its details, and so much attention to apparent trifles, that the first attempt of any workman, however skilful, is almost sure to be a failure; and by the time the defects are rectified, the purchaser will find that he has paid more for a clumsy makeshift than he would have done for a thoroughly good article had he gone to the right quarter. Experience will quickly prove that inferior apparatus is dear at any price.

We can anticipate a common question from students: “How can I best get the necessary equipment?” In some cases, a hobbyist with a knack for mechanics might be able to create their own tools, and if that's the case, we definitely encourage them to do so, as it adds to the enjoyment of learning this magical art. However, if a student doesn’t have the skills or desire to make their own, we strongly recommend that they avoid having their equipment custom-made by people unfamiliar with this kind of work and instead go straight to a reputable supplier. Magical tools require a lot of precision and attention to detail, so the first attempt by any skilled worker is likely to be unsuccessful. By the time corrections are made, the buyer may end up paying more for a poorly made item than they would have for a high-quality one if they had gone to the right place. Experience will quickly show that cheap equipment is expensive at any price.

121 Peck & Snyder, 124 Nassau Street, New York City, are the largest manufacturers, importers, and dealers in sports, pastimes, and trick materials. They will forward illustrated catalogues on application, giving details of an infinite variety of Optical, Chemical, Mechanical, Magnetical, and Magical Experiments, and ingenious deceptions. Supplementary sheets are issued from time to time, giving descriptions of new novelties. One peculiarity of their business is that every purchaser is taught, by the very explicit instructions that accompany each article and by correspondence, to perform whatever Tricks he may buy, so that he may exhibit them with ease and without fear of detection, and no trouble is spared in order to make him perfect in what he purchases. Prices are generally low: where a seemingly high price occurs the professor or skilled amateur will readily realize that it is occasioned by the elaborateness of the mechanism of the particular apparatus desired, and the cost that such precision in manipulative manufacture involves. The purchaser—we speak from personal experience—can always depend on receiving uniform courtesy, good value, and sound practical instruction.

121 Peck & Snyder, 124 Nassau Street, New York City, are the biggest manufacturers, importers, and sellers of sports, games, and magic supplies. They will send illustrated catalogs upon request, detailing countless Optical, Chemical, Mechanical, Magnetic, and Magical Experiments, along with clever tricks. They also release supplementary sheets periodically that describe new items. One unique aspect of their business is that every buyer receives clear instructions with each item and support via correspondence, enabling them to perform any tricks they purchase easily and without worry about being caught. They go to great lengths to ensure customers excel in what they buy. Prices are generally reasonable; if a price seems high, a knowledgeable buyer will understand that it's due to the complexity of the mechanism of the specific item and the cost involved in creating such precision. The buyer—we speak from personal experience—can always count on consistent courtesy, great value, and solid practical guidance.

The novice must be warned against imagining that, when he has got into the region of apparatus, the necessity for personal address and dexterity will be diminished. On the contrary, there is hardly a trick among those we are about to describe which does not demand more or less practical knowledge of sleight-of-hand. We shall assume, in the following pages, that the reader has carefully followed and studied the directions already given, in which case he will find little difficulty in this portion of the work.

The beginner should be careful not to think that once they're in the realm of equipment, they won't need personal skills and precision. On the contrary, nearly every trick we'll describe requires a good amount of hands-on sleight-of-hand knowledge. We will assume, in the following pages, that the reader has thoroughly followed and studied the instructions already provided, in which case they will find little trouble with this section of the work.

The Magic Sword. A Card being drawn and replaced, and the Pack flung in the Air, to catch the chosen Card on the point of the Sword.—We have already described a trick somewhat similar in effect, in which, the pack being flung in the air, the chosen card is caught in the hand of the performer. The trick in this form makes a very good prelude to the still more surprising one which we are about to describe.

The Magic Sword. A card is drawn and then put back, and the deck is tossed into the air to catch the selected card on the tip of the sword.—We have already described a trick that has a somewhat similar effect, where the deck is tossed into the air and the chosen card is caught in the performer's hand. This version of the trick serves as a great introduction to the even more astonishing one that we're about to explain.

Fig. 41. Fig. 42. Fig. 43.

It will be remembered, that, in the trick above mentioned, an ordinary pack is used, and the spectator is allowed to draw whatever card he pleases. The card, when returned, is brought to the top by122 the pass, and palmed: and, though supposed to be caught amid the falling shower, in reality never leaves the hand of the performer. The audience may possibly have a suspicion of this, and you may hear a faint murmur to the effect that “he had the card in his hand!” and so on. When this occurs, it serves as a very natural introduction to the trick with the sword. You say, “Ah! you fancy I had the card in my hand? I will repeat the trick, in order to show you that you are mistaken. Will some one be kind enough to draw another card? Thank you. Don’t return the card to me, but put it back in the pack yourself. Now be kind enough to shuffle thoroughly. You cannot say I have the card in my hand this time, at all events. Excuse me one instant, while I fetch my magic sword.” You go behind your screen, and return, holding in your hand a drawn sword. You place yourself in fencing attitude, and, addressing the person who holds the cards, say, “I am going to give you the words, one! two! three! At the word ‘three!’ will you please throw the cards in the air, so as to fall lightly on the point of my sword, when I will pick out with the point the identical card you drew. Spread the cards a little in a fan shape before you throw them, so that I may get a fair123 sight of them. Are you ready? One, two, THREE!” At the word three, the cards are thrown, the performer makes a lunge among them, and a card is instantly seen fluttering on the point of the sword, and, on examination, is found to be the very card which was drawn.

It should be noted that, in the trick mentioned earlier, a regular deck of cards is used, and the spectator can choose any card they want. When the card is returned, it's brought to the top by the pass and palmed; even though it seems to be caught in the falling cards, it actually never leaves the magician's hand. The audience might suspect this, and you might hear a soft murmur suggesting, “he had the card in his hand!” When this happens, it provides a natural segue into the sword trick. You say, “Ah! You think I had the card in my hand? I’ll do the trick again to show you that you’re mistaken. Could someone please draw another card? Thank you. Don't give the card back to me; just put it back in the deck yourself. Now, please shuffle thoroughly. You can’t say I have the card in my hand this time, at least. Just a moment while I grab my magic sword.” You go behind your screen and return holding a drawn sword. You take a fencing stance and address the person with the cards, saying, “I’m going to count to three! At the word ‘three!’ please throw the cards into the air so they gently fall onto the tip of my sword, and I’ll pick out the exact card you drew. Spread the cards slightly in a fan shape before you throw them so I can see them clearly. Are you ready? One, two, THREE!” At the word three, the cards are tossed, the performer lunges among them, and a card is instantly seen fluttering on the point of the sword, which, upon inspection, turns out to be the very card that was drawn.

The secret of this surprising feat lies mainly in the sword. This is an ordinary small-sword (see Fig. 41), with a three-sided rapier blade, but altered in a particular way for the purpose of the trick. The tip of the blade (see Fig. 42) is cut off at about a third of an inch distance from the extreme point, and across the concave side of this tip, and also across the corresponding part of the shortened blade, are soldered minute cross-pieces of brass, each bent outwards in the middle, so as to form, with the concavity of the blade, a kind of eye just large enough to admit freely a piece of thin black elastic cord, the other end of which is passed through a similar small hole in the guard of the hilt. The elastic thus lies along the hollow side of the blade, passing through the two “eyes” already mentioned, and is kept in position by a knot at each end. The tension of the elastic holds the moveable tip in its natural position at the end of the blade. It may, however, be drawn away from it in any direction as far as the elastic will permit, but, when released, immediately flies back to its old position. On the same side of the hilt—viz., the side farthest away from the palm of the hand when grasping the sword (see Fig. 43)—is fixed a flat, oblong piece of tin, painted black, with its longer edges folded over about half an inch on each side, in such manner as to form a receptacle for a card.

The secret behind this surprising trick mainly involves the sword. This is a regular small sword (see Fig. 41), featuring a three-sided rapier blade, but modified in a specific way for the trick. The tip of the blade (see Fig. 42) is cut off about a third of an inch from the very end, and across the concave side of this tip, as well as the similar part of the shortened blade, tiny brass cross-pieces are soldered, each bent outward in the middle, creating, with the concavity of the blade, a kind of eye large enough to easily fit a thin black elastic cord. The other end of this cord goes through a similar small hole in the hilt's guard. The elastic runs along the hollow side of the blade, passing through the two "eyes" mentioned before, and is secured in place by a knot at each end. The tension in the elastic keeps the movable tip in its normal position at the end of the blade. However, it can be pulled away in any direction as far as the elastic allows, but when released, it quickly snaps back to its original position. On the same side of the hilt—specifically, the side furthest from the palm of the hand when holding the sword (see Fig. 43)—there is a flat, rectangular piece of tin, painted black, with its longer edges folded over about half an inch on each side, forming a pocket for a card.

Unless you are tolerably expert in forcing, you will also require some forcing cards of the same pattern as the ordinary pack you have in use. These, however, need not be a full pack, a dozen cards alike being amply sufficient for your purpose. You commence your preparations by taking one of the cards of the forcing pack, cut a small slit in its centre with a penknife, and thrust completely through it the moveable tip of the sword (taking care not to enlarge the hole more than absolutely necessary), and place the sword thus prepared out of sight of the audience, but so as to be easily got at when you want it. Have your forcing cards in your pocket, or somewhere where you can lay your hand on them without attracting observation, and your ordinary pack on the table. You may begin by remarking, “Let124 me ask you to take particular notice that I perform this trick with whatever card you choose, not influencing your choice in any way. To show you that I don’t compel you to take any particular card, I will just take a handful of cards from the top of the pack” (as you say this you place your forcing cards, which you have previously palmed, for an instant on the top of the ordinary pack, immediately taking them off again, as if they had formed part of it, and were the handful of cards you referred to, and offer them to some one to draw). “Take whichever you please—first card, last card, middle card, it is precisely the same to me. Observe that I don’t attempt to press upon you any particular card, but hold the cards perfectly motionless while you make your choice.” As soon as a card is drawn, without waiting for it to be replaced, return to your table, holding the remaining forcing cards in your left hand. Pick up the pack with your right hand. Place it on the cards in your left hand, at the same moment making the pass to bring these cards to the top. Palm these (with the right hand), and, dropping them into your profonde, or elsewhere out of sight, advance with the pack to the person who drew, and request him to replace his card, and shuffle thoroughly. While he does so, you retire to fetch your sword, as before mentioned. Before returning to the audience, you prepare it as follows:—Taking it in your right hand in the ordinary manner, you draw down with the other hand the pierced card, and slide the card endways into the receptacle on the hilt. The elastic, which is now stretched to double its ordinary length, will pull at the card pretty tightly; but you retain it in position by pressing on the face of the card with the second and third fingers of the hand that grasps the hilt. Having done this, you return to the audience, taking care so to stand that the back of the hand that holds the sword shall be towards them. When the cards are flung in the air, as already described, you make a lunge among them, and at the same moment relax the pressure of the fingers on the pierced card. The elastic, being thus released, flies rapidly back to its original position, and carries the moveable tip, and with it the card, to the end of the blade, by which the card appears to be transfixed, as in Fig. 41. The movement of the sword in the lunge, coupled with that of the falling cards, completely covers the rapid flight of the pierced card from hilt to point. To get the card off the sword,125 pull it down the blade, and tear it roughly off. When you have taken off the card, drop the point of the sword, and hand the card at once to the drawer for examination. This serves to divert attention, not only from the sword itself, but also from the cards scattered on the ground, among which the one actually drawn still remains.

Unless you are fairly skilled in forcing, you'll need some forcing cards that match the style of the standard deck you’re using. However, you don't need a full set; a dozen identical cards will work just fine. Start preparing by taking one of the forcing cards, cutting a small slit in the center with a knife, and pushing the movable tip of the sword through it (making sure not to widen the hole more than necessary). Keep the prepared sword hidden from the audience but accessible when you need it. Have your forcing cards in your pocket or somewhere discreet, and keep your regular pack on the table. You can begin by saying, “Let me ask you to notice that I'm performing this trick with any card you choose, without influencing your decision at all. To prove that I'm not making you select a specific card, I’ll take a handful of cards from the top of the pack.” (As you say this, briefly place your palmed forcing cards on top of the regular pack, then immediately take them off again as if they were part of it, offering them to someone to choose from.) “Take any card you want—it can be the first card, last card, or a card in the middle; it doesn’t matter to me. See how I’m not trying to push any specific card on you, and I’m keeping the cards completely still while you decide.” Once a card is drawn, without waiting for it to be put back, return to your table, holding the remaining forcing cards in your left hand. Use your right hand to pick up the pack. Place it on top of the cards in your left hand while simultaneously making a move to bring these cards to the top. Palm those cards (with your right hand), and drop them into your pocket or somewhere out of sight, then move towards the person who drew the card, asking them to put their card back and shuffle thoroughly. While they shuffle, go back to retrieve your sword, as mentioned earlier. Before going back to the audience, prepare it as follows: Hold it in your right hand as usual, pull down the pierced card with your other hand, and slide the card into the hilt’s receptacle. The elastic, now stretched to double its length, will pull the card pretty tightly, but keep it in position by pressing down on the face of the card with your second and third fingers on the hand holding the hilt. Once that’s done, return to the audience, making sure to stand with the back of the hand holding the sword facing them. When the cards are tossed into the air, as described before, make a lunge among them and at the same time ease the pressure of your fingers on the pierced card. The elastic will then snap back into place quickly, dragging the movable tip and the card to the end of the blade, making it look like the card is impaled, just as in Fig. 41. The motion of the sword during the lunge, combined with the falling cards, hides the quick movement of the pierced card from the hilt to the tip. To remove the card from the sword, pull it down the blade and tear it off roughly. After you take the card off, lower the tip of the sword and immediately hand the card to the person who drew it for examination. This distracts from both the sword itself and the cards scattered on the ground, including the one that was actually drawn and still remains there.

This trick is sometimes performed with three cards instead of one. The working of the trick is the same, save that you use a forcing pack consisting of three cards repeated, and that in preparing the sword the two first cards which are threaded on the elastic are perforated with holes of such a size, as to allow them, when released, to slide partially down the blade, the first nearly to the hilt, and the second about half way.

This trick is sometimes done with three cards instead of just one. The trick works the same way, except you use a forcing pack that has three cards repeated. When preparing the sword, the first two cards that are threaded on the elastic have holes drilled in them that are large enough to let them slide partway down the blade when released—the first one almost to the hilt, and the second one about halfway.

Fig. 44.

The Rising Cards (La Houlette).—Several Cards having been drawn, returned, and Shuffled, to make them rise spontaneously from the Pack.—This is one of the best of card tricks. The performer advances, pack in hand, to the company. He invites three persons each to draw a card. The cards having been drawn, they are replaced in different parts of the pack, which is thoroughly shuffled. The performer then places the pack in a tin box or case, just large enough to hold it in an upright position. This case is generally in the form of a lyre, open in front and at the top, and supported on a shaft or pillar, twelve or fifteen inches high (see Fig. 44). He then asks each person in succession to call for his card, which is forthwith seen to rise slowly from the pack, without any visible assistance, the performer standing quite apart.

The Rising Cards (La Houlette).—Several cards have been drawn, returned, and shuffled, causing them to rise naturally from the deck.—This is one of the best card tricks. The performer approaches the audience with the pack in hand. He invites three people to each draw a card. Once the cards are drawn, they are put back into different parts of the pack, which is thoroughly shuffled. The performer then places the pack in a tin box or case, just large enough to hold it upright. This case typically has the shape of a lyre, open at the front and top, and stands on a shaft or pillar about twelve to fifteen inches high (see Fig. 44). He then asks each person in turn to call for their card, which is soon seen rising slowly from the pack without any visible assistance, while the performer stands several feet away.

The ingenuity of different professors has added little embellishments of a humorous character. For instance, the performer may remark, addressing one of the persons who drew, “I will not even ask the name of your card, sir. You have only to say, ‘I command the card I drew to appear,’ and you will be obeyed.” He does so, but no effect is produced; the cards remain obstinately motionless. The command is repeated, but with the same result. The performer feigns embarrassment, and says, “I must really apologize for the disobedience of the cards. I cannot tell how it is; they never behaved in this way before. I am afraid I must ask you to name the card, after all, when I will try my own authority.” The126 card proves to have been a queen, say the queen of spades. “Oh,” the performer says, “that quite explains it. Queens are not accustomed to be ordered about in such a peremptory manner. If we try again in becoming language, I dare say we shall be more successful. Let us try the experiment. Say, ‘Will your Majesty oblige the company by appearing?’” Thus propitiated, the card rises instantly. Occasionally a knave is one of the cards drawn, and, when summoned, scandalizes the performer by appearing feet foremost. He is appropriately rebuked, and thrust down again by the professor, upon which he immediately reappears in a proper attitude. Sometimes a card, after coming up half way, begins to retire again, but at the command of the performer starts afresh, and rises completely out of the pack.

The creativity of various professors has added some humorous touches. For example, the performer might say to someone who picked a card, “I won’t even ask what your card is, sir. All you need to do is say, ‘I command the card I picked to appear,’ and it will happen.” The person does this, but nothing happens; the cards stay stubbornly still. The command is repeated, but there’s still no result. The performer pretends to be embarrassed and says, “I really apologize for the cards not cooperating. I’m not sure why this is happening; they’ve never acted like this before. I’m afraid I must ask you to name the card after all, and then I’ll try to use my own authority.” The card turns out to be a queen, let’s say the queen of spades. “Oh,” the performer says, “that explains everything. Queens aren’t used to being bossed around like that. If we try again using polite language, I’m sure we’ll have better luck. Let’s give it a shot. Say, ‘Would Your Majesty kindly appear for the audience?’” With that, the card rises immediately. Sometimes a jack is one of the cards drawn, and when called, it shocks the performer by showing up feet first. It gets a fitting reprimand and is pushed back down by the professor, after which it promptly reappears properly. Occasionally, a card will come up halfway and then start to go back down, but at the performer’s command, it starts over and rises fully out of the deck.

These apparently surprising effects are produced by very simple means. In the first place, the cards which rise from the pack are not those actually drawn, but duplicates of them, arranged beforehand. The performer ensures the corresponding cards being drawn by using a forcing pack, made up of repetitions of the three cards in question, which we will suppose to be the queen of spades, the ten of hearts, and the seven of diamonds, with some other single card at the bottom. The tin case, in the original form of the trick, has two compartments—the one to the front being large enough to hold a complete pack, but the hinder one adapted to contain six or eight cards only. In this hinder compartment are placed six cards, three of them being those which are intended to rise, and the other three indifferent cards. A black silk thread is fastened to the upper edge of the partition between the two compartments, and is thence brought under the foremost card (which is, say, the queen of spades), over the next (an indifferent card), under the third (the ten of hearts), over the fourth (an indifferent card), under the fifth (the seven of diamonds), over the sixth (an indifferent card), finally passing out through a minute hole at the bottom of the hinder compartment. If the thread be pulled, the three cards named will rise in succession, beginning with the hindmost—viz., the seven of diamonds. The three indifferent cards are put in as partitions, or fulcrums, for the thread to run over. If these partitions were omitted, the three chosen cards would rise all together.

These seemingly surprising effects are created by very simple methods. First, the cards that rise from the deck aren't the ones actually drawn; they're duplicates, arranged in advance. The performer makes sure to draw the right cards using a forcing pack made up of multiple copies of the three cards we’ll assume are the queen of spades, the ten of hearts, and the seven of diamonds, with another random card at the bottom. The tin case, in the original version of the trick, has two sections—the front one big enough to hold a full deck, and the back one designed to hold only six or eight cards. In this back section, there are six cards; three are the ones meant to rise, and the other three are random cards. A black silk thread is attached to the top edge of the divider between the two sections and is then brought under the first card (let's say the queen of spades), over the next (a random card), under the third (the ten of hearts), over the fourth (another random card), under the fifth (the seven of diamonds), over the sixth (another random card), and finally exits through a tiny hole at the bottom of the back section. If the thread is pulled, the three named cards will rise one after the other, starting with the last one—the seven of diamonds. The three random cards act as dividers or levers for the thread. If these dividers were removed, all three chosen cards would rise at the same time.

The thread may be drawn in various ways. Sometimes this is127 done by the performer himself, standing behind or beside the table. Another plan is to have the thread attached to a small cylindrical weight within the pillar, which is made hollow, and filled with sand. The weight rests on the sand until the operator desires the cards to rise, when, by moving a trigger at the foot of the pillar, he opens a valve, which allows the sand to trickle slowly down into a cavity at the base; and the weight, being thus deprived of its support, gradually sinks down, and pulls the thread. (The pillar in this case is made about two feet high, as the weight must necessarily travel six times the length of a card.) Others, again, draw the thread by means of a clockwork arrangement in the table, or in the pillar itself, answering the same purpose as the sand and weights. The arrangement which we ourselves prefer, where practicable, is to have the thread drawn by an assistant, who may either be placed behind a screen, or may even stand in full view of the audience, so long as he is at some little distance from the table. The silk thread is quite invisible, if only you have a tolerably dark background. The only portion as to which you need feel any anxiety is that immediately connected with the cards. To conceal this it is well, if you use a special table, to have a small hole bored in the top, through which the thread may pass. The card-stand being placed immediately in front of the hole, the thread will pass perpendicularly downward for the first portion of its length, and will thus be concealed behind the pillar. In default of a hole, a ring of bent wire attached to the table will answer the128 same purpose. The great advantage of having the thread pulled by a living person instead of a mechanical power is, that you can take your own time in the performance of the trick; whereas, if you use a weight or clockwork, there is always a danger of a card beginning to rise before you have called for it, or possibly not rising at all—either contingency being rather embarrassing.

The thread can be pulled in different ways. Sometimes the performer does it themselves, standing behind or beside the table. Another option is to attach the thread to a small cylindrical weight inside a hollow pillar filled with sand. The weight sits on the sand until the operator wants the cards to rise. By moving a trigger at the base of the pillar, a valve opens, allowing the sand to slowly pour into a cavity at the bottom. With the sand gone, the weight gradually sinks and pulls the thread. (The pillar here is about two feet tall since the weight has to move six times the length of a card.) Others use a clockwork mechanism within the table or the pillar itself, serving the same purpose as the sand and weights. Our preferred method, when possible, is to have an assistant pull the thread, who can either be behind a screen or visible to the audience, as long as they’re a bit away from the table. The silk thread is almost invisible if there’s a reasonably dark background. The only part you need to be cautious about is the connection to the cards. To hide this, it's a good idea, if you're using a special table, to drill a small hole in the top for the thread to pass through. Since the card-stand is placed right in front of the hole, the thread goes straight down for the first part of its length, remaining hidden behind the pillar. If you can't drill a hole, a bent wire ring attached to the table will work just as well. The main benefit of having a live person pull the thread instead of using a machine is that you can control the timing of the trick. If you use weights or clockwork, there’s always a risk that a card might start to rise before you’re ready, or it might not rise at all—both of which can be pretty awkward.

In the latest and best form of the trick, the second compartment of the case is dispensed with, and the apparatus may be handed round for examination both before and after it is used. In this case three cards are forced and returned as already mentioned; but the performer, as he reaches his table, adroitly exchanges the forcing pack for another already prepared, and placed on the servante if a regular conjuring-table is used, or, if not, concealed behind some object on the table. This pack is prepared as follows:—The last six cards are arranged with the thread travelling in and out between them, just as the six cards in the hinder compartment were in the older form of the trick. A knot is made in the silk thread, which is hitched into a notch an eighth of an inch deep, made in the lower edge of the sixth card. The knot prevents the thread from slipping, but does not interfere with its being instantaneously detached when, the trick being over, you hand the whole apparatus, cards and all, to be examined.

In the latest and most effective version of the trick, the second compartment of the case is eliminated, allowing the apparatus to be passed around for inspection both before and after it's used. In this version, three cards are forced and returned as previously mentioned; however, as the performer reaches their table, they skillfully swap the forcing pack for another one that's already prepared and placed on the servante if a standard conjuring table is used, or hidden behind some object on the table if not. This pack is prepared as follows: The last six cards are arranged with the thread going in and out between them, just like the six cards in the back compartment in the earlier version of the trick. A knot is tied in the silk thread, which is secured in a notch an eighth of an inch deep on the lower edge of the sixth card. The knot stops the thread from slipping but doesn’t affect its ability to be quickly detached when, after the trick is complete, you hand the entire apparatus, cards and all, for inspection.

Some performers use no stand or pillar for the card-case, but fix it by a short plug projecting for that purpose on its under side, in a decanter of water on the table. Some, again, in order to exclude all apparent possibility of mechanical aid, fasten it on the top of a common broomstick, fixed in the floor of the stage, and broken over the performer’s knee at the conclusion of the trick. To our own taste, the trick is best performed without any special card-case whatever, the pack being placed in an ordinary glass goblet with upright sides, first handed round to the audience for inspection. It is here absolutely self-evident that the glass can give no mechanical assistance; and as the audience know nothing of the exchange of the packs, the immediate rising of the cards at the word of command appears little short of miraculous.

Some performers don’t use a stand or pillar for the card case; instead, they attach it with a small plug on its underside and set it in a decanter of water on the table. Others, to completely eliminate any suggestion of mechanical help, secure it to the top of a regular broomstick that’s fixed to the stage floor, and then break it over their knee at the end of the trick. In our opinion, the trick works best without any special card case at all, using an ordinary glass goblet with straight sides, which is first passed around for the audience to inspect. It’s clear that the glass can’t provide any mechanical support, and since the audience isn’t aware of the pack exchange, the instant rising of the cards with a spoken command seems nothing short of miraculous.

It only remains to explain the modus operandi of the little variations before alluded to. The offended dignity of the queen, declining129 to appear when summoned in too cavalier a manner, is accounted for by the fact that the performer or his assistant refrains from pulling the thread until the offender has adopted a more respectful tone. The phenomenon of the knave first appearing feet foremost, and then invisibly turning himself right end uppermost, is produced by the use of two knaves, the first (i.e., hindmost) being placed upside down, and the second (with an indifferent card between) in its proper position. When the performer pushes the first knave down again, with a request that it will rise in a more becoming attitude, he thrusts it down, not as he appears to do, in the same place which it originally occupied, but among the loose cards forming the front portion of the pack, thus getting it out of the way, and allowing the thread to act on the second knave. It is hardly necessary to observe that, for producing this particular effect, the cards must be of the old-fashioned single-headed pattern. The alternate ascent and descent of a given card is produced by using a card at whose lower edge, between the back and front of the card, is inserted a slip of lead-foil. The card, so weighted, sinks down of itself as soon as the pull of the thread is relaxed, and may be thus made to rise and fall alternately, as often as the operator chooses, and finally, by a quick, sharp jerk, to jump right out of the pack.

It only remains to explain the modus operandi of the little variations mentioned earlier. The queen's insulted dignity, choosing not to show up when called in too casual a way, is due to the performer or their assistant holding back the thread until the offender uses a more respectful tone. The trick where the knave first appears feet first and then turns itself right side up is done with two knaves, the first (i.e., the one at the back) being placed upside down, and the second (with an indifferent card between them) in the right position. When the performer pushes the first knave down again, asking it to rise in a more respectful manner, they are not actually pressing it down in the same spot it originally occupied but rather into the loose cards at the front of the pack, thus clearing it out of the way and allowing the thread to work on the second knave. It's worth noting that to create this particular effect, the cards need to be the old-style single-headed design. The alternating rise and fall of a specific card is created by inserting a slip of lead-foil between the back and front of the card along its lower edge. The weighted card automatically sinks down as soon as the pull of the thread is released, allowing it to rise and fall alternately as often as the operator wants, and finally, with a quick, sharp tug, to jump right out of the pack.

Another very telling incident is the transformation of an eight to a seven, or a seven to a six. A seven of spades, say, has been one of the drawn cards, but when it is summoned an eight of spades appears. The performer apologizes for the mistake, and, giving the card a touch of his wand, shows it instantly transformed to a seven. This is effected by sticking (with a little bees’-wax) a loose spade pip in the appropriate position on an ordinary seven of spades. The performer takes out the supposed eight with one hand, and thence transfers it to the other. In so doing he draws off, with the hand which first held the card, the loose pip, and, holding the card face downwards, touches it with the wand, and shows that it has apparently changed to the card drawn.

Another revealing incident is the change from an eight to a seven or from a seven to a six. Let's say a seven of spades has been one of the drawn cards, but when it's called, an eight of spades appears. The performer apologizes for the error and uses his wand to touch the card, instantly transforming it back to a seven. This is done by sticking a loose spade pip in the right spot on a regular seven of spades with a bit of beeswax. The performer takes out the supposed eight with one hand and then shifts it to the other hand. In doing so, he removes the loose pip with the hand that first held the card, then, while holding the card face down, touches it with the wand, showing that it has seemingly changed to the drawn card.

Fig. 45.

There is a mode of performing the trick of the rising cards entirely without apparatus, and without the necessity of forcing particular cards. The performer in this case invites a person to draw a card, and when it is returned makes the pass to bring it to the top of130 the pack. He then makes a false shuffle, leaving it on the top, and offers the pack to a second person to draw. When he has done so, and before he replaces the card, the performer makes the pass to bring the card first drawn to the middle, so that the second card is placed upon it, and then again makes the pass to bring both together to the top. The process may be repeated with a third card. The three cards are thus left at the top of the pack, that last drawn being the outermost. The performer now asks each person, beginning with the last who drew, to name his card, and, holding the pack upright in his right hand, the thumb on one side, and the third and fourth fingers on the other, with the face of the pack to the audience (see Fig. 45), he causes the cards to rise one by one by pushing them up from the back by an alternate movement of the first and second fingers (which should previously be slightly moistened). If the face of the cards is held fairly to the spectators, it will be impossible for them to discover that the cards do not rise from the middle of the pack.

There’s a way to do the rising cards trick completely without any props and without needing to force specific cards. In this method, the magician asks someone to pick a card. When it’s returned, the magician performs a move to bring that card to the top of130 the deck. Next, he does a false shuffle to leave it on top and invites another person to pick a card. After that person picks a card and before they put it back, the magician performs the move again to place the first card in the middle, so the second card goes on top of it, and then he repeats the move to bring both cards back to the top. This process can be repeated with a third card. Now, the three cards are stacked at the top of the deck, with the last drawn card being the one on the outside. The magician then asks each participant, starting with the last person who picked a card, to name their card. While holding the deck upright in his right hand, with his thumb on one side and his third and fourth fingers on the other, facing the audience (see Fig. 45), he makes the cards rise one by one by pushing them up from the back with alternating movements of his first and second fingers (which should be slightly moistened beforehand). If the front of the cards is held facing the spectators, they won’t be able to tell that the cards aren’t rising from the middle of the deck.

We have been more prolix than we could have desired in the description of this trick, but minute details are the very soul of conjuring. The experience of Horace, “Brevis esse laboro, obscurus fio,” applies with peculiar force to the magic art; and if we occasionally irritate the reader of quick apprehension by too great minuteness, he must remember that we have, as far as we can, to anticipate every possible question, and that a single point left unexplained may render useless an otherwise careful description.

We have been more wordy than we intended in explaining this trick, but the small details are the heart of magic. Horace's experience, “Brevis esse laboro, obscurus fio,” is especially true in the art of magic. If we sometimes annoy the quick-minded reader with too much detail, they need to remember that we must try to answer every possible question, and that leaving just one point unclear could make an otherwise thorough description pointless.

The Jumping Cards.Two or three Cards having been drawn, returned, and shuffled to make them jump out of the Pack.—This trick is somewhat similar in working to that of the rising cards as performed in the hand, which we have just described. The course of the two tricks is precisely the same up to the point when, the two or three cards having been drawn and returned, you131 have got them all to the top of the pack. Here, however, the resemblance ceases. In the present case you drop the whole pack into an open-mouthed box, made for that purpose, and announce that, although the chosen cards have been replaced in different parts of the pack, and the whole have since been thoroughly shuffled, you have only to blow upon them in order to separate them visibly from the rest of the pack. You blow upon the box accordingly, when the chosen cards instantly fly out of the pack, rising to a height of three or four feet, and fall on the table.

The Jumping Cards.Two or three cards are drawn, put back, and shuffled to make them pop out of the deck.—This trick works in a way that’s similar to the rising cards trick we just described. Both tricks follow the same steps until the point where, after drawing and returning two or three cards, you131 get them all to the top of the pack. However, this is where the similarity ends. In this case, you drop the entire pack into a specially designed box and announce that, even though the chosen cards have been placed in different spots in the pack and everything has been thoroughly shuffled, you just need to blow on them to visibly separate them from the rest of the cards. You then blow into the box, and the chosen cards instantly shoot out, rising three or four feet before landing on the table.

Fig. 47. Fig. 46. Fig. 48.

The secret of the trick, apart from the sleight-of-hand necessary to bring the chosen cards together at the top of the pack, lies in the box. It is in general appearance something like a miniature pedestal for a statue, but hollow, and open at the top, the cavity being rather more than large enough to hold a pack of cards. (See Fig. 46.) It is divided longitudinally into two compartments, the foremost being large enough to hold a whole pack, the hindmost to hold only three or four cards, the partition between the two coming about half way up the box. The bottom of the larger compartment is level with the top of the plinth, but the smaller is open to the whole depth, save that across it is a steel spring about half an inch in width. Fig. 47 represents a section of the apparatus, A being the upper part, of which a is the larger or front compartment, and b the smaller compartment at the back. B is the plinth. A is so constructed as to slide forwards on, or rather in, B, to the132 extent of about an eighth of an inch, but is prevented doing so, in the normal condition of the apparatus, by the spring c, which is screwed to the bottom of A, its free end pressing against the side of the plinth. If, however, the spring be pressed down from above, so as to be below the level of the shoulder d (for which purpose a thin slip of wood is supplied with the apparatus), and A be at the same time pushed towards d, it will slide forward to the position indicated in Fig. 48, and the spring c will be held down beneath the shoulder d. This is the condition in which the apparatus is first exhibited to the audience. After turning it over, to show that there are no cards already concealed in it, the performer places in it the pack, first, however, slipping his little finger between the chosen cards (which are on the top) and the rest of the pack, so as to enable him to drop the chosen cards into the smaller compartment at the back, where they rest upon the bent spring. (See Fig. 48.) Standing behind the box, and placing his hands around the plinth, as if to hold it steady, the fingers of each hand being in front, and the thumb behind, he blows smartly upon the box, at the same moment pushing A forward with the thumbs to the position which it occupies in Fig. 47. The spring c, being drawn back with it beyond the shoulder d, is released, and instantly flies up to its old position, shooting out of the box the cards resting upon it.

The secret of the trick, aside from the sleight-of-hand needed to bring the chosen cards to the top of the deck, is in the box. It generally looks like a small pedestal for a statue, but it's hollow and open at the top, with a cavity that’s more than big enough to hold a deck of cards. (See Fig. 46.) It’s divided lengthwise into two sections, with the front section being large enough for a full deck and the back section only holding three or four cards. The divider between the two parts is about halfway up the box. The bottom of the larger section is level with the top of the base, but the smaller section is open all the way down, except for a steel spring about half an inch wide running across it. Fig. 47 shows a cutaway of the device, with A representing the upper part, where a is the larger front section and b is the smaller back section. B is the base. A is designed to slide forward on, or rather in, B by about an eighth of an inch, but this movement is blocked in the normal position by spring c, which is attached to the bottom of A, with its free end pushing against the side of the base. If the spring is pressed down from above, below the level of the shoulder d (for which a thin piece of wood is provided with the device), and A is pushed towards d, it will slide forward to the position shown in Fig. 48, holding the spring c down under shoulder d. This is the state in which the device is first shown to the audience. After flipping it over to demonstrate that no cards are hidden inside, the performer puts in the deck, but first slips his little finger between the chosen cards (which are on top) and the rest of the deck, allowing him to drop the chosen cards into the smaller back section, where they sit on the bent spring. (See Fig. 48.) Standing behind the box and placing his hands around the base to keep it steady, with the fingers in front and thumbs behind, he blows sharply on the box while simultaneously pushing A forward with his thumbs to the position it occupies in Fig. 47. The spring c, being pulled back with it past shoulder d, is released and instantly shoots back to its original position, launching the cards resting on it out of the box.

This trick is sometimes, like that of the rising cards, worked with a forcing pack, duplicates of the forced cards being placed beforehand in the hinder compartment. This method, however, is very inferior to that above described, and would hardly be adopted by any performer who had acquired a competent mastery of sleight-of-hand.

This trick is sometimes, like the rising cards, done with a forcing pack, where duplicates of the forced cards are placed ahead of time in the back compartment. However, this method is much inferior to the one described above and would hardly be used by any performer who has mastered sleight-of-hand.

To make a Card stand upright by itself on the Table.—This is a little trick of hardly sufficient importance to be performed by itself; but as an incident introduced in the course of some more pretentious illusion, produces a very good effect. A great deal of the sparkle of a conjuring entertainment depends upon the performer’s readiness in what may be called “by-play,” consisting of a number of minor tricks not supposed to form part of the settled programme, but merely introduced incidentally, and used, as it were, as a garnish to133 the more important feats. Thus, when a coin, an egg, or other small article, is required for the purpose of a trick, the performer may fetch it openly from behind the scenes, or have it handed to him by his servant; but this is a commonplace proceeding. The higher class of performers prefer in such cases to produce the article from the hair, whiskers, or pocket of one of the audience; and in like manner, when the article has served its purpose, to make it vanish by some magical process, rather than by the prosaic methods of every-day life. These little incidents serve to keep the audience on the qui vive, and they further assist materially in keeping up the continuity of an entertainment. In a thoroughly good performance the audience should have no time to think, but should be led direct from one surprise to the contemplation of another.

To make a card stand up by itself on the table.—This is a small trick that’s not significant enough to stand alone; however, when included as part of a more elaborate illusion, it has a great effect. A lot of the appeal of a magic show relies on the performer’s ability to add in what can be called “by-play,” which consists of minor tricks not part of the main program but used as a sort of enhancement to133 the more impressive acts. For example, when a coin, egg, or other small object is needed for a trick, the performer might openly retrieve it from backstage or have someone bring it to him; but that’s a standard approach. More skilled performers prefer to produce the item from the hair, beard, or pocket of an audience member; similarly, when the item is no longer needed, they aim to make it disappear in a magical way instead of using mundane methods. These little touches keep the audience alert and also help maintain the continuity of the show. In a truly great performance, the audience shouldn’t have time to think; they should be taken straight from one surprise to the next.

The trick we are about to describe is of the class above alluded to. In the course of one or other of your card tricks, you have or make occasion to ask some person to go and place a given card on the table, or to examine a card already placed there. He does so, and is about to return to his place; but you check him. “No, sir, that won’t do. I want everybody to see what card it is. Will you be good enough to stand it up on end, with its face to the company, so that everybody can see it.” He looks foolish, and finally says that he can’t do it. “Not do it?” you reply. “My dear sir, it’s the simplest thing in the world. Allow me!” and taking the card from him, you place it upright on the table, and leave it standing without any visible support. Taking it up again, you hand it round, to show that there is no preparation about it, and on receiving it back, again stand it upright, but with the other end upwards; or, if challenged, allow the audience themselves to choose a card, which you cause to stand alone with equal facility.

The trick we're about to describe is part of the category mentioned earlier. While performing one of your card tricks, you may ask someone to place a specific card on the table or to examine a card already there. They do so and are about to return to their spot, but you stop them. “No, sir, that won’t work. I want everyone to see what card it is. Can you please stand it up vertically, with the face toward the audience, so everyone can see it?” They look a bit awkward and eventually say they can’t do it. “Can’t do it?” you respond. “Come on, it's the easiest thing in the world. Let me do it!” You take the card from them, place it upright on the table, and leave it standing without any visible support. After picking it up again, you pass it around to show there’s nothing special about it, and once it’s back in your hands, you stand it upright again, but with the other end facing up; or, if someone questions it, you let the audience pick a card, which you also make stand on its own just as easily.

Fig. 49.

The secret lies in the use of a very small and simple piece of apparatus, being, in fact, merely a strip of tin or sheet brass, an inch and a half in length, and five-eighths of an inch in width, bent at a shade less than a right angle—say 85°; its shorter arm being one-third of its length. On the outer surface of the long arm is spread a thin layer of bees’-wax (made more adhesive by the addition of a small portion of Venice turpentine), and to the inner surface of the shorter arm is soldered a small piece of lead, about an eighth of an inch134 thick. When you desire to perform the trick, you have this little appliance concealed in your right hand, the longer arm between the first and second fingers, and the shorter arm pointing towards the little finger. Picking up the card with the left hand, you transfer it to the right, taking hold of it in such manner that the fingers shall be behind and the thumb in front of the card. As you place the card on the table (which, by the way, must be covered with a cloth), you press against it (see Fig. 49) the waxed side of the slip of tin, which will slightly adhere to it, and thus form a prop or foot, the little lump of lead acting as a counterpoise to the weight of the card. You pick it up with the same hand, and as you transfer it to the other, you will find no difficulty in removing and secreting between the fingers the little prop.

The secret is in using a very small and simple piece of equipment, which is just a strip of tin or sheet brass, an inch and a half long and five-eighths of an inch wide, bent at just under a right angle—about 85°; its shorter arm is one-third of its length. On the outer surface of the long arm, there’s a thin layer of beeswax (made stickier by adding a bit of Venice turpentine), and a small piece of lead, about an eighth of an inch thick, is soldered to the inner surface of the shorter arm. When you want to perform the trick, keep this little tool hidden in your right hand, with the longer arm between your first and second fingers and the shorter arm pointing toward your little finger. To begin, pick up the card with your left hand, then transfer it to your right hand, holding it so your fingers are behind and your thumb is in front of the card. As you place the card on the table (which should have a cloth covering it), press the waxed side of the strip of tin against it (see Fig. 49), which will stick slightly to the card and create a support or foot, with the little lump of lead balancing the card's weight. You then pick it up with the same hand, and as you move it to the other hand, you'll easily be able to remove and hide the little support between your fingers.

If the wax is properly amalgamated, it should leave no mark on the card.

If the wax is mixed correctly, it shouldn't leave any mark on the card.

Fig. 50.

Changing Card-boxes, and Tricks performed with them.—The changing card-box in its simplest form is a small flat box in walnut or mahogany. (See Fig. 50.) Its outside measurement is four inches by three, and not quite an inch deep. Inside it is just large enough to admit an ordinary-sized playing card. The upper and lower portions of the box, which are connected by hinges, are exactly alike in depth, and each is polished externally, so that the box, which, when open, lies flat like a book, may be closed either way up; and either portion will, according as it is placed, become box or lid135 in turn. Thus, by using a card which, unknown to the audience, has two faces—e.g., is an ace of hearts on the one side, and an ace of spades on the other—and placing such card in one side of the open box, you have only to close the box with that side uppermost, or to turn over the box as you place it on the table, to transform the card just shown into a different one. There is nothing in the appearance of the box itself to indicate that it has been turned, so to speak, wrong side up, and a very little practice will enable you to turn it over, as you place it on the table, without attracting observation.

Changing Card Boxes and Tricks Done with Them.—The changing card box, in its simplest form, is a small flat box made of walnut or mahogany. (See Fig. 50.) It measures four inches by three inches and is less than an inch deep. Inside, it's just big enough to hold a standard playing card. The top and bottom parts of the box, which are connected by hinges, are identical in depth, and each has a polished exterior. This means the box can lie flat like a book when open and can be closed either way up; either side can become the box or lid depending on how it is positioned. By using a card that the audience doesn’t know has two faces—like an ace of hearts on one side and an ace of spades on the other—and placing this card in one side of the open box, you just need to close the box with that side facing up or flip the box as you set it on the table, transforming the card that was just shown into a different one. There’s nothing about the appearance of the box itself to suggest that it has been flipped upside down, and with a little practice, you can easily turn it over while placing it on the table without drawing attention.

There is a further appliance in connection with the box in question, which, however, may be used with or without it, as may best suit the trick in hand. This is a loose slab, a, of the same wood of which the interior of the box is made, of the thickness of cardboard, and of such a size as to fit closely, though not tightly, in either half of the box. When so placed, it has the appearance of the inside top or bottom of the box. When the box is closed in such manner that the part in which this slab is placed is uppermost, the slab falls into the lower portion, thus forming a false bottom on whichever side happens to be undermost. If a card (say the ace of hearts) be secretly placed in either side of the box, and this slab placed on it, the box will appear empty. If now another card (say the knave of spades) be openly placed in either side, and the box closed in such manner that the portion containing the false bottom is undermost, no change will take place; but if, either in closing the box or subsequently, it is so placed that the side containing the false bottom becomes uppermost, the false bottom will at once drop into the opposite division, and on re-opening the box the ace of hearts will be revealed, and the knave of spades will in its turn be concealed. The effect to the spectators is as if the knave of spades had changed into the ace of hearts.

There’s another tool related to the box in question that can be used with or without it, depending on what the trick calls for. This is a loose slab, a, made of the same wood as the inside of the box, about the thickness of cardboard, and sized to fit snugly but not tightly in either half of the box. When placed inside, it looks like the top or bottom of the box's interior. When the box is closed with the part containing this slab on top, the slab drops into the lower section, creating a false bottom on whichever side is facing down. If a card (like the ace of hearts) is secretly placed in either side of the box and this slab is put on top of it, the box will seem empty. If another card (like the knave of spades) is then openly placed in either side, and the box is closed with the side holding the false bottom facing down, nothing will change. However, if when closing the box or later on, the side with the false bottom ends up on top, the false bottom will immediately drop into the opposite side, and when the box is opened again, the ace of hearts will be shown while the knave of spades will be hidden. To the audience, it appears as if the knave of spades has transformed into the ace of hearts.

136 These card-boxes are frequently worked in pairs, as follows:—The boxes are prepared by placing a different card secretly in each, say an ace of hearts in the one, and a knave of spades in the other. The performer brings them forward to the company, each hanging wide open, and held by one corner only, with the first and second finger inside, and the thumb outside the box, taking care, however, to hold each by the side containing the false bottom, which is thus kept in position by the pressure of the fingers. So held, the boxes appear absolutely empty. Having drawn attention to the entire absence of any preparation, the performer lays them open upon the table, and, taking up a pack of cards, requests two of the company each to draw one. They, of course, imagine that they are making a free choice, but in reality he forces (either by sleight-of-hand, or by means of a forcing pack) the ace of hearts and the knave of spades. Again bringing forward the two boxes, he requests each person to place his card in one of them, taking care so to arrange that the person who has drawn the ace of hearts shall place it in the box already containing the concealed knave of spades, and vice versâ. Closing each box with the portion containing the false bottom uppermost, he now announces that at his command the cards will change places, which, on re-opening the boxes, they appear to have done. By again turning over the boxes, they may be made to return to their original quarters.

136 These card boxes are often used in pairs like this: The boxes are set up by secretly placing a different card in each one, like an ace of hearts in one and a jack of spades in the other. The performer presents them to the audience, each box held open by one corner, with the first and second fingers inside and the thumb outside, making sure to hold them by the side with the false bottom, which stays in place due to the fingers' pressure. When held this way, the boxes look completely empty. After emphasizing the lack of any tricks, the performer lays them on the table and takes a deck of cards, asking two people from the audience to each draw one. They think they're making a free choice, but in reality, he forces (either through sleight-of-hand or by using a forcing deck) the ace of hearts and the jack of spades. Bringing the two boxes back, he asks each person to put their card in one of them, making sure that the person with the ace of hearts places it in the box that already holds the hidden jack of spades, and vice versa. After closing each box with the side containing the false bottom facing up, he declares that at his command the cards will swap places, which they seem to have done when he reopens the boxes. By turning the boxes over again, they can be made to go back to their original spots.

Numerous other good tricks may be performed with the aid of these boxes, which should form part of the collection of every conjuror. By placing a given card beforehand beneath the false bottom and forcing a like card, you may allow the card drawn to be torn into twenty pieces, and yet, by placing the fragments in the box, or firing them at it from a pistol, restore the card instantly, as at first. In like manner, you may cause a given card to be found in the apparently empty box, or may cause a card openly placed therein to vanish altogether. The changing-box is also sometimes employed by those who are not proficient in sleight-of-hand, as a substitute for forcing, in the following manner:—The performer requests some person to draw a card, and, without looking at it, to place it face downwards in the box for supposed safe keeping. The box is presently opened by the same or some other person, who is requested to note what the137 card is. He does so, believing the card to be that which was drawn, and which he had just before seen placed in the box; whereas the card he now examines is, in reality, one concealed beforehand in the box by the performer to suit his purpose, the card actually drawn being now hidden by the false bottom.

Many other clever tricks can be done with these boxes, which should be part of every magician's collection. By placing a specific card underneath the false bottom in advance and forcing a matching card, you can let the drawn card be torn into twenty pieces. Then, by putting the pieces in the box or shooting them at it with a pistol, you can instantly restore the card, just as it was. Similarly, you can make a specific card appear from what seems to be an empty box, or make a card placed openly inside it disappear completely. The changing box is also sometimes used by those who aren't skilled in sleight-of-hand as an alternative to forcing. Here’s how it works: The performer asks someone to draw a card and, without looking at it, to place it face down in the box for safekeeping. The box is then opened by the same or another person, who is asked to identify the card. They do so, thinking it’s the card that was drawn and just placed in the box, while the card they’re now examining is actually one that was secretly hidden in the box by the performer to fit their plan, with the actual drawn card concealed by the false bottom.

Fig. 51. Fig. 52.

The Mechanical Card-box.—This also is a piece of apparatus for changing a chosen card to another. It is somewhat the same in principle as the card-boxes last described, but differs from them a good deal in detail. It is an oblong wooden box, in external measurement about four and a half inches by three and a half, and four inches high. Internally, the measurement is so arranged that, putting the lid out of the question, the front of the box is of exactly equal area with the bottom. Against this front (see Fig. 51) lies a slab of tin or zinc, working on a cloth hinge along its lower edge, thus rendering it capable of either lying flat on the bottom of the box (which it exactly covers), or of being folded up against the front, the upper edge of which projects slightly inwards, so as to aid in concealing it. This flap, like the whole inside of the box, is painted black. On one point of its upper surface is a little stud, which, when the flap is raised, fits into a hole prepared for it in the lock, across which passes the hinder end or tail of the bolt. The box is prepared for use as follows:—The key is turned, as if locking the box (which, however, is held open), thus pushing forward the bolt of the lock, and the flap is lifted up against the front, the stud passing into the little hole before-mentioned. The key is then again turned as if unlocking the box, when the tail of the bolt catches the stud, and secures the flap. The box will in this condition bear any amount of examination, but138 as soon as it is closed, and the key turned to lock it, the tail of the bolt, being again shot forward, no longer retains the stud, and the flap falls. When in actual use, a card (say the ace of spades) is placed upon the flap, and folded up with it against the front of the box. The card to be changed (suppose the nine of diamonds) is in due course openly placed in the box, which is then handed to some one with a request that he will himself lock it, that there may be no possibility of deception. The trick proceeds, and when the box is again opened, the card placed therein is found transformed to the ace of spades.

The Mechanical Cardbox.—This is also a device for changing a selected card into another. It works on a similar principle to the previously described card-boxes, but differs quite a bit in detail. It is a rectangular wooden box, measuring about four and a half inches by three and a half, and four inches high. Inside, the dimensions are arranged so that, excluding the lid, the front of the box has exactly the same area as the bottom. Against this front (see Fig. 51), there is a piece of tin or zinc that hinges on a cloth along its lower edge. This allows it to either lie flat on the bottom of the box (which it completely covers) or be folded up against the front, whose upper edge projects slightly inward to help hide it. This flap, like the entire inside of the box, is painted black. There’s a small stud on one point of its upper surface, which, when the flap is lifted, fits into a hole prepared in the lock, across which the back end or tail of the bolt runs. To prepare the box for use: the key is turned as if locking the box (though it's held open), which pushes the bolt forward, and the flap is lifted against the front, with the stud fitting into the previously mentioned hole. The key is then turned again as if unlocking the box, and the tail of the bolt catches the stud, securing the flap. In this condition, the box can withstand any examination, but138 once it is closed and the key is turned to lock it, the tail of the bolt, shot forward again, no longer holds the stud, causing the flap to fall. When in actual use, a card (let's say the ace of spades) is placed on the flap and folded up with it against the front of the box. The card to be changed (suppose it’s the nine of diamonds) is then openly placed in the box, which is handed to someone with a request that they lock it, ensuring there is no chance of trickery. The trick continues, and when the box is reopened, the card originally placed inside is found transformed into the ace of spades.

Some card-boxes are so made, that the flap, instead of falling actually upon the bottom of the box, falls parallel to it, but at a distance of an inch or so above it, leaving a hollow space beneath capable of containing a lady’s handkerchief, a canary, or any other small article, which, being covered by the falling flap, is thus apparently changed into a card. The box in this case is somewhat taller in proportion than that above described.

Some card boxes are designed so that the flap, instead of resting directly on the bottom of the box, falls parallel to it but about an inch above, creating a hollow space underneath that can hold a lady’s handkerchief, a canary, or any small item, which, when covered by the falling flap, seems to have been transformed into a card. In this case, the box is somewhat taller in proportion than the one described earlier.

The “Card and Bird” Box.—This is, in form and general appearance, similar to that form of the card-box last above described (that which has an enclosed space beneath the flap), but its working is precisely the converse—i.e., the normal condition of the flap in this case is to lie folded against the back of the box, against which it is pressed by the action of a spring. It may, however, be folded down so as to lie parallel with the bottom, a little catch projecting from the inner surface of the front, holding it in that position. (See Fig. 52.) The lock is in this case a mere sham, having neither key nor keyhole, but a little stud projecting from the lower edge of the lid, and representing the “staple” of the lock, presses, when the box is closed, upon an upright pin passing through the thickness of the wood up the front of the box, and thereby withdraws the catch, when the flap flies up, concealing the card which has just been placed upon it, and revealing the bird or other object which had previously been concealed beneath it.

The "Card and Bird" Box.—This box looks similar to the card box mentioned earlier (the one that has an enclosed space under the flap), but it works in the opposite way. Here, the flap normally stays folded against the back of the box, held there by a spring. However, it can also be folded down to lay flat against the bottom, with a little catch on the inside of the front keeping it in place. (See Fig. 52.) The lock is just for show, with no key or keyhole. Instead, there's a small stud on the lower edge of the lid that acts like the "staple" of a lock. When the box is closed, this stud presses against an upright pin that goes through the wood at the front of the box, releasing the catch, causing the flap to spring up, hiding the card that was just placed there and revealing the bird or other object that was previously hidden underneath.

The same principle is sometimes applied to the “card-box,” the flap when “set” lying flat on the bottom of the box, leaving no hollow space below.

The same principle is sometimes used for the “card-box,” with the flap lying flat on the bottom of the box when “set,” leaving no empty space underneath.

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The Card Tripod.—This is a miniature table, standing five or six inches high. It has a round top of about the same diameter, supported on a tripod foot. It is provided with an ornamental cover of tin or pasteboard, shaped somewhat like the top of a coffee-pot, just large enough to fit neatly over the top of the table, and about an inch deep. The table has a false top, made of tin, but japanned to match the real top, and of such a size as to fit tightly within the cover. If the false top be laid upon the true one, and the cover placed over both, the cover will, on being again removed, carry with it the false top, and leave exposed the real one, which, however, the audience take to be that which they have already seen.

The Card Tripod.—This is a small table, about five or six inches tall. It has a round top of a similar diameter, supported by a tripod base. It comes with a decorative cover made of tin or cardboard, shaped like the top of a coffee pot, just big enough to fit snugly over the table's top, and about an inch deep. The table has a false top made of tin, coated to match the real top, designed to fit tightly under the cover. If the false top is placed on the true one and the cover is put over both, when the cover is lifted again, it will bring up the false top and reveal the real one, which the audience thinks is the same one they've already seen.

The reader will already have perceived that the card-tripod is, in effect, very similar to the changing card-box. Like the card-box, it may be used either singly or in pairs, and the tricks performed by its aid will be nearly the same. Thus two forced cards drawn by the audience may be made to change places from one tripod to another, a card drawn and destroyed may be reproduced from its own ashes, or a card drawn and placed on the tripod may be made to vanish altogether, the drawn card being in each case laid upon the false top, that to which it is to be apparently transformed having been previously placed under the false and upon the true top. A card once changed, however, cannot be restored to its original condition, and the card-tripod is, therefore, in this respect inferior to the card-box.

The reader will have noticed that the card tripod is actually very similar to the changing card box. Like the card box, it can be used either alone or in pairs, and the tricks performed with it will be nearly the same. For example, two forced cards drawn by the audience can switch places between the tripods, a card that is drawn and destroyed can be reproduced from its ashes, or a card drawn and placed on the tripod can completely disappear, with the drawn card resting on the false top while the card it’s supposedly changed into is secretly placed underneath the false one and on the real top. However, once a card is changed, it cannot return to its original state, which makes the card tripod less versatile than the card box in this regard.

The “Torn Card.”—This is a very effective trick. The performer requests some one of the company to draw a card, and, having done so, to tear it up into any number of fragments. He does so, and hands them to the operator, who returns one corner to him, with a request that he will take particular care of it. The performer announces that out of the torn fragments he will restore the card anew, for which purpose he first burns the fragments on a plate or otherwise, carefully preserving the ashes. He then brings forward one of the changing card-boxes already described, and, after, showing that it is empty, closes it, and places it on the table in view of all present. He next takes the ashes of the torn card, and, loading a pistol with them, fires at the box. (If he has not a pistol at hand, placing the ashes on the box, rubbing them on the lid, or any other act which gets rid of140 them will answer the same purpose.) When the box is opened, the card is found whole as at first, with the exception of one corner, being (ostensibly) that which was retained by the drawer. Taking this piece in his right hand, and holding the card by one corner between the thumb and first finger of his left hand (see Fig. 53), the performer makes a motion as if throwing the small piece towards it. The small piece instantly vanishes from his hand, and at the same moment the card is seen to be completely restored, the torn corner being in its proper place. Some performers, instead of giving the drawer the torn corner to take charge of in the first instance, burn ostensibly the whole of the pieces, and pretend surprise on finding that there is a corner missing when the card is restored. Directly afterwards, however, they pick up the missing fragment from the floor, where they have just previously dropped it, and the trick proceeds as already described.

The "Torn Card."—This is a very effective trick. The performer asks someone in the audience to pick a card and then tear it into as many pieces as they want. After doing that, they hand the pieces to the performer, who returns one corner to them, asking them to keep it safe. The performer then claims that from the torn pieces, they'll restore the card. To do this, they first burn the fragments on a plate or similar, carefully keeping the ashes. Next, they bring out one of the previously mentioned changing card boxes, show that it’s empty, close it, and set it on the table for everyone to see. The performer then takes the ashes of the torn card, loads them into a pistol, and fires at the box. (If a pistol isn’t available, just placing the ashes on the box, rubbing them on the lid, or any other method to get rid of them will work just fine.) When the box is opened, the card is found completely restored, except for one corner, which is supposedly the one kept by the person who chose the card. Holding this piece in their right hand and the full card by one corner between their left thumb and first finger (see Fig. 53), the performer gestures as if they’re throwing the small piece toward it. The small piece instantly disappears from their hand, and at that moment, the card is seen to be fully restored, with the torn corner back in place. Some performers, instead of giving the torn corner to the chooser initially, burn all of the pieces and act surprised to find a corner missing when the card is restored. Shortly afterward, though, they pick up the missing fragment from the floor, where they discreetly dropped it earlier, and the trick continues as previously described.

Fig. 53. Fig. 54.

The reader will, no doubt, already have conjectured that the card drawn is a forced one, and that the supposed restored card was concealed beforehand under the false bottom of the card-box. This pretended restored card is, in reality, an ingenious though simple piece of apparatus, constructed as follows:—A piece of tin is cut to the exact size and shape of a card; out of this, at one of the corners, is cut an oblong piece, measuring about one inch by five-eighths. This piece is attached by a spring hinge, a a, on one side of it, to the larger piece of tin, in such manner that it can be folded back (see Fig. 54) flat against it; the action of the spring, however, bringing it back again, when released, to its original position. To this piece of141 tin is soldered lengthways a narrow tail-piece, of such a length as to extend nearly to the opposite end of the larger piece of tin. This tail-piece forms a kind of handle wherewith to bend back the smaller piece of tin on its hinge, and at the same time acts as a check to prevent the action of the spring pressing the smaller piece beyond the plane of the larger one. A playing card is split in two in order to reduce its thickness, and the face of the card thus reduced is pasted on the front of the larger piece of tin. Previously, however, a piece, somewhat smaller than the little moveable flap, is torn out of one corner, and pasted on the flap in such a manner that, when the latter is released, the torn piece will occupy its proper position with respect to the remainder of the card, which will thus appear complete. When, however, the moveable flap is folded back, and so held by the pressure of the forefinger upon the tail-piece, the torn portion of the card will be folded back with it, as in Fig. 54. When the mechanical card is placed in the box, it should be thus folded back, and kept in position by a little bit of thin wire, half an inch long, and bent into a miniature staple or clip, which, slipped over the end of the tail-piece and the adjoining edge of tin, will effectually hold the flap back, and yet may be got rid of in an instant, when the forefinger is ready to take its place. You must take care so to place the card in the box as to be face uppermost when the box is opened, as the audience must not, of course, see the back. When you desire to make the card complete, you have only to slip aside the forefinger, and thus release the moveable flap.

The reader will have likely guessed that the card drawn was forced, and that the supposedly restored card was hidden beforehand under the false bottom of the card box. This so-called restored card is actually a clever yet simple piece of equipment, built as follows: A piece of tin is cut to the exact size and shape of a card; one of the corners has an oblong section cut out, measuring about one inch by five-eighths. This piece is attached by a spring hinge, a a, on one side to the larger piece of tin, allowing it to be folded back (see Fig. 54) flat against it; however, the spring action returns it to its original position when released. A narrow tail-piece is soldered lengthwise to this piece of tin, extending nearly to the opposite end of the larger piece. This tail-piece serves as a handle to bend back the smaller piece of tin on its hinge, while also acting as a stop to prevent the spring from pushing the smaller piece past the plane of the larger one. A playing card is split in two to reduce its thickness, and the face of the thinner card is glued to the front of the larger piece of tin. Before doing this, however, a slightly smaller piece is torn out of one corner and glued onto the flap in such a way that when the flap is released, the torn piece will align properly with the rest of the card, making it look complete. When the movable flap is folded back and held in place by the pressure of the forefinger on the tail-piece, the torn part of the card will fold back with it, as shown in Fig. 54. When the mechanical card is placed in the box, it should be kept folded back and held in position by a small piece of thin wire, half an inch long, bent into a tiny staple or clip that slips over the end of the tail-piece and the adjacent edge of tin, effectively holding the flap back but can be removed instantly when the forefinger is ready to take its place. You must ensure that the card is placed in the box face up when opened, so the audience won’t see the back. When you want to make the card look whole, all you have to do is move your forefinger aside to release the movable flap.

There are torn cards now made entirely of pasteboard, dispensing with the tin plate at the back. This is a decided improvement.

There are now torn cards made completely of cardboard, eliminating the tin plate on the back. This is definitely an improvement.

As to the disappearance of the loose corner from your hand, you will find little difficulty when you have learnt the art of coin-palming, to be hereafter explained. Assuming that you have at present no knowledge on this subject, you may proceed as follows:—Take the bit of card between the forefinger and thumb of your right hand, and as you make the motion of throwing it towards the mechanical card, push it with the ball of the thumb between the first or second joints of the first and middle fingers. This releases the thumb, and the inside of your hand being turned away from your audience, you run little risk of discovery, particularly as the same piece, apparently, is now seen in its proper place as part of the restored card.

As for getting rid of the loose corner from your hand, you'll find it's not too hard once you learn the technique of coin-palming, which will be explained later. Assuming you don't know anything about this yet, you can do it like this: Grab the piece of card with your right hand, using your thumb and forefinger. As you pretend to throw it towards the mechanical card, push it with the ball of your thumb between the first or second joints of your first and middle fingers. This will free up your thumb, and since the inside of your hand is turned away from the audience, there's little chance of getting caught, especially since the same piece now looks like it’s back in its rightful place as part of the restored card.

142 We must not omit to mention that there is a mode of performing the “torn card” trick in which the use of the mechanical card is dispensed with. In this case the performer secretly takes an ordinary card, say the knave of spades, and tears off one corner, which he carefully preserves. The card thus mutilated he places in a card-box, or other similar piece of apparatus. Pack in hand, he advances to the company, and “forces” the knave of spades, having, meanwhile, the little corner piece of the concealed card hidden between the second and third fingers of his right hand. The card having been drawn, he requests the drawer to tear it up, and place the pieces on a plate, which he hands him for that purpose. Having received the pieces, he says carelessly, “You had better keep one piece for the purpose of identification;” and, so saying, hands him apparently one of the fragments of the card just torn, but really the concealed corner piece, which he drops from his hand on the plate for that purpose in the very act of picking up. The trick then proceeds as already described up to the finding of the card partially restored, in which condition it is handed to the drawer, and its identity proved by showing that the torn edge exactly corresponds with the corner retained. The trick may either end here, or, by using a second card-box, card-tripod, or the like, the card and corner may be again changed for a complete card.

142 We should mention that there's a way to perform the “torn card” trick without using a mechanical card. In this version, the performer secretly takes a regular card, like the jack of spades, and tears off one corner, which they carefully keep. They then place the damaged card in a card box or similar device. With the pack in hand, they approach the audience and “force” the jack of spades while holding the small corner piece of the hidden card between the second and third fingers of their right hand. Once the card is drawn, they ask the person who drew it to tear it up and put the pieces on a plate that they provide. After receiving the pieces, they casually say, “You might want to keep one piece for identification,” and then hand over what looks like a fragment of the torn card, but is actually the hidden corner piece, which they drop onto the plate while picking up the other pieces. The trick continues as previously described until they reveal the partially restored card, which is handed back to the person who drew it, proving its identity by showing that the torn edge matches the retained corner. The trick can either end there or continue by using a second card box, card tripod, or similar item to switch the card and corner for a complete card.

Mechanical Changing Cards.—These are of two or three kinds, but all have the same object—viz., the apparent transformation of the card to a different one. In some cases the change is from a court card of one suit to the same card of another suit—e.g., a king of spades to a king of hearts, involving merely the alteration of the pip in the corner. This is effected by having the card made double, that portion of the front card on which the pip should be being cut out. The hindmost card, which is pasted only round the extreme edge to the front one, is a plain white card, but with the appropriate pip, say a spade, neatly painted in the proper position, to allow of its showing through the opening in the front card, which thus has the appearance of an ordinary king of spades. Between the two cards is a moveable slip, worked by a pin through a slip in the back, on which is painted a heart pip. By moving this slip, the heart is in143 turn brought opposite the opening, covering the spade pip, so that the card now appears to be the king of hearts. The card as above described is of the old single-headed pattern, but the same principle may be applied to double-headed cards. In this case both of the “pip” portions of the front card are cut away as in Fig. 55, while on the upper corresponding portion of the hinder card is painted (say) a spade, and on the lower a heart, as in Fig. 56. The moveable slip is of such a shape and size as to cover the one or the other, according as it is drawn up or down; and on the upper part of this (see Fig. 57) is painted a heart, and on the lower a spade. When, therefore, the slip is pushed up, the heart pip on the slip and the heart pip on the hindmost card are shown, so that the card appears to be a king of hearts. When, on the other hand, the slip is drawn down, the spade pip of the hinder card is revealed, and at the same time the slip covers over the heart pip of this latter, and exhibits its own spade pip, giving the card the appearance of a king of spades.

Mechanical Change Cards.—There are two or three types, but they all share the same purpose—namely, to make it seem like one card transforms into another. Sometimes the change is from a court card of one suit to the same card of a different suit—e.g., a king of spades turning into a king of hearts, requiring just a change in the pip in the corner. This is accomplished by creating a double card, where the part of the front card with the pip is cut out. The back card, which is only glued around the edges to the front one, is a plain white card, but it has the right pip, like a spade, painted in the correct position to show through the opening in the front card, making it look like an ordinary king of spades. Between these two cards is a movable slip, manipulated by a pin through a slot in the back, with a heart pip painted on it. By moving this slip, the heart is in143 turn positioned opposite the opening, covering the spade pip, so now the card looks like the king of hearts. The card described is of the old single-headed type, but the same idea can be used with double-headed cards. In this case, both “pip” sections of the front card are cut away as in Fig. 55, while the upper corresponding part of the back card has a spade painted on it, and the lower part has a heart, as in Fig. 56. The movable slip is shaped and sized to cover one or the other, depending on whether it is pulled up or down; and on the upper part of this (see Fig. 57) is painted a heart, while on the lower part is a spade. So, when the slip is pushed up, the heart pip on the slip and the heart pip on the back card are visible, making the card look like a king of hearts. Conversely, when the slip is pulled down, the spade pip of the back card is shown, and at the same time, the slip covers the heart pip of this card while displaying its own spade pip, giving the appearance of a king of spades.

Fig. 55. Fig. 56. Fig. 57.

These mechanical cards are used in various ways. Such a card may be introduced with good effect in the trick of the “rising cards,” before described. The king of spades, we will suppose, is one of the cards drawn. The changing card is made one of those which rise from the pack, but is so arranged as to appear as the king of hearts. When the king of spades is called for, this card rises. The performer feigns to be taken by surprise, and asks the person who drew the card whether he is sure he is not mistaken, and that the card he drew was not the king of hearts. The drawer naturally maintains the correctness of his own recollection, while the performer as stoutly insists that the cards never deceive him, and that, if the king of spades had been drawn, the king of spades would infallibly have risen when called. At last, as if tired of the dispute, he says, “Well, I still maintain you were mistaken; but as you insist that144 your card was the king of spades, why, we will make this into a king of spades.” So saying, and holding up the card between his middle finger and thumb, he touches its face with his wand, and at the same moment with the first finger moves the slide, when the card changes to the king of spades. The little dispute as to the supposed mistake, which the audience have hitherto believed to be genuine, gives to the transformation an impromptu air which is very effective. The performer may go on to say, still holding up the card, “You are quite satisfied now, I presume.” The drawer assents. “Then if so, as it would spoil my pack to have two kings of spades in it, you will allow me, before proceeding further, to change the card back again. Change!” Again he touches the card with his wand, and it is seen to change back again to the king of hearts.

These mechanical cards are used in various ways. For example, a card can be effectively incorporated into the "rising cards" trick described earlier. Let’s say the king of spades is one of the cards drawn. The changing card is made to rise from the pack but is set up to look like the king of hearts. When the king of spades is called for, this card rises instead. The performer pretends to be surprised and asks the person who drew the card if they are sure they didn’t make a mistake and that what they drew was not the king of hearts. The drawer naturally insists that they remember correctly, while the performer stubbornly maintains that the cards never lie and that if the king of spades had been drawn, it would definitely have risen when called. Eventually, as if tired of the argument, he says, “Well, I still believe you were mistaken; but since you insist that your card was the king of spades, we’ll make this one a king of spades.” Holding up the card between his middle finger and thumb, he touches its face with his wand, and at the same time, with his index finger, he slides it to change it to the king of spades. The little dispute about the supposed mistake, which the audience thought was real, gives the transformation an unscripted feel that is very effective. The performer may then say, still holding up the card, “I assume you're satisfied now?” The drawer agrees. “Then, since having two kings of spades in my pack would ruin it, let me change the card back before we go on. Change!” He touches the card with his wand again, and it is seen to change back to the king of hearts.

Another mode of using the mechanical card is in conjunction with the changing card-boxes, above described. In this case the changing cards are used in pairs. One of them, arranged as the king of spades, is secretly placed in the one box, and the other, arranged as the king of hearts, in the other. Two of the spectators are requested each to draw a card, and two genuine kings of the same respective suits are forced upon them. Taking the cards so drawn, and showing the card boxes apparently empty, the performer places one of the cards in each, taking care to place the king of hearts in the box containing the ostensible king of spades, and vice versâ. He now commands the two cards to change places, and, opening the boxes, shows that his commands are obeyed. He then remarks, “Now, I dare say you all think that the trick depends on the boxes. To show you that it is not so, I will again order the cards to change; and this time I will not place them in the boxes, but will merely take one in each hand, so. If your eyes are quick enough, you will see the cards fly across from the one hand to the other. Observe, the king of spades is in my right hand, and the king of hearts in my left. One, two, three—Change!” (with a stamp and a slight flourish of the cards). “Did you see them fly? Here is the king of hearts in my right hand, and the king of spades has passed to my left. I will put them in the boxes once more.” You put each in the box which it before occupied, in doing so again making the change, but without closing the boxes. You continue, “Please to notice which145 I put in each box—the king of hearts in the right hand box, and the king of spades in the left hand box. Is that right?” The audience reply in the affirmative. “Excuse me,” you say, “I fear you are mistaken. You did not notice, perhaps, that the cards had changed again.” You show that this is so, and then close the boxes so as to bring the cards originally drawn uppermost. Opening them once more, you show that the cards have again changed, and then remark, “I have shown you that the secret does not lie in the boxes, perhaps you would like to satisfy yourselves that there is no preparation about the cards,” which you accordingly hand for examination.

Another way to use the mechanical card is with the changing card boxes described earlier. In this case, the changing cards are used in pairs. One of them, set up as the king of spades, is secretly placed in one box, and the other, set up as the king of hearts, goes in the other. Two spectators are asked to each draw a card, and two real kings of the same suits are forced upon them. Taking the drawn cards and showing the boxes seemingly empty, the performer places one card in each, making sure to put the king of hearts in the box meant for the king of spades, and vice versa. He then commands the two cards to switch places and, opening the boxes, reveals that his command has been followed. He adds, “Now, I bet you all think the trick relies on the boxes. To prove that it doesn’t, I’ll make the cards switch again; this time I won’t use the boxes, I’ll just hold one in each hand. If your eyes are quick enough, you’ll see the cards fly from one hand to the other. Look, the king of spades is in my right hand, and the king of hearts is in my left. One, two, three—Change!” (with a stamp and a slight flourish of the cards). “Did you see them switch? Here’s the king of hearts in my right hand, and the king of spades has moved to my left. I’ll put them back in the boxes now.” You place each card in the box it occupied before, making the switch again without closing the boxes. You continue, “Please note which cards I put in each box—the king of hearts in the right-hand box and the king of spades in the left-hand box. Is that correct?” The audience agrees. “Excuse me,” you say, “I think you’re mistaken. Perhaps you didn’t notice that the cards changed again.” You demonstrate this, and then close the boxes to bring the originally drawn cards to the top. Opening them again, you show that the cards have changed once more, and then you say, “I’ve shown you that the secret doesn’t lie in the boxes; perhaps you’d like to check for yourself that there’s nothing special about the cards.” You then hand them out for inspection.

Fig. 58.

Another form of changing card is known as a “flap card.” This is a card across whose centre is fixed a moveable flap of exactly half its size. When the flap is folded one way, it covers the upper half, and when it is folded the other way the lower half of the card, in each case revealing a different surface. (See Fig. 58.) On one of such surfaces is pasted, say, a queen of clubs (made thin by peeling off the back), and on the other surface, say, a nine of diamonds, prepared in like manner. Thus the card will appear, according as the flap is folded, alternately a queen of clubs or nine of diamonds. An india-rubber spring tends to draw the flap down, so that the normal condition of the card is to appear as, say, the nine of diamonds. When exhibited to the company, the flap is forced over in the opposite direction, so that the card appears to be the queen of clubs. The thumb and finger hold the flap down until the right moment, when they relax their pressure, and the flap flying up, the card is instantly transformed to the nine of diamonds.

Another type of changing card is called a “flap card.” This is a card that has a movable flap fixed across its center, which is exactly half its size. When the flap is folded one way, it covers the upper half, and when it's folded the other way, it covers the lower half of the card, each time revealing a different surface. (See Fig. 58.) On one of these surfaces, there’s a queen of clubs (made thinner by peeling off the back), and on the other surface, there’s a nine of diamonds, prepared the same way. So, the card will show either the queen of clubs or the nine of diamonds, depending on how the flap is folded. An elastic spring helps pull the flap down, so the card normally shows the nine of diamonds. When shown to the audience, the flap is flipped over in the opposite direction, making the card appear as the queen of clubs. The thumb and finger hold the flap down until the right moment, when they release it, and the flap flips up, instantly transforming the card to the nine of diamonds.


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CHAPTER VI.
Principles of sleight of hand especially relevant to coin tricks.

Before attempting tricks with coin, it will be necessary for the student to practise certain sleights and passes which more especially belong to this particular branch of the magic art, though the sleight-of-hand used in “coin tricks” is more or less applicable to most other small objects. The principles which we have given for card tricks will not here be of any direct assistance to the student; but the readiness of hand and eye which he will have acquired, if he has diligently put in practice the instructions already given, will be of great value to him as a preliminary training, and it may safely be predicted that any person who is a first-rate performer with cards will find little difficulty in any other branch of the art.

Before trying out coin tricks, it's important for the learner to practice specific sleights and moves that are unique to this type of magic. However, the sleight-of-hand skills used in “coin tricks” can also be applied to most other small objects. The techniques we've discussed for card tricks won't be directly helpful here, but the hand-eye coordination developed through diligent practice of the previous instructions will be extremely beneficial as foundational training. It's safe to say that anyone who excels at card tricks will have little trouble mastering other areas of magic.

Fig. 59. Fig. 60.

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The first faculty which the novice must seek to acquire is that of “palming”—i.e., secretly holding an object in the open hand by the contraction of the palm. To acquire this power, take a half-crown, florin, or penny (these being the most convenient in point of size), and lay it on the palm of the open hand. (See Fig. 59.) Now close the hand very slightly, and if you have placed the coin on the right spot (which a few trials will quickly indicate), the contraction of the palm around its edges will hold it securely (see Fig. 60), and you may move the hand and arm in any direction without fear of dropping it. You should next accustom yourself to use the hand and fingers easily and naturally, while still holding the coin as described. A very little practice will enable you to do this. You must bear in mind while practising always to keep the inside of the palm either downwards or towards your own body, as any reverse movement would expose the concealed coin. When you are able to hold the coin comfortably in the right hand, practise in like manner with the left, after which you may substitute for the coin a watch, an egg, or a small lemon—all these being articles of frequent use in conjuring.

The first skill the beginner should try to master is “palming” — i.e., secretly holding an object in the open hand by contracting the palm. To develop this skill, take a half-crown, florin, or penny (these are the most convenient sizes), and place it on the palm of your open hand. (See Fig. 59.) Now close your hand slightly, and if you've positioned the coin correctly (which you'll quickly determine after a few tries), the contraction of your palm around its edges will hold it securely (see Fig. 60), allowing you to move your hand and arm in any direction without worrying about dropping it. You should then become comfortable using your hand and fingers easily and naturally while still holding the coin as described. A little practice will help you achieve this. Remember while practicing to keep the palm turned either downwards or towards your body, as any other movement could reveal the hidden coin. When you can hold the coin comfortably in your right hand, practice the same way with your left, after which you can replace the coin with a watch, an egg, or a small lemon — all of which are commonly used in magic tricks.

Being thoroughly master of this first lesson, you may proceed to the study of the various “passes.” All of the passes have the same object—viz., the apparent transfer of an article from one hand to the other, though such article really remains in the hand which it has apparently just quitted. As the same movement frequently repeated would cause suspicion, and possibly detection, it is desirable to acquire different ways of effecting this object. For facility of subsequent reference, we shall denote the different passes described by numbers.I

Mastering this first lesson allows you to move on to studying the different "passes." All the passes serve the same purpose—namely, the illusion of transferring an item from one hand to the other, even though the item actually stays in the hand it just seemed to leave. Since repeating the same movement too often could raise suspicion and potentially lead to being caught, it's important to learn various methods to achieve this effect. For easy reference later, we will label the different passes with numbers.I

I It should be here mentioned that the term “palming,” which we have so far used as meaning simply the act of holding any article, is also employed to signify the act of placing any article in the palm by one or other of the various passes. The context will readily indicate in which of the two senses the term is used in any given passage.

I It should be mentioned here that the term “palming,” which we have used so far to mean simply the act of holding any item, is also used to refer to the act of placing any item in the palm through one of the various techniques. The context will clearly indicate which of the two meanings is intended in any specific passage.

It is hardly necessary to remark that the diagrams, save where the letterpress indicates the contrary, represent the hands of the performer as seen by himself.

It’s hardly necessary to mention that the diagrams, except where the text says otherwise, show the hands of the performer as seen by himself.

Pass 1.—Take the coin in the right hand, between the second and148 third fingers and the thumb (see Fig. 61), letting it, however, really be supported by the fingers, and only steadied by the thumb. Now move the thumb out of the way, and close the second and third fingers, with the coin balanced on them, into the palm. (See Fig. 62.) If the coin was placed right in the first instance, you will find that this motion puts it precisely in the position above described as the proper one for palming; and on again extending the fingers, the coin is left palmed, as in Fig. 60. When you can do this easily with the hand at rest, you must practise doing the same thing with the right hand in motion toward the left, which should meet it open, but should close the moment that the fingers of the right hand touch its palm, as though upon the coin, which you have by this movement feigned to transfer to it. The left hand must thenceforward remain closed, as if holding the coin, and the right hand hang loosely open, as if empty.

Pass 1.—Hold the coin in your right hand, between your second and third fingers and your thumb (see Fig. 61), making sure it’s really supported by the fingers and just steadied by the thumb. Now move your thumb out of the way and close your second and third fingers, with the coin balanced on them, into your palm. (See Fig. 62.) If you placed the coin correctly at the start, you’ll find that this motion puts it exactly where it should be for palming; and when you extend your fingers again, the coin will be left palmed, as in Fig. 60. Once you can do this easily with your hand still, you should practice doing the same thing with your right hand moving toward the left, which should meet it open but should close the moment the fingers of your right hand touch its palm, as if you were transferring the coin to it. Your left hand should stay closed, as if holding the coin, while your right hand hangs loosely open, as if it’s empty.

Fig. 61. Fig. 62.

In the case of an article of larger size than a coin—as, for instance, a watch or an egg—you need not take the article with the fingers, but may let it simply lie on the palm of the right hand, slightly closing that hand as you move it towards the left. The greater extent of surface in this case will give you plenty of hold, without the necessity of pressing the article into the palm. Remember that, in any case, the two hands must work in harmony, as in the genuine act of passing an article from the one hand to the other. The left hand must therefore rise to meet the right, but should not begin its journey until the right hand begins its own. Nothing149 looks more awkward or unnatural than to see the left hand extended with open palm, before the right hand has begun to move towards it.

In the case of an item larger than a coin—like a watch or an egg—you don't need to grab it with your fingers; you can just let it rest in the palm of your right hand, slightly closing your hand as you move it to the left. The larger surface area will give you a good grip without needing to press the item into your palm. Keep in mind that both hands should work together smoothly, just like passing something from one hand to the other. The left hand should rise to meet the right, but it shouldn't start moving until the right hand does. Nothing looks more awkward or unnatural than having the left hand open and waiting before the right hand has started to move toward it.

Fig. 63. Fig. 64. Fig. 65.

After the pass is made, a judicious use of the wand will materially assist in concealing the fact that the object still remains in the right hand. For this purpose the performer should, before commencing the pass, carelessly place the wand under either arm, as though merely to leave his hands free. Immediately that the pass is made the right hand should, with a sort of back-handed movement, which under the circumstances is perfectly natural, grasp the wand, draw it from under the arm, and thenceforth retain it till an opportunity occurs of disposing of the coin as may be necessary. The position of the fingers in the act of holding the wand is such as to effectually mask the concealed coin, while yet the hand appears perfectly easy and natural. The same expedient may be employed with equal advantage in the remaining passes.

After the pass is made, using the wand wisely will really help hide the fact that the object is still in the right hand. For this, the performer should casually place the wand under either arm before starting the pass, as if just wanting to keep their hands free. As soon as the pass is executed, the right hand should, with a natural back-handed motion, grab the wand, pull it out from under the arm, and then hold it until there’s a chance to dispose of the coin as needed. The way the fingers hold the wand effectively covers the hidden coin, while the hand still looks relaxed and natural. The same technique can be used equally well in the other passes.

Pass 2.—This is somewhat easier than Pass 1, and may sometimes be usefully substituted for it. Take the coin edgeways between the first and third fingers of the right hand, the sides of those fingers pressing against the edges of the coin, and the middle finger steadying it from behind. (See Fig. 63.) Carry the right hand towards the150 left, and at the same time move the thumb swiftly over the face of the coin till the top joint just passes its outer edge (see Fig. 64); then bend the thumb, and the coin will be found to be securely nipped between that joint and the junction of the thumb with the hand. (See Fig. 65.) As in the last case, the left hand must be closed the moment the right hand touches it; and the right must thenceforth be held with the thumb bent slightly inwards towards the palm, so that the coin may be shielded from the view of the spectators. This is an especially quick mode of palming, and if properly executed the illusion is perfect. It is said to be a special favourite of the elder Frikell.

Pass 2.—This is a bit easier than Pass 1, and can sometimes be effectively used instead. Hold the coin edge-on between your first and third fingers of your right hand, with the sides of those fingers pressing against the edges of the coin, while your middle finger steadies it from behind. (See Fig. 63.) Move your right hand to the left, and at the same time slide your thumb quickly over the face of the coin until the top joint just passes its outer edge (see Fig. 64); then bend your thumb, and the coin will be securely pinched between that joint and the base of your thumb. (See Fig. 65.) As before, the left hand should close as soon as the right hand touches it; and from that point, the right hand should be held with the thumb slightly bent inward towards the palm, so the coin is hidden from the spectators’ view. This is a particularly fast way of palming, and if done correctly, the illusion is flawless. It’s said to be a favorite of the older Frikell.

Pass 3.—Hold the left hand palm upwards, with the coin in the position indicated in Fig. 59. Move the right hand towards the left, and let the fingers simulate the motion of picking up the coin, and instantly close. At the same moment slightly close the left hand, so as to contract the palm around the coin, as in Fig. 60, and drop the hand, letting it hang loosely by your side.

Pass 3.—Hold your left hand palm up, with the coin in the position shown in Fig. 59. Move your right hand towards the left, and let your fingers mimic the action of picking up the coin, then quickly close it. At the same time, slightly close your left hand to wrap around the coin, like in Fig. 60, and let your hand drop, hanging loosely by your side.

Fig. 66.

Pass 4. (Le Tourniquet).—This (sometimes known as the “French drop”) is an easy and yet most effective pass. Hold the left hand palm upwards, with the coin as shown in Fig. 66. Now move the right hand towards the left, passing the thumb of the right hand under, and the fingers over the coin, closing them just as they pass it. The effect is the same to the eye of the spectator as if you seized the coin with thumb and fingers, but, in reality, at the moment when the coin is covered by the fingers of the right hand, you let it drop quietly (see Fig. 67) into the palm of the left.

Pass 4. (Le Tourniquet).—This (sometimes called the “French drop”) is a simple but highly effective move. Hold your left hand palm up, with the coin positioned as shown in Fig. 66. Now, move your right hand towards the left, passing the thumb of your right hand underneath and the fingers over the coin, closing them just as they go over it. To the audience, it looks like you’ve grabbed the coin with your thumb and fingers, but in reality, the moment your right hand’s fingers cover the coin, you let it drop quietly (see Fig. 67) into the palm of your left hand.

Fig. 67.

The right hand you should carry upwards and forwards after it leaves the left hand, following it with your eyes, and thereby drawing away the attention of the audience from the other hand. (See Fig. 68.) Do not be in too great a hurry to drop the left hand, but turn151 the palm slightly towards you, with the fingers a little bent, and, after a moment’s pause, let it fall gently to your side. The hollow made by the bent fingers will be sufficient to hold the coin.

The right hand should be raised and moved forward after it leaves the left hand, following it with your gaze to divert the audience's attention from the other hand. (See Fig. 68.) Don't rush to drop the left hand; instead, turn the palm slightly towards you, with the fingers slightly bent, and after a brief pause, let it fall gently to your side. The curve formed by the bent fingers will be enough to hold the coin.

This pass is available even for a sixpence or threepenny piece, which from their small size, cannot readily be palmed by the ordinary means. It is also very useful for “ball” conjuring.

This pass is available even for a sixpence or a threepenny piece, which due to their small size, can't easily be concealed by regular means. It's also very useful for “ball” magic tricks.

Fig. 68.

Pass 5. (La Pincette).—This is a modification of the pass last described. The coin is held as in Fig. 69, between the thumb and first and second fingers of the left hand. You then make the movement of taking it between the same fingers of the other hand, which for that purpose makes a kind of “swoop” down upon it, the back of the hand being kept towards the spectators. At the moment when the coin is covered by the fingers of the right hand, it is allowed to slip gently down into the palm of the left, and the right is instantly elevated as if containing it.

Pass 5. (La Pincette).—This is a variation of the pass described earlier. The coin is held as in Fig. 69, between the thumb and the first two fingers of the left hand. You then simulate taking it with the same fingers of the right hand, which swoops down to grab it, keeping the back of the hand facing the audience. At the moment the coin is covered by the fingers of the right hand, it gently slips down into the palm of the left hand, and the right hand is quickly raised as if it still holds the coin.

Fig. 69.

Pass 6.—This pass is best adapted for use with three or four coins, as the chink of the coins against one another materially assists the illusion. Having to get rid of, say, four pence or florins, you take them in the right hand, as indicated in Fig. 70, viz., well back towards the wrist. Move the right hand sharply towards the left, with the fingers foremost, so that the finger-tips152 of the right hand may come smartly, at about right angles, against the palm of the left, at the same time slightly bending the fingers. The coins, instead of being shot forward (as to the eye and ear of the spectators they appear to be) into the left hand, are, in reality, retained in the hollow formed by the fingers of the right, as in Fig. 71. They are turned completely over as the hands come in contact, producing a loud chink. The left hand is, of course, closed, and the thumb of the right is allowed to sink gently on the coins, so that when the hand falls by your side, they may not make a second chink, and so betray their presence in the wrong hand.

Pass 6.—This move works best with three or four coins, as the sound of the coins clinking together really enhances the illusion. When you need to get rid of, for example, four pence or florins, hold them in your right hand, as shown in Fig. 70, positioned well back towards your wrist. Quickly move your right hand to the left, with your fingers leading the way, so that the tips of your right fingers strike the palm of your left hand at about a right angle, while slightly bending your fingers. The coins, instead of actually being thrown into the left hand (as the audience thinks they are), are actually kept in the curve formed by the fingers of your right hand, as illustrated in Fig. 71. They are completely flipped over as the hands touch, creating a loud clink. Your left hand then closes, and the thumb of your right hand gently rests on the coins, ensuring that when your right hand drops by your side, they don’t make a second clink and give away their presence in the wrong hand.

Fig. 70. Fig. 71.

Pass 7. (La Coulée).—This pass is best adapted for a coin of large diameter, like the French five-franc piece, and is but little used by English conjurors. If, however, the student has a very small hand (a serious disadvantage in conjuring generally), he may find it convenient to use the pass in question with a half-crown or penny. Take the coin in the right hand between the first and second fingers and the thumb, and in the act of apparently transferring it to the left hand, gently slide it with the ball of the thumb into the position shown in153 Fig. 72, where it is held by the pressure of the first and fourth fingers against its opposite edges, the hand remaining completely open.

Pass 7. (La Coulée).—This pass works best with a large coin, like the French five-franc piece, and is rarely used by English magicians. However, if the performer has very small hands (which is a significant disadvantage in magic), they might find it useful to use this pass with a half-crown or penny. Hold the coin in your right hand between your first and second fingers and thumb, and while it seems like you’re transferring it to your left hand, gently slide it with the tip of your thumb into the position shown in 153 Fig. 72, where it is held by the pressure of your first and fourth fingers against its opposite edges, keeping your hand completely open.

Fig. 72.
Fig. 73.

Pass 8.—The peculiarity of this pass is, that it is made while holding the wand in the hand, a case in which none of the other passes are available. Holding the wand and coin in the right hand, as indicated in Fig. 73, you strike the edge of the coin sharply against the palm of the left hand, and instantly close that hand. The effect of the movement is to drive back the coin (which should be held very lightly) into the position shown in Fig. 74, in which, being behind the first three fingers, it is completely hidden. You should lose no time in relaxing the fingers of the right hand, and gently closing them around the coin, as their straightened position, if continued, might arouse suspicion. You must, however, be careful that, in doing so, you do not allow the coin to chink against the wand, as the sound would naturally draw attention to its whereabouts.

Pass 8.—The unique thing about this pass is that it’s done while holding the wand in your hand, which makes it different from the other passes. With the wand and coin in your right hand, as shown in Fig. 73, you sharply hit the edge of the coin against your left palm and then immediately close that hand. This movement pushes the coin (which should be held very loosely) back into the position shown in Fig. 74, where it’s completely hidden behind the first three fingers. You need to quickly relax the fingers of your right hand and gently close them around the coin, as keeping them straight for too long could raise suspicion. Just be careful not to let the coin clink against the wand while doing this, as the sound would naturally draw attention to where it is.

Fig. 74.

It must not be imagined that all of the passes above given are in turn used by every performer. Almost every conjuror has his favourite pass or passes, either selected from those above described, or invented by himself. Any mode by which a coin can be held in the hand without indicating its presence may be worked up into a pass. Thus, some performers will hold a coin by its edges154 between two of the fingers, or between the thumb and the side of the hand. Others, again, hold the coin flat against the first or second joint of the second or third finger, retaining it by slightly bending the finger. The novice should experiment till he ascertains which method best suits the conformation of his own hand. We have specified the hand to and from which each pass is generally used; but if the student desires to attain special excellence, he should practise until he is able to use each from left to right, as well as from right to left. In performing before a company of spectators, and standing with the left side towards them, it is well to use a pass which apparently transfers the coin from the right hand to the left, and vice versâ. The coin is thus left in the hand farthest away from the spectators, and the performer has the benefit of the cover of the body in dropping it into the pochette, or otherwise disposing of it.

It shouldn’t be assumed that all the passes mentioned above are used by every magician. Almost every magician has their favorite pass or passes, either chosen from those described above or created by themselves. Any technique that allows a coin to be held in the hand without showing its presence can be developed into a pass. For instance, some performers hold a coin by its edges between two fingers or between the thumb and the side of the hand. Others hold the coin flat against the first or second joint of the second or third finger, keeping it in place by slightly bending the finger. Beginners should experiment until they find which method works best for their hand shape. We’ve noted the hand used for each pass, but if the student wants to achieve exceptional skill, they should practice until they can perform each pass from left to right and from right to left. When performing before an audience and standing with the left side facing them, it’s advisable to use a pass that seems to transfer the coin from the right hand to the left, and vice versa. This way, the coin is left in the hand that’s furthest from the audience, and the performer has the advantage of body cover to drop it into the pochette or dispose of it otherwise.

The student will here, as in card conjuring, find great advantage in practising before a looking-glass, before which he should, in the first place, actually do that which he afterwards pretends to do, and carefully notice the positions and motions of his hands in the first case, which he should then do his best to simulate, that there may be as little difference as possible between the pretence and the reality. He should further accustom himself always to follow with his eyes the hand in which the object is supposed to be, this being the most certain means of leading the eyes and the minds of his audience in the same direction. When he is able to perform the passes neatly with a single florin or penny, he should then practise with coins of smaller size, with two coins at once, and afterwards with three or four.

The student will find it very helpful, just like in card tricks, to practice in front of a mirror. First, he should actually perform what he later pretends to do, carefully observing the positions and movements of his hands during the initial performance. He should then do his best to mimic those movements so that there’s as little difference as possible between the real action and the imitation. He should also train himself to always follow with his eyes the hand in which the object is supposed to be, as this is the most effective way to lead the eyes and attention of the audience in the same direction. Once he can execute the moves smoothly with a single coin or penny, he should then practice with smaller coins, starting with two coins at once, and later with three or four.

155 A word of caution may here be desirable. These passes must by no means be regarded as being themselves tricks, but only as processes to be used in the performance of tricks. If the operator, after pretending to pass the coin, say, from the right hand to the left, and showing that it had vanished from the left hand, were to allow his audience to discover that it had all along remained in his right hand, they might admire the dexterity with which he had in this instance deceived their eyes, but they would henceforth guess half the secret of any trick in which palming was employed. If it is necessary immediately to reproduce the coin, the performer should do so by appearing to find it in the hair or whiskers of a spectator, or in any other place that may suit his purpose, remembering always to indicate beforehand that it has passed to such a place, thereby diverting the general attention from himself. As the coin is already in his hand, he has only to drop it to his finger-tips as the hand reaches the place he has named, in order, to all appearance, to take it from thence.

155 A word of caution is necessary here. These moves should not be seen as tricks in themselves, but rather as techniques to use in performing tricks. If the performer, after pretending to move the coin from the right hand to the left and showing that it has vanished from the left hand, allows the audience to realize that it has actually remained in the right hand, they might appreciate the skill with which he has misled them, but they will also guess part of the secret behind any trick that uses palming. If it’s essential to show the coin again right away, the performer should pretend to find it in a spectator's hair or whiskers, or in another suitable location, always indicating beforehand that it has moved to that spot, which helps draw attention away from himself. Since the coin is already in his hand, he just needs to let it drop to his fingertips as his hand reaches the designated spot, making it look like he’s taking it from there.

Fig. 75.

Having given this little piece of advice as to the hand in which the coin actually is, we must add a few words more as to the hand in which it is not. Whenever you have (apparently) placed any article either in the closed hand, or in some piece of apparatus from which it is afterwards to disappear, you should not, as a rule, show that the article has departed from the spot where you have apparently placed it, without interposing some magical process, however slight, which may colourably account for its disappearance. A mere nothing will suffice—a touch of the wand, the pronouncing of a magic formula, the pressure of a finger; but in some form or other the ceremony should never be omitted. Thus, to take a very simple example, we will suppose that by means of Pass 1 you have apparently placed in the left hand a coin, which really remains in the palm of the right. If you at once open the left hand, and show that the coin is not there, the spectators will naturally jump to the correct explanation, viz., that you did not, in reality, put the coin there at all. If, however, you delay opening the left hand for a minute or two, so as to let the audience get accustomed to the idea that the coin is therein, and then, before opening it, touch the hand mysteriously with your wand, or even simply, as you slowly open the left hand, rub the ball156 of the wrist with the second and third fingers of the hand which holds the coin (see Fig. 75), you not only give that hand an occupation apparently inconsistent with the fact of anything remaining concealed in it, but you suggest to the audience that the gesture in question is the cause of the disappearance of the coin. It is surprising what an effect even such a trifle as this has in misleading the judgment of a spectator. He knows perfectly well, in the abstract, that touching the closed hand with the wand, or rubbing it with a finger of the opposite hand, is not an adequate cause for the disappearance of the coin; but the fact being indisputable that the coin has disappeared, the mind unconsciously accepts the explanation which is thus indirectly offered. The advice here given becomes less important where, before the hand is opened, you are able to get rid of the object from that in which it originally appeared. Here the spectator is precluded from imagining that you retained it in the hand in which he first saw it, as that hand also is shown to be empty, and the absolute disappearance of the coin being a self-evident fact, you may leave the spectator to account for it in his own manner.

Having shared this little piece of advice about which hand the coin is in, we should add a few more words about the hand it is not in. Whenever you’ve (seemingly) placed an item either in a closed hand or in some apparatus from which it will later disappear, you generally shouldn't show that the item has left the spot where you supposedly placed it without using some kind of magical process, no matter how small, that can reasonably explain its disappearance. Even a simple gesture will do—a touch of your wand, saying a magic word, or pressing a finger. But you should always include some sort of ceremony. For a very straightforward example, let’s say that using Pass 1, you have seemingly put a coin in your left hand, which is actually still in the palm of your right hand. If you immediately open the left hand and reveal that the coin isn't there, the audience will naturally conclude that you never really put the coin there at all. However, if you wait a minute or two before opening the left hand, allowing the audience to get used to the idea that the coin is inside, and then, before opening it, touch your hand mysteriously with your wand, or even just rub the ball of your wrist with the second and third fingers of the hand holding the coin as you slowly open the left hand (see Fig. 75), you not only give that hand an activity that seems inconsistent with the idea of anything still being hidden in it, but you also lead the audience to think that the gesture is the reason for the coin's disappearance. It's surprising how much of an effect even such a small action can have in misleading the judgment of a spectator. They know perfectly well, in theory, that touching the closed hand with the wand or rubbing it with a finger from the opposite hand isn't a sufficient reason for the coin's disappearance; but since it's undeniable that the coin has disappeared, the mind subconsciously accepts the explanation you’re indirectly providing. This advice is less crucial when, before you open your hand, you can dispose of the object from the hand where it originally appeared. In this case, the spectator can't imagine that you still have it in that hand since it's also shown to be empty, and with the disappearance of the coin being obvious, you can let the spectator come up with their own explanation.

The various passes may be employed not only to cause the disappearance of an article, as above described, but to secretly exchange it for a substitute of similar appearance. These exchanges are of continual use in conjuring; indeed, we may almost say that three parts of its marvels depend on them. Such an exchange having been made, the substitute is left in sight of the audience, while the performer, having thus secretly gained possession of the original, disposes of it as may be necessary for the purpose of the trick. We proceed to describe various forms of changes, denoting them, as in the case of the passes, by numbers.

The different moves can be used not just to make an item vanish, as mentioned earlier, but also to secretly swap it for a similar-looking substitute. These swaps are often used in magic; in fact, we could say that about three quarters of its wonders rely on them. Once the swap is made, the substitute is visible to the audience, while the performer has quietly taken the original and uses it as needed for the trick. We will describe different types of changes, labeling them with numbers, just like we did with the moves.

157 Change 1.—You desire, we will suppose, to exchange—or, in conjuror’s parlance, to “ring”—a florin, marked by the audience, for another. You have the latter, which we will call the “substitute,” ready palmed in your left hand, of course taking care to keep the palm turned away from the audience. Taking the marked florin in the right hand, you palm it in that hand by Pass 1, but instead of closing the left hand as the fingers of the right touch it, keep that hand loosely open, and show lying on its palm the substitute, which the audience take to be the original just placed there by your right hand.

157 Change 1.—Let's say you want to switch—or, in magician's terms, to “ring”—a marked florin for another one. You have the new one, which we'll call the “substitute,” secretly held in your left hand, making sure to keep your palm facing away from the audience. You take the marked florin in your right hand and palm it using Pass 1, but instead of closing your left hand as your right fingers touch it, keep that hand open and show the substitute resting in your palm, which the audience believes is the original florin just placed there by your right hand.

Change 2.—This is the same as Change 1, save that you use with the right hand Pass 2 instead of Pass 1.

Change 2.—This is the same as Change 1, except that you use the right hand for Pass 2 instead of Pass 1.

Change 3.—Here also you use Pass 2, but you have the substitute palmed in the right hand instead of the left. Taking up the marked florin with the same hand, you make with it Pass 2, at the same instant dropping the substitute from its palm into the left hand. This is a very neat and effective change. Some performers are expert enough to make this change by means of Pass 1 instead of Pass 2, the genuine coin taking the place of the substitute in the palm; but this demands dexterity of a more than average order.

Update 3.—In this case, you also use Pass 2, but you hold the substitute in your right hand instead of your left. When you pick up the marked florin with the same hand, you perform Pass 2 while simultaneously dropping the substitute from your palm into your left hand. This is a very smooth and effective change. Some performers are skilled enough to do this change using Pass 1 instead of Pass 2, with the real coin replacing the substitute in the palm; however, this requires above-average dexterity.

Change 4.—For this change you must have the substitute palmed in the right hand, and take the marked coin between the thumb and second finger of the left. Then by Pass 4 appear to take it in the right hand, and at the proper moment exhibit the substitute, which you have already in that hand.

Change 4.—For this change, you need to have the substitute hidden in your right hand and hold the marked coin between your thumb and index finger of your left hand. Then, using Pass 4, pretend to take the marked coin in your right hand, and at the right moment, show the substitute that you already have in that hand.

Change 5.—Have the substitute palmed in your right hand, and hold the marked coin openly on the palm of the left. Pick up the genuine coin with the right hand, at the same moment releasing the palmed substitute, which will accordingly fall into the left hand, the fingers of which should be held slightly hollowed, the better to conceal it. Show the marked coin in the right hand, and say, “You have seen me take up this coin visibly, I will make it return invisibly,” or make some other appropriate observation. Close the left hand, make Pass 1 or 2 with the right hand, with a motion towards the left, but without bringing the hands near together. The marked coin will, after the pass, be concealed in your right palm. Immediately opening your left hand, you show the substitute, which the audience believe to be the original which they have just seen.

Change five.—Hold the substitute in your right hand and keep the marked coin visible on the palm of your left. Lift the genuine coin with your right hand while simultaneously dropping the palmed substitute into your left hand, which should be slightly cupped to hide it better. Show the marked coin in your right hand and say, “You’ve seen me pick up this coin openly; I will make it disappear unseen,” or say something else fitting. Close your left hand, make Pass 1 or 2 with your right hand, moving it toward your left without bringing the hands too close. After the pass, the marked coin will be hidden in your right palm. Then, quickly open your left hand to reveal the substitute, which the audience will think is the original coin they just saw.

158 There are many other changes; indeed, they are almost too numerous to describe. If you are able to palm and to make the various passes neatly, you will readily invent methods of “ringing” for yourself; in the meantime, you will find that the above will answer every necessary purpose, so far as coin tricks are concerned.

158 There are many other changes; in fact, they're almost too many to list. If you can handle the coins and perform the different moves smoothly, you'll easily come up with your own ways to “ring” them. For now, you'll find that what I've mentioned above will serve every essential purpose when it comes to coin tricks.


159

159

CHAPTER VII.
Coin Tricks Without Props.

There is an immense variety of tricks with coin—some with apparatus, some without; some demanding a thorough mastery of sleight-of-hand; some so simple as to be within the compass of the merest tyro. The only classification which we shall attempt will be to divide them into such as do and such as do not require special apparatus.

There is a huge variety of coin tricks—some using props, some not; some needing a deep understanding of sleight of hand; others so simple that even a complete beginner can handle them. The only classification we will attempt is to divide them into those that do require special props and those that do not.

A Florin being spun upon the Table, to tell blindfold whether it falls head or tail upwards.—You borrow a florin, and spin it, or invite some other person to spin it, on the table (which must be without a cloth). You allow it to spin itself out, and immediately announce, without seeing it, whether it has fallen head or tail upwards. This may be repeated any number of times with the same result, though you may be blindfolded, and placed at the further end of the apartment.

A florin is being flipped on the table to randomly see if it lands on heads or tails.—You borrow a florin and spin it, or you can invite someone else to spin it on the table (which should be bare). You let it spin until it stops, and then immediately say, without looking, whether it landed heads or tails. You can repeat this as many times as you want with the same outcome, even if you’re blindfolded and placed at the other end of the room.

The secret lies in the use of a florin of your own, on one face of which (say on the “tail” side) you have cut at the extreme edge a little notch, thereby causing a minute point or tooth of metal to project from that side of the coin. If a coin so prepared be spun on the table, and should chance to go down with the notched side upwards, it will run down like an ordinary coin, with a long continuous “whirr,” the sound growing fainter and fainter till it finally ceases; but if it should run down with the notched side downwards, the friction of the point against the table will reduce this final whirr to half its ordinary length, and the coin will finally go down with a sort of “flop.” The difference of sound is not sufficiently marked to attract the notice of the spectators, but is perfectly distinguishable by an160 attentive ear. If, therefore, you have notched the coin on the “tail” side, and it runs down slowly, you will cry “tail;” if quickly, “head.”

The secret is in using your own florin, where you’ve made a small notch on the very edge of one side (let’s say the “tail” side), which creates a tiny protrusion of metal. If you spin this coin on the table and it lands with the notched side facing up, it will spin down like a normal coin, emitting a long continuous “whirr” that gradually fades until it stops. However, if it lands with the notched side facing down, the friction from the point against the table will shorten the final sound to about half its usual length, and the coin will end with a sort of “flop.” The difference in sound isn't obvious enough to draw attention from bystanders, but it's clearly noticeable to a focused listener. So, if the notched side is facing up and the coin slows down, you would say “tail;” if it spins down quickly, you’d say “head.”

If you professedly use a borrowed florin, you must adroitly change it for your own, under pretence of showing how to spin it, or the like.

If you claim to be using a borrowed florin, you have to cleverly swap it for your own, pretending to show how to spin it or something similar.

You should not allow your audience to imagine that you are guided by the sound of the coin, as, if once they have the clue, they will easily learn to distinguish the two sounds. They are not, however, likely to discover the secret of the notch, and if any one professes to have found out the trick, you may, by again substituting an unprepared florin, safely challenge him to perform it.

You shouldn't let your audience think that you're driven by the sound of money, because once they catch on, they'll quickly learn to tell the two sounds apart. However, they're unlikely to uncover the secret of the notch, and if someone claims to have figured out the trick, you can safely challenge them to perform it again by using an unprepared florin.

Odd or Even, or the Mysterious Addition.—This is a trick of almost childish simplicity, depending upon an elementary arithmetical principle. We have, however, known it to occasion great perplexity, even to more than ordinarily acute persons.

Odd or Even, or the Mysterious Sum.—This is a trick that's almost childishly simple, based on a basic math principle. However, we've seen it cause considerable confusion, even for people who are usually quite sharp.

You take a handful of coins or counters, and invite another person to do the same, and to ascertain privately whether the number he has taken is odd or even. You request the company to observe that you have not asked him a single question, but that you are able, notwithstanding, to divine and counteract his most secret intentions, and that you will in proof of this, yourself take a number of coins, and add them to those he has taken, when, if his number was odd, the total shall be even; if his number was even, the total shall be odd. Requesting him to drop the coins he holds into a hat, held on high by one of the company, you drop in a certain number on your own account. He is now asked whether his number was odd or even; and, the coins being counted, the total number proves to be, as you stated, exactly the reverse. The experiment is tried again and again, with different numbers, but the result is the same.

You take a handful of coins or counters and ask another person to do the same, privately figuring out whether the number they have is odd or even. You invite everyone to notice that you haven’t asked them any questions, yet you can still guess their most secret intentions, and to prove this, you will take a number of coins yourself and add them to theirs. If their number was odd, the total will be even; if their number was even, the total will be odd. You ask them to drop their coins into a hat held up high by someone else, and you drop a certain number in as well. Then, you ask them whether their number was odd or even; once the coins are counted, the total proves to be exactly the opposite of what you stated. This experiment is repeated multiple times with different numbers, but the outcome remains the same.

The secret lies in the simple arithmetical fact, that if you add an odd number to an even number the result will be odd; if you add an odd number to an odd number the result will be even. You have only to take care, therefore, that the number you yourself add, whether large or small, shall always be odd.

The secret is in the straightforward math fact that when you add an odd number to an even number, the result is odd; when you add an odd number to another odd number, the result is even. So, you just need to make sure that the number you add, no matter how big or small, is always odd.

161

161

To change a Florin into a Penny, back again, and then to pass the same invisibly into the pocket of the owner.—This is a trick of genuine sleight-of-hand, and will test your expertness in two or three different passes. Having beforehand palmed a penny in your right hand, you borrow from one of the company a florin (or half-crown), requesting the owner to mark it in such manner that he may be able to identify it. Make him stand up facing you, your own right side and his left being towards the audience. Taking the marked florin between the fingers and thumb of the right hand (the back of which, from your position, will be toward the spectators), you ask him whether he is nervous, whether he can hold fast, and so on. On receiving satisfactory replies, you state that you are about to put him to the test, and request him to hold out his right hand, telling him that you are about to count three, and that at the word “three” you will drop the florin into his hand, which he is to close tightly upon it. You accordingly count, “One! two! three!” each time making a motion as of dropping the florin into his hand, and at the word “three” actually do drop it, when he closes his hand upon it, as directed; but you are not satisfied. “That won’t do, my dear sir,” you exclaim; “you are not half quick enough—you allow all the electric fluid to escape. We’ll try once more, and pray be a little quicker in your movements. Oblige me with the coin again. Now, then, are you ready?—One! two!! THREE!!!” giving the words with great energy. As you say “three” you stamp your foot, and apparently again drop the florin, but really drop the penny instead, by Change 3. He is sure this time to close his hand very quickly, and, having no reason to the contrary, naturally believes that it is the florin which he holds, your previous feint, when you did actually drop the florin, being specially designed to lead him to that conclusion. You next request him to hold the closed hand high, that all may see it. This draws the general attention to him, and away from yourself, and enables you to place in your palm the florin, which was left, after the change, in the bend of your right thumb. You continue, “You did better that time, sir. Now, what will you bet me that I cannot take that two-shilling-piece out of your hand without your knowing it?” Whether he admits or defies your power, the course of the trick is the same.162 “Well,” you say at last, “you seem so determined that I am almost afraid to take the whole of the two-shilling piece away from you, I think I must be content with one-and-elevenpence. Allow me to touch your hand with my wand.” You do so, and on opening his hand he discovers that the two-shilling piece has changed into a penny.

To convert a Florin into a Penny, then back again, and finally make the same coin disappear and reappear in the owner's pocket without them noticing.—This is a skillful sleight-of-hand trick that will challenge your expertise with a few different moves. First, secretly palm a penny in your right hand. Then, borrow a florin (or half-crown) from someone in the group, asking them to mark it in a way that will help them recognize it later. Have them stand facing you, with your right side and their left side toward the audience. Take the marked florin between your fingers and thumb of your right hand (which will be facing away from the spectators), and ask the person if they are nervous, if they can hold on tight, and so forth. When they respond positively, inform them that you're going to put them to the test and ask them to extend their right hand. Tell them you will count to three and that at the word “three,” you’ll drop the florin into their hand, which they should grasp securely. You then count, “One! two! three!” each time gesturing as if you’re about to drop the florin into their hand, and at “three,” you actually drop it, prompting them to close their hand around it as instructed. However, you pretend to be unsatisfied. “That won’t work, my dear sir,” you say; “you need to be quicker—you let all the energy escape. Let’s try again, and please be a bit faster. Hand me the coin once more. Ready?—One! two!!THREE!!!” delivering these words with enthusiasm. As you say “three,” you stamp your foot and appear to drop the florin again, but really drop the penny instead, using Change 3. This time, they're sure to close their hand quickly and, believing they’re holding the florin, based on your earlier trick, is completely led to that conclusion. Next, you ask them to hold their closed hand high so everyone can see it. This shifts the audience's focus to them and away from you, allowing you to place the leftover florin, which was hidden in the bend of your right thumb. You continue, “You did better this time, sir. Now, what will you bet that I can take that two-shilling piece from your hand without you realizing it?” Whether they accept your challenge or insist you can't do it, the trick proceeds the same way. “Well,” you finally say, “you appear so confident that I’m almost afraid to take the entire two-shilling piece away from you; I guess I’ll settle for one-and-elevenpence. May I touch your hand with my wand?” You do this, and when he opens his hand, he finds that the two-shilling piece has transformed into a penny.

You thank him for his assistance, hand him the penny, and dismiss him to his seat. Naturally enough, he objects to accept the penny in place of his florin. You pretend at first not to understand him, but, as if suddenly enlightened, you exclaim, “Oh, the florin, you want the florin? My dear sir,” indicating the penny, “that is the florin. At present it is under an electric influence, but you have only to wait till that goes off (it won’t take more than three weeks or so), when it will resume its former appearance. You don’t believe me, I see; but I can easily convince you by discharging the electric fluid, when the change will take place at once. Observe!” You take the penny between the thumb and second finger of the left hand (after the manner indicated in Fig. 66), and make Change 4, making a gentle rubbing movement with the fingers and thumb of the right hand before you open that hand and disclose the restored florin, at the same time carelessly dropping your left hand to your side, and letting fall the penny into your pochette on that side. Bring up the left hand again, showing, but without apparent design, that it is empty; and still holding the coin in the right hand, make Pass 1, as if you transferred it to the left hand. Make a motion with the left hand, as if handing the coin, and say to the owner, “Will you be good enough to examine the florin, and see that it is the same you marked.” He naturally holds out his hand for the coin, which he believes to be in your left hand, and which you pretend to give him; but it has vanished. “Well,” you say, “is it the same florin?” Looking, probably, rather foolish, he replies that he has not got it. “Not got it!” you say; “why I have just given it to you. I passed it into your pocket. Look for yourself.” He forthwith begins to search his pockets. “You are trying the wrong one,” you say; “this is the pocket.” As if desiring merely to assist his search, you plunge into any pocket which he has not yet tried your right hand (in the palm of which the coin was left after the pass), and letting the coin drop163 to the finger ends, take it out as if it were already in the pocket, as nine-tenths of the audience will believe it to have been.

You thank him for his help, give him the penny, and tell him to take his seat. Naturally, he protests, wanting the florin instead of the penny. At first, you act like you don’t understand him, but then, as if you just realized something, you say, “Oh, you want the florin? My dear sir,” pointing to the penny, “that is the florin. Right now it’s under an electric influence, but if you wait until that wears off (it won’t take more than three weeks or so), it will look like it did before. You don’t believe me, do you? I can easily prove it by discharging the electric fluid, and then the change will happen instantly. Watch!” You take the penny between your thumb and index finger of your left hand (as indicated in Fig. 66), and make Change 4, gently rubbing your fingers and thumb together before you open your hand to show the restored florin, while casually dropping your left hand to your side and letting the penny fall into your pochette on that side. You raise your left hand again, showing that it’s empty, and still holding the coin in your right hand, make Pass 1, as if you’re transferring it to your left hand. You gesture with your left hand, pretending to hand over the coin, and say to the owner, “Could you please check the florin and see if it’s the same one you marked.” He naturally extends his hand for the coin, thinking it's in your left hand, but it has vanished. “Well,” you say, “is it the same florin?” Looking a bit foolish, he admits he doesn’t have it. “Don’t have it!” you reply; “but I just gave it to you. I passed it into your pocket. Look for yourself.” He immediately starts searching his pockets. “You’re checking the wrong one,” you say; “this is the pocket.” Trying to help, you reach into any pocket he hasn’t checked using your right hand (where the coin was left after the pass), and let the coin drop to your fingertips, taking it out as if it was already in the pocket, as nine-tenths of the audience will believe it to be.

To make a marked Florin and Penny, wrapped in separate Handkerchiefs, change places at command.—Borrow a florin (or half-crown) and a penny, requesting the owners to mark them, that they may be sure of knowing them again. Also borrow two pocket handkerchiefs.

To make a marked Florin and Penny, each wrapped in separate handkerchiefs, switch places on command.—Borrow a florin (or half-crown) and a penny, asking the owners to mark them so they can easily recognize them later. Also, borrow two pocket handkerchiefs.

It may be well to mention, once for all, that it is generally desirable to borrow from the audience, when you can, any indifferent article used in a trick (e.g., a hat, a watch, or a handkerchief), as you thereby seem to give a guarantee for the absence of preparation. Articles so borrowed are taken upon trust, so to speak, and by making a secret exchange you may still use a prepared substitute, which will escape the close scrutiny to which any article confessedly provided by yourself would be subjected.

It’s worth mentioning that it’s usually a good idea to borrow any neutral item from the audience when you can, like a hat, watch, or handkerchief, during a trick. This makes it seem like there was no preparation involved. The items borrowed are trusted, and by discreetly swapping them out, you can still use a prepared substitute without it being noticed, unlike an item you openly provided, which would be closely examined.

While the articles above mentioned are being collected from the audience, you secretly palm in your left hand a penny of your own. Receiving the borrowed coins in your right hand, apparently transfer them to the left, but really only transfer the florin, the marked penny remaining in your right hand. This may be effected by making Pass 2 with the marked penny, at the same time allowing the marked florin to drop from the palm as directed in Change 3. Take the earliest opportunity of transferring the marked penny to the palm of the right hand, and showing the marked florin and the substitute penny (which the spectators take to be the genuine one) on the open left hand, place them on your table, begging the audience to observe that they do not for one moment leave their sight. Then picking up with the right hand the florin, on which you may casually show the mark, and throwing one of the borrowed handkerchiefs over the hand, take hold (through the handkerchief) of apparently the florin which you have just shown, but really of the marked penny, and transfer the marked florin to the palm. The shape of the coin, which the audience take to be the florin, will be distinctly seen through the handkerchief, whose folds will fall down around it. Give the handkerchief containing the coin to some person, requesting him to hold it tightly just below the coin, and well above his head, that164 all may see it.J Now take up the substitute penny, and apparently wrap it, in like manner, in the second handkerchief, really substituting as before the coin concealed in your palm. The substitute penny, which remains in your right hand, you must drop into your pochette or profonde at the first available opportunity. Give the second handkerchief to another person to hold. The first handkerchief now, to all appearance, contains the florin, and the second the penny. Invite the two persons to stand face to face, the hands holding the handkerchiefs just touching, and after gravely cautioning them to hold very tight, etc., etc., give their hands a gentle rap with your wand, saying, “Change!” Upon examination, the coins are found to have obeyed your commands.

While you collect the coins from the audience, discreetly slip a penny of your own into your left hand. When you receive the borrowed coins in your right hand, pretend to transfer them to your left hand, but actually only transfer the florin, keeping the marked penny in your right hand. You can do this by making Pass 2 with the marked penny while allowing the marked florin to drop from your palm as described in Change 3. As soon as you can, move the marked penny to your right hand’s palm, showing the marked florin and what seems to be a genuine penny on your open left hand, placing them on your table. Ask the audience to note that these coins do not leave their sight for a moment. Then, pick up the florin with your right hand, casually revealing the mark, and drape one of the borrowed handkerchiefs over your hand. Grasp what looks like the florin through the handkerchief, but actually hold the marked penny, transferring the marked florin to your palm. The audience will clearly see the shape of the coin they think is the florin through the handkerchief, with the folds falling around it. Hand the handkerchief containing the coin to someone and ask them to hold it tightly just below the coin, well above their head, so that everyone can see it.164 Now take the substitute penny and wrap it in the second handkerchief in a similar manner, actually substituting the coin that’s hidden in your palm. You should drop the substitute penny into your pochette or profonde at the first opportunity. Hand the second handkerchief to another person to hold. The first handkerchief now appears to hold the florin, while the second holds the penny. Invite the two people to stand facing each other, with their hands holding the handkerchiefs just touching, and after seriously warning them to hold tight, give their hands a gentle tap with your wand, saying, “Change!” When they examine the coins, they will find they've followed your instructions.

J This takes it out of the range of his eyes, and prevents his indulging any desire for a premature examination of the contents.

J This keeps it out of his sight and stops him from wanting to take an early look at what's inside.

Managed with neatness and address, this is an admirable drawing-room trick; the previous marking of the coins apparently precluding any possibility of using substitutes, and allowing the spectator no alternative but to admit that by some mysterious means the identical coins have changed places.

Managed with care and skill, this is a remarkable parlor trick; the prior marking of the coins seemingly rules out any chance of using substitutes, leaving the spectator with no option but to accept that, by some mysterious method, the exact coins have swapped places.

A similar trick may be performed without the use of the handkerchief. As before, you borrow a marked florin and penny, exchanging the latter for one of your own, and palm the genuine one. Taking up the marked florin from the table, you hand it to some one to hold, substituting for it as you do so the genuine penny by Change 3, as indicated in the trick last described. The florin is thus left in your right hand. Palm it, and take up the substitute penny between the second finger and thumb of the left hand, and pretend by Pass 4 to transfer it to the right, which you immediately close. Drop the penny into your pochette on the left side, and announce that by your magic power you will compel the penny which you hold to change places with the florin held by the spectator. When the hands are opened, the supposed change is found to be accomplished.

A similar trick can be done without using a handkerchief. As before, you borrow a marked florin and a penny, swap the penny for one of your own, and hide the real one in your palm. Pick up the marked florin from the table and give it to someone to hold, replacing it with the real penny as you do so, just like in the previously described trick. The florin is left in your right hand. Keep it palmed, and pick up the substitute penny with your left hand using your thumb and second finger, pretending to transfer it to your right hand, which you immediately close. Drop the penny into your pochette on your left side and claim that through your magical powers, you will make the penny you hold switch places with the florin being held by the spectator. When you open your hands, the supposed change is revealed.

To make two marked Coins, wrapped in separate Handkerchiefs, come together in one of them.—The coins and handkerchiefs borrowed for the purpose of the last trick will again serve in this one. Palm in your right hand a penny of your own, and throw over the165 same hand one of the borrowed handkerchiefs. This will effectually conceal the substitute penny, which you may now take between the finger and thumb. Holding the handkerchief spread out upon the open hand, you take up with the left hand the marked penny and place it on the handkerchief, as if to wrap it therein, but at the same time with the third finger push a fold of the handkerchief under the substitute penny in your right hand. You now invert the handkerchief over your left hand for a minute, allowing the marked penny to drop back into that hand, and at the same time twist the fold already mentioned around the substitute. The audience see the shape of a coin wrapped up in the handkerchief, and naturally believe that it is that of the marked penny which you have apparently placed inside it. In reality, it is that of your own penny, wrapped merely in an outside fold. You now hand the handkerchief to some one to hold, requesting him to grasp the coin, and hold tightly.

Make two marked coins, each wrapped in its own handkerchief, meet inside one of the handkerchiefs.—The coins and handkerchiefs borrowed for the last trick will work for this one as well. Hold a penny of your own in your right hand and throw one of the borrowed handkerchiefs over that same hand. This will effectively hide the substitute penny, which you can now take between your thumb and finger. With the handkerchief spread out in your open hand, use your left hand to pick up the marked penny and place it on the handkerchief as if you’re going to wrap it up. At the same time, use your third finger to push a fold of the handkerchief under the substitute penny in your right hand. Now flip the handkerchief over your left hand for a moment, letting the marked penny fall back into that hand while also twisting the mentioned fold around the substitute. The audience will see the shape of a coin wrapped in the handkerchief and will naturally believe it’s the marked penny you’ve put inside it. In reality, it’s just your own penny, wrapped only in an outer fold. You can now hand the handkerchief to someone to hold, asking them to grasp the coin and hold it tightly.

Fig. 76.

The marked penny, it will be remembered, remains in your left hand, and the marked florin on the table. As you go to take up the latter, you transfer the penny to your right hand, and palm it; then pick up the florin, holding it at the tips of the fingers. Spread the second handkerchief on the open palm of the left hand. Bring the florin down smartly upon it, and by the same movement let the penny fall from the palm on to the handkerchief. The two coins will now be lying (covered by the right hand) on the handkerchief, a couple of inches apart. Close the left hand on both coins, and turn the hand over, so that the edges of the handkerchief hang down. With the right hand grasp the handkerchief five or six inches below the coins. Take one of these through the handkerchief between the finger and thumb of the left166 hand, letting the other fall loose inside the handkerchief, which you then invite some one to hold in like manner, but in a horizontal position. (See Fig. 76.) This position is adopted in order that the two coins may not, by any accidental chink, prematurely disclose the fact that both are already in the handkerchief.

The marked penny, it will be remembered, stays in your left hand, while the marked florin is on the table. As you reach for the florin, you switch the penny to your right hand and hide it in your palm; then pick up the florin, holding it by the tips of your fingers. Spread the second handkerchief on your open left palm. Bring the florin down quickly onto it, and at the same time let the penny drop from your palm onto the handkerchief. The two coins will now be lying (covered by your right hand) on the handkerchief, a few inches apart. Close your left hand over both coins and turn your hand over so that the edges of the handkerchief hang down. With your right hand, grab the handkerchief about five or six inches below the coins. Take one of them through the handkerchief using the thumb and finger of your left hand, letting the other fall loose inside the handkerchief, which you then invite someone to hold in a similar way, but horizontally. (See Fig. 76.) This position is chosen so that the two coins won’t accidentally reveal that both are already in the handkerchief.

Fig. 77.

You now announce that you are about to make both coins pass into one handkerchief. Advancing to the person who holds the first handkerchief, you request him, still maintaining his hold, to remove his hand four or five inches below the coin, to give you room to operate. First showing that your hand is empty, you gently rub the substitute penny through the handkerchief between your finger and thumb, when, being only wrapped within a fold, it quickly falls into your hand. No one ever thinks of inquiring at this point whether it is the marked one or not. Taking it in the left hand, in position for Pass 4, you say to the person holding the second handkerchief “Having extracted this penny from the one handkerchief, I will now pass it into the other. I won’t even touch the handkerchief, but will simply take the coin in my hand, and say, ‘Pass!’ Will you be good enough, at the word ‘pass,’ to let go of the coin you are holding, but still keep hold of the handkerchief with the other hand.” Appearing, by Pass 4, to take the penny in the right hand, you open that hand with a quick motion towards the handkerchief, saying, “Pass!” The person holding the handkerchief looses his hold, as directed, when the two coins are heard to chink together, as though the second coin had just arrived in the handkerchief, and on examination they are, of course, found to be those marked.

You now announce that you're about to make both coins disappear into one handkerchief. Moving to the person holding the first handkerchief, you ask them, while still holding it, to lower their hand four or five inches below the coin to give you space to work. First showing that your hand is empty, you lightly rub the substitute penny through the handkerchief between your finger and thumb. Since it's only wrapped in a fold, it quickly drops into your hand. No one thinks to ask at this point whether it’s the marked one or not. Taking it in your left hand, in position for Pass 4, you say to the person holding the second handkerchief, “Since I’ve taken this penny from one handkerchief, I’ll now make it move to the other. I won’t even touch the handkerchief; I’ll just take the coin in my hand and say, ‘Pass!’ Could you please let go of the coin you’re holding at the word ‘pass,’ but keep holding the handkerchief with the other hand?” Making it seem like you're taking the penny in your right hand for Pass 4, you quickly open that hand toward the handkerchief and say, “Pass!” The person holding the handkerchief releases their grip as instructed, and you hear both coins clink together as if the second coin just landed in the handkerchief. When checked, they are, of course, found to be the marked ones.

167 We may here describe another and still neater mode (the invention, we believe, of M. Robert-Houdin) of apparently wrapping a coin securely in a handkerchief, though really only covered by an outer fold.

167 We can now describe another and even better method (which we believe was invented by M. Robert-Houdin) of seemingly wrapping a coin securely in a handkerchief, while it is actually just hidden by an outer fold.

Fig. 78.

Holding the coin upright between the fingers and thumb of the left hand, throw the handkerchief fairly over it. Having shown that it is fairly covered, remark, “But perhaps you may fancy I have changed the coin. Allow me to show you that I have not.” With the right hand, palm upwards, take the coin through the handkerchief, (as shown in Fig. 77), between the first and second fingers of that hand. For a moment let go with the left hand (but without removing it from under the handkerchief). Turn over the right hand towards yourself, and again seize the coin with the left hand; but this time nip the opposite edge of the coin to that which it first held, and through the double thickness of the handkerchief. Remove the right hand from the coin, and with it raise the outer edge of the handkerchief and show the coin, as in Fig. 78. Then let the edges of the handkerchief fall. Apparently the coin is underneath, and in the centre of the handkerchief; but in reality it is outside, lying in a slight fold on the side away from the spectators.

Holding the coin upright between the fingers and thumb of your left hand, drape the handkerchief over it. After showing that it’s completely covered, say, “But you might think I’ve switched the coin. Let me show you that I haven't.” With your right hand, palm facing up, take the coin through the handkerchief (as shown in Fig. 77), using your first and second fingers of that hand. For a second, let go with your left hand (but keep it under the handkerchief). Turn your right hand toward yourself and grab the coin with your left hand again, this time pinching the opposite edge of the coin compared to what you held before, through the double layer of the handkerchief. Remove your right hand from the coin and use it to lift the outer edge of the handkerchief to show the coin, as in Fig. 78. Then let the edges of the handkerchief drop. It appears that the coin is underneath and in the center of the handkerchief, but in reality, it's on the outside, resting in a slight fold on the side away from the spectators.

The above description sounds intricate, but, if carefully followed with the coin and handkerchief will be found perfectly simple in168 practice. It is worth while taking some pains to acquire this sleight, as it is of great value in coin tricks.

The above description sounds complicated, but if you follow it closely with the coin and handkerchief, you’ll find it really simple in168 practice. It’s worth putting in the effort to learn this sleight, as it’s really useful in coin tricks.

To Pull Four Florins or Half-crowns through a Handkerchief.—You begin by borrowing four marked half-crowns, florins, or penny-pieces, and a silk or cambric handkerchief. You then request the assistance of a very strong man. This gives an opportunity for a little fun in the selection. Having at last found a volunteer to your liking, you seat him on a chair facing the company. Spreading the handkerchief on your left palm, and placing the four coins upon it, you close your hand upon them through the handkerchief, and hand them to him, requesting him to hold them firmly. Then, as if suddenly recollecting yourself, you say, “Pardon me, I have omitted one little detail which is rather important. Oblige me with the handkerchief again for one moment, if you please. I ought to have shown the company that there are no holes in it.” (The last sentence should not be pronounced until you have gained possession of the handkerchief, as the company might possibly declare themselves satisfied of the fact without examination, which would not answer your purpose.). The handkerchief being returned to you, you spread it out to show that it is free from holes, coming among the audience to do so, and appearing to lay great stress upon the fact. Again spreading it over your left hand, you count the coins one by one upon it; then giving a glance round at the company, you say, as you quickly return to your platform, “You have all seen that the four coins are fairly wrapped in the handkerchief,” or make any other remark in order to draw the general attention, as a sharp, quick remark almost always will, to your face and away from your hands. At the same moment you move the left thumb over the face of the coins, thereby covering them with a fold of the handkerchief, and seize them, through the fold thus made, between the thumb and fingers of the right hand, as indicated in Fig. 79, immediately withdrawing the left hand. The coins will now be held in the right hand, the handkerchief hanging down loosely around them. To any one who has not watched your movements with more than ordinary vigilance, it will appear that the coins are within and under the handkerchief, though they are, in reality, wrapped in an external fold. Giving169 them a twist round in the handkerchief, you hand it to the person assisting you, asking him to say whether the money is still there, to which he naturally replies in the affirmative. You then tell him to grasp the handkerchief with both hands three or four inches below the coins, and to hold as tightly as he possibly can. Placing your wand under your right arm, and taking hold of the coins (through the handkerchief) with both hands, the right hand undermost, you begin to pull against him, making a show of pulling with great force, and remarking that you are very glad it is not your handkerchief, that you should not have thought he was so strong, etc. Meanwhile, and while the company are enjoying the discomfiture of the owner of the handkerchief, you untwist the latter, and secretly get the money out of the fold into your right hand, and palm it therein. Give one last pull with your left hand, and let go smartly, observing that you fear you must give it up, and own yourself conquered. Take your wand in your right hand; this will make it seem natural for you to keep that hand closed, and will materially aid in concealing the fact that the money is therein. Your antagonist, or the spectators for him, will by this time have discovered that the money has vanished; but you pretend to be unconscious of the fact, and request him to give it back, that you may return it to the owners. He naturally declares that he has not got it. With all the seriousness that you can command, you insist that he has it, and that he must restore it. On his continued denial you suggest that he should search his pockets, which you tap, one after another, with your wand, each giving a metallic sound as if containing money; but the coins are still not to be found. At last, after all his pockets have170 been tried in vain, you, as if upon a sudden thought, tap the leg of his trousers, the metallic chink still following every tap of the wand till you have nearly reached his feet, when you exclaim, “Yes, there it is. Will you have the kindness to put your foot on that chair?” He does so, and quickly transferring your wand to the left hand, with the fingers of the right you turn up the edge of the trouser, giving at the same time a slight shake, when the four coins are seen to fall out, to the great surprise of the victim.

To Pull Four Florins or Half-Crowns through a Handkerchief.—You start by borrowing four marked half-crowns, florins, or penny pieces, along with a silk or cambric handkerchief. Next, you ask a very strong person for help. This gives you a chance to have a little fun with the selection. Once you’ve found a suitable volunteer, you sit him down on a chair facing the audience. You spread the handkerchief on your left palm and place the four coins on top of it. Then, you close your hand over the coins through the handkerchief and give it to him, asking him to hold it tightly. As if suddenly remembering something, you say, “Excuse me, I forgot to mention one little detail that's quite important. Please, hand me the handkerchief again for just a moment. I should have shown everyone that there are no holes in it.” (You should only say the last sentence once you have the handkerchief back since the audience might claim they see no holes without checking, which wouldn’t help your trick.). Once you get the handkerchief back, you spread it out to prove that it has no holes, moving into the audience to do so while emphasizing this fact. After that, spread it over your left hand and count the coins one by one on top of it. Then, giving a quick look at the audience, you say, as you hastily return to your platform, “You've all seen that the four coins are securely wrapped in the handkerchief,” or make some other remark to divert their attention from your hands and toward your face. At the same time, you slide your left thumb over the top of the coins, covering them with a fold of the handkerchief, and grasp them, through that fold, with your right hand's thumb and fingers, as shown in Fig. 79, quickly withdrawing your left hand. The coins will now be in your right hand, with the handkerchief hanging loosely around them. To anyone who hasn't been watching closely, it will seem the coins are under the handkerchief, although they are actually wrapped in an external fold. You give them a twist in the handkerchief and hand it to the helper, asking him to confirm whether the money is still there—he will naturally say yes. Then you instruct him to grip the handkerchief with both hands a few inches below the coins and hold on as tightly as he can. Setting your wand under your right arm and gripping the coins (through the handkerchief) with both hands, with the right hand underneath, you start to pull against him, putting on a big show of effort while saying you’re glad it’s not your handkerchief, that you didn’t think he was so strong, etc. Meanwhile, while the audience enjoys the discomfort of the handkerchief's owner, you secretly untwist it and slide the money into your right hand, palming it. You give one last pull with your left hand, then release quickly, stating that you fear you have to give up and admit defeat. Take your wand in your right hand; this will make it seem natural to keep that hand closed and will help conceal the fact that the money is there. By this time, your opponent or the onlookers on his behalf will realize the money has disappeared; but you act as if you're unaware and ask him to give it back so you can return it to its rightful owners. He naturally insists he doesn’t have it. With all the seriousness you can muster, you insist he has it and must return it. When he continues to deny it, you suggest he check his pockets, tapping each one with your wand, which gives a metallic sound as if there’s money inside; however, the coins are still nowhere to be found. Finally, after checking all his pockets in vain, you tap the leg of his trousers, producing the same metallic sound with each tap until you’re nearly at his feet, when you exclaim, “Yes, there it is. Could you please put your foot on that chair?” He does so, then quickly shifting your wand to your left hand, you use your right fingers to flip up the edge of his trousers. Giving it a slight shake at the same time, the four coins fall out, to the great surprise of the victim.

Fig. 79.

This effect is produced as follows: The coins being in your right hand, you introduce them with the second, third, and fourth fingers under the edge of the trouser; then, with the first finger and thumb which are left outside, you nip them through the cloth, and hold them an instant till you have withdrawn the remaining fingers, when with a slight shake you let them fall.

This effect is created like this: With the coins in your right hand, use your second, third, and fourth fingers to slide them under the edge of your pants. Then, with your first finger and thumb remaining outside, pinch them through the fabric and hold them for a moment until you pull your other fingers away. Finally, give a slight shake to let them drop.

The metallic chink on tapping the pockets may be produced in two ways. One method is to use a hollow metal wand, japanned to match the one you ordinarily use, and containing throughout its length a loose piece of thick wire, which, striking against the sides of the tube, exactly imitates the chink of money. The other mode is to use merely the ordinary wand, allowing the end which you hold to chink against the money held in the same hand. With a little practice the effect is equally deceptive as with the special wand.

The metallic chink you hear when tapping the pockets can be made in two ways. One way is to use a hollow metal wand, painted to match the one you usually use, and filled with a loose piece of thick wire that strikes against the sides of the tube, perfectly mimicking the sound of money. The other method is to use the regular wand, letting the end you hold knock against the money in the same hand. With some practice, the effect is just as convincing as with the special wand.

To pass a Marked Florin (or Half-crown) into the Centre of two Oranges in Succession.—For this excellent trick a little previous preparation is necessary. A slit, an inch and a half deep, and just large enough to admit a florin, is made in each of two oranges, and in one of them a florin (which for distinction we will call No. 1) is placed. These must be put in readiness behind the scenes, or so placed as to be out of sight of the audience.

To pass a Marked Florin (or Half-crown) between two Oranges in succession.—For this amazing trick, you need to do a little prep work first. Make a slit about an inch and a half deep and just big enough to fit a florin in each of the two oranges, and put a florin (which we’ll refer to as No. 1) inside one of them. These should be ready backstage or positioned where the audience can’t see them.

The performer palms in either hand a second florin (No. 2), and advancing to his audience, borrows from one of them a florin, first marked by the owner. (This last we will call No. 3). He invites special attention to the fact that throughout the experiment he is about to perform, the coin is never removed from their sight, and he accordingly places it (really substituting, by one or other of the changes, florin No. 2) in full view on his table. He then goes out to fetch an171 orange, and takes the opportunity of slipping the marked florin (No. 3) into the vacant one. He brings forward this orange publicly, and places it on his table at his right hand. (The other orange he has meanwhile placed in his secret pocket on the right side, ready for palming at a moment’s notice.) He then says, “I think, by the way, it would be as well to have two oranges. Can any gentleman oblige me with one?” No one responding, he looks about him, and presently stepping up to one of his audience, pretends to take from his hair, hat, or handkerchief this second orange (which contains, it will be remembered, florin No. 1), and places it on the left hand side of the table. He now (standing behind his table) asks into which orange, the right or the left, he shall pass the florin. As the right of the audience is his left, he is at liberty to interpret the answer in whichever way he thinks proper, and he does so in such manner as to designate the orange containing the non-marked florin, No. 1. Thus, if the audience say “the left,” he answers, “On my left? Very good!” If they choose “the right,” he says, “On your right? Very good!” Not one person in a thousand will detect the equivoque.

The performer holds a second florin (No. 2) in each hand and walks up to his audience, borrowing a florin from one of them, which he asks to be marked by the owner. (We’ll refer to this one as No. 3). He emphasizes that throughout the experiment he’s about to perform, this coin will never leave their sight, and he places it (actually swapping it with one of the changes for florin No. 2) clearly on his table. He then steps out to get an171 orange and takes the chance to slip the marked florin (No. 3) into the empty spot. He brings forth this orange for everyone to see and puts it on his table at his right side. (Meanwhile, he has placed the other orange in his hidden pocket on the right, ready to palm at a moment’s notice.) He then says, “I think it would be good to have two oranges. Can anyone help me out with one?” When no one responds, he looks around and eventually approaches someone from the audience, pretending to pull a second orange (which, remember, holds florin No. 1) from his hair, hat, or handkerchief and places it on the left side of the table. Standing behind his table, he asks which orange, the right or the left, he should put the florin into. Since the audience's right is his left, he can interpret their answer as he sees fit and does so in a way that points to the orange with the unmarked florin, No. 1. So, if the audience says “the left,” he responds, “On my left? Very good!” If they say “the right,” he says, “On your right? Very good!” Not one person in a thousand will catch the trick.

Taking up florin No. 2 from the table, and holding it in his left hand, he pretends by the tourniquet to take it in his right, and thence to pass it into the orange, meanwhile dropping it from his left hand on to the servante, or into the profonde. Showing his hands empty, he cuts open the orange, and exhibits the florin (No. 1) therein contained. Before giving the audience time to examine it for the mark, he hears, or pretends to hear, a murmur among them to the effect that that was not the orange chosen. “Pardon me,” he says, “some of you seem to think that I had a special reason for preferring this particular orange. I gave you absolute liberty to choose which you liked, and I understood you to say that you chose this one. However, in order to satisfy everyone, I will repeat the trick with the other orange.” Taking up the second orange, he thrusts the knife through it, in the slit already made, and gives the knife thus loaded to some one to hold. Then, standing at some distance from it, he takes up florin No. 1, and, getting rid of it by one or other of the “passes” previously described, he makes a motion as of throwing it towards the orange. He now requests the person holding the orange himself172 to cut it open; when the genuine florin, No. 3, is found therein, and duly identified.

Taking florin No. 2 from the table and holding it in his left hand, he pretends to take it in his right hand using the tourniquet, and then passes it to the orange, while dropping it from his left hand onto the servante or into the profonde. After showing his hands are empty, he cuts open the orange and reveals the florin (No. 1) inside. Before giving the audience a chance to check for the mark, he hears—or pretends to hear—a murmur among them suggesting that this wasn’t the chosen orange. “Excuse me,” he says, “some of you seem to think I had a specific reason for picking this orange. I gave you the freedom to choose whichever one you wanted, and I understood that you said you chose this one. However, to ensure everyone is satisfied, I’ll do the trick with the other orange.” He picks up the second orange, cuts it through the pre-existing slit, and gives the knife—loaded as it is—to someone to hold. Then, standing a distance away, he takes florin No. 1, disposes of it using one of the previously shown “passes,” and makes a gesture as if throwing it toward the orange. Now he asks the person holding the orange to cut it open; when they do, the real florin, No. 3, is found inside and properly identified.

The finding of the second orange in the possession of the company may, if preferred, be omitted, and both oranges be brought forward openly in the first instance.

The discovery of the second orange held by the company can be skipped, if desired, and both oranges can be presented openly at the start.

Occasionally a refractory spectator may insist upon the wrong orange (i.e., that containing the genuine coin) being cut open first. As you have offered the audience the choice, you cannot well resist this; but it makes very little difference. In accordance with the general desire, you cut open the orange, and show the coin (No. 3), drawing particular attention to the mark. Its identity being fully established, you offer, for the general satisfaction, to pass the same coin into the second orange. Being satisfied that it was the genuine coin in the first case, the audience will the more readily believe that it is so in the second; but in this case you should cut open the second orange yourself, as it will be necessary to again substitute the genuine florin before you hand the coin to be examined.

Sometimes a stubborn spectator might insist on opening the wrong orange (i.e., the one with the genuine coin) first. Since you've given the audience a choice, you can't really refuse; but it doesn't make much difference. Following the audience's wishes, you cut open the orange and reveal the coin (No. 3), noting the mark specifically. With its identity confirmed, you offer to transfer the same coin into the second orange for everyone's satisfaction. Because the audience is already convinced it was the genuine coin the first time, they will be more inclined to believe it is again in the second. However, you should cut open the second orange yourself this time, as you need to switch the genuine florin back in before handing the coin over for inspection.

The Flying Money.—To make a Coin pass invisibly from the one hand to the other, and finally through the Table.—Have ready beforehand a florin or half-crown, with a little wax on one side of it, and take an opportunity of secretly sticking it, by means of the wax, against the under side of the table (any ordinary table) with which you intend to perform the trick. Have also a similar coin of your own palmed in your right hand. Borrow a marked florin from one of the company, and lay it carelessly upon the table, but in so doing exchange it for the one previously palmed. You now have the substitute on the table, and the marked coin palmed in its place. Turn up your sleeves, to show that they have nothing to do with the trick, and make a few introductory remarks about the extraordinary power of the mesmeric influence as applied to metallic substances; then, taking up the coin from the table between the fingers and thumb of the left hand, which you hold with the palm towards the company, so as to show incidentally that it is otherwise empty, continue to the following effect:—“Here, ladies and gentlemen, is an ordinary coin, a mere inert piece of silver. If173 you take it in your hand, there it will remain till you lay it down. But let a person possessing the mesmeric gift only breathe upon it” (you suit the action to the word), “and it is at once endowed with hearing, sense, and motion, and will fly from hand to hand at the mere word of command, and that so rapidly, that its flight is absolutely invisible. See, I take it so” (taking it in the right hand). “One, two, three! Pass! and it flies back into my left hand again. In order to show that there has been no substitution, perhaps the owner will kindly verify the mark.” The coin is examined, and found to be the same.

The Flying Money.—To make a coin vanish from one hand and reappear in the other, eventually passing through the table.—First, get a florin or a half-crown ready, with a bit of wax on one side. Find a moment to secretly stick it under the table (any regular table) where you're going to do the trick. Also, have a similar coin palmed in your right hand. Borrow a marked florin from one of the audience members and casually place it on the table, swapping it for the one you have palmed. Now you have the substitute coin on the table and the marked coin hidden in your hand. Roll up your sleeves to show they’re empty, and start with some remarks about the amazing power of mesmerism on metal objects; then, pick up the coin from the table with your left hand, holding it palm-up towards the audience to show that your hand is otherwise empty, and continue: “Here, ladies and gentlemen, is a regular coin, just a simple piece of silver. If you hold it in your hand, it stays there until you put it down. But if someone with the mesmeric gift breathes on it” (you do this as you speak), “it gains hearing, sense, and motion, and can fly from hand to hand at the slightest command, moving so fast it’s completely invisible. See, I take it like this” (taking it in your right hand). “One, two, three! Pass! And it flies back into my left hand. To prove there’s been no switch, perhaps the owner can check the mark.” The coin is inspected and confirmed to be the same.

This illusion is produced as follows:—When you breathe upon the substitute coin, you naturally turn the left hand palm upwards. In the act of taking that coin in the right hand, which you do with the hands in the position depicted in Fig. 69, you drop the genuine coin, which was previously palmed in the right hand, into the left, the position of the hand concealing it from the audience. After a momentary pause, you close the left hand, and hold it extended about level with your eyes. At each of the words, “One, two, three,” you make a slight motion of the right hand towards it, and at the word “Pass,” palm the coin by means of Pass 1, at the same time making a half turn of your body to the left, opening the left hand, and pointing with the index finger of the right hand to the coin lying therein. While it is being examined for the mark, you drop the substitute, which remains palmed in your right hand, into the pochette on that side, and bring up your hand empty.

This illusion works like this: When you breathe on the fake coin, you naturally turn your left hand palm up. As you take that coin with your right hand, which is in the position shown in Fig. 69, you drop the real coin, which you were holding in your right hand, into your left hand, keeping it hidden from the audience. After a brief pause, you close your left hand and hold it out at eye level. With each of the words "One, two, three," you make a slight motion with your right hand toward it, and at the word "Pass," you palm the coin using Pass 1 while turning your body slightly to the left, opening your left hand, and pointing with your right index finger at the coin inside. While it's being checked for a mark, you covertly drop the fake coin, which stays hidden in your right hand, into the pochette on that side and raise your hand empty.

Having proceeded thus far, borrow a second florin, but without in this case suggesting that it should be marked, breathe upon it, and lay it with that first used upon the table. Now with your right hand take up one of the coins, and by Pass 1 pretend to transfer it to the left, really retaining it in the palm of the right hand. Then take up the second coin between the fingers and thumb of the right hand, and announce that you are about to make the coins, which you now hold in each hand, come together. Holding your arms well apart, you make a motion with the left hand as if throwing something towards the right, at the same moment saying as before, “One, two, three! Pass!” and making the two coins in the right hand come together with an audible chink. You then open the hand, and show that the174 left is empty, and that both of the coins are together in the right hand.

Having gotten this far, borrow a second florin, but don’t mention marking it this time. Breathe on it and place it on the table next to the first one. Now, with your right hand, pick up one of the coins and, using Pass 1, pretend to move it to the left hand while actually keeping it in the palm of your right hand. Next, take the second coin between your fingers and thumb of the right hand, and announce that you’re about to make the coins you’re holding in each hand come together. With your arms held apart, make a throwing motion with your left hand as if tossing something to the right, while saying, “One, two, three! Pass!” and make the two coins in your right hand come together with a noticeable clink. Then, open your hand to show that the left one is empty and both coins are together in your right hand.

You continue, “You all think you know how that was done, I dare say. You imagine, no doubt, that the money was merely thrown from one hand to the other with extreme rapidity. ‘The quickness of the hand deceives the eye,’ as Shakspeare (or somebody else) says. I will therefore show you the same experiment in another form in which you will find that no such solution is admissible. I will pass the money right through this table, which is, as you see, pretty solid. The quickness of the hand would not be of much use in this case. I take one of the coins in the left hand, as before.”

You keep going, “You all think you know how that was done, I bet. You probably believe that the money was just tossed from one hand to the other really quickly. ‘The quickness of the hand deceives the eye,’ as Shakespeare (or someone else) says. So, I’ll show you the same trick in another way where that explanation doesn’t work. I’m going to make the money pass right through this table, which, as you can see, is pretty solid. The speed of the hand wouldn’t help much here. I’ll take one of the coins in my left hand, just like before.”

Here, however, you introduce a feint. Taking up the coin in the right hand, you transfer it to the left, but purposely do it with a pretended awkwardness, and hold the right hand afterwards rather stiffly, so as to lead the spectators to believe that you have really retained the coin in the right hand. To do this cleverly will require considerable practice, but it will by no means be labour lost, as feints of this kind are of frequent use.

Here, however, you create a distraction. Pick up the coin with your right hand and transfer it to your left, but do it with an exaggerated clumsiness on purpose. Then, keep your right hand stiff afterwards to make the audience think you actually still have the coin in your right hand. Mastering this technique will take a lot of practice, but it’s definitely worth it, as distractions like this are commonly used.

The spectators, delighted to have, as they imagine, caught you tripping, are sure to exclaim that the coin is still in your right hand. “Surely, ladies and gentlemen,” you say, with an injured air, “you don’t think that I would avail myself of such a transparent artifice. See for yourselves!” opening your hands. “I won’t ask you to apologize, but pray give me a little more credit for the future. Come; we will have no mistake about it this time.” Take the florin between the finger and thumb of the left hand, and, by means of the tourniquet or pincette, appear to transfer it to the right. Pick up the second coin with the left hand, and place that hand under the table, holding the closed right hand above it. Say “Pass!”, open the right hand, show it empty, and at the same moment chink the two florins together in the left hand, and bring them up for inspection.

The audience, thrilled to think they've caught you slipping up, are sure to shout that the coin is still in your right hand. “Surely, ladies and gentlemen,” you say, feigning surprise, “you don’t really believe I would use such a transparent trick. Look for yourselves!” as you open your hands. “I won’t ask you to apologize, but please give me a bit more trust going forward. Come on; let’s not make any mistakes this time.” Take the coin between your thumb and finger of your left hand, and with the tourniquet or pincette, pretend to move it to the right. Grab the second coin with your left hand and place that hand under the table, keeping your closed right hand above it. Say “Pass!”, open your right hand, show it empty, and at the same moment, clink the two coins together in your left hand and bring them up for everyone to see.

Looking around you, you continue, “I am afraid you are only half convinced; some of you look incredulous still. Come, we will try the experiment once more, and we will see whether you can find me out this time. As before, I take one coin in each hand.” This time you actually do so. You again pass your left hand under the table, detaching in its passage the third florin, which you had previously175 stuck to the under side of the table, but taking care that the two do not prematurely jingle together. Then, holding the other florin with the fingers of the right hand, which should be held palm downwards about a foot above the table, make Pass 1 with that hand, thus bringing the coin into its palm, and at the same time chink the other two coins in the left hand, and bring them up for examination. One of them, in this instance, is a substitute, and therefore, in the unlikely event of the audience insisting that the trick should be performed with marked coins, this last act must be omitted.

Looking around, you continue, “I’m afraid some of you are still not fully convinced; some of you look skeptical. Come on, let’s try the experiment again and see if you can figure it out this time. As before, I’ll take one coin in each hand.” This time, you really do it. You pass your left hand under the table, secretly removing the third florin that you had stuck to the underside of the table, making sure not to let the two coins rattle together too soon. Then, holding the other florin with your right hand, which should be palm down about a foot above the table, you make Pass 1 with that hand, bringing the coin into your palm while at the same time jingling the other two coins in your left hand and lifting them up for the audience to see. One of those coins is a substitute, so if the audience insists on having the trick done with marked coins, you’ll need to skip this last step.

With a regular conjuring-table, the trick might be made even more surprising, from the facilities which the servante would afford for getting rid of and regaining the coin. But even if you habitually use such a table, it is better not to avail yourself of it for this purpose. The trick is, in any shape, too minute for stage performance, and in a drawing-room it is apt to draw special attention to the table, which in the case of a trick-table is a little embarrassing.

With a standard conjuring table, the trick could become even more impressive, thanks to the advantages that the servante provides for disposing of and retrieving the coin. However, even if you regularly use such a table, it's best not to rely on it for this purpose. The trick, in any form, is too subtle for stage performance, and in a drawing-room setting, it tends to focus attention on the table, which can be a bit awkward when using a trick table.

To rub One Sixpence into Three.—This is a simple little parlour trick, but will sometimes occasion great wonderment. Procure three sixpences of the same issue and privately stick two of them (as directed for the florin in the last trick) with wax to the under side of a table, at about half an inch from the edge, and eight or ten inches apart. Announce to the company that you are about to teach them how to make money. Turn up your sleeves, and take the third sixpence in your right hand, drawing particular attention to its date and general appearance, and indirectly to the fact that you have no other coin concealed in your hands. Turning back the table-cover, rub the sixpence with the ball of the thumb backwards and forwards on the edge of the table. In this position your fingers will naturally be below the edge. After rubbing for a few seconds, say, “It is nearly done, for the sixpence is getting hot;” and, after rubbing a moment or two longer with increased rapidity, draw the hand away sharply, carrying away with it one of the concealed sixpences, which you exhibit as produced by the friction. Pocketing the waxed sixpence, and again showing that you have but one coin in your hands, repeat the operation with the remaining sixpence.

