This is a modern-English version of Horse-hoeing husbandry : or, an essay on the principles of vegetation and tillage. Designed to introduce a new method of culture; whereby the produce of land will be increased, and the usual expence lessened. Together with accurate descriptions and cuts of the instruments employed in it., originally written by Tull, Jethro. It has been thoroughly updated, including changes to sentence structure, words, spelling, and grammar—to ensure clarity for contemporary readers, while preserving the original spirit and nuance. If you click on a paragraph, you will see the original text that we modified, and you can toggle between the two versions.

Scroll to the bottom of this page and you will find a free ePUB download link for this book.

Please see the Transcriber’s Notes at the end of this text.

Please see the Transcriber’s Notes at the end of this text.


Cover image

Horse-Hoeing Husbandry:

OR,

OR

An ESSAY on the PRINCIPLES

An ESSAY on the PRINCIPLES

OF

OF

Vegetation and Tillage.

Vegetation & Tillage.

Designed to introduce

Created to introduce

A New Method of Culture;

A New Way of Culture;

WHEREBY

WHEREBY

The Produce of Land will be increased, and the
usual Expence lessened.

The output from the land will increase, and the usual expenses will decrease.

Together with

Along with

Accurate Descriptions and Cuts of the Instruments
employed in it.

Accurate Descriptions and Cuts of the Instruments
used in it.


By JETHRO TULL, Esq;
Of Shalborne in Berkshire.

By JETHRO TULL, Esq;
From Shalborne in Berkshire.


The Fourth Edition, very carefully Corrected.

The Fourth Edition, carefully corrected.


To which is prefixed,

To which is added,

A New PREFACE by the Editors, addressed to all concerned in Agriculture.

A New INTRODUCTION by the Editors, addressed to everyone involved in Farming.




LONDON:

LONDON:

Printed for A. Millar, opposite to Catharine-street
in the Strand.

Printed for A. Millar, across from Catharine-street
in the Strand.

M.DCC.LXII.

AD 762


[iii]

[iii]

THE
PREFACE.

Capital AAs Mr. Tull’s Essay on Horse-hoeing Husbandry has been published some Years, it may be presumed that the World hath by this time formed some Judgment of his Performance; which renders it the less necessary for the Editors of this Impression to say much concerning it. For every Man who has attended to the Subject, and duly considered the Principles upon which our Author’s Method of Culture is founded, is an equal Judge how far his Theory is agreeable to Nature: Though it is but too true, that few have made sufficient Experiments to be fully informed of its Worth.

Capital AA Mr. Tull’s Essay on Horse-hoeing Husbandry has been out for several years now, so it's safe to say that people have formed some opinions about it. This makes it less necessary for the Editors of this edition to say much about it. Anyone who has looked into the topic and carefully considered the principles behind our Author’s method of cultivation can judge how well his theory aligns with nature. However, it is sadly true that few have conducted enough experiments to fully understand its value.

How it has happened, that a Method of Culture, which proposes such Advantages to those who shall duly prosecute it, hath been so long neglected in this Country, may be matter of Surprize to such as are not acquainted with the Characters of the Men on whom the Practice thereof depends; but to those who know them thoroughly it can be none. For it is certain that very few of them can be prevailed on to alter their usual Methods upon any Consideration; though they are convinced that their[iv] continuing therein disables them from paying their Rents, and maintaining their Families.

How it happened that a method of farming, which offers such benefits to those who pursue it properly, has been ignored in this country for so long may surprise those who aren’t familiar with the personalities of the people responsible for implementing it. However, for those who know them well, it is no surprise at all. It is clear that very few of them can be convinced to change their usual ways for any reason, even though they realize that sticking to their current methods prevents them from paying their rent and supporting their families.

And, what is still more to be lamented, these People are so much attached to their old Customs, that they are not only averse to alter them themselves, but are moreover industrious to prevent others from succeeding, who attempt to introduce any thing new; and indeed have it too generally in their Power, to defeat any Scheme which is not agreeable to their own Notions; seeing it must be executed by the same Sort of Hands.

And what’s even more unfortunate is that these people are so attached to their old customs that they not only refuse to change them themselves but also work hard to stop others from succeeding who try to introduce anything new. They generally have the power to undermine any plan that doesn’t align with their own ideas, since it has to be carried out by the same kind of people.

This naturally accounts for Mr. Tull’s Husbandry having been so little practised. But as the Methods commonly used, together with the mean Price of Grain for some Years past, have brought the Farmers every-where so low, that they pay their Rents very ill, and in many Places have thrown up their Farms; the Cure of these Evils is certainly an Object worthy of the public Attention: For if the Proprietor must be reduced to cultivate his own Lands, which cannot be done but by the Hands of these indocile People, it is easy to guess on which Side his Balance of Profit and Loss will turn.

This naturally explains why Mr. Tull's method of farming hasn't been widely adopted. However, since the common farming practices and the low grain prices over the past few years have put farmers in a tough spot, many are struggling to pay their rent and have even given up their farms in some areas. Finding a solution to these problems is definitely something that deserves public attention. If landowners are forced to farm their own land, which can only be done by these uncooperative individuals, it's easy to see which way their profits and losses will go.

This Consideration, together with many others which might be enumerated, hath induced the Editors to recommend this Treatise once more to the serious Attention of every one who wishes well to his Country; in hopes that[v] some may be prevailed upon, by regard either to the public Good or their own private Interest, to give the Method here proposed a fair and impartial Trial: For could it be introduced into several Parts of this Country by Men of generous Principles, their Example might, in time, establish the Practice thereof, and bring it into general Use; which is not to be expected by any other means.

This consideration, along with many others that could be listed, has led the Editors to urge everyone who cares about their Country to take another look at this Treatise; hoping that some may be convinced, whether out of concern for the public good or their own interests, to give the method proposed here a fair and unbiased trial: For if it were adopted in various regions of this Country by people with good principles, their example could, over time, establish this practice and make it widely accepted; which is unlikely to happen through any other means.

It is therefore to such only, as are qualified to judge of a Theory from the Principles on which it is founded, that the Editors address themselves, desiring they will give this Essay another Reading with due Attention: and at the same time they beg leave to remind them how unfit the common Practisers of Husbandry are to pass Judgment, either on the Theory or Practice of this Method; for which Reason it is hoped that none will be influenced by such, but try the Experiment themselves with proper Care.

It is therefore to those who are qualified to evaluate a theory based on its foundational principles that the editors direct their attention, asking them to read this essay again with the necessary focus. At the same time, they kindly remind these readers how unsuitable the average practitioners of farming are to judge the theory or practice of this method. For this reason, it is hoped that none will be swayed by such individuals, but instead will conduct the experiment themselves with appropriate care.

As a Motive to this, it is to be observed that, although the Method of Culture here proposed has made little Progress in England, it is not like to meet with the same Neglect abroad, especially in France; where a Translation of Mr. Tull’s Book was undertaken, at one and the same time, by three different Persons of Consideration, without the Privity of each other: But afterwards, Two of them put their Papers into the Hands of the Third, Mr. Du Hamel du Manceau, of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris, and of[vi] the Royal Society at London; who has published a Book, intituled, A Treatise of Tillage on the Principles of Mr. Tull. The ingenious Author has indeed altered the Method observed by Mr. Tull in his Book; yet has very exactly given his Principles and Rules: But as he had only seen the First Edition of the Horse-hoeing Husbandry, so he is very defective in his Descriptions of the Ploughs and Drills, which in that were very imperfect, and were afterwards amended by Mr. Tull in his Additions to that Essay.

As a reason for this, it's worth noting that, although the method of cultivation proposed here has made little headway in England, it's unlikely to receive the same disregard abroad, especially in France; where a translation of Mr. Tull’s book was taken on simultaneously by three different respected individuals, without any of them knowing about the others. Later on, two of them shared their papers with the third, Mr. Du Hamel du Manceau, of the Royal Academy of Sciences in Paris, and of the Royal Society in London; who published a book titled A Treatise of Tillage on the Principles of Mr. Tull. The clever author did change the method used by Mr. Tull in his book, but he has very accurately presented his principles and rules. However, since he had only seen the first edition of Horse-hoeing Husbandry, he is quite lacking in his descriptions of the plows and drills, which were very imperfect in that edition and were later improved by Mr. Tull in his additions to that essay.

One of our principal Reasons for taking Notice of this Book is, to shew the Comparison this Author has made between the Old Method of Husbandry and the New. By his Calculation the Profits arising from the New, are considerably more than double those of the Old. For, according to him, the Profits of Twenty Acres of Land for Ten Years, amount, at 10d. ¹⁄₂ per Livre,

One of our main reasons for looking at this book is to show the comparison this author has made between the old way of farming and the new one. According to his calculations, the profits from the new method are more than double those of the old method. He states that the profits from twenty acres of land over ten years amount to 10d. ¹⁄₂ per Livre,

  l. s. d.  
By the Old Method, up to 3000 Livres, or 131  5 0 } Sterling.
Using the New Method, to 7650 Livres, or 334 13 9

which makes a prodigious Difference in favour of the latter. As this Computation was made by one who cannot be supposed to have any Prejudice in favour of Mr. Tull’s Scheme, it will naturally find more Credit with the Public than any Comparison made by Mr. Tull himself, or by such as may have an Attachment to his Principles.

which makes a huge difference in favor of the latter. Since this calculation was done by someone who certainly can’t be seen as biased towards Mr. Tull’s plan, it will likely be taken more seriously by the public than any comparison made by Mr. Tull himself or by those who may be attached to his ideas.

[vii]

[vii]

It may probably be expected, that the Editors should take Notice of such Objections as have been made, either to Mr. Tull’s Theory or Practice; but we do not know any that in the least affect his Principles: They stand uncontroverted: Nor are there any to the Practice, which may not be equally urged against every Sort of Improvement. One of the principal which have come to our Knowlege is, its being impracticable in common Fields, which make a great Part of this Country, without the Concurrence of every one who occupies Land in the same Field. But doth not this equally affect the Old Husbandry? For every such Person is obliged to keep the Turns of plowing, fallowing, &c. with the other Occupiers; so that if any of them were inclinable to improve their Lands, by sowing Grass-seeds, or any other Method of Culture, they are now under the same Difficulties as they would be, were they to practise Mr. Tull’s Method. Therefore this is rather to be lamented as a public Misfortune, than to be brought as an Objection to the Practicableness of that Method. Others object, that the introducing this Sort of Husbandry is unnecessary, seeing the Improvements which are made by Grass-seeds are so considerable; besides, that the Returns made by the Fold and the Dairy, being much quicker than those of Grain, engage the Farmer to mix Plowing and Grazing together. But when this is duly considered it[viii] can have no sort of Weight: for is it not well known that, in those Farms where the greatest Improvements have been made by Grass-seeds, the Quantity of Dressing required for the Arable Land often runs away with most of the Profit of the whole Farm? especially when the Price of Grain is low. And if this be the Situation of the most improved Farms, what must be the Case of those which chiefly consist of Arable Land; where most of the Dressing must be purchased at a great Price, and often fetched from a considerable Distance? Add to this the great Expence of Servants and Horses, unavoidable in Arable Farms; and it will appear how great the Advantages are which the Grasier hath over the plowing Farmer. So that it is much to be wished, the Practice of mixing the Two Sorts of Husbandry were more generally used in every Part of the Kingdom; which would be far from rendering Mr. Tull’s Method of Culture useless; seeing that, when it is well understood, it will be found the surest Method to improve both.

It’s expected that the Editors should address some of the objections made against Mr. Tull’s theory or practice; however, we don’t know of any that actually challenge his principles. They remain uncontested. There are no objections to his practice that couldn't be equally raised against any type of improvement. One of the main issues we've come across is that it’s impractical in common fields, which make up a large part of this country, unless everyone who farms the same land works together. But doesn’t this also apply to traditional farming? Every farmer has to coordinate their plowing, fallowing, & c. with the others; if any of them wanted to improve their land by sowing grass seeds or using another method, they would face the same challenges as if they were using Mr. Tull’s approach. Therefore, this should be seen as a public misfortune rather than a valid objection to the practicality of that method. Others argue that introducing this kind of farming is unnecessary since the improvements made with grass seeds are already so significant; additionally, the returns from livestock and dairy are much quicker than those from grain, which encourages farmers to combine plowing and grazing. However, when this is properly considered, it holds no weight. Isn’t it well known that on farms where the most significant improvements have been made with grass seeds, the amount spent on fertilizers for the arable land often takes away most of the farm's profit, especially when grain prices are low? And if this is true for the most improved farms, what must it be like for those that consist mainly of arable land, where most fertilizers have to be bought at high prices and often brought from a long distance? Add to that the high costs of labor and horses, which are unavoidable in arable farming, and it becomes clear how much of an advantage grazers have over plowing farmers. Thus, it is greatly wished that the practice of blending these two types of farming were more widely adopted across the kingdom; this would not make Mr. Tull’s cultivation method useless; when well understood, it will be found to be the most effective method for improving both.

For although Mr. Tull chiefly confined the Practice of his Method to the Production of Grain (which is a great Pity), yet it may be extended to every Vegetable which is the Object of Culture in the Fields, Gardens, Woods, &c. and perhaps may be applied to many other Crops, to equal, if not greater Advantage, than to Corn.

For although Mr. Tull mainly focused his method on producing grain (which is a big regret), it can be applied to every type of vegetable grown in the fields, gardens, woods, &c. It may even be useful for many other crops, potentially providing equal or even greater benefits than with corn.

[ix]

[ix]

In the Vineyard it has been long practised with Success; and may be used in the Hop-Ground with no less Advantage. For the Culture of Beans, Peas, Woad, Madder, and other large-growing Vegetables; as also for Lucern, Saintfoin, and the larger Grasses; we dare venture to pronounce it the only Method of Culture for Profit to the Farmer; seeing that, in all these Crops, one Sixth Part of the Seeds now commonly sown will be sufficient for the same Quantity of Land, and the Crop in Return will be much greater; which, when the Expence of Seeds is duly considered, will be found no small Saving to the Farmer.

In vineyards, this method has been successfully used for a long time and can be applied to hop fields with equal benefits. For growing beans, peas, woad, madder, and other large vegetables, as well as lucerne, sainfoin, and larger grasses, we confidently say it's the best farming practice for profit. This is because, for all these crops, just one-sixth of the seeds typically sown will be enough for the same area of land, and the yield will be much greater. When you take into account the cost of seeds, this approach offers a significant saving for farmers.

Nor should this Method of Culture be confined to Europe: for it may be practised to as great Advantage in the British Colonies in America, where, in the Culture of the Sugar-Cane, Indigo, Cotton, Rice, and almost all the Crops of that Country, it will certainly save a great Expence of Labour, and improve the Growth of every Plant, more than can be imagined by such as are ignorant of the Benefit arising from this Culture. And should the Subjects of Great Britain neglect to introduce this Method into her Colonies, it may be presumed our Neighbours will take care not to be blameable on this Head; for they seem to be as intent upon extending every Branch of Trade, and making the greatest Improvements of their Land, as we are indifferent to both: So that, unless a contrary Spirit be soon exerted, the Balance of[x] Trade, Power, and every other Advantage, must be against us.

This method of cultivation shouldn't be limited to Europe: it can be just as beneficial in the British colonies in America, where cultivating sugar cane, indigo, cotton, rice, and nearly all local crops can definitely save a lot of labor costs and enhance the growth of every plant, more than those unaware of the benefits of this method can imagine. If the subjects of Great Britain fail to adopt this method in their colonies, we can assume our neighbors will make sure not to fall short in this area; they seem just as focused on expanding every aspect of trade and maximizing the productivity of their land as we are indifferent to both. Unless a different attitude is adopted soon, the balance of[x] trade, power, and every other advantage will certainly be against us.

There have been Objections made by some to Mr. Tull’s Method, as if it were practicable only on such Lands as are soft and light, and not at all on stiff and stony Ground. That it hath not been practised on either of these Lands in England we are willing to grant; but we must not from thence infer that it is impossible to apply it to them. For the Hoe-Plough has been very long used in the Vineyards in many Countries, where the Soil is stronger, and abounds with Stones full as much as any Part of this Country. However, though the Use of this Plough may be attended with some Difficulties upon such Land, for Wheat, or Plants of low Growth, whose Roots may be in Danger of being turned out of the Ground, or their Tops buried by the Clods or Stones; yet none of the larger-growing Plants are subject to the same Inconveniencies. Besides, the stronger the Soil is, the more Benefit will it receive from this Method of Culture, if the Land be thereby more pulverized; which will certainly be the Consequence, where the Method laid down by Mr. Tull is duly observed.

Some people have raised objections to Mr. Tull’s method, suggesting it only works on soft, light soils and is not suitable for hard, rocky ground. While we acknowledge that it hasn’t been practiced in either type of land in England, we shouldn’t conclude that it cannot be applied to them. The Hoe-Plough has long been used in vineyards across various countries where the soil is just as tough and filled with stones as some parts of this country. Although using this plough may come with challenges on such land for crops like wheat or low-growing plants—whose roots could get disturbed or tops buried under clods or stones—larger plants don’t face the same issues. Furthermore, the firmer the soil, the more benefits it will gain from this cultivation method, especially if the land is better broken up, which will definitely happen if Mr. Tull’s approach is properly followed.

But as most Instruments, in their First Use, are attended with some Difficulty, especially in the Hands of such as are indocile, the Hoe-plough has been complained of, as cumbersome and unwieldy to the Horse and Ploughman. But perhaps this arises chiefly from the Unwillingness of[xi] the Workmen to introduce any new Instrument: Indeed, seeing little is to be expected from those who have been long attached to different Methods, the surest Way to promote the Use of it, is to engage young Persons, who may probably be better disposed, to make the Trial at their first entering into Business; and then a little Use will make it easy. It is proper to observe here, that the Swing-plough, which is commonly used in the deep Land about London, will do the Business of the Hoe-plough in all Ground that is not very strong, or very stony; and that where it is so, the Foot-plough, made proportionably strong, will completely answer all Purposes. But it must be remembered, that when these are used to hoe Corn, the Board on the Left Hand of the Plough, answering the Mould-Board, must be taken off; otherwise so much Earth will run to the Left Side, as to injure the Crop when it is low.

But like most tools, when they're first used, the hoe-plough can be a bit tricky, especially for those who aren't very skilled. Some people have complained that it's awkward and hard to manage for both the horse and the ploughman. This might mainly stem from the workers' reluctance to adopt any new tools. Since not much can be expected from those who have been set in their ways for a long time, the best approach to encourage its use is to involve younger people who are likely more open to trying something new as they start their jobs; after a bit of use, it will become easier. It's worth noting that the swing-plough, commonly used in the deep soils around London, can perform the same tasks as the hoe-plough in all but the toughest or stoniest ground. In those cases, a foot-plough that's made sturdy enough will do the job perfectly. However, it's important to remember that when using these tools for hoeing corn, the board on the left side of the plough, which acts like the mould-board, needs to be removed; otherwise, too much soil will shift to the left side, which can harm the crop when it's small.

The Drills are excellent Instruments; yet we imagine them capable of some farther Improvement. Parallel Grooves, at about an Inch asunder, round the Inside of the Hopper, would shew the Man who follows the Drill, whether or no both Boxes vent the Seed equally. By an Hitch from the Plank to the Harrow, the latter may be lifted to a proper Height, so as not to be in the Way when the Ploughman turns at the Headland. Two light Handles on the Plank, like those of the common Plough, would[xii] enable the Person who follows the Drill to keep it from falling off the Middle of the Ridge. It may also be useful, in wet Weather, to double the Drills; by which means Two Ridges may be sown at the same time, the Horse going between them: For the Planks of Two Drills, each Plank having one of the Shafts fixed to it, may be joined End for End by Two flat Bars of Iron, one on each Side, well secured by Iron Pins and Screws; and, by corresponding Holes in the Planks and Bars, the Distance between the Drills may be altered, according to the different Spaces between the Ridges.

The Drills are excellent tools; however, we think they can be improved further. Adding parallel grooves about an inch apart on the inside of the hopper would show the person operating the drill whether both boxes are delivering seed evenly. A hitch from the plank to the harrow would allow the harrow to be lifted to a height that keeps it out of the way when the plowman turns at the headland. Two light handles on the plank, similar to those on a regular plow, would help the person following the drill keep it centered on the ridge. It could also be beneficial to double the drills in wet weather, allowing two ridges to be sown simultaneously with the horse moving between them. The planks of two drills, each with one of the shafts attached, can be connected end to end using two flat iron bars, one on each side, secured with iron pins and screws. Additionally, by having corresponding holes in the planks and bars, the distance between the drills can be adjusted to accommodate the different spaces between the ridges.

The Alterations made by the Editors of this Impression are little more than omitting the controversial Parts of the Book, which were judged of no Service to the Reader, as they no-ways affected the Merits of Mr. Tull’s Principles.

The changes made by the editors of this edition mainly involve removing the controversial sections of the book, which were deemed unhelpful to the reader, as they did not impact the value of Mr. Tull's principles.

But as he endeavoured to recommend his Theory by drawing a Comparison between the Old Method of Culture and the New, so we beg leave to annex a Computation of the Expence and Profit of each; for which we are obliged to a Gentleman, who for some Years practised both in a Country where the Soil was of the same Nature with that from whence Mr. Tull drew his Observations, viz. light and chalky. And we chuse to give this the rather, as it comes from one who has no Attachment to Mr. Tull’s Method, farther than that he found it answer in his Trials. We appeal to[xiii] Experience, whether every Article in this Calculation is not estimated in favour of the Common Husbandry; whether the Expence be not rated lower than most Farmers find it, and the Crop such as they would rejoice to see, but seldom do, in the Country where this Computation was made.

But as he tried to promote his theory by comparing the old farming methods with the new ones, we’d like to include a calculation of the costs and benefits of each. We're grateful to a gentleman who practiced both methods for several years in a region where the soil was similar to that which Mr. Tull based his observations on, specifically light and chalky soil. We prefer to share this information, especially since it comes from someone who has no particular loyalty to Mr. Tull’s methods, beyond the fact that he found them effective in his experiments. We refer to[xiii] experience to question whether every element in this calculation isn’t presented in favor of traditional farming; whether the costs aren’t estimated lower than what most farmers encounter, and whether the yield is not something they would be thrilled to see, though they rarely do, in the region where this calculation was made.

In the New Husbandry every Article is put at its full Value, and the Crop of each Year is Four Bushels short of the other; tho’, in several Years Experience, it has equalled, and generally exceeded, those of the Neighbourhood in the Old Way.

In the New Farming method, everything is valued at its true worth, and each year's yield is four bushels less than before; however, over several years of experience, it has matched and usually surpassed the yields of neighboring farms that use the traditional methods.

An Estimate of the Expence and Profit of Ten Acres of Land in Twenty Years.

An Estimate of the Expense and Profit of Ten Acres of Land in Twenty Years.

I. In the Old Way.
First Year, for Wheat, costs 33l. 5s. viz. l. s. d. l. s. d.
First Plowing, at 6s. per Acre   3  0  0  
Second and Third Ditto, at 8s. per Acre   4  0  0  
Manure, 30s. per Acre  15  0  0  
   22  0  0
Two Harrowings, and Sowing, at 2s. 6d. per Acre   1  5  0  
Seed, three Bushels per Acre, at 4s. per Bush.   6  0  0  
Weeding, at 2s. per Acre   1  0  0  
Reaping, Binding, and Carrying, at 6s. per Acre   3  0  0  
   11  5  0
   33  5  0
Second Year, for Barley, costs 11l. 6s. 8d. viz.  
Once Plowing, at 6s. per Acre   3  0  0  
Harrowing and Sowing, at 1s. 6d. per Acre,   0 15  0  
Weeding, at 1s. per Acre   0 10  0  
Seed, 4 Bushels per Acre, at 2s. per Bushel   4  0  0  
Cutting, Raking, and Carrying, at 3s. 2d. per Acre   1 11  8  
Grass-Seeds, at 3s. per Acre   1 10  0  
   11  6  8
   44 11  8
Third and Fourth Years, lying in Grass, cost nothing: So that the Expence of Ten Acres in Four Years comes to 44l. 11s. 8d. and in Twenty Years to 222 18  4
First Year’s Produce is half a Load of Wheat per Acre, at 7l.  35  0  0  
Second Years Produce is Two Quarters of Barley per Acre, at 1l.  20  0  0  
Third and Fourth Years Grass is valued at 1l. 10s. per Acre  15  0  0  
So that the Produce of Ten Acres in Four Years is  70  0  0  
And in Twenty Years it will be[xv] 350  0  0
Deduct the Expence, and there remains clear Profit on Ten Acres in 20 Years by the Old Way 127  1  8
II. In the New Way.
First Year’s extraordinary Expence is, for plowing and manuring the Land, the same as in Old Way  22  0  0
Plowing once more, at 4s. per Acre   2  0  0  
Seed, 9 Gallons per Acre, at 4s. per Bushel   2  5  0  
Drilling, at 7d. per Acre   0  5 10  
Hand-hoeing and Weeding, at 2s. 6d. per Acre   1  5  0  
Horse-hoeing Six times, at 10s. per Acre   5  0  0  
Reaping, Binding, and Carrying, at 6s. per Acre   3  0  0  
The standing annual Charge on Ten Acres is  13 15 10  
Therefore the Expence on Ten Acres in Twenty Years is 275 16  8
Add the Extraordinaries of the First Year, and the Sum is 297 16  8
The yearly Produce is at least Two Quarters of Wheat per Acre, at 1l. 8s. per Quarter; which, on Ten Acres in Twenty Years, amounts to 560  0  0
Therefore, all things paid, there remains clear Profit on Ten Acres in Twenty Years by the New Way 262  3  4

[xvi]

[xvi]

So that the Profit on Ten Acres of Land in Twenty Years, in the New Way, exceeds that in the Old by 135l. 1s. 8d. and consequently is considerably more than double thereof: an ample Encouragement to practise a Scheme, whereby so great Advantage will arise from so small a Quantity of Land, in the Compass of a Twenty-one Years Lease; One Year being allowed, both in the Old and New Way, for preparing the Ground.

So, the profit from ten acres of land over twenty years, using the new method, is more than the old method by 135l. 1s. 8d., which means it's more than double that amount. This is a strong incentive to adopt a plan that offers such significant benefits from a relatively small piece of land over a twenty-one-year lease, with one year set aside for preparing the ground in both methods.

It ought withal to be observed, that Mr. Tull’s Husbandry requires no Manure at all, tho’ we have here, to prevent Objections, allowed the Charge thereof for the first Year; and moreover, that tho’ the Crop of Wheat from the Drill-plough is here put only at Two Quarters on an Acre, yet Mr. Tull himself, by actual Experiment and Measure, found the Produce of his drilled Wheat-crop amounted to almost Four Quarters on an Acre: And, as he has delivered this Fact upon his own Knowlege, so there is no Reason to doubt of his Veracity, which has never yet been called in question. But that we might not be supposed to have any Prejudice in favour of his Scheme, we have chosen to take the Calculations of others rather than his, having no other View in what we have said, than to promote the Cause of Truth, and the public Welfare.

It should also be noted that Mr. Tull's farming method requires no manure at all, although we have included the cost for the first year to address any objections. Furthermore, while the yield of wheat from the Drill-plough is mentioned here as only two quarters per acre, Mr. Tull himself found through actual experimentation that the yield of his drilled wheat crop was nearly four quarters per acre. Since he has presented this fact based on his own knowledge, there is no reason to doubt his honesty, which has never been questioned. However, to ensure we are not perceived as biased in favor of his method, we have chosen to rely on calculations from others rather than his own, as our only goal in what we have discussed is to promote the truth and the public good.

The Wheat and Turnep Drill-Boxes, or the Drill-Plough complete, mentioned in this Treatise, may be had at Mr. Mulford’s in Cursitor-street, Chancery-lane, London.

The Wheat and Turnip Drill-Boxes, or the complete Drill-Plough, mentioned in this Treatise, can be purchased from Mr. Mulford at Cursitor Street, Chancery Lane, London.


[1]

[1]

CHAP. I.
Of Roots and Foliage.

Capital SSince the most immediate Use of Agriculture, in feeding Plants, relates to their Roots, they ought to be treated of in the first Place.

Capital SSince the most direct purpose of Agriculture, which is to nourish plants, involves their Roots, they should be addressed first.

Roots are very different in different Plants: But ’tis not necessary here to take notice of all the nice Distinctions of them; therefore I shall only divide them in general into two Sorts, viz. Horizontal-Roots, and Tap-Roots, which may include them all.

Roots vary significantly among different plants. However, it's not necessary to point out all their subtle distinctions here; so I'll generally categorize them into two types: Horizontal Roots and Tap Roots, which can encompass all of them.

All have Branchings and Fibres going all manner of ways, ready to fill the Earth that is open.

All have branches and fibers spreading in every direction, ready to fill the open Earth.

But such Roots as I call Horizontal (except of Trees) have seldom any of their Branchings deeper than the Surface or Staple of the Earth, that is commonly mov’d by the Plough or Spade.

But such Roots that I refer to as Horizontal (except for Trees) rarely have any of their Branching going deeper than the Surface or Topsoil of the Earth, which is usually disturbed by the Plough or Spade.

The Tap-Root commonly runs down Single and Perpendicular[1] reaching sometimes many Fathoms below.

The taproot usually goes straight down, either vertically or at an angle, sometimes extending several fathoms deep.

[1]In this manner descends the first Root of every Seed; but of Corn very little, if at all, deeper than the Earth is tilled.

[1]This is how the first Root of every Seed grows; however, with Corn, it's not much, if at all, deeper than the plowed Earth.

These first Seed-Roots of Corn die as soon as the other Roots come out near the Surface, above the Grain: and therefore this first is not called a Tap Root; but yet some of the next Roots that come out near the Surface of the Ground, always reach down to the Bottom of the pulveriz’d Staple; as may be seen, if you carefully examine it in the Spring time; but this first Root in Saint-foin becomes a Tap Root.

These first seed roots of corn die as soon as other roots emerge near the surface, above the grain. That’s why this first one isn’t called a tap root. However, some of the later roots that grow close to the surface always reach down to the bottom of the loosened soil, as you can see if you look closely in the spring. But this first root in sainfoin turns into a tap root.

This (tho’ it goes never so deep) has horizontal ones passing out all round the Sides; and extend to several Yards Distance from it, after they are by their[2] Minuteness, and earthly Tincture, become invisible to the naked Eye.

This (even though it goes really deep) has horizontal ones spreading out all around the sides; and they extend several yards away from it, after they become invisible to the naked eye due to their small size and earthy color.

A Method how to find the Distance to which Roots extend Horizontally.

Pl. 6. Fig. 7. Is a Piece or Plot dug and made fine in whole hard Ground, the End A 2 Feet, the End B 12 Feet, the Length of the Piece 20 Yards; the Figures in the middle of it are 20 Turneps, sown early, and well ho’d.

Pl. 6. Fig. 7. is a section of land that has been dug up and prepared in solid, tough ground, measuring 2 feet at Point A, 12 feet at Point B, and stretching 20 yards in length; in the middle, there are 20 Turnips, planted early and well-tended.

Row of turnips

The manner of this Hoing must be at first near the Plants, with a Spade, and each time afterwards, a Foot farther Distance, till all the Earth be once well dug; and if Weeds appear where it has been so dug, hoe them out shallow with the Hand-Hoe. But dig all the Piece next the out Lines deep every time, that it may be the finer for the Roots to enter, when they are permitted to come thither.

The way to hoe should start close to the plants with a spade, then each time after, move a foot further away until the entire area is well dug. If weeds come up in the dug areas, remove them lightly with the hand hoe. Make sure to dig deeply along the edges every time so that the soil is better for the roots to penetrate when they are allowed to grow there.

If these Turneps are all gradually bigger, as they stand nearer to the End B, ’tis a Proof they all extend to the Outside of the Piece; and the Turnep 20 will appear to draw Nourishment from six Feet Distance from its Centre.

If these Turneps are all getting bigger as they get closer to the end B, it shows that they all reach the outer part of the piece; and the Turnep 20 will seem to draw nourishment from six feet away from its center.

But if the Turneps 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, acquire no greater Bulk than the Turnep 15, it will be clear, that their Roots extend no farther than those of the Turnep 15 does; which is but about 4 Feet.

But if the Turneps 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 don't grow any larger than the Turnep 15, it will be clear that their Roots reach no deeper than those of the Turnep 15, which is only about 4 feet.

By this Method the Distance of the Extent of Roots of any Plant may be discover’d.

By this method, you can determine the distance that the roots of any plant extend.

Field of turnips

What put me upon this Method was an Observation of two Lands (or Ridges) drill’d with Turneps in Rows, a Foot asunder, and very even in them; the Ground, at both Ends, and one Side, was hard and unplow’d; the Turneps not being ho’d, were very poor, small, and yellow, except the Three outside Rows, B, C, D, which stood next to the Land (or Ridge) E, which Land being plow’d and harrow’d, at the time the Land A ought to have been ho’d,[3] gave a dark flourishing Colour to these three Rows; and the Turneps in the Row D, which stood farthest off from the new-plow’d Land E, received so much Benefit from it, as to grow twice as big as any of the more distant Rows. The Row C, being a Foot nearer to the new-plow’d Land, became twice as large as those in D; but the Row B, which was next to the Land E, grew much larger yet[2].

What led me to this method was an observation of two Lands (or ridges) that had turnips planted in rows, spaced a foot apart, and very uniform. The ground at both ends and one side was hard and unplowed; the turnips, not being thinned, were very poor, small, and yellow, except for the three outer rows, B, C, D, which were next to the land (or ridge) E. This land had been plowed and harrowed by the time the land A needed to be thinned,[3] giving a rich dark color to these three rows. The turnips in row D, which was farthest from the newly plowed land E, benefited enough to grow twice as large as any in the more distant rows. Row C, being a foot closer to the newly plowed land, became twice as big as those in D; but row B, which was right next to the land E, grew even larger [2].

[2]A like Observation to this on the Land E, has been made in several Turnep Fields of divers Farmers, where Lands adjoining to the Turneps have been well tilled; all the Turneps of the contiguous Lands that were within three or four Feet, or more, of the newly pulveriz’d Earth, received as great, or greater increase, in the Manner as my Rows B C D did; and what is yet a greater Proof of the Length of Roots, and of the Benefit of deep Hoing, all these Turneps have been well Hand-ho’d; which is a good Reason why the Benefit of the deep Pulveration should be perceivable at a greater Distance from it than mine, because my Turneps, not being hoed at all, had not Strength to send out their Roots through so many Feet of unpulveriz’d Earth, as these can through their Earth pulveriz’d by the Hoe, tho’ but shallowly.

[2]A similar observation to this on Land E has been made in several turnip fields by various farmers, where land next to the turnips has been well cultivated; all the turnips in the adjacent land that were within three or four feet, or more, of the newly tilled soil showed the same or even greater growth, just like my rows B C D did. And what’s even more proof of the length of the roots and the benefit of deep tilling is that all these turnips have been hand-weeded. This gives a strong reason why the benefits of deep tilling can be seen at a greater distance than in my case, because my turnips, which weren’t hoed at all, didn’t have the strength to extend their roots through so much unripe soil, while these could reach through their soil that had been stirred up by the hoe, even if just superficially.

This Observation, as ’tis related to me (I being unable to go far enough to see it myself) sufficiently demonstrates the mighty Difference there is between Hand-hoing and Horse-hoing.

This observation, as I’ve been told (since I can't go far enough to see it myself), clearly shows the big difference between hand-hoeing and horse-hoeing.

F Plate 6. is a Piece of hard whole Ground, of about two Perch in Length, and about two or three Feet broad, lying betwixt those two Lands, which had not been plow’d that Year; ’twas remarkable, that during the Length of this interjacent hard Ground, the Rows B, C, D, were as small and yellow as any in the Land.

F Plate 6. is a piece of solid ground, about two perch long and about two or three feet wide, situated between those two fields that hadn't been plowed that year; it was notable that along the length of this hard ground, the rows B, C, D were as small and yellow as any in the field.

The Turneps in the Row D, about three Feet distant from the Land E, receiving a double Increase, proves they had as much Nourishment from the Land E, as from the Land A, wherein they stood; which Nourishment was brought by less than half the Number of Roots of each of these Turneps.

The Turnips in Row D, about three feet away from Land E, grew twice as much, showing that they were getting as much nourishment from Land E as from Land A, where they were planted. This nourishment came from fewer than half the number of Roots of each of these Turnips.

In their own Land they must have extended a Yard all round, else they could not have reach’d the Land E, wherein ’tis probable these few Roots went[4] more than another Yard, to give each Turnep as much Increase as all the Roots had done in their own Land.

In their own land, they must have expanded a yard all around; otherwise, they wouldn't have been able to reach the land E, where it's likely that these few roots extended more than an additional yard, to give each turnip as much growth as all the roots had done in their own land. [4]

Except that it will hereafter appear, that the new Nourishment taken at the Extremities of the Roots in the Land E, might enable the Plants to send out more new Roots in their own Land, and receive something more from thence.

Except that it will now be clear that the new nourishment taken in at the tips of the roots in the land E might help the plants grow more new roots in their own soil and absorb a bit more from there.

The Row C being twice as big as the Row D, must be suppos’d to extend twice as far; and the Row B, four times as far, in proportion as it was of a Bulk quadruple to the Row D.

The Row C is twice as big as Row D, so it must be assumed to extend twice as far; and Row B extends four times as far, given that it was quadruple in size compared to Row D.

A Turnep has a Tap-Root, from whence all these Horizontal Roots are deriv’d.

A Turnep has a taproot, from which all these horizontal roots come.

And ’tis observable; that betwixt these two Lands there was a Trench, or Furrow, of about the Depth of nine or ten Inches, where these Roots must descend first, and then ascend into the Land E: But it must be noted, that some small Quantity of Earth was, by the Harrowing, fall’n into this Furrow, else the Roots could not have pass’d thro’ it.

And it's noticeable that between these two lands there was a trench or furrow about nine or ten inches deep, where these roots had to go down first and then come up into the land E: However, it's important to mention that a small amount of dirt had fallen into this furrow due to the harrowing, otherwise the roots wouldn't have been able to get through it.

Roots will follow the open Mould[3], by descending[5] perpendicularly, and mounting again in the same manner: As I have observ’d the Roots of a Hedge to do, that have pass’d a steep Ditch two Feet deep, and reach’d the Mould on the other side, and there fill it; and digging Five Feet distant from the Ditch, found the Roots large, tho’ this Mould was very shallow, and no Roots below the good Mould.

Roots will follow the open soil, by going down straight, and then coming back up in the same way: I’ve noticed that the roots of a hedge do this when they cross a steep ditch that’s two feet deep, reaching the soil on the other side and filling it in; and when I dug five feet away from the ditch, I found the roots to be large, even though this soil was very shallow, with no roots below the good soil.

[3]A Chalk-Pit, contiguous to a Barn, the Area of which being about 40 Perch of Ground, was made clean and swept; so that there was not the Appearance of any Part of a Vegetable, more than in the Barn’s Floor: Straw was thrown from thence into the Pit, for Cattle to lie on; the Dung made thereby was haled away about three Years after the Pit had been cleansed; when, at the Bottom of it, and upon the Top of the Chalk, the Pit was covered all over with Roots, which came from a Witch-Elm, not more than Five or Six Yards in Length, from Top to Bottom, and which was about Five Yards above, and Eleven Yards from the Area of the Pit; so that in three Years the Roots of this Tree extended themselves Eight times the Length of the Tree, beyond the Extremities of the old Roots, at Eleven Yards Distance from the Body: The annual-increased Length of the Roots was near Three times as much as the Height of the Tree.

[3]A chalk pit next to a barn, covering about 40 perch of land, was cleaned and swept; there was no sign of any vegetation, just like on the barn's floor. Straw was tossed from there into the pit for the cattle to rest on; the dung produced was removed about three years after the pit was cleaned. At the bottom of the pit, on top of the chalk, roots were found covering the area, coming from a witch-elm that was no more than five or six yards long from top to bottom, and about five yards above and eleven yards away from the edge of the pit. In three years, the roots of this tree had extended eight times their length, beyond the ends of the old roots, at an eleven-yard distance from the trunk. The annual growth of the roots was nearly three times the height of the tree.

I’m told an Objection hath been made from hence against the Growth of a Plant’s being in proportion to the Length of its Roots; but when the Case is fully stated, the Objection may vanish. This Witch-Elm is a very old decay’d Stump, which is here called a Staggar, appearing by its Crookedness to have been formerly a Plasher in an old White-thorn Hedge wherein it stands: It had been lopped many Years before that accidental Increase of Roots happened; it was stunted, and sent out poor Shoots; but in the third Year of these Roots, its Boughs being most of them horizontally inclined, were observed to grow vigorously, and the Leaves were broad, and of a flourishing Colour; at the End of the third Year all these Roots were taken away, and the Area being a Chalk-Rock lying uncovered, round the Place where the Single Root, that produced all these, came out of the Bank, no more Roots could run out on the bare Chalk, and the Growth of the Boughs has been but little since.

I’ve heard that there’s been an objection raised here about how a plant’s growth relates to the length of its roots; however, when the situation is fully explained, the objection might disappear. This Witch-Elm is a very old, decayed stump, often referred to as a Staggar, and its crookedness suggests it used to be a Plasher in an old hawthorn hedge where it stands. It had been pruned many years before this random increase in roots occurred; it was stunted and produced weak shoots. But in the third year of these roots, most of its branches were observed to grow strongly, with broad leaves that were vibrant in color. At the end of the third year, all these roots were removed, and the Area consists of uncovered chalk rock, surrounding the spot where the single root that generated all these came out of the bank. Without more roots to extend into the bare chalk, the growth of the branches has been very limited since then.

Wheat, drill’d in double Rows in November, in a Field well till’d before Planting, look’d yellow, when about Eighteen Inches high; at Two Feet Distance from the Plants, the Earth was Ho-plow’d, which gave such Nourishment to ’em, that they recovered their Health, and changed their sickly Yellow, to a lively Green Colour.

Wheat, planted in double rows in November, in a well-prepared field before planting, appeared yellow when it was about eighteen inches tall; at a two-foot distance from the plants, the ground was hoed, which provided them with such nourishment that they regained their health and changed from a sickly yellow to a vibrant green color.

So in an Orchard, where the Trees are planted too deep, below the Staple or good Mould, the Roots, at a little Distance from the Stem, are all as near the upper Superficies of the Ground, as of those Trees, which are planted higher than the Level of the Earth’s Surface.

So in an orchard, where the trees are planted too deep, below the good soil, the roots, a little distance from the trunk, are just as close to the surface of the ground as those trees that are planted higher than the level of the earth's surface.

But the Damage of planting a Tree too low in moist Ground is, that in passing thro’ this low Part, standing in Water, the Sap is chill’d, and its Circulation thereby retarded.

But the problem with planting a tree too low in wet ground is that, when it’s in this low area that stands in water, the sap gets cold, which slows down its circulation.

One Cause of Peoples not suspecting Roots to extend to the Twentieth Part of the Distance which in reality they do, was from observing these Horizontal-Roots, near the Plant, to be pretty taper; and if they did diminish on, in proportion to what they do[6] there, they must soon come to an End. But the Truth is, that after a few Inches, they are not discernibly taper, but pass on to their Ends very nearly of the same Bigness; this may be seen in Roots growing in Water, and in some other, tho’ with much Care and Difficulty.

One reason people don't suspect that roots extend to even a twentieth of the distance they actually do is because they observe these horizontal roots near the plant to be quite thin. If they did thin out in proportion to how they appear there, they would soon come to an end. However, the truth is that after a few inches, they don't noticeably taper but continue to grow to their ends at nearly the same thickness. This can be seen in roots growing in water and in some other cases, though it requires much care and effort.[6]

In pulling up the aforemention’d Turneps, their Roots seem’d to end at few Inches Distance from the Plants, they being, farther off, too fine to be perceiv’d by ordinary Observation.

In pulling up the mentioned Turnips, their roots seemed to stop just a few inches away from the plants, while those farther out were too thin to be seen by a casual look.

I found an extreme small Fibre on the Side of a Carrot, much less than a Hair; but thro’ a Microscope it appear’d a large Root, not taper, but broken off short at the End, which it is probable might have (before broken off) extended near as far as the Turnep Roots did. It had many Fibres going out of it, and I have seen that a Carrot will draw Nourishment from a great Distance, tho’ the Roots are almost invisible, where they come out of the Carrot itself.

I found an incredibly small fiber on the side of a carrot, much smaller than a hair; but through a microscope, it looked like a large root, not tapering, but broken off short at the end. It's likely that it could have extended almost as far as the turnip roots did before it broke off. It had many fibers coming out of it, and I’ve noticed that a carrot can draw nourishment from a great distance, even though the roots are almost invisible where they emerge from the carrot itself.

By the Piece F Plate 6. may be seen, that those Roots cannot penetrate, unless the Land be open’d by Tillage, &c.

By the Piece F Plate 6. can be seen that those roots cannot penetrate unless the land is tilled, &c.

As Animals of different Species have their Guts bearing different Proportions to the Length of their Bodies; so ’tis probable, different Species of Plants may have their Roots as different. But if those which have shorter Roots have more in Number, and having set down the means how to know the Length of them in the Earth, I leave the different Lengths of different Species to be examin’d by those who will take the Pains of more Trials. This is enough for me, that there is no Plant commonly propagated, but what will send out its Roots far enough, to have the Benefit of all the ho’d Spaces or Intervals I in the following Chapters allot them, even tho’ they should not have Roots so long as their Stalks or Stems.

As animals of different species have guts that vary in proportion to their body lengths, it's likely that different species of plants have roots that are different as well. However, if those with shorter roots are more numerous, and since I’ve outlined how to measure their lengths in the soil, I’ll leave the examination of the varying lengths of different species to those willing to conduct further experiments. For me, it’s sufficient to note that no widely cultivated plant fails to grow roots deep enough to benefit from all the available space I designate for them in the following chapters, even if their roots aren’t as long as their stems.

[7]

[7]

And this great Length of Roots will appear very reasonable, if we compare the Largeness of the Leaves (which are the Parts ordain’d for Excretion) with the Smalness of the Capillary Roots, which must make up in Length or Number what they want in Bigness, being destin’d to range far in the Earth, to find out a Supply of Matter to maintain the whole Plant; whereas the chief Office of the Stalks and Leaves is only to receive the same, and to discharge into the Atmosphere such Part thereof as is found unfit for Nutrition; a much easier Task than the other, and consequently fewer Passages suffice, these ending in an obtuse Form; for otherwise the Air would not be able to sustain the Stalks and Leaves in their upright Posture: but the Roots, tho’ very weak and slender, are easily supported by the Earth, notwithstanding their Length, Smalness, and Flexibility.

And this great length of roots makes a lot of sense when we compare the size of the leaves (which are the parts meant for excretion) with the smallness of the tiny roots, which need to be longer or more numerous to compensate for what they lack in size. They are designed to reach deep into the ground to find the nutrients needed to sustain the entire plant; meanwhile, the main job of the stems and leaves is just to receive those nutrients and release into the atmosphere whatever is not suitable for nourishment—a much simpler task that requires fewer channels, which end in a blunt shape. Otherwise, the air wouldn’t be able to support the stems and leaves in their upright position. However, the roots, although very weak and thin, are easily anchored by the soil, despite their length, smallness, and flexibility.

Plants have no Stomach, nor Oesophagus, which are necessary to convey the Mass of Food to an Animal: Which Mass, being exhausted by the Lacteals, is eliminated by way of Excrements, but the Earth itself being that Mass to the Guts (or Roots) of Plants, they have only fine Recrements, which are thrown off by the Leaves.

Plants don't have a stomach or esophagus, which are needed to transport food to an animal. That food, once processed by the lacteals, is eliminated as waste, but the earth itself serves as that food source to the roots of plants. They only have small residues that are expelled through the leaves.

In this, Animal and Vegetable Bodies agree, that Guts and Roots are both injured by the open Air; and Nature has taken an equal Care, that both may be supply’d with Nourishment, without being expos’d to it. Guts are supply’d from their Insides, and Roots from their Outsides.

In this, animal and plant bodies agree that guts and roots are both harmed by exposure to open air; and nature has ensured that both can receive nourishment without being exposed to it. Guts are nourished from within, and roots from outside.

All the Nutriment (or Pabulum) which Guts receive for the Use of an Animal, is brought to them; but Roots must search out and fetch themselves all the Pabulum of a Plant; therefore a greater Quantity of Roots, in Length or Number, is necessary to a Plant, than of Guts to an Animal.

All the nutrients (or pabulum) that guts receive for the use of an animal are brought to them; but roots must search for and gather all the pabulum of a plant themselves. Therefore, a greater quantity of roots, in length or number, is needed for a plant than guts are for an animal.

All Roots are as the Intestines of Animals, and have their Mouths or Lacteal Vessels opening on their outer[8] spongy Superficies, as the Guts of Animals have theirs opening in their inner spongy Superficies.

All Roots are like the intestines of animals and have their mouths or lacteal vessels opening on their outer[8] spongy surface, just like the guts of animals have theirs opening in their inner spongy surface.

The Animal Lacteals take in their Food by the Pressure that is made from the Peristaltic Motion, and that Motion caus’d by the Action of Respiration, both which Motions press the Mouths of the Lacteals against the Mass or Soil which is within the Guts, and bring them into closer Contact with it.

The animal lacteals take in their food through the pressure created by peristaltic motion, which is caused by the action of respiration. Both of these motions push the openings of the lacteals against the content in the intestines, bringing them into closer contact with it.

Both these Motions are supply’d in Roots by the Pressure occasion’d by the Increase of their Diameters in the Earth, which presses their Lacteal Mouths against the Soil without. But in such Roots as live in Water, a Pressure is constantly made against the Roots by the Weight and Fluidity of the Water; this presses such fine Particles of Earth it contains, and which come into Contact with their Mouths, the closer to them.

Both of these movements are caused in roots by the pressure created by the increase of their diameters in the ground, which pushes their nutrient-absorbing openings against the soil outside. However, for roots that are submerged in water, pressure is continually applied to them by the weight and fluidity of the water; this compresses the fine particles of soil within the water that come into contact with their openings, bringing them closer together.

And when Roots are in a till’d Soil, a great Pressure is made against them by the Earth, which constantly subsides, and presses their Food closer and closer, even into their Mouths; until itself becomes so hard and close, that the weak Sorts of Roots can penetrate no farther into it, unless re-open’d by new Tillage, which is call’d Hoing.

And when Roots are in cultivated soil, the Earth exerts a lot of pressure on them, which continually settles and pushes their nutrients closer and closer, even into their mouths; until it becomes so hard and compact that weaker types of Roots can't penetrate it any further, unless it’s loosened again by new tillage, known as hoeing.

When a good Number of Single-Mint Stalks had stood in Water, until they were well stock’d with Roots from their two lower Joints, and some of them from three Joints, I set one in a Mint-Glass full of Salt Water; this Mint became perfectly dead within three Days.

When a decent number of single mint stalks had been in water long enough to develop roots from their two lower joints, and some even from three joints, I placed one in a mint glass filled with salt water; this mint completely died within three days.

Another Mint I put into a Glass of fair Water; but I immers’d one String of its Roots (being brought over the Top of that Glass into another Glass of Salt-water, contiguous to the Top of the other Glass: This Mint dy’d also very soon.

Another mint I put into a glass of clear water; but I submerged one root strand (which was brought over the top of that glass) into another glass of saltwater, next to the top of the other glass: This mint also died very quickly.

Of another (standing in a Glass of Water and Earth till it grew vigorously) I ty’d one single Root into a Bag, which held a Spoonful of dry Salt, adjoining to[9] the Top of the Glass, which kill’d this strong Mint also. I found that this Salt was soon dissolv’d, tho’ on the Outside of the Glass; and tho’ no Water reach’d so high, as to be within Two Inches of the Joint which produc’d this Root: The Leaves of all these were salt as Brine to the Taste.

Of another (standing in a glass of water and soil until it thrived), I tied one single root into a bag that held a spoonful of dry salt, placed near the top of the glass, which killed this strong mint as well. I noticed that the salt quickly dissolved, even though it was on the outside of the glass, and although no water reached as high as within two inches of the joint that produced this root: The leaves of all these were as salty as brine to the taste.

Of another, I put an upper Root into a small Glass of Ink, instead of a Bag of Salt, in the Manner above-mention’d; this Plant was also kill’d by some of the Ink Ingredients. The Blackness was not communicated to the Stalk, or Leaves, which inclin’d rather to a yellowish Colour as they died, which seem’d owing to the Copperas.

Of another, I placed an upper root into a small glass of ink, instead of a bag of salt, as mentioned earlier; this plant also died from some of the ink ingredients. The blackness did not transfer to the stalk or leaves, which turned a yellowish color as they died, seemingly due to the copperas.

I made a very strong Liquor with Water, and bruised Seeds of Wild-Garlick, and, filling a Glass therewith, plac’d the Top of it close to the Top of another Glass, having in it a Mint, two or three of whose upper Roots, put into this stinking Liquor, full of the bruised Seeds, and there remaining, it kill’d the Mint in some time; but it was much longer in dying than the others were with Salt and Ink. It might be, because these Roots in the Garlick were very small, and did not bear so great a Proportion to their whole System of Roots, as the Roots, by which the other Mints were poison’d, did to theirs.

I made a really strong liquor with water and crushed seeds of wild garlic. I filled a glass with it and placed the top of that glass close to another glass that had a mint sprig in it. I dropped in two or three of the mint's upper roots into this foul-smelling liquor full of crushed seeds. Eventually, it killed the mint after some time, but it took much longer than the others did when poisoned with salt and ink. This might be because the roots in the garlic were very small and didn't make up a large enough portion of the overall root system like the roots that poisoned the other mints did.

When the Edges of the Leaves began to change Colour, I chew’d many of them in my Mouth, and found at first the strong aromatic Flavour of Mint, but that was soon over; and then the nauseous Taste of Garlick was very perceptible to my Palate.

When the edges of the leaves started to change color, I chewed on a lot of them and initially tasted the strong, aromatic flavor of mint, but that didn’t last long; soon after, the unpleasant taste of garlic became very noticeable to my palate.

I observ’d, that when the Mint had stood in a Glass of Water, until it seem’d to have finish’d its Growth, the Roots being about a Foot long, and of an earthy Colour, after putting in some fine Earth, which sunk down to the Bottom, there came from the upper Joint a new Set of white Roots, taking their Course on the Outside of the Heap of old Roots downwards, until they reach’d the Earth at the Bottom; and then, after[10] some time, came to be of the same earthy Colour with the old ones.

I noticed that when the Mint had been in a glass of water long enough to finish growing, its roots were about a foot long and a brownish color. After I added some fine soil that settled at the bottom, new white roots started to sprout from the upper joint, growing along the outside of the old roots until they reached the soil at the bottom. Then, after a while, they changed to the same brown color as the older roots.

Another Mint being well rooted from Two Joints, about Four Inches asunder; I plac’d the Roots of the lower Joint in a deep Mint-Glass, having Water at the Bottom, and the Roots of the upper Joint into a square Box, contriv’d for the Purpose, standing over the Glass, and having a Bottom, that open’d in the Middle, with a Hole, that shut together close to the Stalk, just below the upper Joint; then laying all these upper Roots to one Corner of the Box, I fill’d it with Sand, dry’d in a Fire-shovel, and found, that in one Night’s time, the Roots of the lower Joint, which reach’d the Water at the Bottom of the Glass, had drawn it up, and imparted so much thereof to those Roots in the Box above, that the Sand, at that Corner where they lay, was very wet, and the other three Corners dry. This Experiment I repeated very often, and it always succeeded as that did.

Another Mint that was well rooted from two joints, about four inches apart; I placed the roots of the lower joint in a deep mint glass with water at the bottom, and the roots of the upper joint in a square box designed for that purpose, sitting above the glass and having a bottom that opened in the middle with a closure near the stalk, just below the upper joint. Then, laying all the upper roots to one corner of the box, I filled it with sand that had been dried in a fire-shovel, and found that in just one night, the roots of the lower joint, which reached the water at the bottom of the glass, had drawn it up and provided so much moisture to the roots in the box above that the sand in that corner where they laid was very wet, while the other three corners remained dry. I repeated this experiment many times, and it always succeeded just like that.

And for the same Purpose I prepar’d a small Trough, about two Foot long, and plac’d a Mint-Glass under each End of the Trough; over each Glass I plac’d a Mint, with half its Roots in the Glass, the other half in the Trough: The Mints stood just upon the Ends of the Trough. Then I cover’d these Roots with pulveriz’d Earth, and kept the Glasses supply’d with Water; and as oft as the white fibrous Roots shot thro’ the Earth, I threw on more Earth, till the Trough would hold no more; and still the white Fibres came thro’, and appear’d above it; but all seem’d (as I saw by the Help of a coarse Microscope) to turn, and when they came above-ground, their Ends enter’d into it again. These two Mints grew thrice as large as any other Mint I had, which were many, that stood in Water, and much larger than those which stood in Water with Earth in it: They being all of an equal Bigness when set in, and set at the same time. Tho’ these two, standing in my Chamber, never had[11] any Water in their Earth, but what those Roots, which reach’d the Water in the Glasses, sent up to the Roots, which grew in the Trough. The vast Quantity of Water these Roots sent up, being sufficient to keep all the Earth in the Troughs moist, tho’ of a thousand times greater Quantity than the Roots which water’d it, makes it probable, that the Water pass’d out of the Roots into the Earth, without mixing at all with the Sap, or being alter’d to any Degree. The Earth kept always moist, and in the hot Weather there would not remain a Drop of Water in the Glasses, when they had not been fresh supply’d in two Days and one Night; and yet these Roots in the Glasses were not dry’d, tho’ they stood sometimes a whole Day and Night thus in the empty Glasses. These two Mints have thus liv’d all one Summer.

And for the same purpose, I set up a small trough, about two feet long, and placed a mint glass under each end of the trough. I put a mint plant over each glass, with half its roots in the glass and the other half in the trough. The mints were positioned right at the ends of the trough. Then I covered these roots with crushed soil and kept the glasses filled with water. Whenever the white fibrous roots pushed through the soil, I added more soil until the trough could hold no more. Still, the white fibers continued to come through and appeared above it; but, as I observed with a basic microscope, they all seemed to turn and, when they reached above ground, the ends re-entered the soil. These two mints grew three times larger than any other mints I had, which were many, that were sitting in water, and they were much bigger than those sitting in water with soil in it. All of them were the same size when planted and planted at the same time. Although these two, sitting in my room, never had any water in their soil other than what the roots, which reached the water in the glasses, sent up to the roots growing in the trough. The large amount of water these roots sent up was enough to keep all the soil in the troughs moist, even though it was a thousand times more than the roots that were watering it. This suggests that the water passed out of the roots into the soil without mixing at all with the sap or being altered in any way. The soil always stayed moist, and in hot weather, there wouldn't be a drop of water left in the glasses if they hadn't been refilled in two days and one night. Yet, the roots in the glasses didn't dry out, even though they sometimes stood for a whole day and night in the empty glasses. These two mints thrived all summer long.

Remarks on the Mints, &c.

Tho’ the Vessels of Marine Plants be some ways fortify’d against the Acrimony of Salt, as Sea-fish are, yet the Mints all shew, that Salt is poison to other Plants.

Though the vessels of marine plants are somewhat protected against the bitterness of salt, like sea fish are, all the mints indicate that salt is toxic to other plants.

The Reason why the Salts in Dung, Brine, or Urine, do not kill Plants in the Field or Garden, is, that their Force is spent in acting upon, and dividing the Parts of Earth; neither do these Salts, or at least any considerable Quantity of them, reach the Roots.

The reason why the salts in manure, brine, or urine don't kill plants in the field or garden is that their effectiveness is used up in interacting with and breaking down the soil particles; also, these salts, or at least any significant amount of them, don't reach the roots.

I try’d Salt to many Potatoes in the Ground being undermin’d, and a few of their Roots put into a Dish of Salt-water, they all died sooner or later, according to their Bigness, and to the Proportions the Quantity of Salt apply’d did bear to them.

I tried salting a lot of potatoes that were buried in the ground, and a few of their roots were put into a dish of salt water. They all eventually died, depending on their size and the amount of salt I used on them.

By the Mints it appears, that Roots make no Distinctions in the Liquor they imbibe, whether it be for their Nourishment or Destruction; and that they do not insume what is disagreeable, or Poison to them, for lack of other Sustenance; since they were very vigorous, and well fed in the Glasses, at the time when the most inconsiderable Part of their Number[12] had the Salt, Garlick, and Ink offer’d to them.

By the Mints, it seems that roots don’t discriminate in the liquid they take in, whether it’s for their nourishment or their destruction; and they don’t consume what is unpleasant or poisonous to them out of a lack of food. They were quite vigorous and well-nourished in the glasses when the smallest portion of their number[12] had the salt, garlic, and ink offered to them.

The sixth Mint shews, that when new Earth is apply’d to the old Roots, a Plant sends out new Roots on Purpose to feed on it: And that the more Earth is given it, the more Roots will be form’d, by the new Vigour the Plant takes from the Addition of Earth. This corresponds with the Action of Hoing; for every time the Earth is mov’d about Roots, they have a Change of Earth, which is new to them.

The sixth Mint shows that when fresh soil is added to old roots, a plant sends out new roots specifically to absorb it. The more soil is provided, the more roots will form, fueled by the new energy the plant gains from the added soil. This relates to the action of hoeing; each time the soil around the roots is disturbed, it provides them with a fresh supply that is new to them.

The seventh Mint proves, that there is such a Communication betwixt all the Roots, that when any of them have Water, they do impart a Share thereof to all the rest: And that the Root of the lower Joint of this Mint had Passages (or Vessels) leading from them, through the Stalk, to the Roots of the upper Joint; tho’ the clear Stalk (through which it must have pass’d) that was betwixt these two Joints, was several Inches in Length.

The seventh Mint shows that there is a connection among all the roots, so when one of them gets water, it shares some of it with the others. The root of the lower segment of this mint had pathways (or vessels) leading through the stalk to the roots of the upper segment, even though the clear stalk in between these two segments was several inches long.

This accounts for the great Produce of long tap-rooted Plants, such as Lusern and St. Foin, in very dry Weather: for the Earth at a great Depth is always moist. It accounts also for the good Crops we have in dry Summers, upon Land that has a Clay Bottom; for there the Water is retain’d a long time, and the lower Roots of Plants which reach it, do, like those of this Mint, send up a Share to all the higher Roots.

This explains the abundant yield of deep-rooted plants like Alfalfa and Timothy in very dry weather: the soil at greater depths is always moist. It also clarifies the good harvests we get in dry summers on land with a clay base; there, water is held for a long time, and the deeper roots of plants that reach it, just like those of this mint, send nutrients up to the upper roots.

If those Roots of a Plant, which lie at the Surface of the Ground, did not receive Moisture from other Roots, which lie deeper, they could be of no Use in dry Weather. But ’tis certain, that if this dry Surface be mov’d or dung’d, the Plant will be found to grow the faster, tho’ no Rain falls; which seems to prove, both that the deep Roots communicate to the shallow a Share of their Water, and receive in Return from them a Share of Food, in common with all the rest of the Plant, as in the Mints they did.

If the roots of a plant that are close to the surface don’t get moisture from deeper roots, they wouldn’t be useful in dry weather. However, it’s clear that if the dry surface is disturbed or fertilized, the plant grows faster, even without rain. This suggests that the deep roots share some of their water with the shallow ones and, in return, receive some nutrients from them, just like they do in mints.

[13]

[13]

The two last Mints shew, that when the upper Roots have Moisture (as they had in the Earth in the Trough, carried thither first by the lower Roots) they impart some of it to the lower, else these could not have continu’d plump and fresh, as they did for 24 Hours in the empty Glass. And I have since observed them to do so, in the cooler Season of the Year, for several Weeks together, without any other Water, than what the upper Roots convey’d to them, from the moist Earth above in the Trough[4]. I know not what Time these Roots might continue to be supply’d thus in the hot Weather, because I did not try any longer, for fear of killing them.

The last two Mints show that when the upper roots have moisture (as they did in the soil in the trough, brought there first by the lower roots), they share some of that moisture with the lower roots; otherwise, these wouldn’t have stayed plump and fresh for 24 hours in the empty glass. I’ve also noticed them doing this during the cooler months for several weeks without any additional water, just what the upper roots brought down from the moist soil above in the trough[4]. I’m not sure how long these roots could keep getting this moisture during hot weather, because I didn’t test it any longer for fear of harming them.

[4]’Tis certain, that Roots and other Chyle Vessels of a Plant have a free Communication throughout all their Cavities, and the Liquor in them will run towards that Part where there is least Resistance; and such is that which is the most empty, whether it be above or below; for there are no Valves that can hinder the Descent or Ascent of Liquor in these Vessels, as appears by the growing of a Plant in an inverted Posture.

[4]It's clear that the roots and other nutrient vessels of a plant have an open connection throughout all their cavities, and the fluid inside will flow toward the area with the least resistance; this means it will move to wherever is emptiest, whether that's above or below. There are no valves that can block the flow of liquid in these vessels, as demonstrated by how a plant can grow when turned upside down.

But it must be noted, that the Depth of the Glass protected the Roots therein from the Injury of the Motion of the free Air, which would have dry’d them, if they had been out of the Glass.

But it should be noted that the depth of the glass protected the roots inside from the damage caused by the movement of the free air, which would have dried them out if they had been outside the glass.

In this Trough is shewn most of the Hoing Effects; viz. That Roots, by being broken off near the Ends, increase their Number, and send out several where one is broken off.

In this Trough, most of the Hoing Effects are shown; namely that when roots are broken off near the ends, they increase in number and send out several new ones where one has been broken off.

That the Roots increase their Fibres every time the Earth is stirr’d about them.

That the roots grow more fibers every time the ground is disturbed around them.

That the stirring the Earth makes the Plants grow the faster.

That the movement of the Earth makes the plants grow faster.

Leaves are the Parts or Bowels of a Plant, which perform the same Office to Sap, as the Lungs of an Animal do to Blood; that is, they purify or cleanse it of the Recrements, or fuliginous Steams, received in the Circulation, being the unfit Parts of the Food; and perhaps some decay’d Particles, which fly off the[14] Vessels, through which Blood and Sap do pass respectively.

Leaves are the parts of a plant that function like the lungs of an animal do for blood; they purify or cleanse sap by removing impurities or harmful substances that are picked up during circulation, which are the unsuitable parts of the food, and maybe some decayed particles that come off the[14] vessels through which blood and sap flow.

Besides which Use, the Nitro-aerous Particles may there enter, to keep up the vital Ferment or Flame.

Besides, the nitro-aerous particles may also enter to sustain the vital ferment or flame.

Mr. Papin shews, that Air will pass in at the Leaves, and out thro’ the Plant at the Roots, but Water will not pass in at the Leaves; and that if the Leaves have no Air, a Plant will die; but if the Leaves have Air, tho’ the Root remain in Water in vacuo, the Plant will live and grow.

Mr. Papin shows that air enters through the leaves and exits through the roots of the plant, but water does not enter through the leaves. If the leaves lack air, the plant will die; however, if the leaves have air, even if the roots are submerged in water in vacuo, the plant will survive and grow.

Dr. Grew, in his Anatomy of Plants, mentions Vessels, which he calls, Net-work, Cobweb, Skeins of Silk, &c. but above all, the Multitude of Air-Bladders in them, which I take to be of the same Use in Leaves, as the Vesiculæ are in Lungs. Leaves being as Lungs inverted, and of a broad and thin Form; their Vesiculæ are in Contact with the free open Air, and therefore have no need of Trachea, or Bronchia, nor of Respiration.

Dr. Grew, in his Anatomy of Plants, talks about vessels, which he refers to as a net-like structure, cobwebs, and silk threads, &c. but most importantly, the many air bladders in them, which I believe serve the same purpose in leaves as the vesicles do in lungs. Leaves are like inverted lungs, having a broad and thin shape; their vesicles are in contact with the open air, so they don't need trachea or bronchi or the process of respiration.


CHAP. 2.
Of Food of Plants.

The chief Art of an Husbandman is to feed Plants to the best Advantage; but how shall he do that, unless he knows what is their Food? By Food is meant that Matter, which, being added and united to the first Stamina of Plants, or Plantulæ, which were made in little at the Creation, gives them, or rather is their Increase.

The main skill of a farmer is to nourish plants optimally; but how can he achieve that without understanding what they need for sustenance? By "food," we refer to the material that, when added and combined with the original stamina of plants, or plantules, created in miniature at the beginning, contributes to their growth or, more accurately, is their growth.

’Tis agreed, that all the following Materials contribute, in some manner, to the Increase of Plants; but ’tis disputed which of them is that very Increase or Food. 1. Nitre. 2. Water. 3. Air. 4. Fire. 5. Earth.

It is agreed that all the following materials contribute in some way to the growth of plants, but there is debate about which of them is the true source of that growth or nourishment. 1. Nitre. 2. Water. 3. Air. 4. Fire. 5. Earth.

[15]

[15]

I will not mention, as a Food, that acid Spirit of the Air, so much talk’d of; since by its eating asunder Iron Bars it appears too much of the Nature of Aqua Fortis, to be a welcome Guest alone to the tender Vessels of the Roots of Plants.

I won’t bring up that acidic essence of the Air, which has been talked about so much; since its ability to eat away at iron bars makes it seem too much like Aqua Fortis to be a friendly visitor to the delicate vessels of plant roots.

Nitre is useful to divide and prepare the Food, and may be said to nourish Vegetables in much the same Manner as my Knife nourishes me, by cutting and dividing my Meat: But when Nitre is apply’d to the Root of a Plant, it will kill it as certainly as a Knife misapply’d will kill a Man: Which proves, that Nitre is, in respect of Nourishment, just as much the Food of Plants, as White Arsenick is the Food of Rats. And the same may be said of Salts.

Nitre is useful for breaking down and preparing food, and it can be said to nourish vegetables in much the same way that my knife nourishes me by cutting up my meat. But when Nitre is applied to the root of a plant, it will kill it just as surely as a wrongly used knife can kill a person. This shows that, in terms of nourishment, Nitre is as much the food of plants as White Arsenic is the food of rats. The same applies to salts.

Water, from Van-Helmont’s Experiment, was by some great Philosophers thought to be it. But these were deceived, in not observing, that Water has always in its Intervals a Charge of Earth, from which no Art can free it. This Hypothesis having been fully confuted by Dr. Woodward, no body has, that I know of, maintain’d it since: And to the Doctor’s Arguments I shall add more in the Article of Air.

Water, from Van-Helmont's experiment, was believed by some prominent philosophers to be it. But they were misled by not noticing that water always contains a trace of earth, which no method can remove. This hypothesis has been completely disproven by Dr. Woodward, and as far as I know, no one has defended it since. In addition to the doctor’s arguments, I will provide more insights in the section on air.

Air, because its Spring, &c. is as necessary to the Life of Vegetables, as the Vehicle of Water is; some modern Virtuosi have affirm’d, from the same and worse Arguments than those of the Water-Philosophers, that Air is the Food of Plants. Mr. Bradley being the chief, if not only Author, who has publish’d this Phantasy, which at present seems to get Ground, ’tis fit he should be answer’d: And this will be easily done, if I can shew, that he has answer’d this his own Opinion, by some or all of his own Arguments.