To turn one sixpence into three.—This is a simple little parlor trick, but it can draw a lot of astonishment. Get three sixpences of the same type and secretly stick two of them (as instructed for the florin in the last trick) using wax to the underside of a table, about half an inch from the edge, and eight or ten inches apart. Tell the audience that you’re going to show them how to make money. Roll up your sleeves, and take the third sixpence in your right hand, pointing out its date and appearance, while hinting that you have no other coins hidden in your hands. Lifting the tablecloth, rub the sixpence with the ball of your thumb back and forth on the edge of the table. Your fingers will naturally be under the edge. After rubbing for a few seconds, say, “It’s almost done, the sixpence is getting hot;” and after rubbing a little longer and faster, quickly pull your hand away, taking with it one of the hidden sixpences, which you show as produced by the friction. Put the waxed sixpence in your pocket and once again show that you have just one coin in your hands, then repeat the trick with the last sixpence.

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The Multiplication of Money.—This is an old and favourite trick. It may be performed with shillings, pence, or florins, as may best suit your convenience. Whichever you use (we will suppose florins), you prepare for the trick by secretly palming in the right hand such number (say three) as you intend to magically add. Advancing to the audience, you beg the loan of ten or a dozen florins (the precise number is immaterial), at the same time requesting some one of the company to collect them, and bring them to you. He collects, we will suppose, twelve. You request him to count them openly upon the table, that all may be able to verify their number. This being done, you invite a second person also to step forward and assist. Picking up from the table the same number of coins as you have concealed in your palm, you give them to one of the two persons (whom we will call A) to hold. Then, taking up the remaining coins, you request the second person (whom we will call B) to take charge of them. When he holds out his hand to receive them, you let fall with them the palmed coins, so that he really receives twelve, though he believes that he has only nine. You make him close his hand, and hold it high above his head. You then ask A for the coins you entrusted to him. On his returning them to you, you take them between the second finger and thumb of the left hand, and pretend by the tourniquet to transfer them to the right, really getting rid of them at the earliest opportunity on the servante, or into one of your pochettes. The audience believe that the three coins are in your closed right hand. You announce that you are about to pass them invisibly into the hand of B, and after the necessary amount of magical gesture, you open your hand, and show that they have vanished; and B, on examining his stock, finds that the supposed nine have increased to twelve.

The Growth of Wealth.—This is a classic favorite trick. You can perform it with shillings, pence, or florins, depending on what works best for you. Let’s say you choose florins. To set up the trick, secretly palm three coins in your right hand. Step forward to the audience and ask to borrow ten or twelve florins (the exact number doesn’t matter). At the same time, ask someone in the group to gather them and bring them to you. Let’s assume they collect twelve. Ask them to count the coins out loud on the table, so everyone can see the total. Once that’s done, invite a second person to help out. Pick up the same number of coins you have hidden in your palm and give them to one of the two people (let’s call them A) to hold. Next, take the remaining coins and hand them to the second person (let’s call them B). When they reach out their hand to receive the coins, let the coins you’ve palmed drop into their hand too, so they actually get twelve coins, even though they think they only have nine. Ask B to close their hand and hold it above their head. Then, ask A for the coins you gave them. When they return them to you, take them between the second finger and thumb of your left hand and pretend to transfer them to your right hand using a move called the tourniquet, while actually getting rid of them quickly onto the servante or into one of your pochettes. The audience will think the three coins are in your closed right hand. You announce you’re going to pass them invisibly into B’s hand, and after a magical gesture, you open your hand to show that they have disappeared. When B checks their pile, they find that the supposed nine coins have magically turned into twelve.

It is a very good plan, in performing this trick, for the performer himself to collect the coins from the company in a plate, the coins to be added being held in the same hand which carries the plate, when, the thumb being naturally above and the fingers below, the coins are effectually concealed. After the coins have been counted, the performer, taking the plate in the other hand, pours them from it into the hand which already holds the concealed coins, thus bringing them together easily and naturally.

It’s a great idea for the performer to gather the coins from the audience into a plate while holding the additional coins in the same hand as the plate. This way, with the thumb on top and the fingers below, the coins can be effectively hidden. Once the coins are counted, the performer can switch the plate to the other hand and pour the coins from it into the hand that’s already holding the hidden coins, making the process seamless and natural.

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Fig. 80.

A further improvement may be made in the trick by using, in place of an ordinary plate, a special plate or salver, generally made of tin japanned, but sometimes of crockery or china. The speciality of this plate (which is known as the “money plate,” or “multiplying salver”) consists in a flat space running along its bottom, between its upper and under surface, just wide enough and deep enough to hold concealed a row of coins (florins or shillings, as the case may be), and closed at the one end, but open at the other, the opening being concealed by the edge of the plate. (See Fig. 80.) You prepare the plate beforehand by placing in the concealed space three, four, or six coins, and place it on your table. When you first take it up, you take hold of it near the opening, when you may, of course, handle it as freely as you please, as, the mouth of the passage being upwards, the coins cannot possibly fall out. Letting the plate hang downwards in a perpendicular position, and passing it carelessly from hand to hand, the audience cannot help observing that you have nothing concealed in your hands. Then collect (or count out, if already collected) the money in the plate, and, after taking away and handing to A a number equal to the coins concealed, pour the remainder direct from the plate into the hands of B, first, however, so reversing the position of the plate (which you may do by merely transferring it from the one hand to the other) as to turn the opening of the passage away from you. When you now slope the plate to pour the remaining coins into his hands, the money in the concealed passage will naturally pour out with them (see Fig. 80), thus making the required addition with hardly a possibility of detection.

A further improvement can be made to the trick by using a special plate or tray instead of a regular one. This plate, often made of tin with a shiny finish, but sometimes of ceramics or fine china, has a unique feature. It's known as the “money plate” or “multiplying tray” and has a flat space along the bottom between the upper and lower surfaces, just wide and deep enough to hide a row of coins (florins or shillings, depending on the situation). It is closed at one end and open at the other, with the opening hidden by the edge of the plate. (See Fig. 80.) You prepare the plate ahead of time by placing three, four, or six coins in the concealed space, then set it on your table. When you first pick it up, grab it near the opening, allowing you to handle it as freely as you want, since the opening is upwards, and the coins can’t possibly fall out. Holding the plate downwards in a vertical position and casually passing it from one hand to the other, the audience will clearly see that you have nothing hidden in your hands. Then, gather (or count out, if already gathered) the money on the plate, and after taking away and handing A an amount equal to the concealed coins, pour the rest directly from the plate into B's hands. First, though, turn the plate around (you can do this by simply switching it from one hand to the other) so that the opening is facing away from you. When you tilt the plate to pour the remaining coins into his hands, the coins in the hidden space will naturally fall out with them (see Fig. 80), effectively achieving the desired result with minimal chance of detection.

178 It is a good plan to perform the trick first without, and then to repeat it with, the aid of the money plate, making a great point in the second instance of the fact that you do not even touch the money, and accounting for the use of the plate as designed to preclude all possibility of the use of sleight-of-hand, or any other mechanical mode of deception. The spectators, having already seen you perform the trick without the aid of the plate, are precluded from supposing that this latter has any special connection with the secret; and seeing clearly that you have in this instance no coins concealed in your hands, naturally conclude that the same was the case on the former occasion. Thus the repetition of the trick, instead of assisting them to a solution, rather increases the mystery.

178 It's a smart idea to do the trick first without the money plate, and then do it again with the plate, emphasizing in the second performance that you don't even touch the money. Explain that the plate is used to eliminate any chance of sleight-of-hand or other tricks. Since the audience has already seen you perform the trick without the plate, they won't think it has any special connection to the secret. And because they can clearly see that you have no coins hidden in your hands this time, they naturally assume that was also true during the first performance. Therefore, repeating the trick doesn’t help them figure it out; it actually adds to the mystery.

The trick may be varied at pleasure so far as regards the manner of the disappearance of the coins which are supposed to be passed invisibly into the hands of the person holding the larger number. One mode is to ask one of the company to wrap them up in a piece of stiff paper, for which you forthwith secretly substitute a piece of similar paper, in which a like number of coins have been wrapped, but have been removed, the paper, however, retaining the form of the coins. Taking this in the left hand, you pretend to take from it, invisibly, with the finger and thumb of the right hand, each coin in succession, and to pass it in the same manner into the hand of the person holding the remaining coins, finally tearing the paper in half to show that they have really passed away from it. Or you may, if you prefer it, place the coins in question on the “vanishing plate,” to be hereafter described, whence they mysteriously disappear as you take them off one by one. This is a very effective mode. Or you may place them in the “plug-box,” the “Davenport cabinet,” or any other of the various appliances after-mentioned for vanishing money.

The trick can be adjusted however you like regarding how the coins seem to disappear and are supposedly passed invisibly into the hands of the person holding the larger number. One way to do this is to ask someone in the group to wrap the coins in a piece of stiff paper, which you then secretly replace with a similar piece of paper that has the same number of coins wrapped in it but has had the coins removed, with the paper still shaped like the coins. Holding this in your left hand, you pretend to take each coin one by one, invisibly, with the fingers of your right hand and pass it into the hand of the person holding the remaining coins, ultimately tearing the paper in half to show that the coins have actually vanished from it. Alternatively, if you prefer, you can place the coins on the “vanishing plate,” which will be described later, where they mysteriously disappear as you take them off one by one. This is a very effective method. You can also place them in the “plug-box,” the “Davenport cabinet,” or any of the other various methods mentioned for making money disappear.

To make a Marked Sixpence vanish from a Handkerchief, and be found in the Centre of an Apple or Orange previously examined.—Have ready, concealed in either hand, a sixpence of your own, with a little wax smeared on one side of it. Roll another minute portion of wax into a round ball half the size of a peppercorn, and press it lightly upon the lowest button of your waistcoat,179 so that you may be able to find it instantly when wanted. You must also have at hand an ordinary full-sized table-knife and a plate of oranges.

To make a marked sixpence vanish from a handkerchief and then have it reappear in the middle of an apple or orange that was examined beforehand.—Have a sixpence of your own ready, concealed in either hand, with a bit of wax smeared on one side. Roll a small piece of wax into a round ball about half the size of a peppercorn and press it lightly onto the lowest button of your waistcoat,179 so you can find it easily when needed. You should also have a regular full-sized table knife and a plate of oranges at hand.

Fig. 81.

You begin by borrowing a sixpence (requesting the owner to mark it) and a handkerchief. You spread the handkerchief flat on the table, with its sides square with those of the table. Then standing behind your table, you place ostensibly the borrowed sixpence, but really your own (with the waxed side up), in the centre of the handkerchief, then fold over the corners, one by one, beginning with one of those nearest to yourself, in such manner that each shall overlap the sixpence by about an inch, gently pressing each corner as you fold it down. Ask some one to come forward, and ascertain by feeling the handkerchief, that the sixpence is really there. Then offer the knife for inspection, and after all are satisfied that it is without preparation, hand the plate of oranges to be examined in like manner, requesting the audience to choose one for the purpose of the trick. While they do so, your fingers go in search of the little ball of wax, and press it against one side of the marked sixpence, which still remains in your hand. Press the sixpence against one side of the blade of the knife, at about the middle of its length, and lay the knife on the table, the sixpence adhering to its under side. Then taking hold of the handkerchief, as represented in Fig. 81, and blowing on its centre, draw the hands quickly apart. The two corners of the side next to you will thus be brought one into each hand, and adhering to one of them (the one which you first folded down), will be the substitute sixpence, which will thus appear to have vanished. Hand the handkerchief for examination, that it180 may be seen that the coin has really disappeared, and meanwhile get rid of the substitute into your pocket or elsewhere. Turn up your sleeves, and show that your hands are empty. Then take up the knife (taking care to keep the side on which the sixpence is away from the spectators), and cut open the orange. Cut about half way down with the point, and then finish the cut by drawing the whole length of the blade through the opening thus made. This will detach the sixpence, which will fall between the two halves of the orange, as though it had all along been contained therein. Wipe it with the handkerchief to remove the juice of the orange from it, and at the same time rub off any wax which may still adhere to it, and hand it for identification.

You start by borrowing a sixpence (ask the owner to mark it) and a handkerchief. You lay the handkerchief flat on the table, aligning its edges with the edges of the table. Then, standing behind the table, you place what looks like the borrowed sixpence, but is actually your own (with the waxed side facing up), in the center of the handkerchief. Next, you fold the corners over one by one, starting with the corner closest to you, making sure each corner overlaps the sixpence by about an inch, gently pressing each corner down as you fold it. Ask someone to come up and check by feeling the handkerchief to confirm that the sixpence is really there. Then show the knife for inspection, and once everyone is satisfied that it’s unprepared, hand over the plate of oranges for them to examine, asking the audience to pick one for the trick. While they do this, you secretly search for the small ball of wax and press it against one side of the marked sixpence, which you still have in your hand. Press the sixpence against the middle of the knife blade underneath and lay the knife on the table with the sixpence stuck to its underside. Then, grab the handkerchief, as shown in Fig. 81, and blow on its center while quickly pulling your hands apart. The two corners closest to you will end up in each hand, and sticking to one of them (the first one you folded down) will be the substitute sixpence, making it look like it has vanished. Hand the handkerchief to the audience for examination so they can see that the coin has really disappeared, and while they do this, discreetly dispose of the substitute into your pocket or elsewhere. Roll up your sleeves and show your hands are empty. Then pick up the knife (making sure the side with the sixpence is facing away from the audience) and cut open the orange. Cut about halfway down with the point, then finish the cut by slicing the entire length of the blade through the opening you created. This will drop the sixpence between the two halves of the orange, as if it was inside the whole time. Wipe it with the handkerchief to remove any orange juice and rub off any wax that might still be on it, then hand it over for identification.

The coin may, if preferred, be found in an egg instead of the orange, the audience being invited to choose which shall be used. This trick is sometimes performed by the aid of a knife made for this special purpose, with a small spring lever, after the manner of a flute key, soldered against one side of the blade. The coin is held in position by the short arm of the lever, which answers the same purpose as the wax in the form of the trick above described. The disadvantage of using this, which is known as the “fruit knife,” is, that you cannot hand the knife for examination, and this, to our mind, spoils the trick.

The coin can, if preferred, be found in an egg instead of the orange, with the audience invited to choose which one will be used. This trick is sometimes done with a knife specifically designed for this purpose, featuring a small spring lever, similar to a flute key, soldered to one side of the blade. The coin is held in place by the short arm of the lever, serving the same function as the wax mentioned in the trick described above. The downside of using this, known as the “fruit knife,” is that you cannot hand the knife over for examination, which, in our opinion, ruins the trick.

The Travelling Counters.—This is a very similar trick to that already described under the title of the “Multiplication of Money.” It is performed with twelve metal counters. The performer begins by counting the twelve counters on the table; then, taking up four of them, he hands them to a spectator to hold, and taking the remainder in his own hand, commands them to change places. On examination, his commands are found to be obeyed. The spectator has eight, while the performer has only four. The spectator is now requested to take charge of the eight, when the operator commands the four which he himself holds to rejoin them. This, also, is found to be accomplished. The operator now hands the twelve to a second spectator, requesting him to hold them tightly. After a moment’s interval, he is requested again to count them, but finds that he has grasped them too tightly, for they are now welded181 together into a solid mass. The performer again takes them, and by merely breathing on them, restores them to their original state.

The Travel Counters.—This is a similar trick to the one described under the title of the “Multiplication of Money.” It’s done with twelve metal counters. The performer starts by counting the twelve counters on the table; then, he picks up four and hands them to a spectator to hold while keeping the rest in his hand, commanding them to switch places. Upon checking, it’s found that his command has been followed. The spectator has eight, while the performer has only four. The spectator is then asked to keep the eight, and the performer commands the four he’s holding to join the others. This, too, is accomplished. The performer now gives all twelve to a second spectator, asking him to hold them tightly. After a brief moment, he asks the spectator to count them again, only to find that he’s holding them too tightly, as they are now stuck together in a solid mass. The performer takes them back and, by simply breathing on them, restores them to their original state.

The student, with the experience which he has by this time gained, will naturally conjecture that the trick is in reality performed with sixteen loose counters, and twelve soldered together; that the performer commenced the trick with four counters palmed in his right hand, which he secretly added to the four which he handed to the spectator; that, taking up the remaining eight, and apparently transferring them from his right hand to his left, he really transferred four only, leaving the remainder in the right hand; and that when he again handed the eight counters to the spectator, he added these last to them. That in apparently transferring the remaining four from hand to hand he palmed them, forthwith dropping them into one of his pochettes, and taking from the same place, or from under his waistband, the solid twelve, which he finally handed to the second spectator in place of the twelve loose counters; again substituting the loose ones, as before, when by breathing on them he professed to restore them to their primitive state.

The student, with the experience he has gained by now, will naturally guess that the trick is actually done with sixteen loose chips and twelve stuck together. The performer started the trick with four chips hidden in his right hand, which he secretly added to the four he gave to the spectator. He then picked up the remaining eight, and while it seemed like he was moving them from his right hand to his left, he really only moved four, keeping the others in his right hand. When he handed the eight chips back to the spectator, he added those last ones to them. In what appeared to be a transfer of the remaining four from one hand to the other, he palmed them and quickly dropped them into one of his pochettes, then took the solid twelve from the same place or from under his waistband, which he finally handed to the second spectator instead of the twelve loose chips. Again, he swapped the loose ones when he pretended to restore them to their original state by blowing on them.

As the student has so successfully guessed all this, it would be an impertinence on our part to further explain the trick.

As the student has guessed all of this so well, it would be rude for us to explain the trick further.

The Wandering Sixpence.—Have ready two sixpences, each slightly waxed on one side. Borrow a sixpence, and secretly exchange it for one of the waxed ones, laying the latter, waxed side uppermost, on the table. Let any one draw two cards from any ordinary pack. Take them in the left hand, and, transferring them to the right, press the second waxed sixpence against the centre of the undermost, to which it will adhere. Lay this card (which we will call a) on the table, about eighteen inches from the sixpence which is already there, and cover that sixpence with the other card, b. Lift both cards a little way from the table, to show that the sixpence is under card a, and that there is apparently nothing under card b. As you replace them, press lightly on the centre of card a. You may now make the sixpence appear under whichever card you like, remembering that, if you wish the sixpence not to adhere, you must bend the card slightly upwards in taking it from the table; if otherwise, take it up without bending.

The Wandering Sixpence.—Get two sixpences, with one side slightly waxed on each. Borrow a sixpence and secretly swap it for one of the waxed ones, placing the waxed side facing up on the table. Let someone pick two cards from a regular deck. Hold them in your left hand, then move them to your right hand, pressing the second waxed sixpence against the center of the bottom card, which it will stick to. Place this card (we’ll call it a) on the table, about eighteen inches from the sixpence already there, and cover that sixpence with the other card, b. Lift both cards slightly off the table to show that the sixpence is under card a, and that there seems to be nothing under card b. When you put them back down, press lightly on the center of card a. You can now make the sixpence appear under whichever card you choose, keeping in mind that if you want the sixpence not to stick, you should bend the card slightly upwards when lifting it from the table; otherwise, just lift it without bending.


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CHAPTER VIII.
Coin tricks that need special equipment.

The “Heads and Tails” Trick.—This is a pretty little trick, of an unpretending nature, but of very good effect, especially if introduced in a casual and apparently extempore manner. The performer borrows, or produces from his own pocket, four penny-pieces. Placing them upon the table, he requests some one to make a pile of them, all one way, say “tail” upwards. He next requests the same or another person to turn over the pile so made, without disturbing the relative position of the coins, and announces with an air of supernatural knowledge that they will now all be found “head” upwards. This appears so ridiculously obvious, that the audience naturally observe (with more or less straightforwardness of expression) that “any fool could tell that.” “Pardon me,” says the performer, “it is not quite such a simple matter as you think. I very much doubt whether any of you could do as much. I will place the coins again; watch me as closely as you please. I will place them as before—Tail, tail, tail, tail. Is that fairly done? Now I will turn them over.” He does so, letting the tips of his fingers rest upon them. “What are they now?” A general chorus replies, “All heads, of course!” But on examination it is found that only three are “heads,” and one a “tail.” Again he arranges them, placing them this time alternately—head, tail, head, tail. He turns them over. The natural order (beginning from below) would again be head, tail, head, tail; but they are found to be head, tail, tail, tail. Again he places them, tail, tail, tail, head. When turned over they should be tail, head, head, head, but are found to be tail, head, alternately.

The “Heads or Tails” Trick.—This is a simple yet effective trick, especially when casually presented as if it's being done on the spot. The performer borrows or pulls out four coins from their pocket. They place the coins on the table and ask someone to stack them all facing the same way, say with “tails” up. Then, they ask the same or another person to flip the stack over without changing the order of the coins and confidently claim that now all the coins will show “heads.” This seems so obvious that the audience often remarks (with varying degrees of directness) that “anyone could figure that out.” “Excuse me,” replies the performer, “it’s not as simple as you think. I seriously doubt any of you could do it. Let me set the coins up again; feel free to watch me closely. I’ll place them just like before—Tail, tail, tail, tail. Is that clear? Now I’ll flip them over.” They do so, with their fingertips resting on the coins. “What do you see now?” A chorus replies, “All heads, of course!” But upon checking, it's revealed that only three are “heads” and one is a “tail.” They set them up again, this time alternating—head, tail, head, tail. When they flip them, the expected order (starting from the bottom) would be head, tail, head, tail; but instead, they find head, tail, tail, tail. They set them up once more, tail, tail, tail, head. When flipped, they should show tail, head, head, head, but are actually found to be tail, head, alternating.

The secret lies in the use of a prepared penny, consisting of similar halves (in the case above described two “tails”) soldered together, so183 as to be “tail” on either side. This the performer palms in his right hand. After first going through the operation with the genuine coins, as above, he picks them up with his left hand; and apparently transferring them to the right, really transfers three of them only. He then performs the trick with these and the prepared coin, when the apparently miraculous result above described becomes a matter of course.

The secret is in using a prepared penny, made of two identical halves (as described above, two “tails”) joined together, so183 that it shows a “tail” on both sides. The performer hides this in his right hand. After first demonstrating with the real coins, as described, he picks them up with his left hand; and while it looks like he’s transferring them to the right, he only actually transfers three of them. He then performs the trick with these and the prepared coin, making the seemingly miraculous outcome seem routine.

It is best not to repeat the trick too often, and a little practice is necessary in order to be able to return the three genuine coins neatly to the left hand (in which the fourth borrowed coin must be retained throughout the trick), at the same time secretly retaining your own. It is a frequent occurrence for one or other of the company, imagining that the seeming wonder is, in some unexplained way, a result of some natural principle, to request to be allowed to try for himself. It is obvious that, under such circumstances, it would not do to hand him the prepared coin, and hence the necessity for some quick and natural method of again getting the four genuine coins together.

It’s best not to repeat the trick too often, and a bit of practice is needed to smoothly return the three real coins to your left hand (where the fourth borrowed coin must be kept throughout the trick), while secretly keeping your own. It often happens that someone in the audience, thinking the trick might be due to some natural principle, will ask to try it themselves. Clearly, in such situations, it wouldn’t be wise to give them the prepared coin, which is why a quick and natural method for getting back all four genuine coins is necessary.

The trick may be brought to an effective conclusion as follows: After you have got rid of the double-faced penny, you may continue, “Perhaps it is a little too complicated for you with four coins; suppose we try it with one only, and I won’t even turn it over.” Placing one of the genuine pence on the middle of the right palm, which you hold out horizontally before you, you draw special attention to the fact that the coin is (say) “tail” upwards. Quickly covering it with the other hand, you say, “What is it now?” “Tail,” is the reply. “Wrong again!” you say, and, lifting up the hand, show that the coin has this time vanished altogether. This mysterious disappearance is effected as follows: When you apparently cover the coin with the left hand, you bring the hands together with a quick lateral motion as though sliding the one across the other. This shoots the coin from the palm down the opposite sleeve, the motion being so quick that the keenest eye cannot detect it. This little sleight is by no means difficult, and is well worthy of acquirement, as it may be introduced with equal effect in many tricks.

The trick can be wrapped up effectively like this: After you've gotten rid of the double-faced penny, you might say, “Maybe it's a bit too complicated for you with four coins; let’s try it with just one, and I won’t even flip it.” Place one of the genuine pennies in the center of your right palm, which you hold out flat in front of you, and draw attention to the fact that the coin is (for example) “tail” side up. Quickly cover it with your other hand and ask, “What is it now?” When they reply, “Tail,” you say, “Wrong again!” and lift your hand to show that the coin has completely vanished. This mysterious disappearance happens like this: When you seemingly cover the coin with your left hand, you quickly move your hands together in a sideways motion, as if sliding one over the other. This action sends the coin from your palm down your opposite sleeve, and it happens so fast that even the sharpest eye can't catch it. This little sleight isn't hard to master and is definitely worth learning, as it can be used effectively in many tricks.

The Magic Cover and Vanishing Halfpence.—This is a very old trick, but is still very popular with a juvenile audience.184 The principal apparatus consists of half-a-dozen halfpence, of which the centre portion has been cut out, leaving each a mere rim of metal. Upon these is placed a complete halfpenny, and the whole are connected together by a rivet running through the whole thickness of the pile. When placed upon the table, with the complete coin upwards, they have all the appearance of a pile of ordinary halfpence, the slight lateral play allowed by the rivet aiding the illusion. A little leather cap (shaped something like a fez, with a little button on the top, and of such a size as to fit loosely over the pile of halfpence), with an ordinary die, such as backgammon is played with, complete the necessary requirements.

The Magic Cover and Vanishing Halfpence.—This is a very old trick, but it’s still really popular with younger audiences.184 The main setup consists of about six halfpennies, with the middle part cut out, leaving just a rim of metal. On top of these sits a whole halfpenny, and everything is held together by a rivet that goes through the entire stack. When placed on the table with the complete coin facing up, they look just like a stack of regular halfpennies, and the slight movement allowed by the rivet adds to the illusion. A small leather cap (shaped somewhat like a fez, with a little button on top, and big enough to fit loosely over the stack of halfpennies), along with a regular die, like the kind used in backgammon, rounds out the necessary items.

You begin by drawing attention to your magic cap and die, late the property of the king of the fairies. In order to exhibit their mystic powers, you request the loan of half-a-dozen halfpence (the number must, of course, correspond with that of your own pile), and, while they are being collected, you take the opportunity to slip the little cap over your prepared pile, which should be placed ready to hand behind some small object on the table, so as to be unseen by the spectators. Pressing the side of the cap, you lift the pile with it, and place the whole together in full view, in close proximity to the die. The required halfpence having been now collected, you beg all to observe that you place the leather cap (which the spectators suppose to be empty) fairly over the die. Taking the genuine coins in either hand, you pretend, by one or other of the passes, to transfer them to the other. Holding the hand which is now supposed to contain the coins immediately above the cap, you announce that they will at your command pass under the cap, from which the die will disappear to make room for them. Saying, “One, two, three! Pass!” you open your hand, and show that the coins have vanished. If you use a regular table, you may place them on the servante, and show both hands empty; and then, lifting up the cap by the button, you show the hollow pile, covering the die, and appearing to be the genuine coins. Once more covering the pile with the cap, you announce that you will again extract the coins, and replace the die; and to make the trick still more extraordinary, you will this time pass the coins right through the table. Placing the hand which holds the genuine coins beneath the table, and once more saying, “One, two, three!185 Pass!” you chink the coins, and, bringing them up, place them on the table. Again picking up the cap, but this time pressing its sides, you lift up the hollow pile with it, and disclose the die. Quickly transfer the cap, without the pile, to the other hand, and place it on the table, to bear the brunt of examination, while you get rid of the prepared coins.

You start by showcasing your magic cap and die, which were previously owned by the fairy king. To demonstrate their magical abilities, you ask to borrow six halfpence (the number should match your own pile), and while they're being gathered, you take the chance to slip the little cap over your prepared pile, which should be placed discreetly behind a small object on the table, out of sight of the audience. By pressing the side of the cap, you lift the pile with it and place it all in view, close to the die. Once the required halfpence have been gathered, you ask everyone to see that you’re placing the leather cap (which the audience thinks is empty) directly over the die. Taking the real coins in either hand, you pretend to transfer them from one hand to the other with a flourish. Holding the hand that's supposed to have the coins right above the cap, you declare that they will, at your command, pass under the cap, where the die will vanish to make room for them. Saying, “One, two, three! Pass!” you open your hand to show that the coins have disappeared. If you're using a regular table, you can place the coins on the servante and show both hands empty; then, lifting the cap by the button, you reveal the hollow pile over the die, which looks like the real coins. After covering the pile with the cap again, you announce that you'll extract the coins once more and return the die; to make the trick even more amazing, this time you'll pass the coins right through the table. Holding the hand with the real coins beneath the table, and saying, “One, two, three!185 Pass!” you jingle the coins and bring them up to place on the table. Again, picking up the cap and pressing its sides, you lift the hollow pile with it and reveal the die. Quickly switch the cap, without the pile, to the other hand and set it on the table to withstand scrutiny while you dispose of the prepared coins.

The trick may be varied in many ways, according to the ingenuity of the performer, but it belongs at best to the “juvenile” school of conjuring, and we have not thought it worth while to waste space in elaborating it.

The trick can be adapted in various ways, depending on the creativity of the performer, but it primarily fits into the “juvenile” category of magic, and we didn’t think it was worth the space to go into detail about it.

The Animated Coin, which answers Questions, etc.—This trick is performed in a variety of different ways, some with apparatus, some without. The effect produced is as follows:—The performer borrows a coin, and, after making a few mesmeric passes over it, drops it into a glass upon the table, where it immediately begins to jump about as if alive. The performer then announces that the coin thus mesmerized has the power of fortune-telling, naming chosen cards, predicting the number that will be thrown by a pair of dice, etc. The coin answers “Yes” by jumping three times, “No” by jumping once—according to the approved spiritualistic code of signals. We shall not stay to discuss the questions asked, which are of the same class as those which are generally put to the Magic Bell or Drum, but proceed at once to explain the various modes of producing the movement of the coin.

The Animated Coin that answers questions, etc.—This trick can be done in different ways, some using props and others without. The effect is as follows:—The performer borrows a coin and, after making a few mesmerizing movements over it, drops it into a glass on the table, where it starts jumping around as if it’s alive. The performer then claims that the mesmerized coin can tell fortunes, name chosen cards, predict the outcome of a pair of dice, and so on. The coin answers “Yes” by jumping three times and “No” by jumping once—following the standard signals used in spiritualism. We won’t focus on the specific questions asked, which are similar to those usually posed to the Magic Bell or Drum, but will directly explain the different methods used to make the coin move.

One plan is for the performer to have a coin of his own, to which is attached a long black silk thread, the other end of which is in the hand of an assistant behind the scenes, or elsewhere out of sight of the audience. This coin is placed on the table in readiness, but concealed from the spectators by some larger object in front of it. When the performer advances to the table with the borrowed coin, he secretly picks up the prepared one, and drops the latter into the glass as being that which he has borrowed. A short, quick jerk of the thread by the assistant will make the coin spring up and fall back again, producing the required chink. It is only necessary to be careful not to jerk the thread so violently as to make the coin fly out of the glass. It is desirable, where practicable, to make the thread pass186 either through a hole in the top of the table, or a ring fixed to its surface and placed immediately behind the glass. This will keep that portion of the thread nearest to the glass perpendicular behind it, in which position it will be completely hidden by the glass, and so be invisible.

One plan is for the performer to have a coin of his own, attached to a long black silk thread. The other end of the thread is held by an assistant offstage or out of sight from the audience. This coin is placed on the table, ready but hidden from the spectators by a larger object in front of it. When the performer approaches the table with the borrowed coin, he discreetly picks up the prepared one and drops it into the glass as if it were the one he borrowed. A quick, slight tug on the thread by the assistant will make the coin spring up and fall back, creating the desired sound. It's important to avoid pulling the thread too hard, as that could make the coin pop out of the glass. If possible, it’s best to make the thread go through a hole in the top of the table or a ring fixed to its surface, positioned right behind the glass. This will keep the part of the thread closest to the glass in a vertical position behind it, where it will be completely hidden by the glass, making it invisible.

Some performers prefer to use the actual coin borrowed. The arrangements in this case are the same as above described, save that the silk thread, instead of having a substitute coin attached to it, has merely a pellet of wax at its end. The performer having handed round the glass for inspection, and standing in front of the table with his left side turned towards the audience, picks up a pellet of wax with his right hand at the same moment that, holding the borrowed coin in his left hand, he begs the spectators to take especial notice that he really uses the borrowed coin, and no other. Having said this, he transfers the coin, by a perfectly natural movement, to his right hand, and pressing against it the waxen pellet, drops it into the glass.

Some performers prefer to use the actual coin they borrowed. The setup in this case is the same as previously described, except that the silk thread has a pellet of wax at its end instead of a substitute coin. The performer first hands the glass around for inspection and stands in front of the table with his left side facing the audience. He picks up a pellet of wax with his right hand while, at the same time, holding the borrowed coin in his left hand. He asks the spectators to pay special attention to the fact that he is indeed using the borrowed coin and nothing else. After making this statement, he naturally moves the coin to his right hand, presses it against the wax pellet, and drops it into the glass.

Fig. 82.

The third and last mode of performing the trick is by means of a special glass, with a hole drilled through its foot. This is placed on a suitable pedestal (see Fig. 82), in which works up and down a steel needle, forming the upper portion of a kind of loose piston, a. The top of the pedestal is covered with green baize, allowing free passage to the needle, which when pushed upward strikes the coin from below, with much the same effect as the thread pulling it from above. This pedestal is only available with one of the mechanical tables which will be described in connection with “stage tricks.” Such tables187 contain, among other contrivances, what are called “pistons,” being small metal rods, which, by pulling a string, are made to rise vertically an inch or so above the surface of the table, sinking down again as soon as the cord is released. The pedestal is placed immediately above one of these, whose movement is in turn communicated to the loose piston in the pedestal, and thence to the coin.

The third and final way to perform the trick is using a special glass that has a hole drilled through its base. This glass is placed on a suitable pedestal (see Fig. 82), where a steel needle moves up and down, forming the upper part of a loose piston, a. The top of the pedestal is covered with green felt, which allows the needle to pass freely. When pushed upward, the needle hits the coin from below, creating a similar effect to pulling it from above with a thread. This pedestal can only be used with one of the mechanical tables that will be described in the “stage tricks” section. Such tables187 have various devices, including “pistons,” which are small metal rods that can be made to rise about an inch above the table's surface when a string is pulled, and drop back down as soon as the string is released. The pedestal is positioned directly above one of these pistons, and its movement is transferred to the loose piston in the pedestal, then to the coin.

It only remains to be stated how the necessary knowledge for the answers is communicated to the person who controls the movements of the piece. With respect to chosen cards, the cards are either indicated by the wording of the questions, or are agreed on beforehand, the performer taking care to “force” the right ones. The assistant is enabled to predict the throw of the dice by the simple expedient of using a small boxwood vase, in which there are two compartments, in one of which a pair of dice (apparently the same which have just been dropped in haphazard from the top) have been arranged beforehand for the purpose of the trick. The ordinary fortune-telling questions, as to “Which young lady will be married first?” “Which spends most time at her looking-glass?” “Which has most sweethearts?” and so on, are either answered in accordance with previous arrangement, or according to the fancy of the moment. Of course, where a question of this kind is asked, the performer takes care to follow up the question by designating a number of persons in succession, so that a mere “Yes” or “No” may be a sufficient answer.

It just needs to be explained how the necessary knowledge for the answers is communicated to the person controlling the piece's movements. For chosen cards, they're either indicated by the wording of the questions or agreed upon beforehand, with the performer making sure to "force" the right ones. The assistant can predict the dice roll by using a small boxwood vase with two compartments. In one compartment, a pair of dice (which seem to be the same ones just randomly dropped in from the top) has been prearranged for the trick. The usual fortune-telling questions, like "Which young lady will get married first?" "Who spends the most time in front of the mirror?" "Who has the most admirers?" and so on, are either answered based on prior arrangements or spontaneously. Naturally, when such a question is asked, the performer makes sure to follow up by naming several people in sequence, so a simple "Yes" or "No" can be enough.

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We shall next proceed to describe three or four pieces of apparatus designed to cause a piece of money to disappear, and therefore well adapted for commencing a coin trick. There are other appliances, more particularly adapted for re-producing a coin. Any of these will be available for the conclusion; the particular combination being at the option of the performer.

We will now describe three or four devices created to make a coin disappear, making them great for starting a coin trick. There are also other tools that are better suited for making a coin reappear. Any of these can be used for the finale, with the specific combination chosen by the performer.

The Vanishing Halfpenny Box. To make a Halfpenny vanish from the Box, and again return to it.—This is a little round box, made of boxwood, about an inch deep, and of such diameter that its internal measurement exactly admits a halfpenny; in other words, that if a halfpenny be placed in it, it exactly covers the188 bottom. The top and bottom of the box are lined with some bright-coloured paper, and with it is used a halfpenny, one side of which is covered with similar paper. If therefore this halfpenny be placed in the box with the papered side upwards, the halfpenny is naturally taken to be the bottom of the box, which thus appears empty.

The Vanishing Halfpenny Box. To make a Halfpenny disappear from the Box, and then make it return.—This is a small round box made of boxwood, about an inch deep, and its diameter is just right for a halfpenny to fit perfectly; in other words, when a halfpenny is placed inside, it completely covers the188 bottom. The top and bottom of the box are lined with colorful paper, and it comes with a halfpenny, one side of which is covered with matching paper. So, if this halfpenny is put in the box with the papered side facing up, it looks like the bottom of the box, making it appear empty.

The performer begins by tendering the box for examination, keeping the while the prepared halfpenny palmed in his right hand. When the box has been sufficiently inspected, he borrows a halfpenny from the audience, and secretly exchanges it for his own, taking care that the spectators only see the unprepared side of the latter. He then announces that this box, apparently so simple, has the singular faculty of causing the disappearance of any money entrusted to its keeping, as they will perceive when he places in it the halfpenny he has just borrowed. He places the halfpenny in it accordingly, holding it with the uncovered side towards the audience, but letting it so fall that it shall lie in the box with the papered side upwards. He now puts the lid on, and shakes the box up and down, to show by the rattling of the coin that it is still there. He desires the audience to say when they would wish the coin to leave the box, and on receiving their commands, touches the lid with his wand, and again shakes the box. This time, however, he shakes it laterally, and as in this direction the coin exactly fits the box, it has no room to rattle, and is therefore silent. He boldly asserts that the coin is gone, and opening the box, shows the inside to the spectators, who seeing, as they suppose, the papered bottom, are constrained to admit that it is empty. Once again he closes the box, and touches it with the wand, announcing that he will compel the coin to return. Shaking the box up and down, it is again heard to rattle. Taking off the lid, he turns the box upside down, and drops the coin into his hand. This brings it out with the papered side undermost, and so hidden. Again handing the box to be examined, he exchanges the prepared halfpenny for the one which was lent to him, and which he now returns to the owner with thanks.

The performer starts by offering the box for inspection, all while keeping the prepared halfpenny palmed in his right hand. After the audience has checked the box thoroughly, he borrows a halfpenny from someone in the crowd and discreetly swaps it for his own, ensuring that the spectators only see the unprepared side of his coin. He then announces that this seemingly simple box has the unique ability to make any money placed inside it disappear, which they will see when he puts the borrowed halfpenny in it. He places the halfpenny inside, holding it with the uncovered side facing the audience, but allows it to fall so that it lies in the box with the papered side facing up. He then closes the lid and shakes the box up and down to demonstrate that the coin is still inside by the sound it makes. He asks the audience to signal when they want the coin to leave the box, and upon receiving their cue, he touches the lid with his wand and shakes the box again. This time he shakes it sideways, and since the coin fits exactly in the box in that position, there’s no room to rattle, making it silent. He confidently claims that the coin has disappeared, and when he opens the box to reveal the inside, the audience, seeing what they think is the papered bottom, is compelled to acknowledge that it is empty. Closing the box once more, he taps it with the wand, declaring that he will make the coin reappear. Shaking the box up and down again, they hear it rattle. Taking off the lid, he turns the box upside down and drops the coin into his hand, bringing it out with the papered side facing down and thus hidden. He again hands the box over for inspection, swaps the prepared halfpenny for the one he borrowed, and then returns it to the owner with thanks.

A variation may be introduced by causing the borrowed halfpenny to re-appear in some other apparatus, after it has vanished from the box in question. The borrowed coin may, if desired, be marked, in order to heighten the effect of the trick.

A variation can be created by making the borrowed halfpenny reappear in a different device after it has disappeared from the original box. If desired, the borrowed coin can be marked to enhance the effect of the trick.

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The Rattle Box. To make a Coin vanish from the Box, though still heard to rattle within it.—This is a useful and ingenious little piece of apparatus. It is an oblong mahogany box, with a sliding lid. Its dimensions are about three inches by two, and one inch in depth externally; internally, it is only half that depth, and the end piece of the lid is of such a depth as to be flush with the bottom. Thus, if a coin be placed in the box, and the box held in such a position as to slant downwards to the opening, the coin will of its own weight fall into the hand that holds the box (see Fig. 83), thus giving the performer possession of it without the knowledge of the audience.

The Rattle Box. Make a coin vanish from the box while still being able to hear it rattling inside.—This is a handy and clever little device. It's a rectangular mahogany box with a sliding lid. It's about three inches long, two inches wide, and one inch deep on the outside; on the inside, it’s only half that deep, and the end piece of the lid is designed to be level with the bottom. So, if you put a coin in the box and tilt it down towards the opening, the coin will naturally fall into the hand holding the box (see Fig. 83), allowing the performer to take it without the audience knowing.

Fig. 83.

Between the true and the false bottom of the box is placed a slip of zinc, which, when the box is shaken laterally, moves from side to side, exactly simulating the sound of a coin shaken in the box. In its normal condition, however, this slip of zinc is held fast (and therefore kept silent) by the action of a spring also placed between the two bottoms, but is released for the time being by a pressure on a particular part of the outer bottom (the part in contact with the fingers in Fig. 83). A casual inspection of the box suggests nothing, save, perhaps, that its internal space is somewhat shallow in proportion to its external measurement.

Between the true and false bottom of the box is a slip of zinc that, when the box is shaken side to side, moves back and forth, perfectly mimicking the sound of a coin rattling inside. In its normal state, though, this slip of zinc is secured (and therefore silent) by a spring located between the two bottoms, but it can be temporarily released by pressing a specific area of the outer bottom (the part that touches the fingers in Fig. 83). A quick look at the box reveals nothing unusual, except maybe that its internal space seems a bit shallow compared to its external size.

The mode of using it is as follows: The performer invites any person to mark a coin, and to place it in the box, which he holds for that purpose as represented in the figure; and the coin is thus no sooner placed in the box than it falls into his hand. Transferring the box to the other hand, and pressing the spring, he shakes it to show by the sound that the coin is still there; then, leaving the box on the table, he prepares for the next phase of the trick by secretly placing the coin, which the audience believe to be still in190 the box, in any other apparatus in which he desires it to be found, or makes such other disposition of it as may be necessary. Having done this, and having indicated the direction in which he is about to command the coin to pass, he once more shakes the box to show that it is still in statu quo. Then, with the mystic word “Pass!” he opens the box, which is found empty, and shows that his commands have been obeyed.

The way to use it is as follows: The performer asks someone to mark a coin and put it in the box, which he holds for that purpose as shown in the figure; no sooner is the coin placed in the box than it falls into his hand. Transferring the box to his other hand and pressing the spring, he shakes it to show by sound that the coin is still inside; then, leaving the box on the table, he prepares for the next part of the trick by secretly placing the coin, which the audience thinks is still in190 the box, into any other device where he wants it to appear or makes any necessary arrangements. After doing this and indicating the direction in which he is about to make the coin move, he shakes the box again to demonstrate that it is still in statu quo. Then, with the magic word “Pass!”, he opens the box, which is found to be empty, proving that his commands have been executed.

Fig. 84. Fig. 85.

The Pepper-box, for vanishing money.—This is a small tin box, of the pepper-box or flour-dredger shape, standing three to four inches high. (See Fig. 84.) The box portion (as distinguished from the lid), is made double, consisting of two tin tubes sliding the one within the other, the bottom being soldered to the inner one only. By pulling the bottom downwards, therefore, you draw down with it the inner tube, telescope fashion. By so doing you bring into view a slit or opening at one side of the inner tube, level with the bottom, and of such a size as to let a coin, say a two-shilling piece, pass through it easily. (See Fig. 85.) The lid is also specially prepared. It has an inner or false top, and between the true and false top a loose bit of tin is introduced, which rattles when the box is shaken, unless you at the same time press a little point of wire projecting from one of the holes at the top, and so render it, for the time being, silent.

The Pepper Shaker, for disappearing money.—This is a small tin box shaped like a pepper shaker or flour dredger, standing about three to four inches tall. (See Fig. 84.) The box itself (as distinct from the lid) is designed in two parts, consisting of two tin tubes that slide into one another, with the bottom soldered only to the inner tube. By pulling the bottom downwards, you lower the inner tube in a telescoping manner. This action reveals a slit or opening on one side of the inner tube, aligned with the bottom, and large enough for a coin, like a two-shilling piece, to pass through easily. (See Fig. 85.) The lid is also specially modified. It has a false inner top, and between the true top and the false top, there’s a loose piece of tin that rattles when the box is shaken, unless you press a small wire point sticking out of one of the top holes, which silences it temporarily.

The box is first exhibited with the inner tube pushed up into its place, and the opening thereby concealed. A marked coin is borrowed, but either before or after the coin is placed therein, as may best suit his purpose, the performer secretly draws out the inner tube a quarter of an inch or so, thus allowing the coin to slip through into his hand. As he places the box on the table, a very slight pressure suffices to force the tube up again into its original position, and close the opening. Having made the necessary disposition of the coin, the performer takes up the box, and shakes it, to show (apparently) that the coin is still there, pressing on the little point above mentioned191 when he desires it to appear that it has departed, and immediately opening the box to show that it is empty. The pepper-box will not bear minute inspection, and is in this particular inferior to the rattle-box.

The box is first shown with the inner tube pushed into place, hiding the opening. A marked coin is borrowed, but either before or after the coin is put in, depending on what works best for him, the performer secretly pulls the inner tube out a little bit, letting the coin slip into his hand. As he sets the box on the table, a slight pressure is enough to push the tube back into its original position, closing the opening. After handling the coin as needed, the performer picks up the box and shakes it to make it seem like the coin is still inside, pressing on the small point mentioned earlier191 when he wants it to look like it's gone, and then immediately opens the box to show it's empty. The pepper-box won't hold up to close inspection and is in this respect not as good as the rattle-box.

Fig. 86. Fig. 87.

The Brass Money-box, for the same purpose.—This is on a similar principle to that of the pepper-box, but has no rattle movement, and is not adapted for any coin of larger size than a shilling. Its shape will be best understood from an examination of the diagrams. (See Figs. 86, 87.) It has no moveable lid, but merely a slit in the top, just large enough to admit the coin, which, when once dropped in, cannot be got out again without a knowledge of the secret.

The Brass Piggy Bank, for the same purpose.—This functions similarly to a pepper-box, but it doesn’t have a rattling mechanism and isn’t designed for any coin larger than a shilling. You can understand its shape better by looking at the diagrams. (See Figs. 86, 87.) It has no movable lid, just a slot on the top that’s just big enough for the coin to fit through. Once the coin is dropped in, it can't be retrieved without knowing the trick.

This, like the pepper-box, consists of two tubes one within the other; but the inner tube is firmly soldered to the two end pieces, a and b, which are solid. The only moveable portion is the outer tube c, which is so arranged as to slide upwards (within a) for about an eighth of an inch, thereby disclosing the opening of the inner tube, and allowing the coin to slip through. Fig. 87 represents the box with the slit open, and Fig. 86 with it closed.

This, like the pepper-box, has two tubes, one inside the other; however, the inner tube is securely welded to the solid end pieces, a and b. The only moving part is the outer tube c, which is designed to slide up (within a) for about an eighth of an inch, revealing the opening of the inner tube and allowing the coin to slide through. Fig. 87 shows the box with the slit open, and Fig. 86 shows it closed.

Some little practice is required to use the money-box with dexterity. The performer should hold it tightly by the middle between the finger and thumb of his right hand, taking care that the side on which the secret opening is shall lie toward the inside of his hand. As he drops the coin through the slit, he should press lightly on the top with the fingers of the left hand, and at the same time push c upwards with the right hand. The coin will now slip through into his hand, while a slight downward pressure as he replaces the box on the table will again push down c, and make all close as before. If the performer prefers to use one hand only, he should press downwards on the top with the first finger, at the same time pressing upwards with the second finger and thumb.

Some practice is needed to use the money box skillfully. The performer should grip it firmly in the middle between the finger and thumb of their right hand, making sure that the side with the secret opening faces the inside of their hand. As they drop the coin through the slit, they should lightly press down on the top with the fingers of their left hand while simultaneously pushing c upwards with their right hand. The coin will then slide into their hand, and a slight downward pressure as they put the box back on the table will again push down c and close everything up as before. If the performer prefers to use only one hand, they should press down on the top with their index finger while pushing up with their middle finger and thumb.

192 There are various ways of using this little apparatus. It may either be used as above, as a means of surreptitiously gaining possession of a coin, to be afterwards produced in some other apparatus, or it may be used by itself singly, the coin being made apparently to fall through the bottom at the will of the performer. It may also be used as a puzzle, its secret being so well concealed that it will bear a very minute examination without discovery.

192 There are several ways to use this small device. It can be used as mentioned above, as a way to secretly take a coin, which can later be revealed with another device, or it can be used alone, making it look like the coin is falling through the bottom at the performer's command. It can also be used as a puzzle, with its secret so well hidden that it can withstand very close inspection without being uncovered.

Fig. 88.

The Brass Box for Money, known as the “Plug-box.”—This is a piece of apparatus so ingenious in construction, and capable of being used in so many different ways, that we should recommend the student of magic to make it one of his first investments. It is about three inches in height, and one and a half in diameter, and is composed of four separate parts. See Fig. 88, in which a represents the outside or body of the box, being in reality a mere brass tube open at both ends, with a moveable bottom, b, which fits tightly in the end of a, appearing when in its place to be a fixture, and to form with a one complete whole; a has no lid, properly so called, but is closed by inserting in it what appears to be a solid brass plug or piston. This plug, however, though in appearance solid, also consists of two parts—the plug proper, c, which is really solid, and a brass sheath, d, exactly fitting it as to its diameter, but a quarter of an inch longer, thus leaving, when c is placed in d, and pushed home, a hollow space at the bottom of d capable of containing a florin or half-crown. The sheath d is of precisely the same length as a, and is so made as to fit easily upon c, but tightly within a. When the plug-box is exhibited to the audience, the bottom, b, is in its proper place, and c, which is shown apart from a, is covered with its sheath, d. There being nothing in its appearance to point to any other conclusion, the spectators naturally believe that the apparatus consists of those two parts only. If now the plug be placed within193 the box, and pushed home, the moveable bottom, b, will be pressed out, and fall into the hand of the performer. On again withdrawing the plug, the sheath d, which, as already mentioned, fits more tightly within a than upon c, is left within a; the bottom of d, which comes exactly flush with the lower edge of a, now appearing to be the bottom of the latter. To the eyes of the audience, the box is exactly as they saw it at first, and it may even be examined pretty freely, with little risk of its secret being discovered by any one.

The Brass Box for Money, commonly referred to as the “Plug-box.”—This is a cleverly designed device that can be used in many different ways, so we recommend that anyone studying magic make it one of their first purchases. It stands about three inches tall and has a diameter of one and a half inches, consisting of four separate parts. See Fig. 88, in which a represents the outer body of the box, which is essentially a brass tube open at both ends, with a movable bottom, b, that fits snugly into the end of a. When in place, it appears to be fixed and forms a complete unit; a does not have a proper lid but is closed off by inserting what looks like a solid brass plug or piston. However, this plug, although it appears solid, also has two parts—the main plug, c, that is actually solid, and a brass sheath, d, that fits perfectly over c in diameter but is a quarter of an inch longer, leaving a hollow space at the bottom of d capable of holding a florin or half-crown. The sheath d is exactly the same length as a and is designed to fit easily onto c while fitting tightly inside a. When the plug-box is shown to the audience, the bottom b is in its correct position, and c, which is displayed separately from a, is covered with its sheath, d. With nothing obvious to suggest otherwise, the spectators naturally assume that the device consists of just those two parts. If the plug is then placed inside the box and pushed down, the movable bottom b will be pushed out and fall into the performer's hand. When the plug is withdrawn again, the sheath d, which fits more snugly within a than it does around c, remains inside a; the bottom of d, which aligns perfectly with the lower edge of a, now looks like the bottom of a itself. To the audience, the box appears exactly as it did initially, and it can even be examined pretty freely, with little danger of its secret being revealed.

The plug-box may be used in a variety of different ways—to vanish, reproduce, or exchange. For the first purpose, the coin to be got rid of is dropped into a. When the plug is inserted, and pressed home, the coin falls, with b, into the hand of the performer; and on the plug being again withdrawn, nothing is seen but the interior of d, which is of course empty. Where it is desired to use the box for the purpose of reproducing a coin, such coin is placed beforehand within d. The box is first shown empty, but has only to be closed and re-opened, and the coin is found within it. For exchanges, the substitute is placed in d, and the genuine coin in a. This latter falls out with the bottom, and the substitute is in due course discovered. A half-crown may thus be changed to a penny, or a sovereign to a shilling.

The plug box can be used in several different ways—to disappear, reproduce, or swap. For the first use, the coin you want to get rid of is dropped into a. When the plug is inserted and pressed down, the coin falls, along with b, into the performer’s hand; and when the plug is pulled out again, all that’s visible is the inside of d, which is obviously empty. If you want to use the box to reproduce a coin, that coin should be placed inside d beforehand. The box is first shown as empty, but it only needs to be closed and then reopened for the coin to appear inside it. For swaps, the substitute is placed in d, and the real coin goes in a. The latter drops out with the bottom, and the substitute is then revealed. This way, a half-crown can be changed into a penny, or a sovereign into a shilling.

But the chief use of the plug-box is as an auxiliary in those more important tricks in which the coin, apparently remaining up to the last moment in the spectator’s own possession, is suddenly made to appear in some quarter to which (if it had really so remained) it could not possibly have been transported by natural means. The performer in this case places a similar coin beforehand in d. Dropping, or allowing the owner to drop, the marked coin into a, he closes the box, which he shakes to prove that the coin is really there. Giving the box to some one to hold, he is then enabled, without exciting the smallest suspicion, to retire, and make what disposition he pleases of the marked coin, which he has thus got into his own possession. When he has completed his arrangements, he again takes the box, and, opening it, takes out the substitute, which the audience naturally believe to be the genuine coin; and getting rid of this by sleight-of-hand or otherwise,194 passes the coin (at that very moment, so far as the audience can judge) to the place where it is ultimately destined to be found.

But the main use of the plug box is as a tool for those more significant tricks in which the coin, seemingly staying in the spectator’s possession until the last moment, suddenly reappears in a place it couldn’t have naturally gotten to if it had truly stayed there. In this case, the performer puts a similar coin inside d beforehand. After dropping, or letting the owner drop, the marked coin into a, he closes the box and shakes it to prove that the coin is really inside. By giving the box to someone to hold, he can, without raising any suspicion, quietly step away and do whatever he wants with the marked coin, which he has now acquired. Once he has finished his preparations, he takes the box again and, opening it, removes the substitute, which the audience naturally believes to be the real coin; and then, using sleight-of-hand or some other method, he gets rid of this,194 and passes the coin (at that exact moment, as far as the audience can see) to the spot where it will ultimately be found.

A favourite mode of using the plug-box is as follows:—A coin (say a florin) is wrapped in a small piece of paper, after which the coin is taken out and the paper again folded in such a manner as to retain the impression of the coin, and so to look, as far as possible, as if still containing it. The paper thus folded is placed beforehand in d, and the performer, borrowing a florin, requests the owner to wrap it carefully in a piece of paper, which he hands him for the purpose, and which is similar in size and general appearance to the folded piece. The florin, thus wrapped up, is placed in a, and the box closed, the performer thus gaining possession of paper and coin. The box is then handed to the owner of the money, who is asked to open it and see for himself that his money is still there. Seeing the folded paper, which he takes to be the same in which his money was wrapped, he answers in the affirmative. The box is again closed, the coin, meanwhile, being disposed of according to the pleasure of the operator—the owner finding on a closer examination that his money has departed from the box, though the paper in which it was wrapped (as he imagines) still remains.

A popular way to use the plug-box is as follows: A coin (let's say a florin) is wrapped in a small piece of paper, then the coin is taken out and the paper is folded again to keep the impression of the coin, making it look, as much as possible, like it still contains it. This folded paper is placed ahead of time in d, and the performer, borrowing a florin, asks the owner to carefully wrap it in a piece of paper, which the performer provides and which is similar in size and appearance to the folded piece. The florin, now wrapped, is placed in a, and the box is closed, allowing the performer to take both the paper and the coin. The box is then handed back to the owner of the money, who is asked to open it and check that his cash is still there. Upon seeing the folded paper, which he believes is the same one his money was wrapped in, he confirms that it is. The box is closed again, while the coin is discreetly gotten rid of by the performer—the owner later discovers that his money is missing from the box, even though the paper, which he thinks still contains it, is left behind.

The Handkerchief for Vanishing Money.—This is another appliance for vanishing a coin. It is an ordinary handkerchief of silk or cotton, in one corner of which, in a little pocket, is sewn a coin, say a florin or a penny, or any substitute which, felt through the substance of the handkerchief, shall appear to be such a coin. The mode of using it is very simple. Holding the handkerchief by the corner in which is the coin, and letting it hang loosely down, the performer borrows a similar coin, and, after carelessly shaking out the handkerchief, to show that all is fair, he places, to all appearance, the borrowed coin in the centre (underneath), and gives the handkerchief to some one to hold. In reality, he has only wrapped up the corner containing the substitute coin, and retains the genuine one for his own purposes. When it is desirable to make it appear that the coin has left the handkerchief, he simply takes it from the person holding it, and gives it a shake, at the same moment rapidly running the edges195 of the handkerchief through his hands, till the corner containing the coin comes into one or the other of them.

The Money-Disappearing Handkerchief.—This is another tool for making a coin disappear. It's just a regular silk or cotton handkerchief, with a small pocket sewn into one corner that holds a coin, like a florin or a penny, or any substitute that feels like that coin when touched through the handkerchief. Using it is really simple. By holding the handkerchief by the corner with the coin and letting it hang down loosely, the performer borrows a matching coin, and after casually shaking out the handkerchief to show everything is normal, he appears to place the borrowed coin in the center (underneath) and hands the handkerchief to someone to hold. In reality, he has just wrapped up the corner containing the substitute coin and keeps the real one for himself. When he wants to make it seem like the coin has left the handkerchief, he simply takes it from the person holding it, shakes it, while quickly running the edges195 of the handkerchief through his hands until the corner with the coin ends up in one of his hands.

The Demon Handkerchief (Le Mouchoir du Diable).—This is a recent improvement on the above, and possesses a much wider range of utility, inasmuch as it really does cause the disappearance of any article placed under it, and is available to vanish not only coin, but a card, an egg, a watch, or any other article of moderate size. It consists of two handkerchiefs, of the same pattern, stitched together all round the edges, and with a slit of about four inches in length cut in the middle of one of them. The whole space between the two handkerchiefs thus forms a kind of pocket, of which the slit above mentioned is the only opening. In shaking or otherwise manipulating the handkerchief, the performer takes care always to keep the side with the slit away from the spectators, to whom the handkerchief appears to be merely the ordinary article of everyday use. When he desires by its means to cause the disappearance of anything, he carelessly throws the handkerchief over the article, at the same time secretly passing the latter through the slit in the under side, and hands it thus covered to some one to hold. Then, taking the handkerchief by one corner, he requests him to let go, when the object is retained in the space between the two handkerchiefs, appearing to have vanished into empty air.

The Cursed Handkerchief (Le Mouchoir du Diable).—This is a recent upgrade from the previous version and has a much broader range of uses, as it genuinely makes any item placed beneath it disappear. It can vanish not just coins, but also cards, eggs, watches, or any other moderately sized object. It consists of two handkerchiefs of the same design, sewn together around the edges, with a slit about four inches long cut in the middle of one of them. The space between the two handkerchiefs forms a sort of pocket, with the slit being the only opening. When shaking or manipulating the handkerchief, the performer makes sure to keep the side with the slit hidden from the audience, making it look like a regular everyday item. When he wants to make something disappear, he casually throws the handkerchief over the item while secretly pushing it through the slit on the underside, then hands it over to someone to hold. After that, he takes the handkerchief by one corner and asks them to let go, leaving the object hidden in the space between the two handkerchiefs, making it seem like it has vanished into thin air.

This, like the plug-box, is an appliance which no conjuror should be without. It may be purchased ready-made at any of the depôts for magical apparatus, or may be of home-manufacture, which in this case (contrary to the general rule) is not unlikely to produce the better article.

This, like the plug-box, is a tool that every magician should have. You can buy it pre-made at any store that sells magic supplies, or you can make one yourself, which in this case (contrary to the usual rule) is actually likely to produce a better product.

The Davenport Cabinet.—This little cabinet must by no means be confounded with the wardrobe in which the notorious Brothers performed their mystic evolutions. The cabinet now in question is but four inches high and two and a half square, and consists of two parts, an outer case, or body, covered at the top, but otherwise open throughout, and a drawer, occupying the upper portion of its interior space. (See Fig. 89.) When the drawer is removed, the case, which has no bottom, may be examined throughout,196 and will be found to be perfectly plain and unsophisticated; save that a keen examiner might observe a little brass pin, a quarter of an inch long, projecting from the back of the cabinet on the inside, just on a level with the bottom of the drawer when replaced in its proper position. The drawer may also be examined, and will be found to be perfectly plain, with the bottom (which is so thin as to preclude any suspicion of a concealed space), covered within and without with black cloth. On turning the drawer round, and examining the back, a minute hole may be discovered, corresponding in situation with the brass pin already mentioned. If a pin be thrust into this hole, the purpose of the two is immediately manifest; for the pressure of the pin releases a tiny catch, and allows the bottom of the drawer, which is in reality only supported by this catch at the back and a cloth hinge in the front, to drop into the position indicated in Fig. 90. This is precisely what takes place when the drawer, being restored to its proper position in the cabinet, is duly closed. The pressure of the brass pin at the back releases the catch, and the bottom of the drawer falls as just described, and allows any article which may have been placed therein to drop into the hand of the person holding the cabinet. (See Fig. 91.) The act of pulling out the drawer again presses the bottom up to its proper place, where it is secured by the catch until once more released by the pressure of the pin. The strong point of this ingenious little apparatus is that it is absolutely self-acting, and its secret can only be detected by examining the cabinet from below at the moment when the drawer is pushed home; and this it is easy to prevent by the simple expedient of handing each portion separately for inspection.

The Davenport Cabinet.—This small cabinet should not be confused with the wardrobe where the infamous Brothers performed their magic tricks. The cabinet in question is only four inches tall and two and a half inches square. It consists of two parts: an outer case, or body, which is covered on top but open otherwise, and a drawer that takes up the upper part of the inside space. (See Fig. 89.) When the drawer is taken out, the case, which has no bottom, can be fully examined and will appear completely plain and simple; however, a careful observer might notice a small brass pin, about a quarter of an inch long, sticking out from the back of the cabinet on the inside, level with the bottom of the drawer when it’s correctly in place. The drawer can also be examined and will be found to be totally plain, with the bottom (which is so thin that it raises no suspicion of a hidden space) covered inside and out with black cloth. If you turn the drawer around and check the back, you’ll find a tiny hole that lines up with the brass pin mentioned earlier. If a pin is inserted into this hole, the purpose of both becomes clear; pressing the pin releases a small catch, allowing the bottom of the drawer, which is actually only held up by this catch at the back and a cloth hinge at the front, to drop as illustrated in Fig. 90. This is exactly what happens when the drawer is put back in its place and closed. The pressure from the brass pin at the back releases the catch, causing the bottom of the drawer to fall as described and letting any item inside drop into the hand of the person holding the cabinet. (See Fig. 91.) Pulling the drawer out again pushes the bottom back up to its proper position, where it stays secured by the catch until released again by the pin's pressure. The clever feature of this little device is that it works completely on its own, and the secret can only be discovered by examining the cabinet from underneath at the moment when the drawer is fully inserted; this can easily be avoided by simply handing each part separately for inspection.

Fig. 89. Fig. 90. Fig. 91.

The performer begins by handing first the cabinet and then the drawer for examination. Then, placing the cabinet on the palm of197 his hand, he invites any one of the audience to deposit any small article, a coin, a ring, a watch, etc., in the drawer, and to replace the drawer in the cabinet. As soon as the drawer is closed, the article drops through into his hand. Taking hold of the cabinet with the other hand (lifting it by the top only, and with the very tips of his fingers, so as to preclude all apparent possibility of deception), he places it on the table or elsewhere, in full view. Having thus gained possession of the borrowed article, he concludes the trick by reproducing it in any manner he thinks proper.

The performer starts by showing the cabinet and then the drawer to the audience for inspection. Next, he places the cabinet in the palm of197 his hand and invites a member of the audience to put a small item, like a coin, a ring, a watch, etc., into the drawer and then to put the drawer back in the cabinet. Once the drawer is closed, the item falls into his hand. He then lifts the cabinet with his other hand (holding it only by the top with just his fingertips, making it clear that there’s no way to trick anyone), and sets it on the table or another visible spot. After obtaining the borrowed item, he finishes the trick by revealing it in whichever way he prefers.

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We have thus far discussed pieces of apparatus more especially designed to cause the disappearance of a coin, and thus adapted for use in the first stage of a trick. We shall next consider such as are intended to reproduce, under more or less surprising circumstances, the coin thus got rid of, such reproduction forming the second stage, or dénouement.

We have so far talked about devices specifically made to make a coin vanish, which are used in the first part of a trick. Next, we will look at those designed to make the disappeared coin reappear, often in surprising ways; this reappearance constitutes the second part, or dénouement.

The Nest of Boxes.—This consists of a number, generally six, but sometimes more, of circular wooden boxes, one within the other, the largest or outer box having much the appearance, but being nearly double the size, of an ordinary tooth-powder box, and the smallest being just large enough to contain a shilling. The series is so accurately made, that by arranging the boxes in due order one within the other, and the lids in like manner, you may, by simply putting on all the lids together, close all the boxes at once, though they can only be opened one by one.

The Box Nest.—This consists of several, usually six but sometimes more, circular wooden boxes, each one fitting inside the other. The largest or outer box looks quite similar to an ordinary tooth-powder container but is nearly twice its size, while the smallest is just big enough to hold a shilling. The boxes are made so precisely that if you stack them correctly, with the lids arranged the same way, you can close all the boxes at once by simply putting on all the lids together, even though they can only be opened one at a time.

These are placed, the boxes together and the lids together, anywhere so as to be just out of sight of the audience. If on your table, they may be hidden by any more bulky article. Having secretly obtained possession, by either of the means before described, of a coin which is ostensibly deposited in some other piece of apparatus, e.g., the Davenport Cabinet, you seize your opportunity to drop it into the innermost box, and to put on the united lids. You then bring forward the nest of boxes (which the spectators naturally take to be one box only), and announce that the shilling will at your command pass from the place in which it has been deposited into the box which you hold in your hand, and which you forthwith deliver to one198 of the audience for safe keeping. Touching both articles with the mystic wand, you invite inspection of the first to show that the money has departed, and then of the box, wherein it is to be found. The holder opens the box, and finds another, and then another, and in the innermost of all the marked coin. Seeing how long the several boxes have taken to open, the spectators naturally infer that they must take as long to close, and (apart from the other mysteries of the trick), are utterly at a loss to imagine how, with the mere moment of time at your command, you could have managed to insert the coin, and close so many boxes.

These are placed, the boxes together and the lids together, anywhere just out of sight of the audience. If they're on your table, they can be hidden by any larger item. After secretly getting a coin, which is supposedly placed in some other apparatus, like the Davenport Cabinet, you seize the chance to drop it into the innermost box and put the combined lids on. You then present the nest of boxes (which the spectators naturally assume is one box only) and announce that the shilling will, at your command, move from where it has been placed into the box you’re holding, which you immediately hand to one198 of the audience for safekeeping. By touching both items with the magic wand, you invite them to inspect the first box to show that the money has vanished, and then the box where it's supposed to be found. The person holding it opens the box, finds another one, and then another, until they reach the innermost box with the marked coin. Noticing how long it took to open each of the boxes, the spectators naturally assume it will take just as long to close them, and, aside from the other mysteries of the trick, are completely puzzled about how, with only a moment of time at your disposal, you managed to insert the coin and close so many boxes.

If you desire to use the nest for a coin larger than a shilling, you can make it available for that purpose by removing beforehand the smallest box. Nests of square boxes, with hinged lids and self-closing locks, are made, both in wood and in tin, on the same principle. These are designed for larger articles, and greatly vary in size and price.

If you want to use the nest for a coin bigger than a shilling, you can prepare it for that by first taking out the smallest box. Nests of square boxes, with hinged lids and self-closing locks, are made from both wood and tin, following the same principle. These are meant for larger items and come in a wide range of sizes and prices.

The Ball of Berlin Wool.—An easy and effective mode of terminating a money trick is to pass the marked coin into the centre of a large ball of Berlin wool or worsted, the whole of which has to be unwound before the coin can be reached. The modus operandi, though perplexing to the uninitiated, is absurdly simple when the secret is revealed. The only apparatus necessary over and above the wool (of which you must have enough for a good-sized ball), is a flat tin tube, three to four inches in length, and just large enough to allow a florin or shilling (whichever you intend to use for the trick) to slip through it easily. You prepare for the trick by winding the wool on one end of the tube, in such manner that when the whole is wound in a ball, an inch or so of the tube may project from it. This you place in your pocket, or anywhere out of sight of the audience. You commence the trick by requesting some one to mark a coin, which you forthwith exchange, by one or other of the means already described, for a substitute of your own, and leave the latter in the possession or in view of the spectators, while you retire to fetch your ball of wool, or simply take it from your pocket. Before producing it, you drop the genuine coin down the tube into the centre of the ball, and withdraw the tube, giving the ball a squeeze to199 remove all trace of an opening. You then bring it forward, and place it in a glass goblet or tumbler, which you hand to a spectator to hold. Taking the substitute coin, you announce that you will make it pass invisibly into the very centre of the ball of wool, which you accordingly pretend to do, getting rid of it by means of one or other of the Passes described in Chapter VI. You then request a second spectator to take the loose end of the wool, and to unwind the ball, which, when he has done, the coin falls out into the goblet.

The Berlin Wool Ball.—A simple and effective way to finish a money trick is to hide a marked coin inside a large ball of Berlin wool or yarn, which has to be completely unraveled before reaching the coin. The modus operandi, while confusing for those not in the know, is extremely easy once you understand the secret. The only additional tools you'll need besides the wool (make sure you have enough for a decent-sized ball) are a flat tin tube, about three to four inches long, just wide enough for a florin or shilling (whichever coin you're using for the trick) to slide through easily. To set up the trick, wrap the wool around one end of the tube so that when it’s all formed into a ball, an inch or so of the tube sticks out. Keep this hidden in your pocket or out of sight of the audience. Start the trick by asking someone to mark a coin, which you then secretly switch for a substitute coin of your own while leaving the substitute in view of the spectators. Then, you either fetch your ball of wool or simply take it out of your pocket. Before revealing it, drop the real coin into the tube at the center of the ball and pull out the tube, squeezing the ball to hide any sign of an opening. Then, show the ball and place it in a glass goblet or tumbler, which you hand to a spectator to hold. Taking the substitute coin, you announce that you will make it disappear into the center of the wool ball, which you pretend to do, disposing of it using one of the moves described in Chapter VI. Next, ask a second spectator to take the loose end of the wool and unravel the ball, and when they do, the coin will fall into the goblet.

The only drawback to the trick is the tediousness of the process of unwinding. To obviate this, some performers use a wheel made for the purpose, which materially shortens the length of the operation.

The only downside to the trick is how tedious the unwinding process can be. To avoid this, some performers use a special wheel designed for the task, which significantly cuts down the time it takes.

The Glass Goblet and Cover.—This apparatus consists of an ordinary glass goblet, of rather large size, with a japanned tin cover, in shape not unlike the lid of a coffee-pot, but of sufficient height to contain, in an upright position, a couple of florins or half-crowns. These are placed side by side in a flat tube, just large enough to admit them, fixed in a slightly sloping position in the upper part of the cover, and divided in two by a tin partition. Across the lower end of this tube is a tin slide, which, in its normal condition, is kept closed by the action of a spring, but is drawn back whenever a knob on the top of the cover is pressed down. If a slight pressure be applied, one coin only is released; but if the knob be still further pressed down, the second also falls. The mechanism of the cover is concealed by a flat plate or lining, also of tin, soldered just within it, with an oblong opening just large enough to admit of the passage of the coins. The inside of the cover is japanned black, the outside according to the taste of the maker.

The Glass Cup and Lid.—This device consists of a fairly large glass goblet with a tin cover that's been painted. The shape is somewhat similar to a coffee pot lid, but it's tall enough to hold a couple of florins or half-crowns upright. These coins are placed side by side in a flat tube, just big enough to fit them, positioned at a slight angle in the upper part of the cover and separated by a tin divider. At the lower end of this tube, there's a tin slide that normally stays closed due to a spring mechanism, but it can be moved back when a knob on the top of the cover is pressed. If you apply a little pressure, only one coin is released; however, if you press the knob down further, the second coin falls out as well. The workings of the cover are hidden by a flat tin plate or lining, which is soldered just inside it and has an oblong opening that allows the coins to pass through. The inside of the cover is painted black, while the outside can be finished according to the maker's design.

You take care not to bring on the goblet and cover until you have, by substitution, gained possession of the two marked coins which you have borrowed for the purpose of the trick. Retiring to fetch the glass and cover, you prepare the latter by inserting the marked coins. This you do by holding the cover upside down, pressing the knob (thus drawing back the spring slide), and dropping the coins into their receptacle. On removing the pressure on the knob, the slide returns to its normal position. You then bring forward the200 goblet and cover, and place them on the table. Holding the goblet upside down, to show that it is empty, you place the cover over it, ostensibly to prevent anything being secretly passed into it, and, for still greater security, throw a handkerchief, borrowed for that purpose, over the whole. You now announce that, notwithstanding the difficulties which you have voluntarily placed in the way, you will pass the two marked coins through the handkerchief, and through the metal cover into the glass. Taking in your right hand one of the substitutes, which have all along remained in sight, and which the audience take to be the genuine coins, you pretend by Pass 1 to transfer it to your left, and pressing gently on the knob with the last-mentioned hand, cause one of the marked coins to drop from the cover, at the same moment opening the hand to show that the coin has left it. The audience hear, though they do not see, the fall of the coin. With the second coin it is well to introduce an element of variety, and you may therefore offer to dispense with the handkerchief, that all may see as well as hear the coin arrive. As a further variation, you may use your wand as the conducting medium. Taking the substitute coin in the left hand, you apparently, by Pass 4, transfer it to your right. Then taking the wand in the left hand, you hold it perpendicularly, with its lower end resting upon the knob of the cover. Holding it with the thumb and second finger of the right hand, one on each side of it, you draw them smartly downwards, at the same time pressing with the wand on the knob, when the second coin will be seen and heard to fall into the glass. Taking off the cover, and leaving it on the table, you bring forward the glass, and allow the owners to take out and identify the coins.

You make sure not to bring out the goblet and cover until you've secretly swapped in and taken possession of the two marked coins you borrowed for the trick. After stepping away to get the glass and cover, you prepare the cover by placing the marked coins inside. You do this by holding the cover upside down, pressing the knob (which draws back the spring slide), and dropping the coins into their spot. When you release the knob, the slide goes back to its original position. You then bring the goblet and cover to the table. Holding the goblet upside down to show it's empty, you put the cover on top, supposedly to keep anyone from secretly adding anything, and for extra safety, you drape a borrowed handkerchief over the whole setup. You now announce that despite the obstacles you've set up, you'll make the two marked coins pass through the handkerchief and the metal cover into the glass. Taking one of the substitute coins, which has been visible the whole time and looks like the real coins, in your right hand, you pretend to transfer it to your left. While gently pressing the knob with your left hand, one of the marked coins drops from the cover, and at the same time, you open your hand to show that the coin is no longer there. The audience hears the coin fall, even though they don’t see it. For the second coin, it’s good to mix things up, so you might choose to do it without the handkerchief, letting everyone see and hear the coin drop. As another twist, you can use your wand as the medium. Holding the substitute coin in your left hand, you seemingly transfer it to your right. Then, with the wand in your left hand, you hold it upright with the lower end resting on the knob of the cover. Using your right hand’s thumb and second finger, you grip it on either side and quickly pull down while pressing the wand against the knob, causing the second coin to visibly and audibly fall into the glass. After removing the cover and leaving it on the table, you bring the glass forward and let the owners take out and identify the coins.

It is a great addition to have a second cover, similar in appearance to the first, but hollow throughout, and without any mechanism. You are thus enabled to hand both goblet and cover for examination before performing the trick. As you return to your table, your back being towards the spectators, you have ample opportunity for substituting the mechanical cover, the plain one being dropped either into one of your profondes, or on to the servante of your table.

It’s a fantastic idea to have a second cover that looks like the first one, but is hollow inside and doesn’t have any mechanism. This allows you to show both the goblet and the cover for inspection before you do the trick. When you go back to your table, with your back to the audience, you have plenty of time to switch the mechanical cover, dropping the plain one into one of your profondes, or onto the servante of your table.

The Glass without Cover, for Money.—This is of tumbler shape, without foot, and of green or other dark-coloured glass,201 so that it is semi-opaque. In this instance no cover is used, and the borrowed coins are not seen, but merely heard, to drop into the glass, where they are found in due course.

The Uncapped Glass, for Cash.—This is shaped like a tumbler, with no base, made of green or other dark-colored glass,201 making it semi-opaque. In this case, there’s no cover used, and the coins that are put in can't be seen, only heard as they drop into the glass, where they are eventually discovered.

The secret of the glass lies in a false bottom of tin, working on a hinge, and held down by a catch worked by a pin through the bottom of the glass, and flying up with a spring when released. The performer, having gained possession of three or four borrowed coins by either of the means before mentioned, retires to fetch the glass, and takes the opportunity to place the coins beneath the false bottom. He then comes forward, glass in hand. He does not offer the glass for examination, but turns it upside down, and rattles his wand inside it, showing, ostensibly, that it is empty. Having done this, he places it on his table, as near the back of the stage as possible, at the same time moving the catch, and so releasing the false bottom, which naturally flies up, and uncovers the concealed coins. Standing at a considerable distance from the glass, he takes one by one the substitutes, which to the eyes of the audience represent the genuine coins, and gets rid of them by one or other of the various passes, saying as each one apparently vanishes from his hand, “One, two, three—Pass!” At the same moment the sound of a falling coin is heard, proceeding apparently from the glass, but really from behind the scenes, or any other available spot out of sight, where an assistant, placed as near to the glass as circumstances will admit, drops another coin into another glass. If the position of the assistant, with reference to the audience, is pretty nearly in a straight line with the glass which they see, the illusion will be perfect. When all the coins are supposed to have passed in this manner, the performer, advancing to the glass, pours out, either upon a tray or upon his open palm, the borrowed coins, and leaving the glass upon the table, comes forward, and requests the owners to identify them.

The trick with the glass involves a false bottom made of tin, which works on a hinge and is secured by a catch operated by a pin through the bottom of the glass, popping up with a spring when released. The performer, having borrowed three or four coins using one of the earlier methods, steps away to get the glass and takes the chance to place the coins under the false bottom. Then he returns with the glass in hand. He doesn’t let anyone examine the glass but flips it upside down and shakes his wand inside it, apparently showing that it’s empty. After doing this, he sets it on his table, positioned as far back on the stage as possible, while simultaneously moving the catch to release the false bottom, which pops up and reveals the hidden coins. Standing at a distance from the glass, he takes the fake coins—each one looking like the real coins to the audience—and makes them disappear with various gestures, saying with each apparent vanishing, “One, two, three—Pass!” At the same time, the sound of a falling coin is heard, seeming to come from the glass, but it’s actually coming from backstage or another hidden area, where an assistant, positioned as close to the glass as possible, drops another coin into another glass. If the assistant is nearly in a straight line with the glass the audience sees, the illusion will be seamless. Once all the coins are believed to have vanished this way, the performer walks up to the glass and pours out the borrowed coins onto a tray or into his open palm, and after leaving the glass on the table, he steps forward and asks the owners to identify their coins.

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We have thus far described eight different contrivances for vanishing money, and (including the “plug-box,” which may be used in both ways) five for reproducing it. It is obvious that either of the first may be used in combination with either of the second, producing some fifty different effects. By the use of sleight-of-hand in place of apparatus at either stage of the trick, still more numerous variations202 may be produced, and these may be still further multiplied by the use of other appliances to be hereafter described, which, though of less general utility, may be occasionally introduced with excellent effect. The apparatus which we shall next describe is one which is very frequently used in combination with that last mentioned. It is known as

We have described eight different methods for making money disappear and, including the “plug-box,” five methods for bringing it back. It's clear that any of the first can be combined with any of the second, resulting in about fifty different outcomes. By using sleight-of-hand instead of tools at any point in the trick, we can create even more variations, and these can be further expanded by using other devices that we'll discuss later, which, while not always practical, can sometimes be used effectively. The tool we will discuss next is one that is often used in conjunction with the last one mentioned. It is known as

The Miraculous Casket.—This is a neat leather- or velvet-covered box, about three inches by two, and two and a half high. When opened, it is seen to be filled with a velvet cushion or stuffing, after the manner of a ring-case, with four slits, each just large enough to admit a half-crown or florin. (See Fig. 92.) By an ingenious mechanical arrangement in the interior, which it would take too much space to describe at length, each time the box is closed one of the coins is made to drop down into the lower part, and on the box being reopened is found to have vanished.

The Amazing Casket.—This is a stylish box covered in leather or velvet, about three inches long, two inches wide, and two and a half inches high. When you open it, you see it's lined with a velvet cushion or stuffing, similar to a ring box, featuring four slits that are just the right size to fit a half-crown or florin. (See Fig. 92.) Thanks to a clever mechanical setup inside—which would take too long to explain here—each time the box is closed, one of the coins drops into the bottom part, and when the box is reopened, the coin is mysteriously gone.

Fig. 92.

The casket may be used in many tricks with good effect. In combination with the magic glass, last above described, it is employed as follows:—The four coins which have been substituted for the genuine ones are placed, in sight of all, in the magic casket, which is then closed, and handed to one of the audience to hold. The performer then states that he is about to order the four coins now in the casket to pass one by one into the glass upon the table. “One!” he exclaims. A coin is heard to fall into the glass. The person who holds the casket is requested to open it; three coins only are left. It is again closed, and the performer says, “Two!” Again the chink of the falling coin is heard, and another coin is found to have disappeared from the casket. The operation is repeated till all have vanished, and the operator pours forth from the glass four coins, which, on examination, are found to be the same which were originally borrowed, and which the audience believe that they saw placed in the casket.

The casket can be utilized in many tricks with great effect. When used together with the magic glass described earlier, it works as follows: The four coins that have been switched for the real ones are placed, visible to everyone, in the magic casket, which is then closed and handed to a member of the audience to hold. The performer announces that he is going to command the four coins currently in the casket to move one by one into the glass on the table. “One!” he declares. A coin is heard dropping into the glass. The person holding the casket is asked to open it; only three coins remain. It is closed again, and the performer says, “Two!” Again, the sound of a coin falling is heard, and yet another coin is found to have disappeared from the casket. The process is repeated until all have vanished, and the performer retrieves four coins from the glass, which, upon closer inspection, are revealed to be the same ones that were originally borrowed, and which the audience believes they saw placed in the casket.

203 The casket may also be used with capital effect in conjunction with

203 The casket can also be used effectively in combination with

The Half-crown (or Florin) Wand.—This is a wand, apparently of ebony, but really of brass, japanned black. It is about twelve inches in length, and five-eighths of an inch in diameter. On one side of it, and so placed as to be just under the ball of the thumb when the wand is held in the hand, is a little stud, which moves backwards and forwards for a short distance (about an inch and a quarter), like the sliding ring of a pencil-case. When this stud is pressed forward, a half-crown or florin, as the case may be, appears on the opposite end of the wand (see Fig. 93), retiring within it when the stud is again drawn back. The half-crown is a genuine one, but is cut into three portions, as indicated in Fig. 94, which represents a transverse section of it at right angles to the actual cuts. Each of the three segments is attached to a piece of watch-spring, and from the direction of the cuts it is obvious that, when these pieces of watch-spring are pressed together (as they naturally are when drawn back into the wand), c will be drawn behind, and a in front of b. (See Fig. 95.)

The Half-crown (or Florin) Wand.—This wand looks like it’s made of ebony but is actually made of brass coated in black enamel. It’s about twelve inches long and five-eighths of an inch wide. On one side, positioned just beneath the ball of the thumb when held, there’s a small stud that moves back and forth for a short range (about an inch and a quarter), similar to the sliding ring on a pencil case. When this stud is pushed forward, a half-crown or florin, depending on which is used, shows up at the other end of the wand (see Fig. 93), retracting back inside when the stud is pulled back. The half-crown is real but is cut into three pieces, as shown in Fig. 94, which illustrates a cross-section at right angles to the cuts. Each of the three segments is attached to a piece of watch spring, and from the direction of the cuts, it’s clear that when these watch-spring pieces are pressed together (as they naturally are when pulled back into the wand), c will go behind, and a will come in front of b. (See Fig. 95.)

Fig. 95. Fig. 93. Fig. 94.

The wand is used as follows:—The performer palms in his left hand as many half-crowns as he intends to produce. Then, taking the wand in the right hand, and lightly touching with it the spot whence he desires to (apparently) produce a half-crown, he pushes forward the stud, and the split coin appears on the opposite end of the wand. He now draws the upper part of the wand through the left hand, at the same moment pressing back the stud, and causing the split coin to retire within the wand, immediately handing for examination with the left hand one of the half-crowns already placed there, and which by this gesture he appears to have just taken204 from the top of the wand. This is again repeated, and another half-crown exhibited, till the stock in the left hand is exhausted.

The wand is used like this:—The performer holds as many half-crowns in his left hand as he plans to produce. Then, he takes the wand in his right hand and lightly touches the spot where he wants to (seemingly) create a half-crown, pushes the stud forward, and the split coin appears at the other end of the wand. He then pulls the upper part of the wand through his left hand while pressing the stud back, making the split coin disappear inside the wand, and immediately hands over one of the half-crowns already in his left hand for examination, making it seem like he just took it from the top of the wand. This is repeated, and another half-crown is shown, until the supply in the left hand runs out.204

It is desirable, on each occasion of pressing forward or withdrawing the stud, to place the opposite end of the wand in such a situation as to be a little shielded from the eyes of the spectators, so that they may not see the actual appearance or disappearance of the coin. A very slight “cover” will be sufficient. The end of the wand may be placed within a person’s open mouth (and withdrawn with the half-crown thereon), within a pocket, or the like. Where no such cover is available, a quick semi-circular sweep should be made with the wand as the coin is protruded or withdrawn.

It’s helpful, whenever you’re pushing in or pulling out the stud, to position the other end of the wand in a way that’s a bit hidden from the audience, so they can’t see the coin actually appearing or disappearing. Just a tiny bit of “cover” will do. You can place the end of the wand inside someone’s open mouth (and pull it out with the half-crown there), in a pocket, or somewhere similar. If you don’t have any kind of cover, make a quick semi-circular motion with the wand as you show or hide the coin.

With the aid of this wand the passage of the four half-crowns from the casket to the glass, just described, becomes still more effective. The four substitute half-crowns having been placed in the casket, and the latter closed, the performer announces that he will withdraw them visibly, one by one, and will then invisibly pass them into the glass. Further, to prove that the trick is not performed by any mechanical or physical means, he will not even take the casket in his hand, but will withdraw the coins one by one with his wand, and thence pass them direct into the glass. Touching the casket with the wand, he presses the stud, and shows the half-crown on the end. Apparently taking off the coin with his left hand, as before described (the hand, however, being in this case empty), he makes the motion of throwing the coin from the hand to the glass, saying, “Pass!” The sound of a falling coin is heard (as already explained), and he shows that his hand is empty, the same process being repeated as to the remaining coins.

With this wand, the transfer of the four half-crowns from the box to the glass, as just described, becomes even more impressive. After placing the four substitute half-crowns in the box and closing it, the performer states that he will visibly take them out, one at a time, and then invisibly transfer them into the glass. To demonstrate that the trick isn’t done with any mechanical or physical methods, he won’t even pick up the box; instead, he will remove the coins one by one using his wand and directly pass them into the glass. Touching the box with the wand, he presses the button and reveals the half-crown on the tip. As he pretends to pull out the coin with his left hand, as described earlier (though this hand is actually empty), he makes a throwing motion towards the glass and says, “Pass!” The sound of a coin dropping is heard (as already explained), and he shows his hand is empty, repeating the same process for the remaining coins.

The wand may also be effectively introduced in the trick of the Shower of Money, which next follows. After having caught in the ordinary manner such number of coins as he thinks fit, the performer perceives, or pretends to perceive, that the audience suspect that the coins are in some manner concealed in his right hand. To show that this is not the case, he offers to catch a few coins on the top of his wand instead of in his hand, and finishes the trick by producing two or three on the wand accordingly. Wherever you can, as in this instance, produce the same result by two wholly different methods the effect on the audience is most bewildering. Their conjectures205 as to the explanation of the first method being inadmissible as to the second, and vice versâ, the more they puzzle over the matter, the further are they likely to be from a correct solution.

The wand can also be effectively used in the trick known as the Shower of Money, which follows next. After catching a number of coins in the usual way, the performer notices, or pretends to notice, that the audience suspects he has somehow concealed the coins in his right hand. To prove that this isn't true, he offers to catch a few coins on top of his wand instead of in his hand, and wraps up the trick by producing two or three coins on the wand. Whenever you can, like in this case, create the same result using two completely different methods; it leaves the audience completely puzzled. Their guesses about the explanation for the first method don't apply to the second, and the more they try to figure it out, the further away they are likely to be from the right answer.

The Shower of Money.—The magical phenomenon known under this name surpasses the philosopher’s stone, in the pursuit of which so many of the wise men of old expended their lives and fortunes. The alchemist’s secret aimed only at producing the raw material, but the magician’s quick eye and ready hand gather from space money ready coined. Unfortunately, the experiment is subject to the same drawback as the more ancient process—viz., that each twenty shillings produced cost precisely twenty shillings, leaving hardly sufficient profit to make this form of money-making remunerative as a commercial undertaking.

The Money Shower.—The magical phenomenon known by this name is more impressive than the philosopher’s stone, which so many ancient wise men wasted their lives and fortunes chasing. The alchemist’s goal was only to create the raw material, but the magician’s keen eye and skilled hand collect ready-made coins from thin air. Unfortunately, the experiment suffers from the same issue as the older process—every twenty shillings produced actually costs exactly twenty shillings, leaving barely enough profit to make this type of money-making worthwhile as a business venture.

The effect of the trick is as follows:—The performer borrows a hat, which he holds in his left hand. Turning up his sleeves, he announces that he requires a certain number, say ten, of florins or half-crowns. The spectators put their hands in their pockets with the idea of contributing to the supposed loan; but the professor, anticipating their intention, says, “No, thank you; I won’t trouble you this time. There seems to be a good deal of money about tonight; I think I will help myself. See, here is a half-crown hanging to the gaselier. Here is another climbing up the wall. Here is another just settling on this lady’s hair. Excuse me, sir, but you have a half-crown in your whiskers. Permit me, madam; you have just placed your foot on another,” and so on. At each supposed new discovery the performer takes with his right hand, from some place where there clearly was nothing an instant before, a half-crown, which he drops into the hat held in his left hand, finally turning over the hat, and pouring the coins from it, to show that there has been “no deception.”

The effect of the trick is as follows: The performer borrows a hat, which he holds in his left hand. He rolls up his sleeves and announces that he needs a specific number, say ten, of florins or half-crowns. The audience reaches into their pockets, thinking they’ll contribute to this supposed loan; but the professor, anticipating their move, says, “No thanks; I won’t bother you this time. There seems to be quite a bit of money around tonight; I think I’ll help myself. Look, there’s a half-crown hanging from the chandelier. Here’s another one climbing up the wall. And there’s one just resting on this lady’s hair. Excuse me, sir, but you have a half-crown in your whiskers. Allow me, madam; you just stepped on another one,” and so on. With each supposed new find, the performer takes with his right hand a half-crown from some place where there clearly was nothing just moments before and drops it into the hat in his left hand, eventually turning the hat over and pouring the coins out to prove that there was “no deception.”

The explanation is very simple, the trick being merely a practical application of the art of “palming,” though its effect depends on the manner and address of the operator even more than on his skill in sleight-of-hand. The performer provides himself beforehand with ten half-crowns. Of these he palms two in his right hand, and the remainder in his left. When he takes the hat, he holds it in the206 left hand, with the fingers inside and the thumb outside, in which position it is comparatively easy to drop the coins one by one from the hand into the hat. When he pretends to see the first half-crown floating in the air, he lets one of the coins in his right hand drop to his finger-tips, and, making a clutch at the air, produces it as if just caught. This first coin he really does drop into the hat, taking care that all shall see clearly that he does so. He then goes through a similar process with the second; but when the time comes to drop it into the hat, he merely pretends to do so, palming the coin quickly in the right hand, and at the same moment letting fall into the hat one of the coins concealed in his left hand. The audience, hearing the sound, naturally believe it to be occasioned by the fall of the coin they have just seen. The process is repeated until the coins in the left hand are exhausted. Once more the performer appears to clutch a coin from space, and showing for the last time that which has all along been in his right hand, tosses it into the air, and catches it visibly in the hat. Pouring out the coins on a tray, or into the lap of one of the company, he requests that they may be counted, when they are found to correspond with the number which he has apparently collected from the surrounding atmosphere.

The explanation is very simple; the trick is just a practical use of the art of “palming,” but its effect relies even more on the performer’s presentation and style than on their sleight-of-hand skills. The performer starts by getting ten half-crowns. They palm two in their right hand and the rest in their left. When they hold the hat, they do so with their left hand, fingers inside and thumb outside, making it easy to drop the coins one by one into the hat. When they pretend to see the first half-crown floating in the air, they let one of the coins in their right hand drop to their fingertips, and while reaching out to grab it, they make it look like they just caught it. The first coin is actually dropped into the hat, clearly visible to everyone. They then repeat this with the second coin, but when it's time to drop it into the hat, they just pretend to do so, quickly palming the coin in their right hand while dropping one of the coins hidden in their left hand into the hat. The audience hears the noise and naturally assumes it’s from the coin they just saw. This continues until all the coins in the left hand are gone. At the end, the performer pretends to grab a coin from thin air and shows the one that has been in their right hand. They toss it into the air and visibly catch it in the hat. Pouring out the coins onto a tray or into someone's lap, they ask for them to be counted, and they match the number that seems to have been gathered from the surrounding atmosphere.

Some performers, by way of bringing the trick to a smart conclusion, after they have dropped in all the coins, remark, “The hat begins to get heavy,” or make some similar observation, at the same time dipping the right hand into the hat, as if to gauge the quantity obtained; and, giving the money a shake, bring up the hand with four or five of the coins clipped breadthwise against the lowest joints of the second and third fingers. Then pretend to catch in quick succession that number of coins, each time sliding one of the coins with the thumb to the finger-tips, and tossing it into the hat.

Some performers, to wrap up the trick neatly, after dropping in all the coins, say something like, “The hat is getting heavy,” or make a similar comment. At the same time, they dip their right hand into the hat as if checking how many coins are inside. They shake the money and lift their hand with four or five coins pressed against the lower joints of their second and third fingers. Then they pretend to grab those coins in quick succession, sliding one coin at a time with their thumb to the tips of their fingers and tossing it back into the hat.

It is by no means uncommon to see a performer, after having apparently dropped two or three coins into the hat in the ordinary way, pretend to pass in one or more through the side or crown. This produces a momentary effect, but it is an effect purchased at the cost of enabling an acute spectator to infer, with logical certainty, that the coin seen in the right hand was not the same that was, the moment afterwards, heard to chink within the hat; and this furnishes a distinct clue to the secret of the trick.

It's not unusual to see a performer, after seemingly dropping a couple of coins into the hat normally, pretend to pass one or more through the side or top. This creates a brief illusion, but it comes at the expense of allowing a sharp observer to logically deduce that the coin seen in the right hand wasn't the same one that was, moments later, heard clinking inside the hat; and this gives a clear hint to the trick's secret.

207 It is obvious that, in the above form of the trick (which so far should be classed among “tricks without apparatus”), the performer cannot show the inside of his hands; and it is not uncommon to find an acute observer (particularly where the performer is guilty of the indiscretion we have just noted) so far hit upon the true explanation, as to express audibly a conjecture that the money which the performer catches is really the same coin over and over again. There is, however, a mechanical appliance known as the “money-slide,” which is designed to meet this difficulty, and to enable the performer still to catch the coin, though he has but a moment before shown that his hand is empty.

207 It’s clear that in this version of the trick (which so far should be classified as “tricks without props”), the performer can’t show the inside of their hands. It’s not unusual for a sharp observer (especially if the performer makes the careless mistake we just mentioned) to figure out the real explanation and suggest out loud that the money the performer catches is actually the same coin repeated. However, there’s a mechanical device called the “money-slide” that is designed to address this issue, allowing the performer to still catch the coin even after showing that their hand is empty just moments before.

Figs. 96, 97.

The money-slide is a flat tin tube, about eight inches in length, an inch and a quarter in width, and of just such depth as to allow a half-crown or florin (whichever coin may be used) to slip through it freely, edgeways. It is open at the top, but is closed at the lower end by a lever, acting like the lever of a shot-pouch. (See Fig. 96, which shows the external appearance of the tube, and Fig. 97, which represents, on a somewhat larger scale, a section of its essential portion.) The normal position of the lever (which works on a pivot, a) is as shown in Fig. 97, being maintained in that position by a small spring. Under such circumstances, the passage of the tube is barred by the pin d (which works through a small hole in the face of the tube); but if ac, the longer arm of the lever, be pressed down, the pin d is withdrawn, but the extreme lower end of the tube is for the moment barred by the bent end of ac. The pressure being withdrawn, the lever returns to its former condition. When required for use, four or five half-crowns are dropped into the tube from the upper end, and the tube is fastened, by a hook affixed to it for that purpose, inside the waistcoat of the performer, so that its lower end hangs just above the waistband, the lever side of the tube being next the body. If the tube be lightly pressed through the waistcoat, the longer arm of the lever is thereby208 pressed down. The pin d is lifted, and the row of half-crowns slide down to the bottom of the tube, where, however, they are arrested by the bent end of ac. As soon as the pressure is removed, the lever returns to its position. The mouth of the tube is left open, and the first of the half-crowns drops out, and would be followed by the others, but the pin, d, which at the same moment returns to its position across the tube, stops their further progress. Thus each time the lever is pressed and again released, one half-crown, and one only, drops out at the mouth of the tube.

The money-slide is a flat metal tube, about eight inches long, an inch and a quarter wide, and just deep enough to let a half-crown or florin (whichever coin is being used) slide through it easily, edgeways. It’s open at the top but closed at the bottom by a lever, which works like a shot pouch lever. (See Fig. 96, which shows the outside look of the tube, and Fig. 97, which displays, on a somewhat larger scale, a section of its key part.) The lever's normal position (which pivots on a) is as shown in Fig. 97, held there by a small spring. In this state, the tube's passage is blocked by pin d (which moves through a small hole in the tube's face); but if you press down on ac, the lever's longer arm, pin d is pulled back, even though the very bottom of the tube is momentarily blocked by the bent end of ac. When the pressure is released, the lever goes back to its original position. When ready to use, four or five half-crowns are dropped into the tube from the top, and the tube is attached inside the performer’s waistcoat using a hook made for that purpose, so that its lower end hangs just above the waistband, with the lever side of the tube next to the body. If the tube is lightly pressed through the waistcoat, the longer arm of the lever is pushed down. The pin d is lifted, and the row of half-crowns slides down to the bottom of the tube, but they are stopped there by the bent end of ac. As soon as the pressure is removed, the lever goes back to its position. The mouth of the tube remains open, and the first half-crown drops out, followed by the others, but the pin d, which at the same moment returns to its position across the tube, prevents any further coins from coming out. Therefore, each time the lever is pressed and then released, only one half-crown drops out of the tube.

The use of this appliance in the trick we have just described will be obvious. The performer, having turned up his sleeves to prove that they have no part in the matter, shows that his right hand is absolutely empty. Continuing his observations, his hand rests for a moment with a careless gesture against his waistcoat, the ball of the wrist being above and the fingers below the waistband. A momentary pressure causes a half-crown to fall into his hand. This he palms, and in due course proceeds to catch, as already described.

The use of this appliance in the trick we just mentioned will be clear. The performer, rolling up his sleeves to show they’re not involved, demonstrates that his right hand is completely empty. While continuing his remarks, his hand rests casually against his waistcoat, with the wrist above and the fingers below the waistband. A brief pressure makes a half-crown drop into his hand. He palms it and then, as already explained, goes on to catch it.

As the capacity of the slide is limited, and the same gestures frequently repeated would be likely to excite suspicion, it is best to begin the trick in the ordinary manner, and after having produced three or four coins in this way, to overhear, or pretend to overhear, a suggestion that the coin is all the while in your hand. Ostentatiously throwing the coin with which you have so far worked, into the hat, you draw special attention (not in words, but by gesture) to your empty hand (the left hand is never suspected), and then have recourse to the slide. You throw the coin thus obtained into the hat, and again show your hand empty. You produce another coin from the slide, and make this serve you for the next two or three catches, and so on, as circumstances may dictate.

As the slide can only hold so many items, and using the same moves repeatedly could raise suspicion, it's best to start the trick in a regular way. After producing three or four coins like this, you should overhear—or pretend to overhear—a suggestion that you’re holding onto the coin the whole time. By dramatically tossing the coin you’ve been using into the hat, you draw attention (without saying a word, just with your gesture) to your empty hand (since the left hand is never suspected), and then you use the slide. You throw the coin you just got into the hat and again show your hand empty. You take out another coin from the slide, using it for the next two or three catches, and continue this way as the situation requires.

The money magically caught as above may be used for the trick of the Multiplication of Money, described at page 176, the two forming a natural and effective sequence.

The money you collected as mentioned above can be used for the trick of the Multiplication of Money, explained on page 176, with the two creating a natural and effective progression.

The Vanishing Plate, or Salver.—This is a most useful and ingenious piece of apparatus. In appearance it is an ordinary japanned tin tray, of about ten inches in diameter; but it has the faculty of causing money placed upon it to disappear in a most surprising209 manner. A number of coins, collected from the company, are placed upon the salver. The performer, standing but a few feet from the spectators, openly takes them off one by one, but each, as his fingers grasp it, vanishes utterly. His sleeves (which in conjuring come in for a vast amount of undeserved suspicion) may be rigorously examined; but even though, as a concession to popular prejudice, he should bare his arm to the shoulder, the result would still be the same.

The Vanishing Plate or Tray.—This is a very useful and clever piece of equipment. It looks like an ordinary tin tray, about ten inches in diameter, but it has the ability to make money placed on it disappear in a truly surprising209 way. A collection of coins gathered from the audience is placed on the salver. The performer, standing just a few feet away from the spectators, openly takes them off one by one, but each time he touches a coin, it completely vanishes. His sleeves (which often get unfairly blamed in magic tricks) can be thoroughly inspected; however, even if he were to roll up his sleeves to his shoulders as a nod to popular suspicion, the outcome would still be the same.

Fig. 98.

A closer inspection of the salver (which the performer takes good care not to permit) would reveal the fact, that though apparently consisting, like any other, of only one thickness of metal, it is in reality made double, allowing sufficient space between its upper and under surface for the concealment of any number of coins laid singly. The centre portion of the upper surface, though apparently of a piece with the rest, is in reality moveable, though pressed upwards and kept in its place by the action of four small springs. When the performer apparently picks up a coin (which he takes care shall be on this centre portion), he presses smartly upon it, at the same moment drawing it sharply towards the outer rim. The moveable portion of the salver yielding to the pressure, the effect is as shown in the figure (Fig. 98), and the coin is shot under the outer rim, between the upper and under surface of the salver, the moveable portion rising again to its place as soon as the momentary pressure is removed. The tray is japanned in such manner that the circular lines of the pattern correspond with the outline of the moveable portion, and will bear any amount of mere ocular inspection, so long as it is not permitted to be handled.

A closer look at the tray (which the performer is careful not to let happen) would show that, although it seems to be made of just one layer of metal like any other tray, it is actually double-layered, providing enough space between the top and bottom surfaces to hide any number of coins placed individually. The center part of the top surface, while appearing to be part of the whole, is actually movable, held in place by the action of four small springs. When the performer looks like he's picking up a coin (which he makes sure is on this center part), he presses down firmly on it while quickly pulling it towards the outer edge. The movable part of the tray gives way to the pressure, resulting in what is shown in the figure (Fig. 98), and the coin is shot under the outer rim, between the top and bottom surfaces of the tray, with the movable part snapping back into place as soon as the pressure is released. The tray is painted in a way that the circular patterns align with the shape of the movable part, and it can withstand any amount of visual inspection, as long as it’s not touched.

The vanishing salver may be introduced with good effect in many210 tricks, as, for instance, that of the Multiplication of Money, above referred to, the coins to be magically added being placed upon the salver, whence they are taken off one by one, and commanded to pass into the hands of the person who holds the money. It may also be advantageously used in conjunction with the glass described at page 201, each coin, as it vanishes from the salver, being heard to drop into the glass.

The vanishing tray can be used effectively in many210 tricks, such as the Multiplication of Money mentioned earlier, where the coins to be magically added are placed on the tray. They are then taken off one by one and instructed to go into the hands of the person holding the money. It can also work well with the glass described on page 201, with each coin that disappears from the tray being heard to drop into the glass.

The “Changing” Plate.—The student has already been made acquainted with various methods of exchanging a marked coin, etc., for a substitute. There are still one or two appliances for this purpose remaining to be described, all taking the form of metal plates or trays, but greatly varying in their construction.

The “Changing” Plate.—The student is already familiar with different ways to swap a marked coin, etc., for a substitute. There are still a couple of devices for this purpose that need to be described, all of which are metal plates or trays, but they differ significantly in their design.

The first, which we only mention for the sake of completeness, as it is now superseded by later and better inventions, consists of a small circular tin tray, with a round hole or well in the centre, of about an inch and a half in diameter and a quarter of an inch in depth. The lines of the pattern are so arranged as to make this cavity as little noticeable as possible. The well is moveable, forming, in fact, a portion of a sliding piece below the tray, in which sliding piece two such wells are excavated, the one or the other in turn corresponding to the opening in the tray, according as the sliding piece is pushed backwards or forwards. When the tray is required for use, the substitute coin is placed beforehand in one of the two wells, which is then pushed out of sight, and the other brought below the opening. The borrowed coin is received on the plate, and allowed to drop into the empty well. As soon as this is done, the operator, with his forefinger, which is naturally beneath the plate, draws back the slide, and brings the other coin in sight, while the genuine one drops into his hand. The construction of the plate, though simple enough in itself, is a little difficult to explain; but as we only allude to it in order to counsel the student to avoid it, any obscurity in our description is of little importance.

The first one, which we mention simply for completeness since it’s been replaced by newer and better inventions, is a small circular tin tray with a round hole or well in the center, about an inch and a half wide and a quarter inch deep. The lines of the pattern are arranged to make this cavity as inconspicuous as possible. The well is movable, actually part of a sliding mechanism underneath the tray, where two such wells are created. Depending on how the sliding piece is pushed back or forth, one of the wells aligns with the opening in the tray. When the tray is ready to be used, a substitute coin is placed in one of the two wells, which is then pushed out of sight, while the other one is positioned below the opening. The borrowed coin is placed on the tray and falls into the empty well. Once this happens, the operator, with their forefinger naturally below the tray, pulls back the slide to reveal the other coin, while the genuine one drops into their hand. Although the design of the tray is quite simple, it’s a bit tricky to explain; however, since we mention it just to advise the student to steer clear of it, any lack of clarity in our description isn’t particularly significant.

The instrument now used for the same purpose is known as the French changing-plate, and may be described as a combination of the vanishing salver (page 209) and the multiplying money-plate (page 177). It is round, and has beneath it a flat tube similar to that of211 the multiplying plate; and it is in this tube that the substitute coins are placed. The upper surface of the plate is similar in appearance to that of the vanishing plate; but in this case the centre portion is divided across the middle, and one half only is moveable, sinking downwards to the depth of a quarter of an inch all along the dividing line, whenever pressure is applied to a particular portion of the under surface of the plate. The coins to be changed are received by the operator on this moveable portion, and immediately handed to some person to hold, the performer sloping the plate, and (apparently) pouring the coins into the hands or hat held out to receive them. In reality, in the act of sloping the plate, he depresses the moveable portion of the surface, and, as a natural consequence, the coins, instead of sliding, as they appear to do, right off the plate, slip between the upper and under surface, while the substitutes fall from the tube below into the hands of the person who is to take charge of them. The whole movement is so rapid, and the fall of the substituted coins coincides so exactly with the disappearance of the genuine ones, that the eye is completely deceived. The tray, having apparently served its purpose, is carried off by the magician or his servant, with ample opportunity to make any necessary disposition of the genuine coins.

The tool now used for the same purpose is called the French changing-plate. It can be described as a mix of the vanishing salver (page 209) and the multiplying money-plate (page 177). It’s round and has a flat tube underneath, similar to that of211 the multiplying plate; this is where the substitute coins are stored. The top of the plate looks like the vanishing plate, but the center is split in half, and only one half is movable. It sinks down about a quarter of an inch along the dividing line when pressure is applied to a specific spot on the bottom of the plate. The operator receives the coins to be changed on this movable part and immediately hands them to someone else. The performer tilts the plate and (appears to) pour the coins into the person's hands or hat. In reality, when he tilts the plate, he lowers the movable part of the surface, causing the coins to slip between the upper and lower surfaces instead of sliding off the plate. Meanwhile, the substitute coins drop from the tube below into the hands of the person receiving them. The entire movement is so quick, and the dropping of the substitute coins happens exactly as the genuine ones disappear, that it completely fools the eye. After serving its purpose, the tray is taken away by the magician or their assistant, allowing them plenty of time to organize the genuine coins.

A still later improvement is that which is known as

A later improvement is what’s known as

The Tray of Proteus.—The tray to which the inventors (Messrs. Hiam & Lane) have given the above high-sounding title, is the latest, and not the least ingenious, of the series of magical trays.

The Proteus Tray.—The tray that the inventors (Messrs. Hiam & Lane) have given this impressive name to is the newest, and certainly one of the most clever, in the lineup of magical trays.

Fig. 99.
Fig. 100.

The tray in question will not only change, but add, subtract, or vanish coins, under the very eyes of the spectators. In form it is an oblong octagon, measuring eight inches by six, and standing about three-quarters of an inch high. (See Fig. 99.) It is divided across the centre, and one half of the centre portion is moveable in the same manner as in the case of the tray last described, save that in this instance the depth between the upper and under surface of the tray being greater, this moveable portion is depressible to a proportionately greater depth. The opposite or fixed side of the tray is divided horizontally (see Fig. 100, representing a longitudinal section) into two levels or platforms, a and b, the lower, b, having a raised edge. Where the tray is to be used for the purpose of “changing,”212 the coins to be substituted are placed in a row on the upper platform, a. The genuine coins are placed by the performer, holding the tray as indicated in Fig. 99, on the moveable flap, c. Slightly lowering the opposite end of the tray, he presses the button d, thus sloping the flap c, and the coins naturally slide into b. Still keeping the flap open, he now tilts up the opposite end of the tray. The genuine coins cannot return, by reason of the raised edge of b; but the substitute coins in their turn slide out upon c, which is then allowed to return to its original position. The necessary movement, though comparatively tedious in description, is in skilful hands so rapid in execution that, where coins of the same kind are substituted—e.g., half-crowns for half-crowns—the most acute spectator cannot detect that any change has taken place. A most startling effect is produced by substituting coins of a different kind, as pence for half-crowns, the coins appearing to be transformed by a mere shake into a different metal. The change involving a double process—viz., the disappearance of certain coins and the appearance of others—it is obvious that the tray will be equally available for either process singly. Thus coins placed upon the tray may be made to instantly vanish, or, by reversing the process, coins may be made to appear where there was nothing a moment previously. In like manner, a given number of coins may be increased to a larger, or decreased (in this case really changed) to a smaller number.

The tray in question won’t just change coins, but also add, remove, or make them disappear right before the spectators' eyes. It’s shaped like an oblong octagon, measuring eight inches by six inches, and stands about three-quarters of an inch high. (See Fig. 99.) The tray is divided in the middle, with one half being movable, just like the tray described earlier, but in this case, the space between the top and bottom surfaces is deeper, allowing the movable section to be pushed down further. The other side of the tray is fixed and divided horizontally (see Fig. 100, showing a longitudinal section) into two levels or platforms, a and b, with the lower platform, b, having a raised edge. When using the tray for “changing” coins, the coins to be switched out are lined up on the upper platform, a. The performer places the real coins on the movable flap, c, while holding the tray as shown in Fig. 99. By slightly lowering the other end of the tray, he presses button d, tilting flap c so the coins slide down into b. Keeping flap c open, he then raises the opposite end of the tray. The real coins can’t roll back because of the raised edge of b, but the substitute coins slide out onto c, which he then allows to return to its original position. Although this process may sound slow when described, in the hands of a skilled performer, it happens so quickly that even the keenest observer won’t notice any change has occurred, especially when substituting coins of the same denomination—like half-crowns for half-crowns. The effect is most dramatic when swapping coins of different types, such as pence for half-crowns, making the coins seem to magically transform into a different metal with just a shake. Since the change involves both making some coins disappear and others appear, the tray can easily be used for either action alone. Therefore, coins on the tray can instantly vanish or, by reversing the process, coins can appear from what seemed to be an empty space just moments before. Similarly, a specific number of coins can be increased or decreased (in this case, genuinely changed) to a smaller amount.

This tray has not, like that last described, any additional flat tube beneath the tray, but one end of a and b is closed by a little slide, hidden beneath the edge of the tray, to allow of the money therein being extracted when necessary.

This tray doesn’t have an extra flat tube underneath, like the one described before, but one end of a and b is sealed with a small slide that's tucked beneath the edge of the tray to let you take out the money inside when needed.


213

213

CHAPTER IX.
Watch Tricks.

To indicate on the Dial of a Watch the Hour secretly thought of by any of the Company.—The performer, taking a watch in the one hand, and a pencil in the other, proposes to give a specimen of his powers of divination. For this purpose he requests any one present to write down, or, if preferred, merely to think of, any hour he pleases. This having been done, the performer, without asking any questions, proceeds to tap with the pencil different hours on the dial of the watch, requesting the person who has thought of the hour to mentally count the taps, beginning from the number of the hour he thought of. (Thus, if the hour he thought of were “nine,” he must count the first tap as “ten,” the second as “eleven,” and so on.) When, according to this mode of counting, he reaches the number “twenty,” he is to say “Stop,” when the pencil of the performer will be found resting precisely upon that hour of the dial which he thought of.

To discreetly show on a Watch Dial the Hour that someone in the audience is thinking of.—The performer takes a watch in one hand and a pencil in the other, and proposes to demonstrate his skills in divination. For this, he asks anyone present to either write down or simply think of any hour they like. Once that’s done, the performer, without asking any questions, starts tapping different hours on the dial of the watch with the pencil, asking the person who thought of the hour to mentally count the taps, starting from the hour they thought of. (So, if the hour they thought of was “nine,” they should count the first tap as “ten,” the second as “eleven,” and so on.) When they reach the number “twenty” using this counting method, they should say “Stop,” at which point the performer’s pencil will land exactly on the hour they were thinking of.

This capital little trick depends upon a simple arithmetical principle; but the secret is so well disguised that it is very rarely discovered. All that the performer has to do is to count in his own mind the taps he gives, calling the first “one,” the second “two,” and so on. The first seven taps may be given upon any figures of the dial indifferently; indeed, they might equally well be given on the back of the watch, or anywhere else, without prejudice to the ultimate result. But the eighth tap must be given invariably on the figure “twelve” of the dial, and thenceforward the pencil must travel through the figures seriatim, but in reverse order, “eleven,” “ten,” “nine,” and so on. By following this process it will be214 found that at the tap which, counting from the number the spectator thought of, will make twenty, the pencil will have travelled back to that very number. A few illustrations will make this clear. Let us suppose, for instance, that the hour the spectator thought of was twelve. In this case he will count the first tap of the pencil as thirteen, the second as fourteen, and so on. The eighth tap in this case will complete the twenty, and the reader will remember that, according to the directions we have given, he is at the eighth tap always to let his pencil fall on the number twelve; so that when the spectator, having mentally reached the number twenty, cries, “Stop,” the pencil will be pointing to that number. Suppose, again, the number thought of was “eleven.” Here the first tap will be counted as “twelve,” and the ninth (at which, according to the rule, the pencil will be resting on eleven) will make the twenty. Taking again the smallest number that can be thought of, “one,” here the first tap will be counted by the spectator as “two,” and the eighth, at which the pencil reaches twelve, will count as “nine.” Henceforth the pencil will travel regularly backward round the dial, and at the nineteenth tap (completing the twenty, as counted by the spectator) will have just reached the figure “one.”

This clever little trick relies on a simple math principle, but the secret is so cleverly hidden that it's rarely figured out. The performer only needs to keep track of the taps in their mind, calling the first “one,” the second “two,” and so on. The first seven taps can be placed on any numbers on the dial; in fact, they could even be done on the back of the watch or anywhere else, without affecting the final outcome. However, the eighth tap must always land on the number “twelve” on the dial, and from then on, the pencil must move through the numbers in reverse order: “eleven,” “ten,” “nine,” and so forth. By following this method, it will be found that at the tap that, counting from the number the spectator thought of, adds up to twenty, the pencil will have returned to that very same number. A few examples will clarify this. For instance, if the hour the spectator thought of was twelve, they will count the first tap of the pencil as thirteen, the second as fourteen, and so on. The eighth tap in this case will complete the twenty, and as per the instructions, the pencil must always land on number twelve at the eighth tap. So when the spectator, having mentally tallied to twenty, says, “Stop,” the pencil will point to that number. Let’s say the number chosen was “eleven.” In that case, the first tap will be counted as “twelve,” and the ninth (where, following the rule, the pencil will be on eleven) will total twenty. If they chose the smallest number, “one,” then the first tap is counted as “two,” and the eighth, where the pencil hits twelve, will be counted as “nine.” From there, the pencil will move backward around the dial, and at the nineteenth tap (completing the twenty, as counted by the spectator), it will land on “one.”

The arithmetical reason for this curious result, though simple enough in itself, is somewhat difficult to explain on paper, and we shall therefore leave it as an exercise for the ingenuity of our readers.

The mathematical reason for this interesting result, while straightforward in itself, is a bit challenging to explain on paper, so we'll leave it as a puzzle for our readers to figure out.

Fig. 101.

To Bend a Borrowed Watch Backwards and Forwards.—This little deception is hardly to be called a conjuring trick, but it may be introduced with good effect in the course of any trick for which a watch has been borrowed. Looking intently at the watch, as though you noticed something peculiar about it, you remark to the owner, “This is a very curious watch, sir; it is quite soft.” Then taking it (as shown in Fig. 101), with the dial inwards towards your own body, and holding it between two fingers of each hand on the back, and the thumb of each hand on the face, you bend the hands outwards, at the same time bringing the points of the fingers nearer together, immediately bringing them back to their former position. The motion may be repeated any number of times. By a curious215 optical illusion, which we are not able to explain, but which we assume to be produced in some way by the varying shadow of the fingers on the polished surface of the metal, the watch appears, to a spectator at a little distance, to be bent nearly double by each outward movement of the hands. The illusion is so perfect, that great amusement is occasionally produced by the consternation of the owner, who fancies that irreparable injury is being done to his favourite “Waltham.” If, however, his faith in your supernatural powers is so great as to resist this ordeal, you may test it even more severely by means of

To Bend a Borrowed Watch Back and Forth.—This little trick is hardly a magic act, but it can be effectively used during any trick where you've borrowed a watch. While examining the watch closely, as if you noticed something odd about it, you tell the owner, “This is a very interesting watch, sir; it's quite flexible.” Then, holding it as shown in Fig. 101, with the dial facing your body and using two fingers from each hand on the back and your thumbs on the face, you bend the hands outward while bringing the tips of your fingers closer together, then immediately return them to their original position. You can repeat this motion as many times as you want. Due to a strange optical illusion, which we can't explain but we think happens because of the way the shadows of your fingers play on the shiny surface of the metal, the watch seems to bend nearly in half with each outward move of the hands to someone watching from a distance. The illusion is so convincing that it often leads to great amusement, especially from the owner, who might worry that serious damage is being done to his beloved “Waltham.” However, if his belief in your supernatural abilities is strong enough to withstand this, you can push it even further by using

The Watch-mortar and the Magic Pistol.—The watch-mortar is an apparatus in the form of an ordinary mortar, with a pestle to match. Suggesting to the owner of the borrowed timekeeper that it wants regulating, you offer to undertake that duty for him. He probably declines, but you take no notice of his remonstrances, and, placing his watch in the mortar, bring down the pestle with a heavy thump upon it. A smash, as of broken glass, is heard, and, after sufficient pounding, you empty the fragments of the watch into your hand, to the horror of the owner. You offer to return the fragments, but he naturally objects to receive them, and insists that you restore the watch in the same condition as when it was handed to you. After a little discussion, you agree to do so, premising that you can only effect the object through the agency of fire. Fetching a loaf of bread, you place it on the table in view of the company. Then wrapping the fragments of the watch in paper, you place them in a pistol, and, aiming at the loaf, request the owner of the watch to give the signal to fire. The word is given, “One, two, three—Bang!” Stepping up to the loaf, you bring it forward to the spectators, and216 tearing it asunder, exhibit in its very centre the borrowed watch, completely restored, and bright as when it first left the maker’s hands.

The Watch Mortar and the Magic Pistol.—The watch-mortar is a device that looks like an ordinary mortar, with a matching pestle. Indicating to the owner of the borrowed watch that it needs some adjustment, you offer to take care of it for him. He likely refuses, but you ignore his objections and place his watch in the mortar, then bring down the pestle with a heavy thud on it. A crash, like breaking glass, follows, and after enough pounding, you empty the watch's shattered pieces into your hand, much to the owner's dismay. You offer to return the scraps, but understandably, he refuses to accept them and insists that you give back the watch in the same condition it was when he handed it to you. After some back-and-forth, you agree, stating that you can only achieve this with the help of fire. You fetch a loaf of bread, placing it on the table where everyone can see. Then, wrapping the watch fragments in paper, you load them into a pistol, aiming at the loaf, and ask the watch owner to signal when to fire. The countdown begins, “One, two, three—Bang!” You step up to the loaf, bring it forward for everyone to see, and tearing it apart, reveal, right in the center, the borrowed watch, completely restored and shining as brightly as when it first left the maker’s hands.

The seeming mystery is easily explained. The mortar has a moveable bottom, which allows the watch at the performer’s pleasure to fall through into his hand. There is a hollow space in the thick end of the pestle, closed by a round piece of wood lightly screwed in, which, fitting tightly in the bottom part of the mortar, is easily unscrewed by the performer, or rather unscrews itself, as he apparently grinds away at the ill-fated chronometer. In the cavity are placed beforehand the fragments of a watch, which, thus released, fall into the mortar, and are poured out by the performer into his hand, in order to show that there has been “no deception.” When the performer goes to fetch the loaf, he has already obtained possession of the watch, which, after giving it a rub upon his coat-sleeve or a bit of leather to increase its brightness, he pushes into a slit already made in the side of the loaf. When the loaf is torn asunder (which the performer takes care to do from the side opposite to that in which the opening has been made), the watch is naturally found imbedded therein.

The apparent mystery is easily explained. The mortar has a movable bottom, allowing the watch to drop into the performer’s hand at his command. There's a hollow space in the thick end of the pestle, sealed by a round piece of wood that’s lightly screwed in. This piece fits snugly in the bottom of the mortar and can be easily unscrewed by the performer, or rather it unscrews itself while he pretends to grind the unfortunate watch. In the cavity, he has already placed the pieces of a watch, which, once released, drop into the mortar and are shown to the audience in his hand, proving that there’s been “no trick.” When the performer goes to get the loaf, he has already taken the watch, which he rubs on his coat sleeve or a bit of leather to make it shine before sliding it into a slit already made in the side of the loaf. When he tears open the loaf (which he makes sure to do from the side without the opening), the watch is naturally found embedded inside.

If a regular conjuring-table is used, the loaf may be placed in readiness on the servante. The performer in this case, having got possession of the watch, and holding it secretly palmed, borrows a hat. Walking carelessly behind his table, he asks, as if in doubt, “Who lent me this hat?” holding it up with one hand, that the spectators may see that it is empty. While all eyes are thus drawn to the hat, he with the other hand forces the watch into the loaf, and then, in bringing the hat down on the table, introduces the loaf into it, after the manner of the well-known “cannon-ball” trick, to be described hereafter. The hat is then placed on the table as if empty, and the pistol fired at the hat. This little addition heightens the effect of the trick, but demands somewhat greater address on the part of the performer.

If a regular conjuring table is used, the loaf can be placed ready on the servante. In this case, the performer, having secretly palmed the watch, borrows a hat. Walking casually behind the table, he asks, as if unsure, “Who lent me this hat?” holding it up with one hand so the spectators can see that it’s empty. While everyone's attention is on the hat, he with the other hand pushes the watch into the loaf, and then, as he brings the hat down onto the table, he slips the loaf into it, like the well-known “cannon-ball” trick that will be described later. The hat is then placed on the table as if it’s empty, and the pistol is fired at the hat. This little addition enhances the effect of the trick, but requires a bit more skill from the performer.

The pistol employed, being of constant use in magical performances, will demand a special explanation. It consists of two parts, viz., an ordinary pocket-pistol, and a conical tin funnel, measuring about five inches across its widest diameter, and tapering down to a217 tube of such a size as to fit easily over the barrel of the pistol. This tube is continued inside the cone, and affords a free passage for the charge, which consists of powder only. Any object which is apparently to be fired from the pistol is pressed down between the outside of this tube and the inside of the tin cone, where it remains wholly unaffected by the explosion. The outside of the cone is japanned according to taste, the tube and the rest of the interior being always black.

The pistol used in magical performances needs some explanation. It has two main parts: a regular pocket pistol and a conical tin funnel, about five inches wide at its largest point and tapering down to a217 tube that easily fits over the pistol's barrel. This tube continues inside the cone, providing a clear path for the charge, which is just powder. Any object that seems to be fired from the pistol is placed between the outside of this tube and the inside of the tin cone, where it remains completely unaffected by the explosion. The outer surface of the cone can be finished to personal preference, while the tube and the rest of the interior are always black.

There are numerous other ways of finishing the trick, with or without the use of the pistol. The watch-mortar has discharged its duty when it has apparently reduced the borrowed watch to fragments, and has placed it in reality in the hands of the performer. The sequel of the trick, with which the mortar has nothing to do, will depend on the ingenuity of the performer and his command of other apparatus.

There are many other ways to complete the trick, whether or not you use the pistol. The watch-mortar has done its job when it seems to have shattered the borrowed watch into pieces, while in reality, it’s in the hands of the performer. What happens next in the trick, which the mortar isn’t involved in, will depend on the creativity of the performer and their skill with other tools.

There is another form of watch-mortar, which is frequently used, though to our own taste it is very inferior to that above described. It consists of a cylindrical tin box or case, about four inches high and three in diameter, open at the top, standing on a broad flat foot. Within this fits loosely another similar cylinder, of about an inch less in depth. The upper edge of this latter is turned over all round, giving the two the appearance of being both of a piece. The whole is closed by an ornamental cardboard cover, also cylindrical. If this cover be lifted lightly—i.e., without pressure—it will come off alone; but if its sides are pressed, they will clip the turned-over edge of the upper or moveable compartment, and lift this with it. In this form of the trick the borrowed watch is placed in a little bag, and the two together deposited in the upper compartment. In the mortar proper—i.e., the space between the two compartments—is placed beforehand a similar little bag, containing the broken fragments of a watch. The cover being under some pretext put on, the upper compartment is lifted off with it, and the pounding consequently falls on the prepared fragments.

There’s another type of watch mortar that's often used, but we find it to be much less appealing than the one described above. It consists of a cylindrical tin box or case, about four inches high and three inches in diameter, open at the top and resting on a broad flat base. Inside this, there’s another similar cylinder that's about an inch shorter in depth. The top edge of this inner cylinder is bent over all the way around, making it look like they’re both made from one piece. The whole thing is covered by a decorative cardboard lid, which is also cylindrical. If you lift this lid gently—meaning without applying pressure—it comes off by itself; however, if you press the sides, it will catch the bent edge of the upper or movable part and lift it along with it. In this version of the trick, the borrowed watch is put into a small bag, and both the watch and the bag are placed in the upper compartment. In the mortar itself—that is, the space between the two compartments—a similar small bag containing the broken pieces of a watch is placed beforehand. When the cover is put on for some reason, the upper compartment is removed with it, and therefore the pounding lands on the prepared fragments.

Fig. 102.

The Snuff-box Vase.—This is an apparatus of frequent use in Watch Tricks, and it may be also made available with many other articles. It is made of various sizes, from five to eight inches218 in height, and of the shape shown in Fig. 102. It consists of three parts, the cover a, the vase proper c, and a moveable portion b, the latter being made with double sides, so that it fits at once in and upon c. If a is raised without pressing its sides, it comes off alone; but if its sides are pressed in removing it, it lifts off b with it. In this compartment b is placed a small round box of tin or cardboard (from which the vase derives its name), and another box, exactly similar in appearance, is placed underneath b, inside the vase proper c. Whether, therefore, the cover is removed with or without b, the audience see apparently the same box within. The only circumstance that could possibly excite suspicion would be the greater depth of c as compared with b; and this is obviated by making the bottom of c moveable, resting on a spiral spring passing through the foot of the apparatus. When b is in the vase, the bottom of c sinks down to make way for it, but again rises by the pressure of the spring as soon as b is removed. To the eye of the spectator, therefore, the interior of the vase appears always of the same depth.

The Snuff Box Vase.—This is a device commonly used in watch tricks, and it can also be adapted for many other items. It comes in various sizes, ranging from five to eight inches218 in height, with a shape like the one shown in Fig. 102. It has three parts: the cover a, the main vase c, and a movable section b, which has double sides to fit into and on top of c. If a is lifted without pressing its sides, it comes off easily; but if the sides are pressed while removing it, it takes b off with it. Inside compartment b, there's a small round box made of tin or cardboard (which is how the vase gets its name), and another identical box is placed underneath b, inside the main vase c. So, whether the cover is taken off with or without b, the audience sees what looks like the same box inside. The only thing that might raise suspicion is the greater depth of c compared to b; however, this is fixed by making the bottom of c movable, resting on a spiral spring that goes through the base of the device. When b is in the vase, the bottom of c drops to accommodate it, but it rises back up when pressure from the spring is released after b is taken out. To the viewer, the inside of the vase always appears to be the same depth.

Some vases are made with a “clip” action in the lid, so that by slightly turning round the knob on the top three projecting teeth of metal are made to tighten upon b, and thus attach it to a, a reverse movement of the knob again releasing it. In this form of the apparatus the cover may be lifted by the knob only, without the necessity of pressing on the sides—a very decided improvement.

Some vases have a "clip" feature in the lid, which allows you to slightly turn the knob on top to tighten three metal projections onto b, securing it to a. Turning the knob in the opposite direction releases it. With this design, the cover can be lifted using just the knob, eliminating the need to press on the sides—a significant improvement.

The snuff-box vase may be used to cause the appearance, disappearance, or transformation of any article small enough to be contained in one of the boxes within. Thus, in the case of the last trick, the performer, having secretly obtained possession of the borrowed watch, may, instead of using the loaf, conclude the trick with good effect as follows:—Retiring for an instant in order to fetch the vase, he places the watch in the small box contained in c. Returning, he removes the cover219 only, thus exposing the interior of b, and requests one of the audience to examine and replace the small box therein contained. The box is seen by all to be empty, and, being replaced, the vase is again covered. The operator now fires at the vase. Having done so, he again brings it forward, but this time removes b along with the cover. The other box, which the audience take to be the same, is now exposed, and, on being examined, is found to contain the restored watch.

The snuff-box vase can be used to make any small item appear, disappear, or change into something else, as long as it fits inside one of the boxes. In the final trick, the performer quietly gets the borrowed watch and, instead of using the loaf, can finish the trick effectively like this: He steps away briefly to get the vase, places the watch in the small box inside c, and then returns. He only removes the cover, showing the inside of b, and asks a member of the audience to check and put back the small box inside. Everyone sees that the box is empty, and once it's replaced, the vase is covered again. The performer now shoots at the vase. After doing this, he brings it forward again, but this time he removes both b and the cover. The other box, which the audience believes is the same, is now shown, and when examined, it’s found to hold the restored watch.

If you do not happen to possess the watch-mortar or the magic pistol, you may make the trick equally effective without them, by using in their place the “Demon Handkerchief,” described at page 195. Having borrowed the watch, you place a substitute (which you must have ready palmed) under the handkerchief, and give it to some one to hold. Then fetching the snuff-box vase (and concealing the watch in c), you exhibit and replace the empty box in b, as above, and place the vase on the table. Taking a corner of the handkerchief, you request the person holding it to drop it when you count “three.” Then saying, “One, two, three. Pass!” you wave the handkerchief, which appears to be empty, and advancing to the table and uncovering the vase, show that the watch is now in the box.

If you don’t have the watch-mortar or the magic pistol, you can still make the trick work just as well without them by using the “Demon Handkerchief,” described on page 195. After borrowing the watch, you place a substitute (which you should have ready to palm) under the handkerchief and hand it to someone to hold. Then, after getting the snuff-box vase (and hiding the watch in c), you show the empty box in b, as mentioned above, and set the vase on the table. Taking a corner of the handkerchief, you ask the person holding it to drop it when you count to “three.” Then say, “One, two, three. Pass!” as you wave the handkerchief, which looks empty, and then move to the table, uncover the vase, and reveal that the watch is now in the box.

It is obvious that the snuff-box vase may equally well be used to produce the opposite effect—i.e., after having openly placed a watch or other article in either of the boxes, you may, by exposing in turn the other box, cause it to apparently disappear, or in like manner make it apparently change to any article previously placed in the second box.

It’s clear that the snuff-box vase can also create the opposite effect—i.e., after openly placing a watch or another item in one of the boxes, you can, by revealing the other box, make it seem like the item has disappeared, or similarly, make it appear to transform into any item that was previously placed in the second box.

The Watch Box.—This is an oblong mahogany box—size, four inches by three, and two and a half deep. To the eye of the uninitiated, it is a simple wooden box, with lock and key, and padded within at top and bottom. In reality, however, one of its sides is moveable, working on a pivot. (See Figs. 103, 104.) In its normal position, the side in question is held fast by a catch projecting from the corresponding edge of the bottom of the box. To release it, pressure in two places is required—a pressure on the bottom of the box so as to lift the catch, and a simultaneous pressure on the upper part of the moveable side of the box, thus forcing the lower part outwards, and allowing the watch or other article placed in the box, to fall into the220 hand of the performer. For this purpose the box is held as shown in Fig. 103.

The Watch Box.—This is a rectangular mahogany box—measuring four inches by three and two and a half inches deep. To someone who doesn't know better, it looks like a simple wooden box, complete with a lock and key, and padded on the inside at the top and bottom. In reality, though, one of its sides can move, pivoting on a hinge. (See Figs. 103, 104.) When it's in its normal position, this side is secured by a catch that sticks out from the edge of the bottom of the box. To release it, you need to apply pressure in two places—on the bottom of the box to lift the catch, and at the same time on the upper part of the movable side of the box, pushing the lower part outwards. This allows the watch or any other item inside to drop into the220 hand of the performer. For this action, the box is held as shown in Fig. 103.

Fig. 103.
Fig. 104.

The manner of using the box is as follows: A borrowed watch is placed in it, the owner being requested, in order to ensure its safe keeping, himself to lock it up and keep the key. The performer places the box on his table, in full view, but avails himself of the moment during which his back is turned to the audience to extract the watch, as shown in Fig. 103, and to again close the secret opening. Having thus gained possession of the watch, he can conclude the trick by causing it to re-appear in the snuff-box vase, or in any other way that he thinks proper.

The way to use the box is as follows: A borrowed watch is placed inside it, with the owner being asked to lock it themselves to ensure its safety and keep the key. The performer puts the box on their table, in plain sight, but takes advantage of the moment when their back is turned to the audience to take out the watch, as shown in Fig. 103, and to close the secret opening again. Having secured the watch, they can finish the trick by making it reappear in the snuff-box vase or however they see fit.

There is an improved watch box, the invention of the late M. Robert-Houdin, which contains, concealed in the lid, a mechanical arrangement producing a ticking sound, which may be set in motion and again stopped at the pleasure of the performer. By using this box, the watch may be heard apparently ticking inside until the very moment when it is commanded by the operator to pass to some other apparatus.

There is a revamped watch box, created by the late M. Robert-Houdin, which has a mechanical setup hidden in the lid that produces a ticking sound. This mechanism can be activated or stopped at the performer’s discretion. With this box, the watch can be heard ticking inside until the exact moment the operator decides to switch it to another device.

The Watch Target.—This is in appearance an ordinary-looking round target, of about twelve inches in diameter, and supported on an upright pillar. It is painted in concentric circles, and on the bull’s-eye is fixed a little hook. Its use is as follows: A watch having been borrowed, and smashed to pieces or made to disappear altogether,221 as before explained, the performer brings forward the target, which is either held by the assistant or placed upon the magician’s table. Producing the magic pistol, the performer proceeds to load it (visibly or invisibly, according to the circumstances of the trick) with the borrowed watch or the fragments thereof. Then, taking careful aim, he fires at the target, when the borrowed watch is seen to alight on the little hook already mentioned, whence it is removed and handed to the owner.

The Watch Target.—This looks like an ordinary round target, about twelve inches in diameter, and is supported by an upright pillar. It’s painted with concentric circles, and there’s a small hook on the bull’s-eye. Here’s how it works: After borrowing a watch and either breaking it into pieces or making it disappear, as explained earlier, the performer presents the target, which is either held by an assistant or placed on the magician’s table. Producing a magic pistol, the performer loads it (either visibly or invisibly, depending on the trick) with the borrowed watch or its fragments. Then, taking careful aim, he shoots at the target, and the borrowed watch appears on the little hook mentioned earlier, from which it is taken and handed back to the owner.

A closer inspection of the target, which is sometimes of wood, but more often of tin, japanned, would disclose the fact that the bull’s-eye is moveable, revolving perpendicularly on its own axis. It is coloured alike on both sides, and each side is provided with such a hook as already mentioned, so that whichever side of the bull’s-eye is for the time being level with the face of the target, no difference is perceptible to the spectator. There is a little projecting pin, or stop, at one point of the diameter of the bull’s-eye, which prevents its making more than a half revolution, and a little spiral spring, attached to one of the two pivots on which it moves, compels it to turn, when at liberty, always in one particular direction until stopped by the pin, so that its normal condition is to have one particular side, which we will call, for greater clearness, side a, always turned towards the face of the target. The bull’s-eye may, however, be turned round, so that the opposite side, b, is towards the face of the target, and there is a little catch which retains it as so turned; but the instant the catch is withdrawn, the action of the spring makes it fly round again to its old position. The catch is released by means of a stiff wire passing through the pillar on which the target rests, and terminating in a round disc of metal in the foot. The mode of connection between the wire and the catch varies according to the fancy of the maker; but, whatever this may be, the catch is invariably released by an upward pressure of the disc from below. If the target is held in the hand of the assistant, this is effected by the direct pressure of the fingers; but in stage performances, where the target is placed on a table, this, as indeed almost every other mechanical piece, is set in motion by the upward movement of a wire rod (known as a piston), made, by the pulling of a string, to rise through the upper surface of the table.

A closer look at the target, which is sometimes made of wood but more often made of tin with a smooth finish, reveals that the bull’s-eye is adjustable and rotates vertically around its own axis. It’s painted the same color on both sides, and each side has a hook as mentioned earlier, so whichever side of the bull’s-eye is facing the audience, there’s no noticeable difference. There’s a small pin, or stop, on one point of the bull’s-eye’s diameter that prevents it from turning more than halfway, and a tiny spiral spring attached to one of the two pivots it rotates on forces it to turn, when it’s free, always in one direction until stopped by the pin. This means that its normal position has one side, which we’ll call side a, always facing the target. However, the bull’s-eye can be turned so that the opposite side, b, faces the target, and there’s a small catch that holds it in that position. The moment the catch is released, the spring makes it snap back to its original position. The catch is freed by a stiff wire passing through the pillar supporting the target, ending in a round metal disc at the base. The way the wire connects to the catch varies by design, but regardless of the setup, the catch is always released by an upward push on the disc from below. If the target is held by an assistant, this happens through direct pressure from their fingers. But in stage performances, where the target sits on a table, this, like almost every other mechanical piece, is activated by the upward movement of a wire rod (called a piston) that is pulled by a string to rise through the table's surface.

222 When the target is required for use, the bull’s-eye is twisted round, so that the side a is turned towards the back, and in this position it is fixed by the catch. The borrowed watch is then hooked on the same side of the bull’s eye. The assistant, in bringing forward the target, takes care to keep the face turned towards the spectators, so that the watch, being behind, is unseen. At the moment of firing the pistol the disc is pressed upwards, and the catch being thus withdrawn, the bull’s-eye instantly spins round, and the side a, on which is the watch, takes the place of side b on the face of the target. The movement is so instantaneous that the quickest eye cannot follow it, and the explosion of the pistol at the same moment aids still further to baffle the vigilance of the spectators, to whom it appears as if the borrowed watch had really passed from the pistol to the face of the target.

222 When the target is needed, the bull’s-eye is rotated so that side a faces the back, and it's secured in this position by the catch. The borrowed watch is then attached to the same side of the bull’s-eye. The assistant makes sure to keep the face directed towards the audience while bringing the target forward, so the watch remains out of sight. At the moment the pistol is fired, the disc is pushed upwards, releasing the catch, causing the bull’s-eye to spin around instantly, with side a, which has the watch, replacing side b on the front of the target. This movement happens so quickly that even the fastest eye can't catch it, and the sound of the pistol firing at the same time further confuses the audience, making it seem as though the borrowed watch has truly moved from the pistol to the front of the target.

This forms an effective conclusion to the Watch-Mortar Trick, the fragments (supposed to be those of the borrowed watch) being placed in the pistol, and remaining there. Where the watch-box, above described, is used, you merely go through the motion of taking the watch out, invisibly, through the top of the box, and in like manner placing it in the pistol.

This effectively wraps up the Watch-Mortar Trick, with the pieces (believed to be from the borrowed watch) being put into the pistol and staying there. When using the watch-box mentioned earlier, you simply pretend to take the watch out, invisibly, through the top of the box, and similarly place it into the pistol.

The Mesmerised Watch. To Make any Watch a Repeater.—This is a trick which may be incidentally introduced with advantage in the course of any illusion in which a borrowed watch is employed. The performer, addressing the owner, asks carelessly, “Is this watch a repeater?” The answer is in the negative, and the performer resumes, “Would you like it to become a repeater? I have only to mesmerise it a little.” So saying, he makes pretended mesmeric passes over the watch, every now and then holding it to his ear. At last he says, “I think it will do now. Let us try.” Taking the chain between his finger and thumb, he lets the watch hang down at full length in front of him. “Come, watch, oblige me by telling us the hour that last struck.” (We will suppose that the time is twenty minutes to nine.) To the astonishment of all, the watch chimes eight successive strokes, with a clear bell-like tone. “Now the last quarter.” The watch chimes “two” and stops. “You see, sir, that under the mesmeric influence your watch becomes a capital223 repeater. Let us test its intelligence still further. Here is a pack of cards; will you oblige me by drawing one. Now, watch, tell me what card this gentleman has taken; and answer in the proper spiritualistic fashion, by three strokes for ‘yes,’ and one for ‘no.’ Do you know the card?” The watch chimes thrice. “Very good. Is it a club?” The watch chimes once. “Is it a spade?” The watch again strikes once. “Is it a heart?” The watch chimes three times. “The card is a heart, is it? Now, will you tell us what heart?” The watch chimes seven, and stops. “The watch declares that your card was the seven of hearts, sir. Is that so?” The card is turned, and shown to have been correctly named. Another card (say the queen of hearts) is now drawn. The watch names the suit as before, but when ordered to name the particular card, remains silent, and the performer therefore puts further questions. “Is the card a plain card?” Answer, “No.” “It is a court card, is it? Well, is it the knave?” Answer, “No.” “Is it the queen?” “Yes.” Other questions may in like manner be put, e.g., as to the number thrown by a pair of dice. The watch is at any moment handed for inspection, and if any suggestion of special mechanism be made, a second watch is borrowed, and mesmerised with the like result.

The Mesmerized Watch: How to Turn Any Watch into a Repeater.—This is a trick that can be casually introduced during any illusion where a borrowed watch is used. The performer, speaking to the owner, asks casually, “Is this watch a repeater?” The answer is no, and the performer continues, “Would you like it to become a repeater? I just need to mesmerize it a bit.” Saying this, he pretends to make mesmeric passes over the watch, occasionally holding it to his ear. Finally, he says, “I think it’s ready now. Let’s see.” Grabbing the chain between his finger and thumb, he lets the watch hang down fully in front of him. “Come on, watch, please tell us the hour that last struck.” (Let’s assume the time is twenty minutes to nine.) To everyone’s amazement, the watch chimes eight consecutive strokes, ringing out clearly. “Now the last quarter.” The watch chimes “two” and then stops. “You see, sir, that under the mesmeric influence, your watch is turning into an excellent 223 repeater. Let’s test its abilities even more. Here’s a deck of cards; would you please draw one? Now, watch, tell me what card this gentleman picked; respond in the right spiritualistic way, with three strokes for ‘yes’ and one for ‘no.’ Do you know the card?” The watch chimes three times. “Very good. Is it a club?” The watch chimes once. “Is it a spade?” The watch chimes once again. “Is it a heart?” The watch chimes three times. “So the card is a heart, right? Now, can you tell us which heart?” The watch chimes seven times, then stops. “The watch says that your card was the seven of hearts, sir. Is that correct?” The card is flipped over and revealed to match the guess. A different card (let’s say the queen of hearts) is drawn now. The watch identifies the suit as before, but when asked to name the exact card, it stays silent, so the performer continues with more questions. “Is the card a plain card?” Response: “No.” “It’s a court card, right? Is it the knave?” Response: “No.” “Is it the queen?” “Yes.” Additional questions can similarly be asked, e.g., regarding the number thrown by a pair of dice. The watch can be handed over for inspection at any time, and if there’s any suspicion of special mechanics, a second watch is borrowed and mesmerized with the same outcome.

Fig. 105.

The secret lies in the use of an ingenious little piece of apparatus, which is placed in the waistcoat pocket of the performer, and from which the sound proceeds. This apparatus, which is represented in Fig. 105, consists of a short brass cylinder (about an inch and a quarter in depth, and two inches in diameter), containing a small clock-bell, with the necessary striking mechanism, which is wound up beforehand with a key, after the manner of a watch. This mechanism is set in motion by pressure on the button a, the hammer continuing to strike as long as the pressure is continued, but ceasing as soon as the pressure is removed. The cylinder, which is perforated all round, in order to give free passage to the sound, is placed upright in the left pocket of the performer’s waistcoat, which should be just so tight224 around the ribs that the mere expansion of the chest shall cause the necessary pressure against the button a, the pressure ceasing when the chest is again contracted. (The placing of a playing-card in the pocket for a to rest against will be found to facilitate the arrangement.) This is the whole of the secret. In working the trick the performer has only to take care to hold the watch in a tolerably straight line between the pocket and the audience, when, the line in which the sound travels being the same as if it actually came from the watch, it will be almost impossible to detect the deception.

The secret is an ingenious little device that goes in the performer’s waistcoat pocket, from which the sound comes. This device, shown in Fig. 105, is a short brass cylinder (about an inch and a quarter deep and two inches wide) that contains a small clock bell with the necessary striking mechanism. It’s wound up beforehand with a key, similar to a watch. The mechanism is activated by pressing the button a, and the hammer keeps striking as long as the button is pressed, stopping as soon as the pressure is released. The cylinder has holes all around it to allow the sound to escape and is placed upright in the left pocket of the performer’s waistcoat, which should be tight enough around the ribs so that the chest's expansion applies pressure to the button a, stopping when the chest contracts again. (Placing a playing card in the pocket for a to rest against helps with this setup.) That’s the whole secret. While performing the trick, the performer just needs to keep the watch in a fairly straight line between the pocket and the audience. Since the sound travels in the same direction as if it were coming from the watch, it will be nearly impossible to spot the trick.

Some performers, instead of placing the apparatus in the pocket, as above described, hold it in the right hand (the wand being held in the same hand) and cause it to strike by the pressure of the fingers. This is in one sense less effective, inasmuch as you cannot show the hands empty, but it is a very much more easy and certain method, so far as the striking is concerned.

Some performers, instead of putting the device in their pocket as mentioned earlier, hold it in their right hand (along with the wand in the same hand) and make it strike by pressing with their fingers. This method is less effective in some ways because you can't show your hands empty, but it's a much easier and more reliable approach when it comes to striking.

The striking apparatus is generally made to give from fifty to sixty strokes. The performer must be careful not to prolong the trick until the whole are expended, or the unexpected silence of the watch may place him in an embarrassing position.

The striking mechanism usually produces about fifty to sixty strikes. The performer needs to be cautious not to stretch the trick out until all the strikes are used up, or the sudden silence of the watch could put them in an awkward situation.

It is hardly necessary to remark that the drawn cards are forced. Where the watch is made to disclose the numbers thrown by a pair of dice, the dice are either loaded, and thus bound to indicate certain given numbers, or a box is used in which a pair of previously-arranged dice take the place, to the eyes of the audience, of the pair just thrown.

It’s hardly worth mentioning that the drawn cards are manipulated. In cases where the watch reveals the numbers rolled by a pair of dice, the dice are either weighted to show certain specific numbers, or a box is used where a pair of pre-arranged dice replaces, to the audience's view, the pair that was actually rolled.


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CHAPTER X.
Ring Tricks.

The Flying Ring.—The majority of ring tricks depend upon the substitution at some period of the trick of a dummy ring for a borrowed one, which must be so nearly alike as not to be distinguishable by the eye of the spectator. This desideratum is secured by using wedding-rings, which, being always made plain, are all sufficiently alike for this purpose. You may account for your preference of wedding-rings by remarking that they are found to be imbued with a mesmeric virtue which renders them peculiarly suitable for magical experiments; or give any other reason, however absurd, so long as it is sufficiently remote from the true one. As, however, many ladies have a sort of superstitious objection to remove their wedding-rings, even for a temporary purpose, it will be well to provide yourself with an extra one of your own, so as to meet a possible failure in borrowing.

The Flying Ring.—Most ring tricks rely on replacing a borrowed ring with a dummy ring at some point during the trick. This dummy ring needs to look so similar that the audience can't tell the difference. This goal is achieved by using wedding rings, which are usually plain and therefore closely resemble each other. You can justify your choice of wedding rings by saying they have a unique charm that makes them especially suitable for magic tricks, or you can come up with any other reason, no matter how ridiculous, as long as it’s far from the real reason. However, since many women have a superstitious reluctance to take off their wedding rings, even temporarily, it's a good idea to have an extra one of your own just in case borrowing one doesn't work out.

There is a little appliance, exceedingly simple in its character, which may be used with advantage in many ring tricks. It consists of a plain gold or gilt ring, attached to a short piece of white or grey sewing-silk. This again is attached to a piece of cord elastic, fastened to the inside of the coat-sleeve of the performer, in such manner that, when the arm is allowed to hang down, the ring falls about a couple of inches short of the edge of the cuff. Some, in place of the elastic, use a watch barrel, attached in like manner; but the cheaper apparatus, if properly arranged, is equally effective. It is obvious that if a ring so prepared be taken in the fingers of the hand to whose sleeve it is attached, it will, on being released, instantly fly up the sleeve. This renders it a useful auxiliary in any trick in which226 the sudden disappearance of such a ring is an element, and a little ingenuity will discover numerous modes of making it so available.

There’s a simple little device that can be really useful for lots of ring tricks. It consists of a plain gold or gold-colored ring attached to a short piece of white or gray sewing silk. This is then connected to a piece of elastic cord that's secured inside the performer’s coat sleeve, so when the arm hangs down, the ring dangles a couple of inches from the cuff's edge. Some people use a watch spring instead of elastic, attached in the same way, but the cheaper setup, if done correctly, works just as well. It's clear that when a ring like this is held in the fingers of the hand connected to the sleeve, it will immediately fly up the sleeve when released. This makes it a handy tool for any trick where the sudden disappearance of the ring is part of the effect, and a bit of creativity can reveal many ways to use it effectively.

One of the simplest modes of using it is as follows: Producing a small piece of paper, to which you direct particular attention, you state that a wedding-ring wrapped up therein cannot be again extracted without your permission. A wedding-ring is borrowed in order to test your assertion, and you meanwhile get in readiness the flying ring, which is attached, we will suppose, to your left sleeve. Receiving the borrowed ring in your right hand, you apparently transfer it to the other hand (really palming it between the second and third fingers, and at the same moment exhibiting your own ring), and immediately afterwards drop the borrowed ring into the pochette on that side. You must take care so to stand that the back of your left hand may be towards the spectators, that the thread, lying along the inside of your hand, may not be seen. Spreading the paper on the table, and placing the ring upon it, you fold the paper over it, beginning with the side away from you, and pressing it so as to show the shape of the ring through it. As you fold down a second angle of the paper you release the ring, which forthwith flies up your sleeve. You continue to fold the paper, and repeating your assertion that no one can take the ring out without your permission, hand it to a spectator, in order that he may make the attempt. On opening the paper he finds that you were very safe in asserting that he could not take the ring out of it, inasmuch as the ring is no longer in it.

One of the simplest ways to use it is like this: Take a small piece of paper that you focus on, and say that a wedding ring wrapped inside cannot be taken out without your permission. A wedding ring is borrowed to test your claim, while you prepare the flying ring, which we’ll assume is attached to your left sleeve. As you receive the borrowed ring in your right hand, you seem to transfer it to your other hand (actually palming it between your second and third fingers, while showing your own ring), and then you quickly drop the borrowed ring into the pochette on that side. Make sure to stand in a way that the back of your left hand faces the audience, so they can’t see the thread lying inside your hand. Spread the paper on the table and place the ring on it, then fold the paper over the ring, starting from the side away from you, pressing it to show the shape of the ring through it. As you fold down the second corner of the paper, let go of the ring, which will fly up your sleeve. Keep folding the paper and, while repeating your statement that no one can take the ring out without your permission, hand it to a spectator so they can try. When they open the paper, they discover you were right that they couldn’t take the ring out, because it’s no longer there.

Having gained possession of the borrowed ring, you may reproduce it in a variety of different ways, according to your own fancy and invention. For instance, you may, retiring for a moment, bring forward the “snuff-box vase” described at page 217, meanwhile wrapping the ring in a piece of paper similar to that you have already used, and placing it in one of the boxes contained in the vase. Bringing the vase forward to the audience, you open it in such manner as to exhibit the other box, in which, after it has been duly examined, you request one of the audience to place the empty paper. Closing the vase, and placing it on the table, you fire your pistol at it, or merely touch it with your wand, and order the ring to return to the paper. You now open the vase at the compartment containing the first box. Drawing particular attention to the fact that you have227 not even touched the box, you again offer it for inspection. The folded paper, which the audience take to be the same, is duly found therein, and, on being opened, is shown to contain the borrowed ring.

Once you have the borrowed ring, you can recreate it in various ways based on your own creativity and style. For example, you might take a moment to present the “snuff-box vase” mentioned on page 217, while wrapping the ring in a piece of paper like the one you’ve used before and placing it in one of the boxes inside the vase. When you show the vase to the audience, you open it in such a way that reveals the other box. After it has been properly examined, you ask one of the audience members to put the empty paper inside. You then close the vase and set it on the table, firing your pistol at it or simply tapping it with your wand, commanding the ring to go back to the paper. You now open the vase at the section with the first box. Pointing out that you haven't even touched the box, you offer it for inspection again. The folded paper, which the audience believes to be the same, is found inside, and when opened, it reveals the borrowed ring.

A similar effect, on a smaller scale, may be produced by privately placing the paper containing the ring in the inner compartment of the “plug-box” (described at page 192), and requesting one of the audience to place the original folded paper in the outer compartment.