Air, since it's spring, &c. is as essential for the life of plants as the medium of water is; some modern experts have claimed, using arguments that are as flawed as those of the water theorists, that air is the food of plants. Mr. Bradley, being the main, if not the only, author who has published this idea, which currently seems to be gaining traction, should be addressed: And this can be easily accomplished if I can show that he has countered his own opinion with some or all of his own arguments.

His first is, that of Helmont, and is thus related in Mr. Bradley’s general Treatise of Husbandry and Gardening, Vol. I. p. 36. ‘Who dry’d Two hundred Pounds of Earth, and planted a Willow of Five Pounds Weight in it, which he water’d with[16] Rain, or distill’d Water; and to secure it from any other Earth getting in, he covered it with a perforated Tin Cover. Five Years after, weighing the Tree, with all the Leaves it had borne in that Time, he found it to weigh One hundred Sixty-nine Pounds Three Ounces; but the Earth was only diminish’d about two Ounces in its Weight.’

His first example is that of Helmont, and is described in Mr. Bradley’s general Treatise on Husbandry and Gardening, Vol. I. p. 36. ‘He dried Two hundred Pounds of Soil and planted a Willow that weighed Five Pounds in it, which he watered with[16] Rain or distilled Water; to prevent any other soil from getting in, he covered it with a perforated Tin Cover. Five Years later, when he weighed the Tree, along with all the Leaves it had grown during that time, he found it weighed One hundred Sixty-nine Pounds Three Ounces; however, the soil had only lost about two Ounces in weight.’

On this Experiment Mr. Bradley grounds his Airy Hypothesis. But let it be but examined fairly, and see what may be thence inferr’d.

On this experiment, Mr. Bradley bases his airy hypothesis. But let it be examined fairly, and let's see what can be inferred from it.

The Tin Cover was to prevent any other Earth from getting in. This must also prevent any Earth from getting out, except what enter’d the Roots, and by them pass’d into the Tree.

The Tin Cover was meant to keep any other Earth out. It must also stop any Earth from getting out, except for what entered the Roots and passed through them into the Tree.

A Willow is a very thirsty Tree, and must have drank in Five Years time several Tuns of Water, which must necessarily carry in its Interstices a great Quantity of Earth (probably many times more than the Tree’s[5] Weight, which could not get out, but by the Roots of the Willow.

A willow tree drinks a lot of water and must have consumed several tons over five years. This would naturally hold a significant amount of soil in its spaces, likely many times more than the tree's weight, which couldn't escape except through the willow's roots.

[5]The Body of an Animal receives a much less Increase in Weight than its Perspirations amount to, as Sanctorius’s Static-Chair demonstrates.

[5]The body of an animal gains significantly less weight than the amount of fluid it loses through sweating, as Sanctorius's Static-Chair shows.

Therefore the Two hundred Pounds of Earth not being increased, proves that so much Earth as was poured in with the Water, did enter the Tree.

Therefore, the two hundred pounds of soil not being increased proves that the amount of soil mixed with the water did enter the tree.

Whether the Earth did enter to nourish the Tree, or whether only in order to pass through it (by way of Vehicle to the Air), and leave the Air behind for the Augment of the Willow, may appear by examining the Matter of which the Tree did consist.

Whether the Earth came to nourish the Tree, or if it was just to pass through it (as a way to reach the Air), leaving the Air behind for the growth of the Willow, can be determined by looking at what the Tree is made of.

If the Matter remaining after the Corruption or Putrefaction of the Tree be Earth, will it not be a Proof, that the Earth remained in it, to nourish and augment it? for it could not leave what it did not first take, nor be augmented by what pass’d through it. According to Aristotle’s Doctrine, and Mr. Bradley’s[17] too, in Vol. I. pag. 72. “Putrefaction resolves it again into Earth, its first Principle.”

If the material left after the decay or rot of the tree is soil, doesn't that show that the soil was present in it to nourish and help it grow? It couldn't have left behind something it didn't first take in, nor could it have grown from something that passed through it. According to Aristotle's theory, and Mr. Bradley's as well, in Vol. I. p. 72, “Decay breaks it down again into soil, its original component.”

The Weight of the Tree, even when green, must consist of Earth and Water. Air could be no Part of it, because Air being of no greater specific Gravity than the incumbent Atmosphere, could not be of any Weight in it; therefore was no Part of the One hundred Sixty-nine Pounds Three Ounces.

The weight of the tree, even when it's alive, must include Earth and Water. Air can’t be part of it because air, having no greater specific gravity than the surrounding atmosphere, wouldn’t contribute any weight; therefore, it wasn’t part of the one hundred sixty-nine pounds three ounces.

Nature has directed Animals and Vegetables to seek what is most necessary to them. At the Time when the Fœtus has a Necessity of Respiration, ’tis brought forth into the open Air, and then the Lungs are filled with Air. As soon as a Calf, Lamb, &c. is able to stand, it applies to the Teat for Food, without any Teaching. In like manner Mr. Bradley remarks, in his Vol. I. pag. 10. ‘That almost every Stem and every Root are formed in a bending manner under Ground; and yet all these Stems become strait and upright when they come above-ground, and meet the Air; and most Roots run as directly downwards, and shun the Air as much as possible.’

Nature has guided animals and plants to seek what they need most. When a fetus needs to breathe, it is born into the open air, allowing its lungs to fill with air. As soon as a calf, lamb, etc., can stand, it instinctively goes to the teat for food without any instruction. Similarly, Mr. Bradley points out in his Vol. I. pag. 10, that almost every stem and every root forms in a bending way underground; however, all these stems grow straight and upright when they come above ground and encounter the air, while most roots grow directly downwards, avoiding the air as much as possible.

Can any thing more plainly shew the Intent of Nature, than this his Remark does? viz. That the Air is most necessary to the Tree above ground, to purify the Sap by the Leaves, as the Blood of Animals is depurated by their Lungs: And that Roots seek the Earth for their Food, and shun the Air, which would dry up and destroy them.

Can anything more clearly show Nature's purpose than this observation? That air is essential for the tree above ground to purify the sap through the leaves, just as an animal's blood is cleansed by its lungs. Meanwhile, roots seek food in the earth and avoid the air, which would dry them out and harm them.

No one Truth can possibly contradict or interfere with any other Truth; but one Error may contradict and interfere with another Error, viz.

No single Truth can contradict or conflict with any other Truth; however, one Error can contradict and conflict with another Error, viz.

Mr. Bradley, and all Authors, I think, are of Opinion, that Plants of different Natures are fed by a different Sort of Nourishment; from whence they aver, that a Crop of Wheat takes up all that is peculiar to that Grain; then a Crop of Barley all that is proper to it; next a Crop of Pease, and so on, ’till each has drawn off all those Particles which are proper[18] to it; and then no more of these Grains will grow in that Land, till by Fallow, Dung, and Influences of the Heavens, the Earth will be again replenish’d with new Nourishment, to supply the same Sorts of Corn over again. This, if true (as they all affirm it to be), would prove, that the Air is not the Food of Vegetables. For the Air being in itself so homogeneous as it is, could never afford such different Matter as they imagine; neither is it probable, that the Air should afford the Wheat Nourishment more one Year, than the ensuing Year; or that the same Year it should nourish Barley in one Field, Wheat in another, Pease in a Third; but that if Barley were sown in the Third, Wheat in the First, Pease in the Second, all would fail: Therefore this Hypothesis of Air for Food interferes with, and contradicts this Doctrine of Necessity of changing Sorts.

Mr. Bradley and all authors seem to agree that different types of plants require different kinds of nourishment. They claim that a crop of wheat absorbs everything specific to that grain; then a crop of barley takes what it needs; followed by peas, and so on, until each crop has extracted all the nutrients suited to it. After that, no more of these grains can grow in that land until it has been fallowed, fertilized, and the heavens have provided new nourishment to support those same types of crops again. If this is true (as they all insist it is), it would suggest that air is not the food for plants. Since air is so uniform, it couldn’t possibly provide such varied material as they think. It’s also unlikely that air would provide nourishment for wheat one year and then do the same for barley in another field the following year, or even in the same year nourish barley in one field, wheat in another, and peas in a third; if barley were planted in that third field, wheat in the first, and peas in the second, all would fail. Therefore, this air-as-food hypothesis contradicts the necessity of rotating different types of crops.

I suppose, by Air, they do not mean dry Particles of Earth, and the Effluvia which float in the Air: The Quantity of these is too small to augment Vegetables to that Bulk they arrive at. By that way of speaking they might more truly affirm this of Water, because it must be like to carry a greater Quantity of Earth than Air doth, in proportion to the Difference of their different specific Weight; Water, being about 800 times heavier than Air, is likely to have 800 times more of that terrestrial Matter in it; and we see this is sufficient to maintain some Sort of Vegetables, as Aquatics; but the Air, by its Charge of Effluvia, &c. is never able to maintain or nourish any Plant; for as to the Sedums, Aloes, and all others, that are supposed to grow suspended in the Air, ’tis a mere Fallacy; they seem to grow, but do not; since they constantly grow lighter; and tho’ their Vessels may be somewhat distended by the Ferment of their own Juices which they received in the Earth, yet suspended in Air, they continually diminish in Weight (which is the true Argument of a Plant) until they grow to[19] nothing. So that this Instance of Sedums, &c. which they pretend to bring for Proof of this their Hypothesis, is alone a full Confutation of it.

I guess when they talk about Air, they don’t mean the dry particles of Earth and the substances that float in the Air. There’s too little of that to help plants grow to the size they do. They could more accurately say this about Water, since it likely carries more Earth in proportion to the difference in their specific weights; Water is about 800 times heavier than Air, so it's probably got 800 times more of that earthly material in it. We see this is enough to support some types of plants, like aquatic ones; but Air, with its mix of substances, can never support or nourish any plant. As for plants like Sedums, Aloes, and others that are said to grow suspended in Air, it’s a total misconception; they appear to grow, but they really don’t. They keep getting lighter, and even though their vessels may be somewhat swollen from the fermentation of their own juices that they got from the Earth, while suspended in Air, they continually lose weight (which is the real measure of a plant) until they basically disappear. So, this example of Sedums, and so on, that they claim proves their theory actually completely disproves it.

Yet if granted, that Air could nourish some Vegetables by the earthy Effluvia, &c. which it carry’d with it[6]; even that would be against them, not for them.

Yet if it's true that air could nourish some vegetables with the earthy substances it carries, &c. that would still be against them, not for them.

[6]This is meant of dry Earth, by its Lightness (when pulveriz’d extremely fine) carried in the Air without Vapour: For the Atmosphere, consisting of all the Elements, has Earth in it in considerable Quantity, mix’d with Water; but a very little Earth is so minutely divided, as to fly therein pure from Water, which is its Vehicle there for the most Part.

[6]This refers to dry Earth, which, when ground into an extremely fine powder, is carried through the Air without any moisture. The Atmosphere, made up of all the Elements, contains a significant amount of Earth mixed with Water; however, only a tiny amount of Earth is divided so finely that it can travel through the air free from Water, which primarily serves as its carrier.

They might as well believe, that Martins and Swallows are nourish’d by the Air, because they live on Flies and Gnats, which they catch therein; this being the same Food, which is found in the Stomach of the Chameleon.

They might as well think that Martins and Swallows are fed by the air since they eat flies and gnats that they catch in it; this is the same food found in the stomach of the chameleon.

If, as they say, the Earth is of little other Use to Plants, but to keep them fix’d and steady, there would be little or no Difference in the Value of rich and poor Land, dung’d or undung’d; for one would serve to keep Plants fix’d and steady, very near, if not quite as well as the other.

If, as they say, the Earth is mostly just for keeping plants anchored and stable, there wouldn’t be much difference in the value of rich and poor land, manured or not; because either would hold plants in place just about as well as the other.

If Water or Air was the Food of Plants, I cannot see what Necessity there should be of Dung or Tillage.

If water or air was enough for plants to thrive, I don’t understand why we would need fertilizer or farming.

4. Fire. No Plant can live without Heat, tho’ different Degrees of it be necessary to different Sorts of Plants. Some are almost able to keep Company with the Salamander, and do live in the hottest Exposures of the hot Countries. Others have their Abode with Fishes under Water, in cold Climates: for the Sun has his Influence, tho’ weaker, upon the Earth cover’d with Water, at a considerable Depth; which appears by the Effect the Vicissitudes of Winter and Summer have upon subterraqueous Vegetables.

4. Fire. No plant can survive without heat, although different types of plants need different amounts of it. Some can almost thrive alongside the Salamander and live in the hottest areas of warm countries. Others make their homes with fish underwater in colder climates: the sun still has its effects, though weaker, on water-covered ground even at significant depths; this is evident in how the changes between winter and summer affect plants that grow beneath the water.

Tho’ every Heat is said to be a different Degree of Fire; yet we may distinguish the Degrees by their different Effects. Heat warms; but Fire burns: The first helps to cherish, the latter destroys Plants.

Though every type of heat is considered a different degree of fire, we can identify these degrees by their different effects. Heat warms, but fire burns: the former helps nurture, while the latter destroys plants.

[20]

[20]

5. Earth. That which nourishes and augments a Plant is the true Food of it.

5. Earth. What nourishes and helps a plant grow is its true food.

Every Plant is Earth, and the Growth and true Increase of a Plant is the Addition of more Earth.

Every plant is part of the Earth, and the growth and true increase of a plant is the addition of more Earth.

Nitre (or other Salts) prepares the Earth, Water and Air move it, by conveying and fermenting it in the Juices; and this Motion is called Heat.

Nitre (or other salts) prepares the earth, water, and air move it by transferring and fermenting it in the juices; and this movement is called heat.

When this additional Earth is assimilated to the Plant, it becomes an absolute Part of it.

When this additional Earth is added to the Plant, it becomes an integral part of it.

Suppose Water, Air, and Heat, could be taken away, would it not remain to be a Plant, tho’ a dead one?

Suppose we took away Water, Air, and Heat; wouldn't it still be a Plant, even if it was dead?

But suppose the Earth of it taken away, what would then become of the Plant? Mr. Bradley might look long enough after it, before he found it in the Air among his specific or certain Qualities.

But suppose the Earth was taken away, what would happen to the Plant? Mr. Bradley might search for it a long time before he found it in the Air among his specific or certain Qualities.

Besides, too much Nitre (or other Salts) corrodes a Plant; too much Water drowns it; too much Air dries the Roots of it; too much Heat (or Fire) burns it; but too much Earth a Plant never can have, unless it be therein wholly buried; and in that Case it would be equally misapply’d to the Body, as Air or Nitre would be to the Roots.

Besides, too much Nitre (or other salts) can harm a plant; too much water can drown it; too much air can dry out its roots; too much heat (or fire) can burn it; but a plant can never have too much earth, unless it's completely buried in it; and in that case, it would be just as misapplied to the body as air or nitre would be to the roots.

Too much Earth, or too fine, can never possibly be given to Roots; for they never receive so much of it as to surfeit the Plants, unless it be depriv’d of Leaves, which, as Lungs, should purify it.

Too much soil, or soil that’s too fine, can never be too much for roots; they never take in so much that it overwhelms the plants, unless it's deprived of leaves, which, like lungs, should filter it.

And Earth is so surely the Food of all Plants, that with the proper Share of the other Elements, which each Species of Plants requires, I do not find but that any common Earth will nourish any Plant.

And Earth is definitely the nourishment for all Plants, so that with the right proportion of the other Elements that each Plant Species needs, I see no reason why any common Earth wouldn't support any Plant.

The only Difference of Soil[7] (except the Richness) seems to be the different Heat and Moisture it[21] has; for if those be rightly adjusted, any Soil will nourish any Sort of Plant; for let Thyme and Rushes change Places, and both will die; but let them change their Soil, by removing the Earth wherein the Thyme grew, from the dry Hill down into the watry Bottom, and plant Rushes therein; and carry the moist Earth, wherein the Rushes grew, up to the Hill; and there Thyme will grow in the Earth that was taken from the Rushes; and so will the Rushes grow in the Earth that was taken from the Thyme; so that ’tis only more or less Water that makes the same Earth fit either for the Growth of Thyme or Rushes.

The only difference in soil[7] (aside from its richness) seems to be the varying heat and moisture it contains; because if those factors are properly balanced, any soil can support any type of plant. If you swap the positions of thyme and rushes, both will die. But if you change their soil by moving the earth where thyme grew from the dry hill to the wet bottom, and plant rushes there, while taking the moist earth where rushes grew up to the hill, then thyme will thrive in the soil taken from the rushes, and rushes will flourish in the soil taken from the thyme. So, it really just comes down to having more or less water to make the same earth suitable for either thyme or rushes.

[7]As I have said in my Essay, That a Soil being once proper to a Species of Vegetables, it will always continue to be so; it must be supposed, that there be no Alteration of the Heat and Moisture of it; and that this Difference I mean, is of its Quality of nourishing different Species of Vegetables, not of the Quantity of it; which Quantity may be alter’d by Diminution or Superinduction.

[7]As I mentioned in my Essay, that a soil that is suitable for a species of plants will always remain so; it’s assumed that there’s no change in the heat and moisture of the soil; and by this difference, I mean its ability to nourish various species of plants, not the amount of soil; which amount can be changed by reduction or addition.

So for Heat; our Earth, when it has in the Stove the just Degree of Heat that each Sort of Plants requires, will maintain Plants brought from both the Indies.

So for Heat; our Earth, when it has in the Stove the right amount of Heat that each type of Plant needs, will support Plants brought from both the Indies.

Plants differ as much from one another in the Degrees of Heat and Moisture they require, as a Fish differs from a Salamander.

Plants vary widely in the levels of heat and moisture they need, just like a fish is different from a salamander.

Indeed Misletoe, and some other Plants, will not live upon Earth, until it be first alter’d by the Vessels of another Plant or Tree, upon which they grow, and therein are as nice in Food as an Animal.

Indeed Mistletoe and some other plants won't thrive in soil until it's first modified by the vessels of another plant or tree that they grow on, and they are as specific about their nourishment as an animal.

There is no need to have Recourse to Transmutation; for whether Air or Water, or both, are transform’d into Earth or not, the thing is the same, if it be Earth when the Roots take it; and we are convinced that neither Air nor Water alone, as such, will maintain Plants.

There’s no need to rely on Transmutation; whether Air or Water, or both, turn into Earth or not, it doesn’t matter if the Roots utilize it as Earth; we’re sure that neither Air nor Water alone, in their pure forms, can support Plants.

These kind of Metamorphoses may properly enough be consider’d in Dissertations purely concerning Matter, and to discover what the component Particles of Earth are; but not at all necessary to be known, in relation to the maintaining of Vegetables.

These kinds of Metamorphoses can be looked at in essays that focus solely on Matter and to find out what the basic particles of Earth are. However, they are not at all needed for understanding how to maintain plants.


[22]

[22]

CHAP. 3.
Of Pasture of Plants.

Cattle feed on Vegetables that grow upon the Earth’s external Surface; but Vegetables themselves first receive, from within the Earth, the Nourishment they give to Animals.

Cbattle eat plants that grow on the Earth's surface; however, the plants themselves first get their nutrients from within the Earth, which they then provide to animals.

The Pasture of Cattle has been known and understood in all Ages of the World, it being liable to Inspection; but the Pasture of Plants, being out of the Observation of the Senses, is only to be known by Disquisitions of Reason; and has (for ought I can find) pass’d undiscover’d by the Writers of Husbandry[8].

The Pasture of Cattle has been recognized and understood throughout all ages, as it can be easily observed. However, the Pasture of Plants, being beyond the reach of our senses, is only knowable through reasoned inquiry; and as far as I can tell, it has gone undetected by the writers on farming.[8]

[8]When Writers of Husbandry, in discoursing of Earth and Vegetation, come nearest to the Thing, that is, the Pasture of Plants, they are lost in the Shadow of it, and wander in a Wilderness of obscure Expressions, such as Magnetism, Virtue, Power, Specific Quality, Certain Quality, and the like; wherein there is no manner of Light for discovering the real Substance, but we are left by them more in the Dark to find it, than Roots are when they feed on it: And when a Man, no less sagacious than Mr. Evelyn, has trac’d it thro’ all the Mazes of the Occult Qualities, and even up to the Metaphysics, he declares he cannot determine, whether the Thing he pursues be Corporeal or Spiritual.

[8]When writers about farming talk about the earth and plants, they get so caught up in the subject, specifically the pasture of plants, that they lose their way and end up in a maze of confusing terms like magnetism, virtue, power, specific quality, certain quality, and others. There’s no clarity to help discover the real substance; in fact, we're left more in the dark trying to figure it out than roots are when they’re taking nourishment from it. And when a person as insightful as Mr. Evelyn has followed it through all the mazes of the occult qualities and even up to the metaphysics, he admits he can’t decide whether what he’s looking for is corporeal or spiritual.

The Ignorance of this seems to be one principal Cause, that Agriculture, the most necessary of all Arts, has been treated of by Authors more superficially than any other Art whatever. The Food or Pabulum of Plants being prov’d to be Earth, where and whence[9] they take that, may properly be called their Pasture.

The lack of understanding of this appears to be a major reason why agriculture, the most essential of all arts, has been discussed by authors more superficially than any other art. The food or pabulum of plants has been shown to be earth, from which they obtain it, and this can rightly be referred to as their pasture.

[9]By the Pasture is not meant the Pabulum itself; but the Superficies from whence the Pabulum is taken by Roots.

[9]By the Pasture is not meant the Pabulum itself; but the Superficies from where the Pabulum is taken by roots.

This Pasture I shall endeavour to describe.

This pasture I will try to describe.

[23]

[23]

’Tis the inner or (internal) Superficies[10] of the Earth; or which is the same thing, ’tis the Superficies of the Pores, Cavities, or Interstices of the divided Parts of the Earth, which are of two Sorts, viz. Natural and Artificial.

It’s the inner or internal surface of the Earth; in other words, it’s the surface of the pores, cavities, or spaces within the divided parts of the Earth, which come in two types: Natural and Artificial.

[10]This Pasture of Plants never having been mentioned or described by any Author that I know of, I am at a loss to find any other Term to describe it by, that may be synonymous, or equipollent to it: Therefore, for want of a better, I call it the inner, or internal Superficies of the Earth, to distinguish it from the outer or external Superficies, or Surface, whereon we tread.

[10]This area of vegetation has never been mentioned or described by any author I'm aware of, so I'm struggling to find another term that accurately conveys its meaning. Therefore, lacking a better option, I refer to it as the inner or internal surface of the Earth, to differentiate it from the outer or external surface that we walk on.

Inner or internal Superficies may be thought an absurd Expression, the Adjective expressing something within, and the Substantive seeming to express only what is without it; and indeed the Sense of the Expression is so; for the Vegetable Pasture is within the Earth, but without (or on the Outsides of) the divided Parts of the Earth.

Inner or internal Superficies might seem like a ridiculous term, since the adjective suggests something inside, while the noun seems to refer only to what is outside. And in fact, that’s the meaning of the term; the plant life is inside the Earth, but outside (or on the surface of) the divided parts of the Earth.

And, besides, Superficies must be joined with the Adjective Inner (or Internal) when ’tis used to describe the Inside of a thing that is hollow, as the Pores and Interstices of the Earth are.

And, besides, Superficies must be combined with the Adjective Inner (or Internal) when it’s used to describe the inside of something that is hollow, like the Pores and Interstices of the Earth.

The Superficies, which is the Pasture of Plants, is not a bare Mathematical Superficies; for that is only imaginary.

The Superficies, which is the Surface of Plants, is not just a bare Mathematical Surface; that is purely imaginary.

By Nature, the whole Earth (or Soil) is composed of Parts; and, if these had been in every Place absolutely joined, it would have been without Interstices or Pores, and would have had no internal Superficies, or Pasture for Plants: but since it is not so strictly dense[11], there must be Interstices at all those Places where the Parts remain separate and divided.

By nature, the entire Earth (or soil) is made up of parts; and if these parts were completely fused together everywhere, it would lack gaps or pores, and there would be no inner surfaces or space for plants to grow. However, since it's not that tightly compacted [11], there must be gaps wherever the parts stay separate and divided.

[11]For were the Soil as dense as Glass, the Roots or Vegetables (such as our Earth produces) would never be able to enter its Pores.

[11]If the soil were as hard as glass, the roots or vegetables (such as our earth produces) would never be able to penetrate its pores.

These Interstices, by their Number and Largeness, determine the specific Gravity (or true Quantity) of every Soil: The larger they are, the lighter is the Soil; and the inner Superficies is commonly the less.

These gaps, due to their size and number, determine the specific gravity (or actual amount) of every type of soil: the larger they are, the lighter the soil tends to be; and the inner surface is usually smaller.

The Mouths, or Lacteals, being situate, and opening, in the convex Superficies of Roots, they take their Pabulum, being fine Particles of Earth, from the Superficies of the Pores, or Cavities, wherein the Roots are included.

The mouths, or lacteals, located on the curved surface of the roots, absorb their food, which consists of fine soil particles, from the surface of the pores or cavities where the roots are contained.

[24]

[24]

And ’tis certain, that the Earth is not divested or robb’d of this Pabulum, by any other Means, than by actual Fire, or the Roots of Plants.

And it's clear that the Earth isn't stripped or robbed of this Pabulum by any means other than by actual fire or the roots of plants.

For, when no Vegetables are suffer’d to grow in a Soil, it will always grow richer. Plow it, harrow it, as often as you please, expose it to the Sun in Horse-Paths all the Summer, and to the Frost of the Winter; let it be cover’d by Water at the Bottom of Ponds, or Ditches; or if you grind dry Earth to Powder, the longer ’tis kept exposed, or treated by these or any other Method possible (except actual Burning by Fire); instead of losing, it will gain the more Fertility.

Because when no vegetables are allowed to grow in soil, it will always become richer. Plow it, harrow it, as often as you want, expose it to the sun in pathways all summer, and to the frost in winter; let it be covered by water at the bottom of ponds or ditches; or if you grind dry earth to a powder, the longer it’s kept exposed or treated in any other way possible (except by actual burning); instead of losing fertility, it will gain even more.

These Particles, which are the Pabulum of Plants, are so very minute[12] and light, as not to be singly attracted to the Earth, if separated from those Parts to which they adhere[13], or with which they are in Contact (like Dust to a Looking-Glass, turn it upwards, or downwards, it will remain affixt to it), as these Particles do to those Parts, until from thence remov’d by some Agent.

These particles, which are the food of plants, are so tiny and light that they aren’t drawn to the Earth on their own if they’re separated from the parts they stick to or are in contact with (like dust on a mirror; turn it up or down, and it will stay attached), just like these particles do to those parts until they’re removed by some force.

[12]As to the Fineness of the Pabulum of Plants, ’tis not unlikely, that Roots may insume no grosser Particles, than those on which the Colours of Bodies depend; but to discover the greatest of those Corpuscles, Sir Isaac Newton thinks, it will require a Microscope, that with sufficient Distinctness can represent Objects Five or Six hundred times bigger, than at a Foot Distance they appear to the naked Eye.

[12]When it comes to the quality of the Pabulum of plants, it’s quite possible that roots may take in no coarser particles than those responsible for the colors of objects. However, to find the smallest of those particles, Sir Isaac Newton believes that it will be necessary to use a microscope that can clearly display objects five or six hundred times larger than how they appear to the naked eye from a foot away.

My Microscope indeed is but a very ordinary one, and when I view with it the Liquor newly imbibed by a fibrous Root of a Mint, it seems more limpid than the clearest common Water, nothing at all appearing in it.

My microscope is just a regular one, and when I look at the liquid recently absorbed by a fibrous mint root, it appears clearer than the purest water, with nothing at all visible in it.

[13]Either Roots must insume the Earth, that is their Pabulum, as they find it in whole Pieces, having intire Superficies of their own, or else such Particles as have not intire Superficies of their own, but want some Part of it, which adheres to, or is Part of the Superficies of larger Particles, before they are separated by Roots. The former they cannot insume (unless contained in Water); because they would fly away at the first Pores that were open: Ergo they must insume the latter.

[13]Either roots must absorb the Earth, which is their food, as they find it in whole pieces, having their own complete surfaces, or they have to take in particles that don’t have their own complete surfaces and are missing part of it, which sticks to or is part of the surfaces of larger particles before roots separate them. They can’t absorb the former (unless they’re in water) because they would just blow away as soon as the pores are open: Therefore, they must absorb the latter.

[25]

[25]

A Plant cannot separate these Particles from the Parts to which they adhere, without the Assistance of Water, which helps to loosen them.

A plant can't separate these particles from the parts they're stuck to without water, which helps to loosen them.

And ’tis also probable, that the Nitre of the Air may be necessary to relax this Superficies, to render the prolific Particles capable of being thence disjoin’d; and this Action of the Nitre seems to be what is call’d, Impregnating the Earth.

And it’s also likely that the nitrogen in the air may be essential to loosen this surface, allowing the productive particles to be separated from it; and this action of the nitrogen seems to be what is referred to as impregnating the earth.

Since the grosser Vegetable Particles, when they have pass’d thro’ a Plant, together with their moist Vehicle, do fly up into the Air invisibly; ’tis not likely they should, in the Earth, fall off from the Superficies of the Pores, by their own Gravity: And if they did fall off, they might fly away as easily before they enter’d Plants, as they do after they have pass’d thro’ them; and then a Soil might become the poorer[14] for all the Culture and Stirring we bestow upon it; tho’ no Plants were in it; contrary to Experience.

Since the larger particles from plants, along with their moisture, rise into the air without being seen; it’s unlikely they would just fall off the surface of the pores in the soil due to gravity. And if they did fall off, they would probably float away just as easily before entering the plants as they do after passing through them; then a soil could become poorer for all the cultivation and tilling we do, even if no plants were present, which goes against what we've experienced.

[14]But we see it is always the richer by being frequently turned and exposed to the Atmosphere: Therefore Plants must take all their Pabulum from a Superficies of Parts of Earth; except what may perhaps be contained in Water fine enough to enter Roots intire with the Water.

[14]But we see it is always richer when frequently disturbed and exposed to the air. Therefore, plants must get all their nutrients from the surface layers of soil, except for what might be contained in water fine enough to fully enter the roots along with the water.

It must be own’d, that Water does ever carry, in its Interstices, Particles of Earth fine enough to enter Roots; because I have seen, that a great Quantity of Earth (in my Experiments) will pass out of Roots set in Rain-water; and tis found that Water can never be, by any Art, wholly freed from its earthy Charge; therefore it must have carry’d in some Particles of Earth along with it: But yet I cannot hence conclude, that the Water did first take these fine Particles from the aforesaid Superficies: I rather think, that they are exhal’d, together with very small Pieces to which they adhere, and in the Vapour divided by the Aereal Nitre; and, when the Vapour is condens’d, they descend with it to replenish[26] the Pasture of Plants; and that these do not enter intire into Roots, neither does any other of the earthy Charge that any Water contains; except such fine Particles which have already pass’d thro’ the Vegetable Vessels, and been thence exhal’d.

It must be acknowledged that water always carries, in its spaces, particles of soil fine enough to enter roots; because I have observed that a significant amount of soil (in my experiments) will flow out of roots placed in rainwater; and it's found that water can never, by any method, be completely freed from its earthy contents; therefore, it must have carried some particles of soil along with it: But still, I cannot conclude that the water originally took these fine particles from the aforementioned surface: I rather believe that they are released along with very small pieces to which they cling, and in the vapor divided by the aerial nitre; and when the vapor condenses, they fall with it to replenish[26] the nourishment of plants; and these do not fully enter the roots, nor does any other earthy contents that any water contains; except for such fine particles that have already passed through the plant vessels and have been exhaled from there.

This Conjecture is the more probable, for that Rain-Water is as nourishing to Plants set therein as Spring-Water, tho’ the latter have more Earth in it; and tho’ Spring-water have some Particles in it that will enter intire into Roots, yet we must consider, that even that Water may have been many times exhal’d into the Air, and may have still retain’d a great Quantity of Vegetable Particles, which it received from Vegetable Exhalations in the Atmosphere; tho’ not so great a Quantity as Rain-water, that comes immediately thence.

This theory is more likely because rainwater is just as nourishing for plants grown in it as spring water, even though the latter contains more minerals. While spring water has some particles that can fully enter the roots, we have to remember that even that water may have been evaporated into the air multiple times and could still hold a significant amount of plant particles it picked up from plant emissions in the atmosphere; although not as much as rainwater, which comes directly from there.

These, I have to do with, are the Particles which Plants have from the Earth, or Soil; but they have also fine Particles of Earth from Water, which may impart some of its finest Charge to the Superficies of Roots, as well as to the Superficies of the Parts of the Earth[15] which makes the Pasture of Plants.

These are the particles that plants take from the earth or soil; but they also have tiny particles of earth from water, which can give some of its finest qualities to the surfaces of roots, as well as to the surfaces of the parts of the earth[15] that nourish plants.

[15]If Water does separate, and take any of the mere Pabulum of Plants from the Soil, it gives much more to it.

[15]If water separates and takes any of the basic nourishment from plants in the soil, it gives back much more.

Yet it seems, that much of the Earth, contain’d in the clearest Water, is there in too large Parts to enter a Root; since we see, that in a short time the Root’s Superficies will, in the purest Water, be cover’d with Earth, which is then form’d into a terrene Pasture, which may nourish Roots; but very few Plants will live long in so thin a Pasture, as any Water affords them. I cannot find one as yet that has liv’d a Year, without some Earth have been added to it.

Yet it seems that much of the Earth, contained in the clearest water, is too large in parts to support a root. This is because we observe that in a short time, the surface of the root will be covered with soil in the purest water, which then forms a terrestrial pasture that can nourish roots. However, very few plants thrive for long in such a thin pasture as any water provides. I have yet to find one that has lived a year without some soil being added to it.

And all Aquatics, that I know, have their Roots in the Earth, tho’ cover’d with Water.

And all Aquatics that I know have their roots in the earth, even though they're covered with water.

The Pores, Cavities, or Interstices of the Earth, being of two Sorts, viz. Natural and Artificial; the[27] one affords the Natural, the other the Artificial Pasture of Plants.

The Pores, Cavities, or Interstices of the Earth, being of two types, namely Natural and Artificial; the[27] one provides Natural, the other Artificial nourishment for plants.

The natural Pasture alone will suffice, to furnish a Country with Vegetables, for the Maintenance of a few Inhabitants; but if Agriculture were taken out of the World, ’tis much to be fear’d, that those of all populous Countries, especially towards the Confines of the frigid Zones (for there the Trees often fail of producing Fruit), would be oblig’d to turn Anthropophagi, as in many uncultivated Regions they do, very probably for that Reason.

The natural pasture alone would be enough to provide a country with vegetables to sustain a few residents. However, if agriculture were removed from the world, it’s likely that those in densely populated countries, especially near the boundaries of colder regions (where trees often struggle to bear fruit), would be forced to become cannibals, just like in many uncultivated areas where this probably happens for that reason.

The artificial Pasture of Plants is that inner Superficies which is made from dividing the Soil by Art.

The artificial pasture of plants is that inner surface created by artificially dividing the soil.

This does, on all Parts of the Globe, where used, maintain many more People than the natural Pasture[16]; and in the colder Climates, I believe, it will not[28] be extravagant to say, ten times as many: Or that, in Case Agriculture were a little improved (as I hope to shew is not difficult to be done), it might maintain twice as many more yet, or the same Number, better.

This maintains a lot more people than natural pastures do everywhere in the world, especially in colder climates; I think it's reasonable to say it could support ten times as many. If agriculture were improved a bit (which I hope to show is not hard to achieve), it could support twice as many people or maintain the same number in better condition.

[16]The extraordinary Increase of St. Foin, Clover, and natural Grass, when their Roots reach into pulveriz’d Earth, exceeding the Increase of all those other Plants of the same Species (that stand out of the Reach of it) above One hundred Times, shew how vastly the artificial Pasture of Plants exceeds the natural. A full Proof of this Difference, (besides very many I have had before) was seen by two Intervals in the middle of a poor Field of worn-out St. Foin, pulveriz’d in the precedent Summer, in the manner describ’d in a Note on the latter Part of Chap. XII. relating to St. Foin. Here not only the St. Foin adjoining to these Intervals recover’d its Strength, blossom’d, and seeded well, but also the natural Grass amongst it was as strong, and had as flourishing a Colour, as if a Dung-heap had been laid in the Intervals; also many other Weeds came out from the Edges of the unplow’d Ground, which must have lain dormant a great many Years, grew higher and larger than ever were seen before in that Field; but above all, there was a Weed amongst the St. Foin, which generally accompanies it, bearing a white Flower; some call it White Weed, others Lady’s Bedstraw: Some Plants of this that stood near the Intervals, were, in the Opinion of all that saw them, increased to a thousand Times the Bulk of those of the same Species, that stood in the Field three Feet distant from such pulveriz’d Earth.

[16]The remarkable growth of St. Foin, Clover, and natural Grass, when their roots dig into well-tilled soil, surpasses the growth of all other plants of the same type (that are out of reach of it) by over a hundred times, showing how much more effective artificial pastures are compared to natural ones. A clear example of this difference, along with many others I've observed before, was seen in two sections in the middle of a poor field of depleted St. Foin, tilled the previous summer, as described in a note in the latter part of Chap. XII relating to St. Foin. Here, not only did the St. Foin near these sections regain its strength, bloom, and produce seeds well, but the natural grass around it was just as robust and had a vibrant color, as if a manure pile had been placed in those sections. Additionally, many other weeds emerged from the edges of the untilled ground, which must have been dormant for many years, growing taller and larger than ever seen before in that field. However, the standout was a weed among the St. Foin, typically found with it, that has a white flower; some call it White Weed, others Lady’s Bedstraw: some of these plants that were near the sections, in the opinion of everyone who saw them, had grown to a size a thousand times bigger than those of the same type standing three feet away from such well-tilled soil.

Note, These Intervals were each an Hundred Perch long, and had each in them a treble Row of Barley very good. The Reason I take to be this, That the Land had lain still several Years after its artificial Pasture was lost; whereby all the Plants in it having only the natural Pasture to subsist on, became so extremely small and weak, that they were not able to exhaust the Land of so great a Quantity of the (vegetable) nourishing Particles as the Atmosphere brought down to it.

Note: These intervals were each a hundred perches long and each contained a triple row of very good barley. The reason I believe this is that the land had been left undisturbed for several years after its artificial pasture was lost; as a result, all the plants had only the natural pasture to survive on, which caused them to become so extremely small and weak that they weren't able to deplete the land of such a large amount of the (vegetable) nourishing particles that the atmosphere provided.

And when by Pulveration the artificial Pasture came to be added to this natural Pasture (not much exhausted), and nothing at all suffered to grow out of it for above Three Quarters of a Year, it became rich enough, without any Manure, to produce this extraordinary Effect upon the Vegetables, whose Roots reached into it. How long this Effect may continue, is uncertain: but I may venture to say, it will continue until the Exhaustion by Vegetables doth over-balance the Descent of the Atmosphere, and the Pulveration.

And when the artificial pasture was added to this natural pasture (which wasn't much depleted), and nothing was allowed to grow from it for over three-quarters of a year, it became rich enough, without any fertilizer, to have this extraordinary effect on the plants whose roots reached into it. How long this effect might last is uncertain, but I can confidently say it will persist until the depletion caused by the plants outweighs the contributions from the atmosphere and the pulverization.

And what I have said of any one Species of Plants in this Respect may be generally apply’d to the rest.

And what I’ve said about any one type of plants in this regard can generally apply to the others as well.

The natural Pasture is not only less than the artificial, in an equal Quantity of Earth; but also, that little consisting in the Superficies of Pores, or Cavities, not having a free Communication[17] with one another, being less pervious to the Roots of all Vegetables, and requiring a greater Force to break thro’ their Partitions; by that Means, Roots, especially of weak Plants, are excluded from many of those Cavities, and so lose the Benefit of them.

The natural pasture is not just less than the artificial one in the same amount of soil, but that little bit consists of the surface of pores or cavities that don’t have free communication with one another. This makes it less accessible for the roots of all plants and requires more force to break through their partitions. As a result, roots, particularly those of weak plants, are kept out of many of those cavities and miss out on their benefits.

[17]None of the natural Vegetable Pasture is lost or injured by the artificial; but on the contrary, ’tis mended by being mix’d with it, and by having a greater Communication betwixt Pore and Pore.

[17]None of the natural vegetable pasture is lost or harmed by the artificial; instead, it actually improves by being mixed with it, and by having better connectivity between the pores.

But the artificial Pasture consists in Superficies of Cavities, that are pervious to all Manner of Roots, and that afford them free Passage and Entertainment in and thro’ all their Recesses. Roots may here extend to the utmost, without meeting with any Barricadoes in their Way.

But the artificial pasture consists of surfaces of cavities that are open to every kind of root, allowing them to move freely and thrive throughout all their recesses. Roots can stretch out as far as they want without encountering any obstacles in their path.

The internal Superficies, which is the natural Pasture of Plants, is like the external Superficies or[29] Surface of the Earth, whereon is the Pasture of Cattle; in that it cannot be inlarg’d without Addition of more Surface taken from Land adjoining to it, by inlarging its Bounds or Limits.

The internal surface, which is the natural ground for plants, is similar to the external surface of the Earth, where cattle graze; neither can be expanded without adding more land from adjacent areas by extending its boundaries.

But the artificial Pasture of Plants may be inlarg’d, without any Addition of more Land, or inlarging of Bounds, and this by Division only of the same Earth.

But the artificial Pasture of Plants can be expanded without needing more land or increasing the boundaries; this can be done simply by dividing the same soil.

And this artificial Pasture may be increas’d in proportion to the Division of the Parts of Earth, whereof it is the Superficies, which Division may be mathematically infinite; for an Atom is nothing; neither is there a more plain Impossibility in Nature, than to reduce Matter to nothing, by Division or Separation of its Parts.

And this artificial pasture can be increased based on how the parts of the Earth are divided, of which it is the surface. This division can be mathematically infinite; because an atom is nothing. There is no greater impossibility in nature than reducing matter to nothing through the division or separation of its parts.

A Cube of Earth of One Foot has but Six Feet of Superficies. Divide this Cube into Cubical Inches, and then its Superficies will be increas’d Twelve times, viz. to Seventy-two Superficial Feet. Divide these again in like Manner and Proportion; that is, Divide them into Parts that bear the same Proportion to the Inches, as the Inches do to the Feet, and then the same Earth, which had at first no more than Six Superficial Feet, will have Eight hundred Sixty-four Superficial Feet of artificial Pasture; and so is the Soil divisible, and this Pasture increasable ad Infinitum.

A cube of earth that measures one foot on each side has a surface area of six square feet. If you break this cube down into cubic inches, its surface area will increase twelve times, that is, to seventy-two square feet. If you divide these again in the same way and proportion—meaning, divide them into parts that relate to the inches just like the inches relate to the feet—then the same earth, which started with only six square feet, will have eight hundred sixty-four square feet of artificial pasture. This shows how the soil can be divided and this pasture can be increased endlessly.

The common Methods of dividing the Soil are these; viz. by Dung, by Tillage, or by both[18].

The usual ways of dividing the soil are these: namely by dung, by tillage, or by both[18].

[18]For Vis Unita Fortior.

__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__For United We Stand Stronger.


CHAP. 4.
Of DUNG.

All Sorts of Dung and Compost contain some Matter, which, when mixt with the Soil, ferments therein; and by such Ferment dissolves, crumbles,[30] and divides the Earth very much: This is the chief, and almost only Use of Dung: For, as to the pure earthy Part, the Quantity is so very small, that, after a perfect Putrefaction, it appears to bear a most inconsiderable Proportion to the Soil it is design’d to manure: and therefore, in that respect, is next to nothing.

All kinds of dung and compost have some substance that, when mixed with the soil, ferments; this fermentation breaks down, crumbles, [30] and separates the earth significantly. This is the main and almost sole purpose of dung. As for the solid part, the amount is so minimal that, after complete decomposition, it hardly compares to the soil it's intended to enrich; in that sense, it’s almost negligible.

Its fermenting Quality is chiefly owing to the Salts wherewith it abounds; but a very little of this Salt applied alone to a few Roots of almost any Plant, will (as, in my Mint Experiments, it is evident common Salt does) kill it.

Its fermenting quality is mainly due to the salts it contains. However, just a small amount of this salt applied alone to a few roots of almost any plant will, as shown in my mint experiments, kill it, similar to how common salt does.

This proves, that its Use is not to nourish, but to dissolve; i. e. Divide the terrestrial Matter, which affords Nutriment to the Mouths of Vegetable Roots.

This shows that its purpose isn't to nourish but to break down; i.e. to separate the earthly matter that provides nutrition to the mouths of plant roots.

It is, I suppose, upon the Account of the acrimonious fiery Nature of these Salts, that the Florists have banish’d Dung from their Flower-Gardens.

It’s likely because of the intense and harsh nature of these salts that florists have banned dung from their flower gardens.

And there is, I’m sure, much more Reason to prohibit the Use of Dung in the Kitchen-Garden, on Account of the ill Taste it gives to esculent Roots and Plants, especially such Dung as is made in great Towns.

And I'm sure there's a lot more reason to ban the use of dung in the kitchen garden, due to the bad taste it gives to edible roots and plants, especially dung that's produced in large towns.

’Tis a Wonder how delicate Palates can dispense with eating their own and their Beasts Ordure, but a little more putrefied and evaporated; together with all Sorts of Filth and Nastiness, a Tincture of which those Roots must unavoidably receive, that grow amongst it.

It’s amazing how picky eaters can manage to avoid consuming their own and their animals' waste, just a bit more decayed and dried up; along with all kinds of dirt and gross stuff, a hint of which those roots must inevitably absorb while growing in it.

Indeed I do not admire, that learned Palates, accustom’d to the Goût of Silphium, Garlick, la Chair venee, and mortify’d Venison, equalling the Stench and Rankness of this Sort of City-Muck, should relish and approve of Plants that are fed and fatted by its immediate Contact.

I really don't get how educated tastes, used to the flavor of silphium, garlic, game meat, and aged venison, which can match the smell and funk of this kind of city garbage, should enjoy and endorse plants that grow and thrive from direct contact with it.

People who are so vulgarly nice, as to nauseate these modish Dainties, and whose squeamish Stomachs[31] even abhor to receive the Food of Nobles, so little different from that wherewith they regale their richest Gardens, say that even the very Water, wherein a rich Garden Cabbage is boil’d, stinks; but that the Water, wherein a Cabbage from a poor undung’d Field is boil’d, has no Manner of unpleasant Savour; and that a Carrot, bred in a Dunghill, has none of that sweet Relish, which a Field-Carrot affords.

People who are so overly nice that they can’t stand these trendy delicacies, and whose picky stomachs even refuse to accept the food meant for nobles, which is hardly different from what they enjoy in their own lavish gardens, claim that even the water used to boil a rich garden cabbage stinks; while the water used for boiling a cabbage from a poor, unmanured field has no unpleasant taste at all; and that a carrot grown in manure doesn’t have the sweet flavor that a field carrot has.

There is a like Difference in all Roots, nourish’d with such different Diet.

There is a similar difference in all roots, nurtured with such different diets.

Dung not only spoils the fine Flavour of these our Eatables, but inquinates good Liquor. The dung’d Vineyards in Languedoc produce nauseous Wine; from whence there is a Proverb in that Country, That poor People’s Wine is best, because they carry no Dung to their Vineyards.

Dung not only ruins the delicious flavor of our food but also contaminates good drinks. The dung-filled vineyards in Languedoc produce unpleasant wine; hence, there's a saying in that region that the wine of the poor is the best because they don’t bring any dung to their vineyards.

Dung is observ’d to give great Encouragement to the Production of Worms; and Carrots in the Garden are much worm-eaten, when those in the Field are free from Worms.

Dung is noted to greatly encourage the growth of worms; and carrots in the garden are often full of worms, while those in the field are free from them.

Dung is the Putrefaction of Earth, after it has been alter’d by Vegetable or Animal Vessels. But if Dung be thoroughly ventilated and putrefy’d before it be spread on the Field (as I think all the Authors I have read direct) so much of its Salts will be spent in fermenting the Dung itself, that little of them will remain to ferment the Soil; and the Farmer who might dung One Acre in Twenty, by laying on his Dung whilst fully replete with vigorous Salts, may (if he follows these Writers Advice to a Nicety) be forced to content himself with dunging one Acre in an Hundred.

Dung is the decay of soil after it's been transformed by plants or animals. But if dung is properly aerated and decomposed before being spread on the field (as I've read all the authors recommend), a lot of its nutrients will get used up while decomposing itself, leaving very little to enrich the soil. This means that a farmer who could fertilize one acre out of twenty might, by applying dung when it's still rich in nutrients, find himself having to settle for fertilizing only one acre out of a hundred if he strictly follows the advice of these writers.

This indeed is good Advice for Gardeners, for making their Stuff more palatable and wholesome; but would ruin the Farmer who could have no more Dung than what he could make upon his Arable Farm.

This is definitely good advice for gardeners, helping them make their crops more tasty and healthy; but it would be disastrous for farmers who could only produce as much manure as they could generate on their farmland.

[32]

[32]

For every Sort of Dung, the longer Time it ferments without the Ground, the lesser Time it has to ferment in it, and the weaker its Ferment will be.

For every type of dung, the longer it ferments without being in the ground, the less time it has to ferment in the ground, and the weaker its fermentation will be.

The Reason given for this great Diminution of Dung is, that the Seeds of Weeds may be rotted, and lose their vegetating Faculty; but this I am certain of by Demonstration, that let a Dunghil remain Three Years unmov’d, though its Bulk be vastly diminish’d in that Time, and its best Quality lost, Charlock-seed will remain found in it, and stock the Land whereon it is laid: For that Ferment which is sufficient to consume the Virtue of the stercoreous Salts, is not sufficient to destroy the vegative Virtue of Charlock-seeds, nor (I believe) of many other Sorts of Weeds.

The explanation given for this significant decrease in dung is that the seeds of weeds may decay and lose their ability to sprout. But I’m certain, based on evidence, that if a pile of dung is left undisturbed for three years, even though its size shrinks considerably and its best qualities are lost, charlock seeds will still be present in it and will spread in the area where it’s applied. The process that is enough to destroy the beneficial properties of the dung salts isn’t strong enough to eliminate the sprouting ability of charlock seeds, nor, I believe, many other types of weeds.

The very Effluvia of animal Bodies, sent off by Perspiration, are so noxious as to kill the Animal that emits them, if confin’d to receive them back in great Quantity, by breathing in an Air replete with them; which appears from the soon dying of an Animal shut up in a Receiver full of Air. Yet this seems to be the most harmless of all sorts of animal Excrements the Air can be infected with. How noxious then must be the more fetid Steams of Ordure!

The very gases released by animal bodies through sweat are so harmful that they can kill the animal producing them if it is trapped and forced to breathe excessive amounts of them; this is evident from how quickly an animal dies when enclosed in a container filled with such air. Still, this seems to be the least harmful type of animal waste that can contaminate the air. So, how toxic must the more foul odors from feces be!

If a Catalogue were publish’d of all Instances from Charnel-houses (or Cœmeteries) and of the pestiferous Effects, which have happen’d from the Putrefaction of dead Bodies, after great Battles, even in the open Air, no body, I believe, would have a good Opinion of the Wholsomeness of Animal Dung; for if a great Quantity do so infect the Air, ’tis likely a less may infect it in proportion to that less Quantity.

If a catalog were published of all the cases from burial sites (or cemeteries) and the harmful effects that have occurred due to the decay of dead bodies after major battles, even in the open air, I believe no one would have a good opinion of the safety of animal manure. Because if a large quantity can so contaminate the air, it’s likely that a smaller amount can do so in proportion to its size.

In great Cities the Air is full of these Effluvia, which in hot Climes often produce the Pestilence; and in cold Climes People are generally observ’d to live a less time, and less healthfully, in Cities, than in the Country; to which Difference, ’tis likely, that the eating unwholsome Gardenage may contribute.

In big cities, the air is filled with these pollutants, which in hot climates often cause disease; and in cold climates, people generally tend to live shorter and less healthy lives in cities compared to the countryside. This difference is likely due, in part, to the consumption of unhealthy produce.

[33]

[33]

This Dung is a fitter Food for venomous Creatures[19] than for edible Plants; and ’tis (no doubt) upon Account of this, that dung’d Gardens are so much frequented by Toads, which are seldom or never seen in the open undung’d Fields.

This dung is a better food for poisonous creatures than for edible plants; and it’s probably for this reason that manured gardens attract so many toads, which are rarely or never seen in the open fields without dung.

[19]Mr. Evelyn says, that Dung is the Nurse of Vermin.

[19]Mr. Evelyn says that Dung is the Nurse of Vermin.

What can we say then to the Salubrity of those Roots themselves, bred up and fatten’d among these Toads and Corruption? The Leaves indeed are only discharging some of the Filth, when we eat them; but the Roots have that unsavoury infected Food in their very Mouths, when we take them for our Nourishment.

What can we say about the healthiness of those roots that are grown and nourished among these toads and decay? The leaves are just getting rid of some of the dirt when we eat them; but the roots actually contain that foul, contaminated food right in their very fibers when we consume them for our nourishment.

But tho’ Dung be, upon these and other Accounts, injurious to the Garden, yet a considerable Quantity of it is so necessary to most Corn-fields, that without it little Good can be done by the old Husbandry.

But even though dung is harmful to the garden for these and other reasons, a significant amount of it is essential for most cornfields, so without it, traditional farming can't achieve much good.

Dung is not injurious to the Fields[20] being there in less Proportion: And the Produce of Corn is the Grain. When the Leaves have done their utmost to purify the Sap, the most refin’d Part is secern’d to be yet further elaborated by peculiar Organs; then, by the Vessels of the Blossoms, ’tis become double-refin’d, for the Nourishment of the Grain; which is therefore more pure from Dung, and more wholsome, than any other Part of the Plant that bears it.

Dung doesn’t harm the Fields[20] when it’s used in smaller amounts. The main output of the crops is the Grain. Once the Leaves have done their best to clean the Sap, the most refined part is separated to be further processed by specific organs; then, through the vessels of the blossoms, it becomes even more refined for the nourishment of the Grain. This means the Grain is purer from Dung and healthier than any other part of the plant that produces it.

[20]Such Plants as Cabbages, Turneps, Carrots, and Potatoes, when they are designed only for fatting of Cattle, will not be injured by Dung, Tillage, and Hoeing all together, which will make the Crops the greater, and the Cattle will like them never the worse.

[20]Plants like Cabbages, Turnips, Carrots, and Potatoes, when intended solely for fattening cattle, won't be harmed by the combination of manure, tilling, and hoeing. This will actually increase the yield, and the cattle will enjoy them even more.

And common Tillage alone is not sufficient for many Sorts of Corn, especially Wheat, which is the King of Grains.

And regular farming alone isn't enough for many types of crops, especially wheat, which is the king of grains.

Very few Fields can have the Conveniency of a sufficient Supply of Dung, to enable them to produce half the Wheat those will do near Cities, where they have Plenty of it.

Very few fields have the convenience of a sufficient supply of manure to produce half the wheat that fields near cities can, where there's plenty of it.

[34]

[34]

The Crop of 20 Acres will scarce make Dung sufficient for one Acre, in the common Way of laying it on.

The crop from 20 acres will barely provide enough manure for one acre using the usual method of spreading it.

The Action of the Dung’s Ferment affords a Warmth[21] to the Infant-plants, in their most tender State, and the most rigorous Season.

The action of the dung's ferment provides warmth to the young plants in their most delicate state and during the harshest season.

[21]But though Dung in fermenting may have a little Warmth, yet it may sometimes, by letting more Water enter its Hollowness, be in a Frost much colder than undung’d pulverized Earth; for I have seen Wheat-plants in the Winter die in the very Spits of Dung, when undung’d drill’d Wheat, adjoining to it, planted at the same Time, has flourish’d all the same Winter; and I could, not find any other Reason for this, but the Hollowness of the Dung; and yet it seemed to be well rotted.

[21]But while manure can generate some heat during fermentation, it can also occasionally absorb more water and become much colder than untreated, powdered soil during a freeze. I’ve seen wheat plants die in the middle of manure in winter, while untreated drilled wheat planted at the same time nearby thrived throughout the winter. I couldn’t find any other explanation for this except the hollowness of the manure, even though it appeared to be well composted.

But ’tis hard to know how long the Warmth of this Ferment lasteth, by reason of the great Difficulty to distinguish the very least Degree of Heat from the very least Degree of Cold.

But it’s difficult to know how long the warmth of this excitement lasts, because it’s really hard to tell the tiniest bit of heat from the tiniest bit of cold.

Under the Name of Dung we may also understand whatever ferments with the Earth (except Fire); such as green Vegetables cover’d in the Ground, &c.

Under the name of Dung, we can also understand anything that decomposes with the Earth (except Fire); like green vegetables buried in the ground, &c.

As to the Difference of the Quantity of artificial Pasture made by Dung without Tillage, and that made by Tillage without Dung; the latter is many Times greater, of which I had the following Proof. An unplow’d Land, wherein a Dunghil had lain for two or three Years, and being taken away, was planted with Turneps; at the same time a till’d Land, contiguous thereto, was drill’d with Turneps, and Horse-ho’d; the other, being Hand-ho’d, prospered best at the first; but at last did not amount to the Fifth Part of the Till’d and Horse-ho’d, in Bigness, nor in Crop. The Benefit of the Dung and Hand-hoe was so inconsiderable, in comparison of the Plough and Hoe-plough; the little Quantity of artificial Pasture raised to the other, was only near the Surface, and did not reach deep enough to maintain the Turneps, till they arrived at the Fifth Part of the Growth of[35] those, whose artificial Pasture reach’d to the Bottom of the Staple of the Land.

As for the difference in the amount of artificial pasture created by dung without tillage compared to that made by tillage without dung, the latter is often much greater, and I have the following evidence for that. A piece of land that hadn't been plowed and where a compost heap had been left for two or three years, once removed, was planted with turnips; at the same time, an adjacent tilled land was drilled with turnips and horse-weeded. Initially, the hand-weeded plot thrived better, but in the end, it produced less than one-fifth of the size and yield of the tilled and horse-weeded plot. The benefits of the dung and hand-weeding were minimal compared to the plowing and hoeing; the small amount of artificial pasture generated in the former was only close to the surface and did not reach deep enough to sustain the turnips until they had grown to one-fifth the size of those whose artificial pasture extended to the depth of the land's staple.

A like Proof is; that several Lands of Turneps, drill’d on the Level, at three Foot Rows, plow’d, and doubly dung’d, and also Horse-ho’d, did not produce near so good a Crop of Turneps, as Six Foot Ridges adjoining, Horse-ho’d, tho’ no Dung had been laid thereon for many Years: There was no other Difference, than that the three Foot Rows did not admit the Hoe-plough to raise half the artificial Pasture, as the Six Foot Rows did. The Dung plow’d into the narrow Intervals, before drilling, could operate no further, with any great Effect, than the Hoe-plough could turn it up, and help in its Pulveration.

A similar example is that several fields of turnips, planted in rows three feet apart, plowed, heavily fertilized, and also hoed, did not yield as good a crop of turnips as the six-foot ridges next to them that were hoed, even though those ridges hadn’t been fertilized for many years. The only difference was that the three-foot rows didn’t allow the hoe-plow to bring up half the artificial pasture that the six-foot rows did. The fertilizer plowed into the narrow spaces before planting could only have a significant effect to the extent that the hoe-plow could turn it up and help break it down.

Dung, without Tillage, can do very little; with some Tillage doth something; with much Tillage pulverizes the Soil in less Time, than Tillage alone can do; but the Tillage alone, with more Time, can pulverize as well: This the Experiments of artificially pulverizing of the poorest Land, as they are related by Mr. Evelyn, fully prove.

Dung, without tilling, can do very little; with some tilling, it does a bit more; with a lot of tilling, it breaks up the soil faster than tilling alone can do; but tilling alone, given more time, can break it up just as well: This is fully demonstrated by the experiments of artificially breaking up the poorest land, as reported by Mr. Evelyn.

And these Experiments are the more to be depended on, as they are made both in England and Holland by Persons of known Integrity.

And these experiments are more reliable since they were conducted in England and Holland by people of recognized integrity.

This Truth is also further confirmed by those Authors who have found, that High-way Dust alone is a Manure preferable to Dung: And all these Pulverations being made by Attrition or Contusion, why should not our Instruments of Pulveration, in Time, reduce a sufficient Part of the Staple of a dry friable Soil, to a Dust equal to that of a Highway?

This truth is further supported by authors who have discovered that highway dust alone is a fertilizer better than dung. Since all these particles are created by friction or impact, why shouldn't our tools for grinding eventually break down a significant portion of the staple of a dry, crumbly soil to a dust similar to that of a highway?

The common Proportion of Dung used in the Field pulverizes only a small Part of the Staple: but how long a time may be required for our Instruments to pulverize an equal Part, it depending much upon the Weather, and the Degree of Friability of the Soil, is uncertain.

The usual amount of manure used in the field breaks down only a small portion of the crop: however, how long it will take for our tools to break down an equal portion depends greatly on the weather and the soil's ability to crumble, which is uncertain.

[36]

[36]

I have seen surprising Effects from Ground, after being kept unexhausted, by plowing with common Ploughs for Two whole Years running: And I am confident, that the Expence of this extraordinary Tillage and Fallow will not, in many Places, amount to above half the Expence of a dressing with Dung; and if the Land be all the Time kept in our Sort of little Ridges of the Size most proper for that Purpose, the Expence of plowing will be diminished one half; besides the Advantage the Earth of such Ridges hath, of being friable in Weather which is too moist for plowing the same Land on the Level.

I have seen surprising results from the soil after being kept unused by plowing with regular plows for two entire years. I’m confident that the cost of this unique tillage and fallow won't, in many cases, exceed half the cost of fertilizing with manure. Plus, if the land is kept in our type of small ridges that are ideal for this purpose, the cost of plowing will be cut by half. Additionally, such ridges have the advantage of being loose in wet weather when it's too damp to plow the same land flat.

I have made many Trials of fine Dung on the Rows; and, notwithstanding the Benefit of it, I have, for these several Years last past, left it off, finding that a little more Hoeing will supply it at a much less Expence, than that of so small a Quantity of Manure, and of the Hands necessary to lay it on, and of the Carriage.

I have tried using good dung on the rows many times, and even though it has its benefits, I've stopped using it over the past few years. I've found that a bit more hoeing can replace it at a much lower cost than using such a small amount of manure, along with the labor needed to spread it and the transportation involved.


CHAP. 5.
Of Farming.

Tillage is breaking and dividing the Ground by Spade, Plough, Hoe, or other Instruments, which divide by a Sort of Attrition (or Contusion) as Dung does by Fermentation[22].

Tvillage involves breaking and separating the soil using tools like a spade, plow, hoe, or other instruments, which break it down through a process similar to attrition (or impact) just like dung breaks down through fermentation[22].

[22]Neque enim aliud est Colere quam Resolvere, & Fermentare Terram. Columella.

[22]For to cultivate is nothing other than to resolve and to enrich the soil. Columella.

And since the artificial Pasture of Plants is made and increas’d by Pulveration, ’tis no Matter whether it be by the Ferment of Dung, the Attrition of the Plough, the Contusion of the Roller, or by any other Instrument or Means whatsoever, except by Fire, which carries away all the Cement of that which is burnt.

And since the artificial Pasture of Plants is created and increased by Pulverization, it doesn't matter whether it's through the Ferment of Dung, the Grinding of the Plough, the Crushing of the Roller, or by any other tools or methods, except for Fire, which destroys all the bonds of what is burned.

[37]

[37]

By Dung we are limited to the Quantity of it we can procure, which in most Places is too scanty: But by Tillage, we can inlarge our Field of subterranean Pasture without Limitation, tho’ the external Surface of it be confin’d within narrow Bounds: Tillage may extend the Earth’s internal Superficies, in proportion to the Division of its Parts; and as Division is infinite, so may that Superficies be.

By dung, we're limited to how much we can get, which is often too little in many places. However, with farming, we can expand our underground pasture without limits, even if the surface area is small. Farming can increase the Earth's internal area based on how we divide its parts; and since division can go on forever, so can that area.

Every Time the Earth is broken by any Sort of Tillage, or Division, there must arise some new Superficies of the broken Parts, which never has been open before. For when the Parts of Earth are once united and incorporated together, ’tis morally impossible, that they, or any of them, should be broken again, only in the same Places; for to do that, such Parts must have again the same numerical Figures and Dimensions they had before such Breaking, which even by an infinite Division could never be likely to happen: As the Letters of a Distichon, cut out and mixt, if they should be thrown up never so often, would never be likely to fall into the same Order and Position with one another, so as to recompose the same Distich.

Every time the Earth is disturbed by any form of farming or division, new surfaces of the broken areas emerge that haven’t been exposed before. Once the parts of the Earth are united and intertwined, it’s practically impossible for them, or any portions of them, to break apart again in the exact same spots. For that to happen, those parts would have to regain the exact same shapes and sizes they had before the break, which is unlikely, even with endless divisions. Just like the letters of a couplet, if they are cut out and mixed up, no matter how many times they are tossed, they won't likely fall back into the same order and arrangement to recreate the original couplet.

Although the internal Superficies may have been drain’d by a preceding Crop, and the next Plowing may move many of the before divided Parts, without new-breaking them; yet such as are new-broken, have, at such Places where they are so broken, a new Superficies, which never was, or did exist before; because we cannot reasonably suppose, that any of those Parts can have in all places (if in any Places) the same Figure and Dimensions twice.

Although the inner soil may have been drained by a previous crop, and the next plowing might shift many of the previously divided sections without breaking them anew; the areas that are newly turned over will have a new surface that never existed before. It’s unreasonable to expect that any of those sections can have the same shape and size in every spot (if at any spots) twice.

For as Matter is divisible ad infinitum, the Places or Lines whereat ’tis so divisible, must be, in relation to Number, infinite, that is to say, without Number; and must have at every Division Superficies[38] of Parts of infinite Variety[23] in Figure and Dimensions.

For matter can be divided ad infinitum, the locations or points where it can be divided must be infinite in relation to number, meaning they can't be counted; and at every division, there must be surfaces[38] of parts with infinite variety[23] in shape and size.

[23]Their Variety is such, that ’tis next to impossible, any two Pieces, or Clods, in a Thousand Acres of till’d Ground, should have the same Figure, and equal Dimensions, or that any Piece should exactly tally with any other, except with that from whence it was broken off.

[23]Their variety is so great that it's nearly impossible for any two pieces, or clods, in a thousand acres of cultivated land to have the same shape and size, or for any piece to match exactly with another, except for the one it was broken off from.

And because ’tis morally impossible, the same Figure and Dimensions should happen twice to any one Part, we need not wonder, how the Earth, every time of Tilling, should afford a new internal Superficies (or artificial Pasture); and that the till’d Soil has in it an inexhaustible Fund, which by a sufficient Division (being capable of an infinite one) may be produc’d.

And because it’s practically impossible for the same shape and size to occur twice in any one part, we shouldn’t be surprised that the Earth, every time it’s tilled, offers a new surface (or artificial pasture); and that the tilled soil contains an endless resource that, with enough division (which can go on infinitely), can be produced.

Tillage (as well as Dung) is beneficial to all Sorts of Land[24]. Light Land, being naturally hollow, has larger Pores, which are the Cause of its Lightness: This, when it is by any Means sufficiently divided,[39] the Parts being brought nearer together, becomes, for a time, Bulk for Bulk, heavier; i. e. The same Quantity will be contain’d in less Room, and so is made to partake of the Nature and Benefits of strong Land, viz. to keep out too much Heat and Cold, and the like.

Tillage (and dung) is helpful for all types of land. Light land, being naturally porous, has larger gaps, which cause its lightness. When it's sufficiently broken apart, the particles come closer together, making it temporarily heavier by volume. This means that the same amount can be contained in less space, allowing it to take on the characteristics and advantages of richer land, like better regulating heat and cold, among other benefits.

[24]’Tis of late fully prov’d, by the Experience of many Farmers, that two or three additional Plowings will supply the Place of Dung, even in the old Husbandry, if they be perform’d at proper Seasons: and the hiring Price of three Plowings, after Land has been thrice plow’d before, is but Twelve Shillings, whereas a Dunging will cost three Pounds: This was accidentally discovered in my Neighbourhood, by the Practice of a poor Farmer, who, when he had prepared his Land for Barley, and could not procure Seed to sow it, plow’d it on till Wheat Seed-Time, and (by means of such additional Plowing) without Dung, had so good a Crop of Wheat, that it was judg’d to be more than the Inheritance of the Land it grew on.

[24]Recently, it's been clearly shown, through the experience of many farmers, that two or three extra plowings can take the place of manure, even in traditional farming, if done at the right times. The cost of hiring three plowings, after the land has already been plowed three times, is only twelve shillings, while using manure would cost three pounds. This was discovered by chance in my neighborhood, by a struggling farmer who, after preparing his land for barley and being unable to get seeds to plant, continued plowing until wheat planting time. Thanks to these extra plowings, and without any manure, he had such a successful wheat crop that it was considered more than the value of the land itself.

The same Effect follows when they prepare Land for Turneps, since they are come in Fashion, and sow them several Times upon several Plowings, the Fly as often taking them off; they have from such extraordinary Tillage a good Crop of Wheat, instead of the lost Turneps, without the Help of Dung; hence double-plowing is now become frequent in this Country.

The same result happens when they prepare land for turnips, as they have become popular, and they plant them multiple times on different plowings, with the fly often taking them out; from this extra tilling, they get a good crop of wheat instead of the lost turnips, without the use of manure. As a result, double plowing has become common in this country.

The Reason why Land is enrich’d by lying long unplow’d, is that so very few Vegetables are carried off it, very little being produc’d; the Exhaustion is less than what is added by the Atmosphere, Cattle, &c. But when ’tis plow’d, a vastly greater Quantity of Vegetables is produc’d, and carried off, more than by the old Husbandry is return’d to it.

The reason land becomes enriched by lying untouched for a long time is that very few plants are taken from it, with little being produced; the depletion is less than what is added by the atmosphere, livestock, &c. However, when it is plowed, a significantly larger amount of plants is produced and removed, more than what the old farming methods return to it.

But strong Land, being naturally less porous, is made for a Time lighter (as well as richer) by a good Division; the Separation of its Parts makes it more porous, and causes it to take up more Room than it does in its natural State; and then it partakes of all the Benefits of lighter Land.

But dense soil, being naturally less porous, becomes lighter (as well as richer) for a time with proper tillage; the separation of its components makes it more porous and allows it to occupy more space than it does in its natural state; this way, it gains all the advantages of lighter soil.

When strong Land is plow’d, and not sufficiently, so that the Parts remain gross, ’tis said to be rough, and it has not the Benefit of Tillage; because most of the artificial Pores (or Interstices) are too large; and then it partakes of the Inconveniences of the hollow Land untill’d.

When fertile land is plowed, but not properly, leaving chunks of soil, it’s considered rough and doesn’t benefit from cultivation. This is because many of the artificial pores (or spaces) are too large, and it experiences the same issues as uncultivated land.

For when the light Land is plow’d but once, that is not sufficient to diminish its natural Hollowness (or Pores;) and, for Want of more Tillage, the Parts into which ’tis divided by that once (or perhaps twice) Plowing, remain too large; and consequently the artificial Pores are large also, and, in that respect, are like the ill-till’d strong Land.

For when the light soil is plowed just once, that isn’t enough to reduce its natural hollowness (or pores); and because it lacks further tilling, the sections created by that one (or maybe two) times of plowing stay too big. As a result, the artificial pores are also large and, in that way, are similar to poorly tilled heavy soil.

Light-land, having naturally less internal Superficies, seems to require the more Tillage[25] or Dung[40] to enrich it; as when the poor, hollow, thin Downs have their upper Part (which is the best) burnt, whereby all, (except a Caput Mortuum) is carried away; yet the Salts of this spread upon that barren Part of the Staple, which is unburnt, divide it into so very minute Particles, that their Pasture will nourish two or three good Crops of Corn: But then the Plough, even with a considerable Quantity of Dung, is never able afterwards to make a Division equal to what those Salts have done; and therefore such burnt Land remains barren.

Light land, naturally having less internal surface area, seems to need more tillage or manure to enrich it; just like when the poor, hollow, thin hills have their upper part (the best part) burned, causing everything (except a leftover residue) to be carried away. However, the salts that are spread on the unburned, barren part of the land break it down into such tiny particles that the pasture can support two or three good crops of corn. But after that, even with a significant amount of manure, the plow can never achieve a division as fine as what those salts have done; therefore, such burned land stays barren.

[25]As for puffy Land, which naturally swells up, instead of subsiding, tho’ its Hollowness is much abated by Tillage, yet it is thought little better than barren Land, and unprofitable for Corn: But what we usually call Light-land, is only comparatively so, in Respect of that which is heavier and stronger. And this Sort of Light land becomes much lighter by being ill-till’d; the unbroken Pieces of Turf underneath undissolved, forming large Cavities, increase its Hollowness, and consequently its Lightness: I have often known this Sort of Land despis’d by its Owners, who fear’d to give it due Tillage, which they thought would make it so light, that the Wind would blow it away; but whenever such has been thoroughly till’d, it never fail’d to become much stronger than before; and considering that ’tis till’d with less Expence than very strong Land, it is, for several Sorts of Corn, found to be more profitable than Land of greater Strength and Richness, that is more difficult to be till’d.

[25]As for puffy land, which naturally swells up instead of sinking, even though its hollowness is significantly reduced by farming, it's still considered to be not much better than barren land and not worth much for crops. However, what we usually refer to as light land is only lighter in comparison to heavier and stronger soil. This type of light land becomes even lighter when poorly farmed; the unbroken pieces of turf underneath that aren't broken down create large cavities, increasing its hollowness and, therefore, its lightness. I've often seen this type of land looked down upon by its owners, who were afraid to properly farm it because they believed it would become so light that the wind would blow it away. But whenever it has been thoroughly farmed, it always ended up becoming much stronger than before. Plus, since it's farmed at a lower cost than very strong land, it has been found to be more profitable for various types of crops than stronger, richer land that is harder to cultivate.

And I am apt to think, that this Sort of Light-land acquires more Cement, by having its external Superficies often changed, and exposed to the Dews, and other Benefits of the Atmosphere, as well as by the Increase of (its internal Superficies, which is the Surfaces of all the divided Parts of Earth, or) the Pasture of Plants; the one being augmented by the other; i. e., that into the more Parts the Earth is broken, the more Cement will it attain, from the Sulphur, which is brought by the Dews.

And I think that this type of light land gains more cement because its external surface is often changed and exposed to the dew and other benefits of the atmosphere, as well as from the increase of (its internal surface, which is the surfaces of all the divided parts of the earth, or) the nourishment from plants; one being increased by the other; i.e. the more the earth is broken up, the more cement it will get from the sulfur brought by the dew.

Artificial Pores cannot be too small, because Roots may the more easily enter the Soil that has them, quite contrary to natural Pores; for these may be, and generally are, too small, and too hard for the Entrance of all weak Roots, and for the free Entrance of strong Roots.

Artificial pores can't be too small because roots can more easily penetrate soil that contains them, which is completely opposite to natural pores. Natural pores can often be too small and too hard for weaker roots to enter and can also hinder the free entry of stronger roots.

Insufficient Tillage leaves strong Land with its natural Pores too small, and its artificial ones too large. It leaves Light-land, with its natural and artificial Pores both too large.

Insufficient tillage leaves fertile land with its natural pores too small and its artificial ones too large. It leaves light land with both its natural and artificial pores too large.

Pores that are too small in hard Ground, will not easily permit Roots to enter them.

Pores that are too small in hard ground won't easily allow roots to enter.

Pores that are too large in any Sort of Land, can be of little other Use to Roots, but only to give them Passage to other Cavities more proper for them; and if in any Place they lie open to the Air, they are dry’d up, and spoil’d, before they reach them.

Pores that are too large in any type of soil can provide little benefit to roots, only allowing them to move to other spaces that are more suitable. If these pores are exposed to the air in any location, they dry out and become unusable before the roots can access them.

[41]

[41]

For fibrous Roots (which alone maintain the Plant; the other Roots serve for receiving the Chyle from them, and convey it to the Stem) can take in no Nourishment from any Cavity, unless they come into Contact with[26], and press against, all the Superficies of that Cavity, which includes them; for it dispenses the Food to their Lacteals by such Pressure only: But a fibrous Root is not so press’d by the Superficies of a Cavity whose Diameter is greater than that of the Root.

For fibrous roots (which alone keep the plant alive; the other roots are just for taking in nutrients from them and carrying it to the stem) can’t absorb any nourishment from a space unless they touch [26] and press against all the surfaces of that space which surround them; that’s how they receive food through their lacteals by means of that pressure. However, a fibrous root isn’t pressed by the surfaces of a space if that space is wider than the root itself.

[26]Roots cannot have any Nourishment from Cavities of the Earth that are too large to press against them, except what Water, when ’tis in great Quantity, brings to them, which is imbibed by the gentle Pressure of the Water; but when the Water is gone, those large Cavities being empty, the Pressure ceases; and this is the Reason, that when Land has few other but such large Cavities, the Plants in it always suffer more by dry Weather, than in Land which by Dung or Tillage has more minute and fewer large Cavities.

[26]Roots can’t draw any nourishment from earth cavities that are too large to reach them, except for what water brings when it’s in large amounts, which is absorbed through the gentle pressure of the water. But when the water is gone, those large cavities become empty, and the pressure stops. This is why land with mostly large cavities suffers more during dry weather than land that is enriched by manure or cultivation, which has smaller and fewer large cavities.

There may be some Moisture on the Superficies of large Cavities; but without Pressure the fibrous Roots cannot reach it; and very little or no Pressure can be made to one Part of the Root’s Superficies, unless the Whole that is included be pressed.

There might be some moisture on the surface of large cavities, but without pressure, the fibrous roots can't access it; and very little or no pressure can be applied to one part of the root's surface unless the entire area being included is pressed.

If it be objected that a Charlock-Plant, when pulled up, and thrown upon the Ground, will grow thereon; this proves nothing against the Necessity of Pressure, &c. for the Weight of that Plant presses some of its Roots so closely against the Ground, that they send out (unless the Weather be very dry) new Fibres into the Earth; and there they are pressed in all their Superficies; without which Fibres the Plant doth not grow.

If someone argues that a charlock plant, when pulled up and thrown on the ground, will continue to grow there, it doesn't prove anything against the need for pressure, & c. The weight of that plant presses some of its roots so tightly against the ground that they send out new fibers into the earth (unless the weather is very dry); and those fibers are pressed in all their surfaces; without those fibers, the plant doesn't grow.

The Surfaces of great Clods form Declivities on every Side of them, and large Cavities, which are as Sinks to convey, what Rain and Dew bring, too quickly downwards to below the plow’d Part.

The surfaces of big clods create slopes on every side and large depressions that act like sinks, quickly directing what rain and dew bring down to below the plowed area.

The first and second Plowings with common Ploughs scarce deserve the Name of Tillage; they rather serve to prepare the Land for Tillage.

The first and second plowings with regular plows hardly qualify as actual farming; they instead mainly help get the land ready for farming.

The third, fourth, and every subsequent Plowing, may be of more Benefit, and less Expence, than any of the preceding ones.

The third, fourth, and every following Plowing might be more beneficial and less costly than any of the earlier ones.

[42]

[42]

But the last Plowings will be more advantageously perform’d by Way of Hoeing, as in the following Chapters will appear.

But the final plowings will be done more effectively by hoeing, as will be shown in the following chapters.

For the finer Land is made by Tillage, the richer will it become, and the more Plants it will maintain.

For better land is cultivated, the richer it will become, and the more plants it will support.

It has been often observ’d, that when Part of a Ground has been better till’d than the rest, and the whole Ground constantly manag’d alike afterwards for six or seven Years successively; this Part that was but once better till’d, always produc’d a better Crop than the rest, and the Difference remain’d very visible every Harvest.

It has often been observed that when a section of land has been cultivated better than the others, and the entire area is managed the same way for six or seven consecutive years, that section which was once better cultivated consistently yields a better crop than the rest, and the difference remains very noticeable every harvest.

One Part being once made finer, the Dews did more enrich it; for they penetrate within and beyond the Superficies, whereto the Roots are able to enter: The fine Parts of the Earth are impregnate, throughout their whole Substance, with some of the Riches carried in by the Dews, and there reposited; until, by new Tillage, the Insides of those fine Parts become Superficies; and as the Corn drains them, they are again supply’d as before; but the rough large Parts cannot have that Benefit; the Dews not penetrating to their Centres, they remain poorer.

Once the finer parts are made better, the dew enriches them even more; it seeps in and beyond the surface that the roots can reach. The finer soil is infused throughout its entire substance with some of the nutrients brought in by the dew, which are stored there until new tilling turns the insides of these fine parts into surfaces. As the crops draw from them, they are replenished just like before; however, the rough, larger parts don't get that benefit. Since the dew doesn't reach their centers, they stay poorer.

I think nothing can be said more strongly to confirm the Truth of this, than what is related by the Authors quoted by Mr. Evelyn[27], to this Effect, viz.

I believe nothing can reinforce the truth of this more than what is mentioned by the authors cited by Mr. Evelyn[27], to this effect, viz.

[27]In Pag. 17, 18, and 19, of his Phil. Discourse of Earth.

[27]In pages 17, 18, and 19 of his Phil. Discourse of Earth.

‘Take of the most barren Earth you can find, pulverize it well, and expose it abroad for a Year, incessantly agitated[28]; it will become so fertile as to receive an exotic Plant from the furthest Indies; and to cause all Vegetables to prosper in the most exalted Degree, and to bear their Fruit as kindly with us as in their natural Climates.’

‘Take the most barren land you can find, grind it up well, and leave it out for a year, constantly stirring it; it will become so fertile that it can support a foreign plant from the farthest Indies; and it will help all plants thrive to the highest degree, producing fruit as abundantly here as in their natural climates.’

[28]i. e. Stirr’d often.

[28]e.g. Stirred often.

[43]

[43]

This artificial Dust[29], he says, will entertain Plants which refuse Dung, and other violent Applications; and that it has a more nutritive Power than any artificial Dungs or Compost whatsoever: And further, that by this Toil of pulverizing, “’tis found, that Soil may be so strangely alter’d from its former Nature, as to render the harm and most uncivil Clay[30] obsequious to the Husbandmen, and to bring forth Roots and Plants, which otherwise require the lighted and hollowest Mould[31].”

This artificial Dust[29], he claims, will benefit Plants that reject Manure and other harsh methods; and that it has a more nourishing effect than any artificial Manures or Compost at all. Furthermore, through this process of grinding, "it’s discovered that Soil can be so remarkably changed from its original qualities, that the harmful and most stubborn Clay[30] becomes useful for Farmers, and can produce Roots and Plants that normally need the lightest and most porous Soil[31]."

[29]Tho’ it may be impossible for the Plough to reduce the whole Staple into so fine Powder, yet the more internal Superficies it makes, the more Dust will be made by the Atmosphere in Proportion; and great Clods perhaps are of no Use to Plants, but by that Dust they let fall, being thence extricated by the insensible Ferment of the nitrous Air; and the Surfaces of this artificial Dust must receive such Operations from the Air, before the utmost Fertility be obtain’d.

[29]Although it might be impossible for the Plough to grind the entire crop into fine powder, the more internal surface area it creates, the more dust will be generated by the atmosphere in proportion. Large clumps may not benefit plants directly, but the dust they release can be transformed by the subtle action of the nitrogen in the air. This artificial dust must undergo certain processes in the air before achieving the highest level of fertility.

[30]But I take harsh uncivil Clay to be the least profitable of any to keep in Tillage.

[30]But I consider rough, uncultivated clay to be the least productive type of soil to farm.

[31]To this Dust, Namque hoc imitamur arando ought to be apply’d, and not to Putre Solum, which itself needs Tillage, as well as strong Land: But it seems the Antients did not observe the Difference between natural Pores (or Hollowness) and artificial ones, tho’ it is very great; as is shewn in Chap. of Pasture of Plants: ’Tis easier indeed to imitate this artificial Dust in hollow than in strong Land.

[31]This Dust should be used for Namque hoc imitamur arando and not for Putre Solum, which also requires tilling, just like strong soil. However, it seems the ancients didn't recognize the difference between natural pores (or hollowness) and artificial ones, even though it's quite significant, as demonstrated in Chap. of Pasture of Plants: It's actually easier to mimic this artificial dust in hollow than in strong land.

’Tis to be suppos’d, that the Indian Plants had their due Degrees of Heat and Moisture given them; and I should not chuse to bestow this Toil upon the poorest of Earth in a Field or Garden, tho’ that be the most sure wherein to make the Experiment[32].

It is supposed that the Indian plants were given the right levels of heat and moisture; and I wouldn’t want to put this effort into the poorest soil in a field or garden, even though that is the most reliable place to conduct the experiment[32].

[32]This is the most proper Trial of the Effect of Pulveration by pounding and grinding; but Land may be so barren, that Plough or Spade may not be sufficient to pulverize it to that Degree, which is necessary to give it the same Fertility, that Pounding in a Mortar, or grinding betwixt Marbles (as Colours are ground), can.

[32]This is the most appropriate trial of the effect of pulverization by pounding and grinding; however, land can be so barren that using a plow or spade may not be enough to break it down sufficiently to achieve the same fertility that pounding in a mortar or grinding between stones (like colors are ground) can provide.

I never myself try’d this way of pounding or grinding, because impracticable in the Fields.

I never tried this method of pounding or grinding myself, because it's impractical in the fields.

But I have had the Experience of a Multitude of Instances, which confirm it so far, that I am in no[44] Doubt, that any Soil[33] (be it rich or poor) can ever be made too fine by Tillage[34].

But I have experienced countless examples that confirm it to the point that I have no doubt that any soil (whether rich or poor) can never be made too fine through cultivation.

[33]Land that is too hollow and light, having no Cement to join its Parts together, tho’ in Nature they are capable of infinite Division, yet in Practice the Plough cannot divide them to any Purpose, unless they were first join’d, but glides through without breaking them; being more like to the primary Particles of Water against the Plough, which are broken by no Force, than to Earth; it may be moved, but not broken by Tillage, and therefore ought not to be reputed arable; nor does it indeed deserve the Name of Land, but as the desart Sands of Lybia, to distinguish it from Sea.

[33]Land that is too hollow and light, lacking any cement to hold its parts together, although in nature they can be infinitely divided, cannot actually be separated by the plow for any useful purpose unless they are first joined. Instead, the plow just glides through without breaking them, more similar to the basic particles of water, which can't be broken by force, than to soil. It can be moved but not broken by cultivation, so it shouldn't be considered arable. In fact, it hardly deserves to be called land, but rather resembles the barren sands of Lybia, to set it apart from the sea.

[34]According to some, this Rule is only general, and not universal; for, say they, there’s a Sort of binding Gravel, that, when it is made fine, will, by a sudden Dash of Rain, run together like a Metal; and I have seen the same Accident in a particular Sort of white Land; but this very rarely happens to the latter: I never knew it above once, and that was after Barley was sown on it; the Hardness was only like a very thin Ice upon the Surface, which was some Hindrance to the coming up of the Barley, until the Harrow’s going over it once or twice broke that Ice or Crust, and then it came up very well.

[34]Some say this rule is just a guideline and not absolute; they argue that there’s a type of binding gravel that, when it's made fine, can form a solid mass after a sudden rain, similar to metal. I’ve seen the same thing happen with a specific kind of white soil, but this is very rare: I’ve only witnessed it once, and that was after barley was sown in it. The hardness was only like a thin layer of ice on the surface, which slightly delayed the barley's growth until the harrow had gone over it once or twice, breaking that ice or crust, and then the barley sprouted very well.

I never had any other Sort of Land liable to this Misfortune: therefore can say nothing to the Gravel in that Case, nor how deep the Constipation may reach in it, nor what Remedy is most proper to prevent the ill Consequence of it: But if there should be two or three Exceptions out of One thousand Seventy-nine Millions One thousand and Sixty different Sorts of Earth (see Mr. Evelyn’s Terra, p. 2), ’twill be no great Matter.

I never had any other kind of land that was subject to this problem: so I can't say anything about the gravel in that situation, or how deep the Constipation might go in it, or what remedy is best to avoid the negative effects of it. But if there happen to be two or three exceptions out of One thousand Seventy-nine Millions One thousand and Sixty different types of earth (see Mr. Evelyn’s Terra, p. 2), it won’t be a major issue.

But I think these are no real Exceptions against any Degree of Pulverizing; for it only shews, that some Sorts of Land, tho’ very few, are subject by Accident to lose too soon their Pulveration: And if the Fineness were no Benefit to that Land, such Loss of it would be no Injury to it.

But I think these are not real exceptions against any level of pulverizing; it just shows that some types of soil, although very rare, can accidentally lose their texture too quickly. And if the fineness didn't benefit that soil, then losing it wouldn't harm it.

For ’tis without Dispute, that one cubical Foot of this minute Powder may have more internal Superficies, than a thousand cubical Feet of the same, or any other Earth till’d in the common Manner; and, I believe no two arable Earths in the World do exceed one another in their natural Richness Twenty Times; that is, one cubical Foot of the richest is not able to produce an equal Quantity of Vegetables, cæteris paribus, to Twenty cubical Feet of the poorest;[45] therefore ’tis not strange, that the poorest, when by pulverizing it has obtain’d One hundred Times the internal Superficies of the rich untill’d Land, it should exceed it in Fertility; or, if a Foot of the poorest was made to have Twenty Times the Superficies of a Foot of such rich Land, the poorest might produce an equal Quantity of Vegetables with the rich[35]. Besides, there is another extraordinary Advantage, when a Soil has a larger internal Superficies in a very little Compass; for then the Roots of Plants in it are better supply’d with Nourishment, being nearer to them on all Sides within Reach, than it can be when the Soil is less fine, as in common Tillage; and the Roots in the one must extend much further than in the other, to reach an equal Quantity of Nourishment: They must range and fill perhaps above twenty Times more Space to collect the same Quantity of Food.

For it’s definitely true that one cubic foot of this fine powder can have more surface area inside than a thousand cubic feet of the same type or any other soil tilled in the usual way. I believe no two types of arable soil in the world exceed each other in natural richness by more than twenty times; that is, one cubic foot of the richest soil cannot produce as many vegetables, all else being equal, as twenty cubic feet of the poorest. So, it’s not surprising that the poorest soil, when it’s pulverized and has gained one hundred times the internal surface area of rich, untilled land, should be more fertile. If one foot of the poorest soil had twenty times the surface area of a foot of rich land, it might produce the same quantity of vegetables as the rich soil. Besides, there’s another significant advantage when a soil has a larger internal surface area in a small space; the roots of the plants in it have better access to nutrients because they’re closer to them on all sides, compared to when the soil is coarser, as in regular farming. The roots in the finely pulverized soil won’t have to stretch as far as they would in the coarser soil to access the same amount of nutrients. They would need to cover perhaps over twenty times more space to gather the same quantity of food.

[35]And very poor Land, well pulveriz’d, will produce better Corn than very rich will do, without Manure or Tillage. The Experiment may be made by paring off the Turf, and setting Corn in the whole Ground that is very rich; and that will shew how much the natural Pasture of the rich is inferior to the artificial Pasture of the poor Land; but then the poor must have this Proportion of Excess of internal Superficies continued to it, during the whole Time of their Growth, which cannot be done without frequently repeated Divisions of the Soil by Hoeing or Manure; else it might require forty Times the internal Superficies at the Time of Sowing, to keep twenty Times the internal Superficies of the rich till Harvest: For although the rich is continually losing some of its artificial Pasture, as well as the poor, yet by losing this equally, they still draw nearer and nearer to the first Inequality of their natural Pasture.

[35]And very poor land, well broken up, will yield better crops than very rich land will, without any fertilizer or cultivation. You can try this by cutting away the grass and planting corn in the whole area of very rich land; this will show how much the natural pasture of the rich land is worse than the artificial pasture of poor land. However, the poor land must have this extra surface area maintained throughout their entire growing period, which can only be done with regular tilling or fertilizing; otherwise, it might take forty times the surface area at the time of planting to sustain twenty times the surface area of the rich land until harvest. While the rich land continually loses some of its artificial pasture, just like the poor land, they still move closer and closer to the original inequality of their natural pasture.

But poor Land, being lighter, has this Advantage, that it being more friable than the strong, requires less Labour to pulverize it; and therefore the Expence of it is much less, than in proportion to the Excess of Poorness of its internal Superficies.

But poor land, being lighter, has this advantage: since it’s more friable than stronger soil, it requires less effort to break it up. As a result, the cost of working with it is much lower compared to the degree of its internal roughness.

But in this fine Soil, the most weak and tender Roots have free Passage to the utmost of their Extent, and have also an easy, due, and equal Pressure every-where, as in Water.

But in this rich soil, even the weakest and most delicate roots can spread as far as they need, with consistent, gentle pressure all around, just like in water.

[46]

[46]

Hard Ground makes a too great Resistance, as Air makes a too little Resistance, to the Superficies of Roots.

Hard ground offers too much resistance, while air provides too little resistance to the surfaces of roots.

Farmers, just when they have brought their Land into a Condition fit to be further till’d to much greater Advantage, leave off, supposing the Soil to be fine enough, when, with the Help of Harrows, they can cover the Seed; and afterwards with a Roller they break the Clods; to the End that, if a Crop succeed, they may be able to mow it, without being hinder’d by those Clods: By what I could ever find, this Instrument, call’d a Roller, is seldom beneficial to good Husbands; it rather untills the Land, and anticipates the subsiding of the Ground, which in strong Land happens too soon of itself[36].

Farmers, just when they've prepared their land to be cultivated much more effectively, stop, thinking the soil is good enough once they have used harrows to cover the seeds. Then, they use a roller to break up the clumps, so that if the crop grows well, they can harvest it without being hindered by those clumps. From what I've found, this tool, called a roller, is rarely helpful for good farmers; it actually disturbs the soil and speeds up the settling of the ground, which naturally happens too soon in strong soil.[36]

[36]This Injury the Roller does, is only when tis used to press down the Earth after the Seed is sown; and is the greater, if Land be moist; but the Rolling of it in dry Weather, when ’tis to be immediately plow’d up again, is the most speedy Way to pulverize the Soil; and the Harrow is then very useful in pulling up the Clods, to the End that the Roller may the better come at them to crush them.

[36]The injury caused by the roller happens only when it’s used to press down the earth after the seeds are planted. This damage is greater if the land is wet, but rolling it in dry weather, especially when it will be plowed up again right away, is the fastest way to break up the soil. The harrow is then very useful for breaking up clumps, so the roller can crush them more effectively.

But more to blame are they, who neglect to give their Land due Plowing, trusting to the Harrow to make it fine; and when they have thrown in their Seed, go over it twenty Times with the Harrows[37] till the Horses have trodden it almost as hard as a Highway, which in moist Weather spoils the Crop; but on the contrary, the very Horses, when the Earth is moist, ought all to tread in the Furrows only, as in plowing with a Hoe-Plough they always do, when they use it instead of a common Plough.

But they are more to blame who ignore properly plowing their land, relying on the harrow to smooth it out. After they’ve sown their seeds, they go over it twenty times with the harrows, which causes the soil to become hard like a highway, ruining the crop in wet weather. Instead, those horses should only walk in the furrows when the ground is moist, just like they do when using a hoe-plow instead of a regular plow.

[37]Nam veteres Romani dixerunt male subactum Agrum, qui satis Frugibus occandus sit.

[37]The ancient Romans called it poorly cultivated land, which should be enough to provide adequate crops.

Sed ut compluribus Iterationibus sic resolvatur vervactum in Pulverem, ut nullam vel exiguam desideret Occationem, cum seminaverimus. Col. Lib. 2. Cap. 4.

But let it be resolved through several iterations so that it reduces to powder, not missing even the slightest opportunity when we have sown. Col. Lib. 2. Cap. 4.


[47]

[47]

CHAP. 6.
Of Hoesing.

Hoeing is the breaking or dividing the Soil by Tillage, whilst the Corn or other Plants are growing thereon.

HBoeing is breaking or turning the soil through tilling while the corn or other plants are growing there.

It differs from common Tillage (which is always perform’d before the Corn or Plants are sown or planted) in the Times of performing it; ’tis much more beneficial; and ’tis perform’d by different Instruments.

It’s different from regular tillage (which is always done before sowing or planting corn or plants) in the timing of when it’s done; it’s much more beneficial, and it’s done with different tools.

Land that is before Sowing tilled never so much (tho’ the more ’tis till’d the more it will produce) will have some Weeds, and they will come in along with the Crop for a Share of the Benefit of the Tillage, greater or less, according to their Number, and what Species they are of.

Land that is prepared for planting, no matter how much it's worked (the more it's worked, the more it will yield), will have some weeds, and they will grow alongside the crop to share in the benefits of the cultivation, depending on their number and what type they are.

But what is most to be regarded is, that as soon as the Ploughman has done his Work of plowing and harrowing, the Soil begins to undo it, inclining towards, and endeavouring to regain, its natural specific Gravity; the broken Parts by little and little coalesce, unite, and lose some of their Surfaces; many of their Pores and Interstices close up during the Seed’s Incubation and Hatching in the Ground; and, as the Plants grow up, they require an Increase of Food proportionable to their increasing Bulk; but on the contrary, instead thereof, that internal Superficies, which is their artificial Pasture, gradually decreases.

But what’s most important to consider is that as soon as the farmer finishes plowing and harrowing, the soil starts to settle, working to regain its natural specific gravity. The broken pieces gradually come together, fuse, and lose some of their surfaces; many of their pores and gaps close up during the seed’s incubation and sprouting in the ground. As the plants grow, they need more nutrition to match their increasing size; however, the artificial nutrient surface they rely on slowly diminishes.

The Earth is so unjust to Plants, her own Off-spring, as to shut up her Stores in proportion to their Wants; that is, to give them less Nourishment when they have need of more: Therefore Man, for whose Use they are chiefly design’d, ought to bring in his reasonable[48] Aid for their Relief, and force open her Magazines with the Hoe, which will thence procure them at all times Provisions in Abundance, and also free them from Intruders; I mean, their spurious Kindred, the Weeds, that robb’d them of their too scanty Allowance.

The Earth is really unfair to Plants, her own children, by limiting her resources based on their needs; in other words, she provides them with less nourishment when they actually need more. So, humans, for whom plants are primarily intended, should step in and help them out by using tools like a hoe to break open her stores, ensuring that they always have plenty of supplies and also getting rid of unwanted pests—namely, the weeds that take away their already limited resources.

There’s no Doubt, but that one third Part of the Nourishment raised by Dung and Tillage, given to Plants or Corn at many proper Seasons, and apportion’d to the different Times of their Exigencies, will be of more Benefit to a Crop, than the Whole apply’d, as it commonly is, only at the time of Sowing. This old Method is almost as unreasonable as if Treble the full Stock of Leaves, necessary to maintain Silk-worms till they had finished their Spinning, should be given them before they are hatched, and no more afterwards.

There’s no doubt that giving one-third of the nutrients from dung and tillage to plants or crops at the appropriate times, tailored to their specific needs, will benefit a harvest more than applying everything all at once, like it's usually done at sowing. This outdated method is almost as unreasonable as supplying three times the amount of leaves needed to keep silkworms alive until they finish spinning, but only giving it to them before they hatch and nothing after that.

Next to Hoeing, and something like it, is Transplanting, but much inferior; both because it requires a so much greater Number of Hands, that by no Contrivance can it ever become general, nor does it succeed, if often repeated; but Hoeing will maintain any Plant in the greatest Vigour ’tis capable of, even unto the utmost Period of Age. Besides, there is Danger in removing a whole Plant, and Loss of Time before the Plant can take Root again, all the former Roots being broken off at the Ends in taking up (for ’tis impossible to do it without), and so must wait until by the Strength and Virtue of its own Sap (which by a continual Perspiration is daily enfeebled) new Roots are form’d, which, unless the Earth continue moist[38], are so long in forming, that they not only[49] find a more difficult Reception into the closing Pores; but many Times the Plant languishes and dies of an Atrophy, being starv’d in the midst of Plenty; but whilst this is thus decaying, the hoed Plant obtains a more flourishing State than ever, without removing from the same Soil that produc’d it.

Next to hoeing, and somewhat similar, is transplanting, but it’s much less effective. This is mainly because it needs many more hands, making it difficult to be done widely. It also doesn’t succeed if repeated too often. Hoeing, on the other hand, keeps any plant in peak condition for its entire life. Plus, there’s a risk in moving an entire plant, and it takes time before it can root again since the old roots are damaged during the process (it's impossible to avoid this). The plant has to wait for new roots to form from its sap, which weakens over time due to constant transpiration. If the soil isn’t kept moist, these roots take a long time to develop, making it harder for the plant to establish itself in the new soil. Often, the plant struggles and may die from lack of resources, even when there's plenty around. Meanwhile, the hoeing plant thrives more than ever, without being moved from the soil that nourished it.

[38]But when the Earth doth continue moist, many transplanted Vegetables thrive better than the same Species planted in Seeds, because the former, striking Root sooner, have a greater Advantage of the fresh-pulverized Mould, which loses some of its artificial Pasture before the Seeds have Roots to reach it. The same Advantage also have Seeds by soaking till ready to sprout before they are planted. To both these the Moisture of the Earth is necessary.

[38]But when the ground stays wet, many transplanted vegetables do better than the same types grown from seeds because the transplants establish roots faster, giving them a better chance to access the fresh, turned soil, which loses some of its nutrients before the seeds can reach it. Seeds also benefit by soaking until they're ready to sprout before being planted. In both cases, the moisture in the soil is essential.

’Tis observ’d that some Plants are the worse for Transplanting[39]. Fenochia removed is never so good and tender as that which is not, it receives such a Check in Transplanting in its Infancy; which, like the Rickets, leaves Knots that indurate the Parts of the Fennel, and spoil it from being a Dainty.

It’s noted that some plants don’t thrive after being transplanted[39]. Fenochia that’s been moved is never as good and tender as the one that hasn’t; it suffers a setback in its early growth from being transplanted, which, similar to Rickets, creates knots that harden the parts of the Fennel and ruin its quality as a delicacy.

[39]As most long Tap-rooted Plants are; for I have often try’d the Transplanting of Plants, of St. Foin and Luserne; and could never find, that any ever came near to the Perfection that those will do which are not removed, being equally single.

[39]Like most plants with long taproots; I've often tried transplanting plants like St. Foin and Luserne; but I've never found any that come close to the perfection of those that aren’t moved, as they are just as individual.

Tap-rooted Grasses and Turneps are always injured by Transplanting; their long Root once broken off never arrives at the Depth it would have arriv’d unbroken; as for this Reason they cut off the Tap-root of an Apple-tree, to prevent its running downward, by which it would have too much Moisture.

Tap-rooted grasses and turnips always suffer when transplanted; their long roots, once broken, never reach the depth they would have if they had remained intact. This is why they cut off the taproot of an apple tree, to stop it from growing downward, which would cause it to take in too much moisture.

Hoeing has most of the Benefits without any Inconveniences of Transplanting; because it removes the Roots by little and little, and at different Times; some of the Roots remaining undisturb’d, always supply the moved Roots with Moisture, and the whole Plant with Nourishment sufficient to keep it from fainting, until the moved Roots can enjoy the Benefit of their new Pasture, which is very soon.

Hoeing has most of the benefits without the drawbacks of transplanting. It gradually removes the roots over time, allowing some roots to stay undisturbed, which continuously provides moisture to the moved roots. This ensures that the whole plant gets enough nourishment to prevent wilting until the moved roots can benefit from their new environment, which happens quickly.

Another extraordinary Benefit of the new Hoeing[40] Husbandry is, that it keeps Plants moist in dry Weather, and this upon a double Account.

Another amazing benefit of the new hoeing [40] husbandry is that it keeps plants moist in dry weather, and this happens for two reasons.

[40]Hoeing may be divided into Deep, which is our Horse-hoeing, and Shallow, which is the English Hand-hoeing; and also the Shallow Horse-hoeing, used in some Places betwixt Rows, where the Intervals are very narrow, as sixteen or eighteen Inches; this is but an Imitation of the Hand-hoe, or a Succadaneum to it; and can neither supply the Use of Dung, nor of Fallow, and may be properly called Scratch-hoeing.

[40]Hoeing can be broken down into Deep, which is our Horse-hoeing, and Shallow, which is the English Hand-hoeing. There's also Shallow Horse-hoeing, used in certain areas between rows where the spaces are very narrow, like sixteen or eighteen inches. This is just a copy of the Hand-hoe, or a substitute for it, and it can't replace the need for manure or fallow land, so it can be accurately referred to as Scratch-hoeing.

[50]

[50]

First, as they are better nourished by Hoeing, they require less Moisture, as appears by Dr. Woodward’s Experiment, that those Plants which receive the greatest Increase, having most terrestrial Nourishment, carry off the least Water in Proportion to their Augment: So Barley or Oats, being sown on a Part of a Ground very well divided by Dung and Tillage, will come up and grow vigorously without Rain, when the same Grains, sown at the same Time, on the other Part, not thus enriched, will scarce come up; or, if they do, will not thrive till Rain comes.

First, since they are better nourished by hoeing, they need less moisture, as shown by Dr. Woodward’s experiment. Those plants that get the most nutrients from the soil use the least water in relation to their growth. For example, barley or oats planted in well-prepared soil enriched with manure will grow strongly without rain, while the same seeds sown at the same time in unprepared soil won’t grow much, or if they do, they won’t thrive until it rains.

Secondly, The Hoe, I mean the Horse-hoe (the other goes not deep enough), procures Moisture to the Roots from the Dews, which fall most in dry Weather; and those Dews (by what Mr. Thomas Henshaw has observ’d) seem to be the richest Present the Atmosphere gives to the Earth; having, when putrefy’d in a Vessel, a black Sediment like Mud at the Bottom. This seems to cause the darkish Colour to the upper Part of the Ground. And the Sulphur, which is found in the Sediment of the Dew, may be the chief Ingredient of the Cement of the Earth; Sulphur being very glutinous, as Nitre is dissolvent. Dew has both these.

Secondly, the hoe—specifically the horse-hoe (the other one doesn’t dig deep enough)—helps draw moisture to the roots from the dew, which falls mostly in dry weather. According to what Mr. Thomas Henshaw observed, this dew seems to be the richest gift the atmosphere offers to the earth; when it decays in a container, it leaves a black sediment that resembles mud at the bottom. This appears to give the upper part of the ground its dark color. The sulfur found in the sediment of the dew could be the main ingredient in the earth’s cement; sulfur is very sticky, just like how saltpeter is a solvent. Dew contains both of these.

These enter in proportion to the Fineness and Freshness of the Soil, and to the Quantity that is so made fine and fresh by the Hoe. How this comes to pass, and the Reason of it, are shewn in the Chapter of Tillage.

These depend on the quality and freshness of the soil, and on the amount that is made fine and fresh by the hoe. How this happens, and the reason for it, are explained in the Chapter of Tillage.

To demonstrate that Dews moisten the Land when fine, dig a Hole in the hard dry Ground, in the driest Weather, as deep as the Plough ought to reach: Beat the Earth very fine, and fill the Hole therewith; and, after a few Nights Dews, you’ll find this fine Earth become moist at the Bottom, and the hard Ground all round will continue dry.

To show that dew moistens the land when it's nice out, dig a hole in the hard, dry ground during the driest weather, as deep as a plow would go. Break the soil into small particles and fill the hole with it. After a few nights of dew, you'll see that the fine soil at the bottom has become moist, while the hard ground all around remains dry.

[51]

[51]

Till a Field in Lands; make one Land very fine by frequent deep Plowings; and let another be rough by insufficient Tillage, alternately; then plow the whole Field cross-ways in the driest Weather, which has continued long; and you will perceive, by the Colour of the Earth, that every fine Land will be turn’d up moist; but every rough Land will be dry as Powder, from Top to Bottom.

Till a field in sections; make one section really nice by plowing it deeply and often, and let another section be rough from not being tilled enough, alternating between the two. Then, plow the entire field crosswise during dry weather that has lasted for a while, and you'll notice from the color of the soil that every well-tended section will be turned up moist, while every rough section will be dry as dust, top to bottom.

Altho’ hard Ground, when thoroughly soak’d with Rain, will continue wet longer than fine till’d Land adjoining to it; yet this Water serves rather to chill, than nourish the Plants standing therein, and to keep out the other Benefits of the Atmosphere, leaving the Ground still harder when ’tis thence exhaled; and being at last once become dry, it can admit no more Moisture, unless from a long-continued Deluge of Rain, which seldom falls till Winter, which is not the Season for Vegetation.

Although hard ground, when completely soaked with rain, will stay wet longer than the fine cultivated land next to it, this water is more likely to chill the plants growing there than to nourish them. It also prevents the other benefits of the atmosphere from reaching the plants, making the ground even harder once the moisture evaporates. Once it finally dries out, it can’t absorb any more moisture unless there’s a prolonged heavy rain, which rarely occurs until winter, a time not suited for growth.

As fine hoed Ground is not so long soaked by Rain, so the Dews never suffer it to become perfectly dry: This appears by the Plants, which flourish and grow fat in this, whilst those in the hard Ground are starved, except such of them, which stand near enough to the hoed[41] Earth, for the Roots to borrow Moisture and Nourishment from it.

As well-tilled ground doesn't stay wet for long after rain, the dew prevents it from drying out completely. This is evident from the plants that thrive and grow lush in this soil, while those in hard ground struggle to survive, unless they are close enough to the tilled earth for their roots to get moisture and nutrients from it.

[41]As when Wheat is drill’d late in very poor Land, so that in the Spring the young Plants look all very yellow; let your Hoe-plough, making a crooked Line, like an Indenture, on one Side of a strait Row of this poor Wheat in the Spring, turn a Furrow from it; and in a short time you will see all those yellow Plants, that are contiguous to this Furrow, change their yellow Colour to a deep Green; whilst those Plants of the same Row, which stand farthest off from this indented Furrow, change not their Colour till afterwards; and all the Plants change or retain their Colour sooner or later gradually, as they stand nearer to, or farther from it; and the other Rows, which have no Furrow near them, continue their yellow, after all this Row is become green and flourishing: But this Experiment is best to be made in poor sandy Ground, when the Mould is friable; else perhaps the different Colour may not appear until the Furrow be turn’d back to the Row, having lain some time to be somewhat pulveriz’d (or impregnated) by the Weather, &c.

[41]Just like when wheat is sown late in very poor soil, resulting in the young plants looking yellow in the spring, use your hoe-plow to create a curved line, like an indent, on one side of a straight row of this poor wheat in the spring, and turn a furrow away from it. Soon, you'll notice that all those yellow plants close to this furrow will change from yellow to a deep green. Meanwhile, the plants in the same row that are further away from the furrow won’t change color until later. All the plants gradually change or hold onto their color, depending on their proximity to the furrow. The other rows that don’t have a furrow nearby will stay yellow even after the row near the furrow has turned green and lush. However, this experiment works best in poor, sandy ground when the soil is crumbly; otherwise, the color difference may not show until the furrow is returned to the row after sitting for a while to be somewhat broken down by the weather, &c.

This Experiment I often made on Wheat drill’d on the Level before I drill’d any on Ridges.

This experiment I often conducted on wheat sown on level ground before I sowed any on ridges.

The plowing one Furrow in sandy or mellow Ground makes a Pulveration, which is enjoy’d first by these Plants that are the nearest to it; and also delivers them from the Weeds, which, though there may be very few, yet there is a vast difference between their robbing the Wheat of its Pasture in the Row, and the Wheat’s enjoying both that and the whole Pasture of the Furrow also.

The act of plowing a furrow in sandy or soft soil creates a fine tilth, which benefits the plants closest to it. It also helps remove weeds, which, although there may be only a few, can significantly affect the wheat's access to nutrients in the row. The wheat thrives when it can access both those nutrients and the entire tilth of the furrow.

I never remember to have seen a Plant poor, that was contiguous to a well-hoed Interval, unless overpower’d by a too great Multitude of other Plants; and the same Exception must be made, if it were a Plant that required more or less Heat or Moisture, than the Soil or Climate afforded.

I don’t ever recall seeing a struggling plant next to a well-maintained area, unless it was overwhelmed by too many other plants. The same goes if the plant needed more or less heat or moisture than what the soil or climate provided.

[52]

[52]

And I have been informed by some Persons, that they have often made the like Observations; that, in the driest of Weather, good Hoeing[42] procures Moisture to Roots; tho’ the Ignorant and Incurious fansy, it lets in the Drought; and therefore are afraid to hoe their Plants at such Times, when, unless they water them, they are spoil’d for Want of it.

And I've been told by some people that they've often noticed the same thing: in dry weather, good hoeing [42] brings moisture to the roots. However, those who are ignorant and uninterested think it causes drought, so they hesitate to hoe their plants during those times, when, unless they water them, the plants will suffer for lack of it.

[42]When Land is become hard by lying too long unho’d, the Plough in turning a deep Furrow from each Side of a single Row of young Plants (suppose of Turneps) may crack the Earth quite through the Row, and expose the Roots to the open Air and Sun in very dry Weather; but if the Earth wherein the Plants stand be fine, there will be no Cracks in it: ’Tis therefore the delaying the Hoeing too long that occasions the Injury. But to hoe with Advantage against dry Weather, the Ground must have been well tilled or hoed before, that the Hoe may go deep, else the Dews, that fall in the Night, will be exhal’d back in the Heat of the Day.

[42]When the soil becomes hard from being left unhoed for too long, plowing a deep furrow beside a single row of young plants (let's say turnips) can crack the earth completely through the row and expose the roots to the open air and sun during very dry weather. However, if the soil where the plants are growing is fine, there won't be any cracks. It's the delay in hoeing that causes the damage. To hoe effectively in dry weather, the ground needs to be well tilled or hoed beforehand so that the hoe can go deep; otherwise, the dew that falls at night will evaporate in the heat of the day.

There is yet one more Benefit Hoeing gives to Plants, which by no Art can possibly be given to Animals: For all that can be done in feeding an Animal is, what has been here already said of Hoeing; that is, to give it sufficient Food, Meat and Drink, at the times it has occasion for them; if you give an Animal any more, ’tis to no manner of Purpose, unless you could give it more Mouths, which is impossible;[53] but in hoeing a Plant the additional Nourishment thereby given, enables it to send out innumerable additional Fibres and Roots, as in one of the Glasses with a Mint in it, is seen; which fully demonstrates, that a Plant increaseth its Mouths, in some Proportion to the Increase of Food given to it: So that Hoeing, by the new Pasture it raises, furnishes both Food and Mouths to Plants; and ’tis for Want of Hoeing, that so few are brought to their Growth and Perfection[43].

There’s one more advantage that hoeing provides to plants, which no skill can offer to animals. All you can do to feed an animal is what’s already been mentioned about hoeing—ensure it has enough food, meat, and water when it needs them. Giving an animal more is pointless unless you could somehow give it additional mouths, which is impossible; however, when you hoe a plant, the extra nutrients help it develop countless additional fibers and roots, as seen in one of the glasses with mint. This clearly shows that a plant increases its “mouths” in proportion to the food it receives. Therefore, hoeing creates new growth, providing both nourishment and additional “mouths” for plants. It’s the lack of hoeing that prevents so many plants from reaching their full potential.[53]

[43]A Ground was drill’d with Ray-grass and Barley, in Rows at Five Inches Distance from each other; it produced a pretty good Crop of Ray-grass the second Year as is usual; there was adjoining to it a Ground of Turneps, that were in Rows, with wide Intervals Horse-ho’d; they stood for Seed; and amongst them there was, in Room of a Turnep, a single Plant of Ray-grass, which, being hoed as the Turneps were, had (in every one’s Opinion that saw it) acquired a Bulk at least equal to a Thousand Plants of the same Species in the other Ground; tho’ that vast Plant had no other Advantage above the other, except its Singleness, and the deep Hoeing.

[43]A field was drilled with ryegrass and barley in rows spaced five inches apart; it produced a pretty good crop of ryegrass in the second year, as is typical. Next to it was a field of turnips, planted in rows with wide gaps between them for hoeing; they were intended for seed. Among them, instead of a turnip, there was a single plant of ryegrass that, being hoed like the turnips, had (according to everyone who saw it) grown to a size at least equal to a thousand plants of the same species in the other field; although that massive plant had no advantage over the others except for its uniqueness and the deep hoeing it received.

I have seen a Chickweed, by the same means, as much increas’d beyond its common Size; and a Plant of Mustard-seed, whose collateral Branches were much bigger than ever I saw a whole Plant of that Sort; it was higher than I could reach its Top, and indeed more like a Tree than an Herb; many other sorts of Plants have I seen thus increased beyond what I had ever observ’d before, but none so much as those.

I have seen a Chickweed that has grown significantly larger than usual, and a Plant of Mustard-seed with side branches much bigger than any whole plant of that kind I've ever seen; it was taller than I could reach at the top, and honestly, it looked more like a tree than a herb. I've observed many other kinds of plants that have also grown larger than I previously noticed, but none as much as these.

In what Manner the Sarrition of the Antients was performed in their Corn, is not very clear: This seems to have been their Method; viz. When the Plants were some time come up, they harrowed the Ground, and pull’d out the Weeds by Hand. The Process of this appears in Columella, where he directs the Planting of Medica to be but a Sort of Harrowing or Raking amongst the young Plants, that the Weeds might come out the more easily: Ligneis Rastris statim jacta Semina obruantur. Post Sationem Ligneis Rastris Jarriendus, & identidem runcandus est Ager, ne alterius generis Herba invalidam Medicam perimat.

In what way the sowing of the ancients was done in their corn is not very clear: This seems to have been their method; that is: When the plants had grown for some time, they would harrow the ground and pull the weeds out by hand. The process of this can be seen in Columella, where he instructs that planting Medica should be a kind of harrowing or raking among the young plants, so the weeds could be removed more easily: With wooden rakes, the seeds should be immediately covered. After sowing, the field should be regularly raked with wooden rakes, and frequently weeded, so that weeds of another kind do not destroy the weak Medica.

[54]

[54]

They harrowed and hoed Rastris; so that their Occatio and Sarritio were performed with much the same Sort of Instrument, and differed chiefly in the Time: The first was at Seed-time, to cover the Seed, or level the Ground; the other was to move the Ground after the Plants were up.

They plowed and tilled Rastris; so their Occatio and Sarritio were done with pretty much the same kind of tool, mainly differing in timing: The first was at planting time, to cover the seed or flatten the ground; the other was to work the soil after the plants had grown.

One Sort of their Sarrition was, Segetes permota Terra debere adobrui, ut fruticare possint. Another Sort was thus: In Locis autem frigidis sarriri nec adobrui, sed Plana Sarritione Terram permoveri.

One type of their plowing was, the earth must be prepared so that it can thrive. Another type was this: in cold places, plowing should not be done, but the soil must be worked with a level plow.

For the better Understanding of these two Sorts of Sarrition, we must consider, that the Antients sowed their Corn under Furrow; that is, when they had harrowed the Ground, to break the Clods, and make it level, they sowed the Seed, and then plowed it in: This left the Ground very uneven, and the Corn came up (as we see it does here in the same Case) mostly in the lowest Places betwixt the Furrows, which always lay higher: This appears by Virgil’s Cum Sulcos æquant Sata. Now, when they used Plana Sarritio, they harrowed Length-ways of the Furrows, which being somewhat harden’d, there could be little Earth thrown down thence upon the young Corn.

To better understand these two types of weeding, we need to consider that the ancients sowed their grain under the furrow. This means that after they broke up the soil with a harrow to make it level, they planted the seeds and then plowed them in. This method left the ground uneven, and the grain typically sprouted in the lowest areas between the furrows, which tended to be higher. This is illustrated in Virgil’s Cum Sulcos æquant Sata. When they used Plana Sarritio, they harrowed along the furrows, and since the soil was slightly compacted, very little earth could be thrown onto the young grain.

But the other Sort of Sarrition, whereby the Corn is said Adobrui, to be cover’d, seems to be perform’d by Harrowing cross the Furrows; which must needs throw down much Earth from the Furrows, which necessarily fell upon the Corn.

But the other type of Sarrition, where the grain is said to be Adobrui, seems to be done by harrowing across the furrows; this must throw down a lot of earth from the furrows, which then inevitably covers the grain.

How this did contribute to make the Corn fruticare, is another Question: I am in no doubt to say, it was not from covering any Part of it (for I see that has a contrary Effect), but from moving much Ground, which gave a new Pasture to the Roots: This appears by the Observation of the extraordinary Frutication of Wheat ho’d without being cover’d; and by the Injury it receives by not being uncover’d when any Earth falls on the Rows.

How this contributed to the growth of corn fruticare is another question. I'm certain it wasn't because any part of it was covered (because I see that has the opposite effect), but rather from disturbing the soil, which provided fresh nutrients for the roots. This is supported by observing the remarkable yield of wheat that was sown without being covered, and the damage it suffers when any earth falls on the rows without being uncovered.

The same Author saith, Faba, & cætera Legumina, cum quatuor Digitis à Terra extiterint, recte farrientur,[55] excepto tamen Lupino, cujus Semini contraria est Sarritio; quoniam unam Radicem habet, quæ sive Ferro succisa feu vulnerata est, totus Frutex emoritur.

The same author says, Beans and other legumes, when they are four fingers above the ground, are properly harvested,[55] except for the lupin, whose seed is harmed by weeding; because it has one root, which if cut or wounded by a tool, the whole plant dies.

If they had ho’d it only betwixt Rows, there had been no Danger of killing the Lupine, which is a Plant most proper for Hoeing. What he says of the Lupine’s having no need of Sarrition, because it is able of itself to kill Weeds, shews the Antients were ignorant of the chief Use of Hoeing; viz. to raise new Nourishment by dividing the Earth, and making a new Internal Superficies in it.

If they had just hoed between the rows, there wouldn’t have been any danger of damaging the lupine, which is a plant that's perfect for hoeing. What he says about the lupine not needing weeding because it can kill weeds on its own shows that the ancients didn’t understand the main purpose of hoeing; namely, to create new nutrients by turning the soil and creating a new surface within it.

Sarrition scratched and broke so small a Part of the Earth’s Surface, amongst the Corn and Weeds, without Distinction, or favouring one any more than the other, that it was a Dispute, whether the Good it did in facilitating the Runcation (or Hand-weeding) was greater, than the Injury it did by bruising and tearing the Corn: And many of the Antients chose rather to content themselves with the Use of Runcation only, and totally to omit all Sarrition of their Corn.

Sarrition scratched and disturbed such a small part of the Earth’s surface, among the corn and weeds, without preference or favoring one over the other, that there was a debate about whether the benefits it provided in making hand-weeding easier outweighed the damage it caused by bruising and tearing the corn. Many of the ancients preferred to stick with hand-weeding only and completely avoided using Sarrition on their corn.

But Hoeing is an Action very different from that of Sarrition, and is every Way beneficial, no-way injurious to Corn, tho’ destructive to Weeds. Therefore some modern Authors shew a profound Ignorance, in translating Sarritio, Hoeing: They give an Idea very different from the true one: For the Antients truly hoed their Vineyards, but not their Corn; neither did they plant their Corn in Rows, without which they could not give it the Vineyard-hoeing; Their Sarculation was used but amongst small Quantities of sown Corn, and is yet in Use for Flax; for I have seen the Sarculum (which is a Sort of a very narrow Hoe) used amongst the Plants of Flax standing irregularly: But this Operation is too tedious and too chargeable, to be apply’d to great Quantities of irregular Corn.

But hoeing is a very different action from sarritio and is helpful in every way, not harmful to corn, although it does kill weeds. Some modern authors show a serious misunderstanding by translating Sarritio as hoeing; they convey a meaning that is very different from the true one. The ancients really did hoe their vineyards, but not their corn; they also didn’t plant their corn in rows, which is necessary for giving it the vineyard hoeing treatment. Their sarculation was used only among small amounts of sown corn and is still used for flax. I've seen the Sarculum (which is a kind of very narrow hoe) used among flax plants that were planted irregularly. However, this method is too slow and too expensive to apply to large amounts of irregular corn.

If they ho’d their Crops sown at Random, one would think they should have made mad Work of[56] it; since they were not at the Pains to plant in Rows, and hoe betwixt them with their Bidens; being the Instrument with which they tilled many of their Vineyards, and enters as deep as the Plough, and is much better than the English Hoe, which indeed seems, at the first Invention of it, to be designed rather to scrape Chimneys, than to till the Ground.

If they planted their crops randomly, you’d think they would’ve made a mess of it; since they didn’t bother to plant in rows and hoe between them with their bidens. This tool is what they used to work many of their vineyards, reaching as deep as a plow, and is much better than the English hoe, which honestly seems like it was designed more for scraping chimneys than for farming.

The highest and lowest Vineyards are ho’d by the Plough; first the high Vineyards, where the Vines grow (almost like Ivy) upon great Trees, such as Elms, Maples, Cherry-trees, &c. These are constantly kept in Tillage, and produce good Crops of Corn, besides what the Trees do yield; and also these great and constant Products of the Vines are owing to this Sort of Hoe-tillage; because neither in Meadow or Pasture Grounds can Vines be made to prosper; tho’ the Land be much richer, and yet have a less Quantity of Grass taken off it, than the Arable has Corn carried from that.

The highest and lowest vineyards are tended by the plow; first the high vineyards, where the vines grow (almost like ivy) on large trees, such as elms, maples, cherry trees, &c. These are continuously cultivated and produce good crops of grain, in addition to what the trees provide; and the abundant and consistent yield of the vines is due to this method of hoe-tillage. Vines simply cannot thrive in meadows or pastures, even though the soil may be much richer and may have less grass removed compared to the arable land that has grain harvested from it.

The Vines of low Vineyards[44], ho’d by the[57] Plough, have their Heads just above the Ground, standing all in a most regular Order, and are constantly plowed in the proper Season: These have no other Assistance, but by Hoeing; because their Head and Roots are so near together, that Dung would spoil the Taste of the Wine they produce, in hot Countries.

The Vines of low Vineyards[44], tended by the[57] Plow, have their Tops just above the Ground, placed in a very organized manner, and are regularly plowed at the right time: They only receive help through Hoeing; because their Tops and Roots are so close together that Fertilizer would ruin the flavor of the Wine they produce in warm Countries.

[44]From these I took my Vineyard Scheme, observing that indifferent Land produces an annual Crop of Grapes and Wood without Dung; and though there is annually carried off from an Acre of Vineyard, as much in Substance as is carried off in the Crop of an Acre of Corn produced on Land of equal Goodness; and yet the Vineyard Soil is never impoverished, unless the hoeing Culture be denied it: But a few annual Crops of Wheat, without Dung in the common Management, will impoverish and emaciate the Soil.

[44]From these, I created my Vineyard Plan, noticing that average land can produce a yearly crop of grapes and wood without fertilizer. Although an acre of vineyard produces as much material each year as an acre of corn grown on land of similar quality, the vineyard soil never gets depleted unless proper cultivation is neglected. However, just a few yearly wheat crops without fertilizer in standard farming will deplete and weaken the soil.

The Vine indeed has the Advantage of being a large perennial Plant, and of receiving some Part of its Nourishment below the Staple; but it has also Disadvantages: The Soil of the Vineyard never can have a true Summer Fallow, tho’ it has much Summer Hoeing; for the Vines live in it, and all over it all the Year: neither can that Soil have Benefit from Dung, because though by increasing the Pulveration, it increases the Crop, yet it spoils the Taste of the Wine; the Exhaustion of that Soil is therefore supply’d by no artificial Help but Hoeing: And by all the Experience I have had of it, the same Cause will have the same Effect upon a Soil for the Production of Corn, and other Vegetables, as well as upon the Vineyard.

The vine definitely has the advantage of being a large perennial plant and getting some of its nourishment from below the surface, but it also has its downsides. The soil in a vineyard can never receive a true summer fallow, even though it undergoes a lot of summer hoeing, because the vines are alive and growing in it all year round. Additionally, that soil can’t benefit from manure, since while it may improve soil texture and boost the crop, it ruins the taste of the wine. Therefore, the depletion of that soil is only replenished through hoeing. From my experience, the same factors will produce the same effects on soil used for growing grains and other vegetables as they do on vineyard soil.

All Vineyards must be ho’d one Way or other[45], or else they will produce nothing of Value; but Corn-Fields without Hoeing do produce something, tho’ nothing in Comparison to what they would do with it.

All vineyards must be tended one way or another[45], or else they won't yield anything valuable; but cornfields, even without tending, produce something, although it's nothing compared to what they could yield with proper care.

[45]Vines, that cannot be ho’d by the Ploughs, are ho’d by the Bidens.

[45]Vines, which can't be tended to by the Plows, are managed by the Bidens.

Mr. Evelyn says, that when the Soil, wherein Fruit-Trees are planted, is constantly kept in Tillage, they grow up to be an Orchard in half the Time they would do, if the Soil were not till’d; and this keeping an Orchard-Soil in Arable, is Horse-hoeing it.

Mr. Evelyn says that when the soil where fruit trees are planted is regularly worked, they develop into an orchard in half the time it would take if the soil was not cultivated; and maintaining orchard soil in a plowed state involves horse-hoeing it.

In some Places in Berkshire they have used, for a long time to Hand-hoe most Sorts of Corn, with very great Success; and I may say this, that I myself never knew, or heard, that ever any Crop of Corn was properly so ho’d, but what very well answer’d the Expence, even of this Hand-work; but be this never so profitable, there are not a Number of Hands to use it in great Quantities; which possibly was one Reason the Antients were not able to introduce it into their Corn-Fields to any Purpose; tho’ they should not have been ignorant of the Effect of it, from what they saw it do in their Vineyards and Gardens.

In some areas of Berkshire, they've been successfully hand-hoeing most types of corn for a long time. I can honestly say that I've never known or heard of a corn crop that was properly hand-hoed and didn't pay off, even considering the labor involved. However profitable this method may be, there aren't enough people available to do it on a large scale, which might explain why the ancients couldn't implement it effectively in their cornfields, despite likely being aware of its benefits from their experiences in vineyards and gardens.

In the next Place I shall give some general Directions, which by Experience I have found necessary to be known, in order to the Practice of this Hoeing-Husbandry.

In the next section, I will provide some general guidelines that I've learned from experience are essential to understanding the practice of this hoe-based farming.

I. Concerning the Depth to plant at.
II. The Quantity of Seed to plant.
III. And the Distance of the Rows.

[58]

[58]

I. ’Tis necessary to know how deep we may plant our Seed, without Danger of burying it; for so ’tis said to be, when laid at a Depth below what ’tis able to come up at.

I. It’s important to know how deep we can plant our Seed without the risk of burying it; because it’s said that it gets buried when placed too deep for it to sprout.

Different Sorts of Seeds come up at different Depths; some at six Inches, or more; some at not more than half an Inch: The Way to know for certain the Depth any Sort will come up at is, to make Gauges in this Manner: Saw off 12 Sticks of about 3 Inches Diameter: Bore a Hole in the End of each Stick, and drive into it a taper Peg; let the first Peg be half an Inch long, the next an Inch, and so on; every Peg to be half an Inch longer than the former, till the last Peg be six Inches long; then in that sort of Ground where you intend to plant, make a Row of Twenty Holes with the half-Inch Gauge; put therein Twenty good Seeds; cover them up, and stick the Gauge at the End of that Row; then do the like with all the other Eleven Gauges: This will determine the Depth, at which the most Seeds will come up[46].

Different types of seeds sprout at different depths; some at six inches or more, others at no more than half an inch. The best way to know the exact depth for any type is to create gauges like this: Cut twelve sticks about three inches in diameter. Drill a hole in the end of each stick and insert a tapered peg; make the first peg half an inch long, the next one an inch, and so on, with each peg being half an inch longer than the previous one, until the last peg is six inches long. Then, in the area where you plan to plant, make a row of twenty holes using the half-inch gauge; put twenty quality seeds in there, cover them up, and place the gauge at the end of that row. Repeat this process with the other eleven gauges: This will help you determine the depth at which most seeds will sprout.[46].

[46]In the common way of Sowing tis hard to know the proper Depth, because some Seeds lying deep, and others shallow, it is not easy to discover the Depth of those that are buried: But I have found in drilling of black Oats, that when the Drill-Plough was set a little deeper for Trial, very few came up: Therefore ’tis proper for the Driller to use the Gauges for all Sorts of Seeds; for, if he drills them too deep, he may lose his Crop; or, if too shallow, in dry Weather, he may injure it, especially in Summer Seeds; but for those planted against Winter, there is the most Damage by planting too deep.

[46]In the usual method of planting, it's hard to know the right depth because some seeds need to be buried deep while others should be sown shallow. It's not easy to tell how deep the ones that are buried actually are. However, I've discovered that when drilling black oats, if the drill plow is set to go a bit deeper for testing, very few seeds actually sprout. So, it's essential for the driller to use gauges for all types of seeds. If they drill them too deep, they risk losing the crop; if too shallow, especially in dry weather, it can harm the plants, particularly for summer seeds. For those planted for winter, the most damage occurs when they are planted too deeply.

When the Depth is known, wherein the Seed is sure to come up, we may easily discover, whether the Seed be good or not, by observing how many will fail: For in some Sorts of Seeds the Goodness cannot be known by the Eye; and there has been often great Loss by bad Seed, as well as by burying good Seed; both which Misfortunes might be prevented by this little Trouble; besides ’tis not convenient to plant some sorts of Seed at the utmost Depth they[59] will come up at; for it may be so deep, as that the Wet may rot or chill the first Root, as in Wheat in moist Land.

When we know the right depth for planting, we can easily tell if the seed is good or not by seeing how many of them fail to sprout. Some types of seeds can’t be judged by appearance alone, and there’s often a significant loss from using bad seeds, as well as from burying good seeds too deep. Both of these problems could be avoided with a little extra effort. Additionally, it’s not ideal to plant certain seeds at the maximum depth they can handle; if the seeds are too deep, the moisture might rot or chill the initial root, like with wheat in wet soil.

The Nature of the Land, the Manner how it is laid, either flat, or in Ridges, and the Season of Planting, with the Experience of the Planter, acquired by such Trials, must determine the proper Depths for different Sorts of Seeds.

The type of land, whether it's flat or hilly, along with the planting season and the experience of the planter gained through trials, will determine the right planting depths for different types of seeds.

II. The proper Quantity of Seed to be drill’d on an Acre, is much less than must be sown in the common Way; not because Hoeing will not maintain as many Plants as the other; for, on the contrary, Experience shews it will, cæteris paribus, maintain more; but the Difference is upon many other Accounts: As that ’tis impossible to sow it so even by Hand, as the Drill will do; for let the Hand spread it never so exactly (which is difficult to do some Seeds, especially in windy Weather), yet the Unevenness of the Ground will alter the Situation of the Seed; the greatest Part rebounding into the Holes, and lowest Places; or else the Harrows, in Covering, draw it down thither; and tho’ these low Places may have Ten Times too much, the high Places may have little or none of it: This Inequality lessens, in Effect, the Quantity of the Seed; because Fifty Seeds, in Room of One, will not produce so much as One will do; and where they are too thick, they cannot be well nourished, their Roots not spreading to near their natural Extent, for Want of Hoeing to open the Earth. Some Seed is buried (by which is meant the laying them so deep, that they are never able to come up, as Columella cautions, Ut absque ulla Resurrectionis Spe sepeliantur): Some lies naked above the Ground; which, with more uncovered by the first Rain, feeds the Birds and Vermin.

II. The right amount of seed to drill on an acre is much less than what needs to be sown using the traditional method. This isn't because hoeing can't support as many plants as the other method; in fact, experience shows that it can, all else being equal. The difference lies in several other factors. It’s impossible to sow seeds by hand as evenly as a drill can. Even if someone spreads the seeds perfectly by hand (which is challenging for some types of seeds, especially in windy weather), the unevenness of the ground affects the placement of the seeds. Most of them will bounce into holes and low spots, or the harrows, while covering them, will pull seeds down into those areas. While these low spots may end up with ten times as many seeds, the high spots might have little to none. This inequality effectively reduces the amount of seed because fifty seeds in place of one won't yield as much as one seed would. When seeds are too densely packed, they can’t get the nourishment they need, as their roots don’t have enough room to grow to their natural extent due to the lack of hoeing to aerate the soil. Some seeds are buried too deeply, meaning they’re never able to sprout, as Columella warns, "Ut absque ulla Resurrectionis Spe sepeliantur." Others lie exposed above the ground, and when it rains and washes more seeds out, they become food for birds and pests.

Farmers know not the Depth that is enough to bury their Seed, neither do they make much Difference in the Quantity they sow on a rough, or a[60] fine Acre; tho’ the same that is too little for the one, is too much for the other; ’tis all mere Chance-work, and they put their whole Trust in good Ground, and much Dung, to cover their Errors.

Farmers don’t know how deep is deep enough to bury their seeds, and they don’t really change the amount they sow on a rough or a[60] smooth acre; even though the amount that’s too little for one is too much for the other. It’s all a matter of chance, and they rely entirely on good soil and plenty of fertilizer to cover up their mistakes.

The greatest Quantity of Seed I ever heard of to be usually sown, is in Wiltshire, where I am informed by the Owners themselves, that on some Sorts of Land they sow Eight Bushels of Barley to an Acre; so that if it produce four Quarters to an Acre, there are but four Grains for one that is sown, and is a very poor Increase, tho’ a good Crop; this is on Land plowed once, and then double-dung’d, the Seed only harrow’d into the stale and hard Ground[47]; ’tis like not two Bushels of the eight will enter it to grow; and I have heard, that in a dry Summer an Acre of this scarce produces four Bushels at Harvest.

The largest amount of seed I've ever heard of being typically sown is in Wiltshire, where the owners themselves tell me that on some types of land, they sow eight bushels of barley per acre. So, if it produces four quarters per acre, that's just four grains for every one that’s sown, which is a very poor return, even though it's a good crop. This is on land that’s plowed once and then fertilized twice, with the seed simply harrowed into the stale and hard ground[47]; it’s unlikely that even two bushels of the eight will actually take root and grow, and I've heard that in a dry summer, an acre of this only yields about four bushels at harvest.

[47]Stale Ground is that which has lain some considerable time after Plowing, before it is sown, contrary to that which is sown immediately after plow’d; for this last is generally not so hard as the former.

[47]Stale Ground is land that has been left for a while after being plowed before it's planted, unlike land that is sown right after plowing; the latter is usually not as compacted as the former.

But, in Drilling, Seed lies all the same just Depth, none deeper, nor shallower, than the rest; here’s no Danger of the Accidents of burying, or being uncover’d, and therefore no Allowance must be made for them; but Allowance must be made for other Accidents, where the Sort of Seed is liable to them; such as Grub, Fly, Worm, Frost, &c.

But in drilling, seed is still just depth, no deeper or shallower than the others; there’s no risk of accidents from being buried or uncovered, so we shouldn’t account for those. However, we do need to consider other risks that specific types of seed are prone to, like grubs, flies, worms, frost, &c.

Next, when a Man unexperienced in this Method has proved the Goodness of his Seed, and Depth to plant at it, he ought to calculate what Number of Seeds a Bushel, or other Measure or Weight, contains: For one Bushel or one Pound of small Seed, may contain double the Number of Seeds, of a Bushel, or a Pound, of large Seed of the same Species.

Next, when a man who's not experienced with this method has tested the quality of his seeds and knows the right planting depth, he should figure out how many seeds are in a bushel or any other measure or weight. Because a bushel or a pound of small seeds can have twice the number of seeds compared to a bushel or a pound of larger seeds of the same type.

This Calculation is made by weighing an Ounce, and counting the Number of Seeds therein; then weighing a Bushel of it, and multiplying the Number of Seeds of the Ounce, by the Number of Ounces[61] of the Bushel’s Weight; the Product will shew the Number of Seeds of a Bushel near enough: Then, by the Rule of Three, apportion them to the Square Feet of an Acre; or else it may be done, by divideing the Seeds of the Bushel by the Square Feet of an Acre; the Quotient will give the Number of Seeds for every Foot: Also consider how near you intend to plant the Rows, and whether Single, Double, Treble, or Quadruple; for the more Rows, the more Seed will be required[48].

This calculation is done by weighing an ounce and counting the number of seeds in it. Then, weigh a bushel of that seed and multiply the number of seeds in the ounce by the number of ounces in the weight of the bushel. The result will show you the approximate number of seeds in a bushel. Next, using the rule of three, you can distribute that number to the square feet of an acre. Alternatively, you can divide the seeds in the bushel by the square feet of an acre; the result will give you the number of seeds for each foot. Also, consider how closely you plan to plant the rows—whether single, double, triple, or quadruple—because the more rows you have, the more seed you will need.

[48]The narrow Spaces (suppose seven Inches) betwixt Double, Treble, or Quadruple Rows, the Double having One, the Treble Two, and the Quadruple Three of them, are called Partitions.

[48]The narrow gaps (let's say seven inches) between double, triple, or quadruple rows—where the double has one, the triple has two, and the quadruple has three—are called partitions.

The wide Space (suppose of near five Feet) betwixt any Two of these Double, Treble, or Quadruple Rows, is call’d an Interval.

The wide space (about five feet) between any two of these double, triple, or quadruple rows is called an interval.

Examine what is the Produce of one middle-siz’d Plant of the Annual, but the Produce of the best and largest of the perennial Sort; because that by Hoeing will be brought to its utmost Perfection: Proportion the Seed of both to the reasonable Product; and, when ’tis worth while, adjust the Plants to their competent Number with the Hand-hoe, after they are up; and plant Perennials generally in single Rows: Lastly, Plant some Rows of the Annual thicker than others, which will soon give you Experience (better than any other Rule) to know the exact Quantity of Seed to drill.