A similar effect, on a smaller scale, can be achieved by privately placing the paper with the ring in the inner compartment of the “plug-box” (described at page 192), and asking one of the audience members to put the original folded paper in the outer compartment.

To Pass a Ring from the one Hand to either Finger of the other Hand.—This is a very old and simple trick, but it has puzzled many, and comes in appropriately in this place, as affording another illustration of the use of the “flying ring.” The only additional preparation consists of a little hook, such as is used to fasten ladies’ dresses, sewn to the trouser of the performer just level with the fingers of his right hand when hanging by his side, but a little behind the thigh, so as to be covered by the coat-tail. Borrowing a wedding-ring, the performer receives it in his right hand, immediately transferring it in appearance (as in the last trick) to his left hand. Showing in place of it the flying ring, which is already in his left hand, he drops the right hand to his side, and slips the borrowed ring on the little hook. Then remarking, “You all see this ring, which I have just borrowed. I will make it invisibly pass to my right hand, and on to whichever finger of that hand you may please to select.” Here he waves his right hand with an indicative gesture, thus indirectly showing that he has nothing therein, and again lets the hand fall carelessly by his side. As soon as the finger is chosen, he slips the borrowed ring upon the end of that particular finger, immediately closing the hand so as to conceal it, and holds out the hand at arm’s length in front of him. Then saying, “One, two, three! Pass!” he releases the flying ring, and, opening both hands, shows that the left is empty, and that the borrowed ring has passed to the selected finger of the right hand.

To Transfer a Ring from One Hand to Any Finger of the Other Hand.—This is a very old and simple trick, but it has baffled many, and it's fitting to include here as it gives another example of the “flying ring.” The only extra setup involves a small hook, like those used to fasten women's dresses, sewn to the performer’s pants just level with the fingers of his right hand when hanging by his side, but slightly behind the thigh to keep it covered by the coat-tail. After borrowing a wedding ring, the performer takes it in his right hand and immediately pretends to transfer it to his left hand (like in the previous trick). While showing the flying ring, which is already in his left hand, he lets his right hand drop to his side and discreetly hooks the borrowed ring onto the little hook. Then he says, “You all see this ring I've just borrowed. I will make it invisibly pass to my right hand, and to whichever finger of that hand you choose.” He waves his right hand to indicate he has nothing in it, letting it fall casually at his side. Once a finger is chosen, he slips the borrowed ring onto that finger, quickly closes his hand to hide it, and holds out the hand at arm's length in front of him. Then he says, “One, two, three! Pass!” and releases the flying ring, revealing both hands to show the left is empty and the borrowed ring has moved to the selected finger of the right hand.

The hook may, if preferred, be dispensed with, the ring being simply dropped into the pochette on the right side, and again taken from thence when required.

The hook can be left out if you want; just drop the ring into the pochette on the right side, and take it out from there when you need it.

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To Pass a Ring through a Pocket-handkerchief.—This is but a juvenile trick, but we insert it for the sake of completeness. It is performed by the aid of a piece of wire, sharpened to a point at each end, and bent into the form of a ring. The performer, having this palmed in his right hand, borrows a wedding-ring and a handkerchief (silk for preference). Holding the borrowed ring between the fingers of his right hand, he throws the handkerchief over it, and immediately seizes with the left hand, through the handkerchief, apparently the borrowed ring, but really the sham ring, which he adroitly substitutes. He now requests one of the spectators to take hold of the ring in like manner, taking care to make him hold it in such a way that he may not be able to feel the opening between the points, which would betray the secret. The ring being thus held, and the handkerchief hanging down around it, a second spectator is requested, for greater security, to tie a piece of tape or string tightly round the handkerchief an inch or two below the ring. The performer then takes the handkerchief into his own hand, and, throwing the loose part of the handkerchief over his right hand, so as to conceal his mode of operation, slightly straightens the sham ring, and works one of the points through the handkerchief, so getting it out, and rubbing the handkerchief with his finger and thumb in order to obliterate the hole made by the wire in its passage. He now palms the sham ring, and produces the real one, which has all along remained in his right hand, requesting the person who tied the knot to ascertain for himself that it has not been tampered with.

How to Pass a Ring through a Handkerchief.—This is just a simple trick, but we include it for completeness. It’s done using a piece of wire, sharpened to a point at both ends and shaped like a ring. The performer secretly holds this in his right hand, borrows a wedding ring, and uses a handkerchief (preferably silk). He holds the borrowed ring between his right fingers, throws the handkerchief over it, and quickly grabs, through the handkerchief, what appears to be the borrowed ring, but is actually the fake ring he cleverly replaces it with. He then asks one of the spectators to hold the ring in the same way, making sure they grasp it in a way that prevents them from feeling the opening between the points, which would reveal the trick. With the ring held this way and the handkerchief draped around it, he asks another spectator, for added security, to tie a piece of tape or string tightly around the handkerchief an inch or two below the ring. The performer then takes the handkerchief in his own hand, throws the loose part over his right hand to cover his actions, slightly straightens the fake ring, and works one of the points through the handkerchief, pulling it out, and rubbing the handkerchief with his fingers to erase the hole made by the wire. He then hides the fake ring and shows the real one, which has been in his right hand the whole time, inviting the person who tied the knot to check that it hasn’t been tampered with.

To Pass a Ring through the Table.—This also is a juvenile trick, but a very good one. The necessary apparatus consists of an ordinary glass tumbler, and a handkerchief to the middle of which is attached, by means of a piece of sewing-silk about four inches in length, a substitute ring of your own. Borrowing a ring from one of the company, you announce that it will at your command pass through the table; but as the process, being magical, is necessarily invisible, you must first cover it over. Holding the handkerchief by two of the corners, you carelessly shake it out (taking care to keep the side on which is the suspended ring towards yourself), and wrapping in it apparently the borrowed, but really the suspended229 ring, you hand it to one of the company, requesting him to grasp the ring through the handkerchief, and to hold it securely.

To Pass a Ring through the Table.—This is also a simple trick, but a really good one. The setup you need is a regular glass tumbler and a handkerchief that has, sewn to its middle with a piece of thread about four inches long, a substitute ring of your choice. After borrowing a ring from someone in the group, you announce that it will magically pass through the table. Since this magical process is invisible, you need to cover it up first. Hold the handkerchief by two corners and casually shake it out (making sure to keep the side with the suspended ring facing you), and while wrapping what seems to be the borrowed ring, but is actually the suspended ring, you hand it to one of the guests, asking them to grip the ring through the handkerchief and hold it tightly.

A word of caution may here be given, which will be found more or less applicable to all magical performances. Have the room in which you perform as brilliantly lighted as you please, but take care so to arrange the lights, or so to place yourself, that all the lights may be in front of you, and none behind you. The trick we are now describing affords a practical illustration of the necessity for this. If you have any light behind you, the handkerchief, as you shake it to show that it is not prepared, will appear semi-transparent, and the spectators will be able to see the suspended ring dangling behind it. For a similar reason, you should always endeavour to have a dark background for your performances, as any thread, or the like, which you may have occasion to secretly use will then be invisible at a short distance, while against a light background—e.g., a muslin curtain or white wall-paper—it would be instantly noticeable.

A word of caution should be mentioned here, which applies to all magic performances. Make sure the room where you perform is brightly lit, but arrange the lights or position yourself so that all the lights are in front of you and none are behind you. The trick we’re discussing is a practical example of why this is important. If you have any light behind you, the handkerchief you shake to show it’s not prepared will look semi-transparent, and the audience will be able to see the suspended ring behind it. For the same reason, you should always aim to have a dark background for your performances, as any thread or similar item you may need to use secretly will be invisible at a short distance, while it would be very noticeable against a light background—e.g., a muslin curtain or white wall.

But to return to our trick: we left one of the spectators tightly holding the suspended ring, covered by the folds of the handkerchief. Your next step is to request the audience to choose at what particular spot in the table the ring shall pass through it. When they have made the selection, you place the tumbler upon the spot chosen, and request the person having charge of the ring to hold his hand immediately over the glass, around which you drape the folds of the handkerchief. “Now,” you say, “will you be kind enough, sir, to drop the ring in the glass.” He lets go, and the ring falls with an audible “ting” into the glass. “Are you all satisfied,” you ask, “that the ring is now in the glass?” The reply will generally be in the affirmative; but, if any one is sceptical, you invite him to shake the glass, still covered by the handkerchief, when the ring is heard to rattle within it.

But to get back to our trick: we left one of the spectators holding the suspended ring tightly, hidden by the folds of the handkerchief. Your next step is to ask the audience to choose where on the table the ring should pass through. Once they've made their choice, you place the tumbler on the selected spot and ask the person holding the ring to keep their hand just above the glass, which you cover with the handkerchief. “Now,” you say, “would you be so kind as to drop the ring into the glass?” They release it, and the ring falls with a clear “ting” into the glass. “Are you all convinced,” you ask, “that the ring is now in the glass?” The answer will usually be yes; however, if anyone is doubtful, you invite them to shake the glass, still covered by the handkerchief, and the ring can be heard rattling inside.

Your next step is to borrow a hat, which you take in the hand which still retains the genuine ring, holding it in such manner that the tips of the fingers are just inside the hat, the ring being concealed beneath them. In this condition you can freely exhibit the inside of the hat, which is seen to be perfectly empty. You now place the hat under the table, mouth upwards, relaxing as you do so the230 pressure of the fingers, and allowing the ring to slide gently down into the crown. Leaving the hat under the table, which should be so placed that the spectators cannot, as they stand or sit, see quite into the crown, you take hold of the extreme edge of the handkerchief, and saying, “One, two, three! Pass!” jerk it away, and request some one to pick up the hat, and return the borrowed ring to the owner.

Your next step is to borrow a hat, which you hold in the hand that still has the genuine ring, keeping it in a way that the tips of your fingers are just inside the hat, hiding the ring beneath them. In this position, you can easily show that the inside of the hat is completely empty. Next, you place the hat under the table, with the opening facing up, and as you do this, you loosen your grip with your fingers, letting the ring slide gently into the crown. Leave the hat under the table, making sure it’s positioned so that the spectators can’t fully see inside the crown from where they’re standing or sitting. Then, grab the edge of the handkerchief, and say, “One, two, three! Pass!” as you quickly pull it away, asking someone to pick up the hat and return the borrowed ring to its owner.

We have given the trick in its simplest form, but it is obvious that it is capable of any amount of variation as regards the circumstances under which the vanished ring is again found. The “plug-box” (page 192) or the “nest of boxes” (page 197) may be here made available, the performer placing the ring where it is to be afterwards found, during his momentary absence in search of the necessary apparatus.

We’ve presented the trick in its simplest form, but it’s clear that it can be varied in many ways depending on how the vanished ring is ultimately discovered. The “plug-box” (page 192) or the “nest of boxes” (page 197) can be used here, with the performer placing the ring where it will be found later, during their brief absence while looking for the required props.

To Pass a Ring invisibly upon the Middle of a Wooden Wand, the Ends being held by two of the Spectators.—In this trick, the handkerchief prepared (with the ring attached) for the purpose of the last illusion may be again employed, though some use for the present purpose a handkerchief with a ring stitched in one corner. In our own opinion, the suspended ring is preferable, and we shall describe the trick accordingly. The only other requisite will be the magic wand, or any short stick or rod of such diameter that a finger-ring may slip easily upon it. Having borrowed a ring, you proceed to wrap it (in reality the substitute) in the handkerchief, and hand it to some one to hold. The borrowed ring, of course, remains in your hand. Picking up with your other hand your wand, you transfer it to the hand containing the ring. Taking hold of it by the extreme end, you pass the ring over it, which a very little practice will enable you to do without the smallest difficulty. You then say, “I am about to order the ring which Mr. So-and-so is holding, to leave the handkerchief, and pass on to this wand. For greater security, I will ask two of the gentlemen present to hold the ends. Will some one volunteer for the purpose?” Two candidates having come forward, you place yourself facing the person who is holding the ring in the handkerchief, at the same time sliding your hand with the ring to the centre of the wand, and holding the latter in a horizontal231 position across your body. You now invite the two volunteers each to take hold of one end, pretending to be very particular that the wand should be perfectly horizontal, this giving you an excuse for keeping your hand upon it, sliding it backwards and forwards, and raising now one end, now the other, till the level is such as to satisfy your correct eye. When at last you are satisfied, you ask the person in charge of the ring to step forward, so as to bring it immediately above the wand, over which you immediately spread the pocket-handkerchief, letting the edges fall on either side of the wand. As soon as the wand is covered, you can of course remove your hand. Then, taking hold of one corner of the handkerchief, you request the holder of the ring to let go at the word “Three,” and saying, “One, two, three—Pass!” draw away the handkerchief sharply, which, brushing against the genuine ring, will set it revolving rapidly, as though it had just passed on to the wand.

To secretly pass a ring onto the middle of a wooden wand, while two spectators hold the ends.—In this trick, you can use the prepared handkerchief (with the ring attached) from the last illusion again, although some people prefer using a handkerchief with a ring stitched in one corner for this purpose. We believe the suspended ring is a better option, and we'll describe the trick accordingly. The only other thing you'll need is a magic wand or a short stick or rod that’s thick enough for a finger-ring to slide easily onto it. After borrowing a ring, you wrap it (actually a substitute) in the handkerchief and hand it to someone to hold. The borrowed ring will stay in your hand. Then, with your other hand, pick up the wand and transfer it to the hand holding the ring. Grabbing it by the very end, you slide the ring over it, which with a little practice, you can do without any trouble. You then say, “I’m about to make the ring that Mr. So-and-so is holding leave the handkerchief and slide onto this wand. For added security, I’ll ask two gentlemen to hold the ends. Who would like to volunteer?” Once two people step up, you position yourself facing the person holding the ring in the handkerchief, while sliding your hand with the ring to the center of the wand and holding it horizontally across your body. You invite the two volunteers to hold each end, pretending to be very particular about keeping the wand perfectly horizontal, giving you a reason to keep your hand on it, sliding it back and forth, raising one end or the other until it’s leveled to your standard. Once you're satisfied, you ask the person holding the ring to step forward, bringing it right above the wand, over which you immediately spread the handkerchief, letting the edges fall on each side of the wand. Once the wand is covered, you can remove your hand. Then, grabbing one corner of the handkerchief, you instruct the person holding the ring to let go on the word “Three,” and saying, “One, two, three—Pass!” pull the handkerchief sharply away, which will brush against the genuine ring, making it spin quickly as if it had just transferred onto the wand.

Some professors introduce the “flying ring” in the performance of this trick, thus dispensing altogether with the handkerchief. The slight variations in working thereby rendered necessary will readily suggest themselves without further explanation.

Some professors introduce the “flying ring” in this trick, completely eliminating the need for the handkerchief. The slight variations in execution that this requires will easily come to mind without any more explanation.

The Magic Ball and Rings.—This is a recent improvement on the trick last described. The performer borrows three rings, which in this instance, as the trick does not depend upon a substitution, may be of any pattern. They should not, however, be too large, for which reason ladies’ rings are preferable. These he places, or requests the owners to place, in the “Davenport cabinet” (see page 195), the “watch-box” (see page 219), or any other apparatus which will enable him secretly to get possession of them. He then brings in and hands for inspection an ebony ball, an inch and a half to two inches in diameter (through which is bored a hole of three-eighths of an inch in diameter), and a brass rod about two feet in length, with a knob at each end, and of such a thickness as to pass freely through the ball. Both are closely scrutinized, and admitted to be fair and solid. In sight of all he unscrews one of the knobs, and places the ball upon the rod, throwing a handkerchief over it, and requesting two of the audience to hold the ends. Passing his hand under the handkerchief, he orders the ball to drop into his hand, when his command is instantly obeyed.232 He next orders the rings to pass from the cabinet, and to take the place of the ball on the brass rod. On removing the handkerchief, the rings are seen on the rod, and the cabinet, on examination, is found empty.

The Magic Ball and Rings.—This is a new twist on the trick described earlier. The performer borrows three rings, which, since the trick doesn't rely on a substitution, can be of any design. They shouldn't be too large, so it's better to use ladies' rings. The performer puts them in the “Davenport cabinet” (see page 195), the “watch-box” (see page 219), or any other setup that allows him to secretly take them. He then presents an ebony ball, about one and a half to two inches in diameter (with a hole of three-eighths of an inch in diameter), and a brass rod about two feet long, with a knob at each end, and thick enough to easily slide through the ball. Both items are carefully examined and confirmed to be solid and genuine. In front of everyone, he unscrews one of the knobs, places the ball on the rod, covers it with a handkerchief, and asks two audience members to hold the ends. He puts his hand under the handkerchief and commands the ball to drop into his hand, which it does immediately. 232 He then instructs the rings to come out of the cabinet and take the ball's place on the brass rod. When he lifts the handkerchief, the rings are seen on the rod, and after checking, the cabinet is found to be empty.

Fig. 106.

The secret consists in the use of two balls, one of which (that handed round for inspection) has no speciality. The other is divided into two parts, the section being vertically through the bore. (See Fig. 106.) These two parts fit closely together, and being (as is also the solid ball) carved in concentric circles parallel to the opening, the division is not readily noticeable. The two halves, a and b, are hollowed out to contain the rings, each having three slots or mortices cut at right angles to the direction of the hole through the ball. When the performer retires to fetch the ball and rod, he places the borrowed rings in these slots. When the two halves of the ball are brought together, the rings will encircle the hole through the centre, and the rod, when passed through the ball, will pass through the rings also. The performer places the trick ball, thus prepared, under his waistband, or in one of his pochettes, and, returning, hands for inspection the brass rod and the solid ball. While these are being examined, he palms the trick ball, and in passing over the rod apparently the ball which has just been examined, adroitly substitutes that which contains the rings. After having thrown the handkerchief over the rod, he passes under it his hand, still containing the solid ball. It is an easy matter to pull asunder the hollow ball, and this in turn is palmed, and the solid ball passed to the end of the fingers, before the performer, again uncovering his hand, which he brings out palm downward, carelessly throws down the solid ball, as being that which he has just taken off the rod. This is the only part of the trick which requires any special dexterity, and any difficulty which may be at first found will quickly disappear with a little practice.233 When the ball comes apart, the rings are, of course, left on the rod.

The secret lies in using two balls, one of which (the one passed around for inspection) is normal. The other ball is split into two parts, with the cut running vertically through the center. (See Fig. 106.) These two halves fit tightly together, and since they are also carved in concentric circles parallel to the opening, the division is hard to notice. The two halves, a and b, are hollowed out to hold the rings, each having three slots or cutouts made at right angles to the direction of the hole through the ball. When the performer steps away to get the ball and rod, he places the borrowed rings in these slots. When the two halves of the ball are put together, the rings will encircle the hole in the center, and the rod, when passed through the ball, will also go through the rings. The performer keeps the prepared trick ball tucked under his waistband or in one of his pochettes and, upon returning, shows the brass rod and the solid ball for inspection. While they are being examined, he palms the trick ball and, while passing over the rod, cleverly swaps it with the one that has the rings. After draping a handkerchief over the rod, he passes his hand under it, still holding the solid ball. It's easy to pull apart the hollow ball, which is then palmed, while the solid ball is transferred to the tips of his fingers. When the performer reveals his hand palm down and casually drops the solid ball, it appears to be the one he just removed from the rod. This is the only tricky part of the performance that requires some skill, but any initial difficulties will fade with a bit of practice.233 When the ball separates, the rings are, of course, left on the rod.

A further improvement may be made in the trick by using a sword with a rapier blade in place of the brass rod. The trick is not only more effective in appearance, as the sword appears to cut through the ball, but the tapering shape of the blade makes the trick much easier to perform, as you have only to draw the ball down towards the hilt, when the swell of the blade will force the two halves of the ball apart, leaving them naturally in your hand. It is best in this case simultaneously to let the solid ball drop from your palm to the floor. This draws all eyes downwards, and gives you ample opportunity to drop the halves of the trick ball into your secret pocket. In this form of the trick you, of course, hold the sword yourself in the ordinary manner, and you may, if you prefer it, dispense with the handkerchief, using your hand only to mask the operation, at once stepping forward, as the ball drops to the ground, and saying, “Will the owners be kind enough to identify their rings?”

A further improvement can be made to the trick by using a sword with a rapier blade instead of the brass rod. The trick not only looks better, with the sword seeming to slice through the ball, but the tapered shape of the blade makes it much easier to perform. You just need to pull the ball down toward the hilt, and the curve of the blade will cause the two halves of the ball to separate, leaving them naturally in your hand. It's best to let the solid ball drop from your palm to the floor at the same time. This directs everyone's attention downward and gives you plenty of time to drop the halves of the trick ball into your hidden pocket. In this version of the trick, you hold the sword in the usual way, and if you prefer, you can skip the handkerchief, using your hand only to cover the action. Step forward as the ball hits the ground and say, “Will the owners be kind enough to identify their rings?”

To Pass a Borrowed Ring into an Egg.—This is an effective conclusion to a ring trick. The necessary apparatus consists of two wooden egg-cups, inside one of which, at the bottom, is cut a mortice or slot just large enough to receive one-half the circumference of a lady’s ring, and to hold it in an upright position. The second egg-cup has no speciality, being, in fact, merely a dummy, designed to be handed to the audience for inspection. An ordinary button-hook, or a piece of wire bent into the shape of a button-hook, completes the preparations.

To Pass a Borrowed Ring into an Egg.—This is a great way to wrap up a ring trick. You will need two wooden egg cups. In one of them, at the bottom, cut a slot that’s just big enough to hold half the circumference of a lady’s ring and keep it standing upright. The second egg cup doesn’t have any special features; it’s just a decoy, meant to be given to the audience for them to examine. An ordinary button hook or a piece of wire bent to resemble a button hook will finish off your setup.

We will assume that the performer has, in the course of one or other of the tricks already described, secretly obtained possession of a borrowed ring, which the audience believe still to remain in some place or apparatus in which they have seen it deposited. The operator, retiring for an instant, returns with a plate of eggs in one hand, and the dummy egg-cup in the other. The special egg-cup, with the ring already in the mortice, is meanwhile placed either under his waistband, or in one or other of his pochettes, so as to be instantly get-at-able when required. Placing the eggs on the table, he hands round the egg-cup for inspection, that all may observe that234 it is wholly without preparation, and in turning to place the egg-cup on the table, he substitutes for it the one which contains the ring, but which the audience naturally believe to be that which they have just examined.

We’ll assume that the performer has, during one of the tricks already described, secretly gotten hold of a borrowed ring, which the audience thinks is still in the place or device where they saw it. The performer briefly steps away and returns with a plate of eggs in one hand and the fake egg-cup in the other. The special egg-cup, with the ring already hidden inside, is either tucked under his waistband or in one of his pockets, so it's easy to grab when needed. After putting the eggs on the table, he passes around the egg-cup for everyone to check, ensuring they see that it’s completely empty. As he turns to put the egg-cup down on the table, he swaps it out for the one that has the ring inside, which the audience naturally believes is the one they just examined.

Bringing forward the plate of eggs, the performer requests the company to choose whichever they please. While they are making their selection, he carefully turns back his sleeves, showing indirectly that his hands are empty. Taking the chosen egg with the tips of his fingers, and showing it on all sides, to prove that there is no preparation about it, he says, “Now, ladies and gentlemen, you have seen me place the ring which this lady has kindly lent me in ‘so-and-so’” (according to the place where it is supposed to be). “You have selected, of your own free choice, this particular egg among half-a-dozen others. I am about to command the ring to leave the place where it now is, and to pass into the very centre of this egg. If you think the egg is prepared in any way, it is open to you even now to choose another. You are all satisfied that the egg has not been tampered with? Well, then, just observe still that I have nothing in my hands. I have merely to say, ‘One, two, three! Pass!’ The ring is now in the egg.” At the word, “Pass,” the performer taps one end of the egg with his wand, just hard enough to crack it slightly. “Dear me,” he says; “I did not intend to hit quite so hard; but it is of no consequence.” Stepping to the table, he places the egg, with the cracked end downwards, in the prepared egg-cup, using just sufficient pressure to force the egg well down upon the ring, the projecting portion of which is thereby forced into the egg. The egg being already cracked, a very slight pressure is sufficient. Bringing forward the egg in the cup, the hook already mentioned, and a table-napkin, he taps the top of the egg smartly with his wand, so as to crack it, and, offering the hook to the owner of the ring, requests her to see whether her property is not in the egg. The ring is immediately fished out, and being wiped upon the napkin, is recognized as that which was borrowed. The apparatus in which it was originally placed is, on being examined, found empty.

Bringing forward the plate of eggs, the performer asks the audience to pick whichever they like. While they choose, he carefully rolls up his sleeves, subtly showing that his hands are empty. Picking up the chosen egg with his fingertips and displaying it all around to prove it's not prepared, he says, “Now, ladies and gentlemen, you've seen me place the ring that this lady has kindly lent me in ‘so-and-so’” (wherever it’s supposed to be). “You have selected this specific egg from a selection of half a dozen. I’m about to make the ring leave its current location and pass into the very center of this egg. If you think the egg is rigged in any way, you can still pick another one. Are you all satisfied that the egg hasn’t been tampered with? Well then, just notice that I have nothing in my hands. I just need to say, ‘One, two, three! Pass!’ The ring is now in the egg.” At the word “Pass,” the performer lightly taps one end of the egg with his wand, just hard enough to crack it slightly. “Oh dear,” he says; “I didn’t mean to hit quite so hard; but it’s not a big deal.” Moving to the table, he places the egg, with the cracked end down, into the prepared egg cup, using enough pressure to push the egg down onto the ring, which is now pushed into the egg. Since the egg is already cracked, only a little pressure is needed. Bringing the egg in the cup, along with the hook mentioned earlier and a table napkin, he taps the top of the egg sharply with his wand to crack it open, and offers the hook to the owner of the ring, asking her to check if her ring is inside the egg. The ring is quickly pulled out, and after being wiped on the napkin, it’s recognized as the borrowed one. The device where it was originally placed is found to be empty upon examination.

The Magic Rose.—This little apparatus affords the means for a graceful termination of a ring trick. A ring having been made to235 disappear in any of the modes before described, the operator, retiring for a moment, returns with a rose-bud in his hand. Advancing to the owner of the ring, he requests her to breathe on the flower. As she does so, the bud is seen slowly to open, and in the centre of the new-blown flower is found the missing article.

The Enchanted Rose.—This little device allows for a stylish conclusion to a ring trick. After making a ring disappear using any of the methods previously mentioned, the performer steps away for a moment and comes back holding a rosebud. Approaching the ring's owner, he asks her to blow on the flower. As she does, the bud gradually opens, revealing the missing ring in the center of the newly blossomed flower.

The idea of the flower, warmed into bloom under a fair lady’s breath, is so poetical that it seems quite a pity to be obliged to confess that the rose is an artificial one, made chiefly of tin, and that its petals, normally held open by the action of a spring, are, when the flower is first brought on, kept closed by a sliding ring or collar upon the stalk, again re-opening as this collar is drawn back by the magician’s fingers.

The image of a flower blooming under a lovely lady’s breath is so poetic that it feels unfortunate to admit that the rose is actually artificial, mostly made of tin, and that its petals, which usually open up with a spring mechanism, are initially kept closed by a sliding ring or collar on the stem, reopening as the magician pulls back this collar with his fingers.


236

236

CHAPTER XI.
Handkerchief Tricks.

We have already discussed a good many tricks in which handkerchiefs are employed in one way or another. The present chapter will be devoted to those feats in which the handkerchief forms the sole or principal object of the illusion. Where practicable, the handkerchief used should always be a borrowed one (so as to exclude the idea of preparation); and in borrowing it will occasionally be necessary to use a little tact in order to make certain of getting the right article for your purpose, without admitting, by asking specially for any particular kind of handkerchief, the limited extent of your powers. Thus, whenever the trick depends upon the substitution of a handkerchief of your own, it is necessary that the borrowed handkerchief should be of a plain white, so as not to have too marked an individuality, and of a small size, so as to be easily palmed or otherwise concealed. These desiderata you may secure, without disclosing that they are desiderata, by asking if a lady will oblige you with a handkerchief, ladies’ handkerchiefs being invariably white, and of small size. If a lace handkerchief (which would be inconveniently distinguishable from your substitute) is offered, you may pretend to fear the risk of injuring the lace, and on that account to prefer a less valuable article. In “knot” tricks, on the contrary, you should, if possible, use a silk handkerchief, which, from its softer nature, will be found more tractable than cambric.

We have already covered a lot of tricks that use handkerchiefs in different ways. This chapter will focus on those performances where the handkerchief is the main focus of the illusion. Whenever possible, you should always borrow the handkerchief (to eliminate any idea of preparation), and when borrowing, it might take a bit of skill to make sure you get the right one without revealing that you have limited abilities by asking for a specific type of handkerchief. Therefore, whenever the trick relies on swapping out your own handkerchief, the borrowed one should be plain white, so it doesn’t stand out too much, and small enough to be easily hidden or palmed. You can achieve this without making it obvious that these are your preferences by asking a lady for a handkerchief, as they are usually white and small. If someone offers you a lace handkerchief (which would be too noticeable compared to your substitute), you can feign concern about damaging the lace and say you prefer something less delicate. In “knot” tricks, on the other hand, you should aim to use a silk handkerchief, as its softer texture makes it easier to work with than cambric.

We will begin by describing a couple of little “flourishes,” which may be incidentally introduced in the performance of more ambitious tricks, and which will sometimes be found useful in occupying the attention of the audience for a moment or two while some necessary237 arrangement is being made behind the scenes for the purpose of the principal illusion. The first we will call—

We will start by describing a few small “flourishes” that might be casually included in the performance of more elaborate tricks. These can be helpful for grabbing the audience's attention for a moment or two while some essential237 arrangements are made behind the scenes for the main illusion. The first we will call—

Fig. 107.

The Handkerchief that cannot be Tied in a Knot.—The performer, having borrowed a handkerchief, pulls it this way and that, as if to ascertain its fitness for the purpose of the trick. Finally twisting the handkerchief into a sort of loose rope, he throws the two ends one over the other, as in the ordinary mode of tying, and pulls smartly; but instead of a knot appearing, as would naturally be expected, in the middle of the handkerchief, it is pulled out quite straight. “This is a very curious handkerchief,” he remarks; “I can’t make a knot in it.” The process is again and again repeated, but always with the same result.

The Handkerchief That Can't Be Tied in a Knot.—The performer borrows a handkerchief and pulls it around to check if it's suitable for the trick. After twisting it into a loose rope, he throws the two ends over each other like you would when tying a knot and pulls sharply; but instead of a knot forming in the middle of the handkerchief, it just gets pulled straight. “This is a really strange handkerchief,” he says; “I can’t tie a knot in it.” He repeats the process again and again, but it always ends the same way.

The secret is as follows:—The performer, before pulling the knot tight, slips his left thumb, as shown in Fig. 107, beneath such portion of the “tie” as is a continuation of the end held in the same hand. The necessary arrangement of the hands and handkerchief, though difficult to explain in writing, will be found quite clear upon a careful examination of the figure.

The secret is as follows:—The performer, before pulling the knot tight, slips his left thumb, as shown in Fig. 107, underneath the part of the "tie" that continues from the end held in the same hand. The necessary arrangement of the hands and handkerchief, though tricky to explain in writing, will become clear with a careful look at the figure.

The Handkerchief that will not Burn.—This may be used either separately or in conjunction with the foregoing. The performer, taking the handkerchief, asks if it will burn. The owner naturally answers that she has no doubt it will. “Suppose we try,” says the performer; and taking the handkerchief by two of its corners,238 he draws it three or four times obliquely upwards across the flame of a lighted candle, without its receiving the slightest injury.

The Fireproof Handkerchief.—This can be used either on its own or along with the previous tricks. The performer takes the handkerchief and asks if it will catch fire. The owner naturally replies that she's sure it will. “Let's find out,” says the performer; and holding the handkerchief by two of its corners,238 he waves it three or four times diagonally upwards through the flame of a lit candle, without it getting even the slightest damage.

There is really no mystery whatever about this, although, to those who have never tried it, it appears very surprising, and the spectators are generally persuaded that you have somehow substituted another handkerchief, made incombustible by chemical means. The performer has only to take care not to allow the handkerchief to rest motionless while in contact with the flame. In the act of drawing the handkerchief over the candle, the contact of any given part with the flame is so momentary, that it is barely warmed in its passage. You must, however, take care not to attempt this trick with a handkerchief which has been scented, as any remains of spirit about it would cause it to ignite instantly, and place you in a rather awkward position.

There’s really no mystery to this, though it might seem surprising to those who haven’t tried it, and onlookers often believe you somehow switched out the handkerchief for one that’s made fireproof with chemicals. The performer just needs to ensure that the handkerchief doesn’t stay still while touching the flame. As you move the handkerchief over the candle, each part only contacts the flame for a split second, so it barely gets warm. However, you need to be careful not to attempt this trick with a scented handkerchief, as any leftover alcohol would make it catch fire instantly, putting you in a pretty tricky situation.

Where a substitute handkerchief has to be burnt in the course of a trick, it is by no means a bad plan to exhibit with the substitute (which the audience take to be the original) this phenomenon of supposed incombustibility, and appearing to grow careless from repeated success, at last to allow the handkerchief to catch fire. If you can by such means induce the audience to believe, for the time being, that the burning was an accident, you will the more astonish them by the subsequent restoration.

Where a substitute handkerchief needs to be burned during a trick, it’s a smart move to show off this so-called fireproof quality of the substitute (which the audience thinks is the original). As you continue to succeed, act more casual until you eventually let the handkerchief catch fire. If you can make the audience believe the burning was accidental, you’ll impress them even more with the later restoration.

The Vanishing Knots.—For this trick you must use a silk handkerchief. Twisting it rope-fashion, and grasping it by the middle with both hands, you request one of the spectators to tie the two ends together. He does so, but you tell him that he has not tied them half tight enough, and you yourself pull them still tighter. A second and a third knot are made in the same way, the handkerchief being drawn tighter by yourself after each knot is made. Finally, taking the handkerchief, and covering the knots with the loose part, you hand it to some one to hold. Breathing on it, you request him to shake out the handkerchief, when all the knots are found to have disappeared.

The Disappearing Knots.—For this trick, you'll need a silk handkerchief. Twist it like a rope and hold it by the middle with both hands. Ask one of the spectators to tie the two ends together. They do so, but you say they haven't tied it tight enough, so you pull it even tighter. A second and then a third knot are made the same way, with you pulling the handkerchief tighter after each knot. Finally, take the handkerchief and cover the knots with the loose part, then hand it to someone to hold. After breathing on it, ask them to shake out the handkerchief, and all the knots will have vanished.

When the performer apparently tightens the knot, he in reality only strains one end of the handkerchief, grasping it above and below the knot. This pulls that end of the handkerchief out of its twisted239 condition in the knot into a straight line, round which the other end of the handkerchief remains twisted; in other words, converts the knot into a slip-knot. After each successive knot he still straightens this same end of the handkerchief. This end, being thus made straight, would naturally be left longer than the other which is twisted round and round it. This tendency the performer counteracts by drawing it partially back through the slip-knot at each pretended tightening. When he finally covers over the knots, which he does with the left hand, he holds the straightened portion of the handkerchief, immediately behind the knots, between the first finger and thumb of the right hand, and therewith, in the act of covering over the knots, draws this straightened portion completely out of the slip-knot.

When the performer seems to tighten the knot, he's actually just pulling one end of the handkerchief, gripping it above and below the knot. This straightens that end of the handkerchief out of its twisted state in the knot, leaving the other end still twisted around it; in other words, it turns the knot into a slipknot. After each successive knot, he straightens this same end of the handkerchief again. Because this end is made straight, it naturally ends up longer than the other end, which is wrapped around it. The performer offsets this by pulling it partially back through the slipknot each time he pretends to tighten it. When he finally covers the knots with his left hand, he holds the straightened part of the handkerchief, positioned right behind the knots, between the first finger and thumb of his right hand, and while covering the knots, he completely pulls this straightened part out of the slipknot.

Some performers (among whom we may mention Herrmann) make this feat still more effective by borrowing half-a-dozen handkerchiefs, and allowing them all to be tied end to end by the spectators. After each knot the professor pretends to examine it, asking, “What kind of a knot do you call this, sir?” and meanwhile pulls it into the required condition. The joined handkerchiefs are then placed one upon the other on a chair or in a hat, and are immediately afterwards shown to be separate.

Some performers (including Herrmann) make this trick even more impressive by using half a dozen handkerchiefs and letting the audience tie them end to end. After each knot, the professor pretends to check it and asks, “What do you call this kind of knot, sir?” while secretly adjusting it. The connected handkerchiefs are then stacked on a chair or placed in a hat, and are quickly shown to be separate.

The student must be on his guard against one particular kind of knot, which cannot be pulled into the condition above-named. We allude to the very common mode of tying, in which the two ends to be tied are placed side by side, and tied simultaneously in a single knot. The employment of this kind of knot may generally be avoided by holding the two ends to be tied at a tolerably wide angle, so that they cannot very well be drawn parallel. If, however, a spectator appears determined to tie this particular knot, it is better to allow him to do so, and then remark, “As the knots are tied by yourselves, ladies and gentlemen, you can have little doubt that they are all fair. However, for the greater satisfaction of all present, I will ask some gentleman to be good enough to untie one of them, which will give a fair criterion of the time it would take, in a natural way, to get rid of the remainder.” So saying, you hand the knot in question to be untied, and in subsequently giving the ends to be again joined, select a more accommodating person to tie them.

The student needs to be cautious about a specific type of knot that can't be adjusted as mentioned earlier. We're referring to the common way of tying where the two ends being tied are placed next to each other and tied together in a single knot. You can usually avoid this type of knot by holding the two ends at a decent angle, so they can't easily be pulled parallel. However, if someone insists on tying this particular knot, it's better to let them proceed and then say, “Since you all tied the knots yourselves, you can be confident they are fair. But to ensure everyone is satisfied, I'll ask someone to kindly untie one of them, which will show how long it naturally takes to get rid of the others.” After saying this, you hand over the knot to be untied and when it's time to tie the ends again, choose someone who is more helpful.

240 As the tricks which follow mainly depend upon the substitution of a second handkerchief, we shall in the first place describe two or three modes of effecting the necessary exchange, with and without the aid of apparatus.

240 Since the tricks that follow rely largely on swapping in a second handkerchief, we'll first explain a couple of ways to make this exchange happen, both with and without using any tools.

To Exchange a borrowed Handkerchief for a Substitute.—Have the substitute handkerchief tucked under your waistcoat, at the left side, so as to be out of sight, but within easy reach of your hand. Receive the borrowed handkerchief in your right hand, and as you ‘left wheel’ to your table to place it thereon, tuck it under your waistband on the right side, and at the same moment pull out with the other hand the substitute, and throw the latter on the table. The substitute handkerchief (which the audience take to be the real one) being thus left in full view, you may, without exciting any suspicion, retire with the genuine one, and dispose of it as may be necessary for the purpose of your trick.

Exchanging a Borrowed Handkerchief for a Replacement.—Keep the substitute handkerchief tucked under your waistcoat on the left side, hidden but easily accessible. Take the borrowed handkerchief in your right hand, and as you turn to your table to place it down, tuck it under your waistband on the right side. At the same time, use your other hand to pull out the substitute and place it on the table. Since the substitute handkerchief (which the audience will think is the real one) is now visible, you can discreetly leave with the actual one and dispose of it as needed for your trick.

You may, however, sometimes desire merely to gain possession of a borrowed handkerchief, or to place it within reach of your assistant, without yourself leaving the apartment. In this case the substitute may be placed as before, but on your right side. Receiving the borrowed handkerchief in your right hand, you hold it loosely hanging down between the second and third, or third and fourth fingers. This leaves the thumb and first finger free, and with these you quickly pull down, as you turn to go to your table, the substitute. You thus have both handkerchiefs held openly in the same hand; but both being of like appearance, the audience take them to be one only. Passing behind your table, you let fall the borrowed handkerchief upon the servante, and throw the substitute upon the table.

You might sometimes just want to grab a borrowed handkerchief or put it within reach of your assistant without leaving the room. In this case, you can position the substitute like before, but on your right side. Take the borrowed handkerchief in your right hand, letting it hang loosely between your second and third, or third and fourth fingers. This keeps your thumb and first finger free, and with those, you quickly pull down the substitute as you turn to head to your table. Now you have both handkerchiefs openly held in the same hand, but since they look alike, the audience thinks it's just one. As you pass behind your table, let the borrowed handkerchief drop onto the servante and toss the substitute onto the table.

A very audacious and generally successful mode of effecting the change is as follows: Taking the handkerchief, and pressing it into a moderately small compass, the performer says, “Now I am going to make this handkerchief disappear. There are plenty of ways of doing it. I’ll show you one or two. This is Professor De Jones’s method. He just turns round, so, to put the handkerchief on the table” (performer turns accordingly), “but meanwhile the handkerchief is gone. Ah, you were too sharp for me! You saw me poke it up my sleeve? Quite right, here it is. I see Professor De241 Jones’s method wouldn’t have any chance with you. This is Professor De Smith’s method.” He turns as before. “The handkerchief is gone again. Not far, though, for here it is” (turning back breast of coat and showing handkerchief). “Professor De Robinson does it like this.” (He turns away for an instant, and tucks handkerchief under waistband.) “Here it is, you see, under the waistcoat.” (Pulls it out again.) “Now, you may very well imagine that, if I had intended to have used any of these methods myself, I shouldn’t have explained them. You will find that my plan is quite a different one. When I want to get rid of a handkerchief, I just take it to the candle, and set it on fire, so” (holds handkerchief over candle, and sets light to it); or, “I place it in such and such a piece of apparatus,” etc., etc.

A bold and generally effective way to make a change is as follows: The performer takes the handkerchief and folds it into a moderately small size, saying, “Now I'm going to make this handkerchief disappear. There are plenty of ways to do it. I’ll show you one or two. This is Professor De Jones’s method. He just turns around, so, to place the handkerchief on the table” (the performer turns accordingly), “but in the meantime, the handkerchief is gone. Ah, you caught me! You saw me tuck it up my sleeve? That's right, here it is. I see Professor De241 Jones’s method wouldn’t work on you. This is Professor De Smith’s method.” He turns as before. “The handkerchief is gone again. Not too far, though, because here it is” (turning back the front of his coat and showing the handkerchief). “Professor De Robinson does it like this.” (He briefly turns away and tucks the handkerchief under his waistband.) “Here it is, see, under the waistcoat.” (He pulls it out again.) “Now, you might think that if I had planned to use any of these methods myself, I wouldn't have explained them. You’ll find that my approach is quite different. When I want to get rid of a handkerchief, I simply take it to the candle and set it on fire, like this” (holding the handkerchief over the candle and lighting it); or, “I place it in this specific piece of equipment,” etc., etc.

On the first two occasions of showing where the handkerchief is placed, the performer really does exhibit the genuine article; but at the third pretended feint, though he really does tuck it under his waistband, he pulls out again, not the same handkerchief, but a substitute, placed there beforehand. The action is so natural, and so much in harmony with his previous acts, that not one in a hundred will suspect that he has thereby really changed the handkerchief.

On the first two times he shows where the handkerchief is, the performer actually displays the real one; but during the third fake-out, even though he does tuck it under his waistband, he takes out, not the same handkerchief, but a substitute that he had hidden there earlier. The action looks so natural and fits so well with what he's done before that hardly anyone will suspect he's actually swapped the handkerchief.

The mode of exchange last described, ingenious as it is, has one serious drawback—viz., that it gives the audience a clue which it is better that they should not have, and suggests suspicions and conjectures which, but for such a clue, they would never have thought of. To an acute mind, even such a slight hint as this will suggest enough to destroy half the effect of any subsequent trick in which a similar process of disappearance or exchange is employed, and even in the case of less intelligent spectators it will tend to diminish the prestige of the performer, by showing by what shallow artifices an illusion may be produced.

The method of exchange just described, clever as it is, has one major downside—it gives the audience a hint that they shouldn't have and raises suspicions and theories that they wouldn't have come up with otherwise. For someone sharp, even a small hint like this will suggest enough to take away half the impact of any later trick that uses a similar method of disappearing or exchanging. Even for less savvy viewers, it tends to lower the performer’s status by revealing how simple tricks can create an illusion.

There are two or three pieces of apparatus for effecting the exchange of a handkerchief by mechanical means. A very good one is that known as “The Washerwoman’s Bottle,” in conjunction with which we will take the opportunity of describing the very effective trick known as

There are a couple of devices for swapping a handkerchief using mechanical methods. One of the best is called “The Washerwoman’s Bottle,” and along with that, we'll take the chance to describe the very impressive trick known as

The Locked and Corded Box.—The “Washerwoman’s242 Bottle” is a simple and inexpensive piece of apparatus, of frequent use in handkerchief tricks. In appearance it is an ordinary black bottle, save that it has a rather shorter neck and wider mouth than the generality of such vessels. In reality it is made of tin, japanned black, and is divided by a vertical partition, commencing just below the mouth, into two compartments. One of these has a bottom, but the other has none, forming, in fact, a mere passage through the bottle. In the bottomed compartment is placed beforehand a piece of cambric, or dummy handkerchief, also about a glassful of port wine, or some other liquor of similar colour.

The Locked and Corded Box.—The “Washerwoman’s242 Bottle” is a simple and affordable tool, commonly used in handkerchief tricks. It looks like an ordinary black bottle, except it has a shorter neck and wider opening than most such bottles. Made of tin with a black finish, it has a vertical divider that starts just below the opening, creating two sections. One section has a bottom, while the other doesn’t, essentially making it a passage through the bottle. In the bottomed section, there’s a piece of cambric or a dummy handkerchief, along with about a glassful of port wine or a similar colored liquor.

The performer borrows a lady’s handkerchief. Pretending that he is obliged to fetch some other article for the purpose of the trick, he says, as if struck by a sudden thought, “But I mustn’t run away with the handkerchief, or you might fancy that I had tampered with it in some way. Where shall I put it? Ah! the very thing. Here’s a bottle belonging to my washerwoman, which she left behind her the last time she came. It’s sure to be clean, for she is a most particular old lady. We often hear of a lady carrying a bottle in her handkerchief, why not a handkerchief in a bottle? First, madam, please see that I have not exchanged the handkerchief. Right, is it? Well, then, here goes for the bottle.” Standing behind his table, in full view of the spectators, he stuffs the borrowed handkerchief into the bottle, ramming it down with his wand. In so doing, he grasps the bottle with his left hand around its base, which he rests on the edge of the table nearest to himself, in such manner that about half the bottom projects over the edge. When he places the handkerchief in the bottle, he places it in the open compartment, and pushes it with his wand right through the bottle into his left hand, if he desires to obtain personal possession of it, or lets it fall on the servante, if it is to be carried off by his assistant. We will assume, for our present purpose, that he simply pushes it into his left hand, whence it is easy to get rid of it into the pochette on the same side. He now places the bottle in the centre of the table, but in doing so hears, or pretends to hear, a sound of liquid therein. “I hope the bottle was empty,” he remarks, “I never thought about that.” He shakes the bottle, and the liquid therein is distinctly audible. “Good gracious!” he exclaims, “I’m afraid I have ruined the handkerchief.”243 He now pours the liquid into a glass, and then, putting his fingers inside the bottle, he pulls out the prepared piece of cambric, which, of course, is wet and stained. Leaving it hanging from the neck of the bottle, he advances to the owner, and expresses his regret at the accident; but the audience, who begin to suspect that the pretended mistake is really a part of the trick, insist that the handkerchief shall be restored in its original condition. The performer feigns embarrassment, but at last says, “Well, ladies and gentlemen, I cannot dispute the justice of your observations. The handkerchief certainly ought to be returned clean as at first, and as my washerwoman has been the cause of the mischief, she is the proper person to repair it. Will you excuse my stopping the entertainment for an hour or two, while I go to fetch her? You object to the delay? Well, then, I will bring her here by spiritualistic means, à la Mrs. Guppy. Pardon me one moment.” He retires, and returns with a square box and the magic pistol. Placing the box on the table, and making a few mysterious passes over it with his wand, he says, in his deepest tones, “Spirit of Mrs. Tubbs, I command you to pass into this box, there to remain until you have repaired the damage which your carelessness has caused.” Then taking the saturated cambric from the bottle, he crams it into the pistol, and, retiring to the farthest portion of the stage, fires at the box. Laying down the pistol, and taking up the box, he advances to the owner of the handkerchief, and, offering her the key, begs her to unlock it. She does so, expecting to find her handkerchief, but finds instead a second box. This, and four or five others in succession, are opened, and in the innermost is found the handkerchief, folded and ironed, as if newly returned from the wash.

The performer takes a woman’s handkerchief. Acting as if he needs to get something else for the trick, he suddenly exclaims, “But I can’t just run off with the handkerchief, or you might think I did something to it. Where should I put it? Ah! Here’s an empty bottle that my washerwoman left behind last time she was here. It has to be clean—she's very particular about that. We often hear about a lady carrying a bottle in her handkerchief; why not a handkerchief in a bottle? First, madam, please check that I haven’t swapped the handkerchief. Is it right? Great, then here goes into the bottle.” Standing behind his table, clearly visible to the audience, he shoves the borrowed handkerchief into the bottle with his wand. While doing this, he holds the bottle with his left hand around its base, resting it on the edge of the table so that about half of the bottom hangs over. When he puts the handkerchief in the bottle, he pushes it into the open section and then uses his wand to shove it right through into his left hand if he wants to keep it, or lets it drop onto the servante if it’s meant for his assistant. For now, let’s say he just pushes it into his left hand, where it’s easy to slide it into the pochette on the same side. He then places the bottle in the center of the table, but as he does, he hears—or pretends to hear—liquid inside. “I hope the bottle was empty,” he says, “I didn’t think about that.” He shakes the bottle, and the liquid inside is clearly audible. “Oh no!” he exclaims, “I think I’ve ruined the handkerchief.”243 He pours the liquid into a glass and, sticking his fingers inside the bottle, pulls out the prepared piece of fabric, which is, of course, wet and stained. Leaving it hanging from the neck of the bottle, he approaches the owner and expresses his regret at the mishap. However, the audience starts to suspect that this supposed accident is part of the trick, and they insist that the handkerchief should be restored to its original condition. The performer pretends to be embarrassed but finally says, “Well, ladies and gentlemen, I can’t argue with your points. The handkerchief should definitely be returned clean, and since my washerwoman caused the problem, she’s the right person to fix it. Would you mind if I took a little break from the show to fetch her? You’d rather not wait? Alright then, I’ll bring her here using spiritual magic, à la Mrs. Guppy. Just give me a moment.” He steps away, then returns with a square box and a magic pistol. Setting the box on the table and making a few dramatic gestures with his wand, he speaks in a deep voice, “Spirit of Mrs. Tubbs, I command you to enter this box and stay there until you’ve repaired the damage your carelessness caused.” Then he takes the soaked fabric from the bottle, shoves it into the pistol, and moves to the back of the stage to shoot at the box. He sets the pistol down, picks up the box, walks to the handkerchief’s owner, and hands her the key, asking her to unlock it. She does so, expecting to see her handkerchief, but instead finds a second box. This box and four or five more are opened in succession, and in the innermost one, she discovers the handkerchief, neatly folded and pressed, as if it just came back from the wash.

With the reader’s present knowledge, it would be almost superfluous to tell him that the operator avails himself of his momentary absence to damp and fold the handkerchief, and to press it with a cold iron. (If a hot one can be obtained, so much the better, but there is no absolute necessity for it.) Having done this, he places it in the square nest of boxes (see page 197), and closing them returns to the audience. The magic pistol has already been described (page 216). Where an assistant is employed, the performer merely pushes the handkerchief through the bottle on to the servante, as already244 mentioned, and the assistant, passing behind the table on some pretext or other, carries it off, and places it in the nest of boxes, while the audience are occupied by the pretended discovery of wine in the bottle. The trick in this form appears even more surprising, inasmuch as the performer does not leave the stage at all, and the box is brought in and placed on the table by a person who, to all appearance, has never had the handkerchief, even for a moment, in his possession.

With the reader’s current knowledge, it would be almost unnecessary to mention that the performer takes advantage of his brief absence to wet and fold the handkerchief, then press it with a cold iron. (If a hot one is available, that's even better, but it's not absolutely required.) After doing this, he places it in the square box set (see page 197), and after closing it, he goes back to the audience. The magic pistol has already been explained (page 216). When an assistant is involved, the performer simply pushes the handkerchief through the bottle onto the servante, as mentioned earlier244, and the assistant, slipping behind the table for some reason or another, takes it away and puts it in the box set, while the audience is distracted by the fake discovery of wine in the bottle. This version of the trick seems even more astonishing since the performer never leaves the stage, and the box is brought in and set on the table by someone who, to all appearances, has never had the handkerchief, even for a second, in his possession.

In order still further to heighten the effect of the trick, the handkerchief is sometimes caused to reappear in the innermost of a nest of boxes which has throughout the entertainment been hung up in full view of the audience, and the outermost of which is carefully corded and sealed. The performer in this case, after firing at the supposed box (for the audience are, of course, ignorant that there are more than one), directs his assistant to take it down from its elevated position, and to place it on the table. Cutting the cords, and opening the box, he produces from it another, corded like the first. From this second box, he produces another smaller box, of an ornamental character (the square nest of boxes above mentioned). This he hands to the owner of the handkerchief, with a request that she will open it, and the result is as already described.

To further enhance the effect of the trick, the handkerchief sometimes reappears in the innermost box of a set that has been displayed for the audience to see throughout the performance, with the outer box carefully corded and sealed. In this case, after pretending to shoot at the supposed box (since the audience doesn’t know there’s more than one), the performer instructs his assistant to take it down from its high position and place it on the table. After cutting the cords and opening the box, he finds another box, corded like the first. From this second box, he takes out a smaller decorative box (the square set of boxes mentioned earlier). He hands this box to the owner of the handkerchief and asks her to open it, resulting in what has already been described.

The trick in this form is one of the very best exhibited on the stage, and yet, as indeed are most of the best feats, it is performed by the simplest possible means. The outer box is an ordinary deal box, bonâ fide sealed and corded, but the second, though equally genuine in appearance, has no bottom, and the cord, though apparently quite complete, does not cross beneath the box, which is, in fact, nothing more than a wooden shell, or cover, with a lid to it. When the performer takes out this second box and places it on the table, he tilts it forward for a moment, and in that moment slips the nest of boxes (which is placed in readiness on the servante), underneath it, immediately afterwards raising the lid, and taking out the nest, as if it had all along been contained therein.

The trick in this form is one of the best showcased on stage, and like many of the greatest feats, it uses the simplest methods. The outer box is an ordinary wooden box, bonâ fide sealed and tied, but the second box, while looking just as real, has no bottom. The cord, although it seems complete, doesn’t actually go underneath the box; it's just a wooden shell with a lid. When the performer takes out this second box and places it on the table, he tilts it forward for a moment and in that brief moment, he slips the set of boxes (which is ready on the servante) underneath it, and then raises the lid to take out the set as if it had always been inside.

It only remains to explain the mode by which the nest of boxes, with the handkerchief therein, is placed upon the servante. Some performers employ the rather too transparent expedient of making the assistant bring in, then and there, a small round table, behind which, on a servante of its own, is placed the closed nest of245 boxes. A better plan, where the size of the nest permits, is to have it placed open, before the performance commences, on the servante of the centre table. It is then an easy matter for the performer or his assistant (as the case may be) to slip in the folded handkerchief, and close the boxes, the remainder of the trick proceeding as already described.

It just needs to be explained how the nest of boxes, with the handkerchief inside, is placed on the servante. Some performers use the somewhat obvious trick of having an assistant bring in a small round table, behind which is a servante holding the closed nest of boxes. A better approach, if the nest size allows, is to have it set open on the servante of the center table before the performance starts. Then, it's easy for the performer or their assistant to slip in the folded handkerchief and close the boxes, with the rest of the trick going as previously described.

Some performers use for the purpose of this trick a special mechanical table, which, by means of a lifting apparatus, itself introduces the nest of boxes through a trap into the bottomless box, without the necessity of tilting the latter.

Some performers use a special mechanical table for this trick, which, through a lifting device, automatically brings the nest of boxes through a trap into the bottomless box without needing to tilt it.

Fig. 108.

The Reversible Canister.—This is another piece of apparatus more particularly designed for changing a handkerchief, though equally available for many other exchanges. In appearance it is an ordinary cylindrical canister, closed with a cap, and similar in shape to those in which tea is kept, but of smaller size, being only five to six inches in height. In reality, however, that which appears to be the body of the canister is a mere tube, within which slides up and down an inner canister, which is made double-headed, i.e., like two shallow canisters placed bottom to bottom. (See Fig. 108.) The pattern of the outer tube is alike at top and bottom, so that whether the combined canister is as shown in the figure, with compartment a uppermost, or turned upside down, with compartment b pushed into view, the appearance to the eye of the spectator is the same. The canister is prepared by placing beforehand in one or other of the compartments, say b, a piece of cambric, as much like a lady’s handkerchief as possible. Compartment a is then pushed upwards, as shown in the figure. Borrowing a handkerchief, the performer requests the owner to place it for safe keeping in the canister, which he brings forward for that purpose. As he turns to replace it on the table, he takes advantage of the moment during which his back is towards the spectators to push down a (thus pushing out b at the opposite end of the tube), and at the same time to turn over the canister, which, when246 placed on the table, will still look as shown in the figure, but will have, in reality, b uppermost. Presently taking out the prepared cambric, which the spectators take to be the handkerchief, he burns or otherwise disposes of it, to be subsequently reproduced by the simple process of again reversing the canister.

The Reversible Container.—This is another piece of equipment specifically designed for switching a handkerchief, but it can also be used for many other exchanges. It looks like an ordinary cylindrical canister with a cap, similar in shape to those used for tea, but smaller, standing only five to six inches tall. In reality, what appears to be the body of the canister is just a tube, inside which slides an inner canister that has two open ends, like two shallow canisters placed bottom to bottom. (See Fig. 108.) The pattern on the outer tube is the same at both the top and bottom, so whether the combined canister is positioned as shown in the figure, with compartment a on top, or flipped upside down with compartment b in view, it looks the same to spectators. The canister is prepared by placing a piece of cambric, resembling a lady’s handkerchief as closely as possible, into one of the compartments, say b. Then compartment a is pushed upwards, as shown in the figure. The performer asks the owner of a handkerchief to place it safely in the canister, which he presents for that purpose. As he turns to put it back on the table, he takes advantage of the moment when his back is to the spectators to push down a (thus pushing out b at the opposite end of the tube) and at the same time flips the canister over. When it’s placed on the table, it still looks as shown in the figure, but now b is actually on top. He then takes out the prepared cambric, which the spectators believe is the handkerchief, and burns or disposes of it, only to subsequently reproduce it by simply reversing the canister again.

This is a simple and inexpensive piece of apparatus, but it will not bear examination, and the process of reversing is a little awkward. For these reasons it is rarely employed by professional performers, who for the same purpose more generally use what is known as

This is a basic and low-cost piece of equipment, but it doesn't hold up under scrutiny, and the process of reversing is somewhat clumsy. For these reasons, it's rarely used by professional performers, who more commonly use what's known as

The Burning Globe.—This is a hollow brass globe of four to six inches in diameter, mounted on a foot of about the same height, and surmounted by a cap or lid, so that it forms, in fact, a spherical canister. A raised band, also of brass, passes horizontally round the globe; and this, which is apparently a mere ornament, is really designed to conceal the fact that the globe is divided into two separate hemispheres, revolving one upon the other. Within this external globe is an inner one, divided into two compartments, each having a separate opening, and so contrived that each of these openings in turn is made to correspond with the opening of the external globe, according as the upper hemisphere of the latter is moved round from right to left, or vice versâ. The globe is, like the canister, prepared by placing a substitute handkerchief, or piece of cambric, in one or other of the inner compartments, and then bringing the other compartment into correspondence with the external opening. A borrowed handkerchief being openly placed in the empty compartment, the performer, by merely giving a half turn to the foot of the apparatus, brings the compartment containing the substitute uppermost, the action being so little noticeable that it may be used with impunity before the very eyes of the audience.

The Fiery Globe.—This is a hollow brass globe about four to six inches in diameter, set on a foot of similar height, and topped with a cap or lid, making it effectively a spherical canister. A raised brass band goes all the way around the globe; while it looks like just an ornament, it actually hides the fact that the globe is split into two distinct hemispheres that rotate independently. Inside this outer globe is an inner one, which has two compartments, each with its own opening, designed so that each of these openings aligns with the opening of the outer globe, depending on whether the upper hemisphere of the outer globe is turned from right to left or vice versâ. The globe, like the canister, is prepared by placing a substitute handkerchief or a piece of cambric in one of the inner compartments, then aligning the other compartment with the external opening. When a borrowed handkerchief is clearly placed in the empty compartment, the performer can simply make a half turn of the apparatus's foot, bringing the compartment with the substitute to the top. This movement is so subtle that it can be done right in front of the audience without anyone noticing.

The Transformed Handkerchief.—This is one of Herrmann’s favourite tricks, and affords a very good example of his style of working. The performer comes forward, requesting the loan of a lady’s handkerchief. While it is being procured, he produces from the hair or whiskers of one of the spectators a lemon, which he carelessly thrusts under somebody’s nose in order to prove its genuineness.247 (This lemon, which, of course, was palmed, is a prepared one, from which the pulp has been scooped out, and which contains a substitute handkerchief, so cannot be handed for examination.) Turning for an instant towards the stage, he tosses the lemon to his assistant, who catches it, and places it on the table. The momentary turn from the audience enables him to get from under his waistband, and to palm, a little bundle of pieces of cambric, each about four inches square. Taking the borrowed handkerchief, he rolls it into a ball between his hands, and hands it (apparently) to some one to hold, in reality substituting the torn pieces of cambric. He then turns, and takes a few paces towards his table, meanwhile tucking the handkerchief under his waistcoat, and taking therefrom in place of it a strip of cambric, about four or five feet long and four inches wide, rolled up into a small compass. This he palms. Suddenly turning back, he exclaims, “My dear sir, what are you doing with that handkerchief? I never told you to do that!” The innocent holder looks up in astonishment, but the performer continues, “Will you have the kindness to open the handkerchief?” He does so, and finds it in pieces. After a little chaff about making him pay for the damage, the performer says, “Well, I suppose I must show you how to restore it.” Here he again takes the pieces, and folds them together, saying, “See, you must take them as I do, and rub them very gently with the left hand.” Substituting the prepared slip, he hands it to him; but, when he begins to rub, exclaims again, “Dear me, dear me! what are you doing now? I told you the left hand. You are making matters worse than ever.” The handkerchief is now found in a long strip. The performer endeavours to induce the owner to accept it in this shape, which he assures her is the newest style; but she naturally objects, and begs that it may be restored to its original condition. For that purpose, the performer, rolling the slip into a ball, places it in his magic pistol (see page 215), and rams it down with his wand. Appearing to reflect for a moment, he says, “Where shall I fire it? Ah! suppose I aim at that lemon on the table?” “Bang!” goes the pistol, and the performer, taking a knife, cuts the lemon all round (flinging the rind carelessly on the stage), and produces the substitute handkerchief (professedly the original). He comes forward to the audience with it, and, after thanking248 the owner, makes a gesture of returning it; but, as if struck by a sudden thought, checks himself, and says, “I’m afraid it smells rather strong of the lemon. Will you allow me to scent it for you? I have some capital Eau de Cologne here.” Going back to his table, he places the handkerchief on a plate, and pours scent on it, turning as he does so to the owner, and saying, “Please tell me when you think there is enough.” While his back is turned, the attendant, who has been standing by holding a lighted candle, with a mischievous wink at the company, tilts the candle, and sets the handkerchief on fire. The performer apologizes for his assistant’s stupidity, but appeals to the company to bear witness that it was no fault of his, and bringing forward the plate, with the handkerchief still blazing, offers it to the owner. She, of course, declines to take it, and the performer, remarking, “You don’t like it in this condition; well, then, suppose I put it in paper for you,” places the plate on the floor, telling the assistant to put it on the table, and runs off to get the paper. The attendant tries to lift off the plate, but finds that it burns his fingers. However, after several attempts, getting the plate a little nearer to the table at each, he manages to place it on the table. This little by-play amuses the audience, and gives the performer the few moments which he requires for his preparations behind the scenes. Coming forward with a sheet of clean white paper, he wraps therein the still blazing handkerchief, crushing it together so as to extinguish the flames. He offers the packet so made to the lady, who, believing that it contains nothing but ashes, declines to receive it, when the professor, tearing the paper apart, pulls out the handkerchief perfectly restored, while the burnt fragments have vanished.

The Upgraded Handkerchief.—This is one of Herrmann’s favorite tricks and serves as a great example of his performance style. The performer steps forward and asks to borrow a lady’s handkerchief. While it's being retrieved, he produces a lemon from the hair or whiskers of one of the spectators, which he casually holds under someone's nose to prove it's real.247 (This lemon, which was secretly held in his palm, is specially prepared — the pulp has been scooped out and it contains a substitute handkerchief, so it can’t be handed over for inspection.) Turning briefly away from the audience, he tosses the lemon to his assistant, who catches it and places it on the table. This brief moment allows him to retrieve, from under his waistband, a small bundle of cambric pieces, each about four inches square. He takes the borrowed handkerchief, rolls it into a ball between his hands, and hands it (seemingly) to someone to hold, while actually substituting it with the torn cambric pieces. He then turns and strides a few steps towards his table, discreetly tucking the handkerchief under his waistcoat, and pulls out a strip of cambric about four or five feet long and four inches wide, rolled up tightly. He hides this in his hand. Suddenly turning back, he exclaims, “My dear sir, what are you doing with that handkerchief? I never told you to do that!” The unsuspecting holder looks up in surprise, but the performer continues, “Would you kindly open the handkerchief?” The holder does so and finds it in pieces. After a bit of joking about making him pay for the damage, the performer says, “Well, I guess I should show you how to fix it.” He takes the pieces again and folds them together, saying, “See, you must take them as I do and rub them very gently with your left hand.” He then substitutes the prepared strip and hands it over; but when the holder starts to rub it, he exclaims again, “Oh dear, what are you doing now? I told you left hand! You’re making it worse!” The handkerchief is now found in a long strip. The performer tries to persuade the owner to accept it in this shape, assuring her it's the latest style, but she understandably objects and asks for it to be returned to its original state. For that, the performer rolls the strip into a ball, places it in his magic pistol (see page 215), and pushes it down with his wand. After thinking for a moment, he says, “Where shall I fire it? Oh! How about aiming at that lemon on the table?” “Bang!” goes the pistol, and the performer, taking a knife, cuts around the lemon (carelessly throwing the rind onto the stage) and produces the substitute handkerchief (pretending it’s the original). He approaches the audience with it, thanks248 the owner, and gestures as if to return it; but suddenly stopping, he says, “I’m afraid it smells quite strongly of lemon. Would you let me scent it for you? I have some great Eau de Cologne here.” Going back to his table, he places the handkerchief on a plate and pours some scent on it, turning to the owner and saying, “Please let me know when you think there’s enough.” While his back is turned, the assistant, who’s been standing nearby holding a lit candle, mischievously winks at the audience, tilts the candle, and sets the handkerchief on fire. The performer apologizes for his assistant’s foolishness but asks the audience to witness that it wasn’t his fault, and he presents the flaming plate with the handkerchief to the owner. Of course, she refuses to take it, and the performer comments, “You don’t want it like this; well then, how about I wrap it up for you?” He places the plate on the floor, instructs the assistant to take it to the table, and rushes off to get the paper. The assistant tries to lift the plate but finds it too hot to hold. After several attempts, managing to inch the plate closer to the table each time, he succeeds in placing it down. This little bit of action entertains the audience and gives the performer the moment he needs to prepare backstage. Coming back with a sheet of clean white paper, he wraps the still-burning handkerchief, crushing it together to put out the flames. He offers the wrapped package to the lady, who, thinking it only contains ashes, refuses to take it. The professor then tears the paper apart, revealing the handkerchief completely restored, while the burnt fragments have vanished.

The effect last mentioned is produced by the use of a double paper, pasted together round three of its sides, and thus forming a kind of bag in the centre. In this bag the performer, during his momentary absence from the stage, places the genuine handkerchief, folded so as to occupy as little space as possible. The handkerchief, therefore, lies between the two thicknesses of the paper, and when the rolled up packet is torn open from outside, may be removed without disturbing the burnt fragments, which still remain inside the paper.

The effect just mentioned is created by using a double layer of paper, glued together on three sides to form a sort of bag in the middle. In this bag, the performer, during their brief absence from the stage, puts the real handkerchief, folded to take up as little space as possible. The handkerchief, then, is between the two layers of paper, and when the rolled-up packet is torn open from the outside, it can be taken out without disturbing the burnt remnants, which still stay inside the paper.

Where it is necessary, as for the purpose of this trick, to introduce some article into a lemon, the necessary preparation should be made249 as follows:—A lemon with a thick hard rind should be selected, and a plug-shaped piece, about an inch and a half in diameter, should be scooped with a sharp knife out of one end. The pulp may now be removed, leaving the rind a mere shell, while the piece originally cut out will form a kind of stopper, which may be secured in its place by thrusting a hair-pin or piece of wire through the fruit and plug from side to side, and nipping off the ends flush with the outer surface. When the performer exhibits the lemon, he takes care to have the cut end inwards towards his palm; so that the circular mark is concealed by the fingers, and when he desires to produce the handkerchief he cuts the opposite end.

Where it's necessary, as in this trick, to put something inside a lemon, here's how to prepare it: First, choose a lemon with a thick, hard rind. Use a sharp knife to scoop out a plug-shaped piece about an inch and a half in diameter from one end. Now you can remove the pulp, leaving just the rind as a shell. The piece you cut out will act as a stopper, which you can secure by pushing a hairpin or piece of wire through the lemon and the plug from side to side, then trimming the ends so they are flush with the surface. When the performer shows the lemon, he makes sure to keep the cut end facing his palm so that the circular cut is hidden by his fingers. When he wants to produce the handkerchief, he cuts the opposite end.

The Handkerchief cut up, burnt, and finally found in a Candle.—We have already described one or two modes in which a handkerchief, after being apparently cut up, or burnt, may be reproduced in its original condition. This is another and very effective form of the same trick.

The handkerchief was cut up, burned, and finally discovered in a candle.—We have already described one or two ways in which a handkerchief, after seeming to be cut up or burnt, can be restored to its original state. This is another very effective version of the same trick.

Having borrowed a white handkerchief, you exchange it, by one or other of the means already described, for a substitute of similar appearance, and place the latter on the table. You then remember that, as you are about to burn the handkerchief, you will want a candle. You call to your attendant, but he, previously instructed, does not answer, and after a momentary pause you determine to fetch it yourself. You have, however, no sooner left the stage, than you meet the defaulter, and angrily remarking, in a stage whisper, so that the audience may hear, that he is never at hand when you want him, or making some similar observation, you order him to bring a lighted candle. Your absence is only momentary, but it has enabled you to throw him the real handkerchief, which he forthwith rolls up, and places inside a candle made hollow for the purpose; which he then places in a candlestick, lights, and brings on the stage. You have meanwhile taken up the substitute handkerchief, and advanced to the audience, getting ready the while in your palm a small piece of cambric, about six inches in diameter. Taking the handkerchief by the centre, in the same hand, you pull out between the first finger and thumb a portion of the piece of cambric, which is naturally taken to be a part of the handkerchief. Handing to one of the spectators250 a pair of scissors, you request him to cut off a small portion of the handkerchief. He cuts off a piece of the cambric. Holding this piece in the one hand, and taking the remainder, with the substitute handkerchief hanging down below it, in the other, you offer to teach the company your patent method of mending handkerchiefs, requiring neither thimble, needle, nor thread. Applying the cut edges to the candle, you set them on fire, rubbing them together. Finally, blowing out the flame, and throwing the handkerchief over the hand that holds the pieces, you palm them, and immediately afterwards show the handkerchief (i.e., the substitute) completely restored.

Having borrowed a white handkerchief, you swap it, using one of the methods mentioned earlier, for a similar-looking substitute, and place that on the table. You then remember that, since you're about to burn the handkerchief, you'll need a candle. You call for your assistant, but he, having been instructed beforehand, doesn't respond. After a brief pause, you decide to get it yourself. However, as soon as you leave the stage, you run into the assistant and, whispering loudly enough for the audience to hear, you angrily comment that he’s never around when you need him, or something similar, and you tell him to bring a lit candle. Your absence is only for a moment, but it allows you to pass him the real handkerchief, which he quickly rolls up and places inside a hollow candle made for that purpose. He then puts it in a candlestick, lights it, and brings it back on stage. Meanwhile, you’ve picked up the substitute handkerchief and moved closer to the audience, getting ready a small piece of cambric, about six inches in diameter, in your palm. Taking the handkerchief by the center, you pull out a portion of the cambric between your thumb and forefinger, which is naturally assumed to be part of the handkerchief. You hand a pair of scissors to one of the spectators and ask him to cut off a small piece of the handkerchief. He cuts off a piece of the cambric. Holding this piece in one hand and taking the rest of the handkerchief, with the substitute hanging down below it, in the other, you offer to show the audience your special method of fixing handkerchiefs, which requires neither a thimble, needle, nor thread. By applying the cut edges to the candle, you ignite them by rubbing them together. Finally, blowing out the flame and throwing the handkerchief over the hand holding the pieces, you palm them and then immediately reveal the handkerchief (i.e., the substitute) completely restored.

The mode of procedure so far is pretty well known, and it is highly probable that one or more of the audience will be acquainted with it. Accordingly, you may safely expect to perceive in some quarter or other, knowing glances, or confidential communications as to “how it’s done.” Noticing, or pretending to notice this, you say, “Ah, I see there is a gentleman there who thinks he has found me out. You fancy, no doubt, sir, that I have performed this trick in the old fashion, by cutting a piece of cambric which does not form part of the handkerchief. Why, my dear sir, the trick in that form is as old as—your grandmother. But it is my own fault; I quite forgot to show you that the handkerchief was really cut. It is my rule never to perform the same trick twice over, but I feel so hurt at your unkind suspicion that I must break my rule for once, and this time you shall cut the handkerchief yourself.” You offer him the scissors, and holding up the handkerchief (which the audience naturally believe to be the genuine one) by the middle, you allow him to cut a piece fairly out of it, immediately afterwards spreading it out, and showing that a large hole is made in the centre. Again, you hold the edges to the candle, but this time, as if by accident, you let the flames fairly catch hold of the handkerchief, which you are compelled to drop upon a plate or tray, and to let it burn itself out. For a moment, you feign to be embarrassed, and the audience are half inclined to believe that you have made a mistake, and your trick has failed; but you quickly recover your confidence, and remark, “This is not precisely what I intended, ladies and gentlemen. I am afraid I have made a little mistake, but fortunately it is easily remedied. The fact is, I forgot to pronounce the magic word at the right251 moment, and the handkerchief has in consequence stopped short at the first stage of transmigration. To make it pass into the second stage, that of renewed existence, I must again employ the agency of fire. See, I place the ashes in my magic pistol, and ram them down with the mystic wand. Now what shall I aim at? Ah! the candle on the table! A capital mark, and as it has been before you throughout the trick, you know that it cannot have undergone any preparation.” (You fire, aiming at the candle.) “Did you see it pass? No. It has done so, nevertheless; but I must have put in a little too much powder, for it has gone right into the candle.” (You bring the candle forward.) “Will some one oblige me by seeing if it is really in the candle.” The candle is broken in half, and the handkerchief is found embedded therein.

The way things have gone so far is pretty well-known, and it's very likely that one or more people in the audience are familiar with it. So, you can expect to see knowing looks or private exchanges about “how it’s done” from somewhere. Noticing this, or pretending to notice, you say, “Ah, I see there’s a gentleman here who thinks he’s figured me out. You probably think, sir, that I performed this trick the old-fashioned way, by cutting a piece of cambric that isn’t part of the handkerchief. Well, my dear sir, that version of the trick is as ancient as—your grandmother. But it's my fault; I forgot to show you that the handkerchief was really cut. I have a rule never to perform the same trick twice, but I feel so hurt by your doubt that I must break my rule this one time, and you shall cut the handkerchief yourself.” You hand him the scissors, and holding up the handkerchief (which the audience naturally thinks is the real one) by the middle, you let him cut a piece out of it, immediately spreading it out to show there’s now a large hole in the center. Again, you hold the edges to the candle, but this time, as if by accident, you let the flames catch the handkerchief, which you have to drop onto a plate or tray, letting it burn out. For a moment, you pretend to be flustered, and the audience starts to think you might have messed up and your trick has failed; but you quickly regain your composure and say, “This isn’t exactly what I meant, ladies and gentlemen. I’m afraid I made a little mistake, but luckily it’s an easy fix. The thing is, I forgot to say the magic word at the right moment, so the handkerchief stopped at the first stage of transformation. To move it to the second stage, that of renewed existence, I need to use fire again. Look, I’ll put the ashes in my magic pistol and pack them down with the mysterious wand. Now, what should I aim at? Ah! The candle on the table! A great target, and since it’s been right in front of you during the trick, you know it hasn’t been tampered with.” (You fire at the candle.) “Did you see it move? No? It did, though; I must have put in a bit too much powder, because it’s gone right into the candle.” (You bring the candle forward.) “Can someone help me and check if it’s really inside the candle?” The candle is broken in half, revealing that the handkerchief is embedded within it.

The candle used for the purpose of the above trick is sometimes a genuine wax or composite candle, but more often a mere pasteboard tube, previously cut half asunder in the middle (so as to break without difficulty), and then covered with glazed white paper, in imitation of a candle, a genuine candle-end being inserted at the top. If a candle of this latter description is used, the performer must himself break it, as a spectator doing so would at once discover that it was a prepared article.

The candle used for the trick described above is sometimes a real wax or composite candle, but more often it’s just a pasteboard tube that's been cut in half in the middle (so it breaks easily) and then covered with shiny white paper to look like a candle, with a real candle stub placed at the top. If a candle like this is used, the performer must break it themselves because if a spectator did, they would immediately realize it was a fake.

Before quitting the subject of handkerchiefs burnt and restored, we may mention a little appliance called the “handkerchief table,” which is designed for this purpose. It is precisely the same in make and operation as the table or tripod, described at page 139, for burning and restoring a card, but a little larger. To those acquainted with the card tripod, the use and effect of the handkerchief table will be sufficiently obvious, without any special explanation.

Before moving on from the topic of handkerchiefs that have been burned and restored, we should mention a small device called the “handkerchief table,” which is designed for this purpose. It is exactly the same in design and function as the table or tripod described on page 139, which is used for burning and restoring a card, but it's a little larger. For those familiar with the card tripod, the use and effect of the handkerchief table will be clear without any additional explanation.

The Shower of Sweets.—This is a trick which is sure to be well received by a juvenile audience. The performer comes forward with an ordinary plate or salver, which he hands for examination, and then places on the table. He next borrows a handkerchief. Laying it flat over the plate, he lifts it up by nipping the middle with his finger and thumb, letting the four corners hang down. He then strokes down the handkerchief with the other hand, under the pretence of mesmerising it, when a shower of burnt almonds, chocolate252 creams, acidulated drops, etc., pours down upon the plate. Again he strokes the handkerchief, and again the shower pours down; and the plate, being by this time full, is handed round to the company to prove that in the quality of the sweets, at any rate, there is “no deception.”

The Candy Shower.—This is a trick that's sure to be a hit with kids. The performer comes out with an ordinary plate or tray, which he shows for inspection before placing it on the table. Next, he borrows a handkerchief. He lays it flat over the plate, lifts it up by pinching the middle with his fingers, letting the four corners hang down. He then smooths down the handkerchief with his other hand, pretending to mesmerize it, when a shower of burnt almonds, chocolate252 creams, sour drops, etc., spills onto the plate. He strokes the handkerchief again, and once more the treats rain down; and with the plate now full, he hands it around for everyone to show that at least when it comes to the sweets, there’s “no deception.”

The secret lies in the use of a small bag, of cambric or fine calico, shaped like an inverted letter V. The edges are turned in at the mouth, and through each hem is passed a straight piece of watch-spring or whalebone, one a little longer than the other. The natural tendency of these is to lie side by side, keeping the mouth of the bag closed; but if pressure be simultaneously applied to both ends of the springs, the longer one assumes the shape of a semicircle, thereby opening the bag. Through the opposite end of the bag is passed a pointed wire hook. The bag is beforehand filled with nuts or bonbons, and hung by the hook to the edge of the table on the side away from the spectators. Though the bag is mouth downwards, the action of the spring keeps it closed, and nothing can fall out. When the operator, standing behind the table, draws the handkerchief over the plate, he allows a portion of the hinder edge to hang over the edge of the table nearest to himself. When he picks up the handkerchief, which he does with his finger and thumb, he takes hold, through the handkerchief, of the upper part of the bag. The bag is thus lifted up within the handkerchief, but is concealed by the folds of the latter hanging down around it. The movement of the hand in stroking down the handkerchief presses the springs, and the bag opens, again closing as soon as the pressure is relaxed. When all the contents have fallen, the performer drops the handkerchief, bag and all, on the table, while he advances to the audience with the results of the trick, and, on again picking up the handkerchief, lets fall the empty bag upon the servante, or slips it into his pocket.

The trick depends on using a small bag made of cambric or fine calico, shaped like an upside-down V. The edges are folded in at the opening, and a straight piece of watch-spring or whalebone is threaded through each hem, with one piece being slightly longer than the other. Naturally, these springs lie next to each other, keeping the bag closed; however, if pressure is applied at both ends of the springs at the same time, the longer one bends into a semicircle, opening the bag. A pointed wire hook is threaded through the other end of the bag. The bag is filled with nuts or candies beforehand and is hung by the hook on the edge of the table, out of the audience’s view. Even though the bag is upside down, the spring keeps it closed, so nothing falls out. When the performer stands behind the table and draws a handkerchief over the plate, he lets part of the back edge hang over the side of the table nearest to him. As he picks up the handkerchief with his fingers and thumb, he grabs the top part of the bag through it. This way, the bag is lifted up inside the handkerchief, hidden by the folds hanging down around it. When he strokes down the handkerchief, it compresses the springs, causing the bag to open, and it closes again once the pressure is released. When all the contents have fallen out, the performer drops the handkerchief, bag and all, on the table and approaches the audience with the results of the trick. When he picks up the handkerchief again, he lets the empty bag drop onto the servante or slips it into his pocket.

Fig. 109. Fig. 110.

It will be observed that, in the form of the trick above described, the use of both hands is necessary—one to hold the handkerchief, while the other, stroking it down, presses the springs, and causes the bag to open. There is an improved form of the bag, used, and, we believe, invented by Robert-Houdin, which enables the performer, holding the handkerchief at arm’s length, to perform the trick by mere word of command, without using the left hand at all. The253 bag is in this case of the form shown in Fig. 109. No springs are used, but the bag, when filled, is closed by folding down the flap, and hooking the little ring over the hook, the bag thereby assuming the appearance shown in Fig. 110. It is picked up within the handkerchief as described in the case of the spring bag; but when it is desired to produce the sweets, a slight inclination of the hook to the left (effected by a barely perceptible movement of the thumb and finger) causes the ring to slip off and the flap to fall down, as in Fig. 109, releasing the whole contents of the bag.

It will be noted that, in the form of the trick described above, both hands are needed—one to hold the handkerchief while the other smooths it down, presses the springs, and causes the bag to open. There's an improved version of the bag, which we believe was invented by Robert-Houdin, allowing the performer to hold the handkerchief at arm’s length and perform the trick just by speaking, without using the left hand at all. The253 bag in this case is in the form shown in Fig. 109. No springs are used; instead, when filled, the bag is closed by folding down the flap and hooking the little ring over the hook, making the bag look like what's shown in Fig. 110. It is picked up within the handkerchief as described in the case of the spring bag; however, when the sweets are to be produced, a slight tilt of the hook to the left (achieved by a barely noticeable movement of the thumb and finger) causes the ring to slip off and the flap to fall down, as in Fig. 109, releasing the entire contents of the bag.

The trick may be still further improved by having two similar bags stitched back to back, each with its own ring and hook. In this case an inclination to the left releases one hook, and an inclination to the right the other. The two bags may be filled with bonbons of different colours or descriptions, or the one may be filled with bonbons and the other with grey peas. In this case you may introduce the trick by some observations upon the singular effects of the human breath, and how greatly such effects vary in different persons. A handkerchief is borrowed, and a lady and gentleman are requested each to hold a plate. The lady is requested to breathe on the handkerchief, and a shower of bonbons falls on her plate. The gentleman breathes in his turn, and retires, amid derisive applause, with a plate of peas.

The trick can be enhanced by having two identical bags stitched back to back, each with its own ring and hook. When leaning to the left, one hook is released, and leaning to the right releases the other. The two bags can be filled with candies of different colors or types, or one can be filled with candies and the other with gray peas. You can introduce the trick by discussing the strange effects of human breath and how these effects vary from person to person. A handkerchief is borrowed, and a lady and gentleman are each asked to hold a plate. The lady breathes on the handkerchief, and a shower of candies falls onto her plate. The gentleman takes his turn and walks away, amid mocking applause, with a plate of peas.

Fig. 111.

While upon the subject of the mysterious production of sweets, we may incidentally mention another piece of apparatus designed for this purpose. This is a wand, made to correspond in general appearance with that habitually used by the performer. Internally, it is a254 hollow tube, with a stiff wire running throughout its whole length. One end of this wire is fixed to a moveable cap, which covers the upper end of the wand, while the other terminates in a sort of little wooden plug, which closes the opening at the other end. A spiral spring within the upper end of the wand tends to force the cap upwards, and so to keep the opposite end closed; but if pressure be applied to the cap, the plug is forced outwards, and the tube thereby opened. See Fig. 111, in which a represents the wand in its normal condition (i.e., closed), while b represents it with the cap pressed downwards, and the opposite end consequently open.

While we're on the topic of the mysterious creation of sweets, we can also mention another device made for this purpose. This is a wand that generally looks like the one typically used by the performer. Inside, it's a hollow tube with a stiff wire running through its entire length. One end of the wire is attached to a movable cap that covers the top of the wand, while the other end ends in a small wooden plug that seals the opening at the other end. A spiral spring at the top of the wand pushes the cap upward to keep the opposite end closed; however, if pressure is applied to the cap, the plug is pushed outward, opening the tube. See Fig. 111, where a represents the wand in its normal state (i.e., closed), and b represents it with the cap pressed down, consequently making the other end open.

To prepare the wand for use, the cap is pressed and the valve opened. The wand is then filled with very minute sweetmeats, of the description known among juveniles as “hundreds and thousands;” after which the pressure on the cap is removed, and the plug allowed to retire into its place. The wand, thus prepared, is at the proper moment brought forward in place of the ordinary wand, which in its present condition it exactly resembles. The performer then declares his intention of passing a shower of sweets into the pocket of a spectator, and, having first shown it empty, touches the inside with the wand, at the same moment pressing the cap, when the sweets within escape into the pocket.

To get the wand ready for use, press the cap and open the valve. Then, fill the wand with tiny candies known to kids as "hundreds and thousands." After that, release the pressure on the cap and let the plug slide back into place. The wand, now prepped, is brought forward at the right moment instead of the regular wand, which it looks exactly like in its current state. The performer then announces his plan to drop a shower of sweets into a spectator's pocket and, after showing it to be empty, touches the inside with the wand while simultaneously pressing the cap, allowing the sweets inside to escape into the pocket.

The Feathers from an Empty Handkerchief.—This is a very simple illusion, but has nevertheless been a favourite with many noted prestidigitateurs. Its effect is as follows:—The performer comes forward with a large handkerchief, or small shawl, which he shakes about in all directions, to show that it is empty. Throwing it over the left hand, he with the other grasps it by the middle, and removing the hand over which it was thrown, lets it hang perpendicularly down. To all appearance it is still empty; but on being shaken it is seen to contain some solid object. With a twist of the wrist, the performer turns the handkerchief and its contents upwards.255 The handkerchief naturally falls down over the coat-sleeve, leaving exposed a handsome military plume. The performer grasps, with the left hand, the stem of this plume and the centre of the handkerchief, immediately drawing away the right arm from beneath it. Again the handkerchief on being waved about is seen to contain something, which being held upright, the handkerchief falls down as before, and a second plume is revealed. The operation is again and again repeated with a like result, till fifteen or twenty plumes have been produced; the handkerchief being at any moment handed for examination.

The Feathers from an Empty Handkerchief.—This is a very simple illusion, but it has still been a favorite with many well-known magicians. Here's how it works: The performer comes forward with a large handkerchief or a small shawl, shaking it in all directions to show that it’s empty. He throws it over his left hand and holds it by the middle with the other hand, then removes the hand that was holding it, allowing it to hang down. It looks completely empty, but when shaken, it reveals a solid object inside. With a twist of the wrist, the performer turns the handkerchief and its contents upright.255 The handkerchief falls down over the coat sleeve, revealing a beautiful military plume. The performer takes hold of the plume’s stem and the center of the handkerchief with his left hand, quickly pulling his right arm out from underneath it. Once again, when the handkerchief is waved, it appears to contain something, and as it is held upright, it falls down again, unveiling a second plume. This process is repeated several times until fifteen or twenty plumes are produced, with the handkerchief being given for examination at any time.

The explanation lies in the fact that the plumes, which may be compressed into a very small compass, are laid beforehand along the arms of the performer, who puts on his coat over them. The stems of the plumes are nearest to the hands. When the handkerchief is thrown over either hand, the other hand catches hold through it of the stem of one of the feathers. This hand now remains stationary, while the other arm is drawn from under the handkerchief. The fact that the plumes come out of the sleeves is thus much less patent than if the opposite hand made the motion and drew the feather out. The plumes on being drawn out expand considerably; so much so, indeed, that it is hard to believe that the quantity with which the stage is strewn could possibly have been concealed about the person of the performer.

The explanation is that the plumes, which can be compressed into a very small size, are arranged beforehand along the performer's arms, and he puts his coat over them. The stems of the plumes are closest to his hands. When he throws a handkerchief over one hand, the other hand reaches through it to grab the stem of one of the feathers. This hand stays still while the other arm is pulled out from under the handkerchief. As a result, it's less obvious that the plumes are coming out of the sleeves than if the other hand made the motion to pull the feather out. When the plumes are drawn out, they expand significantly; in fact, it's hard to believe that all the plumes on the stage could have been hidden on the performer.

Some performers have in addition a bundle of plumes fastened together by a thread, and laid along the inside of the trousers and waistcoat, in such manner that the stems are just within the breast of the latter. After having exhausted his sleeves, the operator, holding the handkerchief (by two of its corners) across his chest, to show that it is quite empty, catches hold, with the second and third fingers, of the stem of the bundle within the waistcoat, and moving the handkerchief with a quick sidelong motion from left to right, or vice versâ, draws out the feathers behind it, and immediately breaking the thread, shakes them out in a shower on the stage.

Some performers also have a bundle of feathers tied together with a thread, placed along the inside of their trousers and waistcoat, so that the stems are just inside the breast of the waistcoat. After using his sleeves, the performer, holding the handkerchief (by two of its corners) across his chest to show it's completely empty, grabs the stem of the bundle inside the waistcoat with his second and third fingers. By quickly moving the handkerchief from left to right, or vice versa, he pulls out the feathers behind it and, breaking the thread, lets them pour out in a shower on the stage.

There is another form of the same trick, in which the handkerchief plays only a secondary part, but, from its near relation to that last described, we insert it in this place. It is generally called

There is another version of the same trick, where the handkerchief is only a minor detail, but since it closely relates to the one just mentioned, we include it here. It's usually called

256

256

The Flying Plume.—For this trick you require two plumes, as nearly as possible alike in appearance. To the stem of each should be attached a loop of string or ribbon, two or three inches in length. You must also have a japanned tin tube, of about twenty inches long, and three in diameter. On either end is fitted a cap, of about two inches in depth. One of these caps is perfectly plain, but within the other is an inner cap, made after the fashion of the middle compartment of the snuff-box vase (see page 217). The relative tightness of the inner and outer caps is such that, if in removing the outer one with the finger and thumb some slight degree of lateral pressure is exerted, it nips the inner cap, which comes off with it; but if the outer cap is removed without pressure, the inner cap remains on the tube, forming a false top to it. Within this inner cap, which is internally about an inch and a half deep, is glued a short end of a third plume, similar in colour and appearance to the two others. The interior of the tube is divided into two parts by a longitudinal division, also of tin, running diagonally nearly from end to end. The tube is thus divided into two wedge-shaped compartments, the cap at one end giving access to the one, and the cap at the other end to the other; each being large enough to contain a plume. (See Fig. 112, representing a section of the entire tube, and Fig. 113, giving a slightly enlarged view of the ends.) The tube is prepared beforehand by filling the compartment which is closed by the double cap with bonbons of various kinds; the other compartment being left empty. One of the plumes is concealed in the left sleeve of the performer, as in the last trick.

The Flying Plume.—For this trick, you need two feathers that look very similar. Attach a loop of string or ribbon, about two or three inches long, to the stem of each feather. You will also need a metal tube, about twenty inches long and three inches in diameter. Each end of the tube has a cap, roughly two inches deep. One cap is completely plain, but the other contains an inner cap, designed like the middle section of the snuff-box vase (see page 217). The inner and outer caps fit together in such a way that if you remove the outer one with some lateral pressure using your fingers, it pulls off the inner cap as well; however, if you take off the outer cap without applying pressure, the inner cap stays put, acting as a false top. Inside this inner cap, which is about an inch and a half deep, you glue a short piece of a third feather that matches the color and appearance of the other two. The inside of the tube is split into two sections by a diagonal divider made of tin that runs almost from end to end. This results in two wedge-shaped compartments, with one cap giving access to one compartment and the other cap giving access to the second compartment, each of which is large enough to hold a feather. (See Fig. 112, showing a section of the whole tube, and Fig. 113, providing a slightly enlarged view of the ends.) Prepare the tube beforehand by filling the compartment sealed with the double cap with various candies, leaving the other compartment empty. Conceal one of the feathers in the performer's left sleeve, just like in the previous trick.

Fig. 112.
Fig. 113.

These preparations having been duly made beforehand, you come forward with a small shawl, or large handkerchief, the tube, and the second plume. Laying the tube and plume upon the table, you257 request the audience to satisfy themselves that the shawl contains nothing. You then ask some one to step forward and take care of the shawl, which you meanwhile carelessly throw over your left hand, immediately after taking hold of its centre with your right, as before described, and drawing the left arm away. It is needless to remark, to those who have followed the explanation of the last trick, that the hidden plume is thereby brought under the shawl, though, being held by the loop of ribbon, there is nothing to betray its presence. You hand the shawl in this condition to the person who has volunteered to hold it, requesting him to keep it at arm’s length, still hanging down. Next taking up the tube, you open it at the plain or unprepared end, and holding it mouth downwards, show that it is (apparently) empty; then ostentatiously place the plume therein, and put the cap on.

After making all the necessary preparations, you step forward with a small shawl or large handkerchief, the tube, and the second plume. You place the tube and plume on the table and ask the audience to check that the shawl is empty. Then, you invite someone to come up and hold the shawl while you casually throw it over your left hand, immediately gripping its center with your right, as described earlier, and pulling your left arm away. It's important to note for those who followed the previous trick that the hidden plume is now under the shawl, but since it’s held by the ribbon loop, there’s no indication of its presence. You pass the shawl in this state to the person holding it, asking them to keep it at arm's length and still hanging down. Next, you take up the tube, open it at the plain or unprepared end, and while holding it mouth down, you show that it appears to be empty; then you dramatically place the plume inside and put on the cap.

In returning to your table you take the opportunity to reverse the tube, and to lay it down in such a manner that the opposite end (i.e., that with the false top) may be turned towards the audience. Some performers do this by letting the tube fall, as if by accident, but this is, in our opinion, a clumsy and inartistic proceeding. By gesticulating a little with the tube, in announcing what you are about to do, so that the audience may, little by little, become less certain as to which end you have just opened, and by carelessly transferring the tube from the one hand to the other just as you lay it on the table, you may make the change with scarcely a chance of detection, even by the keenest observer. You then say, “I shall now, ladies and gentlemen, make the plume which you have just seen me place in this tube travel into the shawl which that gentleman is holding, while the tube will be completely filled with objects of interest for the juvenile spectators.” Here you may possibly hear, or if not, you pretend to hear, a murmur to the effect that the feather has already left the tube. “Pardon me,” you say, “the plume has not yet left the tube, neither will it do so until I give the command,” and so saying, you take off the cap, leaving on the false top. The audience see the little bit of feather within, which they naturally take to be the end of the genuine plume. Again you replace the cap; and after going through some appropriate magical ceremony, again remove it, but this time carrying off the false top with it. (It should have been258 mentioned that the tube is japanned in such manner that the eye cannot detect any difference whether the false top is on or off.) Placing the cap, with the false top within it, on the table, you come forward and pour the sweets from the tube, while the shawl is on examination found to contain the plume.

In returning to your table, take the chance to flip the tube around and lay it down so that the opposite end (the one with the fake top) faces the audience. Some performers let the tube fall, as if by accident, but we think that’s a clumsy and unartistic move. Instead, gesture a bit with the tube while announcing what you’re about to do, making the audience gradually less sure about which end you just opened. Carelessly transfer the tube from one hand to the other just before you place it on the table, and you can make the change almost undetectable, even to the sharpest observer. Then say, “Now, ladies and gentlemen, I will make the plume you just saw me place in this tube travel into the shawl that gentleman is holding, while the tube will be completely filled with interesting objects for the younger spectators.” You might hear, or pretend to hear, a murmur suggesting that the feather has already left the tube. “Excuse me,” you say, “the plume hasn’t left the tube yet, and it won’t until I give the command.” With that, you take off the cap, leaving the fake top on. The audience sees the little bit of feather inside, which they naturally assume is the end of the real plume. Replace the cap again, and after performing some suitable magical gesture, remove it once more, this time taking the false top with it. (It should have been mentioned that the tube is finished in such a way that the eye can’t tell any difference whether the false top is on or off.) Placing the cap, with the fake top inside it, on the table, step forward and pour the sweets from the tube while the shawl is examined and found to hold the plume.

Some performers, for the purpose of this trick, use a tube with a false top, as above described, but open from end to end, without the diagonal partition above mentioned. Before placing the plume in the tube, which they do standing behind the table, they secretly remove the cap at the lower end, and allow the plume to fall through on the servante, where it remains. In this case, there is no production of sweets, but the plume having been produced from the shawl, the performer removes both caps, and hands the empty tube for examination.

Some performers, for this trick, use a tube with a fake top, as described above, but it's open from end to end, without the diagonal partition mentioned earlier. Before placing the plume in the tube, which they do while standing behind the table, they secretly take off the cap at the lower end and let the plume drop onto the servante, where it stays. In this case, there’s no production of sweets; instead, the plume has been produced from the shawl, and the performer removes both caps and hands the empty tube for inspection.

The Magic Laundry.—There is very little brilliancy, either of invention or of manipulation, in this trick, but it is nevertheless generally very well received.

The Magical Laundry.—There's not much brilliance, either in the idea or in the execution of this trick, but it is still usually very well received.

The performer requests the loan of half-a-dozen handkerchiefs, taking care to accept white handkerchiefs only. These he collects in a wooden box, having somewhat the appearance of a good-sized tea caddy. Having got the required number, he places the box upon his table, and invites the attention of the audience to an ordinary tin or wooden pail. This he fills with water, and placing it in front of the stage, takes the handkerchiefs out of the box, and drops them in, stirring them about with his wand; and making as much fun as he can by his pretended anxiety that they shall be thoroughly washed. Having kept this up as long as the audience appear to be amused thereby, he wrings out the handkerchiefs one by one, and throws them into a little shallow metal tub or pan (japanned, and about four inches in depth), which his assistant at this moment brings forward for that purpose, together with a cover after the manner of a saucepan-lid, and a pistol, both of which he places carelessly on the table. Having placed the handkerchiefs in this little tub, the performer announces that having washed them, he will now proceed to dry them, for which purpose he pours over them a little spirits of wine, to which he sets fire. After letting them blaze for a moment or two259 he claps on the cover. “Your handkerchiefs are now dried, ladies and gentlemen,” he says, “but I have still to fold and iron them. It does not take very long, as you will see.” Taking up the pistol, he fires at the tub, and immediately removing the cover, comes forward to the audience, and requests them to identify their handkerchiefs, which are seen neatly folded, and apparently just washed and ironed, within it.

The performer asks to borrow six handkerchiefs, making sure to only accept white ones. He collects them in a wooden box that looks a bit like a decent-sized tea caddy. Once he has the right number, he places the box on his table and directs the audience's attention to an ordinary tin or wooden pail. He fills this pail with water, sets it in front of the stage, takes the handkerchiefs out of the box, and drops them in, stirring them around with his wand while pretending to be anxious about getting them thoroughly washed. He continues this act as long as the audience finds it entertaining, then wrings out the handkerchiefs one by one, tossing them into a small shallow metal tub or pan (painted and about four inches deep), which his assistant brings forward along with a lid similar to a saucepan lid and a pistol, all of which are casually placed on the table. After placing the handkerchiefs in the tub, the performer announces that he will now dry them, pouring a little alcohol over them before lighting it. After letting the flames burn for a moment or two259, he quickly covers the tub. "Your handkerchiefs are now dry, ladies and gentlemen,” he says, “but I still need to fold and iron them. It won’t take long, as you’ll see." He picks up the pistol, shoots at the tub, and then removes the cover, stepping forward to the audience to invite them to identify their handkerchiefs, which are neatly folded and look freshly washed and ironed inside.

The intelligent reader will have already guessed that the trick depends upon a substitution of handkerchiefs. The box in which the genuine handkerchiefs are received has within it a moveable flap, between which and the back of the box the substitutes are placed. When the required number has been collected, this flap is let fall, releasing the substitute handkerchiefs, and at the same time covering the genuine ones. The substitutes having been dropped into the pail of water, the assistant carries off the box, and behind the scenes damps and folds the borrowed handkerchiefs, pressing them flat with a hot iron, if available; if not, with a cold one. The tub or pan which is used for the conclusion of the trick has an inner lining of such a size as to fit tightly within it, but about an inch less in depth. The lid again fits within this after the manner of a saucepan lid, but not quite so tightly as the lining itself fits within the outer pan. The folded handkerchiefs are placed within this lining, and the lid placed on, or rather in it—the two together as brought forward having the appearance of a lid only. When the performer claps the lid on the pan, the lining is thereby introduced, but when he again removes it, the lining is left in, exposing the folded handkerchiefs, while the substitutes remain concealed between the true and false bottoms of the pan.

The smart reader will have already figured out that the trick relies on switching handkerchiefs. The box that holds the real handkerchiefs has a movable flap inside it, where the substitutes are placed between the flap and the back of the box. Once the required number has been gathered, this flap drops down, releasing the substitute handkerchiefs while covering the real ones. The substitutes are tossed into a bucket of water, and the assistant takes the box away. Behind the scenes, they dampen and fold the borrowed handkerchiefs, pressing them flat with a hot iron if it's available; if not, they use a cold one. The tub or pan used to finish the trick has an inner lining that fits snugly, but is about an inch shallower. The lid fits inside this lining similar to a saucepan lid, but not as tightly as the lining fits within the outer pan. The folded handkerchiefs are placed inside this lining, and the lid is placed on it—the two together appear as just one lid. When the performer slams the lid onto the pan, the lining is introduced, but when they take it off again, the lining stays in place, revealing the folded handkerchiefs while the substitutes remain hidden between the true and false bottoms of the pan.

The performer, of necessity, accepts white handkerchiefs only, as a coloured one would betray the secret, from the absence of its “double” among the substitutes. Some performers, in order to obviate the suspicion which might be suggested by an evident preference of white handkerchiefs, arrange that a coloured one, of which they possess a duplicate, shall be offered by a confederate among the audience. This certainly heightens the effect of the trick, as it seems to negative the idea of substitution, and though in general we deprecate, as belonging to a low class of art, the employment of confederates,260 this is just the case in which the use of such an expedient may for once be deemed admissible.

The performer can only accept white handkerchiefs, since a colored one would reveal the trick due to the lack of its “double” among the substitutes. Some performers, to avoid raising suspicion about their clear preference for white handkerchiefs, have a confederate in the audience offer a colored one that they have a duplicate of. This definitely enhances the effect of the trick, as it makes it seem like there’s no substitution involved, and while we usually look down on the use of confederates as part of low-level tricks,260 this is one situation where using such a tactic might be acceptable.

The Egg and the Handkerchief.—For this capital feat, which is generally identified with the name of Colonel Stodare, the following are the requirements:—A glass goblet, two small handkerchiefs (generally of plain crimson silk, and about sixteen inches square), a larger silk handkerchief—to which is attached, by a silk thread of about four inches in length, a blown egg-shell—and a hollow metal egg made of zinc, enamelled white, with an oval opening on one side of it measuring about an inch and a half by one inch, or a little more.

The Egg and the Tissue.—For this impressive trick, usually associated with Colonel Stodare, you will need the following: a glass goblet, two small handkerchiefs (typically plain crimson silk, measuring about sixteen inches square), a larger silk handkerchief—attached to which, by a silk thread about four inches long, is a blown eggshell—and a hollow metal egg made of zinc, coated in white enamel, featuring an oval opening on one side measuring around an inch and a half by one inch, or slightly more.

Fig. 114.

The performer comes forward, having in his right hand the goblet and one of the red silk handkerchiefs. The larger silk handkerchief is thrown with apparent carelessness over the other hand, and upon it rests the blown egg, so placed that the thread may be out of sight, while beneath the egg, concealed in a fold of the handkerchief, lies the second red handkerchief, rolled up into as small a compass as possible. The metal egg is, meanwhile, placed in the left-hand secret pocket of the performer, who introduces the trick as follows: “I have here, ladies and gentlemen, a drinking-glass, a couple of silk handkerchiefs, and an egg, all, as you will perceive, of the most ordinary description.” He passes quickly in front of the audience, as though tendering the articles for examination (taking care, however, to keep his right arm advanced towards the spectators, so that the glass and small silk handkerchief may bear the brunt of inspection), and finally places the glass and small handkerchief on a table or chair in full view. “Pray observe,” he continues, “that not one of the articles is removed from your sight, even for one moment. Now, please follow me closely. I will place the egg in the glass, and cover it over with this handkerchief.” This he does by one movement, for as the egg is already lying on the handkerchief, a mere turn of the wrist places the egg in the glass, and at the same time lets fall the handkerchief over it; and at the same time the smaller handkerchief, which was concealed in the larger, is released, and falls into the glass with the egg. “You have all seen me place the egg in the glass” (at the same time shaking the glass, to show by the sound261 that the egg is still there), “which I will not again touch. I shall now take this small handkerchief” (the one which has remained on the table), “and standing as far as possible away, I shall command the handkerchief to dissolve and pass into the glass, and the egg which is now in the glass to come into my hands.” So saying, he holds up the handkerchief, in such manner as to show indirectly that he has nothing else in his hands. Taking a few steps, as though merely to get further from the glass, and holding the handkerchief hanging down between the finger and thumb of the right hand, he drops the other hand to his side, and secretly takes from his pocket the hollow egg, which he palms, keeping the opening outwards. He then, standing with his left side towards the spectators, joins his open hands, as in Fig. 114, the handkerchief hanging down between them. Requesting the audience to watch him narrowly, that they may be quite sure that there is no deception, he begins to wave his joined hands slowly up and down, the second and third fingers of the right hand (which, it will be remembered, is away from the audience) meanwhile gradually working the handkerchief into the hollow of the egg. He every now and then pauses to show that the handkerchief is gradually diminishing, and at last when it is wholly worked into the egg, opens his hands, and shows the egg lying in his palm, taking care, of course, that the opening is undermost. To all appearance, the handkerchief has changed into an egg. “Here is the egg,” he remarks; “let us see if the handkerchief also has obeyed my bidding.” So saying, he lays the egg, still with the opening downwards, upon the table, and taking hold with the finger and thumb of the handkerchief which covers the glass, lifts it daintily up, carrying with it, concealed in its folds, the262 egg-shell attached thereto, and leaving the duplicate red handkerchief lying in the glass.

The performer steps forward, holding a goblet and one of the red silk handkerchiefs in his right hand. He casually tosses a larger silk handkerchief over his other hand, resting the blown egg on it in such a way that the thread is hidden. Underneath the egg, tucked into a fold of the handkerchief, is the second red handkerchief, tightly rolled up. The metal egg is hidden in the left-hand secret pocket of the performer, who introduces the trick by saying, “Ladies and gentlemen, I have here a drinking glass, a couple of silk handkerchiefs, and an egg—all of which are perfectly ordinary.” He quickly moves in front of the audience, as if offering the items for inspection (but ensuring his right arm is extended toward the spectators, so the glass and small silk handkerchief can take center stage), and finally places the glass and small handkerchief on a table or chair where everyone can see. “Please note,” he goes on, “that none of the items are out of your sight, not even for a moment. Now follow me closely. I will place the egg in the glass and cover it with this handkerchief.” He does this in one smooth motion: since the egg is already resting on the handkerchief, a simple flick of the wrist allows him to drop the egg into the glass while simultaneously dropping the handkerchief over it. At the same time, the smaller handkerchief, which was hidden in the larger one, falls into the glass with the egg. “You all saw me put the egg in the glass” (while shaking the glass to demonstrate by the sound that the egg is still there), “and I won’t touch it again. Now, I'll take this small handkerchief” (the one that remained on the table), “and standing as far away as possible, I will command the handkerchief to dissolve and pass into the glass, and the egg that’s in the glass to come into my hands.” Saying this, he holds up the handkerchief, subtly showing that he has nothing else in his hands. He takes a few steps back, as if trying to get further from the glass, with the handkerchief hanging down between his finger and thumb of his right hand, while discreetly dropping his other hand to his side to secretly retrieve the hollow egg from his pocket, palming it with the opening facing outward. Standing with his left side toward the audience, he brings his open hands together, the handkerchief hanging down between them. Asking the audience to watch closely to ensure there’s no trickery, he slowly moves his joined hands up and down, while the second and third fingers of his right hand (which, remember, is turned away from the audience) gradually work the handkerchief into the hollow of the egg. He occasionally pauses to show that the handkerchief is getting smaller, and finally, when it’s completely inside the egg, he opens his hands to reveal the egg resting in his palm, making sure the opening is on the bottom. To all appearances, the handkerchief has transformed into an egg. “Here’s the egg,” he says; “let’s see if the handkerchief has obeyed my command as well.” With that, he sets the egg, still with the opening facing down, on the table, and gingerly lifts the handkerchief covering the glass, carrying with it the hidden egg shell within its folds, while leaving the duplicate red handkerchief in the glass.

It may sometimes, though not very often, occur that one or other of the spectators, suspecting some peculiarity about the egg, may ask to be permitted to examine it. This, of course, you cannot permit, while to refuse would destroy half the prestige of the illusion. Fortunately, there is a way out of the difficulty which absolutely enhances the effect of the trick. “You would like to see the egg,” you reply; “by all means. It is a special feature of my entertainment that all articles used therein will bear the strictest examination. Here is the egg.” During these few words, you have taken up the sham egg with the fingers of your right hand, taking care, of course, to keep the opening away from the audience, and have thence apparently transferred it to your left, with which hand you offer it to the too curious spectator. It is hardly necessary to remark, that in the apparent transfer of the egg to the left hand, you have really palmed it in your right; and as you extend the left hand to the spectator, you quietly drop it from the right into the pochette on that side. The inquirer holds out his hand to receive it. “Pray examine it closely,” you say, opening your empty hand over his own. “What! you have not got it? Ah, that is your fault; you were not quick enough. I always find that this experiment makes the egg excessively volatile.” This unexpected dénouement never fails to raise a laugh against the individual who has sought to embarrass you, while the impromptu disappearance of the egg will be regarded by many as the most marvellous portion of the trick. The same expedient will be equally available to prevent the examination, at an awkward moment, of other small articles.

It may sometimes, though not very often, happen that one of the spectators, noticing something unusual about the egg, might ask to take a look at it. Of course, you can’t allow that, and saying no would ruin half of the illusion's impact. Luckily, there’s a solution that actually boosts the effect of the trick. “You’d like to see the egg,” you say; “sure thing. It’s a unique part of my show that all items used will stand up to close inspection. Here’s the egg.” During these brief words, you pick up the fake egg with your right hand, ensuring to keep the opening hidden from the audience, and then you seemingly transfer it to your left hand, which you offer to the overly curious spectator. It’s unnecessary to mention that in the apparent handoff of the egg to your left hand, you've actually palmed it in your right; as you extend your left hand to the spectator, you discreetly drop it from your right into the pochette on that side. The inquirer stretches out their hand to take it. “Please examine it closely,” you say, opening your empty hand above theirs. “What! You don’t have it? Ah, that's your fault; you weren’t quick enough. I always find this trick makes the egg incredibly elusive.” This unexpected dénouement never fails to get a laugh at the person who tried to catch you off guard, and the egg’s sudden disappearance will be seen by many as the most amazing part of the trick. The same technique will also work to prevent the examination of other small items during awkward moments.

There is another method, in which the trick is performed with handkerchiefs borrowed from the audience. In this case, two metal eggs, like that above described, are used, the blown egg being dispensed with. The performer commences the trick by borrowing two handkerchiefs, a lady’s handkerchief, and a larger one, preferably of silk. These he places on his table, secretly exchanging the smaller one for a substitute of his own, and retires for a moment to fetch a glass. He takes advantage of his momentary absence to insert the handkerchief of which he has gained possession into one of the hollow263 eggs, and returns with this egg lying (the opening downwards) on his left palm, the other hand holding the glass, while the second hollow egg is concealed in his left pochette. Coming forward to the audience, he picks up, in passing, the larger handkerchief from the table, and handing the glass, as forming the principal portion of the apparatus, for examination, throws the handkerchief over the hand which holds the egg, showing by its outline beneath the silk that it has not been removed, and meanwhile drawing out with the finger and thumb of the concealed hand the handkerchief hidden therein; which is thus ready to be placed in the glass along with the egg, under cover of the larger handkerchief. The rest of the trick proceeds as already described, save that in this instance, the egg not being attached to the outer handkerchief, it is necessary to clip it with the fingers through the handkerchief when the latter is removed. To do this easily and effectually, it is well, in placing the egg in the glass, to place it with the opening upwards, the edges of the opening giving a readier hold than the unbroken surface of the opposite side.

There’s another approach where the trick uses handkerchiefs borrowed from the audience. In this case, two metal eggs, like the one previously described, are used, and the blown egg is not needed. The performer starts the trick by borrowing two handkerchiefs: a lady's handkerchief and a larger one, preferably made of silk. He places them on his table, secretly swapping out the smaller one for a substitute of his own, and steps away for a moment to get a glass. While he’s briefly gone, he puts the handkerchief he took into one of the hollow263 eggs, then returns holding this egg (opening down) in his left palm, with the other hand holding the glass, while keeping the second hollow egg hidden in his left pocket. Approaching the audience, he casually grabs the larger handkerchief from the table, hands the glass for inspection to show it’s part of the main setup, then drapes the handkerchief over the hand holding the egg, revealing the outline beneath the silk to prove it hasn’t been removed. Meanwhile, he discreetly pulls out the handkerchief hidden in the egg with his fingers, getting it ready to place in the glass along with the egg, covered by the larger handkerchief. The rest of the trick goes as previously described, except that since the egg isn't attached to the outer handkerchief, he needs to pinch it with his fingers when the handkerchief is removed. To make this easier and more effective, it’s advisable to put the egg in the glass with the opening facing up, as the edges of the opening provide a better grip than the flat surface on the other side.

Fig. 115.

The Hand Box, for Vanishing a Handkerchief.—While discussing the subject of handkerchief tricks, we must not omit to mention the “hand box,” a clever little contrivance for causing the disappearance of a handkerchief. It consists of a little tin box, of the size and shape of the heel of a gentleman’s boot, closed on all sides, save that which answers to the front portion of the heel, which is left open. (See Fig. 115.) To one of its sides is riveted or soldered a steel spring, about an inch in length. The free end of this spring forms with the side of the box a sort of clip, by means of which the box can be attached (as shown in the Figure) to the fleshy part of the hand, the opening being towards the fingers. Being within the hand, it is of course unseen by the audience. The manner of its use is much the same as that of the hollow egg264 described in the last trick, save that the hand box is never exhibited. As soon as the handkerchief is fairly worked in, the left hand is closed, as if containing it; the effect being to the audience as if the handkerchief was merely rolled up and placed in the left hand. On opening the hand, the handkerchief is found to have disappeared, the performer having meanwhile plenty of opportunity to drop the concealed handkerchief, box and all, into the pochette on his right-hand side.

The Hand Box for Making a Handkerchief Disappear.—When talking about handkerchief tricks, we should definitely mention the “hand box,” a clever little device for making a handkerchief disappear. It’s a small tin box, about the size and shape of a gentleman’s boot heel, completely closed except for the front, which is left open. (See Fig. 115.) One side has a steel spring attached, about an inch long. The free end of this spring forms a sort of clip with the side of the box, allowing it to be attached (as shown in the Figure) to the fleshy part of the hand, with the opening facing the fingers. Since it’s inside the hand, the audience can't see it. It’s used in much the same way as the hollow egg264 described in the previous trick, but the hand box is never shown. Once the handkerchief is securely held in place, the left hand is closed as though it contains it, making it seem to the audience like the handkerchief is just rolled up inside. When the hand is opened, the handkerchief has vanished, while the performer has plenty of time to drop the hidden handkerchief, box and all, into the pochette on their right side.

The hand box may be made available in a variety of ways, as follows: The performer having borrowed a handkerchief, secretly changes it for a substitute, which he leaves in full view on the table. Having made what disposition he pleases of the original, he returns, meanwhile placing the hand box in position, and causing by its means the disappearance of the substitute, orders the borrowed article to be found in such place as he may think proper.

The hand box can be provided in several ways, as follows: The performer, after borrowing a handkerchief, secretly swaps it for a substitute and leaves it visible on the table. After doing whatever he wants with the original, he returns, positions the hand box, and uses it to make the substitute disappear, then directs that the borrowed item be found wherever he deems appropriate.


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CHAPTER XII.
Domino and Dice Tricks.

To Arrange a Row of Dominoes face downwards on the Table, and on returning to the Room to turn up a Domino whose points shall indicate how many have been moved in your absence.—This is a capital drawing-room feat. You place a row of twenty dominoes face downwards upon the table, avoiding as far as possible the appearance of any special arrangement, but nevertheless taking care that the points of the first domino (commencing from the left) shall amount to twelve, the points of the second to eleven, and so on, each decreasing by one point till you reach the thirteenth, which will be the double-blank. The points of the remaining seven are a matter of indifference. You now propose to give the company a specimen of your powers of clairvoyance, and for that purpose leave the room, first requesting the company to remove during your absence any number of dominoes (not exceeding twelve) from the right to the left hand of the row, in other respects retaining their order. On your return you advance to the table, and address the company to the following effect: “Ladies and gentlemen, as I have already told you, I have the privilege of possessing the clairvoyant faculty, and I am about to give you a specimen of my powers. Now it would seem at first sight sufficiently surprising that I should be able merely to tell you the number of dominoes which have been moved in my absence, but that might be easily effected by confederacy, or many other very simple expedients. I propose to do much more than this, and to show you not only that I know the number that you have just displaced, but that I can read the dominoes before you as readily in their present position as though266 they were lying face upwards. For instance, this domino” (touching one of the row with your finger or wand) “represents the number which have been moved in my absence. Will some one please to say what that number was?” The answer is, we will suppose, “Seven.” “Seven,” you repeat, turning over the domino you have touched. “You see that I was right. Would you like me to name some more? They are all equally easy. This, let me see—yes, this is a two; this is a nine; this is a double-six; this is a double-blank;” turning over each domino to show that you have named it right.

Set up a row of dominoes face down on the table, and when you come back to the room, flip over a domino to see how many have been moved while you were gone.—This is a fantastic party trick. You lay out a row of twenty dominoes face down on the table, making sure they don’t look like they’re arranged in any specific way, but ensuring that the points on the first domino (starting from the left) add up to twelve, the second to eleven, and so on, decreasing by one point until you get to the thirteenth, which will be the double-blank. The points on the remaining seven don't really matter. Now, you’re going to show the guests your clairvoyant abilities, so you leave the room, asking everyone to remove any number of dominoes (no more than twelve) from the right to the left side of the row, while keeping the rest of the order. Upon your return, you approach the table and address the guests: “Ladies and gentlemen, as I’ve mentioned before, I have the privilege of having clairvoyant abilities, and I’m about to demonstrate them to you. It might seem surprising that I could simply tell you how many dominoes were moved while I was away, but that could easily be done with help from someone or through other simple means. I intend to do much more than that; I’ll show you that not only do I know how many were moved, but I can read the dominoes in front of you just as clearly in their current position as if they were face up. For example, this domino” (pointing to one in the row with your finger or wand) “shows the number of dominoes that have been moved while I was gone. Can someone tell me what that number was?” Let’s say the response is, “Seven.” “Seven,” you repeat, flipping over the domino you touched. “You see that I was correct. Would you like me to name some more? They’re all just as easy. This one—yes, this is two; this one is nine; this one is double-six; this one is double-blank;” turning over each domino to prove your accuracy.

This feat, which appears perfectly miraculous to the uninitiated, is performed by the simplest possible means. All that you have to do is to count secretly the row of dominoes as far as the thirteenth from the left-hand end, or (which is the same thing) the eighth from the right hand end, the points of which will invariably be the same as the number moved from the right to the left of the row. You do not know, until the domino is turned up, what that number actually was, but you must by no means let the audience suspect this. You must boldly assume to know the number, and from that knowledge, aided by some clairvoyant faculty, to have selected a domino whose points shall represent that number. Thus, having selected the proper domino, you call upon the audience to state the number moved, after which the turning up of the selected domino is regarded by the audience merely as a proof that you were correct in the previous knowledge for which they, without the smallest foundation, give you credit. After this domino has been turned up, it is easy, knowing the original order of the thirteen of which it forms one, to name two or three on either side of it. In most instances you will only know the total figure of a given domino, as two or three different combination of points will give the same total. (Thus a total of seven may be represented by either six and one, five and two, or four and three.) But there are two or three dominoes of which, if you know the total, you know the points also. Thus a total “twelve” must be always “double-six,” a “blank” always “double-blank,” a “one” always “blank one.” By naming one or two of these, as if hap-hazard, you will prevent the audience suspecting, as they otherwise might, that your knowledge is limited to the total of each domino.

This trick, which seems completely miraculous to those who don't know how it's done, is achieved using the simplest methods. All you need to do is secretly count the row of dominoes up to the thirteenth from the left, or the eighth from the right—these two numbers will always be the same as the number of spots on the domino moved from right to left. You won’t know what that number is until the domino is revealed, but you mustn’t let the audience catch on to this. You should confidently act like you know the number, and, with the help of some supposed clairvoyance, claim to have picked a domino that matches that number. After selecting the right domino, you ask the audience to announce the number that was moved; then, when you reveal the chosen domino, they will see it as confirmation of your earlier knowledge, which they, without any real reason, credit you for. Once the domino is turned over, it’s easy to name two or three on either side of it since you know the original arrangement of the thirteen from which it is one. In most cases, you’ll only know the total spots on a particular domino because multiple combinations can lead to the same total. (For example, a total of seven can come from six and one, five and two, or four and three.) However, there are a couple of dominoes where knowing the total also reveals the spots. So a total of “twelve” will always mean “double-six,” a “blank” will always mean “double-blank,” and a “one” will always mean “blank one.” By casually mentioning one or two of these, you’ll keep the audience from suspecting, as they might otherwise, that your knowledge is limited to just the total of each domino.

It is obvious that this is a trick which cannot be repeated, as the267 necessary rearrangement of the dominoes would at once attract attention. You may, however, volunteer to repeat it in a still more surprising form, really performing in its place the trick next following, one of the best, though also one of the simplest, in the whole range of the magic art.

It’s clear that this is a trick that can’t be done again, since rearranging the dominoes would immediately draw attention. However, you can choose to perform it in an even more surprising way, actually doing the next trick, which is one of the best, though also one of the simplest, in the entire world of magic.

To allow any Person in your absence to arrange the Dominoes in a Row, face downwards, and on your return to name blindfold, or without entering the Room, the end numbers of the Row.—You invite the audience to select any one of their number to arrange the whole of the dominoes face downwards upon the table. This he may do in any manner he pleases, the only restriction being that he is to arrange them after the fashion of the game of dominoes—viz., so that a six shall be coupled with a six, and a four with a four, and so on. While he does this, you leave the room, and, on being recalled, you at once pronounce, either blindfold, or (if the audience prefer it) without even entering the room, that the extreme end numbers of the row are six and five, five and two, etc., as the case may be.

While you're away, allow someone to set up the Dominoes in a Row, face down. When you return, try to guess the end numbers of the Row without looking at them or even stepping into the Room.—You ask the audience to choose someone from their group to arrange all the dominoes face down on the table. They can do this however they like, the only rule being that they must set them up like in the game of dominoes—meaning a six goes with a six, a four with a four, and so on. While they do this, you leave the room, and when you’re called back, you immediately state, either blindfolded or (if the audience prefers) without even entering the room, that the end numbers of the row are six and five, five and two, etc., depending on the situation.

This seeming marvel depends upon a very simple principle. It will be found by experiment that a complete set of dominoes, arranged in a row according to domino rules (i.e., like numbers together), will invariably have the same number at each end. Thus if the final number at one end of the row be five, that at the opposite end will be five also, and so on; so that the twenty-eight dominoes, arranged as above, form numerically an endless chain, or circle. If this circle be broken by the removal of any domino, the numbers on either side of the gap thus made will be the same as those of the missing domino. Thus, if you take away a “five-three,” the chain thus broken will terminate at one end with a five, and at the other with a three. This is the whole secret of the trick: the performer secretly abstracts one domino, say the “five-three;” this renders it a matter of certainty that the row to be formed with the remaining dominoes will terminate with a five at the one end and a three at the other, and so on with any other domino of two unequal numbers.

This apparent wonder is based on a very simple principle. If you experiment, you'll find that a complete set of dominoes, lined up in a row according to domino rules (i.e., matching numbers together), will always have the same number at both ends. So, if the last number at one end of the row is five, the number at the other end will also be five, and this pattern continues. Therefore, the twenty-eight dominoes, arranged this way, create a numerical endless chain or circle. If this circle is broken by removing any domino, the numbers on either side of the gap will match those on the missing domino. For instance, if you take out a "five-three," the broken chain will end with a five on one side and a three on the other. This is the entire secret of the trick: the performer discreetly removes one domino, say the "five-three;" as a result, it's guaranteed that the row created with the remaining dominoes will end with a five on one end and a three on the other, and this applies to any other domino with two different numbers.

The domino abstracted must not be a “double,” or the trick268 will fail. A little consideration will show why this is the case. The removal of a double from the endless chain we have mentioned produces no break in the chain, as the numbers on each side of the gap, being alike, will coalesce; and a row formed with the remaining dominoes under such conditions may be made to terminate in any number, such number being, however, alike at either end. A domino of two different numbers, on the other hand, being removed, “forces,” so to speak, the series made with the remainder to terminate with those particular numbers.

The domino that is removed must not be a “double,” or the trick268 will not work. A little thought will explain why this is true. Removing a double from the endless chain we mentioned doesn’t break the chain because the numbers on either side of the gap are the same and will merge. A row formed with the remaining dominoes under these conditions can end in any number, but that number must be the same at both ends. On the other hand, if a domino with two different numbers is removed, it “forces,” so to speak, the remaining series to end with those specific numbers.

Fig. 116.

To Change, invisibly, the Numbers shown on either Face of a Pair of Dice.—Take a pair of ordinary dice, and so place them between the first finger and thumb of the right hand (see Fig. 116), that the uppermost shall show the “one,” and the lowermost the “three” point, while the “one” point of the latter and the “three” point of the former are at right angles to those first named, and concealed by the ball of the thumb. (The enlargement at a in the figure shows clearly the proper position.) Ask someone to name aloud the points which are in sight, and to state particularly, for the information of the company, which point is uppermost. This having been satisfactorily ascertained, you announce that you are able, by simply passing a finger over the faces of the dice, to make the points change places. So saying, gently rub the exposed faces of the dice with the forefinger of the left hand, and, on again removing the finger, the points are found to have changed places, the “three” being now uppermost, and the “one” undermost. This effect is produced by a slight movement of the thumb and finger of the right hand in the act of bringing the hands together, the thumb being moved slightly forward, and the finger slightly back. This causes the two dice to make a quarter-turn vertically on their own axis, bringing into view269 the side which has hitherto been concealed by the ball of the thumb, while the side previously in sight is in turn hidden by the middle finger. A reverse movement, of course, replaces the dice in their original position. The action of bringing the hands together, for the supposed purpose of rubbing the dice with the opposite forefinger, completely covers the smaller movement of the thumb and finger.

To change, without being noticed, the numbers displayed on either side of a pair of dice.—Take a pair of regular dice, and position them between the index finger and thumb of your right hand (see Fig. 116), so that the top die shows a “one” and the bottom die shows a “three,” with the “one” of the lower die and the “three” of the upper die at right angles to the previously mentioned points and hidden by the ball of your thumb. (The enlargement at a in the figure clearly indicates the correct position.) Ask someone to call out the points they can see and specifically mention which point is on top for the group's benefit. Once this has been established, you claim that you can make the points swap places just by moving a finger over the faces of the dice. While saying this, gently rub the visible faces of the dice with the index finger of your left hand, and when you remove your finger, you'll find that the points have switched, with the “three” now on top and the “one” on the bottom. This effect is achieved by a slight movement of the thumb and finger of your right hand as you bring your hands together, with the thumb moving slightly forward and the finger pulling back a bit. This causes the two dice to make a quarter-turn vertically on their own axis, revealing the side that was previously hidden by the ball of the thumb, while the side that was visible is now covered by the middle finger. A reverse movement will, of course, return the dice to their original position. The action of bringing the hands together, supposedly to rub the dice with the other index finger, completely masks the small movement of the thumb and finger.

Fig. 117.

After having exhibited the trick in this form once or twice, you may vary your mode of operation. For this purpose take the dice (still retaining their relative position) horizontally between the thumb and second finger, in the manner depicted in Fig. 117, showing “three-one” on their upper face; the corresponding “three-one,” or rather “one-three,” being now covered by the forefinger. As the points on the opposite faces of a die invariably together amount to seven, it is obvious that the points on the under side will now be “four-six,” while the points next to the ball of the thumb will be “six-four.” You show, alternately raising and lowering the hand, that the points above are “three-one,” and those below “six-four.” Again going through the motion of rubbing the dice with the opposite forefinger, you slightly raise the thumb and depress the middle finger, which will bring the “six-four” uppermost, and the “three-one” or “one-three” undermost. This maybe repeated any number of times; or you may, by moving the thumb and finger accordingly, produce either “three-one” or “six-four” apparently both above and below the dice.

After showing the trick like this once or twice, you can change your method. To do this, hold the dice (keeping them in the same position) horizontally between your thumb and index finger, showing “three-one” on the top face; the corresponding “three-one,” or rather “one-three,” is now covered by your index finger. Since the points on opposite sides of a die always add up to seven, it’s clear that the points on the bottom will now be “four-six,” while the points next to the ball of your thumb will be “six-four.” You show this by alternately raising and lowering your hand, indicating that the points above are “three-one” and those below are “six-four.” Again mimicking the motion of rubbing the dice with your other index finger, you slightly lift your thumb and press down your middle finger, which will bring “six-four” to the top and “three-one” or “one-three” to the bottom. You can repeat this any number of times, or you can move your thumb and finger to make it look like either “three-one” or “six-four” is apparently on both the top and bottom of the dice.

The trick may, of course, be varied as regards the particular points, but the dice must, in any case, be so placed as to have similar points on two adjoining faces.

The trick can, of course, be modified regarding the specific points, but the dice must, in any case, be positioned so that they have matching points on two adjacent faces.

To Name, without seeing them, the Points of a Pair of Dice.—This is a mere arithmetical recreation, but it is so good that270 we cannot forbear to notice it. You ask the person who threw the dice to choose which of them he likes, multiply its points by two, add five to the product, multiply the sum so obtained by five, and add the points of the remaining die. On his telling you the result, you mentally subtract twenty-five from it, when the remainder will be a number of two figures, each representing the points of one of the dice.

To name, without looking at them, the faces of a pair of dice.—This is just a simple arithmetic game, but it's so good that 270 we can't resist mentioning it. You ask the person who rolled the dice to pick one of them, double the number of points on that die, add five to the total, multiply the new sum by five, and then add the points on the other die. When they tell you the final number, you mentally subtract twenty-five from it, and the result will be a two-digit number, each digit representing the points of one die.

Thus, suppose the throws to be five, two. Five multiplied by two are ten; add five, fifteen, which, multiplied by five, is seventy-five, to which two (the points of the remaining die) being added, the total is seventy-seven. If from this you mentally deduct twenty-five, the remainder is fifty-two, giving the points of the two dice—five and two. But, you will say, suppose the person who threw had reversed the arithmetical process, and had taken the points of the second die (two) as his multiplicand, the result must have been different. Let us try the experiment. Twice two are four, five added make nine, which, multiplied by five, is forty-five, and five (the points of the other die) being added to it, bring the total up to fifty. From this subtract twenty-five as before. The remainder, twenty-five, again gives the points of the two dice, but in the reverse order; and the same result will follow, whatever the throws may be.

So, let's say the rolls are five and two. Multiply five by two, which gives you ten; add five, and you get fifteen. Multiply that by five, and you have seventy-five. Then, add the two (the points on the other die), bringing the total to seventy-seven. If you mentally subtract twenty-five from this, you're left with fifty-two, which represents the points on the two dice—five and two. But you might wonder, what if the person who rolled reversed the math and took the points from the second die (two) as the multiplier? Would the result be different? Let’s find out. Twice two is four; add five and you get nine, which multiplied by five equals forty-five. Then, adding the five (the points from the other die), you bring the total to fifty. If you subtract twenty-five like before, you're left with twenty-five, which again represents the points of the two dice, but in reverse order. The same outcome will happen no matter what the rolls are.


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CHAPTER XIII.
The Cups and Balls Game.

The subject of the present chapter may be said to be the groundwork of all legerdemain, being, we believe, the very earliest form in which sleight-of-hand was exhibited. At the present day it is not very often seen, save in the bastard form known as “thimble-rig,” and used as a means of fleecing the unwary upon race-courses and at country fairs. It is, however, well worthy the attention of the student of modern magic, not only as affording an excellent course of training in digital dexterity, but as being, in the hands of an adept, most striking in effect. It is by no means uncommon to find spectators who have received more elaborate feats with comparative indifference, become interested, and even enthusiastic, over a brilliant manipulation of the cups and balls.

The topic of this chapter is the foundation of all magic tricks, which we think is the earliest way sleight-of-hand was shown. Nowadays, it's not often seen except in the less sophisticated version called "thimble-rig," often used to trick unsuspecting people at racetracks and fairs. However, it’s definitely worth the attention of anyone studying modern magic, as it provides excellent training in fine motor skills and, when executed by a skilled performer, can be very impressive. It's quite common for audiences who have seen more complex tricks to become intrigued and even excited by a captivating performance of the cups and balls.

The prestige of the illusion is heightened by the simplicity of the appliances used, consisting merely of three tin cups about three inches high, each in the form of a truncated cone, with a rim or shoulder round the base (see Fig. 118), the ordinary wand, four little cork balls, three-quarters of an inch or a little less in diameter, and blackened in the flame of a candle, three larger balls of about an inch and a quarter in diameter, and four more of such a size as to just fill the goblet. These last are generally stuffed with hair, and covered with cloth. The number of balls may vary according to the particular “passes” which the performer desires to exhibit, but the above will be found sufficient for most purposes. The performers of the olden time were accustomed to use the gibecière, or apron with pockets, already mentioned, and to perform at a table having no speciality, save that it was a little higher than those in ordinary use; but272 at the present day the gibecière is entirely discarded, the servante of the table answering the same purpose. The arrangement of the table and apparatus is shown in Fig. 118.

The allure of the illusion is enhanced by the simplicity of the tools used, which are just three tin cups about three inches tall, each shaped like a truncated cone with a rim or shoulder at the base (see Fig. 118). There's the standard wand, four small cork balls that are nearly three-quarters of an inch in diameter and blackened in a candle flame, three larger balls measuring about an inch and a quarter in diameter, and four more that just fit the goblet. These last ones are usually stuffed with hair and covered with cloth. The number of balls can vary depending on the specific “moves” the performer wants to showcase, but the ones listed above will generally be enough for most acts. Performers in the past typically used the gibecière, or pocketed apron, as mentioned earlier, and performed at a table that was somewhat higher than standard tables; however, nowadays, the gibecière is completely out of use, with the servante of the table serving the same function. The setup of the table and equipment is shown in Fig. 118.

The whole art of cup-and-ball conjuring resolves itself into two elements—(1), the exhibition of a ball under a cup where a moment previously there was nothing; and (2) the disappearance of a ball from beneath a cup under which the audience have just seen it (or believe that they have seen it) placed. The routine is as follows:—A cup is lifted, to show that there is nothing beneath it, and again replaced, mouth downwards, on the table. A ball is taken in the right hand, transferred to the left, and thence ordered to pass under the cup. The hand is opened, the ball has vanished, and, on the cup being lifted, is found beneath it. Again, the ball, first exhibited in the right hand, is thence openly transferred, either directly under the cup, or first to the left hand, and thence to the cup. All having seen it placed beneath the cup, it is now commanded to depart, and on again lifting the cup, it is found to have vanished. It will hardly be believed, until proved by experiment, of what numerous and surprising combinations these simple elements are capable.

The whole art of cup-and-ball magic breaks down into two main parts—(1) showing a ball under a cup where just a moment before there was nothing; and (2) making a ball disappear from under a cup where the audience just saw it (or thinks they saw it) placed. The routine goes like this: A cup is lifted to show that nothing is underneath, then it's placed back down on the table, mouth down. A ball is picked up with the right hand, moved to the left hand, and then is said to go under the cup. The hand is opened, the ball has vanished, and when the cup is lifted, it is found underneath. Again, the ball, shown first in the right hand, is openly moved either directly under the cup, or first to the left hand and then to the cup. With everyone having seen it placed under the cup, it's now commanded to disappear, and upon lifting the cup again, it is found to have vanished. It’s hard to believe, until actually demonstrated, how many surprising combinations these simple elements can create.

Fig. 118.

The sleight-of-hand requisite for the cups and balls is technically divisible into four different acts or movements, viz.—1. To “palm” the ball. 2. To reproduce the palmed ball at the end of the fingers. 3. To secretly introduce the palmed ball under the cup. 4. To simulate the action of placing the ball under the cup. The modes of effecting these objects will be discussed in due order.

The tricks needed for the cups and balls can be broken down into four different actions or movements: 1. To “palm” the ball. 2. To show the palmed ball at the tips of the fingers. 3. To secretly place the palmed ball under the cup. 4. To pretend to put the ball under the cup. The methods for performing these actions will be discussed in order.

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Fig. 119.
Fig. 120.
Fig. 121.

1. To Palm the Ball. First Method.—We use the generic term “palm” for the sake of convenience, though in this first method, which is that most generally used, the ball is really concealed between the second and third fingers, and not in the palm. Take the ball between the first finger and thumb of the right hand; slightly bend the fingers (see Fig. 119), and at the same moment roll the ball with the thumb across the first and second fingers, till it rests between the second and third fingers (see Fig. 120), which should slightly separate to receive it, again closing as soon as it is safely lodged. The ball will now be as shown in Fig. 121, and it will be found that the hand can be opened or closed with perfect freedom, and, indeed, be used in any manner, without being in the least hampered by its presence. The student should practise palming the ball in this manner both in the act of (apparently) transferring the ball to the left hand, and in that of (apparently) placing it under a cup lifted by the left hand for that purpose.

1. To palm the ball. First Method.—We use the term “palm” for convenience, but in this first method, which is the most commonly used, the ball is actually hidden between the second and third fingers, not in the palm. Hold the ball between the index finger and thumb of your right hand; slightly bend your fingers (see Fig. 119), and at the same time, roll the ball with your thumb across the index and middle fingers until it sits between the second and third fingers (see Fig. 120), which should slightly separate to catch it, then close again as soon as it’s securely in place. The ball will now be as shown in Fig. 121, and you’ll find that your hand can open and close with complete freedom and can indeed be used in any way without being restricted by the ball's presence. The student should practice palming the ball this way both while (apparently) transferring the ball to the left hand and while (apparently) placing it under a cup that the left hand is holding for that purpose.

Second Method.—The second method is to actually “palm” the ball, in the same manner as a coin. For this purpose the ball is, as before, taken between the first finger and thumb of the right hand, but is thence made by the thumb to274 roll between the tips of the third and fourth fingers, which immediately close into the palm, and, again opening, leave the ball behind them. With a little practice, two balls in succession may be palmed in this way, and then a third by the first method.

Second Method.—The second method involves actually “palming” the ball, like you would with a coin. To do this, hold the ball between your thumb and index finger of your right hand, and then let it roll between the tips of your ring and pinky fingers, which quickly close into your palm. When you open your fingers again, the ball will be left behind. With some practice, you can palm two balls in a row this way, and then a third one using the first method.

Fig. 122.

Third Method.—The third method is that which was adopted by the celebrated Bosco, a most accomplished performer with the cup and balls. Being accustomed to use balls of a larger size than those above described, and therefore too bulky to palm by the first method, he used to hold them by means of a slight contraction of the little finger. (See Fig. 122.) The necessary movement of the fingers to place the ball in position is nearly the same as by the first method.

Third Method.—The third method is the one used by the famous Bosco, a highly skilled performer with the cup and balls. Since he preferred larger balls than those mentioned earlier, which were too big to conceal using the first method, he used a slight contraction of the little finger to hold them. (See Fig. 122.) The finger movements needed to position the ball are nearly the same as in the first method.

Fig. 123.

2. To Reproduce the Palmed Ball at the End of the Fingers.—The mode of doing this will vary according to the method by which the ball is palmed. If according to the first or third method, the ball is simply rolled back to the finger-tips with the ball of the thumb, exactly reversing the process by which it was palmed. But if the ball was palmed by the second method, it is, for the time being, not get-at-able by the ball of the thumb. In this case the first step is to close the third and fourth fingers upon the ball (see Fig. 123), and therewith roll it to the position shown in Fig. 122, when the thumb is enabled to reach it, and to roll it to the finger-tips in the manner just described.

2. To perform the Palmed Ball at your fingertips.—The way to do this will depend on the method used to palm the ball. If using the first or third method, simply roll the ball back to the fingertips using the ball of the thumb, which reverses the process of palming it. However, if the ball was palmed using the second method, it can’t be accessed by the ball of the thumb for now. In this case, the first step is to close the third and fourth fingers around the ball (see Fig. 123), and then roll it to the position shown in Fig. 122, allowing the thumb to reach it and roll it to the fingertips as described above.

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Fig. 124.

3. To Secretly Introduce the Palmed Ball under the Cup.—This is always done in the act of raising the cup (with the right hand), for the ostensible purpose of showing that there is nothing underneath it. The chief thing to be attended to is the position of the right hand (in which we are supposing a ball to be palmed by one or other of the methods above mentioned) in raising the cup. This should be done with the hand spread almost flat upon the table, and grasping the cup as low down as possible, between the thumb and the lowest joint of the forefinger. In the act of raising the cup, the fingers naturally assume the position shown in Fig. 124, whereby the ball is brought in close proximity to, and slightly under, the edge of the cup. If the ball be palmed by the first method, all that is necessary in order to release it is a slight backward movement of the second, and a forward movement of the third finger, made just before the cup again touches the table. This will be found to drop the ball immediately under the cup. If the ball be palmed by the third method, its introduction under the cup is a still easier matter, as by the act of raising the cup it is brought directly underneath it, and is released by the mere act of straightening the third and fourth fingers. If the ball is palmed by the second method, it becomes necessary, before taking hold of the cup, to close the third and fourth fingers slightly (see Fig. 123), and bring the ball to the position shown in Fig. 122. From this point the operation is the same as if the ball had been originally palmed by the third method.

3. To discreetly place the hidden ball under the cup.—This is always done while raising the cup (with the right hand) to supposedly show that there's nothing underneath it. The key thing to focus on is the position of the right hand (which is assumed to be holding a ball by one of the methods mentioned above) when lifting the cup. This should be done with the hand spread flat on the table, holding the cup as low as possible, between the thumb and the lowest joint of the forefinger. As you raise the cup, the fingers naturally position themselves as shown in Fig. 124, bringing the ball close to and slightly under the edge of the cup. If the ball is palmed by the first method, all you need to do to release it is a slight backward movement of the second finger and a forward movement of the third finger, just before the cup touches the table again. This will drop the ball immediately under the cup. If the ball is palmed by the third method, getting it under the cup is even easier, as raising the cup brings it right underneath it, and it’s released just by straightening the third and fourth fingers. If the ball is palmed by the second method, you need to slightly close the third and fourth fingers first (see Fig. 123), bringing the ball to the position shown in Fig. 122. From there, the operation is the same as if the ball had been originally palmed by the third method.

Fig. 125.

It is sometimes necessary to introduce a ball between two cups. It will be remembered that each cup is made with a cylindrical rim or shoulder. The purpose of this shoulder is that, when two cups are placed one upon the other (see Fig. 125), there may be a space between them sufficient to receive a ball or balls. To further facilitate the introduction of the ball, the top of each cup is made, not276 flat, but concave. When it is desired to introduce a ball between two cups, that object is effected as follows:—Having the ball ready palmed in the right hand, the performer takes up a cup in the same hand, and with it covers the second cup, at the same moment introducing the ball beneath it in the ordinary manner, but with the addition of a little upward jerk, rather difficult to describe, but easily acquired with a little practice. The ball is thereby thrown to the top of the uppermost cup, and, in again falling, is received by the concave top of the lowermost cup.

Sometimes you need to place a ball between two cups. Each cup has a cylindrical rim or shoulder. This shoulder allows for a gap when two cups are stacked on top of each other (see Fig. 125) that can hold a ball or balls. To make it easier to place the ball, the top of each cup is designed to be concave instead of flat. When you want to put a ball between two cups, here's how to do it: Keep the ball ready in your right hand, grab one cup with the same hand, and cover the second cup while simultaneously placing the ball underneath it in the usual way. You should also do a small upward flick, which is somewhat tricky to explain but can be learned with a bit of practice. This motion will send the ball to the top of the upper cup, and as it falls, it will land in the concave top of the lower cup.

4. To Simulate the Action of Placing a Ball under a Cup.—This may be done in two ways. The first is to raise the cup with the left hand, apparently placing the ball underneath it with the right, but really palming it. Care must be taken that the edge of the cup shall touch the table at the very moment that the fingers of the right hand are removed. The second and more common method is to apparently transfer the ball to the left hand, palming it in the transit, and then bringing the closed left hand close to the cup on the table, raise the cup with the other hand, and immediately replace it with a sort of scraping movement across the fingers of the now opening left hand.

4. To Simulate the Action of Putting a Ball Under a Cup.—There are two ways to do this. The first is to lift the cup with your left hand while making it look like you're putting the ball underneath it with your right hand, but you’re actually hiding it in your palm. Make sure that the edge of the cup touches the table exactly when you lift your fingers from the ball. The second, and more common method, is to seem like you’re moving the ball to your left hand while secretly hiding it during the switch. Then, bring your closed left hand close to the cup on the table, lift the cup with the other hand, and quickly replace it with a kind of scraping motion across the fingers of your now opening left hand.

When the student has thoroughly mastered the various operations above described, he will have little to learn save the combination of the various Passes, a matter of memory only. There are, however, one or two subordinate sleights with which he should make himself acquainted before proceeding publicly to exhibit his dexterity.

When the student has fully mastered the different operations mentioned above, they will have little left to learn except for the combination of the various Passes, which is just a matter of memory. However, there are one or two additional techniques that they should familiarize themselves with before publicly demonstrating their skills.

Fig. 126.

To Produce a Ball from the Wand.—The wand is supposed to be the reservoir whence the magician produces his store of balls, and into which they vanish when no longer needed. The mode of production is as follows:—The performer, holding the wand in his left hand, and drawing attention to it by some remark as to its mysterious power of production and absorption, secretly takes with his right hand, from the servante or elsewhere, a ball, which he immediately palms (preferably by the first method). Daintily holding the277 wand by either end with the left hand, in such manner as to show that the hand is otherwise empty, he slides the thumb and fingers of the right hand (the back of which is naturally towards the audience) lightly to the opposite end, at the same moment rolling the ball with the thumb to the ends of the fingers, as already described. (See Fig. 126.) The ball thus comes in sight just as the hand leaves the wand, the effect to the eyes of the spectators being that the ball is, by some mysterious process, squeezed out of the wand.

To Create a Ball from the Wand.—The wand is thought to be the source from which the magician creates his supply of balls, and into which they disappear when they're no longer needed. The process of production works like this: The performer, holding the wand in his left hand and drawing attention to it with a comment about its mysterious power of creating and absorbing, secretly takes a ball with his right hand from the servante or another spot, which he immediately palms (ideally using the first method). Elegantly holding the277 wand by either end with his left hand, showing that the hand is empty, he gently slides the thumb and fingers of the right hand (the back of which is naturally facing the audience) to the opposite end, while at the same time rolling the ball with his thumb to the tips of his fingers, as previously described. (See Fig. 126.) The ball becomes visible just as the hand leaves the wand, creating the illusion for the spectators that the ball is, through some mysterious method, squeezed out of the wand.

To Return a Ball into the Wand.—This is the converse of the process last described. Taking the wand in the left hand, as before, and the ball between the thumb and second joint of the forefinger of the opposite hand, the performer lays the end of the wand across the tips of the fingers, and draws the hand gently downwards along it, at the same time palming the ball by the first method.

To Hit a Ball Back into the Wand.—This is the opposite of the process described earlier. Hold the wand in your left hand, as before, and place the ball between your thumb and the second joint of your index finger on the other hand. The performer rests the end of the wand across the tips of the fingers and gently pulls the hand down along it while simultaneously palming the ball using the first method.

To Pass one Cup through another.—This is an effective sleight, and by no means difficult of acquirement. Taking one of the cups, mouth upwards, in the left hand, and holding another in a similar position in the right hand, about a foot above it, the performer drops the right hand cup smartly into that in the left hand (which latter should be held very lightly). If this is neatly done, the lower cup will be knocked out of the hand by the concussion, while the upper one will be caught and held in its place; the effect to the eye of the spectator being as if the upper cup had passed through the other. The lower cup may either be allowed to fall on the ground or table, or may be caught by the right hand in its fall.

To pass one cup through another.—This is a clever trick that isn’t hard to learn. Take one of the cups, open side up, in your left hand, and hold another cup in the same position with your right hand, about a foot above it. The performer drops the right-hand cup into the left-hand cup with some force (the left hand should hold it lightly). If done correctly, the lower cup will fly out of your hand due to the impact, while the upper cup remains in place; to the spectator, it looks like the upper cup has passed through the lower one. You can either let the lower cup drop to the ground or table, or catch it with your right hand as it falls.

278 The successive appearances and disappearances of the balls underneath the cups are known by the name of “Passes;” the particular combination of such passes being governed by the taste and invention of the performer. The series most generally in use is derived from a work dating from the last century, the Récréations Mathématiques et Physiques of Guyot; and Guyot, we believe, borrowed it from a German source. The series given below, which will be found very effective, is derived mainly from that of Guyot, as improved by Ponsin, a later and very ingenious writer on the art of prestidigitation.

278 The repeated appearances and disappearances of the balls under the cups are called “Passes;” the specific combination of these passes is determined by the performer’s style and creativity. The series most commonly used comes from an 18th-century work, Récréations Mathématiques et Physiques by Guyot; and Guyot likely borrowed it from a German source. The series listed below, which is quite effective, is primarily based on Guyot’s work, enhanced by Ponsin, a later and very clever author on the art of sleight of hand.

The cups and balls require, even more than conjuring generally, a running accompaniment of talk. Each Pass should have its own “boniment,” or “patter,” carefully prepared and frequently rehearsed. It would be impossible to give, within any reasonable limits, appropriate patter for each of the Passes. This each performer must arrange for himself, so as to suit the style and character in which he performs; as it is obvious that the low comedy style of a mountebank at a country fair would be utterly unsuitable in an aristocratic drawing-room, and vice versâ. We shall, however, give a specimen or two in the course of the various Passes. The burlesque introduction next following is a paraphrase of a similar address quoted by Robert-Houdin:—

The cups and balls need, even more than most types of magic, a constant flow of talk. Each move should have its own “boniment,” or “patter,” that’s carefully prepared and often practiced. It would be impossible to provide suitable patter for each of the moves within any reasonable limits. Each performer has to come up with their own to match their style and the vibe of their performance; clearly, the lighthearted style of a street performer at a county fair wouldn’t work in a fancy drawing-room, and vice versâ. However, we’ll offer a couple of examples throughout the various moves. The humorous introduction that follows is a reworking of a similar speech quoted by Robert-Houdin:—

Introductory Address.—“Ladies and Gentlemen,—In an age so enlightened as our own, it is really surprising to see how many popular fallacies spring up from day to day, and are accepted by the public mind as unchangeable laws of nature.

Introductory Address.—“Ladies and Gentlemen,—In a time as advanced as ours, it's genuinely surprising how many popular misconceptions arise daily and are embraced by the public as if they were unchangeable laws of nature.

“Among these fallacies there is one which I propose at once to point out to you, and which I flatter myself I shall very easily dispose of. Many people have asserted, and, among others, the celebrated Erasmus of Rotterdam, that a material object can only be in one place at one time. Now I maintain, on the contrary, that any object may be in several places at the same moment, and that it is equally possible that it may be nowhere at all.

“Among these misconceptions, there is one that I want to highlight right away, and I believe I can easily address it. Many people, including the famous Erasmus of Rotterdam, have claimed that a physical object can only exist in one place at a time. However, I argue that any object can be in multiple places simultaneously, and it’s also possible for it to be nowhere at all.”

“I must beg you to observe, in the first place, that I have nothing in my hands—except my fingers; and that between my fingers there is nothing save a few atoms of the mysterious fluid which we call the atmosphere, and through which our jolly old Earth spins so merrily279 along. But we must leave the common-place regions of astronomy, and return to the mysteries of hermetic science.

“I have to point out, first of all, that I have nothing in my hands—except for my fingers; and that between my fingers, there’s nothing but a few particles of the mysterious substance we call the atmosphere, which allows our cheerful old Earth to spin along so happily279. But let's step away from the everyday topics of astronomy and get back to the mysteries of hermetic science."

“I have before me, as you will have noticed, three little cups or goblets. The metal of which these are composed is an amalgam of costly minerals, unknown even to the most profound philosophers. This mysterious composition, which resembles silver in its solidity, its colour, and the clearness of its ring, has over silver this great advantage, that it will at pleasure become impalpable as air, so that solid bodies pass through these goblets as easily as they would through empty space. I will give you a curious illustration of this by making one goblet pass through another.” (This the performer does in the manner already described, and after a moment’s pause, continues, taking up his wand in his left hand, and secretly palming a ball in his right.) “This little wand, you are possibly aware, ladies and gentlemen, goes by the name of Jacob’s Rod. Why it is so called I really don’t know; I only know that this simple-looking wand has the faculty of producing various articles at pleasure. For instance, I require for the purpose of my experiment a little ball. My wand at once supplies me.” (He produces a ball from the wand, and lays it on the table.)

“I have in front of me, as you might have noticed, three small cups or goblets. The metal they’re made from is a blend of rare minerals, even unknown to the most knowledgeable philosophers. This mysterious material, which is similar to silver in its strength, color, and the clarity of its sound, has this major advantage over silver: it can, at will, become as light as air, allowing solid objects to pass through these goblets just as easily as they would through empty space. I’ll give you an interesting demonstration of this by making one goblet pass through another.” (The performer demonstrates this as described earlier, and after a brief pause, continues, picking up his wand in his left hand while secretly palming a ball in his right.) “This little wand, as you might know, is called Jacob’s Rod. Why it has this name, I really can’t say; I just know that this seemingly simple wand has the ability to produce various items at will. For example, I need a small ball for my experiment. My wand instantly provides it.” (He takes a ball from the wand and places it on the table.)