Examine what you get from a middle-sized annual plant compared to the yield of the best and largest perennial plant, as hoeing will help the annual reach its full potential. Adjust the seeds of both types to produce a reasonable output; and when necessary, use a hand hoe to organize the plants to their proper number once they’ve sprouted. Typically, plant perennials in single rows. Finally, plant some rows of annuals more densely than others, which will quickly give you experience—better than any other rule—for knowing the exact amount of seed to sow.

III. The Distances of the Rows are one of the most material Points, wherein we shall find many apparent Objections against the Truth; of which, tho’ full Experience be the most infallible Proof, yet the World is by false Notions so prejudiced against wide Spaces between Rows, that unless these common (and I wish I could say, only vulgar) Objections be first answer’d, perhaps no-body will venture so far out of the old Road, as is necessary to gain the Experience; without it be such as have seen it.

III. The distances between the rows are one of the most important points where we will encounter many obvious objections to the truth. Although firsthand experience is the most reliable proof, people are so biased against wide spaces between rows due to misconceptions that unless these common (and I wish I could say, only ignorant) objections are addressed first, probably no one will be willing to stray from the traditional path enough to gain that experience, unless they have already witnessed it.

[62]

[62]

I formerly was at much Pains, and at some Charge, in improving my Drills, for planting the Rows at very near Distances; and had brought them to such Perfection, that One Horse would draw a Drill with Eleven Shares, making the Rows at three Inches and half Distance from one another; and at the same Time sow in them Three very different Sorts of Seeds, which did not mix; and these too, at different Depths; as the Barley-Rows were seven Inches asunder, the Barley lay four Inches deep; a little more than three Inches above that, in the same Chanels, was Clover; betwixt every Two of these Rows was a Row of St. Foin, cover’d half an Inch deep.

I used to put in a lot of effort and some money into improving my drills for planting rows very close together. I got them to such a level of perfection that one horse could pull a drill with eleven shares, creating rows just three and a half inches apart. At the same time, I could sow three different kinds of seeds in those rows without them mixing, and at different depths: the barley rows were seven inches apart, and the barley was planted four inches deep; a little more than three inches above that, in the same channels, was clover; and between every two of these rows, there was a row of St. Foin, which was covered half an inch deep.

I had a good Crop of Barley the first Year; the next Year, Two Crops of Broad-Clover, where that was sown; and where Hop-Clover was sown, a mix’d Crop of That and St. Foin, and every Year afterwards a Crop of St. Foin; but I am since, by Experience, so fully convinced of the Folly of these, or any other such mix’d Crops, and more especially of narrow Spaces, that I have demolish’d these Instruments (in their full Perfection) as a vain Curiosity, the Drift and Use of them being contrary to the true Principles and Practice of Horse-Hoeing.

I had a great barley harvest in the first year; the next year, I got two crops of broad clover where I had sown it; and where I had sown hop clover, there was a mixed crop of that and stag’s horn clover, followed by a crop of stag's horn clover every year after. However, I've learned from experience that these mixed crops, especially when planted in narrow spaces, are not wise. I've since gotten rid of these tools (in their perfect form) as a pointless curiosity, since their purpose and use go against the true principles and practice of horse hoeing.

Altho’ I am satisfied, that every one, who shall have seen as much of it as I have, will be of my Mind in this Matter; yet I am aware, that what I am going to advance, will seem shocking to them, before they have made Trials.

Although I am confident that anyone who has experienced as much of this as I have will share my opinion on the matter, I recognize that what I am about to say will seem shocking to them until they have tried it for themselves.

I lay it down as a Rule (to myself) that every Row of Vegetables, to be Horse-ho’d, ought to have an empty Space or Interval of thirty Inches on one Side of it[49] at least, and of near five Feet in all Sorts of Corn.

I make it a rule for myself that every row of vegetables that needs to be hoed should have an empty space or gap of at least thirty inches on one side, and about five feet for all types of corn.

[49]Note, We call it one Row, tho’ it be a Double, Treble, or Quadruple Row; because when they unite in the Spring, they seem to be all single; even the Quadruple then is but as one single Row.

[49]Note, We refer to it as one Row, even though it might be a Double, Treble, or Quadruple Row; because when they come together in the Spring, they all appear to be single; even the Quadruple seems like just one single Row.

Observe, that as wide Intervals are necessary for perfect Horse-hoeing, so the largest Vegetables have generally the greatest Benefit by them; tho’ small Plants may have considerable Benefit from much narrower Intervals than Five Feet.

Observe that wide spaces are essential for effective horse cultivation, and generally, larger plants benefit the most from these gaps. However, smaller plants can still gain significant advantages from much narrower spaces than five feet.

The Intervals may be somewhat narrower for constant annual Crops of Barley, than of Wheat; because Barley does not shut out the Hoe-Plough so soon, nor require so much Room for Hoeing, nor so much Earth in the Intervals, it being a lesser Plant, and growing but about a Third-part of the Time on the Ground; but he that drills Barley, must resolve to reap it, and bind it up in Sheaves; for if he mows it, or does not bind it, a great Part will be lost among the Earth in the Intervals: But ’tis now found, that in a wet Harvest the best Way is not to bind up drill’d Barley or Oats; but instead thereof, to make up the Grips into little Heaps by Hands, laying the Ears upon one another inwards, and the Stubble-ones outwards; so that with a Fork that hath Two Fingers, and a Thumb, ’tis very easy to pitch such Heaps up the Waggons without scattering, or wasting any of the Corn.

The gaps may be a bit narrower for yearly crops of barley than for wheat because barley doesn't block the hoe-plow as quickly, doesn't need as much space for hoeing, and requires less soil in the gaps since it's a smaller plant and grows for about a third of the time compared to wheat. However, anyone planting barley must prepare to reap it and tie it up in sheaves; if they mow it or don't bind it, a significant portion will be lost in the soil between the plants. It’s now understood that during a wet harvest, the best method is not to bind up drilled barley or oats; instead, it's better to gather them into small piles by hand, laying the ears inward and the stubble outward. This way, with a fork that has two prongs and a handle, it's very easy to load these piles onto the wagons without spilling or wasting any of the grain.

’Tis also seen, that when the Reapers take Care to set their Grips with the But-ends in the Bottoms of the Intervals, and the Ears properly on the Stubble, they will so stand up from the Ground, as to escape much better from sprouting, than mow’d Corn.

It’s also noticed that when the reapers make sure to place their grips with the ends at the bottoms of the gaps and the ears properly on the stubble, they will stand up from the ground much better and avoid sprouting more effectively than cut corn.

[63]

[63]

In Hand-hoeing there is always less Seed, fewer Plants, and a greater Crop, cæteris paribus, than in the common Sowing: Yet there, the Rows must be much nearer together, than in Horse-hoeing; because as the Hand moves many times less Earth than the Horse, the Roots will be sent out in like Proportion; and if the Spaces or Intervals, where the Hand-hoe only scratches a little of the upper Surface of them, should be wide, they would be so hard and stale underneath, that the Roots of perennial Plants would be long in running thro’ them; and the Roots of many annual Plants would never be able to do it.

In hand-hoeing, there’s always less seed, fewer plants, and a bigger crop, cæteris paribus, than with common sowing. However, the rows need to be much closer together than in horse-hoeing, because a person's hand moves much less soil than a horse does, so the roots will spread out in a similar way. If the spaces or gaps, where the hand hoe only stirs a bit of the surface, are too wide, the soil underneath will become hard and compacted, making it difficult for the roots of perennial plants to penetrate, and annual plant roots may never be able to grow through at all.

An Instance which shews something of the Difference between Hand-hoeing and Deep-hoeing is, That a certain poor Man is observ’d to have his Cabbages vastly bigger than any-body’s else, tho’ their Ground be richer, and better dung’d: His Neighbours were amaz’d at it, till the Secret at length came out, and was only this: As other People ho’d their Cabbages[64] with a Hand-hoe, he instead thereof dug his with a Spade: And nothing can more nearly equal[50] the Use of the Horse-hoe than the Spade does.

An example that shows the difference between hand-hoeing and deep-hoeing is that a certain poor man has much larger cabbages than anyone else's, even though his soil is richer and better fertilized. His neighbors were amazed until the secret was finally revealed: while others hoed their cabbages with a hand hoe, he dug his with a spade. And nothing compares more closely to the effectiveness of the horse-hoe than the spade does.[64]

[50]The Hoe-plough exceeds the Spade in this Respect, that it removes more of the Roots, and cuts off fewer; which is an Advantage when we till near to the Bodies of Plants that are grown large.

[50]The hoe-plough is better than the spade in that it removes more roots and cuts off fewer. This is an advantage when we’re working close to the bases of larger plants.

And when the Plants have never so much Pabulum near them, their fibrous Roots cannot reach it all, before the Earth naturally excludes them from it; for, to reach it all, they must fill all the Pores[51], which is impossible: So far otherwise it is, that we shall find it probable, that they can only reach the least Part of it, unless the Roots could remove themselves from Place to Place, to leave such Pores as they had exhausted, and apply themselves to such as were unexhausted; but they not being endow’d with Parts necessary for local Motion (as Animals are), the Hoe-Plough suplies their Want of Feet; and both conveys them to their Food, and their Food to them, as well as provides it for them; for by transplanting the Roots, it gives them Change of the Pasture, which it increases by the very Act of changing them from one Situation to another, if the Intervals be wide enough for this Hoeing Operation to be properly perform’d.

And when plants have plenty of nutrients around them, their fibrous roots can't reach it all before the soil naturally cuts them off. To access everything, they would need to fill all the pores, which is impossible. In fact, it's likely that they can only access a small part of it unless the roots could move from place to place, leaving behind the pores they've used up and reaching out to those that are still available. But since they don't have the necessary parts for local movement like animals do, the hoeing process compensates for their lack of mobility. It not only brings them to their food but also brings their food to them, and it provides food as well. By transplanting the roots, it offers a change of nutrients, which is enhanced by actually moving them from one spot to another, provided that the distances are wide enough for the hoeing to be done properly.

[51]The Roots of a Mint, set a whole Summer in a Glass, kept constantly replenished with Water, will, in Appearance, fill the whole Cavity of the Glass; but by compressing the Roots, or by observing how much Water the Glass will hold when the Roots are in it, we are convinc’d, that they do not fill a Fourth-part of its Cavity; tho’ they are not stopp’d by Water, as they are by Earth.

[51]The roots of a mint plant, kept in a glass filled with water throughout the summer, will seem to occupy the entire space in the glass. However, if we compress the roots or see how much water the glass can hold when the roots are inside, we realize that they only fill about a quarter of the space. Unlike when they’re in soil, they’re not blocked by the water.

The Objections most likely to prepossess Peoples Minds, and prevent their making Trials of this Husbandry, are these:

The objections that are most likely to sway people's opinions and stop them from trying out this farming method are these:

First, they will be apt to think, that these wide, naked Spaces, not being cover’d by the Plants, will not be sufficient to make a good Crop.

First, they are likely to think that these wide, bare areas, not being covered by plants, won't be enough to produce a good crop.

For Answer, we must consider, that tho’ Corn, standing irregular and sparsim, may seem to cover[65] the Ground better than when it stands regular in Rows; this Appearance[52] is a mere Deceptio visus; for Stalks are never so thick on any Part of the Ground as where many come out of one Plant, or as when they stand in a Row; and a ho’d Plant of Corn will have Twenty or Thirty Stalks[53], in the same Quantity of Ground where an unho’d Plant, being equally single, will have only Two or Three Stalks. These tillered ho’d Stalks, if they were planted sparsim all over the Interval, it might seem well cover’d, and perhaps thicker than the sown Crop commonly is; so that tho’ these ho’d Rows seem to contain a less Crop, they may contain, in reality, a greater Crop than the sown, that seems to exceed it; and ’tis only the different Placing that makes one seem greater, and the other less, than it really is; and this is only when both Crops are young.

To answer this, we need to recognize that while corn, growing unevenly and sparsim, may appear to cover the ground better than when it's planted in straight rows, this is just an optical illusion. Stalks are never as dense on any part of the ground as they are when many come from a single plant or when they’re planted in rows. A tilled corn plant can have twenty or thirty stalks in the same amount of space where an untended plant, still single, will have only two or three stalks. If these tillered stalks were spread out sparsim throughout the area, it might seem well-covered, and perhaps thicker than the typical sown crop. So even though these tilled rows might look like they yield less, they can actually produce more than the sown crop that seems to be more abundant. It’s just the arrangement that makes one appear larger and the other smaller than it really is, and this is only noticeable when both crops are young.

[52]For the Eye to make a Companion betwixt a sown Crop and such a ho’d Crop, it ought, when ’tis half grown, to look on the ho’d Crop across the Rows; because in the other it does so, in Effect, which way soever it looks; but whatever Appearance the ho’d Crop of Vegetables (of as large a Species as Wheat) makes when young, it surely, if well managed, appears more beautiful at Harvest than a sown Crop.

[52]For the Eye to compare a planted crop with a hoe'd crop, it should, when it's halfway grown, look at the hoe'd crop across the rows; because in the other it does so, in effect, no matter which way it looks; however, whatever appearance the hoe'd crop of vegetables (of a species as large as wheat) has when young, it certainly, if properly cared for, looks more beautiful at harvest than a planted crop.

[53]I have counted Fifty large Ears on one single ho’d Plant of Barley.

[53]I have counted fifty big ears on one single stalk of barley.

The next Objection is, That the Space or Interval not being planted, much of the Benefit of that Ground will be lost; and therefore the Crop must be less than if it were planted all over.

The next objection is that since the space or area is not planted, a lot of the benefit of that land will be lost; therefore, the yield will be smaller than if it were fully planted.

I answer, It might be so, if not Horse-ho’d; but if well Horse-ho’d, the Roots can run through the Intervals; and, having more Nourishment, make a greater Crop.

I respond, It could be the case, if it’s not Horse-hoed; but if it is properly Horse-hoed, the Roots can spread through the Gaps; and, with more Nutrients, produce a larger Harvest.

The too great Number of Plants, plac’d all over the Ground in common sowing, have, whilst it is open, an Opportunity of wasting, when they are very young, that Stock of Provision, for Want of which the greatest Part of them are afterwards starv’d; for[66] their irregular Standing prevents their being relieved with fresh Supplies from the Hoe: Hence it is, that the old Method exhausting the Earth to no Purpose, produces a less Crop; and yet leaves less Pabulum behind for a succeeding one, contrary to the Hoeing-Husbandry, wherein Plants are manag’d in all Respects by a quite different Oeconomy.

The excessive number of plants, spread across the ground in a random sowing, have, while they are still young, the chance of wasting their stock of nutrients, which is why most of them end up starving later; their irregular spacing prevents them from getting fresh supplies from the hoe. As a result, the traditional method that exhausts the soil does so without any benefit, leading to a smaller crop and leaving even fewer nutrients for the next one, unlike hoeing agriculture, where plants are managed in a completely different way.

In a large Ground of Wheat it was prov’d, that the widest ho’d Intervals brought the greatest Crop of all: Dung without Hoeing did not equal Hoeing without Dung. And what was most remarkable, amongst Twelve Differences of wider and narrower Spaces, more and less ho’d, dung’d and undung’d, the Hand-sow’d was considerably the worst of all; tho’ all the Winter and Beginning of the Spring, that made infinitely the most promising Appearance; but at Harvest yielded but about One-fifth Part of Wheat of that which was most hoed; there was some of the most hoed, which yielded Eighteen Ounces of clean Wheat in a Yard in Length of a double Row, the Intervals being thirty Inches, and the Partition Six Inches[54].

In a large wheat field, it was proven that the widest spaced intervals produced the best crop. Manure without hoeing didn't compare to hoeing without manure. What was most surprising, among twelve variations of wider and narrower spaces, more and less hoeing, manured and non-manured, the hand-sown was significantly the worst of all. Even though it looked incredibly promising all winter and at the start of spring, it only yielded about one-fifth of the wheat produced by the most hoed sections at harvest time. Some of the most hoed areas produced eighteen ounces of clean wheat for each yard length of a double row, with thirty-inch intervals and a six-inch partition.[54].

[54]The same Harvest, a Yard in Length of a double Row of Barley, having Six Inches Partition, produc’d Eight hundred and Eighty Ears in a Garden; but the Grains happened to be eaten by Poultry before ’twas ripe, so that their Produce of Grains could not be known: One like Yard of a ho’d Row of Wheat, in an undung’d Field, produc’d Four hundred Ears of Lammas-Wheat.

[54]The same harvest, a yard long of a double row of barley, with a six-inch gap, produced eight hundred and eighty ears in a garden; however, the grains were eaten by poultry before they ripened, so their grain yield couldn't be determined: A similar yard of a tilled row of wheat, in an unmanured field, produced four hundred ears of Lammas wheat.

A Third Objection like the two former is, that so small a Part of the Ground, as that whereon the Row stands, cannot contain Plants or Stalks sufficient for a full Crop.

A third objection, similar to the previous two, is that such a small area of land, like the one where the row stands, can't hold enough plants or stalks for a complete harvest.

This some Authors endeavour to support by Arguments taken from the perpendicular Growth of Vegetables, and the Room they require to stand on; both which having answer’d elsewhere, I need not say much of them here; only I may add, that if Plants could be brought to as great Perfection, and so to[67] stand as thick all over the Land, as they do in the ho’d Rows, there might be produced, at once, many of the greatest Crops of Corn that ever grew.

Some authors try to back this up with arguments about how vegetables grow upright and the space they need to thrive. Since I've addressed those points elsewhere, I won't say much here. I will add, though, that if plants could be cultivated to such perfection and planted as closely together across the land as they are in rows, we could achieve some of the largest harvests of grain ever recorded.

But since Plants thrive, and make their Produce, in Proportion to the Nourishment they have within the Ground, not to the Room they have to stand upon it, one very narrow Row may contain more Plants than a wide Interval can nourish, and bring to their full Perfection, by all the Art that can be used; and ’tis impossible a Crop should be lost for want of room to stand above the Ground, tho’ it were less than a Tenth-part of the Surface[55].

But since plants grow and produce in relation to the nutrients they have in the soil, not based on the space they occupy, a very narrow row can hold more plants than a wide area can support and help reach their full potential with all the techniques that can be applied. It's impossible for a crop to fail simply because it doesn't have enough space above ground, even if it takes up less than a tenth of the available surface. A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__.

[55]Mr. Houghton calculates, that a Crop of Wheat of Thirty Quarters to an Acre, each Ear has two Inches and a Half of Surface; by which ’tis evident, that there would be Room for many such prodigious Crops to stand on.

[55]Mr. Houghton estimates that a wheat crop of thirty quarters per acre has each ear measuring two and a half inches in surface area; it’s clear that there would be space for many such extraordinary crops to grow.

And a Quick-hedge, standing between two Arable Grounds, one Foot broad at Bottom, and Eighteen Feet in Length, will, at fourteen Years Growth, produce more of the same Sort of Wood, than eighteen Feet square of a Coppice will produce in the same Time, the Soil of both being of equal Goodness.

And a quick hedge, standing between two fields, one foot wide at the bottom and eighteen feet long, will, after fourteen years of growth, produce more of the same type of wood than eighteen square feet of a coppice will produce in the same period, assuming both soils are equally good.

This seems to be the same Case with our ho’d Rows; the Coppice, if it were to be cut in the first Years, would yield perhaps ten Times as much Wood, as the Hedge; but many of the Shoots of the Coppice constantly die every Year, for Want of sufficient Nourishment, until the Coppice is fit to be cut; and then its Product is much less than that of the Hedge, whose Pasture has not been over-stock’d to such a Degree as the Coppice-Pasture has been; and therefore brings its Crop of Wood to greater Perfection than the Coppice-Wood, which has Eighteen Times the Surface of Ground to stand on; The Hedge has the Benefit of Hoeing, as oft as the Land on either Side of it is till’d; but the Coppice, like the sown Corn, wants that Benefit.

This seems to be the same case with our managed rows; if the coppice were cut in the first few years, it might produce about ten times as much wood as the hedge. However, many of the coppice shoots die every year due to a lack of sufficient nourishment until the coppice is ready to be cut. By then, its yield is much less than that of the hedge, where the pasture hasn’t been overgrazed to the same extent as the coppice pasture has. As a result, the hedge produces a higher quality crop of wood, even though the coppice has eighteen times the area to grow in. The hedge benefits from being hoed whenever the land on either side of it is cultivated, but the coppice, like the sown corn, lacks that advantage.

In wide Intervals there is another Advantage of Hoeing, I mean Horse-hoeing (the other being more like Scratching and Scraping than Hoeing): There is room for many Hoeings[56], which must not come[68] very near the Bodies of some annual Plants, except whilst they are young; but in narrow Intervals, this cannot be avoided at every Hoeing: ’Tis true, that in the last Hoeings, even in the middle of a large Interval, many of the Roots may be broken off by the Hoe-plough, at some considerable Distance from the Bodies; but yet this is no Damage, for they send out a greater Number of Roots than before; as in Chap. I. appears.

In wide spaces, there’s another benefit of hoeing, specifically horse-hoeing (the other is more like scratching and scraping than actual hoeing): there’s room for multiple hoeings [56], which shouldn’t be too close to the bases of some annual plants, except when they’re young. However, in narrow spaces, this can’t be avoided with every hoeing. It’s true that in the final hoeings, even in the middle of a large space, many of the roots can get broken off by the hoe-plow, some distance away from the bases; but this isn’t a problem since they end up sending out more roots than before, as in Chap. I. shows.

[56]Many Hoeings; but if it should be asked how many, we may take Columella’s Rule in hoeing the Vines, viz. Numerus autem vertendi Soli (bidentibus) definiendus non est, cum quanto crebrior fit, plus prodesse fossionem conveniat. Sed impersarum Ratio modum postulat. Lib. 4. Cap. 5.

[56]Many hoeings; but if someone were to ask how many, we can refer to Columella's rule for hoeing the vines, namely, the number of times the soil needs to be turned (with the hoe) isn’t fixed, as the more often it’s done, the more benefit it brings. However, the nature of the task requires moderation. Lib. 4. Cap. 5.

Neither is it altogether the Number of Hoeings that determines the Degrees of Pulveration: For, Once well done, is Twice done; and the oftener the better, if the Expence be not excessive.

Neither is it just the number of times you hoe that determines how finely the soil is broken up. Once it's done well, it's done twice as well; and the more you do it, the better, as long as the cost isn't too high.

Poor Land, be it never so light, should have the most Hoeings; because Plants, receiving but very little Nourishment from the natural Pasture of such Land, require the more artificial Pasture to subsist on.

Poor land, no matter how light, should be hoed the most; because plants, getting very little nourishment from the natural pastures of such land, need more artificial nutrients to survive.

In wide Intervals, those Roots are broken off only where they are small; for tho’ they are capable of running out to more than the Length of the external Parts of a Plant; yet ’tis not necessary they should always do so; if they can have sufficient Food nearer to the Bodies[57] of the Plants.

In wide intervals, those roots are only broken off where they are small; even though they can extend beyond the length of the external parts of a plant, it’s not always necessary for them to do so if they can get enough nourishment closer to the bodies of the plants.

[57]All the Mould is never so near to the Bodies of Plants, as ’tis when the Row stands on a high Six-feet Ridge, when the middle of the Interval is left bare of Earth, at the last Hoeing; for then all the Mould may be but about a Foot, or a Foot and half, distant from the Body of each Plant of a Treble Row.

[57]The soil is never closer to the bodies of plants than when the row stands on a high six-foot ridge, and the middle of the space is left bare at the final hoeing; at that point, the soil may be only about a foot or a foot and a half away from the base of each plant in a triple row.

And these new, young, multiply’d Roots are fuller of Lacteal Mouths than the older ones; which makes it no Wonder, that Plants should thrive faster by having some of their Roots broken off by the Hoe; for as Roots do not enter every Pore of the Earth, but miss great Part of the Pasture, which is left unexhausted, so when new Roots strike out from the broken Parts of the old, they meet with that Pasture, which their Predecessors miss’d, besides that new Pasture which the Hoe raises for them; and those Roots which the Hoe pulls out without breaking,[69] and covers again, are turn’d into a fresh Pasture; some broken, and some unbroken: All together invigorate the Plants.

And these new, young, multiple roots have more nutrient-absorbing mouths than the older ones; which makes it no surprise that plants grow faster when some of their roots are cut off by the hoe. Roots don’t reach every pore of the soil and miss a lot of the nutrients that remain unused, so when new roots grow from the cut sections of the old ones, they tap into the nutrients that their predecessors overlooked, along with the new nutrients that the hoe has brought up for them. The roots that the hoe pulls out without breaking and then covers again turn into fresh nutrients; some are broken, and some are unbroken: all of this together strengthens the plants.

Besides, the Plants of sown Corn, being treble in Number to those of the drill’d, and of equal Strength and Bulk, whilst they are very young, must exhaust the Earth whilst it is open, thrice as much as the drill’d Plants do; and before the sown Plants grow large, the Pores of the Earth are shut against them, and against the Benefit of the Atmosphere; but for the drill’d, the Hoe gives constant Admission to that Benefit; and if the Hoe procures them (by dividing the Earth) Four Times the Pasture of the sown during their Lives, and the Roots devour but one half of that, then tho’ the ho’d Crop should be double to the sown, yet it might leave twice as much Pabulum for a succeeding Crop. ’Tis impossible to bring these Calculations to Mathematical Rules; but this is certain in Practice, that a sown Crop, succeeding a large undung’d ho’d Crop, is much better than a sown Crop, that succeeds a small dung’d sown Crop. And I have the Experience of poor, worn out Heath-ground, that, having produc’d Four successive good ho’d Crops of Potatoes (the last still best), is become tolerable good Ground.

Besides, the number of sown corn plants is three times that of drilled ones, and they are equally strong and robust while they are still young. They must deplete the soil’s nutrients while it is loose, three times more than the drilled plants do. Before the sown plants grow large, the soil’s pores close off to them and to the benefits of the atmosphere. In contrast, for the drilled plants, using a hoe allows constant access to those benefits. If the hoe enables them to reach four times the nutrients compared to the sown plants during their lifespan, and if their roots absorb only half of that, then even if the hoed plants yield double what the sown ones do, it still leaves twice as much nourishment for a subsequent crop. It’s impossible to apply these calculations with mathematical precision, but it is certainly practical that a sown crop following a large, undunged hoed crop is much better than a sown crop that follows a small, dunged sown crop. I have observed poor, exhausted heathland that, after producing four successive good hoed crops of potatoes (the last being the best), has become quite decent ground.

In a very poor Field were planted Potatoes, and, in the very worst Part of it, several Lands had them in Squares a Yard asunder; these were plowed four ways at different times: Some other Lands adjoining to them, of the very same Ground, were very well dung’d and till’d; but the Potatoes came irregularly, in some Places thicker, and in others thinner: These were not ho’d, and yet, at first coming up, looked blacker and stronger than those in Squares not dung’d, either that Year, or ever, that I know of; yet these Lands brought a good Crop of the largest Potatoes, and very few small ones amongst them; but in the dung’d Lands, for Want of Hoeing, the Potatoes[70] were not worth the taking up; which proves, that in those Plants that are planted so as to leave Spaces wide enough for Repetitions of Hoeing, that Instrument can raise more Nourishment to them, than a good Coat of Dung with common Tillage.

In a very poor field were planted potatoes, and in the worst part of it, several plots had them in squares a yard apart; these were plowed in four directions at different times. Some other plots nearby, on the same ground, were well fertilized and tilled; but the potatoes came up unevenly, some areas having thicker growth and others thinner. These were not hoed, yet when they first sprouted, they looked darker and stronger than those in the squares that weren’t fertilized, either that year or ever, as far as I know. Still, these plots produced a good crop of large potatoes, with very few smaller ones among them. However, in the fertilized plots, due to lack of hoeing, the potatoes weren’t worth digging up. This shows that plants grown with enough space for repeated hoeing can gain more nourishment from that tool than from a good layer of fertilizer with regular tillage.

Another Thing I have more particularly observ’d, viz. That the more successive Crops are planted in wide Intervals, and often ho’d, the better the Ground does maintain them; the last Crop is still the best, without Dung, or changing the Sort of Plant; and this is visible in Parts of the same Field, where some Part has a first, some other Part a second, the rest a third Crop growing all together at the same time; which seems to prove, that as the Earth is made by this Operation to dispense or distribute her Wealth to Plants, in Proportion to the Increase of her inner Superficies (which is the Pasture of Plants); so the Atmosphere, by the Riches in Rain and Dews, does annually reimburse her in Proportion to the same Superficies, with an Overplus for Interest: But if that Superficies be not increased to a competent Degree, and, by frequent Repetitions of Hoeing, kept increasing (which never happens in common Husbandry) this Advantage is lost; and, without often repeated Stercoration, every Year’s Crop grows worse; and it has been made evident by Trials, which admit of no Dispute, that Hoeing, without Dung or Fallow, can make such Plants as stand in wide Intervals, more vigorous in the same Ground, than both common Dunging and Fallowing can do without Hoeing.

Another thing I've noticed is that the more crops you plant in wide spaces and regularly hoe, the better the soil supports them. The last crop is always the best, even without fertilizer or changing the type of plant. You can see this in different parts of the same field, where some areas have the first crop, others have the second, and the rest have a third crop all growing at the same time. This seems to show that, through this process, the earth distributes its resources to plants in proportion to the increase of its surface area (which is what plants feed on). Similarly, the atmosphere replenishes the soil each year with rain and dew, providing extra for growth. But if that surface area doesn’t increase enough and isn’t enhanced through frequent hoeing (which doesn’t usually happen in typical farming), this benefit is lost. Without regular fertilization, each year's crop declines in quality. Trials have clearly shown that hoeing, even without fertilizer or leaving the land fallow, can make plants growing in wide spaces more robust than both regular fertilization and fallowing can achieve without hoeing.

This Sort of Hoeing has in Truth every Year the Effect of a Summer-fallow; tho’ it yearly produce a good Crop.

This kind of hoeing actually has the same effect as summer fallow every year, even though it produces a good crop each time.

This is one Reason of the different Effects Plants have upon the Soil; some are said to enrich it, others to burn it, i. e. to impoverish it; but I think it may be observed, that all those Plants, which are usually ho’d, are reckoned among the Enrichers;[71] and tho’ it be certain that some Species of Plants are, by the Heat of their Constitution, greater Devourers than those of another Species of equal Bulk; yet there is Reason to believe, that were the most cormorant Plant of them all to be commonly ho’d, it would gain[58] the Reputation of an Enricher or[72] Improver of the Soil; except it should be such, as might occasion Trouble, by filling it full of its shatter’d Seeds, which might do the Injury of Weeds to the next Crop; and except such Plants, which have a vast Bulk to be maintained a long Time, as Turnep-Seed[59].

This is one reason for the different effects that plants have on the soil; some are said to enrich it, while others are said to deplete it. However, it can be noted that all the plants that are commonly hoed are considered enrichers; and although it is certain that some plant species are more demanding due to their heat than others of equal size, there is reason to believe that if the most voracious plant of all were commonly hoed, it would gain a reputation as an enricher or a soil improver; unless it happened to be one that could cause problems by filling the soil with its broken seeds, which could harm the next crop, and unless it is such a plant that requires a vast amount of time to maintain, like turnip seed.[71] [72]

[58]But this must be intended of the deep Horse-hoeing; for Turneps that stand for Seed, are such Devourers, and feed so long on the Soil, that tho’ they are Hand-ho’d, such a shallow Operation doth not supply the usual Thickness of those Plants with Pasture sufficient to raise their Stems to half their natural Bulk; and they leave so little of that Pasture behind them, that the Soil is observ’d to be extremely impoverished for a Year or two, and sometimes three Years after them; but ’tis otherwise with my Horse-ho’d Turnep-Seed; for I never fail’d of a good Crop of Barley after it, sown on the Level in the following Spring, tho’ no Dung hath been used on the Land where the Turnep-Seed grew for many Years. And also my Barley Crops thus sown after two successive Crops of Turnep-Seed without a Fallow between them, are as good as those sown after a single Crop of it. For I have several Times made these Turnep-Seed Crops annual, that is, to have Two Crops of it in Two Years, which would in the old Way require three Years, because this Crop stands about a Year on the Ground, and is not ripe till Midsummer, which is too late to get that Land into a Tilth proper to plant another Seed Crop on it the same Summer; neither can the Soil be able to bear such another Crop immediately after being so much exhausted, and unplowed for a whole Year, except it be extraordinary rich, or much dunged: However, Two Crops of Turnep-Seed immediately succeeding one another, is what I never knew, or heard of, except my own that were Horse-ho’d; and of these the second Crop was as good as the first; their Stalks grew much higher than they usually do in the common Way; and tho’ the Number of Plants was much less, their Produce was so valuable, that the Vicar’s Agent declared, he made Twenty Shillings per Acre of his Tythe of a whole Field which he tythed in Kind. The Expence of these Crops was judg’d to be answered by the Fuel of the thresh’d Stalks. It must be noted, that the extraordinary Value of these Crops arose, not from a greater Quantity of Seed than some common Crops; but from their Quality, Experience having brought this Seed into great Esteem, on account of its being perfectly clean, and produced by large Turneps of a good Sort, and of a proper Shape; for those that are not well cultivated are very apt to degenerate, and then their Seed will produce Turneps of a small Size, and of a long rapy ill Shape.

[58]But this must refer to deep horse-hoeing; because turnips grown for seed are such heavy feeders that they draw nutrients from the soil for a long time. Even if they're hand-hoed, that shallow effort doesn't provide enough nourishment to allow these plants to grow to their full size. They leave so little nutrition behind that the soil is noticeably depleted for a year or two, and sometimes even three years afterward. However, that's not the case with my horse-hoed turnip seed; I've consistently had good barley crops planted on the same land in the following spring, even though no manure has been used on that soil for many years. Also, my barley crops sown after two consecutive turnip seed crops—without any fallow period in between—are just as good as those sown after only one crop. I've even managed to grow annual turnip seed crops, meaning two crops in two years, which in the old method would require three years, since this crop stays in the ground for about a year and isn't mature until midsummer, which is too late to prepare the land for another seed crop that summer. The soil also can't handle another crop right away after being so depleted and unplowed for a whole year, unless it’s extremely rich or well-fertilized. However, I’ve never heard of or seen two turnip seed crops succeeding each other, except for my own that were horse-hoed; and the second crop was just as good as the first. Their stalks grew much taller than usual, and even though there were fewer plants, their yield was so valuable that the Vicar’s Agent reported earning twenty shillings per acre from the entire field he collected tithe from in kind. The cost of these crops was considered offset by the fuel from the threshed stalks. It's worth noting that the exceptional value of these crops didn't come from a larger quantity of seed than typical crops, but from its quality; experience has shown this seed to be highly regarded because it is perfectly clean and produced from large, well-shaped turnips. Poorly cultivated turnips tend to degenerate and produce seeds that yield smaller, poorly shaped, long and stringy turnips.

[59]Turneps run to Seed, not till the second Summer.

[59]Turnips go to seed, but not until the second summer.

The wider the Intervals are, the more Earth may be divided; for the Row takes up the same Room with a wide, or a narrow Interval; and therefore with the wide, the unho’d Part bears a less Proportion to the ho’d Part than in the narrow.

The wider the intervals are, the more the Earth can be divided; because the row occupies the same space with either a wide or narrow interval; therefore, with the wide interval, the unheld part is a smaller proportion of the held part than it is with the narrow interval.

And ’tis no Purpose to hoe, where there is not Earth to be ho’d, or Room to hoe it in.

And it’s pointless to hoe where there’s no ground to hoe or space to do it.

There are many Ways of Hoeing with the Hoe-Plough; but there is not Room to turn Two deep clean Furrows in an Interval that is narrower than Four Feet Eight Inches; for if it want much of this Breadth, one, at least, of these Furrows, will reach, and fall upon the next Row, which will be very injurious to the Plants; except of grown St. Foin, and such other Plants, that can bear to have the Earth pull’d off them by Harrows.

There are many ways to hoe with the hoe-plow, but there isn't enough space to make two deep, clean furrows in an area that's narrower than four feet eight inches. If it’s much less than this width, at least one of those furrows will cross over and damage the next row, which can harm the plants—except for mature St. Foin and other plants that can handle having the soil pulled off them by harrows.

Thus much of Hoeing in general may suffice: And different Sorts of Plants requiring different Management; that may more properly be described in the Chapter, where particular Vegetables are treated of.

Thus much about hoeing in general should be enough: Different types of plants need different care, which can be better explained in the chapter that discusses specific vegetables.

It may not be amiss to add, that all Sorts of Land are not equally proper for Hoeing: I take it, that a dry friable Soil is the best. Intractable wet Clays, and such Hills as are too steep for Cattle to draw a Plough up and down them, are the most improper[60].

It might be worth mentioning that not all types of land are suitable for hoeing. I believe that dry, crumbly soil is the best. Difficult wet clays and hills that are too steep for cattle to pull a plow up and down are the least appropriate. [60]

[60]For by hoeing cross the Hill, the Furrow turn’d against the Declivity cannot be thrown up near enough to the Row above it; and the Furrow that is turn’d downwards will bury the Row below it.

[60]When you hoe across the hill, the furrow turned against the slope can’t be piled up close enough to the row above it; and the furrow that’s turned down will cover the row below it.

[73]

[73]

That ’tis not so beneficial to hoe in Common-fields, is not in Respect of the Soil, but to the old Principles, which have bound the Owners to unreasonable Customs of changing the Species of Corn, and make it necessary to fallow every Second, Third, or Fourth Year at farthest.

That it’s not so beneficial to farm in common fields isn't because of the soil, but due to the outdated practices that have tied the landowners to unreasonable customs of changing the type of grain, making it necessary to leave the land fallow every second, third, or fourth year at most.


CHAP. 7.
Of Weeds.

Plants, that come up in any Land, of a different Kind from the sown or planted Crop, are Weeds.

Plants, that grow in any land, different from the sown or planted crop, are weeds.

That there are in Nature any such things as inutiles Herbæ, the Botanists deny; and justly too, according to their Meaning.

That there are in Nature any things like inutiles Herbæ, the botanists deny; and rightly so, according to their meaning.

But the Farmer, who expects to make Profit of his Land from what he sows or plants in it, finds not only Herbæ inutiles, but also noxiæ, unprofitable and hurtful Weeds; which come like Muscæ, or uninvited Guests, that always hurt, and often spoil his Crop, by devouring what he has, by his Labour in Dunging and Tilling, provided for its Sustenance.

But the farmer, who hopes to profit from the land by sowing or planting, discovers not only useless herbs but also harmful weeds that are unproductive and detrimental. These weeds come like pesky flies or uninvited guests, always causing damage and often ruining his crops by consuming what he's carefully nurtured through hard work and preparation in the soil.

All Weeds, as such, are pernicious; but some much more than others; some do more Injury, and are more easily destroy’d; some do less Injury, and are harder to kill; others there are, which have both these bad Qualities. The hardest to kill are such as will grow and propagate by their Seed, and also by every Piece of their Roots, as Couch-grass, Coltsfoot, Melilot, Fern, and such-like. Some are hurtful only by robbing legitimate (or sown) Plants of their Nourishment, as all Weeds do; others both lessen a legitimate Crop by robbing it, and also spoil that Crop, which escapes their Rapine, when they infect[74] it with their nauseous Scent and Relish, as Melilot, wild Garlick, &c.

All weeds are harmful, but some are worse than others; some cause more damage and are easier to eliminate, while others inflict less damage and are harder to get rid of. Then there are those that have both of these negative qualities. The hardest to eliminate are those that grow and spread through both their seeds and every piece of their roots, like couch grass, coltsfoot, melilot, fern, and similar types. Some are harmful only because they steal nutrients from cultivated plants, as all weeds do; others both reduce a legitimate crop by taking its nutrients and also ruin that crop—even the parts that survive their grasp—by infecting it with their unpleasant smell and taste, like melilot, wild garlic, &c.

Weeds starve the sown Plants, by robbing them of their Provision of Food[61], not of their Room (as some Authors vainly imagine); which will appear by the following Experiment.

Weeds take away the nutrients that the planted crops need, not by taking up space (as some writers mistakenly believe); this will be shown by the following experiment.

[61]A Tree of any Sort will spoil Corn all round it, in a large Circle; half an Acre of Turneps has been spoil’d by one: Hereby ’tis plain, that Trees rob as Weeds; because ’tis not by their Shadow, there being as much Damage done by them on the South-Side, where their Shadow never comes, as on their North-Side: Nor can it be by their dropping; for ’tis the same on the Side where a Tree has no Boughs to drop over the Plants, when they are also at a very great Distance from all Parts of the Tree, except its Roots.

[61]A tree of any kind will damage crops all around it in a large circle; half an acre of turnips has been ruined by one. This shows that trees take nutrients like weeds do, since the damage is not caused by their shade—there's just as much harm on the south side, where their shade never reaches, as there is on the north side. Nor can it be from their dropping leaves, because the same damage occurs on the side of the tree where there are no branches to drop anything on the plants, even when those plants are at a considerable distance from the tree except for its roots.

Let three Beds of the same Soil, equal, and equally prepared, be sown with the same Sort of Corn. Let the first of these Beds be kept clean from Weeds: In the Second, let a Quantity of Weeds grow along with the Corn; and in the Third, stick up a Quantity of dead Sticks, greater in Bulk than the Weeds.

Let three equal plots of soil, all prepared the same way, be planted with the same type of corn. Keep the first plot free of weeds. In the second plot, allow some weeds to grow along with the corn. In the third plot, stick in some dead branches that are larger than the weeds.

It will be found, that the Produce of the Corn in the First will not exceed that of the Third Bed; but in the Second, where the Weeds are, the Corn will be diminish’d in Proportion to the Quantity of Weeds amongst it.

It will be found that the yield of corn in the First Bed will not be greater than that of the Third Bed; however, in the Second Bed, where the weeds are present, the corn will be reduced in proportion to the amount of weeds mixed in with it.

The Sticks, having done no Injury to the Corn, shew there was room enough in the Bed for Company to lodge, would they forbear to eat; or else (like Travellers in Spain) bring their Provision with them to their Inn, or (which would be the same thing) if Weeds could find there some Dish so disagreeable to the Palate of the Corn, and agreeable to their own, that they might feed on it without robbing; and then they would be as innocent as the Sticks, which take up the same Room with the Weeds.

The sticks, having harmed the corn at all, show that there's enough space in the bed for guests to stay as long as they don’t eat; or, like travelers in Spain, bring their own supplies to the inn, or (which is basically the same) if weeds could find some dish that the corn dislikes but they enjoy, so they could feed on it without stealing; then they would be as innocent as the sticks, which occupy the same space as the weeds.

The Quantity of Nourishment Weeds rob the Corn of, is not in Proportion only to their Number and Bulk, but to the Degrees of Heat in their Constitution;[75] as appears by the Instance of Charlock and Turneps, mention’d in the Chapter Of Change of Species.

The amount of nutrients that weeds take from corn isn’t just related to how many there are or how big they are, but also to how hot they are internally;[75] as shown by the example of charlock and turnips, mentioned in Chapter Of Change of Species.

’Tis needless to go about to compute the Value of the Damage Weeds do, since all experienc’d Husbandmen know it to be very great, and would unanimously agree to extirpate their whole Race as intirely, as in England they have done the Wolves, tho’ much more innocent, and less rapacious than Weeds[62].

It's unnecessary to calculate the damage that weeds cause, since all experienced farmers know it's very significant, and they would all agree to eliminate them completely, just like in England they have done with wolves, even though weeds are much more innocent and less greedy than wolves.[62].

[62]If we consider the Crops they utterly destroy, and those they extremely diminish; and that very few Crops escape without receiving Injury from them; it may be a Question, whether the Mischief Weeds do to our Corn, is not as great as the Value of the Rent of all the Arable Lands in England.

[62]If we think about the crops they completely ruin and those they significantly reduce, and that very few crops come through without being harmed by them, it raises the question of whether the damage weeds cause to our grain is not as considerable as the total value of the rent from all the arable lands in England.

But alas! they find it impossible to be done, or even to be hoped for, by the common Husbandry; and the Reasons I take to be these.

But unfortunately, they find it impossible to accomplish, or even to hope for, through regular farming practices; and I believe the reasons are these.

The Seeds of most Sorts of Weeds are so hardy, as to lie sound and uncorrupt for many Years[63], or perhaps Ages in the Earth; and are not kill’d until they begin to grow or sprout, which very few of them do, unless the Land be plow’d; and then enough of them will ripen amongst the sown Crop, to propagate and continue their Species, by shedding their Off-spring in the Ground (for ’tis observ’d they are generally ripe before the Corn); and the Seeds of these do the same in the next sown Crop; and thus perpetuate their savage, wicked[64] Brood, from Generation to Generation.

The seeds of most types of weeds are so tough that they can remain intact and unspoiled in the ground for many years, or even ages, and they don’t get destroyed until they start to grow or sprout. Very few of them will sprout unless the land is plowed, and then a good number of them will mature among the planted crops, allowing them to spread and continue their species by dropping their seeds in the soil (it’s noted that they usually mature before the corn). The seeds from these weeds do the same in the next planted crop, thus perpetuating their wild, harmful lineage from generation to generation.

[63]The Seeds of Lethean Poppy (call’d Red-weed) have lain dormant 24 Years (the Land being, during that time, in St. Foin) and then at first Plowing they came up very thick; this I have seen, and so will many other Sorts of Weeds, when the Ground has lain untill’d for an Age.

[63]The seeds of Lethean Poppy (called Red-weed) have been dormant for 24 years (the land was, during that time, in St. Foin), and when it was plowed for the first time, they came up very thick. I've seen this happen, and many other types of weeds do the same when the ground has been uncultivated for a long time.

[64]The French call them, les Herbes Sauvages, & les mechantes Herbes.

[64]The French refer to them as les Herbes Sauvages, & les mechantes Herbes.

Besides, their Seeds never all come up in one Year, unless the Land be very often plow’d; for they must have their exact Depth, and Degrees of Moisture and[76] Heat, to make them grow; and such as have not these, will lie in the Ground, and retain their vegetative Virtue for Ages; and the common usual Plowings, not being sufficient to make them all, or the greatest Part, grow, almost every Crop that ripens increases the Stock of Seed, until it make a considerable Part of the Staple of such Land as is sown without good Tillage and Fallowing.

Besides, their seeds don’t all sprout in one year unless the land is plowed frequently. They need the right depth, moisture, and heat to grow. Those that don’t have these conditions can sit in the ground and stay viable for ages. The usual plowing isn't enough to get all or most of them to grow, so almost every crop that matures adds to the seed stock, turning it into a significant part of the staple from land that’s sown without proper tillage and fallowing.[76]

The best Defence against these Enemies, which the Farmer has hitherto found, is to endeavour their Destruction by a good Summer-fallow: This indeed, if the Weather be propitious, does make Havock of them; but still some will escape one Year’s Prosecution. Either by being sometimes situate so high, that the Sun’s Heat dries them, or sometimes lying so deep, that it cannot reach them; either way their Germination, which would have proved their Death, is prevented.

The best way for farmers to defend against these pests has been to try to eliminate them with a good summer fallow. This method, if the weather cooperates, can really take a toll on them; however, some will still survive a year’s efforts. They might be positioned so high that the sun dries them out, or they could be buried so deep that it can’t reach them; in either case, the germination that would have killed them is stopped.

Another Faculty secures abundance of them, and that is, their being able to endure the Heat and Moisture of one Year without growing; as[65] wild Oats, and innumerable other Sorts of Weeds, will do; for gather these when ripe, sow them in the richest Bed, water them, and do all that is possible to make them grow the First Year, it will be vain Labour; they will resist all Enticements till the Second; that is, if you gather them in Autumn, you cannot force them to grow until the next Spring come Twelve-month; and many of them will remain dormant even to the next Year alter that, and some of them longer.

Another way to thrive is their ability to withstand the heat and moisture of one year without sprouting. For example, wild oats and countless other types of weeds do this. If you gather them when they’re ripe, plant them in the richest soil, water them, and do everything possible to make them grow in the first year, it will be a waste of effort. They will resist all attempts until the following year. This means if you collect them in the autumn, you won’t be able to force them to grow until the next spring comes around; and many of them will remain dormant even until the year after that, with some staying inactive even longer.

[65]I have not try’d wild Oats by sowing them in a Bed myself, but have been so informed by others; and my own Experience hath frequently shewn me, that they will come up, after lying many Years in the Ground; and that very few Sorts of Weeds will come all up the first Year, as Corn doth: If they did, the Tillage of one Year’s Summer-fallow might extirpate them.

[65]I haven't tried sowing wild oats in a bed myself, but others have told me about it; and my own experience has often shown me that they can sprout even after lying dormant in the ground for many years. Also, very few types of weeds grow all at once in the first year like corn does. If they did, a single year of summer fallow would be enough to get rid of them.

By this Means, One Year’s Summer-Fallow can have no Effect upon them, but to prepare the Soil[77] for their more vigorous Growth and plentiful Increase the next Year after; and very rarely will the Farmer fallow his Land Two Years successively; and often the Dung, which is made of the Straw of sown Corn, being full of the Seeds of Weeds, when spread on the Fallows, incumbers the Soil with another Stock of Weeds, as ample as that the Fallowing has destroy’d; and tho’ perhaps many of these may not grow the next Year, they will be sure to come up afterwards.

By this process, one year of summer fallow doesn't have any impact on them, except to prepare the soil[77] for their stronger growth and greater yield the following year; and it’s very rare for a farmer to let his land lie fallow for two consecutive years. Additionally, the manure made from the straw of sown corn is often full of weed seeds, and when it’s spread on fallow land, it introduces another batch of weeds just as plentiful as those that the fallowing has eliminated; and while many of these might not grow the next year, they will definitely sprout up later.

The other old Remedy is what often proves worse than the Disease; that is, what they call Weeding among sown Corn; for if by the Hook or Hand they cut some Sorts (as Thistles) while they are young, they will sprout up again, like Hydras, with more Heads than before; and if they are cut when full-grown, after they have done almost their utmost in robbing the Crop, ’tis like shutting the Stable-Door after the Steed is stolen.

The other old solution often turns out to be worse than the problem itself; that is, what they refer to as weeding among crops. If they pull out certain types (like thistles) while they're still young, they'll just grow back, like Hydras, with even more heads than before. And if they’re pulled out when they’re fully grown, after they’ve already done almost all the damage to the crop, it’s like closing the stable door after the horse has been stolen.

Hand-weeders often do more Harm to the Corn with their Feet, than they do Good by cutting or pulling out the Weeds with their Hands; and yet I have known this Operation sometimes cost the Farmer Twelve Shillings an Acre; besides the Damage done by treading down his Wheat; and, after all, a sufficient Quantity of them have escaped, to make a too plentiful Increase in the next Crop of Corn.

Hand-weeders often do more damage to the corn with their feet than they do good by cutting or pulling out the weeds with their hands. I've seen this process sometimes cost the farmer twelve shillings an acre, not to mention the damage done by trampling down the wheat. And in the end, a significant number of weeds still escape, leading to a much larger increase in the next crop of corn.

The new Hoeing-Husbandry in Time will probably make such an utter Riddance[66] of all Sorts of Weeds[67], except such as come in the Air,[78] that[68] as long as this Management is properly continued, there is no Danger to be apprehended from them; which is enough to confute the old Error[79] of equivocal Generation, had it not been already sufficiently exploded, ever since that Demonstration of Malpighius’s Experiment. For if Weeds were brought forth without their proper Seeds, the Hoeing could not hinder their Production, where the Soil was inclined naturally to produce them. The Belief of that blind Doctrine might probably be one of the Causes that made the Antients despair of finding so great Success in Hoeing, as now appears; or else, if they had had true Principles, they might perhaps have invented and improved that Husbandry, and the Instruments necessary to put it in Practice.

The new hoeing method is likely to completely eliminate all types of weeds, except for those that come from the air. As long as this technique is properly maintained, there’s no risk from them; this is enough to disprove the old misconception about spontaneous generation, even if it has already been thoroughly debunked since Malpighius’s experiments. If weeds could grow without their proper seeds, then hoeing wouldn’t stop them from appearing where the soil naturally tends to produce them. The belief in that misguided doctrine may have been one reason the ancients struggled to achieve the success in hoeing that we now see; or if they had better principles, they might have been able to invent and enhance that farming method and the tools needed to implement it.

[66]A very pernicious, large, perennial Weed, like Burrage, with a blue Flower, infested a Piece of Land, for Time out of Mind: Hoeing has destroyed it utterly; not one of the Species has been seen in the Field these Seven Years, tho’ constantly till’d and ho’d.

[66]A very harmful, large, perennial weed, similar to Borrage, with a blue flower, has plagued a piece of land for as long as anyone can remember: Hoeing has completely eradicated it; not one of its types has been seen in the field for the past seven years, even though it has been regularly tilled and hoed.

[67]I have now a Piece of Wheat drill’d early the last Autumn upon an Hill, fallowed and well pulveriz’d: Part of it was drill’d with Wheat in double Rows upon the Level Nine Years ago, Horse-ho’d, and the Partitions thoroughly Hand-ho’d to cleanse out the Poppies, of which the Land was very full; the other Part of this Piece was never drilled till this Year: The whole Piece hath not been before this Winter Horse-ho’d. Now the Partitions of the Part that was never any Way Ho’d, are so stock’d with Poppies matted together, that unless they are taken out early in the Spring, they will totally devour the Rows of Wheat; but in the other Part that was ho’d so long since, there are now very few Poppies to be seen. Both these Parts have had several sown Crops of Barley together since, and have lain with St. Foin these last Five or Six Years.

[67]I have a piece of wheat planted early last autumn on a hill, which was fallowed and well-cultivated: part of it was planted with wheat in double rows on the level nine years ago, horse-weeded, and the sections were thoroughly hand-weeded to remove the poppies, which were very abundant in the land; the other part of this piece wasn’t planted until this year: the whole piece hasn’t been horse-weeded before this winter. Now the sections of the part that was never weeded are so overrun with tangled poppies that unless they are cleared out early in the spring, they will completely take over the rows of wheat; however, in the other part that was weeded so long ago, there are very few poppies to be seen now. Both parts have had several crops of barley sown in between since then, and have been lying fallow with St. Foin for the last five or six years.

[68]And except also such Weeds, whose Seed is carried by Birds, which is the most common Manner of transporting the Seeds of Vegetables from Field to Field, against the Content of the Owner: For Birds, whether great or small, do not care to eat their Prey where they take it, but generally chuse some open Place for that Purpose. ’Tis, I am persuaded, by this Means chiefly, that a Vineyard or Field, made ever so clean from Grass, will, in lying untilled a few Years, be replenished with a Turf of that neighbouring Species of Grass, which best suits the Heat and Moisture of the Soil: Yet there are some Species of Seeds that Birds (at least such as frequent this Place) do not affect; else the Burrage-weed (mentioned in p. 77.) would have appeared again in my Field in some of the many Years since the Hoeing has extirpated it there; for it grows plentifully in the unplowed Way adjoining thereto.

[68]And except for those Weeds whose Seeds are carried by Birds, which is the most common way of moving the Seeds of Plants from Field to Field, against the Owner's wishes: Because Birds, whether big or small, don’t usually eat their food where they find it but tend to choose some open area for that purpose. I truly believe that this is mainly how a Vineyard or Field, even if completely cleared of Grass, will become covered with a layer of Grass that is best suited to the Heat and Moisture of the Soil after lying untended for a few years. However, there are some types of Seeds that Birds (at least the ones that stay around here) do not like; otherwise, the Burrage-weed (mentioned in p. 77.) would have shown up again in my Field at some point during the many years since it was cleared out, since it grows abundantly in the nearby unplowed area.

The Seeds of some Weeds may be suspected to come in the Air; as the Seed of the Grass that grew in the Cheapside, in the Time of the Plague; but it might come from Seeds in the Dirt, brought thither by the Feet of People and Cattle, and by the Wheels of Coaches, Carts carrying Hay: Or otherwise continual Treading might keep it from Growing; and when the Treading ceased, ’tis no Wonder the Seeds should furnish the Streets with Grass.

The seeds of some weeds might be believed to come from the air, like the grass seeds that sprouted in Cheapside during the plague. However, they could also come from seeds in the dirt, brought there by the feet of people and animals, as well as by the wheels of coaches and carts carrying hay. Alternatively, constant trampling could have prevented growth, and when the trampling stopped, it's not surprising that the seeds started to fill the streets with grass.

And I have observ’d on the Floors, two Stories high, of a lone, ruinous, uninhabited House, being long uncover’d, a sort of Herb growing very thick; I think it was Pimpernel, and believe that its Seeds did not come thither in the Air; but in the Sand which was mix’d with the Mortar that had fallen from the Cielings; and ’tis like there were few Seeds at first: Yet, these, ripening for several Years, shed their Seeds annually, until the Floors became all over very thick planted: Besides, Hay-seeds and Pimpernel are too heavy to be carry’d far by the Air.

And I noticed on the floors, two stories high, of a lonely, crumbling, unoccupied house, which had long been exposed, a kind of herb growing very thick; I think it was Pimpernel, and I believe that its seeds didn’t come through the air, but in the sand mixed with the mortar that had fallen from the ceilings; and it seems like there were only a few seeds at first. Yet, these, maturing for several years, shed their seeds annually, until the floors became fully covered. Besides, hay seeds and Pimpernel are too heavy to be carried far by the air.


CHAP. 8.
Of Turnips.

As far as I can be inform’d, ’tis but of late Years that Turneps have been introduc’d as an Improvement in the Field.

As far as I know, it’s only recently that turnips have been introduced as an improvement in farming.

All Sorts of Land, when made fine by Tillage, or by Manure and Tillage, will serve to produce Turneps, but not equally; for chalky Land is generally too dry (a Turnep being a thirsty Plant); and they are so long in such dry poor Land before they get into rough Leaf, that the Fly is very apt to destroy them there; yet I have known them succeed on such Land, tho’ rarely.

All kinds of land, when well-prepared through farming or fertilization and farming, can grow turnips, but not all equally. Chalky soil is usually too dry since turnips need plenty of water. They take a long time in such dry and poor soil to develop their leaves, making them vulnerable to pests. However, I have seen them succeed in such conditions, though it's quite rare.

Sand and Gravel are the most proper Soil for Turneps, because that is most easily pulveriz’d, and its Warmth causeth the Turneps to grow faster, and so they get the sooner out of the Danger of the Fly; and such a Soil, when well-till’d, and Horse-ho’d, never wants a sufficient Moisture, even in the driest Weather; and the Turneps being drill’d will come up without Rain, and prosper very well with the sole[80] Moisture of the Dews, which are admitted as deep as the Pulveration reacheth; and if that be to Five or six Inches, the hottest Sun cannot exhale the Dews thence in the Climate of England: I have known Turneps thrive well in a very dry Summer by repeated Horse-hoeings, both in Sand and in Land which is neither sandy nor gravelly.

Sand and gravel are the best soil for turnips because they break down easily, and their warmth helps turnips grow faster, protecting them from pests sooner. This type of soil, when well-tended and hoed with a horse, always retains enough moisture, even in the driest weather. Turnips planted in rows will sprout without rain and do quite well with just the moisture from dew, which can penetrate as deep as the tilled soil allows. If that depth is five or six inches, the hottest sun can't evaporate the dew in the climate of England. I’ve seen turnips thrive in very dry summers through repeated hoeing, both in sandy soil and in soil that isn’t sandy or gravelly.

When I sow’d Turneps by Hand, and ho’d them with a Hand-hoe, the Expence was great, and the Operation not half perform’d, by the Deceitfulness of the Hoers, who left half the Land unho’d, and cover’d it with the Earth from the Part they did hoe, and then the Grass and Weeds grew the faster: Besides, in this Manner a great Quantity of Land could not be managed in the proper Season.

When I planted turnips by hand and weeded them with a hand hoe, it was expensive, and the job wasn't even half done because the workers were dishonest. They left half the field unhoed and just covered it with the dirt from the part they did hoe, which made the grass and weeds grow even faster. Plus, this way, we couldn't manage a large amount of land during the right season.

When I drill’d upon the Level[69], at Three Feet Intervals, a Trial was made between those Turneps and a Field of the next Neighbour’s, sown at the same Time, whereof the Hand-hoeing cost Ten Shillings per Acre, and had not quite half the Crop of the drill’d, both being measur’d by the Bushel, on Purpose to find the Difference[70].

When I drilled in the field at three-foot intervals, a test was conducted comparing those turnips with a neighboring field that was planted at the same time, where hand-hoeing cost ten shillings per acre and produced less than half the yield of the drilled turnips, with both being measured by the bushel specifically to determine the difference.

[69]’Tis impossible to hoe-plow them so well when planted upon the Level, as when they are planted upon Ridges; for if we plow deep near the Row, the Earth will come over on the Left-Side of the Plough, and bury the younger Turneps; but when they stand on Ridges, the Earth will almost all fall down on the Right Side into the Furrow in the Middle of the Interval.

[69]It's impossible to hoe and plow them as effectively when planted flat compared to when they're planted on ridges; because if we plow deep near the row, the soil will shift onto the left side of the plow and cover the younger turnips. But when they're on ridges, most of the soil will fall to the right side into the furrow in the middle of the space in between.

[70]And I have since found, that Turneps on the same Land, planted on Ridges, with Six-feet Intervals, make a Crop double to those that are planted on the Level, or even on Ridges with Three-feet Intervals.

[70]And I have since discovered that when turnips are planted on the same land in ridges, with six-foot spacing, they yield double the amount compared to those planted on flat ground or even on ridges with three-foot spacing.

In the new Method they are more certain to come up quickly; because in every Row, half the Seed is planted about Four Inches deep[71]; and the other Half is planted exactly over that, at the Depth of half an Inch, falling in after the Earth has cover’d[81] the first Half: Thus planted, let the Weather be never so dry, the deepest Seed will come up; but if it raineth (immediately after planting), the Shallow will come up first: We also make it come up at Four[72] Times, by mixing our Seed, half new and half old (the new coming up a Day quicker than the old): These four Comings up give it so many Chances for escaping the Fly, it being often seen, that the Seed sown over Night will be destroy’d by the Fly, when that sown the next Morning will escape, and vice versa[73]; or you may hoe-plow them, when you see the Fly is like to devour them; this will bury the greatest Part of those Enemies; or else you may drill in another Row, without new-plowing the Land.

In the new method, the seeds are more likely to germinate quickly because in every row, half of the seeds are planted about four inches deep, and the other half is planted directly above that at a half-inch depth, falling in after the soil has covered the first half. With this planting technique, no matter how dry the weather is, the deeper seeds will sprout. However, if it rains right after planting, the shallow seeds will come up first. We also ensure they come up at four different times by mixing our seeds, half new and half old (the new ones sprout a day quicker than the old). These four sprouting times give them several chances to evade pests since it's often observed that seeds sown overnight get destroyed by pests, while those sown the next morning will survive, and vice versa; or you can hoe-plow them when you notice the pests are likely to attack; this will bury most of those enemies. Alternatively, you can drill another row without re-plowing the land.

[71]Turnep seed will come up from a greater Depth than most other Sorts of Seeds.

[71]Turnep seeds will grow from a greater depth than most other types of seeds.

[72]I have seen drill’d Turnep-seed come up daily for a Fortnight together, when it has not been mixt thus, the old with the new.

[72]I've watched drilled turnip seeds sprout every day for two weeks when they weren’t mixed like this, the old with the new.

[73]I have had the first Turneps that came up all destroy’d by the Fly; and about a Fortnight afterwards more have come up, and been ho’d time enough, and made a good Crop.

[73]I've had the first turnips that sprouted totally ruined by the fly; and about two weeks later, more came up, were hoed in time, and produced a good harvest.

This Method has also another Advantage of escaping the Fly, the most certain of any other, and infallible, if the Land be made fine, as it ought to be: This is to roll it with a heavy Roller across the Ridges, after ’tis drill’d, which closing up the Cavities of the Earth, prevents the Fly’s Entrance and Exit, to lay the Eggs, hatch, or bring forth the young ones to prey upon the Turneps; which they might intirely devour, if the Fly came before they had more than the first two Leaves, which, being form’d of the very Seed itself, are very sweet; but the next Leaves are rough and bitter, which the Fly does not love: I have always found the Rolling disappoint the Fly; but very often it disappoints the Owner also, who sows at Random; for it makes the Ground so hard, that the Turneps cannot thrive, but look yellow, dwindle, and grow to no Perfection, unless they have a good Hoeing soon after the rough Leaves appear; for[82] when they stand long without it, they will be so poor and stinted, that the Hand-hoe does not go deep enough to recover them; and ’tis seldom that these rolled Turneps can be Hand-ho’d at the critical Time, because the Earth is then become so hard, that the Hoe cannot enter it without great Difficulty, unless it be very moist; and very often the Rain does not come to soak it, until it be too late; but the drill’d Turneps being in single Rows with Six-feet Intervals, may be roll’d without Danger: For be the Ground ever so hard, the Hand-hoe will easily single them out, at the Price of Six-pence per Acre, or less (if not in Harvest); and the Horse-hoe will, in those wide Intervals, plow at any Time, wet or dry; and, tho’ the Turneps should have been neglected till stinted, will go deep enough to recover them to a flourishing Condition.

This method also has the advantage of keeping away the fly, which is the most reliable pest control. If the land is properly prepared, it works every time. You should roll it with a heavy roller across the ridges after it's been drilled. This closes up the gaps in the soil, preventing the fly from laying eggs and hatching its young to feed on the turnips. If the fly gets to them before they develop more than the first two leaves—made from the seed itself, which are really sweet—it could wipe them out. The subsequent leaves are rough and bitter, which the fly doesn't like. I've always found that rolling keeps the fly away. However, it often disappoints the owner who plants randomly. It hardens the ground too much, causing the turnips to struggle, looking yellow and stunted, and failing to thrive unless they get a good hoeing shortly after the rough leaves appear. If they stay in that state for too long without hoeing, they can become so weak that a hand hoe won't go deep enough to save them. It’s rare that these rolled turnips can be hand-hoed at the crucial time since, by then, the ground is so hard that the hoe can't penetrate it without a lot of effort, unless it's very wet. Unfortunately, the rain often doesn’t soak it until it’s too late. On the other hand, drilled turnips, planted in single rows with six-foot gaps, can be rolled without risk. No matter how hard the ground is, a hand hoe can easily pick them out for six pence an acre or less (except during harvest time), and the horse hoe can work in those wide spaces at any time, wet or dry. Even if the turnips are neglected and stunted, it can go deep enough to help restore them to a healthy state.

Drill’d Turneps, by being no-where but in the Rows[74], may be more easily seen than those which come up at Random; and may therefore be sooner[75][83] singled out by the Hand-hoe; which is another Advantage; because the sooner they are so set out, the better they will thrive[76].

Drilled turnips, because they are planted in rows, are easier to spot than those that grow randomly. This means they can be picked out more quickly using a hand hoe, which is another benefit. The sooner they are singled out, the better they will grow.

[74]Drill’d Turneps coming all up nearly in a Mathematical Line, ’tis very nearly that a Charlock, or other like Weed, comes up in the same Line amongst them, unless it be drill’d in with the Turnep-seed, of which Weeds our Horse-ho’d Seed never has any; there being no Charlock in the Rows, nor any Turnep in the Intervals: We know, that whatever comes up in the Interval is not a Turnep, though so like to it, that, at first coming up, if promiscuously, it cannot easily be distinguished by the Eye, until after the Turneps, &c. attain the rough Leaf; and even then, before they are of a considerable Bigness, they are so hard to be distinguished by those People, who are not well experienced, that a Company of Hand-hoers cut out the Turneps by Mistake, and left the Charlock for a Crop of a large Field of sown Turneps. Such a Misfortune can never happen to drill’d Turneps, unless wilfully done, be they set out ever so young.

[74]Drilled turnips are coming up nearly in a mathematical line. It's almost certain that a charlock or similar weed comes up in the same line among them, unless it’s drilled in with the turnip seeds. Our horse-hoed seeds never have any weeds; there are no charlocks in the rows, nor any turnips in the spaces in between. We know that whatever comes up in the space isn’t a turnip, even if it looks a lot like one. At first, when they sprout randomly, it’s hard to tell them apart just by looking until the turnips, &c., develop their rough leaves. Even then, before they’re large enough to be easily recognized, it can be really tricky for those who aren't experienced. A group of hand-hoers might mistakenly pull out the turnips and leave the charlocks when dealing with a big field of sown turnips. Such a mistake can never happen with drilled turnips unless it’s done on purpose, no matter how young they are.

[75]The sooner they are made single, the better; but yet, when they are not very thick, they may stand till we have the best Convenience of singling them without much Damage; but, when they come up extraordinary thick, ’twill be much more difficult to make them single, if they are neglected at their very first coming into rough Leaf.

[75]The sooner they are separated, the better; however, if they aren't too dense, we can wait until it's more convenient to separate them without causing too much damage. But if they grow too dense, it will be much harder to separate them if we neglect to do so right when they first start to grow leaves.

[76]Because such young Turneps will enjoy the more of the Pasture made by the Plowing, and by that little Pulveration of the Hand-hoe, without being robb’d of any Pasture by their own supernumerary Plants.

[76]Because young Turnips will benefit more from the pasture created by the plowing and by the slight tilling with the hand hoe, without losing any pasture to their extra plants.

Three or Four Ounces of Seed is the usual Quantity to drill; but, at random, Three or Four Pounds are commonly sown, which, coming thick all over the Ground, must exhaust the Land more than the other, especially since the sown must stand longer, before the Hoers can see to set them out.

Three or four ounces of seed is the usual amount to sow; however, in practice, three or four pounds are often used, which results in a dense coverage across the ground. This heavier sowing is likely to deplete the soil more than the lighter method, particularly since the seedlings need to grow longer before the workers can transplant them.

The Six-feet Ridges, whereon Turneps are drill’d in single Rows, may be left higher than for double-row’d Crops; because there will be more Earth in the Intervals, as the single Row takes up less.

The Six-foot Ridges, where Turnips are planted in single Rows, can be left higher than for double-rowed Crops; because there will be more Soil in the Spaces, as the single Row takes up less.

There is no prefix’d Time for planting Turneps, because that must be according to the Richness of the Land; for some Land will bring them as forward, and make them as good, when planted the beginning of August, as other Land will, when planted in May; but the most general Time is, a little before, and a little after Midsummer.

There isn’t a set time for planting turnips, as it depends on how rich the soil is. Some soil will yield good turnips when planted at the beginning of August, just as other soil will do when planted in May; however, the most common times for planting are slightly before and slightly after Midsummer.

Between these Rows of Turneps[77], I have planted Wheat in this Manner; viz. About Michaelmas, the[84] Turneps being full grown, I plow’d a Ridge in the Middle of each of their Intervals, taking most of the[85] Earth from the Turneps, leaving only just enough to keep them alive; and on this Ridge drill’d my Crop of Wheat[78], and towards the Spring pull’d up my Turneps, and carried them off for Cattle.

Between these rows of turnips[77], I planted wheat like this: Around Michaelmas, when the[84] turnips were fully grown, I plowed a ridge in the middle of each space between them, taking most of the[85] soil from the turnips, leaving just enough to keep them alive. Then I drilled my crop of wheat[78] on this ridge, and in the spring, I pulled up my turnips and took them away for the cattle.

[77]As I have formerly drilled Wheat between Rows of Turneps, so I have since had the Experience of drilling Turneps between Rows of Barley and Rows of Oats: I have had them in the Intervals between Six-feet Ridges, and between Four-feet Ridges, and between those of several intermediate Distances; but which of them all is the best, I leave at present undetermined. I shall only add, that the poorer the Land is, the wider the Intervals ought to be; and that, in the narrow, ’tis convenient at the Hoeing, to leave more Earth on that Side of each Interval whereon the Turneps are to be drill’d; and this is done by going round several Intervals with the Hoe-Plough, without going forwards and backwards in each immediately: But in the wide Intervals the Earth may be equal on both Sides of them.

[77]Just as I previously planted wheat between rows of turnips, I've also tried planting turnips between rows of barley and oats. I've placed them in the gaps between six-foot ridges, four-foot ridges, and several other distances in between. However, I haven't decided yet which method works best. I will just mention that the poorer the soil, the wider the gaps should be, and when the gaps are narrow, it's useful to leave more soil on the side where the turnips will be planted. This can be achieved by going around several gaps with the hoe-plow instead of moving back and forth in each one immediately. In wider gaps, the soil can be evenly distributed on both sides.

I will propose another Method of Drilling, which may be very advantageous to those who sow their Barley upon the Level, and sow Turnep-seed amongst it, at Random, as they do Clover; which is, of late, a common Practice in some Places. The Barley keeps the Turneps under it, and stints them so much, that they are useful in the Winter or Spring, chiefly by the Food their Leaves afford to Sheep, their Roots being exceeding small; and for this small Profit they lose the Time of tilling the Ground, until after the Turneps are eaten off; which is a Damage we think greater than the Profit of such Turneps; To prevent which Damage, they may drill them in Rows at competent Distances, and Horse-hoe them, and set them out as soon as the Barley is off: This will both keep the Ground in Tilth, fit for another Crop of Spring Corn, and cause the Turneps to grow great enough (especially if Harvest be early, and the Winter prove favourable) for feeding of Sheep in a moveable Fold to dung the Ground into the Bargain.

I’m going to suggest a different method of drilling that could be really beneficial for those who plant their barley in a flat field and randomly sow turnip seeds among it, like they do with clover. This practice has become common in some areas lately. The barley keeps the turnips covered, limiting their growth enough that they can be useful in the winter or spring, mainly because their leaves provide food for sheep, while their roots are quite small. For this little benefit, they end up losing time on tilling the land until after the turnips are eaten, which we believe is a bigger downside than the benefit of those turnips. To avoid this issue, they can drill the seeds in rows at proper distances, use a horse hoe, and plant them out as soon as the barley is harvested. This approach will keep the soil ready for another crop of spring grains and allow the turnips to grow large enough (especially if harvest is early and the winter is mild) to feed sheep in a movable fold, adding fertilizer to the ground as well.

What induces me to propose this Improvement is, that a Gentleman plows up his Barley-Stubble, and transplants Turneps therein, and Hand-hoes them with Success. By the proposed Way all the Expence of transplanting (which must be considerable) will be saved; and the setting out cannot be more than an Eighth of the Labour of Hand-hoeings; and I conjecture the Horse-hoed Turneps may be as good; for they (though stinted) having their Tap-roots remaining unmoved below the Staple of the Land, their horizontal Roots, being supply’d with Moisture from the Tap-roots, immediately take hold of the fresh-plowed Earth, as soon as ’tis turned back to them; whereas the transplanted, having their Tap-roots broken off, and their Horizontal Roots crumpled in the Holes wherein they are set, must lose Time, and be in Danger of dying with Thirst, if the Weather proves dry.

What makes me want to suggest this improvement is that a guy plows up his barley stubble and successfully transplants turnips there. By using the proposed method, all the costs of transplanting (which can be significant) will be saved; and the initial setup shouldn’t take more than one-eighth of the labor needed for hand hoeing. I believe that horse-hoed turnips can be just as good because, even though they are stunted, their taproots stay undisturbed below the surface of the soil, and their horizontal roots are supplied with moisture from the taproots. They quickly take hold of the freshly plowed earth as soon as it’s turned back to them. On the other hand, transplanted turnips, with their taproots broken off and horizontal roots crumpled in the holes they’re placed in, will lose time and risk dying of drought if the weather turns dry.

Also this Way seems better than the common Practice of sowing Turneps upon once plowing after Wheat; because the Wheat-land commonly lies longer unplow’d by Six or Eight Months than Barley-land; and therefore cannot be in so good Tilth for Turneps as Barley-land may, unless the former be of a more friable Nature, or much more dunged, than the latter. Besides, these Wheat-Turneps are uncertain, in Respect of the Fly that often destroys them at their first coming up; which Misfortune happened the Autumn 1734 to almost all that were sown in that Manner.

Also, this method seems better than the usual practice of sowing turnips after plowing once for wheat. This is because wheat fields typically remain unplowed for six to eight months longer than barley fields, so they aren’t as well-prepared for turnips as barley fields might be, unless the wheat soil is much more loose or has been heavily fertilized compared to the barley soil. Additionally, these wheat turnips are unpredictable due to the fly that often destroys them when they first sprout; this misfortune occurred in the autumn of 1734 for almost all that were planted in that way.

I have observ’d, that Barley sown on the Level, and not hoed, overcomes the Turneps that come up amongst it; but that Turneps, which come up in the Partitions of Treble Rows of my Ridges of Horse-hoed Barley, grew so vigorously as to overcome the Barley. And this was demonstrated at Harvest in a long Field, one Side of which had borne Turnep-seed, and the drilled Ridges of Barley crossing the Middle of it; and both Ends of the Field having Barley sown on the Level, one End of every Ridge cross’d the Turnep-seed Part of the Field for about Ten Perches of their Length.

I’ve noticed that barley sown flat without being hoed can be outgrown by turnips that sprout among it. However, the turnips that grow in the spaced triple rows of my ridged, hoed barley thrive so well that they outgrow the barley. This was shown at harvest time in a long field where one side had turnip seed, and the drilled ridges of barley ran across the middle. Both ends of the field had barley sown flat, and one end of each ridge crossed over the turnip seed area of the field for about ten lengths.

I observed also, that the Turneps near the Edges of the Lands of sown Barley, adjoining to the hoed Intervals, grew large, but not so large as those in the Partitions on the Ridges, their Intervals being hoed on each Side of them.

I also noticed that the turnips near the edges of the barley fields, next to the tilled rows, grew big, but not as big as those in the sections on the ridges, where the rows were hoed on both sides.

But different from this have I seen shattered Turnep-seed coming up in the like Partitions of drilled Wheat, on the very same Sort of Land, so miserably poor and stinted, that they scarce grew a Hand’s Breadth high, when those Turneps which the Hoe left in the Sides of the Intervals, and at the narrow Edges of the unhoed Earth of the Interval Sides of the Rows of Wheat, grew large; and the Wheat was good also: But I do not remember how the middle Row of it succeeded.

But unlike this, I’ve seen broken turnip seeds coming up in the same sections of drilled wheat, on extremely poor and limited soil, barely growing a hand’s width high, while those turnips that the hoe left at the edges of the intervals and the narrow borders of the unhoed earth between the rows of wheat grew large; and the wheat was good too. But I don’t remember how the middle row turned out.

This last Experience of the Turneps among the Wheat was got by this Accident: The Wheat was drilled after drilled Turneps on Ridges of a different Size. The Turneps were all pulled up before the Ground was plowed for the Wheat; but as Turnep-seed never comes all up the first Year, enough remained of this to come up (though thinly) in the Wheat, to shew exactly where every Row had been drilled; whereupon the Observation was made.

This last experience with the turnips among the wheat happened by accident: The wheat was planted after the turnips were drilled on ridges of different sizes. All the turnips were pulled up before the ground was plowed for the wheat, but since turnip seeds don't all germinate the first year, enough of them remained to sprout (even though sparsely) in the wheat, clearly showing where each row had been drilled; this led to the observation being made.

[78]This Wheat, being thus drill’d on the new Ridges made in the Intervals, betwixt the Rows of Turneps, being well Horse-ho’d in the Spring, prov’d a very good Crop; it was drill’d in treble Rows, the Partitions Seven Inches each.

[78]This wheat, planted in the new ridges created between the rows of turnips and carefully hoed in the spring, produced a really good crop. It was sown in three rows, with seven inches of space between each partition.

When Turneps are planted too late, to have Time and Sun for attaining to their full Bulk, some drill a double Row on each Six-feet Ridge, with a Partition of Fourteen Inches; but I am told, that in this double Row the Turneps do not, even at that late Season, grow so large, as those planted at the same time in single Rows, tho’ the double Row requires[86] double the Expence in setting out; and there will be less Earth ho’d by the Breadth of fourteen Inches of the deepest Part of the Ridge, and consequently the Land will be the less improv’d for the next Crop. We need not to be very exact, in the Number[79] or Distance[80] we set them out at; we contrive to leave the Master-turneps (when there is much Difference in them), and spare such when near one another, and leave the more Space before and behind them; but if they be Three Master-turneps too near together, we take out the middlemost.

When turnips are planted too late to have enough time and sunlight to reach their full size, some people plant a double row on each six-foot ridge with a partition of fourteen inches. However, I've heard that in this double row, the turnips don’t grow as large, even at that late time, as those planted at the same time in single rows, even though the double row costs twice as much to set up. Additionally, there will be less soil available because of the fourteen-inch width of the ridge, which means the land won't be improved as much for the next crop. We don’t need to be too particular about the number or distance we space them out; we try to keep the master turnips (when there’s a big difference in size) while removing some if they’re too close to each other and leaving more space in front and behind them. But if three master turnips are too close together, we take out the one in the middle.

[79]The least Number will be the largest Turneps; yet we should have a competent Stock, which I think is not less than Thirty on a square Perch.

[79]The smallest number will produce the biggest turnips; however, we should have an adequate amount, which I believe is no less than thirty in a square perch.

[80]The Distance need not to be regular; for when a Turnep has Six Inches of Room on one Side, and Eighteen Inches on the other Side, ’tis almost as well as if there was one Foot on each Side: tho’ then it would be equally distant from the Two Turneps betwixt which it stood.

[80]The distance doesn’t have to be consistent; if one turnip has six inches of space on one side and eighteen inches on the other side, it's almost just as good as having one foot on each side. Although then it would be equally spaced between the two turnips it stands between.

Turneps that were so thick as to touch one another when half-grown, by means of well Hoeing their wide Intervals, have afterwards grown to a good Bigness, and by thrusting against one another became oval, instead of round.

Turnips that were so close together that they touched each other when they were half-grown, with proper hoeing in their wide spaces, later grew to a good size and ended up becoming oval instead of round by pressing against one another.

’Tis beneficial to hoe Turneps (especially the first Time) alternately; viz. to hoe every other Interval, and throw the Earth back again before we hoe the other Intervals; for by this Means the Turneps are kept from being[81] stinted: ’Tis better to have Nourishment given them moderately at twice, than to have it all once, and be twice as long before a Repetition[82].

It's helpful to hoe turnips (especially the first time) alternately; that is, to hoe every other space and throw the soil back before we hoe the other spaces. This way, the turnips are kept from being stunted: It's better to provide them with nourishment in moderation at two separate times than to give it all at once and have to wait twice as long for the next time.

[81]Because this alternate Hoeing doth not at all endanger the Roots by being dried by the Sun; for whilst one half of the Roots have Moisture, ’tis sufficient; the other Half will be supplied from those; so that they will soon take hold of the Earth again after being moved by the Hoe.

[81]Because this alternative method of hoeing does not risk drying out the roots in the sun; as long as one half of the roots retain moisture, that’s enough. The other half will get what it needs from them, so they will quickly reestablish themselves in the soil after being disturbed by the hoe.

[82]Sometimes, when Turneps are planted late, this alternate Hoeing suffices without any Repetition; but when they are planted early, ’twill be necessary to hoe them again; especially if Weeds appear.

[82]Sometimes, when Turneps are planted late, this alternate Hoeing is enough without needing to do it again; but when they are planted early, it’ll be necessary to hoe them again, especially if Weeds show up.

[87]

[87]

Tho’ the Earth on each Side the Row be left as narrow as possible[83]; yet ’tis very profitable to hoe that little with a Bidens[84], called here a Prong-hoe[85]; for this will be sure to let out all the Roots into the Intervals; even such as run very nearly parallel to the Rows.

Though the earth on either side of the row is kept as narrow as possible[83]; it's still very beneficial to hoe that small area with a Bidens[84], referred to here as a Prong-hoe[85]; because this will definitely expose all the roots in the spaces between, even those that run almost parallel to the rows.

[83]I do not think that we can go nearer to the Plants with the Hoe-plough, than within Three Inches of their Bodies.

[83]I don't think we can get any closer to the plants with the hoe-plow than three inches from their bodies.

[84]We ought not to use the Bidens for this Purpose, before the perpendicular Roots are as big as one’s little Finger.

[84]We shouldn't use the Bidens for this purpose until the vertical roots are as thick as a pinky finger.

[85]Some of these Prong-hoes have Three Teeth, and are reckoned better as a Tridens than a Bidens; but this is only in mellow Ground.

[85]Some of these Prong-hoes have three teeth and are considered better as a Tridens than a Bidens; but this is only in soft soil.

This alternate Way of Hoeing Plants that grow in single Rows, is of such vast Advantage, that four of these, which are but equal to Two of the whole Hoeings in Labour, are near equal to four whole Hoeings in Benefit; for when one Side is well nourished, the other Side cannot be starv’d[86].

This different method of hoeing plants that grow in single rows is so beneficial that using four of these techniques, which only require the same amount of labor as two traditional hoeings, is nearly as effective as doing four regular hoeings in terms of results. When one side is well tended, the other side can’t be neglected. A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__.

[86]But yet sometimes the Weeds, or other Circumstances, may make it proper to give them a whole Hoeing at first.

[86]But sometimes the weeds, or other circumstances, may make it necessary to give them a full hoeing at first.

Besides, where a great Quantity of Turneps are to be ho’d, the last ho’d may be stinted, before the first are finish’d by whole Hoeings.

Besides, where a large amount of turnips needs to be hoed, the last hoed may be limited before the first are finished with complete hoeing.

In this alternate Hoeing, the Hoe-plough may go deeper[87] and nearer to the Row, without Danger of thrusting it down on the Left Side, whilst the Plants are very small; because the Earth on the other Side of the Row always bears against it for its Support: But in the whole Hoeing, there is an open Furrow left the first Time on both Sides of the Row, and there is Danger of throwing it into one Furrow in[88] plowing the other; or, if the Row is not thrown down, it may be too much dry’d in hot Weather, by the Two Furrows lying too long open: Yet, when the Turneps are large before Hoeing, we need not fear either of these Dangers in giving them a whole Hoeing; as I have found by Experience, even when there has been left on each Side of the Row only about Three Inches Breadth of Earth; tho’ it is not best to suffer it to lie long open[88].

In this alternative hoeing method, the hoe can dig deeper and closer to the row without the risk of pushing it down on the left side while the plants are still very small. This is because the soil on the other side of the row always supports it. However, during the whole hoeing, an open furrow is left on both sides of the row the first time, which poses a risk of burying it in one furrow while plowing the other. If the row isn’t buried, it might dry out too much in hot weather due to both furrows being left open for too long. However, when the turnips are large before hoeing, we don’t have to worry about these risks when performing a whole hoeing. I’ve learned from experience that even when there’s only about three inches of earth left on each side of the row, it’s still not ideal to leave it open for too long.

[87]This deep Plowing so near to the Row is very beneficial at first; but afterwards, when the Plants are grown large, and have sent their Roots far into the Intervals, it would almost totally disroot them; and they, being Annuals, might not live long enough for a new Stock of Roots to extend so far as is necessary to bring the Turneps to their full Bigness.

[87]This deep plowing close to the row is really helpful at first, but later, when the plants have grown large and their roots have spread far into the gaps, it could almost completely uproot them. Since they are annuals, they might not survive long enough for a new set of roots to develop deeply enough to allow the turnips to reach their full size.

Note, At the last Hoeing we generally leave a broad, deep Trench in the middle of each Interval.

Note, At the last hoeing, we typically leave a wide, deep trench in the center of each space.

[88]But, if the Weather prove wet, we always suffer those Furrows to lie open, until the Earth be dry enough to be turn’d back again to the Row, without smearing or flicking together; unless such Weather continue so long that the Weeds begin to come up, and then we throw back the Furrows to stifle the Weeds, before they grow large, tho’ the Earth be wet.

[88]But, if the weather is wet, we leave the furrows open until the ground is dry enough to turn them back to the row without making a mess; unless the bad weather lasts so long that weeds start to appear, and then we pull the furrows back to smother the weeds before they grow too big, even if the ground is still wet.

Dry Weather does not injure Turneps when Horse-ho’d, as it does sown Turneps; the Hand-hoe does not go deep enough to keep the Earth moist, and secure the Plants against the Drought; and that is the best Season for Horse-hoeing, which always can keep the Roots moist[89].

Dry weather doesn't harm turnips when they're horse-hoed, unlike sown turnips. The hand hoe doesn’t dig deep enough to keep the soil moist and protect the plants from drought. The best time for horse-hoeing is when it can always keep the roots moist.[89].

[89]But if some Sorts of Earth have lain so long unmoved as to become very hard before the first Hoeing, the Hoe, going very rear to the Rows on each Side, may cause such hard Earth whereon the Rows stand, to crack and open enough to let in the Drought (i. e. the Sun and Air) to the Roots in very dry Weather. In this Case ’tis best to Horse-hoe alternately, as is directed in Page 86.

[89]But if certain types of soil have remained undisturbed for so long that they become very hard before the first tilling, using the hoe, which goes quite deep beside the rows on each side, can cause the hard soil where the rows are to crack and open up enough to allow drought (i.e., the sun and air) to reach the roots during very dry weather. In this case, it's best to alternate with a Horse-hoe, as mentioned directed in Page 86.

Dung and Tillage together will attain the necessary Degree of Pulveration, in less time than Plowing can do alone: Therefore Dung is more useful for Turneps, because they have commonly less time to grow than other Plants.

Dung and tillage together will achieve the necessary level of soil breakdown in less time than plowing can do on its own. Therefore, dung is more beneficial for turnips because they typically have less time to grow than other plants.

Turneps of Nineteen Pounds Weight I have several Times heard of, and of Sixteen Pounds Weight often known; and Twelve Pounds may be reckon’d the middle Size of great Turneps: And I can see no Reason, why every Turnep should not arrive to the full Bigness of its Species, if it did not want Part of its due Nourishment.

Turnips weighing nineteen pounds are something I've heard about several times, and sixteen-pound ones are quite common; twelve pounds is generally considered a medium size for large turnips. I don't see any reason why every turnip shouldn't grow to its full size if it had all the nourishment it needed.

[89]

[89]

The greatest Inconvenience, which has been observ’d in the Turnep-husbandry, is, when they are fed off late in the Spring (which is in many Places the greatest Use of them), there is not time to bring the Land in Tilth for Barley; the Loss of which Crop is sometimes more than the Gain of the Turneps: This is intirely remedied by the drilling Method; for, by that, the Land may be almost as well till’d before the Turneps are eaten, or taken off, as it can afterwards.

The biggest problem observed in growing turnips is that when they're fed off late in the spring (which is often when they're most useful), there's not enough time to prepare the land for barley. Sometimes, the loss of that crop outweighs the benefit of the turnips. This issue is completely solved by the drilling method; with this approach, the land can be nearly as well-prepared before the turnips are eaten or harvested as it can be afterwards.

If Turneps be sown in June, or the Beginning of July, the most experienced Turnep-Farmers will have no more than Thirty to a square Perch left in Hand-hoeing; and find that when more are left, the Crop will be less; but, in drilling the Rows at Six Feet Intervals, there may be Sixty to a Perch; and the Horse-hoe, by breaking so much more Earth than the Hand-hoe does, can nourish Sixty drill’d, as well as Thirty are by the sowing Method, which has been made appear upon Trial; but, I think, about Forty or Forty-five better than Sixty on a Perch; and the Number of Plants should always be proportion’d to the natural and artificial Pasture which is to maintain them; and sixty Turneps on a square Perch, at Five Pounds each (which is but a Third of the Weight of the large Size of Sheep-Turneps), make a Crop of above Eighty Quarters to an Acre[90].

If turnips are planted in June or the beginning of July, the most experienced turnip farmers will have no more than thirty left to hand-hoe per square perch; they find that if more are left, the crop will be smaller. However, if you drill the rows at six-foot intervals, you can have sixty per perch. The horse-hoe, by breaking up much more soil than the hand-hoe does, can support sixty drilled plants as well as thirty using the sowing method, which has been proven in trials. But I believe about forty or forty-five is better than sixty per perch. The number of plants should always match the natural and artificial pasture available to support them. Sixty turnips on a square perch, at five pounds each (which is just a third of the weight of larger sheep turnips), results in a crop of over eighty quarters per acre.[90].

[90]I have had Turneps upon poor undung’d Land, that weigh’d Fourteen Founds a-piece; but these were only such as had more Room than the rest. I have seen a whole Waggon-load of drill’d Turneps spread on the Ground, wherein I believe one could not have found one that weighed so little as six Pounds; or if the Rows had been searched before they had been pull’d up, they would have weighed Seven or Eight Pounds apiece one with another; we weighed some of them that were Thirteen, some Fourteen Pounds each, and yet they stood pretty thick: There might be, as I guess, about Fifty on a square Perch; but this Crop was on sandy Land, not poor; and was dung’d the Third or Fourth Year before; and had every Year a ho’d Crop of Potatoes, or Wheat, until the Year wherein the Turneps were planted.

I’ve had turnips from poorly drained land that weighed fourteen pounds each, but those were just the bigger ones. I once saw a whole wagonload of drilled turnips spread out on the ground, and I doubt any of them weighed less than six pounds. If we had searched through the rows before pulling them up, they probably would have averaged seven or eight pounds each. We weighed some that were thirteen and fourteen pounds each, and they were still pretty dense. I’d guess there were about fifty of them per square perch; but this crop was on sandy, fertile land, not poor land, and it had been fertilized three or four years before. Every year, it had a crop of hoed potatoes or wheat until the year the turnips were planted.

[90]

[90]

When Turneps are planted late (especially upon poor Ground), they may be a greater Number than when planted early; because they will not have time enough of Heat to enjoy the full Benefit of Hoeing, which would otherwise cause them to grow larger.

When turnips are planted late (especially in poor soil), there may be more of them than when planted early; because they won’t have enough time to benefit fully from the heat needed for hoeing, which would otherwise help them grow larger.

The greatest Turnep-Improvement used by the Farmer, is for his Cattle in the Winter; one Acre of Turneps will then maintain more than Fifty of Meadow or Pasture-ground.

The best use of turnips by farmers is for their livestock in the winter; one acre of turnips can support more than fifty acres of meadow or pasture land.

’Tis now so well known, that most Cattle will eat them, and how much they breed Milk, &c. that I need say nothing about it.

It’s now widely known that most livestock will eat them and how much milk they produce, &c. so I don’t need to say anything more about it.

Sheep always refuse them at first, and, unless they have eaten them whilst they were Lambs, must be ready to starve before they will feed on them; tho’, when they have tasted them, they will be fatted by them; and I have seen Lambs of Three Weeks old scoop them prettily, when those of a Year old (which are called Tegs) have been ready to die with Hunger amongst them; and for Three or Four Days would not touch them, but at last eat them very well.

Sheep always refuse them at first, and unless they’ve eaten them when they were lambs, they’ll be ready to starve before they’ll eat them; however, once they’ve tasted them, they’ll gain weight from them. I’ve seen three-week-old lambs eat them eagerly, while year-old sheep (called tegs) were ready to collapse from hunger around them. For three or four days, they wouldn’t touch them, but eventually, they would eat them quite well.

In some Places, the greatest Use of Turneps (except for fatting Oxen and Sheep) is for Ewes and Lambs in the Spring, when natural Grass is not grown on poor Ground; and if the artificial Grass be then fed by the common Manner, the Crop will be spoil’d, and it will yield the less Pasture all the Summer: I have known Farmers, for that Reason, oblig’d to keep their Ewes and Lambs upon Turneps (tho’ run up to Seed) even until the Middle of April.

In some areas, the main use of turnips (other than fattening cattle and sheep) is for ewes and lambs in the spring, when there isn't much natural grass growing on poor soil. If the artificial grass is then grazed in the usual way, the crop will be ruined, resulting in less pasture for the entire summer. I've seen farmers, for this reason, forced to keep their ewes and lambs on turnips (even when they've started to go to seed) all the way until mid-April.

There are now three Manners of spending Turneps with Sheep, amongst which I do not reckon the Way of putting a Flock of Sheep into a large Ground of Turneps without dividing it; for in that Case the[91] Flock will destroy as many Turneps in a Fortnight, as should keep them well a whole Winter.

There are now three ways to feed turnips to sheep, among which I don’t consider the method of letting a flock of sheep into a large area of turnips without dividing it. In that case, the[91] flock will eat as many turnips in two weeks as would be enough to keep them well for an entire winter.

The First Manner now in Use is, to divide the Ground of Turneps by Hurdles, giving them leave to come upon no more at a Time than they can eat in one Day, and so advance the Hurdles farther into the Ground daily, until all be spent; but we must observe, that they never eat them clean this Way, but leave the Bottoms and Outsides of the Turneps they have scoop’d in the Ground. These Bottoms People pull up with Iron Crooks, made for that Purpose; but their Cavities being tainted with Urine, Dung, and Dirt from their Feet, tho’ the Sheep do eat some of the Pieces, they waste more, and many the Crooks leave behind in the Earth; and even what they do eat of this tainted Food, can’t nourish them so well as that which is fresh and cleanly.

The first method currently used is to section off the turnip fields with hurdles, allowing the animals to eat only as much as they can finish in one day. Each day, the hurdles are moved further into the ground until everything is consumed. However, it's important to note that they never eat all of the turnips this way; they leave behind the bottoms and the outer parts of the turnips they’ve dug up. People use iron hooks designed for this purpose to pull up these leftovers, but since the cavities are contaminated with urine, manure, and dirt from their feet, although the sheep eat some of the pieces, they end up wasting more. Many of the hooks are left buried in the soil, and even the bits they do consume from this tainted food aren't as nourishing as fresh, clean food.

The second Manner is, to move the Hurdles every Day, as in the First; but that the Sheep may not tread upon the Turneps, they pull them up first, and then advance the Hurdles as far daily as the Turneps are pull’d up, and no farther: By this Means there is not that Waste made as in the other Way; the Food is eaten fresh and clean; and the Turneps are pull’d up with less Labour than their Pieces can be[91].

The second method is to move the hurdles every day, like in the first one; but to prevent the sheep from stepping on the turnips, they first pull them up and then move the hurdles forward each day as far as the turnips have been pulled up, and no further. This way, there’s less waste compared to the other method; the food is eaten fresh and clean, and the turnips are pulled up with less effort than their sections can handle.[91]

[91]I have seen Three Labourers work every Day with their Crooks, to pull up these Pieces, which was done with much Difficulty, the Ground being trodden very hard by the Sheep; when one Person, in Two Hours time, would have pull’d up all the whole Turneps daily, and the Sheep would have eaten them clean; but so many of those Pieces were dry’d and spoil’d, that, after the Land was sown with Barley, they appear’d very thick upon the Surface, and there could not be much less than half the Crop of Turneps wasted, notwithstanding the Contrivance of these Crooks.

[91]I have watched three workers every day using their hooks to pull up these pieces, which was done with a lot of effort because the ground was packed down hard by the sheep. In just two hours, one person could have pulled up all the turnips, and the sheep would have eaten them completely. However, so many of these pieces were dried out and ruined that after the land was sown with barley, they appeared very thick on the surface. It seemed like nearly half of the turnip crop was wasted, despite the effort of using these hooks.

The Third Manner is, to pull them up, and to carry them into some other Ground in a Cart, or Waggon, and there spread them every Day on a new[92] Place, where the Sheep will eat them up clean, both Leaf and Root: This is done when there is Land not far off, which has more Need of Dung, than that where the Turneps grow, which perhaps is also too wet for Sheep in the Winter; and then the Turneps will, by the too great Moisture and Dirt of the Soil, spoil the Sheep, and in some Soils give them the Rot, yet such Ground will bring forth more and larger Turneps than dry Land; and when they are carry’d off, and eaten on plow’d Ground in dry Weather, and on Green-swerd in wet Weather, the Sheep will thrive much better; and that moist Soil, not being trodden by the Sheep, will be in much the better Order for a Crop of Corn. And generally the Expence of Hurdles, and removing them, being saved, will more than countervail the Labour of carrying off the Turneps.

The Third Method is to pull them up and transport them to another area in a cart or wagon, then spread them out daily in a new spot where the sheep will completely consume them, both leaves and roots. This is done when there's nearby land that needs fertilizer more than the land where the turnips are growing, which might also be too wet for sheep in the winter. Too much moisture and dirt in the soil can harm the sheep and, in some cases, cause them to get sick, but such soil will produce more and larger turnips than dry land. Once the turnips are removed and eaten in plowed ground during dry weather, or in grassy areas during wet weather, the sheep will be much healthier. Plus, that moist soil, not being trampled by the sheep, will be in much better shape for a corn crop. Overall, the cost of hurdles and their relocation will be outweighed by the labor of transporting the turnips.

These Three Ways of spending Turneps with Sheep are common to those drill’d, and to those sown in the random Manner; but they must always be carry’d off for Cows and Oxen; both which will be well fatted by them, and some Hay in the Winter: The Management of these is the Business of a Grazier.

These three ways of using turnips with sheep are common for both drilled and randomly sown methods; however, they must always be removed for cows and oxen, as both will gain weight well by eating them along with some hay in the winter. Managing these is the job of a grazier.


CHAP. 9.
Of Wheat.

Tho’ all Sorts of Vegetables may have great Benefit from the Hoe, because it supplies them with Plenty of Food, at the Time of their greatest Need, yet they do not all equally require Hoeing; but the Plant that is to live the longest, should have the largest Stock of Sustenance provided for it: Generally[93] Wheat lives, or ought to live, longer than other Sorts of Corn; for if it be not sown before Spring, its Grain will be thin, and have but little Flour in it, which is the only useful Part for making Bread. And when sown late in the Winter, ’tis in great Danger of Death from the Frost, whilst weak and tender, being maintained (as a Fœtus) by the umbilical Vessels, until the Warmth of the Sun enables it to send out sufficient Roots of its own to subsist on, without Help of the Ovum.

Tho’ while all kinds of vegetables can benefit a lot from hoeing because it provides them with plenty of nutrients when they need it most, they don’t all need hoeing equally. However, the plant that is meant to live the longest should have the most sustenance prepared for it. Generally[93], wheat is expected to live longer than other types of corn; if it's not sown before spring, its grains will be sparse and contain little flour, which is the only useful part for making bread. Also, if sown late in the winter, it faces a high risk of dying from the frost while it's still weak and tender, as it relies on the umbilical vessels (like a Fœtus) until the sun warms up enough for it to grow its own roots to sustain itself, independent of the Ovum.

To prevent these Inconveniences, Wheat is usually sown in Autumn: Hence, having about thrice the Time to be maintain’d that Spring Corn hath, it requires a larger Supply of Nourishment, in proportion to that longer Time; not because the Wheat in its Infancy consumes the Stock of Food, during the Winter, proportionably to what it does afterwards; but because, during that long Interval betwixt Autumn and Spring Seed-times, most of the artificial Pasture is naturally lost, both in light and in strong Land.

To avoid these problems, wheat is typically planted in the fall. As a result, it needs about three times more time to grow compared to spring crops, which means it requires a larger supply of nutrients for that extended period. This isn't because young wheat uses up the food supply during the winter in the same way it does later; rather, it's because a lot of the artificial pasture is naturally lost during the long gap between fall and spring planting, both in light and heavy soil.

For this very Reason is that extraordinary Pains of fallowing and dunging the Soil, necessary to Wheat; tho’, notwithstanding all that Labour and Expence, the Ground is generally grown so stale by the Spring, and so little of the Benefit of that chargeable Culture remains, that, if Part of the same Field be sown in the Beginning of April, upon fresh Plowing, without the Dung, or Year’s Fallow, it will be as great or a greater Crop, in all Respects, except the Flour, which fails only for want of Time to fill the Grain.

For this reason, it's essential to put in the extra effort of preparing and fertilizing the soil for wheat. However, despite all the labor and expense, the land usually becomes depleted by spring, and most of the benefits of that costly cultivation are lost. If part of the same field is planted at the beginning of April after fresh plowing, without any manure or a year of resting the soil, it can produce a crop just as good or even better in every way except for the flour, which doesn't develop fully due to lack of time for the grain to mature.

Poor light Land, by the common Husbandry, must be very well cultivated and manur’d, to maintain Wheat for a whole Year, which is the usual Time it grows thereon; and if it be sown late, the greatest Part of it will seldom survive the Winter, on such Land; and if it be sown very early on strong Land, tho’ rich, well till’d, and dung’d, the Crop will be worse than on the poor light Land sown early. So[94] much do the long Winter’s Rains cause the Earth to subside, and the divided Parts to coalesce, and lock out the Roots from the Stock of Provision, which, tho’ it was laid in abundantly at Autumn, the Wheat has no great Occasion of until the Spring; and then the Soil is become too hard for the Roots to penetrate; and therefore must starve (like Tantalus) amidst Dainties, which may tempt the Roots, but cannot be attain’d by them.

Poor light land, with regular farming, needs to be really well cultivated and fertilized to grow wheat for an entire year, which is usually how long it takes to mature there. If it's sown late, a lot of it will typically not survive the winter on that type of land. And if it's sown very early on rich, well-tilled, and manured strong land, the crop will actually turn out worse than if it were sown early on the poor light land. The long winter rains make the soil settle, causing the separated parts to come together, which blocks the roots from accessing the stored nutrients. Even though it was well-stocked in the autumn, the wheat doesn’t really need it until spring, and by then the soil is too hard for the roots to break through; so they must suffer like Tantalus, surrounded by luxuries that tempt the roots but are unreachable.

But the new Method of Hoeing gives, to strong and to light Land, all the Advantages, and takes away all the Disadvantages, of both; as appears in the Chapters of Tillage and Hoeing. By this Method the strong Land may be planted with Wheat as early as the light (if plow’d dry); and the Hoe-Plough can, if rightly apply’d, raise a Pasture to it[92], equal to that of Dung in both Sorts of Land.

But the new method of hoeing gives both strong and light land all the benefits while eliminating the drawbacks of each, as shown in the chapters of Tillage and Hoeing. With this method, strong land can be planted with wheat as early as light land (if plowed dry); and the hoe-plow can, if used correctly, create a pasture that is as good as that from manure in both types of land.[92]

[92]Because the Hoe may go in it all the Year, and the Soil being infinitely divisible, the Division which the Hoe may make whilst the Crop is growing, added to the common Tillage, may equal, or even exceed, a common Dressing with Dung, as I have often experienced.

[92]Because the hoe can be used throughout the year, and the soil is infinitely divisible, the work done by the hoe while the crop is growing, combined with regular tilling, can match or even surpass a typical application of manure, as I have often seen.

About the Year 1701, when I had contrived my Drill for planting St. Foin, I made use of it also for Wheat. Drilling many Rows at once, which made the Work much more compendious, and perform’d it much better than Hands could do, making the Channels of a Foot Distance, drilling in the Seed, and covering it, did not in all amount to more than Six-pence per Acre Expence, which was above ten Times over-paid by the Seed that was saved; for One Bushel to an Acre was the Quantity drill’d; there remain’d then no need of Hand-work, but for the Hoeing; and this did cost from Half a Crown to Four Shillings per Acre. This way turn’d to a very good Account, and in considerable Quantities; it has brought as good a Crop of Wheat on Barley-stubble, as that sown the common Way on Summer-fallow;[95] and when that sown the old Way, on the same Field, on Barley-stubble, intirely fail’d, tho’ there was no other Difference but the Drilling and Hoeing: It was also such an Improvement to the Land, that when, one Part of a strong whitish Ground, all of equal Goodness, and equally fallow’d and till’d, was dung’d and sown in the common Manner, and the other Part was thus drill’d and hand-ho’d without Dung, the ho’d Part was not only the best Crop, but the whole Piece being fallow’d the next Year, and sown all alike by a Tenant, the ho’d Part produc’d so much a better Crop of Wheat than the dung’d Part, that a Stranger would have believ’d by looking on it, that that Part had been dung’d which was not[93], and that Part not to have been dung’d which really was.

Around the year 1701, when I had created my Drill for planting St. Foin, I also used it for Wheat. It allowed me to drill many rows at once, making the work much more efficient and achieving better results than manual labor. The channels were spaced a foot apart, and drilling in the seed and covering it cost no more than six pence per acre, which was over ten times less than what I saved in seed, as I used one bushel per acre. This significantly reduced the need for hand work, except for hoeing, which cost between two shillings and six pence to four shillings per acre. This method was highly profitable for large quantities and yielded as good a crop of wheat on barley stubble as that sown traditionally on summer fallow; in fact, when the crop was sown the old way on the same field, it completely failed, despite the only difference being the drilling and hoeing. It was such an improvement for the land that when one part of strong, light soil, equal in quality and preparation, was manured and sown the traditional way, while the other part was drilled and hand-hoed without manure, the hoeed part produced not only the best crop but when both sections were fallowed the following year and sown equally by a tenant, the hoeed part yielded such a better crop of wheat than the manured part that an outsider would have believed that the section without manure had actually received it and vice versa.

[93]If the Dung did pulverize as much as the Hoeing, the Cause must be from the different Exhaustion.

[93]If the dung broke down as much as the hoeing, then the reason must be the different levels of exhaustion.

Scarce any Land is so unfit, and ill prepar’d, for Wheat, as that where the natural Grass[94] abounds. Most other sorts of Weeds may be dealt withal when they come among drill’d Wheat; but ’tis impossible to extract Grass from the Rows: Therefore let that be kill’d before the Wheat be planted.

Hardly any land is as unsuitable and poorly prepared for wheat as land where natural grass abounds. Most other types of weeds can be managed when they grow among planted wheat, but it’s impossible to remove grass from the rows. So, it’s best to kill it off before planting the wheat.

[94]One Bunch of natural Grass, transplanted by the Plough into a treble Row of Wheat, will destroy almost a whole Yard of it.

[94]One bunch of natural grass, moved by the plow into a triple row of wheat, will ruin almost an entire yard of it.

The Six-feet Ridges being Eleven, on Sixty-six Feet, which is an Acre’s Breadth, ought to be made Lengthways of the Field, if there be no Impediment against it; as if it be an Hill of any considerable Steepness, then they must be made to run up and down, whether that be the Length or Breadth of the Piece; for if the Ridges should go cross such a Hill, they could not be well Horse-ho’d; because it would be very difficult to turn a Furrow upwards, close to the Row above it, or to turn a Furrow downwards, without burying the Row below it; and even[96] when a Furrow is turn’d from the lower Row, enough of the Earth to bury that Row will be apt to run over on the Left-side of the Plough; unless it goes at such a Distance from the Row, as to give it no Benefit of Hoeing.

The six-foot ridges should be eleven in total, extending across sixty-six feet, which is the width of an acre. They should run along the length of the field, unless there’s some obstacle preventing it. If there’s a hill that’s steep, the ridges have to run up and down, whether it’s the length or the width of the plot. If the ridges go across a steep hill, they won't be easy to work with; it would be really hard to turn a furrow upwards near the row above or to turn a furrow downwards without burying the row below. Even when a furrow is turned away from the lower row, some of the soil tends to fall on the left side of the plow, unless it’s far enough away to avoid affecting the row and provide room for hoeing.

These Ridges should be made strait and equal: And to make them strait[95] all good Ploughmen know how; and they will, by setting up Marks to look at, plow in a Line like the Path of an Arrow: But to make the Ridges equal, ’tis necessary to mark out a Number of them, before you begin to plow, by short Sticks set up at each End of the Piece; and then if one Ridge happen to be a little too broad, the next may be made the narrower; for if the Plough comes not out exactly at the second Stick, the Two Ridges may be made equal by the next Plowing, or by the Drilling; but if many contiguous Ridges should be too wide, or too narrow, ’twill be difficult to bring them all to an Equality afterwards, without levelling the whole Piece, and laying out the Ridges all anew.

These ridges should be straight and uniform: And to make them straight, every good farmer knows how; they will use markers to guide them and plow in a straight line like an arrow's flight. But to make the ridges equal, it's important to mark out several of them before you start plowing, using short sticks placed at each end of the plot; then, if one ridge turns out a bit too wide, the next can be made narrower. If the plow doesn't land exactly at the second stick, the two ridges can be equalized with the next plowing or drilling. However, if many adjacent ridges are too wide or too narrow, it will be challenging to make them equal later without leveling the entire plot and laying out the ridges again.

[95]But if the Piece be of such a crooked or serpentine Form, that the Ridges cannot well be plow’d strait the first Time, ’tis best to drill it upon the Level; and then the marking Wheels may direct for making the Row all parallel and equidistant; which will guide the Plough to make all the Ridges for the next and all the subsequent Crops, as equal.

[95]However, if the piece is so twisted or serpentine that the ridges can’t be easily plowed straight the first time, it’s better to drill it level. Then, the marking wheels can help create rows that are all parallel and evenly spaced, guiding the plow to make all the ridges for the next and all future crops uniform.

The exact Height of Ridges, which is best, I cannot determine[96]: A different Soil may require a different Height, according to the Depth, Richness, and Pulveration of the Mould. As Wheat covets always to lie dry in the Winter, so there is no other way to keep it so dry as these Ridges; for when they are, after the first Hoeing, about Eighteen Inches[97] broad[97], with a Ditch on each Side, of almost a Foot deep, the Rain-water runs off such narrow Ridges as fast it falls, and much sooner[98] than ’tis possible for it to do from broad Ridges.

I can’t say for sure what the ideal height of the ridges is. Different types of soil might need different heights, depending on the depth, quality, and texture of the soil. Since wheat prefers to stay dry in winter, the best way to keep it dry is with these ridges. After the first hoeing, if the ridges are about eighteen inches wide[97] and there's a ditch on each side that’s nearly a foot deep, the rainwater will drain off those narrow ridges much faster than it would from wide ones.

[96]I find by measuring my Wheat Ridges in the Spring, that none of them are quite a Foot high; and some of them only Six Inches; but I know not how much they have subsided in the Winter; for they were certainly higher when first made.

[96]I've measured my Wheat Ridges in the Spring, and none of them are quite a foot tall; some are only six inches. I’m not sure how much they’ve settled over the winter because they were definitely taller when I first made them.

[97]This is the Breadth the Ridges are generally left at, when the Furrows are hoed from them, and thrown into the Intervals.

[97]This is the width that the ridges are usually maintained at when the furrows are hoed away from them and the soil is thrown into the gaps.

[98]Water, when it runs off very soon, is beneficial, as is seen in water’d Meadows; but where it remains long on, or very near the Bodies of terrestrial Plants, it kills them, or at least is very injurious to them.

[98]Water is beneficial when it drains away quickly, like in watered meadows. However, when it stays too long on or near the roots of land plants, it can kill them or at least seriously harm them.

And the deeper the Soil, the more occasion there commonly is of this high Situation; because such Land is wetter for the most Part than shallow Land, where we cannot make the Furrows so deep, nor the Ridges so high[99], as in deep Land; for we must never plow below the Staple. I see the Wheat on these ho’d Ridges flourish, and grow vigorously, in wet Weather, when other Wheat looks yellow and sickly.

And the deeper the soil, the more likely we are to have this favorable situation; because such land is generally wetter than shallow land, where we can't make the furrows as deep or the ridges as high [99] as in deep land; because we should never plow below the staple. I see the wheat on these hoed ridges thriving and growing strong in wet weather, while other wheat looks yellow and unhealthy.

[99]If we should make our Ridges as high on a shallow Soil, as we may on a deep Soil, there would be a Deficiency of Mould in the Intervals of equal Breadth with those of a deep Soil.

[99]If we were to build our hills as high on shallow soil as we can on deep soil, there would be a lack of soil in the spaces that are the same width as those on deep soil.

The same wide Interval, which is ho’d betwixt Ridges the First time, with Two Furrows, must have had Four Furrows, to hoe it on the Level; or else the Furrow, that is turn’d from the Row, would rise up, and a great Part of it fall over to the Left-hand, and bury the Row; but when turn’d from a Ridge, it will all fall down to the Right-hand.

The same wide space, which is hoed between ridges the first time, with two furrows, must have had four furrows to hoe it level; otherwise, the furrow turned away from the row would rise up, causing a large part of it to fall over to the left and cover the row. But when turned from a ridge, everything will fall down to the right.

You must not leave the Tops of the Ridges quite so narrow and sharp for Drilling of Wheat, as you may for drilling Turneps; Wheat being in treble Rows, but Turneps generally in single Rows[100]. This is our Method of making Ridges for the First Crop of drill’d Wheat.

You shouldn’t leave the tops of the ridges too narrow and sharp for planting wheat, as you can for planting turnips; wheat is usually planted in three rows, while turnips are typically planted in single rows. This is our method of making ridges for the first crop of drilled wheat.

[100]A single Row taking up less of the Breadth, may be afforded to have more of the Ridge’s Depth; because it leaves the Interval wider.

[100]A single row that takes up less space in width can have more depth because it creates a wider gap.

[98]

[98]

But the Method of making Ridges for a succeeding Crop, after the former is harvested, is best perform’d as follows: In making Ridges for Wheat after Wheat, you must raise them to their full Height, before you plow the old Partitions, with their Stubble, up to them; for if you go about to make the Ridges higher afterwards, the Stubble will so mix with the Mould of their Tops, that it may not only be an Hindrance to the Drill, but also to the First Hoeing; because if the Hoe-plough goes so near to the Rows as it ought, it would be apt to tear out the Wheat-plants along with the Stubble.

But the method for creating ridges for the next crop after harvesting the previous one is best carried out like this: When making ridges for wheat after wheat, you need to raise them to their full height before plowing the old partitions with their stubble up to them. If you try to make the ridges higher afterward, the stubble will mix with the soil at the top, which could hinder the drill and also the first hoeing. This is because if the hoe plow goes as close to the rows as it should, it might pull out the wheat plants along with the stubble.

In Reaping, we cut as near as we can to the Ground[101]; which is easily done, because the Stalks stand all close together at Bottom, contrary to those of sown Wheat.

In Reaping, we cut as close as we can to the ground[101]; which is easy to do because the stalks are all packed tightly together at the bottom, unlike those of sown wheat.

[101]When Wheat is reap’d very low, the Stubble is no great Impediment; and I do this when I am forc’d to inlarge the Breadth of my Ridges, or to change their Bearing, as I do when I find it convenient for them to point Cross-ways of the Field instead of Length ways; as if one End of it be wetter than the other: For ’tis inconvenient, that one End of a Ridge should be in the wet Part, and the other in the dry; because, in that Case, we cannot hoe the dry End without hoeing the wet at the same time; and whilst we attend for the wet Part to become dry, it may happen, that the Season for hoeing the whole (if the Quantity be great) may be lost.

[101]When wheat is harvested very low, the leftover stubble isn’t much of an obstacle; I do this when I need to widen my rows or change their direction, especially when it makes sense for them to run across the field instead of along its length, like when one end is wetter than the other. It’s not ideal for one end of a row to be in a wet area and the other in a dry one because in that case, we can’t tend to the dry end without also dealing with the wet part. While we wait for the wet area to dry out, we might miss the right time to tend to the whole area if the quantity is large.

I find this Stubble, when ’tis only mixt with the Intervals, very beneficial to the Hoeing of my Wheat; but I know not whether it may be so in rich miry Land.

I find that this stubble, when mixed only with the breaks, is very helpful for hoeing my wheat; but I’m not sure if it works the same way in rich, muddy land.

As soon as conveniently you can, after the Crop of Wheat is carried off (if the Trench in the Middle of each wide Interval be left deep enough by the last Hoeing), go as near as you can to the Stubble with a common Plough, and turn Two large Furrows into the Middle of the Intervals, which will[102] make a[99] Ridge over the Place where the Trench was: But if the Trench be not deep enough, go first in the Middle of it with one Furrow; which with Two more[100] taken from the Ridges, will be three Furrows in each Interval; continue this Plowing as long as the dry Weather lasteth; and then finish, by turning the Partitions (whereon the last Wheat grew) up to the new Ridges, which is usually done at Two great Furrows. You may plow these last Furrows, which complete the Ridges, in wet Weather.

As soon as you can, after the wheat is harvested (if the trench in the middle of each wide space is deep enough from the last hoeing), get as close as possible to the stubble with a regular plow and turn two large furrows into the center of the spaces, which will make a[99] ridge over where the trench was. But if the trench isn't deep enough, first plow down the middle of it with one furrow; then, with two more taken from the ridges, you'll have three furrows in each space. Keep plowing like this as long as the dry weather lasts, and then finish by turning the partitions (where the last wheat grew) up to the new ridges, usually done with two large furrows. You can plow these last furrows, which complete the ridges, in wet weather.

[102]’Tis the Depth and Fineness of this Ridge that the Success of our Crop depends on; the Plants having nothing else to maintain them during the First Six Months; and if, for want of Sustenance, they are weak in the Spring, ’twill be more difficult to make them recover their Strength afterwards so fully as to bring them to their due Perfection. But Ploughmen have found a Trick to disappoint us in this fundamental Part of our Husbandry, if they are not narrowly watched: They do it in the following Manner; viz. They contrive to leave the Trench very shallow; and then, in turning the Two First Furrows of the Ridge, they hold the Plough towards the Left, which raises up the Fin of the Share, and leaves so much of the Earth whereon the Rows are to stand whole and unplowed, that after once Harrowing there doth not remain above Two or Three Inches in Depth of fine Earth underneath the Rows when drilled, instead of Ten or Twelve Inches.

[102] The depth and quality of this ridge are crucial for the success of our crop; the plants rely on it for sustenance during the first six months. If they start off weak in the spring due to lack of support, it will be much harder for them to regain their strength later on and reach their full potential. However, farmers have come up with a way to undermine this essential aspect of our farming if they aren't closely monitored. They do this in the following way: they intentionally leave the trench very shallow, and while turning the first two furrows of the ridge, they angle the plow to the left. This lifts the fin of the share and leaves too much of the soil where the rows should stand untouched and unplowed. As a result, after harrowing, there is only about two or three inches of fine soil left under the rows when drilled, instead of the intended ten or twelve inches.

On a Time, when my Diseases permitted me to go into the Wheat-field, where my Ploughs were at Work, I discovered this Trick, and ventured to ask my chief Ploughman his Reason for doing this in my Absence, contrary to my Direction. He magisterially answer’d, according to his own Theory, which Servants judge ought to be follow’d before that of him they call Master, saying, That as the Roots of Wheat never reached more than Two or Three Inches deep, there was no need that the fine Mould should be any deeper. But those shallow Ridges, which were indeed too many, producing a Crop very much inferior to the contiguous deep Ridges, shewed, at my Cost, the Mistake of my cunning Ploughman.

One time, when my health allowed me to go to the wheat field where my plows were working, I noticed this trick and decided to ask my head plowman why he did this in my absence, against my instructions. He responded authoritatively, based on his own theory, which servants believe should take precedence over that of their so-called master, saying that since the roots of wheat only go down two or three inches, there was no need for the soil to be any deeper. However, those shallow ridges, which were indeed too many, produced a crop that was much worse than the nearby deep ridges, proving my clever plowman's mistake at my expense.

’Tis true, that People who examine Wheat-roots when dead, are apt to fall into this mistake; for then they are shrivell’d up, and so rotten, that they break off very near to the Stalk in pulling up; but if they are examined in their Vigour at Summer with Care, in a friable Soil, they may be seen to descend as deep as the fine pulveriz’d Mould reacheth, though that should be a Foot in Thickness.

It's true that people who look at dead wheat roots often make this mistake; they are shriveled and so decayed that they break off very close to the stalk when pulled up. However, if they are examined in their prime during summer with care, in loose soil, they can be seen to reach as deep as the finely crushed soil allows, even if that is a foot thick.

I took up a Wheat-ear in Harvest that had lain on the Grass in wet Weather, where the Wind could not come to dry it, which had sent out white Roots like the Teeth of a Comb, some of them Three Inches long: None having reached the Ground, they could not be nourished from any thing but the Grains, which remained fast to the Ear, and had not as yet sent out any Blade. ’Tis unreasonable to imagine, that such a single Root as one of these, when in the Earth, from whence it must maintain a pretty large Plant all or most Part of the Winter, should descend no farther than when it was itself maintained from the Flour of the Grain only.

I picked up a wheat ear during harvest that had been lying on the grass in wet weather, where the wind couldn't dry it out. It had developed white roots that looked like the teeth of a comb, some of them three inches long. Since none of them reached the ground, they couldn’t get nourishment from anything but the grains that stayed attached to the ear and hadn’t yet sent out any blades. It’s unreasonable to think that such a single root could support a fairly large plant throughout most of the winter if it only goes as deep as when it was getting its sustenance from the grain flour.

To make a Six-feet Ridge very high, will sometimes require more Furrows; as when the Middle of the Intervals are open very wide and deep, then Six Furrows to the whole Ridge may be necessary, and they not little ones; and the Season makes a Difference, as well as the Size of the Furrows; for when the fine Mould is very dry (which is best), it will much of it run to the Left-hand before the Plough, and also more will run back again to the Left after the Plough is gone past it.

To make a six-foot ridge really tall, you might sometimes need more furrows. If the middle of the gaps is very wide and deep, then six furrows for the entire ridge could be necessary, and they can't be small either. The season affects this too, along with the size of the furrows; when the fine soil is really dry (which is ideal), a lot of it will move to the left in front of the plow, and even more will shift back to the left after the plow has passed.

But when such Ridges have been made for Wheat, and the Season continues long too dry for planting it, and the Stubble not thrown up, we then plow one deep Furrow on the Middle of each Ridge, and then plow the whole Ridge at Four Furrows more, which will raise it very high. This Way of replowing the Ridges moves all the Earth of them, and yet is done at Five Furrows.

But when these ridges have been created for wheat, and the season stays dry for too long to plant it, and the stubble hasn’t been turned over, we then plow one deep furrow in the middle of each ridge, and then plow the entire ridge with four more furrows, which will raise it quite high. This method of re-plowing the ridges shifts all the soil on them, and it’s still done with just five furrows.

The Furrows, necessary for raising up the Ridges, must be more, or fewer, in regard to the Bigness of them; because Six small Furrows may be less than Four great ones. ’Tis not best to plow the Stubble up to the Ridges, until just before Planting (especially in the early Plowing); because that will hinder the Re-plowing of the First Furrows, which, if the Season continues dry, may be necessary: Sometimes we do this by opening One Furrow in the Middle of the Ridge, sometimes Two, and afterwards raise up the Ridges again; and when they are become moist enough at Top (the old Partitions being plow’d up to them), we harrow them[101] once[103] (and that only Lengthways); and then drill them.

The furrows needed for creating the ridges must match the size of the ridges—so there can be more or fewer furrows depending on their size. For example, six small furrows might be smaller than four large ones. It's not a good idea to plow the stubble up to the ridges until just before planting, especially if you plow early, because it can interfere with re-plowing the first furrows, which might be necessary if the season stays dry. Sometimes, we do this by opening one furrow in the middle of the ridge, sometimes two, and then we raise the ridges again. When the tops are moist enough, and the old partitions have been plowed up to them, we harrow them[101] once—only lengthwise—and then we drill them.

[103]But if once be not sufficient to level the Tops of the Ridges fit for the Drill to pass thereon, as it always will, unless the Two hard Furrows lie so high, that all the Three Shares of the Drill cannot reach to make their Channels, in this Case you must harrow again until they can all reach deep enough. Also in some Sort of Land, that when drilled late, and very moist, will stick to the Shares like Pitch or Bird-lime, whereby the Channels are in Part left open by the Drill-harrow, it must be harrowed after ’tis drilled, because ’tis necessary in such Land to take off the common Drill-harrow, in order for a Man to follow the Drill with a Paddle, or else a forked Stick, with which he frees the Sheats of the adhering Dirt; this Harrow being gone, much of the Seed will lie uncovered, and then must be covered with common Harrows; unless a Drill-harrow, which was not in Use when my Plates were made, be placed instead of that taken off: This, with its two Iron Tines, will cover the Seed in this Case much better than common Harrows, and will be no Hindrance to cleansing of the Sheats, the Legs by which this Harrow is drawn, being remote from them, placed at near the End of the Plank; and note, that the most proper Drill for this Purpose is one that has only Two Shares, standing a Foot or fourteen Inches asunder: This Harrow serves for taking up the Drill to turn it.

[103]But if one pass isn't enough to level the tops of the ridges for the drill to work smoothly, which will happen unless the two hard furrows are so high that all three shares of the drill can't reach to create their channels, then you'll need to harrow again until they can reach deep enough. Also, in some types of soil, when drilled late and very moist, it can stick to the shares like pitch or bird-lime, leaving the channels partially open due to the drill-harrow. In such cases, you have to harrow after drilling because it’s necessary to remove the usual drill-harrow so a person can follow the drill with a paddle or a forked stick to clear the shares of the stuck dirt. Once that harrow is off, much of the seed will be left uncovered, and you'll need to cover it with regular harrows unless you use a drill-harrow, which wasn’t available when my plates were made, to replace it. This drill-harrow, with its two iron tines, will cover the seed much better in this situation than regular harrows and won't interfere with cleaning the shares since the legs that pull this harrow are placed far from them, near the end of the plank. Note, the best drill for this purpose is one with only two shares, spaced a foot or fourteen inches apart: this harrow is also used to lift the drill for turning.

There is a Necessity of plowing the old Partitions up to the new Ridges to support their other Earth from falling down by the Harrowing and Drilling, which would else make them level.

There is a need to plow the old partitions up to the new ridges to prevent the other soil from collapsing due to the harrowing and drilling, which would otherwise make them flat.

Our Ridges, after the First Time of Plowing, excel common Ridges of the same Height; because these, tho’ as deep in Mould at the Tops, have little of it till’d at the last Plowing; but ours, being made upon the open Trenches, consist of new-till’d pulveriz’d Mould, from Top to Bottom.

Our Ridges, after the first plowing, are better than regular Ridges of the same height because, although they have the same amount of soil at the top, most of it hasn't been tilled until the last plowing. In contrast, ours, created from the open trenches, are made up of freshly tilled, crushed soil from top to bottom.

’Tis a general Rule, that all Sorts of Grain and Seeds prosper best, sown when the Ground is so dry, as to be broken into the most Parts by the Plough. The Reason why Wheat is an Exception to that Rule is, because it must endure the Rigours of Winter, which ’tis the better able to do, by the Earth’s being[102] press’d or trodden harder, and closer to it[104], as it is when moved wet.

It's a general rule that all types of grain and seeds grow best when sown in dry soil that has been broken into smaller pieces by the plow. The reason wheat is an exception to this rule is that it needs to survive the harshness of winter, which it can do better when the soil is packed down harder and closer to it, as it is when it’s worked while wet.[102]

[104]’Tis for that Reason, that Farmers drive their Sheep over very light Land, as soon as ’tis sown with Wheat, to tread the (Top or) Surface of it hard: and then the Cold of the Winter cannot so easily penetrate, to kill the Roots of the tender Plants.

[104]It's for that reason that farmers herd their sheep over very light land as soon as it's sown with wheat, to compact the surface. This way, the winter cold can't easily penetrate and kill the roots of the delicate plants.

If Wheat were as hardy as Rye, and its Roots as patient of Cold, it might, no doubt, be sown in as dry a Season as Rye is, and prosper the better for it, as Rye doth. This will appear, if Wheat and Rye be both sown in the same dry Season, after the Winter is over.

If wheat were as tough as rye and its roots could handle the cold just as well, it could definitely be planted in as dry a season as rye is and thrive even more, just like rye does. This will be clear if both wheat and rye are sown in the same dry season after winter is over.

But as Wheat requires to have the Earth lie harder on and about it, in the Winter; so it also requires more Dung (or somewhat else) to dissolve the Earth about its Roots, after the cold Winter is past, than Rye doth, whose Roots never were so much confined.

But just as wheat needs the soil to be compacted more around it during the winter, it also requires more manure (or something similar) to break down the soil around its roots after the cold winter is over, compared to rye, whose roots are never as restricted.

’Tis another general Rule, that all Sorts of Vegetables thrive best, when sown on fresh till’d Ground, immediately after ’tis plow’d.

It’s another general rule that all kinds of vegetables grow best when planted in fresh, tilled soil right after it’s plowed.

Wheat is an Exception to this Rule also; for ’tis better to plow the Ground dry, and let it lie till the Weather moistens it (tho’ it be several Weeks), and then drill the Wheat: The Harrows and the Drill will move a sufficient Part of the Ground, which will stick together for Defence of the small Roots, during the Winter, the rest of the Mould, lying open, and divided underneath until Spring, to nourish them.

Wheat is an exception to this rule as well; it’s better to plow the ground when it’s dry and let it sit until the weather moistens it (even if that takes several weeks) before drilling the wheat. The harrows and the drill will shift enough of the ground to protect the small roots during winter, while the rest of the soil remains open and broken underneath until spring to nourish them.

There is a Sort of binding Sand, that requires not only to be plow’d dry, but sow’d dry also; or else the Wheat will dwindle in the Spring, and fail of being a tolerable Crop.

There’s a type of binding sand that needs to be plowed when it’s dry and sown when it’s dry too; otherwise, the wheat will struggle in the spring and won’t produce an acceptable crop.

But what I mean by dry Plowing is, not that the Land should always be so void of Moisture, as that the Dust should fly; but it must not be so wet, as to stick together[105]. Neither should we drill when[103] the Earth is wet as Pap; it suffices that it be moist, but moister in light Land than in strong Land, when we drill.

But what I mean by dry plowing is not that the land should always be completely dry, causing dust to fly everywhere; rather, it shouldn't be so wet that it clumps together. We also shouldn't seed when the ground is as wet as paste; it's enough for it to be moist, but it should be wetter in lighter soil than in heavier soil when we plant.

[105]But the drier ’tis plow’d the better.

[105]But the drier it is plowed, the better.

If the Two Furrows, whereon the treble Row is to stand, be plow’d wet, the Earth of the Partitions may grow so hard by the Spring, that the Roots cannot run freely therein, unless there be Dung to ferment and keep it open.

If the Two Furrows, where the triple Row is supposed to be, are plowed when they're wet, the soil in the partitions might become so hard by spring that the roots can't easily grow in it unless there's manure to break it down and keep it loose.

So we see, that a steep Bank, made of wet Earth, will lie fast for several Years, when another, made of the same Earth dry, will moulder, and run down very soon; because its Parts have not the Cohesion that holds the other together, it continues open, and more porous, and crumbles continually down.

So we can see that a steep bank made of wet soil can hold up for several years, while one made of the same dry soil will quickly deteriorate and wash away. This is because its particles lack the cohesion that keeps the wet soil intact; it remains open and more porous, and continuously crumbles down.

I have seen Trials of this Difference betwixt plowing Dry, and plowing Wet, for planting of Wheat, both in the Old Way, and in the Drilling Way, but most in the latter; and never saw an Instance where the Dry-Plowing did not outdo the Wet; if the Wheat was not planted thereon before the Earth was become moist enough at Top.

I have observed experiments comparing dry plowing and wet plowing for planting wheat, looking at both the traditional method and the drilling method, but mostly the latter; and I have never seen a case where dry plowing didn’t perform better than wet plowing, unless the wheat was planted before the topsoil became moist enough.

And strong Land, plow’d wet in November, will be harder in the Spring, than if plow’d dry in August; tho’ it would then have Three Months longer to lie.

And strong land that’s plowed when wet in November will be harder in the spring than if it’s plowed dry in August; even though it would then have three months longer to sit.

After Rain, when the Top of the Ground is of a fit Moisture for Drilling, harrow it with Two light Harrows, drawn by a Horse going in the Furrow betwixt Two Ridges[106]; once will be enough, the Furrow being just broken to level, or rather smooth it for the Drill.

After rain, when the top of the ground is at the right moisture level for drilling, harrow it with two light harrows pulled by a horse going down the furrow between two ridges[106]; one pass will be enough, as the furrow will just be broken to level, or rather smoothed out for drilling.

[106]Once Harrowing is generally enough, but not always.

[106]Once is usually enough, but not always.

If the Veerings[107] whereon the next Crop is to stand, be plow’d dry, we may drill at any Time[104] during the common and usual Wheat-seed time, that is proper for the sort of Wheat to be drill’d, and the sort of Land, whether that be early or late, we may drill earlier, but not later than the sowing Farmers. But I have had good Crops of Wheat drill’d at all Times betwixt Harvest and the Beginning of November.

If the fields where the next crop will be planted are plowed dry, we can sow at any time during the regular wheat-seeding period that's suitable for the type of wheat we’re planting and the type of land, whether that’s early or late. We can sow earlier, but not later than the farmers who usually plant. However, I've had good wheat crops sown at any time between harvest and the beginning of November. [104]

[107]The Word veering is, I believe, taken from the Seamen, and signifies to turn: It is the Ploughman’s Term for turning Two Furrows toward each other, as they must do to begin a Ridge: and therefore they call the Top of a Ridge a Veering; they call the Two Furrows that are turn’d from each other at the Bottom, between Two Ridges, a Henting, i. e. an Ending: because it makes an End of plowing Ridges.

[107]The term "veering" is, I think, derived from sailors and means to turn. It’s a term used by plowmen to describe turning two furrows towards each other, which is necessary to start a ridge. Because of this, they refer to the top of a ridge as a "veering." The two furrows that are turned away from each other at the bottom, between two ridges, are called a "henting," meaning an "ending," since it marks the end of plowing ridges.

Our Intervals wholly consist of Veerings or Hentings; when Two Furrows are turn’d from the Rows, they make a Veering; when turn’d towards the Rows, they are a Henting, which is the deep wide Trench in the Middle of an Interval.

Our Intervals are entirely made up of Veerings or Hentings; when two furrows are turned away from the rows, they create a Veering; when turned towards the rows, they are a Henting, which is the wide, deep trench in the middle of an Interval.

For the Benefit of the middle Rows, ’tis better not to drill Wheat on strong Land before the usual Season; because the later ’tis planted, the more open the Partitions will be for the Roots of those Rows to run through them in the Spring: and yet, if the Earth of the Partitions be plow’d very wet, tho’ late, they may be harder at the Spring, than those which are plow’d early and dry.

For the benefit of the middle rows, it’s better not to plant wheat on strong land before the usual season. The later it’s planted, the more open the partitions will be for the roots of those rows to spread through them in the spring. However, if the soil of the partitions is plowed while it’s very wet, even if it’s late, they may be tougher in the spring than those that are plowed early and dry.

There is a Sort of Wheat call’d by some[108] Smyrna Wheat: It has a prodigious large Ear, with many less (or collateral) Ears, coming all round the Bottom of this Ear; as it is the largest of all Sorts of Wheat, so it will dispense with the Nourishment of a Garden, without being over-fed, and requires more Nourishment than the common Husbandry[105] will afford it; for there its Ears grow not much bigger than those of common Wheat: This I believe to be, for that Reason, the very best Sort for the Hoeing Husbandry; next to this I esteem the White-cone Wheat, then the Grey-cone. I have had very good Crops from other Sorts; but look upon these to be the best.

There’s a type of wheat called Smyrna Wheat: It has an exceptionally large ear, with many smaller (or side) ears growing all around the base of this ear. Since it’s the largest type of wheat, it can thrive without extra garden nutrients and needs more nourishment than standard farming methods can provide; over there, its ears don’t grow much larger than those of regular wheat. For this reason, I believe it’s the best type for hoe-based farming. After that, I consider the White-cone wheat to be next best, followed by the Grey-cone. I’ve had very good harvests from other types, but I think these are the top choices.

[108]’Tis said to grow mostly in some Islands of the Archipelago, and some Author describes it Triticum spica multiplici: There is another Sort of Wheat that has many little Ears coming out of Two Sides of the main Ear, but this is very late ripe, and doth not succeed well here, nor is it liked by them who have sown it; yet I have had some Ears of it by chance among my drill’d Wheat, which have been larger than those of any common Sort. I have not as yet been able to procure any of the Smyrna Wheat, which I look on as a great Misfortune; but I had some of it above Forty Years ago.

[108]It is said to mostly grow on some Islands of the Archipelago, and one author describes it as Triticum spica multiplici: There is another type of wheat that has many small ears emerging from both sides of the main ear, but this one ripens very late, doesn’t do well here, and isn’t liked by those who have planted it; however, I have found some ears of it by chance among my drilled wheat, which were larger than any common variety. I still haven't been able to get any of the Smyrna Wheat, which I consider a big loss; but I had some over forty years ago.

When Wheat is planted early, less Seed is required than when late; because less of it will die in the Winter than of that planted late, and it has more Time to tiller[109].

When wheat is planted early, you need less seed than when it's planted late; because less of it will die in the winter than the late-planted seed, and it has more time to tiller[109].

[109]To tiller is to branch out into many Stalks, and is the Country Word, that signifies the same with fruticare.

[109]To tiller is to spread out into many Stalks, which is the Country term that means the same as fruticare.

Poor Land should have more Seed than rich Land, because a less Number of the Plants will survive the Winter on poor Land.

Poor land should have more seeds than rich land, because fewer plants will survive the winter on poor land.

The least Quantity of Seed may suffice for rich Land that is planted early; for thereon very few Plants will die; and the Hoe will cause a small Number of Plants to send out a vast Number of Stalks, which will have large Ears; and in these, more than in the Number of Plants, consists the Goodness of a Crop[110].

The smallest amount of seed might be enough for fertile land that is planted early; because with that, very few plants will die. The hoe will encourage a few plants to produce a lot of stalks, which will have big ears. The quality of a crop depends more on these than on the number of plants.[110]

[110]A too great Number of Plants do neither tiller, nor produce so large Ears, nor make half so good a Crop, as a bare competent Number of Plants will.

[110]A too many plants neither tiller, nor produce large ears, nor yield as good a crop as a reasonable number of plants will.

Another thing must be consider’d, in order to find the just Proportion of Seed to plant; and that is, that some Wheat has its Grains twice as big as other Wheat of the same Sort; and then a Bushel[111] will contain but half the Number of Grains; and one Bushel of Small-grain’d Wheat will plant as much Ground as Two Bushels of the Large-grain’d; for, in Truth, ’tis not the Measure of the Seed, but the Number of the Grains, to which respect ought to be had in apportioning the Quantity of it to the Land.

Another thing to consider in order to find the right ratio of seed to plant is that some wheat has grains that are twice as large as other wheat of the same type. Therefore, a bushel[111] will only contain half the number of grains. One bushel of small-grained wheat will plant as much land as two bushels of large-grained wheat. The key factor is not the volume of the seed but the number of grains, which should be taken into account when determining how much seed to allocate to the land.