With this or some similar introduction, the performer proceeds to exhibit

With this or a similar introduction, the performer goes on to show

Pass I. Having Placed a Ball under each Cup, to draw it out again without Lifting the Cup.—Having produced a ball from the wand as last described, and having laid it on the table, the operator continues,—“Allow me to show you once more that all the cups are empty” (he raises them one by one, and replaces them), “and that I have nothing in either of my hands. I take this little ball” (he picks it up with the right hand, and apparently transfers it to the left, really palming it in the right), “and place it under one of the cups.” Here he raises the cup with the right hand, and simulates the action of placing the ball under it with the left. “I draw another ball from my wand” (this is really the same ball, which remained palmed in the right hand), “and place it in like manner under the second cup.” He goes through the motion of transferring it to the left hand and thence to the cup, as before, but this time280 actually does what on the former occasion he only pretended to do, and leaves the ball under the middle cup. “I produce another ball”—(he half draws the wand through his fingers, but checks himself half-way). “I think I heard some one assert that I have a ball already in my hand. Pray satisfy yourselves” (showing the palms of his hands, the fingers carelessly apart) “that such is not the case. A lady suggested just now, by the way—it was only said in a whisper, but I heard it—that I didn’t really put the balls under the cup. It was rather sharp on the part of the lady, but you see she was wrong. Here are the balls.”K So saying, the performer lifts up the middle cup with his left hand, and picking up the ball with his right, holds it up that all may see, immediately replacing it under the same cup. The last movement is simulated only, the ball being in reality palmed in the supposed act of placing it under the cup. “We have now a ball under each of these two cups. We only want one more, and—here it is”—apparently producing a third ball (really the same again) from the wand. “We will place it under this last cup.” He actually does so. “Now, ladies and gentlemen, we have three cups and three balls, one under each cup. So far, I admit that I have not shown you anything very surprising, but now comes the puzzle, to take the balls from under the cups. Perhaps some of you sharp gentlemen will say there isn’t much difficulty in that. Lift the cup, and pick up the ball!” He suits the action to the word, lifting up the third goblet with the left hand, and picking up the ball with the right. “A very good solution, but it doesn’t happen to be the right one. The problem is to draw out the balls without lifting the cups.” Here he replaces the cup, apparently placing the ball beneath it, but really palming it, as already described in the case of the middle cup, and then returns to the first or furthest cup; touching the top of the281 goblet, he lets the palmed ball drop to his finger-tips, and immediately exhibits it, saying—“This is the way I take the balls out of the cups. The ball being no longer needed, I return it into the wand.” This he does as described at page 277, immediately afterwards, if desired, handing the wand for examination. “In like manner I draw out the second ball” (he repeats the same process with the middle goblet), “and pass that also into my wand. I need not even handle the goblets. See, I merely touch this third goblet with my wand, and the ball instantly appears on the top.” The company, of course, cannot see any ball on the end of the wand, but a ball is nevertheless taken thence by the process already described, of letting the palmed ball drop to the tips of the fingers, as they come in contact with the wand. “I pass this also into my wand. Stay, though, on second thoughts, I shall want a ball for my next experiment, so I will leave it here on the table.”

Pass I. With a ball placed under each cup, draw it out again without lifting the cup.—After producing a ball from the wand as described earlier and placing it on the table, the magician continues, “Let me show you once more that all the cups are empty” (he raises them one by one and puts them back down), “and that I have nothing in either of my hands. I take this little ball” (he picks it up with his right hand and pretends to transfer it to his left, but actually keeps it hidden in his right), “and put it under one of the cups.” Then he raises a cup with his right hand and pretends to place the ball under it with his left. “I draw another ball from my wand” (this is actually the same ball that remained hidden in his right hand), “and place it in the same way under the second cup.” He mimics transferring it to his left hand and then to the cup, but this time280 he actually puts the ball under the middle cup. “I produce another ball”—(he half draws the wand through his fingers but stops himself halfway). “I think I heard someone claim that I already have a ball in my hand. Please check” (showing the palms of his hands, fingers casually spread) “to see that this is not true. A lady just suggested—in a whisper, I might add—that I didn’t actually put the balls under the cup. It was clever of her, but you see she was mistaken. Here are the balls.”K With that, the performer lifts the middle cup with his left hand, picks up the ball with his right, and holds it up for everyone to see, then immediately puts it back under the same cup. This last action is just a simulation; the ball is still hidden in his hand during the supposed placement under the cup. “We now have a ball under each of these two cups. We just need one more, and—here it is”—apparently producing a third ball (which is really the same one again) from the wand. “We’ll place it under this last cup.” He actually does this. “Now, ladies and gentlemen, we have three cups and three balls, one under each cup. So far, I admit I haven’t shown you anything very remarkable, but now comes the trick: to take the balls from under the cups. Some of you clever gentlemen might say there isn’t much challenge in that. Lift the cup, and pick up the ball!” He demonstrates, lifting the third cup with his left hand and picking up the ball with his right. “A very good solution, but it’s not the right one. The trick is to draw out the balls without lifting the cups.” He sets the cup back down, pretending to place the ball underneath it, but actually palming it, as he did earlier with the middle cup, and then returns to the first or farthest cup; touching the top of the281 cup, he lets the hidden ball drop to his fingertips and immediately shows it, saying—“This is how I take the balls out of the cups. Since I no longer need this ball, I’ll return it to the wand.” He does this as described on page 277, and afterwards, if desired, hands the wand to the audience for inspection. “In the same way, I draw out the second ball” (he repeats the same process with the middle cup), “and transfer that into my wand as well. I don’t even need to touch the cups. Watch, I just tap this third cup with my wand, and the ball instantly appears on top.” The audience, of course, cannot see any ball on the end of the wand, but a ball is still taken from it by the method already shown, letting the hidden ball drop to the tips of his fingers as they come in contact with the wand. “I’ll also put this into my wand. Wait, on second thought, I’ll need a ball for my next experiment, so I’ll leave it here on the table.”

K The reader will understand that nobody has in fact made any such observation, but the overhearing of an imaginary objection is often of great use, as enabling the performer to do some necessary act, which he could not well have done without such pretext. Thus in this instance, the performer wants a plausible excuse—first, for altering his apparent intention of immediately producing a second ball from the wand; and, secondly, for lifting the middle cup, and so regaining possession of the ball. A conjuror thus addressing an imaginary objector is said in French “parler à la cantonade,” but the phrase has no precise equivalent among English performers.

K The reader will realize that no one has actually made that observation, but listening to an imagined objection is often very helpful, as it allows the performer to take necessary action that they couldn’t easily do without such a justification. In this case, the performer needs a reasonable excuse—first, for changing their apparent plan of immediately producing a second ball from the wand; and, second, for lifting the middle cup to regain possession of the ball. A magician speaking to an imagined critic is said in French “parler à la cantonade,” but there isn’t a precise equivalent phrase among English performers.

We have given a somewhat elaborate description of this first Pass, in order to give the reader some idea of the various feints and artifices employed in relation to the cups and balls. It would be impossible, from considerations of space, to do this as to each of the Passes, and the reader must therefore remember that the descriptions following give merely the essential outlines, which must be worked up to dramatic effectiveness by the ingenuity of the individual performer. Where practicable, we shall allow the few words put into the mouth of the performer to indicate the actions accompanying them, only giving special “stage directions” in cases where the performer does not suit the action to the words. For the sake of distinctness, we shall indicate the goblets (reckoning from the left hand of the performer) as A, B, and C. (See Fig. 118.)

We’ve provided a detailed description of this first Pass to give the reader an idea of the different tricks and techniques used with the cups and balls. Due to space limitations, it’s impossible to do the same for each Pass, so the reader should remember that the following descriptions only provide the essential outlines, which must be enhanced for dramatic effect by the creativity of each individual performer. When possible, we will let the few words spoken by the performer suggest the accompanying actions, only providing specific “stage directions” when the performer does not match the action to the words. To clarify, we will label the goblets (starting from the performer’s left hand) as A, B, and C. (See Fig. 118.)

Pass II. To make a Ball Travel invisibly from Cup to Cup.—“Now, ladies and gentlemen, if you watch very closely, you will be able to see the ball travel from one cup to another. I take the ball” (transfers it apparently to left hand) “and place it under this cup (C). You all see that there is nothing under this one” (B). In raising B with the right hand he introduces under it the palmed ball. “I shall now command the ball which I have just placed under the first cup (C) to travel under this one (B). Attention!282 and you will see it pass.” He makes a motion of the wand from the one cup to the other. “There it goes! This cup (C), as you see, is empty, and under this one (B) is the ball. I will replace it under this same cup” (B). He in reality palms it. “There is nothing under this cup” (A). He secretly introduces the ball under A. “Now observe again. Pass! Did you see it? No? well, I don’t much wonder at it, for I can’t always see it myself. Here it is, however” (lifts A), “and this cup (B) is empty.” He replaces the cups on the table, and lays the ball beside them.

Pass II: To make a ball move invisibly from one cup to another.—“Now, ladies and gentlemen, if you watch closely, you'll see the ball travel from one cup to another. I take the ball” (pretends to transfer it to his left hand) “and place it under this cup (C). You can all see that there’s nothing under this one” (B). As he raises B with his right hand, he secretly hides the ball underneath. “I will now make the ball that I just placed under the first cup (C) travel under this one (B). Pay attention!282 and you’ll see it move.” He gestures with the wand from one cup to the other. “There it goes! This cup (C), as you can see, is empty, and the ball is under this one (B). I will put it back under this same cup” (B). He actually hides it again. “There’s nothing under this cup” (A). He secretly places the ball under A. “Now watch again. Pass! Did you see it? No? Well, I’m not surprised, because I can’t always see it myself. Here it is, though” (lifts A), “and this cup (B) is empty.” He sets the cups back on the table and puts the ball next to them.

Pass III. Having placed a Ball under each of the end Cups, to make them pass successively under the Middle Cup.—Before commencing this Pass, the performer, while placing the goblets in line, or otherwise engaging the attention of the audience with his left hand, takes from the servante with his right, and palms, a second ball. He continues, “For my next experiment, ladies and gentlemen, I shall require two balls. I need hardly remark that I could instantly supply myself from the wand; but there is a curious faculty about the balls themselves; they have a constant tendency to increase and multiply. For instance, without having recourse to the wand, I can instantly make this one ball into two” (he takes up the ball on the table in his left hand, taking care so to hold it that all may see that there is nothing else in his hand), “and the most curious part of the matter is, that though mathematicians insist that the whole is always greater than its part, in this case each of the parts will be found precisely equal to the whole.” As he speaks, he takes the ball from the left hand with the fingers of the right, at the same time dropping the palmed ball into the left hand, and now taking care to so hold his right hand as to show that it contains the one ball only. He then again replaces this ball in the palm of the left hand, where it lies side by side with the second ball. Rubbing the left palm with the second and third fingers of the right, with a circular motion, he gradually lifts the fingers, and shows the single ball apparently transformed into two, both of which he places on the table.

Pass III. After putting a ball under each end cup, they should pass one after the other under the middle cup.—Before starting this trick, the performer, while lining up the goblets or distracting the audience with his left hand, takes a second ball from the servante with his right hand and hides it. He continues, “For my next trick, ladies and gentlemen, I will need two balls. I should point out that I could easily get one from the wand; however, there's a fascinating thing about these balls—they seem to multiply on their own. For example, without using the wand, I can instantly turn this one ball into two” (he picks up the ball on the table with his left hand, ensuring everyone sees there's nothing else in his hand), “and the most interesting part is that even though mathematicians claim the whole is always greater than its parts, in this case, each of the parts is exactly equal to the whole.” As he speaks, he takes the ball from his left hand with his right fingers, simultaneously dropping the hidden ball into his left hand, now holding his right hand in a way that shows it only has one ball. He then places this ball back in his left palm, where it sits next to the second ball. Rubbing the left palm with the second and third fingers of his right hand in a circular motion, he gradually lifts his fingers and reveals that the single ball has seemingly turned into two, both of which he places on the table.

“You will observe that there is nothing under this cup (C). I will place under it this ball” (he really palms it); “neither is there283 anything under either of these two cups” (B and A). He lifts the cups one with each hand, and secretly introduces the palmed ball under B. “I take this second ball, and place it under this cup” (A). He really palms it. “We now have a ball under each of these two cups” (A and C). “I draw the ball out of this one” (C). He touches the top of the cup, and produces the ball last palmed at his finger-tips. “I order it to pass under this middle cup” (B). He apparently transfers it to the left hand, really palming it, and then makes a motion with the left hand, as if passing it into B. “It has passed, you see!” He raises B with his right hand, showing the ball under it, and in replacing it secretly introduces the second palmed ball. “Now I order the ball in this cup (A) to pass in like manner.” He waves his wand from A to B, and then lifts B. “Here it is, and these two outer cups” (turning them over with the wand) “are perfectly empty.”

“You’ll see that there’s nothing under this cup (C). I’ll put this ball under it” (he really palms it); “and there’s also nothing under these two cups” (B and A). He lifts the cups, one in each hand, and secretly places the palmed ball under B. “I take this second ball and put it under this cup” (A). He really palms it. “Now we have a ball under each of these two cups” (A and C). “I’ll draw the ball out from this one” (C). He touches the top of the cup and produces the ball he last palmed at his fingertips. “I’ll make it go under this middle cup” (B). He pretends to transfer it to his left hand while actually palming it, then gestures with his left hand as if passing it into B. “It has passed, you see!” He lifts B with his right hand, showing the ball under it, and while replacing it, secretly introduces the second palmed ball. “Now I’ll make the ball in this cup (A) pass in the same way.” He waves his wand from A to B and then lifts B. “Here it is, and these two outer cups” (turning them over with the wand) “are completely empty.”

Pass IV. Having placed two Balls under the Middle Cup, to make them pass under the two Outer ones.—“You have just seen these two balls pass under the middle cup; now, by way of variety, we will make them pass out of it. I will take the two balls, and place them under the middle cup.” He really so places one only, palming the other. “You observe that there is nothing either under this (A), nor under this (C).” Here he secretly introduces the palmed ball beneath C. “Now I order one of the balls under the middle cup to pass under one of the outer cups. Let us see if it has done so” (lifts middle cup with left hand). “Yes, here is only one left.” He takes it up and shows it with right hand, then makes the gesture of replacing, but really palms it. “Let us see where it has gone to” (lifts A with right hand, and in replacing it secretly introduces the palmed ball under it). “It is not under this one. Then it must be under this.” He lifts C. “Yes, here it is. Now I command the other ball in like manner to leave the middle cup, and pass under the other (A). Pass! Here it is, you see, and this one (B) is entirely empty.”

Pass IV. After putting two balls under the middle cup, they will go under the two outer cups.—“You just saw these two balls go under the middle cup; now, for a change, we're going to make them come out of it. I’ll take the two balls and place them under the middle cup.” He actually only places one there, hiding the other in his hand. “You can see there’s nothing under this (A) or this (C).” Here he secretly puts the hidden ball under C. “Now I’ll make one of the balls under the middle cup go under one of the outer cups. Let’s see if it worked” (lifts middle cup with left hand). “Yes, there’s only one left.” He picks it up and shows it with his right hand, then makes a gesture to put it back, but actually hides it. “Let’s see where it went” (lifts A with right hand, and while putting it back, secretly places the hidden ball under it). “It’s not under this one. Then it must be under this.” He lifts C. “Yes, here it is. Now I’m going to command the other ball to leave the middle cup and go under the other one (A). Go! Here it is, you see, and this one (B) is completely empty.”

Pass V. To pass three Balls in succession under one Cup.—“So far, ladies and gentlemen, what I have shown you has284 been mere child’s play.” He drops the right hand carelessly to the servante, and picks up two more balls, one of which he holds between the fingers, and the other in the palm. “The real difficulty only begins when we begin to work with three balls. Now which of these two balls” (taking up the two balls from the table) “is the largest? This one, I fancy, has the advantage, so I will pinch a little piece off to make a third ball.” He goes through the motion of pinching the ball with the fingers of both hands, at the same moment letting fall the ball in the palm to the tips of the fingers of the right hand. “Yes, this will do. It isn’t quite round, but that is easily rectified.” He rolls it between the fingers. “That is better. Now watch me closely, ladies and gentlemen.” He places the balls upon the table, with the exception of the fourth, which remains concealed between the fingers. “You see that there is nothing under either of the cups.” He raises all three, and introduces the fourth ball under the middle one (B). He then picks up one of the balls on the table, and apparently transfers it to his left hand, really palming it. “I command this ball to pass into the middle cup. It has passed, you see” (raising the cup with the right hand, and in replacing it, introducing the ball now palmed). The operation is repeated in like manner, until three balls have been shown under the cup, the fourth finally remaining palmed in the right hand.

Pass V. To successfully pass three balls in a row under one cup.—“So far, ladies and gentlemen, what I’ve shown you has been just a warm-up.” He casually drops his right hand down to the servante, picking up two more balls, one held between his fingers and the other in his palm. “The real challenge begins when we start working with three balls. Now, which of these two balls” (lifting the two balls from the table) “is the biggest? I think this one has the edge, so I will pinch a little piece off to make a third ball.” He pretends to pinch the ball with both hands, simultaneously letting the ball in his palm drop to the tips of his right hand's fingers. “Yes, this will do. It’s not perfectly round, but that can be easily fixed.” He rolls it between his fingers. “That’s better. Now, watch closely, ladies and gentlemen.” He places the balls on the table, except for the fourth, which stays hidden between his fingers. “You can see there’s nothing under either of the cups.” He lifts all three cups and places the fourth ball under the middle one (B). He then picks up one of the balls on the table and appears to transfer it to his left hand, but in reality, he’s palming it. “I command this ball to move into the middle cup. It’s passed, as you can see” (lifting the cup with his right hand and, while putting it back, introducing the now-palmed ball). This process is repeated until three balls are shown under the cup, with the fourth finally remaining palmed in his right hand.

Pass VI. To Place three Balls one after the other upon the top of one of the Cups, and to make them fall through the Cup on to the Table.—At the conclusion of the last Pass the performer had brought three balls under the centre cup B, a fourth remaining concealed in his hand. In lifting B to exhibit the three balls, and in replacing it beside them, he takes the opportunity of introducing beneath it this fourth ball. He next takes one of the three balls thus exposed, and placing it on the top of this same goblet (B), covering it with a second goblet (A). Making any appropriate gesture he pleases, he commands the ball to fall through the lower goblet on to the table. He then overturns (without separating) the two goblets, their mouths being towards the spectators, when the ball which he had secretly introduced will be discovered, and will appear to be that which the spectators have just seen placed on the top285 of the goblet (and which really still remains between the two goblets), and picks up the two goblets together, mouth upwards, with the left hand, and with the right hand takes out that which is now uppermost (B). He turns both the goblets down upon the table, placing A over the ball which he has just shown. If this is neatly done, the other ball, which has remained in A, will not be discovered, but will as it falls be covered by A, which will now have beneath it two balls. The performer now places one of the remaining balls on the top of A, covering it with either of the other goblets, and again goes through the same process till he has shown first two, and then three balls under the cup, the fourth remaining, at the close of the Pass, between the two cups last used.

Pass VI. Stack three balls on top of one of the cups and let them drop through the cup onto the table.—At the end of the last pass, the performer had three balls under the center cup B, with a fourth hidden in his hand. As he lifts cup B to show the three balls and then puts it back beside them, he takes the chance to introduce the fourth ball underneath it. He then picks one of the three exposed balls and places it on top of this same goblet (B), covering it with a second goblet (A). With any suitable gesture he likes, he commands the ball to fall through the lower goblet onto the table. He then flips over (without separating) the two goblets, their mouths facing the audience, revealing the ball he secretly placed, which will appear to be the one the spectators just saw placed on top285 of the goblet (and which is actually still between the two goblets). He picks up both goblets together, mouth upwards, with his left hand, while with his right hand he removes the one that is now on top (B). He turns both goblets down onto the table, placing A over the ball he has just revealed. If done neatly, the other ball, which remained in A, will not be discovered but will be covered by A as it falls, which will now have two balls beneath it. The performer now places one of the remaining balls on top of A, covering it with one of the other goblets, and repeats the process until he has shown first two, and then three balls under the cup, with the fourth remaining at the end of the pass between the last two cups used.

Pass VII. To pass three Balls in succession upwards through the Table into one of the Cups.—You concluded the last Pass (we will suppose the reader to represent for the time being the performer) by lifting two cups together to show three balls beneath the undermost. Holding two cups in the left hand, you turn them over, mouth upwards. Taking with the right hand that which is now uppermost, you place it on the table in the ordinary position, still retaining the other, in which, unknown to the spectators, a fourth ball still remains. You continue, “Ladies and gentlemen, you may possibly imagine that there is some trick or sleight-of-hand in what I have shown you, but I am now about to perform an experiment in which that solution is clearly inadmissible. I propose to pass these three balls, one after the other, through the solid table into this empty goblet. Pray watch me carefully. I take away one of the balls” (you take in the right hand one of the three on the table), “and hold it beneath the table, thus. My left hand, as you will observe, is perfectly empty. I have only to say, ‘Pass!’” (You palm the ball in the right hand, at the same time giving a gentle tap with one finger against the under surface of the table, and immediately bring up the hand, taking care, of course, to keep its outer side towards the spectators; then gently shake the cup which you hold in the left hand, and turn the ball out upon the table.) “Here it is, you see. Now I will put it back in the cup” (you pick up the ball with the right hand, and drop it into the cup, secretly letting fall with it the palmed ball),286 “and take another ball.” You repeat the process, and show two balls in the cup; then again (each time dropping in the palmed ball), and show three, retaining the fourth ball, still palmed, in your right hand.

Pass VII. To successfully pass three balls in a row upward through the table into one of the cups.—You finished the last pass (let's imagine the reader is the performer for now) by lifting two cups together to reveal three balls underneath the bottom cup. Holding two cups in your left hand, you flip them over, cup side up. With your right hand, you take the cup that's now on top and place it on the table in the usual position, while still holding the other cup, which, unbeknownst to the audience, still has a fourth ball inside. You continue, “Ladies and gentlemen, you might think there's some trick or sleight of hand in what I've shown you, but now I'm going to perform an experiment where that explanation clearly doesn't apply. I propose to pass these three balls, one after another, through the solid table into this empty goblet. Please watch me closely. I’ll take away one of the balls” (you pick one of the three on the table with your right hand), “and hold it under the table like this. As you can see, my left hand is completely empty. All I have to say is, ‘Pass!’” (You conceal the ball in your right hand while gently tapping the underside of the table with one finger, then bring your hand up, making sure to keep the outside facing the audience; then you gently shake the cup you're holding in your left hand and turn the ball out onto the table.) “Here it is, see? Now I'll put it back in the cup” (you pick up the ball with your right hand and drop it into the cup, secretly allowing the palmed ball to fall in with it),286 “and take another ball.” You repeat the process, showing two balls in the cup; then again (each time dropping in the palmed ball), and show three, still keeping the fourth ball concealed in your right hand.

Pass VIII. To Pass two Balls in succession from one Cup to another without touching them.—You again place the three cups in a row on the table, secretly introducing under the right hand cup (C) the ball which remained in your right hand at the close of the last Pass, and then openly place the three other balls on the tops of the three cups. You then proceed, “I will take this ball” (that which is on B), “and place it under this same cup” (B). You really palm it. “I take this other ball” (that which is upon A), “and place it under this cup” (A). You secretly introduce with it the ball which you have just palmed. “I take this last” (that upon C), “and place it under this goblet (A); or, stay, I will pass it invisibly to this one” (C)—really palming it. “It has passed, you see.” You lift C, and show the ball which is already there; and in again covering the ball with the cup, you secretly introduce that which you last palmed. You now have in reality two balls under each of the end cups, and none under the centre one; but the spectators are persuaded that there is one ball under each cup. “We now have one ball under each cup. Now I shall command the ball that is under the centre cup to pass into either of the end ones at your pleasure. Which shall it be?” Whichever is chosen, suppose C, you raise and show the two balls under it. You then ostensibly replace the two balls under C, but really replace the one only, palming the other. You then raise the middle cup (B), to show that it is empty, and, in replacing it, introduce the ball you have just palmed under it. “Now I shall next order one of the two balls you have just seen under this cup (C) to go and join the one which is already under this other (A). Pass! Here it is, you observe.” You raise A to show that there are two balls under it. You also raise C to show that it now only contains one ball, and leave all three balls exposed on the table.

Pass VIII. To pass two balls in a row from one cup to another without touching them.—You again place the three cups in a row on the table, secretly putting the ball that you held in your right hand at the end of the last Pass under the right-hand cup (C), and then openly place the three other balls on top of the three cups. You then continue, “I will take this ball” (the one on B), “and place it under this same cup” (B). You actually palm it. “I take this other ball” (the one on A), “and place it under this cup” (A). You secretly introduce the ball you just palmed along with it. “I take this last one” (the one on C), “and place it under this cup (A); or, wait, I will pass it invisibly to this one” (C)—and you really palm it. “It has passed, you see.” You lift C and show the ball that is already there; and as you cover the ball with the cup again, you secretly introduce the one you just palmed. You now have two balls under each of the end cups and none under the middle one; but the spectators believe there is one ball under each cup. “We now have one ball under each cup. Now I will command the ball under the middle cup to pass into either of the end ones at your choice. Which one shall it be?” Whichever one is chosen, say C, you raise it to show the two balls underneath. You then seem to replace the two balls under C, but you actually only replace one, palming the other. You then lift the middle cup (B) to show that it is empty, and as you put it back down, you introduce the ball you just palmed under it. “Now I will next order one of the two balls you just saw under this cup (C) to go and join the one that’s already under this other cup (A). Pass! Here it is, you see.” You raise A to show that there are two balls under it. You also lift C to show that it now only has one ball and leave all three balls exposed on the table.

Pass IX. To make three Balls in Succession pass under the Middle Cup.—At the conclusion of the last Pass, three balls287 were left in view, while a fourth, unknown to the audience, was hidden under the middle cup. You proceed, picking up a ball with the right hand, “I take this ball, and place it under this cup” (C); (in reality palming it). “I now order it to pass under the middle cup. Presto! Here it is, you see.” You raise the middle cup to show that the ball has obeyed your command, and, in again covering the ball, secretly introduce with it that which you have just palmed. “I take this one” (you pick up another), “and place it under this cup” (A)—here you palm it as before—“and order it also to pass under the middle cup.” You raise the middle cup, and show that there are now two balls under it, and, in again covering them, introduce the ball which you last palmed. “I take this last ball, and place it under this cup” (C)—palming it—“whence I shall command it to again depart, and join its companions under the middle cup. This time it shall make the journey visibly.” You take your wand in the left hand, and with it touch the cup C. “Here it is, you see, on the end of my wand. You don’t see it? Why, surely it is visible enough. Look.” You pretend to produce the palmed ball from the wand, and exhibit it to the company. “You can all see it now.” You lay down the wand, and go through the motion of transferring the ball to the left hand, really palming it in its passage. “Now, then, pray watch me closely, and you will see it pass under the cup. One, two, three!” You make the gesture of throwing it through the middle cup, and open the hand to show it empty, immediately turning over the goblets to show that there are three balls under the middle and none under the outer ones.

Pass IX. Making three balls pass under the middle cup one after the other.—At the end of the last pass, three balls287 were visible, while a fourth, hidden from the audience, was concealed under the middle cup. You begin by picking up a ball with your right hand, saying, “I’m taking this ball and placing it under this cup” (C); (actually palming it). “Now, I command it to pass under the middle cup. Presto! Here it is, see?” You lift the middle cup to show that the ball has followed your command, and as you cover the ball again, you secretly introduce the one you just palmed. “I take this one” (you grab another), “and place it under this cup” (A)—palming it as before—“and I also order it to pass under the middle cup.” You lift the middle cup to reveal that there are now two balls under it, and while covering them, you conceal the last palmed ball. “I take this final ball, and place it under this cup” (C)—palming it—“and I will command it to leave and join its friends under the middle cup. This time it will travel visibly.” You take your wand in your left hand and touch cup C with it. “Here it is, you see, at the end of my wand. Can’t see it? Surely it’s clear enough. Look.” You pretend to pull the palmed ball from the wand and show it to everyone. “You can all see it now.” You set down the wand and mimic transferring the ball to your left hand, actually palming it as you do so. “Now, please watch closely, and you’ll see it pass under the cup. One, two, three!” You make the motion of throwing it through the middle cup and open your hand to show it’s empty, immediately flipping over the cups to reveal that there are three balls under the middle one and none under the outer cups.

Pass X. The “Multiplication” Pass.—For the purpose of this Pass it is necessary to borrow a hat, which you hold in the left hand. You then place the three balls in a row upon the table, and cover each with one of the cups. It will be remembered that a fourth ball remains palmed in your right hand. You now lift up the right hand goblet (C), and place it on the table close beside the ball which it lately covered, and as you do so, secretly introduce beneath it the palmed ball. You pick up with the right hand the ball which you have thus uncovered, and go through the motion of dropping it into the hat, really palming it in the moment during which the hand is288 concealed inside the hat, and at the same moment simulating, by gentle tap against the inside, the sound which the ball would make if actually dropped into the hat. You next lift B in like manner, introducing the ball just palmed beneath it, and go through the motion of placing the second ball, which is thereby left exposed, in the hat. You do the same with the third cup, then return to the first (which the spectators believe to be now empty, and from which they are astonished to see you produce another ball), continuing till you have raised each cup in succession eight or ten times, and, on each occasion of lifting a cup to uncover a ball, introducing beneath it the ball which you had just previously palmed. To the eyes of the spectators, who believe that the balls are really dropped into the hat, the effect will be exactly as if new balls, by some mysterious process of reproduction, came under the cups at each time of raising them. When you think your audience are sufficiently astonished, you remark, “I think we have about enough now; the hat is getting rather heavy. Will some one hold a handkerchief to receive the balls?” When the handkerchief is spread out, you carefully turn over the hat, and the general astonishment will be intensified at discovering that it contains nothing.

Pass X. The "Multiplication" Pass.—For this pass, you need to borrow a hat, which you hold in your left hand. Place three balls in a row on the table, covering each with one of the cups. Remember, a fourth ball is hidden in your right hand. Lift the right-hand cup (C) and set it down next to the ball it just covered, secretly placing the hidden ball beneath it. Pick up the ball you've revealed with your right hand and pretend to drop it into the hat, actually palming it while your hand is inside the hat, and lightly tapping the inside to mimic the sound of a ball dropping. Do the same with cup B, hiding the recently palmed ball beneath it, and simulate placing the second exposed ball into the hat. Repeat this with the third cup, then go back to the first cup (which the audience thinks is now empty, only to be surprised when you pull out another ball), continuing until you've lifted each cup eight to ten times, always placing the palmed ball underneath each time. To the spectators, who believe the balls are really going into the hat, it will seem like new balls magically appear under the cups each time you lift them. When you feel your audience is sufficiently amazed, you say, “I think we have enough now; the hat is getting a bit heavy. Would someone hold a handkerchief to catch the balls?” Once the handkerchief is spread out, you carefully flip the hat over, and their astonishment will grow when they find it empty.

There is, of course, a ball left under each of the cups, and a fourth palmed in your right hand. This latter will not again be wanted, and you should therefore, while attention is drawn to the hat, drop it upon the servante, or into one of your pochettes.

There is, of course, a ball under each cup, and a fourth one hidden in your right hand. You won’t need this one again, so while everyone's focused on the hat, you should drop it onto the servante or into one of your pochettes.

Pass XI. To Transform the Small Balls to Larger Ones.—While the attention of the spectators is still occupied by the unexpected dénouement of the last Pass, you should prepare for this one by secretly taking with your right hand from the servante, and palming (by either the second or third method, the first being only available for the small balls) one of the larger balls. You then address the spectators to the following effect:—“Ladies and gentlemen, you see that I have little difficulty in increasing the number of the balls to an unlimited extent. I will now repeat the experiment in another form, and show you that it is equally easy to make them increase in size. You will observe that, notwithstanding the number of balls which I have just produced from the cups, there are still289 plenty more to come.” Here you raise C, and show that there is a ball still under it. You replace it on the table at a few inches’ distance, and as you do so, secretly introduce under it the larger ball which you have just palmed. Taking up the small ball in your right hand, you say, “To make the experiment still more surprising, I will pass the ball upwards through the table into the cup.” So saying, you place the right hand under the table, dropping as you do so the little ball which you hold on the servante, and taking in its place another of the larger balls. “Pass!” you exclaim, at the same time giving a gentle rap on the under surface of the table. You bring the hand up again as if empty. You do not touch the first cup, but repeat the operation with the second, B, and again with A; on each occasion of passing the hand under the table exchanging a small ball for a larger one, and immediately afterwards introducing the latter under the cup next in order. The last time, however, you merely drop the small ball on the servante, without bringing up any other in exchange. You now have, unknown to the audience, one of the larger, or medium-sized balls under each of the cups; and if you were about to end with this Pass, you would merely lift the cups and show the balls, thus apparently increased in size, underneath. We will assume, however, that you propose to exhibit the Pass next following (one of the most effective), in which case the necessary preparation must be made in the act of raising the cups; and we shall therefore proceed at once, while the balls still remain covered, to describe

Pass XI. To Change the Small Balls into Larger Ones.—While the audience is still captivated by the unexpected dénouement of the last Pass, you should prepare for this one by discreetly taking a larger ball from the servante with your right hand and palming it (using either the second or third method, since the first is only suitable for the small balls). You then address the audience, saying: “Ladies and gentlemen, you can see that I have little trouble in increasing the number of balls to an unlimited extent. I will now repeat the experiment in another way and show you that it's just as easy to make them increase in size. You will notice that, despite the number of balls I’ve just produced from the cups, there are still289 plenty more to come.” Here you lift cup C and show that there’s still a ball underneath it. You place it back on the table a few inches away, and as you do this, secretly introduce the larger ball you've just palmed underneath it. Picking up the small ball in your right hand, you say, “To make this experiment even more surprising, I will pass the ball upwards through the table into the cup.” Saying this, you place your right hand under the table, dropping the small ball you’re holding onto the servante and taking in its place another larger ball. “Pass!” you exclaim, while gently tapping the underside of the table. You bring your hand back up as if it's empty. You don’t touch the first cup, but repeat the process with the second cup, B, and then with A; each time, you pass your hand under the table, swapping a small ball for a larger one and immediately placing the larger ball under the next cup. However, the last time, you just drop the small ball on the servante, without bringing up any other in exchange. You now have one of the larger or medium-sized balls hidden under each of the cups, and if you were about to finish with this Pass, you would simply lift the cups to reveal the balls, seemingly increased in size, underneath. We will assume, however, that you plan to demonstrate the next Pass (one of the most effective), in which case you'll need to make the necessary preparation while raising the cups; therefore, we'll proceed right away while the balls are still covered.

Pass XII. To again Transform the Balls to still Larger Ones.—The last Pass having reached the stage we have just described, i.e., a large ball being under each cup, but not yet exhibited to the audience, you secretly take in your left hand from the servante one of the still larger balls. These balls should be soft and elastic, and of such a size that, if pressed lightly into the cup, they shall require a slight tap of the cup on the table to dislodge them.

Pass XII. To Change the Balls into Even Bigger Ones.—Now that the last pass has reached the point we just described, meaning there’s a large ball under each cup but they haven’t been shown to the audience yet, you discreetly take one of the even larger balls in your left hand from the servante. These balls should be soft and bouncy, and they should be sized so that if you press them lightly into the cup, you’ll need to give the cup a gentle tap on the table to get them out.

Having taken the ball in the left hand, you hold it at the ends of the fingers behind the table, as near the top as possible consistently with its being out of sight of the spectators. Then saying, “Now, ladies and gentlemen, I must ask for your very closest attention,”290 you raise C with the right hand, and with the same movement lower it for a moment behind the table, and over the ball in the left hand, which remains in the cup of its own accord. All eyes go instinctively to the ball on the table, whose increased size is a new phenomenon, and not one in a hundred will, in this first moment of surprise, think of watching the cup, which is naturally supposed to have, for the moment, concluded its share of the trick. You replace the cup on the table lightly, so as not to loosen the ball, meanwhile getting ready another ball in the left hand, and repeat the operation with B. With A you make a slight variation in your mode of procedure. Taking a third ball in your left hand, you hold it as before, but, as if through carelessness or clumsiness, allow it to be seen for a moment above the edge of the table. When you raise the third cup, you move it behind the table as before, and make a feint of introducing the ball which the spectators have just seen, but really let it drop on the servante, and replace the cup empty. A murmur from the audience will quickly apprise you that they have, as they imagine, found you out. Looking as innocent as you can, you inquire what is the matter, and are informed that you were seen to introduce a ball into the cup. “I beg your pardon,” you reply, lifting up, however, not A, which you have just replaced, but C, which is the farthest remote from it. There is really a ball in this cup, but having been pressed in, and fitting tightly, it does not fall. The audience, seeing you raise the wrong cup, are more and more confirmed in their suspicion. “Not that one, the other,” they exclaim. You next raise B, the ball in which also does not fall, for the reason already stated. “No, no,” the audience shout, “the other cup, the end one.” “You are really very obstinate, gentlemen,” you reply, “but pray satisfy yourselves,” turning over A as you speak, and showing the inside, which is manifestly empty, and your critics rapidly subside. Meanwhile, you drop your left hand to the servante, and secretly take from it two similar balls. Then, addressing the audience, you say, “Surely, gentlemen, you don’t imagine that, if I wanted to place a ball under a cup, I should set about it after such a clumsy fashion as this!” As you say this, you place your left hand in your left pocket, as if taking a ball from thence (as it obviously would not do to give the audience cause to suspect the existence of a291 secret receptacle behind the table), and bring out again the two balls, but allow one only to be seen, keeping the other concealed in the palm. Bringing the cup over the hand, you squeeze in both balls as far as you can, when the innermost will remain, but the outermost, not having sufficient space, will drop out again on the table. The audience, not knowing that there are two balls, believe the cup, which you now replace on the table, to be empty. You continue, “No, gentlemen; when I pass a ball under a cup, you may be sure that I don’t let anybody see me do so.” As you speak, you take the ball on the table in your right hand, and make the movement of transferring it to your left, really palming it by the second method, and holding the left hand closed and high, as if containing it, and keeping your eyes fixed thereon, you carelessly drop your right hand till the finger-tips rest on the table, when you are able to let fall the ball upon the servante. You continue, “I will now pass this ball under either of the cups which you like to name. Indeed, I will do more; I will cause this ball invisibly to multiply itself into three, one of which shall pass under each of the cups. First, however, let me show you that there is nothing under the cups at present.” You raise each in turn—“Nothing here, nothing here, and nothing here!” The balls still adhere to the sides of the cups, which, therefore, appear to be empty, but you replace each with a slight rap on the table, and thereby loosen the ball within it. “Now, then!” You bring the two hands together, and gently rub them over each cup in turn; finally parting them and showing that both are empty, and then lifting the cups, show the three large balls underneath.

Holding the ball in your left hand, keep it at the tips of your fingers behind the table, as close to the top as you can while making sure it stays out of sight of the audience. Then, saying, “Now, ladies and gentlemen, I must ask for your very closest attention,”290 raise cup C with your right hand, lowering it momentarily behind the table over the ball in your left hand, which stays in place by itself. Everyone’s attention instinctively goes to the ball on the table, which appears larger, creating a moment of surprise, and in this instant, not many will think to watch the cup, which seems to have finished its part of the trick. You lightly place the cup back on the table without loosening the ball, while preparing another ball in your left hand and repeating the action with cup B. With cup A, you mix things up a bit. Taking a third ball in your left hand, hold it as before, but let it briefly show above the edge of the table, as if by mistake. When you lift the third cup, move it behind the table like before, pretending to place the ball that everyone just saw in it, but actually let it drop on the servante and put the cup back down empty. A murmur from the audience will quickly let you know they think they’ve figured it out. Looking as innocent as possible, you ask what the problem is and are told that they saw you drop a ball into the cup. “I beg your pardon,” you reply, but instead of lifting A, which you just put back down, you lift C, which is the farthest from it. There is a ball in this cup, but it’s pressed in tightly, so it doesn’t fall out. The audience, seeing you lift the wrong cup, their suspicion grows. “Not that one, the other,” they shout. You then raise B, where the ball also doesn’t fall for the same reason. “No, no,” they yell, “the other cup, the end one.” “You are really very persistent, gentlemen,” you respond, “but please satisfy yourselves.” As you say this, you turn over A, revealing the inside, which is clearly empty, and the critics quickly quiet down. In the meantime, you drop your left hand to the servante and secretly take out two similar balls. Addressing the audience, you say, “Surely, gentlemen, you don’t think that if I wanted to place a ball under a cup, I would do it in such a clumsy way!” As you say this, you put your left hand in your left pocket as if taking a ball from there (as it would obviously not do to give the audience any reason to suspect a291 secret compartment behind the table), and bring out the two balls, displaying only one while keeping the other hidden in your palm. Bringing the cup over your hand, you squeeze in both balls as much as you can, causing the inner ball to stay put while the outer one doesn’t have enough space and drops back onto the table. The audience, unaware there are two balls, assumes the cup you now set back on the table is empty. You continue, “No, gentlemen; when I pass a ball under a cup, you can be sure that I don’t let anyone see me do it.” As you speak, you pick up the ball on the table with your right hand and act as if you’re transferring it to your left, while actually palming it using the second method. Keeping your left hand closed and high as if it contains the ball, and focusing on it, you let your right hand drop so that your fingertips rest on the table, allowing the ball to fall onto the servante. You add, “I will now pass this ball under whichever cup you choose. In fact, I’ll do even more; I’ll make this ball magically multiply into three, with one under each cup. But first, let me show you that there’s nothing under the cups right now.” You lift each cup in turn—“Nothing here, nothing here, and nothing here!” The balls still cling to the sides of the cups, making them look empty, but you put each back down with a light tap on the table, loosening the ball inside. “Now, then!” You bring your hands together and rub them over each cup in turn; finally, you separate them to show that both are empty, and then you lift the cups to reveal three large balls underneath.

Some performers, in lifting each cup with the right hand, introduce a fresh ball, held in the left hand, as already explained. The effect is the same as in the “Multiplication” Pass, already described, with this difference, that on each occasion of uncovering a ball, the ball remains on the table, which thus becomes gradually covered with an ever-increasing number of balls. Some, again, conclude by apparently producing from the cups objects much larger than they could naturally contain, e.g., large apples, Spanish onions, etc. This is effected in the same manner as the introduction of the large balls just described, save that in this case the object, which cannot really go into the cup, is merely held against its mouth with the third finger292 of the right hand, and dropped with a slight shake, as if there was a difficulty in getting it out.

Some performers, when they lift each cup with their right hand, bring in a new ball held in their left hand, as mentioned earlier. The result is similar to the “Multiplication” Pass described before, with the difference that every time a ball is revealed, it stays on the table, which gradually gets covered with more and more balls. Some performers, additionally, end the act by seemingly producing objects much larger than what the cups could actually hold, like large apples, Spanish onions, etc. This is done in the same way as introducing the large balls mentioned earlier, except in this case, the item that can’t really fit into the cup is just held against the rim with the third finger of the right hand and dropped with a slight shake, as if there were trouble getting it out.292

There are many other cup-and-ball Passes, but the series above given will be found as effective as any. If any reader desires to follow the subject further, we would refer him to the Récréations Mathématiques et Physiques of Guyot, already quoted, or another old work, under the same title, by Ozanam, in which this branch of prestidigitation is treated at considerable length.

There are many other cup-and-ball passes, but the series mentioned above is just as effective as any. If any reader wants to explore the topic further, we recommend checking out the Récréations Mathématiques et Physiques by Guyot, which we've already mentioned, or another classic work with the same title by Ozanam, where this area of sleight of hand is covered in detail.


293

293

CHAPTER XIV.
Ball Tricks That Need Gear.

Before proceeding to the description of the tricks which form the subject of this Chapter, it may be well to mention one or two principles of sleight-of-hand, not yet noticed, which have a special application to ball tricks, and are also useful with regard to oranges, apples, eggs, etc. The Pass called the tourniquet, or “French drop,” described already in relation to coin, will be found equally applicable to balls up to a couple of inches in diameter, but is not available for objects of larger size. Balls of larger diameter are best palmed by one or other of the methods following.

Before moving on to the description of the tricks that make up this Chapter, it's good to mention a couple of principles of sleight-of-hand that haven't been discussed yet. These principles are especially relevant to ball tricks and can also be helpful for oranges, apples, eggs, and so on. The Pass known as the tourniquet, or “French drop,” which was already described in relation to coins, will work just as well with balls up to about two inches in diameter, but it doesn’t work for larger objects. For balls of larger sizes, the best techniques involve one or another of the following methods.

First Method.—Taking the ball in either hand, the performer tosses the ball from palm to palm (at a few inches’ distance) four or five times, finally making the motion of tossing it from the right hand to the left, but really retaining it in the right by a slight contraction of the palm, and at the same time closing and elevating the left hand, and following it with the eyes, as though it contained the ball. It is obvious that a ball of the size now under consideration (say of two to three inches in diameter) would not admit of the hand containing it being perfectly closed; and this must be borne in mind in the position of the left hand, the fingers of which must not be tightly closed, as they would if apparently containing a coin or other very small article, but merely curved inward, the palm, of course, being turned toward the performer’s own body, so as not to disclose the secret of its emptiness. Where the hand of the performer is small, or the ball is of such a size as not to be readily retained in the right hand by the contraction of the palm, the thumb may be used to assist in supporting it.

First Method.—The performer holds the ball in either hand and tosses it from one palm to the other (a few inches apart) four or five times. Finally, the performer mimics tossing it from the right hand to the left but actually keeps it in the right hand by slightly contracting the palm while simultaneously closing and raising the left hand, following it with their eyes, as if it contains the ball. It's clear that a ball of this size (about two to three inches in diameter) wouldn't allow the hand to be completely closed, so this should be taken into account with the left hand's position. The fingers shouldn't be tightly closed as they would be if holding a coin or another very small object, but should be gently curved inward, with the palm facing the performer’s body to keep the secret of its emptiness. If the performer has small hands, or if the ball is too large to be securely held in the right hand by just contracting the palm, the thumb can be used to help support it.

294 Second Method.—Taking the ball between his open hands, the performer rolls it round and round between his palms, as though it were a lump of clay which he was moulding into a spherical form; and in so doing gradually turns his hands till the back of his right hand is undermost, when, with an inward movement of that hand towards himself, he palms the ball therein, at the same time closing and elevating the left hand, as described for the last method.

294 Second Method.—The performer takes the ball between his open hands and rolls it back and forth between his palms, as if he were shaping a lump of clay into a round shape. While doing this, he gradually rotates his hands until the back of his right hand is facing down. Then, with an inward motion of that hand towards himself, he palms the ball in that hand while simultaneously closing and raising the left hand, just like explained in the previous method.

To Vanish a Large Ball with the aid of the Table.First Method. Standing behind his table, the ball being some six or eight inches from its hinder edge, the performer places both hands round it, apparently picking it up and bringing it forward between his two hands, from which, however, the ball is, on examination, found to have vanished. Its disappearance is effected as follows:—At the moment when the performer encircles the ball with his hands, he gives, with the little finger of the hand which is innermost—and therefore unseen by the audience—a quick jerk to the ball, which is thereby made to roll towards the hinder edge of the table, and drop upon the servante, on which there should be a padded box or basket to receive it. The action is wholly concealed from the spectators by the hands, which, with the exception of the finger which does the work, should remain motionless.

Making a Large Ball Disappear Using the Table.First Method. Standing behind the table, with the ball around six to eight inches from the back edge, the performer wraps both hands around it, seemingly picking it up and bringing it forward between his hands, but upon closer inspection, it’s found to have vanished. This disappearance happens as follows: At the moment when the performer encircles the ball with his hands, he quickly jerks the ball with the little finger of the hand that’s closest to the table—so it’s hidden from the audience—causing it to roll toward the back edge of the table and drop into a padded box or basket that's placed on the servante to catch it. The whole action is completely concealed from the spectators by his hands, which should remain still except for the finger that’s doing the work.

Second Method.—Standing behind his table, as in the last case, the performer tosses up the ball, and catches it again three or four times, keeping the hands low, so as to be near the edge of the table. The hands naturally sink in the act of catching the ball; and after having caught it once or twice, the performer, as he lowers them, drops it on the servante, immediately raising them again with the action of throwing up the ball, taking care to follow it with the eyes in its imaginary flight. If this is done neatly, the eyes of the spectators will instinctively travel in the same direction, and the effect to them will be as if the ball vanished at the highest point of its upward flight, instead of disappearing, as it really does, at the moment of reaching the hands in its fall. This method may also be employed for objects other than of spherical shape.

Second Method.—Standing behind his table, like in the previous example, the performer tosses the ball up and catches it a few times, keeping his hands low to stay close to the edge of the table. As he catches the ball, his hands naturally drop, and after catching it once or twice, he lowers them and lets the ball drop onto the servante, quickly raising his hands again as if throwing the ball up, making sure to follow its imaginary path with his eyes. If done smoothly, the spectators' eyes will instinctively follow in the same direction, creating the illusion that the ball disappears at the peak of its upward motion, rather than actually disappearing when it reaches his hands on the way down. This technique can also be used for items that aren’t spherical.

Third Method.—The performer, standing behind his table as before, and placing the ball thereon, covers it with the right hand,295 and rolls it round and round in circles, each time bringing it nearer and nearer to the hinder edge of the table, till it finally rolls over, and drops upon the servante. He continues the motion of the hand for two or three turns, as though the ball was still under it, gradually working back towards the centre of the table, the effect to the spectator being as if the ball melted away under the operator’s fingers.

Third Method.—The performer, standing behind the table like before, places the ball on it, covers it with his right hand, 295 and rolls it in circles, each time bringing it closer to the back edge of the table until it finally rolls off and lands on the servante. He continues the hand motion for two or three turns, as if the ball is still underneath, gradually moving back toward the center of the table, creating the illusion for the audience that the ball has disappeared under his fingers.

Fourth Method.—This is generally employed to apparently pass one object into another—say a small ball into a large one. The performer, standing a little behind his table, with his right side slightly turned to the spectators, takes in his right hand the small ball, and in his left the large one. The latter he holds about shoulder high, keeping his eyes fixed upon it, and remarking, “I shall now pass this small ball into this large one,” he draws back and lowers the right arm, as though to give it impetus, as one naturally does in the act of throwing. This brings the right hand just over the padded box or basket on the servante, and allows him to drop the small ball therein. Without any pause, he brings the right hand smartly up to the left, describing a tolerably wide arc in its transit, and then, separating his hands, shows that the smaller ball has vanished, having apparently passed into the large one. This sleight is not confined to objects of spherical form, but may be used with any article of convenient size.

Fourth Method.—This is often used to make it seem like one object goes into another—like a small ball into a large one. The performer stands slightly behind the table, angled a bit away from the audience. He holds the small ball in his right hand and the large one in his left hand, which he keeps at shoulder height, focusing on it. He says, “I’m now going to pass this small ball into this large one,” then he pulls his right arm back and lowers it, as if he’s getting ready to throw. This positions his right hand just above the padded box or basket on the servante, allowing him to drop the small ball inside. Without pausing, he quickly raises his right hand to join the left, drawing a wide arc as he moves it, and then, pulling his hands apart, he reveals that the smaller ball has disappeared, as if it has gone into the large one. This technique isn’t limited to round objects and can be used with any item of a manageable size.

With this introduction, we shall now proceed to describe a few of the most popular “ball tricks.”

With this introduction, we will now go on to describe a few of the most popular “ball tricks.”

Fig. 127.

The Ball Box.—The leading idea of most of the tricks which we are about to describe is the magical appearance or disappearance of a ball. So far, they resemble the cup-and-ball tricks described in the last Chapter, but with this difference, that, in the case of the present series, the main effect is produced by mechanical means, any sleight-of-hand employed being rather an accessory than the leading feature. The oldest and simplest of the mechanical appliances for this purpose is that known as the “ball-box,” consisting of a box two to six inches in height, of the shape shown in Fig. 127, and containing a ball which just fills it. The box consists of three portions—the lower portion, or box proper a, the lid c, and an intermediate296 portion b, being a hollow hemisphere coloured externally in imitation of the ball, and so fitted with reference to the box and lid, that it may be either lifted off with the lid, leaving the box apparently empty, or may be left upon the box when the lid is removed, the effect to the eye being as if the ball had returned to the box. The ball-box is generally of turned boxwood, and is scored with concentric circles, which serve to disguise its double opening. Simply stated, its effect is as follows:—The solid ball is first shown in the box, and then openly taken from it, and the box covered with the lid. The ball is then got rid of in one or other of the modes before described, and a pretence is made of passing it invisibly into the box. The lid is removed without the intermediate portion b, and the ball appears to have returned to the box. Again the lid is replaced, and again removed; but this time b is removed with it, and the box again appears empty. The trick in this form is to be found in every toy-shop, and is so well known as to produce scarcely any illusion, but its transparency may be considerably diminished by previously palming (in the right hand) the moveable shell b, the convex side being inwards, and then handing round the remaining portions and the solid ball for inspection. When they are returned, the performer apparently places the ball in the box, but really makes a secret exchange, and places b in the box instead. Upon again removing the lid, and with it b, the ball has disappeared; and as the audience have, as they believe, inspected the whole apparatus, the mode of its disappearance is not quite so obvious as in the first case. At best, however, the ball-box, in this its pristine form, is a clumsy and inartistic contrivance, and has long been relegated to the juvenile and country-fair school of conjuring. There is, however, an improved apparatus for producing a similar effect, which is generally worked in couples, under the name of

The Ball Box.—Most of the tricks we’re about to explain focus on the magical appearance or disappearance of a ball. They’re similar to the cup-and-ball tricks discussed in the last chapter, but with one key difference: in this series, the main effect is achieved through mechanical means, making any sleight-of-hand more of an accessory than the main event. The oldest and simplest mechanical tool for this is the “ball-box,” a box that's two to six inches tall, shaped as shown in Fig. 127, and containing a ball that fits perfectly inside. The box has three parts—the bottom part, or box itself a, the lid c, and a middle portion b, which is a hollow hemisphere colored to look like the ball. This middle part can either be lifted off with the lid, making the box seem empty, or can stay on the box when the lid is taken off, creating the illusion that the ball has returned to the box. The ball-box is typically made of turned boxwood and has concentric circles that help hide its double opening. In simple terms, the effect works like this: the solid ball is first shown in the box, then openly taken out, and the box is covered with the lid. The ball is then disposed of by one of the methods described earlier, and there’s a pretense of making it invisibly re-enter the box. The lid is removed without the middle portion b, and the ball seems to have come back. The lid is replaced and removed again, but this time b is removed with it, and the box appears empty once more. This trick is commonly found in toy shops and is so well known that it hardly creates any illusion. However, its transparency can be reduced by secretly palming (in the right hand) the moveable shell b, with the convex side facing inward, and then showing the other parts and the solid ball for inspection. When those are returned, the performer seems to place the ball in the box but actually makes a secret swap and puts b in the box instead. When the lid is lifted again, along with b, the ball has vanished; and since the audience thinks they inspected the whole setup, the method of its disappearance isn't as obvious as before. Nevertheless, the ball-box in its original form is a clumsy and unrefined device, and it has long been set aside for children's toys and country fair magic shows. However, there is an improved version designed to create a similar effect, which is usually operated in pairs, known as

Fig. 128.

The Red-and-Black-Ball Vases.—The receptacle for the ball is in this case made in the form of a neat vase, and without any297 of those tell-tale grooves which disfigure the older ball-box. (See Fig. 128.) Like its prototype, it is in three parts, which we will distinguish as before by the letters a, b, and c. The portion b, however, in this case goes completely within the lid c, within which it fits just tightly enough to be lifted off with it. When, however, the performer desires to leave b upon a, he presses down, in the act of lifting off the cover, a moveable button or stud at the top. This pushes out the shell b from the cover, and, when the latter is lifted, leaves it upon a. When used in pairs, the ball-vases are usually made with one red and one black ball, the shells b of each vase being also one black and one red. The balls are first offered for examination, after which the red ball is placed in the vase containing the black shell, and the black ball in that which contains the red shell. The vases are then covered, and on the covers being again removed, leaving the hollow shells upon the vases, the red ball being covered by the black shell, and the black ball by the red shell, the effect to the spectator is as if the two balls had changed places. By leaving alternately the one or the other shell over its respective vase, the ball in the opposite vase being left uncovered, the vases may be made to appear as if both containing red balls or both black balls, the genuine balls being finally again exhibited as at first.

The Red and Black Ball Vases.—The container for the ball here is designed as a sleek vase, without any of those obvious grooves that ruin the look of older ball boxes. (See Fig. 128.) Like its predecessor, it has three parts, which we will label as before with the letters a, b, and c. However, in this version, part b fits entirely inside the lid c, and it’s snug enough to be lifted off with the lid. When the performer wants to leave b on a, they push down on a movable button at the top while lifting off the cover. This moves b out of the cover, and when the lid is lifted, it stays on a. When used in pairs, the ball vases usually come with one red ball and one black ball, with the shells b of each vase being one black and one red. The balls are first shown to the audience, then the red ball is placed in the vase with the black shell, and the black ball goes into the vase with the red shell. The vases are covered, and when the covers are removed again, leaving the hollow shells on the vases, the red ball covered by the black shell and the black ball by the red shell creates the illusion that the two balls have switched places. By alternately leaving one shell or the other on its respective vase, while leaving the ball in the opposite vase uncovered, it can appear as though both vases contain red balls or both contain black balls, with the real balls being shown again as they were at the start.

Fig. 129.

There is yet another form of ball-box, also frequently worked in pairs, and designed to simulate the apparent passage of a ball from the one box to the other. The vase in this case consists of two parts only, the vase proper a, and the cover b, but the latter is of such a height as to completely contain the ball, and of such a size internally, that, if the ball be jerked up into the cover, it will not again fall, unless a slight shake be used to displace it. (See Fig. 129.) Each vase has its own ball, and the mode of use is as follows:—One of the vases is prepared beforehand by jerking up the ball into the cover,298 which may then be removed, showing the vase apparently empty; or both may be first shown empty, and the ball then introduced secretly under the cover, after the manner of the cups and balls. The remaining vase and ball are offered for inspection, and when they are returned, the ball is placed within and covered over, after which the closed vase is placed upon the table; but in the act of doing this the performer gives the apparatus a slight upward jerk, thereby causing the ball therein to rise into the cover, where it remains. The second vase is once more shown empty; but in replacing it on the table, the performer puts it down sharply, thereby causing the ball to drop from the cover into the cup. He now orders the ball, which the company have seen placed in the first vase, to pass invisibly into the second; and on again opening the two, this transposition will appear to have taken place, and by a repetition of the process the ball may be made to travel backwards and forwards from one vase to the other.

There’s another type of ball box, often used in pairs, designed to create the illusion of a ball moving from one box to the other. In this case, the vase consists of just two parts: the main vase a and the cover b, but the cover is tall enough to fully hold the ball and the internal space is sized so that if the ball is tossed into the cover, it won’t fall out again unless given a gentle shake to move it. (See Fig. 129.) Each vase has its own ball, and the method of use is as follows: One of the vases is set up in advance by tossing the ball into the cover,298 which can then be removed to show the vase seemingly empty; or both can initially be shown empty, and the ball can then be secretly added under the cover, similar to the cups and balls trick. The other vase and ball are presented for everyone to inspect, and when they are returned, the ball is placed inside and covered up. After that, the closed vase is set on the table; but while doing this, the performer gives the setup a slight upward jerk, causing the ball inside to rise into the cover, where it stays. The second vase is shown as empty again; but when it’s put back on the table, the performer sets it down hard, making the ball drop from the cover into the cup. He then instructs the audience to watch as the ball, which they saw placed in the first vase, seems to move invisibly into the second vase; and upon reopening both vases, it will look like this has occurred, allowing for a repeat of the process so the ball can appear to travel back and forth between the two vases.

Morison’s Pill-box.—In this trick (called by French conjurors La Pilule du Diable) the device of the “shell” is carried still further. The box in this case is spherical, standing upon a thin stem (see Fig. 130), and each part (box proper and lid) contains a half shell, the edge of one having a rebate or shoulder, so as to fit into the other, the conjoined having the appearance of a solid ball. The genuine ball is of such a size as just to fill the hollow shells when thus joined. The lower shell fits loosely in the box, the upper one a little more tightly, so as not to fall out unless pressed down by the button on the top of the lid, which not only loosens it from the lid, but presses it into union with the lower shell.

Morison’s pillbox.—In this trick (known by French magicians as La Pilule du Diable), the concept of the “shell” is taken even further. The box here is spherical and stands on a thin stem (see Fig. 130). Each part (the main box and the lid) holds a half shell; one edge has a ledge or shoulder to fit into the other, making it look like a solid ball when combined. The real ball is sized just right to fill the hollow shells when they're put together. The lower shell sits loosely in the box, while the upper one fits a bit more snugly, so it doesn’t fall out unless pressed down by the button on the lid. This button not only releases the upper shell from the lid but also presses it together with the lower shell.

Fig. 130.

The mode of using the apparatus is as follows:—It is first brought forward with the one half shell in the box, and the other in the lid,299 the true ball, which is of the same colour as the shell (generally black) being placed within the lower shell. The ball is ostentatiously removed, and the box closed. The ball is then either placed in some piece of apparatus adapted to cause its disappearance, or is made to vanish by sleight-of-hand in one or other of the modes already described. The ball is now ordered to return to the box, which, for greater certainty, is once more shown empty. The performer again closes it, pressing as he does so the button on the top of the lid, thus compelling the two half shells to coalesce; and on again re-opening the box, the ball has, to all appearance, returned as commanded. The ball-box now under consideration has this great advantage over the single-shell vases, that the sham ball can be completely removed from the box, and shown on all sides, thus (apparently) negativing the possibility of its being a shell only.

The way to use the device is as follows: It starts with one half of the shell in the box and the other half in the lid, 299 with the actual ball, which is the same color as the shell (usually black), placed inside the lower shell. The ball is then conspicuously taken out, and the box is closed. Next, the ball is either placed in some device designed to make it disappear or is made to vanish through sleight of hand using one of the methods already described. The performer then commands the ball to return to the box, which is shown to be empty once again for added assurance. The performer closes it again, pressing the button on top of the lid, which causes the two halves of the shell to come together. When the box is reopened, it appears that the ball has returned as instructed. The ball box being discussed has a significant advantage over single-shell vases because the fake ball can be completely taken out of the box and shown from all angles, thereby seemingly ruling out the possibility that it’s just a shell.

The trick may be also worked very effectively by using a genuine ball of a different colour to the shell, with the addition of a duplicate of each. Thus, if the shell be black, you must be provided with a solid ball of the same colour, and two red balls. One of the latter, as also the solid black ball, should be of such a size as to go inside the shell, the remaining red ball being of the same size as the shell in its complete condition. The half shells being in their place in the box, the performer brings it forward, together with the smaller red and black ball, keeping the remaining red ball concealed in his palm. Borrowing a handkerchief, he wraps (apparently) the black ball therein, and gives it to some one to hold (really substituting the palmed red ball, and getting rid of the black ball as soon as he can into one of his secret pockets). He then places the remaining red ball in the box, and having covered it over, commands the black ball in the handkerchief to change places with the red one in the box. Upon examination, the change has apparently taken place, the red ball in the box being now enclosed within the hollow shell, and thus having all the appearance of the solid black ball.

The trick can also be done very effectively by using a real ball of a different color from the shell, along with duplicates of each. So, if the shell is black, you need to have a solid black ball and two red balls. One of the red balls, along with the solid black ball, should be small enough to fit inside the shell, while the other red ball should be the same size as the shell when it's whole. With the halves of the shell in the box, the performer presents it along with the smaller red and black balls, keeping the extra red ball hidden in his hand. He borrows a handkerchief and wraps the black ball in it (making it look that way), then hands it to someone to hold (actually swapping it for the hidden red ball and discreetly putting the black ball into one of his secret pockets). Next, he places the remaining red ball into the box, covers it up, and commands the black ball in the handkerchief to swap places with the red one in the box. When checked, it seems the swap has happened, the red ball in the box now appearing to be inside the hollow shell, looking just like the solid black ball.

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The Ball which changes to a Rose.—This is little more than an enlarged edition of the apparatus just described, the ball in Morison’s pill-box being generally of about an inch and a half in diameter, while in the present case the ball is nearly double that size. (See Fig. 131.) The only other difference is the addition of a short pin, about a sixteenth of an inch in length, projecting from the bottom of the cup, and fitting into a corresponding hole in the lower shell. The addition of this pin enables the performer, after having pressed the stud at top, and thus caused the ball to appear in the previously empty box, to again cause its disappearance. This is effected by opening the box with a slight lateral pressure, when the pin acts as a stop or check to hold back the lower shell; and the shells which are in this instance made to fit rather more loosely together, are thus forced to separate again, the lower being left in the cup and the upper in the lid, as before.

The Ball That Becomes a Rose.—This is just a larger version of the apparatus described earlier, with the ball in Morison’s pill-box usually around an inch and a half in diameter, while in this case, the ball is almost twice that size. (See Fig. 131.) The only other difference is the addition of a short pin, about a sixteenth of an inch long, extending from the bottom of the cup and fitting into a matching hole in the lower shell. This pin allows the performer, after pressing the button on top to make the ball appear in the previously empty box, to make it disappear again. This is done by opening the box with a slight sideways pressure, which makes the pin act as a stop to hold back the lower shell; and the shells, which are made to fit together a bit more loosely in this case, are then forced apart again, with the lower shell left in the cup and the upper one in the lid, just like before.

Fig. 131.

This apparatus is generally used with a solid black ball and a couple of artificial rose-buds, as nearly alike as possible. The apparatus is brought forward empty, and with the solid ball and one of the rose-buds, is handed to the audience for inspection. The two half shells, joined together so as to form a hollow ball, with the second rose-bud within, are placed ready to hand in one of the pochettes of the performer. The audience having duly examined the apparatus, the performer returns to his table, secretly exchanging as he does so the solid for the hollow ball. This latter he places openly in the cup, taking care that the hole in the lower shell duly corresponds with the pin at bottom, and puts on the cover. He now announces that the ball which he has just placed in the cup will at command fly away, and that the rose-bud which he holds shall take its place. The disappearance of the visible rose-bud is effected in any way that the invention or the appliances at command of the performer may suggest; and301 on the box being opened, so as to part the two shells, the ball has apparently disappeared, and the rose has taken its place. By again closing the box, and this time pressing the stud on the top, the flower may again be made to vanish, and the ball to reappear in its original position.

This setup typically uses a solid black ball and a couple of artificial rosebuds that look as similar as possible. The setup is presented empty, and the solid ball along with one of the rosebuds is handed to the audience for them to inspect. The two half shells are joined together to create a hollow ball, with the second rosebud inside, and are kept ready in one of the performer’s pockets. Once the audience has examined the setup, the performer returns to the table, secretly swapping the solid ball for the hollow one. He then places the hollow ball visibly in the cup, ensuring the hole in the lower shell aligns with the pin at the bottom, and puts on the cover. He announces that the ball in the cup will fly away on command, and the rosebud he’s holding will take its place. The visible rosebud disappears using any method the performer’s creativity or tools suggest; when the box is opened to separate the two shells, the ball seems to have vanished, and the rose has taken its spot. By closing the box again and pressing the button on top, the flower can vanish once more, and the ball will reappear in its original position.

The popular trick of the “flower in the button-hole,” which will be described under the head of Miscellaneous Tricks, may be used in conjunction with this apparatus, the ball being found in the place of the flower, while the latter is made to appear in the button-hole.

The popular trick of the "flower in the button-hole," which will be described under the Miscellaneous Tricks section, can be used with this apparatus, placing the ball where the flower usually is, while making the flower appear in the button-hole.

A similar apparatus to the above is sometimes made in metal, and of a size sufficient to enclose a cannon-ball, which being made to disappear, its place is supplied by a variety of articles which have been otherwise disposed of at an earlier period.

A similar device to the one above is sometimes made of metal and is large enough to hold a cannonball, which, when made to vanish, is replaced by a variety of items that were disposed of earlier.

The Obedient Ball.—This trick is of Japanese origin, and from that circumstance is sometimes known as the Japanese Ball. It is performed with a large black wooden ball, about five inches in diameter, with a hole bored through it from side to side. A piece of stout rope, four or five feet in length, with a knot at one end, completes the apparatus. The performer commences by passing the rope through the ball, and hands both for examination. The ball is found to run loosely upon the rope, and both are manifestly quite free from mechanism or preparation. The articles being returned, the performer places his foot upon the knotted end of the rope, and taking the other end in his right hand, holds it in a perpendicular position. The ball is raised as far as the length of the rope will admit, and, on being again released, immediately runs down again, as would naturally be expected. The performer now announces that, in obedience to his will, the laws of gravity will be in this particular instance suspended. Accordingly, on his again raising the ball to any portion of the rope, it remains stationary at that height until released by his command, when it instantly runs down. Other persons are invited to come forward, and to place the ball at any height they please, the ball again remaining stationary until released by the word of the operator, when it slowly descends, stopping, however, in its course, and remaining fixed whenever commanded by the performer to do so.

The Compliant Ball.—This trick originates from Japan, which is why it's sometimes called the Japanese Ball. It's performed with a large black wooden ball, about five inches in diameter, that has a hole drilled through it from side to side. A sturdy rope, four or five feet long, with a knot at one end, completes the setup. The performer starts by passing the rope through the ball and handing both items out for examination. The ball slides loosely on the rope, and both are clearly free of any tricks or setup. After the items are returned, the performer steps on the knotted end of the rope, holding the other end upright with his right hand. The ball is lifted as high as the rope allows, and when it’s let go, it naturally falls back down. The performer then claims that, for this trick, the laws of gravity will be suspended at his command. So, when he raises the ball again to any point on the rope, it stays there until he says to release it, at which point it instantly drops. Other participants are invited to come forward and set the ball at any height they choose, and it stays there until the performer commands it to drop slowly, stopping and remaining fixed whenever he tells it to.

302 The secret lies in the fact that the hole in the ball is not made straight from end to end, but curved, with an angle or break in the middle. (See Fig. 132.) So long as the rope is slack, it runs through easily enough, but as soon as it is drawn taut, and thus forced into a straight line, it is clipped by the opposite angles a, b, and c, creating an amount of friction which would support a much greater weight than that of the ball. The performer has, therefore, only to draw the rope taut when he desires the ball to remain stationary, and to slacken when he desires it to run down.

302 The secret is that the hole in the ball isn't straight from one end to the other; it’s curved, with a bend in the middle. (See Fig. 132.) As long as the rope is loose, it moves through easily, but as soon as it’s pulled tight and forced into a straight line, it gets caught by the opposite angles a, b, and c, generating enough friction to support a weight much greater than that of the ball. So, the performer only needs to pull the rope tight when they want the ball to stay still and loosen it when they want the ball to roll down.

Fig. 132. Fig. 133.

There is another form of the Obedient Ball, designed for drawing-room use. The ball in this case is about two and a half inches in diameter, and the bore is straight, but tapering from a quarter of an inch at the one opening to about half an inch at the other. The cord used is a thin piece of whipcord, and the ball therefore runs quite loosely upon it. There is, however, in this case an additional element in the apparatus, consisting of a little black wooden plug, about an inch in length, and tapering so as to fit midway in the bore of the ball. (See Fig. 133, in which a represents a nearly full-sized view of the plug in question.) The plug is bored after the manner of the large ball, the hole being of such a size as to just allow the cord to run through it. This plug is secretly threaded upon the cord before commencing the trick; the cord, which in this case has a tassel instead of a knot at one end, being passed through it from the larger end. This plug is kept concealed303 in the hand of the performer, the string being allowed to dangle down on each side of it. The ball is handed round for examination, and, when returned, the cord is passed through it from the side which has the larger opening. The ball is then allowed to drop quickly to the full extent of the cord. As it runs down, it encounters the plug, which is thereby placed in position within the ball, and both run down together until stopped by the tassel. From this point the working of the trick is the same as with the larger ball.

There’s another version of the Obedient Ball designed for use in a drawing room. In this case, the ball is about two and a half inches in diameter, and the bore is straight but tapers from a quarter of an inch at one end to about half an inch at the other. The cord used is a thin piece of whipcord, allowing the ball to move quite loosely on it. However, this version includes an extra item in the setup: a small black wooden plug, about an inch long, which tapers to fit snugly in the middle of the ball's bore. (See Fig. 133, where a shows an almost full-sized view of the plug.) The plug is bored like the larger ball, creating a hole just big enough for the cord to slide through. This plug is secretly threaded onto the cord before the trick starts; the cord, which has a tassel instead of a knot at one end, is passed through it from the larger side. The plug is hidden in the performer’s hand, with the string hanging down on both sides. The ball is passed around for inspection, and when it’s returned, the cord is threaded through from the side with the larger opening. Then the ball is allowed to drop quickly to the end of the cord. As it slides down, it hits the plug, which gets positioned inside the ball, and both drop together until stopped by the tassel. From here, the trick works the same way as with the larger ball.


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CHAPTER XV.
Hat Tricks.

The present Chapter will be devoted to those tricks in which a hat plays a special or prominent part. Borrowed hats have been used in the course of many of the tricks already described, but the part played by the hat has been of an incidental and subordinate character. In the tricks next following the hat is the principal article employed.

The current chapter will focus on tricks where a hat plays a special or major role. Borrowed hats have been used in many of the tricks already mentioned, but the hat's role has been more incidental and secondary. In the tricks that follow, the hat is the main item being used.

The majority of hat tricks are different modifications of the same broad idea, viz., the production from a borrowed and apparently empty hat of various articles, in size and number much exceeding what any hat could in the natural way contain. One of the best is that of

The majority of hat tricks are different variations of the same broad idea: pulling various items out of a borrowed and seemingly empty hat, in size and number far more than any hat could naturally hold. One of the best is that of

The Cannon-balls in the Hat.—The earliest and simplest form of this trick is limited to the production of a solid wooden globe, blacked to resemble a cannon-ball. The introduction of the ball into the hat is effected as follows:—The ball, which has a hole of about two inches in depth by one in diameter bored in it towards its centre, is placed on the servante of the performer’s table in such manner that the hole above-mentioned shall slant upwards and outwards, at an angle of about 45°. To keep the ball steady, and to prevent its rolling off, some performers have a slight circular hollow scooped in the surface of the servante itself. A more convenient plan, however, is to use an india-rubber ring (such as is given to infants teething). This may be placed on any part of the servante, and makes a capital rest or bed for the ball. A bit of half-inch rope, with the ends joined so as to form a ring, will answer the same purpose.

The cannonballs in the hat.—The earliest and simplest form of this trick involves producing a solid wooden ball that's painted black to look like a cannonball. Here's how the ball is introduced into the hat: The ball, which has a hole about two inches deep and one inch in diameter drilled into its center, is placed on the performer’s table in such a way that the hole slants upwards and outwards at about a 45° angle. To keep the ball stable and prevent it from rolling off, some performers create a slight circular indent in the table's surface. A more convenient option, however, is to use a rubber ring (like the ones given to teething babies). This can be placed anywhere on the table and serves as a great rest for the ball. A piece of half-inch rope, tied into a ring, can work just as well for this purpose.

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Fig. 134.
Fig. 135.

When the performer desires to introduce the ball into the hat, which we will suppose to have been borrowed for the purpose of some previous trick just completed, he takes the hat with his thumb outside and his fingers inside the brim, and holds it up with its mouth towards the spectators, so as to show indirectly that it is empty (see Fig. 134). Carelessly lowering his hand, he brings the hat mouth downwards on the table, and, drawing it towards him, slips the second finger into the hole in the ball (see Fig. 135), when the mere action of crooking the finger brings the ball into the hat. He then, still holding the ball supported by the finger, walks away from the table towards the owner of the hat, with the apparent intention of returning it. Just before reaching him, however, he pretends to notice that it is somewhat heavy, and looking into it, says, “Dear me, sir, there is something rather peculiar about this hat. Are you aware that there is something in it?” The owner naturally professes ignorance of the fact; and the performer, after keeping the audience in suspense for a moment or two, turns the hat over, and lets the ball fall out upon the stage.

When the performer wants to put the ball into the hat, which we’ll assume was borrowed for a previous trick, he takes the hat with his thumb outside and his fingers inside the rim, holding it up with the opening facing the audience to subtly show that it’s empty (see Fig. 134). He then carelessly lowers his hand, placing the hat upside down on the table. As he pulls it towards him, he slips his second finger into the hole in the ball (see Fig. 135), and simply bending his finger brings the ball into the hat. He then, still holding the ball with his finger, walks away from the table toward the hat's owner, seemingly intending to return it. Just before he gets to him, though, he pretends to notice it’s a bit heavy, looks inside, and says, “Wow, sir, there’s something odd about this hat. Did you know there’s something in it?” The owner naturally claims he has no idea; and after keeping the audience in suspense for a moment, the performer flips the hat over, letting the ball drop onto the stage.

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Fig. 136.

The performer may in some degree heighten the effect of the trick by making it appear that the ball is wedged very tightly in the hat, as the difficulty of introducing it becomes thereby presumably the greater. This is managed by holding the hat with both hands, as shown in Fig. 136, when the extended finger-tips will prevent the ball from falling as long as may be desired, however much the hat may be shaken.

The performer can enhance the effect of the trick by making it seem like the ball is really stuck in the hat, which suggests that getting it in is much harder. This is done by holding the hat with both hands, as shown in Fig. 136, so that the tips of the fingers keep the ball from falling out for as long as needed, no matter how much the hat is shaken.

Figs. 137, 138.

The trick, as above described, is of very short duration. In order to lengthen, and at the same time to diversify it, a second ball is sometimes employed, of similar appearance, but of different construction. This second ball (see Figs. 137, 138, the latter representing a section of the ball) is a strongly made hollow sphere of tin or zinc, with a circular opening of about three and a half inches across, closed by a sort of sliding door, a, also circular, working on two curved arms, b b, which move on two pivots, c c, at opposite sides of the ball on the inside. In this door is a hole an inch in diameter, answering the same purpose as the hole bored in the solid ball.

The trick, as described above, lasts for a very short time. To extend and add variety to it, a second ball is sometimes used, which looks similar but is built differently. This second ball (see Figs. 137, 138, which shows a section of the ball) is a sturdy hollow sphere made of tin or zinc, featuring a circular opening about three and a half inches wide, covered by a sliding door, a, which is also circular and operates on two curved arms, b b, that pivot on two hinges, c c, inside the ball on opposite sides. There’s a hole in this door that’s an inch in diameter, serving the same purpose as the hole drilled in the solid ball.

The ball is filled beforehand with bonbons, small toys, or any other articles suitable for production. Thus “loaded,” it is placed upon the servante, and introduced into the hat as above described. The performer goes through the ceremony of pretending to discover something in the hat, but does307 not, as in the last case, at once produce the ball. Slipping back the sliding door, he brings out, one by one, the articles contained in the ball, not hurriedly, but with deliberation, as he thereby produces the effect of greater quantity. Having emptied the ball, he again closes the circular slide, remarking that the hat is now quite empty. As a proof that it is so, he turns the hat mouth downwards as above directed, preventing the ball from falling with the tips of his fingers. Again he moves towards the owner, as if to return the hat, and again pretends to find something in it. This time, however, he does not allow the ball to fall on the ground, as, being hollow, it will not bear rough usage, but lifts it out with his left hand, taking care that the “door” side shall be downwards, next his palm. Observing that he will have the ball packed up for the owner of the hat to take home with him, he returns to his table, and places it thereon. As the ball was in his left hand, the right is still holding the hat, and this gives him the opportunity to introduce the second (i.e., the solid) cannon-ball, which should be placed in readiness at the opposite corner of the servante. This also is produced in due course, and, being manifestly solid, naturally leads the audience to infer that the other was so also.

The ball is filled beforehand with candies, small toys, or any other items suitable for use. Once “loaded,” it's placed on the servante and put into the hat as described above. The performer pretends to discover something in the hat but doesn't immediately produce the ball this time. He opens the sliding door and takes out, one by one, the items inside the ball, not in a rush, but slowly, to create the impression of a larger amount. After emptying the ball, he closes the circular slide again, stating that the hat is now completely empty. To prove this, he turns the hat upside down as previously shown, keeping the ball from falling with his fingertips. He then approaches the owner as if to return the hat and pretends to find something in it. However, he ensures the ball doesn't hit the ground since it's hollow and can't handle rough treatment. Instead, he lifts it out with his left hand, making sure the “door” side is facing down against his palm. Noticing that he needs to pack up the ball for the owner of the hat to take home, he goes back to his table and sets it down. Since the ball is in his left hand, his right is still holding the hat, which allows him to introduce the second (i.e., solid) cannonball, already prepared at the opposite corner of the servante. This is revealed in due time, and since it is clearly solid, the audience naturally concludes that the other one must be solid as well.

Fig. 139.

What are known as “multiplying balls” are frequently used in conjunction with the cannon-balls. These are cloth-covered balls of about two and a half inches in diameter. In appearance they are solid, but in reality are mere outer coverings of cloth, kept distended by spiral skeletons of wire (see Fig. 139), and may be pressed quite flat, in which condition they occupy an exceedingly small space, though they immediately regain their shape on being released. A large number of these may be packed in the hollow cannon-ball, and when taken out, produce a pile extending far above the mouth of the hat, the cannon-ball lying hidden beneath them.

What people call "multiplying balls" are often used alongside cannonballs. These are cloth-covered balls that are about two and a half inches in diameter. They look solid, but they’re really just cloth coverings that are kept stretched out by spiral wire frameworks (see Fig. 139), and they can be pressed flat, taking up a very small space, but they spring back to their original shape as soon as they are released. A large number of these can be packed inside the hollow cannonball, and when taken out, they create a pile that rises well above the opening of the hat, with the cannonball hidden underneath.

The hollow ball may also be filled with soft feathers, of which308 what will seem an incredible quantity when spread out may be compressed into a very small space. Feathers are, however, objectionable in a drawing-room, from the difficulty of collecting them from the carpet.

The hollow ball can also be filled with soft feathers, which, when spread out, seem like an incredible amount but can be compressed into a very small space. However, feathers are not ideal for a living room because they are difficult to collect from the carpet.

The “Hundred Goblets” from a Hat.—The goblets used for this purpose are of polished tin, about four inches in depth, and made without ornament or projection of any kind. Being all of the same size, and slightly tapering, a large number of them may be fitted one within the other, and yet occupy little more space than a single one. The goblets thus packed are placed in a bag of black alpaca, just large enough to receive them, and concealed on the servante, or in one of the profondes of the performer. When it is desired to introduce them into the hat, they are grasped in either hand, the back of the hand being turned towards the audience, and thus covering them. The hand is now carelessly placed in the hat, as though to take something out. Once introduced, the goblets are produced one by one, and placed mouth downward on the table, their number giving an appearance of bulk which seems to exclude the possibility of their having been all contained within so small a space. Two or three parcels of goblets may be introduced successively, and brought out one by one, with little difficulty.

The "Hundred Goblets" from a Hat.—The goblets used for this trick are made of polished tin, about four inches deep, and have no decorations or protrusions. Since they are all the same size and slightly tapered, a lot of them can fit inside each other and still take up only a bit more space than a single goblet. These packed goblets are placed in a black alpaca bag that's just big enough for them, and then hidden on the servante or in one of the performer’s profondes. When it’s time to put them into the hat, the performer holds them in one hand, with the back of the hand facing the audience to conceal them. The hand is then casually placed in the hat, as if to take something out. Once inside, the goblets are produced one by one and placed upside down on the table, creating an impression of quantity that makes it seem impossible that they all fit into such a small space. Two or three batches of goblets can be introduced one after the other and taken out one at a time with ease.

We may here mention a little expedient which will be found of great assistance where the performer desires to introduce into a hat a bundle of goblets (or any similar article) from either of his secret pockets. We will suppose that the article in question is in the right-hand profonde. Taking the empty hat in the opposite hand (the left), he stoops a little, and holding it down near the floor, with its mouth toward the company, gently moves it round and round in circles, gazing at it intently, as though anticipating some important result. This draws all eyes to the hat, and enables him to drop his right hand to the profonde, and bring out, under cover of the hand and wrist, the article to be introduced. Continuing the motion, he gradually brings the mouth of the hat upwards, so that the company can no longer see into it, and suddenly plunges his right hand into it, as though merely to take out the article or articles which he, in fact, thereby introduces. This may be repeated from the profonde on the opposite309 side; and thus two successive packets of articles may be produced without even going near the table.

We should mention a little trick that will be really helpful when the performer wants to put a bunch of goblets (or something similar) into a hat from one of his hidden pockets. Let's say the item is in the right-hand profonde. Holding the empty hat in the opposite hand (the left), he leans down a bit and holds the hat close to the floor, facing the audience. He gently moves it in circles, looking at it intently as if expecting something significant to happen. This catches everyone's attention, allowing him to drop his right hand to the profonde and discreetly pull out the item to be introduced, all while covering it with his hand and wrist. As he continues the motion, he lifts the hat so that the audience can no longer see inside it, and suddenly reaches into it with his right hand, as if simply taking out the item or items that he actually just placed inside. This can be done again from the profonde on the other side, allowing him to produce two consecutive sets of items without even approaching the table.

Fig. 140.

A Dozen Babies from a Hat.—Among the various objects available for production, may be enumerated dolls, of which a dozen, each eight or nine inches in height, may be produced from a borrowed hat. The dolls for this purpose are of coloured muslin, stretched over a framework or skeleton of spiral wire, after the fashion of the multiplying balls (see Fig. 140), and may be compressed vertically to a thickness of about three-quarters of an inch. A dozen of them may be packed within the hollow cannon-ball, described above, resuming their shape as soon as they are released.

A Dozen Babies from a Hat.—Among the different items that can be produced, there are dolls, of which a dozen, each around eight or nine inches tall, can be pulled from a borrowed hat. These dolls are made of colored muslin stretched over a framework of spiral wire, similar to the multiplying balls (see Fig. 140), and can be compressed vertically to a thickness of about three-quarters of an inch. A dozen of them can be packed inside the hollow cannonball described above, returning to their original shape as soon as they are released.

Fig. 141.

The Magic Reticules.—This is one of the most modern hat tricks. The reticules, which are of cardboard covered with leather, are, when expanded, as shown in Fig. 141. They are, however, constructed so as to fold into a very small compass, in manner following. The ends, a a, are only attached to the reticule at their lower edges (which form a kind of leather hinge), and may be folded inwards flat upon the bottom of the reticule. (See Fig. 142.) The ends of the ribbon b, which forms the sling or handle of the reticule, run freely through two holes c c in the upper side of the reticule, and are attached to the ends a a at the points d d. The ends being folded down, as in Fig. 142, the reticule becomes a hollow oblong, open from end to end, as in Fig. 143. The angles, being made of soft leather, are flexible, and by pressing the sides in the direction indicated by the dotted lines (see Fig. 143), the310 reticule is brought into the condition shown in Fig. 144, and, on being again folded, into that shown in Fig. 145, in which condition it is little larger than a pocket-book. Half-a-dozen reticules thus folded, and packed in a bag of black alpaca, or held together by an india-rubber ring, form a small and compact parcel, and are easily introduced into the hat. The performer having got them out of the bag, has only to unfold each, so as to bring it into the condition shown in Fig. 144, when the mere act of lifting the reticule out of the bag by the ribbon b raises the sides and ends, and restores it to the shape shown in Fig. 141.

The Magic Purses.—This is one of the most modern hat tricks. The reticules, made of cardboard covered with leather, expand as shown in Fig. 141. They are designed to fold into a very small size, as follows. The ends, a a, are only attached to the reticule at their lower edges (which act like a leather hinge) and can be folded inward flat against the bottom of the reticule. (See Fig. 142.) The ends of the ribbon b, which serves as the sling or handle of the reticule, slide freely through two holes c c on the top side of the reticule and are secured to the ends a a at points d d. When the ends are folded down, as shown in Fig. 142, the reticule becomes a hollow oblong, open from end to end, as illustrated in Fig. 143. The angles, made of soft leather, are flexible, and by pressing the sides in the direction indicated by the dotted lines (see Fig. 143), the310 reticule transforms into the condition shown in Fig. 144, and, when folded again, into the shape shown in Fig. 145, which is only slightly larger than a wallet. A half-dozen of these folded reticules, packed in a black alpaca bag, or held together with a rubber band, make a small and compact bundle that can easily fit into a hat. Once the performer takes them out of the bag, they just need to unfold each reticule to bring it back to the condition shown in Fig. 144, where simply lifting the reticule out of the bag by the ribbon b automatically raises the sides and ends, restoring it to the shape shown in Fig. 141.

Fig. 142. Fig. 143.
Fig. 144. Fig. 145.

The Drums from the Hat.—In this trick the performer generally begins by producing from the hat a number of the multiplying balls described at page 307. He next produces a miniature drum, prettily ornamented, then another, then a third and a fourth, each being a shade larger than its predecessor, and the last of such a size as barely to be containable within the hat.

The Drums from the Hat.—In this trick, the performer usually starts by pulling out several multiplying balls from the hat, as explained on page 307. Next, he takes out a cute miniature drum, then another, followed by a third and a fourth, with each drum being slightly larger than the one before it, and the last one being just barely able to fit in the hat.

With the reader’s present knowledge, he will readily conjecture that the drums are so constructed as to fit one within the other, the multiplying balls being packed within the smallest of the four. One end of each drum is loose, and falls inwards upon the opposite end, upon which it lies flat, thus giving space for the introduction of another drum, a size smaller. Across the loose end, and parallel to it, is fixed a wire, forming a handle whereby the performer may lift311 the drum out of the hat, the act of doing so raising the end into its proper position, and a wire rim round the inside of each drum preventing the loose end being drawn out altogether. Each drum is taken out with the loose end upwards; but the performer, in placing it on the table, turns it over, thus bringing the solid end up. In default of this precaution, the loose end would fall back again to its old position, and so betray the secret. The drums are usually made oval, rather than round, as they are thus better suited to the shape of a hat.

With the reader’s current understanding, it’s easy to guess that the drums are designed to fit inside one another, with the smaller balls packed into the smallest of the four. One end of each drum is loose and folds inward onto the opposite end, lying flat, which allows for the addition of another drum that’s smaller. A wire is fixed across the loose end, running parallel to it, creating a handle that the performer can use to lift311 the drum out of the hat, simultaneously raising the end into its correct position. A wire rim inside each drum keeps the loose end from being pulled out entirely. Each drum is removed with the loose end facing up, but the performer flips it over when placing it on the table, which positions the solid end on top. If this step isn't taken, the loose end would fall back into its original position and reveal the trick. The drums are typically made oval instead of round, as this shape better fits the contours of a hat.

The Birdcages from the Hat.—Not content with cannon-balls, drums, and ladies’ reticules, the public of the present day requires that birdcages and living birds should be produced from an empty hat.

The Birdcages from the Hat.—Not satisfied with cannonballs, drums, and ladies' handbags, today's audience demands that birdcages and live birds appear from an empty hat.

Fig. 146. Fig. 147.
Fig. 148.

The birdcages used vary in their construction. Some are made to fit one within the other, after the fashion of the drums just described, save that the birdcages, unlike the drums, are lifted out by the solid and not the loose ends, which fall down of their own accord. Those in most general use, however, are of the shape shown in Fig. 146, and are alike in size, measuring about six inches in height, by five in breadth and depth. The bottom is made to slide upwards on the upright wires which form the sides. When it is desired to prepare the cage for use, a canary is first placed therein,312 and the bottom is then pushed up as far as it will go (see Fig. 147), the sides, which work on hinges at a a a a, being folded one by one upon the bottom, the cage finally assuming the shape shown in Fig. 148. It is in this condition that the cages, generally three in number, are introduced into the hat, either from the servante or from inside the vest of the performer; and in the act of lifting out (which is done by the wire loop at top), the sides and bottom falling down, the cage again becomes as in Fig. 146.

The birdcages used vary in their design. Some are built to fit one inside another, like the drums mentioned earlier, except that the birdcages, unlike the drums, are lifted out by the solid ends, not the loose ones, which fall down on their own. However, the most commonly used ones are shaped as shown in Fig. 146, and they are all about six inches tall, five inches wide, and five inches deep. The bottom slides up along the upright wires that make up the sides. When it's time to prepare the cage for use, a canary is first placed inside,312 and then the bottom is pushed up as far as it can go (see Fig. 147). The sides, which are hinged at a a a a, are then folded one by one onto the bottom, and the cage finally takes the shape shown in Fig. 148. In this condition, the cages—usually three in number—are placed into the hat, either from the servante or from inside the performer’s vest; and as they are lifted out (which is done by the wire loop at the top), the sides and bottom fall down, and the cage returns to its shape as shown in Fig. 146.

Fig. 149.

The Cake (or Pudding) in the Hat.—This is an old and favourite hat trick. The necessary apparatus consists of two parts—first, a round tin pan a (see Fig. 149), four inches in depth, and tapering from five inches at its greatest to four and a half inches at its smallest diameter. It is open at each end, but is divided into two parts by a horizontal partition at about two-thirds of its depth. Second, a larger tin b, japanned to taste, five and a half inches in depth, and so shaped as to fit somewhat tightly over the smaller tin. In the larger end of the latter is placed a hot cake or pudding, and in this condition it is placed on the servante of the table, projecting a little over the edge. The performer borrows a hat, and in passing behind his table, tips cake and tin together into it. The chances are that the tin will fall small end upwards (the opposite end being the heaviest); but if not, the performer turns the tin, so as to bring it into that position. Placing the hat mouth upwards upon the table, he announces his intention of making a cake in it; for which purpose he takes, one by one, and mixes in the tin b, a quantity of flour, raisins, eggs, sugar, and the other ingredients for a cake, adding water enough313 to make the mixture into a thick batter. This he pours into the hat, holding the tin with both hands, at first high above it, but gradually bringing it lower and lower, till at last, as if draining the last drop of the mixture, he lowers the mouth of the tin right into the hat, and brings it well down over the smaller tin. On being again raised, it brings away within it the smaller tin and its liquid contents, the cake being left in the hat. He next proceeds to bake the cake, by moving the hat backwards and forwards at a short distance over the flame of a candle, and, after a sufficient interval, exhibits the result, which is cut up and handed round to the company for their approval.

The Cake (or Pudding) in the Hat.—This is a classic and popular magic trick. The required setup has two main parts—first, a round tin pan a (see Fig. 149), four inches deep, tapering from five inches at its widest to four and a half inches at its narrowest diameter. It is open at both ends but is divided into two sections by a horizontal partition about two-thirds of the way down. Second, a larger tin b, decorated as desired, five and a half inches deep, shaped to fit fairly tightly over the smaller tin. In the larger end of the smaller tin, a hot cake or pudding is placed; this setup is set on the edge of the table. The performer borrows a hat and, passing behind the table, tips both the cake and the tin into it. It’s likely that the tin will land small end up (the other end being heavier); if not, the performer adjusts the tin to get it into that position. With the hat facing up on the table, he announces he’ll be making a cake in it; for this, he takes a quantity of flour, raisins, eggs, sugar, and other ingredients for a cake, mixing them one by one in the tin b, adding enough water to make a thick batter. He then pours this into the hat, holding the tin high above it at first, then gradually lowering it, until, as if he’s draining the last drop, he puts the mouth of the tin directly into the hat and lowers it all the way over the smaller tin. When he raises it again, it brings along the smaller tin and its contents, leaving the cake in the hat. He then bakes the cake by moving the hat back and forth a short distance over a candle flame, and after a while, reveals the result, which is cut up and shared with the audience for their enjoyment.

As the batter round the sides of b is apt to cause a to stick pretty tightly into it, a folding ring is generally fixed inside a, in order to facilitate its removal after the close of the trick.

As the batter goes around the sides of b, it tends to make a stick pretty tightly. So, a folding ring is usually attached inside a to make it easier to remove after the trick is done.

The Welsh Rabbit.—This is a trick of a comic character, and in the hands of a spirited performer is sure to be received with applause, particularly by the younger members of the audience. Its effect is as follows:—The performer brings in in one hand a saucepan, fancifully decorated, and in the other a plate, with bread, cheese, pepper, etc. With these ingredients he proposes to make a Welsh Rabbit, and to give the audience, without extra charge, a lesson in cookery. Chopping the bread and cheese together in a burlesque fashion, and seasoning with pepper and salt to a degree which no palate short of a salamander’s could possibly stand, he shovels all into the saucepan, and claps the lid on. For a moment he is at a loss for a fire, but this difficulty is quickly conquered. Borrowing a gentleman’s hat, and a lady’s pocket-handkerchief, he requests permission to use them for the purpose of the experiment. This is readily accorded, but the respective owners look on with consternation when the performer proceeds to set fire to the handkerchief, and, dropping it still blazing into the hat, to cook the Welsh Rabbit by moving the saucepan to and fro over the flames. Having done this for a minute or two, he extinguishes the flames by lowering the saucepan for a moment into the hat. Then again removing it, and taking off the lid, he brings it forward to the company, and exhibits, not the expected Welsh Rabbit, or “rare-bit,” but a genuine live rabbit, every vestige of the cheese and other ingredients having disappeared.

Welsh Rarebit.—This is a gag from a comedic character, and in the hands of an energetic performer, it's sure to get applause, especially from the younger audience members. The trick goes like this: The performer enters with a whimsically decorated saucepan in one hand and a plate with bread, cheese, pepper, and other ingredients in the other. He plans to make a Welsh Rabbit and, as a bonus, give the audience a cooking lesson. He chops the bread and cheese together in a silly manner and adds so much pepper and salt that only a salamander could handle it, before tossing everything into the saucepan and slapping the lid on. For a moment, he pretends to struggle with finding a fire, but he quickly solves the problem. Borrowing a man's hat and a woman's handkerchief, he asks if he can use them for the demonstration. They agree, but the owners watch in shock as the performer sets the handkerchief on fire and drops it into the hat, cooking the Welsh Rabbit by waving the saucepan over the flames. After a minute or two, he puts out the fire by momentarily lowering the saucepan into the hat. He then removes it, takes off the lid, and presents to the audience not the expected Welsh Rabbit, or “rare-bit,” but a real live rabbit, with all the cheese and other ingredients completely gone.

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Fig. 150.

The secret of this ingenious trick lies mainly in the construction of the saucepan, which consists of four parts, designated in the diagram (Fig. 150) by the letters a, b, c, and d; a is the lid, which has no speciality, save that the rim round it is rather deeper than usual; b is a shallow tray or lining, of the same depth as the lid, fitting easily within the top of the saucepan; a, on the contrary, fits tightly within b; c is the body of the saucepan, and has no speciality; d is an outer sheet or covering, loosely fitting the lower part of the saucepan, and, like it, is japanned plain black, the upper part and lid being generally of an ornamental pattern. (For our own part, we much prefer either plain black or polished tin throughout, as savouring less of mechanism or preparation.) The presence or absence of d does not alter the general appearance of the saucepan, and cannot, therefore, be detected by the eye. It should be mentioned that d is so made, that between its bottom and the bottom of the saucepan is a space of about half an inch in depth, and in this space, before the apparatus is brought forward, is placed a substitute handkerchief, sprinkled with a few drops of spirits of wine or eau de Cologne, to render it more inflammable; within the saucepan is placed a small live rabbit, after which b is put in its place, and pressed down.

The secret of this clever trick mainly lies in how the saucepan is built, which has four parts, labeled in the diagram (Fig. 150) with the letters a, b, c, and d; a is the lid, which is pretty standard except that the rim around it is a bit deeper than usual; b is a shallow tray or lining, the same depth as the lid, that fits easily within the top of the saucepan; a fits snugly inside b; c is the body of the saucepan and is also pretty standard; d is an outer sheet or covering that loosely fits around the lower part of the saucepan and, like the saucepan, is painted plain black, while the upper part and lid usually have a decorative pattern. (Personally, we prefer either plain black or polished tin all over, as it feels less mechanical or prepared.) The presence or absence of d doesn’t change the overall look of the saucepan and can’t be easily noticed. It’s worth mentioning that d is designed so that there is about a half-inch gap between its bottom and the bottom of the saucepan, and in this gap, before the apparatus is set up, a substitute handkerchief is placed, sprinkled with a few drops of spirits or eau de Cologne to make it more flammable; inside the saucepan is a small live rabbit, and then b is put in place and pressed down.

Fig. 151.

The performer is now ready to begin the trick. He brings forward the saucepan, holding it as in Fig. 151, in which position the pressure of the first and second fingers on d prevents it falling off, as, being loose, it would otherwise do. Placing it on the table, he mixes the bread, cheese, etc., on the plate, and then pours all into the saucepan, where, of course, they fall into b. As b is comparatively shallow, it is well to place the saucepan in some tolerably315 elevated situation, so that the audience may not be able to see into it, or they may perceive that the bread, etc., do not fall to the bottom. The lid is next placed on the saucepan. The hat and handkerchief are borrowed, the latter, which is to serve as fuel, being dropped into the hat. The performer, as if bethinking himself of a possible difficulty, carelessly remarks, “We mustn’t have the stove too small for the saucepan;” and so saying, lifts the latter, as shown in Fig. 151, and lowers it for a moment into the hat, as though testing their relative sizes. In that moment, however, he relaxes the pressure of his fingers on d, and so leaves it within the hat, placing the saucepan on the table beside it. When he again takes out the (supposed) handkerchief, and sets light to it, it is, of course, the substitute that is actually burnt, the genuine handkerchief meanwhile remaining hidden beneath d in the crown. The effect of the flames rising from the hat, in which the audience cannot suppose any preparation, is very startling, and yet, unless the substitute handkerchief is unusually large, or the spirit has been applied with a too liberal hand, there is no real danger of injuring the hat. The performer moves about the saucepan above the blaze at such a distance as not to inconvenience the animal within, and, after a moment or two, brings the saucepan sharply down into the hat, for the ostensible purpose of extinguishing the flames, but in again lifting it out he brings with it d, and places all together on the table. Nothing is now left in the hat but the borrowed handkerchief, which may be restored in any manner which the performer’s fancy may suggest. When the lid of the saucepan is removed, as it fits more tightly within b than the latter fits within the saucepan, it316 naturally carries b with it, thus causing the disappearance of the bread, cheese, etc., and revealing in its place the live rabbit.

The performer is now ready to start the trick. He holds up the saucepan, gripping it as in Fig. 151, where the pressure from his first and second fingers on d keeps it from falling off, since it would be loose otherwise. After placing it on the table, he mixes the bread, cheese, and other items on the plate, then pours everything into the saucepan, where they drop into b. Since b is relatively shallow, it's best to position the saucepan at a higher spot, so the audience can't see inside it, or they might notice that the bread, etc., don't reach the bottom. Next, he puts the lid on the saucepan. He borrows a hat and handkerchief, dropping the handkerchief, which will be used as fuel, into the hat. The performer, as if considering a potential issue, casually states, “We can’t have the stove too small for the saucepan;” and while saying this, he lifts the saucepan, as shown in Fig. 151, and briefly lowers it into the hat to check their sizes. In that moment, however, he relaxes the pressure on d, leaving it in the hat, while he puts the saucepan back on the table next to it. When he takes out the (supposed) handkerchief and sets it on fire, it’s actually the substitute that burns, while the real handkerchief stays hidden under d in the crown. The flames rising from the hat, which the audience can't assume has any preparation, are shocking, yet unless the substitute handkerchief is very large or there’s too much flammable liquid, there’s no significant risk of damaging the hat. The performer moves the saucepan over the flames at a safe distance from the animal inside and, after a moment, brings the saucepan down into the hat to put out the flames, but when he lifts it out again, he brings d with it and places everything on the table. Now, the only thing left in the hat is the borrowed handkerchief, which can be returned in any way the performer chooses. When he removes the lid of the saucepan, since it fits more snugly within b than b fits within the saucepan, it naturally lifts b with it, causing the bread, cheese, etc., to vanish and revealing the live rabbit in its place.

Some fun may be created by selecting beforehand an assistant from the juvenile portion of the audience, and dressing him up with a pocket-handkerchief round his head, and another by way of apron, to act as assistant cook.

Some fun can be had by choosing an assistant from the young audience ahead of time, dressing him up with a handkerchief around his head and another one as an apron, to play the role of assistant cook.

A guinea-pig or small kitten may be substituted for the rabbit, the performer accounting for the wrong animal being produced by supposing that he must have made some mistake in mixing the ingredients.

A guinea pig or a small kitten can be used instead of the rabbit, with the performer explaining the mix-up by saying that he must have made some mistake in mixing the ingredients.


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CHAPTER XVI.
Various Tips.

Under this head we propose to describe such tricks as do not come within either of the preceding categories. We shall make no attempt at classifying them, save that we shall, as far as practicable, describe the best known and simplest feats first, and thence proceed to the more complicated. Stage tricks, i.e., tricks adapted to the stage only, will be treated in the Chapter next following. We will begin with

Under this section, we plan to describe tricks that don't fit into the categories mentioned before. We won’t try to classify them; instead, we will start with the best-known and simplest feats, and then move on to the more complicated ones. Stage tricks, i.e., tricks specifically designed for the stage, will be covered in the next chapter. We'll begin with

The Cut String Restored.—This is a trick of such venerable antiquity, that we should not have ventured to allude to it, were it not that the mode of working which we are about to describe, though old in principle, is new in detail, and much superior in neatness to the generally known methods.

The Cut String Fixed.—This is a trick so old that we wouldn’t have brought it up if it weren’t for the fact that the method we’re about to explain, while traditional in principle, is fresh in its details and much better in its precision compared to the common techniques known today.

Fig. 152.

After having offered the string, which should be about four feet in length, for examination, the performer takes the ends (pointing upwards) between the first and second finger and thumb of the left hand, and the first finger and thumb of the right hand, letting the remainder of the string hang down in a loop between them. Now bringing the right hand close to the left, he draws that portion of the string which is held in the right hand towards himself between the first and second fingers of the left hand (thus crossing at right angles that end of the cord which is held in the left hand), continuing to pull until half the length of the string has passed the left hand, and at the same time slipping the third finger of the left hand between the two parts of the string, which will thus be as shown in Fig. 152, in which, for convenience of reference, the three lines in which the318 string now hangs are marked a, b, and c, and one-half of the string is shown black, and the other half white, though of course there would be no such difference of colour in the original.L The first finger and thumb of the right hand, still retaining the end which they already hold, seize the portion b at the point marked with that letter, the third finger of the left hand at the same time drawing back the portion a towards the palm of the hand. The string will thus be brought into the position shown in Figs. 153 and 154, (in the latter of which, for the sake of clearness, the thumbs are made transparent), the part now held horizontally between the two hands, which appears to be the middle of the string, really being only the immediate continuation of the end held in the left hand. The whole operation of arranging the string in proper position, though tedious to describe, does not take half a second in practice.

After showing the string, which should be about four feet long, for examination, the performer holds the ends (pointing upwards) between the first and second fingers and thumb of the left hand, and the first finger and thumb of the right hand, letting the rest of the string hang down in a loop between them. Then, bringing the right hand close to the left, he pulls the part of the string that’s in the right hand towards himself between the first and second fingers of the left hand (crossing at right angles the end of the string held in the left hand), continuing to pull until half the length of the string has passed the left hand, while slipping the third finger of the left hand between the two parts of the string. This will show as in Fig. 152, where the three lines in which the318 string now hangs are labeled a, b, and c, with one half of the string shown in black and the other half in white, although there wouldn’t actually be any color difference in the original.L The first finger and thumb of the right hand, still holding the end they have, grab the portion b at the point marked with that letter, while the third finger of the left hand simultaneously pulls back the portion a towards the palm. This will position the string as shown in Figs. 153 and 154, (in the latter of which, to make it clearer, the thumbs are shown as transparent), with the part now held horizontally between the two hands, which seems to be the middle of the string, actually being just the continuation of the end held in the left hand. Though it may seem tedious to describe, the entire process of positioning the string takes less than half a second in practice.

L It should be mentioned that, in order to economize space in the diagrams, the actual length of the string is represented as much shortened.

L It's worth noting that, to save space in the diagrams, the actual length of the string is shown as significantly shortened.

Fig. 153.

The performer next requests some person to cut the string, thus arranged, in half, and this being (apparently) done, he transfers the319 string altogether to the right hand, keeping the point of junction of the crossed pieces hidden between the finger and thumb. (See Fig. 155.) He now gives either end to some one to hold, and, placing his open left hand near to the end thus held, winds the string rapidly round it, sliding off as he does so the short piece, which, as soon as it is clear of the longer portion, he presses with his thumb between the second and third fingers of the same hand. On again unwinding the string from the left hand, it is found apparently whole as at first.

The performer then asks someone to cut the string, which is set up this way, in half. Once that’s (seemingly) done, he shifts the string entirely to his right hand, hiding the point where the pieces cross between his finger and thumb. (See Fig. 155.) Now, he gives either end to someone to hold and, placing his open left hand near the end being held, quickly winds the string around it. As he does this, he slides off the short piece, which he presses with his thumb between the second and third fingers of the same hand as soon as it’s clear of the longer piece. When he unwinds the string from his left hand again, it looks like it’s whole, just as it was at first.

Fig. 154. Fig. 155. Fig. 156.

The principle of the trick being very generally known, you will frequently find some one of the audience proclaim his acquaintance with it, and declare that you have merely cut a short piece off the end of the string. “Pardon me,” you reply, “my dear sir; that method of performing the trick has long since been exploded. I will at once show you that I do not make use of any such shabby expedient. Of course, if a piece was, as you suggest, cut off the end, the string would be that much shorter after the operation. Will some one be kind enough to measure it?” While this is being done, you secretly double in a loop the little piece which was cut off on the former occasion, and which has still remained in your right hand. When the string is returned to you, you double it in half, and allow it to hang down between the first finger and thumb of the right hand, drawing up immediately above it the little loop you have just formed. (See Fig. 156.) You now ask some one again to cut the string, which he apparently does, in reality merely dividing the little loop. You go through any magical gesticulations you please, and ultimately again conceal the cut ends between the fingers, and produce the string320 once more restored. On being measured, it is found to have lost nothing of its length.

The principle of the trick is pretty well known, so you'll often hear someone in the audience claim they know how it's done and say that you just cut a small piece off the end of the string. “Excuse me,” you respond, “my dear sir; that way of doing the trick was debunked a long time ago. Let me show you that I don’t use any such cheap trick. If, as you suggest, a piece was cut from the end, the string would definitely be shorter afterward. Would someone please be kind enough to measure it?” While that’s happening, you secretly create a loop with the small piece that was cut off earlier, which you still have in your right hand. When the string is handed back to you, you fold it in half and let it hang down between your thumb and first finger, pulling up the little loop you just formed right above it. (See Fig. 156.) You then ask someone to cut the string again, which they seemingly do, but they're really just splitting the little loop. You can make any magical gestures you like and ultimately hide the cut ends between your fingers, then bring out the string320 looking completely whole again. When measured, it turns out to have lost none of its length.

The trick in this second form being performed by wholly different means, the repetition will puzzle even those who knew, or believed they knew, the modus operandi in the first case.

The trick in this second form is done through completely different methods, so the repetition will confuse even those who knew, or thought they knew, the modus operandi in the first case.

Fig. 157.

My Grandmother’s Necklace.—The trick which bears this title is also a very old one, but is little known in the improved form we are about to describe. In its older shape it is performed with three perforated wooden balls or beads, threaded on a couple of tapes, whose ends are held securely by two of the spectators. The problem is to detach the beads without breaking the tapes, and this is effected as follows:—The tapes, which should be from four to six feet in length, are beforehand doubled in the middle, and slightly joined at the bend of each with fine cotton or silk of the same colour. The tapes are thus really middle to middle, though to a casual observer they appear to be merely laid side by side. The performer comes forward with the tapes, thus prepared, thrown over his left arm (taking care that the point of junction shall be on the side towards his body, and therefore concealed), and with the beads in his hands. These latter, which are mere wooden balls, from one to two inches in diameter, perforated so as to freely admit the tapes, he hands for examination. When they are returned, he threads them one after another upon the tapes, holding the latter in a loop, so that the balls may sink down to the middle, and so cover the point of junction. He next requests two of the company to come forward and hold the tapes, and hands two ends to the one and two to the other. Each person believes that he holds one end of each tape, though, in reality, each has both ends of the same tape. The performer now takes from each one of the ends which he holds, and crossing the tapes in the manner shown in Fig. 157, gives to each the end which the other previously held. Holding a hat below the balls, he requests each person to pull smartly at the321 word “three.” The word of command is given, “One, two, Three!” and the thread breaking, the balls fall into the hat, though the ends of the tapes still remain in the hands of the holders.

My Grandma's Necklace.—The trick with this title is quite old, but it isn't well known in the improved way we're about to explain. In its earlier version, it's done using three wooden balls or beads with holes in them, strung on two pieces of tape, whose ends are held tightly by two audience members. The challenge is to detach the beads without breaking the tapes, and here's how it's done: The tapes, each four to six feet long, are first folded in the middle and lightly tied together at the bend with fine cotton or silk of the same color. So, the tapes are actually attached at the middle, but to an onlooker, they just seem to be lying next to each other. The performer comes forward with the prepared tapes draped over their left arm (making sure the joint is facing inwards and hidden) and holding the beads in their hands. These beads, simple wooden balls from one to two inches in diameter with holes large enough for the tapes to pass through, are handed out for inspection. Once returned, he threads them one by one onto the tapes, keeping the tapes in a loop so that the balls rest in the middle, concealing the joint. Next, he asks two audience members to come forward and hold the tapes, handing two ends to one person and two to the other. Each person thinks they’re holding one end of each tape, but in reality, both have both ends of the same tape. The performer then takes the ends from each one that he holds and, crossing the tapes as shown in Fig. 157, gives each person the end that the other used to hold. Holding a hat beneath the beads, he instructs each participant to pull hard on the count of “three.” He gives the command, “One, two, Three!” and as the threads snap, the beads drop into the hat, while the ends of the tapes stay in the hands of the holders.

The improvement to which we have alluded consists in the use of six balls, three red and three black. The red balls having been first threaded on the tapes, and the two ends having been crossed and returned to the holders in manner already described, the black balls are in turn threaded on the tapes at either end, and the performer, holding the hat beneath, and addressing one of the persons who hold the tapes, says, “Which will you have, sir, the red balls or the black?” Whichever the answer, the result is the same, for the red balls only can come off the tapes, the black remaining still upon them; but in either case the performer is able to satisfy the choice which has been made. If the red balls have been chosen, he says on their falling, “You chose the red, I think. You see that your commands are at once obeyed.” If, on the other hand, the black are chosen, the performer says, “You prefer the black? Then I will take the red,” which he does accordingly. The audience, having heard the choice freely offered, and not being aware of the subterfuge by which the implied undertaking is fulfilled, naturally believe that the performer was able to take off or leave on the tape whichever group of balls he pleased.

The improvement we've mentioned involves using six balls, three red and three black. The red balls are first threaded onto the tapes, and the two ends are crossed and returned to the holders as described earlier. Then, the black balls are threaded onto the tapes at either end. The performer, holding a hat underneath, asks one of the people holding the tapes, “Which will you choose, sir, the red balls or the black?” Regardless of the answer, the result is the same because only the red balls can come off the tapes, while the black ones stay put. However, in either case, the performer can fulfill the choice that’s been made. If the red balls are chosen, he states as they fall, “You chose the red, I believe. You see that your wishes are immediately honored.” If the black balls are chosen instead, the performer replies, “You prefer the black? Then I will take the red,” and he does so. The audience, having heard the choice freely made, and unaware of the trick that ensures the implied promise is kept, naturally believes that the performer can choose to take off or leave on whichever group of balls he wants.

The “Bonus Genius,” or Vanishing Doll.—While upon the subject of old-fashioned tricks, we may briefly notice that known under the name of the Bonus Genius, which has puzzled many generations of our forefathers, and, though now rarely exhibited by professional performers, is still a great favourite with juvenile audiences. The Bonus Genius is a little wooden figure of a man, four to six inches in height, and more or less grotesque in colour and design. A little cloak, made small above and full below, like the skirt of a doll’s dress, and with no opening save where the head of the figure passes through, completes the apparatus. There are, however, two points about the doll and his cloak which are unknown to the spectators. First, the head of the doll is moveable, a wooden peg forming the neck, and fitting, somewhat tightly, into a corresponding hole in the body; secondly, there is stitched on the inside of the322 cloak, just below the opening for the neck, a little pocket, of the description known among tailors as a “patch” pocket, and of such a size as to contain the head easily. The performer, holding up the figure, and introducing it to the company as his flying messenger, warranted to outstrip the electric telegraph, covers it with the cloak, so that nothing but the head is seen. Grasping the figure under the cloak with his right hand, the performer holds a burlesque conversation with him, finally entrusting him with a message to be immediately delivered to the President of the United States, the Shah, or any other individual at a distance. The figure does not move. “Well, sir, are you not going?” asks the performer. The figure shakes his head from side to side, an effect easily produced by turning the body backwards and forwards under the cloak. “You won’t, eh? Why not, I should like to know? Oh! I see what you mean. I haven’t given you your travelling expenses.” As he says the last words, he grasps the figure and cloak from the outside round the neck with the left hand, and draws away the right from beneath the cloak, secretly carrying with it the body, and putting his hand in his pocket, as though in search of money. He leaves the body of the figure in his pocket, and brings out the hand again empty, but in the position of holding a coin between the finger and thumb. “There, sir,” he says, “there is a shilling for you,” making the gesture of giving it. “You don’t see the coin, ladies and gentlemen; but the fact is, what I have just given him is fairy money; the weight of the ordinary coinage would interfere with the rapidity of his flight. Now, sir, make haste; you have nothing to wait for now.”

The "Bonus Genius," or the Vanishing Doll.—While talking about classic tricks, we should briefly mention the Bonus Genius, which has puzzled many generations of our ancestors. Although it’s rarely performed by professionals today, it’s still a big hit with younger audiences. The Bonus Genius is a small wooden figure of a man, four to six inches tall, with a colorful and often silly design. A little cloak, fitted tightly at the top and flowing at the bottom, similar to a doll's dress, completes the setup, with only the figure's head sticking out. However, there are two secrets about the doll and his cloak that the audience doesn’t know. Firstly, the doll's head is movable, attached by a wooden peg that fits tightly into a hole in the body. Secondly, inside the cloak, just below the neck opening, there’s a little pocket known as a “patch” pocket, sized perfectly to hold the head. The performer holds up the figure, introducing it as his flying messenger, promising it can deliver messages faster than the electric telegraph. He covers it with the cloak, so only the head is visible. Grasping the figure under the cloak with his right hand, he playfully talks to it, eventually assigning it a message for the President of the United States, the Shah, or anyone else far away. The figure remains still. “Well, are you not going?” the performer asks. The figure shakes its head side to side, a simple trick achieved by moving the body back and forth under the cloak. “You won’t, huh? Why not, if I may ask? Oh! I see. I haven’t given you your travel money.” As he says this, he grabs the figure and cloak by the neck with his left hand, pulling his right hand away from under the cloak, secretly taking the body with it while pretending to search for money in his pocket. He leaves the body inside his pocket and pulls his hand out empty, but positioned as if holding a coin between his fingers. “There you go,” he says, “Here’s a shilling for you,” mimicking the gesture of handing it over. “You can’t see the coin, ladies and gentlemen; but the truth is, what I just gave him is fairy money; the weight of a regular coin would slow him down. Now, hurry up, you’ve got nothing to wait for now.”

The performer has, meanwhile, again put the right hand under the cloak, and with two fingers holds the little pocket open for the reception of the head. As he says the last words, he gives the head a sharp downward rap with the fingers of the left hand, and lets it fall into the little pocket, the effect being as if the figure had suddenly vanished. The performer shakes the cloak, and turns it inside out to show that it is empty, taking care always to grasp it by that part which contains the head, when all other portions of the cloak may be shown freely; and as the audience are not aware that the figure is divisible, and supposing it to be indivisible, it would be323 clearly much too large to be concealed in the closed hand, there is nothing to lead them to guess the secret. If it is desired to make the doll reappear, the head is pushed up again through the opening of the cloak, the hand beneath supporting it by the peg which forms the neck, and it may thus be made to vanish and return any number of times.

The performer has once again placed the right hand under the cloak and, with two fingers, holds the small pocket open to receive the head. As he finishes his last words, he gives the head a quick downward tap with his left fingers and lets it drop into the small pocket, creating the illusion that the figure has suddenly disappeared. The performer shakes the cloak and turns it inside out to show that it’s empty, always making sure to hold it by the part that contains the head while he can freely show the rest of the cloak. Since the audience doesn't realize that the figure can be taken apart and believes it to be whole, and knowing it’s too large to fit in a closed hand, there’s nothing to make them suspect the secret. If he wants the doll to reappear, he pushes the head back up through the opening of the cloak, supporting it from underneath by the peg that forms the neck, allowing it to vanish and return as many times as he wants.

With tolerable skill in “palming,” the little pocket may be dispensed with, the head being simply held in the hand. This mode of working is, in our own opinion, to be preferred, as the cloak may then be handed for examination without giving even the infinitesimal clue which the pocket might suggest. Some performers, to still further hoodwink the spectators, make use of two figures—the first, which is handed round for inspection, being solid, and being afterwards secretly changed for its counterpart with the moveable head. Others again use only one figure, which is solid throughout, but are provided with a separate head (whose existence is, of course, not suspected by the spectators), and having handed round the solid figure for examination, conceal this, and work the trick with the head only.

With decent skill in "palming," you can skip the little pocket and just hold the head in your hand. In our opinion, this method is better because you can pass the cloak around for inspection without giving away any tiny hints that the pocket might hint at. Some performers, to further trick the audience, use two figures—the first one, which is passed around for inspection, is solid and is later secretly swapped for the version with the movable head. Others use just one figure that’s solid all the way through but have a separate head (which the audience doesn't suspect exists). After they show the solid figure for inspection, they hide this one and perform the trick using just the head.

The Dancing Sailor.—The Dancing Sailor is a figure cut out of cardboard, eight or nine inches in height, and with its arms and legs cut out separately, and attached to the trunk with thread in such a manner as to hang perfectly free. The mode of exhibiting it is as follows:—The performer, taking a seat facing the company, with his legs slightly apart, places the figure on the ground between them. As might be expected, it falls flat and lifeless, but after a few mesmeric passes it is induced to stand upright, though without visible support, and on a lively piece of music being played, dances to it, keeping time, and ceasing as soon as the music ceases.

The Dancing Sailor.—The Dancing Sailor is a cutout figure made of cardboard, about eight or nine inches tall, with its arms and legs separately cut and attached to the body with thread so they hang freely. Here’s how it’s shown: The performer sits facing the audience with their legs slightly apart and places the figure on the ground between them. Naturally, it falls flat and lifeless, but after a few mesmerizing gestures, it manages to stand upright without any visible support. When a lively piece of music is played, it dances to the beat, stopping as soon as the music ends.

Fig. 158.

The secret lies in the fact that, from leg to leg of the performer, at about the height of the figure from the ground, is fixed (generally by means of a couple of bent pins), a fine black silk thread, of eighteen or twenty inches in length. This allows him to move about without any hindrance. On each side of the head of the figure is a little slanting cut, tending in a perpendicular direction, and about half an inch in length. The divided portions of the cardboard are bent back a little, thus forming two “hooks,” so to speak, at the sides of the324 head. When the performer takes his seat as before mentioned, the separation of his legs draws the silk comparatively taut, though, against a moderately dark background, it remains wholly invisible. When he first places the figure on the ground, he does so simply, and the figure naturally falls. He makes a few sham mesmeric passes over it, but still it falls. At the third or fourth attempt, however, he places it so that the little hooks already mentioned just catch the thread (see Fig. 158, showing the arrangement of the head), and the figure is thus kept upright. When the music commences, the smallest motion, or pretence of keeping time with the feet, is enough to start the sailor in a vigorous hornpipe.

The secret is that, from leg to leg of the performer, at about the height of the figure from the ground, a fine black silk thread, usually secured with a couple of bent pins, is attached and measures around eighteen or twenty inches long. This setup allows him to move around freely. Each side of the figure's head has a small angled cut, about half an inch long, that extends in a vertical direction. The separated parts of the cardboard are bent back slightly, creating two little "hooks" at the sides of the324 head. When the performer sits down as mentioned earlier, the separation of his legs pulls the silk thread taut, and against a somewhat dark background, it remains completely invisible. When he first places the figure on the ground, he does it casually, and the figure falls naturally. He makes a few fake mesmeric motions over it, but it still falls. However, on the third or fourth try, he positions it so that the hooks catch the thread (see Fig. 158, showing the arrangement of the head), keeping the figure upright. When the music starts, even the smallest movement, or the pretense of keeping time with his feet, is enough to make the sailor dance a lively hornpipe.

The Bottle Imps.—These are miniature black bottles, about two inches in height, with rounded bottoms, and so weighted that, like “tumbler” dolls, they rise of their own accord to the perpendicular, and will not rest in any other position. The proprietor, however, has a charm by which he is able to conquer their obstinate uprightness. For him, and for him only, they will consent to be laid down, and even to stand at an angle of 45°, though they again rebel if any other person attempts to make them do the same.

The Bottle Imps.—These are small black bottles, about two inches tall, with rounded bottoms, and are designed so that, like “tumbler” dolls, they automatically right themselves and can’t stay in any other position. However, the owner has a special charm that allows him to overcome their stubborn uprightness. For him, and him only, they’ll agree to lie down or even lean at a 45° angle, but they resist again if anyone else tries to make them do the same.

The little bottles are made of papier maché, or some other very light material, varnished black, the bottom of each being a half bullet, spherical side downwards. The centre of gravity is therefore at the bottom of the bottle, which is thus compelled always to stand upright. The performer, however, is provided with one or two little pieces of iron wire, of such a size and length as just to slip easily into the bottle. One of these being held concealed between the finger and thumb, it is a very easy matter, in picking up the bottle, to slip it in, and this slight additional weight neutralizing the effect of the half bullet at the foot, causes the bottle to lie still in any position. Having shown that the bottle is obedient to the word of command, the performer again picks it up with the neck between the first and second fingers and thumb, carelessly turning it bottom upwards, and325 thus allowing the bit of wire to slip out again into the palm of his hand, when he is able to again tender the bottle for experiment. Partaking of the nature of a puzzle as well as a conjuring trick, this little toy has amused thousands, and if neatly manipulated, may be repeatedly exhibited, even before the same spectators, with little fear of detection.

The small bottles are made of papier maché or another very light material, coated in black varnish, with the bottom of each shaped like a half bullet, spherical side down. This design means that the center of gravity is at the bottom of the bottle, forcing it to always stand upright. The performer, however, has one or two small pieces of iron wire that fit easily into the bottle. By discreetly holding one of these between their fingers, it's easy to slip it in while picking up the bottle. This slight extra weight cancels out the effect of the half bullet at the bottom, allowing the bottle to lie still in any position. After demonstrating that the bottle responds to commands, the performer picks it up again, holding it between their fingers and thumb, casually flipping it upside down, letting the piece of wire fall back into their palm, making the bottle ready for the next trick. Serving as both a puzzle and a magic trick, this little toy has entertained thousands, and when handled skillfully, can be displayed multiple times even to the same audience with minimal risk of being uncovered.

The Vanishing Gloves.—This is a capital trick with which to commence an entertainment; when coming, as it should do, unannounced, and before the performance proper has commenced, it has an air of improvisation which greatly enhances its effect, and at once awakens the attention of the audience.

The Disappearing Gloves.—This is a fantastic trick to kick off a show; when it happens unexpectedly, and before the main performance starts, it feels spontaneous, which really boosts its impact and immediately grabs the audience's attention.

The performer comes forward in full evening dress. While saying a few words by way of introduction to his entertainment, he begins to take off his gloves, commencing with that on his right hand. As soon as it is fairly off, he takes it in the right hand, waves the hand with a careless gesture, and the glove is gone. He begins to take off the other, walking as he does so behind his table, whereon his wand is laid. The left hand glove being removed, is rolled up into a ball, and transferred from the right hand to the left, which is immediately closed. The right hand picks up the wand, and with it touches the left, which being slowly opened, the second glove is found to have also disappeared.

The performer steps forward in full evening wear. As he introduces his show, he starts to remove his gloves, beginning with the one on his right hand. Once it’s off, he holds it in his right hand, casually waves it, and the glove disappears. He proceeds to take off the other glove as he walks behind his table, where his wand is placed. After removing the left glove, he rolls it into a ball and moves it from his right hand to his left, which he then closes. He picks up the wand with his right hand and uses it to touch his left hand. When he slowly opens the left hand, the second glove is also found to have vanished.

The disappearance of the first glove is effected by means of a piece of cord elastic, attached to the back of the waistcoat, and thence passing down the sleeve. This should be of such a length as to allow the glove to be drawn down and put on the hand, and yet to pull it smartly up the sleeve and out of sight when released. It is desirable to have a hem round the wrist of the glove, and to pass the elastic through this like the cord of a bag, as it thereby draws the wrist portion of the glove together, and causes it to offer less hindrance to its passage up the sleeve. Upon taking off the glove, the performer retains it in his hand, and lets it go when he pleases. He must, however, take care to straighten his arm before letting it slip, as otherwise the elastic will remain comparatively slack, and the glove will, instead of disappearing with a flash, dangle ignominiously from the coat-cuff.

The first glove disappears using a piece of elastic cord attached to the back of the vest and running down the sleeve. This should be long enough to draw the glove down and put it on the hand, but also to pull it sharply up the sleeve and out of sight when released. It's a good idea to have a hem around the wrist of the glove and to thread the elastic through it like a bag’s drawstring, as this tightens the wrist part of the glove and makes it easier for it to slide up the sleeve. When the performer takes off the glove, he holds it in his hand and can let it go whenever he wants. However, he needs to be careful to straighten his arm before releasing it, otherwise the elastic will stay relatively loose, and the glove will, instead of disappearing with a flourish, hang awkwardly from the coat cuff.

326 The left hand glove is got rid of by palming. The performer, standing behind his table as already mentioned, rolling the glove between his hands, and quickly twisting the fingers inside, so as to bring it into more manageable form, pretends to place it in his left hand, but really palms it in his right. He now lowers the right hand to pick up his wand, and as the hand reaches the table, drops the glove on the servante. He now touches the left hand with the wand, in due course opening the hand and showing that the glove has departed.

326 The performer gets rid of the left-hand glove by palming it. Standing behind his table, as mentioned earlier, he rolls the glove between his hands and quickly twists the fingers inside to make it easier to handle. He pretends to place it in his left hand but actually palms it in his right. He then lowers his right hand to pick up his wand, and as his hand reaches the table, he drops the glove onto the servante. Finally, he touches his left hand with the wand, opens it, and reveals that the glove is gone.

Some performers vanish both gloves by means of elastic, one up the right sleeve, the other up the left, but in doing so they offend against one of the cardinal precepts of the art, viz., never to perform the same trick twice in succession by the same means. The audience having seen the manner of the first disappearance, are all on the alert, and are not unlikely on the second occasion to guess the means employed. If, on the other hand, the performer adopts the plan indicated above, the two modes of producing the effect being different, each renders it more difficult to discover the secret of the other.

Some performers make both gloves disappear using elastic, one up the right sleeve and the other up the left. However, by doing this, they break one of the main rules of the craft, which is to never perform the same trick twice in a row using the same method. Once the audience has seen how the first disappearance is done, they are on high alert and are likely to figure out how the second one is done. On the other hand, if the performer uses the method mentioned above, since the two ways of creating the effect are different, each makes it harder to uncover the secret of the other.

The Egg-Bag.—This is a very old-fashioned trick, but, if performed with address, is by no means ineffective. It was exhibited in a modified form by the Japanese jugglers who visited London a few years ago. We shall first describe it in the simple form adopted by them, and shall then proceed to explain the older and more elaborate version.

The Egg Pouch.—This is a very old trick, but if done skillfully, it can still be quite impressive. It was shown in a different way by the Japanese jugglers who came to London a few years ago. We'll first describe the straightforward version they used and then explain the older, more complex version.

The Japanese egg-bag is about eight inches in depth and six in breadth, and made of alpaca, tammy, or some similar opaque material. Its only peculiarity is that one of its sides is double, the stuff being folded down inwards from the mouth of the bag to about two-thirds of its depth, and stitched at the sides, but left open at its lower edge. The effect of this arrangement is to make a sort of pocket, mouth downwards, inside the bag. If any small article, such as an egg, be placed within the bag, and the bag be turned upside down, the article will not fall out, but will fall into the pocket, which, in the reversed position of the bag, will be mouth upwards. This will enable you to conceal the presence of any article in the bag, as you may turn it upside down, and even inside out,327 without any fear of the article falling; and so long as you take care to keep the “pocket” side of the bag towards yourself, the spectators have not the least reason for suspecting that the bag is otherwise than empty. The uses to which this little bag may be put are various. Amongst others, it is available either to produce or cause the disappearance of an egg, and may thus, in combination with other apparatus, be made useful for many tricks. We shall content ourselves with describing one only of the modes of using it.

The Japanese egg bag is about eight inches deep and six inches wide, and it's made from alpaca, tammy, or a similar opaque material. Its main feature is that one side is double—it's folded inward from the top of the bag to about two-thirds of its depth, stitched at the sides, but left open at the bottom. This creates a pocket inside the bag that faces downwards. If you place a small item, like an egg, inside the bag and then turn it upside down, the item won't fall out but instead will drop into the pocket, which will now be facing up. This design allows you to keep the item hidden in the bag, whether you turn it upside down or even inside out, without worrying about it falling out; as long as you keep the "pocket" side of the bag facing you, viewers have no reason to suspect that the bag isn't empty. This little bag can be used in various ways, including making an egg appear or disappear, and it can be combined with other tools for many tricks. We'll stick to explaining just one way to use it.

The performer comes forward, having in his hand the bag, in which is beforehand placed a small egg. He turns the bag upside down and inside out, thus proving, to all appearance, that it is perfectly empty. Holding the bag for a moment with his teeth, he pulls back his coat cuffs, to prove that he has nothing concealed in that quarter, taking care as he does so to show clearly that his hands are empty. Taking the bag in his left hand, and imitating (if he can) the clucking of a hen, he dips his right hand into it, and produces an egg (or rather the egg). This he places in his mouth, letting all see that he does so, then making a gesture of swallowing, he again dips his hand in the bag, and produces a second egg, of which he disposes in the same way, repeating the operation until a dozen or more have been apparently produced and swallowed. With the reader’s present knowledge, it is hardly necessary to suggest to him that the egg, though fairly placed in the mouth, is, under cover of the hand, instantly pushed out again with the tongue, and palmed, rendering it a very simple matter to produce (apparently) another egg from the bag. Although so absurdly simple, the trick is effective, and if neatly performed, produces a complete illusion.

The performer steps forward, holding a bag that contains a small egg. He flips the bag upside down and inside out, clearly showing that it’s empty. He briefly holds the bag with his teeth and rolls up his coat cuffs to demonstrate that he has nothing hidden there, making sure it's clear that his hands are empty. He takes the bag with his left hand and, trying to imitate the clucking of a hen, reaches into it with his right hand and pulls out an egg (or rather, the egg). He places it in his mouth where everyone can see, then pretends to swallow it before dipping his hand into the bag again to reveal a second egg, which he also “swallows.” This process continues until it looks like he has produced and swallowed a dozen or more eggs. With what the reader knows, it’s easy to see that the egg, even though it appears to be in his mouth, is quickly pushed out with his tongue and hidden in his palm, allowing him to easily pull out what seems like another egg from the bag. Although it’s ridiculously simple, the trick is very effective and, if done well, it creates a complete illusion.

The bag which is more generally known as the “egg-bag” is a much larger affair, measuring eighteen to twenty inches in width, by fourteen or fifteen in depth. In its most approved form, one side of the bag is made double, the double side being stitched all round, save for about four inches at one corner of the bottom of the bag. The little opening thus left affords therefore the sole access to the space between the double sides. Between these double sides, and immediately below their upper edge, is stitched a broad band, with a row of a dozen or more little pockets, each capable of holding an egg, end upwards. Each pocket covers about two-thirds of the egg, which is328 prevented from falling out spontaneously by a little piece of elastic round the edge of the pocket, though it will slip out and fall into the space between the double sides on the slightest pressure being applied to it.

The bag commonly known as the “egg-bag” is quite a bit larger, measuring eighteen to twenty inches wide and fourteen or fifteen inches deep. In its most preferred design, one side of the bag is made double, with the double side stitched all the way around except for about four inches at one corner of the bottom. This small opening provides the only access to the space between the double sides. Between these double sides, right below the upper edge, there’s a wide band stitched in place, featuring a row of a dozen or more little pockets, each designed to hold an egg upright. Each pocket covers about two-thirds of the egg, which is328 kept from falling out on its own by a small piece of elastic along the edge of the pocket, although it can slip out and drop into the space between the double sides with the slightest pressure.

The bag is prepared for use by placing an egg in each of the little pockets we have mentioned. The eggs used are either blown shells or imitation eggs of wood or tin, with one real one for the performer to break as a specimen, and so lead the audience to the belief that all are equally genuine. The bag being brought forward is turned upside down—of course nothing falling from it. The performer then, thrusting his arms down to the bottom, and seizing the bag by the corners inside, turns it inside out, taking care, however, to keep the double side towards himself. Having thus conclusively proved its emptiness, he again brings back the bag to its normal condition, and in the act of doing so, squeezes with his finger and thumb (through the stuff) the genuine egg out of its pocket. It falls into the space between the double sides, and by gently sloping the bag downwards in the direction of the opening at the corner, he brings the egg into the outer bag, whence he produces it, and breaks it to show its genuineness, as already mentioned. Again he turns the bag inside out, shaking and twisting it, and again produces an egg from it as before, repeating the operation until the supply of eggs is exhausted. Sometimes he varies his proceedings by trampling or jumping on the bag, which he lays for that purpose on the floor, with its lower edge towards the audience. The eggs are thus on the side remote from the spectators, and in trampling on the bag it is very easy for the performer to avoid the particular line in which he knows them to be.

The bag is ready to use by placing an egg in each of the small pockets we've talked about. The eggs can be either blown shells or fake eggs made of wood or tin, plus one real egg for the performer to break as a demonstration, leading the audience to believe that all the eggs are real. When the bag is shown, it's turned upside down—naturally, nothing falls out. The performer then reaches into the bag, grabs the corners from inside, and turns it inside out, ensuring that the double side stays facing him. After proving it’s empty, he returns the bag to its normal position, and while doing this, he pinches the real egg out of its pocket with his fingers. It falls into the space between the double sides, and by gently tilting the bag down towards the opening at the corner, he brings the egg into the outer bag, from which he pulls it out and breaks it to show it’s real, as mentioned earlier. He turns the bag inside out again, shaking and twisting it, then produces another egg, repeating the process until he runs out of eggs. Sometimes, he changes things up by stepping or jumping on the bag, which he lays on the floor with its lower edge facing the audience. The eggs are then on the side away from the spectators, and while trampling the bag, it’s easy for the performer to avoid the line where he knows the eggs are.

It was formerly the fashion, after bringing out a number of eggs as above described, to finish by producing the hen which is supposed to have laid them. This was done by an adroit exchange of the bag just used for another containing a hen, hung in readiness behind a chair, or some other convenient cover. This latter bag having no double side, or other preparation, might safely be abandoned to the inspection of the most curious spectator. Where it is not intended to produce the bird, it will still be well to have the second bag, so as to be able to make an exchange, and to hand the bag for inspection.

It used to be common to end a performance involving a number of eggs by revealing the hen that supposedly laid them. This was achieved by skillfully swapping the bag just used with another one that contained a hen, which was kept ready behind a chair or some other convenient spot. This second bag, having no hidden compartments or tricks, could be safely shown to the most inquisitive audience member. Even if the bird isn’t going to be shown, it’s still a good idea to have the second bag on hand for a quick swap and to let the audience inspect it.

329 It is a great improvement to the egg-bag to have the lower portion, say the last three inches of its depth, made of network, so that the spectators can at once see each egg as it falls to the bottom of the bag. It is hardly necessary to observe that in this case the inner lining of the double side must terminate where the network commences.

329 It's a significant upgrade to the egg-bag to have the bottom part, about the last three inches of its depth, made of mesh, allowing spectators to clearly see each egg as it drops to the bottom of the bag. It's important to note that in this case, the inner lining of the double side must end where the mesh starts.

To Produce Eggs from a Person’s Mouth.—While upon the subject of eggs, we may notice this, though it has always appeared to us a rather disagreeable trick. It is rarely exhibited as a separate feat, but generally as a prelude to some other illusion, for the performance of which three or four eggs are necessary.

To Produce Eggs from a Person's Mouth.—While we’re on the topic of eggs, let's mention this, even though it’s always seemed like a pretty unpleasant trick to us. It’s not often shown as a standalone act, but usually serves as an introduction to some other illusion that requires three or four eggs to pull off.

The performer, requiring eggs, sends his assistant to fetch a plate. On his return, he places him, holding the plate with both hands in front of him, facing the company. The performer standing beside him, and gently patting him on the head, an egg is seen to appear between his lips. This is taken from him, and placed on the plate. The performer, passing behind him, now stands on his other side, and again patting his head, another egg is produced in like manner. This is repeated until the requisite number of eggs is procured, the assistant, as each fresh one is produced, simulating increasing difficulty, as though the eggs were forced up from the stomach by a powerful muscular effort.

The performer, needing eggs, sends his assistant to grab a plate. When he returns, he stands with the plate held in both hands in front of him, facing the audience. The performer, standing next to him and gently patting him on the head, makes an egg appear between his lips. This egg is taken from him and placed on the plate. The performer then moves behind him, stands on the other side, and after patting his head again, produces another egg in the same way. This continues until the required number of eggs is collected, with the assistant, as each new one is produced, pretending it’s increasingly difficult, as if the eggs were being pushed up from his stomach with tremendous effort.

This effect is produced as follows: We will suppose that five eggs are to be produced. One is placed beforehand in the mouth of the assistant, and four more are placed in the pochettes, or tucked under the waistband of the performer, two on each side. Having placed his assistant in position, the performer secretly takes one of these latter into his right hand, and palms it. Patting the assistant on the head with his left hand, he waits until the egg appears between the teeth, and immediately on its appearance, raises his right hand as if to receive it, thus bringing up the palmed egg opposite the mouth, while the egg that is already in the mouth slips back, under cover of the hand, out of sight. The palmed egg is laid on the plate, and the performer, in the act of passing behind his assistant, palms a second egg in his left hand. The same pantomime is again gone through, save that in this case the right hand pats the head, and the left hand is held to330 the mouth to receive the egg. After four eggs have been produced in this manner, the fifth, which has been all along in the mouth, is produced apparently in like manner, but the performer takes care that in this instance it shall be seen beyond a doubt that the egg really does come from the mouth; which being manifestly the case in this instance, the audience are pretty sure to jump to the conclusion that all were produced in an equally bonâ fide manner.

This effect is created as follows: Let's assume five eggs are to be produced. One is placed in the mouth of the assistant beforehand, and four more are tucked into the pochettes or under the performer's waistband, two on each side. Once the assistant is in position, the performer secretly takes one of the eggs from the waistband into his right hand and palms it. He pats the assistant on the head with his left hand and waits for the egg to show between the assistant's teeth. As soon as the egg appears, he raises his right hand as if to catch it, bringing the palmed egg into view in front of the mouth while the egg already in the mouth slips back out of sight, concealed by his hand. The palmed egg is placed on the plate, and as the performer moves behind the assistant, he palms a second egg in his left hand. The same gesture is repeated, except this time the right hand pats the head, and the left hand is positioned to the mouth to receive the egg. After four eggs are produced this way, the fifth egg, which has been in the mouth all along, is presented in a similar manner. The performer ensures that it is unmistakably seen coming from the mouth, making it clear that this egg is genuinely produced from there, leading the audience to believe that all eggs were produced in the same bonâ fide manner.

Fig. 159. Fig. 160.

The Pillars of Solomon, and the Magic Bradawl.—There is a very old-fashioned apparatus, sometimes called the Pillars of Solomon, for apparently uniting a piece of cut string. It consists of two slips of wood, each about four inches in length by five-eighths of an inch square, laid side by side. At about an inch from one end of each, a transverse hole is bored, and through this, passing through both slips, a string is passed, and may be drawn backwards and forwards from side to side. (See Fig. 159.) The apparatus having been shown in this condition, the performer passes a knife between the two slips, thus apparently dividing the string; but the string is notwithstanding still drawn backward and forwards through the holes, as sound as ever.

The Pillars of Solomon and the Magic Bradawl.—There is an old-school device, often referred to as the Pillars of Solomon, that seems to join a piece of cut string. It consists of two pieces of wood, each about four inches long and five-eighths of an inch square, placed side by side. About an inch from one end of each piece, a hole is drilled through, and a string is threaded through this hole, allowing it to slide back and forth from side to side. (See Fig. 159.) After demonstrating this setup, the performer puts a knife between the two pieces, making it look like the string is divided; however, the string can still be pulled back and forth through the holes, completely intact.

The secret lies in the fact that the string does not, in reality, go straight through the two slips of wood from side to side. A glance at Fig. 160 will enlighten the reader as to its real course. Instead of passing straight through from a to d, as it appears to do when the two pillars are laid side by side (which is the condition in which they are first exhibited to the spectators), it passes down the length of the first pillar from a to b, out at b, and into the second pillar at c, whence it passes upwards, and emerges at d. The passing of the knife between the two points a and d does not therefore affect the string in the least.

The secret is that the string doesn't actually go straight through the two pieces of wood from one side to the other. A look at Fig. 160 will clarify its true path. Instead of going straight from a to d, as it seems when the two pillars are placed side by side (which is how they are first shown to the audience), it runs down the length of the first pillar from a to b, exits at b, then enters the second pillar at c, where it goes up and comes out at d. Therefore, the knife passing between the two points a and d doesn’t affect the string at all.

331

331

Fig. 161. Fig. 162.

It is obvious that in this form of the apparatus the two pillars, being joined by the cords at the points b c, cannot be completely separated, and the fact of their always being kept close together at the lower end is quite sufficient to betray to an acute observer the principle of the trick. There is, however, an improved form of the same apparatus, in which, after the apparent cutting of the cord, the two pillars are held wide apart, one in each hand of the performer, and yet, when they are again placed side by side, the string runs backwards and forwards merrily as ever. The pillars are, in this instance, of the form shown in Fig. 161. They are about six inches in length, of light and elegant shape, having at each end a ball or knob of about an inch and a quarter in diameter, flattened on one face to allow of the pillars being laid closely side by side. The cord, as in the former case, passes down the first pillar from a to b, but instead of passing out at b, it is rolled round a little pulley working in the lower knob of that pillar. (See Fig. 162, which gives a sectional view of the lower portion of each pillar.) A similar cord is passed down from d in the second pillar to c, and is there rolled round a second pulley, but in the opposite direction to that of the first cord; so that, if both pulleys move in the same direction, the cord on the one will be wound, and the cord on the other unwound. Each pulley is of one piece with its axis, the axis of the one terminating in a little square tenon or nut, and that of the other in a corresponding mortice or hollow, so that when the two pillars are placed side by side, their axes fit the one into the other, and whichever of the two pulleys is set in motion, the like movement is communicated to the other. The effect of this is as follows: If the cord at a be pulled, it unwinds that portion of the cord which is wound on the pulley at b, and by the same movement winds up332 the cord on the other pulley; and vice versâ. We have omitted to mention that there is glued into a little hole on the flat side of each of the upper knobs, exactly opposite the points a and b, a very minute piece, say an eighth of an inch in length, of similar cord; these greatly heightening the appearance of reality upon the apparent cutting of the cord.

It’s clear that in this version of the device, the two pillars are connected by cords at points b c, so they can’t be fully separated. The fact that they are always kept close together at the bottom is enough to reveal the trick to a keen observer. However, there is a better version of the same device where, after the cord seems to be cut, the two pillars are held far apart, one in each hand of the performer, and yet, when placed side by side again, the string moves back and forth just like before. In this case, the pillars look like those shown in Fig. 161. They are about six inches long, lightweight, and elegantly shaped, with a ball or knob about an inch and a quarter in diameter at each end, flattened on one side to allow the pillars to be placed closely next to each other. The cord, like before, runs down the first pillar from a to b, but instead of coming out at b, it wraps around a small pulley in the lower knob of that pillar. (See Fig. 162, which shows a sectional view of the lower part of each pillar.) A similar cord runs down from d in the second pillar to c, where it wraps around a second pulley, rotating in the opposite direction of the first cord. This way, if both pulleys turn in the same direction, the cord on one will wind while the other unwinds. Each pulley is made as one piece with its axis; one axis ends in a small square tenon or nut, and the other ends in a matching mortise or hollow, so when the two pillars are placed side by side, their axes fit into each other, transferring motion from one to the other. The result is as follows: If you pull the cord at a, it unwinds that portion of the cord wound on the pulley at b, while simultaneously winding up the cord on the other pulley; and vice versâ. We forgot to mention that a small piece of the same cord, about an eighth of an inch long, is glued into a tiny hole on the flat side of each of the upper knobs, directly opposite points a and b; this greatly enhances the illusion of reality when the cord seems to be cut.

The pillars are brought forward side by side, the nut of the one pulley fitting strictly into the hollow of the other. The performer shows, by drawing the cord backwards and forwards, that it fairly traverses the two pillars from side to side. Taking a knife, he passes it between the two pillars, and to all appearance cuts the cord, immediately taking the pillars one in each hand, and showing the cut ends (really the short bits on the inside) to prove that it is fairly cut through. Again bringing the pillars together, taking care that the mortice and the nut correspond as before, he commands the cord to be restored, and again pulls it backwards and forwards as at first.

The pillars are positioned side by side, with the nut of one pulley fitting snugly into the hollow of the other. The performer demonstrates, by pulling the cord back and forth, that it moves smoothly between the two pillars. Taking a knife, he slips it between the two pillars and, to all appearances, cuts the cord, immediately grabbing the pillars—one in each hand—and showing the cut ends (which are actually the short bits on the inside) to prove that it has been cut completely through. He then brings the pillars back together, making sure that the mortise and the nut align as they did before, and commands the cord to be restored, again pulling it back and forth as he did initially.

Some little fun may be created by placing the upper knobs of the pillars pincer-fashion, one on each side of a person’s nose, the cord being thus apparently made to run right through the nose. An air of greater probability may be given to this curious effect by first piercing the nose with the magic bradawl. This is in appearance an ordinary bradawl, but the blade is so arranged as to recede into the handle on the slightest pressure, again reappearing (being, in fact, forced forward by a spiral spring in the handle) as soon as the pressure is removed. A duplicate bradawl of ordinary make is first handed round for examination, and the trick bradawl being adroitly substituted, the performer proceeds therewith to bore a hole through the nose of any juvenile volunteer who will submit to the operation. Holding a piece of cork on one side of the nose, he apparently thrusts the awl through the nose, the sinking of the blade into the handle exactly simulating the effect of a genuine perforation. (Some performers make use of a sponge moistened with some liquid resembling blood, which by a little pressure is made to trickle down from the imaginary wound; but this is a piece of realism which we think is better omitted.) The nose being thus apparently pierced, the imagination of the spectators is in a measure prepared to accept the333 phenomenon of the restored cord running through it as already described.

Some fun can be created by placing the upper knobs of the pillars pincher-style, one on each side of a person’s nose, making it look like the cord runs right through the nose. To make this peculiar effect seem more believable, you might want to pierce the nose with the magic bradawl first. It looks like an ordinary bradawl, but the blade is designed to retract into the handle with the slightest pressure and then reappear (actually pushed forward by a spiral spring in the handle) as soon as the pressure is released. A regular bradawl is handed around for inspection, and once it's been examined, the trick bradawl is skillfully swapped in. The performer then proceeds to "bore" a hole through the nose of any willing young volunteer. By holding a piece of cork on one side of the nose, it seems like the awl is being thrust through the nose, as the blade sinking into the handle convincingly mimics the effect of an actual hole. (Some performers use a sponge soaked with a liquid resembling blood, which can be made to trickle down from the imaginary wound with a little pressure, but we think this level of realism is best left out.) With the nose apparently pierced, the audience's imagination is somewhat prepared to accept the phenomenon of the cord running through it, as previously described.

Fig. 163.

The Magic Coffers.—These are round tin boxes, japanned to taste, and made generally about five inches in depth by three in diameter, though they are sometimes larger. (See Fig. 163.) The only speciality about them is a moveable portion a, which may either be removed with the lid or left upon the box, according as the lid is lifted with or without lateral pressure. This moveable portion is bottomed with a grating of parallel wires, an eighth of an inch apart. The coffers are generally worked in pairs, the effect produced by them being the apparent transmission of the contents of the one to the other, and vice versâ. They may be worked with various articles. For our present purpose we will suppose that the performer desires to change white haricot beans to coffee-berries, both of which suit the apparatus very well. He beforehand fills the one coffer with beans, and the moveable compartment belonging to it with coffee-berries, doing exactly the reverse as to the second coffer. The coffers are now brought forward, and the performer, removing the lids (with the moveable compartments), allows the spectators to satisfy themselves that each coffer is full to the bottom, and that the contents are nothing more or less than what they appear to be. This being established, he returns to his table, and again puts the lids on the coffers, taking care that that which contains the beans shall be placed on the coffer containing the coffee-berries, and vice versâ. He now requests two of the younger spectators to step forward, and assist him with the trick. A couple of volunteers having been procured, they are made to salute the audience, and are then seated upon chairs at each side of the stage, each being entrusted with one of the coffers, which, that all may see, they are requested to hold with both hands above their heads. The performer, standing between them, says, “Now, young gentlemen, I must caution you to334 hold tight, or the electrical forces which are rapidly generating in these magic coffers will carry them clean away, and possibly you along with them. Now, first please tell me, just to start fair, which coffer is it that you have got, sir, the one with the beans, or the one with the coffee-berries?” The chances are ten to one against the extempore assistants remembering which was which, and the majority of the audience will be equally uncertain. The professor pretends surprise and disappointment. “Ladies and gentlemen, you cannot possibly appreciate the beauty of these philosophical experiments unless you follow them carefully from the commencement. I will open the coffers once more.” So saying, he opens first the one coffer and then the other, taking care, however, to lift the lids only, so that the one which really contains the coffee-berries shows the layer of beans, and that which contains the beans the layer of coffee-berries. In each case he takes up a handful, and lets them flow back from his hand into the coffer, the better to impress upon the audience the contents of each, finally placing a bean in the hands of the youth who holds the supposed coffer of beans, and a berry in the hands of the holder of the supposed coffee-berries. Again closing the lids, he requests the person holding the bean to throw it into the closed coffer held by the other. The juvenile, looking foolish, replies that it can’t be done; and a similar reply is received from the youth holding the other coffer. The performer, addressing the company, asks some one else to make the attempt, but equally without success. He continues, “Gentlemen, among this large and brilliant audience not one person can be found who will undertake to throw this little bean into one of those coffers. Imagine, then, the difficulty of passing the whole of the beans which this coffer contains into the other, not dropping even one on the way, and at the same moment transferring the whole of the berries in this coffer into that which, a moment before, was full to the brim with the beans. But it must be done. Young gentlemen, will you be kind enough to repeat with me, One, two, three! At the word ‘three,’ by the way, you had better close your eyes, or they might possibly be injured by the shower of beans and berries. Are you ready, Mr. Beans? Are you ready, Mr. Berries? Now, then, One! two! three!!! Did you feel them pass? I hope they did not hurt you. Now let us once more open the coffers. I have kept my335 word, you see—Mr. Beans has the coffee-berries, and Mr. Berries has the beans. Will you please step forward, and show the company that the coffers are, as at first, full to the very bottom.” The lids, containing the moveable compartments, he meanwhile places carelessly upon his table.

The Magic Cash Boxes.—These are round tin boxes, stylishly painted, usually about five inches deep and three inches in diameter, though sometimes they can be larger. (See Fig. 163.) The only unique feature is a removable part a, which can either come off with the lid or stay on the box, depending on whether the lid is lifted with or without lateral pressure. This removable part has a bottom made of parallel wires, spaced an eighth of an inch apart. The coffers are typically used in pairs, creating the illusion of transferring the contents from one to the other, and vice versâ. For our demonstration, let’s say the performer wants to switch white haricot beans for coffee beans, as both fit the setup well. He fills one coffer with beans and its removable part with coffee beans, doing the opposite for the second coffer. The coffers are now presented, and the performer, removing the lids (with the removable parts), allows the audience to see that each coffer is completely full, and the contents are exactly what they seem. Once that’s confirmed, he goes back to his table and puts the lids back on the coffers, making sure the one with the beans is on top of the one with the coffee beans, and vice versâ. He then invites two younger audience members to come up and help with the trick. After a couple of volunteers are found, they’re asked to greet the audience and sit on chairs on either side of the stage, each holding one of the coffers above their heads with both hands for everyone to see. The performer, standing between them, says, “Now, young gentlemen, I must warn you to hold on tight, or the magical forces building up in these coffers might sweep them away, possibly taking you with them. Now, just to start off right, can you tell me which coffer you have, sir—the one with the beans or the one with the coffee beans?” The odds are against the extempore assistants remembering which is which, and the majority of the audience will likely be unsure as well. The professor pretends to be surprised and disappointed. “Ladies and gentlemen, you can’t truly appreciate the beauty of these experiments unless you follow them closely from the beginning. I’ll open the coffers again.” With that, he opens one coffer and then the other, but carefully lifts only the lids, so that the one which actually contains the coffee beans shows a layer of beans, and the one with the beans shows a layer of coffee beans. For both, he takes a handful and lets them pour back into the coffer, emphasizing each one’s contents, finally placing a bean in the hands of the youth holding the supposed coffer of beans and a coffee berry in the hands of the person with the supposed coffee beans. After closing the lids again, he asks the person with the bean to toss it into the closed coffer held by the other. The young participant, looking confused, responds that it can’t be done; a similar answer comes from the other youth. The performer now asks someone else in the audience to try, but they fail as well. He states, “Gentlemen, among this large and impressive crowd, not one person can be found willing to toss this little bean into one of those coffers. Just imagine the difficulty of transferring all the beans from this coffer to the other without dropping a single one along the way, while simultaneously transferring all the berries in this coffer into the one that, a moment ago, was filled to the top with beans. But it has to be done. Young gentlemen, will you kindly repeat with me, One, two, three! At the word ‘three,’ you might want to close your eyes, just in case the rain of beans and berries hurts you. Are you ready, Mr. Beans? Are you ready, Mr. Berries? Now, One! two! three!!! Did you feel them go by? I hope they didn’t hurt you. Now let’s open the coffers once again. I kept my promise, you see—Mr. Beans has the coffee beans, and Mr. Berries has the beans. Will you please step forward and show the audience that the coffers are, once again, completely full?” He casually places the lids, with the removable compartments, on his table.

Some performers make the change more than once, and it is obvious that the contents of the coffers may be made to apparently change places any number of times. If this is done, however, the secret of the false tops is apt to be suspected; whereas, in the method above described, the audience have, as they believe, proved the coffers full to the bottom, both before and after the trick; and this greatly increases the difficulty of accounting for the transposition.

Some performers switch things up more than once, and it's clear that the contents of the boxes can seem to change places multiple times. However, if this happens, people might start to suspect the trickery with the false tops; whereas, in the method described above, the audience thinks they’ve seen the boxes full to the brim, both before and after the trick, which makes it much harder to explain how the switch occurred.

The object of having the false tops bottomed with open wirework, instead of with tin, is to be prepared for the expression of a suspicion on the part of the audience as to the existence of a false top. In such case the performer, borrowing a penknife, passes it well down through the upper layer of beans, etc., and through the wirework, thus proving (apparently) that the coffer is open to the bottom. In the trick as above described, however, the expression of such a suspicion is a very remote contingency.

The purpose of having the false tops made with open wire instead of tin is to be ready for any doubts from the audience about the existence of a false top. If that happens, the performer can borrow a penknife and confidently push it down through the upper layer of beans and through the wire, seemingly demonstrating that the coffer is open at the bottom. However, in the trick as described above, the chance of such a suspicion arising is quite unlikely.

The trick is sometimes performed with sweetmeats in one or both of the coffers, and in this form has an added charm for a juvenile audience, who complete the trick by swallowing that portion of the apparatus.

The trick is sometimes done with treats in one or both of the boxes, and in this form, it has an extra appeal for a young audience, who finish the trick by swallowing that part of the equipment.

The Bran and Orange Trick.—This trick is performed with a single coffer, in appearance very similar to those used in the last trick, but slightly different in construction. The false top is, in this case, bottomed with plain tin. The bottom of the coffer is moveable, being soldered to a circular rim or shoulder of tin about a quarter of an inch in depth, over which the coffer fits pretty tightly, though the projecting edge of the bottom enables the performer to remove it without difficulty. The performer must also be provided with an ordinary oblong wooden box. Its precise dimensions are unimportant, save that it should be a good deal larger than the coffer, but about an inch or so less in height. This box is filled with bran, as also is the false top of the coffer. A couple of oranges, as much alike as possible, must also be provided. One only of these is produced336 to the audience, the other being beforehand placed on the servante of the table.

The Bran and Orange Hack.—This trick is done using a single box that looks a lot like the ones used in the previous trick, but it's built a bit differently. The false top is lined with plain tin. The bottom of the box is movable, attached to a circular rim or ledge of tin about a quarter of an inch deep, so the box fits snugly, but the edge of the bottom allows the performer to take it out easily. The performer also needs a regular rectangular wooden box. The exact size isn’t critical, except that it should be quite a bit bigger than the box, but about an inch shorter in height. This box is filled with bran, and the false top of the box is also filled with bran. Additionally, two oranges that look as similar as possible should be prepared. One of these oranges is shown to the audience while the other one is previously placed on the servante of the table.

The performer begins by placing upon the table the coffer and the box of bran. Removing the lid (with the false top), he brings forward the coffer, and shows that it is perfectly empty. In returning to his table, he loosens (though without removing) the moveable bottom, and replaces the coffer on the table. He next brings forward the box of bran, showing that there is no preparation about it, and in replacing it on the table, places it in front of the coffer, which, however, being the taller, remains visible behind it. He next introduces the orange, either palming it (from one of his pochettes), and magically producing it from some person’s nose or whiskers, or by the more prosaic method of having it brought in by his assistant. He now returns to his table, and, standing behind it, proceeds to fill the coffer with bran. This he does by placing the coffer upright in the box, holding it with one hand and ostentatiously pouring in bran with the other until it is full. In placing the coffer in the box, however, he takes it up quite without the bottom, so that he is, in reality, only filling an open tube. Meanwhile, he secretly picks up, with his disengaged hand, the second orange from the servante, and places it upon the bottom, which remains behind the box. Having filled the coffer, and remarking, “Pray observe that it is quite full,” he (before removing it from the box) covers it with the lid, and then lifting it out, again places it behind the box in such manner as to go neatly over the bottom and the orange upon it. (Of course, in the act of lifting the coffer, all the contents run back again into the box.) Having now got the second orange within the coffer, and having, by a gentle pressure, again settled the bottom in its place, the performer places the coffer on a second table or a chair close in front of the audience. He then says, “I am about to order the bran with which this coffer is filled” (here he raises the lid without the false top, and the coffer therefore appears full of bran) “to pass back again into the box from which it was taken, and this orange” (here he passes behind his table, and holding up the orange, replaces it six or eight inches from the hinder edge) “to pass into the coffer in place of it. Now, first for the bran. One, two, three! Pass! Did you see it fly from the coffer into the box? You didn’t? Well, at any rate, you shall see the orange pass. I337 take it up so” (here he places his two hands round it, and rolls it on to the servante in manner described at page 294, coming forward with the hands together, as though still containing it, and holding them over the coffer at a few inches’ distance), “and squeeze it smaller and smaller, in this manner, till it becomes small enough to pass right into the coffer, as you see.” Here he separates his hands, showing them empty, and immediately taking off the cover with the false top, rolls out the orange, and shows that the coffer is otherwise empty.

The performer starts by placing the chest and the box of bran on the table. He removes the lid (which has a false top), shows that the chest is completely empty, and then, without removing it, loosens the movable bottom before putting the chest back on the table. Next, he takes the box of bran and demonstrates that there’s nothing prepared about it, placing it back on the table in front of the chest, which is taller and remains visible behind it. He then introduces the orange, either by palming it from one of his pockets and magically producing it from someone’s nose or whiskers, or by the more straightforward method of having his assistant bring it in. He returns to the table, stands behind it, and fills the chest with bran. He does this by placing the chest upright in the box, holding it with one hand while visibly pouring in the bran with the other until it’s full. However, when placing the chest in the box, he lifts it without the bottom, so he’s actually just filling an open tube. Meanwhile, he secretly grabs the second orange from the side table with his free hand and places it on the bottom, which stays behind the box. After filling the chest and saying, “Please note that it’s completely full,” he covers it with the lid before lifting it out and placing it behind the box in such a way that it neatly covers the bottom and the orange on it. (Of course, when he lifts the chest, all the contents fall back into the box.) Now with the second orange inside the chest, and after gently pushing the bottom back into place, the performer puts the chest on a second table or chair in front of the audience. He then says, “I’m about to command the bran that fills this chest” (he lifts the lid without the false top, so it appears full of bran) “to move back into the box from which it came, and this orange” (he steps behind his table, lifts the orange, and places it six or eight inches away from the back edge) “to go into the chest instead. First, let’s go for the bran. One, two, three! Go! Did you see it fly from the chest into the box? You didn’t? Well, at least you’ll see the orange pass. I hold it like this” (he wraps his hands around it and rolls it onto the side table as described on page 294, coming forward with his hands together as if still holding it and hovering them over the chest a few inches away), “and squeeze it smaller and smaller, until it becomes tiny enough to fit right into the chest, as you see.” Then he opens his hands to show they’re empty and immediately takes off the cover with the false top, rolls out the orange, and reveals that the chest is otherwise empty.

The trick as above described is susceptible of a good many variations. If the performer uses a trap-table, the orange may be made to pass through a trap instead of being rolled off at the back of the table, though the latter method, if neatly executed, can hardly be surpassed in illusive effect. A more substantial improvement may be made by causing the bran, instead of simply disappearing as above mentioned, to reappear in some other quarter. There are many pieces of apparatus which may be used for this purpose, perhaps as good as any being the improved sweet-bag (see page 248). This should be previously filled with bran, and hooked to the back of the table. The performer in this case borrows a handkerchief, which he carelessly spreads on the table, and a gentleman’s hat, which he places mouth upwards beside it. Instead of announcing that the bran will return from the coffer to the box from whence it was taken, he states that it will, at command, pass into the handkerchief which he holds, and which as he speaks he picks up, with the bag beneath it, holding it, without apparent intention, just above the hat. At the word “Pass!” he slightly turns his wrist, thereby releasing the flap of the bag, and a shower of bran is instantly seen to pour down into the hat. This little addition greatly enhances the effect of the trick.

The trick I just described can be modified in many ways. If the performer uses a trap table, the orange can go through a trap instead of being rolled off the back of the table. However, the latter method, if done cleanly, is hard to beat in terms of illusion. A more substantial improvement could involve making the bran, instead of just disappearing as mentioned earlier, reappear somewhere else. There are many devices that can be used for this, and one effective option is the improved sweet bag (see page 248). This should be filled with bran beforehand and attached to the back of the table. In this case, the performer borrows a handkerchief, carelessly spreading it on the table, and a gentleman’s hat, which he places upside down next to it. Instead of saying that the bran will return from the coffer to the box it came from, he announces that it will, on command, go into the handkerchief he holds. As he speaks, he picks it up, holding the bag underneath without any clear intention, just above the hat. When he says “Pass!”, he subtly turns his wrist, releasing the flap of the bag, and a stream of bran instantly pours into the hat. This small addition significantly enhances the trick's effect.

The Rice and Orange Trick.—In this feat rice and an orange are made to change places, but by wholly different means from those last above described.

The Rice and Orange Hack.—In this trick, rice and an orange switch places, but using completely different methods than those mentioned earlier.

Fig. 164.
Fig. 165.

The apparatus in this case consists of three japanned tin cones, about ten inches in height by five at the base, and each having a brass knob at the top—and an ornamental vase of tin or zinc, standing about the same height as the cones, and having a simple metal cover,338 or top. Of the cones (all of which are open at the bottom), two are hollow throughout, but the third has a flap or moveable partition halfway down, inclosing the upper half of the internal space. This flap works on a hinge, and is kept shut by a little catch, which is withdrawn by pressure on a little button outside the cone, when the flap drops down, and lets fall whatever has been placed in the enclosed space. (See Fig. 164.) The cone is prepared for the trick by filling this space with rice, and closing the flap; and the three cones are then placed in a row on the performer’s table, the prepared one being in the middle. The vase (see Fig. 165) is constructed as follows:—Its depth inside is less by about an inch than its depth outside, leaving, therefore, between its true and false bottoms, an empty space, a. A circular hole is cut in the inner or false bottom, but this hole, in the normal condition of the vase, is kept closed by a circular disc of metal, b, exactly fitting it. This disc is soldered upon an upright wire rod, passing through the foot of the apparatus, and terminating in another disc, c, somewhat smaller in size. Round this rod is a spiral spring, whose action tends to press it down, and thereby to keep the disc or valve normally closed, though it rises, and thereby opens the valve (as shown by the dotted lines in the figure), whenever upward pressure is applied to c. The face of the upper disc, b, is slightly concave, corresponding with the rest of the interior of the vase. The vase is prepared for the trick by placing an orange in it, and in this condition it is brought forward and placed on the table by the performer or his assistant. A small paper bag full of rice is brought in at the same time, and completes the preparations.

The setup in this scenario includes three black-painted tin cones, each about ten inches tall and five inches wide at the base, with a brass knob on top. There's also a decorative tin or zinc vase that is roughly the same height as the cones and has a simple metal lid. The cones are all open at the bottom; two are completely hollow, while the third has a flap or movable partition positioned halfway down, enclosing the top half of the inner space. This flap is hinged and kept closed with a small catch that releases when you press a little button on the outside of the cone, causing the flap to drop and letting whatever is inside fall out. (See Fig. 164.) To set up for the trick, the enclosed space of the cone is filled with rice and the flap is closed. The three cones are then lined up on the performer's table, with the prepared one in the center. The vase (see Fig. 165) is designed in the following way: its internal depth is about an inch less than its external depth, creating an empty space between the true and false bottoms, a. A circular hole is cut in the inner or false bottom, but this hole is normally sealed by a metal disc, b, that fits perfectly. This disc is soldered onto a vertical wire rod that goes through the base of the apparatus and ends in a slightly smaller disc, c. A spiral spring wraps around this rod, pushing it down to keep the valve closed, but it lifts the valve (as illustrated by the dotted lines in the figure) whenever upward pressure is applied to c. The surface of the upper disc, b, has a slight concave shape, matching the inside of the vase. To prepare for the trick, an orange is placed inside the vase, and then it is brought forward and set on the table by the performer or their assistant. At the same time, a small paper bag filled with rice is brought in to complete the setup.

With this introduction, we proceed to describe the trick as worked by Herrmann.

With this introduction, we will describe the trick as performed by Herrmann.

339 The performer begins by borrowing two hats, and places them one on the other, the mouths together, on a chair or table. He then (by palming) produces an orange from the hair or whiskers of a spectator, and places this on another table. He next brings forward and exhibits the vase, filling it as he advances with rice from the paper bag, and thus concealing the orange which is already placed therein. He calls attention to the genuineness of the rice and the simplicity of the cover, and finally putting on the latter, places the vase on the ground, or elsewhere, in view of the audience. He pretends a momentary hesitation as to where to place it, and in the slight interval during which he is making up his mind he presses up the button within the foot. This opens the valve, allowing the rice to escape into the space a, and leaving the orange again uncovered. The audience is, of course, unaware that such a change has taken place.

339 The performer starts by borrowing two hats and stacking them on top of each other, with the openings facing each other, on a chair or table. He then discreetly produces an orange from a spectator's hair or beard and sets it on another table. Next, he brings forward a vase, filling it with rice from a paper bag as he goes, hiding the orange inside it. He draws attention to the authenticity of the rice and the simplicity of the cover, and after putting the cover on, he places the vase on the ground or somewhere visible to the audience. He pretends to hesitate momentarily about where to place it, and during this brief pause, he presses a button inside the foot of the vase. This opens a valve, allowing the rice to spill out into the space a, leaving the orange exposed again. The audience, of course, has no idea that this change has happened.

Leaving the vase for the moment, he requests the audience to choose one or other of the three cones on the table. The choice almost always falls on the middle one (which, it will be remembered, contains the concealed rice). This he places on the top of the upper hat. He next asks the audience to select one or other of the remaining cones, and places this over the orange upon the table, showing by rattling his wand within it that it is hollow throughout, and, if desired, handing round the remaining one for inspection.

Leaving the vase aside for the moment, he asks the audience to pick one of the three cones on the table. The choice almost always lands on the middle one (which, as a reminder, has the hidden rice inside). He then puts it on top of the upper hat. Next, he asks the audience to choose between the other two cones and places this one over the orange on the table, demonstrating by shaking his wand inside it that it's hollow all the way through, and if they want, he passes around the last one for them to inspect.

At this point we hasten to anticipate an objection which will probably occur to the reader. We have said that the audience, when called upon to choose one of the three cones, almost always select the middle one, and we have proceeded on the assumption that they do so. “But suppose,” says the acute reader, “that they don’t choose the middle one, but select one of the end ones; the trick is spoilt, as neither of the others will produce the rice.” By no means, O acute reader! If we had requested the audience to choose which of the cones should be placed upon the hat, there might have been a little difficulty, no doubt; but we did nothing of the kind. We merely asked them to choose one of the cones. If their first choice falls on one of the end ones, we hand it round for examination, and finally place it over the orange. Then, standing behind the table, we ask the audience to make340 their choice between the two remaining cones, right or left. Whichever is chosen, we are safe; for as we have already had occasion to explain in connection with the trick of the half-crown in the orange (see page 171), the right of the audience is our left, and vice versâ, so that by taking their reply in the sense which suits our purpose we are certain to be right. We therefore, in any case, take the cone containing the rice as being the one designated, and place this on the hat, sending round the other for inspection. As the audience have, to all appearance, been allowed perfect freedom of choice, and have actually examined two out of the three cones, they are very unlikely to suspect any preparation about the remaining one.

At this point, we quickly address an objection that the reader might have. We’ve said that the audience, when asked to choose one of the three cones, almost always selects the middle one, and we've assumed they do. “But what if,” says the sharp reader, “they don’t choose the middle one and pick one of the end cones? The trick is ruined because neither of the others will produce the rice.” Not at all, dear sharp reader! If we had asked the audience to decide which cone should go on the hat, there might have been some difficulty, sure; but we didn’t do that. We simply asked them to pick one of the cones. If their first choice is one of the end cones, we show it around for people to check and then place it over the orange. Then, standing behind the table, we ask the audience to choose between the two remaining cones, right or left. Whichever one they pick, we’re in the clear; because, as we've already explained regarding the trick with the half-crown in the orange (see page 171), what’s on the audience's right is our left, and vice versa, so by interpreting their choice in a way that suits us, we’re guaranteed to be correct. We therefore always take the cone containing the rice as the one they’ve indicated and place it on the hat, passing the other cone around for inspection. Since the audience seems to have complete freedom of choice and has actually looked at two of the three cones, they’re unlikely to suspect anything odd about the remaining one.

The trick is now all but complete. Once more the performer raises the cone placed on the hat, to show that there is nothing underneath it; and as he replaces it presses the button, thereby letting the flap fall, and the rice pour out upon the hat, though it remains still concealed by the cone. He next lifts up the cone under which is the orange, and holding the latter up, replaces it, but in again covering it with the cone, makes a feint of removing and slipping it into his pocket. Then noticing, or pretending to notice, a murmur on the part of the company, he says, “Oh, you think I took away the orange, but I assure you I did not.” The company being still incredulous, he again lifts the cone and shows the orange. “Here it is, you see, but as you are so suspicious, I won’t use the cover at all, but leave the orange here in full view on the table.” He again lays the orange on the table, but this time on what is called a “wrist trap.” Leaving it for the moment, he advances to the vase, and holding his hands together cup-fashion over it, but without touching it, he says, “I take out the rice, so, and pass it under this cover” (walking towards the cone on the hat, and making a motion of passing something into it). “Let us see whether it has passed.” He raises the cover, and the rice is seen. “Perhaps you think, as you did not see it, that I did not actually pass the rice from the vase to the cover. At any rate, you will not be able to say the same about the orange. I take it up, before your eyes, so!” He places his hands round it on the table, and at the same moment presses the lever of the trap, which opens, and lets it fall through into the table, closing again instantly. Keeping his hands together, as though containing the orange, he advances341 to the vase, and holding his hands over it, says, “Here is the orange which has not left your sight even for a single moment. I gently press it, so” (bringing the hands closer and closer together) “and make it smaller and smaller, till it is reduced to an invisible powder, in which state it passes into the vase.” He separates his hands, and shows them empty, and then opening the vase, rolls out the orange, and shows the vase empty, all the rice having disappeared.

The trick is nearly done. Once again, the performer lifts the cone off the hat to prove that there's nothing underneath; as he puts it back, he presses a button, causing a flap to drop and rice to pour out onto the hat, although it's still hidden by the cone. He then lifts the cone to reveal the orange, holds it up, and replaces it, pretending to slip it into his pocket. Noticing—or pretending to notice—the audience murmuring, he says, “Oh, you think I took the orange, but I assure you I didn’t.” With the audience still doubtful, he raises the cone again, revealing the orange. “Here it is, see? But since you're so suspicious, I won’t cover it anymore; I’ll leave the orange out in plain sight on the table.” He places the orange on the table, but this time on what’s called a “wrist trap.” Leaving it there for now, he moves to the vase, cups his hands over it (without touching), and says, “I take out the rice like this and pass it under this cover” (walking toward the cone on the hat and pretending to pass something into it). “Let’s see if it’s made it.” He lifts the cover, and the rice is visible. “Maybe you think, since you didn’t see it, that I didn’t really transfer the rice from the vase to the cover. But you won’t be able to say the same about the orange. I’ll pick it up right in front of you!” He puts his hands around it on the table, simultaneously pressing the trap lever, which opens up and lets the orange drop into the table, closing again instantly. Keeping his hands together as if holding the orange, he approaches the vase and says, “Here’s the orange that hasn’t left your sight for even a moment. I’ll gently compress it like this” (bringing his hands closer together) “and make it smaller and smaller until it turns into invisible powder, which then passes into the vase.” He opens his hands to show they’re empty, then opens the vase, rolls out the orange, and shows the vase empty, with all the rice having vanished.

The mechanism of the Wrist Trap will be explained in the next Chapter. If the performer does not possess a trap table, he can cause the orange to disappear in the manner referred to at page 337.

The mechanism of the Wrist Trap will be explained in the next chapter. If the performer doesn't have a trap table, they can make the orange disappear in the way mentioned on page 337.

Fig. 166.

The Magic Whistle.—The student will not have proceeded far in his magical experience before he meets with an often-recurring nuisance, in the person of some individual, old or young, who knows, or pretends to know, the secret of all his tricks, and whose greatest delight it is, by some mal-à-propos question or suggestion, to cause the performer embarrassment. The magic whistle is specially designed to punish, and, if possible, to silence, an individual of this kind. It is of turned boxwood, and of the shape shown in Fig. 166, and yields a shrill and piercing note. The performer, bringing it forward and blowing through it, announces that this little whistle, so simple in appearance, has the singular faculty of obeying his will, and of sounding or not sounding at his command alone. The loquacious gentleman is pretty sure to question the fact, or is on some pretence selected to make trial of its truth. The performer places him directly facing the audience, and after himself once more sounding the whistle, hands it to him in order to try his skill. He blows vigorously, but in vain; not a sound can he produce, but his mouth and lips gradually become obscured with a white or black dust. He finally retires to his seat amid the laughter of the audience, and generally much less disposed to make himself prominent during the remainder of the evening.

The Magic Whistle.—The student will not have gone far in his magic journey before encountering a recurring annoyance, often in the form of someone, young or old, who claims to know or pretends to know the secrets behind all his tricks. Their greatest pleasure is to cause the performer discomfort with some ill-timed question or comment. The magic whistle is specifically designed to punish and, if possible, silence such individuals. It's made of turned boxwood and has the shape shown in Fig. 166, producing a sharp, piercing sound. The performer presents it and blows into it, declaring that this seemingly simple whistle possesses the unique ability to respond to his will and can sound or remain silent solely at his command. The chatty individual is likely to challenge this claim or is somehow chosen to test its validity. The performer positions him directly in front of the audience, and after sounding the whistle again, hands it over for him to try. He blows vigorously, but nothing comes out; his mouth and lips gradually become covered in a white or black dust. Eventually, he returns to his seat amidst the laughter of the audience, generally much less eager to draw attention to himself for the rest of the evening.

The secret lies in the fact that there are two whistles—one is a perfectly ordinary instrument, but the other, though similar in appearance, does not sound, but is perforated round the inner side of the342 head (see the Figure) with a number of small holes. The head unscrews, and is beforehand filled with finely powdered chalk or charcoal, which, when the whistle is blown, is forced through the holes, and settles round the mouth of the victim.

The secret is that there are two whistles—one is a normal whistle, but the other, while looking similar, doesn’t make a sound; it has a bunch of small holes around the inside of the342 head (see the Figure). The head unscrews and is filled with finely powdered chalk or charcoal beforehand, which, when the whistle is blown, gets pushed through the holes and settles around the mouth of the victim.

With the present knowledge of the reader, the necessary exchange of the two whistles will not be regarded as offering any difficulty.

With today's understanding of the reader, the required swap of the two whistles won't be seen as a challenge.

There is a larger appliance for the same purpose in the shape of a flageolet. Another apparatus of like effect, though differing a little in detail, is called

There is a bigger device for the same purpose in the form of a flageolet. Another tool with a similar effect, though slightly different in design, is called

Fig. 167. Fig. 168.

The Magic Mill.—This is a little Mill of the form shown in Fig. 167, and five or six inches in height. It is made of zinc or tin, and consists of two portions—the upper part A, and the base B (see Fig. 168), the former sliding over the latter (as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 167), and fitting easily upon it. A is hollow throughout; a and b b are hollow tubes open at each end, a third little tube c springing at right angles from a. The base, B, is a hollow chamber, closed on all sides save at the openings d and e e. This chamber is beforehand fitted with powdered chalk or charcoal; after which A is placed in position over it. If, under these circumstances, any person blows smartly through the tube a, the effect will vary according to the position of B within A. If B be so turned that the three holes d and e e correspond with the tubes a and b b, the breath entering at d will force out the contents of B through the tubes b b, and powder the lips of the person blowing, as in the case of the magic whistle. But if, on the contrary, B be turned ever so little to the right or left, the three openings in B no343 longer corresponding with the tubes, the latter will be closed, and the breath having no other outlet, will be forced upwards through the upright tube c, thereby setting the little vane f in rapid motion. The latter is the condition in which the apparatus is brought forward by the performer. Blowing through a, he sets the mill in motion, and invites others to do likewise, in which, of course, they succeed without difficulty; but when the turn of the intended victim arrives, the performer gives A a slight twist round, in such manner as to bring the openings of B in correspondence with the three tubes, with the result already explained. We have omitted to mention that there is on the under surface of B a little raised point, corresponding in position with the opening d, so that the performer is able to tell instantly by feel whether B is or is not in the required position.

The Magic Mill.—This is a small mill shaped like the one shown in Fig. 167, and it stands about five or six inches tall. It's made of zinc or tin and consists of two parts—the upper section A, and the base B (see Fig. 168). The top part A slides over the base B (illustrated by the dotted lines in Fig. 167) and fits on it easily. A is completely hollow; a and b b are hollow tubes open at both ends, with a smaller tube c extending at a right angle from a. The base, B, is a hollow chamber that is closed on all sides except for the openings d and e e. This chamber is pre-filled with powdered chalk or charcoal, after which A is positioned on top. If someone blows firmly through the tube a, the outcome will depend on how B is oriented inside A. If B is turned so that the three holes d and e e align with the tubes a and b b, the breath entering at d will push the contents of B out through the tubes b b, powdering the lips of the person blowing, similar to what happens with the magic whistle. However, if B is turned even slightly to the right or left, the three openings in B will no longer line up with the tubes, causing the latter to close off. With no other outlet, the breath will be forced up through the upright tube c, making the small vane f spin quickly. This is the situation the performer presents. By blowing through a, they set the mill in motion and encourage others to do the same, which they can do easily. But when it’s the intended target’s turn, the performer gives A a slight twist to align the openings of B with the three tubes, resulting in the previously explained effect. We've also neglected to mention that there’s a small raised point on the underside of B that corresponds with the opening d, allowing the performer to feel immediately whether B is in the correct position.

As a matter of convenience, we shall, before proceeding further with the explanation of individual tricks, describe two or three pieces of apparatus of general utility, to one or other of which we shall have frequent occasion to subsequently refer.

For convenience, before we go further with the explanation of individual tricks, we will describe a couple of pieces of general-purpose equipment that we will often reference later.

The Drawer-Box.—This is a piece of apparatus of very frequent use in the magic art. In appearance it is an ordinary drawer, with an outer box or case of walnut or mahogany (see Fig. 169), and is made of various dimensions, according to the size of the articles with which it is intended to be used, and which may range from a pack of cards to a live rabbit. Its use is to produce or to cause the disappearance of a given article; the drawer having the faculty of appearing full or empty at pleasure.

The Drawer Box.—This is a piece of equipment that's commonly used in magic. It looks like an ordinary drawer, with an outer box or case made of walnut or mahogany (see Fig. 169), and comes in various sizes depending on the items it's meant to hold, which can range from a deck of cards to a live rabbit. Its purpose is to magically produce or make an item disappear; the drawer can appear full or empty at will.

344

344

Fig. 169. Fig. 170.
Fig. 171.

The first step towards the comprehension of the apparatus will be to completely take out the drawer, which, however, even when removed, does not at first sight indicate any speciality. On a closer examination, it will be found that the drawer is in reality double (see Fig. 170), consisting of two parts, a and b, the latter sliding backwards and forwards freely within the former, which is, in fact, a mere case or shell, open at one end. If any object, suppose an orange, be placed in b, and a and b together be placed in the outer case, it is obvious that, upon drawing out a, b will come with it, and the orange will be seen; but if b be held back, a will be drawn out alone, and the apparatus will be apparently empty. For the means of retaining a at pleasure, it will be necessary to examine the outer case, which will be found to have a groove or mortice cut in its under surface (see Fig. 171), along which lies a spring or tongue of wood, fixed by a screw at one end, the other, or free end, being provided with a catch or stud c, which, upon pressure, is forced through an opening in the bottom of the outer case, and made to sink into a little hole or notch in the bottom of b, being again withdrawn by the action of the spring as soon as the pressure is removed. The bottom of the outer case is covered with velvet, ostensibly as a finish, but really to conceal the wooden tongue. When it is desired to draw out a without b, the apparatus is held as shown in Fig. 171, and a gentle pressure applied by the finger through the velvet upon the free end of the wooden tongue, thus forcing the catch upwards, and keeping b back. If a be drawn out without this pressure, b will come with it. The upper edge of a is turned over all round, so that a casual observer is not likely to detect any difference in the thickness of the sides of the drawer, whether it is drawn out with or without its inner casing.

The first step in understanding the device is to completely take out the drawer, which, even when removed, doesn’t seem special at first. Upon closer inspection, you'll find that the drawer is actually double (see Fig. 170), made up of two parts, a and b. The latter slides back and forth freely within the former, which is essentially just a case or shell, open at one end. If you place an object, say an orange, in b, and then put both a and b into the outer case, it’s clear that, when you pull out a, b will come with it, revealing the orange. However, if you hold back b, a will be pulled out alone, and the device will seem empty. To keep a in place as needed, you’ll need to look at the outer case, which has a groove or mortice cut into its underside (see Fig. 171), along which there’s a spring or wooden tongue, secured by a screw at one end. The other end, which is free, has a catch or stud c that, when pressed, pushes through an opening in the bottom of the outer case and drops into a small hole or notch in the bottom of b. It retracts as soon as the pressure is released, thanks to the spring. The bottom of the outer case is covered with velvet, which seems like a finishing touch but actually hides the wooden tongue. When you want to pull out a without b, hold the apparatus as shown in Fig. 171 and apply gentle pressure with your finger through the velvet on the free end of the wooden tongue, forcing the catch upwards and keeping b back. If you try to pull out a without this pressure, b will come out with it. The upper edge of a is turned over all around, so a casual observer is unlikely to notice any difference in the thickness of the sides of the drawer, whether it’s pulled out with or without its inner part.

Fig. 172. Fig. 173.

Some drawer-boxes have a different arrangement for holding back345 the inner drawer, consisting of a little wire bolt lying loosely in a cylindrical cavity in the hinder end of b, corresponding with a similar cavity in the side of the outer case. As long as the drawer-box is kept in its normal position, this pin offers no obstacle to the withdrawal of b with a; but if the box be turned over on the side in which is the bolt, the latter drops partially into the hole in the outer case, thus bolting b to it, until, by again turning over the apparatus, the bolt is made to drop back again into its original position. The arrangement is rather difficult to explain in writing, but will become quite clear upon an examination of Figs. 172 and 173, both representing a section of the hinder end of the drawer-box, the one in its upright and the one in its turned-over position. The necessary turning over of the box is plausibly accounted for by the performer’s desire that the audience shall, for greater fairness, have a full view of the top of the apparatus.

Some drawer-boxes have a different setup for holding back345 the inner drawer. This consists of a small wire bolt that sits loosely in a cylindrical hole at the back end of b, matching a similar hole in the side of the outer case. As long as the drawer-box is in its normal position, this pin doesn’t interfere with pulling out b along with a; however, if the box is turned over on the side with the bolt, it falls partially into the hole in the outer case, effectively locking b in place until the apparatus is turned over again, letting the bolt return to its original position. This setup is tricky to explain in writing, but it becomes clear when examining Figs. 172 and 173, which shows a section of the back end of the drawer-box in both its upright and turned-over positions. The need to turn over the box is easily justified by the performer's intention for the audience to have a complete view of the top of the apparatus for better fairness.

Fig. 174. Fig. 175.

There is an ingenious addition sometimes found in drawer-boxes of French make, whereby b may be at pleasure bolted to a, and the two may thus be handed for examination, with little chance of their secret being detected. The bolting and unbolting is effected by a slight movement up or down of the knob in front, thereby raising or depressing a kind of hook of bent tin, working in the thickness of the front of a. Fig. 174 shows this hook in its raised or unhooked, and Fig. 175 in its depressed or hooked condition.

There’s a clever feature sometimes found in French drawer boxes, which allows b to be easily secured to a. This lets them be presented for inspection, with a low risk of their secret being discovered. The securing and releasing is done by a slight up or down movement of the front knob, which raises or lowers a bent tin hook that operates within the front thickness of a. Fig. 174 shows this hook in its raised or unhooked position, and Fig. 175 in its lowered or hooked position.

The drawer-box, as above described, is available to produce or disappear,346 but not to change articles. With a slight modification, however, it may be made available for changing also. The inner drawer b is in this case made only half the depth of a, or even less; and thus, when closed, there is left between the bottom of b and that of a a considerable space, so that a and b may in this case each be made to hold a given object, and an apparent transformation be effected. Thus, for instance, b may be filled with bran, and any small article, such as a borrowed pocket-handkerchief, be placed in a. The drawer is first pulled out with b, and shown filled to the brim with bran; but on being closed and again opened (without b), the bran is apparently transformed into the handkerchief.

The drawer box described above can produce or disappear,346 but it can’t swap items. However, with a slight adjustment, it can also be used for that purpose. In this case, the inner drawer b is made only half the depth of a, or even less; this creates a significant space between the bottom of b and that of a. Therefore, a and b can each hold a specific object, allowing for an apparent transformation. For example, b can be filled with bran, and a small item, such as a borrowed handkerchief, can be placed in a. The drawer is first pulled out with b and displayed full of bran; then, when closed and reopened (without b), the bran seems to transform into the handkerchief.

Another modification of the drawer-box is known as

Another modification of the drawer-box is known as

Fig. 176.

The Dissecting Drawer-Box.—This is, in general appearance, not unlike the ordinary drawer-box already described, but with this difference, that the outer case has a raised top, somewhat of a sarcophagus shape. (See Fig. 176). The drawer is partially drawn out to show that it is empty, is again closed, and on being once more drawn out, proves to be full to the brim with flowers. These having been distributed, the performer, to prove the perfect emptiness of the apparatus, not only takes the drawer completely out, but takes the outer case (which is constructed accordingly, the sides, top, and bottom being hinged to the back) apart, as shown in Fig. 177. Notwithstanding this, upon again reconstructing the case, and replacing and reopening the drawer, it is once more found filled with flowers.

The Dissection Drawer-Box.—This looks, in general, similar to the standard drawer-box already described, but with one key difference: the outer case has a raised top that resembles a sarcophagus shape. (See Fig. 176). The drawer is partially pulled out to show it's empty, then closed again, and when pulled out once more, it's found full to the brim with flowers. After distributing the flowers, the performer demonstrates the absolute emptiness of the apparatus by completely removing the drawer and disassembling the outer case (which is designed so that the sides, top, and bottom are hinged to the back), as illustrated in Fig. 177. Despite this, upon reconstructing the case and replacing and reopening the drawer, it is once again filled with flowers.

Fig. 177.

The reader, being acquainted with the ordinary drawer-box, will have no difficulty in accounting for the first harvest of flowers, but the second may possibly puzzle him a little. The secret lies in the top of the outer case, which, as we have already mentioned, is slightly347 pyramidal in form, allowing a considerable space between its inner and outer surface, and in this space is packed the second supply of flowers. This space is closed on its under side by a flat wooden slab a, of the same area as the inside of the drawer, held in position by a thin wooden slip or bead at either end. The hindmost of these beads, b, is so arranged as to yield to pressure, and, when the drawer is pushed slightly in, gives way just enough to release the slab before mentioned, which thereupon falls flat upon the bottom of the drawer, and upon it the hitherto concealed flowers, which, spreading as they fall, completely fill the drawer.

The reader, familiar with a typical drawer box, will easily understand how the first batch of flowers appears, but the second might confuse them a bit. The trick lies in the top of the outer case, which, as we've already noted, is slightly pyramidal in shape, creating a significant space between its inner and outer surfaces, where the second batch of flowers is stored. This space is closed off at the bottom by a flat wooden slab a, which has the same dimensions as the inside of the drawer, secured in place by a thin wooden slip or bead at each end. The back bead, b, is designed to give way when pressed, and when the drawer is pushed in slightly, it moves just enough to release the aforementioned slab, which then drops down flat onto the bottom of the drawer, allowing the previously hidden flowers to spread out as they fall and completely fill the drawer.

The Changing Card-Drawer.—This is a smaller variety of the drawer-box, designed specially for use in card tricks. The inner drawer is just large enough to contain a pack of cards, which may thus be produced or vanished by its means. Between the bottoms of the true and false or outer drawer, is a space of about an eighth of an inch. This makes the apparatus available not only to produce or vanish as above mentioned, but to transform one card into another. The card to be changed is for this purpose placed in the outer drawer, which, when closed, carries it under the bottom of the inner drawer, and in this latter is placed the card for which it is to be changed, or vice versâ.

The Evolving Card Drawer.—This is a smaller version of the drawer-box, specifically designed for card tricks. The inner drawer is just big enough to hold a deck of cards, allowing you to make cards appear or disappear. There’s a gap of about an eighth of an inch between the bottoms of the true drawer and the false or outer drawer. This design not only allows for the appearance or disappearance mentioned earlier but also enables the transformation of one card into another. To change a card, you place the card you want to replace in the outer drawer, which, when closed, slides it under the bottom of the inner drawer, where you have placed the card you want to switch it with, or vice versâ.

There is an improved form of the card-drawer, with a double change, effected on the principle of the dissecting drawer-box. This is just as above described, with the addition that when the two drawers are pressed smartly home, the action releases a thin slab of wood348 forming apparently part of the inner surface of the case, and exactly equal in area to the bottom of the inner drawer, into which it falls. When required for use, a card is placed above this slab, which, falling when required, covers the card already in the box, and exhibits instead that which had been concealed above it, as in the case of the changing card-boxes, described in the chapter devoted to card tricks. The uses of such an apparatus will be obvious; but we will describe, by way of illustration, one very good trick which may be performed with it.

There’s an upgraded version of the card drawer that has a double change, based on the concept of the dissecting drawer box. It works just like described above, but with the addition that when the two drawers are pushed in firmly, the action releases a thin piece of wood348 that seems to be part of the inner surface of the case. This piece of wood is exactly the same size as the bottom of the inner drawer and falls into it. When it's time to use it, a card is placed above this piece of wood, which then falls when needed, covering the card already in the box and revealing the one that had been hidden above it, similar to the changing card boxes mentioned in the chapter about card tricks. The applications for such a device are clear, but we will illustrate it with a really good trick that can be performed with it.

The apparatus is prepared beforehand by placing a given card (say the knave of spades) above the moveable slab, and another (say the eight of diamonds) in the outer drawer. The performer invites two persons to each draw a card, and “forces” upon them the knave of spades and eight of diamonds. The cards being replaced in the pack, he, if he has used an ordinary pack, brings them to the top by the “pass,” and palms them, or if he has used a forcing pack, exchanges that pack for an ordinary one from which those two cards have been removed. Leaving the pack on the table, he exhibits the card-drawer, taking out both drawers together, and showing, apparently, that case and drawer are absolutely empty. Closing the drawer, he announces that he will make the drawn cards leave the pack, and pass into the drawer. One of the cards (the eight of diamonds) is named, and pulling out this time the outer drawer only, he shows that it contains that card, which is taken out, and handed to the person who drew it. Again the drawer is closed, being this time pushed sharply home. The second card, the knave, being now named, the drawer is again opened, and this card shown; the drawer being again taken wholly out, and the drawer and case turned in all directions for inspection, as before, the operator only taking care to hold the drawer with one finger inside, that the moveable slab may not, by falling out, betray its presence.

The setup is done in advance by placing a specific card (let's say the knave of spades) on the movable slab and another card (like the eight of diamonds) in the outer drawer. The performer asks two people to each pick a card, and he "forces" the knave of spades and the eight of diamonds on them. After putting the cards back in the pack, if he's using a regular pack, he brings them to the top using "the pass" and palms them. If he's using a forcing pack, he swaps it for a regular one from which those two cards have been removed. Leaving the pack on the table, he shows the card drawer, pulling out both drawers at once and apparently demonstrating that both the case and the drawer are completely empty. After closing the drawer, he claims he will make the drawn cards disappear from the pack and appear in the drawer. He names one of the cards (the eight of diamonds) and pulls out just the outer drawer to show that it contains that card, which he takes out and hands to the person who picked it. The drawer is closed again, this time pushed firmly shut. When he names the second card, the knave, the drawer is opened once more to show this card; the drawer is completely taken out again, and both the drawer and case are turned in every direction for inspection, just like before, while the operator carefully holds the drawer with one finger inside so that the movable slab doesn't fall out and reveal its presence.

Fig. 178.

Changing Caddies.—These are of various kinds. We will begin with the simplest, thence proceeding to the more complicated. The conjurors caddy, in its most elementary form, is an oblong box, about six inches in length by five in height and four in width. (See Fig. 178.) One-half of its interior, which is divided into two compartments349 by a transverse bar across the top, is occupied by a drawer, or moveable compartment, so arranged as to slide freely backwards and forwards from end to end, according as the caddy is allowed to slope in the one direction or the other. (See Figs. 179 and 180.) Each compartment has its own lid, the caddy sometimes, but not always, having an outer lid in addition.

Switching Caddies.—These come in different types. We'll start with the simplest and then move on to the more complex ones. The conjuror's caddy, in its most basic form, is an oblong box, about six inches long, five inches high, and four inches wide. (See Fig. 178.) Half of its interior, which is divided into two compartments349 by a bar across the top, has a drawer or movable compartment that slides freely back and forth from one end to the other, depending on whether the caddy is tilted in one direction or the other. (See Figs. 179 and 180.) Each compartment has its own lid, and the caddy sometimes, but not always, has an outer lid as well.

Fig. 179. Fig. 180.

We will suppose that it is desired to produce any article from the caddy, first shown empty. The article in question (say an egg, hard-boiled for safety) is beforehand placed in the moveable compartment, which we will suppose to occupy for the time being the space under lid a, as shown in Fig. 179. The performer takes off the opposite lid b, and shows the space beneath empty. Before removing the second lid, he slopes the caddy in the opposite direction, so as to bring the moveable compartment under lid b (see Fig. 180), and thus is enabled to show the space under a also empty. He then proceeds with the trick, and at the right moment produces the article from the caddy.

We will assume that there’s a desire to create an item from the caddy, initially shown empty. The item in question (let's say a hard-boiled egg for safety) is placed ahead of time in the movable compartment, which we will assume occupies the space under lid a, as shown in Fig. 179. The performer removes the opposite lid b, revealing the space beneath as empty. Before taking off the second lid, he tilts the caddy the other way, so that the movable compartment is now under lid b (see Fig. 180), thus allowing him to show the space under a as also empty. He then continues with the trick and at the right moment reveals the item from the caddy.

Fig. 181.

It is obvious that the caddy above described is only available for appearances and disappearances, and not for transformations. To350 obviate this defect, the majority of caddies are now made with three compartments (see Fig. 181), with a sliding drawer occupying two of them. The caddy in this form may be used to “change” objects in manner following:—The sliding drawer being as shown in Fig. 181, the article to be ultimately produced (say an orange) is placed in b. The three compartments are now shown empty, beginning with c, and allowing the sliding drawer to assume the position shown in Fig. 182, before in turn uncovering a and b. The article to be changed (say a watch) is now placed openly in compartment b. The performer closes the lid, and, after a moment’s interval, reopens it, but in that interval slopes the caddy so as to again bring the sliding drawer into the position shown in Fig. 181, when the orange is again brought under b, and, on removing the lid, is disclosed. To show that the watch has really disappeared, the caddy may again be shown (apparently) empty, in the same manner as at first.

It’s clear that the caddy described above is only designed for appearances and disappearances, not for transformations. To fix this issue, most caddies are now made with three compartments (see Fig. 181), featuring a sliding drawer that takes up two of them. This type of caddy can be used to “change” objects in the following way: The sliding drawer is as shown in Fig. 181, and the item to be ultimately produced (let’s say an orange) is placed in b. The three compartments are now empty, starting with c, allowing the sliding drawer to take the position shown in Fig. 182, before revealing a and b in turn. The item to be changed (for example, a watch) is then placed openly in compartment b. The performer closes the lid, and after a brief pause, reopens it, but during that moment, tilts the caddy to return the sliding drawer to the position shown in Fig. 181, when the orange goes back under b, and upon lifting the lid, it is revealed. To demonstrate that the watch has truly vanished, the caddy can be shown (apparently) empty in the same way as it was at the start.

Fig. 182.

There are a good many varieties of caddies made. One is known as the “skeleton” caddy, from the fact that the bottom is made to take out, so that the company can look through all three compartments. The sliding drawer in this case is bottomless, and is so351 arranged as only to slide when the performer releases it by pressing upon a particular spot in the ornamental moulding round the bottom of the caddy. This pressure withdraws a little pin, which normally rests in a little hole in the side of the sliding drawer, and thus renders it for the time being a fixture. In some caddies, again, the sliding drawer does not run up and down by its own weight, but is moved backwards and forwards from below by means of a projecting pin passing through a slit in the bottom of the caddy. The caddy in this case does not require to be inclined one way or the other, and is on this account preferred by many to the other make.

There are many different types of caddies available. One is called the “skeleton” caddy because the bottom is designed to come out, allowing the user to see all three compartments easily. The sliding drawer in this model is bottomless and is designed to slide only when the performer presses a specific spot on the decorative molding around the bottom of the caddy. This pressure releases a small pin that typically sits in a hole on the side of the sliding drawer, making it temporarily fixed in place. In some caddies, the sliding drawer doesn’t move up and down by itself but is instead moved back and forth from below by a protruding pin that goes through a slot in the bottom of the caddy. This design doesn't require tilting, which is why many people prefer it over the other type.

The trick next described will introduce to the reader a changing caddy of another and special construction.

The following trick will introduce the reader to a changing caddy of a unique design.

Fig. 183.

The Magic Vase and Caddy. (To make peas change places with a handkerchief.)—For this trick two special pieces of apparatus are necessary. The first is a tin vase, of the shape shown in Fig. 183, and generally of about ten inches in height. It consists of three parts, the vase proper a, the cover b, and a moveable compartment or well, c, which is constructed upon a principle which we have had frequent occasion to notice, the cylindrical portion of a passing between the inner and outer wall of this moveable compartment. It is coloured exactly similar to that portion of a which it covers, which therefore looks exactly the same to the ordinary spectator, whether c be in its place or removed. The internal depth, however, of c is little more than half as deep as that of the actual vase, a. The cover b exactly fits over c, and by means of a little appliance352 called a “bayonet-catch,” will either lift c with it when removed, or release c and leave it upon a.

The Magic Vase and Caddy. (To make peas change places with a handkerchief.)—For this trick, you need two special pieces of equipment. The first is a tin vase, shaped like the one shown in Fig. 183, and is usually about ten inches tall. It has three parts: the vase itself a, the cover b, and a movable compartment or well, c, which is designed based on a principle we've often mentioned. The cylindrical part of a goes between the inner and outer wall of this movable compartment. It's colored exactly like the part of a that it covers, so it looks identical to an ordinary observer whether c is in place or removed. However, the internal depth of c is only a little more than half of the actual vase's depth, a. The cover b fits perfectly over c, and with a little device called a “bayonet-catch,” it can either lift c with it when removed or release c and leave it on a.

Fig. 184.

As this “bayonet-catch” is of constant use in magical apparatus, it will be desirable to describe it somewhat minutely. A rectangular cut or slit (see the enlarged view in Fig. 184) is made in the lower edge of the cover b. Its perpendicular arm is about a quarter of an inch in length, and its width about an eighth of an inch. A small pin or stud, about an eighth of an inch in length, projects perpendicularly from the lower edge of c, at such a height that when b is placed over c, the upper or horizontal arm of the slit shall be just level with it. If the upright arm of the slit be brought immediately over this pin, the latter will, as the cover sinks down, travel upward along the opening as far as the junction with the transverse portion of the slit. If the cover be now again lifted, the pin will, of course, offer no obstruction to its removal; but if the cover be first slightly turned to the right, the pin will become engaged in the transverse portion of the slit, and upon then lifting the cover, it will carry with it the pin, and all connected with it. When it is desired to lift off the cover alone, it will only be necessary to turn the cover a little to the left, thus bringing the pin again over the upright portion of the slit.

As this “bayonet catch” is frequently used in magical equipment, it’s useful to describe it in detail. A rectangular cut or slit (see the enlarged view in Fig. 184) is made in the lower edge of the cover b. Its vertical arm is about a quarter of an inch long, and its width is about an eighth of an inch. A small pin or stud, about an eighth of an inch long, sticks out perpendicularly from the lower edge of c, positioned so that when b is placed over c, the upper or horizontal part of the slit is just level with it. If the vertical arm of the slit is positioned directly over this pin, the pin will, as the cover lowers, move upward along the opening until it reaches the junction with the horizontal part of the slit. If you then lift the cover again, the pin won't block its removal; however, if the cover is slightly turned to the right first, the pin will get caught in the horizontal part of the slit, and when you lift the cover, it will also lift the pin and everything connected to it. When you want to remove the cover alone, you just need to turn the cover a little to the left, bringing the pin back over the vertical part of the slit.

Fig. 185.

The second piece of apparatus is a caddy (Fig. 185), in appearance not unlike an ordinary tea caddy, with three equal-sized compartments, each having its own lid. Upon close inspection it will be discovered that the internal depth of these compartments is somewhat shallow in comparison with the external measurement of the caddy,353 leaving a space about an inch deep between the inner and outer bottoms. A sliding drawer, working from end to end of the caddy, as already explained, occupies the space of two compartments. Supposing this for the moment removed, it would be found that the external caddy, in the space occupied by the two end compartments, a and c, has a false bottom covering the hollow space we have already mentioned, but that the space occupied by the middle compartment b has none. Of the two moveable compartments, which together constitute the sliding tray already mentioned (see Fig. 186), the one d has a bottom, the other e has not.

The second piece of equipment is a caddy (Fig. 185), looking similar to a regular tea caddy, featuring three compartments of equal size, each with its own lid. On closer inspection, you'll notice that the internal depth of these compartments is somewhat shallow compared to the external measurement of the caddy,353 leaving about an inch of space between the inner and outer bottoms. A sliding drawer, extending from one end of the caddy to the other, as already described, takes up the space of two compartments. If we temporarily assume this is removed, it will be found that the external caddy, in the space occupied by the two end compartments, a and c, has a false bottom covering the hollow space mentioned before, while the space of the middle compartment b does not. Of the two movable compartments that together make up the sliding tray mentioned earlier (see Fig. 186), one d has a bottom, and the other e does not.

Fig. 186.

When the sliding drawer is in its proper position in the caddy, and is pushed as far as it will go towards the one or the other end, the result is as follows:—If it is pushed to the right, the bottomless compartment e occupies the space at that end, under lid c, while the opening in the false bottom of the caddy is, for the time being, closed by the bottom of d, which now occupies the middle space. If the sliding tray is pushed to the opposite end (i.e., to the left), d will occupy the space a at that end, while the bottomless compartment e, being over the opening, gives access to the space beneath.

When the sliding drawer is in its correct position in the caddy and pushed all the way to one end, here's what happens: If it’s pushed to the right, the bottomless compartment e takes up the space at that end, underneath lid c, while the opening in the false bottom of the caddy is temporarily closed by the bottom of d, which is now in the middle space. If the sliding tray is pushed to the opposite end (i.e., to the left), d will fill the space a at that end, while the bottomless compartment e, being above the opening, provides access to the space below.

The caddy is prepared for the purpose of the trick by placing in the space between the true and false bottoms a white handkerchief, and the sliding tray is then pushed to the right, so as to bring compartment d to the middle, and thus close the opening. The vase is prepared by filling both divisions with peas. The two pieces of apparatus having been placed on the table by the assistant, the performer opens the caddy, and taking off the lids of the three divisions, and holding it with his fingers inside the right hand end (thereby preventing any possibility of the tray shifting), brings it forward to the audience, and passing rapidly in front of them, begs to introduce to their notice an old tea caddy, in which he has accidentally discovered some curious magical properties. In the present condition of the caddy all three compartments appear exactly alike, and of equal depth; and the interior being of a dead black, the spectators are not likely to notice that they are somewhat shallow. Again closing the354 lids, and replacing the caddy on the table, he next draws attention to the vase. Taking off the cover without the moveable compartment, and holding it upside down, he pours the peas contained in the upper compartment (which should not be quite full) into the cover, and back again two or three times, finally offering a handful for inspection. He then borrows a lady’s handkerchief, which should as nearly as possible resemble the substitute hidden in the caddy. He asks permission to place it, for the purpose of the trick, in the vase. This is, of course, readily granted, but the peas are in the way. After a moment’s pretended hesitation, he says, “Well, I will put them in the caddy. Pray observe that I really do so.” So saying, he pours them into d (which, it will be remembered, is for the time being the centre compartment), leaving that compartment uncovered, so that they may remain visible to all. He then places the handkerchief in the apparently empty vase, which he closes and places on the table. He continues, “You have all seen me place the handkerchief in the vase, and the peas in the caddy. Now I will show you a very curious experiment. Perhaps some scientific gentleman among the audience will explain how the effect is produced; for I confess that though I have performed this trick some scores of times, I am not quite certain myself as to the reason of the phenomenon. Let me beg you once more to assure yourselves that these are genuine peas, real common-place peas at twopence a pint, with no nonsense about them.” As he says this, he passes along the front rank of the spectators, exhibiting the peas in the caddy, and occasionally taking out a handful, and offering them for closer inspection. As he reaches the end of the line, he says, “You are all thoroughly satisfied that these are genuine peas, and that the lady’s handkerchief is in the vase upon the table. Quite right. Now observe, I don’t even touch the vase, and yet, at the word of command, the handkerchief will pass into the caddy which I hold in my hand. Pass!” During the last few words, and holding the caddy for an instant with the lid towards the audience, so as to screen his hand, he has pushed the sliding tray to the left, so that d, containing the peas, now occupies the end space, while the bottomless compartment e has taken its place in the middle. Dipping down through this compartment into the hollow space beneath, he takes out the substitute handkerchief. “My commands355 are obeyed. Here is the handkerchief. But where are the peas? Probably, as the handkerchief has taken the place of the peas, the peas have taken the place of the handkerchief. Let us see.” He uncovers the vase, lifting this time with the cover the moveable compartment containing the real handkerchief. “Yes, here are the peas, right enough,” shaking the vase, and taking them up by handfuls to show them. He continues, “Now I dare say this seems very surprising to you, but in truth it is comparatively simple. The real difficulty begins when you try to make the handkerchief and the peas travel back again to their original situation. This part of the experiment is so difficult, that I always feel a little nervous over it, but I must make the attempt.” Pushing the substitute handkerchief openly down to the position it originally occupied, he takes the opportunity, in carrying the caddy back to the table, to slide back the tray as at first, and, after a little more talk, shows that the peas have returned to the caddy, and lifting the cover alone from the vase, produces therefrom the genuine handkerchief.

The caddy is set up for the trick by placing a white handkerchief in the space between the true bottom and the false bottom. The sliding tray is then pushed to the right to bring compartment d to the middle, closing the opening. The vase is prepared by filling both sections with peas. Once both pieces are set on the table by the assistant, the performer opens the caddy, takes off the lids of the three sections, and holds it with his fingers inside the right end (preventing any chance of the tray shifting). He brings it forward to the audience, quickly passing in front of them, and introduces an old tea caddy in which he claims to have accidentally discovered some curious magical properties. In its current state, all three compartments look exactly alike and have equal depth; since the insides are a dull black, the audience is unlikely to notice that they are slightly shallow. After closing the lids again and placing the caddy back on the table, he turns attention to the vase. He takes off the cover without the movable compartment and holds it upside down, pouring the peas from the upper compartment (which should not be quite full) into the cover, and back again a couple of times before finally offering a handful for inspection. Next, he borrows a lady’s handkerchief that closely resembles the one hidden in the caddy. After asking to place it in the vase for the trick, permission is granted, but the peas are in the way. After a moment of pretending to hesitate, he says, “Well, I’ll put them in the caddy. Please watch closely that I really do this.” Saying this, he pours the peas into d (which, remember, is temporarily the center compartment), leaving it uncovered so everyone can see. He then places the handkerchief in the apparently empty vase, closes it, and sets it on the table. He continues, “You’ve all seen me put the handkerchief in the vase and the peas in the caddy. Now I’ll show you a very interesting experiment. Maybe some knowledgeable person in the audience can explain how this works because, even though I’ve performed this trick dozens of times, I’m not quite sure myself how it happens. Let me assure you one more time that these are real, ordinary peas at two pence a pint, no tricks here.” As he says this, he walks along the front row of spectators, showing the peas in the caddy and occasionally taking a handful out for closer inspection. When he reaches the end of the line, he says, “You are all completely satisfied that these are genuine peas and the lady’s handkerchief is in the vase on the table. Perfect. Now notice, I won’t even touch the vase, and yet, at my command, the handkerchief will move into the caddy I’m holding. Pass!” While saying the last few words and holding the caddy briefly with the lid facing the audience to hide his hand, he pushes the sliding tray to the left, so that d, containing the peas, is now at the end, while the bottomless compartment e is now in the middle. Reaching down through this compartment into the hollow space below, he retrieves the hidden handkerchief. “My commands are obeyed. Here is the handkerchief. But where are the peas? Since the handkerchief took the place of the peas, perhaps the peas have taken the place of the handkerchief. Let’s find out.” He uncovers the vase, this time lifting the movable compartment that contains the real handkerchief. “Yes, here are the peas,” he says, shaking the vase and lifting them out by the handful to show them. He adds, “Now I’m sure this seems very surprising to you, but in reality, it’s fairly simple. The real challenge is when you try to make the handkerchief and peas travel back to their original positions. This part of the experiment is so tricky that I always feel a little nervous about it, but I must give it a try.” As he pushes the substitute handkerchief back to where it originally was, he takes the opportunity to slide the tray back as he carries the caddy back to the table, and after chatting a bit more, he shows that the peas have returned to the caddy and lifts the cover from the vase to produce the genuine handkerchief.

Fig. 187.

The Cover, to pick up any Article.—This (called in French “ramasse-tout”) is a brass cover of six to ten inches in height, and of the shape shown in Fig. 187. Within it works backwards and forwards on a spring hinge, a kind of scoop, pressing, when at rest, against the side of the cover, as in Fig. 188, but moving into the position shown in Fig. 189 whenever pressure is applied to the button a, again returning to its original position when such pressure is removed. The manner of using it is as follows:—The performer, we will suppose, desires to cause the disappearance of an orange, in order that it (or a counterpart) may be subsequently produced in some other quarter. Placing the orange upon the table, he places the cover over it, pressing, as he does so, the button a, so as to draw back the scoop. As his hand quits the cover, the pressure being removed, the return of the spring356 causes the scoop to clip the orange tightly against the side of the cover; and if the cover be now lifted without pressing the button, it will carry the orange with it. If it is desired again to produce the orange, the button is pressed in the act of lifting the cover, which then leaves the orange on the table.

The Cover, to select any Article.—This (called in French “ramasse-tout”) is a brass cover that stands six to ten inches tall, shaped as shown in Fig. 187. Inside, it has a scoop that moves back and forth on a spring hinge, pressing against the side of the cover when at rest, as seen in Fig. 188, but sliding into the position shown in Fig. 189 whenever pressure is applied to button a, returning to its original position when the pressure is released. Here’s how to use it:—Let's say the performer wants to make an orange disappear so that it (or a copy) can be produced elsewhere later. The performer places the orange on the table and covers it with the device, pressing button a to retract the scoop. When the performer removes their hand from the cover, the spring pulls the scoop back into place, holding the orange tightly against the side of the cover. If the cover is lifted without pressing the button, it will take the orange with it. To produce the orange again, press the button while lifting the cover, which will leave the orange on the table.

It is hardly necessary to observe that the cover is always lifted perpendicularly, so that the spectator cannot see the interior.

It’s hardly worth mentioning that the cover is always lifted straight up, so the viewer can’t see inside.

Fig. 188. Fig. 189.

It is well to be provided with a second cover similar in external appearance, but without any mechanism. This may be handed round for inspection, and afterwards secretly exchanged for the mechanical cover.

It’s good to have a second cover that looks the same on the outside but doesn’t have any mechanisms. This can be passed around for people to look at, and then later swapped out for the mechanical cover without anyone noticing.

The Changing Cover.—This cover is available not only, as in the last case, to produce or vanish, but also to change one article for another. It is somewhat of the pattern of an ordinary round dish cover, with a metal knob on the top. (See Fig. 190.) It is divided by a vertical tin partition a (see Fig. 191), into two equal compartments, b and c. The lower, or open side of each of these compartments is of course semicircular. A flat tin plate, d, also semicircular, works on an upright axis, e, passing upwards through the centre of the cover, and terminating in the knob on the top. By turning, therefore,357 this knob halfway round to the right or left, the performer is enabled to close whichever of the compartments happens for the time being to be open, at the same time opening that which was previously shut. There is a little point or stop on the upper side of the semicircular plate, which meeting resistance from the vertical partition, prevents the plate making more than the necessary half-turn either way.

The Evolving Cover.—This cover can do more than just make things appear or disappear; it can also switch one item for another. It resembles a regular round dish cover with a metal knob on top. (See Fig. 190.) It's split by a vertical tin divider a (see Fig. 191), creating two equal sections, b and c. The bottom, or open side of each section is naturally semicircular. A flat semicircular tin plate, d, pivots on a vertical axis, e, that goes up through the center of the cover and ends in the knob on top. So, by turning this knob halfway to the right or left, the performer can close whichever compartment is currently open while also opening the one that was previously closed. There's a small point or stop on the top side of the semicircular plate that hits the vertical divider and prevents the plate from turning more than the needed half-turn in either direction.

Fig. 190. Fig. 191.

The apparatus is prepared by placing the article representing the result of the supposed transformation (say an apple) in either compartment, and turning the knob so as to close that compartment, and open the other. The article to be changed (say an orange) is placed upon the table, and the performer places the cover upon it, taking care that the open compartment for the time being shall come fairly over it. He then gives a half turn to the knob, thereby closing the compartment which has hitherto been open, and securing the orange within it, and at the same time releasing the apple, into which, on the cover being again raised, the orange appears to be transformed. In this case, as in the last, it is well to have a plain counterpart cover to hand round for inspection if necessary.

The device is set up by putting the item that represents the result of the supposed change (like an apple) in one compartment and turning the knob to close that compartment and open the other. The item to be transformed (like an orange) is placed on the table, and the performer puts the cover over it, making sure that the open compartment is aligned with it. Then, he gives the knob a half turn, closing the compartment that was open and trapping the orange inside while simultaneously releasing the apple, which appears to have transformed into the orange when the cover is lifted again. In this case, as in the previous one, it’s good to have a simple cover available for inspection if needed.

The uses to which the changing cover may be put are very numerous. The following is an instance of a rather original application of it, which produces a capital effect. We will suppose that the performer has executed a trick in which he has availed himself of the assistance of some juvenile member of the audience, and that an apple has been one of the “properties” of the trick. The trick being concluded, the professor asks his temporary assistant whether he would358 like to have the apple, and is of course eagerly answered in the affirmative. “Very well,” says the professor, “you shall have it; but you must first earn it by a little display of dexterity. I will put it under this cover.” He suits the action to the word. “Now I am going to say, One, two, three! At the word ‘Three’ I shall raise the cover, and you must try to snatch the apple before I replace it. If you can catch the apple in this manner three times in succession, it is yours; but on one further condition, that you eat it at once here upon the stage.” The conditions are readily accepted. “One, two, three!” cries the professor, raising the cover and disclosing the apple, which is instantly snatched up. A second time the process is gone through, with a like result. “You mean to win, I can see,” remarks the performer. “Now, once more, and the apple will be yours; but I warn you I shall be rather quicker this time. One! two!! three!!!” The eager boy springs forward, and clutches—not the apple, but a Spanish onion, which had been placed in the second compartment of the cover. “You have won, sir,” says the professor, pretending not to notice the change; “but don’t forget the second part of your bargain. You are to eat it at once, before leaving the stage.” We will leave to the imagination of the reader the discomfiture of the victim, and the amusement of the spectators; also the subsequent magical processes by which the transformed apple may be restored to its original and more fragrant condition.

The ways to use the changing cover are very varied. Here’s an example of a pretty original application that creates a great effect. Let’s say the performer has done a trick with the help of a young member of the audience, and an apple has been one of the props used. Once the trick is over, the professor asks his temporary assistant if he wants the apple, and of course, he eagerly says yes. “Alright,” says the professor, “you can have it, but you need to earn it with a little display of skill. I’ll put it under this cover.” He does just that. “Now I’m going to say, One, two, three! When I say ‘Three,’ I’ll lift the cover, and you have to try to grab the apple before I cover it again. If you can catch the apple three times in a row this way, it’s yours; but on one condition—you have to eat it right here on stage.” The conditions are quickly agreed to. “One, two, three!” shouts the professor as he lifts the cover to reveal the apple, which is instantly grabbed. They go through the process again with the same result. “You really want to win, I can tell,” the performer notes. “Now, one more time and the apple will be yours; but I warn you, I’ll be a bit quicker this time. One! two!! three!!!” The excited boy leaps forward, but grabs—not the apple, but a Spanish onion, which had been placed in the second compartment of the cover. “You’ve won, sir,” says the professor, pretending not to notice the switch; “but don’t forget the second part of your deal. You have to eat it right now, before you leave the stage.” We’ll let the reader imagine the embarrassment of the winner and the laughter of the audience, along with the magical methods by which the transformed apple can be turned back into its original and much more pleasant state.

Figs. 192, 193, 194.

The Changing Ladle.—This is a piece of apparatus designed for secretly obtaining possession of a chosen card or piece of writing. The bowl, so to speak, of the ladle is in the form of a segment of a cylinder (see Fig. 192), the size of its opening being about four inches by two and a half, and its depth three inches. It is made of tin, with a thin, cylindrical handle. The edges of the bowl are turned inwards all round to the extent of about a sixteenth of an inch, thereby serving to disguise a moveable slab of tin, a, which moves backwards and forwards like the leaf of a book within the ladle, working upon a hinge at its lower edge. This is made to work backwards and forwards by a wire rod passing through the whole length of the handle, and terminating in a little knob or cap at its outer end. The normal position of a is to lie against the inner or handle side of the bowl (see359 Fig. 193), being retained in that position by the effect of a spiral spring in the handle, which draws the wire back. If, however, pressure be applied to the knob or cap at the end of the handle, the wire is forced downwards, thereby bringing the moveable leaf a against the outer side of the bowl, as shown in Fig. 194.

The Transforming Ladle.—This is a device designed to secretly take a selected card or piece of writing. The bowl of the ladle is shaped like a segment of a cylinder (see Fig. 192), with an opening about four inches by two and a half, and a depth of three inches. It's made of tin with a thin, cylindrical handle. The edges of the bowl are bent inward all around by about a sixteenth of an inch, which helps to conceal a movable tin slab, a, that moves back and forth like a book's page within the ladle, pivoting on a hinge at its lower edge. This movement is controlled by a wire rod that runs along the entire length of the handle, ending in a small knob or cap at its outer end. The typical position of a is against the inner side of the bowl near the handle (see359 Fig. 193), held there by a spiral spring in the handle that pulls the wire back. However, when pressure is applied to the knob or cap at the end of the handle, the wire is pushed downward, causing the movable leaf a to press against the outer side of the bowl, as shown in Fig. 194.

There are various modes in which the changing ladle may be made useful. For example, it may be used to burn and restore a card. For this purpose, the ladle is prepared by placing in it beforehand any indifferent card of similar pattern to the pack in use, and is in this condition placed on the performer’s table, in such manner that the spectators may not observe that there is already a card in it. The performer then comes forward and hands to one of the company a pack of cards, with a request that he will select any one he pleases. While he is making his selection, the performer or his assistant places on the table and sets fire to some spirits of wine on a bowl or plate. A card having been chosen, the performer requests the drawer to return it to him, and, in order to exclude the possibility of any exchange or sleight-of-hand, volunteers to receive it at arm’s length in the ladle, which he brings forward for that purpose, holding it by the extreme end of the handle, and pressing with his palm the knob at the top, thereby bringing the moveable leaf into the position shown in Fig. 194, with the card already in it pressed flat against the outer side of the bowl, and thus completely hidden. The chosen card being placed in the ladle, the performer, in returning to his table, relaxes the pressure of his palm, thereby bringing the moveable leaf back into the position of Fig. 193, releasing the dummy card, and concealing that chosen against the inner side of the bowl. He then drops apparently the chosen, but360 really the substitute, card into the flames, taking care as he does so not to turn the face of the card toward the audience. The ladle, with the genuine card in it, is carried off by the assistant as having served its purpose, and the chosen card is subsequently restored after any fashion which the fancy of the operator may dictate.

There are different ways the changing ladle can be used effectively. For instance, it can be used to burn and restore a card. To prepare the ladle for this, you place a random card with a similar pattern to the ones being used inside it beforehand, making sure it's set on the performer’s table in a way that the audience won’t notice there's already a card inside. The performer then steps forward and hands a pack of cards to someone in the audience, asking them to pick any card they like. While they choose, the performer or their assistant lights some spirits of wine in a bowl or on a plate on the table. Once a card is selected, the performer asks the chooser to return it to him and, to avoid any chance of a switch or sleight-of-hand, offers to catch it at arm’s length in the ladle, which he holds by the very end of the handle. He presses the knob at the top, which moves a flap to the position shown in Fig. 194, hiding the card already inside against the outer side of the bowl. After the selected card is placed in the ladle, when the performer returns to the table, he releases the pressure on his palm, moving the flap back to the position of Fig. 193, letting the dummy card drop and hiding the selected one against the inner side of the bowl. He then tosses what seems to be the chosen card, but is actually the substitute, into the flames, making sure not to show the face of the card to the audience. The assistant takes away the ladle with the real card inside as if it has completed its function, and then the chosen card is restored in whatever way the performer prefers.

The ladle may also be used to apparently burn and restore a paper on which one of the company has written any words or figures. In this case a blank half-sheet of note-paper, folded in four, is beforehand placed in the ladle, and a piece of paper folded in the same way is handed to one of the audience, with a request that he will write what he pleases upon it, again fold it, and place it in the ladle. It is then either apparently burnt (as in the case of the card), or placed in some other apparatus, the operator making a great point of the fact that he does not touch the paper. As the genuine paper remains in the ladle, it is, of course, very easy for the performer to ascertain what is written upon it, and having displayed his knowledge, to ultimately reproduce the paper under any circumstance which he thinks fit. Sometimes the trick is varied by requesting a spectator to write a question upon the paper, which is subsequently reproduced with an appropriate answer written beneath the question.

The ladle can also be used to seemingly burn and then restore a piece of paper on which someone in the group has written words or numbers. In this case, a blank half-sheet of note paper, folded into quarters, is placed in the ladle beforehand, and a similarly folded piece of paper is given to someone in the audience, with a request for them to write whatever they want on it, fold it again, and put it in the ladle. It is then either made to look like it's burnt (like with the card) or put into some other device, while the operator emphasizes that he never touches the paper. Since the original paper stays in the ladle, it's easy for the performer to see what's written on it. After showing off his knowledge, he can ultimately reproduce the paper in whatever way he thinks is best. Sometimes the trick changes by asking a spectator to write a question on the paper, which is later reproduced with a suitable answer written underneath.

Fig. 195.
Fig. 196.

The Cone, or Skittle. (La quille).—This is a block of polished boxwood, of the shape shown in Fig. 195, with a thin shell of the same material exactly covering it, and so closely resembling it in appearance, that the solid block and the hollow shell, seen apart, cannot be distinguished the one from the other. The cone is made in various sizes, from three inches in height by one and a half at the base, to seven inches in height by three at the base. It is worked with a paper cover, consisting of an open tube of cartridge paper about double the height of the cone, and tapering in such manner that its larger end shall fit loosely over the cone. The performer brings forward this paper tube in his right hand, and the cone (with the hollow shell upon it) in his left, taking care to hold his fingers beneath it in such manner that the solid cone cannot fall out. He first calls attention to the paper tube, which the audience361 are allowed to examine at pleasure. When it is returned to him, he says, “You are now quite satisfied that there is no preparation about this tube, which is, in fact, simply a cover for this block of wood.” As if merely suiting the action to the word, he covers the block with the tube, immediately removing it again, and carelessly laying the cover on the table. In removing it, however, he grasps it with a gentle pressure, and so takes off with it the hollow shell (see Fig. 196), of whose existence the audience have no suspicion. He continues, “Perhaps you would also like to examine the block, which you will find to be a plain, solid piece of wood, without mechanism or preparation of any kind.” The block having been duly examined, the supposed empty cover is placed upright upon the table; and the solid block having been disposed of by any means in the performer’s power, is ordered to pass invisibly under the cover, which being raised, the hollow shell is seen, appearing to the eye of the audience to be the block itself, and to have found its way there in obedience to the performer’s command.

The Cone, or Skittle. (La quille).—This is a block of polished boxwood, shaped like the one shown in Fig. 195, encased in a thin shell made from the same material that looks so similar that, when seen separately, you can't tell the solid block and the hollow shell apart. The cone comes in various sizes, from three inches tall with a base of one and a half inches, to seven inches tall with a base of three inches. It's wrapped with a paper cover, which is an open tube made of cartridge paper, about twice the height of the cone, tapering so that the wider end fits loosely over the cone. The performer holds the paper tube in his right hand and the cone (with the hollow shell on it) in his left, making sure to keep his fingers underneath so the solid cone doesn’t fall out. He first draws attention to the paper tube, allowing the audience361 to examine it as they wish. Once it's returned, he says, “You’re now completely convinced that there’s no trick with this tube, which is really just a cover for this block of wood.” As if to prove his point, he covers the block with the tube, immediately taking it off again and carelessly placing the cover on the table. However, when he lifts it, he does so with a gentle grip, secretly taking off the hollow shell (see Fig. 196), which the audience is unaware of. He then continues, “Maybe you’d like to check out the block, which you’ll see is a plain, solid piece of wood, with no mechanisms or preparations of any sort.” After the block has been thoroughly examined, the supposed empty cover is set upright on the table; and with some clever maneuvering, the solid block is made to appear to pass invisibly under the cover, which, when lifted, reveals the hollow shell, making it look to the audience as if it is the block itself, having followed the performer's command.

The above is the working of the “cone” in its simplest and barest form, but no skilled performer would dream of presenting the illusion in such a common-place way. To make the trick effective, it should be so arranged as to make the cone apparently change places with some other article. There are many combinations which might be suggested, but we shall content ourselves with describing one or two of those in most general use. The smaller sized cones may be worked in conjunction with a goblet and ball (the same as those used for the Cups and Balls), in manner following:—Having tendered for inspection the cone and cover as already described, and placed them on the table, the performer offers the goblet and ball in like manner for inspection. When they are returned, he places them also upon the table, a little distance apart, and meanwhile palms a362 second ball, which should be in readiness either on the servante, or in one of his pochettes. He now places the paper cover (which, it will be remembered, contains the hollow shell) over the first ball on the table. “Pray observe,” he remarks, “that I have fairly covered over the ball” (here he raises and replaces the cover, pressing so as to lift the shell with it, and showing that the ball is still there). “The goblet, as you have seen, is perfectly empty.” (Here he raises the goblet, and, in replacing it, introduces the second ball under it, as described in the chapter devoted to the Cups and Balls.) “I shall now order the ball to pass from the cover under the goblet.” He waves his wand from the one to the other. “Presto! Prestissimo! Pass!” (He raises the goblet, and shows that the ball has (apparently) passed under it.) The first ball still remaining under the paper tube, he cannot at present raise it, so proceeds rapidly to the next stage of the trick, that the omission may not be noticed. “So far,” he remarks, “the trick is mere child’s play. The real difficulty is to pass the cone under the cover in place of the ball. However, I will make the attempt.” So saying, he picks up the cone with his right hand, and apparently transfers it to his left, really palming it, and immediately afterwards dropping his right hand to his side, and getting rid of the cone into the profonde. Then, taking two or three steps away from the table, still holding the left hand as if containing the cone, and looking towards the cover, he says, “One, two, three, Pass!” with a motion of the hand as if throwing something; immediately showing the hands empty, and lifting up the cover (but this time by the top, so as not to exert any pressure against its sides), and showing the hollow shell, which now conceals the ball, and is taken by the spectators to be the genuine cone. “We have succeeded pretty well so far, ladies and gentlemen,” he remarks; “it remains to be seen whether I shall be equally successful in bringing back the cone and ball to their original positions. I dare say you would all like to know how the trick is done, and therefore this time I will vary the mode of operation, and make the transposition visibly.” (Here he drops his right hand to the profonde, and secretly palms the solid cone.) “First the cone” (he passes his right hand, keeping the back towards the audience, upwards along the cover, and, as it reaches the top, brings the cone into view). “Pray once more assure yourselves that363 it is fair and solid. Now for the ball.” He picks up the ball with the left hand, and holding it between the finger and thumb, apparently transfers it, by the pass called the tourniquet (see page 150), to the right, forthwith getting rid of it into the profonde on the left side. “Pray observe that it does not leave your sight even for a moment.” Then holding his hand high above the paper cover, he makes a “crumbling” movement with it, immediately showing it empty, and lifting the cover with a slight pressure, so as to carry the shell with it, shows the ball beneath. The attention of the spectators being naturally attracted to the ball, it is an easy matter to let the hollow shell slip out of the paper cover upon the servante, and again to hand the cover for examination.

The above explains how the "cone" works in its simplest form, but no skilled performer would ever think of presenting the illusion in such a basic way. To make the trick really effective, it should be arranged to show the cone seemingly changing places with another object. There are many combinations that could be suggested, but we'll stick to describing one or two of the most common. The smaller cones can be used along with a goblet and a ball (the same ones used for the Cups and Balls), in the following manner: After showing the cone and cover for inspection and placing them on the table, the performer offers the goblet and ball for inspection as well. Once they're returned, he places them on the table a little distance apart while secretly palming a362 second ball, which should be ready either on the servante or in one of his pochettes. He then places the paper cover (which, as a reminder, contains the hollow shell) over the first ball on the table. “Please observe,” he says, “that I have completely covered the ball” (here he lifts and replaces the cover, pressing it so that the shell comes up with it, showing the ball is still there). “The goblet, as you can see, is completely empty.” (Here he lifts the goblet and, when placing it back down, secretly puts the second ball under it, as described in the chapter dedicated to the Cups and Balls.) “Now I will make the ball pass from under the cover to beneath the goblet.” He waves his wand from one to the other. “Presto! Prestissimo! Pass!” (He lifts the goblet, showing that the ball has apparently passed under it.) With the first ball still under the paper cover, he can’t lift it just yet, so he quickly moves on to the next part of the trick to avoid drawing attention. “So far,” he says, “the trick is child’s play. The real challenge is to pass the cone under the cover instead of the ball. However, I will attempt it.” Saying this, he picks up the cone with his right hand and appears to transfer it to his left while secretly palming it, then drops his right hand to his side, getting rid of the cone into the profonde. Taking a few steps away from the table, still holding his left hand as if it contains the cone, he looks toward the cover and says, “One, two, three, Pass!” with a gesture as if tossing something; he immediately shows his hands empty and lifts the cover (this time by the top so there’s no pressure on the sides), revealing the hollow shell, which now hides the ball and is taken by the audience to be the real cone. “We have done pretty well so far, ladies and gentlemen,” he says; “now we’ll see if I can successfully bring back the cone and ball to their original positions. I’m sure you all want to know how the trick is done, so this time, I’ll change the way I operate and make the transposition visible.” (Here he drops his right hand to the profonde, secretly palming the solid cone.) “First the cone” (he passes his right hand, back toward the audience, upward along the cover, bringing the cone into view as he reaches the top). “Please assure yourselves once more that363 it is fair and solid. Now for the ball.” He picks up the ball with his left hand, holds it between his fingers and thumb, and seemingly transfers it using the move called the tourniquet (see page 150), immediately getting rid of it in the profonde on the left side. “Please notice that it doesn’t leave your sight even for a moment.” Then, holding his hand high above the paper cover, he makes a “crumbling” gesture with it, quickly showing it empty, and lifts the cover with slight pressure, causing the shell to come up with it, revealing the ball underneath. With the audience's attention drawn to the ball, it’s easy to let the hollow shell slide out of the paper cover onto the servante and then hand the cover back for inspection.

Some performers, instead of using the goblet, work the small cone with the “ball-box” (see page 296).

Some performers, instead of using the goblet, work the small cone with the “ball-box” (see page 296).

It is obvious that the directions above given will apply only where the cone is of a size so small as to be readily palmed, in which case it is hardly conspicuous enough to be used before a large audience. Where a cone of larger dimensions is employed, it is necessary to vary the mode of operation. We shall therefore proceed to describe the trick in its stage form, as worked by Herrmann and other public performers.

It’s clear that the instructions above are only suitable for a cone small enough to be easily held in the hand, making it hardly noticeable for a large audience. When using a larger cone, the method needs to be adjusted. We will now describe the trick as it is performed on stage by Herrmann and other public performers.

The cone in this case is about seven inches high, and is worked in conjunction with a “drawer-box” of such a size as to contain it easily. Having handed round for inspection the cover and cone, as already described, the performer suddenly remembers that he requires an orange, which he forthwith produces from his wand. (It is hardly necessary to observe that the orange is beforehand placed in readiness in one of the pochettes, and is produced from the wand in the manner described for producing a ball. See page 276). Laying down the orange on the table, he next exhibits the drawer-box, taking the drawer completely out, and, after showing it on all sides, replacing it. He then covers the orange on the table with the paper cover (containing the hollow shell), and places the solid cone in the drawer-box, which being of the kind described at page 345, he turns upon its side, with its top toward the audience. He meanwhile palms in his right hand, from his pocket or the servante, a second orange. He now announces that he is about to take the orange back again, which he does by passing his wand up the side of the cover, and immediately364 producing therefrom the second orange. He places this upon another table at a little distance, and covers it with a borrowed hat, making as he does so a feint of removing it, and slipping it into his tail pocket. He hears, or pretends to hear, some one remark that he took away the orange, and answers accordingly. “Oh! you think I took away the orange. Allow me to assure you that I did nothing of the kind.” (He lifts up the hat, and shows the orange in its place.) “I will cover it again; or, still better, to prove that I do not take it away, I won’t cover it at all, but leave it here in full view on the table.” He replaces it on the table, but this time places it on what is called a “wrist-trap,” in readiness for a subsequent disappearance. “Having taken the orange from under the cover,” he continues, “I have now to make the solid block vanish from the drawer, and take its place; but I shall do it this time invisibly. See, I have only to wave my wand from the one to the other, and the thing is done. The drawer is empty” (pulling out the false drawer only), “and here is the block” (he lifts the paper cover, and shows the hollow shell). “Now I come to the most difficult part of the trick, which is to bring both articles back to their original position. First, I will take the block of wood.” He covers the shell with the paper tube, and makes a movement of his wand from the cover to the drawer. “Pass! Let us see whether it has obeyed.” He this time pulls the drawer completely out, and lets the block fall heavily on the stage. “Now for the orange.” He places both hands round it, as if picking it up between them, and presses as he does so the spring of the trap, which opening, lets the orange fall through into the table. Bringing the hands, still together, immediately above the paper cover, he rubs them together as if compressing the orange, finally separating them and showing them empty, and immediately afterwards lifting the cover with the hollow shell, and showing the first orange beneath it.

The cone in this case is about seven inches tall and is used along with a "drawer-box" that's sized to fit it easily. After showing the cover and cone for inspection, the performer suddenly remembers that he needs an orange, which he quickly retrieves from his wand. (It's not necessary to mention that the orange was prepped in one of the pochettes and is taken from the wand like a ball. See page 276). He places the orange on the table, then presents the drawer-box, removing the drawer completely, showing it from all angles before putting it back. Next, he covers the orange on the table with the paper cover (which holds the hollow shell) and puts the solid cone in the drawer-box, which is of the type described on page 345, and tilts it on its side, top facing the audience. Meanwhile, he secretly keeps a second orange in his right hand, either from his pocket or the servante. He announces he's going to take the orange back, doing so by passing his wand along the cover, and immediately produces the second orange from there. He places this on another table at a distance, covering it with a borrowed hat, and pretends to remove it and slip it into his tail pocket. Hearing, or pretending to hear, someone say he took the orange, he responds, “Oh! You think I took away the orange. Let me assure you I did nothing of the sort.” (He lifts the hat and shows the orange still there.) “I’ll cover it again; or even better, to prove I’m not taking it away, I won’t cover it at all, but leave it out in the open on the table.” He puts it back on the table, this time on what’s called a “wrist-trap,” prepared for a later disappearance. “Having taken the orange from under the cover,” he continues, “I now need to make the solid block disappear from the drawer and take its place; but I’ll do this invisibly this time. Watch, I just need to wave my wand from one to the other, and it’s done. The drawer is empty” (pulling out the fake drawer only), “and here’s the block” (he lifts the paper cover and shows the hollow shell). “Now I get to the hardest part of the trick, which is bringing both items back to their original positions. First, I’ll take the block of wood.” He covers the shell with the paper tube and waves his wand from the cover to the drawer. “Pass! Let’s see if it worked.” This time, he pulls the drawer all the way out and lets the block fall loudly onto the stage. “Now for the orange.” He places both hands around it, as if picking it up, and presses the spring of the trap, which opens, causing the orange to drop through the table. Holding his hands together above the paper cover, he rubs them as if compressing the orange, then separates them to show they’re empty, and immediately lifts the cover with the hollow shell to reveal the first orange beneath it.

It will be observed that the trick above described is, in some of its parts, very similar to that described at page 337. The mechanism of the wrist-trap will be found explained in the next chapter. In the meantime the student may produce the same effect without using a trap at all, by means of the sleight described at page 294.

It will be noted that the trick described above is, in some aspects, quite similar to the one mentioned on page 337. The mechanism of the wrist trap will be explained in the next chapter. In the meantime, the student can achieve the same effect without using a trap at all, by using the technique described on page 294.

Fig. 197.
Fig. 198.

The Cone and Bouquet.—This is another form of the cone365 trick, involving the use of rather more elaborate apparatus. The cone in this case is about five inches in height by three at the base, and tapers very slightly. It may be either of boxwood, as in the trick last described, or the block may be of any hard wood, and the hollow shell of tin to fit, each blacked and polished, so as to look exactly alike. It is used in conjunction with a paper cover as before, and two little bunches of flowers, exactly alike, and of such a size as to be just covered by the hollow shell. Each of these little bouquets is made upon a tin framework, consisting of a wire arch springing from a flat saucer-like base. (See Fig. 197.) A pedestal and cover complete the apparatus. The pedestal a (see Fig. 198) is cylindrical; and about six inches in height, by four across the top. Its upper surface consists of a circular plate of tin, working up and down piston-wise in the pedestal. This is forced upwards by a spiral spring, but yields to pressure, sinking vertically to a depth of four or five inches when necessary. The upper edge of the pedestal is slightly turned in all round, so that the top may not be pressed out altogether by the force of the spring. An outer casing of tin, b, fits over a, just so tightly as to resist the upward pressure of the spring when forced down by any object between the pedestal and this casing. The cover, c, is about double the height of a, and by means of a bayonet catch (see page 352) may be lifted off either with or without b at pleasure.

The Cone and Bouquet.—This is another version of the cone365 days trick, that uses a bit more complex equipment. The cone is about five inches tall and three inches at the base, tapering slightly. It can be made of boxwood like in the previous trick, or it can be fashioned from any hard wood, with a hollow tin shell that fits over it, all blacked and polished to look identical. It's used with a paper cover as before, along with two identical small bunches of flowers that are just the right size to be hidden by the hollow shell. Each bouquet is built on a tin framework, featuring a wire arch attached to a flat, saucer-like base. (See Fig. 197.) A pedestal and cover complete the setup. The pedestal a (see Fig. 198) is cylindrical, about six inches tall and four inches wide at the top. The upper surface has a circular tin plate that moves up and down like a piston inside the pedestal. This plate is pushed up by a spiral spring but can be pressed down, sinking vertically to a depth of four or five inches when needed. The upper edge of the pedestal is slightly rolled in to ensure that the top isn't pushed out completely by the spring's pressure. An outer tin casing, b, fits snugly over a, just tight enough to withstand the spring's upward force when something is placed between the pedestal and this casing. The cover, c, is about twice the height of a and can be removed with or without b using a bayonet catch (see page 352).

366

366

Fig. 199.
Fig. 200.

The pedestal is prepared for use by removing b, and placing one of the little bouquets on the top of a; then again putting on b, and forcing it down into its place, when the condition of the apparatus will be as shown (in section) in Fig. 199. The wire arch prevents the flowers being crushed out of shape by the pressure of the spring. The pedestal and cover are now brought forward and placed on the table; also the cone (with the shell on), the paper tube to cover it, and the remaining bunch of flowers. The paper tube is first exhibited, placed over the cone, and removed with the hollow cone within it, as in the last trick. The solid cone is then offered for examination, and having been duly inspected, is placed upon the pedestal. The performer makes a movement as if about to place over it the cover c, but checks himself in the act, and shows that this cover is empty and hollow throughout. He then puts on the cover, and reverting to the bunch of flowers on the table, covers it with the paper tube. He next announces that in obedience to his command, the block and the bunch of flowers will change places. He raises the paper tube, holding it by the top, and thus leaves behind the hollow shell, covering and concealing the bunch of flowers. He next takes off the cover of the pedestal, first, however, turning the bayonet catch, so as to lift off with the cover the casing b. The solid cone is carried off between the casing and the cover (see Fig. 200), while the action of the spring, the casing being removed, brings the concealed bunch of flowers to the top of367 the pedestal, in the position lately occupied by the cone. Having shown that the cone and the flowers have changed places, the performer next undertakes to bring them back to their original situation, which, by reversing the process, he does without difficulty.

The pedestal is set up by taking off b and placing one of the small bouquets on top of a. Then, b is put back on and pressed down into its spot, at which point the apparatus will look like what's shown in Fig. 199. The wire arch keeps the flowers from getting squished by the spring’s pressure. The pedestal and cover are then moved forward and set on the table, along with the cone (with the shell on it), the paper tube to cover it, and the other bunch of flowers. The paper tube is first shown, placed over the cone, and then lifted off, revealing the hollow cone inside, just like in the last trick. The solid cone is then offered for inspection and, after being checked, is placed on the pedestal. The performer pretends to put the cover c over it but stops and shows that this cover is completely empty inside. He then puts the cover on and, turning back to the bunch of flowers on the table, covers it with the paper tube. He announces that, by his command, the block and the bunch of flowers will swap places. He lifts the paper tube by the top, leaving the hollow shell behind, which conceals the bunch of flowers. He then removes the cover from the pedestal, first turning the bayonet catch to lift off casing b with the cover. The solid cone is taken out between the casing and the cover (see Fig. 200), while the action of the spring, with the casing removed, brings the hidden bunch of flowers to the top of367 the pedestal, right where the cone was before. After showing that the cone and the flowers have swapped places, the performer proceeds to return them to their original spots, which he does easily by reversing the process.

The pedestal above described is a very useful piece of apparatus, being available either to produce, change, or vanish any article of appropriate size. A very effective trick may be performed therewith by causing an empty tumbler to appear full, or vice versâ. In this case, however, it should by no means be admitted that an exchange takes place, as the supposed filling of an empty glass with water by covering it with an evidently unsophisticated cover, is rather the more surprising phenomenon.

The pedestal mentioned above is a really useful tool that can produce, change, or make any item of suitable size disappear. A fantastic trick can be done with it by making an empty glass appear full, or vice versâ. In this case, it should definitely not be suggested that an exchange occurs, as the idea of filling an empty glass with water by simply covering it with a clearly simple lid is the more surprising effect.

The Flying Glass of Water.—This capital trick was, we believe, first introduced to the public by Colonel Stodare, to whom the profession is indebted for many first-class illusions. The necessary apparatus consists of a couple of ordinary glass tumblers, exactly alike, with an india-rubber cover just fitting the mouth of one of them, and a coloured handkerchief of silk or cotton made double (i.e., consisting of two similar handkerchiefs sewn together at the edges), with a wire ring (of the size of the rim of one of the tumblers, or a fraction larger) stitched loosely between them, in such manner that when the handkerchief is spread out the ring shall be in the middle.

The Floating Glass of Water.—This amazing trick was, we think, first presented to the public by Colonel Stodare, who has contributed many top-notch illusions to the profession. The required setup includes two identical glass tumblers, a rubber cover that fits snugly over the mouth of one, and a colored silk or cotton handkerchief made double (i.e., made from two identical handkerchiefs sewn together at the edges), with a wire ring (about the size of the rim of one of the tumblers or slightly larger) stitched loosely between them, so that when the handkerchief is spread out, the ring is centered.

Fig. 201.
Fig. 202.

The performer, beforehand, nearly fills one of the tumblers with water, and then puts on the india-rubber cover, which, fitting closely all round the edge, effectually prevents the water escaping (see Fig. 201). The glass, thus prepared, he places in the profonde on his right side. He then brings forward the other glass and a decanter of water, and the prepared handkerchief, and in full view of the audience fills the glass with water up to the same height as he has already filled the one in his pocket, and hands round glass and water for inspection. When they are returned, he places the glass upon the table, a few inches from its hinder edge, and standing behind it,368 covers it with the handkerchief, first spreading out and showing both sides of the latter, proving, to all appearance, that there is no preparation about it. In placing the handkerchief over the glass, he draws it across in such manner as to bring the hidden ring as exactly as possible over the top of the glass. Then placing the left hand over the handkerchief, as shown in Fig. 202, he raises, apparently, the glass within the handkerchief, but really the empty handkerchief only, which is kept distended by the ring, and, at the same time, under cover of the handkerchief, gently lowers the glass of water with the other hand on to the servante. This is by no means difficult, as the pretended carefulness of the operator not to spill the water allows him to make the upward movement of the left hand as deliberate as he pleases. All that is really necessary is to take care to follow with his eyes the movement of the left hand, which will infallibly draw the eyes and the minds of the audience in the same direction. Having raised the supposed tumbler to a height of about two feet from the table, the performer brings it forward to the audience, and requests that some gentleman with a steady hand will favour him with his assistance. A volunteer having been found, and having given satisfactory replies as to the steadiness of his nerves, and the strength of his constitution generally, is requested to place his hand under the handkerchief and take the glass. As he proceeds to obey, the performer lets go of the handkerchief with the left hand, still retaining one corner with the right, and lets the right arm with the handkerchief drop to his side. Pretending to believe that the gentleman has taken the glass, and not to notice its disappearance, he turns carelessly aside, and brings forward a small table or chair, saying, “Put it here, please.” Looking, generally, somewhat foolish, the victim replies369 that he has not got it. If the performer is a good actor, he may here make some fun by pretending to believe that the victim has concealed the glass, and pressing him to return it. At last he says, “Well, if you won’t give it to me, I must find it for myself,” and he proceeds to tap with his wand the sleeves and pockets of the unfortunate individual, but without success, till, on touching him between the shoulders, he pretends to tell by the sound that the glass is there. “Yes, here it is,” he remarks. “I am sorry to be obliged to ask you to turn your back on the company, but to show them that there is no deception on my part, I am compelled to do so. Will you please turn round for one minute.” On his doing so, the performer, again shaking out the handkerchief, and showing both sides of it to prove it empty, spreads it over the back of the victim. Again he taps with his wand, which, striking the ring through the handkerchief, causes an unmistakeable hard sound to be heard; and then grasping the ring as before through the handkerchief, he deliberately raises it up in a horizontal position, the effect being as if the glass had again returned to the handkerchief. He then says, “I don’t think I will trouble this gentleman again; he is too much of a conjuror himself;” then turning rapidly to the audience, he says, “Catch, ladies and gentlemen,” and “flicks” the handkerchief quickly towards the spectators, who duck their heads in expectation of a shower. “Pardon me, ladies, I fear I alarmed you; but you need not have been afraid; I never miss my aim. That gentleman has the glass” (designating anyone he pleases). “May I trouble you to step forward one moment, sir?” On the person indicated doing so, the performer places him facing the audience, and under cover of his body takes the second glass out of the profonde, and throws the handkerchief over it, remarking, “Yes, ladies and gentlemen, here it is, in this gentleman’s tail pocket.” Then taking hold of the glass with the left hand beneath the handkerchief, he clips with the first finger and thumb, through the handkerchief, the edge of the india-rubber cover, and thus drawing off the cover inside the handkerchief, hands round the glass and water for inspection.

The performer first fills one of the tumblers with water and then puts on the rubber cover, which fits snugly around the edge to prevent any water from spilling out (see Fig. 201). He places the prepared glass in the profonde on his right side. Next, he brings out another glass, a decanter of water, and a handkerchief, filling the new glass with water to match the height of the glass in his pocket, and then hands both the glass and the water around for the audience to check. Once they're returned, he sets the glass on the table a few inches from the back edge. Standing behind it, he covers it with the handkerchief, first spreading it out and showing both sides to prove there’s nothing hidden. While covering the glass, he positions the hidden ring directly over the top of it. Then, with his left hand over the handkerchief as shown in Fig. 202, he appears to lift the glass within the handkerchief, but he’s really just lifting the empty handkerchief, which stays open because of the ring. Meanwhile, with his other hand, he gently lowers the glass of water onto the servante. This isn’t difficult since his pretended carefulness not to spill the water lets him move his left hand as slowly as he wants. All he needs to do is keep his eyes on the movement of the left hand, which will naturally draw the audience’s attention in that direction. After raising the supposed tumbler to about two feet above the table, he brings it forward and asks a gentleman with a steady hand for help. When a volunteer steps up and assures him of his steadiness and strength, the performer asks him to place his hand under the handkerchief and take the glass. As the volunteer complies, the performer releases the handkerchief with his left hand but still holds one corner with his right, letting that arm drop to his side. Acting as though he believes the gentleman has the glass and hasn’t noticed its disappearance, he carelessly turns aside, getting a small table or chair, saying, “Put it here, please.” Looking a bit confused, the volunteer replies369 that he doesn’t have it. If he's good at acting, the performer may have some fun pretending to think the volunteer has hidden the glass and pressing him to return it. Eventually, he says, “Well, if you won’t give it to me, I’ll have to find it myself,” and starts tapping the volunteer's sleeves and pockets without success until he pretends to hear the glass between his shoulders. “Yes, here it is,” he observes. “I’m sorry to have to ask you to turn your back to the audience, but to show them there’s no trickery on my part, I must do it. Would you please turn around for just a moment?” When the volunteer does so, the performer shakes out the handkerchief again, showing both sides to prove it’s empty, and drapes it over the volunteer’s back. He taps with his wand, which strikes the ring through the handkerchief, producing a clear sound, then he grabs the ring as before through the handkerchief and smoothly lifts it up horizontally, creating the illusion that the glass has returned to the handkerchief. He then says, “I don’t think I’ll bother this gentleman again; he’s too much of a magician himself,” and quickly turns to the audience, saying, “Catch, ladies and gentlemen,” flicking the handkerchief at the spectators, who duck in anticipation of a splash. “Excuse me, ladies, I hope I didn’t scare you; but you didn’t need to worry; I never miss my target. That gentleman has the glass” (pointing to anyone he likes). “Could you step forward for a moment, sir?” When the selected person steps up, the performer positions him to face the audience and secretly retrieves the second glass from the profonde, covering it with the handkerchief and saying, “Yes, ladies and gentlemen, here it is, in this gentleman’s back pocket.” Then, holding the glass with his left hand under the handkerchief, he pinches the edge of the rubber cover with his thumb and finger through the handkerchief, pulling the cover off inside the handkerchief, and hands the glass and water around for inspection.

Fig. 203.

Two improvements have recently been made in this trick, which, though trifles in themselves, greatly heighten the effect. Upon a performance of the trick as already described, it is not uncommon to370 find some person, more acute than the average, guess that there is a ring in the handkerchief. The first of the improvements we have mentioned is designed to make the ring no longer a fixture, and yet to insure bringing it into the right position when necessary. This is effected by stitching the two handkerchiefs together, not only round the edge, as already explained, but also as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 203. This confines the ring to the triangular enclosure, a e d, within which, however, it is allowed to move freely, not being attached to the handkerchief in any way. If the handkerchief is held by the two corners a d (which should be distinguished by a mark of coloured silk or worsted, so as to be readily identified by the performer) the ring will take its proper place in the middle, as shown in the figure. If, on the other hand, the handkerchief be held by either the corners a b or c d, the ring will forthwith run into the angle a d e or d a e, as the case may be, and the handkerchief, if grasped a little below this particular corner, may be twisted or pulled through the hands ropewise, proving, with apparent conclusiveness, that there is no ring or shape concealed in it.

Two recent improvements have been made to this trick that, while small in themselves, significantly enhance the overall effect. During the performance of the trick as previously described, it’s not uncommon for someone, being more observant than the average, to guess that there's a ring involved in the handkerchief. The first improvement we mentioned is meant to make the ring no longer fixed in place, while still ensuring it can be positioned correctly when needed. This is achieved by stitching the two handkerchiefs together not only along the edges, as previously explained, but also as illustrated by the dotted line in Fig. 203. This keeps the ring within the triangular area, a e d, where it can move freely, without being attached to the handkerchief in any way. If the handkerchief is held by the two corners a d (which should be marked with colored silk or yarn for easy identification by the performer), the ring will settle in the center, as shown in the figure. Conversely, if the handkerchief is held by either the corners a b or c d, the ring will immediately slide into the angle a d e or d a e, depending on the situation, and the handkerchief, if held a little below this specific corner, can be twisted or pulled in a rope-like manner, convincingly demonstrating that there is no ring or shape hidden in it.

The second improvement is to have ready on the servante a small piece of sponge, recently dipped in water. This is picked up by the right hand of the performer as he places the genuine glass on the servante. When he has moved away from his table, at the moment of requesting his volunteer assistant to take the glass, he places the right hand for a moment under cover of the handkerchief, and squeezes the sponge, the water that immediately pours from it being, apparently, accidentally spilt, and so negativing any possible doubt371 on the part of the spectators that the glass is really in the handkerchief. With these two additions the trick is one of the most effective that can possibly be performed, whether in a drawing-room or on the public stage.

The second improvement is to have a small piece of sponge, recently dipped in water, ready on the servante. The performer picks this up with his right hand as he places the actual glass on the servante. Once he steps away from his table, at the moment he asks his volunteer assistant to take the glass, he quickly places his right hand under the cover of the handkerchief and squeezes the sponge, allowing the water that pours out to appear as if it was accidentally spilled, thereby eliminating any doubt from the spectators that the glass is really in the handkerchief. With these two additions, the trick becomes one of the most effective performances possible, whether in a drawing room or on a public stage.371

The Bowls of Water and Bowls of Fire produced from a Shawl.—After the explanation of the last trick, the reader will form a tolerably good guess at the means of performing this, which has puzzled thousands, and is still one of the most popular feats in the répertoire of the conjuror.

The Bowls of Water and Bowls of Fire created from a Shawl.—After the explanation of the last trick, the reader will probably have a pretty good idea of how to do this, which has baffled thousands and is still one of the most popular tricks in the répertoire of the magician.

The performer comes forward with a shawl in his hand, which he spreads out and exhibits on both sides, to show (as is really the fact) that there is no preparation about it. The spectators being satisfied on this point, and the orchestra playing the “Ghost Melody” or other appropriate accompaniment, he swings the shawl about in time to the music, finally throwing it over his left shoulder and arm, the arm being held square before him. The arm now gradually sinks down, and the form of some solid object is seen defined beneath the shawl, which, being removed, reveals a glass bowl brimming with water, and with gold fish swimming about in it. This is repeated a second and a third time, the performer sometimes discarding the shawl, and borrowing a pocket-handkerchief among the audience for the production of the last bowl.

The performer steps forward with a shawl in his hand, which he spreads out and shows on both sides to confirm (as is truly the case) that there’s nothing hidden. Once the audience is assured of this, and while the orchestra plays the “Ghost Melody” or another fitting tune, he swings the shawl in sync with the music, eventually tossing it over his left shoulder and arm, which he holds straight in front of him. The arm then gradually lowers, and the shape of a solid object becomes visible under the shawl, which, when lifted, reveals a glass bowl filled with water and goldfish swimming inside. This is done a second and a third time, with the performer occasionally tossing aside the shawl and borrowing a handkerchief from someone in the audience to create the last bowl.

The bowls used are saucer-shaped, measuring six to eight inches in diameter, and one and a half to two inches in depth. Each is closed by an india-rubber cover, after the manner of the tumbler in the last trick. Thus secured, they are concealed about the person of the performer. The precise mode of concealment varies a little. Where three bowls are to be produced, one is generally carried beneath the coat-tails, in a sort of bag open at the sides, suspended from the waist, and the other two in pockets, opening perpendicularly, inside the breast of the coat or waistcoat, one on each side.

The bowls used are shaped like saucers, measuring six to eight inches in diameter and one and a half to two inches deep. Each one is covered with a rubber lid, similar to the tumbler in the last trick. Once secured, they are hidden on the performer’s body. The exact method of hiding them varies slightly. When three bowls are to be produced, one is usually kept under the coat-tails in a kind of bag that’s open on the sides and hangs from the waist, while the other two are stored in pockets that open vertically inside the breast of the coat or waistcoat, one on each side.

Sometimes, by way of variation, bowls of fire are produced. The bowls are in this case of thin brass. They have no covers, but the inflammable material (tow moistened with spirits of wine) is kept in position by wires crossing the bowl at about half its depth, and is ignited by a wax match, struck against the inside of the bowl under372 cover of the shawl and immediately dropped into the bowl, when the contents instantly burst into a blaze. Some bowls have a mechanical arrangement for igniting the tow, but we ourselves much prefer the simple bowls above described.

Sometimes, for a change, bowls of fire are created. These bowls are made of thin brass. They don’t have covers, but the flammable material (tow soaked in spirits of wine) is held in place by wires that cross the bowl about halfway down, and it's ignited with a wax match, which is struck against the inside of the bowl under372 the shawl and then immediately dropped into the bowl, causing the contents to ignite instantly. Some bowls have a mechanical setup for lighting the tow, but we personally prefer the simple bowls described above.

It was originally the practice to throw the shawl over a small round table, immediately removing it, and exhibiting the bowl upon the table. Modern performers discard the table, and produce the bowls in the midst of the audience.

It used to be common to drape the shawl over a small round table, quickly take it away, and show the bowl on the table. Nowadays, performers skip the table and bring the bowls out in the middle of the audience.

The Bowl of Ink changed to clear Water, with Gold Fish Swimming in it.—The performer brings forward a goblet-shaped glass vase, six or eight inches in height, nearly full of ink. To prove that the ink is genuine, he dips a playing-card into it, and brings it up with the lower half stained a deep black. Next, taking a ladle, he ladles out a portion of the liquid, and pours it on a plate, which is handed round for inspection. He next borrows a handkerchief from one of the audience, and covering the vase with it, announces that, by the exercise of his magic power, he will transform the ink in the vase to water. On removing the handkerchief, this transformation is found to be accomplished, while a couple of gold fish, placidly swimming about in the bowl, sufficiently prove that the trick is not performed, as might be imagined, by means of some chemical reagent.

The Bowl of Ink transformed into clear Water, with Gold Fish swimming in it.—The performer presents a goblet-shaped glass vase, six or eight inches tall, nearly filled with ink. To show that the ink is real, he dips a playing card into it and pulls it out with the lower half stained a deep black. Then, using a ladle, he scoops out some of the liquid and pours it onto a plate, which is passed around for inspection. Next, he borrows a handkerchief from someone in the audience and, covering the vase with it, announces that he will use his magic to change the ink in the vase into water. When he removes the handkerchief, the transformation is complete, and a couple of goldfish are peacefully swimming in the bowl, clearly proving that the trick wasn’t done with any kind of chemical.

The explanation, though by no means obvious, is very simple. The liquid in the vase is plain water; but a bottomless black silk lining, fitting the vase, and kept in shape by a wire ring round its upper edge, gives it the appearance of ink to a spectator at a little distance. In removing the handkerchief, the performer clips with it the wire ring, bringing away the lining within the handkerchief, and revealing the clear water in the glass.

The explanation, while not immediately clear, is actually quite simple. The liquid in the vase is just plain water; however, a bottomless black silk lining that fits the vase and is held in shape by a wire ring around the top gives it the look of ink to someone watching from a distance. When the performer takes away the handkerchief, they also snip the wire ring, pulling out the lining along with the handkerchief and showing the clear water in the glass.

But the reader will naturally inquire, “How, then, are the blackened card and the genuine ink ladled out on the plate accounted for?”

But the reader will naturally ask, “So, how do we explain the blackened card and the real ink poured out on the plate?”

Fig. 204.

The blackened card, though apparently an ordinary one, has the same figure, say a knave of diamonds, on both its sides; but the lower half of the one side is beforehand stained with ink. The performer dips it in with the unsoiled side toward the audience; but373 giving it a half-turn as he removes it, thereby brings the blackened side in front. The ink poured on the plate is accounted for with equal simplicity. The ladle (see Fig. 204) is of tin, having a hollow handle of the same metal, with a minute hole opening therefrom into the bowl. There is a similar small hole near to the top of the handle. The bowl is beforehand filled with ink, which is thence allowed to run into the handle; after which the upper hole is stopped with a little pellet of wax, or a small piece of paper is pasted over it. By reason of a well-known natural law, the liquid will not run out of the lower hole until the upper one is opened. As the performer dips the ladle apparently into the ink in the bowl, he scrapes off with his nail the wax or paper with which the upper hole is stopped, and the ink immediately runs into the bowl, whence it is poured upon the plate.

The blackened card, which seems like an ordinary one, has the same figure, like a jack of diamonds, on both sides; however, the bottom half of one side is pre-stained with ink. The performer dips it in with the clean side facing the audience; but by giving it a half-turn as he takes it out, he shows the blackened side in front. The ink poured onto the plate is explained just as easily. The ladle (see Fig. 204) is made of tin and has a hollow handle of the same metal with a tiny hole that leads into the bowl. There’s another small hole near the top of the handle. The bowl is pre-filled with ink, which then trickles into the handle; afterward, the upper hole is sealed with a small wad of wax or a little piece of paper. Because of a well-known natural law, the liquid won’t flow out of the lower hole until the upper one is opened. As the performer dips the ladle into the ink in the bowl, he scrapes off the wax or paper blocking the upper hole with his fingernail, and the ink immediately flows into the bowl, from which it is then poured onto the plate.

Fig. 205.

The Inexhaustible Bottle.—The same natural principle which prevents the ink from flowing into the bowl of the ladle until the upper hole is opened, is the basis of this old but still popular trick. The inexhaustible bottle, though in appearance an ordinary glass bottle, is in reality of tin, japanned black. Internally it is divided into three, four, or five separate compartments, ranged round a central space, and each tapering to a narrow-mouthed tube, which terminates about an inch within the neck of the bottle. A small pinhole is drilled through the outer surface of the bottle into each compartment, the374 holes being so placed that when the bottle is grasped by the hand in the ordinary way (see Fig. 205), each hole may be covered by one or other of the fingers or thumb. The central space is left empty, but the surrounding compartments are filled, by means of a funnel with a very tapering nozzle, with the wines or liquids expected to be most in demand, or to which it is intended to limit the spectators’ choice. A tray full of glasses, made specially of very thick glass, so as to contain in reality much less than they appear to do, completes the apparatus.

The Endless Bottle.—The same natural principle that keeps the ink from flowing into the bowl of the ladle until the top hole is opened is the foundation of this old but still popular trick. The inexhaustible bottle, while looking like an ordinary glass bottle, is actually made of tin, coated in black paint. Inside, it is divided into three, four, or five separate compartments arranged around a central space, and each tapers to a narrow tube that ends about an inch within the neck of the bottle. A small pinhole is drilled through the surface of the bottle into each compartment, with the holes positioned so that when the bottle is held in the usual way (see Fig. 205), each hole can be covered by one of the fingers or thumb. The central space is left empty, but the surrounding compartments are filled, using a funnel with a very narrow nozzle, with the wines or liquids that are expected to be in high demand or that the performer intends to limit the spectators’ choice to. A tray filled with glasses, specially made from very thick glass to actually hold much less than they appear to, completes the setup.

The performer comes forward with the magic bottle, followed by an attendant bearing the tray of glasses. He commences by openly pouring water into the bottle, and out again, so as indirectly to raise the inference that the bottle must be perfectly empty. The water, in truth, really passes into the centre space only, and thence runs out again as soon as the bottle is tilted. The fingers, meanwhile, are tightly pressed on the different holes, and thus excluding the air, effectually prevent any premature flow of wine from the various compartments. The performer, still holding the bottle mouth downwards, says, “You observe, ladies and gentlemen, that the bottle is now perfectly empty, and yet, by my magic art, I shall compel it to refill itself for your benefit.” He then, addressing various individuals, asks each whether he prefers port, sherry, gin, etc., and when the answer is given, has only to raise the finger stopping the air-hole of that particular compartment to cause the liquid named to flow from the bottle, stopping as soon as the finger is again pressed on the hole. It is a good plan, in order to prevent confusion, to place the liquors in the bottle in alphabetical order, commencing from the hole stopped by the thumb. Some performers increase the variety of the liquors produced, by placing beforehand in certain of the glasses a few drops of various flavouring essences. By this means a compartment filled with plain spirits of wine may be made to do duty for brandy, whiskey, etc., at pleasure, according to the glass into which the liquid is poured.

The performer steps forward with a magic bottle, followed by an assistant carrying a tray of glasses. He starts by visibly pouring water into the bottle and then out again, indirectly suggesting that the bottle must be completely empty. In reality, the water only fills the center space, and it runs out as soon as the bottle is tilted. Meanwhile, his fingers are pressed tightly on the different holes, keeping out the air and preventing any premature flow of wine from the compartments. Holding the bottle upside down, he says, “You can see, ladies and gentlemen, that the bottle is now completely empty, and yet, through my magic, I will make it refill itself for your enjoyment.” He then asks different individuals if they prefer port, sherry, gin, etc., and once he gets a response, he simply lifts his finger from the air-hole of the respective compartment to let the specified liquid flow from the bottle, stopping the flow as soon as he presses his finger back on the hole. To avoid confusion, it's a good idea to arrange the liquors in alphabetical order inside the bottle, starting from the hole controlled by his thumb. Some performers enhance the variety of liquids produced by placing a few drops of flavoring essences in certain glasses beforehand. This way, a compartment filled with plain spirits can be made to represent brandy, whiskey, etc., depending on which glass the liquid is poured into.

Fig. 206.

The trick is sometimes elaborated by the performer, by way of conclusion, apparently breaking the bottle, and producing therefrom a borrowed handkerchief or other article which has been made to disappear in some previous trick. This is effected by means of an375 additional speciality in the construction of the bottle. The compartments containing the liquids in this case terminate a couple of inches above the bottom of the bottle, and the part below this, which has a wavy edge, like fractured glass, is made to slip on and off. (See Fig. 206.) The performer, having produced the wines, pretends to crack the bottle all round by rapping it with his wand, and, having apparently cracked it, pulls the bottom off, and exhibits the handkerchief, which was beforehand placed in readiness therein. The two parts of the bottle joining with great nicety, there is little fear that the pretended crack will prematurely attract attention.

The trick is sometimes expanded by the performer as a conclusion, seemingly breaking the bottle and revealing a borrowed handkerchief or another item that had disappeared in a previous trick. This is done through an375 extra feature in the bottle's design. The compartments containing the liquids end a couple of inches above the bottle's bottom, and the section below, which has a wavy edge that looks like broken glass, can slide on and off. (See Fig. 206.) After producing the wines, the performer pretends to crack the bottle all around by tapping it with his wand. Once he creates the illusion of cracking it, he removes the bottom and shows the handkerchief, which was prepped and hidden inside. Since the two parts of the bottle fit together very precisely, there's little chance that the fake crack will draw attention prematurely.

Where the trick is performed before a very large audience, a single bottle would not contain sufficient liquor to answer all the demands upon it. In this case it is necessary to change the bottle, sometimes more than once in the course of the trick. This is most frequently done under cover of a chair or table; but where the trick is performed on the stage, a more elaborate expedient is sometimes employed. The bottle used has in this case an outer shell or casing of tin, open at the bottom, the actual receptacle for the liquids being within this. When the bottle is exhausted, the performer with apparent carelessness places it upon a small table, standing against the side scene, pending the arrival of more glasses, or under any other convenient pretext. The bottle is, in truth, placed immediately over a small round trap, the performer being guided as to its proper position by a couple of small pins projecting upwards from the surface of the table, against which pins he pushes the bottle. The moment it is so placed, the assistant behind the scenes, who has his eye to a hole in the partition, and his arm extended within the table, opens the trap, pulls down the empty interior of the bottle, and instantly replaces it with a full one, which he holds in readiness, and at the moment when the performer again grasps the bottle to continue the trick (and thereby furnishes the necessary resistance), pushes it sharply up into its place.

When the trick is performed in front of a large audience, a single bottle wouldn’t hold enough liquor to meet all the demands. In this case, it’s necessary to swap out the bottle, sometimes more than once during the trick. This is usually done discreetly behind a chair or table; however, when the trick is staged, a more elaborate method is sometimes used. The bottle has an outer shell or casing made of tin, which is open at the bottom, with the actual container for the liquids inside. When the bottle runs out, the performer casually places it on a small table against the side of the stage while waiting for more glasses or under some other convenient excuse. In reality, the bottle is positioned over a small round trap, with the performer guided by a couple of small pins sticking up from the tabletop, which he pushes the bottle against. As soon as it’s in place, the assistant behind the scenes, who is watching through a hole in the partition and has his arm reaching into the table, opens the trap, pulls down the empty interior of the bottle, and quickly replaces it with a full one that he has ready. At the moment the performer grabs the bottle again to continue the trick (which provides the necessary resistance), the assistant pushes it firmly back into position.

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Fig. 207. Fig. 208.

The Bottle and Ribbons.—This is another favourite bottle trick. The bottle is in this case also of tin, with an enclosed space round the sides to contain wine, commencing about an inch and a half from the lower end, and terminating just within the mouth. (See Fig. 207.) The bottle has no bottom, and there is thus a passage, in the shape of an inverted funnel, extending through its whole length. A cylindrical base or stopper (see Fig. 208) just fits into the space at the bottom of the bottle, and on this are fixed six or eight small reels or bobbins. On each of these is wound a yard or so of ribbon, each of a different colour. An upright wire rod springs from the centre of this base, terminating just within the neck of the bottle in a little flat piece of metal, perforated with as many holes as there are ribbons; and one end of each of the ribbons is brought up through one of these holes, and a little knot made upon it to prevent its slipping back again.

The Bottle and Ribbons.—This is another popular bottle trick. In this case, the bottle is also made of tin, featuring a space along the sides to hold wine, starting about an inch and a half from the bottom and ending just below the mouth. (See Fig. 207.) The bottle doesn’t have a bottom, creating a pathway in the shape of an inverted funnel that runs the entire length. A cylindrical base or stopper (see Fig. 208) fits perfectly into the space at the bottom of the bottle, and on this, six or eight small reels or bobbins are attached. Each of these has about a yard of ribbon wrapped around it, each in a different color. An upright wire rod extends from the center of this base, ending just inside the neck of the bottle with a flat piece of metal, which has as many holes as there are ribbons. One end of each ribbon is threaded through one of these holes, with a small knot tied to prevent it from slipping back down.

The ribbons being in position, and the space in the bottle duly filled with wine, the performer brings it forward, and, after pouring out a glass or two, asks some lady present which is her favourite colour, and on receiving an answer, gently taps the bottle with his wand, and immediately draws out with the tip of his forefinger from the neck, and presents to her, a ribbon of the desired colour. More wine is produced, alternately with fresh ribbons, until all are exhausted.

The ribbons are in place, and the bottle is filled with wine. The performer brings it forward, pours out a glass or two, and asks a lady present what her favorite color is. After getting her answer, he taps the bottle gently with his wand and then pulls out a ribbon of that color with the tip of his forefinger from the neck of the bottle before presenting it to her. More wine is served along with fresh ribbons until they’re all used up.

The above is the drawing-room form of the trick. Upon the stage, it is slightly varied. The same kind of bottle is used, but the internal provision of reels and ribbons is removed, so that the bottle remains a simple tin bottle, open at the bottom, with the funnel-shaped passage already mentioned extending through its entire length. The performer, having poured out a glass or two of wine, places the bottle on a stool or table, through the pillar of which is a hole or passage communicating with a corresponding hole in the stage. Beneath377 this is stationed the performer’s assistant, who is provided with a large number of various coloured ribbons, and a thin rod of three or four feet in length, with a small point or blunt pin at the top. The performer takes care always to repeat in an audible voice the name of the colour called for. This is a signal to the assistant to hitch one end of the ribbon in question on the top of the rod, and hold it in readiness beneath the stage. He does not, however, push it up through the bottle until warned by the sound of the tap of the wand on the bottle that the performer is ready to receive it. The performer, on his part, takes care, before tapping the bottle, to place his thumb upon the mouth, so as to prevent the rod passing too far. Sometimes a combination of colours is asked for, as, for instance, the tricolour, or any other national group of colours.

The above describes the drawing-room version of the trick. On stage, it’s a bit different. The same type of bottle is used, but the internal setup of reels and ribbons is taken out, so the bottle is just a simple tin bottle, open at the bottom, with the funnel-shaped opening mentioned earlier running through its entire length. After pouring out a glass or two of wine, the performer places the bottle on a stool or table, which has a hole or passage that connects with a matching hole in the stage. Below this, there’s an assistant who has a lot of different colored ribbons and a thin rod that’s three or four feet long, with a small point or blunt pin at the top. The performer always makes sure to clearly say the name of the color being requested. This signals the assistant to attach one end of the chosen ribbon to the top of the rod and get it ready beneath the stage. However, he doesn’t push it up through the bottle until he hears the tap of the wand on the bottle, which indicates the performer is ready to receive it. Before tapping the bottle, the performer makes sure to put his thumb over the mouth to stop the rod from going too far up. Sometimes a mix of colors is requested, like the tricolor or any other national color scheme.

Alter having produced a reasonable number of ribbons, an effective finish may be made as follows:—A last colour or combination of colours having been demanded, the performer does not draw the ribbons, as hitherto, completely out of the bottle, but leaves them hanging down loosely on each side of it. He now announces that, at the word of command, the ribbons shall, of their own accord, return into the bottle. The assistant takes his cue accordingly, and at the third tap of the wand draws the ribbons smartly down again; their instantaneous disappearance within the bottle being exceedingly effective.

After producing a good number of ribbons, a great finish can be achieved as follows: When a final color or combination of colors is requested, the performer doesn't pull the ribbons completely out of the bottle like before, but lets them hang loosely on each side. They then announce that at the command, the ribbons will, of their own accord, go back into the bottle. The assistant takes their cue, and at the third tap of the wand, pulls the ribbons smartly down again; their quick disappearance inside the bottle is very impressive.

The New Pyramids of Egypt, or the Wine and Water Trick.—This trick may be very well worked in conjunction with either of the bottle tricks already described, and we therefore notice it in this place. Its effect is as follows:—The performer pours out a glass of wine and a glass of water, finally transferring both to a small decanter. Placing the decanter on a small round stand, and the empty glasses on similar stands on either side of it, he covers each with a pyramidal cover, and announces that at his command the mixed wine and water will again separate, and pass into the empty glasses, the spectators being allowed to choose into which of the glasses each element shall pass. The choice having been made, he fastens a tape or ribbon to the centre pyramid, and thence to each of the side ones, giving the audience to understand that, by a mysterious kind of378 capillary attraction, the wine and water will travel along this ribbon to their respective destinations. A few moments having elapsed, the ribbons are untied and the covers removed. The decanter is found to be empty, and the wine and water to have respectively returned to the glasses designated by the audience.

The New Pyramids of Egypt, or the Wine and Water Trick.—This trick works really well with either of the bottle tricks we've already discussed, so we’re mentioning it here. The effect is as follows: The performer pours a glass of wine and a glass of water, finally pouring both into a small decanter. He places the decanter on a small round stand and puts the empty glasses on similar stands on either side of it. Then, he covers each with a pyramid-shaped cover and announces that at his command, the mixed wine and water will separate again and move into the empty glasses, allowing the audience to choose into which glass each liquid will go. Once the choices are made, he attaches a tape or ribbon to the center pyramid and connects it to each of the side ones, suggesting to the audience that, through a mysterious kind of 378 capillary attraction, the wine and water will travel along this ribbon to their chosen places. After a moment, the ribbons are untied, and the covers are removed. The decanter is found to be empty, and the wine and water have respectively returned to the glasses chosen by the audience.

Fig. 209.

The glasses used have no speciality, but the decanter has a small hole in its under side. This is plugged with a pellet of wax, which, however, is instantly removeable at pleasure. Of the three stands, two (those on which the glasses stand) have no preparation, being mere raised shapes of tin. The third is similar in appearance, but is, in fact, a hollow box, with three or four little holes drilled in its upper side, for a purpose that will presently appear. Of the three covers, the centre one is hollow throughout, but the other two have each its upper portion occupied by a hollow chamber or reservoir, divided in two by a vertical partition, and tapering down to a tube with a very small opening. Each of these compartments has an air-hole at the top. (See Fig. 209.)

The glasses used are nothing special, but the decanter has a small hole in its underside. This hole is sealed with a piece of wax that can easily be removed when needed. Of the three stands, two (the ones where the glasses sit) don't have any special features and are simply raised shapes made of tin. The third looks similar, but it’s actually a hollow box with three or four small holes drilled in the top for a purpose that will soon be revealed. Of the three covers, the middle one is completely hollow, while the other two each have their top part filled with a hollow chamber or reservoir, divided in the middle by a vertical wall and tapering down to a tube with a very small opening. Each of these compartments also has an air hole at the top. (See Fig. 209.)

These two covers are beforehand prepared for the trick by filling the two compartments of each, one with wine, and the other with water. The air-holes are stopped with pellets of wax, but for the sake of distinction the “wine” compartment of each is plugged with red wax, and the “water” compartment with white wax. Any other distinguishing mark is, of course, equally good. So long as the air-holes are thus stopped, there is no fear of the liquid running out. The performer, having filled the glasses as already described, mixes the contents in the decanter, and in placing the latter on the stand, removes the wax plug from the bottom, thus allowing the wine to run out, and to percolate through the above-mentioned holes into the379 stand, where it remains. He next places the empty glasses on their respective stands, and places the covers over them. He then asks the audience into which of the glasses they desire that the wine shall travel, and into which the water. When they have made their decision, he has only to remove the red pellet from the cover which is over the glass into which the wine is to pass, and the white pellet from the opposite cover. The tying of the tape from cover to cover is merely designed to give time for the liquids to reach their respective destinations, and is, indeed, altogether dispensed with by many performers. The air-holes may be stopped by means of tinfoil pasted over them, instead of the wax, if preferred. The foil is instantly removeable by scraping with the nail.

These two covers are prepped for the trick by filling each of their two compartments—one with wine and the other with water. The air holes are sealed with wax pellets, but to tell them apart, the “wine” compartment of each is sealed with red wax, and the “water” compartment with white wax. Any other distinguishing mark would work just as well. As long as the air holes are sealed this way, there’s no risk of liquid spilling out. The performer, after filling the glasses as described, mixes the contents in the decanter, and when placing it on the stand, removes the wax plug from the bottom, allowing the wine to pour out and seep through the previously mentioned holes into the379 stand, where it stays. Next, he puts the empty glasses on their respective stands and covers them. He then asks the audience which glass they want the wine to go into and which one for the water. After they decide, he just has to remove the red pellet from the cover over the glass that will get the wine, and the white pellet from the cover over the glass that will get the water. The tying of the tape between covers is just meant to give the liquids time to reach their destinations and is actually skipped by many performers. If preferred, the air holes can also be covered with tinfoil instead of wax, which can be easily removed by scraping with a nail.

Fig. 210.

The Mysterious Funnel.—This is a little appliance on the same principle, which may be incidentally introduced with good effect in the course of a wine trick. It is a tin funnel, made double throughout, with a space of half-an-inch or so between its inner and outer sides. It is, in fact, a funnel within a funnel, joined at the upper edges. (See Fig. 210.) It has an air-hole, a, generally on the under side of the handle. When required for use, the hidden space is filled with wine. The simplest way of doing this is to stop the spout of the funnel with the finger, and then to fill it with wine, which, seeking its own level, will gradually rise to the same height in the outer space as it stands at inside the funnel. This must, of course, be done with the air-hole open. When the space is filled, the air-hole is stopped, and the wine remaining inside the funnel allowed to run out. The funnel will now appear perfectly empty, and may be used as a funnel in the ordinary way.

The Mysterious Funnel.—This is a small device based on the same principle, which can be effectively used during a wine trick. It’s a tin funnel made with a double layer, creating a gap of about half an inch between the inner and outer sides. Essentially, it’s a funnel within another funnel, connected at the top edges. (See Fig. 210.) There’s an air hole, a, usually located on the underside of the handle. When it’s time to use it, the hidden space gets filled with wine. The easiest way to do this is by blocking the spout with your finger, filling the funnel with wine, which will rise to the same level in the outer space as it does inside the funnel. This needs to be done while keeping the air hole open. Once the space is filled, the air hole is blocked, and the wine left inside the funnel is allowed to pour out. The funnel will then look completely empty and can be used like a regular funnel.

The mode of using the funnel is somewhat after the following manner, subject, of course, to variation, according to the taste and invention of the performer:—

The way to use the funnel is generally like this, but it can change based on the preferences and creativity of the artist:—

A juvenile is invited to take a glass of wine, the produce of either of the preceding tricks. When he has imbibed it, the performer380 asks a second juvenile whether he would like a glass also. The reply is pretty sure to be in the affirmative, but the performer pretends to find, when about to oblige him, that his store is exhausted. He begins to apologize for the supposed disappointment, but as if suddenly bethinking himself, says, “However, you shan’t be disappointed. If I can’t supply you in the natural way, I must do so in a supernatural way. Suppose we take back the wine this young gentleman has just drunk. I don’t suppose it will be any the worse. Let me see, where is my magic funnel. Oh, here it is. Let us make sure first that it is quite clean.” He pours water through it, and then holds it up to the light in such a manner that the audience can see right through, thus indirectly showing them that it is empty. “Now, sir” (addressing the youngster who has drunk the glass of wine), “I am going to take back that glass of wine. Be kind enough to bend your elbow, and hold it over the mouth of the funnel, so. And you, sir” (addressing the expectant), “perhaps you will be kind enough to take this young gentleman’s other arm, and work it gently up and down. In fact, we are going to transform him into a pump. Now, sir.” The performer holds the glass under the funnel, and as soon as the pretended pumping begins, opens the air-hole, when the wine runs into the glass, and is handed to the second young gentleman as a reward for his exertions.

A young person is invited to have a glass of wine, which comes from one of the previous tricks. After drinking it, the performer380 asks another young person if he would like a glass too. The answer is likely to be yes, but the performer pretends to realize that he has run out. He starts to apologize for the supposed letdown but then suddenly remembers, “Well, you won’t be disappointed. If I can’t provide it the usual way, I’ll do it in a magical way. Let’s take back the wine this young man just drank. I don’t think it will hurt. Let me check; where’s my magic funnel? Ah, here it is. First, let’s make sure it’s completely clean.” He pours water through it and then holds it up to the light, so the audience can see through it, showing that it’s empty. “Now, sir” (addressing the boy who drank the wine), “I’m going to take back that glass of wine. Please bend your elbow and hold it over the funnel like this. And you, sir” (addressing the one who is waiting), “could you please take this young man’s other arm and move it gently up and down? We’re going to turn him into a pump. Now, sir.” The performer positions the glass under the funnel, and as the pretend pumping starts, he opens the air hole, allowing the wine to flow into the glass, which is then handed to the second young person as a reward for his efforts.

Acted with spirit, this little interlude is sure of an uproarious reception from the juvenile portion of the audience, particularly if the operator possesses the magic bradawl described at page 332, and makes use of it to bore a small hole in the victim’s elbow before beginning to pump the wine from it.

Acting with enthusiasm, this brief scene is guaranteed to get a wild reaction from the younger members of the audience, especially if the performer has the special tool mentioned on page 332 and uses it to create a small hole in the victim’s elbow before starting to draw out the wine.

Fig. 211.

The Box of Bran transformed to a Bottle of Wine.—While upon the subject of wine tricks we may mention this, which is by no means the least surprising of the illusions to which “the bottle” gives birth. The necessary apparatus consists of four pieces. First, a plain cylindrical tin box A (see Fig. 211), japanned to taste, and about six inches high by three in diameter. Secondly, B, a similar box, so far as external appearance is concerned, but materially different in its internal construction. This latter is bottomless, but has a horizontal tin partition at about three-quarters of an inch from381 the top. These two boxes have but one lid, which fits either indifferently. The third article is a cylindrical pasteboard cover (Fig. 212), closed at the top, and of such a size as to fit loosely over B, but an inch or two taller. The fourth item is a bottle, made of tin, japanned black, and of somewhat peculiar construction. (See Fig. 213.) As a measure of capacity, it terminates just below the shoulder, the remainder, or body of the bottle, being, in fact, merely a tube closed at the bottom, in which this upper portion works. A spiral spring within the body presses the neck portion upward into its proper position; but if pressure be applied, the neck portion will sink downward into the body, as shown in Fig. 214, in which condition it just fits into B. A small point projects from the lower part of the bottle, and corresponds with a bayonet catch at the bottom of B, which is in fact designed as a case or cover for the bottle.

The Box of Bran changed into a Bottle of Wine.—While discussing wine tricks, we should mention this one, which is certainly one of the most surprising illusions related to “the bottle.” The setup requires four pieces. First, a plain cylindrical tin box A (see Fig. 211), painted to look nice, about six inches tall and three inches in diameter. Second, B, a similar box in terms of its exterior appearance, but significantly different in its internal design. This one is bottomless but has a horizontal tin partition situated about three-quarters of an inch from the top. These two boxes share a single lid that fits either one without preference. The third item is a cylindrical pasteboard cover (Fig. 212), closed at the top, designed to fit loosely over B but is an inch or two taller. The fourth piece is a black-coated tin bottle, with a somewhat unique construction. (See Fig. 213.) In terms of capacity, it ends just below the shoulder; the rest of the bottle is essentially just a tube closed at the bottom, allowing the upper part to move inside it. A spiral spring within the body pushes the neck part upward into its correct position; however, if pressure is applied, the neck part will sink down into the body, as demonstrated in Fig. 214, where it fits perfectly into B. A small point protrudes from the lower part of the bottle and corresponds with a bayonet catch at the bottom of B, which is essentially designed to serve as a case or cover for the bottle.

Fig. 212.
Fig. 213.
Fig. 214.

For the performance of the trick the operator will require, in addition to the apparatus above mentioned, an oblong deal box, half full of bran. (Rice is sometimes used, but is not so good.) Any box will answer the purpose, so long as it is not less than fifteen inches or so in length, and nine in breadth and depth. In preparing for the trick, the first step is to fill the bottle, or the “fillable” portion thereof, with wine or some other liquid. The bottle is then corked; B is placed over it and pressed down, and the bayonet-catch fastened. In this condition, but without a lid, B is placed in the deal box, and buried in the bran. The box of bran being now brought forward and placed on the table, the performer is ready to begin the trick. He first draws attention to A, which he hands round for inspection, as also382 the pasteboard cover. When they are returned, he brings forward the box of bran, moving his hand backwards and forwards in it, and distributing a few handfuls to show its genuineness. Replacing the box on the table, he proceeds to fill A with bran. This he does by dipping A completely in the box, and scooping up the necessary quantity. As if to show all fair, he pours the bran out again into the box, and then makes a second dip to refill it. This time, however, he makes an exchange, and instead of bringing up A, brings up B, filling as he does so the shallow space at the top of the latter, which thus appears to be full to the brim. Placing it on the table, and putting the lid on, he places the pasteboard cover over it, and, addressing the company, volunteers to teach them how to extract wine from bran, and wine bottles from tin boxes. After a moment’s pause, and the orthodox touch with the wand, he removes the cover, giving it at the same time a slight twist, thus releasing the catch, and removing B within the cover. The spring within the bottle now meeting no resistance, presses the neck portion upwards into its proper position, with all the appearance of a genuine bottle; and as it, in its present condition, is considerably taller than B, it can hardly be suspected that it was a moment ago concealed in the latter, particularly as the performer immediately proceeds to give a further proof of its genuineness by pouring a glass of wine from it.

For the trick, the performer will need, in addition to the equipment mentioned earlier, a rectangular wooden box filled halfway with bran. (Rice can be used, but it’s not as effective.) Any box will work as long as it is at least fifteen inches long and nine inches wide and deep. To prepare for the trick, the first step is to fill the bottle, or the part that can be filled, with wine or another liquid. The bottle is then corked; B is placed over it and pressed down, and the bayonet catch is fastened. In this state, but without a lid, B is placed in the wooden box and buried in the bran. The box is then brought forward and placed on the table, making the performer ready to start the trick. He first draws attention to A, which he passes around for inspection, along with the pasteboard cover. When they come back, he brings out the box of bran, moving his hand back and forth in it and showing a few handfuls to prove it’s real. After putting the box back on the table, he fills A with bran by dipping it completely into the box and scooping up the required amount. To show that everything is fair, he pours the bran back into the box and then dips again to refill it. This time, however, he makes an exchange; instead of bringing up A, he brings up B, filling the shallow space at the top, which then looks full to the brim. He sets it on the table, puts the lid on, covers it with the pasteboard cover, and tells the audience he will teach them how to get wine from bran and wine bottles from tin boxes. After a brief pause and the usual touch with the wand, he removes the cover while giving it a slight twist, releasing the catch, and taking out B with the cover. The spring inside the bottle, now facing no resistance, pushes the neck part up into its proper position, looking just like a real bottle; and since it is noticeably taller than B in this condition, there’s little reason to suspect that it was just hidden inside it, especially as the performer immediately proves its authenticity by pouring a glass of wine from it.

In connection with the above trick we may describe another useful piece of apparatus, known as

In relation to the trick mentioned above, we can describe another useful tool, known as

The Bran Bottle.—This is a bottle, which, being covered over for an instant, vanishes, leaving in its place a heap of bran. The bottle is, like that last described, of tin, with a false bottom or partition, about an inch below the shoulder, so that it holds about a glassful of wine. The place of the ordinary bottom is supplied by a disc of tin, with a raised shoulder round it, fitting loosely within the383 bottle, so as to drop out by its own weight, unless kept in place by some external pressure. The cover is a mere cylinder of pasteboard, closed at the top. The bottle is prepared for use by filling the lower portion with bran, and putting the bottom in place (where it is retained by the pressure of the fingers), then filling the upper part with wine. The performer first pours wine from the bottle, and then places it on a plate, ostensibly to show that it does not pass through any opening in the table, but really for a reason which will presently appear. He now places the cover over the bottle, and on again lifting it presses the sides slightly, and so lifts the bottle with it. The loose bottom, having no longer anything to hold it, remains on the plate, concealed by the bran which pours from the bottle, and into which the bottle is apparently transformed. Meanwhile, all eyes being drawn to the heap of bran, the performer lowers his hand, containing the cover, for an instant behind the table, and relaxing the pressure of his fingers, lets the bottle slip out on the servante, immediately coming forward with the cover, and carelessly showing that it is empty.

The Bran Bottle.—This is a bottle that, when covered for a moment, disappears, leaving a pile of bran in its place. The bottle is made of tin, like the previous one described, and has a false bottom or partition about an inch below the shoulder, so it holds around a glassful of wine. Instead of a regular bottom, there's a disc of tin with a raised shoulder that fits loosely inside the383 bottle, ready to drop out by its own weight unless held in place by some external pressure. The cover is simply a cylinder of cardboard, closed at the top. To get it ready for use, you fill the lower part with bran, put in the bottom (which stays in place thanks to finger pressure), and then fill the top section with wine. The performer pours wine from the bottle and places it on a plate, claiming it's to show that it doesn't pass through any openings in the table, but really for a reason that will become clear. Next, he puts the cover over the bottle and, when he lifts it again, he presses the sides slightly so it lifts the bottle with it. The loose bottom, no longer held, remains on the plate, hidden by the bran pouring from the bottle, into which the bottle seems to transform. While everyone's attention is on the pile of bran, the performer quickly lowers his hand, holding the cover, behind the table and loosens his grip, allowing the bottle to slip onto the servante, then he comes forward with the cover, casually showing that it’s empty.

In combination with the Bran Bottle, the trick last above described is greatly heightened in effect, the bottle appearing under the cover which has just been placed over the tin box—the bran from the latter being found under the cover which a moment previously concealed the bottle, and the tin box being found to have passed into the large box of bran. The Bran Bottle may also be worked with great effect in combination with the trick of the “Bran and Orange,” described at page 335.

In combination with the Bran Bottle, the trick described above becomes even more impressive, as the bottle appears under the cover that was just placed over the tin box—the bran from the tin box is found under the cover that previously hid the bottle, and the tin box is discovered to have moved into the large box of bran. The Bran Bottle can also be used effectively alongside the "Bran and Orange" trick, described on page 335.

Fig. 215.
Fig. 216.

The Bran Glass.—This is an ingenious and very useful piece of apparatus. It is made in all sizes, from that of an ordinary wine-glass to a goblet large enough to hold a rabbit. Its effect is as follows:—The glass is brought forward apparently filled with bran to the brim. The performer proves its genuineness by taking up a handful of it, and scattering it over the stage. A brass cover is now placed over the glass, and instantly removed, when every particle of bran is found to have disappeared, and in place of it is found some article which had been conjured away at some earlier period of the trick. The explanation is very simple. The glass is shaped as384 shown in Fig. 215, with straight sides, tapering outwards. The supposed bran is really a hollow shape of tin, a, closed at the top, but open at the bottom, with bran gummed all over it, and a handful of loose bran spread on the top. At each side of its upper edge is a little wire point, just overpassing the edge of the glass. The cover (see Fig. 216), which is of such a size as to cover the glass as far as the upper part of its stem, has no speciality about it, save a shallow groove running round its upper edge on the inside, as shown by the dotted line. When the cover is placed on the glass, and pressed smartly down, the two points already mentioned are forced into this groove, which thus grips the tin shape, and when again removed, lifts it out of the glass, leaving behind whatever article may have been beforehand placed within.

The Bran Glass.—This is a clever and very useful device. It comes in various sizes, from a standard wine glass to a goblet big enough to hold a rabbit. Here's how it works: The glass is presented as being filled to the brim with bran. The performer verifies this by taking a handful of it and scattering it over the stage. A brass cover is then placed over the glass and quickly removed, revealing that every bit of bran has vanished, replaced by an object that had been magically taken away earlier in the trick. The explanation is quite straightforward. The glass is designed as384 shown in Fig. 215, with straight sides that flare outwards. The so-called bran is actually a hollow tin shape, a, sealed at the top but open at the bottom, coated in bran, with a handful of loose bran on top. There are small wire points on each side of the upper edge, slightly extending over the edge of the glass. The cover (see Fig. 216), which is sized to cover the glass up to the upper part of its stem, has no unique features aside from a shallow groove running along its inside upper edge, indicated by the dotted line. When the cover is pressed firmly onto the glass, the two points mentioned earlier are pushed into this groove, which secures the tin shape. When the cover is lifted off, it takes the tin shape with it, leaving behind whatever item was previously placed inside.

Where the bran glass is of large size, the metal cover is indispensable; but for glasses not exceeding the ordinary tumbler size, it is preferable to cover the glass with a borrowed handkerchief only, the hollow shape being in this case made, not of tin, but of thin cardboard. The two points are dispensed with, but in place of them there should be a piece of thread, in length about double the diameter of the glass, fastened from side to side of the shape. This, hanging down on the side of the glass which is toward the performer, is caught hold of through the handkerchief, and thus handkerchief and shape are lifted together.

Where the bran glass is large, a metal cover is essential; but for glasses that are no bigger than a regular tumbler, it's better to just cover the glass with a borrowed handkerchief. In this case, the hollow shape is made of thin cardboard instead of tin. The two points are not needed, but instead, there should be a piece of thread about twice the diameter of the glass, tied from side to side of the shape. This thread, hanging down on the side of the glass that faces the performer, can be grabbed through the handkerchief, allowing both the handkerchief and shape to be lifted together.

The Bran Glass may be made available in a variety of ways; the trick next following will afford a good practical illustration of its use.

The Bran Glass can be provided in different ways; the next trick will offer a practical example of how to use it.

Fig. 217.

To Fire Borrowed Rings from a Pistol, and make them385 Pass into a Goblet filled with Bran and covered with a Handkerchief, the Bran Disappearing, and being found elsewhere.—The glass used in this instance is of ordinary tumbler size. It is not brought forward as above, with the bran shape already in place, but empty, and may therefore be freely offered for inspection. With it is brought forward a wooden box, of any size and shape, filled with bran, and in this, ready to hand, is concealed the bran shape. We have already had occasion to describe the magic pistol, or rather pistol tube; but the tube used in this instance (see Fig. 217) has an additional peculiarity. It is of comparatively small size, being about two inches wide at the mouth. Within this mouth fits easily a tin cup, a, about an inch and three-quarters in depth, and having its edge turned over outwards all round, so as to afford a ready grip to the palm when it may be necessary to remove it. The pistol is beforehand loaded with powder, and the cup above described is placed in the mouth of the tube.

To shoot borrowed rings from a pistol and have them go into a goblet filled with bran, which is covered with a handkerchief, with the bran disappearing and later being found elsewhere.—The glass used here is a standard tumbler size. It isn't shown as described above, with the bran shape already in place, but is empty, allowing for easy inspection. Alongside it is a wooden box of any size and shape, filled with bran, which conceals the bran shape inside. We have previously described the magic pistol, or rather the pistol tube; however, the tube used in this case (see Fig. 217) has an additional feature. It is relatively small, about two inches wide at the opening. A tin cup, a, fits easily into this opening, measuring about an inch and three-quarters deep, with its edge turned outward all around for a better grip when it needs to be removed. The pistol is pre-loaded with powder, and the cup described above is placed at the mouth of the tube.

The performer begins by asking the loan of three rings, to be fired from his magic pistol. To preclude the possibility of their being exchanged, he requests the owners to drop them into the pistol themselves. First, however, by way of wad, he takes a small piece of white paper, and presses its centre portion into the mouth of the pistol tube, its edges projecting all round, and forming a sort of cup to receive the rings. Three rings having been offered, and dropped into the pistol, the performer closes over the edges of the paper, and presses them down with his wand, the effect being as if the rings were fairly rammed down into the pistol, though they really remain in the cup, just within the mouth. He now hands the pistol to one of the spectators, requesting him to hold it muzzle upwards above his head. In handing it to him, he places for a moment his own right hand over the mouth of the tube, his palm being flat upon it, and in again removing the hand lifts out and palms the cup (which the projecting edge enables him to do with perfect ease). He has thus386 obtained possession of the rings. (As the holder of the pistol has been instructed to hold it above his head, he is not very likely to look into it; but lest he should do so, and discover that the rings are already removed, it is well to place in the tube beforehand a piece of crumpled white paper, to represent that which contained the rings.)

The performer starts by asking to borrow three rings to shoot from his magic pistol. To ensure they can't be switched, he asks the owners to drop them into the pistol themselves. But first, he takes a small piece of white paper and presses the center part into the muzzle of the pistol, with the edges sticking out to form a little cup for the rings. After the three rings are offered and dropped into the pistol, he closes the edges of the paper and presses them down with his wand, making it look like the rings are pushed deep into the pistol, although they actually stay in the cup just inside the opening. He then hands the pistol to a spectator, asking him to hold it muzzle up above his head. While handing it over, he briefly places his right hand over the mouth of the tube, palm flat against it, and when he lifts his hand, he smoothly palms the cup (which the protruding edge makes easy to do). He has now secretly taken the rings. (Since the person holding the pistol has been asked to keep it above his head, he’s not likely to look inside, but to be safe, it’s a good idea to pre-place a piece of crumpled white paper in the tube to simulate the one that held the rings.)

The performer now hands round the glass for examination, and subsequently draws attention to the box of bran. While doing this he has little difficulty in getting the rings out of the cup and paper into his right hand. He then, holding the glass in his left hand, dips it into the box, and fills it with bran, which he forthwith pours slowly back again to prove its genuineness. Meanwhile, his right hand is engaged in fishing up the bran shape among the bran, placing it mouth upwards in the box, and dropping the rings into it. When he again dips the glass into the box, he slips it mouth downwards over the shape, immediately turning it into the natural position, and bringing it up, to all appearance, full of bran. As the rings were in the shape, they are, of course, now in the glass. He brushes the loose bran off the top, and then covers the glass with a borrowed handkerchief, taking particular notice on which side hangs the loop of thread. The person holding the pistol is now requested to take good aim, and fire at the glass. He does so, and the performer, lifting the handkerchief with the shape within it, lets the latter drop on the servante, and advancing with the glass, requests the owners to identify their rings.

The performer now passes the glass around for everyone to check, and then he points out the box of bran. While doing this, he easily grabs the rings from the cup and paper with his right hand. He then holds the glass in his left hand, dips it into the box, and fills it with bran, which he then slowly pours back out to show it’s real. Meanwhile, his right hand is busy retrieving the bran shape from the bran, placing it mouth-up in the box, and dropping the rings into it. When he dips the glass into the box again, he flips it upside down over the shape, quickly turning it right side up, and lifts it up, appearing as if it’s full of bran. Since the rings were in the shape, they are now in the glass. He brushes off the excess bran from the top, then covers the glass with a borrowed handkerchief, paying close attention to which side the thread loop hangs from. The person with the pistol is now asked to aim carefully and shoot at the glass. They do so, and the performer, lifting the handkerchief with the shape inside, lets it drop onto the servante, and approaches with the glass, asking the owners to identify their rings.

The trick may either end here, upon the supposition that the bran has been blown away altogether by the explosion, or the bran may be shown to have passed to some other place. There are numerous methods of effecting this latter transposition. For instance, the pea vase (see page 351), first shown empty, may be used, or the bran may be made to fall out of a second borrowed handkerchief, by means of the bag shown at page 248, or may be found in the apparatus next described.

The trick can either end here, assuming the bran has completely disappeared due to the explosion, or the bran might be revealed to have moved somewhere else. There are several ways to achieve this latter transition. For example, the pea vase (see page 351), initially shown empty, can be utilized, or the bran can be made to fall out of a second borrowed handkerchief, using the bag shown on page 248, or it may be discovered in the equipment described next.

Fig. 218.
Fig. 219.

The “Domino-Box” (sometimes called the “Glove-Box”).—This is a little oblong box of walnut or rosewood, measuring about four inches in length by two inches in width, and an inch and a quarter in depth. It has a sliding lid, drawing out in the ordinary manner, but the whole box has a tightly-fitting inner lining, which may be pulled out, drawer fashion, with the lid. (See Fig. 218.) It387 is used as follows:—Any small article, say a glove or a lady’s handkerchief, is secretly placed inside this inner lining. The performer exhibits the box to the company, and to show that it is empty, turns it over towards them, and draws the lid nearly out, drawing out with it at the same time the inner lining or drawer also. (See Fig. 219.) From the position of the box, the drawer is, at a very short distance, completely hidden by the lid. The box is, of course, seen to be perfectly empty. The performer now closes it, and turning its right side upwards, places it on the table. He then proceeds with the next stage of the trick, and at the right moment again opens the box, or invites some one else to do so. This time the lid alone is drawn out, and the hidden article is found in the box.

The "Domino Box" (sometimes referred to as the "Glove Box").—This is a small, rectangular box made of walnut or rosewood, measuring about four inches long, two inches wide, and an inch and a quarter deep. It features a sliding lid that pulls out in the usual way, but the entire box has a snug inner lining that can be pulled out like a drawer along with the lid. (See Fig. 218.) It387 is used like this:—Any small item, like a glove or a lady’s handkerchief, is secretly placed inside this inner lining. The performer shows the box to the audience, and to prove it’s empty, turns it over towards them and pulls the lid almost all the way out, pulling out the inner lining or drawer at the same time. (See Fig. 219.) From the position of the box, the drawer is completely hidden by the lid at a very short distance. The box appears to be totally empty. The performer then closes it, turning it right side up and placing it on the table. He proceeds with the next part of the trick and, at the right moment, opens the box again or invites someone else to do so. This time, only the lid is pulled out, revealing the hidden item inside the box.

Fig. 220.

There is another speciality about the Domino-box, which renders it available to cause the disappearance of a coin placed in it; though, as in the case of the “Rattle-box,” described in the chapter devoted to coin tricks, the coin is heard to rattle within it till the very moment of its disappearance. This is effected as follows:—Between the bottom of the drawer and that of the box proper is a very small space, just large enough to allow a shilling to lie between the true and false bottom. On the under side of the drawer, however (see Fig. 220, showing the under side of the drawer portion), are glued two thin slips of wood, gradually approaching each other, and thereby narrowing this space to a width of about half an inch. If when the lid is withdrawn with the drawer, as already explained, a shilling or sovereign is dropped into the box, and the box again closed, the coin will have plenty of room to rattle about as long as it remains388 at the end a, but if shaken down with a sharp jerk in the direction of the end b, it will become caught in the narrower portion of the opening, and will thenceforth be silent, unless it may suit the purpose of the performer to release it again, which he can do by a sharp downward jerk in the direction of a. Of course, as the coin is below the false bottom, it will appear to have vanished when the box is opened in the ordinary way.

There’s another unique feature of the Domino box that allows it to make a coin placed inside it disappear; however, just like the "Rattle box" described in the chapter on coin tricks, the coin can be heard rattling around until the moment it disappears. Here’s how it works: there’s a very small gap between the bottom of the drawer and the actual bottom of the box, just big enough for a shilling to fit between the real and fake bottom. On the underside of the drawer, though (see Fig. 220, showing the underside of the drawer portion), there are two thin strips of wood glued in place, gradually getting closer together, which narrows this gap to about half an inch. If a shilling or sovereign is dropped into the box when the lid is removed along with the drawer, and the box is closed again, the coin has plenty of space to rattle around as long as it remains at end a. But if it’s shaken down with a quick jerk toward end b, it will get stuck in the narrower part of the opening and will be silent from that point on, unless the performer chooses to release it again by giving a quick downward jerk toward a. Naturally, since the coin is below the false bottom, it will seem to have vanished when the box is opened normally.

The Domino-box is sometimes used to change a sovereign to its equivalent in silver, the “change” being beforehand wrapped in paper, and concealed in the drawer. It is sometimes also caused to fill itself with bonbons, in place of a coin deposited in it.

The Domino box is sometimes used to convert a sovereign into its equivalent in silver, with the “change” wrapped in paper and hidden in the drawer beforehand. It can also be made to fill itself with candies instead of a coin put in it.

These boxes are usually made in pairs, alike in appearance, but the one is a simple box without any speciality, and may therefore be handed round for examination, the mechanical box being adroitly substituted at the right moment. The fact that two boxes are used is, of course, carefully concealed.

These boxes are typically made in pairs, looking identical, but one is just a plain box with no special features and can be passed around for inspection, while the mechanical box is cleverly swapped in at the right moment. The fact that two boxes are used is, of course, kept a secret.

Fig. 221.

The Coffee Trick. (Coffee Berries changed to Hot Coffee, White Beans to Sugar, and Bran to Hot Milk).—The pieces of apparatus used in this trick are of brass or japanned tin, and are three in number, two being tall cylindrical vases, standing eighteen to twenty inches in height, the third a goblet-shaped vase, of about half that height. The latter is made upon the principle of the “bran glass,” above described, consisting of three portions (see Fig. 221), the goblet a, the cover c, and a shallow tray b, which fits into the goblet, and which, if the cover is pressed down smartly, and again removed, is lifted off with it. It differs, however, from the “bran shape” in the fact that b is open at top instead of at bottom, and is only about one-fifth the depth of the goblet, leaving therefore considerable space below it. This portion of the apparatus is prepared for use by placing in the goblet a quantity of hot milk, putting b in position above it, and finally filling b with loose bran.