[111]Our Bushel contains Seventy Pounds of the best Wheat.

[111]Our Bushel has Seventy Pounds of the finest Wheat.

[106]

[106]

Some have thought, that a large Grain of Wheat would produce a larger Plant than a small Grain; but I have full Experience to the contrary. The small Grain, indeed, sends up its first single Blade in Proportion to its own Bulk, but afterwards becomes as large a Plant, as the largest Grain can produce[112], cæteris paribus.

Some people believe that a larger grain of wheat would yield a bigger plant than a smaller grain, but I have experienced otherwise. The small grain does indeed put up its first single blade in relation to its own size, but later it grows into a plant as large as one from the biggest grain can produce[112], cæteris paribus.

[112]Farmers in general know this, and choose the thinnest, smallest-grained Wheat for Seed; and therefore prefer that which is blighted and lodged, and that which grows on new-broken Ground, and is not fit for Bread; not only because this thin Wheat has more Grains in a Bushel; but also because such Seed is least liable to produce a smutty Crop, and yet brings Grains as large as any.

[112]Farmers generally understand this and select the thinnest, smallest-grained wheat for seed. They prefer what is damaged and lodged, as well as what grows in recently tilled land and is unsuitable for bread. This is not only because this thin wheat has more grains per bushel, but also because such seed is less likely to result in a smutty crop, yet still produces grains as large as any.

I myself have had as full Proofs of this as can possibly be made in both Respects.

I have had as much proof of this as anyone could have in both aspects.

’Twas from such small Seed that my drill’d Lammas Wheat produced the Ears of that monstrous Length described in this Chapter. I never saw the like, except in that one Year; and the Grains were large also.

It was from such a small seed that my drilled Lammas wheat produced the ears of that incredible length mentioned in this chapter. I’ve never seen anything like it, except for that one year; and the grains were large too.

And as full Proofs have I seen of thin Seed-wheat escaping the Smut, when plump large grain’d Seed of the same Sort have been smutty.

And I have seen clear evidence that this thin seed wheat can avoid smut, while the plump, large-grained seeds of the same type have been affected by it.

Six Gallons of middle-siz’d Seed we most commonly drill on an Acre; yet, on rich Land planted early, Four Gallons may suffice; because then the Wheat will have Roots at the Top of the Ground before Winter, and tiller very much, without Danger of the Worms, and other Accidents, that late-planted Wheat is liable to.

We usually plant six gallons of medium-sized seeds per acre; however, on fertile land planted early, four gallons may be enough. This is because the wheat will develop roots close to the surface before winter and will tiller a lot without the risk of pests and other issues that late-planted wheat faces.

If it is drill’d too thick, ’twill be in Danger of falling; if too thin, it may happen to tiller so late in the Spring, that some of the Ears may be blighted; yet a little thicker or thinner does not matter.

If it's packed too tightly, it could be at risk of collapsing; if it's too loose, it might start growing late in the Spring, causing some of the Ears to be damaged; however, being a little thicker or thinner isn't a big deal.

As to the Depth, we may plant from half an Inch, to three Inches deep; if planted too deep, there is more Danger of its being eaten off by Worms, betwixt the Grain and the Blade[113]; for as that[107] Thread is the Thread of Life during the Winter (if not planted early), so the longer the Thread is, the more Danger will there be of the Worms[114].

As for the depth, we can plant from half an inch to three inches deep; if planted too deep, there's a greater risk of it being eaten by worms, between the grain and the blade[113]; because that[107] thread is the lifeline during the winter (if not planted early), so the longer the thread is, the more risk there will be of worms[114].

[113]A Wheat plant, that is not planted early, sends out no Root above the Grain before the Spring; and is nourish’d all the Winter by a single Thread, proceeding from the Grain up to the Surface of the Ground.

[113]A Wheat plant that isn't planted early doesn't send out any roots above the grain before spring and is sustained all winter by a single thread that extends from the grain up to the surface of the ground.

[114]Because the Worms can more easily find a Thread, that extends by its Length to five or six Inches Depth, than one which reaches but One Inch; and besides, the Worms in Winter do not inhabit very near the Surface of the Ground; and therefore also miss the short Threads, and meet with the long ones.

[114]Because worms can find a thread that goes down five or six inches more easily than one that only reaches one inch; also, in winter, worms don’t live very close to the surface of the ground; that's why they miss the short threads and encounter the long ones.

’Tis a necessary Caution to beware of the Rooks[115], just as the Wheat begins to peep; for before[108] you can perceive it to be coming up, they will find it, and dig it up to eat the Grain; therefore you must keep them off for a Week or Ten Days; and in that time the Blade will become green, and the Grain so much exhausted of its Flour, that the Rooks think it not worth while to dig after it.

It’s important to be careful of the rooks[115] as the wheat starts to sprout. Before you even notice it coming up, they will find it and dig it up to eat the grains. So, you need to keep them away for a week or ten days. During that time, the shoots will turn green, and the grains will lose enough of their flour that the rooks won’t think it’s worth digging for anymore.

[115]’Tis true, that Wheat which is planted early enough for its Grain to be unfit for the Rooks, before the Corn that is left on the Ground at Harvest is either all eaten by them, or by Swine, or else grow’d, plowed in, or otherwise spoiled, is in no Danger: but as this sometimes happens soon after Harvest, the Time of which is uncertain, a timely Care is necessary.

[115]It’s true that wheat planted early enough will have its grain unfit for the crows before the leftover corn at harvest is either eaten by them, by pigs, or has grown, been plowed under, or otherwise ruined, and is not at risk: however, since this can sometimes occur shortly after harvest, which is unpredictable, timely care is essential.

Many are the Contrivances to fright the Rooks; viz. To dig an Hole in the Ground, and stick Feathers therein; to tear a Rook to Pieces, and lay them on divers Parts of the Field: This is sometimes effectual; but Kites or other Vermin soon carry away those Pieces. Hanging up of dead Rooks is of little Use; for the living will dig up the Wheat under the dead ones. A Gun is also of great Use for the Purpose; but unless the Field in Time of Danger be constantly attended, the Rooks will at one Time or other of the Day do their Work, and you may attend often, and yet to no Purpose; for they will do great Damage in your Absence.

There are many ways to scare away the rooks: for example, you can dig a hole in the ground and stick feathers in it; or you can tear a rook into pieces and spread them around different parts of the field. Sometimes this works, but kites or other scavengers quickly carry away the remains. Hanging up dead rooks isn’t very effective either, as the living ones will just dig up the wheat underneath them. A gun can also be helpful for this purpose, but unless the field is watched consistently during times of danger, the rooks will come and do their damage at some point during the day. You might watch frequently, yet it could still be in vain, as they will cause significant damage while you’re away.

The only Remedy that I have found infallible is a Keeper (a Boy may serve very well) to attend from Morning until Night; when he sees Rooks either flying over the Field, or alighted in it, he halloos, and throws up his Hat, or a dead Rook, into the Air: upon which they immediately go off; and ’tis seldom that any one will alight there: They, finding there is no Rest for them, seek other Places for their Prey, wherein they can feed more undisturbed.

The only solution I've found that works every time is having a Keeper (a boy can do the job well) to watch over the field from morning until night. When he sees rooks either flying over or landing in the field, he shouts and throws his hat or a dead rook into the air. This causes them to immediately leave, and it's rare for any of them to land there again. Realizing there's no place to settle, they search for other areas to hunt where they can feed in peace.

This was the Expedient I made use of for preserving my present Crop: It succeeded so well, that in Sixscore Acres, I believe there is not Two-pence Damage done by the Rooks; but I had two Boys (one at Four-pence, and the other at Three-pence a Day) to attend them; because my Wheat is on Two Sides of my Farm; the whole Expence was about Twenty Shillings. The Damage I received by Rooks the last Year in a Field of Seventeen Acres, was more than would have, in this manner, preserved my whole Crops for Twenty Years running. I wish I could as easily defend my Wheat against Sheep, which are to me a more pernicious Vermin than the Rooks.

This was the method I used to protect my current crop: it worked so well that in sixty acres, I believe there’s not even two pence worth of damage from the crows. I had two boys (one for four pence and the other for three pence a day) to keep an eye on them, since my wheat is on two sides of my farm. The total cost was about twenty shillings. The damage I suffered from crows last year in a field of seventeen acres was more than would have covered protecting my entire crop for twenty years. I wish I could defend my wheat just as easily against sheep, which I find to be a more harmful pest than the crows.

But the Rooks do not molest Wheat that is planted before or a little after St. Michael; for then there remains Corn enough in the Fields, which is left at Harvest above-ground, that Rooks prefer always before Corn which must cost them the Labour of digging to find it.

But the Rooks don’t bother the Wheat that’s planted before or shortly after St. Michael; because at that time, there’s plenty of Corn left in the Fields after Harvest, which Rooks always prefer to Corn that they have to dig for.

Of Partitions.

I have now intirely left out the middle Row for Wheat, and keep only to the double Row, for the following Reasons.

I have completely removed the middle row for wheat and am sticking only to the double row for the following reasons.

It makes the cleansing from Weeds more difficult, than when there is only a double Row.

It makes it harder to clear out Weeds than when there's just a double row.

The Hand-hoe cannot give near so much Nourishment (i. e. pulverize so much Earth) in Two Seven-inch Partitions, as it can in One Ten-inch Partition.

The hand hoe can’t break up as much soil in two seven-inch sections as it can in one ten-inch section.

There is Four Inches less Earth to be pulveriz’d by the Horse-hoe from the Surface of a Ridge that has Two Seven-inch Partitions, than from a Ridge that hath One Ten-inch Partition.

There are four inches less soil to be broken up by the hoe from the surface of a ridge that has two seven-inch divisions than from a ridge that has one ten-inch division.

The Ridge must be almost twice as deep in Mould for the treble as for the double Row, or else the middle Row will be very weak and poor; and then, according to the Principles, the whole Ridge will be more exhausted, than by an equal Product produced by strong Plants.

The Ridge needs to be nearly twice as deep in Mould for the treble compared to the double Row, or else the middle Row will be really weak and not good. Then, based on the Principles, the entire Ridge will be more depleted than if it produced the same amount from strong Plants.

As the Ridges may be much lower that have only the one Partition, so the Intervals may be narrower, and yet have as much Earth in them to be pulveriz’d, as in wide ones that are betwixt treble Rows; because the Four Inches that are in the two Partitions more than in the single Partition, being on the Top of[109] the Ridge, may have more Mould under them than Eight Inches on the Side of a Ridge; and the Four Inches, being in the Partitions, lose the Benefit of Horse-hoeing.

Since the ridges can be much lower with just one partition, the spaces in between can be narrower, yet still contain as much soil to be worked as those in wider gaps between triple rows. This is because the four extra inches in the two partitions, compared to a single partition, are at the top of[109] the ridge and may have more soil underneath than eight inches on the side of a ridge. Additionally, the four inches in the partitions miss out on the advantage of horse-hoeing.

Instead of using the middle Row as an Alloy, ’tis better to plant such Sorts of Wheat as do not require any Alloy to the double Row; and these are the White-cone, and above all other Sorts the right Smyrna.

Instead of using the middle Row as a blend, it's better to plant wheat varieties that don't need any blend with the double Row; these include the White-cone and especially the true Smyrna.

The White-cone Wheat must not be reaped so green as the Lammas Wheat may; for if it is not full-ripe, it will be difficult to thresh it clean out of the Straw.

The White-cone Wheat shouldn't be harvested as green as the Lammas Wheat can be; because if it's not fully ripe, it will be hard to separate it cleanly from the Straw.

It happened once that my White-cone being planted early, and being very high, the Blade and Stalk were kill’d in the Winter; and yet it grew high again in the Spring, and had then the same Fortune a Second time; it lay on the Ridges like Straw, but sprung out anew from the Root, and made a very good Crop at Harvest: Therefore, if the like Accident should happen, the Owner needs not be frighted at it.

It once happened that my White-cone was planted early and grew very tall, but the blade and stalk were killed off in the winter. However, it grew tall again in the spring and faced the same fate a second time. It lay flat on the ridges like straw but then sprang back up from the root and produced a great crop at harvest. Therefore, if a similar situation occurs, the owner doesn’t need to be worried about it.

One thing that made Six-feet Ridges seem at first necessary, was the great Breadth of the Two Partitions (which were Eight Inches apiece), which, together with the Earth left on each Side of the treble Row not well cleansed by Hand-work, made Two large whole Furrows, at the first Plowing for the next Crop, that could not be broken by Harrows: These Two strong Furrows, being turned to the Two Furrows that are in the middle of a narrow Interval, for making a new Ridge, would cover almost all the pulveriz’d Earth, not leaving room betwixt the Two whole Furrows for the Drill to go in. But now the single Partition, and the Earth left by the Hoe-Plough, on the Outsides of the double Row, making Two narrow Furrows, and the one Partition being cleansed, and deeper Hand-ho’d than those of the treble Row were, or could be, are easily broken by the[110] Harrows; for, besides their Narrowness, they have no Roots to hold their Mould together, except the Wheat-roots, which, being small and dead, have not Strength enough to hold it; and therefore that Necessity of such broad Ridges now ceases along with the treble Row.

One thing that initially made six-feet ridges seem necessary was the wide spacing of the two partitions (which were eight inches each). This, along with the soil left on each side of the three-row setup that wasn’t properly cleaned by hand, created two large, solid furrows during the first plowing for the next crop that couldn’t be broken up by harrows. These two strong furrows, when turned to the two furrows in the middle of a narrow gap to form a new ridge, would cover almost all the pulverized soil, leaving no room between the two solid furrows for the drill to fit in. But now, the single partition and the soil left by the hoe-plow on the outside of the double row create two narrow furrows, and the one partition is cleaned better and dug deeper by hand than those of the three-row setup ever were or could be. They can easily be broken up by the harrows because, besides being narrow, there are no roots to hold the soil together except the wheat roots, which are small and dead and don’t have enough strength to hold it. Therefore, the need for such wide ridges is no longer necessary along with the three-row method.

When the Two narrow fragile Furrows are harrowed, and mixed with the pulveriz’d Earth of the Intervals, the Roots of the Wheat will reach it; and it is no Matter whether the Crop be drill’d after Two Plowings, in which Case the Row will stand on the very same Place whereon the Row stood the precedent Year, or whether it be drill’d after One or Three Plowings; and then the Rows will stand on the Middle of the last Year’s Intervals.

When the two narrow, delicate furrows are plowed and mixed with the finely crushed soil of the gaps between, the roots of the wheat will reach it. It doesn't matter if the crop is planted after two plowings, in which case the rows will be in the exact spots where they were last year, or if it's planted after one or three plowings; in that case, the rows will be centered in the gaps from last year's crop.

I cannot prescribe precisely the most proper Width of all Intervals; because they should be different in different Circumstances. In deep rich Land they may be a little narrower than in shallow Land.

I can’t specify exactly the best width for all intervals because they should vary depending on the situation. In deep, fertile land, they can be a bit narrower than in shallow land.

There must be (as has been said) a competent Quantity of Earth in them to be pulveriz’d; and, when the Soil is rich, the less will suffice.

There has to be a sufficient amount of earth in them to be ground up; and when the soil is rich, less will be needed.

Never let the Intervals be too wide to be Horse-hoed at Two Furrows, without leaving any Part unplowed in the Middle of them, when the Furrows are turned towards the Rows.

Never let the gaps be too wide to be hoed at two furrows, without leaving any part unplowed in the middle of them, when the furrows are turned towards the rows.

Some Ploughmen can plow a wider Furrow than others, that do not understand the letting of the Hoe-Plough so well, can.

Some plowmen can furrow wider than others who don't understand how to handle the hoe-plow as well.

By making the Plank of the Hoe-plough shorter, and the Limbers more crooked, we can now hoe in narrower Intervals than formerly, without doing any Damage to the Wheat.

By shortening the beam of the hoe-plough and making the limbers more curved, we can now hoe in narrower spaces than before, without harming the wheat.

I now choose to have Fourteen Ridges on an Acre, and one only Partition of Ten Inches on each of them. This I find answers all the Ends I purpose. If the Partitions are narrower, there is not sufficient room in them for the Hand-hoe to do its work effectually;[111] if wider, too much Earth will lose the Benefit of the Horse-hoe.

I now decide to have fourteen furrows per acre, with only a ten-inch gap between each of them. I find this works for all my purposes. If the gaps are narrower, there isn't enough space for the hand hoe to do its job effectively; if they are wider, too much soil will miss out on the benefits of the horse hoe.[111]

The poorer the Soil is, the more Pulveration will be necessary to it.

The poorer the soil is, the more it needs to be broken up.

When a great Season of Wheat is drill’d, it cannot be expected that much of it can be plowed dry, tho’ it is advantageous when there happens an Opportunity for doing it; but by long Experience I find, that in most of my Lands it does very well, when plowed in a moderate Temper of Moisture.

When a large crop of wheat is sown, it shouldn’t be expected that a lot of it can be plowed dry, although it’s beneficial when there’s a chance to do so. However, from long experience, I’ve found that in most of my fields, it does quite well when plowed with a moderate level of moisture.

It may not be amiss to harrow it once after it is drill’d, which will, in some Measure, disappoint the Rooks; besides covering the Wheat, if, perchance, any should miss being covered by the Drill-harrow.

It might be a good idea to plow it again after it’s drilled, which will, to some extent, deter the crows; plus, it helps to cover the wheat in case any seeds end up uncovered by the drill-harrow.

But these, and all Harrows that go on a Ridge, both before and after it is drill’d, should be very light, and fastened together in the common Manner; except that the Pole must be fastened to each Harrow in two Places; which keeps them both as level as if they were One single Harrow: Otherwise the Ridges would be too sharp at the Top, and the Partitions would lie higher than the Rows, and some of their Earth would be apt to fall on the Rows when it is Hand-hoed.

But these, and all harrows that go on a ridge, both before and after it's drilled, should be very light and connected together in the usual way; except that the pole must be attached to each harrow in two places, which keeps them both as level as if they were one single harrow. Otherwise, the ridges would be too sharp at the top, and the partitions would sit higher than the rows, causing some of their soil to fall on the rows when it's hand-hoed.

By Means of this level Harrowing, there is left an open Furrow in the Middle of the Interval, which much facilitates the First Horse-hoeing.

By this method of Harrowing, there is an open groove left in the middle of the space, which makes the first horse-hoeing much easier.

But when, after a Crop is taken off, the Ridges are plowed twice, as they may be where the one Partition hath been well Hand-ho’d; ’tis better to harrow the first-made Ridges in the common Manner; because then some of the fine Earth, that is harrow’d down, will reach to the middle of the Intervals whereon the Ridges are to be made for Drilling: Or if there should be time for plowing thrice, the Ridges of the First and Second Plowings are to be harrow’d in the common Manner also.

But when a crop is harvested, if the ridges are plowed twice, as can happen when the sections have been properly hand-weeded, it's better to harrow the first-made ridges in the usual way. This way, some of the fine soil that's harrowed down will fill in the spaces between the ridges where new ones will be made for planting. If there's enough time to plow three times, the ridges from the first and second plowings should also be harrowed in the usual way.

[112]

[112]

The Harrowing of Ridges must never be cross-ways, unless they are to be made level for Cross-plowing, in order to lay out the Ridges of a Breadth different to what they were of before.

The Harrowing of Ridges must never be done at an angle, unless it's to make them even for Cross-plowing, to create Ridges of a different width than they were before.

When you perceive the Ridges are too high, harrow them lower by the described manner of Harrowing; first with the heavy Harrows for harrowing out the Stubble, and then with light ones, which may be often, for making the Earth on the Ridges the finer for Drilling, without throwing much of it down; frequent Harrowings in this manner, not being injurious like too much Harrowing on level Ground, which is sometimes trodden as hard as the Highway by the Cattle that draw the Harrows; for in harrowing these Ridges, the Beast draws the Two Harrows, and always treads in the Furrow between them where there is none or very little Mould to tread on.

When you notice that the ridges are too high, lower them using the method described for harrowing. Start with the heavy harrows to break up the stubble, and then switch to lighter ones, which can be used more frequently to refine the soil on the ridges for drilling, without disturbing too much of it. Frequent harrowing this way isn’t harmful, unlike excessive harrowing on flat ground, which can become as compacted as a highway due to the cattle pulling the harrows. When harrowing the ridges, the animal pulls two harrows and always steps in the furrow between them, where there’s little to no soil to compact.

The Price of Hand-hoeing of these double Rows is a Peny for thirty Perches in Length of Row, which amounts to between Eighteen and Nineteen Pence for an Acre.

The cost of hand-hoeing these double rows is one penny for thirty perches in length of row, which adds up to between eighteen and nineteen pence for an acre.

I should say, that in Hand-hoeing the Earth must never be turned towards the Wheat; for, if it were, it might crush it when young; neither could the Partition be clean hoed.

I should say that when hand-hoeing, the earth should never be turned towards the wheat; if it is, it could crush the young plants, and the partition wouldn't be properly hoed.

The Hand-hoes for hoeing the Ten-inch Partition have their Edges Seven Inches long; they are about Four Inches deep from the Handle; if they were deeper, they would be too weak; for they must be thin, and well steeled. The Labourers pay for them, and keep them in Order, for their own Use.

The hand hoes for working the ten-inch partition have edges that are seven inches long; they are about four inches deep from the handle. If they were deeper, they would be too weak because they need to be thin and well-steeled. The laborers pay for them and keep them in good condition for their own use.

These Hoes must not cut out any Part of the Two Rows, nor be drawn through them, as the Four-inch Hoes sometimes may through the treble Rows.

These hoes must not remove any part of the two rows or be dragged through them, unlike the four-inch hoes, which can sometimes be used through the triple rows.

If I am taxed with Levity in changing my treble Rows for double ones, it will not appear to be done of a sudden. In p. 132. I advised the Trial of both[113] Sorts: And now, upon fuller Experience, I find the double Rows much preferable to the treble, especially for Wheat.

If I'm criticized for switching my triple rows to double ones, it won't seem like it happened overnight. On page 132, I recommended trying both types: and now, after more experience, I find that double rows are much better than triple ones, especially for wheat.

When Gentlemen saw the middle Row on low Ridges so much inferior to the outside Rows, they were convinced of the Effect of deep Hoeing; for they said, there was no other Reason for this so visible a Difference, except the outside Rows standing nearer to the pulveriz’d Intervals than the middle Row did.

When the men noticed that the middle row on low ridges was so much worse than the outside rows, they were convinced of the impact of deep hoeing. They said there was no other reason for this clear difference, except that the outside rows were closer to the broken-up soil than the middle row was.

And when on high Ridges the middle Row was nearly or quite as good as one of the outside Rows, I was not convinced, that they were not diminished by the middle Row, as much as the Produce of it amounted to: And this I now find to be the Case; for Four Rows of Oats, without a middle Row, produced somewhat more than the same Number that had a middle Row; Two of which treble Rows were taken on one Side, and Two on the other Side of the double Rows, purposely to make an unexceptionable Trial. And it is, as far as I can judge, the same in Wheat.

And when the middle row on high ridges was nearly as good as one of the outside rows, I wasn't convinced that the middle row didn’t lessen the quality as much as it contributed. I now see this is true; four rows of oats without a middle row produced slightly more than the same number with a middle row. Two of those triple rows were taken from one side, and two from the other side of the double rows, specifically to ensure a fair test. It seems to be the same with wheat, as far as I can tell.

’Tis true, I began my Horse-hoeing Scheme first with double Rows; but then they were different to what they are now; for the first had their Partition uneven, being the parting Space, whereby it was less proper for Hand-hoeing, which I then seldom used, except for absolute Necessity, as to cleanse our Poppies, and the like. The Intervals also were too narrow for constant annual Crops.

It’s true, I started my Horse-hoeing Scheme with double rows, but they were different from what they are now. The first layout had uneven spacing, making it less suitable for hand-hoeing, which I rarely did except when absolutely necessary, like to clean our poppies and similar plants. The gaps were also too narrow for consistent yearly crops.

By all these Three Methods I have had very good Crops; but as this I now describe is the latest, and is (as it ought to be) the best; I publish it as such, without Partiality to my own Opinions; for I think it less dishonourable to expose my Errors, when I chance to detect them, than to conceal them: And as I aim at nothing but Truth, I cannot, with any Satisfaction to myself, suffer any thing of my own[114] knowingly to escape, that is in the lead contrary to it.

Through all three of these methods, I've had really good harvests; but since this one I'm describing is the newest and, as it should be, the best, I'm sharing it as such, without bias toward my own views. I believe it's less shameful to point out my mistakes when I find them than to hide them. Since I'm focused solely on the truth, I can't, with any satisfaction, let anything I've written knowingly go uncorrected if it contradicts that truth.[114]

I have a Piece of Five or Six Acres of Land which I annually plant with boiling Pease, in the very same manner as Wheat; except that the Second Horse-hoeing (which is the last) throws the Earth so far upon the Pease as to make the Two Rows become One. These Pease cannot be planted until after the 25th of March; else Two Horse-hoeings might not be sufficient. The same Drill that plants Wheat plants Pease; only sometimes we change the Spindle for one that has its Notches a little bigger.

I have a piece of land that's about five or six acres, which I plant with boiling peas every year, just like I do with wheat. The only difference is that during the second and final horse-hoeing, the soil gets thrown over the peas so much that the two rows merge into one. These peas can't be planted until after March 25th; otherwise, two horse-hoeing sessions might not be enough. The same drill used for planting wheat works for peas too, though sometimes we swap the spindle for one with slightly bigger notches.

I drill no more Barley, because ’tis not proper to be followed by a Crop of Wheat without a Fallow; for some of the shattered Barley will live over the Winter, and mix with the Wheat in the Rows, and can scarce possibly be thence timely taken out, its first Stalk and Blade being difficult to distinguish from the Wheat; and this is a great Damage to the Sale in the Market; and for the same Reason I plant no more Oats.

I no longer plant Barley because it's not right to follow it up with a Wheat crop without letting the land rest first. Some of the leftover Barley will survive the winter and mix in with the Wheat, and it's really hard to remove it in time since the first stalk and blade are hard to tell apart from Wheat. This causes a big loss when selling in the market, and for the same reason, I also don’t plant Oats anymore.

The First Hoeing is performed by turning a Furrow from the Row.

The First Hoeing is done by turning a furrow away from the row.

We are not so exact as to the Weather in the First Hoeing; for if the Earth be wet, the Hoe-plough may go nearer to the Row, without burying the Wheat; and the Frost of the Winter will pulverize that Part of the[116] Furrow, which is to be thrown to the Wheat in the Spring, altho’ it was hoed wet.

We aren't very precise about the weather during the first hoeing because if the ground is wet, the hoe can get closer to the row without burying the wheat. Also, the winter frost will break up that part of the [116] furrow that will be turned to the wheat in the spring, even if it was hoed when wet.

[116]The Word Furrow signifies the Earth that is thrown out, as well as the Trench from whence it is thrown by the Plough.

[116]The word "furrow" refers to the dirt that is turned up, as well as the trench from which it is turned up by the plow.

Neither is it necessary to be very exact as to Time; but it must never be till the Wheat has more than One Blade; and it may be soon enough, when it has Four or Five Leaves, so that it is done before[117], or in the Beginning of Winter.

Neither is it necessary to be very precise about timing; but it should never be until the wheat has more than one blade; and it could be soon enough when it has four or five leaves, so that it is done before[117], or at the beginning of winter.

[117]But if the Wheat is planted very late, it may not be hoeable before the Winter is past; nor is there such a Necessity of hoeing the late planted before the great Frosts are over, as there is of the early-planted; for the later ’tis planted, the less time the Earth has to subside, and grow hard.

[117]But if the wheat is planted too late, it might not be hoeable before winter is over; and there’s not as much need to hoe late-planted crops before the big frosts are done as there is for the early-planted ones. The later it's planted, the less time the soil has to settle and harden.

Note, By Winter we do not mean only those Months that are properly so reckoned, but also such other Months as have hard Frosts in them, as January, February, and sometimes the Beginning of March.

Note: By Winter, we’re not just talking about the months typically considered Winter, but also any other months that experience harsh frosts, such as January, February, and sometimes the start of March.

[115]

[115]

The greatest Fault you can commit in Hoeing, is the First Time, when the Furrow is turned from the Row, not to go near enough to it, nor deep enough. You cannot then go too near it, unless you plow it out, or bury it with Mould, and do not uncover it; nor too deep, unless you go below the Staple of the Ground.

The biggest mistake you can make when hoeing is the first time you turn the furrow away from the row. You need to get close enough and deep enough. You can't get too close unless you completely turn it over or cover it with soil, and you shouldn't leave it exposed; you also shouldn't go too deep unless you dig below the ground's foundation.

Servants are apt to hoe too far from the Rows, going backwards and forwards, in the Middle of the Intervals, without coming near the Rows: This loses most of the Benefit of Hoeing, and is very injurious to the present Crop, and also to the Two succeeding Crops; for then there will be a Deficiency of pulverized Earth; and nobody can suppose, that the hoed Earth can be of any Benefit to the Rows, before the Roots reach into it; and when ’tis far off, few of the Roots reach it at all; and those that do reach, come there too late to bring the Plants to their full Perfection: Therefore, if the First Furrow was not near enough, nor deep enough, plow a Second Furrow at the Bottom of the former, which will go deeper than the First, and break the Earth more; besides taking away from the Rows such unmoved Ground, which the First Plowing may possibly have missed. If this can’t be conveniently done soon after the First Hoeing, do it before the Ridge is turned back in the Spring.

Servants tend to hoe too far from the rows, moving back and forth, in the middle of the gaps, without getting close to the rows. This wastes most of the benefits of hoeing, and it’s really harmful to the current crop and the two crops that follow. There will end up being a lack of loosened soil, and it’s unreasonable to think that the tilled soil will benefit the rows until the roots reach it. When it’s too far away, very few roots make it there at all, and those that do, arrive too late to help the plants reach their full potential. So, if the first furrow wasn’t close enough or deep enough, plow a second furrow at the bottom of the first one, making it deeper and breaking up the soil more. This will also remove any compacted ground that the first plowing might have missed. If this can't be done easily soon after the first hoeing, make sure to do it before the ridge is turned back in the spring.

Always leave the Furrows turned up, to make[118] Ridges in the Middle of the Intervals during the[116] Winter; and then the hollow Furrows, or Trenches next the Rows, being enriched by the Frost[119] and Rains[120], the Wheat will have the Benefit of them earlier in the Spring, than if the Trenches had been left open in the Middle of the Intervals.

Always leave the furrows turned up to create ridges in the middle of the intervals during the[116] winter. This way, the hollow furrows or trenches next to the rows will be enriched by the frost and rains, allowing the wheat to benefit from them earlier in the spring compared to if the trenches had been left open in the middle of the intervals.

[118]Tho’ the Ridge in the Middle of the Interval should, for Want of sufficient Mould, or otherwise, be too low to give Shelter, yet there is generally some Earth falls to the Left of the Hoe-plough, and lodges upon that Part which is left on the Outside of the Row; which, notwithstanding that Part be very narrow (as suppose Two or Three Inches), yet a small Quantity of Earth lying thereon, so near to the outside Row, gives an extraordinary Shelter to the young Wheat plants that grow in it.

[118]Even if the ridge in the middle of the field is too low to provide enough shelter due to a lack of adequate soil, there's usually some dirt that falls to the left of the hoe-plow and settles on the outside of the row. Although that area might be quite narrow—let's say just two or three inches—a small amount of dirt there, so close to the outer row, offers significant protection to the young wheat plants that are growing in it.

Shelter is a great Benefit to Wheat; but yet Nourishment is more: for in the Winter I see the Wheat-plants upon the most exposed Part of the Ridge flourish, when single Plants in the Bottom of the Furrow are in a very poor languishing Condition, without any Annoyance of Water, they being upon a Chalk Bottom.

Shelter is a big advantage for wheat, but nourishment is even more important. In the winter, I notice that wheat plants on the most exposed part of the ridge thrive, while individual plants at the bottom of the furrow struggle and look unhealthy, even though they aren’t affected by water issues since they’re on chalky soil.

[119]Frost, if it does not kill the Wheat, is of great Benefit to it; Water or Moisture, when it is frozen in the Earth, takes up more Room than in its natural State; this Swelling of the Ice (which is Water congealed) must move and break the Earth wherewith it is mixt; and when it thaws, the Earth is left hollow and open, which is a kind of Hoeing to it. This Benefit is done chiefly to and near the Surface; consequently the more Surface there is, by the Unevenness of the Land, the more Advantage the Soil has from the Frost.

[119]Frost, if it doesn’t kill the wheat, is actually beneficial to it; when water or moisture freezes in the ground, it takes up more space than it does in its liquid state. This expansion of ice (which is frozen water) causes the earth mixed with it to move and break apart; and when it thaws, the ground is left loose and open, sort of like tilling. This benefit mainly happens close to the surface; therefore, the more surface area there is due to the unevenness of the land, the more the soil gains from the frost.

This is another very great Use of the Ridge left in the Middle of the Interval during the Winter; because that Ridge, and its Two Furrows, contain Four Times as much Surface as when level. This thus pulverized Surface, turned in in the Spring hoeing, enriches the Earth, in proportion to its Increase of internal Superficies, and likewise proportionably nourishes the Plants, whose Roots enter it; and that Part of it wherein they do not enter, must remain more enriched for the next Crop, than if the Soil had remained level all the Winter.

This is another great benefit of leaving the Ridge in the middle of the field during winter. The Ridge and its two furrows have four times the surface area compared to when it's flat. This broken-up surface, turned in during spring tilling, enriches the soil due to its increased internal surface area and also nourishes the plants whose roots dig into it. Additionally, the areas where the roots don’t reach will be richer for the next crop than if the soil had remained flat all winter.

[120]It is a vulgar Error that the Winter Rains do not enrich the Earth; and is only thought so, because we do not see the Effect of them upon Vegetables, for lack of Heat in that Season. But some Farmers have frequently observed, that one half of a Ground plowed up just before Winter has produced a Crop of Barley as much better than the other Part plowed up at the End of Winter, as is the Difference of a Dunging, even when there has been very little Frost.

[120]It's a common misconception that winter rains don't benefit the land; people think this simply because we don't observe their effects on plants due to the lack of warmth during that season. However, some farmers have often noticed that land plowed right before winter produces barley crops significantly better than the part that was plowed at the end of winter, even when there's been very little frost, similar to the difference seen when applying fertilizer.

The outside Rows of Wheat, from which the Earth is hoed off before or in the Beginning of Winter,[117] and left almost bare till the Spring, one would think should suffer by the Frost coming so near them[121], or for want of Pasture: But it appears to be quite contrary; for where the Hoe has gone nearest to a Row, its Plants thrive best: The Earth, which the Frost hath pulverized, being within the Reach of the young short Roots, on that Side of the Row, from the Top to the Bottom of the Trench, nourishes them at first; and before the Plants have much exhausted this, as they grow larger in the Spring, the Ridge from the Middle of the Interval is thrown to them, having a perfectly unexhausted Pasture, to supply their increasing Bulk with more Nourishment.

The outer rows of wheat, which the soil is turned over or prepared before or at the start of winter,[117] and left almost bare until spring, seem like they should be harmed by the frost so close to them, or by lacking pasture. But the reality is quite the opposite; where the hoe has come closest to a row, the plants thrive best. The soil, which the frost has broken up, is reachable by the young short roots on that side of the row, nourishing them from the top to the bottom of the trench at first. And before the plants have depleted this nourishment, as they grow larger in spring, the ridge from the middle of the space is moved to them, providing a completely untouched pasture to supply their growing size with more nutrients.

[121]In very light Land, perhaps, we must not hoe quite so near to the Rows of Wheat, as in strong Land, for fear the Winter should lay the Roots bare, and expose them too much to the Cold; but then we may be sure, that, in this Case, the Roots will reach the Interval at a greater Distance than in strong Land; yet such very light Land is not proper for Wheat.

[121]In very light soil, we might need to avoid hoeing too close to the rows of wheat, unlike in heavier soil, to prevent the winter from exposing the roots and putting them at risk from the cold. However, we can be sure that in this situation, the roots will extend further into the space between the plants than they would in heavier soil; still, such very light soil isn't suitable for growing wheat.

The Row standing as it were on the Brink of this almost perpendicular Ditch, the Water runs off quickly, or doth not enter but a very little Way into this deep Side; so that, the Earth at the Plants being dry, the Frost doth not reach quite to all their Roots to hurt them, tho’ the Distance from the Air to the Roots be very short; and dry Earth doth not freeze as wet doth, neither is this Ditch much exposed to the cold Winds.

The row, positioned right at the edge of this nearly vertical ditch, allows the water to flow away quickly, or it barely seeps into this deep side at all. Because of this, the soil around the plants stays dry, which means the frost doesn’t fully reach their roots to damage them, even though the distance from the air to the roots is quite small. Plus, dry soil doesn’t freeze like wet soil does, and this ditch isn’t very exposed to cold winds.

The Spring-hoeing is performed after the great Frosts are past, and when the Weather will allow it; and then turn[122] the Ridge from[123] the Middle of[118] the Interval, to the Rows on each Side by Two Furrows as near as can be, without covering the Wheat; in doing which have regard to the Row only, without looking at the Middle of the Interval; for ’tis no matter if a little Earth be left there; the next Hoeing, or the next save one[124], will move it.

The spring hoeing happens after the heavy frosts are over and the weather is suitable for it. Then, turn the ridge from the middle of[118] the space to the rows on each side using two furrows as closely as possible without covering the wheat. While doing this, focus only on the row and not the middle of the space, because it doesn't matter if a bit of soil is left there; the next hoeing, or the one after that, will take care of it.

[122]’Tis an errant Mistake of the Vulgar, when they imagine that the immediate Benefit of fresh Earth to Plants is from that Part which remains uppermost; for ’tis from turning the impregnated pulverized Side downwards, to be fed on by the Roots, that gives the Pabulum or Nourishment of the fresh Earth to Plants: The other Side, being turned upwards, becomes impregnate also in a little time.

[122]It's a common misconception among the uneducated to think that the immediate benefit of fresh soil for plants comes from the top layer. In reality, it's the act of placing the enriched, finely ground side downward for the roots to absorb that provides the nourishment from the fresh soil to the plants. The upper side, when exposed, will also become enriched over time.

[123]But note, that when we see Weeds coming up near the Row in the Spring, we plow again from the Rows (and sometimes can plow within one Inch of the Row) before we turn down the Mould from the Middle of the Interval.

[123]But remember, when we see weeds growing near the rows in the spring, we till the soil again from the rows (and sometimes we can till within one inch of the row) before we turn over the soil from the middle of the space between the rows.

[124]If at the next Hoeing we turn another Furrow towards the Row (which is seldom done), then ’tis the next that moves the remaining Earth, left in the Middle of the Interval: But if the next Hoeing be from the Row (as it generally is), then that covers the Middle of the Interval; and then ’tis the next Hoeing after that, that turns all the Earth clean out of the Middle of the Interval toward the Rows.

[124]If at the next hoeing we turn another furrow towards the row (which rarely happens), then it’s the next that moves the remaining dirt left in the middle of the space. But if the next hoeing is away from the row (which is usually the case), then that covers the middle of the space; and it’s the following hoeing after that which turns all the dirt clean out of the middle of the space towards the rows.

As to how many times Wheat is to be hoed in the Summer, after this Spring Operation, it depends upon the Circumstances[125] and Condition of the Land[126] and Weather[127]; but be the Season as it will, never suffer the Weeds to grow high, nor let any unmoved Earth lie in the Middle of the Intervals long enough to grow hard; neither plow deep near the Rows in the Summer, when the Plants are large[128], but as deep in the Middle of the Intervals[119] as the Staple will allow; turning the Earth towards the Wheat, especially at the last Hoeing, so as to leave a deep, wide Trench in the Middle of each Interval.

In the summer, how many times you should hoe the wheat after the spring work depends on the conditions of the land and the weather. But no matter the season, don’t let the weeds grow too tall, and don’t let any loose soil sit in the middle of the rows long enough to get hard. Also, don’t plow too deep near the rows when the plants are large, but you should plow as deep as the soil allows in the middle of the rows. Turn the soil toward the wheat, especially during the last hoeing, to create a deep, wide trench in the middle of each row.[119]

[125]If the Land was not sufficiently tilled or hoed in the precedent Year, it will require the more Hoeings in the following Year.

[125]If the land wasn't properly tilled or hoed in the previous year, it will need more hoeing in the following year.

[126]The poorer the Land is, the more Hoeings it should have.

[126]The poorer the land is, the more hoeing it needs.

[127]A wet Summer may prevent some of the Hoeings that we should perform in a dry Summer.

[127]A rainy summer might stop us from doing some of the hoeing we should do during a dry summer.

[128]Our Hoeing deep near the Plants, when small, breaks off only the Ends of the Roots; but after the Roots are spread far in the interval, the greatest Part of them, being then on the Right-hand Side of the Hoe plough, might hold fast on that Side, and not be drawn out; and then the whole Roots would be broken off close to the Bodies of the Plants: Therefore at the Second deep Hoeing, that turns a Furrow from the Row in the Summer, we go about Four or Six Inches farther off from the Roots than the time before; but we go nearer or farther off, according to the Distance of Time between those Two Hoeings: Yet we may hoe shallow near to the Plants at any time, without Injury to their Roots, but, on the contrary, it will be advantageous to them.

[128]When we hoe deeply near the young plants, we only break off the tips of the roots. However, once the roots have spread out further in the space between, most of them may get stuck on the right side of the hoe and won’t be pulled out, which causes the entire roots to break off close to the plants. Therefore, during the second deep hoeing, which moves a furrow away from the row in the summer, we work about four to six inches farther from the roots than we did the first time. We adjust this distance based on the time elapsed between the two hoeings. However, we can hoe shallow near the plants at any time without harming their roots; in fact, it will benefit them.

We augment our Wheat-crops Four Ways; not in Number of Plants, but in Stalks, Ears, and Grains.

We enhance our wheat crops in four ways; not by increasing the number of plants, but by boosting the stalks, ears, and grains.

The First is, by increasing the Number of Stalks from One, Two, or Three, to Thirty or Forty to a Plant, in ordinary Field-land.

The first way is by increasing the number of stalks from one, two, or three to thirty or forty per plant in regular farmland.

And we augment the Crop, by bringing up all the Stalks into Ears, which is the Second Way; for, if it be diligently observed, we shall find, that not half[129] the Stalks of sown Wheat come into Ear.

And we increase the crop by causing all the stalks to form ears, which is the second method; because, if we pay close attention, we'll see that not even half of the stalks of sown wheat produce ears.

[129]If a square Yard of sown Wheat be marked out, and the Stalks thereon numbered in the Spring, it will be found, that Nine parts in Ten are missing at Harvest.

[129]If you take a square yard of planted wheat and count the stalks in the spring, you'll find that nine out of ten are gone by harvest time.

I saw an Experiment of this in Rows of Wheat that were equally poor: One of these Rows was increased[130] so much, as to produce more Grains than Ten of the other, by bringing up more of its Stalks into Ears, and also by augmenting its Ears to a much greater Bigness; which is the Third Way: For, whatever Varro means by saying, that the Ears remain Fifteen Days in Vaginis, ’tis pretty plain, that the Ears are formed together with the Stalks, and will be very large, or very small, in proportion to the Nourishment given them[131].

I observed an experiment in wheat fields that were equally poor. One of these rows produced so much more grain than ten of the others by growing more stalks into ears and also by increasing the size of its ears significantly; this is the third method. Whatever Varro means by saying that the ears stay in Vaginis for fifteen days, it's quite clear that the ears form alongside the stalks and will be either very large or very small depending on the nourishment they receive.

[130]These Rows were drilled a Foot asunder, not hoed; and were, by the Shallowness and Wetness of the Soil, very poor in the Spring; and then, by pouring Urine to the Bottom of this Row, it was so vastly increased above the rest.

[130]These rows were spaced a foot apart, not cultivated; and due to the shallow and wet soil, they were very weak in the spring. However, by pouring urine at the bottom of this row, it grew significantly better than the others.

[131]Like as the Vines, if well nourished, bring large Bunches of Grapes; but if ill nourished, they produce few Bunches, and those small ones; and many Claspers are formed, which would have been Bunches, if they had had sufficient Nourishment given them at the proper time.

[131]Just like vines, if properly cared for, produce large clusters of grapes; but if neglected, they yield few clusters, and those are small; and many buds form that could have been clusters if they had received the right care at the right time.

The last and Fourth Way of augmenting the Produce of Wheat-plants, is by causing them to have large and plump Grains in the Ears; and this can no way be so effectually done as by late Hoeing, especially[120] just after the Wheat is gone out of the Blossom; and when such hoed Grains weigh double the Weight of the same Number of unhoed (which they frequently will) tho’ the Number of Grains in the hoed are only equal, yet the hoed Crop must be double.

The last and Fourth Way to increase the yield of wheat plants is by encouraging them to have large and plump grains in the ears. This can be most effectively achieved through late hoeing, especially right after the wheat has finished blooming; and when hoed grains weigh twice as much as the same number of unhoed grains (which often happens), even though the number of grains in the hoed field is the same, the hoed crop will still be double the yield.

Thus, by increasing the Number of Stalks[132], bringing more of them up into Ear[133], making the Ears larger[134], and the Grain plumper, and fuller of Flour[135], the Hoeing Method makes a greater Crop[121] from a Tenth Part of the Plants[136] than the sowing Method can.

Thus, by increasing the number of stalks[132], bringing more of them up into ears[133], making the ears larger[134], and the grain plumper and fuller of flour[135], the hoeing method produces a greater crop[121] from a tenth of the plants[136] than the sowing method can.

[132]The same Plant that, when poor, sends out but Two or Three Tillers, would, if well nourished by the Hoe, or otherwise, send up a Multitude of Tillers, as is seen in hoed Wheat, and sown Wheat.

[132]The same plant that, when lacking nutrients, produces only two or three tillers, would, if well cared for by hoeing or other means, grow a multitude of tillers, as seen in hoe-grown wheat and sown wheat.

[133]Mr. Houghton relates Eighty Ears on one single Plant of Wheat, and a greater Number has been counted lately in a Garden: Those Eighty, reckoned to have Fifty Grains apiece, make an Increase of Four thousand Grains for one; but I have never found above Forty Ears from a single Plant in my Fields; yet there is no doubt, but that every Plant would produce as many as Mr. Houghton’s, of the same Sort, with the same Nourishment; But I should not desire any to be so prolific in Stalks, lest they should fail of bringing such a Multitude of Ears to Perfection. The Four hundred Ears, that I numbered in a Yard, were not weighed, because they were told before ripe; and the greatest Weight of Wheat that ever I had from a Yard, was the Product of about Two hundred and Fifty Ears, and some of them were small.

[133]Mr. Houghton reports seeing eighty ears on a single wheat plant, and even more have been counted recently in a garden. Those eighty ears, each estimated to have fifty grains, could produce up to four thousand grains from one plant; however, I have never found more than forty ears from a single plant in my fields. Still, there’s no doubt that every plant could yield as many as Mr. Houghton's, given they’re the same type and receive the same nourishment. But I wouldn’t want any to be that prolific in stalks if it meant they couldn’t bring that many ears to maturity. The four hundred ears I counted in a yard weren't weighed, as they were counted before they were ripe. The highest weight of wheat I ever got from a yard was from about two hundred and fifty ears, and some of them were small.

[134]I have numbered One hundred and Nine Grains in One Ear of my hoed Cone-wheat of the grey Sort; and One Ear of my hoed Lammas-wheat has been measured to be Eight Inches long, which is double to those of sown Wheat. I have some of these Ears now by me almost as long, the longest being given away as a Rarity; and indeed ’tis not every Year that they grow to that Length, and ’tis always where the Plants are pretty single. But there is no Year wherein One Ear of my hoed does not more than weigh Two of the sown Ears, taking a whole Sheaf of each together without choosing. The Sheaves of the hoed are of a different Shape from the other; almost all the Ears of the hoed are at the Top of the Sheaf; but most of the other are situate at the lower Part, or near the Middle of the Sheaf.

[134]I have counted one hundred and nine grains in one ear of my cultivated gray corn, and one ear of my cultivated Lammas wheat has been measured at eight inches long, which is double the length of those from sown wheat. I have some of these ears with me now that are almost as long, the longest one having been given away as a curiosity; and indeed, it’s not every year that they grow to that length, usually only when the plants are spaced out. But every year, one ear of my cultivated wheat weighs more than two of the sown ears, comparing an entire sheaf of each without picking and choosing. The sheaves of the cultivated wheat have a different shape from the others; almost all the ears of the cultivated wheat are at the top of the sheaf, while most of the others are positioned at the bottom or near the middle of the sheaf.

[135]Seed Cone wheat coming all out at the same Heap, planted all at the same Time, and on Land of the same Sort adjoining near together, the Wheat that was sown produced Grains so small, and that which was drilled so very large, that no Farmer or Wheat-buyer would believe them to be of the same Sort of Wheat, except those who knew it, which were many. One Grain of the drilled weighed Two of the sown, and there was twice the Chaff in an equal Weight of the sown, being both weighed before and after the Wheat was separated from the Chaff.

[135]Seed Cone wheat planted all at once and on the same type of land close together produced grains that were so small from the broadcast method and so large from the drilled method that no farmer or wheat buyer would believe they were the same type, except those who were familiar with it, and there were many. One grain from the drilled method weighed twice as much as one from the broadcast method, and there was twice the amount of chaff in an equal weight of the broadcast wheat, with both being weighed before and after the wheat was separated from the chaff.

[136]The Fact of this nobody can doubt, who has observed the different Products of strong and of weak Plants, how the one exceeds the other.

[136]No one can deny this fact if they've seen the various results of strong and weak plants, and how one surpasses the other.

The greatest Difference of having an equal Crop from a small Number of strong Plants, and from a great Number of weak ones, is, that the Soil is vastly less exhausted by the former than by the latter, not only from the latter’s exhausting more in proportion to their Number when young, and whilst each of them consumes as much Nourishment as each of the small Number; but also from the different Increase that a strong Plant makes by receiving the same Proportion of Food with a weak one: For it appears from Dr. Woodward’s Experiments, that the Plant which receives the least Increase carries off the greatest Quantity of Nourishment in proportion to that Increase; and that ’tis the same with an Animal, all who are acquainted with fatting of Swine know; for they eat much more Food daily for the first Two Weeks of their being put into the Sty, than they do afterwards, when they thrive faster; the fatter they grow, the less they eat.

The biggest difference between getting an equal yield from a small number of strong plants versus a large number of weak ones is that the soil is significantly less depleted by the former than by the latter. This is not only because the weaker plants use up more resources relative to their number when they are young, even though each one consumes the same amount of nutrients as each of the stronger plants; but also because of the different growth rates. A strong plant increases more efficiently when given the same amount of nutrients as a weak one. Dr. Woodward’s experiments show that the plant which grows the least absorbs the highest amount of nutrients relative to its growth. The same principle applies to animals; anyone familiar with fattening pigs knows this well. They consume a lot more food in the first two weeks after being put in the pen than they do later when they grow faster; the fatter they get, the less they eat.

Hence, I think, it may be inferred, that a Plant, which, by never having been robbed or stinted by other Plants, is strong, receives a much greater Increase from an equal Quantity of Food, than a Number of weak Plants (as thick ones are), equalling the Bulk of the single strong Plant, do.

Hence, I believe we can conclude that a plant that has never been deprived or stifled by other plants is stronger and gets much more growth from the same amount of nutrients than several weak plants (like those that are crowded together) that equal the size of the single strong plant do.

And this of the Doctor’s have I seen by my own Observations confirmed in the Field in Potatoes, Turneps, Wheat, and Barley; a following Crop succeeds better after an equal Crop, consisting of a bare competent Number of strong Plants, than after a Crop of thick weak ones, cæteris paribus.

And I have witnessed the Doctor's findings confirmed in the field with potatoes, turnips, wheat, and barley; a succeeding crop performs better after a uniform crop made up of a reasonable number of strong plants than after a crop of dense, weak ones, cæteris paribus.

Thus the hoed Crops, if well managed, consisting of fewer and stronger Plants than the sown Crops of equal Produce, exhaust the Ground less; whereby, and by the much (I had almost said infinitely) greater Pulveration of the Soil, indifferent good Land may, for any thing I have yet seen to the contrary, produce profitable Crops always without Manure, or Change of Species, if the Soil be proper for it in respect of Heat and Moisture; and also as Crops of some Species, by their living longer, by their greater Bulk, or different Constitution, exhaust more than others, respect ought to be had to the Degree of Richness of the Soil, that is to produce each Species: The Sowing and the Hoeing Husbandry differ so much both in Pulveration and Exhaustion, that no good Argument can be drawn from the former against the latter: But tho’ a too great Number of Plants be, upon many Accounts, very injurious to the Crop, yet ’tis best to have a competent Number; which yet needs not be so exact, but that we may expect a great Crop from Twenty, Forty, or Fifty Plants in a Yard of the treble Row, if well managed.

So, well-managed hoed crops, which have fewer and stronger plants compared to sown crops of equal yield, use up the soil less. Because of this, and due to the significantly (I might even say infinitely) greater fine texture of the soil, any reasonably good land can continuously produce profitable crops without fertilizer or changing the species, as long as the soil has the right heat and moisture conditions. Additionally, some crop species tend to deplete the soil more due to their longer lifespan, larger size, or different structure, so consideration should be given to the soil's richness when growing each species. The methods of sowing and hoeing differ significantly in terms of soil texture and depletion, so you can't draw valid comparisons from one to the other. While having too many plants can be harmful to the crop in many ways, it's ideal to have a reasonable number, which doesn’t need to be exact. We can still expect a good yield from twenty, forty, or fifty plants in a triple row, as long as they are managed well.

[122]

[122]

All these Advantages will be lost by those Drillers, who do not overcome the unreasonable Prejudices of the unexperienced, concerning the Width of Intervals.

All these advantages will be lost by those drillers who can't overcome the unreasonable biases of the inexperienced regarding the width of intervals.

In wide Intervals, we can raise a good Crop with less Labour, less Seed, no Dung, no Fallow, but not without a competent Quantity of Earth, which is the least expensive of any thing given to Corn; the Earth of a whole good Acre being but about the Tenth Part of the common Expence; and of indifferent Land, a Twentieth; and such I count that of Five Shillings and Six-pence per Acre.

In wide spaces, we can grow a decent crop with less effort, less seed, no manure, and no fallow periods, but we still need a sufficient amount of soil, which is the least costly factor in growing corn; the soil of a good acre costs only about one-tenth of the usual expenses, and for mediocre land, it's one-twentieth; I consider that to be land costing five shillings and six pence per acre.

The Crop enjoys all the Earth; for betwixt the last Hoeing, and the Harvest, there remains nothing but Space empty of Mould in the Middle of the Intervals.

The Crop takes up all the Earth; because between the last Hoeing and the Harvest, there’s only empty Space without Soil in the Middle of the Gaps.

’Tis an Objection, that great Part of those wide Intervals must be lost[137], because the Wheat-roots do[123-
124]
not reach it; but as we generally turn the Mould towards the Row at the last Hoeings, there is no Part of it above Two Feet distant from even the middle Row, and Seventeen Inches from either of the outside Rows.

It’s a concern that a significant portion of those large gaps will go unused, A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, because the wheat roots don’t reach that deep; however, since we usually turn the soil towards the row during the final hoeings, no part of it is more than two feet away from even the middle row, and just seventeen inches from either of the outer rows.

[137]They do reach through all the Mould (as shall be proved by-and-by); and yet may leave sufficient Pasture behind; because it is impossible for them to come into Contact with all the Mould in One Year; no more than when Ten Horses are put into an Hundred Acres of good Pasture, their Mouths come into Contact with all the Grass to eat it in one Summer, though they will go all over it, as the Vine-roots go all over the Soil of a Vineyard without exhausting it all; because those Roots feed only such a bare competent Quantity of Plants, which do not overstock their Pasture.

[137]They do reach through all the soil (as will be shown shortly); and yet can leave plenty of grazing behind; because it's impossible for them to interact with all the soil in one year; just like when ten horses are put into a hundred acres of good pasture, their mouths can't eat all the grass in one summer, even though they will cover all of it, just as vine roots spread throughout the soil of a vineyard without depleting it all; because those roots only take enough nutrients to sustain a reasonable amount of plants, preventing the pasture from being overgrazed.

The Superficies of the fibrous Roots of a proper Number of Wheat-plants bear a very small Proportion to the Superficies of the fine Parts of the pulverized Earth they feed on in these Intervals; for one cubical Foot of this Earth may, as is shewn in p. 29. have many thousand Feet of internal Superficies: But this is in proportion to the Degree of its Pulveration: and that Degree may be such as is sufficient to maintain a competent Number of Wheat-plants, without over-exhausting the vegetable Pasture, but not sufficient to maintain those, and a great Stock of Weeds besides, without over-exhausting it. And this was plainly seen in a Field of Wheat drilled on Six-feet Ridges, when the South Ends of some of the Ridges, and the North Ends of others, had their Partitions Hand hoed, and cleansed of Weeds, early in the Spring, the opposite Ends remaining full of a small Species of Weeds, called Crow-needles, which so exhausted the whole Intervals of the weedy Part of the Ridges, that the next Year the whole Field being drilled again with Wheat exactly in the Middle of the last Intervals, the following Crop very plainly distinguished how far each Ridge had its Partitions made clean of those small Weeds in the Spring, from the other End where the Weeds remained till full-grown; the Crop of the former was twice as good as that of the latter, even where both were cleansed of Weeds the next Spring. This Crop standing only upon that Part of the Mould, which was farthest from the Rows of the precedent Crop, proves that the Roots, both of the Wheat and Weeds, did enter all the Earth of the former Intervals.

The surface area of the fibrous roots of a certain number of wheat plants is very small compared to the surface area of the fine particles in the powdered earth they draw nutrients from in these spaces. One cubic foot of this earth can have thousands of feet of internal surface area, as shown in p. 29. This is relative to how finely it is ground, and that fineness may be enough to sustain a reasonable number of wheat plants without depleting the soil but not enough to support both those plants and a large number of weeds without exhausting the soil. This was clearly observed in a field of wheat planted in six-foot ridges. Some ridges had their ends on the south side and some on the north side hand-weeded and cleared early in spring, while the opposite ends remained filled with a small type of weed called crow-needles. This weed depleted the soil in the weedy parts of the ridges so much that the following year, when the field was replanted with wheat exactly in the middle of the previous intervals, there was a noticeable difference in the crop, showing how much cleaner each ridge was of those small weeds in the spring compared to the other end where the weeds grew to maturity. The yield from the former was twice as good as that from the latter, even after both were weeded the next spring. This crop grew only on the part of the soil that was farthest from the rows of the previous crop, demonstrating that the roots of both the wheat and the weeds penetrated all the earth of the earlier intervals.

It was also observable, that where the Partitions of Two of the Six-feet Ridges had been in the precedent Year cleansed of Weeds, and those of the adjoining Ridges on each Side of them not cleansed, the Row that was the next Year planted exactly in the Middle of the Interval between those two Ridges, was perceivably better than either of the Two Rows planted in the Intervals on the other Side of each of them: The Reason of which Difference must be, that the Middle of the Interval, that was between the Two cleansed Ridges, was fed on by the Wheat only, and by no Weeds; but the other Two Intervals were fed on by the Wheat on one Side, and by both the Wheat and Weeds on the other Side of each.

It was also noticeable that where the sections of two of the six-foot ridges had been cleared of weeds the previous year, and the adjoining sections on each side had not been cleared, the row planted the following year right in the middle of the gap between those two ridges was noticeably better than either of the two rows planted in the gaps on the other side of each. The reason for this difference must be that the middle of the gap between the two cleared ridges was nourished solely by the wheat, without any weeds, while the other two gaps were nourished by the wheat on one side and by both the wheat and weeds on the other side of each.

There were, in the same Field, several Ridges together, that had the Ends of their Rows of Wheat plowed out by the Hoe-plough, and their other Ends cleansed of Weeds: This was done on purpose, to see what Effect a Fallow would have on the next Crop, which was indeed extraordinary; for these fallowed Ends of the Ridges, being Horse-hoed in the Summer, as the other Ends were, and the Intervals of them made into Ridges, the following Year produced the largest Crop of all; this Crop was received in 1734.

There were several ridges in the same field, with the ends of their wheat rows plowed out using a hoe-plow, and the other ends cleared of weeds. This was done intentionally to see what effect a fallow would have on the next crop, which turned out to be remarkable. The fallowed ends of the ridges were horse-hoed in the summer, just like the other ends, and the spaces between them were turned into ridges. The following year produced the biggest crop of all, which was harvested in 1734.

These several different Managements performed in this Field, shewed by the different Success of the Crops in each Sort, what ought to be done, and which is the best Sort of Management.

These various management methods used in this field demonstrated through the differing success of the crops in each type what should be done and which is the best management approach.

This Field indeed is some of my best Land; and by all the Experiments I have seen on it, I do not find but that, by the best Management, never omitted in any Year, it might produce good annual Crops of Wheat always, without Assistance of Dung or Fallow; but it would be very difficult for me to get Hands to do this to the greatest Perfection, unless I were able constantly to attend them.

This field is definitely some of my best land, and from all the experiments I've conducted on it, I have found that, with the best management consistently every year, it could produce good annual crops of wheat without the need for manure or fallow. However, it would be very challenging for me to find people to do this perfectly unless I could supervise them all the time.

The whole pulverized Earth of the Interval being pretty equally fed on by the former Crop, ’tis no great Matter in what Part of it the following Crop is drill’d: I never drill it but on the Middle of the last Year’s Interval, because there is the Trench whereon the next Year’s Ridge is made with the greatest Conveniency: But there may be some Reason to suspect, that the Plants of the Rows exhaust more Nourishment from that Earth of the Intervals which is farthest from their Bodies, than from that which is nearest to them: Since their fibrous Roots, at the greatest Distance from the Rows, are most numerous, &c. by these the Plants, when they are at their greatest Bulk, are chiefly maintained.

The entire ground of the Interval is equally nourished by the previous Crop, so it doesn't really matter where the next Crop is planted. I always plant it in the middle of last year's Interval because that's where the trench for next year's ridge is most conveniently placed. However, there may be some reason to think that the plants in the rows draw more nutrients from the soil of the Intervals that is farthest away than from the soil closest to them. This is because their fibrous roots, which are most numerous at the greatest distance from the rows, are primarily responsible for supporting the plants when they reach their peak size.

It must be noted, that the above Experiments would not have been a full Proof, if Weeds had been suffered to grow in the Partitions of the Ends of those Ridges, in the Year wherein the Difference appeared. It may also be noted, that a Mixture and Variety of bad Husbandry are useful for a Discovery of the Theory and Practice of good Husbandry.

It should be noted that the experiments mentioned above wouldn't have been conclusive if weeds had been allowed to grow in the partitions at the ends of those ridges during the year when the difference showed up. It's also important to note that a mix and variety of poor farming practices can be helpful for discovering the Theory and Practice of good farming.

And I have plainly proved, that the Roots of Cone-wheat have reached Mould at Two Feet Distance, after passing through another Row at a Foot Distance from it, the Plants being then but Eighteen Inches high, and but half-grown.

And I have clearly shown that the roots of cone wheat have reached soil at a distance of two feet, after passing through another row that was a foot away, with the plants being only eighteen inches tall and not fully grown.

Farmers do not grudge to bestow Three or Four Pounds in the Buying and Carriage of Dung for an Acre; but think themselves undone, if they afford an extraordinary Eighteen-penyworth of Earth to the wide Intervals of an Acre; not considering that Earth is not only the best, but also the cheapest Entertainment[125] that can be given to Plants; for at Five Shillings and Six-pence Rent, the whole Earth belonging to each of our Rows costs only Six-pence, i. e. a Peny for a Foot broad, and Six hundred and Sixty Feet long; that being the Sixty-sixth Part of an Acre[138].

Farmers don’t hesitate to spend three or four pounds on buying and transporting manure for an acre, but feel like they’re wasting money if they pay an extra eighteen pence for soil in the empty spaces of an acre. They don’t realize that soil is not only the best but also the most affordable resource they can provide for plants; because at five shillings and six pence rent, the total cost of the soil for each of our rows is only six pence, meaning a penny for a foot wide and six hundred and sixty feet long, which is the sixty-sixth part of an acre[125]__.

[138]But the Vulgar compute this Expence of a Foot Breadth of Ground, not only as of the Rent, as they ought, but as an Eleventh Part of their own usual Charges added to the Rent.

[138]But the ordinary people calculate this cost of a foot of land not just as its rent, as they should, but by adding an extra one-tenth of their typical expenses to the rent.

And there is Land enough in England to be had, at the Rent of Five Shillings and Six-pence the Acre, that is very proper for Wheat in the Hoeing-Husbandry.

And there is plenty of land in England available for the rent of five shillings and six pence per acre, which is very suitable for growing wheat using hoe farming.

And if for constant annual Wheat-crops you make fewer than Eleven Rows on Four Perches Breadth, you will always increase the Expence of Hoeing; because then Two Furrows will not Hoe One of those Intervals, and you will also thereby lessen the Crops, but improve the Land more: And if you increase that Number of Rows, you will thereby increase every Expence; for there must be Two Furrows to hoe a narrow Interval, and an Increase of the Quantity of Seed, and the Labour in uncovering, weeding, and reaping; and also you will less improve the Land, and lessen the Crops after the First Year.

And if you plant fewer than eleven rows of wheat on four perches of land each year, you'll end up increasing hoeing costs. That's because two furrows won’t be able to hoe one of those gaps, which will reduce your crop yield but improve the soil. If you decide to increase the number of rows, you’ll raise all your expenses. You’ll need two furrows to hoe a narrow gap, plus you'll need more seed and additional labor for uncovering, weeding, and harvesting. This approach will also result in less improvement of the land and a decrease in crop yields after the first year.

If the Intervals are narrower in deep Land, tho’ there might be Mould enough in them, yet there would not be Room to pulverize it.

If the intervals are narrower in deep land, even if there's enough soil in them, there wouldn't be space to break it up.

If narrower in shallow Land, tho’ there were Room, yet there would not be Mould enough in them to be pulverized.

If the shallow land is narrower, even if there's space, there still wouldn't be enough soil in it to be ground down.

The Horse-hoe, well applied, doth supply the Use of Dung and Fallow; but it cannot supply the Use of Earth, tho’ it can infinitely increase the vegetable Pasture of it, by pulverizing it, where it is in a reasonable Quantity: Yet if the Intervals be so narrow, that near all the Earth of them goes to make the Partitions raised at the Top of the Ridges, there will be so little to be pulverized, that you must return to Fallowing,[126] and to the Dung-cart, and to all the old exorbitant Charges[139].

The horse hoe, when used properly, can replace the need for manure and fallow land; however, it can't replace the need for soil, even though it can significantly enhance the plant growth by breaking it up, as long as there's a reasonable amount of it. But if the gaps are so small that almost all the soil is used to create the partitions at the tops of the ridges, there will be barely enough left to be tilled, which means you'll have to go back to fallowing, using manure carts, and all the old expensive methods again.[126]

[139]The Objections against these wide Intervals are only for saving a Penyworth or Two of Earth in each Row, or a few Groats-worth of it in an Acre; by saving of which Earth they may lose, in the present and succeeding Crops, more Pounds.

[139]The objections to these wide spaces are just to save a penny or two worth of soil in each row, or a few pence worth in an acre; but by saving this soil, they might end up losing more money in the current and future crops.

Eight Acres, Part of a Ground of Twenty Acres, drilled with Intervals of Three Feet and an half, brought a good Crop; but the Second Year, not being hoed, the Crop was poor; and the Third Crop made that Land so foul and turfy, that ’twas forced to lie for a Fallow, there being no way to bring it into Tilth without a Summer-plowing[140], when the rest of the same Piece, in wider Intervals, being constantly hoed, continued in good Tilth, and never failed to yield a good Crop, without missing one Year.

Eight acres, part of a twenty-acre field, spaced out with three and a half-foot intervals, produced a good crop; however, the second year, since it wasn't hoed, the yield was poor. By the third year, the land became so overgrown and grassy that it had to be left fallow, as there was no way to cultivate it without summer plowing. Meanwhile, the rest of the same piece, with wider intervals and regularly hoed, remained in good condition and consistently yielded a good crop without fail.

[140]This Narrowness of the Intervals, if the Damage of it be rightly computed, would amount to half the Inheritance of the Land; and was occasioned by the Wilfulness of my Bailiff, who, drilling it upon the Level, ordered the Horse to be guided half a Yard within the Mark, because he fansied the Intervals would be too wide, if he followed my Directions.

[140]This narrowness of the gaps, if assessed correctly, would cost half the inheritance of the land; and it was caused by the stubbornness of my bailiff, who, leveling it out, instructed the horse to be steered half a yard inside the boundary, because he thought the gaps would be too wide if he followed my instructions.

In another Field, there is now a Sixth Crop of Wheat, in wide Intervals, very promising, tho’ this Ground has had no sort of Dung to any of these Crops, or in several Years before them: The last Year’s Crop was the Fifth, and was the best of the Five, tho’ a Yard of the Row yielded but Eighteen Ounces and Three Quarters; and the Third Crop yielded Twenty Ounces Weight[141] of clean Wheat[127] in the same Spot; but ’twas because the Spot where the Twenty grew, was then a little higher than the rest, which in Two Years became more equal; and the thin Land was more deficient in that Third Crop, than the thick Land exceeded the thin in the Fifth Crop.

In another field, there is now a sixth crop of wheat, spaced out well and looking very promising, even though this ground hasn’t had any fertilizer for any of these crops or for several years before them. Last year’s crop was the fifth, and it was the best of the five, though a yard of the row only produced eighteen ounces and three-quarters; the third crop produced twenty ounces of clean wheat in the same spot. However, that was because the area where the twenty grew was a bit higher than the rest at that time, which became more even in two years. The thinner soil was more lacking in that third crop compared to how much the thicker soil surpassed the thin in the fifth crop. [127]

[141]Wheat, before Harvest, standing in Rows with wide Intervals betwixt them, may not seem, to the Eye, to equal a Crop of half the Bigness dispersed all over the Land, when sown in the common Manner; and yet there is more Deceit in the Appearance of those different Crops, whilst they are young, and in Grass: We should therefore not judge of them then by our Imagination, but as we do of the Sun and Moon nigh the Horizon, viz. by our Reason.

[141]Before harvest, wheat standing in rows with wide gaps between them may not look like it would produce as much as a crop that seems twice its size spread out across the land when planted in the usual way. However, the appearance of these different crops when they are young and in the grass can be misleading. We shouldn’t judge them based on our imagination, but rather like we do with the sun and moon near the horizon, that is, with our reasoning.

Imagination often deceives us by Arguments false or precarious; but Reason leads us to Demonstration, by Weights and Measures: Yet this Prejudice will vanish at Harvest before weighing; for then all those wide Intervals that were bare, will be covered with large Ears interfering to hide them quite, and make a finer Appearance than a sown Crop. But ’tis observed, that the Cone-wheat makes the finest Shew, when you look on it length ways of the Rows, both at Harvest, and a considerable time before Harvest.