The Coffee Trick. (Coffee Berries changed to Hot Coffee, White Beans to Sugar, and Bran to Hot Milk).—The equipment used in this trick is made of brass or coated tin and consists of three pieces: two tall cylindrical vases, each about eighteen to twenty inches high, and one goblet-shaped vase that's roughly half that height. The goblet is constructed based on the “bran glass” method described earlier, with three parts (see Fig. 221), which are the goblet a, the cover c, and a shallow tray b that fits inside the goblet. When the cover is pressed down firmly and then removed, the tray lifts off with it. However, it differs from the “bran shape” in that b is open at the top instead of the bottom and is only about one-fifth the depth of the goblet, leaving a considerable space below it. This part of the setup is prepared by pouring a quantity of hot milk into the goblet, placing b on top of it, and finally filling b with loose bran.

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Fig. 222.

The construction of the other two vases will be quickly understood upon an inspection of Figs. 222, 223. a is the vase, and c the cover fitting loosely over it, but between these two is a well, b, made double, so as to fit at once into and outside of a, after a mode of construction which we have more than once had occasion to notice. There is a bayonet-catch at the lower edge of c, corresponding with a pin or stud at the lower edge of b, so that c may be lifted off either with or without b. There is a similar catch at the lower edge of b, corresponding with a stud at the bottom of a, but cut in the opposite direction to the other catch, so that the action of unlocking a from b locks b to c, and vice versâ.

The construction of the other two vases will be quickly understood upon inspecting Figs. 222, 223. a is the vase, and c is the cover that fits loosely over it, but between these two is a well, b, designed to fit inside and outside of a, following a construction method we've noticed more than once. There’s a bayonet catch at the lower edge of c, which corresponds to a pin or stud at the lower edge of b, allowing c to be lifted off either with or without b. There’s a similar catch at the lower edge of b, corresponding to a stud at the bottom of a, but cut in the opposite direction to the other catch, so that unlocking a from b locks b to c, and vice versâ.

Fig. 223.

The vase a requires a special description. A shallow saucer of tin, d, just fits the interior of the vase, working up and down therein piston-fashion, but prevented from coming out altogether by the fact that the upper edge of a is slightly turned inwards all round. Below d is a spiral spring, whose action tends to force d to the top of the vase, as shown in Fig. 222. From the centre of d, however, there extends downwards through the spiral390 spring a piece of stiff wire e, with a crook, f, at the end. The foot of the vase is hollow throughout. If the saucer d is forced down by pressure from within, this wire, as soon as it reaches the position shown in Fig. 223, will hook itself within the foot of the vase, and so keep down d, until the crook is again released, when the whole will instantly return to the condition shown in Fig. 222. The bottom of the foot is open, so that the fingers can without difficulty find and release the crook when necessary.

The vase requires a special description. A shallow tin saucer, d, fits perfectly inside the vase, moving up and down like a piston, but it can't completely come out because the upper edge of a is slightly turned inward all around. Below d is a spiral spring that pushes d to the top of the vase, as shown in Fig. 222. However, a piece of stiff wire e extends down through the spiral spring from the center of d, with a hook, f, at the end. The base of the vase is hollow throughout. If the saucer d is pushed down by pressure from inside, this wire will hook into the base of the vase as soon as it reaches the position shown in Fig. 223, keeping d down until the hook is released, at which point everything will immediately return to the condition shown in Fig. 222. The bottom of the base is open, making it easy for fingers to find and release the hook when needed.

The vases are prepared by pressing down d in each as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 223, and filling the well of the one with hot coffee, and that of the other with loaf-sugar. Their respective covers are then placed over them. The attention of the audience is first directed to a couple of wooden boxes, each about half as long again as the vases, and ten or twelve inches in depth, one of which is filled with coffee-berries, and the other with white haricot beans. The performer now uncovers the vase which contains the coffee, first turning the bayonet-catch so as to lift off the well b with the cover, and shows, by holding the vase upside down and rattling his wand within it, that it is perfectly empty. He now fills it with coffee-berries, laying it down in the box to do so, and holding it by the foot with one hand while he shovels the berries into it with the other. Having completely filled it with the berries, he holds it aloft, and, to show that there is “no deception,” tilts it, and lets them run back again into the box. Again he dips it into the box, but, as he does so, releases the crook (which the fingers of the hand holding the vase are just in position to do), and thus lets d fly up to the top of the vase. Again he brings up the vase, apparently full as before, but really having only a mere layer of berries, of the depth of d, at the top. He now puts on the cover, the well in which again forces d and the superposed layer of coffee-berries down to make way for it, and causes the crook again to catch beneath the hollow of the foot. The same operation is now gone through with the vase whose well contains the sugar, and the box of white beans. The performer lastly takes from the third vase a handful of bran, which he scatters to show its genuineness, and then places the cover over it. The trick is now really completed. On removing the respective covers (taking care of course, first to turn the bayonet-catches in the right direction),391 the wells are released from the covers and locked to the vases, which are thus found full respectively of hot coffee and sugar, and, on removing the cover of the third vase, the bran is lifted off with it, and the milk is revealed.

The vases are set up by pressing down d in each one as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 223, and filling one with hot coffee and the other with loaf sugar. Then their covers are placed on top. The audience's attention is first drawn to a pair of wooden boxes, each about one and a half times the length of the vases and ten or twelve inches deep, with one box filled with coffee berries and the other with white haricot beans. The performer then uncovers the vase containing the coffee, first turning the bayonet catch to lift off the well b with the cover, demonstrating that it is completely empty by holding the vase upside down and shaking his wand inside it. He then fills it with coffee berries, placing it down in the box to do so, holding it by the base with one hand while shoveling the berries in with the other. Once it’s completely full, he holds it up and tilts it to show there’s “no deception,” letting the berries fall back into the box. He dips it back into the box again, but as he does, he releases the crook (which his fingers are positioned to do), thus letting d spring up to the top of the vase. He raises the vase again, appearing full as before, but actually containing just a thin layer of berries, the depth of d, at the top. He then puts on the cover, which forces d and the layer of coffee berries down to make space, causing the crook to catch underneath the hollow of the base. The same process is repeated with the vase that holds the sugar and the box of white beans. Finally, the performer takes a handful of bran from the third vase, scatters it to prove it’s real, and then puts the cover on. The trick is now truly completed. When the respective covers are removed (making sure to turn the bayonet catches in the right direction first),391 the wells are released from the covers and locked to the vases, which are then found to be full of hot coffee and sugar. When the cover of the third vase is lifted, the bran comes off with it, revealing milk underneath.

Fig. 224. Fig. 225.

Some coffee vases, and more particularly those of French make, dispense with the bayonet-catch, replacing it by a peculiar arrangement inside the top of the cover. The upper edge of the well is slightly turned in all round, and the turning of the knob at the top of the cover causes three flat bolts or catches to shoot out circularly from the edges of a hollow disc, soldered to the top of the cover inside, and insert themselves under this projecting edge. (See Figs. 224, 225.) The mechanical arrangement by which this is effected is almost impossible to explain in writing, though it becomes readily intelligible upon an actual inspection of the apparatus, and will be understood without much difficulty after a slight study of the above diagrams, the arrow in each case indicating the direction in which the knob must be turned, in order to bring the bolts into the condition shown in the opposite diagram.

Some coffee vases, especially those made in France, do away with the bayonet catch and instead feature a unique setup inside the top of the lid. The upper edge of the well is slightly rounded all the way around, and turning the knob on the top of the lid causes three flat bolts to extend outward from the edges of a hollow disc that's attached to the inside of the lid, inserting themselves under this protruding edge. (See Figs. 224, 225.) The mechanical setup that makes this work is almost impossible to describe in writing, but it becomes clear when you actually see the device in person and can be understood with a bit of study of the diagrams above, with the arrow in each case showing the direction in which the knob should be turned to position the bolts as illustrated in the opposite diagram.

The Inexhaustible Box.—The inexhaustible box is, to all outward appearance, a plain wooden box, of walnut, mahogany, or rosewood, in length from twelve to twenty inches, and in depth and width from nine to fifteen inches. Whatever its dimensions, its width and depth, exclusive of the lid, must be alike. To prove that it is without preparation within, the performer turns it over on the table towards the spectators, and, lifting the lid, shows that it is perfectly empty. Again he closes it, and, turning it right side upwards, opens it once more, and instantly proceeds to take from it a variety of different articles. At any moment the box is again turned over towards the audience, and shown to be empty; but it is no sooner replaced, than the performer recommences taking from it toys, bonbons,392 etc., the supply being many times larger than could possibly be contained at one time in the box.

The Endless Box.—The inexhaustible box looks like a simple wooden box made of walnut, mahogany, or rosewood, measuring between twelve to twenty inches in length and nine to fifteen inches in depth and width. Regardless of its size, its width and depth (excluding the lid) must be equal. To demonstrate that it's truly empty inside, the performer flips it over on the table for the audience to see, then lifts the lid to show that it's completely empty. He closes it again, turns it right side up, and then immediately starts pulling out a variety of different items. At any point, the box can be turned back towards the audience and shown to be empty again; as soon as it’s set down, the performer starts taking out toys, candies,392 and more, with the amount far exceeding what could possibly fit in the box at one time.

Fig. 226.

The bottom a b of the box (see Fig. 226) is moveable, working on a hinge b extending along its front. When the box is turned over to the front, this bottom piece does not turn over with it, but remains flat upon the table as before. A piece of wood b c, of exactly similar size and shape, is glued to a b at right angles. When the box stands right side upwards, this piece lies flat against the front of the box, whose upper edge is made with a slight “return,” so as to conceal it. When the box is turned over to the front, this piece, like the bottom, retains its position, while any object which had previously been placed in the box remains undisturbed, but hidden by this latter piece. (See Figs. 226, 227.) It is, of course, necessary that such object should be of such a size as not to overpass the arc which the edge of the box describes in its change of position, and the length from b to c must be exactly the same as that from a to b.

The bottom a b of the box (see Fig. 226) is movable, attached by a hinge b along its front. When the box is flipped to the front, this bottom piece stays flat on the table as before. A piece of wood b c, which is exactly the same size and shape, is glued to a b at a right angle. When the box is upright, this piece lies flat against the front of the box, with its upper edge slightly turned over to hide it. When the box is flipped to the front, this piece, like the bottom, stays in place while any object that was previously inside the box remains undisturbed but is concealed by this piece. (See Figs. 226, 227.) It’s essential that such an object is small enough not to cross the arc that the edge of the box makes during its movement, and the length from b to c must exactly match the length from a to b.

The mode of using the box will require little explanation. Any number of objects, not overpassing the limits we have mentioned, may be placed in the box, which, being then turned over, can be shown apparently empty. The box being replaced in its normal position, the articles are again within it, and can be produced at pleasure. The effect of “inexhaustibility” is produced as follows:—Each time that the performer turns over the box to show that it is empty, he takes from the servante, or from his pockets, and places upon a b, a fresh supply of articles, to be produced as soon as the box is again right side upwards.

The way to use the box is pretty simple. You can place any number of items inside it, as long as you don't exceed the limits we've mentioned. When the box is turned upside down, it appears to be empty. Once the box is put back in its normal position, the items are back inside and can be taken out whenever desired. The effect of “inexhaustibility” is created like this: each time the performer tips the box to show it’s empty, they take additional items from the servante or their pockets and place them on a b, ready to be revealed as soon as the box is turned right side up again.

Fig. 227.

It should be mentioned that the hinge at b is made to act freely,393 so that the bottom may by its own weight retain its position when the box is turned over, and not turn over with the box. Some boxes are made with a catch or pin at some part of a, so as to prevent a b falling prematurely while the box is being placed on the table, or while the performer carries round the box, and shows that, inside and out, it is without preparation. This, however, the performer may safely do, even without the use of any catch or fastening, by taking care to grasp the box, when carrying it, by its front edge, with his fingers inside it. The fingers will thus press b c closely against the front of the box, and will thereby effectually prevent a b from shifting its position. The box is, of course, in the case supposed, really empty. The performer has therefore to make an opportunity for introducing what may be needful into it; this he may do by remarking as he replaces it on his table, “You are by this time, ladies and gentlemen, tolerably well satisfied that there is nothing in this box; but for the greater satisfaction of those who may not have been able to see the interior as I carried it round, I will once more show you that it is absolutely empty.” So saying, he turns it over, and once more shows the interior, at the same time placing on a b whatever article he designs to produce.

It should be noted that the hinge at b is designed to move freely,393 allowing the bottom to stay in place by its own weight when the box is flipped over, instead of flipping with the box. Some boxes include a catch or pin at some part of a to stop a b from dropping too soon while the box is being set on the table or as the performer carries it around, demonstrating that it’s completely empty inside and out. However, the performer can manage this without any catch or fastener by holding the box from the front edge with their fingers inside it. This way, the fingers press b c snugly against the front of the box, effectively keeping a b in place. In this scenario, the box is indeed empty. Therefore, the performer needs to create a chance to add whatever is necessary into it; they can do this by saying as they put it back on the table, “By now, ladies and gentlemen, you’re probably quite satisfied that there’s nothing in this box; but for the peace of mind of those who may not have seen the inside when I was carrying it around, I’ll once again show you that it’s completely empty.” With that, they turn it over and reveal the interior again, while placing on a b whatever item they plan to produce.

Fig. 228.

The Japanese Inexhaustible Boxes.—This is a form of the same apparatus, in which an additional element of mystery is produced by the use of a box within a box. The inner box is an ordinary inexhaustible box, as last described, but made with a flat wooden lid, instead of the hollow or “box” lid used in the older form of the trick.394 The outer box just fits over the inner, and is, in fact, a mere cover for it, being an ordinary wooden box, save that it has no front. The two are brought on one within the other. The performer begins by taking the smaller box (which is ready filled with the objects to be produced) completely out of the larger, and shows that the latter is absolutely empty. He then places the two boxes together, as shown in Fig. 228, turning over the smaller box to show its interior, as already described. After this has been done, the smaller box is tilted back to its normal position within the larger, the lid of the latter being slightly lifted to allow it to pass, and then both lids being opened together, the production of the contents commences. The function of the larger box is, in fact, merely to act as a screen to the hinder part of the smaller, when turned over towards the audience. The only advantage of the Japanese over the ordinary box is that it may be worked on any table, and with spectators on all sides, but this advantage is counterbalanced by the drawback that nothing can be produced save what was originally in the box, neither can the smaller box be carried round, and shown empty. This, however, may be met by beginning the trick with the two boxes together, and then, after having brought to light the whole of the original contents, offering (for the pretended purpose of heightening the effect) to continue the trick without the aid of the outer box. The inner box may thenceforth be replenished from behind in the same way as the ordinary Inexhaustible Box.

The Japanese Endless Boxes.—This is a version of the same device, where an extra layer of mystery is created by using a box inside another box. The inner box is a typical inexhaustible box, as described earlier, but it has a flat wooden lid instead of the hollow or "box" lid used in the traditional version of the trick.394 The outer box fits snugly over the inner one and is simply a cover, being an ordinary wooden box without a front. The two boxes are presented one inside the other. The performer starts by taking out the smaller box (which is pre-filled with the items to be revealed) entirely from the larger box, demonstrating that the latter is completely empty. He then places the two boxes together, as shown in Fig. 228, flipping the smaller box to show its inside, as previously explained. After this, the smaller box is tilted back to its normal position inside the larger box, with the lid of the larger box slightly raised to let it pass, and then both lids are opened simultaneously to begin revealing the contents. The larger box essentially serves only as a screen for the back of the smaller box when it’s turned towards the audience. The main benefit of the Japanese design over the standard box is that it can be performed on any table, with spectators all around, but this comes with the drawback that nothing can be produced except what was originally inside the box, nor can the smaller box be taken around and shown as empty. However, this can be addressed by starting the trick with both boxes together and then, after revealing all the original contents, claiming (for the sake of enhancing the effect) to continue the trick without the outer box. The inner box can then be replenished from behind in the same manner as the regular Inexhaustible Box.

The Inexhaustible Box is frequently made the vehicle for those distributions of bonbons, toys, etc., which to the juvenile mind form395 by no means the least attractive feature of a magical performance. It is also available for the production of flowers, multiplying balls (see page 307), goblets, bird-cages, and the miscellaneous assortment of articles generally associated with “hat” tricks. One of the most effective modes of using it is in connection with the very pretty trick next following.

The Inexhaustible Box is often used to distribute treats like candies, toys, and more, which are definitely some of the most appealing aspects of a magic show for kids. It can also be used to create flowers, multiplying balls (see page 307), goblets, birdcages, and various other items typically linked with “hat” tricks. One of the best ways to use it is in conjunction with the lovely trick that follows.

The Feast of Lanterns.—The performer, having exhibited the box empty, as already described, turns it over again, and instantly produces from it a paper lantern of many colours, with a lighted candle in it. This he hands to his assistant or one of the company to hang up at some convenient part of the stage or room, and returning to the box produces another, and yet another, till ten or twelve, or even a larger number, have been produced, the box being every now and then turned over to prove it empty. The effect of a number of lanterns thus mysteriously produced from an empty box, and hung about the stage in all directions, is most brilliant. As the candles do not burn very long, and there may be some risk of the lanterns catching fire, it is well to make this trick the finale of the entertainment, and to allow the curtain to fall before the illumination has had time to lose its effect.

Lantern Festival.—The performer, after showing the box was empty, flips it over again and immediately pulls out a colorful paper lantern with a lit candle inside. He hands this to his assistant or someone in the audience to hang up in a suitable spot on the stage or in the room. Then he goes back to the box and brings out another one, and then another, until he has produced ten or twelve, or maybe even more, all the while turning the box over now and then to prove it’s empty. The sight of all these lanterns mysteriously created from the empty box and hanging around the stage is absolutely stunning. Since the candles don’t last very long and there’s a slight chance of the lanterns catching fire, it's best to make this trick the finale of the show and let the curtain fall before the lighting has a chance to lose its impact.

Fig. 229.
Fig. 230.

A great part of the effect of the trick lies in the very considerable bulk of the lanterns, three or four of which would apparently be more than sufficient to fill a box from which a dozen or so are produced. This arises from the construction of the lanterns themselves, which are of the kind used for Christmas-trees and illuminations, and when open offer a considerable cylindrical surface (see Fig. 229), though when closed they are little more than flat discs (see Fig. 230). They are placed in the box in the condition shown in the last-mentioned figure; but when lifted out by the wire at top, at once expand, concertina-fashion, and assume the shape shown in Fig. 229. They are lighted in sundry ways, one method being as follows:—Each lantern contains about three-quarters of an inch of396 candle, from which the wick has been removed, and a wax match inserted in its stead. Against the front of the box, or rather against the wooden flap b c (see Fig. 227), is glued a tablet d of sandpaper upon which to strike the match, and a gentle rub against this instantly lights the candle, when the lantern is immediately lifted out, as already explained. There is, however, an improvement whereby the lanterns are not only made to occupy much less space, but may be lighted simultaneously. In this case the little cylinder which forms the socket for the candle, and which should be about half an inch in diameter, instead of occupying the middle of the space at the bottom of the lantern, is placed at one side of such space. One of the lanterns, viz., that which is to be undermost when they are grouped together, has no further preparation; but the second, by the side of its own socket, has a round hole in the bottom, just large enough to give room for the socket of the first. The next, or third lantern, has two holes, allowing the passage of the sockets of the first and second. The fourth has three holes, the fifth four, the sixth five, the seventh six, and the eighth seven, so that when the lanterns are placed one upon another in proper order, the sockets of the lower lanterns come up in a circle through the holes in the bottom of the uppermost one. The tops and bottoms are made of tin, which is not only safe from catching fire, but occupies very little space. In this case the original wicks of the candles are retained, but are slightly moistened with turpentine to render them instantly inflammable, and are lighted by a lucifer or wax match struck in the ordinary way, the merest touch sufficing to ignite them. They may then be lifted out in rapid succession with great effect. A group of six or eight lanterns thus prepared may be produced from a borrowed hat, being previously concealed in the breast or tail-pocket of the performer, and “loaded” into the hat at any convenient opportunity. It is desirable in this case to have a friction tablet glued upon the top of the uppermost lantern to strike the match upon, as the hat lining is hardly adapted for that purpose.

A big part of the effect of the trick comes from the size of the lanterns, with three or four looking like more than enough to fill a box that produces about a dozen. This is due to how the lanterns are built, similar to the ones used for Christmas trees and decorations. When opened, they create a large cylindrical surface (see Fig. 229), but when closed, they are just flat discs (see Fig. 230). They are placed in the box as shown in the previous figure; however, when pulled out by the wire at the top, they instantly expand like an accordion and take on the shape shown in Fig. 229. They are lit in various ways, one method being as follows: each lantern contains about three-quarters of an inch of396 candle wax, with the wick removed, and a wax match inserted instead. A sandpaper tablet d is glued against the front of the box, or more accurately, against the wooden flap b c (see Fig. 227), on which to strike the match—just a gentle rub against this lights the candle, and the lantern is then quickly lifted out, as mentioned before. There's also an improvement that reduces the space the lanterns occupy and allows them to be lit at the same time. In this case, the small cylinder that holds the candle, about half an inch in diameter, is positioned off-center at the bottom of the lantern. One lantern, specifically the one that will be on the bottom when they're stacked, doesn't need further preparation; but the second one has a round hole at the bottom, just big enough for the socket of the first. The next, or third lantern, has two holes for the sockets of the first and second. The fourth has three holes, the fifth four, the sixth five, the seventh six, and the eighth seven. So, when the lanterns are stacked in the proper order, the sockets of the lower lanterns come up through the holes in the bottom of the top one. The tops and bottoms are made of tin, which doesn’t catch fire easily and takes up minimal space. In this setup, the original wicks of the candles are retained but are slightly moistened with turpentine to make them instantly flammable and are lit with a standard match, with just a light touch enough to ignite them. They can then be pulled out quickly for a dramatic effect. A group of six or eight lanterns prepared this way can be produced from a borrowed hat, having been concealed in the performer’s breast or tail pocket and “loaded” into the hat at an appropriate moment. It’s helpful to glue a friction tablet on top of the uppermost lantern to strike the match against, as hat lining isn’t very suitable for that.

Fig. 231. Fig. 232.

The lanterns above described are the most generally used, and are by much the easiest to manipulate. There is, however, a spherical lantern also obtainable at the toy-shops, which has a decidedly prettier effect. This form of lantern is, when shut up, as shown in Fig. 231.397 To develop it, the wires a and b are each made to describe a semi-circle, as shown by the dotted line, bringing the whole into the condition shown in Fig. 232, in which condition it is maintained by slipping the loop of a under b. The best plan for lighting in this case is to have a separate small piece of candle, prepared with a match wick, as above-mentioned, placed in readiness on the servante, and a small pin or sharp nail projecting upwards from the bottom of the box to act as a candlestick. The candles in the lantern will in this case need no special preparation. The performer first lights the prepared candle by rubbing it against the tablet, and then presses it down upon the upright pin we have mentioned. The other candles are in turn lighted from this, each lantern being put into shape before being lifted out of the box, which must in this case be of tolerable size, in order to admit of their ready development.

The lanterns described above are the most commonly used and definitely the easiest to handle. However, there’s also a spherical lantern available at toy stores that looks quite a bit nicer. When closed, this type of lantern appears as shown in Fig. 231.397 To set it up, the wires a and b each need to form a semi-circle, as indicated by the dotted line, bringing it into the position shown in Fig. 232, which is maintained by slipping the loop of a under b. The best approach for lighting it is to use a separate small piece of candle, prepared with a match wick, as mentioned earlier, placed on the servante, with a small pin or sharp nail sticking up from the bottom of the box to serve as a candlestick. The candles in the lantern won’t need any special preparation. The performer first lights the prepared candle by rubbing it against the tablet and then presses it down onto the upright pin we mentioned. The other candles are lit one by one from this, with each lantern being shaped before being taken out of the box, which should be reasonably sized to allow for easy setup.

The Butterfly Trick.—This is a trick of Japanese origin, which became very popular two or three years since. In effect it is as follows:—The performer brings forward an ordinary fan, and a couple of bits of tissue-paper, each torn into a fanciful likeness of a butterfly. Taking these upon his hand, he gently fans them, the motion of the air speedily causing them to rise above his head. Still gently fanning them, he causes them to hover, now high, now low, now fluttering along the wall, now descending into a gentleman’s hat, whence they presently emerge to again flutter hither and thither at his pleasure.

The Butterfly Effect.—This is a trick that originated in Japan and became really popular a couple of years ago. Here’s how it works: The performer takes an ordinary fan and a couple of pieces of tissue paper, each one torn into a fun butterfly shape. Holding these in his hand, he gently fans them, and the air quickly lifts them above his head. By continuing to fan them softly, he makes them hover—sometimes high, sometimes low, sometimes flitting along the wall, and at other times dropping into a gentleman’s hat, from which they soon reemerge to flutter around at his command.

The point that most strikes an attentive observer is the fact that, whether they fly high or low, the butterflies always keep together. Sometimes they may be a couple of feet apart, sometimes only a few inches, but they never exceed the above limit; and the spectator398 naturally concludes that an extraordinary degree of dexterity must be necessary to enable the performer to keep them from diverging more widely. Here, however, in truth lies the secret of the trick, which is, that the so-called butterflies are connected by a piece of very fine silk a couple of feet in length, which, when the butterflies are in motion, is absolutely invisible to the spectators. The remainder of the trick is a matter of practice, though it is less difficult than would be imagined by any one who had never attempted it.

The thing that really stands out to anyone watching is that, whether they fly high or low, the butterflies always stay together. Sometimes they're a couple of feet apart, and sometimes just a few inches, but they never go beyond that limit; and the onlooker398 naturally thinks that an incredible level of skill must be needed to keep them from spreading out more. However, the truth behind the trick is that the so-called butterflies are tied together by a very fine piece of silk a couple of feet long, which is completely invisible to the audience while they’re in motion. The rest of the trick just takes practice, though it's not as challenging as one might think if they’ve never tried it.

Some performers have the silk thread attached to one of the buttons of the coat. This arrangement will be found greatly to facilitate the working of the trick.

Some performers have the silk thread attached to one of the buttons on their coat. This setup can really help make the trick easier to execute.

The paper for the butterflies is better torn than cut, and should be as nearly as possible of the shape of a St. George’s cross, and about two inches square.

The paper for the butterflies is better torn than cut and should be as close as possible to the shape of a St. George’s cross, roughly two inches square.

The Wizard’s Omelet. (Borrowed Rings and Live Doves produced from an Omelet.)—This is a trick which always produces a great sensation, whether performed upon the stage or in the drawing-room. Its effect is as follows: The performer produces either naturally or magically (e.g., from the egg-bag, or from the mouth of his assistant, as described at page 329) three eggs, which he hands round for examination. His assistant next borrows from the audience three ladies’ rings, receiving them, in order to prove that he does not tamper with them in any way, on the performer’s wand instead of in his hands. The wand, with the rings still upon it, is laid upon the table. The assistant next brings in an omelet pan, and places it, with its lid beside it, on the table. The performer breaks the eggs into it, dropping in shells and all—then pours some spirits over it, to which he sets fire, and while it is still blazing drops the rings from the wand into it. He brings it forward to show that the rings are really in the flames; and on returning to his table, claps the cover on the pan, and fires a pistol (any ordinary pistol) over it. Without a moment’s interval, he again removes the cover. All traces of the omelet and egg-shells have vanished, but in their place are found three live doves, each with a ribbon round its neck, to which is attached one of the borrowed rings.

The Wizard's Omelet. (Borrowed rings and live doves created from an omelet.)—This trick always creates a big reaction, whether done on stage or in a living room. Here’s how it works: The performer brings out three eggs, either naturally or magically (e.g., from the egg-bag or from the mouth of his assistant, as mentioned on page 329), and hands them around for the audience to check. His assistant then borrows three rings from the audience, proving he doesn't mess with them by placing them on the performer’s wand instead of holding them in his hands. The wand, with the rings still on it, is set on the table. The assistant then brings in an omelet pan and sets it, along with its lid, on the table. The performer breaks the eggs into the pan, shells and all—then pours some alcohol over it and lights it on fire, dropping the rings from the wand into the flames while it's still blazing. He shows the audience that the rings are actually in the fire; then, after covering the pan, he fires a pistol (any standard pistol) over it. Without any delay, he removes the cover again. All remnants of the omelet and eggshells have disappeared, and in their place are three live doves, each wearing a ribbon around its neck, with one of the borrowed rings attached to it.

The explanation of this surprising result is simplicity itself. The399 reader, with his present knowledge, will readily conjecture that, as to the rings, a substitution is effected; but he may not so easily guess the manner of such substitution. It will be remembered that the rings were collected by the assistant on the performer’s wand. This arrangement, which is ostensibly adopted to prevent, in reality facilitates an exchange. The assistant makes his collection with three dummy rings placed beforehand on the lower end of the wand, and concealed by the hand in which he holds it; which, we will suppose, is the right hand. In returning to the stage, he takes hold with the left hand of the opposite end of the wand, and allows the borrowed rings to run down into that hand, at the same moment releasing the dummy rings from the right hand, and allowing them to run upon the middle of the wand in place of the others. He now has the borrowed rings in his left hand, and (laying the wand with the substitutes on the table) carries them off with him to prepare for the dénouement of the trick.

The explanation for this surprising result is incredibly simple. The399 reader, with their current understanding, will quickly guess that there’s a substitution happening with the rings; however, they might not easily figure out how this substitution occurs. It's worth remembering that the rings were collected by the assistant on the performer’s wand. This setup, which is meant to prevent an exchange, actually makes it easier to swap them out. The assistant collects the rings using three dummy rings that were placed on the lower end of the wand and hidden by the hand holding it; let’s assume that’s his right hand. As he returns to the stage, he grabs the opposite end of the wand with his left hand, allowing the borrowed rings to fall into that hand while simultaneously releasing the dummy rings from his right hand, letting them slide down to the middle of the wand in place of the borrowed ones. Now he has the borrowed rings in his left hand, and (setting the wand with the substitutes on the table) takes them away with him to get ready for the dénouement of the trick.

Fig. 233.

The only other matter which will require explanation is the construction of the omelet pan. This is a shallow pan of brass or tin, about ten inches in diameter, by two and a half in depth. Within this is an inner pan, also of brass or tin, fitting tightly within it, but about half an inch less in depth. The lid is made with a very deep rim or shoulder all round, and just fits within the lining, though less tightly than the latter fits within the pan. (See Fig. 233, in which a represents the pan, b the lining, and c the lid.) The assistant, as soon as he gets behind the scenes, loops the borrowed rings to the400 ribbons, which are already tied round the necks of the three doves, and places the latter in b, immediately putting on c (the two together having the appearance of a simple cover), and brings forward the pan and cover. The performer now makes his omelet, and drops the substitute rings into it. In bringing forward the pan to show that the rings are really there, he takes care to avoid the owners of them, who would alone be likely to detect the substitution. When he claps on the cover, the trick is really done, the firing of the pistol being merely for effect. When the cover is again removed, the lining remains in the pan, concealing the omelet beneath it, and revealing the doves, with the rings attached to their necks.

The only other thing that needs explaining is how the omelet pan is constructed. It’s a shallow pan made of brass or tin, about ten inches wide and two and a half inches deep. Inside this pan is another, also made of brass or tin, that fits snugly but is about half an inch shallower. The lid has a very deep rim all around it and fits inside the lining, but not as tightly as the lining fits inside the pan. (See Fig. 233, where a represents the pan, b the lining, and c the lid.) As soon as the assistant gets behind the scenes, he loops the borrowed rings onto the ribbons already tied around the necks of the three doves and places them in b, immediately putting on c (the two together look like just a simple cover) and brings forward the pan and cover. The performer then makes his omelet and drops the substitute rings into it. When he presents the pan to show that the rings are really there, he makes sure to avoid the actual owners of the rings, who would be the only ones likely to notice the switch. When he puts the cover on, the trick is complete; the firing of the pistol is merely for effect. When he removes the cover again, the lining stays in the pan, hiding the omelet underneath it and showing the doves with the rings attached to their necks.

The Rose in the Glass Vase.—The ingenious piece of apparatus which we are about to describe was, we believe, the invention of Robert-Houdin. It consists of a glass vase, on a foot, and with a glass lid, standing altogether eight to ten inches in height. This is placed on a square box-like plinth or pedestal, of wood covered with morocco, and measuring about eight inches square by six in height. The lid is placed upon the vase, which, being transparent, is clearly seen to be empty. A borrowed handkerchief is for a moment thrown over the whole, and again removed, when a handsome rose (natural or artificial) is seen to have mysteriously found its way into the vase; whence it is removed, and handed to the company for inspection.

The Rose in the Glass Vase.—The clever device we are about to describe was, we believe, invented by Robert-Houdin. It consists of a glass vase on a foot, with a glass lid, standing about eight to ten inches tall. This is set on a square box-like pedestal made of wood covered with morocco, measuring roughly eight inches square and six inches high. The lid is placed on the vase, which, being transparent, is clearly visible as empty. A borrowed handkerchief is momentarily thrown over the entire setup and then removed, revealing a beautiful rose (either natural or artificial) that has mysteriously appeared in the vase. It is then taken out and handed to the audience for inspection.

Fig. 234.

The secret of this mysterious appearance is twofold, lying partly in the vase and partly in the pedestal. The vase, which at a little distance appears as simple and commonplace as any in a confectioner’s window, has a segment cut401 off one side, leaving an opening of about five inches in height by three and a half in width. (See Fig. 234.) This opening is kept turned away from the audience. The pedestal, like the vase, is closed on every side except the side remote from the spectators, which is open. A curved wire arm, with a “clip” at the end to receive the stalk of the rose, works up and down, describing a quarter of a circle, in this open space. A spring hinge, on which this arm works, impels it to assume the position shown in the figure, thus lifting the rose through the opening into the vase. The apparatus is set by forcing down the arm with the rose into the position indicated by the dotted lines, in which position it is retained by a little catch, until the performer, in the act of covering the vase with the handkerchief, presses a stud at the upper side of the pedestal. This withdraws the catch, and allows the rose to rise into the vase. Of course, the performer in taking out the flower does so from the top, and with proper precautions not to disclose the existence of the opening at the back of the vase.

The secret behind this mysterious appearance has two parts: one in the vase and one in the pedestal. The vase, which looks ordinary and unremarkable from a distance, has a segment cut off one side, creating an opening about five inches high and three and a half inches wide. (See Fig. 234.) This opening is turned away from the audience. The pedestal, like the vase, is closed on all sides except for the side facing away from the spectators, which is open. A curved wire arm with a “clip” at the end to hold the rose's stem moves up and down, tracing a quarter of a circle in this open space. A spring hinge allows this arm to lift the rose through the opening into the vase. The setup is triggered by pressing down the arm with the rose into the position indicated by the dotted lines, where it is held by a small catch until the performer, while covering the vase with a handkerchief, presses a button on the upper side of the pedestal. This releases the catch and lets the rose rise into the vase. Naturally, the performer retrieves the flower from the top, making sure not to reveal the opening at the back of the vase.

The ingenuity of the reader will probably suggest to him combinations to make the trick more effective. To those who have not such ready invention, we may remark that the trick may be very effectively combined with that of the ball that changes to a rose, and vice versâ (see page 300), or a duplicate rose may be placed in the mouchoir du diable (described at page 195), and thence ordered to pass to the vase.

The creativity of the reader will likely come up with ways to make the trick more impressive. For those who may not have such quick ideas, we can suggest that the trick can be effectively paired with the one where the ball turns into a rose, and vice versa (see page 300), or a duplicate rose can be placed in the mouchoir du diable (described on page 195), and then requested to move to the vase.

Fig. 235.

The Chinese Rings.—These are rings of brass or steel, in diameter from five to nine inches, and in thickness varying from a quarter to three-eighths of an inch. The effect of the trick to the spectator is as follows:—The rings are given for examination, and found to be solid and separate; but at the will of the operator they are linked together in chains of two, three, or more, becoming connected and disconnected in a moment, and being continually offered for examination. Finally, after the rings have become involved in an apparently inextricable mass, a slight shake suffices to disentangle them, and to cause them to fall singly upon the stage.

The Chinese Rings.—These are brass or steel rings, measuring between five to nine inches in diameter and ranging from a quarter to three-eighths of an inch thick. The effect of the trick on the audience is as follows:—The rings are shown for inspection and appear to be solid and separate; however, at the operator's command, they are linked together in chains of two, three, or more, connecting and disconnecting in an instant, and are continuously offered for inspection. Eventually, after the rings have become tangled in what seems to be an impossible knot, a gentle shake is all it takes to untangle them, causing them to fall individually onto the stage.

402

402

Fig. 236.

The sets of rings sold at the conjuring depôts vary in number, ranging from six to twelve. The set of eight, which is perhaps the most usual number, consists of one “key” ring, two single rings, a set of two linked together, and a set of three linked together. The “key” ring (see Fig. 235), in which lies the secret of the trick, is simply a ring with a cut or opening, a, in it. For use upon a public stage, where the performer is at a considerable distance from his audience, there may be a gap of an eighth of an inch between the ends, but for drawing-room use, they should just touch each other. Some rings are made to “clip” like an ear-ring, and some have the opening cut diagonally instead of square, but the simple square cut is, in our own opinion, the best.

The sets of rings sold at the magic shops vary in quantity, ranging from six to twelve. The set of eight, which is probably the most common size, includes one “key” ring, two single rings, a pair of linked rings, and a set of three linked rings. The “key” ring (see Fig. 235), which contains the secret of the trick, is just a ring with a cut or opening, a, in it. For use on a public stage, where the performer is at a significant distance from the audience, there may be a gap of an eighth of an inch between the ends, but for parlor use, they should nearly touch each other. Some rings are designed to “clip” like an earring, and some have the opening cut diagonally instead of square, but the simple square cut is, in our opinion, the best.

Fig. 237.

We shall, in the first place, describe the trick as performed with the set of eight rings above mentioned, afterwards noticing the more elaborate performance with twelve. We must premise, however, that the manipulation of the rings admits of almost infinite variation, and that the practice of performers differs greatly as to the mode of working them.

We will first describe the trick using the set of eight rings mentioned above, and then we'll look at the more complex performance with twelve rings. However, we should note that the way the rings are manipulated allows for nearly endless variation, and performers’ techniques can differ significantly in how they handle them.

Fig. 238.
Fig. 239.
Fig. 240.
Fig. 241.

The performer comes forward holding the eight rings in his left hand, arranged as follows. First (i.e., innermost), comes the set of three; then the “key” ring (the opening uppermost in the hand),403 then the set of two; and, lastly, the two single rings. Taking the first of these, he hands it to a spectator for examination; passing it when returned to another person, and carelessly handing a second ring to be examined in like manner. This should be done without any appearance of haste, and with an air of being perfectly indifferent as to how many of the rings are examined. The two “singles” having been duly inspected, the performer requests one of the spectators to take them both in his right hand, at the same time taking in his own right hand the next two rings, which, it will be remembered, are the set of two, though the audience naturally believe them to be, like the first, separate. “Now, sir,” the professor continues, “will you be good enough to link one of the rings which you hold into the other.” The person addressed looks more or less foolish, and finally “gives it up.” “You can’t?” says the performer, in pretended surprise. “My dear sir, nothing is easier. You have only to do as I do. See!” Laying down the rest of the rings, he holds the two as in Fig. 236, and makes a gentle rubbing motion with the thumb upon the rings, and then lets fall one of them, which naturally drops to the position shown in Fig. 237. He now hands these two rings for examination. The spectators seek for some joint or opening, but none is found; and meanwhile the performer404 transfers the next ring (the “key”) to his right hand, keeping the opening under the thumb. He now takes back with the left hand the two single rings, immediately transferring one of them to the right hand, and with the ball of the thumb presses it through the opening in the key ring, into which it falls, with exactly the same effect as the apparent joining of the two linked rings a moment before. Again he separates and again joins the two rings. The second single ring is now made to pass through in like manner, making the combination shown in Fig. 238. The performer remarks, “We now have three joined together. Here are three more, as you see (shaking those in the left hand), all solid and separate, and yet at my will they will join like the others.” Making a rubbing motion with the thumb as before, he drops two of the three, one by one, from the hand, when they will appear as a chain of three. These he hands for examination, taking back the set of two, and linking them one after the other into the key ring, to which now four rings are attached. Again taking back the set of three, he links these also one by one into the key ring, which thus has seven rings inserted in it. (See Fig. 239.) Using both hands, but always keeping the opening of the key ring under one or the other thumb, he now takes off these seven rings, commencing with the two single ones, and again offering them for examination; then taking off the set of two. Last of all, he unlinks the set of three, and then, holding them at length in his left hand, joins the upper one to the key ring, thus making a chain of four, of which the key ring is the uppermost. He next takes the lowermost ring of the four, and links that into the key ring, bringing the four rings into a diamond shape, as shown in Fig. 240. Again unlinking the lower ring, he takes up the set of two, and connects405 them with the key ring, holding them up above it, thus making a chain of six, the key ring being third from the top. (See Fig. 241.) Taking the upper ring between his teeth, he links the two single rings into the key ring on either side, making the figure of a cross, as shown in Fig. 242. As the hands are now occupied in holding the single rings forming the arms of the cross, he can no longer keep the opening of the key ring concealed by the thumb, but it is extremely unlikely that among so many rings, so slight a mark in one of them will attract notice. Regaining possession of the key ring, he links all one by one into it, so as again to bring them into the condition depicted in Fig. 239. Then, holding the key ring with both hands, and with the opening downwards, about a couple of feet from the floor (see Fig. 243), he shakes the rings violently, at the same time gently straining open the key ring, when the seven rings will all in succession drop through the slit, and scatter themselves about the floor, the general impression being that they all fall separate, though the grouped sets, of course, remain still united.

The performer steps forward, holding eight rings in his left hand, arranged like this: first, the set of three (the innermost), followed by the “key” ring (the one with the opening on top), then the set of two, and finally the two single rings. He takes the first single ring and hands it over to a spectator to examine. Once it’s returned, he passes it to another person, casually handing over a second ring for inspection in the same way. This should be done without any rush, projecting an air of indifference about how many rings are checked. After the two single rings have been examined, the performer asks one of the spectators to take both in their right hand, while he takes the next two rings in his own right hand, which, as you'll remember, are the set of two, though the audience assumes they are separate like the first rings. “Now, sir,” the performer says, “would you please link one of the rings you’re holding into the other?” The person looks somewhat awkward and eventually shrugs it off. “You can’t?” says the performer, feigning surprise. “My dear sir, it’s really simple. Just do what I do. Watch!” He sets the rest of the rings aside, holds the two as shown in Fig. 236, making a gentle rubbing motion with his thumb on the rings, then lets one fall, which drops naturally to the position shown in Fig. 237. He hands these two rings for examination. The spectators search for a joint or opening but find none, while the performer transfers the next ring (the “key”) to his right hand, keeping the opening under his thumb. He then takes back the two single rings with his left hand, quickly shifting one to his right, pressing it through the opening in the key ring, where it lands, creating the same effect as the apparent joining of the linked rings moments before. Again he separates and joins the two rings. The second single ring is then made to pass through in the same way, creating the combination shown in Fig. 238. The performer notes, “Now we have three linked together. Here are three more, as you can see” (shaking the ones in his left hand), “all solid and separate, yet at my will, they will join just like the others.” He makes a rubbing motion with his thumb again, letting drop two of the three, one by one, so they form a chain of three. He hands these for examination, retrieves the set of two, and links them one after another into the key ring, now with four rings attached. Taking back the set of three, he links those in as well, adding up to seven rings in the key ring. (See Fig. 239.) Using both hands but always keeping the opening of the key ring covered by a thumb, he starts removing these seven rings, beginning with the two singles, offering them for examination once more, then taking off the set of two. Finally, he unlinks the set of three, holding them in his left hand, linking the top one to the key ring to form a chain of four, with the key ring on top. He then takes the lowest ring of the four and links that into the key ring, creating a diamond shape, as shown in Fig. 240. Unlinking the lowest ring again, he picks up the set of two and connects them to the key ring, raising them above it, thus making a chain of six, with the key ring being third from the top. (See Fig. 241.) He takes the top ring between his teeth, linking the two single rings into the key ring on either side, forming a cross shape, as shown in Fig. 242. With his hands now holding the single rings that form the arms of the cross, he can no longer keep the opening of the key ring hidden beneath his thumb, but it’s highly unlikely that such a small mark among so many rings will be noticed. Regaining control of the key ring, he links all the rings back into it one by one, returning them to the arrangement shown in Fig. 239. Then, holding the key ring with both hands, opening facing down, about two feet from the floor (see Fig. 243), he shakes the rings vigorously while gently pulling the key ring open, causing all seven to drop through the slit in succession and scatter on the floor, giving the impression that they all fell separately, even though the grouped sets remain connected.

It is not an uncommon thing to see a performer commit the gaucherie of handing all the rings, save only the key ring, to be examined in the first instance; the key ring being hidden under the breast or under the tail of the coat, and being added to the set in returning to the table. The spectators are thus needlessly made acquainted with the fact that certain of the rings are already linked together, and this once admitted, the trick loses nine-tenths of its effect.

It’s not unusual to see a performer make the mistake of handing over all the rings, except for the key ring, for inspection at first; the key ring is kept hidden under their shirt or tucked at the back of their coat and is added to the set when returning to the table. This way, the audience is unnecessarily made aware that some of the rings are already linked together, and once that’s understood, the trick loses most of its impact.

406

406

Fig. 242.
Fig. 243.

The set of twelve rings is less frequently seen, and is rather more complicated to manage, though in good hands it is capable of much more brilliant effects than the smaller number. The set consists of five single rings, a group of two, a group of three, and two key rings. These are held in the hands of the performer in the following order. First (i.e., innermost) a key ring, then the group of three, then the second key ring, then the group of two, and lastly the five single rings. The latter are distributed for examination. While they are still in the possession of the audience, the performer requests one of the spectators to link two of them together, and himself taking in his right hand the group of two, pretends to link the latter, as already described, and hands them for examination. The performer meanwhile takes in his right hand one of the key rings, and collects the single rings in his left. As soon as the group of two are handed back, he links one of them to the key ring in his right hand, thus forming a chain of three, with the key ring uppermost. Next linking the lowest ring into the key ring, he forms Fig. 238, which, by holding the two lower rings apart, assumes the shape of a triangle. Again disengaging the lower ring, passing one of the single rings from the left hand to the right, and laying down on the table all the rings remaining in that hand (the group of three407 uppermost) he joins the single ring to the key ring, thus making a chain of four, of which the key ring is second from the top. These he lays, still linked, upon the table, and takes up from the heap already lying there the three uppermost (which, it will be remembered, are the group of three), and holding them for a moment together in the hand, lets them fall one by one to form a second chain of three. Taking the next ring of the heap (the second key ring) in his disengaged hand, he steps forward, and requests some one to take hold of either of the three rings, and to pull against him, in order to prove their solidity. This ascertained, he passes the upper ring of the three into the hand which already holds the key ring, and links it into the key ring, thus forming a second chain of four, of which in this case the key is the uppermost. Linking the lowermost into the key ring, he shows the rings as in Fig. 240. Once more unlinking the lower ring, so that the four again appear as a single chain, he proceeds (apparently) to link all the twelve together. This is effected as follows:—

The set of twelve rings is less commonly seen and is a bit more complicated to handle, but when done well, it can create much more impressive effects than a smaller set. The set includes five single rings, a pair, a trio, and two key rings. The performer holds them in this order: first (i.e., innermost) a key ring, then the trio, then the second key ring, followed by the pair, and finally, the five single rings. The latter are shown to the audience for examination. While they are still with the audience, the performer asks one of the spectators to link two of them together, while he takes the pair in his right hand and pretends to link them as described earlier, then hands them back for inspection. Meanwhile, he takes one of the key rings in his right hand and gathers the single rings in his left. As soon as the pair is returned, he links one of them to the key ring in his right hand, creating a chain of three, with the key ring on top. He then links the lowest ring into the key ring, shaping it into Fig. 238, which, by pulling the two lower rings apart, forms a triangle. After removing the lower ring, he moves one of the single rings from his left hand to his right and sets down all the rings remaining in his left hand (with the trio on top). He connects the single ring to the key ring, making a chain of four, with the key ring second from the top. He places these still linked on the table and picks up the three rings on top of the pile (which, as mentioned, are the trio) and briefly holds them together in his hand before letting them drop one by one to create a second chain of three. Taking the next ring from the pile (the second key ring) in his free hand, he steps forward and asks someone to grab one of the three rings and pull against him, to demonstrate their sturdiness. Once that is confirmed, he moves the top ring of the three into the hand holding the key ring and links it to the key ring, forming a second chain of four, with the key ring at the top this time. He links the bottom ring into the key ring, displaying the rings as in Fig. 240. Again unlinking the lowest ring so that the four appear as a single chain, he proceeds (seemingly) to link all twelve together. This is done as follows:—

Taking two of the single rings, the performer links them into the key ring of the chain which he holds. He next links one of these same single rings into the key ring of the other chain, thus linking the two chains together at a distance of one ring from the end of the chain. He thus has ten rings joined. He now takes the two chains one in each hand by the ends remotest from the point of juncture, immediately after picking up and holding (one in each hand) the two remaining408 single rings. These, of course, he does not and cannot link with the rings adjoining them, but the audience seeing that all the rest are linked together, readily believe that these also form part of the chain. The precise arrangement of the rings will be readily understood from an inspection of Fig. 244.M

Taking two of the single rings, the performer links them into the key ring of the chain he’s holding. Next, he links one of these single rings into the key ring of the other chain, connecting the two chains together at a distance of one ring from the end of the chain. Now, he has ten rings connected. He grabs the two chains, one in each hand, by the ends farthest from where they connect, after picking up and holding the two remaining single rings (one in each hand). Obviously, he doesn’t link these with the rings next to them, but the audience, seeing that all the other rings are linked, easily believes that these also are part of the chain. The exact arrangement of the rings will be clear from looking at Fig. 244.M

M The numbers 1, 2, 3, in the centre of the various rings in Figs. 240–244, indicate whether the ring in question is a “single” or forms part of the group of two or of three, as the case may be.

M The numbers 1, 2, 3, in the center of the different rings in Figs. 240–244, show whether the ring in question is a “single” or is part of a group of two or three, depending on the situation.

Fig. 244.

The feat may either end here, the rings, still linked, being gathered together and carried off by the assistant, or the performer may link all one by one into either of the key rings, and then shake them out and scatter them on the floor in the manner already described as to the eight rings. The performance may be elaborated to any extent, the two key rings giving a wonderful facility of combination, but whatever be the passes adopted they should not be too numerous, as the trick, however skilfully worked, consists only of repetitions of the same primary elements, and the interest of the spectators will quickly diminish.

The act can either conclude here, with the rings still connected and collected by the assistant, or the performer can link them one by one to either of the key rings, then shake them loose and spread them out on the floor as previously described for the eight rings. The performance can be expanded in many ways, as the two key rings allow for great combinations, but no matter the moves chosen, they shouldn't be too many, since the trick, no matter how skillfully done, is just a repetition of the same basic elements, and the audience's interest will fade quickly.

The performer should, in manipulating the rings, study neatness and lightness, rather than rapidity. The effect should be as though the rings melted into and out of one another, and the smallest appearance of force or exertion should be avoided. It has a very good effect in disengaging the rings one from another, to hold them together for a moment or two after they are actually disconnected, and then holding them parallel to each other, to draw them very slowly apart.409 The precise moment of their separation is thus left uncertain, the illusion being thereby materially heightened. A single ring may in this way be drawn along a chain of three or four, the effect being as if the disengaged ring passed through the whole length of the chain.

The performer should focus on neatness and lightness when handling the rings, rather than speed. The goal is to create the illusion that the rings melt into and out of each other, and any sign of force or effort should be avoided. It looks impressive to hold the rings together for a moment after they are actually separated and then keep them parallel while slowly pulling them apart. This makes the exact moment of their separation unclear, which significantly enhances the illusion. A single ring can be moved along a chain of three or four rings, creating the effect that the separate ring passes through the entire length of the chain.409

The Charmed Bullet.—As a rule, people object to being shot at, and the least nervous person might fairly demur at facing the muzzle of a loaded pistol at six paces’ distance; but the magician is superior to such weakness, and will face a bullet with as little compunction as he would stop a ball at cricket. Neither must it be imagined that there is any “deception,” at any rate in the quality of the articles employed. The pistol is a real pistol, the powder is genuine powder, and the bullet—an ordinary leaden bullet—is chosen and marked by one of the audience, fairly placed in the pistol, and fairly rammed home. The pistol is fired with deliberate aim by a disinterested spectator; but no sooner has the smoke cleared away than the performer is seen standing unharmed, with the marked bullet caught between his teeth.

The Magic Bullet.—Typically, people don’t like being shot at, and even the calmest person would likely hesitate when staring down the barrel of a loaded gun from six paces away; however, the magician rises above such fears and confronts a bullet with as little hesitation as he would when stopping a cricket ball. It’s also important to understand that there’s no “trickery” involved, at least regarding the items used. The pistol is a real gun, the powder is real powder, and the bullet—an ordinary lead bullet—is selected and marked by a member of the audience, properly loaded into the pistol, and firmly pushed in. The gun is fired with careful aim by an impartial observer; but as soon as the smoke clears, the performer is seen standing unharmed, with the marked bullet caught between his teeth.

So much for the effect of the trick; now for the explanation. The pistol (see Fig. 245) is, as already stated, an ordinary weapon, and the only speciality of the bullets is that they are a size or two smaller than the bore of the pistol. The ramrod, b, is a plain cylinder of wood or metal, tapering very slightly at each end. The secret lies in the use of a little metal tube a, about two inches in length, open at one end, but closed at the other. This tube, which is of such a size as to fit loosely within the barrel of the pistol, but tightly upon either end of the ramrod, is placed in the right-hand pochette of the performer, and a small bag of bullets in the pochette on the other side.

So much for the effect of the trick; now for the explanation. The pistol (see Fig. 245) is, as already mentioned, a regular weapon, and the only special thing about the bullets is that they are a size or two smaller than the pistol's bore. The ramrod, b, is just a simple wooden or metal cylinder, tapering slightly at both ends. The secret is in the use of a small metal tube a, about two inches long, open at one end but closed at the other. This tube, which fits loosely in the barrel of the pistol but snugly on either end of the ramrod, is kept in the right-hand pochette of the performer, while a small bag of bullets is in the pochette on the other side.

Fig. 245.

The performer comes forward with the pistol in one hand and the ramrod in the other, and having a small charge of gunpowder, screwed up in a bit of soft paper, concealed between the second and third fingers of his right hand. He hands the pistol and ramrod for inspection.410 While they are under examination, he asks, “Can any lady or gentleman oblige me with a little gunpowder?” Nobody answers, and he continues, addressing some mild elderly gentleman, “Perhaps you can accommodate me, sir?” The elderly gentleman naturally replies that he is not in the habit of carrying gunpowder about with him. “Excuse me,” says the performer, “but I fancy you have a small packet of powder under your coat-collar. Permit me!” and drawing his hand gently down beneath the collar, he produces the little packet. This he hands to the person who is holding the pistol, with a request that he will load it. While he puts in the powder, the performer drops his left hand to the pochette, and palms the little bag of bullets, which he forthwith produces from a gentleman’s hat, or a lady’s muff.N From among the bullets he requests the person who put in the powder to select and mark one. While this is done, he himself takes the pistol in his left hand, holding it muzzle upwards, and in the act of transferring it with apparent carelessness to the other hand, secretly drops into it the little tube, the open end upwards. The spectator having chosen and marked the bullet, is requested, for greater certainty, to place it in the pistol himself. A very minute portion of paper is added by way of wad, and the performer then takes the pistol, and rams it down. The bullet, of course, has fallen into the little tube, and as the ramrod fits tightly within the latter, it naturally, when withdrawn, brings out tube and ball with it. The tube and ramrod are made to match (generally black, but sometimes of brass or silver-plated); and therefore the tube, when on the rod, even if exposed, would not be likely to attract attention. The performer, however, prevents the possibility of its doing so, by holding the rod by that end, thereby concealing the tube with his hand. He now hands the pistol to a spectator, requesting him, for fear of accidents, to hold it muzzle upwards until the word to fire is given. The performer now takes up his position at the411 furthest part of the stage, and during his short journey gains possession of the bullet. This is effected by sharply drawing away the ramrod with the left hand, thereby leaving the tube open in the right, and allowing the ball to roll out into the palm. The tube, having served its purpose, is got rid of into the profonde, and the ball is either slipped into the mouth or retained in the hand, according to the mode in which it is intended to be produced.

The performer steps forward with a pistol in one hand and a ramrod in the other, holding a small amount of gunpowder wrapped in soft paper between the second and third fingers of his right hand. He offers the pistol and the ramrod for inspection.410 While they are being examined, he asks, “Can anyone here help me with a little gunpowder?” No one responds, so he addresses a mild-mannered elderly gentleman, saying, “Perhaps you can assist me, sir?” The elderly gentleman naturally replies that he doesn’t usually carry gunpowder with him. “I’m sorry,” says the performer, “but I believe you have a small packet of powder tucked under your coat collar. May I?” He gently reaches under the collar and produces the small packet. He hands this to the person holding the pistol, asking them to load it. While they pour in the powder, the performer drops his left hand to the pochette and palms a small bag of bullets, which he then pulls out from a gentleman’s hat or a lady’s muff. He asks the person who added the powder to select and mark one of the bullets. As this happens, he takes the pistol in his left hand, holding it with the muzzle pointing upwards. As he casually moves it to his other hand, he secretly drops the little tube in, open end up. After the spectator chooses and marks the bullet, he is asked to place it in the pistol himself for extra certainty. A tiny piece of paper is added as a wad, and the performer then takes the pistol and rams it down. The bullet, of course, has fallen into the little tube, and since the ramrod fits tightly within it, when withdrawn, both the tube and the bullet come out together. The tube and ramrod are designed to match (usually black, but sometimes brass or silver-plated); thus, the tube doesn't easily attract attention. However, the performer keeps it hidden by holding the rod at that end, covering the tube with his hand. He then hands the pistol to a spectator, asking him to hold it muzzle up until he gives the signal to fire. The performer moves to the411 farthest part of the stage, and during this short walk, he discreetly takes possession of the bullet. He does this by quickly pulling the ramrod away with his left hand, leaving the tube open in his right and letting the bullet roll into his palm. Once the tube has served its purpose, it is disposed of into the profonde, and the bullet is either slipped into his mouth or kept in his hand, depending on how he intends to reveal it.

N A muff, being open at each end, is an excellent thing whence to produce any small article—e.g., a borrowed watch, a ball, etc. For this purpose the performer should take hold of one end of the muff with the hand in which is palmed the article in question, which is immediately allowed to slide gently through the muff, and is stopped by the other hand. If this is neatly done, the keenest eye cannot detect the deception.

N A muff, being open at both ends, is a great tool for producing small items—e.g., a borrowed watch, a ball, etc. For this trick, the performer should grip one end of the muff with the hand holding the item, which should then slide smoothly through the muff and be caught by the other hand. If done carefully, even the sharpest observer won't catch on to the trick.

Some performers use several small bullets. In our own opinion, a single ball of tolerable size is not only more manageable, but more effective. The mode of producing the bullet also varies. Some, instead of producing it in the mouth, hold up a china plate by way of target, the bullet being held under the two first fingers against the front of the plate. When the pistol is fired, the plate is turned horizontally, and the bullet released from the fingers. This plan is sometimes to be preferred, inasmuch as it creates an excuse for leaving the stage for a moment to fetch the plate, an opportunity which is valuable in the event, which sometimes happens, of the ball, from an excess of wadding or any other cause, not dropping readily from the tube into the hand. To meet this possible difficulty, some tubes have (to use an Irishism) a small hole through the closed end, so that the performer, on leaving the stage, can, by pushing a piece of wire through the hole, instantly force out the bullet.

Some performers use several small bullets. In our opinion, a single bullet of a reasonable size is not only easier to handle but also more effective. The way of producing the bullet also varies. Some, instead of creating it in the mouth, hold up a china plate as a target, with the bullet held under the first two fingers against the front of the plate. When the pistol is fired, the plate is turned horizontally, and the bullet is released from the fingers. This method is sometimes preferable because it creates a reason to leave the stage for a moment to get the plate, which is useful if, for some reason, the bullet doesn’t drop easily from the tube into the hand. To address this potential issue, some tubes have a small hole through the closed end, so that the performer, upon leaving the stage, can push a piece of wire through the hole and immediately force out the bullet.

Fig. 246.

The Birth of Flowers.—There are two or three different tricks which go by this name. Of one of them we may dispose in a very few words. It is purely a mechanical trick, having neither ingenuity of construction nor dexterity of manipulation to recommend it. The apparatus consists of a cover a (see Fig. 246), a base c, and an intermediate portion b, connected with a by means of a bayonet-catch; c is beforehand partially filled with earth, and in b, the top of which is perforated with small holes, is inserted a natural or artificial plant, or bouquet of flowers. The cover a is placed over b, and the apparatus is ready. The performer, drawing attention to c, pretends to sow some magic seed therein. He then places a over it, and pretending to warm it with his hands, commands the seeds to germinate. Releasing the bayonet-catch, he removes the cover, and shows the flowers apparently just springing from the earth412 in c. In some of the smaller sizes of this apparatus the bayonet-catch is dispensed with, the mere pressure of the fingers on the sides of a being sufficient to lift off b with it.

The Birth of Flowers.—There are a couple of different tricks that go by this name. One of them can be described in just a few words. It’s a purely mechanical trick, lacking any clever design or skillful handling. The setup includes a cover a (see Fig. 246), a base c, and a middle part b, connected to a with a bayonet-catch; c is partially filled with soil in advance, and b, which has small holes at the top, holds a natural or artificial plant, or a bouquet of flowers. The cover a is placed over b, and the setup is ready. The performer draws attention to c and pretends to plant some magic seeds in it. He then puts a over it and pretends to warm it with his hands, commanding the seeds to sprout. Releasing the bayonet-catch, he lifts off the cover to reveal the flowers that seem to just bloom from the soil in c. In some smaller versions of this trick, the bayonet-catch is not needed; simply pressing on the sides of a is enough to lift b along with it.

The trick which we are about to describe under the same title is one of a composite nature, and one which, proceeding from marvel to marvel, produces in good hands a great effect. It is divided into three portions—first, the production of a single flower, then of a handsome bouquet, and lastly, of a large basket of flowers. The performer comes forward with his wand in one hand, and in the other a little box, in reality quite empty, but containing, as he asserts, magic seeds, capable of producing on the instant the choicest flowers. “I will first show you, ladies and gentlemen, their effect in the simplest form. In the hurry of coming here this evening, I omitted to provide a flower for my button-hole. You will see how easily, by the aid of the magic seed, I can supply the deficiency. What shall it be? Clematis, rose, geranium? Suppose we say a rose. I take a single seed from my box—ah, here is a rose-seed—and place it in my button-hole.” (He applies the supposed seed to the button-hole.) “I breathe on it to supply the necessary warmth. I wave my wand—Once! twice! thrice! The seed has blossomed, you see, into a handsome rose.”

The trick we're about to describe is a bit of a mix and, when done right, can create a fantastic effect. It's divided into three parts—first, the creation of a single flower, then a beautiful bouquet, and lastly, a large basket of flowers. The performer steps forward, holding a wand in one hand and a small box in the other, which is actually empty but claims to hold magical seeds that can instantly produce beautiful flowers. “I will first show you, ladies and gentlemen, how they work in the simplest way. In my rush to get here tonight, I forgot to bring a flower for my button-hole. You will see how easily I can fix that with the magic seed. What should it be? Clematis, rose, geranium? Let’s go with a rose. I take a single seed from my box—ah, here’s a rose seed—and place it in my button-hole.” (He applies the supposed seed to the button-hole.) “I blow on it to give it some warmth. I wave my wand—Once! twice! thrice! The seed has blossomed, as you can see, into a beautiful rose.”

The explanation of this pretty little trick is exceedingly simple. The preliminary preparation is made as follows:—Through the centre of an artificial rose, without stalk, a short piece (about ten inches) of thin black elastic is passed, and secured by a knot on the inside of the flower. The other end is passed through the button-hole (from the outside), and thence through an eyelet-hole made for the purpose in413 the breast of the coat, immediately under the button-hole. The extreme end is looped over a button sewn on the waistcoat about the region of the waistband. The tension of the elastic naturally draws the flower close against the button-hole, while yet allowing it, when necessary, to be drawn away from it to a distance of several inches. The performer, before coming forward to perform the trick, draws the rose away from the button-hole, and places it under the left armpit, whence, so long as the arm is kept close to the side, it cannot escape. When he waves his wand, with the words, “Once, twice, thrice!” he makes the first motion facing to the right, the second fronting the audience, and the third facing slightly to the left, at the same time striking the button-hole with the wand, and throwing up the left arm, when the flower, released, instantly springs to the button-hole, the slight turn to the left completely covering the manner of its appearance.

The explanation of this cute little trick is really simple. Here’s how to prepare: Take a short piece (about ten inches) of thin black elastic and thread it through the center of an artificial rose without a stem, securing the end with a knot inside the flower. The other end goes through the button-hole from the outside and then through an eyelet-hole made for this purpose in413 the breast of the coat, just below the button-hole. The end is looped over a button sewn on the waistcoat near the waistband. The elastic's tension pulls the flower close to the button-hole, but it can be pulled away from it to several inches when needed. Before the performance, the magician pulls the rose away from the button-hole and tucks it under the left armpit, keeping it from escaping as long as the arm stays close to the side. When he waves his wand and says, “Once, twice, thrice!” he makes the first motion facing right, the second facing the audience, and the third slightly left, while tapping the button-hole with the wand and raising his left arm. At that moment, the flower is released and immediately springs to the button-hole, with the slight turn to the left completely concealing how it appears.

Fig. 247.

But the trick is not yet over. “You see, ladies and gentlemen, that I am not dependent on Covent Garden for a rose for my button-hole; but you will naturally say, ‘Ah! the magic seed may be all very well for a single flower, but what if you wanted a complete bouquet?’ I hasten to show you that this is equally within my power. Will some one oblige me with the loan of a hat by way of hothouse? Thank you. Here; you observe, is an ordinary drinking-glass” (this has, meanwhile, been placed on the table by the assistant), “in which I will drop, haphazard, a pinch of the magic seed.” This he does with the left hand, the right being occupied with the hat, and then, with the glass in the left hand and the hat in the right, comes forward to the audience, requesting a lady spectator to breathe upon the glass, which he immediately afterwards covers with the hat. He now requests the same or another spectator to count ten, to allow the mesmeric influence time to operate, and then, removing the hat, shows a handsome bouquet (natural or artificial) in the glass. Returning the hat, and handing the glass and flowers for inspection, he borrows a silk pocket-handkerchief, or,414 in default of procuring one from the audience, uses one of his own, brought forward by the assistant. Drawing it ropewise through his hands to show that it is empty, he spreads it before him, holding it by two of its corners. Having exhibited one side of it, he spreads the other, when the shape of something solid is seen to define itself beneath it, and the handkerchief being removed, a large round basket of flowers (see Fig. 247), ten or more inches in diameter by two deep, is revealed.

But the trick isn't over yet. “You see, ladies and gentlemen, I’m not reliant on Covent Garden for a rose for my buttonhole; but you might say, ‘Sure, the magic seed might work for a single flower, but what if you want an entire bouquet?’ I’m here to show you that’s just as easy for me. Could someone lend me a hat to use as a greenhouse? Thank you. Now, you can see that this is a regular drinking glass” (this has been placed on the table by the assistant), “into which I will randomly drop a pinch of the magic seed.” He does this with his left hand while his right hand holds the hat, then, holding the glass in his left hand and the hat in his right, he steps forward to the audience, asking a lady in the crowd to breathe on the glass, which he then covers with the hat. He asks the same or another spectator to count to ten, allowing the mesmeric effect to take place, and then, lifting the hat, he reveals a beautiful bouquet (either real or artificial) in the glass. After returning the hat and handing the glass and flowers for inspection, he borrows a silk handkerchief, or, if he can’t find one from the audience, he uses his own, brought by the assistant. He pulls it through his hands to show that it’s empty, then spreads it in front of him, holding it by two corners. After showing one side, he reveals the other, and the shape of something solid appears beneath it, and when the handkerchief is lifted, a large round basket of flowers (see Fig. 247), measuring ten inches or more across and two deep, is uncovered.

The reader, with his present knowledge, will probably have already conjectured the mode in which the bouquet is brought into the glass. It is beforehand placed at the left hand corner of the servante, the stem slanting upwards at an angle of about 45°. When the performer, standing at the left hand side of the table, drops the imaginary seed into the glass with his left hand, his right, holding the hat, drops for a moment to the level of the table, and clips between the second and third fingers the stem of the bouquet, when, by simply bending the fingers, the bouquet is brought into the hat after the manner of the cannon-ball. (See page 305.) When the hat is placed over the glass, the bouquet is naturally brought into the latter.

The reader, with their current knowledge, will likely have already guessed how the bouquet is brought into the glass. It is placed beforehand at the left corner of the servante, with the stem angled upward at about 45 degrees. When the performer, standing on the left side of the table, drops the imaginary seed into the glass with their left hand, their right hand, holding the hat, drops momentarily to table level and pinches the stem of the bouquet between the second and third fingers. By simply bending the fingers, the bouquet is brought into the hat like a cannonball. (See page 305.) When the hat is placed over the glass, the bouquet naturally falls into it.

We may here mention that there are bouquets of a special and rather ingenious construction, enabling the performer, in the act of producing the bouquet from a hat in the above or any similar trick, to cause it suddenly to expand to three or four times its original size. The bouquet is in this case made of artificial flowers, stitched on a framework forming a kind of miniature parasol, with a very short handle. The bouquet, when introduced into the hat, has a slightly conical shape, but the performer in withdrawing it puts up the parasol, so to speak, thereby spreading it to twelve or fourteen inches’ diameter.

We should mention that there are bouquets designed in a clever way that allow the performer, during the act of pulling the bouquet from a hat in this or similar tricks, to make it suddenly expand to three or four times its original size. This bouquet is made of artificial flowers stitched onto a framework that creates a sort of miniature parasol with a very short handle. When placed into the hat, the bouquet has a slightly conical shape, but as the performer pulls it out, they essentially open the parasol, spreading it to a diameter of twelve or fourteen inches.

Fig. 248.
Fig. 249.

The production of the basket of flowers from the handkerchief is produced by wholly different means, and will require a somewhat minute explanation. In the first place, the flowers are secured to the sides of the baskets by silk or wires, so that they cannot fall out, in whatever position the basket is placed. To the basket are attached two black silk threads. The one (which we will call a) is about eighteen inches in length, and is attached to a button on the performer’s415 waistband, immediately above the front of the left thigh. Obviously, therefore, the basket, if fastened by this thread alone, would hang down loosely in front of the performer’s left knee. The second thread (which we will call b, and which is attached to the edge of the basket at a few inches’ distance from the first) is only three or four inches in length, and serves to suspend the basket behind the back of the performer (concealed by his coat) until the proper moment for its appearance. For this purpose it has a small loop or ring at the loose end, and this is attached by means of a strong short needle, after the manner shown in Figs. 248 and 249 (the latter representing a slightly enlarged view of the attachment), to the waistband of the performer. The needle carries a third thread c, which, passing through the cloth of the trousers, is brought round and attached to the centre button of the waistband, being concealed by the edge of the waistcoat. The modus operandi will now be easily understood. The basket is in the first instance suspended by the thread b. The performer, while spreading the handkerchief before him, ostensibly to show that it is empty, crooks the little finger under the edge of his waistcoat, and pulls c, thereby withdrawing the needle, and detaching b. The basket, being no longer held back by b,416 falls, but is compelled by a to swing round in front of the performer, who, while lifting it, still covered by the handkerchief, breaks a, and thus altogether releases it. The object of passing the needle through the cloth of the trousers is that it may not fall forward and be seen when c is pulled.

The way the basket of flowers comes out of the handkerchief is done using completely different techniques and needs a bit of detailed explanation. First, the flowers are attached to the sides of the basket with silk or wires, so they can’t fall out, no matter how the basket is positioned. Two black silk threads are connected to the basket. One (let’s call it a) is about eighteen inches long and is attached to a button on the performer’s waistband, right above the front of the left thigh. So, if the basket is only secured by this thread, it would hang loosely in front of the performer’s left knee. The second thread (which we’ll call b, and which is connected to the edge of the basket a few inches away from the first one) is only three or four inches long and holds the basket behind the performer’s back (hidden by their coat) until it’s time to reveal it. For this purpose, it has a small loop or ring at the end, which is attached using a strong short needle, as shown in Figs. 248 and 249 (the latter showing a slightly larger view of the attachment), to the performer’s waistband. The needle carries a third thread c, which goes through the fabric of the trousers, wraps around, and attaches to the center button of the waistband, concealing it behind the edge of the waistcoat. Now, the method will be easy to understand. Initially, the basket is held up by thread b. While showing the handkerchief in front of him as if demonstrating that it’s empty, the performer curves his little finger under the edge of his waistcoat and pulls c, which removes the needle and loosens b. With b no longer holding it back, the basket drops but is pulled by a to swing in front of the performer, who lifts it while it is still covered by the handkerchief, breaking a and completely freeing it. The reason for passing the needle through the trouser fabric is to prevent it from falling forward and being visible when c is pulled.

The contrivance last above described is the invention of Robert-Houdin, slightly simplified, however, inasmuch as he employed, in place of the needle, a little wire bolt working on a metal plate attached to the back of the waistcoat; but the principle in either case is precisely the same.

The device mentioned earlier is the invention of Robert-Houdin, though it has been slightly simplified. Instead of using a needle, he used a small wire bolt that operates on a metal plate attached to the back of the waistcoat; however, the principle in both cases is exactly the same.

Fig. 250.

The Mysterious Salver.—This is a tin tray (see Fig. 250), ornamentally japanned, and of about twelve inches in diameter. There is a space of about three-quarters of an inch between the upper and under surfaces of the tray, at one side of which, under cover of the curled rim, is an opening of about three inches in width. Within this opening, so placed as to be within easy reach of the fingers of any person holding the tray, are two wire hooks, marked a and b in the figure. On gently pulling hook a, a little hammer c rises up at right angles to the surface of the tray, again falling back by the action of a spring as soon as the pull is relaxed. On pulling b, a similar movement is communicated to a sort of ladle d, sunk in the surface of the tray, and rising up in a direction parallel to that of the little hammer already mentioned. This ladle has a flat tin cover, hinged very loosely upon its outer edge (so as to open of its own accord when the ladle passes the perpendicular position), and japanned in such manner as to represent one of a circle of medallions forming417 part of the pattern of the tray, and therefore little likely to attract attention. If any small article be beforehand placed in the ladle, and b be pulled, the article will naturally be flung out upon the surface of the tray. In practice, however, the salver is always used in conjunction with a little glass tumbler, about three inches in height, which, being placed upon the medallion opposite to that which forms the cover of the ladle, the contents of the latter fall into the glass instead of upon the tray.

The Mysterious Tray.—This is a tin tray (see Fig. 250), decorated with a shiny finish and about twelve inches in diameter. There’s a gap of about three-quarters of an inch between the top and bottom surfaces of the tray. On one side, under the curled rim, there’s an opening about three inches wide. Inside this opening, easily reachable by anyone holding the tray, are two wire hooks labeled a and b in the figure. When you gently pull hook a, a small hammer c pops up at a right angle to the tray's surface and then falls back down due to a spring as soon as you stop pulling. Pulling b does something similar with a ladle d, which is set into the surface of the tray and rises up parallel to the little hammer. This ladle has a flat tin cover that's loosely hinged on the outer edge (so it opens by itself when the ladle is upright) and is painted to look like one of the medallions in the tray’s pattern, making it blend in. If a small item is placed in the ladle beforehand and you pull b, the item will be flung out onto the tray. However, in practice, the salver is always used with a small glass tumbler about three inches tall. This tumbler, placed on the medallion opposite the ladle's cover, catches the contents of the ladle instead of letting them fall on the tray.

The salver is generally used somewhat after the following fashion:—A little round brass box, say an inch and a half in diameter and an inch deep, is handed to the audience, with a request that they will place any small article (such as a coin, a ring, a watch-key) in it. All necessary precautions are taken to prevent the performer knowing what the articles in question are, and the box is, for still greater security on this point, wrapped by the performer in a handkerchief, and handed to one of the audience to hold. The reader, with his present knowledge of the little faith that is to be put in the acts of magicians, however apparently straightforward, will readily conjecture that at this point there is a substitution. The performer, apparently wrapping up the box which has just been handed to him, really substitutes another of similar appearance, sewn in one corner of the handkerchief. This latter, which contains two or three metal buttons, or other objects adapted to cause a rattling when shaken, is so arranged that when the lid is pushed home a piece of cork within is pressed down upon the buttons, and they are made silent; but if the lid be raised ever so little, and the box shaken, they rattle. This latter is the condition in which the box is wrapped in the handkerchief.

The tray is typically used in a manner like this:—A small round brass box, about an inch and a half in diameter and an inch deep, is handed to the audience, asking them to place any small item (like a coin, a ring, or a watch key) inside it. All necessary precautions are taken to ensure the performer doesn't know what the items are, and to further ensure this, the performer wraps the box in a handkerchief and gives it to a member of the audience to hold. Given the reader's current understanding of how little trust can be placed in the methods of magicians, no matter how simple they seem, it’s easy to guess that a switch is happening at this point. The performer, while appearing to wrap the box just handed to him, actually replaces it with another that looks very similar, which is sewn into one corner of the handkerchief. This second box contains two or three metal buttons or other items that make noise when shaken and is arranged so that when the lid is pushed down, a piece of cork inside presses down on the buttons, silencing them; however, if the lid is lifted even slightly and the box is shaken, they will rattle. This is how the box remains wrapped in the handkerchief.

The performer, leaving the dummy box, wrapped up as above, with the spectator, retires for a moment in order to fetch the salver. This gives him the opportunity to take the articles out of the box, to note what they are (we will suppose a ring, a florin, and a locket), and place them in the “ladle” of the salver. The empty box he places in one of his pochettes. He now brings forward the glass and salver, together with a paper lamp-shade (similar to those placed over the lights of a billiard table), wherewith to cover the salver while the supposed flight of the objects takes place. He first418 shows that there is nothing in his hands, on the salver, or in the glass, and then places the latter in its proper position, and covers the whole with the paper shade. His assistant holds the salver, using both hands, with his right in such a position as to have control of the hooks a and b. The performer requests the person holding the box to shake it, in order to show that the articles are still there. He then addresses the company to the following effect:—“Ladies and gentlemen, allow me to remind you of the position of affairs. Some articles, unknown to me, have been placed by yourselves in a box. That box has not been in my possession, even for a moment, but has remained ever since in the hands of the gentleman who is now holding it. Here, as you see, is a little glass” (he raises the shade with the left hand), “perfectly empty. I shall now, by virtue of my magic power, order the articles in the box, whatever they may be, to leave the box, and fall into this little glass, and I will tell you by the sound of each as it falls what the article is. Let us try the experiment. First article, pass!” The assistant pulls a, and the little hammer c forthwith strikes the glass, simulating to some extent the sound of a small article falling therein. “That, by the sound, should be a coin, I should say a florin. Hold tight, sir, please. Second article, pass!” Again the assistant causes the hammer to strike the glass. “That, ladies and gentlemen, is a ring. You must hold tighter yet, sir, if you mean to defy my power. Third article, pass!” This time the assistant pulls b, causing the ladle d to rise, and to shoot out the three articles together into the glass. “That, I should say, was a lady’s locket. Fourth article, pass!” (This is a mere blind, and elicits no response.) “Ladies and gentlemen, there were three articles placed in the box, a ring, a florin, and a locket, and you will find that they have now all passed into the glass.” (He removes the shade, and shows that they have done so.) “May I trouble you once more to shake the box?” The repeated injunctions to hold tighter have naturally caused the holder to press the lid home, and the box is therefore silent, corroborating the assertion that the articles have departed. “Now, ladies and gentlemen, having conjured away the contents, I shall now proceed to conjure away the box; but this time, by way of variety, I will do it visibly. Attention!” He takes one corner of the handkerchief with his right hand.419 “Now, sir, when I say ‘Three,’ will you please drop the handkerchief. One, two, three!” The performer shakes the handkerchief and pulls it rapidly through his hands till the corner containing the box comes into the left hand, the box having apparently vanished. “The box has gone, you see, but where? that is the question. Pardon me, sir, you have it in your pocket, I think,” addressing some elderly gentleman of innocent aspect. With the handkerchief still dangling from his left hand, the performer thrusts the other hand into the waistcoat or breast-pocket of the individual in question, and produces from thence the missing box, which he has a moment previously palmed from the pochette.

The performer, leaving the dummy box wrapped up as mentioned, briefly steps away with the spectator to grab the tray. This allows him to take the items out of the box, note what they are (let's say a ring, a florin, and a locket), and put them in the "ladle" of the tray. He then puts the empty box in one of his pochettes. He brings forward the glass and tray, along with a paper lampshade (like those used over billiard table lights), to cover the tray while the supposed disappearance of the objects happens. He first418 shows that there’s nothing in his hands, on the tray, or in the glass, then positions the glass properly and covers everything with the paper shade. His assistant holds the tray with both hands, positioning the right hand to control the hooks a and b. The performer asks the person holding the box to shake it to confirm the items are still inside. He then addresses the audience: “Ladies and gentlemen, let me remind you of the situation. Some items, unknown to me, have been placed by you in this box. I haven’t touched that box at all; it has been in the hands of the gentleman holding it. Here is a little glass” (he lifts the shade with his left hand), “completely empty. I will now, through my magic powers, command the items in the box, whatever they might be, to leave the box and fall into this little glass. I will announce what each item is by the sound it makes as it falls. Let’s try it out. First item, go!” The assistant pulls a, and the little hammer c promptly strikes the glass, mimicking the sound of a small item landing in it. “That sound suggests a coin, I’d say a florin. Hold tight, please, sir. Second item, go!” Again the assistant makes the hammer hit the glass. “That, ladies and gentlemen, is a ring. You need to hold on tighter, sir, if you intend to resist my magic. Third item, go!” This time the assistant pulls b, causing the ladle d to lift and release all three items into the glass. “That should be a lady’s locket. Fourth item, go!” (This is just a distraction and gets no response.) “Ladies and gentlemen, there were three items in the box: a ring, a florin, and a locket, and you’ll see they've now all ended up in the glass.” (He lifts the shade to reveal this.) “Could I ask you to shake the box one more time?” The repeated requests to hold tighter have naturally led the holder to press the lid down firmly, making the box silent, which confirms the items have vanished. “Now, ladies and gentlemen, having made the contents disappear, I will now make the box disappear as well, but this time, for variety, I’ll do it visibly. Focus!” He takes one corner of the handkerchief with his right hand.419 “Now, sir, when I say ‘three,’ please drop the handkerchief. One, two, three!” The performer shakes the handkerchief and quickly pulls it through his hands until the corner holding the box is in his left hand, appearing to make the box vanish. “The box is gone, but where? That’s the question. Excuse me, sir, I think you have it in your pocket,” addressing an elderly man who looks innocent. With the handkerchief still hanging from his left hand, the performer reaches into the waistcoat or breast pocket of the man in question and produces the missing box, which he had secretly taken from the pochette moments earlier.

The weak point of the trick, as above performed, is the sound of the hammer on the glass, which is but a poor imitation of that of coins, or the like, falling into it. In some trays the hammer is altogether dispensed with, the performer himself holding the tray, and the necessary sound being produced by the assistant actually dropping a coin into a glass behind the scenes, as near the standing place of the performer as possible. This latter plan is much to be preferred.

The weak point of the trick, as described earlier, is the sound of the hammer hitting the glass, which doesn't really sound like coins or something similar falling into it. In some setups, the hammer is completely left out, with the performer holding the tray while the assistant actually drops a coin into a glass behind the scenes, as close to where the performer stands as possible. This latter method is definitely the better choice.

A further improvement consists in the use, in place of the salver, of a small round table, or guéridon, made on the same principle (without the hammer), and worked by pulling a string from behind the scenes. With a little dexterity, the articles may be introduced into the “ladle,” while in the act of placing the glass upon the table, or of moving the latter to the front of the stage, though it is more usual to do this behind the scenes, and then to bring the table forward, as described in the case of the salver.

A further improvement is to use a small round table, or guéridon, instead of the salver. This table is designed using the same principle (without the hammer) and is operated by pulling a string from backstage. With a bit of skill, items can be introduced into the “ladle” while putting the glass on the table or moving the table to the front of the stage. However, it’s more common to do this behind the scenes and then bring the table forward, similar to how it was done with the salver.

The trick may be varied by borrowing four half-crowns or florins, duly marked, which, being exchanged, and their substitutes placed in the half-crown casket (see page 202), are thence made to pass one by one into the glass.

The trick can be changed up by using four half-crowns or florins, properly marked, which, when exchanged, and their replacements put in the half-crown box (see page 202), are then made to go into the glass one by one.

The Vanishing Die.—The effect of this trick, in its simplest shape, is merely to make a die, some three inches square, pass through the crown of a hat, and be found inside. The trick in this form is but a poor and transparent affair, but it is sometimes useful as affording a pretext for borrowing a hat which you design to make use of420 for some other purpose; and it furnishes the germ of two or three really effective illusions. The apparatus consists of three portions—a solid wooden die, generally painted black with white spots, a tin counterpart thereof,—fitting loosely over it, and exactly similar in appearance, but with one side open,—and an ornamental cover of thin pasteboard (sometimes this also is of tin), fitting in like manner over the hollow die. The trick is worked very much after the manner of the “cone,” recently described. The performer comes forward, having the solid die in the one hand, and the cover, with the tin counterpart within it, in the other. Placing these on the table, he borrows two hats, which he likewise places on the table, mouth upwards. “Ladies and gentlemen,” he commences, “I have here a block of wood” (he lets it fall on the floor, the sound sufficiently indicating its solidity, and again picks it up), “and a cover of simple pasteboard.” He places the cover over it, as if merely suiting the action to the word, and in again removing it, leaves the tin die over the solid one. “If any one would like to examine it, he is perfectly welcome to do so. I have here also two hats, borrowed haphazard from the audience, and, as you can all see, perfectly empty, and not prepared in any way. Now I propose to make this solid die” (he tosses it carelessly into one of the hats, and again apparently takes it out, but really takes out the hollow shell only) “pass right through the crown of one of these hats, and fall into the other.” He places the hats one upon the other, mouth to mouth, and the tin shell, with the opening downwards, upon the uppermost. “Here is the die, which I cover, thus. Now, at my command it shall pass downwards through the hat. One, two, three! Pass! See, the cover is empty” (taking it up with gentle pressure, so as to lift the shell with it, and placing both on the end of his wand, proving, apparently, that the cover is empty), “and here, in the lower hat, is the die. Let us try the experiment again. I will replace the die in the lower hat. One, two, three! Pass!” He lifts the cover, without pressure, leaving the hollow die on the upper hat. “It has obeyed, you see. Once more. One, two, three! Pass!” Again the cover is empty, and again the die has passed into the lower hat.

The Disappearing Die.—The basic concept of this trick is simply making a die, about three inches square, pass through the top of a hat and appear inside it. On its own, this trick is not very impressive, but it can be useful as an excuse to borrow a hat that you plan to use for something else; it also serves as the foundation for a couple of more effective illusions. The setup includes three components—a solid wooden die, typically painted black with white spots, a tin version that fits loosely over it and looks exactly the same except that one side is open, and a decorative cover made of thin pasteboard (sometimes this is also made of tin) that fits over the hollow die in a similar way. The trick is performed much like the “cone” trick described earlier. The performer steps up holding the solid die in one hand and the cover, which contains the tin die, in the other. He sets these on the table and borrows two hats, placing them mouth-up on the table as well. “Ladies and gentlemen,” he starts, “I have here a block of wood” (he drops it to the floor, the sound clearly showing its solidity, then picks it up again), “and a cover made of simple pasteboard.” He places the cover over the die as if simply matching his actions to his words, and when he removes it, the tin die is left over the solid one. “If anyone wants to examine it, feel free to do so. I also have two hats borrowed randomly from the audience, and as you can see, they are completely empty and not altered in any way. Now, I’m going to make this solid die” (he casually tosses it into one of the hats, then pretends to take it out but actually pulls out the hollow shell) “pass right through the crown of one of these hats and land into the other.” He stacks the hats one on top of the other, mouth to mouth, placing the tin shell opening down on the top hat. “Here is the die, which I will cover up like this. Now, on my command, it shall pass down through the hat. One, two, three! Pass! Look, the cover is empty” (he lifts it gently, also raising the shell with it, and places both onto the tip of his wand, showing that the cover is indeed empty), “and here, in the lower hat, is the die. Let’s try that again. I’ll put the die back in the lower hat. One, two, three! Pass!” He lifts the cover without any pressure, leaving the hollow die on the upper hat. “See, it has obeyed. Once again. One, two, three! Pass!” Again the cover is empty, and once more the die has moved into the lower hat.

The Die Dissolving in a Pocket Handkerchief.—The trick421 last described has two drawbacks—first, that it is very generally known, and, second, that the principle is rather too obvious, the secret being very easily guessed, even by persons not endowed with special sagacity. There is, however, an improved form of the same trick, in which an additional element is introduced, whereby these disadvantages are, to a great extent, removed.

The Die Melting in a Pocket Handkerchief.—The trick421 described earlier has two main issues—first, it is widely known, and second, the principle is quite obvious, making the secret easy to guess, even by people who aren't particularly sharp. However, there's an upgraded version of the same trick that adds another element, which largely addresses these drawbacks.

Fig. 251.

The apparatus used is the same as in the last case, with the addition of a coloured handkerchief, prepared as follows: Five square pieces of stout pasteboard, each a shade larger than one side of the solid die, are joined together with hinges of tape or cloth, in the form shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 251. The centre piece, a, is attached to the middle of the handkerchief, the others being allowed to hang loose upon their respective hinges. A second handkerchief of similar pattern is then laid upon the first, and the edges of the two are stitched together all round.

The equipment used is the same as in the previous case, with the addition of a colored handkerchief, prepared as follows: Five square pieces of sturdy cardboard, each slightly larger than one side of the solid die, are connected with tape or cloth hinges, in the pattern shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 251. The center piece, a, is attached to the middle of the handkerchief, while the others are allowed to hang loosely on their respective hinges. A second handkerchief of similar design is then placed on top of the first, and the edges of both are stitched together all around.

Fig. 252.

The performer having exhibited the solid die and cover, as already explained, and having removed the latter (with the hollow die within it), places it upon the table. Spreading the prepared handkerchief beside it, he places the solid die upon the centre of the handkerchief, and gathering up the four corners of the latter, lifts it, bag-fashion, with his left hand, the four loose flaps of pasteboard naturally folding themselves up around the die. He now takes it with his right hand, clipping the solid die within the pasteboard, and turns the whole over as in Fig. 252, thus bringing the die uppermost, with the folds of the422 handkerchief hanging down around it. He next takes in the left hand a borrowed hat, holding it up for a moment, to show that it is empty. Then, turning it mouth upwards, he remarks, “I will place the die here in the hat.” Suiting the action to the word, he lowers his hand into the hat, but, as if suddenly bethinking himself, he says, “No! I won’t use the hat at all. Perhaps some one will kindly hold the die.” In withdrawing his hand, however, he relaxes the pressure of his fingers, thereby leaving the solid die in the hat, though as the folded pasteboard retains its cubical shape, the handkerchief still appears to contain the die. Grasping it immediately below the folded shape, he gives the handkerchief in charge to one of the spectators, who is directed to hold it in like manner. The hat he places carelessly upon the table. He now once more lifts the cover with the hollow die, rattling his wand within it to show that it is empty. Again replacing it, he commands the die to pass from the handkerchief under the cover. The person holding the handkerchief is asked if he felt it depart, but he naturally maintains that it is still in the handkerchief. “You are mistaken,” says the professor; “what you see is merely the ghost of the die still clinging to the handkerchief. Allow me!” and taking one corner he requests the owner to drop the handkerchief, which he then shakes out, exhibiting both sides to show that the die has vanished. He then lifts the cover, and shows the hollow die, which the spectators take to be the genuine one, and concludes the trick by finally commanding the die thus shown to pass into the hat; which, on being turned over, is found to contain the solid die, while the hollow die is again raised with the cover, and the latter shown apparently empty.

The performer, having shown the solid die and cover, as explained before, removes the cover (which has the hollow die inside it) and places it on the table. He spreads a prepared handkerchief next to it, puts the solid die in the center of the handkerchief, and then gathers up the four corners of the handkerchief, lifting it like a bag with his left hand, allowing the four loose flaps of cardboard to naturally fold around the die. He then holds it with his right hand, enclosing the solid die within the pasteboard, and flips the whole thing over as in Fig. 252, revealing the die on top, with the handkerchief's folds hanging around it. Next, he takes a borrowed hat in his left hand, holds it up for a moment to show that it's empty, and then, turning it mouth up, says, “I’ll place the die in here.” Acting on his words, he lowers his hand into the hat, but suddenly remembers and says, “No! I won’t use the hat at all. Maybe someone can hold the die.” As he pulls his hand back, he loosens his grip, leaving the solid die in the hat, while the folded pasteboard keeps its cube shape, making it still look like the handkerchief holds the die. He then grabs the handkerchief right below the folded shape and hands it over to a spectator, directing them to hold it that way. The hat is casually placed on the table. He lifts the cover with the hollow die, shaking his wand inside to show it’s empty. After placing it back, he commands the die to pass from the handkerchief to the cover. He asks the person holding the handkerchief if they felt it leave, and they understandably insist that it’s still in there. “You’re mistaken,” says the professor; “what you see is just the ghost of the die still hanging on the handkerchief. Let me!” He takes one corner and asks the owner to drop the handkerchief, which he then shakes out, revealing both sides to show that the die has disappeared. He then lifts the cover and shows the hollow die, which the spectators believe to be the real one, and finishes the trick by commanding this die to pass into the hat; when he turns it over, it contains the solid die, while the hollow die is lifted again with the cover, which is shown to be apparently empty.

423

423

The Die and Orange.—The die in this instance is about three and a half inches square. It has the usual ornamental tin or pasteboard cover, but there is an additional item of apparatus employed, a square wooden box, with hinged lid, and of such a size as just to contain the die. The effect of the trick is as follows:—The die is brought forward in the box, the performer holding the square cover in his other hand. The die being then taken out of the box, and placed on the table, the box is shown empty, and the cover placed over the die. The performer, having mysteriously procured an orange from the hair or whiskers of a spectator, drops it into the box, which is then closed. He now asks the spectators, in order to impress the facts on their memory, where they suppose the two articles to be. They naturally answer that they are where they have just seen them placed; or, if they venture to question this, the performer raises the cover and opens the box, and shows that die and orange both remain in statu quo. He now commands the two articles to change places. Lifting the cover, the die is found to have disappeared, the orange having taken its place, and, on opening the box, it is seen to contain the die, which is taken out, and exhibited on all sides to the company. The die and orange, being again covered over, at command change places as often as the company please.

The Die and the Orange.—In this case, the die is about three and a half inches square. It has the usual decorative tin or cardboard cover, but there’s an extra piece of equipment used: a square wooden box with a hinged lid, just big enough to hold the die. Here’s how the trick works: The die is presented in the box, while the performer holds the square cover in the other hand. The die is then taken out of the box and placed on the table, the box is shown to be empty, and the cover is placed over the die. The performer mysteriously produces an orange from a spectator’s hair or whiskers and drops it into the box, which is then closed. He asks the audience where they think the two items are, making sure to emphasize the question. They naturally answer that they are where they just saw them. If anyone questions this, the performer lifts the cover and opens the box, showing that both the die and orange remain unchanged. He then commands the two items to switch places. Lifting the cover, the audience finds that the die has vanished and the orange has taken its place, and when the box is opened, the die is revealed inside, which is then shown to everyone. The die and orange are covered again, and at the performer’s command, they switch places as many times as the audience desires.

The reader will doubtless have conjectured that there are in reality two dice and two oranges. The box when first brought forward contains in reality two hollow dice, one within the other. The smaller and innermost (the one which is afterwards taken out and placed under the cover) is placed in the box with its open side towards the hinges, and contains an orange. The performer takes it out, taking care, of course, that the orange does not fall out, and places it (open side downwards) upon the table. The cover is now placed over it, and, if lifted with pressure, lifts the hollow die with it, and reveals the orange; but if lifted by the button on top, so that the sides are not pressed, it leaves the die covering the orange.

The reader has probably guessed that there are actually two dice and two oranges. When the box is first shown, it really contains two hollow dice, one inside the other. The smaller one (the one that is later taken out and put under the cover) is positioned in the box with its open side facing the hinges and holds an orange. The performer takes it out, making sure that the orange doesn’t fall out, and places it (open side down) on the table. The cover is then placed over it, and if lifted with pressure, it raises the hollow die along with it and reveals the orange; however, if lifted by the button on top, so that the sides aren’t pressed, it leaves the die covering the orange.

We now return to the box. This contains a second hollow die, so placed that the open side is upwards, and the box therefore appears to be empty. The lid, however, contains a sixth side, exactly fitting the open space, and thus making the die complete. This moveable side is alternately made to form a lining to the lid or to form part of424 the die, according as a little button on the lid is moved in one or another direction. Both the true lid and this moveable portion of it are lined with looking-glass, so as to show no difference of appearance, whether the box is exhibited empty or as containing the die. When the sixth side is made to form part of the die, the latter may be completely removed from the box, and shown on all its sides without betraying the secret, the orange for the time being remaining enclosed within it.

We now go back to the box. It has a second hollow die inside, positioned with the open side facing up, making the box look empty. However, the lid has a sixth side that perfectly fits the open space, completing the die. This movable side can either act as a lining for the lid or as part of the die, depending on whether a small button on the lid is pressed in one direction or the other. Both the actual lid and this movable section are lined with mirror material, so there’s no visible difference whether the box is shown as empty or holding the die. When the sixth side is part of the die, the entire die can be taken out of the box and shown from all angles without revealing the secret, with the orange still kept inside it for the time being.

It is a good plan to have a solid die matching those used in the trick, to be, if necessary, substituted and handed round for inspection. If the performer uses a trap-table, it has a very good effect to conclude the trick by causing the orange under the cover to fall through the trap, and then, lifting the cover and hollow die together, to show by rattling the wand within, that both die and orange have altogether vanished.

It’s a good idea to have a solid die that matches the ones used in the trick, so it can be swapped out and shown to the audience if needed. If the performer uses a trap-table, it looks really impressive to end the trick by making the orange fall through the trap under the cover, and then, by lifting the cover and the hollow die together, to demonstrate by shaking the wand inside that both the die and the orange have completely disappeared.

Fig. 253.

The Vanishing Canary Bird and Cage.—This is another favourite die trick. The performer exhibits a canary bird in a little oblong brass cage, measuring six inches by four. He next exhibits a die three inches square, showing all sides to prove that it is solid. This he places upon a tray, which is held by the assistant, and covers it with a fancy cover as already described. He now throws a handkerchief over the cage. Bringing it forward thus covered to the company, he orders the cage to vanish, the die to pass into a borrowed hat, and the bird to appear upon the tray in place of the die. No sooner said than done; he waves the handkerchief, which is seen to be empty, and on raising the cover the bird is found under it; while, on turning over the hat, out falls the die.

The Disappearing Canary and Cage.—This is another favorite magic trick. The performer shows a canary bird in a small brass cage, measuring six inches by four. He then displays a die that’s three inches square, ensuring all sides are visible to prove it's solid. He places the die on a tray held by the assistant and covers it with a decorative cloth as previously explained. Next, he drapes a handkerchief over the cage. Bringing it forward while covered, he commands the cage to disappear, the die to go into a borrowed hat, and the bird to appear on the tray in place of the die. No sooner said than done; he waves the handkerchief, which is seen to be empty, and when he lifts the cover, the bird is revealed underneath; meanwhile, turning over the hat causes the die to fall out.

Fig. 254.

The disappearance of the cage, which is of the form shown in Fig. 253, will be readily understood by any reader who has followed425 the description of the “flying glass of water” described at page 367. The handkerchief used is double, and contains in its centre, stitched between the two surfaces, an oblong wire frame, in size and shape exactly corresponding with the top of the cage. When the performer throws the handkerchief over the cage on the table, he takes care to bring this wire shape immediately over the cage. When he apparently lifts the cage under the handkerchief, which he does standing behind his table, he really lifts the handkerchief only, distended by the hidden wire, and with the other hand he gently lowers the cage out of sight upon the servante.

The disappearance of the cage, which looks like the one shown in Fig. 253, will be easily understood by anyone who has followed the description of the “flying glass of water” mentioned on page 367. The handkerchief used is double-layered and has an oblong wire frame stitched in the center, matching the size and shape of the top of the cage. When the performer throws the handkerchief over the cage on the table, he makes sure to position this wire shape directly over the cage. While he seemingly lifts the cage under the handkerchief, which he does while standing behind the table, he is actually just lifting the handkerchief, which is supported by the hidden wire, and with his other hand, he gently lowers the cage out of sight onto the servante.

Fig. 255.

So much for the disappearance of the cage; but it yet remains to be explained how the bird comes to be found under the cover in place of the die. This is effected as follows:—There are two dice, the one solid, the other of hollow tin, and having one side wanting, but capable of being closed at pleasure by means of a sliding lid, also of tin, which supplies the missing side, and is painted accordingly. The outer edge of this lid is folded over outwards in a semicircular form. (See Fig. 254). The tray used (see Fig. 255) is of tin, japanned, and of ordinary appearance, but has a square piece of tin, of the same size426 as one of the sides of the die, soldered upon its centre at about one-sixteenth of an inch above the surface. Three of its sides are soldered to the tray, the fourth being left open. The centre of the tray is ornamentally japanned, in such manner as to conceal this special arrangement.

So much for the disappearance of the cage; but it still needs to be explained how the bird ends up under the cover instead of the die. Here's how it works: There are two dice, one solid and the other made of hollow tin, which is missing one side but can be closed at will with a sliding lid made of tin that covers the missing side, and it's painted accordingly. The outer edge of this lid is folded outward in a semicircular shape. (See Fig. 254). The tray used (see Fig. 255) is made of japanned tin and looks pretty ordinary, but it has a square piece of tin, the same size as one of the die's sides, soldered to its center about one-sixteenth of an inch above the surface. Three sides of this piece are soldered to the tray, while the fourth side is left open. The center of the tray is decorated in such a way as to hide this special setup.

Fig. 256.

A duplicate bird is beforehand placed in the hollow die, which is then closed, and placed either upon the servante or in one of the secret pockets of the performer, who, having borrowed a hat, secretly slips the hollow die into it, and places it on the table mouth upwards. He now brings forward and offers for inspection the solid die, the cover, and the birdcage, placing the latter when returned upon his table, rather towards the hinder edge. “The die,” he carelessly remarks, “I will place in this hat” (suiting the action to the word); “or, better still, I will place it upon this tray, so that you may be able to keep sight of it throughout the trick.” So saying, he again takes out apparently the same, but really the hollow die, and places it on the tray with the moveable side downwards, in such manner as to hook the turned-over portion of that side into the open edge of the corresponding square upon the tray, and places the cover over it. Handing the tray to his assistant, he proceeds to cause the disappearance of the birdcage from the handkerchief, as already described. This done, he advances to the tray, and lifts the cover with the hollow die within it, first, however, sliding away cover and die together towards the opposite end of the tray (see Fig. 256), and thereby leaving behind upon the centre of the tray the moveable slide, the interior of which is japanned so as to correspond with the centre pattern of the tray, and thus does not attract any attention.

A duplicate bird is first placed in the hollow die, which is then closed and set on either the servante or in one of the performer’s hidden pockets. After borrowing a hat, he secretly slips the hollow die into it and puts the hat on the table with the opening facing up. He then brings forward and offers to show the solid die, the cover, and the birdcage, placing the birdcage back on the table closer to the back edge. “I’ll put the die in this hat,” he casually says, doing just that; “or better yet, I’ll set it on this tray so you can keep an eye on it throughout the trick.” He then pulls out what looks like the same die but is actually the hollow one, placing it on the tray with the movable side facing down so that the turned-over part catches the edge of the square on the tray, and then covers it. Handing the tray to his assistant, he goes on to make the birdcage disappear from the handkerchief, as described earlier. Once that’s done, he approaches the tray and lifts the cover with the hollow die inside, but first, he slides both the cover and the die towards the far end of the tray (see Fig. 256), leaving the movable slide in the center of the tray. The interior of the slide is painted to match the central pattern of the tray, so it doesn’t draw any attention.

The solid die, having remained in the hat, may readily be produced when required.

The solid die, which has stayed in the hat, can easily be taken out when needed.

The Decanter and the Crystal Balls.—The routine of this trick, as practised by different performers, varies a good deal. We propose to describe it in two forms, the first being as nearly as possible that which was adopted by Robert-Houdin.

The Decanter and the Crystal Balls.—The way this trick is done by different performers varies quite a bit. We will describe it in two versions, the first one being as close as possible to what Robert-Houdin used.

First Method.—The apparatus in this case consists of four glass balls (two of plain glass an inch and a half in diameter, one of ruby-coloured glass of the same size, and one of plain glass, three-quarters427 of an inch in diameter) and a decanter of clear glass, with a hollow or “kick” underneath it just large enough to admit one of the larger balls. The decanter is two-thirds filled with port or claret, and is brought forward with the red ball beneath it, in the hollow we have mentioned, and is placed on the performer’s table. The remaining balls are disposed as follows: the two large balls in the performer’s left pochette, and the small one in the pochette on the other side. Thus provided, the performer comes forward, wand in hand. Taking the wand carelessly in his right hand, he says, “Ladies and gentlemen, I have already given you some proofs of the singular powers of this wand, but I do not know whether I have drawn your attention to one remarkable faculty which it possesses, viz., that if I strike anything with it, at the same time mentally calling for any object, that object is instantly produced from the article touched. Let us put it to the test.” (He pulls back his coat-sleeves, showing indirectly, by a careless gesture, that his hands are empty.) “For the purpose of the trick I am about to show you, I require a crystal ball. Now, observe, I give but one gentle touch, not here upon the table” (he raps the table with his wand), “where you might suspect some mechanism or preparation, but here in my empty hand, and instantly, you see, a ball appears at my bidding.” As he touches the table with the wand, thereby drawing the eyes of the spectators in that direction, he carelessly drops his left hand to his side, and takes from the pochette and palms one of the plain glass balls, which as soon as the wand reaches his hand he produces at the finger-tips. “The ball, as you see, ladies and gentlemen, is of solid crystal, without crack or flaw” (he takes it in the right hand, tosses it up, and catches it again). “The hardest steel would fail to chip it, and yet, by my magic power, I am able instantly to divide it into two equal portions, each round and true as the original.” At the moment of tossing the ball in the air, all eyes are naturally attracted to it, and the performer has ample opportunity to again drop the left hand to his side, and palm the second ball. Keeping this in the palm of the left hand, he transfers the first ball to the finger-tips of the same hand. Drawing the wand across it, he allows it to drop into the palm, and to strike against the ball already there. Rubbing his palms together, as if to mould the divided ball into shape, he shows the two balls, professedly the428 divided portions of the first. Taking one in each hand, he continues, “I undertook to make the divided portions exactly equal, but I have not succeeded so well as usual. It seems to me that this one is rather the larger, what say you, ladies and gentlemen?” He places the two balls on the table, side by side, as if for comparison, and carelessly dropping the right hand to his side, palms between the second and third fingers (see page 273), the small ball. “Yes, this one is certainly the larger, but I can easily rectify the mistake by pinching a little piece off.” Taking the ball in the left hand, he pretends to pinch off a portion from it with the right, at the same time letting the little ball fall to the finger-tips of the latter. He replaces the large ball on the table, rolling the little ball between the fingers, as though to give it roundness. “No, that one is still the biggest, I haven’t taken quite enough yet. I must take a little more; or, better still, I will add this little piece to the smaller one.” Taking the supposed smaller ball in the left hand, he pretends to squeeze the little one into it, presently letting the latter fall behind it into the palm of the left hand, and replacing the two larger balls side by side on the table, dropping the little ball at the first opportunity into the pochette. He continues, “I think they are now about right. The reason why I have been so particular about it is that I am about to pass one of these balls into the other, which I could not have done unless they had been of exactly the same size. Now which of them shall I pass into the other? It is for you to decide.” He has meanwhile moved so as to be behind his table, standing sideways, with his right side to the table. Whichever ball the company decides is to be passed into the other, he takes in his right hand, immediately afterwards taking the other in the left hand, which he holds aloft, following it with his eyes. Stretching back the right arm, as though to give an impetus to the ball, he drops it into a padded box, or basket, placed upon the servante to receive it, immediately afterwards bringing the right hand with a semicircular sweep upon the left, and rolling the ball the latter contains between the palms, as though to press the one ball into the other; and presently showing that the hands now contain one ball only.

First Method.—The setup in this case consists of four glass balls (two plain glass balls that are one and a half inches in diameter, one ruby-colored glass ball of the same size, and one plain glass ball that's three-quarters of an inch in diameter) and a clear glass decanter with a hollow or “kick” underneath just big enough to fit one of the larger balls. The decanter is two-thirds filled with port or claret and is brought forward with the red ball underneath it, sitting in the hollow mentioned earlier, and placed on the performer’s table. The remaining balls are arranged as follows: the two large balls in the performer’s left pochette, and the small one in the pochette on the opposite side. With everything in place, the performer steps forward, wand in hand. He casually holds the wand in his right hand and says, “Ladies and gentlemen, I’ve already shown you some of the unique powers of this wand, but I’m not sure if I’ve pointed out one remarkable ability it has, namely that if I strike something with it, while mentally calling for any object, that object instantly appears from the item touched. Let’s test it.” (He rolls back his coat sleeves, subtly indicating, with a casual gesture, that his hands are empty.) “For the trick I’m about to perform, I need a crystal ball. Now, notice that I give just one gentle touch, not here on the table” (he taps the table with his wand), “where you might think there's some mechanism or trick, but here in my empty hand, and instantly, you see, a ball appears at my command.” As he taps the table with the wand, directing the spectators' attention there, he casually drops his left hand to his side and takes one of the plain glass balls from the pochette, which he then produces at his fingertips as soon as the wand reaches his hand. “The ball, as you can see, ladies and gentlemen, is solid crystal, flawless” (he takes it in his right hand, tosses it up, and catches it again). “The hardest steel couldn’t chip it, yet, with my magic power, I can instantly divide it into two equal parts, each round and true just like the original.” At the moment he tosses the ball in the air, all eyes go to it, giving the performer the chance to drop his left hand again to his side and palm the second ball. He keeps this ball in his left hand and transfers the first ball to his fingertips on the same hand. Drawing the wand across it, he allows it to drop into the palm, where it strikes against the ball already there. Rubbing his palms together, as if trying to mold the divided ball into shape, he shows the two balls, claiming they’re the428 divided portions of the first. Taking one in each hand, he continues, “I promised to make the divided portions exactly equal, but it seems I’ve not done quite as well as usual. It appears to me that this one is a bit larger; what do you think, ladies and gentlemen?” He places the two balls on the table side by side for comparison, casually dropping his right hand to his side and palming the small ball between his second and third fingers (see page 273). “Yes, this one is definitely larger, but I can easily fix that by pinching off a tiny piece.” He takes the ball in his left hand, pretends to pinch a piece off with his right, while letting the small ball fall to the fingertips of the latter. He puts the large ball back on the table, rolling the little ball between his fingers, as if to shape it. “No, that one is still the biggest; I haven’t taken enough yet. I need to take a little more; or, even better, I’ll add this tiny piece to the smaller one.” Taking the supposed smaller ball in his left hand, he pretends to squeeze the little one into it, while secretly letting the latter fall behind into the palm of his left hand, then replacing the two larger balls side by side on the table and dropping the little ball into the pochette at the first opportunity. He adds, “I think they’re about right now. The reason I’ve been so focused on this is that I’m about to pass one of these balls into the other, which I couldn’t do unless they’re exactly the same size. Now, which one should I pass into the other? It’s up to you to decide.” Meanwhile, he has positioned himself behind his table, standing sideways with his right side to the table. Whichever ball the audience decides should be passed into the other, he takes in his right hand, and then takes the other in his left hand, holding it up and following it with his gaze. Stretching back his right arm as if to give the ball a push, he drops it into a padded box or basket placed on the servante to receive it, and then brings his right hand in a semicircular motion over to the left, rolling the ball in his left hand between his palms, as if to press the one ball into the other; and soon demonstrates that his hands now contain only one ball.

Fig. 257.

The same effect may be produced without the aid of the table, as follows:—Taking both the balls in his right hand, as in Fig. 257,429 the performer covers them with the left hand, retaining as he does so ball a with the thumb, but allowing ball b to roll down the left sleeve, which, with a little practice, will be found by no means difficult. He now rubs the palms together, as if rubbing the one ball into the other, and then separating them shows that the two balls have become transformed into one only. This he exhibits in the right hand, and while the eyes of the company are attracted to the ball, lowers the left arm, allowing the ball to run down the sleeve into the hand, whence it is immediately dropped into the pochette on that side.

The same effect can be achieved without using the table, as follows:—Holding both balls in his right hand, as in Fig. 257,429 the performer covers them with his left hand, keeping ball a with his thumb, while letting ball b roll down his left sleeve, which, with a bit of practice, is not difficult at all. He then rubs his palms together, as if merging the two balls, and when he separates them, he shows that the two balls have merged into just one. He holds this in his right hand, and while the audience is focused on the ball, he lowers his left arm, letting the ball slide down his sleeve into his hand, from where it is quickly dropped into the pochette on that side.

The next step is the supposed colouring of the ball. The performer continues, “Ladies and gentlemen, having proved to you my perfect control over the ball in respect of size, I propose to show you that I have equal mastery over it in respect of colour. This I shall do by passing it into this bottle of wine, which being red, the ball will become red also. Had the bottle contained a blue liquid, you would have found the ball become blue, and so on. The ball” (he takes it in his left hand, and apparently transfers it to his right by the tourniquet, keeping the right hand closed as if containing it, and dropping it from the left into the pochette on that side) “is considerably larger than the neck of the bottle. This, in a natural way, would be rather a difficulty, but to a magician it will give very little trouble. I have only to squeeze the ball a little” (he lifts the bottle with the left hand, at the same time slipping the little finger underneath it, to prevent the red ball beneath it falling, and holding the right hand an inch or two above it, works the hand as if compressing the ball), “and it gradually becomes smaller and smaller, till it melts completely into the bottle.” He opens the right hand, and shows it empty, immediately afterwards shaking the bottle, and allowing the ball beneath to rattle slightly. “The ball is now in the bottle, as you see; the next step is to get it out, and it is rather difficult to do this without at the same time allowing the wine to escape. However, we will try. I430 have no doubt that by a strong effort of will I shall be able to manage it.” He now takes the bottle between his hands, holding it so that the two little fingers are beneath, and after a little shaking, allows the ball to drop, as if through the bottle. This may be varied by holding the bottle with the left hand only, and striking the mouth with the palm of the other, allowing the ball to drop at the third stroke, professedly expelled by the compression of the air.

The next step is the supposed coloring of the ball. The performer continues, “Ladies and gentlemen, having demonstrated my perfect control over the ball in terms of size, I now want to show you that I have equal mastery over its color. I will do this by passing it into this bottle of wine, which is red, so the ball will become red as well. If the bottle contained a blue liquid, you’d see the ball turn blue, and so on. The ball” (he takes it in his left hand and seemingly transfers it to his right using the tourniquet, keeping the right hand closed as if holding it, and dropping it from the left into the pochette on that side) “is considerably larger than the neck of the bottle. This would naturally present quite a challenge, but for a magician, it poses very little trouble. I just need to squeeze the ball a little” (he raises the bottle with his left hand, simultaneously slipping his little finger underneath to prevent the red ball from falling out, while keeping his right hand an inch or two above it, moving his hand as if compressing the ball), “and it gradually gets smaller and smaller until it completely melts into the bottle.” He opens his right hand, showing it empty, and then shakes the bottle, letting the ball underneath rattle slightly. “The ball is now in the bottle, as you can see; the next step is to get it out, and it’s a bit tricky to do this without also letting the wine escape. However, we’ll give it a shot. I430 have no doubt that with a strong effort of will, I can manage it.” He now takes the bottle between his hands, holding it so that his little fingers are underneath, and after a little shaking, allows the ball to drop, as if falling through the bottle. This can also be done by holding the bottle with just the left hand and striking the mouth with the palm of the other, letting the ball drop on the third stroke, supposedly expelled by the compression of the air.

Fig. 258.

Second Method.—The balls used in this instance are five in number, two large, one of each colour; two small, one of each colour, and one (a trifle larger than these latter), of which one half is red, and one half white. The decanter is replaced by an ordinary wine bottle (see Fig. 258), prepared as follows:—A tin tube, a, three inches in length, closed at the bottom, but open at the top, is made to fit within the neck (just so tightly, that it cannot fall out of its own accord), its upper edge being turned over all round, and japanned black, so that when placed in the bottle it may be undistinguishable from the actual neck. The cavity at the bottom of the bottle is filled with a resinous cement, in such manner as only to leave room for one of the larger balls. The tube is beforehand filled with port or claret, and placed in the neck. The bottle itself, which, if not naturally opaque, must be rendered so by an interior coating of black japan, should be nearly filled with water. Thus prepared, it is brought forward and placed on the table. The balls are disposed as follows: the two white ones in the left pochette of the performer, the two red ones and the parti-coloured ball in the pochette on the other side.

Second Method.—In this case, there are five balls: two large, one of each color; two small, one of each color; and one slightly larger ball that is half red and half white. Instead of a decanter, an ordinary wine bottle is used (see Fig. 258), prepared like this:—A tin tube, a, three inches long, is closed at the bottom but open at the top, fitting snugly within the neck of the bottle (so tightly that it won't fall out on its own). The upper edge is folded over all around and painted black, making it look just like the actual neck when placed in the bottle. The bottom of the bottle is filled with a resinous cement, leaving just enough space for one of the larger balls. The tube is filled with port or claret beforehand and placed in the neck. The bottle itself, which needs to be opaque if it isn’t already, should have an inner coating of black paint and be nearly filled with water. Once ready, it is brought to the table. The balls are arranged as follows: the two white ones in the left pochette of the performer, and the two red ones along with the multi-colored ball in the pochette on the other side.

Coming forward to the audience, the performer produces the large white ball, either as described in the first form of the trick, or from his wand in manner described at page 276. While showing it in his left hand, he drops the right hand to his side, and palms the large red ball. Laying the white ball on his table, he remarks, “I have here a bottle of wine. We will begin by testing its genuineness.” He lifts431 the bottle by the neck with the left hand, immediately transferring it to the right (which grasps it round the bottom), and introduces beneath it the red ball, which is thenceforth kept in position by the little finger. Taking in the other hand a wine-glass (which should be of such a size as just to contain the contents of the tube), he fills it with wine, and hands it to one of the company. In returning to his table, he secretly withdraws the tube. (This is easily done by grasping the bottle round the neck with the left hand, and gently drawing it downwards with the right, the turned over portion of the tube being clipped by the finger and thumb of the left hand, in which it naturally remains.) As the performer passes behind the table, he gets rid of the tube by dropping it on the servante. In placing the bottle on the table, he is of course careful not to expose the red ball underneath it. Taking the white ball in his left hand, he proposes to turn it red, and for that purpose to pass it into the bottle. Pretending to transfer it to the right hand by the tourniquet, he drops it from the left hand into the padded tray on the servante, and then apparently passes it into the bottle, as above. The routine of getting it out of the bottle again is the same as above described in relation to the first method.

Stepping forward to the audience, the performer reveals the large white ball, either as mentioned in the first version of the trick or from his wand as described on page 276. While displaying it in his left hand, he lets his right hand drop to his side and secretly palms the large red ball. Placing the white ball on the table, he says, “I have here a bottle of wine. We’ll start by confirming its authenticity.” He lifts the bottle by the neck with his left hand, immediately switching it to his right hand, which holds it by the bottom, and introduces the red ball beneath it, securing it with his little finger. With his other hand, he takes a wine glass (which should be just the right size to hold the contents of the tube), fills it with wine, and hands it to someone in the audience. When returning to his table, he inconspicuously removes the tube. (This is easily done by grasping the neck of the bottle with the left hand and gently pulling it down with the right hand, while the flipped portion of the tube is held by one finger and thumb of the left hand, where it naturally stays.) As he moves behind the table, he discards the tube by dropping it on the servante. When placing the bottle on the table, he makes sure not to reveal the red ball hidden underneath it. Taking the white ball in his left hand, he claims he will turn it red by putting it into the bottle. Pretending to transfer it to his right hand using the tourniquet, he drops it from his left hand into the padded tray on the servante, and then seemingly places it into the bottle as described before. The process of getting it out of the bottle again follows the same method as explained in the first technique.

We may, however, here note a variation in practice. Some performers, instead of introducing the red ball under the bottle at the outset of the trick, as above described, make no attempt to bring it under the bottle until after the white ball is supposed to have been passed into the wine, when the performer, raising the bottle with the left hand, transfers it to the right, and brings the ball under it, retaining it there with the little finger until he thinks fit to allow it to drop, pretending to squeeze the bottom of the bottle as if to force it out.

We can, however, point out a difference in practice here. Some performers, instead of placing the red ball under the bottle right at the beginning of the trick, wait until after the white ball is supposed to have been put into the wine. Then, the performer lifts the bottle with their left hand, switches it to the right hand, and brings the ball under it, holding it in place with their little finger until they decide to let it drop, pretending to squeeze the bottom of the bottle as if trying to push it out.

After having produced the red ball, the performer remarks, “Perhaps, ladies and gentlemen, you imagine that I have not really passed the ball through the bottle, and that the effect is, in reality, produced by the substitution of a different coloured ball. Let me assure you that so truly is the wine in the bottle, and nothing else, the cause of the change of colour, that you will find on examination that every particle of colour has left the wine, its whole virtue having been absorbed by the ball. Supposing for a moment that I could have432 exchanged the ball, you will hardly imagine that I could exchange the liquid in the bottle, which has been proved to be good old wine. Will the same gentleman who tried it before be good enough to taste it now?” Taking another glass, he fills it from the bottle, which is now found to contain nothing but water.

After making the red ball, the performer says, “Maybe, ladies and gentlemen, you think that I didn’t actually pass the ball through the bottle, and that the effect is really just from switching in a different colored ball. Let me assure you that the wine in the bottle is indeed the cause of the color change, and you will see upon inspection that every bit of color has left the wine, all its properties having been absorbed by the ball. Just for a moment, let’s say I could have switched the ball; you probably wouldn’t believe I could switch the liquid in the bottle, which has been confirmed to be good old wine. Will the same gentleman who tested it earlier be kind enough to taste it now?” Taking another glass, he fills it from the bottle, which is now found to hold nothing but water.

The performer, meanwhile, has again palmed the white ball, which he next produces, as being a new one, from his wand. Comparing the red and the white together, he pretends to discover that the red is the largest, and therefore pinches from it a small portion (the small red ball). He now discovers that he has taken too much, and that the red ball is now the smaller. He therefore pinches a second piece (the small white ball) from the white one, and finally rolls the two little balls thus obtained into one, producing the parti-coloured ball. The mode of producing these last effects will present no difficulty to any one who has attentively studied the description of the first form of the trick.

The performer has again hidden the white ball in his hand, which he then reveals as if it’s a brand new one from his wand. He holds up the red and white balls side by side and pretends to notice that the red one is bigger, so he pinches off a small piece from it (the small red ball). Then he acts surprised that he took too much, realizing that the red ball is now smaller. So, he pinches off a second piece (the small white ball) from the white one and finally rolls the two small balls he just got into one, producing a multi-colored ball. Anyone who has carefully studied the description of the first version of the trick will find it easy to replicate these final effects.

The Flags of all Nations.—This is, in good hands, a very pretty and effective trick, but requires considerable neatness of manipulation. Its effect is as follows:—The performer comes forward with a couple of miniature silk flags, measuring, say, three inches by two. Taking one in each hand, he brings the hands together, and begins to wave them backwards and forwards, when the flags are seen to multiply, the two being suddenly transformed into a dozen, quickly increasing to a still larger number. Not only do the flags increase in number, but in size also, until perhaps a couple of hundred have been produced, ranging in dimensions from one or two inches square to a foot or even larger, and of six or eight different colours.

The Flags of All Nations.—This is, in skilled hands, a really charming and effective trick, but it requires a lot of precision. The effect is as follows:—The performer steps forward with two miniature silk flags, measuring about three inches by two. Holding one in each hand, he brings his hands together and starts waving them back and forth. Suddenly, the flags seem to multiply, with the two transforming into a dozen, and quickly growing to an even larger number. Not only does the number of flags increase, but their size does too, until there may be a couple of hundred produced, ranging in size from one or two inches square to a foot or even larger, in six or eight different colors.

This seeming marvel rests on a very slight foundation. The flags to be produced are of coloured tissue-paper, with flagstaffs made of wire, or of the “bass” of which scrubbing-brooms are made, so as to occupy very little space. These are rolled up together in little parcels, like with like, according to size. Thus arranged, they are placed, the smaller ones in the sleeve of the performer, and the larger ones about his person, with the ends just inside the breast of his waistcoat. While waving the first two flags backwards and forwards, he433 gets one of the parcels from the sleeve into his hands, immediately unrolling and developing it, when the two flags appear to have multiplied into fifty. Under cover of these, he draws down from the sleeve another parcel, which he develops in like manner, and after the sleeves are exhausted has recourse to the fresh store within the waistcoat. He all along takes care to retain in his hands a large and widespread bundle of the flags, which, being kept moving backwards and forwards, materially aids in covering the mode of production of the remainder.

This amazing trick is based on a very simple setup. The flags created are made of colored tissue paper, with flagpoles made of wire or the “bass” used for scrubbing brooms, designed to take up very little space. These are rolled up into small packages, sorted by size. Arranged this way, the smaller flags go in the performer's sleeve, and the larger ones are kept on his body, with the ends tucked just inside his waistcoat. While waving the first two flags back and forth, he takes one of the packets from his sleeve, quickly unfolds it, and suddenly the two flags seem to have multiplied into fifty. While hiding this, he pulls another packet from his sleeve and unfolds it in the same way; once the sleeves are empty, he reaches into the fresh supply inside his waistcoat. Throughout the performance, he makes sure to hold a large, spread-out bundle of flags, which, by being moved back and forth, helps to hide how he’s producing the rest.

The Umbrella Trick.—The performer comes forward with an umbrella, which may be either the common-place article of every-day life, or a brilliant fancy production, akin to Joseph’s coat of many colours. This he hands for inspection, and meanwhile borrows a lady’s handkerchief. The latter, for safe keeping, he places in an empty vase, which is left in full view of the company. The umbrella, duly examined, he places in a case, which may be either the ordinary glazed oilskin case, or a special apparatus prepared for the purpose. Whichever it be, the result is the same. On again uncovering the vase, the handkerchief has vanished, and in its place is found the silk covering of the umbrella. On removing the umbrella from its case, it is found to have lost its covering; but the handkerchief, torn in several pieces, is found fastened to its naked ribs, one piece to each. These are removed. Again the vase is covered, and the umbrella restored to the case. The torn fragments of the handkerchief are burnt, and their ashes invisibly passed into the vase; and on a new examination the two articles are found uninjured as at first.

The Umbrella Hack.—The performer steps forward with an umbrella, which can be either an ordinary, everyday item or a dazzling, colorful one like Joseph’s coat. He hands it out for inspection while borrowing a lady’s handkerchief. For safekeeping, he places the handkerchief in an empty vase that remains visible to everyone. After the umbrella is examined, he puts it in a case, which could be a regular, shiny oilskin case or a special setup for this trick. Regardless of which it is, the outcome is the same. When he uncovers the vase again, the handkerchief has disappeared, and in its place is the silk covering of the umbrella. Upon taking the umbrella out of its case, it is revealed to be missing its covering, but the handkerchief, now torn into several pieces, is attached to its bare ribs, with one piece on each. These pieces are removed. The vase is covered again, and the umbrella is put back in the case. The torn bits of the handkerchief are burned, and their ashes are discreetly added to the vase; when checked again, both items are found intact, just as they were at the start.

With reference to the transformation of the handkerchief in the vase, it will be only necessary to state that the vase employed is either the burning globe (see page 246), or the “pea vase” described at page 351. In either case a duplicate umbrella cover is placed in the second compartment, and thus the vase may be shown to contain either the handkerchief or the umbrella cover at pleasure.

With regard to the transformation of the handkerchief in the vase, it's only necessary to mention that the vase used is either the burning globe (see page 246), or the “pea vase” described on page 351. In either situation, a duplicate umbrella cover is put in the second compartment, allowing the vase to be shown to contain either the handkerchief or the umbrella cover as desired.

Fig. 259.
Fig. 260.

With regard to the umbrella, the reader will readily conjecture that an exchange is effected, but the mode of effecting it varies. If the ordinary glazed case is used, the umbrella is exchanged bodily for another, similarly encased, placed beforehand on the servante. This,434 however, requires some little dexterity, as an umbrella, from its length, is an awkward article to exchange; and this has led to the employment of cases specially constructed to effect the change. That most frequently used is an upright pillar of zinc or tin, oval in form, and open at the top, and so constructed as to stand upright without support (see Fig. 259). It is divided vertically into two compartments, in one of which is placed beforehand the second umbrella. Of course no one can be permitted to examine or even look into the case, which is a serious drawback to the effect of the trick. There is, however, another form of case sometimes employed, which is a trifle less objectionable. This is a wooden tube, about three feet long, and three and a half inches square. (See Fig. 260.) Like the case already described, it is closed at the bottom and open at the top, and divided vertically into two compartments, a and b. One or other of these, however, is always closed by the flap c, which by virtue of a spring is normally compelled to take the position shown in the figure, thus closing compartment b. When required for use, the second umbrella is placed in compartment a, and the flap c drawn back (as shown by the dotted line) so as to close a, in which position it is held by a little catch. The performer hands the genuine umbrella for inspection to one of the spectators, with a request that he will himself place it in the case. As soon as he has done so, the performer by a movement of his forefinger draws back the catch, and releases c, which flying back to the opposite position, shuts in the genuine umbrella, and reveals the substitute. When this apparatus is employed, the supposed restoration of the umbrella is omitted.

Regarding the umbrella, you'll quickly guess that an exchange happens, but the way it’s done varies. If a regular glass case is used, the umbrella is physically swapped for another one, also in a case, that’s been placed on the servante ahead of time. This, however, requires some skill since an umbrella, due to its length, is a tricky item to exchange; this has led to the use of specially designed cases for the swap. The most commonly used one is an upright pillar made of zinc or tin, oval-shaped, open at the top, and built to stand upright without support (see Fig. 259). It’s divided vertically into two sections, with the second umbrella placed in one of them beforehand. Naturally, no one is allowed to examine or even peek inside the case, which is a significant drawback to the trick’s effect. There’s, however, another type of case sometimes used that’s slightly less problematic. This is a wooden tube, about three feet long and three and a half inches square. (See Fig. 260.) Like the previously described case, it’s closed at the bottom and open at the top, divided vertically into two sections, a and b. One of these sections is always closed by flap c, which is held in place by a spring that forces it to stay closed as shown in the figure, thus sealing off section b. When needed, the second umbrella is placed in section a, and flap c is pulled back (as shown by the dotted line) to close a, where it is held by a small latch. The performer hands the real umbrella to a spectator for inspection, asking them to place it in the case. Once they do, the performer uses a finger to release the latch, which allows c to spring back to its original position, locking in the real umbrella and revealing the replacement. When this setup is used, the supposed restoration of the umbrella is skipped.

435 Some performers dispense with the use of the vase, and vanish and reproduce the borrowed handkerchief by sleight-of-hand, after one or other of the modes described in relation to handkerchief tricks.

435 Some performers skip using the vase and make the borrowed handkerchief disappear and reappear using sleight of hand, after one of the methods described in connection with handkerchief tricks.

The “Passe-Passe” Trick.—The trick which is specially designated by this name (which would appear to be equally applicable to about three parts of the tricks we have described) is as follows:—

The "Passe-Passe" Trick.—The trick referred to by this name (which seems to apply equally to about three-quarters of the tricks we've described) is as follows:—

The performer brings forward a bottle and a small tumbler, which he places side by side upon the table. Producing a couple of tin or pasteboard covers, ornamentally japanned, of a size to just go over the bottle, he places one of them over the bottle, and another over the glass. He now commands the two articles to change places, and on again removing the covers the glass and bottle are found to be transposed. Again he covers them, and again the change takes place; and this he repeats as often as he pleases, occasionally pouring out wine or other liquor, to show that the bottle is a genuine one, and not a mere make-believe.

The performer brings out a bottle and a small glass, which he sets next to each other on the table. He pulls out a couple of decorative tin or cardboard covers that fit over the bottle and the glass, placing one over the bottle and another over the glass. He then commands the two items to swap places, and when he removes the covers again, the glass and bottle have switched places. He covers them again, and once more the change happens; he repeats this as often as he wants, sometimes pouring out wine or another drink to prove that the bottle is real and not just a trick.

The reader will already have anticipated that there are in reality two bottles and two glasses. The bottles are of tin, japanned to resemble the ordinary black bottle, but with the bottom only about a couple of inches below the neck, leaving an open space beneath for the reception of the glass. Each bottle has near the bottom, at the side which is kept away from the audience, an oval opening or finger-hole, measuring about an inch and a half by one inch. When it is desired to lift the glass with the bottle, the middle finger is made to press on the glass through this opening, thereby lifting both together with perfect safety. The outer cover just fits easily over the bottles, and if lifted lightly leaves the bottle on the table, but if grasped with some little pressure, carries the bottle with it.

The reader will likely have expected that there are actually two bottles and two glasses. The bottles are made of tin, painted to look like a regular black bottle, but the bottom is only about a couple of inches below the neck, creating an open space underneath for the glass. Each bottle has, near the bottom on the side that faces away from the audience, an oval opening or finger-hole, measuring about an inch and a half by one inch. When it's time to lift the glass with the bottle, the middle finger pushes against the glass through this opening, allowing them to be lifted together safely. The outer cover fits snugly over the bottles, and if lifted lightly, it leaves the bottle on the table, but if grabbed with a bit more pressure, it lifts the bottle with it.

The mode of working the trick will now be readily understood. The bottle which is brought forward has a second glass concealed within it, kept in position, while the bottle is brought in, by the pressure of the finger. The cover which is placed over this bottle is empty. The other cover, which is placed over the glass, contains the second bottle, which, being hollow below, enables the performer to rattle his436 wand within it, and thus (apparently) to prove the cover empty. Having covered the glass and bottle, he raises the cover of the first very lightly, leaving the glass concealed by the second bottle, but lifts the other with pressure, so carrying the bottle with it, and revealing the glass which has hitherto been concealed within it. By reversing the process, the bottle and glass are again made to appear, each under its original cover. Where it is desired to pour wine from either bottle, the performer takes care, in lifting it, to press the glass through the finger-hole, and thus lifts both together. For obvious reasons the glass into which the wine is poured should be a third glass, and not either of the two which play the principal part in the trick.

The way to do the trick is now easy to understand. The bottle that’s presented has a second glass hidden inside it, held in place by the pressure of a finger while the bottle is brought forward. The cover placed over this bottle is empty. The other cover, which goes over the glass, holds the second bottle, which is hollow at the bottom, allowing the performer to shake his436 wand inside it, making it seem like he’s proving the cover is empty. After covering the glass and bottle, he gently lifts the cover of the first, leaving the glass hidden under the second bottle, but presses the other cover, which lifts the bottle along with it and reveals the glass that was hidden inside. By reversing the steps, the bottle and glass can again be made to appear, each under its original cover. When it’s time to pour wine from either bottle, the performer makes sure to press the glass through the finger-hole while lifting it, thus raising both together. For obvious reasons, the glass into which the wine is poured should be a third glass, not the two that are key to the trick.


437

437

CHAPTER XVII.
Stage Tricks.

The present Chapter will be devoted to such tricks as by reason of the cumbrousness or costliness of the apparatus required for them, are, as a rule, exhibited only upon the public stage. The stage performer may, if he pleases, avail himself of the aid of mechanical tables, electrical appliances, etc., which enable him to execute a class of tricks which are beyond the scope of an ordinary drawing-room performance, though the wealthy amateur will find no difficulty in converting his own drawing-room into a quasi-stage, and qualifying it for the presentation of the most elaborate illusions.

The current chapter will focus on tricks that, due to the bulkiness or high cost of the equipment needed, are typically only performed on public stages. A stage performer can, if they choose, use mechanical tables, electrical devices, and so on, allowing them to pull off tricks that are too complex for a regular drawing-room performance. However, a wealthy amateur can easily transform their own drawing room into a sort of stage, making it suitable for showcasing the most intricate illusions.

The leading items of apparatus in stage magic are mechanical tables. These are of various kinds, many being specially designed to assist in the performance of some one particular trick. Putting aside these, which will be separately noticed, stage tables may be broadly divided into three classes—trap tables, piston tables, and electrical tables. In practice, these classes are somewhat intermingled, for it is rather the rule than the exception for a stage table to be fitted with both traps and pistons, while either or both of these may be found in conjunction with electrical appliances.

The main pieces of equipment used in stage magic are mechanical tables. There are different types, many of which are specifically designed to help with certain tricks. Excluding those, which will be discussed separately, stage tables can be generally categorized into three groups—trap tables, piston tables, and electrical tables. In reality, these categories often overlap, as it's more common than not for a stage table to include both traps and pistons, and either or both might be integrated with electrical devices.

Trap tables are such as are provided with one or more “traps,” their object being, at the will of the operator, to cause the disappearance of a given article into the interior of the table, or sometimes to produce or apparently change an article. The traps most generally used may be described as follows:—

Trap tables come with one or more “traps,” allowing the operator to make a specific item disappear into the table or sometimes to create or seemingly alter an item. The traps that are most commonly used can be described as follows:—

Fig. 261.
Fig. 262.

1. The Plain Trap.—This consists of a thin plate of metal, generally zinc, screwed down flush with the top of the table. In this, which we will call the surface plate, is cut a hole, generally circular, and from two to four inches in diameter, closed by a flap or door,438 which by the action of a spring hinge is pressed up level with the rest of the trap, though it instantly yields to pressure from above, again rising as soon as such pressure is removed. Figs. 261 and 262 represent the trap as seen detached from the table, Fig. 261 exhibiting its under side. a is the circular flap, b b the spring hinge, c a little bolt by means of which the trap may be fastened at pleasure, and which is worked by a pin projecting upwards through a slot in the surface plate, and through the cloth which covers the table; d is a small flat piece of metal, screwed to the under side of the flap a, and acting as a “stop” to prevent the flap being forced by the action of the spring above the level of the surface-plate. The “mountings” of the trap are generally brass, and attached to the zinc by screws. A brass eyelet, e, is sometimes soldered to the centre of the under side of the flap. To this is attached a cord, which may hang down ready to the performer’s hand at the back of the table, or may be carried down a groove in one of the hinder legs, and either terminate in a pedal (to be pressed by the foot of the performer), or be continued behind the scenes within reach of the hand of the assistant. The mode of working the trap is as follows:—Any small article, being placed on it, is covered over (either with an ornamental cover or with a simple handkerchief). The cord being gently pulled by either of the means above mentioned, the trap opens, and the article falls into the body of the table. As soon as the pull is relaxed, the flap again rises and closes the opening. Where a cord is not used, the performer gets rid of the article by direct pressure on the trap, or the article upon it, with the one hand, while with the other he veils the opening in the table.

1. The Plain Trap.—This is a thin metal plate, usually made of zinc, that’s mounted flush with the top of the table. In this, which we'll call the surface plate, there’s a hole, typically circular and about two to four inches in diameter, covered by a flap or door,438 which is pushed up level with the rest of the trap thanks to a spring hinge. It gives way to pressure from above but pops back up as soon as the pressure is removed. Figs. 261 and 262 show the trap when it's taken off the table, while Fig. 261 shows its underside. a is the circular flap, b b is the spring hinge, c is a small bolt that lets the trap be locked in place, operated by a pin that sticks up through a slot in the surface plate and the cloth covering the table; d is a flat piece of metal attached to the underside of flap a, acting as a "stop" to keep the flap from being forced above the level of the surface plate by the spring. The trap is usually mounted with brass, secured to the zinc with screws. Sometimes, a brass eyelet, e, is soldered to the center of the underside of the flap. A cord can be attached to this eyelet, which may hang down, ready for the performer’s hand at the back of the table or run down a groove in one of the back legs, terminating in a pedal (to be pressed by the performer) or extending backstage within reach of an assistant’s hand. The trap works as follows: Any small item placed on it can be covered (either with a decorative cover or just a simple handkerchief). By gently pulling the cord in one of the ways mentioned earlier, the trap opens and the item drops into the body of the table. Once the pull is released, the flap rises and closes the opening. If there’s no cord, the performer can simply push down on the trap or the item on it with one hand while using the other hand to cover the opening in the table.

Fig. 263. Fig. 264.
Fig. 265.
Fig. 266.

2. The “Wrist” or “Pressure” Trap.—With this form of trap the439 use of a cord is unnecessary, the trap being worked from the surface of the table, by pressure upon a particular spot. The manner of its construction will become clear upon an inspection of Figs. 263, 264. Fig. 263 represents the under side of the trap; a is the flap, working upon a spring hinge b b, as already explained in the case of the plain trap; c c is an oblong piece of metal, cut out of and lying flush with the surface-plate, and working upon an ordinary hinge at d. When440 c is pressed down, the crosspiece e, which is soldered to it, presses down the lever f, and this in turn acting upon the shorter lever g, which is fixed at right angles to the rod upon which the flap a is hinged, causes the latter to open.

2. The “Wrist” or “Pressure” Trap.—With this type of trap, you don't need a cord; it operates from the surface of the table by applying pressure on a specific spot. You'll understand how it's built by looking at Figs. 263, 264. Fig. 263 shows the underside of the trap; a is the flap that moves on a spring hinge b b, as previously explained for the plain trap; c c is a rectangular piece of metal that is cut out from and lies even with the surface plate, moving on a standard hinge at d. When c is pressed down, the crosspiece e, which is attached to it, pushes down the lever f, which then acts on the shorter lever g, fixed at a right angle to the rod that the flap a is hinged on, causing it to open.

The mode of using the wrist trap is as follows:—The performer has occasion, we will suppose, to cause the disappearance of an orange, as for instance, in the “Bran and Orange” trick, described at page 335. Placing the orange upon the flap a, he places both hands round it as though to pick it up between them. (See Fig. 265.) In this position the under side of the hand furthest from the audience (see Fig. 266, showing the right hand removed), is just over c, and pressing gently upon it, causes the flap to open, and the orange to fall through; the position of the hands completely veiling the operation. The operator now leaves the table, still holding his hands as though having the orange between them, and after a due interval, brings them closer and closer together, at last showing that it has vanished.

The way to use the wrist trap is as follows: Let’s say the performer needs to make an orange disappear, like in the “Bran and Orange” trick, described on page 335. The performer places the orange on the flap a and puts both hands around it as if to pick it up. (See Fig. 265.) In this position, the underside of the hand furthest from the audience (see Fig. 266, which shows the right hand removed) is just over c. By pressing down gently on it, the flap opens and the orange falls through; the positioning of the hands completely hides this action. The performer then leaves the table, still holding the hands as if the orange is between them, and after a short pause, brings them closer together, finally revealing that it has disappeared.

Fig. 267.

The wrist trap is generally worked by the performer standing at the side of the table, and the traps are therefore made right-handed and left-handed, according to the end at which they are intended to be placed, the rule being that c must be so placed with reference to a, as to be when in use under the hand furthest from the spectators.441 Fig. 267 illustrates this difference of make, to suit the one or the other end of the table.

The wrist trap is typically operated by the performer standing beside the table, so the traps are designed to be either right-handed or left-handed, depending on which end they are meant to be used at. The rule is that c must be positioned in relation to a so that when in use, it is beneath the hand that is furthest from the audience.441 Fig. 267 shows this difference in design to accommodate either end of the table.

Fig. 268.

3. The “Rabbit” or “Dove” Trap.—This, as its name indicates, is a trap for causing the disappearance of a rabbit or pigeon. The opening is in this case oval, measuring about eight inches by six, and closed by a double flap, divided down the middle (see Fig. 268, representing the under side of the trap.) It has no string, the animal being simply pushed down through the trap under cover either of a second rabbit, or of a piece of paper in which the victim is supposed to be wrapped. As the rabbit trap requires considerable space, and, moreover, involves the necessity of some sort of an inclosure within the table to prevent an unexpected reappearance of the animal, it is a convenient plan to devote to it a small special table. This should be circular; about thirty-two inches in height, and sixteen to eighteen in diameter. The upper part of the table must form a circular wooden box, about eight inches in depth, with an opening behind to get out the rabbit. The table may, like the principal table, have a servante behind it, which will greatly increase its utility. The depth of the upper part may be concealed by a hanging fringe; the general appearance of the table (seen from the back) being as shown in Fig. 269. A table of this class makes a very pretty side table, and may be balanced on the opposite side of the stage by another of similar appearance, but designed for some different purpose.

3. The “Rabbit” or “Dove” Trap.—This, as the name suggests, is a trap for making a rabbit or pigeon disappear. The opening is oval, measuring about eight inches by six, and is covered by a double flap split down the middle (see Fig. 268, showing the underside of the trap.) It doesn't use a string; instead, the animal is simply pushed down through the trap hidden either under a second rabbit or a piece of paper that the victim is assumed to be wrapped in. Since the rabbit trap requires quite a bit of space and also needs some kind of enclosure on the table to avoid the animal unexpectedly showing up again, it's a smart idea to have a small dedicated table for it. This should be circular, about thirty-two inches high and sixteen to eighteen inches in diameter. The top of the table must be a circular wooden box about eight inches deep, with an opening behind it for getting the rabbit out. The table can have a servante behind it, just like the main table, which will greatly enhance its usefulness. The depth of the top can be hidden with a hanging fringe, making the general look of the table (viewed from the back) appear as shown in Fig. 269. A table like this makes a lovely side table and can be balanced on the opposite side of the stage with another table of similar design, but intended for a different purpose.

The interior of the table should be well padded with wadding or hay, that the animal may not be hurt by its sudden descent.

The inside of the table should be well padded with stuffing or hay so that the animal isn’t hurt by its sudden drop.

Fig. 269.

Each of the traps above-mentioned should be so made as to be capable of being secured, when necessary, by a bolt, or there would be considerable risk of a trap giving way unexpectedly under any442 article carelessly placed on it. The mode of bolting, however, varies considerably. Some traps are fastened by little bolts on the under side, which, being only get-at-able from the inside of the table, must be bolted or unbolted for good before the curtain rises, occasioning considerable embarrassment in the case of a slip of the memory. Others again are secured by means of long bolts, or wire rods extending across the under surface of the top of the table, each terminating in a hook at the back, within reach of the performer’s hand. A third, and, we think, the best, plan is to have the bolt (as shown in Figs. 261 and 262, and therein marked c) worked backwards and forwards by means of a little pin projecting upwards through the surface plate and the cloth of the table. By the adoption of this plan the performer is enabled to draw back the bolt with the finger-tip in the very act of placing the article upon the trap. It will readily suggest itself to the reader that some provision must be made within the table for making the various articles drop noiselessly through the traps. The best plan of effecting this is to use what is called a “railway.” This is a wooden frame just large enough to lie within the table, with a piece of black serge or alpaca stretched all over its under side. This is so placed within the table, as to slope gently down to the level of the servante, with a fall of three or four inches. Any article dropped through a trap will not only fall noiselessly upon the surface of the stretched alpaca, but will immediately roll down the incline towards the servante, so that it is instantly get-at-able, should the performer have occasion to reproduce the same article at a later stage of the trick.

Each of the traps mentioned above should be designed so that they can be secured, if necessary, with a bolt. Otherwise, there is a significant risk of the trap giving way unexpectedly under any item carelessly placed on it. However, the method of bolting varies considerably. Some traps are secured by small bolts on the underside, which can only be accessed from inside the table, requiring them to be bolted or unbolted beforehand, which can be quite embarrassing if one forgets. Others are secured with long bolts or wire rods that run across the underside of the table's top, each ending in a hook at the back, within reach of the performer’s hand. A third, and we think the best, method is to have the bolt (as shown in Figs. 261 and 262, marked c) operated back and forth by a small pin that projects upwards through the surface plate and the cloth of the table. This method allows the performer to disengage the bolt with a fingertip while placing the item on the trap. It’s clear that some mechanism must be in place within the table to ensure that various items fall quietly through the traps. The best way to achieve this is to use what’s called a “railway.” This is a wooden frame just large enough to fit within the table, covered on its underside with a piece of black serge or alpaca. It is positioned within the table to slope gently down to the level of the servante, with a drop of three or four inches. Any item dropped through a trap will not only fall quietly onto the surface of the stretched alpaca but will also roll down the slope towards the servante, making it easily accessible if the performer needs to use the same item later in the trick.

4. “Changing” Traps.—The traps which we have hitherto discussed have only had the faculty of causing the disappearance of a given article. Those which we are about to describe will not only do this, but will, moreover, produce an article on the surface of the table443 where a moment previously there was nothing, or will replace a given object by another.

4. “Changing” Traps.—The traps we’ve talked about so far can only make a certain item disappear. The ones we’re about to describe will not only do that, but will also create an item on the surface of the table443 where there was nothing just a moment before, or will swap one object for another.

Fig. 270.
Fig. 271.

The trap for this purpose is a somewhat complicated arrangement, of the appearance shown in Figs. 270 and 271. The surface-plate, a a a a, is oblong, measuring about twelve inches by six, with a circular opening b b in the centre. Below it are fixed vertically two brass cylinders c and d, which are so arranged as to work backwards and forwards on a kind of railway e f e f, in the direction of the length of the surface-plate, just so far in either direction as to bring c or d in turn immediately under b. The two cylinders are soldered together, so that the one cannot move without the other. If, therefore, the cylinders are drawn back to the utmost by means of one of the bent iron rods or handles g h, the cylinder c will be below the opening b, as in Fig. 272. If, on the contrary, they be pushed forward, d will in turn be below the opening, as in Fig. 273. Each cylinder contains a brass piston, faced with zinc on its upper surface, and moved up and down by a lever attached at right angles to one or other of the iron handles g h already mentioned, and working through a vertical slot in the side of the cylinder. A piece of clock-spring, attached to the iron handle at the point of junction, gives the piston a gentle upward tendency, which is so regulated, that if either of the cylinders be brought under the opening b, the piston belonging to that cylinder is made to rise into444 the opening, its upper surface resting just flush with that of a a a a. The piston of the forward cylinder c is made to work very easily within it, so as to rise spontaneously by the action of the spring; but that of the hinder cylinder, d, for a reason which will presently appear, works a little more stiffly, so as to require a little assistance from the lever to make it rise into its proper position. The action of the handles g h is outwards, in the direction of the arrows in Fig. 274, the movement of either handle in the direction so indicated drawing down the piston to which it belongs.

The trap for this purpose is a somewhat complicated setup, as shown in Figs. 270 and 271. The surface plate, a a a a, is rectangular, measuring about twelve inches by six, with a circular opening b b in the center. Below it, two brass cylinders c and d are fixed vertically; they slide back and forth on a kind of rail e f e f along the length of the surface plate, moving just far enough in either direction to position c or d directly under b. The two cylinders are soldered together, so one can't move without the other. If the cylinders are pulled back all the way with one of the bent iron rods or handles g h, cylinder c will be below the opening b, as in Fig. 272. Conversely, if they are pushed forward, d will be below the opening, as in Fig. 273. Each cylinder has a brass piston with a zinc surface on top, which moves up and down via a lever attached at right angles to one of the iron handles g h and operating through a vertical slot in the side of the cylinder. A piece of clock spring, connected to the iron handle at the junction point, gives the piston a gentle upward pull that is adjusted so that when either cylinder is under the opening b, that cylinder's piston rises into the opening, with its top surface level with a a a a. The piston in the forward cylinder c is designed to move easily, rising spontaneously due to the spring's action; however, the piston in the rear cylinder d, for reasons that will soon be explained, is a bit stiffer, requiring some help from the lever to rise into the right position. The action of the handles g h is outward, in the direction of the arrows in Fig. 274, with movement of either handle as indicated pulling down the corresponding piston.

Fig. 272. Fig. 273.
Fig. 274.

The handles further serve, as already mentioned, to move the cylinders backwards and forwards as may be required. It should, however, be noted that no backward or forward movement can take place so long as either of the pistons stops the opening b; but as soon as the piston is, by turning the proper handle, depressed ever so little below the level of the surface-plate, it no longer forms any obstacle to the movement. The trap is fixed in the table in such manner that the handles g h shall be just within the opening at the back of the table (see Fig. 274), and thus be within easy reach of the performer’s hands when standing behind it. We will suppose, for the sake of illustration, that the performer desires to change an empty tumbler (of445 small size) to a full one. The trap is beforehand prepared by bringing the foremost cylinder c under the opening b. The full glass is then placed on the top of the piston, which is then lowered gently downwards by means of the proper handle, the glass sinking into the cylinder. The cylinders are now pushed forward, so that d in turn comes under b, the piston being then moved up into its proper place, and so closing the opening. This is, of course, arranged before the curtain rises.

The handles also allow for moving the cylinders back and forth as needed. However, it's important to note that no backward or forward movement can happen as long as either piston blocks the opening b; but as soon as the piston is depressed even slightly below the level of the surface plate by turning the appropriate handle, it no longer obstructs the movement. The trap is securely fixed in the table so that the handles g h are positioned just within the opening at the back of the table (see Fig. 274), making them easy to reach for the performer standing behind it. For illustration, let’s say the performer wants to replace an empty small tumbler with a full one. The trap is prepared in advance by positioning the front cylinder c under the opening b. The full glass is then placed on top of the piston, which is gently lowered using the correct handle, allowing the glass to sink into the cylinder. Next, the cylinders are pushed forward so that d moves under b, and then the piston is raised into its proper position, closing the opening. This is all set up before the curtain rises.

When the performer desires to perform the trick, he places the empty glass upon b, and conceals it with a cover of any kind. Standing carelessly behind the table, and keeping the attention of the audience occupied by any observations he may deem most appropriate for that purpose, he takes hold with his right hand of the handle h, and turns it outward, thereby lowering the empty glass into d. As soon as he feels that it will sink no further, he shifts his hand to the handle a, and therewith draws the cylinders back so as to bring c under b, and then, by turning g, gently raises the full glass of water up through b to the surface of the table. The reader will now perceive the reason why, as already mentioned, the piston in d is made a little tight, so as to require the assistance of the handle to raise it into its position. It is necessary that this piston, when once depressed with the object to be changed, shall remain down while the hand is shifted from handle h to handle g. If it were not made to work somewhat stiffly, the moment the handle h was released the piston would instantly fly up again with the object upon it, thus neutralizing what had been already done. The cylinder c, which is to produce the substitute object, is not brought under b until the hand of the performer is already on the handle belonging to it, and can thereby check its upward ascent as may be necessary.

When the performer is ready to do the trick, he places the empty glass on b and covers it with something. Standing casually behind the table and keeping the audience distracted with any remarks he thinks are suitable, he grabs the handle h with his right hand and turns it outward, lowering the empty glass into d. Once he feels it can't go down any further, he switches his hand to handle a and pulls the cylinders back, positioning c under b. Then, by turning g, he gently raises the full glass of water through b to the table's surface. The reader will now understand why, as mentioned earlier, the piston in d is slightly tight, requiring the handle for assistance to lift it back into position. It's important that this piston, once pressed down with the object to be swapped, stays down while the hand moves from handle h to handle g. If it weren't a bit stiff, the moment handle h is released, the piston would instantly spring back up with the object, undoing everything that was just done. The cylinder c, which will create the substitute object, is not moved under b until the performer's hand is already on its handle, allowing him to control its upward movement as needed.

It is obvious that the changing trap will be equally available to produce an object under an empty cover. The object to be produced will be placed in c as above, the piston in d going down empty, and that in c rising with the object upon it.

It’s clear that the changing trap will also work to create an object under an empty cover. The object to be produced will be placed in c as mentioned, the piston in d going down empty, and the one in c rising with the object on it.