Imagination often tricks us with false or shaky arguments; but reason guides us to conclusions through facts and evidence. However, this bias will disappear at harvest time when we start weighing things; all those empty spaces will be filled with tall stalks hiding them completely, creating a better appearance than simply sown crops. It’s noted that cone wheat looks the best when viewed along the rows, both at harvest and for a good while before it.

In the thick the Hoe-plough went deeper, and consequently raised more Pasture there; but then it went the shallower in the thin; and when the Land became of a more equal Depth the Fifth Year, the Plough and the Hoe-plough went deeper, all the Piece being taken together; for the Crop could be but in proportion to the different Pasture, allowing somewhat for the more or less Seasonableness of the Year.

In the dense areas, the hoe-plow dug deeper, which created more pasture there; however, it barely scratched the surface in the thinner areas. By the fifth year, as the land became more evenly leveled, both the plow and hoe-plow dug deeper across the entire piece of land. The crop yield could only be proportional to the varying pasture, with a little allowance for the seasonal variations of the year.

The Soil, in this our Case, cannot be supplied in Substance, but from the Atmosphere. The Earth which the Rain brings can do it alone, if it fall in great Quantity; for by Water, ’tis plain, the Earth which nourished Helmont’s Tree was supplied; for the Tin-cover of the Box wherein it stood, prevented the Dews from entering.

The soil in this case can't be provided in substance, but rather from the atmosphere. The earth that the rain brings can manage it on its own if it falls in large amounts; because, obviously, the water nourished Helmont’s tree, since the tin cover of the box it was in kept the dew from getting in.

Dews must add very much to the Land, thus continually tilled and hoed; for they are more heavily charged with terrestrial Matter than Rain is, which appears from their forcing a Descent through the Air, when ’tis strong enough to buoy up the Clouds from falling into Rain: And Dew, when kept in a Vessel long enough to putrefy, leaves a greater Quantity of black Matter at the Bottom of the[128] Vessel, than Rain-water does in a Vessel of the same Bigness, filled with it till putrefied.

Dew must significantly contribute to the land, which is constantly farmed and hoed; it's more loaded with earthly material than rain is. This is evident when dew can descend through the air even when the conditions are strong enough to keep clouds from turning into rain. Moreover, when dew is stored in a container long enough to start decomposing, it leaves a larger amount of black residue at the bottom of the[128] container compared to rainwater in a similarly sized vessel that has also decomposed.

Dews at Land, I suppose, are first exhaled from Rivers, and moist Lands, and from the Expirations of Vegetables; most of the Dew which falls on it is exhaled from untilled Land; but most of that which falls on well tilled or well hoed Land, remains therein unexhaled; so that the untilled Ground helps, by that means, to enrich and augment the tilled: For if an Acre be tilled for Two Years together without sowing, it will become richer by that Tillage, than by lying unplowed Four Years, which may be easily proved by Experience[142].

Dew on land, I think, mostly comes from rivers, wet areas, and the evaporations of plants. Most of the dew that lands on it comes from uncultivated land, but a lot of what falls on well-cultivated or well-tilled land stays there and isn’t lost. This means that uncultivated ground actually helps enrich and improve the cultivated land. For instance, if you till an acre for two consecutive years without planting anything, it will become richer from that tilling than if it just sits unplowed for four years, which can easily be proven by experience.[142].

[142]Non igitur Fatigatione, quemadmodum plurimi crediderunt, nec Senio, sed nostra scilicet Inertia, minus benigne nobis Arva respondent. Colum. lib. xi. cap. 1.

[142]So it's not fatigue, as many have believed, nor old age, but clearly our own laziness that causes the fields to respond less favorably to us. Colum. lib. xi. cap. 1.

But then, as to Rain, the Sea being larger than all the Land (and its Waters, by their Motion, becoming replete with terrestrial Matter), ’tis not unlikely, that more Vapour is raised from One Acre of Sea, than from One hundred Acres of Land.

But then, regarding rain, since the sea is larger than all the land (and its waters, through their movement, become filled with land material), it’s not unlikely that more vapor is produced from one acre of sea than from one hundred acres of land.

Some have been so curious as to compute the Quantity of Rain, that falls yearly in some Places in England, by a Contrivance of a Vessel to receive it; and ’tis found, in one of the driest Places, far from the Sea, to be Fourteen Inches deep, in the Compass of a Year; in some Places much more; viz. at Paris, Nineteen Inches; in Lancashire, Mr. Townley found, by a long-continued Series of Observations, that there falls above Forty Inches of Water in a Year’s time.

Some people have been so curious that they've calculated the amount of rain that falls each year in certain places in England, using a vessel designed to collect it. They found that in one of the driest areas, far from the sea, it falls to a depth of fourteen inches in a year; in some places, it's much more; for example, in Paris, it measures nineteen inches; in Lancashire, Mr. Townley discovered, through a long series of observations, that over forty inches of water falls in a year's time.

Could we as easily compute the true Quantity of Earth in Rain-water, as the Quantity of Water is computed, we might perhaps find it to answer the Quantity of Earth taken off from our hoed Soil annually by the Wheat.

Could we calculate the actual amount of Earth in rainwater as easily as we can calculate the amount of water, we might find that it corresponds to the amount of Earth removed from our cultivated soil each year by the wheat.

But if Land sown with Wheat be not hoed, its Surface is soon incrustate; and then much of this Water, with its Contents, runs off, and returns to[129] the Sea, without entering the Ground; and in Summer a great deal of what remains is exhaled by the Sun, and raised by the Wind, both in Summer and Winter.

But if land planted with wheat isn't hoed, its surface quickly becomes crusted. Then a lot of the water, along with its contents, runs off and goes back to [129] the sea, without soaking into the ground. In summer, much of what’s left evaporates due to the sun and is carried away by the wind, both in summer and winter.

Some there are who think it a fatal Objection, that the more an Interval is hoed, the more Weeds will grow in it; and that the Hoe can produce, or (as they say) breed in it as many Weeds in one Summer, as would have come thereon in Ten Years by the old Husbandry. But by this Objection they only maintain, that the Hoe can destroy as many Weeds in One Summer, as the old Husbandry can in Ten Years.

Some people believe it's a serious criticism that the more a space is cultivated, the more weeds will grow in it; and that the hoe can generate, or as they put it, produce as many weeds in one summer as would have naturally developed over ten years with traditional farming methods. However, this argument only suggests that the hoe can eliminate as many weeds in one summer as traditional farming can in ten years.

And they might add, that since all Weeds that grow where the Hoe comes, are killed before they seed, and that few of those Which grow in the old Husbandry, are killed[143] before their Seed be ripe and shed; these Objectors will be forced to allow, that our Husbandry will lessen a Stock of Weeds more in one Summer, than theirs can do to the World’s End; unless they believe the equivocal Generation of Weeds, than which Opinion nothing can be more absurd.

And they might say that since all the weeds that grow where the hoe is used are killed before they can seed, and that few of those which grow in traditional farming are killed before their seeds are ripe and dropped, these critics will have to accept that our farming will reduce the number of weeds more in one summer than theirs can for all time; unless they believe in the ridiculous idea of weeds reproducing in ambiguous ways.

[143]Weeds cannot be killed before they grow, but will lie dormant, as they do in our Partitions, and in their sown Land; and while Seeds are in the Ground, they are always ready to grow at the first Opportunity, and will certainly break out at one time or other; so that preventing their coming, is only like healing up a Wound before it be cured.

[143]Weeds can't be eliminated before they sprout; they stay dormant, like they do in our sections and in the soil where they're planted. As long as seeds are in the ground, they're always ready to grow at the first chance they get, and they'll definitely break through eventually. So, preventing them from appearing is basically like trying to heal a wound before it's been treated.

Some object against my Method of[144] weighing a Yard, or a Perch in Length of a Row, saying, this does not determine the Produce of a whole Field.

Some people object to my method of [144] weighing a yard or a length of a row, saying that this doesn't determine the output of an entire field.

[144]I did not weigh this Yard, as different from the other Yards round about it, for I had much Difficulty to determine which Row I should chuse it in; when I was going to cut in one Row, it still seemed that another was better, and I question whether I did chuse the best at last.

[144]I didn't measure this yard, different from the other yards around it, because I had a hard time deciding which row to choose. Whenever I was about to pick one row, another one still seemed better, and I wonder if I really chose the best in the end.

Note, Whereas I often mention the Wheat of this Field to be without Dung or Fallow, it must be understood of that Part of the Field wherein my Weighings and other Trials were made: because there was a small Part once fallowed Eight or Nine Years ago, and a little Dung laid on another Part about the last Michaelmas, after the Crop of Oats was taken off. But this being a Year in which Dung is observed to have little or no Effect on sown Wheat (my Dung being weak and laid thin), ’tis the same here; for those Rows which are in the dunged Part, can hardly be distinguished from the rest of the Rows which had not been dunged: And yet the Ends of the Rows which were cleansed of Weeds, are very distinguishable by the Colour of the Wheat, though some are the Third, and some the Fourth Crop since the Difference was made; and the whole Rows managed alike every Year, from that time to this; so that here Un-exhaustion is more effectual than Dung. This is certain, that neither Dung nor Fallow hath been near the Part wherein my Experiments were made.

Note: While I often refer to the Wheat in this Field as being without Fertilizer or Fallow, it's important to clarify that this pertains to the specific section of the Field where I conducted my Weighings and other Tests. There was a small area that was fallowed eight or nine years ago, and a bit of Fertilizer was applied to another section around the last Michaelmas, after the Oats were harvested. However, this year, Fertilizer seems to have little to no effect on sown Wheat (my Fertilizer was weak and applied sparingly), which is true in this case as well; those Rows in the fertilized area are hardly distinguishable from the Rows that weren't fertilized. Yet, the Ends of the Rows that were cleared of Weeds are quite noticeable by the Color of the Wheat, even though some are the Third and some the Fourth Crop since we made the distinction; and all the whole Rows have been treated the same way every Year since then, so here, avoiding depletion is more effective than Fertilizer. It's clear that neither Fertilizer nor Fallow has been applied near the area where I conducted my Experiments.

[130]

[130]

I answer, that they judge right, if the Produce of the whole Field be not of equal Goodness; but if it be not, it must be because one Part of the Field is richer, or differently managed from the other Part: For the same Causes that produce Twenty Ounces of clean Wheat upon one Yard, must produce the same Quantity upon every Yard, of a Million of Acres.

I respond that they are correct in their judgment if the yield of the entire field isn’t equally good; but if it isn’t, it must be because one part of the field is more fertile or differently tended than the other part. The same factors that yield twenty ounces of clean wheat per yard should yield the same amount across every yard of a million acres.

When the Crop of half a Field is spoiled by Sheep, not hoed at all, or improperly, it would be ridiculous to compute the whole Field together for an Experiment: We might indeed weigh the poorest, to prove the Difference of the one from the other, to try (as they sometimes seem to do) how poor a Crop we can raise; but my Design was, to try how good a Crop I could raise with a Tenth Part of the common Expence.

When half a field's crop is ruined by sheep, either because it hasn't been tended to at all or has been improperly cared for, it would be foolish to consider the entire field for an experiment. We could certainly weigh the worst part to demonstrate the difference between them, just to see (as they sometimes do) how little we can grow; but my goal was to find out how good a crop I could grow with just a tenth of the usual expense.

And I have often weighed the Produce of the same Quantity of Ground[145], of all Sorts of sown Wheat, both the best and the worst; but never have found any of the sown equal to the best of my drilled. Indeed we have none of the richest Land[146] in our[131] Country within my Reach, that being not above One Mile.

And I've often compared the yield from the same area of land[145], of all types of sown wheat, both the best and the worst; but I've never found any of the sown varieties that match the best of my drilled wheat. In fact, I don't have access to any of the richest land[146] in our[131] country, which is no more than one mile away.

[145]I allow Two square Yards of their Crops to One Yard in Length of my Treble Row.

[145]I allow two square yards of their crops for every yard in length of my triple row.

[146]I am sorry that this Farm, whereon I have practised Horse-hoeing, being situate on an Hill, that consists of Chalk on one Side, and Heath ground on the other, has been usually noted for the poorest and shallowest Soil in the Neighbourhood.

[146]I'm sorry that this farm, where I've used horse-hoeing, is located on a hill with chalk on one side and heathland on the other. It's typically known for having the poorest and thinnest soil in the area.

As a Yard in Length of my treble Row of the Third successive Crop of Wheat, without Dung or Fallow, produced Twenty Ounces of Wheat; which, allowing Six Feet to the Ridge, is about Six Quarters[147] to an Acre; and, allowing Seven Inches to each Partition, and Two Inches on each Outside, is in all Eighteen Inches of Ground to each treble Row, and but just One-fourth Part of the Ridge. Now, if, in the old Husbandry, the Crop was as good all over the Ground, as it was in these Eighteen Inches of the treble Row, they must have Twenty-four Quarters to an Acre; but let them dung whilst they can, they will scarce raise Twenty-four Gallons of Wheat the Third Year, on an Acre of Land of equal Goodness; and let them leave out their Dung, and add no more Tillage in lieu of it, and I believe they will not expect Three Quarters to an Acre, in all the Three Years put together.

As a yard along the length of my triple row of the third successive crop of wheat, without any manure or fallow, produced twenty ounces of wheat; which, with six feet allocated to the ridge, comes to about six quarters to an acre. Taking into account seven inches for each partition and two inches on each outside, that's a total of eighteen inches of ground for each triple row, which is just a quarter of the ridge. Now, if in traditional farming, the crop was as good across the whole field as it was in these eighteen inches of the triple row, they would have twenty-four quarters per acre; but even if they apply manure while they can, they will hardly produce twenty-four gallons of wheat in the third year from an acre of land of similar quality. And if they skip the manure and don't increase tillage in its place, I believe they shouldn't expect more than three quarters per acre over the three years combined.

[147]Eight Bushels make a Quarter.

__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__8 Bushels make a Quarter.

The mean Price of Wheat, betwixt Dear and Cheap, is reckoned Five Shillings a Bushel[148]; and[132-
137]
therefore an Acre that would produce every Year, without any Expence, Eight Bushels, would be thought an extraordinary profitable Acre; but yet a drilled Acre, that produces Sixteen Bushels of Wheat, with the Expence of Ten or Fifteen Shillings, is above a Third Part more profitable.

The average price of wheat, between expensive and cheap, is considered five shillings a bushel[148]; and[132-
137]
therefore, an acre that produces eight bushels every year with no expenses would be seen as an extraordinarily profitable acre; however, a drilled acre that produces sixteen bushels of wheat, with expenses of ten or fifteen shillings, is more than a third more profitable.

[148]’Tis commonly said, that a Farmer cannot thrive, who for want of Money is obliged to sell his Wheat under Five Shillings a Bushel; but if he will sell it dear, he must keep it when ’tis cheap; And his Way of keeping it is in the Straw, using his best Contrivances to preserve it from the Mice.

[148]It's often said that a farmer can't succeed if, due to a lack of money, he has to sell his wheat for less than five shillings a bushel; but if he wants to sell it for a good price, he has to hold onto it when it's cheap. And his way of storing it is in the straw, using his best methods to keep it safe from mice.

The most secure Way of keeping a great Quantity of Wheat, that ever I heard of, is by drying it. When I lived in Oxfordshire, one of my nearest Neighbours was very expert in this, having practised it for great Part of his Life: When Wheat was under Three Shillings a Bushel, he bought in the Markets as much of the middle Sort of Wheat as his Money would reach to purchase: He has often told me, that his Method was to dry it upon an Hair-cloth, in a Malt-kiln, with no other Fuel than clean Wheat-Straw; never suffering it to have any stronger Heat than that of the Sun. The longest time he ever let it remain in this Heat was Twelve Hours, and the shortest time about Four Hours; the damper the Wheat was, and the longer intended to be kept, the more Drying it requires: But how to distinguish nicely the Degrees of Dampness, and the Number of Hours proper for its Continuance upon the Kiln, he said was an Art impossible to be learned by any other Means than by Practice. About Three or Four and Twenty Years ago, Wheat being at Twelve Shillings a Bushel, he had in his Granaries, as I was informed, Five thousand Quarters of dried Wheat; none of which cost him above Three Shillings a Bushel.

The most secure way to store a large quantity of wheat that I've ever heard of is by drying it. When I lived in Oxfordshire, one of my closest neighbors was very skilled at this, having practiced it for most of his life. When wheat was under three shillings a bushel, he bought as much of the middle quality wheat as his money would allow at the markets. He often told me that his method was to dry it on a hair-cloth in a malt kiln, using only clean wheat straw as fuel, never allowing it to heat beyond the heat of the sun. The longest he ever left it in this heat was twelve hours, and the shortest was about four hours; the damper the wheat was and the longer he planned to store it, the more drying it needed. But distinguishing the right levels of dampness and how many hours it should stay in the kiln, he said, was an art that could only be learned through practice. About twenty-three or twenty-four years ago, when wheat was twelve shillings a bushel, he had five thousand quarters of dried wheat in his granaries, none of which cost him more than three shillings a bushel.

This dried Wheat was esteemed by the London Bakers to work better than any new Wheat that the Markets afforded. His Speculation, which put him upon this Project, was, that ’twas only the superfluous Moisture of the Grain that caused its Corruption, and made it liable to be eaten by the Wevil; and that when this Moisture was dried out, it might be kept sweet and good for many Years; and that the Effect of all Heat of the same Degree was the same, whether of the Straw, or of the Sun.

This dried wheat was valued by the London bakers for being better than any new wheat available in the markets. His theory, which led him to this project, was that it was only the excess moisture in the grain that caused it to spoil and become vulnerable to weevils; and that once this moisture was removed, it could be preserved in good condition for many years. He believed that all heat at the same temperature, whether from straw or the sun, produced the same effect.

As a Proof, he would shew, that every Grain of his Wheat would grow after being kept Seven Years.

As proof, he would show that every grain of his wheat would grow after being stored for seven years.

He was a most sincere honest Yeoman, who from a small Substance he began with, left behind him about Forty thousand Pounds; the greatest Part whereof was acquired by this Drying Method.

He was a very genuine and honest farmer, who started with a small amount of money and left behind about forty thousand pounds; most of which was earned through this drying method.

For the Hand-hoeing they use Hoes of Four Inches Breadth, very thin, and well steeled: Their Thinness keeps them from wearing to a thick Edge, and prevents the Necessity of often grinding them. Such Hoes are in Use with some Gardeners near London. They need not be afraid of drawing these little Hoes across the Rows of young Wheat to take out the few Weeds that come therein at the early Hoeing; for whilst the Wheat-plants are small, it may be an Advantage to cut out some of the weakest, as they do of Turneps; for I perceive there are oftener too many Plants than too few. But the thing that causes the greatest Trouble in cleansing the Rows, is when the Seed is foul (i. e. full of Seeds of Weeds): Therefore I cleanse my Seed-wheat by drawing it on a Cloth on a Table, which makes it perfectly clean.

For hand-hoeing, they use hoes that are four inches wide, very thin, and well-made. Their thinness prevents them from wearing down to a thick edge, so they don’t need to be sharpened often. Some gardeners near London use these types of hoes. They don’t have to worry about dragging these small hoes across the rows of young wheat to remove the few weeds that pop up during early hoeing; while the wheat plants are small, it can actually help to remove some of the weakest ones, just like they do with turnips. I’ve noticed that there are usually too many plants rather than too few. However, the biggest hassle when cleaning the rows comes from the seed being mixed with weed seeds. So, I clean my seed wheat by spreading it out on a cloth on a table, which makes it completely clean.

This Hand-hoeing should be performed about the End of March, or Beginning of April, before the Wheat is spindled (i. e. run up to Stalks); and if the Weather be dry enough, you may go lengthways of the Ridges with a very light Roller to break the Clods of the Partitions, whereby the Hoe will work the better.

This hand-hoeing should be done around the end of March or the beginning of April, before the wheat starts to shoot up into stalks; and if the weather is dry enough, you can roll along the ridges with a very light roller to break up the clods in the partitions, which will make hoeing easier.

If there should afterwards more Weeds come up, they must not be suffered to ripen; and then the Soil will be every Year freer from Weeds.

If more weeds come up later, they should not be allowed to mature; then the soil will be clearer of weeds each year.

This Hand-hoeing of the Rows should be done at the proper time, though it happen, by late Planting, that the Horse-hoe has not gone before it; for it may be, that the Weather has kept out the Horse-hoe: and the Earth may not be dry deep enough in the Intervals for the Hoe-plough, but deep enough in the Partitions for the Hand-hoe.

This hand-hoeing of the rows should be done at the right time, even if late planting means that the horse-hoe hasn’t been used first; it could be that the weather kept the horse-hoe from working. The soil may not be dry enough in the gaps for the hoe-plough, but it could be deep enough in the sections for the hand-hoe.

And the Expence of this Hand-work on the Rows would be well answered, though there should not be one Weed in them; and so it would be, if a second Hand hoeing were bestowed on the Partitions of every Crop of Wheat not suspected of being too luxuriant.

And the cost of this manual labor on the rows would be justified, even if there were no weeds at all; and that would be the case if a second hand hoeing were applied to the sections of every crop of wheat that isn’t thought to be overly lush.

If after the last Horse-hoeing there should be Occasion for another Hoeing of the Intervals, where the Narrowness of them, and the Leaning of tall Wheat, make it difficult or dangerous to be performed by the Hoe-plough; a slight shallow Hoeing may be performed therein by the Hand-hoe with Ease and Safety, at a very small Expence, which would be more than doubly repaid in the following Crops.

If after the last hoeing of the horse-drawn plow there's a need for another hoeing of the narrow spaces, where the tightness and the tall wheat make it tough or risky for the hoe-plow to work effectively; a light, shallow hoeing can be done easily and safely by hand with a regular hoe at a very low cost, which would pay off more than double in the next crops.

If any one doubts of the Efficacy of thus managing Wheat, it can’t cost much to make proper Trials. But then Care must be taken, that the Trials be proper. I do not advise any one to be at the Expence of my Instruments for that Purpose, but to imitate them in pulverizing, and all other directed Operations by the Spade and common Hoes. His Ridges of Experiment need be no longer than Six Feet. Instead of a Drill, make use of a triangular Piece of Wood, Seven Feet long, and Four or Five Inches thick, with one Edge of which make Channels, and place the Seed regularly even into them by Hand, and cover it with the same Piece of Wood; but if the Earth be so wet, as to cling to the Piece, then make use of it only as a Ruler, whereby to make the Channels strait with a Stick.

If anyone doubts the effectiveness of managing wheat this way, it won’t take much to conduct proper trials. However, it's important to ensure that the trials are done correctly. I don’t recommend anyone investing in my tools for this purpose; instead, just follow my methods for grinding and the other operations using a spade and standard hoes. Your experimental ridges can be no longer than six feet. Instead of a drill, use a triangular piece of wood that is seven feet long and four or five inches thick, carving channels into one edge, then place the seeds evenly into them by hand and cover them with the same piece of wood. If the soil is too wet and sticks to the wood, just use it as a ruler to make straight channels with a stick.

Let some of the Ridges have double Rows, others treble; and let some have treble Rows half-way, and leave out the middle Row in the other Half, to shew whether the double Row or the treble Row produce a better Crop.

Let some of the ridges have double rows, others have triple rows; and let some have triple rows halfway, leaving out the middle row in the other half, to show whether the double row or the triple row yields a better crop.

Then for the First time of Hoeing, the Spade must work with its Back towards the Row. The Second time, in turning the Earth to the Row, the Spade’s Face must be towards it. These Two, and several other Hoeings should be deep; but when the Roots are large (and the Hoeing is near the Plants), the Spade must go shallow; and neither the Face nor the Back of it must be towards the Row, except when the Earth is turned towards it; and then the Face must be always towards it; but for the rest of the last Hoeings, the Spade should work with its Face towards one or other of the Ends of the Intervals, that the fewer of the Roots may be cut off, and the more of them removed, and covered again. Let the Spits be thin for the better pulverizing of the Mould. The Hand-hoe will sometimes be useful in the Intervals, as well as in the Partitions.

Then for the first time you hoe, the spade should be used with its back facing the row. The second time, when turning the soil towards the row, the spade’s face should be towards it. Both of these, along with several other hoeings, should be deep; but when the roots are large (and the hoeing is close to the plants), the spade should go shallow; and neither the face nor the back of it should face the row, except when the soil is being turned towards it; and at that point, the face must always be facing it. For the remaining hoeings, the spade should work with its face directed towards one of the ends of the intervals, to minimize cutting off roots and maximize the number of roots that are moved and covered again. The tines should be thin for better breaking up of the soil. The hand hoe will sometimes be helpful in the intervals, as well as in the divisions.

Four or Five Perches of Land may suffice for making proper Trials.

Four or five plots of land may be enough for conducting proper trials.

The Expence of this will be little, though perhaps Ten times more than that which is done by the proper Instruments for the same Proportion of Land.

The cost of this will be small, though it may be ten times more than what is done with the proper tools for the same amount of land.

But I must give this Caution, that no Part of it be done out of the Reach of the Master’s Eye; for if it should, he may expect to be disappointed.

But I have to warn you that nothing should be done out of the Master’s sight; because if it is, he can expect to be let down.

The richer the Land, the thinner it must be planted to prevent the lodging of Corn.

The richer the land, the less densely it should be planted to prevent the corn from falling over.

The Master ought to compute the Quantity of Seed, due to each Perch, at the Rate of Five or Six Gallons to an Acre, by Weighing, &c. as I have shewn in my Essay.

The Master should calculate the amount of seed needed for each Perch, at a rate of five or six gallons per acre, by weighing, &c. as I have shown in my Essay.

I cannot commend more than Two Partitions in a Row, or more than One, when the Intervals are narrow; because the broader the Row is, the more Earth will remain unpulverized, under the Partitions; too much of which Earth being whole, will disappoint, at least, one of the Differences mentioned in my xviith Chapter.

I can't recommend more than two partitions in a row, or more than one when the gaps are narrow; because the wider the row is, the more soil will stay unbroken under the partitions. If too much of that soil remains whole, it will undermine at least one of the distinctions I mentioned in my xviith Chapter.

Indifferent Land I think most proper whereon to make the Experiment, and the most improper for Corn is barren Land, as the best brings the largest Crops.

Indifferent Land seems to be the most suitable for the experiment, while barren land is the least suitable for growing corn, as the best land produces the largest yields.

To ascertain the Quantity of the Crop, take a Yard in the Middle of a Ridge, and weigh its Produce.

To determine the amount of the crop, take a yard from the center of a ridge and weigh what it produces.

Every Year leave one Interval unhoed, to prove the Difference of that Side of a double or treble Row next to it, from the other Side next to the hoed Interval.

Every year, leave one row unhoed to show the difference between the side of a double or triple row next to it and the other side next to the hoed row.

But it must be noted, that the Spade doth not always pulverize so much as the Plough, or Hoe-plough; therefore there may be occasion for more Diggings than there would be of Horse-hoeings.

But it must be noted that the spade doesn’t always break up the soil as much as the plow or hoe-plow; therefore, there may be a need for more digging than there would be for horse hoeing.

One of the Observations that put me upon Trials of wide Intervals, and Horse work for Corn, was the following; viz. One Half of a poorish Field was sown with Barley; the other Half drilled with Turneps, the Rows Thirty Inches asunder, at the proper Season, and twice hoed with a Sort of Horse-hoe contrived for that Purpose (but nothing like that I have described); the Drill, beginning next to the Barley, left an Interval of the same (30 Inches) Breadth between the First Row of Turneps and the Barley, which, being sown on large Furrows, came up in a sort of Rows, as is common for Barley to come when sown on such wide Furrows. This Interval between the Barley and the Turneps had the same Hoeings as the rest, and had this Effect on the broad Row of Barley next to it; viz. Each Plant had many Stalks; it was of a very deep flourishing Colour, grew high, the Ears very long, and, in all respects, the Barley was as good as if it had been produced by the richest Land. The next Row of Barley had some little Benefit on the Side next to the strong Row; but all the rest of the Barley, either by the too late Sowing of it, the Poverty of the Soil (not being in any manner dunged), or else by the Coldness of the Land, or Coldness of the Summer, or by all of these Causes, though pretty free from Weeds, was exceeding poor, yellow, low, thin, and the Ears were very short and small.

One of the observations that led me to experiment with wide spacing and using horses for farming was this: Half of a mediocre field was planted with barley, while the other half was drilled with turnips, with the rows spaced thirty inches apart at the right time, and hoed twice using a type of horse hoe designed for that purpose (though nothing like what I’ve previously described). The drill, starting next to the barley, left an interval of the same thirty-inch width between the first row of turnips and the barley, which was sown in large furrows and came up in sort of rows, as is typical for barley when sown in such wide furrows. This gap between the barley and the turnips received the same hoeings as the rest, which had a noticeable impact on the broad row of barley next to it; specifically, each plant developed many stalks, showing a very deep green color, grew tall, had very long ears, and, in every way, the barley was as good as if it had been grown in the richest soil. The next row of barley benefited somewhat from being next to the stronger row, but the rest of the barley, either due to being sown too late, the poor soil (which hadn’t been fertilized at all), the coldness of the land, the cold summer, or some combination of these factors, although relatively free from weeds, turned out to be very poor, yellow, short, thin, and the ears were quite small and short.

I intended to have taken the exact Difference there was between the Produce of this outside Row, and one of those that stood out of the Reach of the hoed Interval: But I was disappointed by my Neighbour’s Herd of Cows, that in the Night broke in just before Harvest, and eat off almost all the Ears of the rich Row, doing very little Damage to the rest, except by treading it. It must be from the different Tastes, the one being sweet, and the other bitter, that they make their Election to eat the one, and refuse the other.

I meant to compare the exact difference between the yield of this outer row and one of those that weren't affected by the hoed area. But I was let down by my neighbor's herd of cows, which broke in just before harvest at night and ate almost all the ears from the rich row, causing very little damage to the rest, except for trampling it. It must be due to the different tastes; one is sweet, and the other is bitter, which is why they choose to eat one and ignore the other.

This accidental Observation was sufficient to demonstrate the Efficacy of deep Hoeing, which I look upon as synonymous to Horse-hoeing.

This accidental observation was enough to show the effectiveness of deep hoeing, which I consider to be the same as horse-hoeing.

I immediately set about contriving my limbered Hoe, finding all other Sorts insufficient for the Exactness required in this hoeing Operation: Those drawn in any other manner, when they went too far from the Row, and the Holder went to lift the Plough nearer, it would fly back again, like the Sally of a Bell, and go at no Certainty not being subject to the Guidance of the Holder, as the limber Hoe-plough is. The Michaelmas following I began my present Horse-hoeing Scheme; which has never yet deceived my Expectations, when performed according to the Directions I have given my Readers. And the Practice of this Scheme proves the Advantage of deep Hoeing, by the Ends of the Ridges and Intervals; for there, whilst the drawing Cattle go on the Headland that is higher, the Furrows are shallower, and the Corn of the Rows is always there visibly poorer in proportion to that Shallowness.

I quickly started creating my flexible hoe, finding all other types inadequate for the precision needed in this hoeing process. Those made in any other way, when they strayed too far from the row, would cause the holder to lift the plow closer, but it would snap back like the swing of a bell, lacking the certainty that comes with the flexible hoe-plow. The Michaelmas after that, I began my current horse-hoeing plan, which has never let me down as long as it's done according to the instructions I've shared with my readers. The practice of this method shows the benefits of deep hoeing, particularly at the ends of the ridges and in the spaces between them; there, while the pulling animals walk on the higher headland, the furrows are shallower, and the corn in the rows is always visibly poorer compared to that shallowness.

Another Proof of the Difference there is between deep Hoeing and shallow, is in the Garden, where a square Perch of Cabbages, the Rows of which are Three Feet asunder; the middle Row of them having the Intervals on each Side of it deeply and well dug by the Spade at the same proper time, when the rest of the Intervals are Hand hoed; this middle Row will shew the Difference of those Two Operations: But in this must be observed what I have here before mentioned, of turning the Back of the Spade to the Plants, to avoid the total removing them, especially in very dry Weather.

Another proof of the difference between deep hoeing and shallow hoeing can be seen in the garden, where a square perch of cabbages, with rows three feet apart, has the middle row spaced out on each side that is deeply and well dug with a spade at the same appropriate time when the other spaces are hand-hoed. This middle row will show the difference between the two methods. However, it should be noted, as I mentioned before, to turn the back of the spade towards the plants to prevent completely uprooting them, especially during very dry weather.

This Experiment hath been tried, and always succeeds with every one that has made the Trials.

This experiment has been tested and always works for everyone who has tried it.

But before any one makes his Trials of my Field-scheme, I would advise him to be Master of the Treatise, by making an Index himself to it: This will both direct him in his Proceedings, and shew him the Rashness of those, who go into the Practice of my Husbandry, without the necessary Preparation; for they that do so now, seem to act as rashly, as they that went into it before the Treatise was published. ’Tis reasonable to presume, that such their Practice must be either different from, or contrary to mine.

But before anyone tries out my Field plan, I recommend that they understand the Treatise fully by creating an Index for it themselves. This will guide them in their approach and highlight the recklessness of those who dive into my Farming methods without the proper preparation. People who do this now seem to act just as thoughtlessly as those who did before the Treatise was published. It's reasonable to assume that their practices must be either different from or contrary to mine.

This Index may be also useful for discovering Pretenders by an Examination, without which, Gentlemen are liable to be imposed on by them, as I am afraid too many have been; for amongst all those who have undertaken the Management of my Scheme for Noblemen, or others, I declare I do not know one Person that sufficiently understands it: There may be some who have seen, or perhaps performed, some of the mechanical Part; but I don’t think it can be properly performed without a thorough Knowlege of the Principles, which cannot be expected of such illiterate Persons; and yet is necessary for the proper Applications in different Cases, which cannot be distinguished by Pretenders: Therefore, until the Scheme becomes common, the Management must be under the Direction of the Master himself, or of one who has past his Examination, and is faithful.

This Index might also be helpful in identifying Pretenders through an examination; without it, people can easily be fooled by them, as I fear many have been. Among everyone who has taken on the management of my scheme for nobles and others, I honestly don't know anyone who fully grasps it. Some may have seen or even done parts of the mechanical work, but I don't believe it can be done properly without a deep understanding of the principles, which can't be expected from such uneducated individuals. Yet, this knowledge is essential for making proper applications in various situations that cannot be recognized by Pretenders. Therefore, until the scheme becomes widely known, the management must be directed by the Master himself or by someone who has passed their examination and is trustworthy.

To the above Trials, I here add the following, together with some Alterations of the former.

To the above Trials, I now add the following, along with some changes to the previous ones.

Gentlemen who can get the Smyrna Wheat, I advise to make Trials of it in single Rows, of between 17 and 18 to an Acre, in this Method; there being no Partitions, the Intervals will be of the same Width as in the Ridges of 14 to an Acre, that have Partitions of Ten Inches. Thus almost all the Earth of the Ridges may be pulverized by the Hoe-plough in the Field, or by the Spade in this Trial; and very little Hand-work will be necessary for cleansing out the Weeds that come in the Rows, and on each side of them. The Land will be the fitter for a succeeding Crop of Wheat with less Harrowing. But this must be observed, that, in regard to hard Frosts in Winter, and very dry Weather in Summer, the alternate Hoeing described in the Chapter of Turneps may be proper; lest the little Earth that may be left for the Row to stand on, when the Furrows are turned from both Sides of it, should not be sufficient to secure the Roots from the Injuries that may happen to them by being exposed either to Frost or Drought on both Sides of the Row at the same time.

Gentlemen who can obtain the Smyrna Wheat, I recommend trying it in single rows, with about 17 to 18 rows per acre, using this method; since there are no partitions, the spaces will be the same width as in the rows of 14 per acre, which have ten-inch partitions. This way, almost all the soil in the rows can be tilled by the hoe-plow in the field or by hand with a spade during this trial, and only minimal hand labor will be needed to clear out weeds that appear in the rows and on either side. The land will be better prepared for a subsequent crop of wheat with less harrowing. However, it’s important to note that due to hard frosts in winter and very dry weather in summer, the alternate hoeing mentioned in the chapter on turnips may be suitable. This is to avoid the risk that the little soil left for the row to rest on, when the furrows are turned away from both sides, may not be enough to protect the roots from damage caused by exposure to frost or drought on both sides at the same time.

In the Field, when the Ridges are all of an equal Breadth, the best Way is to plant Two of the single Rows at once, by setting the Two Beams of the Drill at the same Distance asunder, as each of the Ridges is broad; and the Beast that draws it must go in the Middle of the Interval, planting a Row on each Side of it; but if the Ridges are very unequal, the Beast (a little Horse is best) that draws the Drill must go on the Top of a Ridge, planting one Row thereon; and the Drill for this Purpose is the same as the Turnep-drill, except that the Beam-share, Seed-box, and Spindle, are the same as those of the Wheat-drill; and ’tis but to take off from the Wheat-drill one of its Beams, and place it in the room of the Beam of the Turnep-drill, and placing the Cross-piece of the Turnep-beam (see Plate 5.) on this Beam, and also a short Wheat-hopper to be drawn by the Turnep-standards, setting the Wheels near enough together; i. e. as near as the Wheels of the Wheat-drill are, I mean those which plant Two Rows.

In the field, when the ridges are all the same width, the best approach is to plant two single rows at once by setting the two beams of the drill the same distance apart as each ridge is wide. The animal pulling it should go in the middle of the gap, planting a row on each side. However, if the ridges vary greatly in width, the animal (a small horse works best) that pulls the drill should go on top of a ridge, planting one row there. The drill used for this is the same as the turnip drill, except that the beam-share, seed box, and spindle are the same as those of the wheat drill. You just need to remove one beam from the wheat drill and replace it with the beam of the turnip drill, and attach the cross-piece of the turnip beam (see Plate 5.) to this beam, along with a short wheat hopper to be drawn by the turnip standards, making sure the wheels are close enough together; that is, as close as the wheels of the wheat drill that plant two rows.

Two Gallons of Smyrna Wheat I judge will be Seed sufficient for an Acre, especially if planted early.

Two gallons of Smyrna wheat will be enough seed for an acre, especially if planted early.

Planting one Row upon a Ridge, I think is the most advantageous Method of all; but, not being able to get any Smyrna Wheat (tho’ I have been often promised it), I have made no Trial of it; and I do not believe the Plants of any other Sort of Wheat are large enough for such single Rows.

Planting a single row on a ridge seems to be the most beneficial method of all; however, since I haven't been able to get any Smyrna wheat (even though I've been promised it many times), I haven't tried it. I also don't think that the plants of any other type of wheat are big enough for these single rows.

I am not quite a Stranger to this Wheat; for I have seen the Product of it, both in the Garden, and in the Field, above Forty Years ago.

I am not exactly a stranger to this wheat; I've seen its produce, both in the garden and in the field, over forty years ago.

I am now making Trials, in order to know how much a single Row of White cone Wheat will exceed half a double one: For this Purpose, I cause one Row of the double, with the Partition, to be dug out with a Spade, in Part of every Field, Two or Three Yards in a Place: These I intend shall be hoed as the double Rows are; and where the Hoe-plough doth not reach, the Spade shall supply its Use.

I am currently conducting tests to determine how much a single row of white cone wheat surpasses half of a double row. To do this, I have a section of one double row, with the partition, dug out with a spade in various parts of each field, two or three yards at a time. I plan to hoe these rows just like the double rows, and where the hoe-plow can't reach, the spade will take its place.

I do not expect this single Row will equal the double Row; but I am in no doubt but that it will produce more Grain than half a double Row.

I don’t expect this single row to match the output of the double row; but I have no doubt that it will yield more grain than half of a double row.

I cannot tell whether the Sort of Cone-wheat that sends out little Branches on each Side of the Ear, might not succeed tolerably well in single Rows; for its Ear is, when well nourished, larger than the Ear of the White-cone; tho’ not near so large as that of the Smyrna.

I can't say if the type of cone wheat that sends out little branches on either side of the ear would do reasonably well in single rows; because when well-nourished, its ear is larger than that of the white cone, though not nearly as large as that of the Smyrna.

Another Experiment I propose to be made as a Trial for the Satisfaction of such sceptical Gentlemen who may doubt the Truth of what I have related in p. 27, 28. concerning the wonderful Effect of deep Hoeing. In a Field of very poor old decayed St. Foin, let Two or Three Perches be hedged in, in a square Piece, and Two, Three, or more Intervals, of Three or Four Feet wide each, be well pulverized by the Spade, leaving between every Two of them, Two or Three Feet of the St. Foin unmoved. Begin this Work in Summer, and repeat the Hoeing pretty often, observing the Rules I have laid down for Hoeing the Intervals of Wheat. Let not the Back of the Spade be turned towards the unmoved St. Foin, from which it throws the Earth at the First time of Hoeing; which is contrary to the First Hoeing of Wheat with a Spade; because there would otherwise be Danger of moving Wheat-roots; but there is no Danger of moving the St. Foin Roots, unless you wholly dig them out: Therefore the best Way for this Hoeing is to dig with the Back of the Spade towards one or the other End of the Interval: This cuts off the fewest Roots, and covers the most of them, and may perhaps be sometimes best for Wheat also. When the Earth is turned towards the St. Foin Rows, the Spade’s Face will be towards them of course.

Another experiment I suggest to address the doubts of any skeptical individuals who might question the truth of what I've mentioned in p. 27, 28. about the amazing effects of deep hoeing. In a field with very poor, old, decayed St. Foin, let's set aside two or three square sections and create two, three, or more rows that are three or four feet wide each, and break up the soil well with a spade, leaving two or three feet of unturned St. Foin between each row. Start this work in the summer, and hoe regularly, following the guidelines I provided for hoeing the wheat intervals. Be careful not to turn the back of the spade toward the unmoved St. Foin when hoeing for the first time since that would push the earth toward it; this differs from hoeing wheat with a spade, where there's a risk of disturbing wheat roots. However, there’s no risk of disturbing St. Foin roots unless you pull them out completely. Therefore, the best approach for hoeing is to dig with the back of the spade facing one end of the interval or the other. This method minimizes root cutting and maximizes coverage, which might also be beneficial for wheat at times. When the soil is turned toward the St. Foin rows, the spade's face will naturally be directed toward them.

Be sure to leave Four or more Feet untouched next to the Hedge that bounds the Piece, to the End that the Increase of the hoed St. Foin may the more plainly appear by comparing its Plants with those that are not hoed.

Be sure to leave four or more feet untouched next to the hedge that borders the piece, so the growth of the hoed St. Foin can be more clearly seen by comparing its plants with those that haven't been hoed.

If the Plants are very thick, make them thinner on one side of an Interval; and, on the other side, let them remain thick. You will certainly find the thin Plants most wonderfully increased in a Year or two, and the thick ones in proportion; and also the natural Grass, and all other Vegetables that grow near to the Intervals when they are well pulverized. I am confident mine, thus managed by Ploughs, increased some to an Hundred, some to a Thousand times the Size they were of before that Pulveration.

If the plants are really dense, thin them out on one side of a row, and leave them thick on the other side. You will definitely see that the thinner plants will grow remarkably in a year or two, and the thick ones will grow as well. Also, the natural grass and all the other vegetables that grow nearby will thrive when the soil is well broken up. I'm sure that mine, after being worked with plows, grew anywhere from one hundred to a thousand times their original size after that soil treatment.

All the Methods I have here and elsewhere described for the Field, I advise to be tried in these few Perches for Experiments.

All the methods I've described here and elsewhere for the field should be tested in these small areas for experiments.

I think some of those Ridges whereon one End is to be managed differently from the other End, should be longer than Six Feet; else the Roots of the Wheat and Weeds may so mix, and draw Nourishment from one another in the Middle of the Ridge, that the Difference of the Managements may not so plainly be seen as when the Ridge is longer.

I think some of those ridges, where one end needs to be managed differently from the other, should be longer than six feet; otherwise, the roots of the wheat and weeds might mix and draw nourishment from each other in the middle of the ridge, making it harder to see the difference in management compared to when the ridge is longer.

The few Perches of Land whereon any of the proposed Experiments are to be made, should be bounded in with dead Hedges; and should not be situate within Three or Four Poles of a live Hedge or Tree.

The small plots of land where any of the proposed experiments will be conducted should be enclosed with dead hedges and should not be located within three or four poles of a live hedge or tree.

The Three Instruments to be used in these unexpensive Trials, are, the Spade, to supply the Use of the Plough and Hoe plough; the Hand-hoe; and a Rake, instead of Harrows.

The three tools to be used in these inexpensive trials are the spade, which will replace the plow and hoe; the hand hoe; and a rake, used instead of harrows.

[138]

[138]

I don’t know that I ever had an Acre yet, that was tolerably well managed in this Manner, but what produced much more.

I don’t think I’ve ever had a piece of land that was managed this way that didn’t produce a lot more.


[139]

[139]

CHAP. 10.
Of Naughtiness.

Smuttiness is when the Grains of Wheat instead of Flour, are full of a black, stinking Powder: ’Tis a Disease of Wheat, which I don’t know is usual any-where but in cold Northern Countries; for if it had been common in Greece or Italy, there would probably have been some Word to express it by, in those Languages, as well as there is for the Blight.

Smuddiness is when the grains of wheat, instead of being flour, are filled with a black, foul-smelling powder. It’s a disease of wheat that I don’t know is common anywhere except in cold northern countries. If it were common in Greece or Italy, there would probably be a word for it in those languages, just like there is for blight.

I take it to be caused by cold wet Summers; and I was confirmed in this by several Plants of Wheat, taken up when they were in Grass in the Spring, and placed in Troughs in my Chamber-window, with some of the Roots in Water. These Wheat-plants sent up several Ears each; but at Harvest, every Grain was smutty; and I observed, none of the Ears ever sent out any Blossom: This Smuttiness could not be from any Moisture that descended upon it, but from the Earth, which always kept very moist, as in the aforesaid Mint Experiment. The Wheat-plants in the Field, from whence these were taken, brought very few smutty Grains, but brought much larger Ears than these.

I believe this is caused by cold, wet summers; and I was confirmed in this by several wheat plants I took up when they were still green in the spring and put in troughs at my window, with some of the roots submerged in water. These wheat plants produced several heads each; however, at harvest, every grain was spoiled. I noticed that none of the heads ever produced any flowers. This spoilage couldn't be due to any moisture that fell on them, but rather from the soil, which remained very moist, just like in the previously mentioned mint experiment. The wheat plants in the field, from which these were taken, produced very few spoiled grains but yielded much larger heads than these.

Whatsoever the Cause[149] be, there are but Two Remedies proposed; and those are Brining, and Change of Seed.

What the cause may be, there are only two suggested solutions: brining and changing the seed.

[149]The largest grained, plump, fat Wheat, is more liable to Smuttiness, than small-grained thin Wheat.

[149]The largest, plumpest, and fattest wheat is more prone to smuttiness than small-grained, thin wheat.

Brining of Wheat, to cure or prevent Smuttiness (as I have been credibly informed), was accidentally[140] discovered about Seventy Years ago, in the following Manner; viz. A Ship-load of Wheat was sunk near Bristol in Autumn, and afterwards at Ebbs all taken up, after it had been soaked in Sea-water; but it being unfit for making of Bread, a Farmer sowed some of it in a Field; and when it was found to grow very well, the whole Cargo was bought at a low Price by many Farmers, and all of it sown in different Places. At the following Harvest, all the Wheat in England happened to be smutty, except the Produce of this brined Seed, and that was all clean from Smuttiness. This Accident has been sufficient to justify the Practice of Brining ever since in all the adjacent Parts, and in most Places in England.

Brining wheat to cure or prevent smuttiness, as I've been reliably told, was discovered by accident about seventy years ago in the following way: A shipload of wheat sank near Bristol in the autumn, and once the tide went out, it was all retrieved after being soaked in seawater. However, since it was unfit for making bread, a farmer decided to sow some of it in a field. When it grew very well, many farmers bought the entire cargo at a low price and planted it in various locations. During the next harvest, all the wheat in England turned out to be smutty, except for the crop from this brined seed, which was completely free of smuttiness. This incident has been enough to support the practice of brining ever since in all the nearby areas and in most places in England.

I knew Two Farmers, whose Farms lay intermixed; they bought the same Seed together, from a very good Change of Land, and parted every Load betwixt them in the Field. The oldest Farmer believed Brining to be but a Fancy, and sowed his Seed unbrined; the other brined all his Part of Seed, and had not a smutty Ear in his Crop; but the old Farmer’s Crop was very smutty.

I knew two farmers whose farms were next to each other; they bought the same seed from a really good source and split every load between them in the field. The older farmer thought brining was just a gimmick, so he sowed his unbrined seed. The other farmer brined all his seed and ended up with no smutty ears in his crop, while the older farmer’s crop was very smutty.

Wheat for Drilling must have no other Brine, than what is made of pure Salt; for if there be any Brine of Meat amongst it[150], the Grease will not suffer the Wheat to be dry enough to be drilled.

Wheat for drilling must only have brine made from pure salt; if there's any meat brine mixed in, the grease will prevent the wheat from being dry enough to drill.

[150]Urine also makes the Wheat so greasy, that it will not be dry time enough to be drilled.

[150]Urine also makes the wheat so greasy that it won't dry quickly enough to be drilled.

If Seed-wheat be soaked in Urine, it will not grow; or if only sprinkled with it, it will most of it die, unless planted presently.

If seed wheat is soaked in urine, it won’t grow; or if it’s just sprinkled with it, most of it will die unless it’s planted right away.

The most expeditious Way of brining Wheat for the Drill, is to make a very strong Brine; and when the Wheat is laid on an Heap, sprinkle or lave it therewith; then turn it with a Shovel, and lave on more Brine; turn it again with a Shovel, until, by many Repetitions of this, the Wheat be all equally[141] wet. Next, sift on Quick-lime through a Sieve; turn the Wheat with a Shovel, and sift on more Lime; repeat this Sifting and Turning many times, which will make it dry enough to be drilled immediately; and this has been found sufficient to preserve uninfected Wheat from the Smut in a bad Year, the Seed being changed.

The fastest way to prepare wheat for planting is to create a very strong brine. Once the wheat is piled up, sprinkle or soak it with the brine. Then, use a shovel to turn it and add more brine; keep turning it with the shovel until the wheat is evenly wet after several repetitions. Next, sift quicklime over it using a sieve; turn the wheat again with a shovel and sift on more lime. Repeat this sifting and turning multiple times, which will make the wheat dry enough for immediate planting. This method has proven effective in keeping uninfected wheat free from smut in a bad year, provided that the seed is changed.

To dry it, we use[151] Quick-lime (that is, unslacked), which, beaten to Powder, and sifted thereon, confines the Brine to the Surfaces of the Grains, and suffers none of it to be exhaled by the Air: But when Lime has been long slacked, and is grown weak, ’tis unfit for this Purpose.

To dry it, we use[151] quicklime (that is, unslaked), which, when ground to powder and sifted on top, keeps the brine on the surfaces of the grains and prevents any of it from evaporating into the air. However, when lime has been slaked for too long and becomes weak, it's not suitable for this purpose.

[151]But if this doth not afford Powder enough, the Pieces must be slacked immediately before using; for if the Lime lie long after it is slacked (especially that made of Chalk), it will become weak, and lose most of its drying Quality.

[151]But if this doesn't provide enough powder, the pieces must be slacked right before use; because if the lime sits for too long after being slacked (especially the kind made from chalk), it will weaken and lose most of its drying ability.

Some Farmers use only to boil the strongest Quick-lime in Water, with which, instead of Brine, they sprinkle their Wheat, affirming it to be as effectual as that for preventing the Smut: But this not being within the Compass of my own Experience, I am doubtful of it; yet I wish it may be found effectual, because it would save Trouble to the Sower, and more to the Driller.

Some farmers only boil the strongest quicklime in water, which they use to sprinkle their wheat instead of brine, claiming it's just as effective for preventing smut. However, since this isn't something I've experienced myself, I'm skeptical about it. Still, I hope it turns out to be effective because it would save the sower and the driller a lot of trouble.

Smutty Seed-wheat, tho’ brined, will produce a smutty Crop, unless the Year prove very favourable.

Smutty seed wheat, even if soaked in brine, will yield a smutty crop unless the year is very favorable.

For ’tis to be known, that favourable Years will cure the Smut, as unkind ones will cause it: Else, before Brining was used, and the bad Years had caused all the Wheat in England to be smutty, they must have brought their Seed from Foreign Countries, or never have had any clean Wheat: Therefore ’tis certain, that kind Years will cure the Smut: ’Tis therefore to prevent the Injury of a bad Year, that we plant clean Seed, and well brined.

For it is known that good years will cure the smut, just as bad years will cause it. Otherwise, before brining was used and bad years caused all the wheat in England to be smutty, they would have had to bring their seed from other countries or never had any clean wheat. Therefore, it's clear that favorable years will cure the smut. To prevent the damage from a bad year, we plant clean, well-brined seed.

But of the Two Remedies against Smuttiness, a proper Change of Seed some think the most certain.

But of the two remedies for smuttiness, some believe that a proper change of seed is the most reliable.

A very worthy Gentleman assures me, that since he has found out a Place that affords a Change of Seed proper to his Land, which is for these Ten[142] Years past, he never had a Smutty Ear in any of his Crops (and he never brines nor limes it), tho’ all other Wheat have been often smutty throughout his Neighbourhood every wet Year, tho’ brined and limed. He says, the Person who furnishes him with this Seed, is very curious in changing his Seed also every Year.

A very respectable gentleman has told me that since he discovered a type of seed suitable for his land, he hasn’t had a single smutty ear in any of his crops for the past ten years (and he doesn’t brine or lime it). In contrast, all the other wheat in his area has frequently been smutty during wet years, even when brined and limed. He mentions that the person who supplies him with this seed is very particular about changing his seed every year.

This gives a Suspicion, that our drowned Wheat at Bristol might possibly be Foreign; and then might not have been smutty the next Year, tho’ it had not been soaked in the Sea-water.

This raises suspicion that our drowned wheat at Bristol might be foreign; and then it might not have been infected the following year, even if it hadn’t been soaked in seawater.

The Wheat sown by the Two Farmers aforementioned might be from a good Change of Land, but the Seed not changed the precedent Year; and then it might be no more infected, than what the Brine and Lime did cure.

The wheat planted by the two farmers mentioned earlier might come from a good change of land, but the seed wasn't changed the previous year; and therefore, it might not be any more infected than what the brine and lime cured.

To know what Changes are best to prevent Smuttiness of Wheat, we must consult the most Experienced; and they tell us, that the strong Clay Land is best to be sent to for Seed-wheat, whatever Sort of Land it be to be sowed upon; a White-clay is a good Change for a Red-clay, and a Red for a White. That from any strong Land is better than from a light Land; and the old Rhyme is, that Sand is a Change for no Land. But from whatever Land the Seed be taken, if it was not changed the preceding Year, it may possibly be infected; and then there may be Danger, tho’ we have it immediately from never so proper a Soil.

To understand what changes are best to prevent the contamination of wheat, we should seek advice from the most experienced people. They say that strong clay soil is the best source for seed wheat, no matter what type of land it will be planted on. White clay is a good change for red clay, and red clay works well for white. Seed from any strong soil is better than from light soil; as the old saying goes, sand isn't a suitable replacement for any soil. However, regardless of where the seed is sourced, if it hasn’t been changed in the previous year, it might be infected, which can pose a risk even if we get it straight from an ideal soil.

The strongest Objection that has been yet made against constant annual Crops of Wheat, is, that those Grains of the precedent Crop which happen to shed, and grow in the following Crop, will be in Danger of Smuttiness, for want of changing those individual Seeds.

The biggest objection raised against consistently growing annual crops of wheat is that the grains from the previous crop that drop and grow in the next crop are at risk of becoming moldy due to not changing those specific seeds.

All I can say in Answer is, that during these Five Years, which is all the time I have had these annual Crops, this objected Inconvenience never has happened[143] to me, even when a precedent Crop has been smutty.

All I can say in response is that during these five years, which is the entire time I've had these annual crops, this complained-about inconvenience has never happened to me, even when a previous crop has been spoiled.[143]

The Reason I take to be, that a Crop very early planted is not so apt to be smutty; and if it be not planted early, the Grains that are shed grow, and are killed before, or at the time of planting the next Crop. This saves a Crop following a smutty one (which is always occasioned by bad Seed, or bad Ordering); and when the former Crop was planted with good Seed well ordered, the shattered Grains of that may produce clean Wheat the Second Year; and ’tis very unlikely, that any Breed of these Grains should remain to grow in the Crop the Third Year.

The reason I believe is that a crop planted very early is less likely to be infected with smut. If the crop isn’t planted early, the grains that fall can sprout and die before or during the planting of the next crop. This approach protects a following crop from being affected by a smutty one (which is always caused by poor seed or poor management). When the previous crop was sown with good seed and well managed, the shattered grains from that harvest can yield clean wheat the second year; and it's very unlikely that any of these grains will survive to grow in the third year’s crop.


CHAP. 11.
Of Blight.

Wheat is blighted at Two Seasons; First, when in the Blossom; and then its Generation is prevented and many of the Husks are empty in the Ear, the Grains not being impregnated.

Wwarmth is damaged at Two Seasons; First, when it's in bloom; and then its growth is stunted, leaving many of the husks empty on the ear, with the grains not being fertilized.

Secondly, Wheat is blighted, when the Grains are brought to the time of their Maturity, but are light, and of little Value for making of Bread; because they are not well filled with Flour.

Secondly, wheat is ruined when the grains reach maturity but are light and not very useful for making bread because they aren't fully filled with flour.

The First cannot happen in England by the Frost because the Winters do not suffer it to grow so much, as to come into Blossom before the Month of June; but they are long continual Rains that rot or chill the Blossoms, and prevent their Fertility. Yet this is what seldom happens to any great Degree. Wheat that grows in open Fields has some Advantage from the Wind, that dislodges the Water[144] sooner from the Ears, than it can do in sheltry Places; and Lammas Wheat does not hold the Drops of Rain so long as the Bearded (or Cone) Wheat, which received very great Damage by this sort of Blight in the Year 1725, the like never having been heard of before.

The First cannot happen in England because the frost prevents it from growing enough to bloom before June. Instead, long periods of continuous rain rot or chill the blossoms and stop them from being productive. However, this rarely happens to a significant extent. Wheat that grows in open fields benefits from the wind, which helps disperse the water from the ears faster than it would in sheltered areas. Additionally, Lammas wheat doesn’t hold onto rain droplets as long as Bearded (or Cone) wheat does, which suffered extensive damage from this type of blight in 1725, an occurrence that had never been reported before.

The Second sort of Blight, viz. from light Ears, is that which is most frequent, and more general: This brings the greatest Scarcity of Wheat. The Cause is plainly Want of Nourishment to perfect the Grain, by whatever means that Want is occasioned.

The second type of blight, that is, from light ears, is the most common and widespread. This leads to the greatest shortage of wheat. The cause is clearly a lack of nourishment needed to fully develop the grain, regardless of how this lack occurs.

Several Accidents kill the Plants, or injure their Health, and then the Grains are not filled; as Lightning, the Effects whereof may be observed by the blackish Spots and Patches in Fields of Wheat, especially in such Years as have more of it than usual. Against this there is no Defence.

Several accidents can kill plants or harm their health, which prevents the grains from filling properly. Lightning is one cause, and its effects can be seen as blackish spots and patches in wheat fields, especially in years when there’s more lightning than usual. There's no defense against this.

The other Causes of the Blight, which are most general, and do the most Damage, may, in some measure, be prevented.

The other causes of the blight, which are the most common and cause the most damage, can, to some extent, be prevented.

One Cause is the lodging or falling of Corn; for then the Stalks are broken near the Ground, whereby many of the Vessels are so pressed, that the Juices cannot pass them; and then the free Circulation is hindered; the Chyle cannot mount in sufficient Quantity to be purified, and turned into Sap; the Defect whereof makes the Plants become languid, and only just able to live; they have Strength enough to linger on to the time of their Period, as in very old Age, but not to bring their Fruit, which is the Grain, to its natural Bulk, nor to fill it with Flour: and the sooner the Stalks fall, the less and thinner the Grain will be.

One reason is the lodging or falling of corn; when that happens, the stalks break near the ground, which puts pressure on many of the vessels, preventing the juices from passing through. This disrupts the circulation; the chyle can't rise in enough quantity to be purified and turned into sap. This deficiency makes the plants weak and barely able to survive. They have just enough strength to hang on until their time is up, similar to someone in very old age, but they can't produce their fruit, which is the grain, to its natural size, nor can they fill it with flour. The earlier the stalks fall, the smaller and thinner the grain will be.

Hence it often happens, that when Tillage, Dung, and good Land have brought a Crop of Wheat, that in the Months of April and May promise to yield the Owner Five or Six Quarters on an Acre, then in June it falls down, and scarce[145] affords Five or Six Bushels; and that perhaps is so thin and lank, that the Expence of reaping and threshing it may overbalance its Value.

So, it often happens that when farming, manure, and good soil yield a crop of wheat, promising the owner five or six quarters per acre in April and May, by June it collapses and barely produces five or six bushels; and that might be so sparse and thin that the cost of harvesting and threshing could exceed its worth.

That the falling down of Wheat does cause the Ruin of the Crop, is well known; but what causes it to fall, is not so plain.

That the falling of wheat leads to the ruin of the crop is well known; but what causes it to fall is not so clear.

And, without knowing the true Causes, ’tis not likely that a Remedy should be found against the Disease.

And, without understanding the true causes, it’s unlikely that a remedy will be found for the disease.

I take this Weakness of the Stalks, which occasions their falling, to proceed from want of Nourishment, want of Air, want of the Sun’s Rays, or of all Three.

I believe this weakness of the stalks, which causes them to fall, is due to lack of nourishment, lack of air, lack of sunlight, or a combination of all three.

One Argument, that it lodges for want of Nourishment, is, that a rich Acre has maintain’d a Crop of Five Quarters standing, when another poorer Acre was not able to support a Crop from falling, which was but large enough to have brought Three Quarters, if it had stood: and this in the same Year, and on the same Situation. And ’tis very plain, that if one Acre was twice as rich as the other, it must be able to nourish Five Quarters better than the other could nourish Three Quarters.

One argument for why it fails due to lack of nutrients is that a fertile acre has sustained a crop of five quarters standing, while another less fertile acre couldn't even support a crop from falling, which would have been just enough to yield three quarters if it had remained intact. This was all in the same year and in the same location. It's clear that if one acre is twice as rich as the other, it should be able to support five quarters better than the other could manage three quarters.

Air is necessary to the Life and Health of all Plants, tho’ in very different Degrees: Aquatics, which live under Water, are content with as little Air, as their Companions the Fishes.

Air is essential for the life and health of all plants, though to varying degrees: aquatic plants, which live underwater, are fine with much less air than their counterparts, the fish.

But Wheat, being a terrestrial Plant, (tho’ in Winter it will live many Days under Water, whilst the slow Motion of its Sap gives it little or no Increase), requires a free open Air, and does not succeed so well in low sheltery Places, as upon higher and opener Situations; where the Air has a greater Motion, and can more easily carry off the Recrements from the Leaves, after it has shaken off the Dews and Rains, which would otherwise suffocate the Plants; and therefore the Leaves are made so susceptible of Motion from the Air, which frees them from[146] the Dews, that would stop in the Recrements at the Vesiculæ of the Leaves, but shaken down will nourish the Plants at the Roots: The want of this Motion weakening the Wheat, ’tis (as Animals in the like sickly Case are) the more unable to stand, and the more liable to be press’d down by the Weight of Rain-water, and more unable to rise up again when down: All which Evils are remov’d by the free Motion of the Air, which shakes off both Dews and Rains, and thus contributes to prevent the falling (or lodging) of Wheat.

But wheat, being a land-based plant, can survive underwater for many days in winter, but since its sap moves slowly, it doesn’t grow much. It needs open air and doesn’t thrive as well in low, sheltered areas as it does in higher, more open locations. There, the air circulates more freely and can easily carry away debris from the leaves after it shakes off the dew and rain that would otherwise suffocate the plants. The leaves are particularly sensitive to air movement, which helps get rid of dew that would get trapped in the leaf vesicles and instead nourishes the plants at the roots. When there isn’t enough air movement, wheat becomes weaker—just like sick animals—and is less able to stand, more likely to be weighed down by rainwater, and less capable of rising again if it falls. All these problems are resolved by the free movement of air, which shakes off both dew and rain and helps prevent wheat from flattening out or lodging.

A great Quantity also of the Sun’s Rays is necessary to keep Wheat strong, and in Health; and in Egypt, and other hot Countries, it is not so apt to fall, as it is when sown in Northern Climates, tho’ the Produce of the South be the greatest[152].

A large amount of sunlight is needed to keep wheat healthy and strong. In Egypt and other warm countries, it’s less likely to fail compared to when it’s grown in northern climates, although the yield from southern regions is the highest. [152]

[152]This proves that the Crop doth not lodge on account of its Bigness.

[152]This shows that the crop doesn't collapse because of its size.

It may be observ’d, that every Leaf is inserted into a Sort of Knot, which probably delivers the Sap to be depurated at the Vesiculæ of the Leaves, and then receives it back again for the Nourishment of the Plant, doing for that Purpose the Office of an Heart: But the Sun with his Rays supplies the Part of Pulse, to keep the Sap in Motion, and carry on its Circulation, instead of the Heart’s Systole and Diastole. Wheat, being doubtless originally a Native of a hot Country, requires by its Constitution a considerable Degree of Heat to bring it to Perfection; and if much of that Degree be wanting, the Wheat will be the weaker; and when the Solar Rays cannot reach the lower Parts of the Stalks, the lowest Leaves and Knots cannot do their Office; for which Reason the Chyle must mount higher before it be made into Sap, and there must be then a greater Mixture of crude Chyle next to the Ground, as by the white[147] Colour it appears[153]. By this Means that Part, which, if it had a due Share of the Sun’s Influence, would be harden’d like a Bone or Spring, for the Support of the Stalks, for lack of that, becomes more like to a Cartilage, soft and weak, unable to sustain the Weight of the bending Ear, which, having its greatest Impetus against this Part, which is most feeble to resist it, it yields, and lets it fall to the Ground; and then the Grain will be blighted.

It can be observed that every leaf is connected to a sort of knot, which likely delivers sap to be refined at the Vesiculæ of the leaves, and then takes it back for the nourishment of the plant, acting as a sort of heart. The sun, with its rays, provides the pulse needed to keep the sap flowing and support its circulation, functioning instead of the heart's systole and diastole. Wheat, which originally comes from a warm climate, naturally needs a significant amount of heat to reach its full potential; without sufficient heat, the wheat will be weaker. When the sun's rays can't reach the lower parts of the stalks, the lowest leaves and knots can't perform their function. As a result, the chyle has to rise higher before it's converted into sap, leading to a greater mixture of raw chyle near the ground, which is indicated by its white color. Because of this, the part that, with enough sunlight, would be hardened like bone or spring to support the stalks instead becomes more like cartilage—soft and weak—struggling to support the weight of the bending ear. When the greatest force is applied to this weakest part, it falls to the ground, causing the grain to be damaged.

[153]But now I suspect this to be a Mistake, it being more likely, that the white Colour of the Rind is owing to the Absence of the Sun and free Air, than to the Chyle, as the Skin of those Parts of our own Bodies that are concealed from them, is whiter than of those which are exposed to them, though no Chyle-vessel comes near our Skin.

[153]But now I think this might be a mistake, since it’s more likely that the white color of the rind is due to the lack of sunlight and fresh air, rather than to the chyle. The skin in parts of our own bodies that are covered is whiter than in areas that are exposed, even though no chyle vessels are close to our skin.

There is also another Cause of the Blight; and that is, the Wheat’s coming too late into Blossom. The usual Time is the Beginning of June; and if it be later, the Days shorten so fast after the Solstice, that the Autumn of the Year hastening the Autumn of the Wheat’s Life, the full Time of its Pregnancy[154] is not accomplish’d; and then its Fruit, which is the Grain, becomes as it were abortive, and not full-grown. This Time betwixt the Generation, Blossoming, and the Maturity of the Grain, is, or ought to be, about Two Months.

There’s also another reason for the blight: the wheat blooming too late. It usually happens around the beginning of June; if it’s later than that, the days get shorter quickly after the solstice. This rushes the wheat’s life cycle, and it doesn’t have enough time to fully mature before autumn kicks in. As a result, its fruit, which is the grain, becomes underdeveloped and not fully grown. The time between the growth, blooming, and ripening of the grain should ideally be about two months.

[154]Ut enim Mulieres habent ad Partum Dies certos, sic Arbores ac Fruges. Varro, Lib. 1. Cap. 44.

[154]Just as women have specific days for childbirth, so do trees and crops. Varro, Book 1. Chapter 44.

Mense Maio florent; sic Frumenta, & Ordeum, & quæ sunt Seminis singularis, Octo diebus florebunt, & deinde per Dies 40. grandescunt Flore deposito usque ad Maturitatis Eventum. Palladius, Pag. 114, 115.

In May, they bloom; so do wheat, barley, and other single-seed plants, which will bloom in eight days, and then for 40 days. they grow until the flowers fall off and they reach maturity. Palladius, Pag. 114, 115.

Quindecim Diebus esse in Vaginis, Quindecim florere, Quindecim exarescere, cum sit maturum Frumentum. Varro, Lib. 1. Cap. 32.

Fifteen days in the womb, fifteen days flourishing, fifteen days drying out, when the grain is ripe. Varro, Book 1. Chapter 32.

But the different Heat that there is in different Climates, may alter both the Time that Plants continue in Blossom, and the Time betwixt the Blossoming and the Ripening.

But the varying heat in different climates can change both how long plants stay in bloom and the time between blooming and ripening.

Therefore ’tis advantageous to hasten, what we can, the Time of Blossoming, and to protract the Time of[148] Ripening: And ’tis observ’d, that the earliest sown Wheat generally escapes the Blight the best, because it comes first into Blossom.

Therefore, it's beneficial to speed up what we can, the time of blossoming, and to delay the time of[148] ripening: And it’s noticed that the earliest sown wheat usually avoids the blight the best, because it blooms first.

Feeding down the Wheat with Sheep prevents the Blight, by doing what the Blight wou’d do, if the Wheat fell down, i. e. causes the Ears to be light[155].

Feeding sheep on the wheat keeps the blight away by doing the same thing the blight would do if the wheat fell, which is making the ears lighter. A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0.

[155]Heavy Ears never fall. If they did, that would not make them light. Wheat falls sometimes whilst ’tis in Grass, and before it comes into Ear; so far are the Ears from causing it to fall. This was proved by my whole Crop the last Harvest, and particularly by the Measured Acre, the Ears of which, tho’ prodigious large and heavy, were none of them lodg’d, when those of sown Wheat on the other Side of the Hedge were fallen down flat, and lodg’d on the Ground.

[155]Heavy ears of grain don’t fall. If they did, that wouldn’t make them light. Wheat sometimes falls while it's in the grass, and before it heads out; so the ears definitely don’t cause it to fall. This was shown by my entire crop last harvest, especially by the Measured Acre, where the ears, although incredibly large and heavy, didn’t fall at all, while those of the sown wheat on the other side of the hedge were flat on the ground.