Fig. 275.
Fig. 276

The above are the traps in most frequent use, but there are others designed for special purposes. Thus there is a trap for causing the disappearance of six or eight half-crowns (as, for instance, in the well-known trick of the “crystal cash-box,” which will be described446 in the course of the present chapter). Of course the coins could be made to disappear through an ordinary trap, but they would cause a suggestive “chink” in their fall. The trap to which we are now referring (see Figs. 275 and 276) is designed to prevent this tell-tale sound, and to cause the half-crowns to disappear in perfect silence. The opening in the surface plate is an inch and three-quarters in diameter, and is closed by a circular piston of brass or zinc, a, working up and down in a small brass cylinder b, and so arranged as to drop by its own weight to the bottom of the cylinder, save when kept up by a little lever catch at the side of the cylinder. A short pin d attached to this catch projects upwards through a slot in the surface plate, and stands up very slightly above the cloth of the table. The disc a being raised level with the surface plate, and secured by means of the catch, six or eight half-crowns or florins are placed on a. The performer, in making the motion of picking up the coins (with one hand), with the tip of the third finger pulls the pin d towards him. This withdraws the catch, and a instantly drops down to the bottom of the cylinder, carrying the coins with it. As soon as a reaches its lowest point, it draws down the pin e, thereby releasing a similar disc f, which, working laterally on a spring pivot at the edge of the opening, describes a semicircle, and assumes the position previously occupied by a, a portion of one side of the cylinder, at the top, being cut away to allow of its passage. Fig. 275 shows the trap in its first, and Fig. 276 in its second condition, the latter being, for greater clearness, drawn in section. The apparatus is447 rather complicated, and it is almost hopeless to endeavour to render it clearly intelligible by description only. In the absence of this special trap, the same object may be nearly as well effected with an ordinary trap by using half-crowns (be it remembered that it is always substitute coins which are made to disappear in this manner) which have been beeswaxed on both sides. A very slight pressure will cause a number of coins thus prepared to adhere together, and form for the time being a solid mass, which will fall through the trap without causing any “clink.”

The above are the traps that are most commonly used, but there are others made for specific purposes. For example, there is a trap designed to make six or eight half-crowns disappear (like in the famous trick of the “crystal cash-box,” which will be described446 in this chapter). Sure, the coins could vanish through a regular trap, but they would make a noticeable “chink” when they fall. The trap we're talking about now (see Figs. 275 and 276) is made to avoid that tell-tale sound, allowing the half-crowns to disappear silently. The opening in the plate is one and three-quarters inches wide, closed by a circular piston made of brass or zinc, a, that moves up and down in a small brass cylinder b. It’s set up to drop by its own weight to the bottom of the cylinder, except when it’s held up by a little lever catch on the side of the cylinder. A short pin d connected to this catch goes up through a slot in the plate and sticks up just a little above the table’s cloth. When disc a is raised to be level with the plate and held by the catch, six or eight half-crowns or florins are placed on a. As the performer pretends to pick up the coins (with one hand), they use the tip of their third finger to pull the pin d toward them. This releases the catch, and a immediately drops to the bottom of the cylinder, taking the coins with it. When a hits its lowest point, it pulls down pin e, which releases a similar disc f. This disc moves laterally on a spring pivot at the opening's edge, tracing a semicircle and taking the place of a, with part of one side of the cylinder at the top cut away to let it through. Fig. 275 shows the trap in its first state, and Fig. 276 in its second state, with the latter being shown in section for clarity. The setup is447 pretty complicated, and it’s almost useless to try to explain it just through description. Without this special trap, you can achieve a similar effect with a regular trap by using half-crowns (remember that it’s always substitute coins that vanish like this) that have been coated with beeswax on both sides. Just a tiny amount of pressure will make several of these prepared coins stick together, creating a solid mass that falls through the trap without making any “clink.”

We next come to—

We next come to—

Fig. 277. Fig. 278.
Fig. 279.

Pistons.—These are appliances for working pieces of mechanical apparatus—as, for example, the Watch Target, the Card Star, the Demon’s Head, etc., etc. A piston (see Figs. 277, 278) consists of a brass tube a, about five inches in length by five-eighths of an inch in diameter, with a collar at one end pierced with screw-holes for affixing it to the under surface of the table. Within this tube works a wire rod, b, three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and terminating in a small round disc of brass c, just large enough to work freely up and down the tube. A spiral spring, also of brass, keeps the rod down,448 unless when forced upwards by pulling a piece of whipcord, which is attached to the disc c, and thence passes up the tube, and over a small pulley d, which is soldered to the collar already mentioned. When this cord is pulled, b is forced to rise, which it does to the extent of about two inches above the surface of the table (see Fig. 278), again sinking under the pressure of the spring, as soon as the pull is relaxed. Each piston is screwed to the under surface of the top of the table, in which a small hole is bored, in order to allow of the upward passage of the piston rod. Where complicated mechanical pieces have to be worked, three, four, or more of these pistons are placed side by side. The cords are carried behind the scenes, either directly from the back of the table, or down grooves in the legs, and through holes in the stage to the hiding-place of the assistant. Where a single piston only is required, it may be made to work in the central pillar of a light guéridon, or fancy table, such as shown in Fig. 279, the lightness and simplicity of the table, and the thinness of its top, apparently precluding all possibility of the presence of concealed mechanism. The cord may be made to pass down the centre pillar, so as to be quite invisible to the audience.

Pistons.—These are devices used in mechanical systems, like the Watch Target, the Card Star, the Demon’s Head, and so on. A piston (see Figs. 277, 278) consists of a brass tube a, about five inches long and five-eighths of an inch in diameter, with a collar at one end that has screw holes for attaching it to the underside of the table. Inside this tube is a wire rod, b, three-sixteenths of an inch thick, ending in a small round brass disc c, just the right size to move freely up and down the tube. A brass spiral spring keeps the rod down,448 unless it’s pushed up by pulling a piece of whipcord attached to the disc c, which runs up the tube and over a small pulley d that’s soldered to the collar mentioned earlier. When this cord is pulled, b rises, moving about two inches above the tabletop (see Fig. 278), and then sinks back down under the pressure of the spring as soon as the pull is relaxed. Each piston is screwed to the underside of the tabletop, which has a small hole drilled to allow the piston rod to come up. For complicated mechanical setups, three, four, or more pistons are positioned side by side. The cords run behind the scenes, either directly from the back of the table or down grooves in the legs and through holes in the stage to the assistant's hiding spot. If only one piston is needed, it can be integrated into the central pillar of a light guéridon or fancy table, as shown in Fig. 279, allowing for a light and simple design that makes it seem like there’s no hidden machinery. The cord can run down the center pillar to stay completely out of sight from the audience.

Fig. 280.

The mechanical pieces worked by the agency of these pistons vary greatly in construction, but they are alike in one particular, viz., that they are set in motion by one or more vertical rods passing up the shaft or column on which they stand, and each terminating in a flat metal disc, or pedal, which receives the upward pressure of the piston. Fig. 280 shows the arrangement of the foot of a mechanical449 piece worked by one such rod only. Another specimen will have been observed in the case of the pedestal for the animated money. (See page 186.) Where three or four pedals are necessary, they are generally enclosed in a square wooden base, as in the case of the “Demon’s Head,” described at page 458.

The mechanical components powered by these pistons come in various designs, but they all share one common feature: they are activated by one or more vertical rods that rise up the shaft or column they sit on, each ending in a flat metal disc or pedal that receives the upward force from the piston. Fig. 280 shows the setup for a mechanical piece operated by a single rod. You might have noticed another example in the pedestal for the animated money. (See page 186.) When three or four pedals are needed, they are usually housed in a square wooden base, like in the case of the “Demon’s Head,” described on page 458.

Before quitting the subject of the tables used upon the stage, we must not omit to say a few words as to what is called the “bellows” table, though it is now comparatively little used. It was formerly (say forty or fifty years ago) the fashion among conjurors to use tables with drapery hanging to within a few inches of the floor. The table being, say, two feet seven inches high, this gave room for a box-like arrangement, of two feet deep, or thereabouts, within the body of the table. In this box, which was open at the back, was hidden an assistant, who worked the pistons, managed the traps, effected necessary substitutions, etc., etc. Conjuring under such circumstances was very easy work. In 1845, however, Robert-Houdin gave his first public performance, and one of the earliest of his reforms in the magic art was the suppression of the too suggestive drapery, and the substitution of tables of light and elegant form, allowing no possible room for the concealment of an assistant. A reaction set in in favour of the new fashion, which has ever since maintained its ground. The “bellows” table combines the apparent simplicity of the undraped table with the internal capacity of the old-fashioned draped article. There is a trick, formerly very popular as the wind-up of an entertainment, which consists of the magical disappearance of a youthful assistant, male or female. The subject of the trick, generally dressed in a page’s costume, is made to mount upon a table, and is covered by a wicker cone, which being almost instantly removed, he or she has vanished. The table in this case is draped to within a few inches of the ground, but to show that no hidden receptacle is thereby concealed, the performer before commencing the trick lifts up the table-cloth, and shows that the top of the table is at most not more than two or three inches in thickness. The drapery is then again allowed to fall into position, and the trick proceeds. The table used in this trick is a bellows table; i.e., it has a double top, or rather two tops, one above the other. The upper one is a fixture, with a large wooden trap450 (opening upwards) in it, to allow of the passage of the person to be conjured away. The under top is moveable, being in its normal condition pressed against the upper one by the action of four spiral springs (one in each leg of the table), but sinking down to nearly the depth of the cover under the weight of a person stepping upon it, and thus affording the requisite hiding-place, in which the person remains until the fall of the curtain enables him or her to come forth with safety. Cloth is nailed round three sides of the upper and lower boards, folding between the two when closed, after the manner of the leather of a bellows; and from this circumstance the table derives its name.

Before we move on from the topic of the tables used on stage, we should mention the so-called “bellows” table, even though it’s not used much anymore. About forty or fifty years ago, it was trendy among magicians to have tables draped with fabric that hung just above the floor. If the table was around two feet seven inches tall, this allowed space for a box-like area, about two feet deep, inside the table. An assistant, who was hidden in this box and had access to the back, would operate the mechanisms, manage the traps, make necessary substitutions, and so on. Performing magic under these conditions was quite easy. However, in 1845, Robert-Houdin had his first public performance, and one of his key changes in magic was removing the overly suggestive drapery and introducing tables with a light, elegant design that left no room for hiding an assistant. This trend quickly became popular and has remained so ever since. The “bellows” table combines the apparent simplicity of an undraped table with the internal space of the older draped version. There’s a trick that used to be very popular as a finale, involving the magical disappearance of a young assistant, either male or female. The person, usually dressed in a page’s outfit, climbs onto the table and is covered with a wicker cone, which is removed almost instantly, causing them to vanish. The table for this trick has a drape that hangs just a few inches off the ground, but to prove there’s no hidden compartment, the performer lifts the tablecloth before starting the trick to show that the table’s top is no more than two or three inches thick. After this, the drapery is allowed to fall back into place, and the trick continues. The table used for this trick is a bellows table; that is, it has a double top, or rather two tops, one above the other. The upper one is fixed, with a large wooden trap (opening upwards) that allows the person to be magically removed to pass through. The lower top is movable and is normally pressed against the upper one by four spiral springs (one in each leg of the table), but it sinks down nearly to the level of the cover when a person steps on it, creating a hiding place for them until the curtain falls, allowing them to exit safely. Fabric is attached around three sides of both the upper and lower boards, folding between them when closed, similar to the leather of a bellows; this is how the table got its name.

Fig. 281.

Small round tables (for the disappearance of a rabbit, or the like) are sometimes made on the same principle. The following will be found a simple and convenient arrangement:—Let the table be of the form shown in Fig. 281, and two feet seven inches high. Let the uppermost eight inches of the pillar be a plain cylinder a a, an inch and a half in diameter. Below this the pillar may increase in size, and may be of an ornamental character. Take two circular boards of deal or mahogany, each eighteen to twenty inches in diameter, and five-eighths of an inch thick. In the centre of one of them, b, cut a circular hole an inch and three-quarters in diameter. This will form the under side of the “bellows,” the object being to allow the board to slide freely up and down on a a. The other board, which we will call c, is screwed firmly on to the pillar, to form the top of the table. Next take a strip of black alpaca, ten inches in width, and nail its opposite edges round b and c, leaving a small space at one side to give access to the interior. Tie a piece of cord elastic round the centre of the alpaca, tightly enough to exercise a considerable degree of tension. Fix such traps as may be desired in c, and glue over it a fancy-patterned cloth, with a fringe or border hanging451 down nine or ten inches round the sides. The performer, before executing any trick with this table, may pointedly draw attention to the fact that it contains no drawer or other place of concealment. In doing this (see Fig. 282) he with one hand raises the lower board level with the upper (the action of the elastic drawing in the alpaca between the two), while with the other hand he raises the fringe, and shows, apparently, that the top of the table is but a single board.

Small round tables (for making a rabbit disappear, or something similar) are sometimes created using the same principle. Here's a simple and convenient setup: Let the table have the shape shown in Fig. 281, and be two feet seven inches high. The top eight inches of the pillar should be a plain cylinder a a, measuring an inch and a half in diameter. Below this, the pillar can widen and have an ornamental design. Take two circular boards made of deal or mahogany, each eighteen to twenty inches in diameter and five-eighths of an inch thick. In the center of one of them, b, cut a circular hole an inch and three-quarters in diameter. This will create the underside of the “bellows,” allowing the board to slide smoothly up and down on a a. The second board, which we'll call c, is securely attached to the pillar, forming the top of the table. Next, take a strip of black alpaca, ten inches wide, and nail its opposite edges around b and c, leaving a small opening on one side for access to the interior. Tie a piece of elastic cord around the center of the alpaca, tight enough to create significant tension. Set up any traps you want in c, and glue a fancy-patterned cloth over it, with a fringe or border hanging down nine or ten inches around the sides. Before performing any tricks with this table, the performer may emphasize that it has no drawers or hidden compartments. While doing this (see Fig. 282), one hand raises the lower board level with the upper one (thanks to the elastic pulling the alpaca between the two), while the other hand lifts the fringe, seemingly showing that the top of the table is just a single board.

Fig. 282.

The top of every conjuring table should be covered with woollen cloth, not only to prevent the clatter which would be occasioned by the placing of objects upon the bare wood, but to conceal the presence of the traps and pistons. The cloth used should, for this latter reason, be of two colours, and of a tolerably intricate pattern, as the outline of the traps will be thereby rendered much less perceptible; indeed, if the pattern of the cloth be a favourable one for the purpose, the traps should be, by gas-light, absolutely invisible. The cloth should be glued over the top of the table after the manner of a card-table; the upper surface of the traps being first roughed slightly, to make the glue adhere to the metal. When the glue is thoroughly dry (but not until then) the cloth may be cut along the outline of the traps with a very sharp penknife, and small holes bored to allow of the upward passage of the piston rods. As it is necessary in placing a mechanical piece upon the table, to do so exactly over the pistons, it is well to have a couple of wire points projecting upwards a quarter of an inch or so from the surface of the table, in such positions that if the piece of apparatus rests firmly against these (which the performer can tell instantly by feel) it must necessarily be in proper position.

The top of every conjuring table should be covered with wool fabric, not just to avoid the noise that comes from placing items on bare wood, but also to hide the traps and pistons. The cloth used should be two colors and have a fairly complex pattern, as this will make the outline of the traps much less noticeable; in fact, if the cloth's pattern is suitable, the traps should be completely invisible under gas light. The fabric should be glued over the top of the table like a card table, with the upper surface of the traps being slightly roughened first to help the glue stick to the metal. Once the glue is fully dry (but not before), the cloth can be cut around the outlines of the traps with a very sharp knife, and small holes can be drilled to let the piston rods come up. Since it's important to place a mechanical piece exactly over the pistons, it helps to have a couple of wire points sticking up about a quarter of an inch from the table’s surface, positioned so that if the equipment rests firmly against them (which the performer can easily tell by feel), it will be in the right place.

Where “wrist” traps are used, the cloth need not be cut out round452 the little oblong slab marked c in Figs. 263, 264, but the cloth should be without glue over this particular spot, and for half an inch round it on either side. The cloth will by this arrangement be found, without cutting, to stretch sufficiently over c to allow of the proper working of the trap.

Where “wrist” traps are used, the cloth doesn’t need to be cut out around the small rectangular slab marked c in Figs. 263, 264, but the cloth should be free of glue in that specific area and for half an inch on either side. With this setup, the cloth will stretch enough over c to enable the trap to function properly.

Assuming that our stage appliances are complete, we will proceed to—

Assuming that all our stage equipment is ready, we will move on to—

The Rabbit Trick.—The performer comes forward to the audience, and borrows a hat. He asks whether it is empty, and is answered that it is; but he, notwithstanding, finds something in it, which the owner is requested to take out. The article in question proves to be an egg. No sooner has this been removed, than the performer discovers that there is still something in the hat, and immediately produces therefrom a live rabbit, quickly followed by a second. Not knowing what other use to make of these, he proposes to pass one of them into the other. The audience decide which is to be the victim, and the performer, placing them side by side on the table, proceeds to roll them together, when one is found to have vanished, nobody knows when or how; but the theory is that it has been swallowed by the remaining rabbit, to the (imaginary) increased fatness of which the performer draws special attention.

The Rabbit Magic Trick.—The performer steps in front of the audience and borrows a hat. He asks if it's empty, and they confirm that it is; however, he still finds something inside it, which he asks the owner to take out. The item turns out to be an egg. As soon as this is removed, the performer realizes there's still something in the hat and pulls out a live rabbit, soon followed by a second one. Not sure what else to do with them, he suggests transferring one into the other. The audience chooses which rabbit will be the one to go, and the performer places them side by side on the table, rolling them together. Suddenly, one has disappeared without anyone knowing when or how; the explanation is that it was swallowed by the other rabbit, which the performer highlights has (supposedly) become even fatter because of it.

Having thus passed one rabbit into the other, the next step is to get it out again. To do this the performer calls for some bran, and his assistant immediately brings forward, and places on a table or chair, a huge glass goblet, twelve inches or thereabouts in height, filled to the brim with that commodity. The performer takes the borrowed hat, and (after showing that it is empty) places it mouth upwards upon another table, so as to be at some considerable distance from the goblet of bran. He then places a brass cover over the glass, first, however, taking up and scattering a handful of the bran to prove its genuineness. Taking the surviving rabbit, and holding it by the ears above the covered goblet, he orders the one swallowed to pass from it into the glass, at the same time stroking it down with the disengaged hand, as though to facilitate the process. He remarks, “You must excuse the comparative slowness of the operation, ladies and gentlemen, but the fact is, the second rabbit passes downwards453 in an impalpable powder, and, if I were not to take sufficient time, we might find that a leg or an ear had been omitted in the process, and the restored rabbit would be a cripple for life. I think we are pretty safe by this time, however. Thank you, Bunny; I need not trouble you any more.” So saying, he releases the visible rabbit, and on taking off the cover the bran is found to have disappeared, and the missing rabbit to have taken its place in the goblet; while on turning over the borrowed hat the vanished bran pours from it.

Having passed one rabbit into the other, the next step is to get it out again. To do this, the performer asks for some bran, and his assistant quickly brings out a large glass goblet, about twelve inches tall, filled to the brim with it. The performer takes the borrowed hat and, after showing that it’s empty, places it mouth-up on another table, some distance away from the goblet of bran. He then puts a brass cover over the glass, but first, he takes a handful of bran and scatters it to prove it's real. Holding the remaining rabbit by the ears above the covered goblet, he instructs the swallowed rabbit to pass into the glass while stroking it down with his free hand to help the process along. He comments, “Please excuse the relative slowness of this operation, ladies and gentlemen, but the second rabbit goes down as an extremely fine powder, and if I rush it, we might end up missing a leg or an ear, and the returned rabbit would be a cripple for life. I think we’re safe by now, though. Thank you, Bunny; I won’t need you anymore.” With that, he releases the visible rabbit, and when he removes the cover, the bran is gone, replaced by the missing rabbit in the goblet. Meanwhile, when he turns over the borrowed hat, the vanished bran pours out.

The reader who has duly followed our descriptions of the appliances employed in the magic art will have little difficulty in solving the riddle of this trick. The performer first comes forward with an egg palmed in one hand, and with a small rabbit in an inner breast-pocket on each side of his coat (see page 9). The first step is the pretended finding of something (it is not stated what) in the hat. The owner is requested to take it out, and while all eyes are naturally turned to see what the article may prove to be, the performer, without apparent intention, presses the mouth of the hat with both hands to his breast, and tilts one of the rabbits into it. This is next produced, and in placing it on the ground at his feet, the performer brings the second rabbit in the same manner into the hat. When he undertakes to pass the one rabbit into the other, he places both upon the table which contains the rabbit-trap, and, standing sideways to the audience, pushes the hindmost, under cover of the other, through the trap. This particular rabbit is not again produced, the rabbit in the “bran glass,” which has already been explained (see page 383), being another as much like it as possible. It only remains to explain how the bran comes into the borrowed hat. This is effected by having a black alpaca bag filled with bran in one of the profondes or under the waistcoat of the performer. This bag is introduced into the hat after the manner of the goblets (see page 308), and the bran having been allowed to run out, the bag is rolled up in the palm, and so removed, the bran remaining, to be produced in due course.

The reader who has carefully followed our descriptions of the tools used in the magic art will find it easy to figure out this trick. The performer first appears with an egg hidden in one hand and a small rabbit in an inner breast pocket on each side of his coat (see page 9). The first step is the fake discovery of something (it's not specified what) in the hat. The owner is asked to take it out, and while everyone is focused on seeing what it might be, the performer, seemingly without intention, presses the mouth of the hat against his chest and tilts one of the rabbits into it. This rabbit is then revealed, and while placing it on the ground at his feet, the performer brings the second rabbit into the hat in the same way. When he tries to swap one rabbit for the other, he puts both on the table with the rabbit trap, standing sideways to the audience, and pushes the back one through the trap, hidden by the other. This particular rabbit is not shown again; instead, the rabbit in the “bran glass,” which has already been explained (see page 383), is another that looks as much like it as possible. Finally, we need to explain how the bran gets into the borrowed hat. This is done by having a black alpaca bag filled with bran tucked under the waistcoat of the performer. This bag is placed into the hat like the goblets (see page 308), and as the bran spills out, the bag is rolled up in the palm and discreetly removed, leaving the bran, which will be revealed at the right moment.

It is obvious that the trick may be varied in many ways. The following is an effective modification:—A rabbit having been produced by natural or supernatural means, is placed on the principal table (close to the hinder edge), and temporarily covered with a borrowed hat, while the performer goes in search of a sheet of paper, which454 when obtained, he spreads upon a small side table. Lifting the hat slightly, he takes out the rabbit, and walking with it to the side table, rolls it up in the paper, making a somewhat bulky parcel. Coming forward with this to the audience, he turns toward the principal table, and saying, “Now, ladies and gentlemen, if you watch me very closely, you will see the rabbit fly out of the paper, and back to the hat.” He crushes the paper together between his hands, and tearing it, shows it empty, while on lifting the hat the rabbit is again found safely ensconced beneath it.

It's clear that this trick can be done in many different ways. Here's an effective twist: A rabbit, produced by natural or magical means, is placed on the main table (near the back edge) and briefly covered with a borrowed hat while the performer goes to find a sheet of paper, which454 he then spreads out on a small side table. Lifting the hat just a bit, he takes out the rabbit and walks over to the side table, wrapping it up in the paper to create a somewhat bulky package. Approaching the audience with this, he turns toward the main table and says, “Now, ladies and gentlemen, if you watch me very closely, you’ll see the rabbit fly out of the paper and back to the hat.” He crumples the paper between his hands, tears it, and shows that it's empty, while lifting the hat to reveal the rabbit safely tucked underneath.

The ingenious reader will readily guess that duplicate rabbits are employed. One of them is placed under the hat, and remains there throughout the trick. A second, of similar appearance, is placed in a box or basket on the servante, immediately behind the hat. This box has no lid, but is pushed until wanted just within the interior of the table, the top of which prevents the rabbit making a premature appearance. The performer, slightly raising the hat, as though to take the rabbit from under it, lifts up this second rabbit, which the spectators naturally believe to be the same which they have already seen, and in apparently wrapping it in paper on the side table, presses it, under cover of the paper, through the rabbit trap, and screws up the ends of the paper (which should be rather stiff) in such manner as to make it appear that the animal is still inside it. The same trick may be performed with a pigeon with equally good effect, and considerably less difficulty.

The clever reader will quickly understand that duplicate rabbits are used. One of them is kept under the hat and stays there throughout the trick. A second rabbit, looking just like the first, is placed in a box or basket on the servante, right behind the hat. This box doesn’t have a lid, but it’s pushed in just far enough into the table so the rabbit can’t appear too soon. The performer gently lifts the hat as if to take the rabbit out, bringing up the second rabbit, which the audience naturally believes is the same one they’ve already seen. While pretending to wrap it in paper on the side table, the performer discreetly pushes it through the rabbit trap and twists the ends of the paper (which should be fairly stiff) so it looks like the rabbit is still inside. The same trick can also be done with a pigeon with equally great results and much less effort.

The Fairy Star.—This is one of the most telling of stage card tricks. The performer, coming forward with a pack of cards, allows six to be chosen. His assistant meanwhile brings forward and places on a table a handsome gilt “star” on a stand. The performer, collecting the chosen cards, places them in his pistol, and fires them at the star, when, at the moment of the explosion, they are seen to attach themselves one to each of its points, as in Fig. 283.

The Fairy Star.—This is one of the most impressive stage card tricks. The performer steps forward with a deck of cards and lets the audience choose six cards. Meanwhile, his assistant brings out and sets a beautiful gold "star" on a stand on the table. The performer gathers the selected cards, loads them into his pistol, and fires at the star. At the moment of the explosion, the cards attach themselves to each of its points, just like in Fig. 283.

Fig. 283. Fig. 284.

The principal point to be explained is the construction of the star. Behind each “ray” is a moveable arm, working on a spring hinge at about two inches’ distance from the point, and carrying a spring clip at its outer end wherein to insert a card. (See Fig. 284, representing a back view of the apparatus.) A card being placed in each of the clips, the six455 arms, with the cards attached to them, are folded down one by one behind the centre of the star, which is just large enough to conceal them. Each card, as folded, holds down the one which has preceded it. When the last card is folded down, the free end of a moveable button or lever at the top of the pillar on which the star rests is so turned as to press upon the arm which holds the card last folded, and thus to keep it and the five other cards preceding it in place. This button, however, is so arranged as to be instantly withdrawn upon an upward movement being communicated to a wire rod which passes up the centre of the pillar, and terminates in a flat disc of metal at its foot. The apparatus, thus prepared, is placed immediately over one of the456 pistons of the table. At the moment of firing the pistol the cord of the piston is pulled. The piston rises, pressing up the disc and wire rod, the button is withdrawn, and the arms, being thereby released, revert to their natural position, exhibiting a card upon each point of the star.

The main thing to explain is how the star is built. Behind each “ray,” there’s a movable arm that works on a spring hinge about two inches from the point and holds a spring clip at its outer end to insert a card. (See Fig. 284, which shows a back view of the setup.) With a card placed in each clip, the six455 arms, with the cards attached, are folded down one by one behind the center of the star, which is just big enough to hide them. Each folded card keeps down the one before it. Once the last card is folded down, the free end of a movable button or lever at the top of the pillar where the star sits is turned to press on the arm that holds the last folded card, keeping it and the five other cards before it in place. This button is designed to be easily released when an upward movement is applied to a wire rod that goes up the center of the pillar and ends in a flat metal disc at the bottom. The setup, now ready, is placed directly over one of the456 pistons on the table. When the trigger of the pistol is pulled, the piston moves up, raising the disc and wire rod, the button is released, and the arms, now free, go back to their original position, showing a card on each point of the star.

There are many little differences of detail between the “stars” of rival manufacturers, but the foregoing may be taken to represent the general principle of all. Some have the addition of a rose in the centre, which opens simultaneously with the appearance of the cards, and discloses a watch, borrowed a moment previously from one of the spectators.

There are many small differences among the "stars" of competing brands, but the points mentioned above can be seen as the general rule for all of them. Some have a rose in the center that opens at the same time as the cards appear, revealing a watch that was borrowed just a moment ago from one of the spectators.

The mode of working the trick varies a good deal in the hands of different performers. The most legitimate method is to “force” cards corresponding to those already folded behind the star, and this method has the advantage of allowing the star to be brought in and placed upon the table before commencing the trick; and as it is not again touched by the performer or his assistant, the appearance on its points of (apparently) the identical cards just chosen seems really miraculous.

The way the trick is performed can really differ among various magicians. The most legitimate approach is to “force” cards that match those already folded behind the star. This method has the benefit of letting the star be introduced and set on the table before starting the trick. Since neither the performer nor their assistant touches it again, the appearance of the seemingly identical cards just picked on its tips feels truly miraculous.

To be able, however, to force six cards in succession with ease and certainty, demands a more than average degree of dexterity on the part of the performer; and a “forcing pack” (see page 23) is hardly available where more than three, or at most four cards have to be forced. Various expedients have been adopted to get over this difficulty. Some professors simply collect, or allow their assistant to collect, the cards which have been drawn, and forthwith secretly exchange them for the same number of others. These latter are laid upon the table, and subsequently placed in the pistol, while the originals are carried off by the assistant behind the scenes, and there attached to the star, which is then for the first time brought forward. Others, again, use what are called “longs and shorts”—i.e., two packs of cards, one of which has had a small portion shaved off its length or breadth. The performer offers the uncut pack for the company to draw from, letting each person retain his card, and then secretly exchanging the pack for the shortened pack, he requests each of the drawers (singly) to replace his card, and to shuffle freely. The substituted pack being a shade smaller than the returned card, the latter becomes a “long” card (see page 60); and therefore, however well the457 cards are shuffled, the performer is able, with absolute certainty, to cut at that particular card. “Here is your card,” he remarks, “the knave of diamonds.” As he names the card, the assistant, behind the scenes, takes the cue, and attaches a corresponding card to the star. The card named is removed from the pack and laid upon the table, in order to be subsequently placed in the pistol, and a second drawn card is returned and shuffled with the like result.

To successfully force six cards in a row with ease and certainty requires more than just average skill from the performer. A “forcing pack” (see page 23) is rarely practical when you need to force more than three or four cards. Various methods have been developed to overcome this challenge. Some performers simply collect, or let their assistant collect, the drawn cards and quickly switch them for an equal number of others. These new cards are placed on the table and then loaded into the pistol, while the original cards are taken backstage by the assistant and attached to the star, which is revealed for the first time. Others use what are called “longs and shorts”—i.e., two packs of cards, one of which has been slightly trimmed. The performer offers the uncut pack for the audience to draw from, allowing each person to keep their card, then secretly replaces it with the trimmed pack. He asks each person who drew a card to put it back and shuffle freely. Since the substituted pack is a bit smaller than the returned card, this card becomes a “long” card (see page 60); therefore, no matter how well the cards are shuffled, the performer can confidently cut to that specific card. “Here is your card,” he says, “the knave of diamonds.” As he announces the card, the assistant backstage takes the signal and attaches the matching card to the star. The named card is removed from the pack and placed on the table to be loaded into the pistol later, and a second drawn card is returned and shuffled with the same outcome.

The star may, in the absence of a mechanical table, be placed on the hand, the disc being pushed up by the fingers. Some stars have a moveable stud at the side of the pillar, connected with the rod within, to facilitate this mode of working the trick.

The star can be placed on the hand without a mechanical table, with the disc lifted by the fingers. Some stars have a movable stud on the side of the pillar, connected to the internal rod, to make it easier to perform this trick.

Fig. 285.

The Card Bouquet.—This is a trick very similar in effect to that last described, though differing a little as to the manner of the appearance of the cards. Six cards are drawn, and placed in a pistol, as in the last case. A vase (apparently of china, but really of tin, japanned), containing a handsome bouquet, is placed upon the table, and, at the instant of firing, the six cards appear ranged in a semicircle above the flowers in the bouquet. (See Fig. 285.) In this instance, the cards are attached to the branches of a sort of fan, so constructed as to open of its own accord, unless forcibly kept closed. The cards having been duly placed in position, this fan is shut, and pressed downwards through a narrow opening in the lower part of the vase, the pressure of whose sides keeps it, for the time being, closed. When pressed upwards by the action of a piston, the fan rises above the level of the flowers, and at the same time opens and exhibits the six cards.

The Card Bouquet.—This trick is quite similar to the one just described, though it varies a bit in how the cards appear. Six cards are drawn and placed in a pistol, just like before. A vase (which looks like china but is actually made of tin and painted) holds a beautiful bouquet and is set on the table. At the moment of firing, the six cards show up in a semicircle above the flowers in the bouquet. (See Fig. 285.) In this case, the cards are attached to a kind of fan that’s designed to open automatically unless it’s held closed. After positioning the cards, the fan is closed and pushed down through a small opening at the bottom of the vase, where the pressure from the sides keeps it closed for now. When pushed up by a piston, the fan rises above the flowers and opens, revealing the six cards.

The vase is sometimes made with a second pedal, to produce a second series of six cards. In this case twelve cards are drawn; six of these first appear, and then, at the command of the performer, these458 six suddenly change to the other six. This is effected as follows:—The twelve cards are pasted back to back in couples. Each of the six arms which hold the cards is so arranged as to be capable of being turned half round (after the manner of the centre of the “watch target”), in which position it is retained by a catch, flying back however to its old position as soon as the catch is released. The six arms are each turned round in this manner, bringing what are naturally the hindmost cards in front. The movement of the first lever exhibits these cards; that of the second lever releases the six catches, when the arms instantly fly round and reveal the other six cards, into which those first exhibited appear to have changed.

The vase sometimes has a second pedal to create a second set of six cards. In this case, twelve cards are drawn; six of these appear first, and then, at the performer’s command, these458 six suddenly transform into the other six. This is done as follows: The twelve cards are glued back-to-back in pairs. Each of the six arms that hold the cards can be turned halfway around (like the pivot of a “watch target”), and this position is held by a catch, which releases as soon as the catch is let go. The six arms are each turned in this way, bringing what are naturally the back cards to the front. The movement of the first lever displays these cards; the movement of the second lever releases the six catches, causing the arms to instantly rotate and reveal the other six cards, making it seem as if the first ones have changed.

The Demon’s Head.—This is a large and effective piece of apparatus, standing about twenty-eight inches from the table. It consists of a grotesque papier maché head, representing that of a demon or satyr, and painted according to taste. It is supported by an ornamental brass column, about an inch in diameter, springing from a velvet-covered base, nine inches square and four and a half high. (See Fig. 286.) At the will of the operator, the head rolls its eyes and opens its mouth, and is sometimes made available in this way to answer questions; the rolling of the eyes being taken to signify a459 negative, and the opening of the mouth an affirmative. In addition to these accomplishments, the demon will indicate chosen cards in the following manner: Five cards having been selected, are returned to the pack, which, after being duly shuffled, is placed in the demon’s mouth. The performer now orders him to produce the chosen cards, when two of them fly from his mouth, and the other two spring up between his horns.

The Demon’s Head.—This is a large and effective device, standing about twenty-eight inches above the table. It features a grotesque papier mâché head, designed to look like a demon or satyr, and painted to taste. It is supported by an ornate brass column, about an inch in diameter, rising from a velvet-covered base that is nine inches square and four and a half inches high. (See Fig. 286.) At the operator's command, the head rolls its eyes and opens its mouth, which are sometimes used to answer questions; rolling the eyes means no, and opening the mouth means yes. In addition to these features, the demon will indicate selected cards as follows: Five cards are chosen and returned to the pack, which, after being thoroughly shuffled, is placed in the demon's mouth. The performer then instructs it to reveal the chosen cards, causing two of them to fly from its mouth, while the other two spring up between its horns.

Fig. 286.
Fig. 287.

The head owes its movements to the action of three different sets of levers, each terminating in a disc or pedal immediately over a circular hole in the under side of the base. The apparatus is so placed upon the table that these openings correspond in position with the same number of pistons. Fig. 287 is a general view of the internal mechanism, the back of the head being removed (as in fact it may be in the original) to give access thereto.460 Fig. 288 exhibits (as seen from the rear) the action of the left-hand group of levers, producing the movement of the eyes. When an upward pressure is applied to the foot of the lever a, it causes the upper arm c d of the elbow piece b c d to describe an arc of about a quarter of an inch from left to right, thereby communicating a corresponding movement to the pair of levers e e, working on the pivots f f; and, as a necessary consequence, a reverse movement to the opposite ends of such levers, on which are fixed the eyes g g. As soon as the upward pressure is removed, the spring h, a spiral coil of fine brass wire, draws back the levers e e, and with them the eyes, to their original position. To produce a continuous rolling, the pressure of the piston is applied and relaxed alternately, the effect to the spectator being as if the figure looked first to the left and then to the right, although as already explained, the active movement of the levers is in the one direction only, the normal position of the eyes being in the other direction.

The head moves thanks to three different sets of levers, each ending in a disc or pedal right above a circular hole on the underside of the base. The setup is positioned on the table so that these openings line up with the same number of pistons. Fig. 287 shows a general view of the internal mechanism, with the back of the head removed (as it can be in the original) for easy access. 460 Fig. 288 illustrates (from the rear) how the left group of levers works to move the eyes. When upward pressure is applied to the foot of lever a, it causes the upper arm c d of the elbow piece b c d to move right and left in a quarter-inch arc, which in turn makes the pair of levers e e move around the pivots f f; as a result, the opposite ends of these levers, to which the eyes g g are attached, move in the opposite direction. Once the upward pressure is released, the spring h, a spiral coil made of fine brass wire, pulls the levers e e and the eyes back to their original position. To create a continuous rolling motion, the piston is pressed and released alternately, making it seem to the observer that the figure is looking first to the left and then to the right, even though, as explained earlier, the active movement of the levers is in only one direction, with the normal position of the eyes facing the other way.

Fig. 288.
Fig. 289.

Fig. 289 shows the action of the second or middle group of levers, serving to produce the opening of the mouth. The chin of the figure consists of a solid block of wood i, working on a pivot j in each cheek, and so counterweighted that its normal position is as in Fig. 289, thus keeping the mouth closed. When, however, the shaft k is raised by pressure from below, the lever l rises with it, and proportionately depresses the opposite end of the block i, thereby opening the461 mouth. As soon as the pressure is removed, the block falls back into its original position, and the mouth closes.

Fig. 289 shows how the second or middle group of levers works to open the mouth. The chin of the figure is made of a solid block of wood i, which pivots j in each cheek, and it’s balanced so that its normal position is as in Fig. 289, keeping the mouth closed. However, when the shaft k is lifted from below, the lever l rises with it, pushing down the opposite end of the block i and opening the461 mouth. Once the pressure is released, the block returns to its original position, and the mouth closes.

Fig. 290.
Fig. 291.

The third or right-hand set of levers is a little more complex in its operation, inasmuch as it has to perform a double office, the expulsion of two cards from the mouth, and the elevation of two others at the top of the head. The cards to be shot from the mouth are placed beforehand (from the front) in the receptacle indicated in Fig. 289 by the letters m m, and a “plan” of which is given in Fig. 290, and a back view in Fig. 291. m m is a flat piece of tin, its edges folded over so as to form a receptacle or platform just capable of holding easily a couple of cards; n is a spring, which, when the cards are put in position, is “set” by being drawn back into the notch of the catch o. When an upward pressure is exerted by the shaft p p on the elbow-piece q q q, the latter pressing against r draws back this catch, and releases the spring, which forthwith shoots out the two cards from the mouth. The other two cards are inserted in the clip s462 (see Fig. 291), consisting of two small pieces of sheet brass soldered to the end of the rod t, which works up and down piston-wise in the tube u u. Within the tube is a spiral spring which impels s upwards level with the top of the head, across which a slit or opening is made to allow of the passage of the cards. This portion of the apparatus is set by placing the two cards in the clip, and then drawing down the piston-rod by the cross-piece v, which is riveted thereto, and hitching such cross-piece under the catch w. The upward movement of the shaft p, at the same time that it draws back the catch o, also draws back the catch w, thereby releasing v, and allowing the clip s and the two cards therein to spring upward, and appear at the top of the head.

The third or right-hand set of levers is a bit more complicated in its operation because it has to do two things: eject two cards from the mouth and raise two others at the top of the head. The cards that need to be shot from the mouth are placed in advance (from the front) in the receptacle indicated in Fig. 289 by the letters m m, with a "plan" provided in Fig. 290, and a back view in Fig. 291. m m is a flat piece of tin, with its edges folded to create a receptacle or platform that can easily hold two cards. n is a spring that, when the cards are in place, is "set" by being pulled back into the notch of the catch o. When an upward force is applied by the shaft p p onto the elbow piece q q q, it presses against r, pulling back this catch and releasing the spring, which then shoots out the two cards from the mouth. The other two cards are placed in the clip s462 (see Fig. 291), which consists of two small pieces of sheet brass soldered to the end of the rod t, moving up and down like a piston in the tube u u. Inside the tube is a spiral spring that pushes s upward to the top of the head, where a slit or opening is made to allow the cards to pass through. This part of the mechanism is set by placing the two cards in the clip, then pulling down the piston rod using the cross piece v, which is riveted to it, and hooking that cross piece under the catch w. The upward movement of the shaft p, while also pulling back the catch o, also pulls back the catch w, which releases v, allowing the clip s and the two cards to spring up and appear at the top of the head.

It is hardly necessary to remark that the cards chosen by the463 audience are “forced” cards, of which duplicates have beforehand been placed in the head.

It’s hardly worth mentioning that the cards picked by the463 audience are “forced” cards, for which duplicates have already been set in place beforehand.

Fig. 292.

The Magic Picture Frame.—The performer, always borrowing, borrows this time a lady’s handkerchief, and any small articles—say a watch and a glove. These latter he rolls up in the handkerchief, and places the ball or bundle thus made upon the table. He looks about in search of his magic pistol, which is immediately afterwards brought in by the assistant. The performer places the handkerchief, etc., in the pistol, the assistant meanwhile bringing forward and placing on the table a handsome picture-frame, mounted on a stand. It contains no picture, the space which the picture should occupy being filled by a board covered with black cloth. The performer, standing at the farthest available distance from the frame, takes aim at it, and fires, when the borrowed articles are seen instantly to attach themselves to464 the black background, whence, being removed, they are handed to the owners for identification.

The Magic Photo Frame.—The performer, who often borrows items, this time takes a lady’s handkerchief and a few small things—like a watch and a glove. He rolls these items up in the handkerchief and places the bundle on the table. He scans the area for his magic pistol, which his assistant soon brings in. The performer loads the handkerchief and its contents into the pistol, while the assistant sets a nice picture frame on the table. The frame has no picture; instead, the spot where the picture should be is filled with a board covered in black cloth. The performer stands as far away as possible from the frame, aims, and fires. Instantly, the borrowed items stick to the black background, and once they are removed, they are returned to their owners for verification.

Fig. 293. Fig. 294.

The picture-frame, which is of the appearance shown in Fig. 292, and stands altogether about two feet high, is backed by a sort of wooden box, an inch and a half in depth, and a little smaller than the external measurement of the frame. The inside of this box is covered with black cloth, and in fact forms the true back of the frame; and it is upon this that the borrowed objects are fastened by means of small sharp hooks, the back opening on hinges to facilitate the doing so. An ordinary spring roller-blind, also of black cloth, works up and down just behind the opening of the frame. We have said an ordinary spring blind, but, in truth, the usual check at the side is wanting, and the blind therefore, if drawn down, instantly flies up again, unless held down from below. The blind terminates at bottom in a square lath, five-eighths of an inch in length by three-eighths in thickness, with a wire pin, half-an-inch in length, projecting at right angles from its hinder side. The ends of this lath, when the blind is drawn down, sink into two upright grooves, one at each side of the frame, thereby keeping the latter square, and the pin in a horizontal position. The catch a (an enlarged view of which is shown in Figs. 293, 294) is now hooked over the pin, as in Fig. 293, thus holding the blind down. A wire rod, attached to this catch, passes down the column on which the frame stands, and terminates in the usual disc or pedal at bottom. When an upward pressure is applied to this, the catch assumes the position shown in Fig. 294, thereby releasing the pin, and allowing the blind to fly up. The blind is represented in Fig. 292 in the act of flying up, but, in truth, its rise is so rapid as to be practically invisible.

The picture frame, as shown in Fig. 292, is about two feet tall and has a wooden box backing that is one and a half inches deep and slightly smaller than the frame's outer dimensions. The inside of this box is lined with black cloth, which serves as the actual back of the frame; the borrowed items are attached here with small sharp hooks. The back opens on hinges to make this easier. A regular spring roller blind, also made of black cloth, moves up and down just behind the frame's opening. We called it a regular spring blind, but it actually lacks the usual side check, so if the blind is pulled down, it immediately flies back up unless held down from below. The blind ends with a square lath that is five-eighths of an inch long and three-eighths of an inch thick, featuring a half-inch wire pin that sticks out at a right angle from its back side. When the blind is pulled down, the ends of this lath fit into two vertical grooves, one on each side of the frame, which keeps it square and the pin horizontal. The catch a (which is shown in an enlarged view in Figs. 293, 294) is hooked over the pin, as in Fig. 293, securing the blind in place. A wire rod connected to this catch runs down the column that supports the frame, ending in the usual disc or pedal at the bottom. When you push up on this, the catch moves to the position seen in Fig. 294, releasing the pin and letting the blind fly up. The blind is illustrated in Fig. 292 while it is flying up, but in reality, its ascent is so quick that it’s almost unnoticeable.

The sudden appearance of the articles in the frame is thus sufficiently accounted for, but it remains to be explained in what manner465 they were placed there, as they have (apparently) never been removed from the sight of the audience. It will be remembered that the smaller articles were rolled up in the handkerchief, which was then placed on the table. In truth, what is placed upon the table is a substitute handkerchief, similarly rolled up, while the original is dropped on the servante, and carried off by the assistant when he brings in the pistol. Having thus obtained possession of the articles, he quickly places them in the frame, and draws down and fastens the blind. This done, he closes the door at the back, and brings forward the frame, taking care to place it immediately over one of the pistons of the table. As the pistol is fired he pulls the cord, the blind flies up, and the articles are revealed.

The sudden appearance of the items in the frame is accounted for, but it still needs to be explained how465 they were placed there, as they have (apparently) never been out of the audience's sight. It’s worth noting that the smaller items were rolled up in the handkerchief, which was then set on the table. In reality, what’s on the table is a substitute handkerchief, also rolled up, while the original is dropped on the servante and taken away by the assistant when he brings in the pistol. After getting hold of the items, he quickly places them in the frame and pulls down and secures the blind. Once that’s done, he closes the door at the back and moves the frame forward, making sure to position it right over one of the pistons of the table. As the pistol is fired, he pulls the cord, the blind shoots up, and the items are shown.

Fig. 295.

The Flying Watches and the Broken Plate.—This is a rather more elaborate form of the trick last described. The performer collects three or four watches from the company, the assistant, meanwhile, being sent to fetch a plate. On his return, the watches are laid one by one on the plate, and he is ordered to place them on the table. In attempting to do so he trips and falls, the watches being scattered in all directions, and the plate being smashed to pieces. The performer reprimands the offender for his carelessness, and picking up the watches, finds that they are injured in various ways. After a momentary hesitation, he hits on a way of repairing the damage. Calling for his pistol, he drops the battered watches and the fragments of the plate into it, keeping all down with a wad of newspaper. The assistant now brings in the picture-frame, as in the last trick, and the performer, taking good aim, fires at it. At the instant of firing, the plate is seen restored in the centre of the frame, with the borrowed watches encircling it. The performer advances to remove and return them to the owners, but is (or appears to be) thunderstruck at perceiving that the restoration is incomplete, a large piece being missing from the plate. (See Fig. 295.) After a moment’s reflection, he discovers the cause of the defect, for, looking about upon the stage, he finds and picks up a fragment which he had overlooked when he put the rest in the pistol, and which consequently is wanting in the restored plate. He apologizes for the oversight, and proceeds to remedy it. Standing at the furthest portion of the stage, he makes the motion of466 throwing the recovered fragment towards the frame. It is seen to vanish from his hand, and the plate at the same moment appears whole as at first. The plate is removed, and with the restored watches handed to the audience for examination, when the closest inspection fails to discover any trace of fracture.

The Flying Watches and the Broken Plate.—This is a more elaborate version of the trick described earlier. The performer collects three or four watches from the audience while the assistant goes to get a plate. When he returns, the watches are placed one by one on the plate, and he is told to put them on the table. In trying to do this, he trips and falls, scattering the watches everywhere and smashing the plate to pieces. The performer scolds him for being careless, and as he picks up the watches, he sees they are damaged in different ways. After a brief pause, he comes up with a way to fix the problem. Calling for his pistol, he drops the damaged watches and the pieces of the plate into it, packing them down with a wad of newspaper. The assistant then brings in the picture frame, similar to the previous trick, and the performer takes aim and fires at it. At the moment of the shot, the plate is seen restored in the center of the frame, with the borrowed watches surrounding it. The performer approaches to remove them and return them to their owners but is (or seems to be) shocked to see that the restoration is incomplete, with a large piece missing from the plate. (See Fig. 295.) After a moment of thought, he realizes the reason for the flaw. Looking around the stage, he finds and picks up a piece he missed when putting the rest in the pistol, which explains why the restored plate is incomplete. He apologizes for the mistake and prepares to fix it. Standing at the back of the stage, he pretends to throw the recovered piece towards the frame. It disappears from his hand, and at the same moment, the plate appears whole as it did at first. The plate is removed, and the restored watches are handed to the audience for examination, where a close inspection reveals no signs of damage.

The first point to be explained is the mode in which the assistant obtains possession of the borrowed watches, in order to place them in the frame. The watches are collected by the performer in a changing apparatus (say one of the changing caddies described at page 348, or a drawer-box with a shallow inner drawer, as described at page 346). In this is placed beforehand a like number of dummy watches, and it is these latter which are placed on the plate, and meet the pre-destined downfall. The apparatus being left apparently empty, no suspicion is excited by the fact that the assistant, when sent to fetch the pistol or the frame, carries it off as no longer needed.

The first point to explain is how the assistant gets hold of the borrowed watches to put them in the frame. The performer collects the watches using a changing device (like one of the changing caddies mentioned on page 348, or a drawer-box with a shallow inner drawer, as described on page 346). Inside this device, a matching number of dummy watches is placed beforehand, and it's these dummy watches that are displayed on the plate, heading for their inevitable downfall. Since the apparatus looks empty, there's no suspicion when the assistant is sent to grab the pistol or the frame and takes it away, considering it's no longer needed.

The sudden restoration of the piece apparently wanting in the467 plate, though marvellous to the uninitiated, is really effected by very simple means. The restored plate is throughout whole and unbroken, but the effect of a piece wanting is produced by covering one portion of its outer rim with an angular piece of black velvet or alpaca, similar to that which covers the back of the frame. The illusive effect is perfect. The frame is provided with two pedals, the first releasing the black blind in front of the plate and watches, and the second serving to withdraw the angular piece of cloth already mentioned, and thus (apparently) effecting the complete restoration of the plate. The pretended disappearance of the broken piece from the hand at the moment of throwing is effected by taking it first in the left hand, and thence apparently transferring it to the right by the tourniquet, so that when the right hand is opened in the act of throwing, it is naturally found empty.

The sudden restoration of the missing piece in the467 plate, while amazing to those unfamiliar, is actually done with very simple methods. The restored plate is entirely whole and unbroken, but the effect of a missing piece is created by covering one part of its outer rim with a jagged piece of black velvet or alpaca, similar to the material that covers the back of the frame. The illusion is flawless. The frame has two pedals: the first releases the black blind in front of the plate and watches, and the second pulls away the jagged piece of cloth mentioned earlier, thus (seemingly) completing the restoration of the plate. The fake disappearance of the broken piece from the hand at the moment of throwing is achieved by first holding it in the left hand and then ostensibly transferring it to the right using the tourniquet, so that when the right hand is opened during the throw, it appears to be empty.

The Magic Picture and the Chosen Cards.—We notice this trick in this place as having a very close affinity, in effect, to the two last described. It is, however, wholly independent of stage appliances, and is equally well adapted for the drawing-room as for the platform. The performer, taking an ordinary pack of cards, allows three to be chosen. These are returned to the pack, and the pack shuffled. He then brings forward a small picture in a frame, and measuring, say, fourteen inches by twelve. Having exhibited both front and back, he entrusts the picture to a spectator to hold, and taking the pack of cards, throws them smartly against the glass, when in an instant the three chosen cards appear in front of the picture, but under the glass. The back of the frame is next taken out, and picture, back, frame, and glass are separately handed for inspection; but the closest scrutiny of the audience cannot discover any mechanism or special arrangement to account for the effect above described.

The Magic Picture and the Selected Cards.—We see this trick here as being very similar, in effect, to the last two described. However, it doesn’t rely on stage props and works just as well in a living room as on a stage. The performer takes a regular deck of cards and lets three be chosen. These are returned to the deck, which is then shuffled. Next, he presents a small picture in a frame, measuring about fourteen inches by twelve. After showing both the front and back, he hands the picture to a spectator to hold. He then takes the pack of cards and throws them against the glass, and in an instant, the three chosen cards appear in front of the picture but still under the glass. The back of the frame is then removed, and the picture, back, frame, and glass are handed out for inspection; yet, no matter how closely the audience examines them, they can't find any mechanism or special arrangement to explain the effect described above.

The reader will already have anticipated that the three cards are “forced.” The picture is on the principle of the frames last above described, with a slight variation. There are, in fact, two pictures exactly alike. One of these is pasted upon the wooden back of the frame, and upon this are fastened duplicates of the cards to be chosen. The second picture is mounted on cloth, and works on a spring468 roller artfully concealed in the upper part of the frame, taking, in fact, the place of the black blind in the other frames. This is kept down by a pin at the lower side of the frame, and is so arranged as to be released by the smallest pressure against the glass. The pack of cards, smartly thrown, supplies this pressure. The foremost picture flies up, and reveals apparently the same, but really a similar picture, with the chosen cards between it and the glass.

The reader will have realized that the three cards are “forced.” The design follows the principle of the frames mentioned earlier, with a slight twist. In fact, there are two identical pictures. One is glued to the wooden back of the frame, and duplicates of the cards to be selected are attached to it. The second picture is mounted on fabric and operates on a spring roller cleverly hidden in the upper part of the frame, effectively replacing the black blind in the other frames. This is held down by a pin on the lower side of the frame and is set up to be released with the slightest pressure against the glass. The pack of cards, tossed in a stylish manner, provides this pressure. The top picture pops up and reveals what looks like the same image, but is actually a similar one, with the chosen cards positioned between it and the glass.468

The Magic Portfolio.—The performer comes forward with a large portfolio, such as is used to contain engravings, and barely an inch in thickness. This he places sideways to the audience, upon a stand or trestle, thereby raising it to a convenient height, and at the same time negativing the possibility of its having any communication with the floor of the stage. Standing behind it, he proceeds to take from it a number of large engravings, then a couple of lady’s bonnets of the latest fashion, and showing no sign of creasing or compression. These are followed by a large bird-cage, containing a number of living birds; and finally by three brass stew-pans, one containing haricot beans; a second, water; and a third, fire. Other articles are sometimes produced, but the above are those most generally used.

The Magic Portfolio.—The performer steps up with a large portfolio, similar to those used for holding engravings, and it’s only about an inch thick. He places it sideways to the audience on a stand or trestle, raising it to a comfortable height and ensuring it doesn’t touch the stage floor. Standing behind it, he starts pulling out several large engravings, then a couple of stylish lady’s bonnets that show no signs of creasing or being squished. Next, he produces a large birdcage filled with live birds, and finally, three brass stew-pans—one with haricot beans, another with water, and the last with fire. Sometimes other items are brought out too, but these are the most commonly used.

This really surprising trick is performed by the simplest possible means. The bonnets and the bird-cage are made to fold nearly flat, on the principle of the reticules and bird-cages described at pages 309 and 311. In this flattened condition they are placed in the portfolio, which being turned sideways to the audience, and the performer standing behind it, the side which is towards the spectators naturally forms a cover for the operator, and gives him every facility for developing the folded articles. The stew-pans, however, cannot be made thus compressible, and consequently a different plan is adopted in respect of them. These have india-rubber covers, after the manner of the bowls of gold-fish, and, like them, are concealed about the person of the performer, who, producing them under cover of the portfolio, appears to take them out of it. The pan for the fire contains a little spirits of wine, which the performer, still behind the portfolio, ignites with a wax match before producing this particular pan.

This really surprising trick is done using the simplest methods. The bonnets and the birdcage both fold nearly flat, similar to the reticules and birdcages described on pages 309 and 311. In this flattened state, they're placed in the portfolio, which is turned sideways to the audience, while the performer stands behind it. The side facing the spectators naturally acts as a cover for the performer, giving him full access to develop the folded items. However, the stew-pans can't be made compressible, so a different method is used for them. These have rubber covers, like the bowls of goldfish, and are hidden on the performer's body. When the performer pulls them out under the cover of the portfolio, it looks like he’s taking them from it. The pan for the fire has a bit of spirits of wine, which the performer ignites with a wax match while still behind the portfolio before producing this specific pan.

Where it is desired to produce a child, or other specially bulky object, the portfolio is for a moment placed on the table, behind469 which such object is placed. The object having been introduced into the portfolio, the latter is then transferred to the proper stand.

Where there’s a need to create a child or another large object, the portfolio is briefly set down on the table, behind469 which the object is placed. Once the object is inside the portfolio, it is then moved to the appropriate stand.

The Glove Column.—This is an ornamental column, sometimes of brass, sometimes of glass, on a massive foot and standing about two and a half feet high. It is surmounted by a metal cup, about an inch and a half in depth and two inches in diameter.

The Glove Column.—This is a decorative column, sometimes made of brass and sometimes of glass, mounted on a sturdy base and standing roughly two and a half feet tall. It is topped with a metal cup that is about an inch and a half deep and two inches wide.

The mode of using the column is as follows:—Three or four rings are borrowed, also a white kid glove, and the whole are placed in the magic pistol. The column is then brought in, and placed upon the table. The magician takes aim at it, and fires. At the instant of his doing so, the glove, expanded as though containing a living hand, appears at the top of the pillar, with one of the borrowed rings on each of its fingers.

The way to use the column is as follows: three or four rings are borrowed, along with a white kidskin glove, and everything is placed inside the magic pistol. The column is then brought in and set on the table. The magician takes aim at it and fires. At that moment, the glove, opened as if it has a living hand inside, appears at the top of the column, with one of the borrowed rings on each of its fingers.

The glove and rings, as the reader will probably conjecture, are exchanged at an early period of the trick. There are plenty of ways of effecting this exchange. Perhaps, as regards the rings, the expedient of having them collected on the performer’s wand by the assistant (see page 399) is as good as any. The assistant, having thus gained possession of the borrowed articles, arranges them as follows:—The glove is placed upon the end of a tube, which runs through the whole length of the column, terminating just within the cup at top, and is kept in position by an india-rubber ring slipped over it, and holding it tight to the tube. One of the borrowed rings is now placed over each of the fingers, and the glove thus prepared is pressed down into the cup, so as not to show above the rim. The column is now placed upon the table in such manner that the lower opening of the tube shall correspond with a small hole in the table, communicating by means of an india-rubber tube with a hollow ball of the same material, filled with air, and so placed as to be within reach of the hand or foot of the assistant. At the moment of firing a smart pressure is applied to the ball, thus causing a rush of air through the tube, and inflating the glove, which instantly springs up into a perpendicular position, with the rings upon it. The articles are now returned to the owners, and are identified as those which were borrowed.

The glove and rings, as you might guess, are swapped early on in the trick. There are many ways to make this exchange happen. One good method for the rings is to have the assistant collect them on the performer’s wand (see page 399). After getting the borrowed items, the assistant arranges them like this: The glove is placed at the end of a tube that runs the entire length of the column, ending just below the cup at the top, and is held in place by a rubber ring that keeps it tight against the tube. One of the borrowed rings is then slipped over each finger, and the prepared glove is pushed down into the cup so it doesn’t show above the rim. The column is set on the table so that the lower opening of the tube lines up with a small hole in the table, which connects through a rubber tube to a hollow ball made of the same material, positioned within reach of the assistant's hand or foot. At the moment of firing, a quick press is applied to the ball, causing a rush of air through the tube that inflates the glove, making it spring up into a straight position with the rings on it. The items are then returned to their owners, who confirm they are the ones that were borrowed.

Some columns have a large hollow black or gilt ball at the top,470 divided vertically into two parts, and so arranged as to fall apart at the moment of the inflation of the glove.

Some columns have a big hollow black or gold ball on top,470 split vertically into two sections, and designed to come apart right when the glove inflates.

The Vanishing Pocket Handkerchief, found in a Candle.—This was a favourite trick of Robert-Houdin, by whom, we believe, it was invented. The performer borrows a lady’s handkerchief, drawing particular attention to the fact that he takes the first handkerchief which may be offered, and that it is wholly free from preparation. Fixing upon some gentleman among the audience, he asks him if he thinks he could set fire to the handkerchief. The person addressed naturally expresses his belief that he could. The performer ventures to doubt it, and at once fetches a lighted candle to enable him to try the experiment, meanwhile spreading the borrowed handkerchief over the top of a small round table, or guéridon, where it remains in full view of the spectators, showing clearly that it is not tampered with in any way. Returning with the candle, the performer hands it to the gentleman, and requests him to go and set fire to the handkerchief. Hardly, however, has he taken the first step to do so, when the handkerchief suddenly vanishes, its disappearance being so rapid that the spectators cannot even decide in which direction it travelled. The performer accuses the gentleman, who is still holding the candlestick, of having the handkerchief about him. This he naturally denies. The professor insists, and after keeping up the dispute as long as the audience are amused by it, offers to prove his assertion, and taking the candle from the candlestick, breaks it in half, and produces from it the borrowed handkerchief, which is immediately identified by the owner.

The Disappearing Pocket Handkerchief, located in a Candle.—This was a favorite trick of Robert-Houdin, who we believe invented it. The performer borrows a lady’s handkerchief, making sure to emphasize that he takes the first handkerchief offered and that it is completely unprepared. He picks a gentleman from the audience and asks if he thinks he could set the handkerchief on fire. The gentleman understandably says he could. The performer expresses doubt and quickly gets a lit candle for him to try the experiment, while spreading the borrowed handkerchief over the top of a small round table, or guéridon, ensuring it remains clearly visible to the audience, showing that it hasn't been tampered with at all. After returning with the candle, the performer hands it to the gentleman, asking him to go ahead and set the handkerchief on fire. However, just as the gentleman takes his first step to do so, the handkerchief suddenly vanishes, disappearing so quickly that the audience can't even tell where it went. The performer accuses the gentleman, who is still holding the candlestick, of having the handkerchief on him, which he naturally denies. The professor insists and keeps up the argument as long as the audience finds it entertaining, then offers to prove his claim. He takes the candle from the candlestick, breaks it in half, and pulls out the borrowed handkerchief, which is immediately recognized by its owner.

This capital trick requires the aid of a special table. The top is thin, and without fringe or ornament of any kind, allowing no apparent space for the concealment of even the smallest article. The centre pillar, however, is a hollow tube, and it is into this that the handkerchief is made to vanish. The first step in the trick is to exchange the handkerchief for a substitute. (See page 240.) This substitute is spread over the top of the table. The real handkerchief the performer carries with him when he leaves the stage under the pretence of fetching the candle, and utilizes his momentary absence in placing it inside the candle, which is hollow, and of the description471 mentioned at page 251. When the gentleman advances to set fire to the handkerchief, the pulling of a string by the assistant causes a clip to rise up in the centre of the table, and nip the middle of the handkerchief, which is instantly drawn down within the tube through a small trap at its upper extremity.

This magic trick needs a special table. The top is flat, without any fringe or decoration, leaving no visible space to hide even the tiniest item. However, the central pillar is a hollow tube, and that’s where the handkerchief disappears. The first step in the trick is to swap the handkerchief for a fake one. (See page 240.) This fake is laid out on the top of the table. The real handkerchief is kept by the performer while he pretends to go get the candle, using that brief moment to place it inside the hollow candle described on page 251. When the gentleman goes to light the handkerchief, the assistant pulls a string, which makes a clip rise in the center of the table and grab the middle of the handkerchief, which is then quickly pulled down into the tube through a small opening at the top.

The Sphinx.—Few tricks have of late years caused so great a sensation as this now well-known illusion, which was first introduced to the London public by the late Colonel Stodare, in 1865. We cannot better preface the explanation of the trick than by quoting a portion of the Times notice on the subject, of October 19, 1865:—

The Sphinx.—Few tricks in recent years have made such a huge impact as this now-famous illusion, which was first presented to the London audience by the late Colonel Stodare in 1865. We can't introduce the explanation of the trick any better than by quoting a portion of the Times notice on the subject from October 19, 1865:—

“... Most intricate is the problem proposed by Colonel Stodare, when, in addition to his admirable feats of ventriloquism and legerdemain, he presents to his patrons a novel illusion called the ‘Sphinx.’ Placing upon an uncovered table a chest similar in size to the cases commonly occupied by stuffed dogs or foxes, he removes the side facing the spectators, and reveals a head attired after the fashion of an Egyptian Sphinx. To avoid the suspicion of ventriloquism, he retires to a distance from the figure supposed to be too great for the practice of that art, taking his position on the borderline of the stalls and the area, while the chest is on the stage. Thus stationed, he calls upon the Sphinx to open its eyes, which it does—to smile, which it does also, though the habitual expression of its countenance is most melancholy, and to make a speech, which it does also, this being the miraculous part of the exhibition. Not only with perspicuity, but with something like eloquence, does it utter some twenty lines of verse; and while its countenance is animated and expressive, the movement of the lips, in which there is nothing mechanical, exactly corresponds to the sounds articulated.

“... The problem presented by Colonel Stodare is the most complex. In addition to his impressive skills in ventriloquism and sleight of hand, he showcases a new illusion called the ‘Sphinx.’ He places a chest on an uncovered table, similar in size to those used for stuffed dogs or foxes, and removes the side facing the audience to reveal a head dressed like an Egyptian Sphinx. To eliminate any doubt about ventriloquism, he steps back from the figure to a distance that seems too far for that trick, positioning himself at the edge of the stalls and the area while the chest sits on the stage. From there, he instructs the Sphinx to open its eyes, which it does; to smile, which it also does, although its usual expression is quite sad; and to speak, which it also does, making this the remarkable part of the show. Not only does it speak clearly, but it also shows a level of eloquence as it recites about twenty lines of verse. While its face is animated and expressive, the movement of its lips matches the sounds perfectly, with nothing mechanical about it.”

“This is certainly one of the most extraordinary illusions ever presented to the public. That the speech is spoken by a human voice there is no doubt; but how is a head to be contrived which, being detached from anything like a body, confined in a case, which it completely fills, and placed on a bare-legged table, will accompany a speech, that apparently proceeds from its lips, with a strictly appropriate movement of the mouth, and a play of the countenance that is the reverse of mechanical? Eels, as we all know, can wriggle about472 after they have been chopped into half-a-dozen pieces; but a head that, like that of the Physician Douban, in the Arabian tales, pursues its eloquence after it has been severed from its body, scarcely comes within the reach of possibilities; unless, indeed, the old-fashioned assertion that ‘King Charles walked and talked half-an-hour after his head was cut off,’ is to be received, not as an illustration of defective punctuation, but as a positive historical statement.

“This is definitely one of the most amazing illusions ever shown to the public. There's no doubt that the speech comes from a human voice, but how is a head created that, detached from any sort of body, fits perfectly in a case, and placed on a bare table, will move its mouth in sync with a speech that seems to come from its lips, along with facial expressions that are anything but mechanical? Eels, as we all know, can still wiggle around after being chopped into several pieces; but a head that, like that of the Physician Douban in Arabian tales, continues to speak after being cut off from its body, is hardly within the realm of possibility; unless, of course, the old claim that ‘King Charles walked and talked for half an hour after his head was cut off’ is taken seriously, not as a quirky example of bad punctuation, but as a factual historical account.”

“Davus might have solved the ‘Anthropoglossus,’ but Colonel Stodare presents us with a Sphinx that is really worthy of an Œdipus.”

“Davus might have figured out the ‘Anthropoglossus,’ but Colonel Stodare offers us a Sphinx that's truly deserving of an Œdipus.”

For the benefit of those who have never seen this illusion presented upon the stage, we will describe its effect a little more minutely. The Sphinx is always made a separate portion of the entertainment, as it is necessary to lower the curtain for a few moments before and after its appearance, in order to arrange and remove the necessary preparations. The curtain rises, and reveals a round or oval table, supported upon three slender legs, and utterly devoid of drapery. This stands in a curtained recess of ten or twelve feet square, open on the side towards the audience. The performer comes forward bearing a cloth-covered box, fifteen to twenty inches square, and places it upon the table already mentioned. He then unlocks the box, the front of which drops down, so as to give a perfect view of the interior, in which is seen a head of Egyptian fashion, and coloured in perfect imitation of life. (See Frontispiece.) The performer now retires to a position in the very midst of the audience, and raising his wand, says in a tone of command, “Sphinx, awake!” The Sphinx slowly opens its eyes, looking first to the front with a strong gaze; then, as if gradually gaining consciousness, to the one side and the other, the head moving slightly with the eyes. Questions are put by the performer to the head, and are answered by it, the play of the mouth and features being in perfect harmony with the sounds uttered. Finally, in answer to a query of the operator, the Sphinx declaims a neatly turned oracle in verse. This concludes the exhibition, and the performer closes the box. Should the audience call for an encore, the performer addresses them to the following or some similar effect:—“Ladies and gentlemen, I am glad that the Sphinx has afforded you satisfaction, and I should be only too pleased to be able to indulge the473 desire which you kindly testify of seeing it again. Unfortunately, this is not possible. The charm by which I am enabled, as you have seen, to revivify for a space the ashes of an ancient Egyptian, who lived and died some centuries ago, lasts but for fifteen minutes. That time has now expired, and the head which has astonished you with its mysterious eloquence has again returned to its original dust.” As he speaks the last words, he again opens the box, and the head is found to have disappeared, leaving in its place a handful of ashes.

For those who have never seen this illusion performed on stage, we'll describe its effect in a bit more detail. The Sphinx is always presented as a separate part of the show, as the curtain needs to be lowered for a few moments before and after its appearance to set up and take down the necessary props. The curtain rises, revealing a round or oval table supported by three thin legs and completely bare of drapery. This table stands in a curtained area that’s about ten to twelve feet square, which is open towards the audience. The performer steps forward with a box covered by a cloth, about fifteen to twenty inches square, and places it on the table. He then unlocks the box, and the front drops down, giving a full view of the inside, where a head styled like an Egyptian one is displayed, perfectly colored to look lifelike. (See Frontispiece.) The performer then steps back to stand among the audience and raises his wand, commanding, “Sphinx, awake!” The Sphinx slowly opens its eyes, initially gazing straight ahead with intensity, then gradually looking to either side as if becoming more aware, its head moving slightly with its eyes. The performer asks the head questions, and it responds, the movements of its mouth and features perfectly matching the sounds it makes. Ultimately, in response to a question from the performer, the Sphinx delivers a neatly crafted oracle in verse. This wraps up the presentation, and the performer closes the box. If the audience calls for an encore, the performer addresses them with something like: “Ladies and gentlemen, I’m delighted that the Sphinx has pleased you, and I would love to fulfill your request to see it again. Unfortunately, that’s not possible. The magic that allows me to briefly bring back the ashes of an ancient Egyptian who lived and died centuries ago lasts only fifteen minutes. That time has now passed, and the head that amazed you with its mysterious speech has returned to its original dust.” As he utters these final words, he opens the box again, and the head is gone, replaced by a handful of ashes.

Fig. 296. Fig. 297.

This singular illusion depends upon the well-known principle, common to optics as to mechanics, that “the angle of reflection is equal to the angle of incidence.” Thus, if a person standing at the point a, in Fig. 296, look into a mirror placed in the position indicated by the line b c, he will see reflected, not himself, but whatever object may be placed at the point d. By an ingenious application of this principle a looking-glass may be used to conceal a given object behind it, while at the same time an image reflected in the glass may be made to represent what would be presumably seen if no glass were there, and thus prevent the presence of the mirror from being suspected. This is the secret of the Sphinx. The table, as already mentioned, has three legs, one in front, and one at each side. Between these legs the spectator sees apparently the curtains at the back of the recess, but really a reflection of the curtains at the sides. The space between the middle leg and that on either side is occupied by474 pieces of looking-glass (see Fig. 297, which represents a ground plan of the arrangement), extending from a to b, and a to c. The glass extends quite down to the floor, which is covered with cloth of the same material and colour as the surrounding curtains. The spectators, therefore, looking towards the table, see above it the curtains at the back, and below it the reflection of the curtains at the sides; which, however, if the relative angles are properly arranged, appears to be simply the continuation or lower portion of the curtains at the back. The illusion is perfect, and the spectator, from the position assigned to him, cannot possibly discover, by the evidence of his senses, that he is looking at any other than an ordinary bare-legged table, with the background visible in the usual way.

This unique illusion relies on the well-known principle, common to both optics and mechanics, that “the angle of reflection is equal to the angle of incidence.” So, if someone standing at point a, in Fig. 296, looks into a mirror positioned along line b c, they will see reflected not themselves, but whatever object is at point d. By cleverly applying this principle, a mirror can be used to hide an object behind it while simultaneously reflecting an image that seems like what would be seen if the mirror weren't there, making the mirror's presence undetectable. This is the secret of the Sphinx. The table, as mentioned earlier, has three legs: one in front and one on each side. Between these legs, the viewer sees what looks like the curtains at the back of the recess but is actually a reflection of the curtains on the sides. The space between the middle leg and the ones on either side is filled with474 pieces of mirror (see Fig. 297, which shows a ground plan of the layout), extending from a to b, and a to c. The glass goes all the way down to the floor, which is covered with fabric of the same material and color as the surrounding curtains. Therefore, spectators looking at the table see the curtains at the back above it and the reflection of the side curtains below it; if the angles are arranged correctly, it appears to be just an extension or lower portion of the curtains at the back. The illusion is flawless, and from their assigned position, spectators cannot possibly realize that they are looking at anything other than a regular table with bare legs, with the background visible in the usual way.

The rest is a very simple matter. The person who is to represent the Sphinx is beforehand placed, duly attired, underneath the table. There is a trap in the table through which he can pass his head at the proper moment. This trap is a round piece of wood, covered to match the surface of the table, and working on a hinge on the side nearest to the audience. It has no spring, but is kept closed by means of a button on the opposite side, and when released hangs down perpendicularly. It must be large enough to allow the passage of the somewhat elaborate headpiece of the Sphinx, and would therefore leave an open space visible round the neck. This difficulty is met by the expedient of having a wooden collar, whose upper surface is a facsimile in size and pattern of the trap, fastened round the neck of the representative of the Sphinx. When he lifts his head up through the trap, this collar exactly fills the opening, and thus shows no break in the surface of the table. The box is bottomless, and when brought forward by the performer is empty. A little caution has to be observed in placing it upon the table, for, if the performer were to approach the table from the side, his legs would be reflected in the glass, and would thereby betray the secret. He must therefore make his appearance from some quarter outside of the curtained recess, and advance to a position well in front of, and at some little distance from the table, when, by moving in a straight line from the audience towards the middle leg a, he prevents this inconvenient reflection. The placing the box upon the table, and the unlocking it, allow time for the representative of the Sphinx to get his head into475 position within it. This done, the box is opened, and the rest depends on the dramatic talent of the performer and his assistant. The performance being concluded, the box is again locked, and the head withdrawn, a handful of ashes being introduced on the trap in its stead.

The rest is really straightforward. The person who will represent the Sphinx is placed underneath the table, dressed appropriately. There’s a trap in the table that allows him to pass his head through at the right moment. This trap is a round piece of wood that matches the table’s surface and is hinged on the side closest to the audience. It doesn’t have a spring but stays closed with a button on the opposite side and, when released, falls down straight. It needs to be big enough to let the detailed headpiece of the Sphinx through, which means an open space will be visible around the neck. This issue is solved by using a wooden collar, which has an upper surface that looks just like the trap and is attached around the neck of the Sphinx representative. When he lifts his head through the trap, this collar perfectly fills the opening, so there’s no visible break in the table’s surface. The box is bottomless, and when the performer brings it forward, it appears empty. Care must be taken when placing it on the table because if the performer approaches it from the side, his legs could be reflected in the glass, revealing the trick. He should come from somewhere outside the curtained area and move directly in front of the table while keeping a bit of distance, which prevents that problematic reflection. Setting the box on the table and unlocking it gives the representative enough time to position his head inside it. Once that’s done, the box is opened, and the rest relies on the acting skills of the performer and their assistant. After the performance, the box is locked again, the head is withdrawn, and a handful of ashes is placed on the trap instead.

The angle at which the two mirrors should be set cannot be determined absolutely, but will vary according to the distance and position of the surrounding drapery.

The angle at which the two mirrors should be positioned can't be determined exactly, but will change based on the distance and placement of the surrounding drapery.

Some performers use a shawl or a screen of cardboard in place of the box, but we doubt whether any method is more effective than that above described.

Some performers use a shawl or a cardboard screen instead of the box, but we doubt any method is more effective than the one described above.

The ghastly illusion of the so-called “Decapitated Head,” which drew crowds to the Polytechnic some few years since, was merely the “Sphinx” in a less pleasant form.

The terrifying illusion of the so-called “Decapitated Head,” which attracted crowds to the Polytechnic a few years ago, was just the “Sphinx” in a less appealing form.

Fig. 298.

The Cabinet of Proteus.—This is another adaptation of the principle on which the Sphinx illusion is founded. It is the joint invention of Messrs. Pepper and Tobin, by whom it was patented in 1865. The first steps towards a patent for the Sphinx were also taken in the same year, but the latter invention never proceeded beyond provisional protection. The Cabinet of Proteus is a wooden closet, seven to eight feet in height by four or five feet square, supported on short legs, so as to exclude the idea of any communication with the floor. (See Fig. 298.) It has folding doors, and an upright pillar extends from top to bottom of the interior, at about the centre of the cabinet. At the top of this pillar, in front, is fixed a lamp, so that the whole of the interior is brightly illuminated.

The Proteus Cabinet.—This is another version of the principle that the Sphinx illusion is based on. It was jointly invented by Messrs. Pepper and Tobin, who patented it in 1865. The early steps toward a patent for the Sphinx were also taken in that same year, but that invention never advanced beyond provisional protection. The Cabinet of Proteus is a wooden closet, seven to eight feet tall and four or five feet wide, and it stands on short legs to eliminate any idea of contact with the floor. (See Fig. 298.) It has folding doors, and an upright pillar runs from the top to the bottom of the interior, roughly in the center of the cabinet. At the top of this pillar, in front, there’s a lamp that brightly illuminates the entire interior.

476

476

Fig. 299.

The cabinet may be used in various ways. One of the most striking is as follows:—The folding doors are opened, disclosing the interior perfectly empty. (See Fig. 299.) The exhibitor directs his assistant to walk into the cabinet. He does so, and the doors are closed. Meanwhile, a couple of gentlemen, selected by the audience, are invited to stand behind or beside the cabinet, and see that no one obtains ingress or egress by any secret opening. Notwithstanding these precautions, when the doors are again opened, the assistant is found to have vanished, and another person, different in dress, in stature, and in complexion, is found in his place. This person steps forth, makes his bow, and retires. Again the cabinet, now empty, is closed, and after an interval of a few moments, again opened. This time a human skeleton is found to occupy the vacant space. This ghastly object having been removed, and the door having been once more closed and opened, another person, say a lady, appears. This person having retired, the doors are again closed; and when they are again opened, the person who first entered is once more found within. A committee from the audience are now invited to examine the cabinet within and without, out all their scrutiny cannot detect any hidden space, even sufficient to conceal a mouse.

The cabinet can be used in various ways. One of the most impressive is as follows:—The folding doors are opened, revealing the interior completely empty. (See Fig. 299.) The exhibitor tells his assistant to walk into the cabinet. He does so, and the doors are closed. Meanwhile, a couple of gentlemen chosen by the audience are invited to stand behind or beside the cabinet to ensure that no one enters or exits through any secret openings. Despite these precautions, when the doors are opened again, the assistant has vanished, and another person, different in clothing, height, and appearance, is found in his place. This person steps forward, takes a bow, and leaves. Once more, the cabinet, now empty, is closed, and after a few moments, it is opened again. This time, a human skeleton is found in the vacant space. After this shocking item is removed, and the door is closed and reopened, another person, let's say a lady, appears. After she leaves, the doors are closed again, and when they are opened once more, the original person is found inside again. A committee from the audience is then invited to examine the cabinet inside and out, but despite their thorough inspection, they cannot find any hidden spaces, not even enough to hide a mouse.

Fig. 300.

An examination of Fig. 300, representing a ground plan of the cabinet, will make plain the seeming mystery. A moveable flap a b, working on hinges at b, extends from top to bottom of each side,477 resting when thrown open against the post c in the middle, and thus enclosing a triangular space at the back of the cabinet. The outer surfaces of these flaps (i.e., the surfaces exposed when they are folded back against the sides of the cabinet) are, like the rest of the interior, covered with wall paper, of a crimson or other dark colour. The opposite sides of the flaps are of looking-glass, and when the flaps are folded back against the posts, reflect the surfaces against which they previously rested, and which are covered with paper of the same pattern as the rest. The effect to the eye of the spectator is that of a perfectly empty chamber, though, as we have seen, there is in reality an enclosed triangular space behind the post. This is capable of containing two or three persons, and here it is that the persons and things intended to appear in succession are concealed. The assistant, entering in sight of the audience, changes places, as soon as the door is closed, with one of the other persons. This person having retired, and the door being again closed, those who are still within place the skeleton in position in front of the post, and again retire to their hiding-place. When all the rest have appeared, the person who first entered presses the flaps against the sides of the cabinet, against which they are retained by a spring lock on each side, and the public may then safely be admitted, as their closest inspection cannot possibly discover the secret.

An examination of Fig. 300, showing a floor plan of the cabinet, will clarify the apparent mystery. A movable flap a b, attached with hinges at b, extends from the top to the bottom of each side, resting when opened against the post c in the center, thus enclosing a triangular space at the back of the cabinet. The outer surfaces of these flaps (i.e., the surfaces exposed when they are folded back against the sides of the cabinet) are, like the rest of the interior, covered with wallpaper, in a crimson or other dark color. The inner sides of the flaps are mirrored, and when the flaps are folded back against the posts, they reflect the surfaces they previously rested against, which are covered with the same patterned paper. To the eye of the observer, it appears as a completely empty room, although, as we've noted, there is actually a concealed triangular space behind the post. This space can fit two or three people, and this is where the individuals and items meant to appear in sequence are hidden. The assistant, visible to the audience, switches places with one of the other individuals as soon as the door closes. After that person has exited and the door is closed again, those who are still inside place the skeleton in position in front of the post and retreat to their hiding spot. Once everyone else has appeared, the first person who entered presses the flaps against the cabinet sides, where they are held in place by a spring lock on each side, and then the audience can safely be admitted, as a close inspection will not reveal the secret.

The Indian Basket Trick.—This is another of the sensational feats identified with the name of Colonel Stodare, and is imitated from a similar illusion performed by the Indian conjurors. It is not a pleasant trick to witness, but, like the “Decapitated Head,” it drew immense crowds, its fictitious horror being apparently its chief attraction. Its effect, as the trick was originally presented by Stodare, is as follows:—A large oblong basket, say five feet by two, and as deep as wide, is brought in, and placed on a low stand or bench, so as to be raised clear of the stage. The performer comes forward with a drawn sword in his right hand, and leading with the other hand a478 young lady, dressed in a closely-fitting robe of black velvet. Reproaching her upon some pretended ground of complaint, he declares that she must be punished, and forthwith begins to blindfold her eyes. She simulates terror, begging for mercy, and finally escaping from him, runs off the stage. He follows her, and instantly reappears, dragging her by the wrist. Regardless of her sobs and cries, he compels her to enter the basket, in which she lies down, and the lid is closed. Simulating an access of fury, he thrusts the sword through the basket (from the front) in various places. Piercing screams are heard from the interior, and the sword when withdrawn is seen to be red with blood. The screams gradually subside, and all is still. A thrill of horror runs through the audience, who are half inclined to call in the police, and hand over the professor to the nearest magistrate. For a moment there is a pause, and then the performer, calmly wiping the bloody sword on a white pocket-handkerchief, says, “Ladies and gentlemen, I fear you imagine that I have hurt the lady who was the subject of this experiment. Pray disabuse yourselves of such an idea. She had disobeyed me, and I therefore determined to punish her by giving her a little fright; but nothing more. The fact is, she had left the basket some time before I thrust the sword into it. You don’t believe me, I see. Allow me to show you, in the first place, that the basket is empty.” He turns over the basket accordingly, and shows that the lady has vanished. “Should you desire further proof, the lady will answer for herself.” The lady at this moment comes forward from a different portion of the room, and having made her bow, retires.

The Indian Basket Trick.—This is another sensational act associated with Colonel Stodare, inspired by a similar illusion performed by Indian magicians. It's not exactly a pleasant trick to watch, but like the “Decapitated Head,” it attracted huge crowds, with its fake horror seemingly being its main draw. Here’s how the trick was originally presented by Stodare: A large rectangular basket, about five feet long, two feet wide, and as deep as it is wide, is brought in and placed on a low stand or bench to keep it off the stage. The performer steps forward with a drawn sword in his right hand, leading a young lady dressed in a tight black velvet robe with his other hand. He pretends to scold her for some made-up reason, announcing that she must be punished, and then blindfolds her. She acts terrified, pleading for mercy, and eventually manages to escape, running off the stage. He chases her and quickly reappears, dragging her by the wrist. Ignoring her sobs and cries, he forces her into the basket, where she lays down, and he closes the lid. Acting furious, he stabs the sword through the basket (from the front) in various spots. Blood-curdling screams come from inside, and when he pulls the sword out, it's covered in blood. The screams slowly fade, and silence falls. A wave of horror sweeps through the audience, who are tempted to call the police and turn over the professor to the nearest magistrate. After a brief pause, the performer, calmly wiping the bloody sword on a white handkerchief, says, “Ladies and gentlemen, I fear you think I’ve harmed the lady involved in this act. Please clear your minds of that notion. She disobeyed me, so I decided to punish her with a little scare, but nothing more. The truth is, she left the basket long before I stabbed it. You don’t believe me, I see. Let me first show you that the basket is empty.” He turns the basket over to reveal that the lady has vanished. “If you want more proof, the lady will speak for herself.” At that moment, the lady appears from another part of the room, bows, and then exits.

This startling illusion is performed as follows:—To begin with, there are two ladies employed, in figure and general appearance as nearly alike as possible. Their dress is also exactly similar. The little dramatic scene with which the trick commences is designed to impress upon the audience the features of the lady who first appears. When she is blindfolded, she, as already mentioned, runs off the stage. The performer runs after her, and apparently bringing her back, really brings back in her place the second lady, who is standing in readiness, blindfolded in precisely the same way, behind the scenes. As the bandage covers the greater part of her features, there is little fear of the spectators detecting the substitution that has taken place. The479 substitute lady now enters the basket, where she lies, compressing herself into as small a compass as possible, along the back. Knowing the position which she occupies, it is not a very difficult matter for the operator so to direct the thrusts of the sword as to avoid any risk of injuring her. The chief thing to be attended to for this purpose is to thrust always in an upward direction. The appearance of blood on the sword may be produced either by the lady in the basket drawing along the blade, as it is withdrawn after each thrust, a sponge saturated with some crimson fluid, or by a mechanical arrangement in the hilt, causing the supposed blood, on pressure, to trickle down the blade.

This impressive illusion works like this: First, there are two ladies who look very much alike in appearance and style. They wear identical outfits. The short scene at the start aims to make the audience notice the features of the first lady who appears. When she's blindfolded, she, as mentioned earlier, runs off the stage. The performer follows her and seems to bring her back, but instead, he actually brings out the second lady, who is prepared and also blindfolded just like the first one, waiting behind the scenes. Since the bandage covers most of her face, the audience is unlikely to notice the switch that has occurred. The479 substitute lady then gets into the basket, where she positions herself as compactly as possible along the back. Knowing her position makes it relatively simple for the performer to direct the sword thrusts in a way that avoids injury. The key point is to always thrust in an upward direction. The appearance of blood on the sword can be created either by the lady in the basket pulling a sponge soaked in red liquid along the blade as it’s pulled out after each thrust, or by a mechanical setup in the hilt that allows the fake blood to trickle down the blade when pressure is applied.

Fig. 301.

The only point that remains to be explained is the difficulty which will probably already have suggested itself to the reader, viz., “How does the performer manage to show the basket empty at the close of the trick?” Simply by having the basket made on the principle of the480 “inexhaustible box,” described at page 391. The performer takes care to tilt the basket over to the front before he raises the lid. This leaves the lady lying on the true bottom of the basket (see Fig. 302), while a moveable flap, fixed at right angles to the bottom, and lying in its normal position flat against the front of the basket, for the time being represents the bottom to the eyes of the audience. While the basket is thus shown apparently empty, the lady who first appeared in the trick comes forward, and is immediately recognized by the audience; and as they are fully persuaded that she was the person placed in the basket, the inference that she has escaped from it by some quasi-supernatural means seems inevitable.

The only point left to explain is the difficulty that you, the reader, may have already thought about: “How does the performer manage to show the basket as empty at the end of the trick?” It’s simple—he uses a basket designed based on the principle of the 480 “inexhaustible box,” explained on page 391. The performer makes sure to tilt the basket forward before lifting the lid. This allows the lady to lie on the actual bottom of the basket (see Fig. 302), while a movable flap, positioned at a right angle to the bottom and resting flat against the front of the basket, temporarily creates the illusion of the bottom to the audience. While the basket appears empty, the lady who first appeared in the trick steps forward, instantly recognized by the audience. Since they are convinced she was the person placed in the basket, it's a given that they think she has escaped by some kind of supernatural means.

The above is the form in which the trick was first introduced to the London public, but another modus operandi has since been adopted by some performers. The low table or bench on which the basket is placed is in this case constructed on the principle of the Sphinx-table, with looking-glass between the legs, and with a large trap in the top. The basket used is not made like the inexhaustible box, but the bottom is moveable, and hinged against the front, so as to lift up flat against it when required. One lady only is employed. When she is about to step into the basket, the bottom is pushed up from below, and she thus steps through the basket and the table, and thence passes, through a trap-door, beneath the stage. The basket is then closed, and the bottom allowed to fall back into its place. As the basket is left in this case empty, the performer may thrust into it in any direction at pleasure, the screams being uttered by the lady from her safe quarters below. At the proper moment the performer lifts the basket bodily off the table, and shows it really empty, while the lady, as in the former case, reappears in some other quarter.

The above is the way the trick was first introduced to the London audience, but some performers have since adopted a different modus operandi. In this case, the low table or bench that holds the basket is designed like the Sphinx table, with a mirror between the legs and a large trapdoor on top. The basket isn’t like the endless box; instead, it has a movable bottom that hinges against the front, allowing it to lift up flat against it when needed. Only one lady is involved. Just as she’s about to step into the basket, the bottom is pushed up from below, allowing her to step through the basket and the table, then down through a trapdoor beneath the stage. The basket is then closed and the bottom is allowed to fall back into place. Since the basket is left empty in this scenario, the performer can poke into it from any angle, while the lady screams from her safe spot below. At the right moment, the performer lifts the basket off the table completely, showing that it’s really empty, while the lady reappears in another location, just like before.

Electrical Tricks.—Some of the most mysterious of the stage tricks are performed by means of electricity, or, to speak more correctly, of electro-magnetism. In describing these, which are nearly all attributable to the inventive genius of Robert-Houdin, it may be desirable, in the first place, to explain in a few words what electro-magnetism is, and how it operates. Every school-boy is acquainted with the ordinary steel horseshoe magnet, and knows that if the accompanying small iron bar, or “keeper,” is placed within a short481 distance from its ends or “poles,” it will be sharply attracted to them. In the case of the ordinary magnet this attractive force is permanent, but in that of the electro-magnet it may be produced or destroyed at pleasure. The electro-magnet consists of a short piece of soft iron, (either straight, or bent into a horseshoe form), with copper wire (covered with silk or cotton) wound round and round it nearly to the ends. If a current of electricity from a galvanic battery is made to pass through this wire, the iron core becomes powerfully magnetic, the attractive force, however, ceasing as soon as the current is interrupted.

Electrical Hacks.—Some of the most mysterious stage tricks are performed using electricity, or more accurately, electro-magnetism. To describe these, which are mostly attributed to the creative mind of Robert-Houdin, it’s useful to explain briefly what electro-magnetism is and how it works. Every school kid knows about the typical steel horseshoe magnet and understands that if the small iron bar, or “keeper,” is placed close to its ends or “poles,” it will be strongly attracted to them. With a regular magnet, this attractive force is permanent, while with an electro-magnet, it can be turned on or off at will. The electro-magnet consists of a short piece of soft iron (either straight or shaped like a horseshoe) with copper wire (wrapped in silk or cotton) wound around it nearly to the ends. When an electric current from a galvanic battery flows through this wire, the iron core becomes strongly magnetic, but the attractive force stops as soon as the current is cut off.

Fig. 302.
Fig. 303.

Almost any kind of battery may be used to produce the necessary current, but for magical purposes one of the most convenient is the Bichromate Bottle Battery, depicted in Fig. 302. This consists of a plate of zinc and a plate of carbon (or sometimes two plates of carbon) immersed in an exciting fluid, consisting of two ounces and a half of bichromate of potash dissolved in a pint of water, with the addition of one-third of an ounce of sulphuric acid. The bottle is only filled to the top of the spherical portion, and the zinc is so arranged that it can be drawn up into the neck, and so out of the solution, when it is desired to suspend the action of the battery. The wires for conducting the current should be of copper covered with silk or cotton, and one of them must be connected with the zinc plate, and the other with the carbon plate of the battery, which has “binding screws” affixed for this purpose. For the purpose of instantly completing or disconnecting the electric circuit, the wires are affixed to the opposite sides of what is called a connecting stud (see Fig. 303), being a circular disc of wood or porcelain, with a moveable stud or button in the centre. On pressing this stud with the finger, the ends482 of the two wires are brought in contact, and the circuit is completed; but as soon as the pressure is removed, the stud rises by the action of a spring, and the circuit is again broken.

Almost any type of battery can be used to generate the necessary current, but for magical purposes, one of the most convenient options is the Bichromate Bottle Battery, shown in Fig. 302. It consists of a zinc plate and a carbon plate (or sometimes two carbon plates) submerged in an exciting solution made of two and a half ounces of bichromate of potash dissolved in a pint of water, plus one-third of an ounce of sulfuric acid. The bottle is only filled to the top of the spherical part, and the zinc is set up so that it can be pulled up into the neck and out of the solution when you want to stop the battery from working. The wires used to carry the current should be copper covered with silk or cotton, with one connected to the zinc plate and the other to the carbon plate of the battery, which has “binding screws” for this purpose. To quickly complete or disconnect the electric circuit, the wires are attached to opposite sides of what's called a connecting stud (see Fig. 303), a circular disc made of wood or porcelain, with a movable stud or button in the center. Pressing this stud with your finger brings the ends of the two wires together, completing the circuit; once the pressure is released, the stud rises due to a spring mechanism, and the circuit is broken again.

Among the conjuring tricks depending upon the principle of electro-magnetic attraction, the simplest is that of

Among the magic tricks based on the principle of electro-magnetic attraction, the simplest is that of

The Light and Heavy Chest.—This is a small brass-bound box, with the ordinary handle at top. The performer shows that it is empty, and without mechanism or preparation. Having been duly inspected, it is placed upon a small pedestal fixed to the stage, when the performer requests that some gentleman of considerable personal strength will step forward. A volunteer having been found, the magician asks him whether he thinks he can lift the little box before him. He naturally answers that he can, and proves his assertion by lifting it accordingly, which, as the box only weighs a few pounds, it is not very difficult to do. “Wait a bit,” says the professor, “you were able to lift it then, because it was my will and pleasure that you should do so. It now weighs” (say) “six pounds. I have only to breathe on it thus, and it will instantly weigh two tons. Try if you can lift it now.” Again he tries, but the chest is as if glued to the pedestal, and the most violent efforts cannot dislodge it. Once more the performer breathes upon it, and it may be lifted with one finger.

The Light and Heavy Chest.—This is a small brass-bound box with a regular handle on top. The performer demonstrates that it’s empty and requires no special mechanism or preparation. After being thoroughly inspected, it’s placed on a small pedestal fixed to the stage. The performer then asks for a gentleman with considerable strength to step forward. Once a volunteer is found, the magician asks if he thinks he can lift the box in front of him. Naturally, he replies that he can, and proves it by lifting it easily since the box only weighs a few pounds. “Hold on,” says the professor, “you were able to lift it because I allowed you to. Now it weighs” (let’s say) “six pounds. I just need to breathe on it like this, and it will instantly weigh two tons. Try lifting it now.” He tries again, but the chest is like it’s glued to the pedestal, and his strongest efforts can’t move it. Once more, the performer breathes on it, and it can now be lifted with just one finger.

The explanation may be given in half-a-dozen lines. The bottom of the box is an iron plate. The top of the pedestal is also an iron plate, and within it is contained a powerful electro-magnet, the poles being in contact with the plate, and the wires to convey the current passing beneath the stage to the hiding-place of the assistant. The latter, on receiving his cue from the expressions of the performer, presses the connecting stud and completes the circuit, thereby bringing the magnetic force into operation. Upon again receiving an agreed signal from the performer, he ceases to press the stud, the circuit is broken, and the iron ceases to possess any magnetic force. This may be repeated as often as desired.

The explanation can be summed up in a few lines. The bottom of the box is made of iron. The top of the pedestal is also iron, and inside it is a strong electromagnet, with its poles in contact with the plate, and the wires that carry the current running beneath the stage to where the assistant is hidden. When the assistant gets his cue from the performer's signals, he presses the button to complete the circuit, activating the magnetic force. Once he receives another agreed signal from the performer, he stops pressing the button, breaking the circuit, and the iron loses its magnetic properties. This process can be repeated as often as needed.

The above trick is cited by Robert-Houdin in illustration of the great difference which there may be, in point of effect, between two modes of presenting the same illusion. The reader may possibly483 be aware that Robert-Houdin was employed by the French Government, at one period of his career, in a mission to Algeria, with the object of destroying, if possible, the popular belief in the pretended miracles of the Marabouts, whereby these latter had obtained an extraordinary ascendency over the minds of the ignorant Arabs. The plan adopted was to show, first, that a European could perform still greater marvels, and then to explain that these seeming mysteries were mere matters of science and dexterity, and wholly independent of supernatural assistance. The “Light and Heavy Chest” was one of the prominent features of the programme, but if presented under that name it would have produced but very little effect. The fact that the chest became immoveable at command would only have been attributed by the Arabs to some ingenious mechanical arrangement, beyond their comprehension, but exciting only a momentary wonder. With great tact, Robert-Houdin contrived to turn the attention of his audience from the object to the subject of the trick, professing, not to make the chest light or heavy, but to make the person who volunteered weak or strong at his pleasure. Thus presented, the trick had the appearance no longer of a mere achievement of mechanical or scientific skill, but of a manifestation of supernatural power. We will tell the rest of the story as nearly as possible in Robert-Houdin’s own words, as related in the story of his life:—

The trick mentioned above is noted by Robert-Houdin to illustrate the significant difference in effect between two ways of presenting the same illusion. You might know that Robert-Houdin was once hired by the French Government for a mission to Algeria, aimed at dispelling the popular belief in the supposed miracles of the Marabouts, which had given them remarkable control over the minds of the uneducated Arabs. The strategy was to first demonstrate that a European could perform even greater wonders, then explain that these apparent mysteries were just science and skill, completely unrelated to any supernatural help. The “Light and Heavy Chest” was a key part of the show, but if presented under that name, it would have left a minimal impression. The Arabs would likely have attributed the chest's immobility to some clever mechanical setup they couldn't grasp, resulting in only a fleeting sense of amazement. With great skill, Robert-Houdin managed to shift his audience's focus from the object to the subject of the trick, claiming not to make the chest light or heavy, but to make the volunteer strong or weak at will. This way, the trick appeared not just as a feat of mechanical or scientific ability, but as a display of supernatural power. We will continue the story as closely as possible in Robert-Houdin’s own words, as shared in the story of his life:—

“An Arab of middle stature, but well-knit, wiry, and muscular; the very type of an Arab Hercules, came forward, with plenty of self-confidence, and stood by my side.

“An Arab of average height, but well-built, lean, and strong; the perfect example of an Arab Hercules, stepped forward with a lot of self-assurance and stood next to me.

“‘Are you very strong?’ I inquired, eyeing him from head to foot.

“‘Are you really strong?’ I asked, looking him over from head to toe.

“‘Yes,’ he replied, carelessly.

“‘Yeah,’ he replied, casually.

“‘Are you sure that you will always remain so?’

“‘Are you sure you will always stay like this?’”

“‘Perfectly.’

"Absolutely."

“‘You are mistaken; for in one moment I shall take away all your strength, and leave you as weak as a little child.’

“'You're wrong; in just a moment, I will strip away all your strength, leaving you as powerless as a small child.'”

“The Arab smiled scornfully, in token of disbelief.

“The Arab smiled with disdain, showing disbelief.”

“‘Here,’ I said, ‘lift up this chest.’

“‘Here,’ I said, ‘lift up this box.’

“The Arab stooped, lifted the chest, and said disdainfully, ‘Is that all?’

“The Arab bent down, picked up the chest, and said with contempt, ‘Is that it?’”

“‘Wait a bit,’ I replied. Then, with the solemnity appropriate484 to my assumed character, I made a gesture of command, and gravely said—

“‘Hold on a second,’ I said. Then, with the seriousness fitting my role, I made a commanding gesture and said solemnly—

“‘You are weaker than a woman. Try now to lift that box.’

“‘You’re weaker than a woman. Try now to lift that box.’”

“The strong man, perfectly indifferent about my magic spell, again catches hold of the box by the handle, and gives a vigorous pull to lift it; this time, however, the chest resists, and in spite of the most determined efforts, remains absolutely immoveable.

“The strong man, completely uninterested in my magic spell, grabs the box by the handle again and yanks it to lift it. This time, though, the chest holds firm, and despite his most determined efforts, it stays completely unmoving.”

“The Arab wastes in vain over the unlucky chest an amount of force which would have lifted an enormous weight; till at last, exhausted, panting, and burning with shame, he ceases, looks dumfounded, and begins to appreciate the power of the magic art. He has half a mind to give up the attempt; but to give up would be to acknowledge himself conquered, and to admit his weakness; and after having been famed for his muscular strength, to sink to the level of a child. The bare idea makes him furious. Gathering new strength from the encouragement which his friends offer him by word and look, he casts towards them a glance which seems to say, ‘You shall see what the son of the desert can do.’ Once more he bends over the chest, his nervous hands grip the handle, and his legs, planted one on each side of the chest like two columns of bronze, serve as a fulcrum for the mighty effort which he is about to make. It seems almost impossible but that under such a strain the box must fly to pieces. Strange! this Hercules, a moment ago so strong and self-confident, now bends his head; his arms, riveted to the box, are drawn by a violent muscular contraction against his chest; his legs quiver, and he falls on his knees with a cry of agony.

“The Arab struggles futilely against the cursed chest, using enough strength to lift something massive. Finally, worn out, panting, and burning with embarrassment, he stops, stunned, and starts to realize the power of the magic art. He half-considers quitting; but giving up would mean admitting defeat and acknowledging his weakness, and after being known for his strength, sinking down to the level of a child is unthinkable. Just the thought makes him furious. Drawing new strength from the support his friends give him with their words and looks, he shoots them a glance that seems to say, ‘You’ll see what the son of the desert can do.’ He leans over the chest again, his tense hands gripping the handle, and his legs positioned on either side of the chest like two columns of bronze serve as a pivot for the tremendous effort he’s about to exert. It seems almost impossible that under such pressure the box won’t break apart. Strange! This Hercules, a moment ago so strong and confident, now bows his head; his arms, locked onto the box, are pulled against his chest by a violent muscle contraction; his legs tremble, and he collapses to his knees with a cry of pain.”

“An electric shock, produced by an induction coil, had just been communicated, at a signal from me, from behind the scenes to the handle of the chest. Thence the contortions of the unlucky Arab. To prolong his agony would have been inhuman. I gave a second signal, and the electric current was cut off. My athletic friend, released from his terrible bondage, raised his hands above his head. ‘Allah! Allah!’ he cried, shaking with fright, then wrapping himself hastily in the folds of his burnous, as though to hide his disgrace, he rushed through the spectators, and made his way to the door of the hall.”

“An electric shock, triggered by an induction coil, had just been sent, at my signal, from backstage to the handle of the chest. That's when the unfortunate Arab started to convulse. It would have been inhuman to prolong his suffering. I gave a second signal, and the electric current was cut off. My athletic friend, freed from his dreadful predicament, raised his hands above his head. 'Allah! Allah!' he shouted, trembling with fear, then quickly wrapping himself in the folds of his burnous, as if to hide his shame, he rushed through the crowd and made his way to the exit of the hall.”

To describe completely the “induction coil,” above referred to,485 would be beyond the scope of the present treatise. It may, however, be summarily described as consisting of a coil of insulated copper wire, wound round a small bundle of straight iron wires, say five or six inches in length, and an inch in diameter. This is called the “primary” coil. Round this is again wound a quantity of much finer wire, also insulated. This constitutes the “secondary” coil. The ends of each coil are kept free. If a current of electricity be made to circulate through the wire of the primary coil, an independent current of great intensity is found to be thereby produced, by a mysterious process called induction, in the secondary coil. This current is strongest at the moment of first completing the circuit in the primary wire, and if a person is grasping the ends of the secondary wire, or any conducting substance in connection with it, at the moment when the circuit is completed, he will receive a very severe shock. A contrivance is attached to the coil, whereby the circuit is made and broken alternately with great rapidity, thereby producing a continuous shock, of such power that the victim loses for the time being the faculty of relaxing his muscles, and is compelled, after the manner of the unfortunate Arab, to grip, tighter and tighter, the cause of his pain, until released by the final severing of the circuit. Any reader who desires a more complete acquaintance with the induction coil, should purchase a little shilling manual, entitled, “Intensity Coils, How Made and How Used,” by “Dyer” (Suter, Alexander, and Co., Cheapside), where he will find an excellent account of this interesting subject.

To fully explain the "induction coil" mentioned earlier,485 would go beyond the limits of this current discussion. However, it can be briefly described as a coil of insulated copper wire wrapped around a small bundle of straight iron wires, about five or six inches long and an inch in diameter. This is known as the “primary” coil. Wrapped around this is another layer of much finer, also insulated wire, which makes up the “secondary” coil. The ends of each coil are left free. When an electric current flows through the wire of the primary coil, a strong independent current is generated in the secondary coil through a mysterious process known as induction. This current is strongest right when the circuit in the primary wire is first completed, and if someone is holding the ends of the secondary wire or any connected conducting material at that moment, they will receive a very intense shock. A device is attached to the coil that rapidly alternates the circuit on and off, producing a continuous shock that is so powerful that the person cannot relax their muscles and is forced, like the unfortunate Arab, to grip tighter and tighter onto the source of their pain until the circuit is finally broken. Any reader who wants to learn more about the induction coil should get a small manual called "Intensity Coils, How Made and How Used," by "Dyer" (Suter, Alexander, and Co., Cheapside), where they can find a great explanation of this fascinating topic.

Fig. 304.
Fig. 305.

Spirit-Rapping.—This deception is frequently performed by the aid of electro-magnetism, although the raps may be, and in most instances are, produced by much simpler methods. We will suppose that a table is to be the instrument of the raps. The top being removed, a hollow is made in the “frame” which supports it, and in the cavity thus made is fixed an electro-magnet, of the fashion shown in Figs. 304, 305. Upon one side of the horseshoe, at the centre of the curve, is screwed a brass spring a, to the opposite end of which is attached the keeper b. The effect of the spring is to hold the keeper about a quarter of an inch away from the poles of the magnet, save when a current of electricity is made to pass through the wire, when the horseshoe486 becoming magnetic, the keeper, in spite of the resistance of the spring, is brought down sharply into contact with the poles, and so remains until the circuit is again severed, when it flies back again to its former position. The little metal knob or hammer c, which is to produce the raps, is screwed to the under side of the keeper, and points between the two arms or poles of the magnet. If, therefore, the magnet be fastened to a piece of wood, or other hard surface, and an electric current be sent through the wire, the keeper is instantly drawn down to the poles of the magnet, and the hammer, moving with it, strikes the wood between the poles, and produces the rap. As soon as the circuit is broken, the keeper and hammer are raised by the spring, in readiness for another rap; and each time that connection with the battery is made, a rap is produced. The wires from the concealed magnet are made to pass down the leg of the table, and beneath the floor or carpet to the hiding-place of the assistant, who can thus summon spirits “from the vasty deep” or elsewhere, at his pleasure.

Spirit Communication.—This trick is often done using electromagnetism, although the raps can be, and usually are, made through much simpler means. Let's say a table is used for the raps. With the top removed, a hollow space is created in the "frame" that supports it, where an electromagnet, like the one shown in Figs. 304, 305, is installed. A brass spring a is screwed onto one side of the horseshoe, at the center of the curve, with the keeper b attached to its opposite end. The spring holds the keeper about a quarter of an inch away from the magnet's poles, except when an electric current flows through the wire. Then, the horseshoe becomes magnetic, and the keeper is quickly pulled down to contact the poles, staying there until the current is turned off, at which point it snaps back to its original position. The small metal knob or hammer c, responsible for creating the raps, is attached to the underside of the keeper and positioned between the two arms or poles of the magnet. Thus, if the magnet is secured to a piece of wood or a hard surface and an electric current passes through the wire, the keeper is instantly drawn to the magnet's poles, causing the hammer to strike the wood and create a rap. Once the circuit is interrupted, the spring raises the keeper and hammer, preparing for the next rap; connecting to the battery again will produce another rap. The wires from the hidden magnet run down the leg of the table, beneath the floor or carpet, to the assistant's hiding spot, enabling them to summon spirits "from the vasty deep" or anywhere else at will.

It will be found a very convenient arrangement to have the magnet enclosed in a little mahogany box, as shown in the diagrams, in which condition it can readily be fixed in any required position.

It’s really convenient to have the magnet enclosed in a small mahogany box, as shown in the diagrams, making it easy to secure it in any position you need.

The Magic Bell.—Precisely the same in principle, though differing somewhat in detail, is the magic bell. The bell, which is487 of glass, and of the form shown in Fig. 306, is hung up above the stage by two silk or woollen cords, and thus apparently placed wholly out of the reach of human influence. Nevertheless, at the command of the magician, it becomes endowed with seeming vitality. The hammer strikes any number of times at command, answers questions (with three raps for “yes,” and one for “no,” after the approved spiritualistic manner), indicates chosen cards, and generally displays a remarkable amount of intelligence.

The Enchanted Bell.—It works on the same principle, though with some different details, as the magic bell. The bell, which is487 made of glass and shaped like Fig. 306, is suspended above the stage by two silk or wool cords, making it seem completely out of reach of any human influence. However, at the magician's command, it appears to come to life. The hammer strikes as many times as ordered, answers questions (with three taps for “yes” and one for “no,” following the usual spiritualistic practice), indicates chosen cards, and generally shows a surprising level of intelligence.

Fig. 306.

The reader who has followed our description of the spirit-rapping magnet will hardly require an explanation of the magic bell. The brass cap, from which the hammer projects, contains a small electro-magnet, the wire which carries the hammer being fixed to the keeper, and bringing the hammer down smartly on the glass whenever the electric circuit is made complete.

The reader who has followed our description of the spirit-rapping magnet will hardly need an explanation of the magic bell. The brass cap, from which the hammer extends, has a small electromagnet inside. The wire that connects to the hammer is attached to the keeper, allowing the hammer to strike the glass sharply whenever the electric circuit is completed.

“But,” says the sagacious reader, “how is the circuit made complete? In the former case there were hidden wires, passing through the legs of the table, to convey the electric current, but in this instance the bell is suspended in mid-air by a couple of ordinary cords. How can the electric fluid therefore be conveyed to the bell?” The answer lies in the fact that the cords are not quite ordinary cords. In appearance they are two pieces of common cord, with a brass hook at each end, for the purpose of first attaching them to corresponding hooks in the ceiling, and, secondly, attaching the bell to their opposite ends. But on a closer examination it will be found that a fine copper wire extends from hook to hook through the centre of the cord, making it a perfect conductor, while yet not diminishing in the least its perfect flexibility. The hooks in the ceiling communicate with hidden wires, and these with the electric battery behind the scenes.

“But,” says the wise reader, “how is the circuit completed? In the previous case, there were hidden wires running through the table legs to carry the electric current, but in this case, the bell is hanging in mid-air by a couple of regular cords. How can the electric current then be sent to the bell?” The answer is that these cords are not just regular cords. They look like two ordinary pieces of string, with a brass hook at each end, meant for first attaching them to hooks in the ceiling, and second, for attaching the bell to their opposite ends. But on closer inspection, you'll find that a fine copper wire runs from hook to hook through the center of the cord, making it an ideal conductor without compromising its flexibility. The ceiling hooks connect to hidden wires, which in turn connect to the electric battery behind the scenes.

The Crystal Cash-Box.—This is a mahogany box with glass488 top and bottom, the wooden portion of it being lined with velvet. (See Fig. 307.) In dimensions it is about eight inches long, by six wide, and three and a half deep, and it has a brass ring at either end.

The Crystal Cash Box.—This is a mahogany box with glass488 top and bottom, lined with velvet on the inside. (See Fig. 307.) It measures about eight inches long, six inches wide, and three and a half inches deep, with a brass ring at each end.

Fig. 307.

The performer commences by borrowing (say) eight half-crowns, the owner of each being requested to mark it for the purpose of identification. With these the performer exhibits any trick whose leading feature is the passage of the coin from some one place to another. The trick having been performed, and the money identified, the operator, still retaining it, returns to the stage, and placing the coins upon the table, addresses the audience to the following effect: “Ladies and gentlemen, I have given you a slight specimen of the certainty and speed with which I can make money travel. Who would go to the trouble and expense of Post-office orders when by simply taking the money in his hand, and saying, ‘Pass,’ he might make it fly direct into the pocket of his correspondent? But I will give you another and a still more surprising illustration.” (Here the assistant brings in the crystal cash-box.) “Here is a wooden box, closed on all sides, but with glass top and bottom, so that you may see for yourselves that there is no mechanism or preparation about it. Now I propose to pass these eight half-crowns, the identical half-crowns marked by yourselves, into this closed box. Where shall I place the box, so as to be at a distance from me, and at the same time in full view of all present? Perhaps the best thing I can do with it will be to fasten it to these two silk cords hanging from the ceiling. I will set the box swinging” (he does so), “so that you can all see that it is empty. Now I will take the money, and stand in any part of the room you like.” (He walks to the chosen spot.) “Will some one oblige me by counting three in a distinct voice.” One of the spectators does so, and the performer at the last word makes the motion of throwing the money towards the489 cash-box, in which it is instantly seen and heard to fall, his hand at the same moment appearing empty. The cash-box is taken down, and the money returned to the owners, who identify it as that which they had marked.

The performer starts by borrowing eight half-crowns, asking each owner to mark theirs for identification. With these coins, the performer shows a trick that revolves around moving the coin from one spot to another. After performing the trick and confirming the money's identity, the performer, still holding the coins, returns to the stage, places them on the table, and addresses the audience: “Ladies and gentlemen, I’ve given you a little demonstration of how quickly and surely I can make money travel. Who wants to deal with the hassle and cost of postal orders when you can simply take the money in your hand and say, ‘Pass,’ to make it fly straight into the pocket of your recipient? But I’ll give you another even more astonishing example.” (Here the assistant brings out the crystal cash box.) “Here’s a wooden box, fully closed on all sides but with glass on the top and bottom, so you can see there’s no mechanism or anything hiding inside. Now, I’m going to pass these eight half-crowns, the same ones you marked, into this closed box. Where should I place the box so it’s out of reach but still visible to everyone here? I think the best option is to attach it to these two silk cords hanging from the ceiling. I’ll make it swing” (he does so), “so you can all see it’s empty. Now I’ll take the money and stand anywhere in the room you want.” (He walks to the chosen spot.) “Can someone please count to three in a clear voice?” One of the spectators does, and at the last count, the performer pretends to throw the money towards the cash box, and it’s immediately seen and heard falling inside, with his hand appearing empty at the same time. The cash box is taken down, and the money is returned to the owners, who confirm it’s the same that they marked.

As the reader will doubtless have anticipated, the coins are already in the cash-box when the latter is hung to the cords. They are concealed by a moveable flap lying close against one of the wooden sides, in which position it is maintained by a spring, until an electric current is despatched along the cords. This brings into action an electro-magnet, hidden in the thickness of the box, thereby causing the flap to be momentarily lifted, and the coins to escape into the interior of the box.

As the reader probably guessed, the coins are already in the cash box when it's hung from the cords. They're kept hidden by a movable flap pressed against one of the wooden sides, held in place by a spring, until an electric current travels through the cords. This activates an electromagnet hidden within the box, which causes the flap to briefly lift and the coins to fall into the inside of the box.

When the performer, having exhibited the preliminary trick with the borrowed coins, places them apparently upon the table, he in reality exchanges them, and places the substitutes on the “money-trap” described at page 446, leaving the genuine coins within reach of his assistant, who forthwith carries them off behind the scenes, and places them in readiness under the flap of the cash-box. The performer having attached the box to the cords, and set it in motion, apparently picks up the heap of coins, which really sink into the table.O When the word “Three” is spoken, he opens the right hand, which is seen empty, and the assistant behind the scenes, taking the same word as a signal, presses the connecting stud, and completes the circuit. The flap is momentarily lifted, and the borrowed coins are heard and seen to fall within the box.

When the performer finishes the initial trick with the borrowed coins and seems to put them down on the table, he actually swaps them out and places the fakes on the “money-trap” mentioned on page 446. Meanwhile, the real coins are within reach of his assistant, who quickly takes them offstage and gets them ready under the flap of the cash-box. After attaching the box to the cords and setting it in motion, the performer appears to lift the pile of coins, which actually sink into the table.O When he says the word “Three,” he opens his right hand, which looks empty. At the same time, the assistant backstage uses that word as a signal, presses the connecting button, and completes the circuit. The flap briefly lifts, and the borrowed coins can be heard and seen falling into the box.

O If his table is not provided with the money-trap, the performer may really pick up the coins with his left hand, and thence, by the tourniquet, apparently take them in the right, keeping the right hand closed as if containing them. While the attention of the spectators is thus drawn to the right hand, the left may fall carelessly to the side, and deposit the coins in the pochette.

O If his table doesn't have the money-trap, the performer can actually pick up the coins with his left hand and then, through the tourniquet, seemingly transfer them to his right hand, keeping the right hand closed as if holding them. While the audience is focused on the right hand, the left can casually drop down to the side and stash the coins in the pochette.

Fig. 308.

There is another box (the invention of Robert-Houdin) which goes by the same name, and with still better title, inasmuch as not only the top and bottom, but the sides and ends, are of glass, held together by a light metal framework. In appearance it is as shown in Fig. 308, and, being transparent throughout, it appears physically impossible that any object should be concealed in it; and yet, when490 the box is suspended, and set swinging, the operator has only to take the (supposed) borrowed coins in his hand, and to pronounce the mystic “Pass,” when the eight half-crowns are seen and heard to fall into the box, and may be taken from thence by the owners themselves, without even this near inspection of the apparatus revealing the secret of their appearance.

There’s another box (the invention of Robert-Houdin) that has the same name, and it’s even more fitting because not only the top and bottom, but the sides and ends are made of glass, held together by a lightweight metal frame. It looks like what is shown in Fig. 308, and since it’s completely transparent, it seems physically impossible for anything to be hidden inside; yet, when the box is suspended and set swinging, the operator just has to take the (supposedly) borrowed coins in his hand and say the magic “Pass,” and the eight half-crowns can be seen and heard falling into the box, which can then be taken out by the owners themselves, without even a close inspection of the device revealing how they got there.

As in the trick we have just described, electricity is the motive agent; but in this instance it operates, not by its magnetic influence, but by another of its mysterious properties. If a tolerably powerful current be made to pass at some point in its circuit through a short length (say half an inch) of fine platinum wire, platinum being a bad conductor, the wire will, at the moment of completing the circuit, be heated to a white heat, or, if the current be very powerful, will even be fused altogether. A very few words will show how this simple scientific fact is made available to produce the desired result.

As with the trick we just talked about, electricity is the driving force; but here it works not through its magnetic effect, but through another one of its mysterious properties. When a reasonably strong current is sent through a short piece (about half an inch) of fine platinum wire—platinum being a poor conductor—the wire will heat up to a white-hot temperature at the moment the circuit is completed, or if the current is really strong, it might even melt completely. A few simple explanations will reveal how this straightforward scientific fact is used to achieve the desired outcome.

Fig. 309.
Fig. 310.

The box measures about ten inches in length, by five in breadth and five in depth, so that its back, front, top, and bottom are of exactly the same size. On the top, which slides out, in order to give access to the interior, is an ornamental design, measuring about four inches by three. This renders this particular portion of the top or lid opaque, and it is beneath this portion that the half-crowns are placed. Slips of glass are cemented to the under side of the lid (see Fig. 309), so as to inclose a space just large enough to allow eight half-crowns to be placed, in two layers491 of four each, within it. The slips of glass serve to keep the coins in position laterally. Vertically, they are supported as follows:—The front of the box (i.e., the side which, when the box is suspended, is nearest to the spectators) is made double. The outer portion is a fixture, but the inner is attached by hinges a a to the upper edge of the box, and may therefore be folded at pleasure against the top, though when released it falls back to its normal position against the front, in which position it is secured by a spring catch until again raised. It is upon this moveable side, thus folded up against the top, that the eight half-crowns are supported. The opposite edge of the top of the box is arranged as follows: b b is a metal tube, with an opening of about half-an-inch in length between d d; c c are two metal hooks or rings by which the apparatus is suspended, and through which the current passes. Each of these communicates with a piece of insulated copper wire, extending from c to d. The space between d d is filled up by a round plug or pencil of wood (see enlarged view in Fig. 310), along which lies a small piece of very fine platinum wire e e, connecting the ends of the two copper wires. The moveable glass flap is held up against the top by means of a little piece of black cotton f, which, passing through a minute hole in the outer edge of the flap, is made to pass round the wooden plug, and thus to cross the platinum wire at right angles, and in immediate contact with it. The practical application of the scientific principle to which we have alluded will now be obvious. At the moment of completing the circuit, the platinum, becoming red-hot, instantly severs the cotton, when down falls the flap, not altering in the least the general appearance of the box, but allowing the half-crowns to fall loose into its interior.

The box is about ten inches long, five inches wide, and five inches deep, so its back, front, top, and bottom are all exactly the same size. On the top, which slides out to provide access to the inside, there's a decorative design measuring around four inches by three. This makes that part of the lid opaque, and it's underneath this area that the half-crowns are placed. Slips of glass are glued to the underside of the lid (see Fig. 309), so that they create a space just big enough for eight half-crowns to fit in, two layers of four each. The slips of glass hold the coins in place sideways. Vertically, they're supported like this: the front of the box (i.e., the side that’s closest to the audience when the box is hanging) is double-layered. The outer part is fixed, while the inner part is attached by hinges a a to the upper edge of the box and can be folded up against the top at will, though when released, it falls back into its normal position against the front, where it is held by a spring catch until lifted again. It's on this movable side, folded up against the top, that the eight half-crowns are held. The opposite edge of the top of the box is designed like this: b b is a metal tube, with an opening of about half an inch long between d d; c c are two metal hooks or rings that suspend the apparatus and allow the current to flow through. Each of these connects to a piece of insulated copper wire running from c to d. The gap between d d is filled by a round plug or pencil of wood (see enlarged view in Fig. 310), on top of which there’s a small piece of very fine platinum wire e e that connects the ends of the two copper wires. The movable glass flap is held up against the top using a small piece of black cotton f, which goes through a tiny hole in the outer edge of the flap, wraps around the wooden plug, and crosses the platinum wire at right angles, touching it directly. The practical application of the scientific principle we referenced will now be clear. When the circuit is completed, the platinum gets red-hot and quickly cuts through the cotton, causing the flap to drop, without changing the overall appearance of the box, and allowing the half-crowns to fall freely inside.

In order to prepare the apparatus for use, it is necessary first to remove the sliding lid, to place the moveable flap in position, and to fasten it with cotton as already described. The lid should then be turned upside down, and the half-crowns placed in position, after which the box also is turned upside down, and the lid allowed to slide gently into its place. The half-crowns are now secure, and the492 box may be brought forward and set swinging, without any danger of their making a premature appearance.

To get the device ready for use, start by taking off the sliding lid, positioning the movable flap, and securing it with cotton as previously explained. Then, flip the lid upside down and place the half-crowns in position. After that, turn the box upside down and let the lid slide gently into place. The half-crowns are now secure, and the 492 box can be brought forward and set swinging without any risk of them appearing too soon.

In some boxes the double flap is omitted, the front being single, but moveable, and working as already explained. In this case the box, when first brought forward, has the glass of the side towards the audience missing, but at a little distance its absence cannot be detected.

In some boxes, the double flap is removed, with the front being a single, but movable piece, functioning as previously described. In this case, when the box is first presented, the side glass facing the audience is missing, but from a distance, its absence isn't noticeable.

The Magic Drum.—This is in appearance an ordinary side-drum, but being hung up by cords from the ceiling, it will forthwith, without any visible drumsticks, give either a single rap or a roll, or keep time to any piece of music. It will further answer questions and tell fortunes, indicate chosen cards, etc., after the manner of the magic bell.

The Enchanted Drum.—At first glance, this looks like a regular side-drum, but when it’s suspended by cords from the ceiling, it can instantly play a single beat or a roll without any visible drumsticks, or keep time with any music. It can also answer questions and tell fortunes, and even indicate selected cards, similar to how the magic bell works.

These mysterious effects are produced by two hammers or drumsticks, fixed against one end of the drum on the inside. Each of these is attached to the keeper of an electro-magnet, but there is a difference in the mode of their working. One works after the manner of the bell, giving a single tap whenever contact is made, but thenceforward remaining silent until the circuit is again broken and again completed. In other words, each pressure of the connecting stud produces one rap, and no more. The second hammer is differently arranged. By means of what is called a “contact-breaker,” the movement of the keeper, when attracted by the magnet, of itself breaks the circuit. The circuit being broken, the iron is no longer magnetic, and the keeper flies back to its old position, thereby once more completing the circuit. As long as the pressure on the stud continues, therefore, the circuit is alternately made and broken in rapid succession, involving a corresponding movement of the keeper and hammer, and producing a “roll” of the drum. The use of the two hammers involves the necessity of two electrical circuits and two connecting studs, and of three cords to suspend the drum (one being common to both circuits). With a little practice in the management of the two studs, the single rapper may be made to beat time to a tune, while the other stud brings in the roll at appropriate intervals.

These mysterious effects are created by two hammers or drumsticks, fixed at one end of the drum on the inside. Each of these is connected to an electro-magnet's keeper, but they function differently. One operates like a bell, producing a single tap whenever contact is made, and then staying silent until the circuit is broken and completed again. In other words, each press of the connecting stud results in one tap, and nothing more. The second hammer is set up differently. Through a mechanism called a “contact-breaker,” the movement of the keeper, when attracted by the magnet, breaks the circuit by itself. Once the circuit is broken, the iron loses its magnetism, and the keeper snaps back to its original position, thus completing the circuit again. As long as pressure on the stud is maintained, the circuit is rapidly made and broken, leading to corresponding movements of the keeper and hammer, which creates a “roll” of the drum. Using both hammers requires two electrical circuits and two connecting studs, as well as three cords to suspend the drum (one shared between both circuits). With a bit of practice on managing the two studs, the single tap can be timed to a tune, while the other stud introduces the roll at the right moments.

There are some drums (of an inferior character) made with one hammer only; such hammer being arranged for the roll. Where it is desired to give a single rap, this may be effected by pressing and493 instantly releasing the stud with a light, quick touch; but some little dexterity is required.

There are some inferior drums made with just one hammer; this hammer is set up for the roll. If you want to give a single hit, you can do this by pressing and493 quickly releasing the stud with a light, fast touch, but it does require some skill.

In the case of all these appliances for magically answering questions, it is necessary that the assistant who has the control of the apparatus should be in such a position as to distinctly hear the questions asked. In fortune-telling matters the answer may generally be left to his own discretion; but for indicating what card is chosen, etc., it is necessary either that an agreed card be forced, or that a carefully arranged code of verbal signals should be employed, whereby the form of the question may itself indicate the proper answer.P Considerable fun may be caused by the magician selecting an evidently “engaged” couple, and after asking how many months it will be before they are married, etc., inquiring, in a stage whisper, how many children they are destined to be blest with. The drum raps steadily up to (say) five, and this is accepted as the answer, when, after a moment’s pause, two more raps are heard in quick succession. This alarming omen is received with general laughter, amid which the drum gives another rap, and then another, continuing until the performer, scandalized at its behaviour, unhooks it from the cords, and carries it, still rapping, off the stage. This last effect is wholly independent of electricity, being produced by the performer tapping with his fingers that end of the drum which for the time being is farthest from the audience.

In the case of all these devices for magically answering questions, it's essential that the assistant controlling the equipment can clearly hear the questions being asked. When it comes to fortune-telling, the assistant can usually decide the answer themselves; however, for indicating which card is chosen, it's necessary either to force an agreed-upon card or use a carefully arranged code of verbal signals where the form of the question itself suggests the right answer. P There can be a lot of fun when the magician picks a clearly “engaged” couple and, after asking how many months it will be before they get married, whispers in a theatrical voice about how many kids they are going to have. The drum taps steadily up to (let's say) five, and this is taken as the answer, when, after a brief pause, two more quick taps are heard. This alarming prediction prompts laughter from the audience, during which the drum taps again, and keeps tapping until the performer, shocked by its behavior, detaches it from the cords and takes it offstage, still tapping. This last effect doesn't rely on electricity; it's created by the performer tapping the end of the drum that is farthest from the audience.

P This is the principle of the well-known “second sight” trick, a detailed explanation of which we are compelled from considerations of space to omit, the system, as perfected by Robert-Houdin and others, being so elaborate, that an independent treatise would be needed to do it justice. An admirable account of the system, as applied to the French language, will be found in a work by F. A. Gandon, “La seconde vue dévoilée,” published in Paris in 1849.

P This is the concept behind the famous “second sight” trick, a detailed explanation of which we have to skip due to space limitations. The system, refined by Robert-Houdin and others, is so intricate that it would require a separate book to fully explain it. An excellent description of the system, as it applies to the French language, can be found in a book by F. A. Gandon, “La seconde vue dévoilée,” published in Paris in 1849.

There are some few other tricks performed by the aid of electricity, but any one who understands the principle of those above described may make a very shrewd guess at the working of the remainder. All tricks of this class, though ingenious and effective, are open to one or two serious objections. In the first place, the apparatus is very costly, and, secondly, they are unpleasantly liable, from the nicety of their mechanism and the absolute necessity of perfect electrical connection in all their parts, to hang fire at the critical494 moment, and leave the operator in a very embarrassing position. Imagine the feelings of a performer who, having just introduced his wonderful drum, which is to display unheard-of oracular powers, finds that the instrument remains as mute as the celebrated harp in Tara’s halls, and refuses to bear out, in the smallest degree, his grandiloquent assertions. Yet this unpleasant result may occur at any time from the simple breaking of a wire, or some even slighter cause. This, it appears to us, is a serious drawback to electrical tricks, though where they are exhibited at their best no illusions are more beautiful, or have more of genuine magic about them.

There are a few other tricks that use electricity, but anyone who understands the principles of the ones mentioned above can make a pretty good guess about how the others work. All tricks of this kind, while clever and effective, have one or two significant downsides. First, the equipment is very expensive, and second, due to the complexity of their mechanisms and the need for perfect electrical connections in all parts, they can fail at critical moments, putting the performer in a very awkward situation. Imagine how a performer feels when, after introducing their amazing drum that's supposed to have incredible powers, they discover that the instrument is as silent as the famous harp in Tara's halls and doesn’t support their grand claims at all. This frustrating situation can happen at any moment due to something as simple as a broken wire or even a minor issue. This, it seems to us, is a serious drawback to electrical tricks, though when they are performed at their best, there are no illusions more stunning or with such real magic.

Fig. 311.

We should mention, before quitting the subject of these tricks, that in order to avoid the trouble and expense of fixing the necessary conducting wires in a building not specially appropriated to magical performances, an upright brass rod (which may be detached at pleasure) is sometimes fitted on each side of the performer’s table (see Fig. 311), and the apparatus in use (drum, bell, cash-box, etc.) is suspended by appropriate cords between these rods. The conducting wires are connected within the table with the lower ends of the brass uprights, and thence pass down its hinder legs to the battery behind the scenes. There are many considerations of convenience in favour of this arrangement, but the tricks performed are less effective than where495 the apparatus is hung fairly from the ceiling, and apparently out of all possible reach of mechanical influence.

We should note, before finishing the topic of these tricks, that to avoid the hassle and cost of installing the necessary wiring in a building not specifically designed for magic shows, an upright brass rod (which can be easily removed) is sometimes placed on each side of the performer’s table (see Fig. 311). The equipment in use (drum, bell, cash-box, etc.) is then suspended by suitable cords between these rods. The wiring is connected inside the table to the lower ends of the brass rods, and from there, it runs down the back legs to the battery behind the scenes. There are many practical reasons for this setup, but the tricks performed are less impressive than those where495 the equipment is hung directly from the ceiling, seemingly out of any mechanical influence.

The Aërial Suspension.—This is a very old trick, performed originally by the Indian jugglers, who kept the modus operandi a profound secret. The ingenuity, however, of Robert-Houdin penetrated the mystery, and in 1849 made it a special feature of his séances fantastiques. At that time the public mind was much interested in the anæsthetic qualities of ether, which had then recently been discovered. Robert-Houdin manipulated this fact into a valuable advertisement. He gave out that he had discovered in the popular anæsthetic a still more marvellous property, viz., that when inhaled under certain conditions, it neutralized the attraction of gravitation in the person inhaling it, who became, for the time being, light as air. In proof of this, he brought forward his youngest son, then a child of ten or thereabouts, and after having made him smell at a small phial, really empty, but supposed to contain ether, caused him to recline in mid-air, with no other support than that afforded by, to all appearance, an ordinary walking-stick, placed in a vertical position under his right elbow. It is characteristic of Robert-Houdin’s minute attention to the mise en scène of a trick, that while his son sniffed at the empty bottle, his assistant, behind the scenes, poured genuine ether upon a hot shovel, so that the fumes, reaching the nostrils of the audience, might prove, indirectly but convincingly, that ether was really employed. After the retirement of Robert-Houdin from the stage, the trick fell comparatively out of notice, till it was revived in a new form by the Fakir of Oolu (Professor Sylvester) in England, and contemporaneously by De Vere on the Continent. A full-grown young lady was in this case the subject of the illusion, and was made, while still suspended in air, to assume various costumes and characters. The illusion, in this new form, took the fancy of the public, and brought forth a host of imitators; but few have presented it with the same completeness as the two performers named. For a time it produced quite a marked sensation, equal crowds thronging to see Sylvester in London, and De Vere in Paris, St. Petersburg, Brussels, Pesth, Dresden, Strasburg, and other continental cities. Recent mechanical improvements, to which the last-named Professor has materially contributed,496 have greatly heightened the effect of the trick—the lady being made to rise spontaneously from the perpendicular to the horizontal position, and to continue to float in the air after her last ostensible support has been removed.

The Aerial Suspension.—This is a very old trick, originally performed by Indian jugglers, who kept the modus operandi a closely guarded secret. However, Robert-Houdin figured out the mystery and made it a highlight of his séances fantastiques in 1849. At that time, people were really interested in the anesthetic properties of ether, which had just been discovered. Robert-Houdin cleverly used this fact as a marketing tool. He claimed that he had found an even more amazing property of the popular anesthetic: when inhaled under certain conditions, it could cancel out the pull of gravity for the person inhaling it, making them as light as air, temporarily. To prove this, he showcased his youngest son, a child of about ten years old, and had him sniff from a small vial, which was actually empty but was said to contain ether. He then made his son lie in mid-air, supported only by what appeared to be an ordinary walking stick placed vertically under his right elbow. Robert-Houdin's meticulous attention to the mise en scène of the trick was evident as, while his son inhaled from the empty bottle, his assistant backstage poured real ether onto a hot shovel, so that the fumes reached the audience's noses, indirectly proving that ether was indeed used. After Robert-Houdin left the stage, the trick faded somewhat until it was revived in a new form by the Fakir of Oolu (Professor Sylvester) in England and simultaneously by De Vere on the Continent. This time, a full-grown young lady was the subject of the illusion, and while still suspended in air, she changed into various costumes and characters. This new version of the illusion captured the public’s imagination and led to many imitators, although few presented it with the same level of skill as Sylvester and De Vere. For a while, it created quite a sensation, drawing large crowds to see Sylvester in London and De Vere in Paris, St. Petersburg, Brussels, Pesth, Dresden, Strasburg, and other cities across Europe. Recent mechanical advancements, significantly contributed to by the last-named Professor,496 have greatly enhanced the trick's effect—the lady is now made to rise smoothly from a vertical to a horizontal position and continues to float in the air even after her last apparent support has been removed.

Fig. 312.

Apart from these special mysteries, which we are not at liberty to reveal, the trick is as follows:—The performer brings forward the girl or boy who is to be the subject of the illusion, and who is dressed497 in some fancy costume. A low bench or table, say five feet in length by two in width, and on legs about six inches in height, is brought forward, and shown to be wholly disconnected from the floor or stage. On this is placed a small stool, on which the subject of the experiment (whom, in the present instance, we will suppose to be a young lady) mounts. She extends her arms, and under each is placed a stout rod or pole of appropriate length. (See Fig. 312.) The performer498 makes pretended mesmeric passes over her, and in a minute or two her head is seen to droop, and after a few more passes her eyes close, and she is, to all external appearance, in a mesmeric sleep. The operator now takes the stool from under her feet, when she hangs suspended between the two rods. Again a few more passes, and the operator removes the rod that supports the left arm, and gently mesmerises499 the arm down to the side. Still the girl hangs motionless, with no other support than the single upright rod on which her right arm rests. (See Fig. 313.) The operator now drapes her in various costumes, still keeping up from time to time the supposed mesmeric passes. Bending her right arm so as to support her head, he next lifts her gently to an angle of 45° to the upright rod (as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 313), and finally raises her to a horizontal position, as in Fig. 314.

Apart from these special mysteries, which we can’t disclose, the trick is as follows: The performer brings out the girl or boy who will be the subject of the illusion, dressed in a fancy costume. A low bench or table, about five feet long and two feet wide, and standing around six inches high, is brought forward and shown to be completely disconnected from the floor or stage. A small stool is placed on this, where the subject of the experiment (let's say it's a young lady) gets on. She extends her arms, and a sturdy rod or pole of appropriate length is placed under each one. (See Fig. 312.) The performer makes fake mesmeric passes over her, and after a minute or two, her head starts to droop. After a few more passes, her eyes close, and she appears to be in a mesmeric sleep. The operator then takes the stool from under her feet, leaving her hanging suspended between the two rods. After a few more passes, the operator removes the rod supporting her left arm and gently mesmerizes her arm down to her side. Still, the girl remains motionless, with no support except for the single upright rod under her right arm. (See Fig. 313.) The operator then drapes her in various costumes while occasionally continuing the supposed mesmeric passes. Bending her right arm to support her head, he then gently lifts her to an angle of 45° to the upright rod (as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 313), and finally raises her to a horizontal position, as in Fig. 314.

Fig. 313.
Fig. 314.
Fig. 315.
Fig. 316.

An inspection of the diagrams will already have furnished the clue to the mystery. Of the two upright rods, one (that placed under the left arm) is wholly without preparation, and may be freely handed for examination. The other, A, is either of iron throughout (this was the case with the pretended walking-stick used by Robert-Houdin) or of well-seasoned wood with an iron core, and capable of bearing a very heavy weight. The lower end of this sinks into a socket in the low board or table already mentioned, and thus becomes, for the time being, a fixture. In the upper end is hollowed out a small space, about an inch in depth, for a purpose which will presently appear. The subject of the experiment wears, underneath her page’s costume, a sort of iron corset, or framework, similar to that shown in Figs. 313 and 314, and more in detail in Fig. 315. An iron girdle, a a, passes nearly round the waist, the circle being completed by a leather strap. At right angles to this, on the right side, is fixed an iron upright, b b, extending from just below the armpit nearly to the knee, but with a joint c (working backwards and forwards only) at the hip, a strap d, round the leg, keeping it in position, so as to allow500 of bending the thigh. From the back of the iron girdle, in the centre, proceeds a crutch e, also of iron, passing between the legs, and connected by a strap to the front of the girdle. A fourth strap f, connected with the girdle in front and rear, passes over the left shoulder, and prevents any risk of the apparatus slipping downwards. To the upper part of the upright, b b, immediately below the armpit, is riveted a short flat piece of iron, g, working freely upon it. The end of g, which forms the joint shown enlarged in Fig. 316, is welded into a semicircular ratchet, with three teeth corresponding with a check h, lying parallel with b b, and which, in its normal position, is pressed up close into the teeth of the ratchet by a spring, but may be withdrawn by a downward pressure on the hook i. The opposite end of g has projecting from its under side, at right angles, an iron plug j, which just fits into the cavity before mentioned in the top of the rod A. There is an opening in the under part of the sleeve, to give passage to this plug, which, when inserted in the corresponding cavity of A, makes g, relatively to it, a fixture. The remainder of the iron framework (and with it the lady) remains moveable, to the extent that, by means of the joint at g, it can be made to describe an arc of 90° to the upright rod.

An inspection of the diagrams will have already provided the clue to the mystery. Of the two upright rods, one (the one under the left arm) is completely unprepared and can be freely handed over for examination. The other, A, is either made entirely of iron (which was the case with the fake walking stick used by Robert-Houdin) or is made of well-seasoned wood with an iron core and can support a very heavy weight. The lower end fits into a socket in the low board or table previously mentioned, making it a fixture for the time being. The upper end has a small hollow space, about an inch deep, for a purpose that will become clear shortly. The subject of the experiment wears an iron corset or framework underneath her page’s costume, similar to the one shown in Figs. 313 and 314, with more detail in Fig. 315. An iron girdle, a a, wraps nearly around her waist, the circle completed by a leather strap. Perpendicular to this, on the right side, is an iron upright, b b, extending from just below the armpit to nearly the knee, but with a joint c (which only moves back and forth) at the hip. A strap d around the leg keeps it in position, allowing for bending of the thigh. From the center back of the iron girdle extends a crutch e, also made of iron, passing between the legs and connected by a strap to the front of the girdle. A fourth strap f, attached to the girdle at both the front and back, goes over the left shoulder, preventing the apparatus from slipping down. To the upper part of the upright b b, right below the armpit, is riveted a short flat piece of iron g, which moves freely. The end of g, which forms the joint shown enlarged in Fig. 316, is welded into a semicircular ratchet with three teeth that align with a check h, lying parallel to b b. In its default position, this check is pressed close to the teeth of the ratchet by a spring but can be released by pressing down on the hook i. The opposite end of g has a projecting iron plug j coming out of its underside at a right angle, which fits perfectly into the cavity mentioned earlier at the top of the rod A. There is an opening in the bottom of the sleeve to allow this plug to pass through, which, when inserted into the corresponding cavity of A, makes g a fixture in relation to it. The rest of the iron framework (and the lady with it) remains movable, in that it can, via the joint at g, create a 90° arc relative to the upright rod.

The mode of operation will now be clear. When the young lady mounts on the stool, and extends her arms, the performer, in placing the upright beneath them, takes care to let the lower end of A sink properly into the socket, and to adapt the plug j to the cavity at top. The apparatus is now in the position shown in Fig. 313, and when the stool is removed, the lady is left apparently resting only on A, but in reality comfortably seated in her iron cage, the different parts of which are all carefully padded, so as to occasion her no discomfort.501 Her legs and arms, being quite free, may be placed in any position that the performer chooses; and when presently he lifts her into a slanting position, as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 313, the check h drops into the second tooth of the ratchet, and thus maintains her in that position. After a short interval she is lifted into the horizontal position, as in Fig. 314, when the check drops into the third tooth of the ratchet, and so maintains her, apparently sleeping upon an aërial couch. As the support terminates above the right knee, the legs are kept extended by muscular power. This attitude is therefore very fatiguing, and for that reason cannot be continued more than a few moments. To replace the lady in the upright position, the performer places both hands under the recumbent figure, the left hand easily finding (through the tunic) and drawing down the hook i, thereby withdrawing the check, and allowing the lady to sink down gently to the perpendicular. The stool is again placed under her feet, and the second upright under her left arm, before the operator begins to demesmerise her, which he does after the orthodox fashion with reverse passes, the lady simulating as best she may the bewildered and half-scared expression of one newly awakened from a mesmeric trance.

The way it works is now clear. When the young woman steps onto the stool and stretches out her arms, the performer carefully positions the upright under them, ensuring the lower end of A fits securely into the socket and aligns the plug j with the top cavity. The apparatus is now in the position shown in Fig. 313, and when the stool is removed, the woman appears to be resting solely on A, but she is actually comfortably seated in her padded iron cage, which is designed to keep her comfortable. 501 Her legs and arms are completely free, allowing her to position them as the performer wishes; when he lifts her into a slanted position, as indicated by the dotted line in Fig. 313, the check h clicks into the second tooth of the ratchet, keeping her in that position. After a brief moment, she is lifted into a horizontal position, shown in Fig. 314, where the check falls into the third tooth of the ratchet, maintaining her appearance as if she's sleeping on an airy couch. Since the support ends just above her right knee, her legs remain extended using muscle strength. This position is quite tiring and can only be held for a few moments. To return the woman to an upright position, the performer places both hands under her lying figure, his left hand easily locating the hook i through her tunic and pulling it down to release the check, allowing her to gently return to the vertical. The stool is placed back under her feet along with the second upright under her left arm before the performer begins to wake her, which he does using the traditional method of reverse passes, while the woman pretends to look bewildered and slightly scared, like someone just coming out of a mesmerized state.


502

502

CHAPTER XVIII.
Concluding Thoughts.

It now only remains to give the neophyte a few parting hints of general application. In getting up any trick, even the simplest, the first task of the student should be to carefully read and consider the instructions given, and to make quite certain that he perfectly comprehends their meaning. This being ascertained, the next point will be to see whether the trick involves any principle of sleight-of-hand in which he is not thoroughly proficient; and if it does, to set to work and practise diligently, till the difficulty is conquered. Having thus mastered the elements of the trick, he should next attack it as a whole, and in like manner practise, practise, practise, till from beginning to end he can work each successive step of the process with ease and finish. Having achieved this much, he may perhaps consider that his task is at an end. By no means. Being perfect in the mechanical portion of the illusion, he must now devote himself to its dramatic element, which, as regards the effect upon the spectator, is by far the more important portion. The performer should always bear in mind that he fills the character of a person possessing supernatural powers, and should endeavour, in every word and gesture, to enter into the spirit of his part. As the true actor, playing Hamlet, will endeavour actually to be Hamlet for the time, so the soi-disant magician must, in the first place, learn to believe in himself. When he steps upon the stage he should, for the time being, persuade himself that his fictitious power is a reality, and that the wand he holds is not only the emblem, but the actual implement of his power. Every time he pronounces the mystic “Pass!” or touches an object with his wand to effect some pretended transformation,503 he should force himself to forget the commonplace expedients by which the result is really attained, and to believe that the effect is produced by a genuine magical process. When he goes through the motion of passing a coin from the right hand to the left, he should have imagination enough to persuade himself, for the moment, that the coin has really been transferred as it appears to be. If a performer has sufficient imaginative faculty to do this—if he can so enter into the spirit of his part, as himself to believe in the marvels he professes, he will achieve an almost unlimited mastery over the imaginations of his audience.

It’s now time to give the beginner a few final tips that apply in general. When preparing any trick, even the simplest one, the first task for the student should be to read and understand the instructions carefully, ensuring that they grasp their meaning completely. Once that’s clear, the next step is to determine if the trick includes any sleight-of-hand techniques they aren’t completely skilled at; if it does, they should practice diligently until they overcome the challenge. After mastering the basics of the trick, they should focus on the entire routine and continue to practice, practice, practice, until they can perform each step smoothly and flawlessly from start to finish. Having accomplished this much, they might think their work is done. Not at all. Once they’ve perfected the mechanical aspects of the illusion, they must now dedicate themselves to its dramatic element, which is far more important in terms of its impact on the audience. The performer should always remember that they are portraying a person with supernatural abilities and should strive, in every word and gesture, to embody that role. Just as a great actor playing Hamlet tries to truly be Hamlet during the performance, the so-called magician must first learn to believe in themselves. When they step onto the stage, they should convince themselves that their imaginary powers are real and that the wand they hold is not just a symbol but the actual tool of their power. Every time they say the magical “Pass!” or touch an object with their wand to create a fake transformation,503 they should force themselves to forget the ordinary methods used to achieve the result and believe that it is produced by a real magical process. When they mimic passing a coin from one hand to the other, they should have enough imagination to convince themselves, even if just for a moment, that the coin has truly moved as it seems to. If a performer has the creative ability to do this—if they can really embrace the spirit of their character and believe in the wonders they portray, they will gain almost limitless control over the imaginations of their audience.

As we have already intimated, each individual illusion should have its appropriate words and gestures—in technical language, its “patter,” or “boniment”—carefully arranged and rehearsed, so as to produce the maximum of effect. These are, in truth, the very life of the trick. How much depends on mise en scène is forcibly illustrated by the account which we quoted in the last chapter from the life of Robert-Houdin, of his exhibition in Algeria of the “Light and Heavy Chest.” We will borrow from the same high authority another illustration, purposely selecting one of the simplest of card tricks, the well-known feat of picking out a chosen card from the pack, placed in a person’s pocket. The trick has already been described in outline, but we will recapitulate its effect in a few words.

As we’ve already mentioned, each individual illusion should have its fitting words and gestures—in technical terms, its “patter” or “boniment”—carefully arranged and practiced to create the most impact. These elements are truly the essence of the trick. The importance of mise en scène is clearly shown by the account we shared in the last chapter about Robert-Houdin’s performance in Algeria with the “Light and Heavy Chest.” We’ll take another example from this same reliable source, intentionally choosing one of the simplest card tricks, the well-known act of retrieving a selected card from a pack placed in someone’s pocket. The trick has already been outlined, but we will summarize its effect in just a few words.

The performer offers the pack to a spectator, and requests him to draw a card. (This card may or may not be “forced.”) The card having been drawn and replaced in the pack, the performer makes the pass to bring it to the top, and palms it, immediately handing the pack to be shuffled. If the card was forced, he already knows it; if not, he takes the opportunity to glance at it while the cards are being shuffled. The pack being returned, the drawn card is placed on the top, and the pack placed in the pocket of a second spectator. The performer now announces that he not only already knows the card, but that he is able to pick it out without seeing it from the remainder of the pack, which he does accordingly.

The performer hands the deck to a spectator and asks them to pick a card. (This card may be “forced” or not.) After the card is drawn and put back into the deck, the performer makes a move to bring it to the top and palms it, immediately handing the deck over to be shuffled. If the card was forced, he already knows what it is; if not, he takes the chance to sneak a look at it while the cards are being shuffled. Once the deck is returned, the chosen card is placed on top, and the deck is put in the pocket of another spectator. The performer then declares that he not only knows the card but can also identify it from the rest of the deck without seeing it, which he proceeds to do.

Presented in this barren form, the trick would attract only the most passing notice. We will now proceed to describe it, quoting again from Robert-Houdin, as it should actually be presented.

Presented in this bare form, the trick would only catch the most casual attention. We will now go on to describe it, again quoting from Robert-Houdin, as it should actually be performed.

“Ladies and gentlemen, I shall commence my performance with504 an experiment which is wholly independent of dexterity. I propose simply to show you the extreme degree of sensibility which may be acquired by the sense of touch. We possess, as you all know, five senses—sight, hearing, smell, touch, and taste. In the ordinary way, each of these senses enjoys one faculty only; but when the mysterious influences of magic are brought to bear, the case is altered. All five of the senses may be exercised through the instrumentality of one—‘touch,’ for example; so that we can not only touch, but hear, see, smell, and taste with the tips of the fingers. You smile, gentlemen, but I assure you that I am serious; and I venture to think that in a few minutes you will be fully convinced of the reality of the singular fact which I have mentioned.

“Ladies and gentlemen, I will begin my performance with504 an experiment that doesn't rely on skill at all. I simply want to demonstrate how incredibly sensitive our sense of touch can be. As you all know, we have five senses—sight, hearing, smell, touch, and taste. Typically, each of these senses has its own unique ability; however, when magical forces come into play, everything changes. All five senses can be stimulated through one—like ‘touch,’ for instance—allowing us not just to touch, but also to hear, see, smell, and taste using our fingertips. You may smile, folks, but I promise you I'm serious; and I believe that in just a few minutes, you will be fully convinced of the remarkable truth I've just shared.

“Here is a pack of cards. Madam, will you be kind enough to take whichever card you please; hold it for a moment between your hands, so as to impregnate it with the mesmeric influence of your touch, and then replace it in the middle of the pack.

“Here’s a deck of cards. Ma'am, would you be so kind as to pick any card you like; hold it for a moment between your hands to infuse it with the mesmerizing effect of your touch, and then put it back in the middle of the deck.”

“In order to exclude all possibility of sleight-of-hand, we will now thoroughly shuffle the cards; after which, for still greater certainty, I will show you that the card is neither at top nor bottom, whence you may be persuaded that it is placed just where chance has chosen to put it.” (For the purpose of showing that the card is neither at top nor bottom, it may either be left second from the top after the shuffle, if executed by the performer himself, or being actually placed on the top, the second card may be drawn instead of the first by means of a filage.)

"In order to eliminate any possibility of trickery, we will now thoroughly shuffle the cards; after which, to assure you even more, I will show you that the card is neither at the top nor the bottom, so you may believe that it is positioned exactly where chance has placed it.” (To demonstrate that the card is neither at the top nor bottom, it can either be left second from the top after the shuffle, if done by the performer, or if it is actually on top, the second card can be drawn instead of the first using a filage.)

“Will some gentleman now have the kindness to empty his breast-pocket, and allow me to place the pack in it.” (This is done.) “Now that the cards are placed in perfect darkness, I will endeavour, by virtue of that five-fold sensibility of touch which I have just mentioned, to discover, by the aid of my fingers only, the card which this lady drew. To make my task still more difficult, I will undertake to draw the card at such number as you yourselves may choose. What number shall it be?” (We will suppose that the reply is “Seventh.”) “Seventh, be it so. Then six times in succession I must avoid taking the drawn card, and produce it on the seventh occasion only. One, two, three, four, five, six.” (He exhibits six cards one by one, taking them from the bottom of the pack.) “Now to find the lady’s card!505 Yes, I think I have it. Before taking it out, I will read it with my little finger, which is the cleverest of the five. Yes! It is not a small card; it is not a club, nor a spade, nor yet a diamond. It is the king of ——” (He draws out the card, and places it face downwards.) “Will you be good enough, madam, to finish naming the card before I turn it over, and we shall see whether my little finger has been correct in its assertions.” (The lady names the king of hearts, which the performer forthwith turns up.) “My little finger was right, you see. Will you be good enough, sir, to take the remainder of the cards out of your pocket, and testify that the experiment has really been performed exactly as I have stated.”

“Could someone please be kind enough to empty their breast pocket and let me put this pack of cards in it?” (This is done.) “Now that the cards are in complete darkness, I’ll try, using that five-fold sensitivity of touch I just mentioned, to find out which card this lady drew, using only my fingers. To make this even more challenging, I’ll also draw the card at whatever number you choose. What number will it be?” (Let’s say the response is “Seventh.”) “Seventh, it is. That means I have to avoid picking the drawn card for six times in a row and only reveal it on the seventh try. One, two, three, four, five, six.” (He shows six cards one by one, taking them from the bottom of the pack.) “Now, let’s find the lady’s card!505 Yes, I think I’ve got it. Before I reveal it, I’ll read it with my little finger, which is the most skilled of the five. Yes! It’s not a small card; it’s not a club, not a spade, and not a diamond. It’s the king of ——” (He takes out the card and places it face down.) “Would you be so kind, madam, as to complete the name of the card before I turn it over so we can see if my little finger was right?” (The lady names the king of hearts, which the performer then reveals.) “My little finger was correct, as you can see. Would you be so kind, sir, as to take the remaining cards out of your pocket and confirm that the experiment was carried out just as I described it?”

The above example will show how, by the exercise of a little tact and ingenuity, a simple piece of parlour magic may be elevated to the dignity of a stage trick. The great secret is the directing of the minds of the audience into such a channel, that the dénouement for the moment seems to be a natural result of the causes artfully suggested by the performer. This may, to a considerable extent, be effected, as in the example above given, by the language and gesture of the performer in the individual trick; but still more may be done by the artistic grouping of one trick with another, a comparatively simple feat being employed to prepare the minds of the spectators for the greater marvel to follow. Thus, in the recent performances of the Fakir of Oolu, the aërial suspension, which formed the staple of his programme, was preceded by the exhibition of a wooden rod or wand which (by means of certain projecting wire points, so minute as to be imperceptible at a very short distance), was made to defy the laws of gravity by clinging to his finger-tips in various positions without visible support. This minor illusion, being somewhat similar in effect (though wholly different as to the means employed), prepared the minds of the audience to receive the greater marvel of a living woman made to recline in mid-air. In like manner, the trick of the “Flying Money” (see page 172) forms an apt preparation for the introduction of the “Crystal Cash-box” (page 487). The series of tricks described under the title of the “Birth of Flowers” (page 411), affords another instance of the artistic combination of two or three different tricks in such manner as to enhance the effect of the whole; but, in truth, examples might be multiplied ad infinitum. In arranging an entertainment,506 the performer should continually bear this principle in mind. The programme should consist not of a number of absolutely unconnected tricks, but of a series of ten or a dozen groups of tricks. As compared with each other, the groups should have as much diversity as possible; but, individually, each should consist of the same or a similar effect repeated in a more and more striking form (though produced by different means), or else of a string of tricks united by some natural sequence, as in the case of the production of the two rabbits from the hat, followed by the rolling of the one into the other, and terminating with the reproduction of the vanished animal in another quarter. In order to make our meaning clearer, we subjoin a specimen working programme, arranged on the principles we have stated.

The example above demonstrates how, with a bit of skill and creativity, a simple piece of parlour magic can be transformed into a stage trick. The key is to guide the audience’s thoughts in such a way that the outcome seems like a natural result of the cleverly suggested causes by the performer. This can largely be achieved, as shown in the example above, through the performer’s language and gestures in the individual trick; however, even more can be accomplished by skillfully linking one trick to another, using a relatively simple trick to prepare the audience for a more impressive feat to come. For instance, in the recent performances of the Fakir of Oolu, the main act of aerial suspension was preceded by a display of a wooden rod or wand that, due to very small projecting wire points, was made to defy gravity by sticking to his fingertips in various positions without visible support. This minor illusion, while similar in effect (though entirely different in execution), primed the audience for the larger astonishment of a living woman floating in mid-air. Similarly, the trick of the “Flying Money” (see page 172) sets the stage for the introduction of the “Crystal Cash-box” (page 487). The tricks categorized under the title of the “Birth of Flowers” (page 411) provide another example of how combining two or three different tricks can enhance the overall effect; however, in reality, there could be countless examples ad infinitum. When planning a performance,506 the performer should always keep this principle in mind. The program should not just be a collection of unrelated tricks but rather a series of ten or twelve groups of tricks. Each group should be as diverse as possible in comparison to one another; however, each should consist of the same or a similar effect presented in increasingly striking ways (though produced by different means), or else a sequence of tricks linked by some natural progression, like producing two rabbits from a hat, rolling one into the other, and concluding with the return of the vanished rabbit in another spot. To clarify our point, we are including a sample working program based on the principles we’ve outlined.

Programme (for performer’s own use).

Program (for the performer’s own use).

1. Vanishing gloves (page 325). Transformed handkerchief (page 246). Handkerchief ultimately found in candle (page 249).

1. Disappearing gloves (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__). Changed handkerchief (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__). Handkerchief eventually found in a candle (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__).

2. Borrowed half-crown, changed to penny, and back again (page 161); made to pass into centre of two oranges in succession (page 170). Three more half-crowns borrowed, and all four made to pass invisibly from performer’s hand to goblet at a distance (page 200), and finally into crystal cash-box (page 487).

2. Borrowed half-crown, changed to a penny, and back again (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__); made to pass into the center of two oranges in succession (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_4__). Three more half-crowns borrowed, and all four made to pass invisibly from the performer’s hand to a goblet at a distance (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_5__), and finally into a crystal cash box (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_6__).

3. Shower of sweets produced from borrowed handkerchief (page 251), followed by bird-cages (page 311). Then bowls of gold-fish from shawl (page 371).

3. A shower of sweets produced from a borrowed handkerchief (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_7__), followed by birdcages (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_8__). Then bowls of goldfish from a shawl (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_9__).

4. Eggs produced from mouth of assistant (page 329). Wizard’s omelet (page 398). Dove wrapped in paper, and vanished (page 452).

4. Eggs produced from the assistant’s mouth (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_10__). Wizard’s omelet (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_11__). Dove wrapped in paper and disappeared (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_12__).

5. Chosen card picked out of pack placed in a spectator’s pocket (page 106). Chosen card caught on sword (page 121). The rising cards (page 125).

5. The selected card taken from the deck is now in a spectator's pocket (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_13__). The chosen card is caught on a sword (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_14__). The cards that are rising (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_15__).

6. Borrowed watch, made to bend backwards and forwards (page 214). Made to strike the hour as a repeater (page 222). Placed in pistol, and fired at target (page 220).

6. Borrowed watch, designed to bend backward and forward (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_16__). Set to chime the hour like a repeater (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_17__). Put in a pistol and fired at a target (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_18__).

7. The Chinese rings (page 401).

7. The Chinese rings (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_19__).

8. Rabbits produced from borrowed hat; one rolled into the other, and subsequently found in bran-glass (page 452). Multiplying balls and cannon-balls produced from hat (page 304).

8. Rabbits conjured from a borrowed hat; one rolled into another and later found in a bran-glass (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_20__). Multiplying balls and cannonballs came out of the hat (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_21__).

507 9. Inexhaustible box (page 391), producing toys, reticules (page 309), and finally Chinese lanterns (page 395).

507 9. An endless box (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_22__), creating toys, handbags (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_23__), and ultimately Chinese lanterns (__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_24__).

The above, with proper mise en scène, will be found an ample programme for a two hours’ entertainment. It is hardly necessary to observe that the programme of the same entertainment for distribution among the audience would be of a very different character. This is always drawn up in the vaguest possible terms, so as not to reveal beforehand the actual effect of the different tricks. Thus the tricks in question would be described somewhat as follows:—

The above, with the right mise en scène, will provide a full program for a two-hour show. It’s not really necessary to point out that the program given to the audience would be quite different. This is usually written in very vague terms to avoid giving away the actual impact of the different tricks beforehand. So, the tricks in question would be described somewhat as follows:—

Programme (for distribution).

Program (for distribution).

1. The Enchanted Handkerchief.
2. The Flying Coins.
3. A Succession of Surprises.
4. The Fairy Omelet.
5. The Cabalistic Cards.
6. The Mesmerised Watch.
7. The Chinese Rings.
8. The Bewitched Hat.
9. The Feast of Lanterns.

1. The Enchanted Handkerchief.
2. The Flying Coins.
3. A Series of Surprises.
4. The Magical Omelet.
5. The Mysterious Cards.
6. The Hypnotized Watch.
7. The Chinese Rings.
8. The Cursed Hat.
9. The Lantern Festival.

Between each of the items above-mentioned, there should be an interval of one or two minutes (filled up by music), while the operator leaves the stage, and makes the necessary preparation for the next trick. It will further be found an advantage, where practicable, to divide the entertainment into two parts, with an interval of ten minutes or so between them, the curtain being let down during such interval. The few minutes’ break is always acceptable to the audience (who are apt to become fatigued by too long protracted attention), and is especially valuable to the performer, as enabling him to re-arrange his servante, removing articles that have served their purpose, and replacing them by such as may be needed for the tricks to come. An overcrowded servante is a fertile source of annoyance and failure, as an article accidentally falling from it reveals the existence of a receptacle behind the table, and thereby deprives the performance of half its effect. When a re-arrangement of the servante between the508 parts of the performance is impracticable, it is well, if any tricks involving the production of articles from this quarter are included in the programme, to introduce such tricks as early as possible, so that the servante may be relieved of such articles, and left clear for its second use of getting rid of articles upon it. We have known a professor, performing the “flying glass of water” trick, and in placing the glass on the servante, knock down a cannon-ball, placed there to be introduced, later on, into a hat. That cannon-ball weighed on the professor’s mind for the rest of the evening, and the performance was practically spoilt.

Between each of the items mentioned above, there should be a break of one or two minutes (filled with music) while the performer leaves the stage to prepare for the next trick. It's also beneficial, whenever possible, to divide the show into two parts, with a ten-minute break in between, during which the curtain is lowered. The short break is always appreciated by the audience (who can get tired from too much prolonged focus), and it’s especially useful for the performer, allowing them to rearrange their servante, removing items that have been used and replacing them with what will be needed for the upcoming tricks. An overcrowded servante can lead to frustration and mistakes, as an item accidentally falling from it reveals that there’s a hidden compartment behind the table, taking away much of the performance’s impact. When it's not possible to rearrange the servante between the parts of the show, it’s best to include tricks that require items from this area early on in the program so that the servante can be cleared of those items and remain ready for its next use to dispose of articles on it. We have seen a performer doing the “flying glass of water” trick, and while placing the glass on the servante, accidentally knock down a cannonball that was meant to be introduced later into a hat. That cannonball weighed heavily on the performer’s mind for the rest of the night, and the show was basically ruined.

Having arranged his programme, and the appropriate “patter” for each group of tricks, the performer should conclude his practice by a series of three or four “dress rehearsals,” with an intelligent friend to play the part of audience, and who should be invited to criticise with the utmost freedom. At these rehearsals there should be no “make believe,” but each trick should be worked throughout with the same completeness in every particular with which it is afterwards to be exhibited in public. In the course of these final rehearsals the performer should tax his invention to see what amount of “incidents,” or byplay, he can introduce in the course of the different tricks. Thus at the commencement of his entertainment, the trick of the “Flower in the Button-hole,” or that of the “Vanishing Gloves” may be introduced—not professedly as an item of the programme, but as a little preliminary flourish. Again, if the performer has occasion for an egg or lemon in the course of a trick, it greatly enhances the effect, if instead of having the necessary article brought in by his assistant, he produces it himself from a lady’s muff, or from the whiskers of a male spectator. These little matters, though small in themselves, tend to keep alive the attention of the audience, and to create a sort of magical atmosphere, which will aid materially in disposing the spectators to receive with due respect the occult pretensions of the performer.

After organizing his performance and the right “script” for each set of tricks, the performer should finish his practice with a few “dress rehearsals,” ideally with a smart friend acting as the audience, who should be encouraged to offer honest feedback. During these rehearsals, there should be no pretending; each trick should be executed as completely as it will be in front of a real audience. Throughout these final rehearsals, the performer should challenge his creativity to see what “incidents” or side actions he can add during the various tricks. For instance, at the start of his show, he might include the trick of the “Flower in the Button-hole,” or the “Vanishing Gloves,” not as a scheduled part of the program, but as a fun little intro. Additionally, if the performer needs an egg or lemon during a trick, it makes a bigger impact if he produces it himself from a lady’s muff or from a male spectator’s mustache, rather than having his assistant bring it on stage. These small touches, while seemingly minor, help keep the audience engaged and create a magical atmosphere that will encourage them to fully respect the performer’s mysterious talents.

With respect to stage arrangements, the professional, performing evening after evening, with full provision of stage appliances, will quickly learn by experience how best to arrange those appliances for the purpose of his entertainment; but the amateur, performing only occasionally, and in places not specially adapted for magical purposes, may be glad of some little practical counsel in this particular.

With regards to stage setups, a professional performing night after night, with all the right stage equipment, will quickly learn from experience how to best arrange that equipment for their performance. However, an amateur, performing only occasionally and in venues not specifically designed for magic, might appreciate some practical advice on this matter.

509

509

Fig. 317.

We will suppose, for instance, that he is called upon to give a magical séance in a private drawing-room. The first point is to decide which part of the room is to form the “stage.” Having settled this, the seats for the spectators should be arranged at the opposite end of the room, leaving as wide a space between as can well be obtained, as many “changes,” etc., are effected during the journey from the audience to the table, and the longer this journey is, the more time is available for the necessary manipulations. At the stage end, the “table” will be the principal feature, and either behind or beside this, should be placed a screen of not less than six feet in height, and four or five wide, to serve as “behind the scenes,” and to afford the cover necessary for the various preparations. Supposing a regular screen is not available, one must be extemporized. A large clothes-horse, with a curtain thrown over it, will answer the purpose very well. If, however, the drawing-room be of the regular London fashion, i.e., consisting of a large front and a small back room, connected by folding doors, the screen may be dispensed with, and the rooms arranged as in Fig. 317, which represents a ground plan of two such rooms, with the adjoining staircase and landing. The larger room, A, will form the auditorium, and the smaller, B, the stage; a and b representing the doors leading to the510 landing, and c c the folding doors between the two rooms. The folding doors (which act as curtain) being first closed, the spectators are marshalled into A, and requested to take their seats, and the door b is then closed, to remain so throughout the entertainment. The room B is arranged as follows:—The “table” d is placed in the centre, towards the back, with its servante properly arranged. This may either stand alone, or may be supplemented by a couple of side tables, e e. An ordinary table, f, should be placed outside the door, and upon this will be laid in due order the various pieces of apparatus and other articles which will be required in the course of the entertainment. A working programme should be kept on this table for the use of the performer and his assistant, with a note of the articles required for the purpose of each trick. This will enable them to have everything ready at the right moment, without delay or confusion. The door a should be kept open, so that the assistant, from his place by the table f, can instantly see and hear what is wanted.

We can imagine, for example, that he is asked to perform a magical séance in a private living room. The first step is to decide which part of the room will be the "stage." Once that's settled, the seats for the audience should be set up at the opposite end of the room, leaving as much space as possible between them, since many "changes," etc., will happen during the walk from the audience to the table, and the longer this walk is, the more time there is for the necessary preparations. At the stage end, the "table" will be the main focus, and either behind or next to it, there should be a screen that is at least six feet tall and four to five feet wide, to act as a "backstage" area and provide the cover needed for various setups. If a proper screen isn't available, one can be quickly made with a large clothes dryer covered with a curtain. However, if the living room follows the typical London style, that is, having a large front room and a smaller back room connected by folding doors, the screen can be omitted. The rooms should be arranged as shown in Fig. 317, which illustrates the layout of two such rooms, along with the adjacent staircase and landing. The larger room, A, will serve as the audience area, and the smaller room, B, will function as the stage; a and b represent the doors leading to the510 landing, and c c denotes the folding doors between the two rooms. The folding doors, which act as a curtain, will be closed first, and the audience will be ushered into A and asked to take their seats. Then, door b will be closed and remain so throughout the show. Room B will be set up as follows: The "table" d is placed in the center toward the back, with its servante arranged properly. This can be placed alone or could be accompanied by a couple of side tables, e e. An ordinary table, f, should be positioned outside the door, and all the required pieces of equipment and other items for the performance will be neatly organized on this table. A working program should be kept on this table for the performer and his assistant, noting the items needed for each trick. This will ensure they have everything ready at the right time, without delays or confusion. Door a should remain open so that the assistant, from his spot by table f, can quickly see and hear what's needed.

When the performer has made his bow to his audience, there are still one or two little points that he will do well to bear in mind. They may be summarized as follows:—

When the performer has finished his bow to the audience, there are still a couple of important points to keep in mind. They can be summarized as follows:—

1. Don’t be nervous. (The reader may possibly consider that this is a matter in which he has no choice; but nothing could be a greater mistake.) A little diffidence is excusable on the first presentation of a new programme, but never afterwards.

1. Don’t be nervous. (The reader might think this is something he can’t avoid; but that’s a huge misconception.) It's okay to feel a bit hesitant when introducing a new program for the first time, but not after that.

2. Take your time. Deliver your boniment like an actor playing his part, and not like a school-boy repeating his lesson. Further, give your audience time to see and appreciate your movements. Young performers are very apt to exhibit the second phase of a transformation without having sufficiently indicated the first to the spectators. The change of, say, an orange to an apple, falls decidedly flat if nobody noticed that the article was an orange in the first instance.

2. Take your time. Present your boniment like an actor in character, not like a student reciting a lesson. Also, allow your audience time to observe and appreciate your movements. Young performers often show the second part of a transformation without clearly showing the first to the audience. The change from, say, an orange to an apple feels disappointing if nobody realized it was an orange to start with.

3. Don’t make any parade of dexterity, and don’t affect any unusual quickness in your movements. If you are about to vanish a coin, don’t play shuttlecock with it from hand to hand as a preliminary; but make the necessary “pass” as quietly and deliberately as you possibly can. Don’t talk about “the quickness of the hand deceiving the eye,” and still less do anything to support such an idea. The perfection of conjuring lies in the ars artem celandi—in sending511 away the spectators persuaded that sleight-of-hand has not been employed at all, and unable to suggest any solution of the wonders they have seen.

3. Don’t show off your skills, and don’t pretend to be unusually quick in your movements. If you're about to make a coin disappear, don’t toss it back and forth between your hands beforehand; just make the necessary “pass” as quietly and deliberately as you can. Don’t talk about “the quickness of the hand deceiving the eye,” and even more so, don’t do anything that supports that idea. The essence of magic lies in the ars artem celandi—in leaving the audience convinced that sleight-of-hand hasn’t been used at all, and unable to suggest any explanation for the wonders they have witnessed.

4. Don’t force yourself to be funny. If you are naturally humorous, so much the better; but in any case perform in your natural character.

4. Don't push yourself to be funny. If you're naturally humorous, that's great; but either way, just be yourself.

5. Avoid personalities. We except the case of the often recurring nuisance, the gentleman who professes to know how everything is done, and whose special endeavour it is to embarrass the performer. When you can make a person of this kind look like a fool (by no means a difficult task) by all means do so.

5. Avoid personalities. We make an exception for the recurring nuisance: the guy who claims to know how everything is done and whose main goal is to embarrass the performer. If you can make someone like that look ridiculous (and it's usually not hard), then definitely go for it.

6. Never plead guilty to a failure. Keep your wits about you, and if anything goes wrong, try to save your credit by bringing the trick to some sort of a conclusion, even though it be a comparatively weak one. If you are so unfortunate as to experience a complete and unmistakeable break-down, smile cheerfully, and ascribe the fiasco to the moon being in a wrong quarter, to a little misunderstanding between two of your “controlling spirits,” or any other burlesque reason, so long as it be sufficiently remote from the true one.

6. Never admit to a failure. Stay sharp, and if anything goes wrong, try to salvage your reputation by bringing the act to some kind of conclusion, even if it’s a bit weak. If you find yourself experiencing a total and obvious breakdown, smile brightly and blame the fiasco on the moon being in the wrong phase, a small misunderstanding between two of your “controlling spirits,” or any other absurd excuse, as long as it’s far enough from the real reason.

Bearing in mind these parting counsels, and thus armed against failure as well as prepared for success, you may safely ring up the curtain, and begin to “witch the world” with the marvels and mysteries of

Bearing in mind these parting pieces of advice, and thus equipped to handle both failure and success, you can confidently raise the curtain and start to "enchant the world" with the wonders and secrets of

MODERN MAGIC.

Modern Magic.


513

513

APPENDIX.

CONTAINING

CONTAINING

EXPLANATIONS OF SOME OF THE BEST KNOWN SPECIALTIES OF MESSRS. MASKELYNE AND COOKE.

EXPLANATIONS OF SOME OF THE BEST KNOWN SPECIALTIES OF MESSRS. MASKELYNE AND COOKE.

BY
ARPREY VERE.

BY
ARPREY VERE.

515

515

Old and New Magic.

CHAPTER I.
Introduction.

The wonder excited by the marvellous automatons of Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke has caused many inquiries into the art of mechanical conjuring. Although the productions of those gentleman at the Egyptian Hall have been thought by the general public to be unprecedented, we shall see that their marvels have been produced in ages long gone by, and that the art of conjuring, or producing apparently unaccountable and magical results by means of mechanism, was an art brought to great perfection hundreds of years ago, and long before “Psycho” astonished the metropolis.

The excitement generated by the amazing machines of Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke has sparked many questions about the art of mechanical magic. While the shows by these gentlemen at the Egyptian Hall have been viewed by the public as one-of-a-kind, we will discover that their wonders were created long ago and that the art of magic—producing seemingly impossible and magical effects using mechanisms—was refined to a high level hundreds of years before “Psycho” amazed the city.

My readers will perceive that the automatic figures of these caterers of wonders are neither original nor novel. I hope that, as the art of magic is so very popular, a brief exposition of the subject will be found interesting to many readers.

My readers will notice that the automated figures created by these wonder-makers are not original or new. I hope that, since the art of magic is so popular, a short explanation of the topic will be interesting to many readers.

It is my intention in this and the following chapters to give a brief summary of the history of mechanical magic in ancient and modern times, and then to furnish a full explanation of how the apparently marvellous results of sleight of hand, second sight, and the mysterious movements of automata of the present day, are attained; and my readers will no doubt reap a harvest of information on the subject, and will be able not only to perform many of the numerous tricks at which they have before been astonished, but will also be in a position to explain to the uninitiated “How it is done.”

In this chapter and the next, I plan to provide a brief overview of the history of mechanical magic from ancient times to the present. I'll also give a full explanation of how the seemingly amazing effects of sleight of hand, second sight, and the mysterious movements of today's automata are achieved. My readers can expect to gain a wealth of knowledge on the topic, enabling them not only to perform many of the tricks that have previously amazed them but also to explain to those who are unfamiliar with it “How it is done.”

Passing over the ancient oracles which have been shown so frequently as being worked by the simple law of mechanics, I would merely516 mention that Plato and Aristotle both speak of certain statues made by Dædalus which could not only walk, but which it was necessary to bind in order to prevent them from moving. The latter speaks of a wonderful Venus of this kind, and all we are told of the motive power is that Dædalus made it move by means of quicksilver. Aulus Gellius mentions a wooden pigeon which possessed the power of flying, but the only fault of this piece of mechanism was that when the pigeon once settled, it could not renew its aërial flight. Cassiodorus, who lived in the sixth century, gives a concise and graphic description of certain machines invented by Bœthius. He says “the birds of Diomedes (a mechanician of that date) trumpet in brass, the brazen serpent hisses, counterfeit swallows chatter, and such as have no proper note send forth from brass harmonious music.” Accounts of the heads said to have been constructed by Roger Bacon and Albertus Magnus, are so mixed up with fables that we cannot rely upon their veracity; and yet our experience has shown us that they could have been produced. They are said not only to have moved, but spoken, and their heads were used as oracles. Perhaps it will be remembered that some years ago a similar head, with the same power of imitating the human voice, was exhibited at the Egyptian Hall, London.

Ignoring the ancient predictions that have often been explained as simple mechanical work, I just want to mention that both Plato and Aristotle talked about certain statues made by Dædalus that could not only walk but also had to be restrained to stop them from moving. Aristotle describes a remarkable Venus like this, and we only know that Dædalus made it move using quicksilver. Aulus Gellius mentions a wooden pigeon that could fly, but the only flaw in this mechanism was that once the pigeon landed, it couldn't take off again. Cassiodorus, who lived in the sixth century, gives a clear and vivid description of some machines invented by Bœthius. He states, “the birds of Diomedes (a mechanic from that time) trumpet in brass, the bronze serpent hisses, fake swallows chatter, and those that don't have a proper sound produce harmonious music from brass.” Accounts of heads supposedly made by Roger Bacon and Albertus Magnus are so mixed with legends that we can't trust their truthfulness; however, our experience suggests they could have been created. It's said they not only moved but also spoke, and their heads were used as oracles. Perhaps it's remembered that a few years ago, a similar head, capable of mimicking the human voice, was displayed at the Egyptian Hall in London.

John Muller, known as Regiomontanus, was one of the cleverest mechanicians of the fifteenth century—that is, if we can rely on the testimony of Peter Ramus, who did not flourish until a hundred years afterward. We must take Peter’s account cum grano salis. Regiomontanus is stated to have constructed an eagle which, upon the approach of the Emperor Maximilian to Nuremberg, in June, 1470, perched upon the town gate, stretched forth its wings, and saluted him by an inclination of the body. He is also said to have manufactured an iron fly. At dinner one day, when surrounded by his friends, he produced it for their amusement, and caused the insect to fly from his hand, take a circle round the room, and return again to its maker. Charles V. after his abdication entered with zest into the study of mechanism. He engaged the services of Torriano, said to be a very eminent artist, who accompanied him to the Monastery of Juste. Here they worked together. Strada tells us that his Majesty frequently introduced puppets upon the table, some of which beat517 drums, some blew trumpets, others charged each other with couched spears, and with a ferocity almost human. He made wooden sparrows, which, by their flight, terrified and scared the superstitious monks, who thought him a magician and an accomplice of his infernal majesty. He is said to have made a mill which moved of itself, and which was so small that a monk could put it up his sleeve, and yet we are told that it was powerful enough to grind in a single day grain sufficient for the consumption of eight men!

John Muller, known as Regiomontanus, was one of the smartest mechanics of the fifteenth century—at least, if we can trust the account of Peter Ramus, who wasn't around until a hundred years later. We should take Peter's account with a grain of salt. Regiomontanus is said to have built an eagle that, when Emperor Maximilian approached Nuremberg in June 1470, perched on the town gate, spread its wings, and greeted him with a bow. He is also reported to have created an iron fly. One day at dinner, surrounded by his friends, he brought it out for their entertainment, making the insect fly from his hand, circle the room, and return to him. After his abdication, Charles V threw himself into studying mechanics. He hired Torriano, who was considered a very talented artist, to join him at the Monastery of Juste. There, they collaborated. Strada tells us that the king often brought puppets to the table, some of which beat drums, some blew trumpets, and others charged at each other with couched spears, showing a ferocity that was almost human. He made wooden sparrows that flew around, scaring the superstitious monks, who thought he was a magician and in league with the devil. He reportedly created a mill that operated on its own and was small enough for a monk to hide in his sleeve, yet it was powerful enough to grind enough grain in a single day to feed eight men!

Hans Bullman, a padlock-maker of Nuremberg, who lived in the middle of the sixteenth century, made figures of men and women which promenaded backward and forward, beat drums, and played upon the lute. The motive power in this case was known to be clockwork.

Hans Bullman, a padlock maker from Nuremberg, who lived in the mid-sixteenth century, created figures of men and women that walked back and forth, beat drums, and played the lute. The mechanism behind this was known to be clockwork.

In the volume of “Mémoires de l’Académie des Sciences,” of 1729, we find an account of a most extraordinary piece of mechanism invented by one Père Truchet, made solely for the amusement of Louis XIV. when a child. It consisted of a number of moving pictures, representing an opera in five acts, which the little figures enacted—of course, in pantomime.

In the volume of “Mémoires de l’Académie des Sciences,” from 1729, there's a description of a really remarkable piece of machinery created by a man named Père Truchet, made solely for the entertainment of Louis XIV when he was a child. It included a series of moving images that depicted an opera in five acts, which the tiny figures performed—of course, in pantomime.

Camus constructed with the same object a small carriage, drawn by two horses, which contained a little lady, with her coachman driving, and a footman and page holding on behind. When placed upon the floor of the table, the horses galloped along, and the coachman smacked his whip in quite a professional manner. When the carriage stopped, the page got down, opened the door, the lady stepped out, and with a curtsey bowed and presented a petition to the young king. She again bowed, entered the carriage, the page mounted, the coachman flogged his horses, the carriage glided on, while the footman ran behind, and at last jumped upon the box.

Camus built a small cart with the same purpose, pulled by two horses, which held a lady inside, with her driver steering and a footman and page hanging on at the back. When set on the tabletop, the horses galloped, and the driver cracked his whip like a pro. When the cart came to a stop, the page hopped down, opened the door, the lady stepped out, curtsied, bowed, and presented a request to the young king. She bowed again, got back into the cart, the page climbed back up, the driver urged his horses on, the cart glided forward, while the footman ran behind and finally jumped onto the seat.

In 1738, there were exhibited in Paris, by M. Vaucanson, three automata, which have been reproduced in modern times: one represented a flute player in a sitting posture, which performed twelve distinct tunes; the second was a standing figure, which discoursed harmony on a shepherd’s flute, held in his left hand, while with his right he beat on a tabor; the third was a life-size duck, which flapped its wings, quacked, drank water, ate corn, and even performed other functions of nature that made it more closely resemble its natural prototype.518 Some idea may be formed of the modus operandi of the cornet player of Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke, by the information afforded by Vaucanson himself, which was published in 1738, and which purports to give a full explanation of the method of working the automaton flute player. The figure was five feet and a half high; it was seated upon a rock, which was supported by a pedestal four feet high, by three and a half broad. Within the pedestal were eight pair of bellows, which were set in motion by clockwork. The wind was forced into these tubes, which ascended through its trunk, and terminated in a single reservoir connected with the cavity of the mouth. Another piece of clockwork within the pedestal was applied to execute the necessary motions of the fingers, lips, and tongue. A revolving cylinder, with various pegs inserted in it, raised or depressed several levers, on the principle of a barrel organ and in this manner, it was said, music was produced very little inferior, if not equal, to the performance of a skilful flute player of flesh and blood.

In 1738, M. Vaucanson showcased three automata in Paris that have been reinvented in modern times: one depicted a seated flute player that performed twelve different tunes; the second was a standing figure that played harmonious notes on a shepherd's flute held in its left hand while beating on a tabor with its right; the third was a life-sized duck that flapped its wings, quacked, drank water, ate corn, and even engaged in other natural behaviors that made it closely resemble its real-life counterpart.518 You can get an idea of how the cornet player from Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke worked by looking at the information provided by Vaucanson himself, published in 1738. This document claims to offer a complete explanation of how the automaton flute player operated. The figure stood five and a half feet tall and was seated on a rock supported by a pedestal that was four feet high and three and a half feet wide. Inside the pedestal were eight pairs of bellows activated by clockwork. Wind was pumped into these tubes that rose through its torso and connected to a single reservoir linked to the mouth cavity. Another clockwork mechanism within the pedestal controlled the movements of the fingers, lips, and tongue. A revolving cylinder with various pegs raised or lowered several levers, based on the principle of a barrel organ, and in this way, it was said that music was produced that was very close to, if not equal to, that of a skilled human flute player.

One of the most ingenious inventors of mechanical figures was Mons. Maillardet, a Swiss. He exhibited in London a beautiful figure which performed eighteen tunes on the piano, while imitating at the same time all the motions of the human player. From a description given we learn that the bosom heaved, the eyes followed the motions of the fingers, and at the commencement and conclusion of an air the figure turned to the audience and made a graceful salute. Mons. Maillardet also constructed the figure of a boy kneeling that held in the right hand a pencil with which he executed some capital drawings and pieces of writing.

One of the most clever inventors of mechanical figures was Mr. Maillardet, a Swiss. He showcased a beautiful figure in London that played eighteen tunes on the piano while mimicking all the movements of a human player. From the description provided, we learn that the chest heaved, the eyes followed the movements of the fingers, and at the beginning and end of a song, the figure turned to the audience and made a graceful bow. Mr. Maillardet also created a figure of a kneeling boy who held a pencil in his right hand and produced some outstanding drawings and pieces of writing.

Another marvel produced by the Swiss was a magician, who answered any question put to him from twenty different medals. The medal was placed in a drawer, and, after much cogitation and reference to his books, he, with a solemn wave of his wand, touched the drawer, which opened and displayed the required answer.

Another wonder created by the Swiss was a magician who answered any question given to him from twenty different medals. The medal was put in a drawer, and after a lot of thought and checking his books, he would solemnly wave his wand, touch the drawer, which would then open to reveal the answer needed.

The celebrated automaton Chess Player will be well remembered. The history of this wonderful piece of mechanism is as follows: M. Wolfgang de Kempelen, a Hungarian gentleman, devoted himself from an early age to the study of mechanics. In 1769 he paid a visit to Vienna on business of his office of Aulic Counsellor to the Royal Chamber of the domains of the Emperor of Germany in Hungary.519 He received an invitation from the Empress Maria Theresa to be present at certain magnetical experiments exhibited by a French gentleman of the name of Pelletier. While in conversation with the Empress during its exhibition, Mons. Kempelen asserted that he felt himself competent to construct a piece of mechanism far more surprising than those which they were witnessing. The Empress took him at his word, and bound him to keep or attempt to keep his promise. He kept it, and in six months he produced the famous Chess Player. When shown in Vienna, it caused the greatest excitement and admiration. It was the talk of society. The inventor, in spite of its success, persistently refused to exhibit it in public. He put it aside, and even took it to pieces, and for several years it was not used.

The famous automaton Chess Player will be fondly remembered. The story of this amazing piece of machinery goes like this: M. Wolfgang de Kempelen, a Hungarian gentleman, dedicated himself from a young age to the study of mechanics. In 1769, he traveled to Vienna for work related to his role as Aulic Counsellor to the Royal Chamber of the Emperor of Germany's domains in Hungary.519 He received an invitation from Empress Maria Theresa to attend some magnetic experiments presented by a French gentleman named Pelletier. While talking with the Empress during the exhibition, M. Kempelen claimed he could build a mechanism far more astonishing than what they were witnessing. The Empress took him seriously and urged him to keep or at least try to keep his promise. He followed through, and six months later, he unveiled the famous Chess Player. When it was displayed in Vienna, it created a huge buzz and admiration. It was the talk of the town. Despite its success, the inventor consistently refused to show it publicly. He set it aside and even took it apart, and for several years, it was not used.

It was not until the visit of the Grand Duke Paul of Russia, and his consort, to the Court of Vienna, that the chess player was again brought to light, and exhibited by the wish of the Empress. The royal visitors were so delighted with its marvellous performance that they urged Kempelen to permit its public exhibition. He complied, and it was shown in various parts of Germany and France, and in 1785 it was brought to England. When Kempelen died, about 1803, the figure was sold by his son to Mons. Marlzel, and in 1819 that gentleman brought it again to the metropolis. That figure, exhibited some time ago in the Crystal Palace, was an improvement upon Kempelen’s Chess Player.

It wasn't until Grand Duke Paul of Russia and his wife visited the Court of Vienna that the chess player was rediscovered and showcased at the request of the Empress. The royal visitors were so impressed with its incredible performance that they encouraged Kempelen to allow it to be exhibited publicly. He agreed, and it toured various locations in Germany and France, reaching England in 1785. When Kempelen passed away around 1803, his son sold the figure to Mons. Marlzel, who brought it back to London in 1819. That figure, which was displayed some time ago in the Crystal Palace, was an improved version of Kempelen’s Chess Player.

The following is a description of the original Chess Player: The room in which it was exhibited had an inner apartment, within which appeared the figure of a Turk of the natural size, sitting behind a chest 3½ ft. 2 in. breadth and 2½ ft. in height. To this was attached the wooden shelf on which the figure sat. The chest was movable on casters, and could be moved to any part of the room. On its top, in the centre of the chest, was an immovable chessboard, upon which the eyes of the figure were always fixed. Its right hand and arm were extended on the chest, while the left, slightly raised, held a long pipe. Two doors in front and two doors in the back of the chest were opened, and a drawer in the bottom of it, containing the chess-men and a cushion whereon to place the arm of the automaton, was pulled out. Two smaller doors were also opened520 in the body of the figure, and a lighted candle was held within the openings thus displayed. This was repeated at the conclusion of the game, if the spectators so wished. The chest appeared divided by a partition into two unequal chambers, that on the right being the narrowest, and occupying one third of the whole. It was full of small wheels, and cylinders and levers. That to the left contained wheels, barrels with springs, and two quadrants placed horizontally. The door and drawer having been closed, the exhibitor wound up the works with a key inserted in a small opening in the side of the chest, placed a cushion beneath the arm of the figure, and then challenged any one of the company present to play a game with it. It was observed that in playing the automaton always selected the white pieces, and had the first move. Owing to a curious mistake of the inventor, the figure moved the men with his left hand. The error, when found out, could not afterward be rectified. Its hands and fingers opened, and then grasped a piece, which it conveyed to the proper square. In taking a piece, the same motion was made by the arm and hand as before; it, however, conveyed the piece off the board, and then placed its own piece upon the vacant square. While and after his opponent made a move, the figure paused for a few moments as though contemplating its own. It intimated with a nod of the head when it gave check to the king. During the time the arm was in motion, a low sound of clockwork running down was distinctly heard. The works were wound up at intervals by the exhibitor, who otherwise did nothing but walk up and down the room. As we find that the automaton both lost and won—in Kempelen’s time it very seldom lost—and that each game was different to the others, it necessarily follows that these phenomena are inconsistent with the sole effects of mechanism. Various conjectures have been offered as to the mode of communication between the figure and the intelligence which directed it. A plausible and probable explanation was given in 1821 in a pamphlet called, “An Attempt to Analyze the Automaton Chess Player.” In this brochure it is shown that in spite of the apparent display of the interior of the chest and the figure, there yet was ample space left unopened for the concealment of a person of ordinary size behind a false back to the narrowest division only. This is shown in the accompanying illustrations.

The following is a description of the original Chess Player: The room where it was displayed had an inner space, featuring a life-size figure of a Turk seated behind a chest that was 3½ ft. wide and 2½ ft. high. A wooden shelf attached to this chest supported the figure. The chest was movable on wheels, allowing it to be placed anywhere in the room. On top, in the center of the chest, was a fixed chessboard, which the figure always seemed to be watching. Its right arm was extended on the chest, while the left arm, slightly raised, held a long pipe. Two doors opened in the front and two in the back of the chest, and a drawer at the bottom, containing the chess pieces and a cushion for the automaton's arm, was pulled out. Two smaller doors in the figure's body were also opened, revealing a lit candle held within the openings. This was repeated at the end of the game if the spectators wanted. The chest appeared to be divided into two unequal sections, the right being narrower and taking up one third of the total space. It was filled with small wheels, cylinders, and levers. The left section contained wheels, spring barrels, and two horizontally placed quadrants. After closing the doors and the drawer, the exhibitor wound the mechanism with a key inserted into a small opening on the side of the chest, placed a cushion under the figure's arm, and then invited anyone in the room to play a game against it. It was noted that the automaton always played with the white pieces and made the first move. Due to a peculiar mistake by the inventor, the figure used its left hand to move the pieces. This error couldn’t be fixed after it was discovered. The hands and fingers opened, grasped a piece, and moved it to the right square. When capturing a piece, the same motion was used, but the arm took the piece off the board before placing its own piece on the empty square. While and after its opponent made a move, the figure paused for a moment, as if considering its own. It nodded to indicate when it put the king in check. While the arm was moving, a soft sound of clockwork winding down could be heard. The exhibitor periodically wound the mechanism, but otherwise just walked around the room. Since the automaton both lost and won — it rarely lost during Kempelen’s time — and each game was different from the previous ones, it follows that these effects couldn't be solely the result of mechanics. Many theories have been suggested about how the figure communicated with the intelligence directing it. A reasonable explanation was provided in 1821 in a pamphlet titled “An Attempt to Analyze the Automaton Chess Player.” This brochure demonstrated that despite the apparent visibility of the interior of the chest and the figure, there was still enough space left unopened to hide a person of average size behind a false back in the narrowest section. This is illustrated in the accompanying diagrams.

521 The basis for this elucidation of what was a profound mystery to the many was as follows:

521 The foundation for this explanation of what was a deep mystery to many was as follows:

The machinery was ostentatiously displayed when at rest; but carefully secluded from view while in motion. By this means the spectator could not form any judgment as to whether the machinery was in any way connected with the automaton. There never was any variation in the method of opening the several doors. When winding up the clockwork, the key always made a certain number of revolutions, whether the motions of the figure, owing to the exigencies of the game, were more varied or protracted than usual. It was noticed that sixty-three moves were at one time made without the machinery being wound up, while at another time the machinery was wound up with the intervention of a single move. Whether or not the action of the automaton was produced by the agency of a concealed person I do not care to pronounce, but the illustration given proves clearly, I think, that it might have been so produced. Mons. Kempelen is said to have invented a still more extraordinary exhibition of his great mechanical genius—namely, a speaking automaton. How this figure became possessed of a voice, I will show in another chapter.

The machinery was on full display when it was idle, but kept out of sight while in operation. This way, the audience couldn't tell if the machinery was connected to the automaton in any way. The method of opening the various doors never changed. When winding up the clockwork, the key always turned a set number of times, regardless of whether the automaton's movements were more varied or longer than usual due to the demands of the game. It was observed that sixty-three moves were made at one point without winding up the machinery, while at another time, it was wound with just a single move. I'm not going to say whether the automaton's actions were controlled by someone hidden; however, the example given clearly suggests that it could have been. Mr. Kempelen is said to have created an even more remarkable display of his mechanical talent—a talking automaton. I'll explain how this figure acquired its voice in another chapter.


522

522

CHAPTER II.
Kempelen.

Kempelen’s Speaking Machine has been thus described. It was of simple structure, and consisted only of five parts—viz., the reed, representing the human glottis; an air-chest, with internal valves; the bellows or lungs; a mouth with its appurtenances, and nostrils formed to resemble those of the human body. The reed was not cylindrical, but formed to imitate the reed of a bagpipe drone. The hollow portion, however, was square, and the tongue of the reed, which vibrated, consisted of a thin ivory slip resting upon it horizontally. This hollow tube was inserted into the chest, and the discharge of air occasioning a vibration of the ivory, the requisite sound was produced. To soften its vibration, the part supporting the slip was covered with leather, and a movable spring shifting along the upper side of the slip brought the sound of the reed to the proper pitch. The sound was more acute as the spring was moved forward to the outer extremity, because the vibrations then became quicker, and when shifted farther from the anterior extremity, the sound became more grave, as the vibrations were then slower. A slight curvature of the ivory slip arose from the pressure of the spring, which was enough for the object desired. One end of the air-chest, which was of an oblong figure, received this voice-pipe, containing the reed; and into the opposite end was inserted the mouth of the bellows. Both the apertures were guarded by leather, to prevent unnecessary waste of air: two smaller air-chests were then put into it, each having a valve above closed by the pressure of a spring, and each having a round aperture adapted to receive through the side of the large air-chest a tin funnel, and a round wooden tube for producing hissing523 sounds—as, s, z, sch, j. The voice-pipe was placed in the large air-chest, so as to be between the smaller air-chests. When all these parts were fitted to the air-chest, the operation of one lever raising the valve of the first smaller chest connected with the tin funnel produced the sound s; while the operation of another, raising the valve of the second smaller chest connected with the wooden tube, produced the sound of sch. But it is proper further to explain that instead of being a simple tunnel, it was, in fact, a tin box, with a square hole in the outer end, nearly covered by a slip of pasteboard; and the wooden tube was merely the mouth-piece of a common flute, closed at the lower extremity, and with the air-hole modified and contracted: the letter r was produced by the rapid vibration of the ivory slip, owing to a strong discharge of air.

Kempelen’s Speaking Machine has been described like this. It had a simple design and was made up of just five parts: the reed, which acted like the human vocal cords; an air chamber with internal valves; bellows that functioned like lungs; a mouth with its attachments; and nostrils shaped to look like those of a human. The reed wasn’t cylindrical but shaped like the reed of a bagpipe. The hollow part was square, and the vibrating tongue of the reed was a thin piece of ivory resting horizontally on it. This hollow tube was placed in the chest, and when air was pushed through, it caused the ivory to vibrate, creating sound. To soften the vibration, the part holding the slip was covered with leather, and a movable spring along the top of the slip adjusted the sound pitch. The tone became higher when the spring was moved to the outer edge because it made the vibrations quicker, while moving it back lowered the sound by slowing down the vibrations. A slight curve in the ivory slip from the spring's pressure was enough for the intended purpose. One end of the air chamber, which was rectangular, received the voice pipe containing the reed, while the opposite end connected to the bellows. Both openings were covered with leather to prevent air loss. Two smaller air chambers were placed inside, each with a spring-loaded valve and a round opening for a tin funnel on the side of the large air chamber, along with a round wooden tube for creating hissing sounds like s, z, sch, j. The voice pipe was positioned in the large air chamber, situated between the smaller chambers. When these parts were put together, operating one lever that raised the valve of the first smaller chamber connected to the tin funnel created the sound s; while operating another that raised the valve of the second chamber connected to the wooden tube produced the sound sch. It’s also important to clarify that instead of being a simple tunnel, it was actually a tin box with a square hole at one end, mostly covered by a piece of cardboard; and the wooden tube was just the mouthpiece of a standard flute, closed at the bottom with the air hole modified and narrowed. The letter r was produced by the rapid vibration of the ivory slip due to a strong burst of air.

Mons. Kempelen’s bellows, which were formed to supply the place of lungs, had no peculiarities. He found that his machine required six times the quantity of air used by a man in speaking. The muzzle, as I have observed, was inserted into the large air-chest, and the air which it discharged was also received by the small air-chest. With regard to the mouth, it consisted of a funnel, or rather bell-shaped piece of elastic gum, applied to the air-chest, and so adapted that the sound of the reed issued from it. Elastic gum was selected for this purpose as more nearly approaching to the natural softness and flexibility of the human organs. Independent of its communications with the reed producing the sound required, a tin tube connected it with the air-chest, by means of which it might be kept constantly full of air. This Mons. Kempelen considered a very essential, and even an indispensable part of the machine. Besides these there were small additional bellows, for the purpose of aiding the production of such sounds as p, k, t, which needed a greater emission of air. The nose consisted of two tin tubes, communicating with the mouth. When the mouth-piece was closed, and both tubes remained open, a perfect m was heard; when one was closed, but the other open, n was sounded. By the combined means of all these contrivances Mons. Kempelen could make his figure repeat such sentences as Vous étes mon ami, Je vous aime, etc. Upon Kempelen’s machinery all succeeding talking figures have been based.

Mons. Kempelen’s bellows, designed to act like lungs, were fairly standard. He determined that his machine needed six times the amount of air a person uses when speaking. The muzzle, as I mentioned, connected to the large air chamber, and the air it released also flowed into the small air chamber. As for the mouth, it was made of a funnel, or rather a bell-shaped piece of elastic rubber, attached to the air chamber in a way that allowed the sound from the reed to come out. Elastic rubber was chosen for this because it closely mimicked the natural softness and flexibility of human organs. Besides its link to the reed that created the necessary sound, a tin tube connected the mouth to the air chamber, ensuring it was always filled with air. Mons. Kempelen considered this connection to be a crucial, even indispensable part of the machine. Additionally, there were smaller bellows to help produce sounds like p, k, and t, which required more airflow. The nose consisted of two tin tubes leading into the mouth. When the mouthpiece was closed and both tubes were open, a perfect m sound was produced; if one tube was closed and the other open, it created an n sound. With all these features combined, Mons. Kempelen could make his figure repeat phrases like Vous étes mon ami, Je vous aime, etc. All subsequent talking figures have been based on Kempelen’s machinery.

The most noted person who succeeded Kempelen in the art of magical524 automata was Robert Houdin. He not only improved upon the production of his predecessors, but applied the basis of their materials to works comparatively original and unique. His automata certainly place him in the highest rank of modern illusionists, and in giving in detail the principal of his inventions, I shall at the same time be affording a solution of the working of many surprising and ingenious automatic tricks, which have been exhibited in recent days. One of his best productions was a Talking Figure, similar, but in many respects far superior, to that of Kempelen, the mechanism of which I have described above.

The most recognized person who followed Kempelen in the field of magical automata was Robert Houdin. He not only improved on the creations of his predecessors but also took the foundation of their materials to create works that were comparatively original and unique. His automata definitely rank him among the top modern illusionists, and while detailing the principles of his inventions, I will also be providing an explanation of how many surprising and clever automatic tricks, which have been showcased recently, work. One of his best creations was a Talking Figure, which was similar to Kempelen's but, in many ways, far superior—I've described the mechanism above.

It has been asserted that Houdin first turned his attention to the construction of automata through the following trivial circumstance:

It has been said that Houdin first focused on creating automata because of the following simple situation:

Being in company one day with a travelling showman, his assistance was asked to repair one of the figures the showman had accidentally broken. Having seen the performance of the figure, which was none other than the well-known Dancing Harlequin, he was struck with the marvellous and apparently magical effects which could be produced by the simplest laws of mechanism. He became so infatuated with the discovery the showman permitted him to make in the construction of the box and figure, that he, from that time, devoted all his thoughts and energies to the construction of automata.

One day, while hanging out with a traveling showman, he was asked to help fix one of the figures that the showman had accidentally broken. After seeing the performance of the figure, which was the famous Dancing Harlequin, he was amazed by the incredible and seemingly magical effects that could be created using the simplest mechanical principles. He became so obsessed with the insight the showman allowed him to gain in making the box and figure that from then on, he devoted all his thoughts and energy to building automata.

The magic harlequin is worth description, not only because it takes so prominent a place among mechanical figures, but more because, in disclosing its mechanism, I shall be explaining the construction of a whole class of automata, which have been constructed on the same principle. As will be seen by the illustration given above, a box was placed upon a table, and at word of command the box opened and a harlequin was discovered therein. At a sign from the conjurer the figure leaped from the box, and then, apparently without being attached in any way to the box, it performed a variety of movements, imitating the action of the human pantomimist. It further smoked a pipe or cigar, and blew a whistle.

The magic harlequin deserves a description, not just because it holds a significant place among mechanical figures, but also because, in explaining its mechanism, I will reveal the construction of an entire class of automata built on the same principle. As shown in the illustration above, a box was placed on a table, and at the magician's command, the box opened to reveal a harlequin inside. At a signal from the magician, the figure jumped out of the box and then, seemingly without any connection to the box, performed a variety of movements, mimicking the actions of a human mime. It even smoked a pipe or cigar and blew a whistle.

Such was the figure which opened the eyes of Houdin to the marvels525 which the application of the simple laws of mechanics might produce; and his great mechanical genius enabled him to succeed even better than he hoped when first he began his investigations of the automata that had already been exhibited.

Such was the figure that opened Houdin's eyes to the wonders525 that could be created by applying the simple laws of mechanics; and his remarkable mechanical talent allowed him to achieve even more success than he initially anticipated when he began his exploration of the automata that had already been displayed.

The mechanism of the Magic Harlequin is extremely simple; in fact, it will be found that the most marvellous and astounding effects are produced by the simplest contrivances. The box containing the figure was grooved in the back in nine places, each groove terminating in a hole pierced through the bottom of the box. Corresponding exactly with these holes were nine holes in the table upon which the figure performed. Below these holes at the back of the table, which was always placed close up to the curtains at the back of the stage, and behind which the person who manœuvred the figure was concealed, were nine spring pistons worked by nine different strings passing over pulleys, each of which performed a different function, and were attached to that point in the figure which each was designed to move.

The mechanism of the Magic Harlequin is really straightforward; actually, you'll find that the most amazing and surprising effects come from the simplest devices. The box holding the figure had nine grooves in the back, with each groove ending in a hole drilled through the bottom of the box. Exactly matching these holes, there were nine holes in the table where the figure performed. Underneath these holes at the back of the table, which was always positioned right up against the curtains at the back of the stage, and behind which the person controlling the figure was hidden, were nine spring pistons activated by nine different strings that went over pulleys. Each string had a specific function and was connected to the part of the figure it was meant to move.

The figure of the harlequin, as the reader will perceive by the annexed illustration, was attached by means of two rods to a revolving bar fixed from side to side of the box, and so near the front that it was concealed from the eyes of the audience. When the harlequin was out of the box, the rods connecting it with the bar were hidden by the drapery of the figure. The first string worked the opening and shutting of the lid of the box. The second string, passing under a pulley immediately beneath the bar, passed over the shoulders of the figure, and by a sharp movement turned the bar and jerked the figure—which was reversed when in the box—out on to the table, the figure, of course, maintaining a standing posture, and being held up by means of the rods attached to the revolving bar. The shoulders were made to526 revolve on the two rods, so that the jerking motion would be easily produced. The third string passed through the body, and was attached to the legs, and produced a motion to imitate the stretching of the legs, known as the “splits.” Another string closed the legs and simultaneously turned the head right and left. Another string lifted the legs and imitated the movements of a dance. Another string turned the figure back again into the box. In the corner of the box was a bellows, through the medium of which, and by means of a tube passing through the arm, and ending in the mouth, the concealed person, by manipulating the nine pistons which worked the bellows, was enabled to produce the effects of smoking and whistling.

The harlequin figure, as you can see in the attached illustration, was connected by two rods to a rotating bar fixed across the width of the box, positioned close to the front so it was hidden from the audience's view. When the harlequin was out of the box, the rods linking it to the bar were covered by the figure's drapery. The first string operated the opening and closing of the box lid. The second string, which ran under a pulley right below the bar, went over the figure’s shoulders and, with a quick pull, turned the bar and yanked the figure—positioned backward when inside the box—out onto the table. The figure stayed upright, supported by the rods connected to the revolving bar. The shoulders rotated on the rods, allowing for an easy jerking motion. A third string went through the body and was attached to the legs, creating a movement that mimicked a leg stretch, known as the “splits.” Another string closed the legs and turned the head left and right simultaneously. A different string lifted the legs and imitated dancing movements. Another string turned the figure back into the box. In one corner of the box was a bellows that, through a tube running through the arm and ending at the mouth, allowed the hidden person to create smoking and whistling effects by manipulating the nine pistons that operated the bellows.

It is upon this system of mechanism that very many modern tricks have been based—notably, the great rope acrobatic figure of Theodin. In this case, what was thought by the audience to be a rope was really a tube made to imitate a rope, and the strings passed through this tube and worked from the side of the stage, the rope serving the same purpose as the bar stretched across the box in the harlequin automaton.

It is on this mechanical system that many modern tricks are based—especially the amazing rope acrobatic figure of Theodin. In this case, what the audience believed was a rope was actually a tube designed to look like a rope, with strings running through this tube and operated from the side of the stage, the rope serving the same function as the bar stretched across the box in the harlequin automaton.

Houdin was said to be the inventor of the well-known Magic Clock. This was a glass dial plate with hands, but with no visible works. This clever invention has within the last year or two been reproduced, and exhibited in many jewelers’ windows. His chief automatic figures, besides the talking one I have already mentioned, were two performing French Clowns and the Cook of the Palais Royal. The clowns were shown one sitting on a chair, and the other standing beside it. At the request of the exhibitor, the standing clown raised the chair, with its occupant, above his head, while the latter went through a number of acrobatic performances that would have done honor to a living gymnast.

Houdin was known to be the inventor of the famous Magic Clock. This was a glass dial with hands but no visible mechanism. This clever invention has been reproduced and displayed in many jewelers’ windows over the last year or two. His main automatic figures, aside from the talking one I already mentioned, were two French clowns performing and the Cook of the Palais Royal. The clowns were shown with one sitting on a chair and the other standing beside it. At the request of the exhibitor, the standing clown lifted the chair, along with its occupant, above his head while the seated clown performed a series of acrobatic acts that would impress any gymnast.

These capital figures were worked precisely on the same system as the Magic Harlequin, the strings, pistons, and machinery being necessarily of stronger make, and worked from beneath, instead of behind the stage. This was considered by the public, and Houdin himself looked upon it, as his chef d’œuvre, and a masterpiece in automatic figures it certainly was.

These life-sized figures were created using the same system as the Magic Harlequin, with the strings, pistons, and machinery being made from stronger materials and operated from underneath instead of behind the stage. This was viewed by the public, and Houdin himself considered it his chef d’œuvre, and it certainly was a masterpiece in automatic figures.

The Cook of the Palais Royal was a very amusing piece of mechanical application. It consisted of a faithful representation of a detached527 villa. Houdin handed round a list of wines and liquors, requesting his audience to select which they liked best on the bill of fare. When one was mentioned, a figure of a young maid emerged from the doorway, descended the steps, and brought forward on a tray a glass of the desired wine. When the person at whose order the wine was brought removed the glass from the tray, the figure turned and glided back into the house, again emerging with another glass of wine, and so on until the list was exhausted or the bibulous propensities of the audience were fully satisfied.

The Cook of the Palais Royal was a really entertaining piece of machinery. It featured a detailed model of a detached villa. Houdin distributed a list of wines and spirits, asking his audience to choose their favorites from the menu. When someone made a selection, a young maid figure would appear from the doorway, come down the steps, and present a glass of the chosen wine on a tray. Once the person who ordered the wine took the glass from the tray, the figure would turn and glide back inside, only to emerge again with another glass of wine, and this continued until the list was finished or the audience had their fill.

The same basis of machinery used in the Magic Harlequin was also employed in the Cook of the Palais Royal, each piston working a tap containing one kind of wine. The operator at the back of the stage could hear the wine asked for, and thus knew which string to pull, and which tap to open, when the figure, which was made to pass under every tap, re-entered the house.

The same machinery used in the Magic Harlequin was also used in the Cook of the Palais Royal, with each piston controlling a tap that dispensed a specific type of wine. The operator at the back of the stage could hear the wine order and knew which string to pull and which tap to open when the figure, designed to pass under each tap, came back into the house.

Houdin’s Orange Tree was a capital trick, and, although exceedingly simple in its mechanism, produced the most startling effects. Houdin borrowed a handkerchief, which he burnt, or rather which he led the audience to think he burnt, at the sacrifice of a duplicate, in front of a plant placed in a box upon a table, which, at word of command, gradually began to bloom. White blossoms were seen to emerge from four or five different shoots. These disappeared, giving place to oranges, which Houdin removed from the tree and distributed among his audience, with the exception of one, which he left on. This one opened, and out from it sprang two butterflies, and in the middle of the orange was found the burnt handkerchief.

Houdin's Orange Tree was a fantastic trick that, despite being really simple in how it worked, created the most amazing effects. Houdin borrowed a handkerchief, which he either burned or made the audience believe he was burning, sacrificing a duplicate in front of a plant placed in a box on a table that, at his command, slowly started to bloom. White flowers began to appear from four or five different branches. These vanished, making way for oranges, which Houdin picked from the tree and passed around to the audience, keeping one for himself. This one opened up, and from it flew out two butterflies, while the burnt handkerchief was discovered inside the orange.

In this trick also the spring pistons of the Magic Harlequin were used. The real oranges were fixed on pins and hidden by the leaves. A string or wire opened the leaves, gradually disclosing the oranges, which appeared at a distance to grow in size as the leaves spread wider. Another set of wires, worked by another string, pushed the blossoms up fine tubes, and as the paper emerged from the tube the separate parts spread out, giving the appearance of growing blossoms. As soon as the two halves of the sham orange in the centre were released, the butterflies, attached by wires to the stalk, and fixed upon delicate spiral springs, sprang out of their own accord, and presented the appearance of fluttering on the528 wing. The bona fide handkerchief was pushed into the halves of the orange through a hole in the back while Houdin was taking off the real oranges. A rose-tree, similar in its effects, was also exhibited by Houdin.

In this trick, the spring pistons of the Magic Harlequin were also used. Real oranges were attached to pins and concealed by leaves. A string or wire opened the leaves, gradually revealing the oranges, which appeared to grow in size as the leaves spread wider. Another set of wires, operated by a different string, pushed the blossoms up fine tubes, and as the paper came out of the tube, the separate parts fanned out, creating the illusion of blossoms blooming. Once the two halves of the fake orange in the center were released, the butterflies, linked by wires to the stem and mounted on delicate spiral springs, sprang out on their own, creating the illusion of fluttering on the528 wing. The bona fide handkerchief was inserted into the halves of the orange through a hole in the back while Houdin removed the real oranges. Houdin also showcased a rose tree that produced similar effects.

This clever mechanician was, I believe, the inventor of the Electric Bell, or, to be more precise, he produced it as a magical trick, long before the electric bell came into use.

This clever mechanic was, I believe, the inventor of the electric bell, or to be more precise, he created it as a magic trick long before the electric bell became common.

The Magic Drum, swung from the ceiling by means of wires looking like cords, of which Houdin was the first exhibitor, was constructed on precisely the same principles as the modern continuous electric bell, only worked with a much stronger battery and a more powerfully made electro-magnet.

The Magic Drum, hanging from the ceiling by wires that resembled cords, which Houdin was the first to showcase, was built on exactly the same principles as today's continuous electric bell, but operated with a much stronger battery and a more powerful electro-magnet.

Mr. Houdin was the first person to introduce the famous “Suspension in the Air” trick, centuries ago made so famous by the Fakir of Oolu, performed by the Hindoos. The lady selected for the trick is generally slight in figure. Previous to coming on the stage she binds close to her body a framework specially made to fit her. This frame consists of an iron bar, with front and back plate fitting on the hip by means of straps fastened round the body. The iron bar reaches as far as the armpit, where it is joined to another bar reaching from the armpit to the elbow by a movable circular plate indented in three places. At the end of the arm bar and immediately below the elbow is a pin of iron, which is made to fit into the hollow iron bar upon which the exhibitor rests the lady. At the top of the body bar is a spring stop, made to glide into the indentations of the movable circular hinge, and thus keep the whole framework in the position it is placed. The annexed illustration will more clearly show this single piece of machinery.

Mr. Houdin was the first person to introduce the famous “Suspension in the Air” trick, which was made famous centuries ago by the Fakir of Oolu, performed by the Hindoos. The lady chosen for the trick is usually petite. Before coming on stage, she secures a specially designed framework to her body. This frame consists of an iron bar, with front and back plates fitting around her hips using straps fastened around her body. The iron bar extends to the armpit, where it connects to another bar that goes from the armpit to the elbow through a movable circular plate that has three indentations. At the end of the arm bar, just below the elbow, is an iron pin intended to fit into the hollow iron bar that supports the lady. At the top of the body bar is a spring stop designed to glide into the notches of the movable circular hinge, keeping the entire framework in place. The attached illustration will provide a clearer view of this mechanism.

529 A is the iron bar, and B the hip plate. D is a spring stop fitting into the teeth of the joint F. F is the arm bar, and G is the pin fitting into the hollow tube H, which is fixed into a socket in the platform. The frame is fastened to the body by means of the leather straps K. When the body is raised to the position of L, the spring stop D slips into the middle indentation, and thus keeps the frame and the lady borne upon the frame in that position. When the body is raised to a horizontal position, M, the spring stop catches in the first indentation, and keeps the body perfectly straight. In commencing the trick the performer rests the figure upon two poles and then knocks one away. This is done to make the audience believe that the two poles are similar. I need scarcely say that the putting of the lady into a mesmeric trance is only a piece of acting; it, however, adds very much to the effect of the trick, as the reader no doubt has thought up till now. It will be remembered, notably in the case of the Fakir of Oolu, that sometimes when the trick was performed both poles were taken away. What, then, you will ask, becomes of all my machinery? The two poles were seemingly taken away. The poles used consisted of brass bars. The limelight beamed upon the figure of the sleeping lady, while the rest of the stage was comparatively dark. Thus, when the conjuror apparently took away the only support the figure had, the audience did not and could not perceive that he really took away the brass case of the second pole, leaving another, the actual pole on which the framework was fixed, and which was of the same color as the drapery of the stage. It was for the purpose of deceiving the eyes of the audience that the pole was encased in a brass shell in the first instance. He refixed the case before the stage was relit, and the lady woke up from her sham mesmeric trance.

529 A is the iron bar, and B is the hip plate. D is a spring stop that fits into the teeth of the joint F. F is the arm bar, and G is the pin that fits into the hollow tube H, which is attached to a socket in the platform. The frame is secured to the body with leather straps K. When the body is lifted to position L, the spring stop D slides into the middle indentation, keeping the frame and the lady on it in that position. When the body is brought to a horizontal position, M, the spring stop locks into the first indentation, keeping the body perfectly straight. To start the trick, the performer supports the figure on two poles and then removes one. This is done to make the audience think the two poles are identical. I hardly need to mention that putting the lady into a mesmeric trance is just acting; it greatly enhances the trick’s effect, as you have likely realized by now. It’s worth noting, especially with the Fakir of Oolu, that sometimes when the trick was performed, both poles were removed. So, you might wonder, what happens to all my equipment? The two poles were seemingly taken away. The poles used were made of brass. The spotlight shone on the figure of the sleeping lady while the rest of the stage remained relatively dark. Therefore, when the conjuror apparently removed the only support for the figure, the audience didn’t and couldn’t see that he actually took away the brass case of the second pole, leaving the real pole, which was the actual support for the framework, and was the same color as the stage drapery. The brass shell was used to trick the audience’s eyes in the first place. He reattached the case before the stage lights came back on, and the lady awakened from her fake mesmeric trance.


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CHAPTER III.
Theodin.

Contemporary with Houdin were Theodin, Robin, Professor Anderson, and a whole host of minor stars, at whom I shall just take a passing glance, and then I will enter at once into the subject of modern automata, second sight or clairvoyance, optical illusions, and the other branches of the art of magic and conjuring. The principal production of Mons. Theodin was the rope acrobat, which I have fully explained in a preceding chapter. Mons. Robin also exhibited a very ingenious and interesting piece of automata, well known as the Magic Windmill. Upon a table a large-sized windmill was placed. The exhibitor tapped at the door, when the miller’s head was seen at the window for a moment, as if he desired to know who was knocking, and then a few seconds after the door opened, and the miller appeared in full person, candle in hand and pipe in mouth.

Current with Houdin were Theodin, Robin, Professor Anderson, and a whole bunch of minor stars, whom I’ll just briefly mention before diving into modern automata, second sight or clairvoyance, optical illusions, and other aspects of magic and conjuring. The main act of Mons. Theodin was the rope acrobat, which I’ve explained in an earlier chapter. Monsignor Robin also showcased a very clever and fascinating piece of automata, known as the Magic Windmill. On a table was a large windmill. The performer tapped at the door, and for a moment, the miller’s head appeared at the window, as if he wanted to see who was knocking, and then a few seconds later, the door opened, and the miller came out, candle in hand and pipe in mouth.

Mons. Robin desired the miller to kindly grind a small sack of corn which he gave him; the miller nodded assent, took the corn and entered the mill, the door closing upon him. Shortly afterward the sails of the mill went gaily round, and after a brief interval the miller opened his door and handed Mons. Robin the sack back, with the ground bran and corn mixed. This he was desired to separate, when he again entered the mill, and after a brief interval returned with the task duly performed. The door of the mill being closed, and the miller supposed to have retired to bed after his labors, Mons. Robin selected five cards, or, rather, made his audience believe they selected them; he tore them up, and loaded a pistol with the pieces. He then fired at the windmill, when lo! presto! one of the torn cards was perceived upon each sail of the mill, and one upon the door! But531 this was not all. The firing of the pistol set the mill on fire, and the blaze was seen emerging from the top. I need scarcely say that Mons. Robin’s Windmill was highly successful. The whole of the effects obtained by this clever conjuror from this one piece of automata was caused by precisely the same means as those of the magic Harlequin and the Cook of the Palais Royal. The same system of levers, valves, and pulleys was employed, and the whole was worked by a person off the stage.

Mons. Robin asked the miller to kindly grind a small sack of corn that he gave him; the miller nodded in agreement, took the corn, and went into the mill, the door closing behind him. Shortly after, the sails of the mill began to turn cheerfully, and after a brief moment, the miller opened the door and handed Mons. Robin the sack back, containing a mix of ground bran and corn. He was asked to separate them, and after going back into the mill, he returned after a short while with the job completed. With the mill door closed and the miller presumed to be off to bed after his work, Mons. Robin picked five cards, or rather, made his audience think they picked them; he tore them up and loaded a pistol with the pieces. He then fired at the windmill, and suddenly, one of the torn cards appeared on each sail of the mill, and one on the door! But this wasn't all. The gunshot set the mill on fire, and flames were seen shooting out from the top. I hardly need to say that Mons. Robin's Windmill was a big hit. All the effects obtained by this clever magician from this single piece of automation were created using exactly the same methods as those of the magic Harlequin and the Cook of the Palais Royal. The same system of levers, valves, and pulleys was used, and everything was operated by someone offstage.

The only automaton of Professor Anderson was, compared with that of his predecessors, extremely weak, and scarcely deserving of notice. It consisted of an old man, who nodded, shook his head, and raised his arm to ring a bell. The reader of these articles will know exactly how this was done. The head was worked beneath the stage; one string causing the head to nod, another to turn from side to side, and a third raising its arm and letting its hand fall upon a bell. By these three simple movements it answered various questions put to it.

The only automaton created by Professor Anderson was, compared to those of his predecessors, extremely weak and hardly worth mentioning. It was an old man who nodded, shook his head, and raised his arm to ring a bell. Those reading these articles will know exactly how this worked. The head was operated from below the stage; one string made the head nod, another turned it from side to side, and a third raised the arm and let the hand fall onto a bell. With these three simple movements, it responded to various questions asked of it.

Before proceeding further, I may as well state that I have necessarily passed by a large number of automata which were exhibited by numerous other professors of the “black art” whom I have not even named. This was absolutely unavoidable, inasmuch as the space and time that would be required to give a full history of automatic conjuring is not at my disposal. But I have endeavored to give the principal wonders of mechanical art as applied to conjuring, those which I have omitted to mention being weak imitations of the great masterpieces, and therefore of no note. But, following up the sequence of events in the history of conjuring, I must make mention of Colonel Stodare’s Living Head, especially as this will open up quite a new subject. Stodare placed upon a table, supported by legs, and beneath which the audience apparently saw the back of the stage, an empty box with folding doors in front. Having closed the doors of the box for a few minutes, he reopened them, when a living head, dressed to represent the head of a sphinx, was seen within the box. To all appearance there could not possibly be any connection of that head with a body. There was the head in a box of such a size as only to be capable of admitting a head. The audience saw that the body could not be placed beneath the table, for they perceived the532 curtains at the back of the stage, between the legs, while the table itself was at some distance from the curtains at the back, and the space between could plainly be seen. The audience, however, could not see through the legs of the table, but what they saw was a reflection of the sides of the stage, which were made to correspond exactly with the back. This was effected by means of two plate-glass mirrors fixed so as to closely fit into the space between the three legs facing the audience. The floor was covered with green baize, which was reflected in the glasses, and seemed to be a continuation of the floor. The living body belonging to the animate head was in reality beneath the table, concealed from view by the mirrors. The annexed illustration will show the position of the body during the performance.

Before going further, I should mention that I've skipped over many automata showcased by various other "black art" professors I haven't even named. This was completely unavoidable since I don't have enough space or time to provide a full history of automatic conjuring. However, I’ve tried to highlight the main wonders of mechanical art as related to conjuring, noting that those I haven't mentioned are just poor imitations of the great masterpieces and aren’t worth discussing. Now, to continue the timeline in the history of conjuring, I need to talk about Colonel Stodare’s Living Head, especially since it introduces a whole new topic. Stodare placed an empty box with folding doors on a table, which had legs, and below the table, the audience seemed to see the back of the stage. After closing the doors for a few minutes, he opened them to reveal a living head, dressed to look like a sphinx, inside the box. It appeared that there could be no connection between that head and a body. The head was in a box too small to hold a body. The audience understood that the body couldn’t be hidden beneath the table because they could see the curtains at the back of the stage between the table’s legs, and the table itself was positioned some distance from those curtains, making the space clearly visible. However, the audience couldn’t see through the legs of the table; instead, they saw a reflection of the sides of the stage, perfectly matching the back. This was achieved through two plate-glass mirrors that were fitted closely into the space between the three legs facing the audience. The floor was covered with green baize, which was reflected in the mirrors, creating the illusion of a continuous floor. The living body belonging to the animated head was actually beneath the table, hidden from view by the mirrors. The accompanying illustration will show the position of the body during the performance.

In order that the reader may more clearly understand how this great optical illusion was produced, I will give a full explanation of an improvement upon this apparently wonderful phenomenon—the Fatima illusion—when the reader will more clearly comprehend the solution of what must have hitherto been to him or her a profound mystery. But before doing so I may mention that simultaneously with the appearance of Colonel Stodare’s Talking Head there was produced by Messrs. Pepper and Tobin an optical illusion founded upon precisely the same mechanical arrangement. It was called “Proteus; or, We’re here and not here.” A cabinet 3 ft. 6 in. wide by 6 ft. high, standing upon four small feet so that the audience could see beneath it, was brought upon the stage. It was then opened, and inside was seen a pillar in the centre from floor to top, on the point of which was hung a lamp. The cabinet was seen to be empty. A person entered it, closing the door after him. In a few seconds, when the door was reopened, it was found to be empty. This was repeated with three different persons.533 A fourth went in, and on the door being opened the four persons were seen inside, and emerged from the cabinet. Of course, where these men concealed themselves was the cause of a great deal of surmise and conjecture; but the reader who has seen this trick, after I have explained the mystery, will marvel at the ease with which he was deceived and hoodwinked.

To help the reader better understand how this amazing optical illusion was created, I will provide a complete explanation of an enhancement to this seemingly incredible phenomenon—the Fatima illusion—when the reader will grasp the solution to what must have previously seemed like a deep mystery. However, I should mention that at the same time Colonel Stodare’s Talking Head appeared, Messrs. Pepper and Tobin produced an optical illusion based on exactly the same mechanical setup. It was named "Proteus."; or, We’re here and not here. A cabinet measuring 3 ft. 6 in. wide by 6 ft. high, resting on four small feet so the audience could see underneath it, was brought onto the stage. It was opened to reveal a pillar in the center from floor to ceiling, with a lamp hanging from the top. The cabinet appeared empty. A person entered, closing the door behind them. After a few seconds, when the door was reopened, it was empty. This was repeated with three different people. 533 When a fourth person entered, upon opening the door, all four individuals were seen inside and emerged from the cabinet. Naturally, where these men hid sparked a lot of speculation and guesses; but the reader who has witnessed this trick, after I unveil the mystery, will be amazed at how easily they were deceived and tricked.

From the preceding ground plan of the cabinet, it will at once be seen by the simple laws of optics how our very eyes may be made to cheat the other senses: A B, C D, is the floor plan of the cabinet. A B, B D, D C, and C A, representing the four sides. E is the pillar from floor to roof. Attached to the sides A C and B D, are two plate-glass sides fitting exactly, so as to form two sides to the cabinet, A E, B E, terminating in the pillar E. These plate glasses are movable on hinges in the direction indicated by the arrows, and could be moved close to the sides of the cabinet. The backs of the plate-glass doors are painted or papered to resemble exactly the sides of the cabinet, so that when closed the plate-glass sides appear to be bona fide sides of the cabinet. Thus, when a man stepped into the cabinet he merely opened the plate-glass sides, and stood behind them when the cabinet was opened. The glass reflecting the sides of the cabinet, which were exactly like the back, made it appear that the box was empty, the lamp being so placed that it was not reflected by the glass sides. From this it will be seen that as many persons as the space inclosed by the folding glass sides could hold, might easily enter the cabinet, and yet not seem to be in it.

From the layout of the cabinet shown above, it's clear how our eyes can trick our other senses due to basic optical principles: A B, C D outlines the floor plan of the cabinet. A B, B D, D C, and C A represent the four sides. E is the pillar that goes from the floor to the ceiling. Attached to the sides A C and B D are two plate-glass panels that fit perfectly, forming two sides of the cabinet, A E, B E, ending at the pillar E. These glass panels are hinged and can be moved in the direction indicated by the arrows, allowing them to close tightly against the sides of the cabinet. The backs of the glass doors are painted or covered to match the cabinet's sides exactly, so that when closed, the glass sides seem to be genuine parts of the cabinet. Thus, when someone enters the cabinet, they simply open the glass sides and stand behind them when the cabinet is opened. The glass reflects the sides of the cabinet, which look just like the back, creating the illusion that the box is empty, as the lamp is positioned so it isn’t reflected by the glass sides. From this, it’s clear that as many people as can fit within the space formed by the folding glass sides could easily enter the cabinet while not appearing to be inside it.

This and the Living Head of Stodare were such good optical illusions, and so safe for the exhibitor to work upon, that succeeding conjurors have improved upon the trick, and produced one of the prettiest and most marvellous effects, that of a lady being seen on the534 table, without any lower limbs whatever, and yet able to talk and sing. No doubt many of my readers will remember to have seen Fatima when exhibited some little time ago in Lime Street, Liverpool. A description of this optical illusion, as seen by the public, will be scarcely necessary.

This and the Living Head of Stodare were such impressive optical illusions that were safe for the performer to use, that later magicians improved the trick and created one of the most beautiful and amazing effects: a lady appearing on the534 table, with no lower limbs, yet still able to talk and sing. I'm sure many of my readers remember seeing Fatima when she was showcased a while back on Lime Street, Liverpool. A description of this optical illusion, as experienced by the audience, will hardly be needed.

It will be remembered that to all appearance a half body was resting upon a small table standing on legs, which again rested upon a larger table likewise upon four legs, and that the space beneath the table was seen. In point of fact, the space beneath the table was not seen, for the remaining portion of the visible body actually stood in the space beneath the table. The table was really upon three legs placed at right angles. Between the middle and two other legs were two plate-glass mirrors, fitted closely to the legs and the top of the table. The pattern of the carpet was always of a square character, and the table was so placed that the reflection in the glass formed a continuation of the pattern, thus giving an appearance of space and a continuity of surroundings. The fourth leg of the table was produced by a very simple contrivance. A single leg, carved similarly to the legs of the table, was concealed behind each of the small screens which bore a lamp, and on each leg was a placard bearing the letters composing the name of Fatima, but written thus—AMITAF, so that, as seen in the glass, they appeared FATIMA. These legs were so placed that they threw their reflections in such a way as to continue and form one leg, the fourth leg of the table. The ground plan, as given here, will at once show the position of the table and the separate legs.

It will be noted that, from the outside, a half body was resting on a small table with legs, which in turn was on a bigger table, also with four legs, and that the space underneath the table was visible. However, the space under the table was not actually visible, because the rest of the body was standing in that space. The table was truly balanced on three legs positioned at right angles. Between the middle leg and the two others were two plate-glass mirrors, closely fitted to the legs and tabletop. The carpet always had a square pattern, and the table was arranged so that the reflection in the glass continued the pattern, creating an illusion of space and continuity in the surroundings. The fourth leg of the table was made with a simple mechanism. A single leg, carved to match the table's legs, was hidden behind each small screen that held a lamp, and each leg had a sign displaying the letters of the name Fatima, but written as AMITAF, so that in the glass, they appeared as FATIMA. These legs were positioned to reflect in a way that made it look like they formed one leg, which was the fourth leg of the table. The layout given here will immediately show the placement of the table and the individual legs.

A B C are the three legs of table, A B and B C being the two plates of glass. D D are the two screens concealing the single legs E E. According to the laws of reflection the legs E E will be reflected in the point F, and thus present the appearance of four legs. Upon each of the legs is placed the placard bearing the name written535 backward, and the reflection so deceives the spectator that he fully believes he is looking at a fourth substantial leg. Of course the upper table upon which the visible portion of the body appears to rest is likewise made of three legs with looking-glass in between. The invisible portion of the body is concealed by the looking-glasses. The pattern of the floorcloth being of a cubic shape, the reflection in the glasses seems to be a continuation of the pattern. It was by these simple combinations of mechanics and optical contrivances that thousands upon thousands of persons were mystified and completely cheated of their senses.

A B C are the three legs of the table, with A B and B C serving as the two glass plates. D D are the two screens hiding the single legs E E. According to the laws of reflection, the legs E E will be reflected at point F, creating the illusion of four legs. Each leg has a placard with the name written backward, and the reflection tricks the viewer into believing they are seeing a fourth real leg. Naturally, the upper table that the visible part of the body seems to rest on is also supported by three legs with mirrors in between. The hidden part of the body is concealed by the mirrors. The floorcloth has a cubic pattern, and the reflections in the mirrors appear to extend that pattern. It was through these simple combinations of mechanics and optical tricks that thousands of people were amazed and thoroughly deceived.


536

536

CHAPTER IV.
Automata: Psycho.

We now come to our own time, and to a description of the various automatic exhibitions of the present day. The most notable and successful, because the most original, exhibitors and inventors of automatic figures at the present day are Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke, now located at that old “home of mystery,” the Egyptian Hall, London.

We now turn to our current era and to a description of the different automatic exhibitions that exist today. The most remarkable and successful, as well as the most original, exhibitors and inventors of automatic figures right now are Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke, who are based at that historic "home of mystery," the Egyptian Hall in London.

Their first and, in my opinion, their best piece of mechanism was Psycho, the celebrated Whist Player, which they produced in 1865. A description of this interesting figure is scarcely needed. For years they contrived to keep the motive power and mechanical arrangements of this automaton an entire secret, while the public, the press, and the scientific world, saw, wondered, and were puzzled. Many and various were the solutions offered to account for the working of the Whist Player; but the secret of the sinews and muscles, so to speak, of Psycho mystified every one. So thoroughly successful was the figure that, as a natural consequence, mechanicians set about producing something similar.

Their first and, in my opinion, their best invention was Psycho, the famous Whist Player, which they created in 1865. A description of this intriguing figure is hardly necessary. For years, they managed to keep the power source and mechanical workings of this automaton completely secret, while the public, media, and scientific community observed, marveled, and were baffled. Many different explanations were suggested to explain how the Whist Player operated, but the true mechanism, so to speak, of Psycho left everyone puzzled. The figure was so successful that, naturally, other engineers started trying to create something similar.

One of these imitations was exhibited under the name of Hankey. This was but a poor and clumsy representation of the original. It consisted of a rudely-constructed figure of a man seated on an octagonally shaped box, in which a boy was concealed, who worked the arms and head. The exhibitor was compelled to indicate the cards to be played by certain signs and motions, which often led to complications and mistakes. This revival of Psycho eventually came into the possession of Signor Boz, and was exhibited in Liverpool and various other towns under the new name of Yorick.

One of these imitations was displayed under the name of Hankey. It was a poor and awkward version of the original. It featured a roughly made figure of a man sitting on an octagonal box, in which a boy was hidden, operating the arms and head. The exhibitor had to signal the cards to be played with certain signs and gestures, which often resulted in complications and errors. This revival of Psycho eventually ended up with Signor Boz and was showcased in Liverpool and several other towns under the new name of Yorick.

537 Professor Pepper likewise constructed an imitation of Psycho, under the nom de théâtre of Scynthia. This figure, though very ingeniously contrived, did not confessedly fulfil all the conditions of Psycho.

537 Professor Pepper also created a replica of Psycho, using the stage name Scynthia. This figure, while cleverly designed, didn't fully meet all the criteria of Psycho.

Cremer also introduced a whist player, which was a huge, complicated mass of wheels, levers, and elaborate mechanical contrivances, and necessitated a most careful supervision for a successful exhibition. It could never be relied on for a smooth and uninterrupted performance.

Cremer also introduced a whist player, which was a large, complex machine made up of wheels, levers, and intricate mechanical parts, requiring very careful oversight for a successful show. It could never be counted on for a seamless and continuous performance.

Fig. 321.

A French firm also constructed a whist player for Mr. Everett, and this eventually went to America. In this figure the boy was much better concealed than in the one I mentioned before.

A French company also built a whist player for Mr. Everett, which eventually made its way to America. In this figure, the boy was much better hidden than in the one I mentioned earlier.

One very ingenious solution of the construction of Psycho was offered in November, 1877. I partly reproduce it—not because it is a solution, but because it will enable the practical and ingenious reader to construct a figure something similar, although not at all equal, to the Whist Player of Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke.

One really clever solution for building Psycho appeared in November 1877. I’m partly sharing it—not because it’s the answer, but because it will help the practical and inventive reader create a figure somewhat like, though not quite the same as, the Whist Player from Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke.

In Figs. 321a and 321b (elevation and plan), the wheels E and M have each a train of clockwork left out for the sake of clearness, which would cause them to spin round if unchecked. M, however, has two pins, p p, which catch on a projection on the lever, N. E is a crown-wheel escapement—like that in a bottle roasting-jack—which turns A alternately to the left and right, thus causing the hand to traverse the thirteen cards. A little higher up on A will be seen a quadrant, B (see plan), near the edge of which are set thirteen little pins. The end of the538 lever, N, drops between any two of them, thus causing the hand to stop at any desired card. The lever being pivoted at c, it is obvious that by depressing the end, N, B will be set at liberty, and the hand will move along the cards; by slightly raising it this motion will be arrested; by raising it still more the pin, p, is released, and M commences to revolve, and by again depressing N this wheel will, in its turn, be stopped. Near the bottom of the apparatus is a bellows, O, which contains a spring tending to keep the lever, N, with which it is connected by a rod, X, in the position shown. This is connected with the tubular support, which may be connected by a tube through leg of stool, and another tube beneath stage, with an assistant behind the scenes. By compressing or exhausting air through this tube it is obvious that the lever, N, will be raised or depressed, and the clockwork set going accordingly. a is a crank-pin set in M, and connected with the head by catgut, T, and with the thumb by S. At R and R are two pulleys connected by gut. Thus if the hand moves round, the head appears to follow its motions, and when raised by pulling S, the head rises also by means of T. Further explanation seems almost unnecessary; l is a stop to prevent elbow moving too far, and b b spiral springs, to keep thumb open and head forward respectively. When N is raised, M pulls T and S, the latter closing thumb, and then raising arm by pulley H. If the lever is allowed to drop, p will catch and keep arm up. On again raising N, the arm will descend.

In Figs. 321a and 321b (elevation and plan), the wheels E and M each have a gear train omitted for clarity, which would make them spin if not controlled. However, M has two pins, p p, that catch on a projection on the lever, N. E is a crown-wheel escapement—like the one in a roasting jack—which makes A turn alternately to the left and right, causing the hand to move across the thirteen cards. A bit higher up on A, there is a quadrant, B (see plan), close to the edge where thirteen small pins are set. The end of the lever, N, fits between any two of them, stopping the hand at the chosen card. Since the lever is pivoted at c, it’s clear that pressing down on the end, N, will release B, allowing the hand to move along the cards; slightly lifting it will stop that motion; raising it more will release the pin, p, causing M to start turning, and pressing down on N again will stop this wheel. Near the bottom of the system is a bellows, O, which has a spring that helps keep the lever, N, in the shown position, as it’s linked via a rod, X. This connects to a tubular support that can be linked through a tube in the stool leg and another tube beneath the stage to an assistant behind the scenes. By compressing or releasing air through this tube, it’s clear that the lever, N, will be raised or lowered, and the clockwork will accordingly start or stop. a is a crank-pin set in M, linked to the head by catgut, T, and to the thumb by S. There are two pulleys, R and R, connected by gut. Therefore, if the hand moves, the head seems to follow its movements, and when pulled up by S, the head rises as well, thanks to T. Further explanation seems almost unnecessary; l is a stop to prevent the elbow from moving too far, and b b are spiral springs to keep the thumb open and the head forward, respectively. When N is raised, M pulls T and S, causing the thumb to close, and then lifting the arm via pulley H. If the lever is allowed to drop, p will catch and keep the arm raised. When N is raised again, the arm will go down.

Fig. 322.
Fig. 323.
Fig. 324.

In addition to the above contrivance, we have in Figs. 322 and 323 another and simpler arrangement, in which only one train of clockwork is used. On the same axle as H is fixed a lever and weight, W, to balance the arm. A vertical rod, X, having a projection, Z,539 slides up and down in guides, Y Y, and carries the catgut, S and T. The quadrant, B, has cogs cut, between which Z slides and stops the motion of A, which is moved, as before, by clockwork. The lower part of X is connected direct with O. When X is slightly raised, as shown, A is free to move, but on exhausting air and drawing X down, Z enters the cogs and stops the hand over a card; continuing to exhaust, the thumb closes and the card is lifted up. The details of the clockwork the originator of this solution omits to give. He says there should be a fan on each train to regulate the speed. The figure should be so placed that an assistant can see the cards in the semi-circular rack Fig. 324.

In addition to the above setup, we have in Figs. 322 and 323 another simpler arrangement that uses only one set of clockwork. Attached to the same axle as H is a lever and weight, W, to balance the arm. A vertical rod, X, with a projection, Z, slides up and down in guides, Y Y, and holds the catgut, S and T. The quadrant, B, has cogs cut in it, through which Z slides and stops the motion of A, which is driven by clockwork, as before. The lower part of X connects directly with O. When X is raised slightly, as shown, A can move freely, but when air is exhausted and X is pulled down, Z fits into the cogs and stops the hand over a card; as air continues to be exhausted, the thumb closes and lifts the card. The originator of this solution does not provide the specifics of the clockwork. He suggests that there should be a fan on each set to regulate the speed. The figure should be positioned so that an assistant can see the cards in the semi-circular rack Fig. 324.

The next remarkable automatic figure exhibited by the dual mystifiers at the Egyptian Hall is that called Zoe. It represents a female figure seated upon a stand. Before her is placed a semicircular drawing board, which is attached to the seat upon which the figure rests. Zoe writes figures and draws portraits of popular characters. To all appearance there is no motive power off the stage, and the exhibitor has no physical connection with the figure, whose movements and skill are apparently spontaneous. This is one of the most simple mechanical contrivances of the kind that has ever been produced. A thin steel rod runs through the seat in which the figure is fixed. The body and the arms of Zoe are above the stage, beneath which another arm and drawing-board are placed exactly in the same position as those above the platform. The mechanism is made to work so that the hand above is moved precisely as the hand below is guided by the artist. Thus, when Zoe is told to draw a portrait, say, of the Earl of Beaconsfield, the artist below guides the unseen hand, while the hand above follows the movements of its guide below. The reader may see from the annexed plan at a glance the principles of the movement; but it must be understood that this is not the only mechanism employed. It will, however, fully explain the principles of its motion.

The next impressive automatic figure showcased by the two mystifiers at the Egyptian Hall is called Zoe. It depicts a female figure seated on a platform. In front of her is a semicircular drawing board, which is connected to the seat that supports the figure. Zoe writes numbers and draws portraits of well-known personalities. It appears that there is no power source offstage, and the exhibitor doesn't physically connect with the figure, whose actions and abilities seem to occur spontaneously. This is one of the simplest mechanical devices of its kind ever created. A thin steel rod runs through the seat where the figure is secured. Zoe's body and arms are above the stage, while below, another arm and drawing board are positioned exactly like those above the platform. The mechanism is designed so that the hand above moves precisely in sync with the hand below, as guided by the artist. So, when Zoe is asked to draw a portrait, for instance, of the Earl of Beaconsfield, the artist below directs the hidden hand, while the hand above mimics the movements of its guide below. The reader can easily understand the principles of this movement from the attached diagram, but it should be noted that this isn't the only mechanism used. However, it will certainly clarify the principles of its motion.

It will be seen that whatever movement be given to the arm at B,540 the arm at A must have the same movement simultaneously. As the figure is brought on to the stage, and then fixed on to the seat, all suspicion of complicity with persons below the stage is removed; but a rod is pushed through the pedestal and secured through the upper half while the exhibitor is seating the figure.

It will be clear that whatever movement is given to the arm at B,540 the arm at A must move in the same way at the same time. As the figure is brought onto the stage and then secured to the seat, any suspicion of collusion with people below the stage is eliminated; however, a rod is inserted through the pedestal and secured through the upper half while the exhibitor is positioning the figure.

Another, and I think the latest production of note—no pun is here intended—brought before the public by Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke is Fanfare, the cornet player. This is the figure of a gentleman dressed in modern costume, holding in his hand a cornet, which he places to his mouth and plays in the most professional manner. The whole performance of this mechanical marvel, however bewildering it may appear to the observer, consists of nothing more or less than remarkable clever “lipping” on the part of a living musician, who really plays the instrument in the lonely solitude of the regions beneath the stage. The sound emitted from a brass instrument is altered in tone and pitch, according to the length and breadth of the tubes through which the wind is blown. For a bass tone wide and long tubes must be used, while for a treble tone much shorter and narrower tubes must be employed. The principles of construction are exactly similar in the cornet as in the euphonium and saxehorn, the difference of tone being produced merely by the different dimensions of the tubes. The direction of the tubes—that is, whether they be twisted or straight, or in different folds—makes very slight, if any, difference in the tone of the instrument. A cornet could be so constructed as to admit a much longer and straighter tube immediately in front of the piston tubes, and still have the tone of an ordinary cornet. It must have been this principle which first suggested to the minds of Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke the construction of an automaton cornet player. The extra long tube of which I have made mention passes through the body of the figure into its mouth, where it meets the mouth of the cornet when it is placed against the lips. This tube is passed through one of the legs of the chair on which the cornet player is seated, and thence beneath the stage, where a living cornet player manipulates the instrument in the hands of the figure by means of three strings or wires attached to the fingers of the figure. Thus while he is blowing through the tube he has the string of the first piston on his forefinger, that of the middle piston on the middle541 finger, and that of the third piston on the third finger. As he mouths his instrument he moves his fingers in precisely the same manner as he would had he an instrument instead of only a tube to play upon; and as he moves his fingers so he pulls the wires joined to the three fingers of the figure, and thus produces the change of notes which the exigencies of the tune require.

Another notable production—no pun intended—brought to the public by Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke is Fanfare, the cornet player. This figure is a gentleman dressed in modern attire, holding a cornet, which he raises to his mouth and plays in a highly professional way. However, the entire performance of this mechanical marvel, no matter how confusing it may seem to the observer, is nothing more than skilled “lipping” done by a live musician who plays the instrument in the solitude beneath the stage. The sound produced by a brass instrument changes in tone and pitch based on the length and width of the tubes through which the air is blown. To create a bass tone, wide and long tubes are needed, while for a treble tone, shorter and narrower tubes must be used. The construction principles are exactly the same for the cornet as they are for the euphonium and saxhorn; the difference in tone comes from the varying dimensions of the tubes. The orientation of the tubes—whether they are twisted, straight, or looped—makes very little, if any, difference in the tone of the instrument. A cornet could be designed with a much longer and straighter tube going directly in front of the piston tubes and still produce the sound of a regular cornet. This principle must have inspired Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke to create an automaton cornet player. The extra long tube I mentioned runs through the figure’s body into its mouth, where it connects with the mouth of the cornet when positioned against the lips. This tube passes through one of the chair legs the cornet player is seated on and extends beneath the stage, where a live cornet player operates the instrument in the figure’s hands using three strings or wires attached to its fingers. While he blows through the tube, he has the string for the first piston on his forefinger, the middle piston on the middle finger, and the third piston on the third finger. As he mouths the instrument, he moves his fingers exactly as he would if he had a real instrument instead of just a tube to play on; and as he moves his fingers, he pulls the wires connected to the figure’s three fingers, producing the changes in notes required by the tune.


542

542

CHAPTER V.
Puppets.

In perusing these articles the reader must have observed, ere this, that a great deal of the success of mechanical, and, in fact, all kinds of conjuring, consists as much in the credulity and ignorance of the audience as in the perfection of the trick itself.

In reading these articles, the reader must have noticed by now that a lot of the success of mechanical tricks, and really all types of magic, relies just as much on the audience's gullibility and lack of knowledge as it does on the skill of the trick itself.

It is not at all surprising that, centuries ago, the performer of a few juggling tricks, or the man slightly in advance of his age in science, should have been looked upon by the vulgar crowd as a person having dealings with another world, and that his Infernal Majesty himself should have been called in to father all his supernatural tricks and wonders. Happily, we have reached an age when enlightenment has driven superstition almost entirely away; and while we marvel and wonder at the cleverness of such men as Maskelyne and Cooke, Dr. Lynn, and many others, even the most ignorant of persons would never think that these gentlemen had any diabolical contract with such an uncanny gentleman as Mephistopheles. I make these remarks because the tricks I shall shortly describe have been performed, perhaps in a slightly different manner to what they are now, centuries ago, in the distant ages of Egyptian might, the earlier days of the Hindoos, and long before civilization had reached the west of Europe.

It’s not surprising that, centuries ago, a performer doing a few juggling tricks or someone ahead of their time in science was seen by the common people as having connections to another world, and that even the devil himself was considered responsible for all their supernatural feats. Fortunately, we’ve entered an age where enlightenment has nearly eliminated superstition; while we admire the skill of individuals like Maskelyne and Cooke, Dr. Lynn, and many others, even the least informed individuals wouldn’t think these guys had some sinister deal with a creepy figure like Mephistopheles. I mention this because the tricks I’ll describe shortly have been performed, perhaps in a slightly different way than today, centuries ago during the mighty ages of Egypt, in the early days of the Hindoos, and long before civilization reached western Europe.

A venerable and oft-repeated magical delusion is that of dismembering a living person. Dr. Lynn relies upon this worn-out pantomime trick for the staple of his performance; but it must be confessed that his method of manipulation and neatness of execution saves, what would be in a clumsy person’s hand, a very sorry exhibition.

A well-known and often repeated trick is the illusion of dismembering a living person. Dr. Lynn depends on this old magic trick as the main part of his act; however, it's true that his technique and precision transform what could be a poor display in the hands of someone clumsy into something impressive.

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A man is brought upon the stage, and is told that his limbs are going to be amputated. The victim makes a rush behind the curtains, no doubt frightened that the threat would be duly executed, but is brought out and made to stand still while the exhibitor coolly cuts off an arm and then a leg. The frightened, trembling subject of the professor’s carving operations is an assistant, who takes good care to be the first on the stage when a person among the audience is requested to step up and be carved. When he rushes off behind the curtains, it is to affix to one shoulder and thigh a dummy arm and leg, while his real limbs remain behind the curtains reclining upon rests. So quickly is this done that the audience cannot but believe that the arm and leg are the real flesh and blood contingents to the human frame. The professor carefully amputates the false arm and leg. Of course he can as readily replace the limbs by simply gliding the false limbs through the curtains, and releasing the bona fide leg and arm from their constrained and awkward position.

A man is brought on stage and is told that his limbs are going to be amputated. The victim makes a hurried escape behind the curtains, clearly scared that the threat will be carried out, but he is brought back out and made to stand still while the exhibitor calmly cuts off an arm and then a leg. The terrified, trembling subject of the professor’s surgery is an assistant, who makes sure to be the first on stage when someone from the audience is asked to volunteer to be "operated on." When he dashes off behind the curtains, it’s to attach a fake arm and leg to one shoulder and thigh, while his real limbs stay behind the curtains resting on supports. This happens so quickly that the audience can only believe the arm and leg are real parts of a human body. The professor meticulously amputates the fake arm and leg. Naturally, he can just as easily replace the limbs by sliding the fake ones through the curtains and freeing the real arm and leg from their awkward positions.

Another exhibition offered by Dr. Lynn to his patrons is that known as the Living Marionettes. This novel and amusing illusion was first introduced by a Frenchman, and was shown in the metropolis long before the British public had heard of Dr. Lynn, and before he brought it out as a novelty at the London Aquarium. On a small stage, a real living head, attached to a miniature body, sings, talks, and acts; and it is plainly evident to the audience that while the head is really a human one, the manikin body is but a toy. Apparently the curious figures are not connected by any means with anybody, either at the back, sides, or beneath the stage. It will be noticed that the drapery is entirely of black, and that the eye is deceived, by the absence of any break in the color of the drapery, as to544 distance. The person appearing as the Living Marionette, fixes beneath his chin the framework of the body. The back drapery is so arranged that he brings on the stage with him the curtains forming the background to his head, while with wires fixed to the legs and arms, he produces a motion in the toy, giving it the appearance of walking on the stage; so that while the Living Marionette is in the centre of the stage, the body of the man is behind it. Thus there are two backgrounds to the stage—one of black, fixed; the other also of black brought on with the head; but being black, is not seen by the audience, who imagine the head passes before the black curtain. Any number of heads can be shown, and two could perform at the same time by coming on the stage from each side, with each half a curtain or background fixed to their heads. The annexed illustration will show the head, to which is fixed a movable black frame, and the position of the real and the dummy body. There is sufficient space between the extremity of the stage and the fixed curtain at the back for the performer to stand and pass along. As I said before, the arms and legs of the toy are worked by means of wires passed through the counterfeit curtain. A very pleasing and startling entertainment may be obtained if the persons selected to perform are vocalists and comedians.

Another exhibition presented by Dr. Lynn to his audience is known as the Living Marionettes. This unique and entertaining illusion was first introduced by a Frenchman and was showcased in the city long before the British public had ever heard of Dr. Lynn, and before he debuted it as a novelty at the London Aquarium. On a small stage, a real human head, attached to a tiny body, sings, talks, and acts; and it's clear to the audience that while the head is genuinely human, the body is just a puppet. It appears that the curious figures aren't connected in any way to anyone at the back, sides, or underneath the stage. You will notice that the drapery is completely black, which tricks the eye into not seeing any break in the color of the drapery, affecting depth perception. The person performing as the Living Marionette secures the framework of the body beneath their chin. The back drapery is arranged so that when they come on stage, they bring along the curtains that serve as the background for their head, while using wires attached to the legs and arms to create movement in the puppet, making it look like it's walking on stage. Thus, while the Living Marionette is at the center of the stage, the performer is hidden behind it. This creates two backgrounds on stage—one solid black at the back, and the other black brought in with the head; since both are black, the audience doesn’t see the latter and assumes the head is moving in front of the black curtain. You can showcase any number of heads, and two could perform simultaneously by entering the stage from either side, each with half a curtain or background attached to their heads. The illustration attached will show the head with an adjustable black frame and the positioning of the real person and the puppet body. There is enough space between the edge of the stage and the fixed curtain at the back for the performer to stand and move around. As mentioned earlier, the arms and legs of the puppet are operated by wires threaded through the fake curtain. A delightful and surprising performance can be achieved if the chosen performers are singers and comedians.


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CHAPTER VI.
Psychic ability.

It is surprising with what avidity our forefathers, when they perceived some effect arising from an unknown cause, flew to the aid of diablerie and the supernatural for an elucidation of the mystery. Without seeking at once to work out a cause from the known laws of nature and natural phenomena, they stopped all pursuit in the paths of inquiry by at once bringing forward his Satanic Majesty as the cause of everything and every occurrence for the origin of which they could not give an immediate explanation.

It is surprising how eagerly our ancestors, when they noticed something happening that had no obvious cause, turned to witchcraft and the supernatural to explain the mystery. Instead of trying to understand the cause based on the known laws of nature and natural events, they quickly gave up their search for answers by blaming the Devil for everything and anything they couldn’t immediately explain.

We have happily reached an age which is distinguished for its matter of-fact treatment of all that appears mysterious and unusual. Thus we have, by our rigid inquiries into the truth, banished, or almost banished, those dread preventives of progress and civilization—superstition, and belief in the supernatural.

We’ve happily arrived at a time that’s known for its practical approach to everything mysterious and out of the ordinary. Through our thorough investigations into the truth, we’ve effectively eliminated, or nearly eliminated, those scary barriers to progress and civilization—superstition and belief in the supernatural.

But even at the present day, with all its enlightenment and education, we find the weakness of our ancestors palpably predominating in the minds of the ignorant multitude, and spiritualism and magic looked upon by a certain number of persons as things existing and beyond the ken of men. Scientific inquiry—that broom that has swept away so many superstitions—has done its work well, and it cannot be long before the bigoted believers in the so-called “manifestation” of beings in another and unknown world will be looked upon, even by those whose belief in them is strongest, as the mechanical hanky-panky tricks of clever and astute conjurors, who feed upon the credulity and simplicity of their tools and followers.

But even today, with all our knowledge and education, we still see the weaknesses of our ancestors clearly dominating the minds of the unaware masses. Many people still view spiritualism and magic as real phenomena that are beyond human understanding. Scientific inquiry—that force that has dismantled so many superstitions—has done its job well, and it won’t be long before those who blindly believe in the so-called "manifestations" of beings from another and unknown world are seen, even by the staunchest believers, as nothing more than clever tricks performed by skilled magicians who take advantage of the gullibility and naivety of their followers.

Among the many subjects which were classed with the supernatural phenomena arising from the agency of unseen and spiritual powers,546 clairvoyance, or second sight, ranks conspicuous. It has been asserted, and by no mean authority, that second sight, or the belief in a secondary and unnatural sight, took its origin in the Scottish Highlands and Isles, where it was known by the name of taisch—a spectral or shadowy appearance; but from the time when the Oracle at Delphi was sought by the populace, and when thousands were deluded by the mere mechanical tricks of a clever and crafty priesthood, even to this day, second sight has been looked upon as a spiritual visitation bestowed for some design upon persons who are made the instruments of Providence.

Among the many topics that fall under supernatural phenomena caused by unseen and spiritual forces, clairvoyance, or second sight, stands out. It has been claimed, and by reputable sources, that second sight, or the belief in an additional and unnatural vision, originated in the Scottish Highlands and Isles, where it was referred to as taisch—a spectral or shadowy figure. Since the time the Oracle at Delphi was consulted by the public, and when countless people were misled by the simple tricks of a clever and crafty priesthood, even to this day, second sight has been regarded as a spiritual encounter granted for a purpose to individuals who become instruments of Providence.546

That at times men have had a prescience of what was to come cannot be denied, since murders and murderers have been undoubtedly discovered by means of visions which have been seen of the murderer, and the spot where the murder was committed.

That at times people have had a sense of what was to come cannot be denied, since murders and murderers have definitely been uncovered through visions of the killer and the location where the murder took place.

Even Dr. Johnson, in his Journal in the Hebrides, where the belief in second sight prevailed to a great extent, hesitates whether to believe or deny; and he asserts that he “came away at last only willing to believe.” It is not my intention, nor have I the time or space, to enter fully into the subject of second sight of the past, but it is my intention to fully explain second sight, as it is understood now, and the reader will at once see how the old fabric of the superstitious ages melts into the most commonplace, and he will be perhaps vexed and annoyed to think that when witnessing a performance of second sight his mind misgave him, and he really was willing to believe.

Even Dr. Johnson, in his Journal in the Hebrides, where the belief in second sight was quite strong, wavers on whether to believe or not; he admits that he “came away at last only willing to believe.” I don’t have the time or space to dive deep into the topic of second sight from the past, but I do intend to explain how second sight is understood today. The reader will quickly see how the old beliefs from superstitious times blend into something quite ordinary, and he may feel frustrated and annoyed to realize that when witnessing a demonstration of second sight, he had his doubts, yet was genuinely open to believing.

The power, when blindfold, to discriminate things unseen, and promiscuously pick from a crowd of persons, and name miscellaneous and out-of-the-way articles, has been performed so cleverly that the greatest surprise and wonder has been created in the minds of even the most intelligent spectators. But like everything else to which the term magic has been and is applied, the wonderful and mysterious are only the simple and the commonplace, and the credulity of the audience leads to the merest trickery, to that marvel and wonder which surrounds a feat of legerdemain or clairvoyance; but, as my readers will have already seen, as soon as second sight is explained, it will cause wonder no more.

The ability to sense things without seeing, to randomly choose from a group of people, and to identify various unusual items has been done so skillfully that it has astonished even the most intelligent observers. However, like everything labeled as magic, the amazing and mysterious are just simple and ordinary things, and the audience's gullibility leads to mere trickery, generating the marvel and wonder surrounding feats of sleight of hand or clairvoyance. As my readers may already realize, once second sight is explained, it will no longer seem wondrous.

There are always two persons engaged in an exhibition of clairvoyance—the person who asks what the article is and the person who547 answers. The whole secret of second sight lies in the method of asking what the article is. A sort of dictionary has to be learned by both, and this lesson is certainly not more difficult than that of the tragedian in learning his part; but the audience are deceived by the simplicity of the questions asked. Although the words used by the questioner are nearly always the same, the position of the words is different. Hence, a different answer can be applied for every varying construction of the sentence.

There are always two people involved in a display of clairvoyance—the one who asks what the item is and the one who answers. The entire secret of second sight depends on how the question about the item is phrased. Both people need to learn a sort of dictionary, and this lesson is certainly no more challenging than an actor learning their lines; however, the audience is misled by the simplicity of the questions asked. Although the words used by the questioner are almost always the same, the order of the words changes. As a result, a different answer can be provided for each different structure of the sentence.

When these different questions and their answers are thoroughly understood by the two accomplices, they can give an exhibition which to the uninitiated will appear marvellous and unaccountable. When the interrogator asks the question, “Is this picture colored or plain?” the answer is “Plain;” or if the question is, “Is this picture plain or colored?” the answer is “Colored.” This is the whole groundwork of second sight, and in order more fully to illustrate this matter I will give a series of answers and questions which have been adopted by a number of English and American professors. In asking the color of an article, the question can be so differently constructed that each construction can bear the answer for every ordinary color.

When these different questions and their answers are fully understood by the two accomplices, they can put on a show that will seem amazing and inexplicable to those who aren't in the know. When the interrogator asks, “Is this picture colored or plain?” the answer is “Plain;” or if the question is, “Is this picture plain or colored?” the answer is “Colored.” This is the entire foundation of second sight, and to clarify this further, I will provide a series of questions and answers that have been used by several English and American professors. When asking about the color of an item, the phrasing of the question can vary so much that each variation can yield the right answer for any common color.

What color is this? Black.

What color is this? Black.

What is the color? Blue.

What is the color? Blue.

Tell me the color? Green.

Can you tell me the color? Green.

Has it a color? White.

Does it have a color? White.

Any color? Orange, yellow.

Any color? Orange, yellow.

Name the color? Brown.

What color would you name it? Brown.

Please name the color? Red.

Please tell me the color? Red.

These have only to be learned by two persons in combination, when they will be able to tell the color of any article. Should the exhibitor have an article of a mixed color, say, mauve, he first asks the question having red for the answer; and then, before the reply can be given, again puts the query for blue. The clairvoyant thereby knowing it is a mixture of red and blue, he is able to know that mauve is the answer required. Again, in asking the nature of a stone set in a jewel the question may be thus arranged:

These only need to be learned by two people working together, and then they will be able to identify the color of any item. If the presenter has an item that is a mixed color, like mauve, they first ask a question that has red as the answer; before the response can be given, they ask about blue. The clairvoyant, realizing it’s a mix of red and blue, can conclude that mauve is the required answer. Similarly, when asking about the type of stone set in a jewel, the question can be organized like this:

What is the stone? Topaz.

What's the stone? Topaz.

What stone is it? Jet.

What kind of stone is it? Jet.

548 Tell me the stone? Emerald.

548 Can you tell me the stone? Emerald.

Name the stone? Diamond.

What’s the name of the stone? Diamond.

Do you know the stone? Cornelian.

Do you know which stone it is? Carnelian.

Any stone? Amethyst.

Any stone? Amethyst.

And so on ad infinitum. In ascertaining the nature of a piece of jewelry the questions may be put thus:

And so on ad infinitum. To determine the nature of a piece of jewelry, the questions can be framed like this:

What is the metal? Gold.

What is the metal? Gold.

What metal is it? Brass.

Which metal is it? Brass.

What metal? Silver.

What metal is this? Silver.

Tell me the metal? Copper.

What metal are you referring to? Copper.

Name the metal? Iron; steel.

Can you name the metal? Iron; steel.

Please name the metal? Bronze.

Please identify the metal? Bronze.

Can you tell me the metal? Tin.

Can you tell me what this metal is? Tin.

The following questions, having replies for the usual articles found upon persons assembled to witness a performance, may easily be learned by a person gifted with a good memory, or by a person with an ordinary memory by repeated application:

The following questions, which have answers for the common topics discussed by people gathered to watch a show, can be easily remembered by someone with a good memory, or by someone with an average memory through consistent practice:

Name this? A pocket comb.

What's this? A pocket comb.

What have I here? A purse.

What do I have here? A wallet.

What is this? A toothpick.

What is this? A toothpick.

This will puzzle you? Court plaster.

This will throw you off? Court plaster.

Speak loud? A letter.

Say it louder? A letter.

Answer quickly? A handkerchief.

Answer fast? A handkerchief.

Has it a color? White.

Does it have a color? White.

Is it perfumed? Yes.

Is it scented? Yes.

Tell me now? Keys.

What is it now? Keys.

Is this of any use? An almanac.

Is this helpful? An almanac.

What is this for? To burn a cigar.

What’s this for? To light a cigar.

Do ladies use this? Yes; a pincushion, needlecase.

Do women use this? Yes; a pincushion, needle case.

Do you know this? A walking-stick.

Do you recognize this? A walking stick.

Now, can you tell this? A pocket-book.

Now, can you tell me this? A wallet.

Would you like this? Yes; a watch.

Would you want this? Yeah; a watch.

Do you admire this? A brooch.

Do you like this? A brooch.

Who gave me this? A lady—a bracelet.

Who gave me this? A woman—a bracelet.

What is in my hand? A pin.

What's in my hand? A pin.

Now, who gave me this? A gentleman—a chain.

Now, who gave me this? A guy—a chain.

549 What have I now? Money.

549 What do I have now? Money.

Now, what have I got? A sovereign.

So, what do I have? A ruler.

Can you tell me again? A shilling.

Can you say that again? A shilling.

Is this the same? Sixpence.

Is this the same? Sixpence.

You say I have money; but you don’t say the kind? A florin.

You say I have money, but you didn’t say what kind? A florin.

You say I have money; but you don’t say its value? A half crown.

You say I have money, but you didn’t say its value? A half crown.

You say I have money; but tell me its value? Ten shillings.

You say I have money, but what’s it worth? Ten shillings.

What is the value of the money? A penny.

What's the money's value? A penny.

I cannot hear you? A halfpenny.

I can't hear you? A penny.

I think I have given sufficient queries and answers to indicate the simplicity and the secret of second sight. When all the particulars of the articles are required, although the questions may seem perplexing to the spectator, yet they are extremely simple to the person who knows each question and its reply by heart.

I believe I've provided enough questions and answers to show the simplicity and the secret of second sight. When all the details about the items are needed, even though the questions might seem confusing to the observer, they are actually very straightforward for someone who knows each question and its answer by heart.

Here is an illustration of a complicated series of questions, and the reader will see at once that the answering is very simple:

Here’s an example of a complex set of questions, and you'll quickly see that the answers are pretty straightforward:

What is in my hand? A pin.

What do I have in my hand? A pin.

What is the metal? Gold.

What material is it? Gold.

Any stone? Amethyst.

Is there a gem? Amethyst.

What have I now? Money.

What do I have now? Money.

You say I have money; but you don’t say the kind? A florin.

You say I have money, but you don’t say what kind? A florin.

Can you tell me again? A shilling.

Can you say that again? A shilling.

From the illustrations I have given above, the reader will perceive that, provided a large and well-selected assortment of questions, corresponding with replies, be agreed upon, and well known by the two confederates, almost any question may be answered and any article known, together with its properties, color, contents, etc.

From the illustrations I provided earlier, the reader will understand that if a large and well-chosen set of questions, matched with answers, is agreed upon and familiar to both partners, almost any question can be answered and any item can be identified, along with its properties, color, contents, etc.

Another exhibition of clairvoyance—the reading of writing sealed up and unopened—adds greatly to the mystery of the performance; but how this is done can be easily explained. Previous to going on the stage, a sentence is selected, and written in blacklead on a piece of paper. During the performance similar pieces of paper are handed round to several of the audience, who are requested to write a sentence thereon. These papers are sealed similarly to the prepared one, and placed in a hat. The professor then pretends to select one550 at random, after having shaken up the papers; but he really takes up the one he had already in his hand. The lady clairvoyant is then requested to read a sentence, which, of course, she can easily do. The paper is then handed to one of the audience and to their astonishment it is found to have been the actual sentence written. It will be understood that each writer of a sentence is ignorant of what another has written, and the given sentence is therefore thought to have been written by one of the audience. This suspicion may be heightened by the queer method of spelling, or the character of the caligraphy; it may be made still more astounding by writing the sentence in a foreign language with a slight mistake in spelling, or grammar, upon which the clairvoyant can comment in her reply, and thus acquire a reputation for scholarly and linguistic attainments. The same means are resorted to in the adding up of a sum. The figures are all prepared behind the stage, and the bona fide sums given by the audience are never the ones answered by the clairvoyant. I think I have given, or I hope I have, a clear and full explanation of clairvoyance or second sight, and the reader may, by a little practice, become as perfect in this special branch of magic as the mysterious lady—Heller—Miss Anderson, Dr. Lynn, and a host of others, who have mystified and bewildered thousands of wondering spectators.

Another demonstration of clairvoyance—reading writing that’s been sealed up and unopened—really adds to the mystery of the act. However, it can be easily explained. Before going on stage, a sentence is chosen and written in pencil on a piece of paper. During the performance, similar pieces of paper are handed out to several audience members, who are asked to write a sentence on them. These papers are then sealed in the same way as the prepared one and placed in a hat. The professor pretends to randomly select one after shaking up the papers, but he actually picks the one he already has. The lady clairvoyant is then asked to read a sentence, which, of course, she can easily do. The paper is then given to a member of the audience, and much to their surprise, it turns out to be the exact sentence they wrote. It's important to note that each writer doesn’t know what anyone else has written, so they believe the provided sentence was written by one of the audience members. This assumption can be strengthened by unusual spelling or the style of handwriting; it can become even more impressive if the sentence is written in a foreign language with a small mistake in spelling or grammar, which the clairvoyant can comment on in her response, thereby earning a reputation for her knowledge and language skills. The same method is used when adding up a total. The numbers are all prepared behind the scenes, and the bona fide sums provided by the audience are never the ones that the clairvoyant answers. I think I've provided, or I hope I've provided, a clear and complete explanation of clairvoyance or second sight, and with a bit of practice, the reader can become just as skilled in this particular art of magic as the mysterious lady—Heller—Miss Anderson, Dr. Lynn, and many others who have mystified and amazed countless astonished spectators.


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CHAPTER VII.
Spirituality.

The belief in the materialization of spirits, and the visits of spiritual inhabitants of another world to the scene of their mortal sojourn for the sole object of giving specimens of their caligraphy on slates and ceilings, rapping and playing upon tambourines, sealed accordions, guitars, and so forth, affords another proof that there are no bounds to human credulity and stupidity.

The belief in spirits appearing and the visits from spiritual beings from another realm to the places they once lived just to provide samples of their writing on slates and ceilings, tapping and playing tambourines, sealed accordions, guitars, and so on, shows once again that there are no limits to human gullibility and foolishness.

A worthy doctor of philosophy, only recently deceased, said in my hearing, while speaking of the gross ignorance that prevailed among believers in spiritualism, that if a man stood in the middle of the road with a crowd of people round him, and asserted, with well-worded sentences and an apparent earnestness and belief on his own part, that two and two were five, he would find some among the crowd to believe him. Perhaps the doctor went a little too far in his observation, but it is, nevertheless, almost incredible that a large number of persons can be so bigoted and thick-headed as to persist in their belief in spiritualism when medium after medium has been most unequivocally found to be conjuror, trickster, and swindler. These conjurors and tricksters are not men who practise their art of deceiving on the stage in a legitimate manner, but they are men who pander to the credulity, bigotry, and fanaticism of the imbecile, obtuse, and weak-minded person who believe in spirit land, by claiming the power of recalling from that unknown region to which the soul is supposed to take its flight when it has shuffled off its mortal coil, those beings who have gone from earth never to return again, except by the agency of these mediums. In asserting their power of “calling up the spirits from the vasty deep,” or from the sky, they offer as552 proof of their claim to be believed certain tests, which have been, and which I will show are, simply the hanky-panky tricks of the prestidigitateur and magician. The credulous followers of these mediums cannot or will not see the absurdity of bringing souls from the “world of spirits” merely to answer idiotic questions, and to perform such antics as even a wild and unrestrained boy would not be mad enough to do; but they believe the assertions of the mediums simply because the tests which are applied to them consist of something more material and tangible than aërial nothings, and appear to be marvellous and beyond the power of the human mind to understand.

A respected philosopher, who recently passed away, once expressed to me, while discussing the widespread ignorance among spiritualism believers, that if someone stood in the middle of the street with a crowd around him and confidently stated, using well-phrased sentences and with apparent seriousness and conviction, that two plus two equals five, there would be some people in the crowd who would believe him. Perhaps the philosopher may have overstated his point, but it’s still astonishing that so many individuals can be so stubborn and narrow-minded, continuing to believe in spiritualism despite numerous mediums being clearly exposed as frauds, tricksters, and con artists. These con artists are not performers who deceive audiences in a legitimate way but instead prey on the gullibility, prejudice, and fanaticism of those who are simple-minded, slow to understand, and weak-minded, claiming they can summon souls from the supposed spirit world—where the soul is believed to go after death—using their so-called powers to connect with those who have passed away, who supposedly cannot return unless through these mediums. By claiming they can “call up spirits from the vasty deep” or from the sky, they provide as proof certain tests that are, as I will demonstrate, nothing more than the sleight-of-hand tricks of illusionists and magicians. The gullible followers of these mediums either cannot or refuse to see the ridiculousness of summoning souls from the “spirit world” just to answer silly questions or to perform ridiculous antics that even a wild child wouldn’t be foolish enough to do. They believe the claims of the mediums simply because the tests involve something more concrete and real than airy nothingness, making them seem amazing and beyond human comprehension.

Have these spiritualists never witnessed the performance of a clever conjuror who confesses that all his tricks are worked by mechanical means and sleight of hand? or have they never seen apparent wonders performed, the mystery of which they could not unravel? They must have done so, and yet we have never once heard such men as Heller, Houdin, Professor Anderson, Maskelyne and Cooke, assert that their performances or manifestations were the works of materialized spirits.

Have these spiritualists never seen a skilled magician who admits that all his tricks are done with mechanical devices and sleight of hand? Or have they never witnessed amazing feats that they couldn't figure out? They must have, yet we've never heard people like Heller, Houdin, Professor Anderson, Maskelyne, and Cooke claim that their acts or displays were the result of materialized spirits.

One of the tests offered by the mediums is the rope-tying trick, made so famous by the Davenport Brothers. It has been clearly demonstrated that it was merely a trick. The medium has in his hand a coil of rope about twelve yards long. The lights are extinguished, and a few seconds afterward, when the gas is lighted, he is seen securely fastened to a chair, his hands tied, and the rope made fast between his wrists. One of the company is requested to examine the rope and seal the ends of the knot. The gas is again extinguished, and a tambourine is heard bounding about the room. A hand—and a very material hand—claps the faces of the nearest persons, hats are knocked off, a bell is rung, arms are pinched, and various other manifestations occur which fully convince the astonished devotees that some one—spirit or otherwise—is evidently giving free vent to a playful and mischievous disposition. The medium, of course, claims that these manifestations are performed by spirits summoned by him; and he is believed, not because the spectators suppose that spirits could be so summoned and be made to manifest their presence, but that, because the medium is tied with a rope, the ends of which are so sealed as to prevent his getting free from the bondage into which553 the spirits have placed him, he cannot possibly be the one that played the tambourine, rung the bell, gave the blows, etc.—ergo, it must have been the spirits.

One of the tests performed by the mediums is the rope-tying trick, famously done by the Davenport Brothers. It has been clearly shown that it’s just a trick. The medium holds a coil of rope about twelve yards long. The lights go out, and a few seconds later, when the gas is lit again, he appears to be securely tied to a chair, with his hands bound and the rope fastened between his wrists. One of the audience members is asked to inspect the rope and seal the ends of the knot. The gas is turned off again, and a tambourine can be heard bouncing around the room. A hand—a very real hand—claps the faces of those nearby, hats are knocked off, a bell rings, arms are pinched, and various other events happen that completely convince the amazed onlookers that someone—whether a spirit or not—is clearly having fun and being mischievous. The medium, of course, claims that these events are caused by spirits he has summoned; and he is believed, not because the spectators think that spirits can be summoned and made to show themselves, but because, since the medium is tied with a rope whose ends are sealed to prevent him from escaping from the bondage that the spirits have put him in, he cannot possibly be the one who played the tambourine, rang the bell, caused the taps, etc.—ergo, it must have been the spirits.

Now, had these faithful believers looked very carefully at the rope and the method of the tying, they would have discovered that the rope had previously been cut in halves, and then knotted with a fast knot in the middle. This knot is concealed by the medium before he binds himself, by holding it in his hand. The rope then, of course, looks like one continuous whole. When the gas is lowered, he places the two ends of the rope beneath him on the chair, and, in a manner which I can scarcely explain in writing or even by illustration, so binds himself, that by making a double running knot, and placing this double noose twice round his wrist, he can slip it, and thus free his hand at will. The knot may be concealed, because it is never touched or disturbed. When the room is again darkened, it is found to be a very easy matter for the medium to perform any of the usual manifestations.

Now, if these faithful believers had looked closely at the rope and how it was tied, they would have noticed that the rope was previously cut in half and then knotted tightly in the middle. This knot is hidden by the medium before he binds himself, as he holds it in his hand. So, the rope appears to be one continuous piece. When the lights are dimmed, he places the two ends of the rope beneath him on the chair and, in a way that I can barely explain in writing or even show in pictures, ties himself up so that by making a double running knot and wrapping it twice around his wrist, he can slip it and free his hand whenever he wants. The knot can stay hidden because it’s never touched or disturbed. When the room is dark again, it becomes very easy for the medium to perform any of the usual tricks.

Another test offered by a medium, and which was considered as convincing proof of the right of his claim of connection with the world of spirits, was the well-known sealed accordion test. The instrument was fast bound by tapes, and the tapes sealed at every note so as to prevent it being played in the ordinary way. As soon as the lights were out the accordion was heard to play, not too sweetly, but sufficiently well to show that the instrument was being manipulated. When the lights were again produced, the accordion was found just as it had been placed, fast bound by tapes, each note sealed, and the seals immaculate.

Another test performed by a medium, which was seen as convincing evidence of their connection to the spirit world, was the famous sealed accordion test. The instrument was tightly wrapped in tape, and the tape was sealed at every note to prevent it from being played normally. Once the lights were turned off, the accordion could be heard playing, not beautifully, but well enough to show that someone was controlling it. When the lights came back on, the accordion was found exactly as it had been placed, tightly wrapped in tape, each note sealed, and the seals untouched.

This trick may be performed by any of our readers without having the slightest introduction to the beings of another world. He has only to procure a small tube, place it in the valve-hole of the accordion, breath and blow into it alternately, and then by fingering the keys he will be able to produce precisely the same effect as our friends the mediums. In order to touch distant persons, or to make such things as guitars and tambourines play at different parts of the room, he has to conceal about him, or have hidden in some recess in the table or chair, a telescopic rod, extending several feet. To the end of this he fixes the tambourine or guitar, on the surface of which has554 been placed some phosphorus, and by waving the stick he makes it appear as if persons were floating over the heads of the company. The invisible hand is formed by a glove being fastened to the end of the tube. The glove is inflated or blown out through the tube, and when slapped on to the cheek of a person it has all the sensations of a cold hand striking the face. The glove covered with phosphorus and waved about is the mysterious hand, without any body, which caused so many to believe that a spirit was present.

This trick can be done by any of our readers without needing any introduction to beings from another world. All you need is a small tube that you can insert into the valve-hole of the accordion, and by breathing and blowing into it alternately, you can create the same effect as our medium friends. To reach distant people or make items like guitars and tambourines play from different spots in the room, you need to hide a telescopic rod, which can extend several feet, somewhere on your body or in a hidden spot on a table or chair. At the end of this rod, attach the tambourine or guitar, dusted with some phosphorus, and by waving the stick, it will look like objects are floating above the heads of the audience. The "invisible hand" is made by attaching a glove to the end of the tube. The glove is inflated through the tube, and when it taps someone on the cheek, it feels just like a cold hand touching their face. The phosphorus-covered glove, waved around, acts as the mysterious hand, seemingly without a body, leading many to believe that a spirit was present.

At the end of this useful tube may also be fixed a reed trumpet or whistle, and by blowing through the tube sound can be evolved, and when the instrument is worked about in different directions a large but discordant band of spiritual musicians appear, to the materially and physically benighted listeners, to be in the room. To play the guitar, while floating in the air, seems a more difficult problem, but the reader will easily see how this is achieved. In the guitar is a musical box with a small piece of writing paper so placed as to touch the steel or vibrating tongues of the box, and this closely imitates the peculiar twang of the guitar.

At the end of this useful tube, you can attach a reed trumpet or whistle, and by blowing through the tube, sound can be produced. When the instrument is moved around in different directions, a large but discordant group of spiritual musicians seems to be in the room for the listeners who are materially and physically unaware. Playing the guitar while floating in the air seems like a tougher challenge, but it’s easy to see how this is done. Inside the guitar is a musical box with a small piece of writing paper positioned to touch the steel or vibrating tongues of the box, which closely mimics the unique twang of the guitar.

When a medium, after having been caught in one or two of his performances, announces his intention of floating over the heads of the little world of spiritualists, they at once hold up their hands in silent admiration, and their belief in the invisible world becomes more vigorous. They then hasten to pay their guinea or two guineas to share in this manifestation of the spirit. The medium having called up the spirit from the “vasty deep,” the room is darkened and a bull’s-eye lantern is held at such a distance from the medium as to make his face appear vague and indistinct. He is then seen suddenly to rise, and in his aërial flight performs a beautiful curve. His face is sufficiently masked as to make the features indistinguishable; but, at the same time, to make the audience fully assured that it is his face. The lantern is made to follow him, and in a moment the face is lost in darkness, but for one instant only, and then as the gas is lit the medium is seen with his toes just touching the platform, and his form descending to its ordinary upright position. Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke and others have well shown that this floating in the air is one of the grossest deceptions ever offered to the most gullible of audiences.555 First, there is ready to hand a lay figure, got up to resemble the medium or professor. Hanging from the top of the stage are two cords, concealed from the audience. When the medium prepares for his flight the bull’s-eye lantern is turned upon him, but the person holding the lantern, pretending that the focus is not altogether right, turns it away to arrange it, as it were. While this is being done, the medium quickly substitutes the lay figure. The ends of these cords are furnished with hooks, which are fastened on to the shoulders of the lay figure, and then the exhibitor by means of a pulley hauls the figure upward, the light being kept at such a distance as to just make the figure of the dummy visible, but totally unrecognizable. During one of the intervals of the lantern’s wanderings the dummy is removed, and the medium is seen descending, by merely raising himself on his toes and lowering himself, and when the full light is upon him sinking on his knees.

When a medium, after being caught in one or two of his performances, announces he's going to float over the heads of the small community of spiritualists, they all hold up their hands in silent admiration, and their belief in the unseen world strengthens. They quickly rush to pay their guinea or two guineas to be part of this spirit manifestation. After the medium calls up the spirit from the "vasty deep," the room goes dark, and a bull’s-eye lantern is held far enough away from the medium to make his face look vague and unclear. Suddenly, he rises and gracefully performs a beautiful curve in the air. His face is masked enough that his features are unrecognizable, but the audience is still convinced it's him. The lantern follows him, and for a moment his face goes dark, but just for an instant. As the gas lights up, the medium can be seen with his toes just touching the platform, descending back to his usual upright position. Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke, among others, have clearly demonstrated that this air-floating trick is one of the biggest deceptions ever presented to the most easily fooled audiences.555 Firstly, there is an easily accessible lay figure made to look like the medium or professor. Two cords are hidden from the audience and hang from the top of the stage. When the medium gets ready for his flight, the bull’s-eye lantern is pointed at him, but the person holding the lantern pretends the focus isn’t quite right and turns it away to adjust it. While this happens, the medium quickly swaps in the lay figure. The ends of the cords have hooks attached to the shoulders of the lay figure, and then the exhibitor pulls the figure up using a pulley, keeping the light at just the right distance to make the dummy visible but completely unrecognizable. During one of the lantern’s intervals of movement, the dummy is taken away, and the medium is seen lowering himself back down by simply raising up on his toes. When the full light shines on him, he sinks to his knees.

In spite of the exposure of the tricks played by mediums, there are still persons to be found who really believe that the tambourines, accordions, guitars, etc., are played by spirit hands, and that beings from the invisible world make a special journey at every spiritual séance.

In spite of the revealed tricks used by mediums, there are still people who genuinely believe that tambourines, accordions, guitars, and so on are played by spirit hands, and that beings from the unseen world make a special trip to every spiritual séance.

Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke have, in their popular entertainment, done a great deal to destroy the belief in the spiritual world founded upon the tests offered by mediums, and have clearly shown that the tricks which the mediums assert can only be done by spiritual agency might be performed by any ingenious person.

Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke have, in their popular show, done a lot to undermine belief in the spiritual world based on the tests provided by mediums, and have clearly demonstrated that the tricks which the mediums claim can only be done by spiritual forces could be carried out by any skilled individual.

Another trick which has been performed by Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke is that known as the spiritual musical box. An oblong piece of glass is suspended by means of four cords hanging from the ceiling, and upon this glass is placed a musical box. At the word of command the box begins to play, and when desired by the exhibitor or one of the audience, it suddenly ceases. The effect is really marvellous, but the secret of the trick is very simple. In the box there is placed a balance lever, which, when the glass is in the slightest degree tilted, arrests the fly-fan, and thus prevents the machinery from moving. When the performer gives the word of command, the glass is made level, and, the fly fan being released, the machinery moves, and a tune is played. When commanded to stop, the cord556 on either side is slightly pulled, the balance lever drops, the fly fan is arrested, and the music ceases.

Another trick performed by Messrs. Maskelyne and Cooke is known as the spiritual musical box. An oblong piece of glass is suspended by four cords from the ceiling, and on this glass sits a musical box. At the command, the box starts to play, and when requested by the performer or someone in the audience, it suddenly stops. The effect is truly amazing, but the secret of the trick is quite simple. Inside the box is a balance lever that, when the glass tilts even slightly, stops the fly-fan and halts the machinery. When the performer gives the command, the glass is leveled, allowing the fly fan to move, and a tune is played. When commanded to stop, a cord on either side is gently pulled, the balance lever drops, the fly fan is stopped, and the music ends.

The writing by “spirits” on the ceiling is done in this way. The medium is bound, and when the room is lighted a written answer to a question asked is put upon the ceiling. The reader will have already guessed that this is performed by the medium by means of the telescopic tube, at the end of which he places a piece of chalk. He rubs the chalk on his head, to “show” that the spirits had raised him to the ceiling, as if he had performed the feat with his head. Another “crucial” test which these mediums offer is known as the invisible writing. One of the company is asked to write a sentence or a number of figures upon a piece of paper. This paper is carefully folded, the lights are extinguished. In a few seconds they are again relighted, when the medium declares that the spirits have told him the contents of the paper, and he reads the sentences or tells the figures.

The writing done by “spirits” on the ceiling works like this. The medium is restrained, and when the room is lit, a written response to a question asked appears on the ceiling. You might have guessed that this is done by the medium using a telescopic tube, at the end of which he attaches a piece of chalk. He rubs the chalk on his head to “prove” that the spirits lifted him to the ceiling, as if he achieved the feat with his head. Another “crucial” test these mediums perform is called invisible writing. One person in the group is asked to write a sentence or a series of numbers on a piece of paper. This paper is carefully folded, and the lights are turned off. In a few seconds, they are turned back on, and the medium claims that the spirits have revealed the contents of the paper to him, and he reads the sentences or recites the numbers.

Again, the medium asks a gentleman to put the hands of a watch to any hour he chooses, and, when again the lights are lowered, he calls out the exact time to the exact minute. This all seems very mysterious and unaccountable, but I shall again show that we do not require spirit aid to perform these marvels. The medium has in his pocket a small phial containing phosphorus and oil; and when this test is performed there is invariably a long cloth on the table. When the papers upon which the sentence or figures are written, or the watch, are placed on the table, the lights are lowered, and the performer stoops beneath the table, takes the paper or watch, opens the phial, from which a blue flame is emitted, and by this light he reads the sentence, or figures, or sees the time.557 He replaces the articles, and can, of course, readily tell what he has read or seen.

Once again, the medium asks a gentleman to set the hands of a watch to any hour he likes, and when the lights are dimmed, he announces the exact time down to the minute. This all seems very mysterious and inexplicable, but I'll demonstrate that we don't need any spirit assistance to pull off these tricks. The medium has a small vial in his pocket filled with phosphorus and oil; and when this test is conducted, there's always a long cloth on the table. After placing the papers with the written sentence or figures, or the watch, on the table, the lights are lowered, and the performer leans down under the table, grabs the paper or watch, opens the vial, which produces a blue flame, and uses this light to read the sentence, the figures, or check the time.557 He puts everything back in place and can easily recall what he read or saw.

The floating table has often been performed, but I have never attempted to do this spiritual manifestation. The medium generally has with him an accomplice, and they bind to their arms a flat iron rod, which terminates toward the wrist in a kind of hook concealed from the company by the cuffs of the shirt. The medium contrives to slip this hook under the edge of the table, as does also his confederate who sits opposite, while the dupe is sitting between. The annexed illustration will show the iron rod, and the method of fitting it beneath the table.

The floating table trick has been done many times, but I've never tried this spiritual manifestation myself. The medium usually has an accomplice, and they tie a flat iron rod to their arms, which ends in a hook near the wrist that is hidden by their shirt cuffs. The medium manages to slide this hook under the edge of the table, and their accomplice, sitting across from them, does the same while an unsuspecting person sits in between. The illustration attached will show the iron rod and how it's placed under the table.

The reader will readily perceive that with the aid of these hooks the two persons can play all kinds of tricks with the table, making it go from side to side and glide from one part of the room to another.

The reader will easily see that with these hooks, the two people can do all sorts of tricks with the table, making it move from side to side and slide from one part of the room to another.

There are other methods of tying besides those which I have already mentioned. Some mediums permit themselves to be tied by one of the audience. In this case the medium inflates his body and sits in such a position that all his muscles and limbs are distended. When he resumes his normal position the ropes become loose and he releases himself.

There are other ways to tie up a medium besides the ones I've already mentioned. Some mediums allow a member of the audience to tie them up. In this case, the medium inflates their body and sits in a position that stretches all their muscles and limbs. When they return to their normal position, the ropes loosen, and they free themselves.

If there be any of my readers who have hitherto been inclined to believe in the professions of the medium, I hope that what I have said will open their eyes, and show them that the so-called materialization of spirits is purely and simply a myth, and that the mediums are nothing more nor less than clever but unprincipled conjurors.

If any of my readers have been inclined to believe in what the medium claims, I hope that what I've said will open their eyes and show them that the so-called materialization of spirits is just a myth, and that the mediums are nothing more than clever but unscrupulous tricksters.


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CHAPTER VIII.
Magic Tricks.

The art of magic, as it is now understood, is no longer a secret and mystic profession; it is a written art, and may be easily acquired by the clever mechanician, or any person having dexterous hands and a large amount of self-possession and impudence. I say “impudence,” because most of the best tricks are really so extremely simple that many persons of a timid or self-conscious disposition would feel ashamed to venture to perform them, in case of what they think must be inevitable detection and exposure. But so blind is poor human nature that the clever conjuror can always select his man for “forcing a card upon him,” even though he makes his dupe believe he has selected one at his own will and choice. At the request of a large number of friends, I will conclude this volume by giving a few tricks which may be performed after a very little practice by anybody who will take a little trouble, and for the execution of which no, or very little, apparatus will be required—at any rate, only such as can be obtained either in any ordinary house, or at a very trifling expense. The task which I have set myself is not, as the reader might imagine, an easy one, for in endeavoring to give some tricks which have not before been already fully explained in books published on the subject, I find that there is scarcely a parlor trick which has not already been explained. Therefore, to give some tricks that have never yet been exposed is really a very difficult and almost impossible task. However, I have done my best, and the following little deceptions which the amateur conjuror may safely perform, will enable him to give a capital evening’s entertainment to his friends or family circle. I would just add one word before quitting the subject of magic and559 conjuring. My object in the foregoing chapters was to show the reader, first, that the art of magic is merely the art of a very clever illusionist, who, by swiftness of execution and a thorough knowledge of the laws of mechanics and optics, can make his audience deceive themselves; secondly, to afford some entertainment to my readers; and, thirdly, to set the ingenious at work to solve the mysteries of the art upon the basis I have given in these chapters. I venture to think, from the observations I have heard, that all these objects have been attained. And now for a few parlor tricks.

The art of magic, as we understand it today, isn’t a secretive or mystical profession anymore; it’s a documented craft that anyone with skilled hands and a good dose of confidence and boldness can pick up. I use the term “boldness” because many of the most impressive tricks are really quite simple, which might discourage timid or self-conscious individuals from attempting them for fear of being caught. But human nature is so easily fooled that a skilled magician can always find someone to “force a card upon,” even if that person believes they've made their own choice. At the request of many friends, I’ll wrap up this book by sharing a few tricks that anyone can learn with just a bit of practice and minimal equipment—stuff you can usually find around the house or get for very little money. The task I’ve set for myself might seem easy, but as you might expect, it’s actually quite challenging. In trying to share tricks that haven’t already been thoroughly detailed in other magic books, I’ve discovered that almost every parlor trick has already been explained. So, it’s genuinely tough—almost impossible—to present tricks that haven’t been revealed before. Nevertheless, I’ve done my best, and the following simple illusions that aspiring magicians can confidently perform will allow them to entertain friends and family wonderfully. Before I wrap up this section on magic and 559 conjuring, I want to share that my goal in the previous chapters was, first, to show the reader that magic is essentially the art of clever illusion; through quick execution and a solid understanding of mechanics and optics, a magician can lead the audience to deceive themselves; second, to provide some entertainment for my readers; and third, to inspire the inventive minds to unravel the secrets of this craft based on the ideas I’ve offered in these chapters. I believe, based on the feedback I’ve received, that I have successfully achieved all these goals. Now, let’s get into some parlor tricks.

I. A Surprise.—You produce a bottle, which you ask a person to hold, inviting him to partake of a glass of the fluid contents. You give him a glass, and when he attempts to pour it out, lo! he finds that in a few seconds the contents has frozen! To perform this you must previously make a saturated solution of sulphate of soda and hot water, and fill therewith a clean white bottle, taking care to cork the bottle while the liquid is hot. The liquid remains in a fluid state so long as the bottle is corked. You show that the bottle contains a liquid, and in handing it to the person be careful to take out the cork. In order to give the preparation time to solidify, pretend to be looking about for a tumbler, and make some remarks about a sudden chill; or you can feel the hand holding the glass, and suggest that it is very cold. In the meantime, the air acting upon the solution has caused it to become fixed and immovable, and when the person attempts to pour it out, he finds it impossible to do so.

I. A Surprise.—You bring out a bottle and ask someone to hold it while inviting them to enjoy a glass of its contents. You give them a glass, and when they try to pour it out, suddenly! They discover that the liquid has frozen! To do this, you need to create a saturated solution of sulfuric soda and hot water, and fill a clean white bottle with it, making sure to cork the bottle while the liquid is still hot. The liquid will stay in its fluid state as long as the bottle remains corked. You show that the bottle contains liquid and, when handing it to the person, carefully remove the cork. To give the preparation time to solidify, you can pretend to look for a glass and make comments about a sudden chill, or you might feel the hand holding the glass and mention that it feels very cold. Meanwhile, the air acting on the solution will cause it to become solid and unmovable, and when the person tries to pour it out, they will find it impossible to do so.

II. Indian Sand Trick.—This trick has been made famous by the Hindoos, who for many centuries contrived to retain the secret. It consists of placing ordinary sand in a basin full of water, stirring the water and taking out the sand in handfuls, perfectly dry. It need scarcely be said that without previous preparation it is impossible to effect this. Take two pounds of fine silver sand, place it in a frying-pan, and heat well over a clear fire. When the sand is thoroughly heated place a small piece of grease—the composition of a paraffin candle preferred—among the sand, stirring it well up to get it thoroughly mixed. Then let the sand get cold. You place into a basin of cold water two or three handfuls, then stir the water well. It will be found that the sand repels the water, and can be drawn out perfectly dry. It is very important that only a small portion of grease560 be used, so that when you hand round the sand for examination its presence may not be observed.

II. Indian Sand Trick.—This trick became famous through the Hindoos, who managed to keep the secret for many centuries. It involves putting regular sand in a basin of water, stirring it, and then pulling out handfuls of sand that are completely dry. It's important to note that without preparation, it's impossible to achieve this. Take two pounds of fine silver sand, put it in a frying pan, and heat it well over an open flame. When the sand is thoroughly heated, add a small piece of grease—preferably from a paraffin candle—into the sand, stirring it well to mix everything together. Let the sand cool down. Next, put two or three handfuls into a basin of cold water and stir it well. You’ll find that the sand repels the water and can be pulled out completely dry. It’s crucial to use only a small amount of grease so that when you pass around the sand for inspection, its presence won’t be noticeable.

III. The “Q” Trick.—This is a very simple and a very telling trick for the parlor. You take a number of coins or counters, and form them into a circle with a tail to represent a Q, as shown in the sketch annexed. You then ask a person to think of a number, and to count that number, commencing from the tail of the Q at B, and counting round the circle. When he has finished he is to count the number back again, but instead of counting the tail of the Q to go round the circle, and you promise to tell him every time at which counter or coin he left off counting. In order that you shall not see him count, you leave the room while he does so. Supposing he selects the number 6; he commences to count from B, and leaves off at C; he then counts again and leaves off at A. Now, while there are three counters in the tail of the Q, whatever number he thinks off, he will always stop at A; so all you have to do is to count the number of counters or coins there are in the tail, and the same number in the circle will always be the coin last counted. You must be careful, when repeating the trick, to add one or two, or take one away from the tail, as always fixing upon the same counter would perhaps expose the trick.

III. The "Q" Hack.—This is a really simple and effective trick for a gathering. You take several coins or counters and arrange them in a circle with a tail to represent a Q, as shown in the attached sketch. Then, you ask someone to think of a number and to start counting that number from the tail of the Q at B, going around the circle. Once they’re done counting, they should count back again, but instead of including the tail of the Q, you promise to tell them where they stopped counting each time. To ensure you don’t see them count, you step out of the room while they do this. Suppose they choose the number 6; they start counting from B and stop at C, then they count back and stop at A. Since there are three counters in the tail of the Q, no matter what number they choose, they will always end up at A. So, all you need to do is count how many counters or coins are in the tail, and the same number in the circle will always be the last counted coin. When you perform the trick again, be sure to add or take away one or two from the tail, as sticking with the same counter could reveal the trick.

IV. The Bleeding Thumb.—This is a very effective trick, but I am afraid, unless my pupil has some little self-sacrifice, and does not mind enduring a trifling pain in order to amuse his audience, this trick will never be performed. Previous to doing it, you puncture your thumb with a needle in one or two places, near the nail. You then assert that you will cut open your thumb and instantly heal it. You take a handkerchief and tightly bind the thumb therewith, keeping the thumb perfectly straight. You ask for a knife—the sharper the better—and, having obtained one, you pretend to cut the thumb, which you bend. This causes the blood to flow from the punctures. The blood spreads along the knife, which looks as though it had cut almost through the thumb. You then wipe the blood away, straightening the thumb, and show that there is no sign of wound or blood.

IV. The Bloody Thumb.—This is a really effective trick, but I’m afraid that unless my student is willing to make a small sacrifice and doesn’t mind feeling a bit of pain to entertain their audience, this trick will never be performed. Before doing it, you poke your thumb with a needle in one or two spots, near the nail. Then you claim you will cut open your thumb and instantly heal it. You take a handkerchief and tightly wrap it around the thumb, keeping it perfectly straight. You ask for a knife—the sharper, the better—and once you have one, you pretend to cut the thumb while actually bending it. This makes the blood flow from the punctures. The blood runs along the knife, making it look like you’ve almost cut through the thumb. Then you wipe away the blood, straighten the thumb, and show that there’s no sign of a wound or blood.

V. The Marked Florin in Oranges.—Previous to performing this trick, get two florins exactly alike, and mark them both similarly.561 Then get two oranges and cut a slit in each. Place them on the table after you have put one of the marked florins inside one of them. Then borrow from the audience a florin, and request the owner of the florin to mark it. You then ask a person in another part of the room to hold it, but giving him your marked florin instead of the borrowed one. Then you go to the table and slip into the other orange the borrowed florin. You ask your audience in which orange they would like the marked coin to be found, remembering that as you face the audience it does not matter which they say—right or left—as your right is their left, and their left your right. Whichever orange they ask for, take the one containing your marked florin. You then ask the party holding the florin if he would be sure to know it again. Then give him the orange to hold on the point of the knife; and in taking the florin from him conceal it in your hand, and say that you will cause it to pass into the orange which he holds. On cutting the orange open he, of course, finds your marked florin, which, on examination, he asserts to be the one held by him. Then say that it would have been totally indifferent which orange was selected; and give the other orange to the person who lent the florin to hold. You then take your marked florin and say that you will cause it to pass in the orange he holds in his hand; and request him to cut it open. He does so, and then perceives his own marked coin in the centre.

V. The Marked Florin in Oranges.—Before doing this trick, get two identical florins and mark them both in the same way.561 Next, get two oranges and cut a slit in each one. Place them on the table after putting one of the marked florins inside one of them. Then, borrow a florin from someone in the audience and ask the owner to mark it. After that, ask a person on the other side of the room to hold it, but give him your marked florin instead of the borrowed one. Then, go to the table and slip the borrowed florin into the other orange. Ask the audience which orange they'd like to find the marked coin in, keeping in mind that as you face them, it doesn’t matter which they choose—right or left—since your right is their left and their left is your right. Regardless of which orange they pick, take the one containing your marked florin. Then, ask the person holding the florin if he would recognize it again. Give him the orange to hold on the knife's point; as you take the florin from him, conceal it in your hand, saying you will make it pass into the orange he’s holding. When he cuts the orange open, he will find your marked florin, which he will confirm is the one he held. Then, mention that it wouldn’t have made a difference which orange was chosen, and give the other orange to the person who lent you the florin. Take your marked florin and say you will make it pass into the orange he’s holding; ask him to cut it open. He does so and discovers his own marked coin inside.

VI. The Chinese Pictures.—This is a very curious and surprising trick. You prepare a number of plain white sheets of paper, intermixed with which are several sheets on which are drawn various Chinese pictures. In showing these sheets to the audience, you take care not to draw out any of the pictures, but only the blank sheets. You then take a jug, having an even top, filled with water, placing the sheets on the top. You then state that the water in the jug has the peculiar quality of drawing, but having been brought from China, can only draw Chinese sketches. You then dexterously reverse the jug, the sheets preventing the water from flowing out. After a few moments you draw out the sketches, and scattering them among the audience, you cause them to think that they have been drawn on the blank sheets. This is a very old trick of the Chinese, who first performed it. You can easily learn to tell which are blank sheets and562 which are the pictures by a simple mark placed on the top or in the corner of the latter.

VI. The Chinese Images.—This is a really interesting and surprising trick. You prepare several plain white sheets of paper, mixed in with a few sheets that have various Chinese pictures on them. When showing these sheets to the audience, you only draw out the blank sheets, making sure not to reveal any of the pictures. Next, you take a jug with a flat top, filled with water, and place the sheets on top of it. You then explain that the water in the jug has a unique ability to draw, but because it comes from China, it can only create Chinese drawings. You skillfully flip the jug upside down, with the sheets blocking the water from spilling out. After a moment, you pull out the sketches and distribute them among the audience, leading them to believe that they were drawn on the blank sheets. This is a very old trick originally performed by the Chinese. You can easily learn to identify which sheets are blank and which ones are pictures by a simple mark on the top or in the corner of the latter.

VII. Bautier’s Great Ink-and-Water Trick.—This trick, first introduced by Bautier, at the Egyptian Hall, London, has, to the best of my belief, never before been explained. It is a remarkably clever deception, and, when dexterously performed, defies detection. It consists in showing a decanter filled with ink and another with water, and while each decanter is held by one of the audience, making the contents of each change places, the ink going into the one containing water, while the pure liquid is found in the one in which the ink was seen. Take two water bottles or decanters, and in one place a tassel of black fleecy wool, just long enough to touch the bottom of the bottle. The tassel must be tied by a knot at the top, and a small piece of string just hanging over the mouth of the bottle, attached to the knot. Then fill the glass with water. The bottle thus prepared looks at a short distance like a bottle of ink, and you have only to tell your audience that it is so to make them believe it. This, I am afraid, is inculcating in the mind of the reader the principle of falsehood—at least Mrs. Grundy might say so; but a professor of magic is doing nothing but telling “crammers” from the commencement to the conclusion of his entertainment. Perhaps this is the reason why it is called the “black art,” and was the cause of so much persecution in the “good old days,” when all was so pure and so virtuous, as the lovers of the beaux temps would have us believe. But pardon this digression. In the other bottle place a weak solution of the proto-sulphate of iron, about a half ounce to about a pint and a half of water. Have ready a bit of pyrogallic acid—about two-thirds of a tea-spoonful, wrapped in a small piece of blotting-paper that has been blacked with ink. Having completed these arrangements, and asserted that you have on the table a bottle containing water and another ink, you borrow a handkerchief, with which you cover the bottle containing the clear solution, and in doing so you slip into it the pyrogallic acid; and in handing the bottle to one of the audience to hold you give the contents a little imperceptible shaking. You then take another handkerchief and place it over the other bottle, which you hand to a person to hold. You then command the contents of each bottle to change places. Then, in removing the handkerchief563 from the ink bottle, you clutch the piece of string and quickly pull out the black wool and throw the handkerchief out of sight, showing the bottle to contain only water. You then ask the person holding the other bottle to remove the covering, when the fluid will be found to be “as black as night.” This trick always causes the greatest astonishment.

VII. Bautier’s Great Ink-and-Water Trick.—This trick, first introduced by Bautier at the Egyptian Hall in London, has, to my knowledge, never been explained before. It’s an incredibly clever illusion, and when done skillfully, it’s hard to detect. It involves showing a decanter filled with ink and another with water, and while each decanter is held by audience members, the contents switch places—the ink goes into the one that had water, while the clear liquid ends up in the decanter that originally had the ink. Take two water bottles or decanters and place a tassel of black fluffy wool in one, long enough to touch the bottom of the bottle. The tassel should be tied with a knot at the top, with a small piece of string hanging over the mouth of the bottle, attached to the knot. Then fill the glass with water. The prepared bottle looks like an ink bottle from a short distance, and just by telling your audience that it is, they'll believe it. I fear this may instill the idea of deceit in the reader’s mind—at least Mrs. Grundy might think so; but a magic performer is just sharing “tricks” from start to finish in their show. Perhaps this is why it’s called the “black art,” and why there was so much persecution in the “good old days,” when everything was supposedly so pure and virtuous, as those who cherish the beaux temps would have us believe. But I digress. In the other bottle, put a weak solution of proto-sulphate of iron, about half an ounce to about a pint and a half of water. Have ready a bit of pyrogallic acid—about two-thirds of a teaspoon, wrapped in a small piece of blotting paper that’s been darkened with ink. Once you’ve set everything up and claimed you have one bottle of water and another of ink, borrow a handkerchief and cover the bottle with the clear solution, slipping in the pyrogallic acid as you do this. When you hand the bottle to an audience member to hold, give it a subtle shake. Then take another handkerchief and place it over the other bottle, which you hand to someone else to hold. Next, you command the contents of each bottle to switch places. Then, as you remove the handkerchief563 from the ink bottle, you grab the piece of string and quickly pull out the black wool and toss the handkerchief out of sight, revealing that the bottle contains only water. You then ask the person holding the other bottle to remove the covering, and the liquid will be found to be “as black as night.” This trick always leaves people amazed.

VIII. Carrying Fire in the Hands.—In performing this extremely simple trick, the audience must not be informed of what it is your intention to do, but it should be done when there is any delay in your other tricks, or some hitch occurs in getting anything you require, and which happens not to be at hand. For filling up a gap in a performance, it will be found extremely useful. In giving an entertainment of magic, always have on your table two burning candles; they are both useful and ornamental, and serve to dispel any idea of the spectators that you cannot perform your tricks in a full light. You go to the table, having previously concealed a piece of paper in your hand between the two middle fingers, and place your hands around the flame, saying it is perfectly possible to retain the heat in the hand, and even carry the flame from one candle to another. You then blow out one of the candles, and quickly place your hands round the other, set fire to the paper in your hand, blow out the candle, quickly light the first and then the second, smothering the flame of the paper in your hand. This trick, when well done, causes great astonishment and surprise.

VIII. Holding Fire in Your Hands.—To perform this very simple trick, don’t let the audience know what you plan to do. Use it to fill in any delays during your other tricks or when you run into issues with props that aren't available. It’s extremely helpful for keeping your performance flowing. When putting on a magic show, always have two burning candles on your table; they’re both useful and decorative, and they help eliminate any doubts from the audience about your ability to perform under bright light. Approach the table with a piece of paper concealed between your two middle fingers. Place your hands around the flame, stating that it’s totally possible to hold onto the heat and even carry the flame from one candle to another. Then, blow out one of the candles and quickly place your hands around the other to light the paper you have hidden in your hand. Blow out that candle, quickly relight the first, and then the second, covering the flame of the paper in your hand. If done well, this trick generates a lot of astonishment and surprise.



Transcriber’s Notes

Punctuation and spelling were made consistent when a predominant preference was found in this book; otherwise they were not changed.

Punctuation and spelling were made consistent when a clear preference was found in this book; otherwise, they were left unchanged.

Simple typographical errors were corrected. Occasional unbalanced quotation marks were corrected when possible. Missing letters and punctuation marks were restored when possible.

Simple typos were fixed. Occasionally, uneven quotation marks were corrected when possible. Missing letters and punctuation marks were restored whenever possible.

Ambiguous hyphens at the ends of lines were retained; occurrences of inconsistent hyphenation have not been changed.

Ambiguous hyphens at the ends of lines were kept; instances of inconsistent hyphenation have not been altered.

Transcriber retained the “Figure” identifications within the illustrations originally on pages 122, 131, and 203. The identifications of all other Figures only appear in the captions.

Transcriber kept the “Figure” labels in the illustrations that were originally on pages 122, 131, and 203. The labels for all other Figures only show up in the captions.

The captionless illustration on Page 1 is a decorative headpiece; captionless illustrations at the ends of chapters are decorative tailpieces.

The illustration without a caption on Page 1 is a decorative headpiece; illustrations without captions at the end of chapters are decorative tailpieces.

Sequence error corrected in the Table of Contents.

Sequence error corrected in the Table of Contents.

In the Appendix, Figures 321–324 originally were numbered 1–4, but were changed here to avoid ambiguity with the figure numbers in the main part of the book.

In the Appendix, Figures 321–324 were originally numbered 1–4, but were changed here to prevent confusion with the figure numbers in the main part of the book.




        
        
    
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