And we find, that those who practise this Method of feeding their Wheat with Sheep in the Spring, to prevent the lodging of it, have most commonly their Straw weak, and Ears light.

And we find that those who use this method of feeding their wheat with sheep in the spring to prevent it from falling over generally end up with weak straw and light ears.

These, instead of making the Stalks strong enough to support heavy Ears, make the Ears light enough to be supported by weak Stalks. They know that heavy Ears make the greatest Crop; and yet they still hope to have it from light ones.

These, instead of making the stalks strong enough to support heavy ears, make the ears light enough to be held up by weak stalks. They know that heavy ears produce the best crop; and yet they still hope to achieve it with light ones.

They cause the Blight by the very means they make use of to cure it.

They cause the Blight through the same methods they use to cure it.

This feeding of Wheat much retards the Time of its blossoming; and that it may blossom early, is one chief End of sowing it early, to prevent the Blight. But when it is fed, what the Plants send up next is but a Sort of second or latter Crop, which has longer to stand than the first would have required, and is always weaker than the first Crop would have been; and the longer time it has to continue on the Ground, the more Nourishment is required to maintain it; and yet, as has been shewn, the longer it has been sown, the more the Earth has lost of its Nourishment; and[149] consequently, the Crop will be yet weaker, and in more Danger of the starving Blight[156].

Feeding wheat significantly delays its blooming time, and one of the main reasons for sowing it early is to prevent blight and encourage early flowering. However, when it's fed, what the plants produce next is like a second or later crop, which takes longer to grow than the first crop would have needed and is always weaker than what the first crop could have been. The longer it remains in the ground, the more nutrients it needs to sustain it, yet, as shown, the longer it has been sown, the more the soil has depleted its nutrients; therefore, the crop will be even weaker and at greater risk of the destructive blight. [149] A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

[156]I am sure, that whenever Sheep break into my drill’d Wheat in the Spring, it lessens my Crop half, just as far as they eat the Rows. There are several Reasons why Sheep are more injurious to drilled Wheat than sown; I would not therefore be understood to decry the Practice of seeding sown Wheat, when the Thickness and Irregularity of its Plants make it necessary: I have only endeavoured to shew, that that Practice is founded upon a false Theory. For, if Wheat fell down by reason of the Luxuriance of it; a Plant of it would be more likely to fall when single, and at a great Distance from every other Plant, than when near to other Plants, because such a single Plant is (cæteris paribus) always the most luxuriant; and I have not seen such a one fall (except Birds pull down the Ears), but have observed the contrary, though its Ears are the largest.

[156]I’m sure that whenever sheep get into my drilled wheat in the spring, it cuts my crop in half, depending on how much they eat from the rows. There are several reasons why sheep do more damage to drilled wheat than sown wheat; I don’t want to be seen as criticizing the practice of planting sown wheat, especially when the thickness and unevenness of its plants make it necessary. I’m just trying to point out that this practice is based on a flawed theory. If wheat falls over due to its lushness, a single plant is more likely to fall when it’s alone and spaced far from other plants than when it’s surrounded by them because such a single plant (all other things being equal) is always the most lush. I haven’t seen such a plant fall over (unless birds pull down the ears), but I’ve actually observed the opposite, even though its ears are the largest.

The Subject I write on is Drilling and Hoeing, and of whatsoever else I think relates to the Practice or Theory thereof; which obliges me to advise against Drilling too thick upon any Sort of Land; but more especially upon very rich Land: For though I have no such Land, yet I apprehend, that a too great Number of Plants may overstock the Rows, and cause them to be liable to some of the Inconveniences of sown Wheat; and in such a Case, perhaps, Sheep may be rather useful than prejudicial to the drilled Wheat; but of this I have had no Experience: And if it should be too thick, it will be owing to the Fault of the Manager or Driller; but, I suppose, it might be a better Remedy to cut out the superfluous Plants by the Hand-hoe, in the manner that superfluous Turneps are hoed out.

The topic I'm writing about is drilling and hoeing, as well as everything else I believe is related to the practice or theory of it. I must advise against drilling too densely on any type of land, especially on very fertile land. Even though I don't have such land, I think that having too many plants can overcrowd the rows and make them susceptible to some of the problems associated with sown wheat. In cases like this, sheep might actually be beneficial rather than harmful to the drilled wheat, but I haven't experienced this myself. If it ends up being too dense, it would be the fault of the manager or driller. However, I think it might be better to remove the excess plants with a hand hoe, similar to how surplus turnips are hoed out.

The most effectual Remedy against the Blight is that which removes all its Causes (except such extraordinary ones as Lightning); as,

The most effective cure for the blight is the one that eliminates all its causes (except for unusual ones like lightning); as,

First, Want of Nourishment.

The Horse-hoe will, in wide Intervals, give Wheat, throughout all the Stages of its Life, as much Nourishment as the discreet Hoer pleases.

The horse hoe will, at wide intervals, provide wheat with as much nourishment throughout all stages of its life as the careful farmer decides.

Secondly, Want of Air.

Air, being a Fluid, moves most freely in a right or strait Line; for there the fewest of its Parts meet with any Resistance; as a strait River runs swifter than a crooked one, from an equal Declivity; because more of the Water strikes against the Banks at[150] the Turnings, and is there somewhat retarded: and the rest moving no faster than in the strait River, the whole Stream of the crooked must be slower in its Course, than that of the strait River.

Air, being a fluid, moves most freely in a straight line because there’s less resistance from its parts. Just like a straight river flows faster than a winding one with the same slope, since more water hits the banks at the bends and slows down a bit. The rest of the water doesn’t move any faster than in the straight river, which means the overall flow of the winding river is slower than that of the straight river.

The Air cannot pass thro’ sown Corn in a direct Line, because it must strike against, and go round every Plant, they standing all in the Way of its Course, which must stop its Current near the Earth.

The air can't move directly through a field of corn because it has to hit each plant and go around them, as they are all in the way of its path, which slows it down close to the ground.

And the Air amongst sown Corn is like Water amongst Reeds or Osiers in the Side of a River; it is so stopp’d in its Course, that it almost becomes an Eddy; and since Air is about Eight hundred Times lighter than Water, we may suppose its Current thro’ the Corn is more easily retarded, especially near the Earth, where the Corn has occasion for the greatest Quantity of Air to pass: For, tho’ the upper Part of the Wheat be not able to stop a slow Current of Air, yet it does so much raise even a swift one, as to throw it off from the Ground, and hinder it from reaching the lower Parts of the Stalks, where the Air must therefore remain, in a manner, stagnant; and the thicker the Wheat is, where it stands promiscuously, the less Change of Air can it have, tho’ the greater the Number of the Stalks is, the more fresh Air they must require.

And the air among growing corn is like water among reeds or willows by a riverbank; it is so blocked in its flow that it almost creates an eddy. Since air is about eight hundred times lighter than water, we can assume its movement through the corn is more easily slowed down, especially near the ground, where the corn needs the most air to flow through. Even though the top part of the wheat can't stop a slow current of air, it does elevate even a fast one enough to push it away from the ground, preventing it from reaching the lower parts of the stalks, where the air must, in a way, become stagnant. The denser the wheat is, growing close together, the less air movement it can have, even though the greater the number of stalks, the more fresh air they need.

But the confused Manner in which the Plants of sown Wheat stand, is such, that they must all oppose the free Entrance of Air amongst them, from whatever Point of the Compass it comes.

But the tangled way in which the sown wheat plants stand is such that they all block the free flow of air among them, no matter which direction it comes from.

Now it is quite otherwise with Wheat drill’d regularly with wide Intervals; for therein the Current of Air may pass freely (like Water in a strait River, where there is no Resistance), and communicate its Nitre to the lower as well as upper Leaves, and carry off the Recrements they emit, not suffering the Plants to be weakened, as an Animal is, when his Lungs are forc’d to take back their own Expirations, if debarr’d from a sufficient Supply of fresh untainted Air. And[151] this Benefit of fresh Air is plentifully, and pretty equally, distributed to every Row in a Field of ho’d Wheat.

Now it’s completely different with wheat that’s planted with wide spacing; the airflow can move freely (like water in a narrow river where there’s no blockage) and deliver nutrients to both the lower and upper leaves. It also helps remove the waste they produce, preventing the plants from getting weak, similar to how an animal struggles when its lungs have to re-inhale their own breath if they don’t get enough fresh, clean air. And[151] this advantage of fresh air is well-distributed and fairly equal for every row in a field of cultivated wheat.

Thirdly, Want of the Sun’s Rays.

Sown Wheat-plants, by their irregular Position, may be said to stand in one another’s Light, for want of which they are apt to fall.

Sown wheat plants, because of their uneven placement, can be said to block each other's light, which makes them likely to fall.

’Tis true the whole Field of Plants receive the same Quantity of Sun-beams amongst them, whether they stand confusedly, or in Order: But there is a vast Difference in the Distribution of them; for none or the very least Share of Beams is obtain’d by those Parts which need the greatest Share, in the confused Plants. And when the crural Parts, that should support the whole Body of every Plant, are depriv’d of their due Share of what is so necessary to strengthen them, the Plants (like Animals in the same Case) are unable to stand.

It’s true that all plants in a field receive the same amount of sunlight, whether they are arranged haphazardly or in order. However, there is a huge difference in how this sunlight is distributed; the parts that need the most sunlight get little to none in the disorganized plants. When the root parts, which are meant to support the entire structure of each plant, are deprived of their necessary share of what’s essential to strengthen them, the plants (just like animals in the same situation) are unable to stand.

But in drill’d Wheat, where the Plants stand in a regular Order, the Sun-beams are more duly distributed to all Parts of the Plants in the Ranks; for which Way soever the Rows are directed, if they be strait, the Rays must, some time of the Day, fall on the Intervals, and be reflected by the Ground, whence the lower Parts of the Wheat-stalks must receive the greater Share of Heat, being nearest to the Point of Incidence, having no Weeds to shadow them.

But in cultivated wheat, where the plants are arranged in a regular order, the sunlight is more evenly distributed to all parts of the plants in the rows. No matter which direction the rows face, as long as they are straight, the rays will, at some point during the day, hit the spaces between them and bounce off the ground. This means that the lower parts of the wheat stalks will receive more heat since they are closest to where the rays hit and are not shaded by weeds.

As to that Cause of the Blight, viz. the Wheat’s dying before the full Time of its Pregnancy be accomplish’d; the Hoe removes all the Objections against planting early, and then it will blossom the earlier: And it has visibly kept Wheat green a whole Week longer, than unho’d Wheat adjoining to it, planted the same Day.

As for the cause of the blight, namely, the wheat dying before it's fully grown; using a hoe eliminates all the reasons against planting early, and it will bloom earlier. It's clearly shown that it keeps the wheat green for a whole week longer than the unhoed wheat next to it, which was planted on the same day.

The Antients were perfect Masters of the Vine-Husbandry, which seems to have so engross’d their rural Studies, that it did not allow them so much Reflection, as to apply the Use of those Methods to the[152] Increase of Bread, which they had discover’d to be most beneficial for the Increase of Wine. One Method was, to hoe the Vines after they had blossom’d, in order to fill the Fruit, as in Columella, Lib. iv. Cap. 28. Convenit tum crebris Fossionibus implere: nam fit ulterior Pulverationibus. And if what Palladius says, Tit. ix. be true of the Sarritions and Sarculations in the Month of January, and that if Beans do twice undergo that scratching Operation, they will produce much Fruit, and so large as to fill the Bushel almost as full when shal’d as unshal’d.

The Ancients were masters of viticulture, so focused on their agricultural practices that they didn't take the time to consider how to apply their methods to increasing grain production, even though they knew it would be beneficial. One technique was to hoe the vines after they had blossomed to enhance fruit development, as mentioned in Columella, Book IV, Chapter 28. It is suitable then to fill with frequent plowing: for it results in further pulverization. And if what Palladius states in Book IX is correct about the tilling and hoeing in January, then if beans go through that scratching process twice, they will yield a lot of fruit, and it will be large enough to nearly fill a bushel whether it’s shelled or unshelled.

Faba, si bis sarculetur, proficiet, & multum Fructum & maximum afferet, ut ad Mensuram Modii complendi fresa propemodum sicut Integra respondeat.

If it is planted twice, it will thrive and yield a great harvest, so much so that it will nearly fill a measure of grain, just as a whole plant would.

This is to be done when Beans are Four Fingers high, and Corn when it has Four or Five Leaves to a Plant; even then the Harrowing-work, tho’ it tore up some of the Plants, yet it was observ’d to do Good against the Blight.

This should be done when the beans are four fingers tall, and the corn has four or five leaves per plant; even then, while the harrowing might uproot some of the plants, it was noted to help against the blight.

Si siccas Segetes sarculaveris, aliquid contra Rubiginem præstitisti, maxime si Ordeum siccum sarrietur.

If you hoe dry crops, you've done something against rust, especially if you cultivate dry barley.

When the Antients observ’d this, ’tis a Wonder they did not plant their Corn so as to be capable of receiving this Benefit in Perfection. They might have imagin’d, that what was effectual against the Blight, when the Corn was in Grass, must, in all Probability, be much more effectual when in Ear.

When the Ancients saw this, it’s amazing they didn’t plant their corn in a way that could fully benefit from it. They might have thought that what worked against the blight when the corn was in grass would likely be even more effective when it was in ear.

But the most general Blight that happens to Wheat in cold Climates, is caused by Insects, which (some think) are brought in the Air by an East Wind accompanied with Moisture, a little before the Grain is filling with that milky Juice, which afterwards hardens into Flour. These Insects deposit their Eggs within the outer Skin (or Rind) of the Stalks; and when the young ones are hatched, they feed on the Parenchyma, and eat off many of the Vessels which should make and convey this Juice; and then the Grain will be more or less thin, in Proportion to the[153] Number of Vessels eaten, and as the Insects happen to come earlier or later; for sometimes they come so late, that the Grain is sufficiently fill’d with the said milky Juice before the Vessels are eaten; and then, tho’ the Straw appear thro’ a Microscope to have its Vessels very much eaten and torn, and to be full of black Spots (which Spots are nothing else but the Excrements of those young Insects), yet the Grain is plump, and not blighted, there being an Observation, That the early sown Wheat generally escapes this Blight. And it has been seen, where one Part of a Field is sown earlier than the other Part, without any other Difference than the Time of sowing, that the Grain of the latest sown has been much blighted, and the Grain of the earlier has escaped the Blight, tho’ the Straw of both were equally eaten by the Insects. Hence it may be inferr’d, that the Milk in the one had receiv’d all the Nourishment necessary to its due Consistence, before the Vessels were destroy’d; but, in the other, the Vessels, which should have continued the Supply of Nourishment for thickening the Milk, being spoil’d before they have finish’d that Office, it remains too thin; and then the Grain, when it hardeneth, shrinks up, and is blighted; yet the Grain of one and the other are equally plump until they become hard: The Difference therefore is only in the Thickness of the Milk, that in the blighted being more watery than the other.

But the most common issue that Wheat faces in cold climates is caused by insects, which some believe are carried in the air by an east wind that brings moisture, just before the grain starts filling with a milky juice that later hardens into flour. These insects lay their eggs within the outer skin (or rind) of the stalks; and when the young ones hatch, they feed on the parenchyma and destroy many of the vessels that are supposed to produce and transport this juice. As a result, the grain will be thinner or thicker depending on how many vessels are eaten and when the insects arrive; sometimes they show up so late that the grain is already filled with the milky juice before the vessels are destroyed. Then, even though the straw appears through a microscope to have its vessels heavily eaten and torn, and is full of black spots (which are actually the droppings of those young insects), the grain remains plump and unharmed. There's a notable observation that early-sown wheat generally avoids this issue. It's been observed that if one part of a field is sown earlier than another part, with no other differences except the time of sowing, the later-sown grain is often much more affected, while the earlier-sown grain escapes the damage, even though both straws have been equally consumed by insects. This suggests that the milk in the earlier-sown grain received all the necessary nourishment for its proper consistency before the vessels were destroyed. Meanwhile, in the later-sown grain, the vessels that should have continued supplying nourishment to thicken the milk were ruined before they completed their job, leaving it too thin; thus, when the grain hardens, it shrinks and becomes blighted. However, both grains appear equally plump until they harden: the only difference lies in the thickness of the milk, with the blighted grain being more watery than the other.

The chief Argument to prove, that these Insects are brought by an East Wind, is, that the Wheat on the East Sides of Hedges are much blighted, when that on the West Sides is not hurt: And as to the Objection, that they are bred in the Earth, and crawl thence up the Stalks of the Wheat, because some Land is much more subject to produce blighted Wheat than other Land is; perhaps this Difference may be chiefly owing to the different Situation of those Lands, as they are opposed to the East, or to the West.

The main argument to show that these insects are brought in by an East Wind is that the wheat on the east sides of hedges is heavily damaged, while the wheat on the west sides isn't affected. As for the counterargument that they come from the ground and crawl up the stalks of the wheat, the fact that some land is much more prone to producing damaged wheat than other land might be mainly due to the different locations of those lands in relation to the East or the West.

[154]

[154]

Another Cause why some Wheat is more blighted than other Wheat on the same Land, is, the different Condition in which the Insects find it; for the Rind of that which is very strong and flourishing[157] is soft and tender; into this they can easily penetrate to lay their Eggs; but the Wheat that is poor and yellow, has an hard tough skin (or Rind), into which the Insects are not able to bore for the Intromission of their Eggs, and therefore can do it no Mischief. It would be in vain to advise to prevent the Blight, by striving to make the Wheat poor; for tho’ Poverty may preserve Wheat from this Blight, as well as it does People from the Gout, yet that is a Remedy which few take willingly against either of these Diseases: But this, I think, might be possible to remedy it, if we could, from the strongest Wheat, take away so much Nourishment as to turn its Colour[158] a little yellowish just before the Insects come[159] which I suppose to be in June, after the Ear is out, or at least fully formed.

Another reason why some wheat is more affected than other wheat in the same field is the different conditions in which the insects find it. The skin of healthy, thriving wheat is soft and tender, making it easy for insects to penetrate and lay their eggs. In contrast, poor, yellow wheat has a hard, tough skin that insects can't bore into to lay their eggs, so they can't cause any damage. It would be pointless to suggest preventing blight by trying to make the wheat poor; while being poor may protect wheat from blight just as it protects people from gout, that's not a remedy most would choose willingly for either condition. However, I believe it might be possible to remedy this if we could remove enough nutrients from the strongest wheat to make its color slightly yellowish just before the insects arrive, which I think happens in June, after the ear has emerged or is at least fully formed.

[157]Some Sort of Land is more subject to this Blight than others; in such, Lammas Wheat must by no means be drill’d late, and too thin, lest it should not tiller till late in the Spring; and then, for want of a sufficient Quantity of Stalks to dispense with all the Nourishment rais’d by the Hoe, may become too vigorous and luxuriant, and be the more liable to the Injury of the Blight of Insects.

[157]Some types of land are more affected by this blight than others; on these lands, Lammas Wheat should definitely not be sown late or too thinly, so it can tiller in early Spring. If it's sown too late and doesn't have enough stalks to use up all the nutrients brought up by the hoe, it may grow too lush and strong, making it more vulnerable to damage from insect blight.

[158]But this is a very difficult Matter.

[158]But this is a very challenging issue.

[159]Whither those Insects go, or where they reside, from the Time of their eating their Way out of the Straw, until they return the next Year, I cannot learn.

[159]I have no idea where those insects go or where they live from the time they burrow out of the straw until they come back the next year.

Yet this can only be done in wide Intervals; for, unless the fine Earth can be thrust to some considerable Distance from the Roots after they are cut off, they will soon shoot out again, and reach it, becoming more vigorous thereby.

Yet this can only be done over wide intervals; because, unless the good soil can be pushed far away from the roots after they’ve been cut off, they will quickly grow back and reach it, becoming stronger as a result.

In dry Summers this Misfortune seldom happens, much Heat, and very little Moisture, being most agreeable to the Constitution of Wheat; for then its Rind[155] is more firm and hard, as it is, on the contrary, made more soft and spongy by too much Moisture.

In dry summers, this misfortune rarely occurs, as a lot of heat and very little moisture is best for wheat. During this time, its skin[155] is firmer and tougher, while too much moisture makes it softer and spongier.

The most easy and sure Remedy, that I have yet found against the Injury of these Insects, is, to plant a Sort of Wheat that is least liable to be hurt by them; viz. The White-cone (or bearded) Wheat, which has its Stalk or Straw like a Rush, not hollow, but full of Pith (except near the lower Part, and there ’tis very thick and strong): ’Tis probable it has Sap-Vessels that lie deeper, so as the young Insects cannot totally destroy them, as they do in other Wheat: For when the Straw has the black Spots, which shew that the Insects have been there bred, yet the Grain is plump, when the Grey-cone and Lammas Wheat mixt with it are blighted. This Difference might have been from the different times of ripening, this being ripe about a Week earlier than the Grey-cone, and later than the Lammas: But its being planted together both early and late, and at all Times of the Wheat-seed Time, and this White-cone always escaping with its Grain unhurt, is an Argument, that ’tis naturally fortify’d against the Injury of these Insects, which in wet Summers are so pernicious to other Sorts of Wheat; and I can impute it to no other Cause than the different Deepness of the Vessels, the Straw of other Wheat being very much thinner, and hollow from Top to Bottom; this having a small Hollow at Bottom, and there the Thickness betwixt the outer Skin and the Cavity is more than double to that in other Sorts of Wheat; so that I imagine, the Insects reach only the outermost Vessels, and enough of the inner Vessels are left untouch’d to supply the Grain.

The easiest and most reliable solution I've found against the damage from these insects is to plant a type of wheat that's less affected by them; namely, the White-cone (or bearded) Wheat, which has a stalk or straw that resembles a rush—it's not hollow but filled with pith (except near the bottom where it's very thick and strong). It's likely that it has deeper sap vessels, making it hard for young insects to completely destroy them, unlike other wheat varieties. When the straw has black spots indicating insect breeding, the grain remains plump, while the Grey-cone and Lammas wheat mixed with it get ruined. This difference might come from their ripening times, as the White-cone is ready about a week earlier than the Grey-cone and later than the Lammas. However, since it was planted both early and late, and at all times suitable for wheat planting, and the White-cone consistently survives with unharmed grain, it suggests that it's naturally protected against the damage caused by these insects, which can be very harmful to other wheat types during wet summers. I can only attribute this advantage to the deeper vessels, as the straw of other wheat varieties is much thinner and hollow from top to bottom; the White-cone has a small hollow at the bottom, and the thickness between the outer skin and the cavity is more than double that of other wheat types. So, I believe the insects only reach the outermost vessels, leaving enough of the inner vessels untouched to supply the grain.

This Wheat makes very good Bread, if the Miller does not grind it too small, or the Baker make his Dough too hard, it requiring to be made softer than that of other Flour.

This wheat makes really good bread, as long as the miller doesn’t grind it too finely and the baker doesn’t make the dough too tough; it needs to be softer than dough made from other flours.

A Bushel of this White-cone Wheat will make more Bread than a Bushel of Lammas, and of the[156] same Goodness; but it gives a little yellow Cast to the Bread.

A bushel of this white-cone wheat will make more bread than a bushel of Lammas, and it’s just as good; however, it gives the bread a slightly yellow tint.

Another Sort of lodging Blight there is, which some call Moar-Loore, and mostly happens on light Land. This is when the Earth, sinking away from the Roots, leaves the Bottom of the Stalk higher than the subsided Ground; and then the Plant, having only these naked Roots to support it (for which they are too weak), falls down to the Earth.

Another type of lodging issue is what some call Moar-Loore, and it mostly occurs on light soil. This happens when the ground sinks away from the roots, making the bottom of the stalk sit higher than the lowered ground. As a result, the plant is left with only these exposed roots to support it, which are too weak, and it falls to the ground.

To remedy this, turn a shallow Furrow against the Rows, when they are strong enough to bear it, and when the Mould is very fine and dry; then the Motion of the Stalks by the Wind will cause such Earth to run through the Rows, and settle about the Roots, and cover them[160].

To fix this, create a shallow furrow against the rows when they're sturdy enough to support it, and when the soil is very fine and dry; then the movement of the stalks in the wind will cause the soil to flow through the rows, settle around the roots, and cover them[160].

[160]Some Land is very subject to the Misfortune of exposing the Roots, and therefore is less proper for Wheat; for when the Roots are left bare to the Air, they will be shrivelled, and unable to support the Plants: And on such Land the Wheat plants have all fallen down, though in Number and Bigness not sufficient to have produced the Fourth Part of a tolerable Crop, if they had stood. I am inclined to believe, that a thorough Tillage might be a Remedy to such a loose hollow Soil; for ’tis certain to a Demonstration, that it would render it more dense, and increase its specific Gravity: But to enrich it sufficiently without Manure, the Tillage must pulverize it much more minutely, and expose it longer, than is required for the strongest Land: The Fold also will be very helpful on such hollow Land.

[160]Some land is very prone to the problem of exposing the roots, making it less suitable for wheat. When the roots are exposed to the air, they shrivel up and can’t support the plants. In such areas, the wheat plants have all fallen down, and even though there are a lot of them, their size isn’t enough to have produced even a quarter of a decent crop if they had stayed upright. I believe that proper tilling could help this loose, hollow soil; it's clear that it would make it denser and increase its specific gravity. However, to enrich it enough without fertilizer, the tilling needs to break it down much finer and expose it for a longer time than is necessary for stronger soil. Grazing livestock would also be very beneficial on such hollow land.

I have never seen any drill’d Wheat so much spoil’d by falling, as sewn Wheat sometimes is. The drill’d never falls so close to the Ground, but that the Air enters into Hollows that are under it, and the Wind keeps the Ears in Motion. Notwithstanding all the Precaution that can be used, in some unseasonable Years Wheat will be blighted: I have known such a general Blight, when some of my Lammas Wheat, planted late on blighting Land, was blighted, amongst the rest of my Neighbours, by the Insects, but the Grain of the sown Wheat was vastly more injured[157] than that of the drill’d: The former was so light, that the greatest Part was blown away in winnowing, and the Remainder so bad, that it was not fit to make Bread: The drill’d made as good Bread, and had as much Flour in it, as the sown Wheat had, that was not blighted; for the Grains of the drill’d were much larger than those of the sown; being form’d to have been twice as big as the Grains of Wheat generally are, had they not been blighted.

I have never seen drilled wheat get spoiled by falling as much as sown wheat sometimes does. Drilled wheat never falls so close to the ground that the air can't get into the spaces below it, and the wind keeps the ears moving. Despite all the precautions that can be taken, in some unfavorable years, wheat will get blighted. I’ve seen a general blight affect some of my late-planted Lammas wheat on blighted land, which was affected along with the rest of my neighbors by insects, but the grain from the sown wheat suffered a lot more than that from the drilled. The former was so light that most of it was blown away during winnowing, and the remainder was so bad that it wasn't fit for making bread. The drilled wheat made just as good bread and had as much flour in it as the sown wheat that wasn’t blighted because the grains of the drilled wheat were much larger than those of the sown, being formed to be twice as big as wheat grains usually are, had they not been blighted.


CHAP. 12.
Of St. Foin.

St. Foin, from the Country we brought it from, is call’d French Grass: And for its long Continuance, some having lasted Forty Years, ’tis call’d Everlasting Grass, tho’ it be not strictly a Gramen.

St. Foin, from the country we got it from, is called French Grass: And for its longevity, with some lasting up to forty years, it’s referred to as Everlasting Grass, although it isn’t technically a Gramen.

’Tis call’d in French, Sain Foin, i. e. Sanum Fœnum, from its Quality of Wholsomeness, beyond the other artificial Grasses, green and dry. ’Tis also call’d Sanctum Fœnum, Holy Hay.

It’s called in French, Sain Foin, meaning Sanum Fœnum, from its quality of being healthier than other artificial grasses, both green and dry. It’s also referred to as Sanctum Fœnum, Holy Hay.

’Tis a Plant so generally known to every Body, that there is no need to give any formal Description of that Part of it which appears above-ground, It has many red Flowers, sometimes leaving Ears Five or Six Inches long: I have measured the Stalks, and found them above Five Feet long, tho’ they are commonly but about Two Feet.

It’s a plant so widely recognized by everyone that there’s no need for a formal description of the part that grows above ground. It has many red flowers and sometimes produces ears that are five or six inches long. I’ve measured the stalks and found them to be over five feet long, although they are usually about two feet.

The Reason why St. Foin will, in poor Ground, make a Forty times greater Increase than the natural Turf, is the prodigious Length[161] of its perpendicular[158] Tap-root: It is said to descend Twenty or Thirty Feet. I have been inform’d, by a Person of undoubted Credit, that he has broken off one of these Roots in a Pit, and measured the Part broken off, and found it fourteen Feet.

The reason why St. Foin will produce forty times more yield in poor soil than natural turf is its incredibly long vertical taproot. It’s said to reach down twenty or thirty feet. I’ve been told by someone trustworthy that he has broken off one of these roots in a pit, measured the part that broke off, and found it to be fourteen feet long.[158]

[161]There is a vulgar Opinion, that St. Foin will not succeed on any Land, where there is not an under Stratum of Stone or Chalk, to stop the Roots from running deep; else, they say, the Plants spend themselves in the Roots only, and cannot thrive in those Parts of them which are above the Ground. I am almost ashamed to give an Answer to this.

[161]There's a common belief that St. Foin won't do well in any soil without an underlying layer of stone or chalk to prevent the roots from going too deep; otherwise, they argue, the plants will focus all their energy on the roots and won't flourish above ground. I feel a bit embarrassed to respond to this.

’Tis certain that every Plant is nourished from its Roots (as an Animal is by its Guts); and the more and larger Roots it has, the more Nourishment it receives, and prospers in proportion to it. St. Foin always succeeds where its Roots run deep; and when it does not succeed, it never lives to have long Roots; neither can there ever be found a Plant of it, that lives so long as to root deep in a Soil that is improper for it: Therefore ’tis amazing to hear such Reasoning from Men.

It's certain that every plant gets its nourishment from its roots (just like an animal does from its insides); and the more and larger roots it has, the more nourishment it gets, and it thrives accordingly. St. Foin always flourishes where its roots go deep; and when it doesn’t thrive, it never grows long roots; nor can there ever be a plant of it that lives long enough to root deeply in soil that isn't right for it. Therefore, it's astonishing to hear such reasoning from people.

An under Stratum of very strong Clay, or other Earth, which holds Water, may make a Soil improper for it; because the Water kills the Root, and never suffers it to grow to Perfection, or to attain to its natural Bulk. The best St. Foin that ever I saw, had nothing in the Soil to obstruct the Roots, and it has been found to have Roots of a prodigious Depth. If there be Springs near (or within several Feet of) the Surface of the Soil, St. Foin will die therein in Winter, even after it has been vigorous in the first Summer; and also after it hath produced a great Crop in the second Summer.

An underlying layer of very strong clay or other earth that holds water can make soil unsuitable for it because the water can kill the roots, preventing them from growing fully or reaching their natural size. The best St. Foin I've ever seen had no obstructions in the soil for the roots, and it has been found to have roots of incredible depth. If there are springs close to or just a few feet below the surface of the soil, St. Foin will die there in the winter, even if it thrived the first summer and produced a large crop the second summer.

This Tap-root has also a Multitude of very long horizontal Roots at the upper Part thereof, which fill all the upper Stratum, or Staple of the Ground; and of thousands of St. Foin Roots I have seen taken up, I never found one that was without horizontal Roots near the Surface, after one Summer’s Growth; and do much wonder how Mr. Kerkham should be so mistaken, as to think they have none such.

This taproot also has a bunch of very long horizontal roots at the top, which fill all the upper layer of the ground. Out of the thousands of sainfoin roots I've seen dug up, I’ve never found one that didn't have horizontal roots near the surface after one summer of growth. I really wonder how Mr. Kerkham could be so mistaken as to think they don’t have any.

Also these Tap-roots have the horizontal ones all the Way down; but as they descend, they are still shorter and shorter, as the uppermost are always the longest.

Also, these taproots have horizontal ones all the way down; but as they go deeper, they get shorter and shorter, with the uppermost ones always being the longest.

Any dry Ground may be made to produce this noble Plant, be it never so poor; but the richest Soil will yield the most of it, and the best.

Any dry ground can be made to grow this noble plant, no matter how poor; but the richest soil will produce the most and the best.

[159]

[159]

If you venture to plant it with the Drill, according to the Method wherein I have always had the best Success; let the Land be well prepared before you plant it. The Seed, if not well ordered, will very little of it grow; therefore ’tis convenient to try it in the manner mention’d in the Chapter of Hoeing; where are also Directions to find the proper Quantity and Depth to plant it at: I have observ’d, that the Heads of these Seeds are so large, and their Necks so weak[162], that if they lie much more than half an Inch[163] deep, they are not able to rise through the incumbent Mould; or if they are not cover’d, they will be malted[164]. A Bushel to an Acre is full twenty Seeds to each square Foot, in all I try’d; but there is odds in the Largeness of it, which makes some Difference in the Number.

If you plan to plant it with the Drill, using the method where I've always had the best success, make sure the land is well prepared before you plant it. The seed, if not properly taken care of, won’t grow much; so it's a good idea to try it the way I mentioned in the Chapter of Hoeing; which also has instructions on the right quantity and depth to plant it. I've noticed that the heads of these seeds are quite large, and their necks are so weak[162], that if they lie more than half an inch[163] deep, they can't push through the soil above them; or if they aren't covered, they will rot[164]. A bushel per acre translates to about twenty seeds for each square foot, in all I tested; but there's variation in their size, which causes some differences in the quantity.

[162]The Kernel or Seed, being much swollen in the Ground, I call the Head: This, when it reaches above the Ground, opens in the Middle, and is formed into the Two first Leaves; the Husk always remaining at the same Depth at which it is cover’d: The String that passes from the Husk to the Head, is the Neck; which, when by its too great Length ’tis unable to support the Head till it reaches to the Air, rises up, and doubles above it; and when it does so, the Head, being turn’d with its Top downwards, never can rise any higher, but there rots in the Ground.

[162]The kernel or seed, which swells a lot in the ground, is what I call the head. When it grows above the ground, it splits in the middle and forms the first two leaves. The husk stays at the same depth it was buried. The string connecting the husk to the head is the neck; when it becomes too long to support the head until it reaches the air, it bends and folds over. Once that happens, the head, now inverted with its top facing down, can’t rise any higher and eventually rots in the ground.

[163]In very light Land the Seed will come up from a greater Depth; but the most secure Way is, not to suffer it to be cover’d deep in any Land.

[163]In very light soil, the seed will sprout from a greater depth; but the safest approach is not to let it be buried too deeply in any soil.

[164]We say it is malted, when it lies above-ground, and sends out its Root, which is killed by the Air. And whether we plant bad Seed that does not grow, or good Seed buried or malted, the Consequence will be much the same, and the Ground may be equally understock’d with Plants.

[164]We call it malted when it’s above ground, sending out its roots, which get damaged by the air. And whether we plant bad seeds that don’t grow or good seeds that are buried or malted, the outcome will be pretty much the same, and the soil might be just as lacking in plants.

The worst Seasons to plant it are the Beginning of Winter, and in the Drought of Summer. The best Season is early in the Spring.

The worst times to plant it are the beginning of winter and during the summer drought. The best time is early spring.

’Tis the stronger when planted alone, and when no other Crop is sown with it[165].

It’s stronger when planted alone and when no other crop is grown with it__.

[165]The worst Crop that can be sown amongst St. Foin, is Clover or Rye-Grass; Barley or Oats continue but a little while to rob it; but the other artificial Grasses rob it for a Year or Two, until the artificial Pasture is near lost; and then the St. Foin never arrives to half the Perfection as it will do when no other Grass is sown amongst it.

[165]The worst crop that can be planted with St. Foin is Clover or Rye-Grass; Barley or Oats only take from it for a short time, but the other artificial grasses compete with it for a year or two until the artificial pasture is almost depleted. After that, the St. Foin never reaches even half of its potential compared to when no other grass is planted alongside it.

The Injury these Hay-crops do to the St. Foin is best seen where some Parts of the same Field have them, and the other Parts are without them.

The damage these hay crops cause to the St. Foin is easiest to observe in areas of the same field where they are present and in areas where they are not.

[160]

[160]

If Barley, Oats, or other Corn sown with St. Foin, do lodge, it will kill[166] the young St. Foin that is under it: But then so great a Crop of Corn will certainly answer the very little Expence of drilling the St. Foin again, either the next Year, or as soon as the Corn is off the Ground.

If Barley, Oats, or other grains sown with St. Foin fall over, it will kill the young St. Foin underneath it. However, such a large crop of grains will definitely make up for the small cost of reseeding the St. Foin either the following year or as soon as the grains are harvested.

[166]When Barley, among which the St. Foin is planted in a dry Summer, is great, there are few Farmers that know till the next Spring, whether the St. Foin succeeds or not; because the young Plants are not then visible; unless it be to those who are accustomed to observe them in all the Degrees of their Growth. I have seen a Field of Ten Acres of such, wherein, after the Barley was carried off, nothing appeared like St. Foin; but when by the Print of the Chanels I searched diligently, I found the small St. Foin Plants thick enough in the Rows; they had no Leaves, they being cut off by the Scythe; no Part of them that was left had any Green Colour; but from the Plants there came out many Sprigs like Hog’s Bristles, or like the Beard of Barley: This whole Piece of St. Foin succeeded so well, that the Third Year its Crop was worth Three Pounds per Acre, the Land being good.

[166]When barley is grown in a dry summer where St. Foin is planted, very few farmers can tell by the next spring if the St. Foin is thriving or not; the young plants aren’t visible unless you’re someone who knows how to recognize them at all stages of growth. I’ve seen a ten-acre field where, after the barley was harvested, it didn’t look like any St. Foin was there at all. But when I closely examined the rows based on the print of the channels, I found plenty of tiny St. Foin plants packed together; they had no leaves left since they had been cut by the scythe, and the remaining parts were all brown. However, from these plants sprouted many thin shoots that looked like hog bristles or barley beards. This entire section of St. Foin did so well that by the third year, its yield was worth three pounds per acre, because the land was good.

St. Foin drill’d betwixt Rows of Barley or Oats, always is stronger than when drill’d amongst Corn that is sown at random; and therefore is in less Danger of being kill’d by the Lodging of the Corn; neither is the Corn in Rows so liable to fall as the other.

St. Foin drilled between rows of barley or oats is always stronger than when drilled among randomly sown corn. Therefore, it is less likely to be damaged by the lodging of the corn, and the corn in rows is also less prone to falling compared to the other.

The Quantity of Seed to be drill’d on an Acre will depend, in great Measure, upon the Goodness of it; for in some bad Seed, not more than One in Ten will grow; and in good Seed, not One in Twenty will miss; which is best known by stripping off the Husks of a certain Number of Seeds, and planting the Kernels in Earth, in the manner directed for[161] finding the proper Depth to plant at, which, in this Case, let be half an Inch: This being done, the Quality of the Seed will be known. But until frequent Trials have furnish’d Experience enough to the Planter to know the Difference, let him observe, that the following are good Signs; viz. The Husk of a bright Colour, the Kernel plump, of a light-grey or blue Colour, or sometimes of a shining black; yet the Seed may be good, tho’ the Husk is of a dark Colour, if that is caused by its receiving Rain in the Field, and not by heating in a Heap, or in the Mow; and if you cut the Kernel off in the Middle, cross-ways, and find the Inside of a Greenish fresh Colour, it’s surely good; but if of a yellowish Colour, and friable about the Navel, and thin, or pitted, these are Marks of bad Seed.

The amount of seed to be planted per acre will largely depend on its quality; with poor seed, only about one in ten may grow, while with good seed, only one in twenty is likely to fail. You can determine the quality of the seed by removing the husks from a certain number of seeds and planting the kernels in soil, as instructed for[161] finding the right planting depth, which in this case should be half an inch. Once this is done, you'll know the quality of the seed. However, until you have enough experience from frequent trials to tell the difference, you should look for the following good signs: the husk should be bright in color, the kernel should be plump and either light gray, blue, or sometimes a shiny black. The seed can still be good even if the husk is dark, as long as that darkness is due to rain exposure in the field and not overheating in a pile or in the mow. If you cut the kernel in half and see a fresh, greenish inside, it's definitely good. If it's yellowish, crumbly around the navel, and thin or pitted, these are signs of bad seed.

The Quantity, or rather Number of Seeds convenient to drill, ought to be computed by the Number of Plants[167] we propose to have for making the best Crop, allowing for Casualties[168].

The amount, or rather number of seeds suitable for drilling, should be calculated based on the number of plants[167] we plan to have for achieving the best crop, accounting for losses[168].

[167]Not that we need to be so exact as to the Number of Plants, whether they be Two, Three, or Four hundred upon a square Perch. Neither is it possible to know beforehand the precise Number of Plants that may live; for sometimes the Grub kills many, by eating off the first Two Leaves.

[167]We don’t need to be super precise about the number of plants, whether it’s two, three, or four hundred in a square perch. It’s also not possible to know in advance exactly how many plants will survive; sometimes, grubs end up killing many by eating the first two leaves.

[168]Many even of the best of Seeds, both sown and drill’d, are liable to Casualties, but not equally; for about Twenty-eight Years ago, my Servants (being prime Seedsmen) had a Fancy in my Absence to try an Experiment of the Difference betwixt sowing and drilling of St. Foin; and in the Middle of a large Field of my best Land they sow’d a square Piece of Three Acres, at the Rate of One Bushel to an Acre, not doubting but, by their skill in sowing even, it would succeed as well as if drill’d; but it succeeded so much against their Expectation, that the Land all round it, which was drill’d at the same Time, with the same Proportion of the same Seed, brought extraordinary good Crops of St. Foin; but the sow’d Part was so very thin, that tho’ it lay still with the rest for Eight Years, it never was a Crop, there not being above Three or Four upon a square Perch, taking the Three Acres all together: Not that it can be supposed, that the sown would always meet with so many Casualties as this did; for then Eight Bushels sown to an Acre might have been too thin, and much thinner than all the rest of the Field was, tho’ drill’d with only One Bushel to an Acre: And ’tis often seen, that when an Acre is sown with seven Bushels of Seed, the St. Foin is as much too thick, as that sown with One Bushel was too thin.

[168]Many of even the best seeds, whether sown or drilled, are prone to issues, but not equally. About twenty-eight years ago, my workers (who were experienced seed merchants) decided to conduct an experiment in my absence to compare sowing versus drilling St. Foin. In the middle of a large field of my finest land, they sowed a square piece of three acres at a rate of one bushel per acre, confident that their expertise in even sowing would yield results as good as if it had been drilled. However, the outcome was so unexpected that the surrounding land, which had been drilled at the same time with the same amount of the same seed, produced exceptionally good crops of St. Foin. In contrast, the sown area was so sparse that even after eight years of remaining undisturbed, it never produced a viable crop, having no more than three or four plants per square perch when considering the entirety of the three acres. It shouldn’t be assumed that sown seeds will always face as many issues as this one did; otherwise, sowing eight bushels per acre might have been too sparse and significantly thinner than the rest of the field, which was drilled with only one bushel per acre. It’s often observed that when an acre is sown with seven bushels of seed, the St. Foin becomes as overly dense as that sown with one bushel was too sparse.

I do not know, that of the many hundred Acres of St. Foin, that have been drill’d for me, ever one Acre was too thin, except when planted with Wheat: The young Plants were kill’d by the Frost.

I don't know if any of the many hundred acres of St. Foin that have been cultivated for me were ever too thin, except when they were planted with wheat: the young plants were killed by the frost.

[162]

[162]

In drilling St. Foin not to be ho’d, and before the Ploughs of my Drill were so perfect in making narrow Chanels as they are now (for, when the Chanels were open, they had Six times the Breadth, wherein Part of the Seed was wasted), then my Quantity was One Bushel to an Acre, sometimes Six Gallons.

In drilling St. Foin not to be hoed, and before the Plows of my Drill were so effective in creating narrow channels as they are now (because, when the channels were open, they were six times the width, which wasted some of the seed), my amount was one bushel per acre, sometimes six gallons.

But a single Acre (in the middle of a large Field of St. Foin) being drill’d late in October, the frosty Winter kill’d at least Nineteen of Twenty Parts[169] of that Bushel. At first it made such a poor Appearance, that ’twas by mere Accident, or it had been plow’d up for a Fallow; but, missing of that, a few Plants were perceiv’d in the Summer, which by their Singleness grew so vigorous, and so very large, that the Second Year of Mowing it[170] produc’d a Crop double to the rest of the same Field, which was drill’d in the Spring, with the same Proportion of Seed, and none of it kill’d: tho’ all this Field was a much better Crop than some that was sown in the common Manner, with Seven Bushels to an Acre. I have generally observ’d the thin[171] to make the best Crop, after the First or Second Year.

But a single acre (in the middle of a large field of St. Foin) was drilled late in October, and the frosty winter killed at least nineteen out of twenty parts[169] of that bushel. At first, it looked so poor that it seemed like it might have been plowed up for fallow; but then, during the summer, a few plants were seen, and they grew so robust and large on their own that in the second year of mowing it[170], it produced a crop double that of the rest of the same field, which had been drilled in the spring with the same amount of seed, and none of it was killed. Even though the entire field was a much better crop than some that was sown in the usual manner, with seven bushels to an acre. I have generally noticed that the thinner[171] makes the best crop after the first or second year.

[169]But I believe, there might remain alive Three or Four Plants to each square Yard, standing single, and at pretty equal Distances.

[169]But I believe there might still be three or four plants in each square yard, each standing alone and at pretty equal distances.

[170]But Note, This Acre was dunged, and in better Order than the rest.

[170]But Note, This Acre was fertilized and in better condition than the rest.

[171]But, notwithstanding I commend the Planting of St. Foin thin, that most of the Roots may be single; yet I have Fields that were drill’d with but Four Gallons of Seed to an Acre; and yet the Rows being Seven Inches asunder, the Roots are so thick in them, that the Ground is cover’d with the St. Foin Plants, which seem to be as thick (in Appearance) as most sown St. Foin, whereon Seven or Eight Bushels are sown on an Acre. And I have other Fields that were drill’d with about Two Gallons of Seed to an Acre (which is Five Seeds to each square Foot), the Rows Sixteen Inches asunder, that produce better Crops, tho’ the Ground be poorer. The drill’d St. Foin, being regular, is more single, tho’ as thick as the sown; and for that Reason always makes a better Crop, and lasts longer than the sown that is of the same Thickness, but irregular.

[171]But, even though I recommend planting St. Foin thinly so that most of the roots are single, I have fields where I used just Four Gallons of seed per acre. Even with rows spaced Seven Inches apart, the roots are so dense that the ground is covered with St. Foin plants, appearing as thick as most traditionally sown St. Foin, where Seven or Eight Bushels are sown per acre. I also have other fields that were drilled with about Two Gallons of seed per acre (which is Five seeds per square foot) with rows spaced Sixteen Inches apart, producing better crops, despite the ground being poorer. The drilled St. Foin is more uniform and single, yet just as dense as the sown version; for that reason, it consistently yields better crops and lasts longer than the unevenly sown version of the same density.

[163]

[163]

I have also often observ’d in Lands of St. Foin, lying dispersed in a common Field (but where there was not Common for Sheep), and where the Ends of other Lands kept in Tillage, pointed against the Pieces of St. Foin, and the Horses and Ploughs turning out upon the St. Foin[172] did plow and scratch out a Multitude of its Plants; so that it was thought to be spoil’d, and Law-suits were intended for Recompence of the Damage; that afterwards this scratch’d Part, supposed to be spoil’d, became twice as good as the rest of the same Pieces, where the Ploughs did not come to tear up any Plants.

I have also often noticed in fields of St. Foin, scattered throughout a common area (but where there was no common land for sheep), that the edges of other cultivated fields were positioned against the St. Foin patches. When the horses and plows worked on the St. Foin, they ended up plowing and uprooting many of its plants. It was thought to be ruined, and lawsuits were considered for compensation for the damage. However, that scratched area, which was believed to be damaged, ended up being twice as productive as the other parts of the same fields where the plows didn’t disturb any plants.

[172]This Plowing and Scratching was a sort of Hoeing, which helped the St. Foin by a small Degree of Pulveration, as well as by making the Plants thinner.

[172]This plowing and scratching was a type of hoeing that aided the St. Foin through a slight degree of soil breakup, as well as by thinning out the plants.

The Reason why the single St. Foin Plants make the greatest Crops, is, that the Quantity of the Crop is always in Proportion to the Quantity of Nourishment it receives from the Earth; and those Plants which run deepest will receive most; and such as are single will run deeper than those which are not single.

The reason single St. Foin plants produce the best crops is that the amount of the crop is always proportional to the nourishment they get from the soil; those plants that grow deeper will get the most nutrients, and single plants will grow deeper than those that are not single.

Also the single do send out all round them horizontal Roots, proportionably stronger and larger, whereby they are better able to penetrate, and extract more Nourishment from the Staple, or upper Stratum, than the other can do, if there be a competent Number; which is, when ho’d, fewer than any-body[164] imagines. ’Tis common to see a single St. Foin have a bigger Tap-root than Twenty thick ones: Their Length is in Proportion to their Bigness: Therefore that single Plant may well be supposed to have Twenty times more Depth of Earth to supply it, than all those Twenty small Roots can reach to. And tho’ these under Strata are not so rich as the upper; yet, never having been drain’d by any Vegetable, they do afford a very considerable Quantity of Nourishment to those Roots which first enter them.

Also, a single plant sends out horizontal roots that are proportionately stronger and larger, which allows them to penetrate better and extract more nutrients from the soil or upper layer than the others can, if there are enough of them; which is often fewer than anyone thinks. It’s common to see a single sainfoin have a bigger taproot than twenty thick ones: Their length is proportional to their size. Therefore, that single plant can be assumed to have twenty times more depth of soil to draw from than all those twenty small roots can reach. And although these deeper layers aren’t as rich as the upper ones, since they haven't been drained by any plant, they still provide a significant amount of nourishment to those roots that first penetrate them.

The small thick Plants are so far from equalling the Product of the single, by their Excess of Number, that the more they are, the smaller, shorter, and weaker they become; less Nourishment they have, and the less Crop they produce; and are soon starv’d, decay, and die, unless reliev’d by the Expence of frequent Manure, or that the Soil be very rich.

The small, thick plants are so far from matching the yield of the single plant due to their excessive numbers that the more there are, the smaller, shorter, and weaker they become; they have less nourishment and produce fewer crops; and they soon get starved, decay, and die, unless they receive regular fertilizer or the soil is very rich.

Single Plants exceed the other by a Multitude of Degrees, more than a Giant does a Dwarf, in Strength, as well as Stature; and therefore when natural Grass happens to come, are so much the better able to shift amongst it.

Single plants surpass others by many degrees, much like a giant outmatches a dwarf, both in strength and size; therefore, when natural grass appears, they are much better equipped to thrive among it.

The single Plants seem also to exceed the other in their Longevity; for ’tis observ’d, that all St. Foin that has continu’d great for a good Number of Years without Manure, has been so single, that the Owners have determined to plow it up at the Beginning, for the Thinness of it.

The individual plants also seem to outlive the others; it has been noted that all St. Foin that has thrived for many years without fertilizer has been so sparse that the owners have decided to plow it up at the beginning because of its thinness.

How long this may last by Culture, I can’t tell; but undoubtedly much longer than without it; and I can say, that I never knew a Plant of St. Foin die a natural Death; the most common End of it is Starving. And when an hundred thick Plants have not the Nourishment which One single Plant has, ’tis no Wonder that these (in a Croud[173] thus besieg’d with Hunger) should be starv’d before it.

How long this might last with culture, I can't say; but definitely much longer than without it; and I can tell you, I’ve never seen a Plant of St. Foin die a natural death; the most common way they end up is starving. And when a hundred thick plants lack the nourishment that one single plant gets, it's no surprise that those (in a crowd[173] besieged by hunger) will starve before it.

[173]Sown Plants, when too thick, are crouded on every Side; but those that are drill’d, have always Room enough on Two Sides of them; unless the Rows are too near together.

[173]Crowded plants, when planted too closely, will be cramped on all sides; but those that are spaced out in rows always have enough room on two sides, unless the rows are too close together.

[165]

[165]

Another Advantage the single have, in respect of Moisture: These reach to a Depth where that is never wanting, even when the upper Stratum or Staple is parch’d up, as appears by the Experiment of the Mints, that if any Root of a Plant has Moisture, that Root will communicate a Share to all the rest. Hence it is, that, in the driest Summer, these single Plants make a great Crop, when the other yield next to nothing. I remember I once saw a Farmer coming out of a Ground with a Load of St. Foin Hay, which he assured me was all he could find worth cutting, out of Forty Acres of this thick sort, in full Perfection, Three Years after sowing: He valued his Load at Three Pounds; but withal said it came off so much Ground, that the Expence of Mowing, Raking, &c. was more than the Value; when, in the very same dry Summer, there was Three Tun of St. Foin to an Acre in a Field[174], where it was drill’d single and regularly.

Another advantage single plants have regarding moisture is that they reach a depth where it’s always available, even when the top layer is completely dried out. This is demonstrated by the experiment with mints: if any root of a plant has moisture, that root will share it with the others. Because of this, in the driest summers, single plants produce a great crop, while others barely yield anything. I remember seeing a farmer come out of a field with a load of St. Foin hay, which he told me was all he could find worth cutting from forty acres of this thick type, perfectly grown three years after sowing. He estimated his load at three pounds, but he also mentioned that the cost of mowing, raking, etc., was more than the load's value. Meanwhile, in the very same dry summer, there were three tons of St. Foin per acre in a field [174] where it was sown single and evenly.

[174]This was on rich deep Land in Oxfordshire; and the other St. Foin, which was so poor, was on thin Slate Land near Causham in Wiltshire in the Bath Road. It is now about Forty Years since.

[174]This was on rich, fertile land in Oxfordshire; and the other St. Foin, which was so poor, was on poor slate land near Causham in Wiltshire along the Bath Road. It’s been about forty years since then.

And I have often observ’d, that where the Plants are thin, the Second Crop of them springs again immediately after cutting; when Plants that stand thick in the same Ground, spring not till Rain comes; and I have seen the thin grown high enough to cut the Second time, before the other began to spring.

And I've often noticed that where the plants are sparse, a second crop sprouts right after cutting; while plants that are densely packed in the same area don’t start growing again until it rains. I've seen the thin ones grow tall enough to be cut a second time before the others even began to sprout.

The best way to find what Number of these Plants it is proper to have on a Perch of Ground, is to consider what Quantity of Hay one large Plant will produce (for, if cultivated, they will be all such).

The best way to determine how many of these plants to have on a plot of land is to consider how much hay a single large plant will produce (since, if cultivated, they will all be large).

Without Culture these Plants never attain to a Fourth Part of the Bulk they do with it: Therefore very few have seen any one Plant at its full Bigness. One Plant, well cultivated, has in the same Ground[166] made a greater Produce, than One thousand small ones uncultivated.

Without proper care, these plants never reach even a quarter of their size compared to when they are cultivated. As a result, very few people have seen a single plant at its full size. One well-cared-for plant in the same area[166] can produce more than a thousand uncared-for small ones.

But the Hay of a large single cultivated Plant will weigh more than half a Pound; and 112 Plants upon a square Perch, weighing but a Quarter of a Pound apiece one with another, amount to Two Tun to an Acre.

But the hay from a large single cultivated plant will weigh more than half a pound; and 112 plants on a square perch, weighing an average of a quarter of a pound each, add up to two tons per acre.

If St. Foin be planted on some sorts of Land early in the Spring, and ho’d, it may bring a Crop the same Summer; for I once planted a few Seeds of it on sandy Ground in my Garden, at the End of February, which produced large Plants above Two Feet high, that went into Blossom the following June; tho’ there was a severe Frost in March, which kill’d abundance of Wheat, yet did not hurt these Plants: This shews that St. Foin is a quick Grower, unless it be planted on poor cold Ground, or for Want of Culture.

If St. Foin is planted in certain types of soil early in the spring and tended to, it can yield a crop the same summer. I once planted a few seeds in sandy soil in my garden at the end of February, which grew into large plants over two feet tall that bloomed the following June. Although there was a harsh frost in March that killed a lot of wheat, it didn’t harm these plants. This shows that St. Foin grows quickly, unless it’s planted in poor, cold soil or neglected.

And tho’ the poor Land, and ill Management generally allotted to it, cause it to yield but One mowing Crop a Year; yet it has yielded Two great ones on rich sandy Land, even when sown in the common ordinary matter.

And though the poor land and poor management typically given to it cause it to produce only one mowing crop a year, it has managed to yield two good ones on rich sandy land, even when planted with the usual ordinary seeds.

Thin St. Foin cannot be expected to cover all the Ground at first, any more than an Orchard of Apple-trees will, when first planted at Thirty Feet Distance from each other every Way; yet this is reckon’d a proper Distance to make a good and lasting Orchard. But if these should be planted at Three Feet Distance, as they stand in the Nursery, it would not be more unreasonable than the common Method of sowing St. Foin is; and there would be much the same Consequence in both, from covering all the Ground at first Planting; except that the St. Foin, being abundantly longer rooted downwards than Apple-trees are, has the greater Disadvantage, when by its Thickness ’tis[167] prevented from growing to its full Bulk, and Length of Roots[175].

Thin St. Foin can’t be expected to cover all the ground right away, just like an orchard of apple trees won’t when they’re first planted thirty feet apart in every direction; yet this distance is considered right for establishing a good and lasting orchard. But if these were planted three feet apart, like they are in the nursery, it wouldn’t be any more unreasonable than the usual method of sowing St. Foin; and the outcome would be pretty similar in both cases, with everything being covered at the initial planting. The difference is that St. Foin, having much longer roots than apple trees, faces a bigger disadvantage when its thickness prevents it from growing to its full size and root length.

[175]Horizontal-rooted Plants suffer no greater Injury by their Pasture’s being over-stock’d than Cattle do; because their Pasture lying near the Surface of the Ground, they have it all amongst them: But St. Foin, and other long Tap-rooted Plants suffer yet more, because great Part of their over-stock’d Pasture is lost by them all, when they hinder one another from reaching down to it, by shortening one another’s Roots, which they do when they all become Dwarfs by reason of their Over-thickness.

[175]Horizontal-rooted plants don't suffer any more harm from overcrowding in their pasture than cattle do; since their pasture is close to the surface, they can access it all. However, St. Foin and other long tap-rooted plants suffer even more because a significant part of their overcrowded pasture gets lost to them all. They block each other from reaching down to it by stunting one another's roots, causing them to all become stunted due to their excessive density.

The Difference is only this: People are accustom’d to see Apple-trees planted at their due Distance: but few have seen St. Foin planted and cultivated at the Distance most proper to St. Foin; or ever consider’d about it, so much as to make the necessary Trials.

The difference is just this: People are used to seeing apple trees planted at the right distance, but few have seen St. Foin planted and grown at the distance that's best for it; or have even thought about it enough to conduct the necessary experiments.

I have constantly found, that, upon doubling any Number of narrow Rows, having equal Number of Plants in each Row, the Crops have been very much diminish’d; and, upon leaving out every other Row, that is, lessening the Number of Rows to half, the Crops are increased; and where Two Rows are wide asunder at one End of a Piece, and near at the other End, the Plants are gradually less and less, as the Rows approach nearer together.

I’ve consistently noticed that when I double the number of narrow rows, with the same number of plants in each row, the crops decrease significantly. However, when I remove every other row, reducing the total number of rows by half, the crops actually improve. Additionally, where there are two rows wide apart at one end of a plot and closer together at the other end, the number of plants decreases gradually as the rows get nearer to each other.

We ought never to expect a full Crop of St. Foin the First Year[176], if we intend to have good Crops afterwards, and that it shall continue to produce such, for the same Reasons that must be given for planting an Orchard at other Distances than a Nursery.

We should never expect a full crop of alfalfa in the first year if we want good crops later on, and for it to keep producing, for the same reasons that support planting an orchard at different distances than a nursery.

[176]But when it has been planted on rich sandy Land, and proper, it has produced very great Crops the first Year; but then the Summer wherein it grew amongst the Barley, must not be reckoned as the first Year.

[176]But when it's been planted in rich sandy soil, it has produced very high yields in the first year; however, the summer it grew alongside the barley shouldn't be counted as the first year.

The common Error proceeds from mistaking the Cause of a great or small Crop.

The common mistake comes from confusing the reason for a large or small harvest.

Where the Spaces betwixt Rows are wide (if there be not too many Plants in them) we always see the St. Foin grow large, and make the greatest Crop; but when ’tis young, or after cutting, we see room[168] (as we fansy) for more of such Plants, to make a yet larger Crop; not considering that ’tis the Wideness of those Spaces, and less Number of Plants, that cause the Crop to be so large, there being more Pasture for those Plants.

Where the spaces between rows are wide (if there aren’t too many plants in them), we always see St. Foin grow large and produce the biggest crop; but when it’s young, or right after cutting, we think there’s room[168] for more of these plants to create an even bigger crop. We fail to realize that it’s actually the width of those spaces and the smaller number of plants that lead to such a large crop, as there’s more pasture available for those plants.

Where these Spaces are narrower, and the Rows of equal Thickness, we see the Plants less when grown, and that they make a less Crop; and yet there seems to be room for more Rows, which we fansy might make the Crop larger, not considering that ’tis the Narrowness of those Spaces that causes the Plants and Crop to be less, for want of sufficient Pasture.

Where these spaces are narrower, and the rows are the same thickness, we notice that the plants are less visible when grown, and that they yield a smaller harvest. Yet, there seems to be room for more rows, which we think might increase the harvest, not realizing that it’s the narrowness of those spaces that leads to fewer plants and a smaller yield due to a lack of sufficient pasture.

Thus, fondly increasing the Number of our Rows and Plants, we bring our Crop (unless the Soil be rich) to nothing, by too much over-stocking their Pasture; and, if that Pasture be over-stock’d, the Crop will be diminish’d more than in proportion to that Over-charge; for perhaps ’tis not impossible to prove (if we would be curious), that Plants, by wanting a Fourth Part of their due Quantum of Nourishment, will be diminish’d to half[177] of the Bulk they would have attained to, had they been supply’d with the other Fourth Part.

Thus, by affectionately increasing the number of our rows and plants, we end up reducing our crop (unless the soil is rich) to almost nothing by overcrowding their pasture. And if that pasture is overcrowded, the crop will decrease more than proportionately to that excess; for it might not be impossible to show (if we cared to examine) that plants, lacking a quarter of their necessary amount of nourishment, will be reduced to half of the size they would have reached if they had received that extra quarter.

[177]When Plants have not their due Nourishment, they suffer the more by Cold and Drought; so that want of Nourishment diminishing their Growth One-fourth, Cold, or Drought, or both, may diminish it another fourth.

[177]When plants don’t get the nutrients they need, they suffer more from cold and drought. If a lack of nutrients reduces their growth by a quarter, then cold, drought, or both could further reduce it by another quarter.

I have observ’d ho’d St. Foin to grow more, and increase its Bulk more, in Two Weeks, than unho’d St. Foin in the same Ground (and without any other Difference) hath done in Six Weeks; and the quicker it grows, by being better fed, the sweeter and richer Food it will make for Cattle, whether it be spent green or dry[178].

I have observed that hoed St. Foin grows and increases in size more in two weeks than unhoed St. Foin does in the same ground (with no other differences) in six weeks; and the faster it grows from better nourishment, the sweeter and richer food it will produce for cattle, whether it is used fresh or dried. A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__.

[178]Cattle are the best Judges of the Goodness of Grass, and they always choose to feed on St. Foin that is most vigorous, and refuse that which is poor and yellow. And the richest sweetest Grass will always make the best Hay; for the drying of it does not change the Quality of the Grass.

[178]Cattle are the best judges of good grass, and they always prefer to eat the healthiest St. Foin, turning away from the poor, yellow stuff. The richest, sweetest grass will always produce the best hay because drying it doesn't affect the quality of the grass.

[169]

[169]

At whatever Distance the Rows be set, if they have too many Plants in them, the Crop will be very much injured; and the greater the Excess is beyond the just Number, the more void Space there will be amongst them; because the smaller the Plants are, the less Ground they cover.

At any distance the rows are spaced, if there are too many plants in them, the crop will be seriously damaged; and the greater the excess beyond the proper number, the more empty space there will be among them; because the smaller the plants are, the less ground they cover.

I have had the Experience of drilling at all Distances, from Thirty-three Inches to Seven Inches, betwixt the Rows; and recommend the following Distance, for the different Methods of drilling; whether the St. Foin be design’d for hoeing, or not. As,

I have had the experience of drilling at all distances, from thirty-three inches to seven inches between the rows, and I recommend the following distance for the different methods of drilling, whether the St. Foin is intended for hoeing or not. As,

First, For Horse-hoeing, I think it is best to drill double Rows with Eight-inch Partitions, and Thirty-inch Intervals; which need only be ho’d alternately, leaving every other Interval for making the Hay thereon.

First, for Horse-hoeing, I think it’s best to drill double rows with eight-inch spaces and thirty-inch intervals; these only need to be hoed alternately, leaving every other interval for making hay there.

Indeed I have never yet had a whole Field of ho’d St. Foin; but have enough to shew, that Horse-hoeing makes it strong upon very poor Land, and causes it to produce two Crops a Year upon indifferent Land.

Indeed, I have never had an entire field of St. Foin; but I have enough to show that horse-hoeing strengthens it on very poor soil and enables it to produce two crops a year on average land.

It is not necessary to hoe this every Year; but we may intermit the Hoeing for three or four Years together, or more, if the Land be good.

It’s not necessary to hoe this every year; we can skip hoeing for three or four years in a row, or even longer if the land is good.

Whilst the Plants are small the first Year, Care must be taken not to cover them with the Plough: Afterwards there will be no great Danger, especially in Winter, the Earth not being suffered to lie on them too long.

While the plants are small in the first year, care must be taken not to cover them with the plow. After that, there will be little danger, especially in winter, as long as the soil isn’t allowed to stay on them for too long.

Secondly, For Hand-hoeing, drill the Rows Sixteen Inches asunder, and single out the Plants, so as to make them Eight Inches apart at least in the Rows, contriving rather to leave the Master-plants, than to be exact in the Distance: This must be done whilst they are very young, or in Summer; else they will come again that are cut off by the Hoe.

Secondly, for Hand-hoeing, space the rows sixteen inches apart, and thin out the plants so that they are at least eight inches apart within the rows, trying to keep the strongest plants instead of focusing too much on the exact distance. This should be done while the plants are still very young or during summer; otherwise, those cut down by the hoe will regrow.

Lastly, when St. Foin is drill’d without any Intention of hoeing, the best Way (I think) is to plant single Rows, at Eight Inches Distance, with no greater Quantity of Seed, than when the Rows are at Sixteen Inches Distance; because, by this Method, the[170] same Number of Plants in the Rows, that are but Eight Inches apart, will be much more single, than those in the Rows at Sixteen Inches apart are, without being set out by the Hoe.

Lastly, when St. Foin is sown without any plan for hoeing, the best way (in my opinion) is to plant single rows, spaced eight inches apart, using no more seeds than you would if the rows were spaced sixteen inches apart. This way, the same number of plants in rows that are just eight inches apart will be much more distinct than those in rows that are sixteen inches apart, without needing to be thinned out with a hoe.

Which of these Methods soever is practis’d, the Land should be made as clean from all Grass, and as well pulveriz’d, as possible, before Drilling.

Whichever method is used, the land should be as clear of grass and as well-tilled as possible before drilling.

The Tines of the Drill-harrow must exactly follow the Shares, which leaving the Chanels open, the Tines cover the Seed, some at Bottom, and some on each Side; so that it is cover’d very shallow, tho’ it lies deep within the Ground, where there is more Moisture, than nearer to the upper level Surface: This causes the Seed to come up in dry Weather; and yet it is not in Danger of being buried by a too great Weight of Mould incumbent on it.

The tines of the drill-harrow must perfectly follow the shares, which leave the channels open while the tines cover the seed—some at the bottom and some on each side—so that it is covered very lightly, even though it lies deep in the ground where there’s more moisture than closer to the surface. This allows the seed to sprout in dry weather, and it isn’t at risk of being buried under too much soil on top of it.

But take heed that no other Harrow come on it after ’tis drill’d; for that might bury it. I never care to roll it at all, unless on account of the Barley; and then only in very dry Weather, with a light Roller, lengthways of the Rows, immediately after ’tis drill’d; or else stay Three Weeks afterwards before it be roll’d, for fear of breaking off the Heads of the young St. Foin.

But be careful that no other Harrow is used on it after it’s drilled; that could bury it. I don’t usually care to roll it at all, except for the Barley; and even then, only in very dry weather, using a light Roller along the rows, right after it’s drilled; or else wait three weeks afterwards before rolling it to avoid breaking off the heads of the young St. Foin.

Be sure to suffer no Cattle to come on the young St. Foin the first Winter[179], after the Corn is cut[171] that grows amongst it; their very Feet would injure it, by treading the Ground hard, as well as their Mouths by cropping it; Nor let any Sheep come at it, even in the following Summer and Winter.

Be sure to keep any cattle away from the young St. Foin the first winter [179], after the corn is harvested[171] that grows among it; their very feet would damage it by compacting the soil, as well as their mouths by eating it. Also, don’t let any sheep near it, even in the following summer and winter.

[179]The first Winter is the Time to lay on Manure, after the Crop of Corn is off; such as Peat-Ashes, or the like; because, there being no natural Grass to partake of it, and the Plants being less, less will supply them; and because, when made strong in their Youth, they will come to greater Perfection: But I never used any Manure on my St. Foin, because mine generally had no Occasion for Manure before it was old; and Soot is seldom to be had of sufficient Quantity in the Country; and little Coal is burnt hereabouts, except by the Smiths, whose Ashes are not good. The Price and Carriage of Peat-Ash will be Ten Shillings for an Acre, which would yet be well bestowed in a Place where Hay is vendible; but, by reason of the great Quantity of watered Meadows, and Plenty of St. Foin, Clover, and Hay, raised of late Years by Farmers for their own Use, here are now few or no Buyers of Hay, especially these open Winters; so that laying out Money in that Manner would be in Effect to buy what I cannot sell. I think it better to let a little more Land lie still in St. Foin, than to be at the Expence of Manure; but yet shall not neglect to use it, when I shall find it likely to be profitable to me.

[179]The first winter is the time to spread manure after the corn harvest, such as peat ashes or similar products. Since there’s no natural grass to absorb it and the plants are fewer, less will be needed. When the plants are well-nourished in their early growth, they’ll reach greater maturity. However, I’ve never used manure on my St. Foin because mine usually didn't require it until it was older. Plus, soot is rarely available in sufficient amounts around here, and not much coal is burned locally, except by the smiths, whose ashes aren’t good. The cost and transportation of peat ash would be ten shillings per acre, which might be worth it in a place where hay sells well; but due to the large number of irrigated meadows and an abundance of St. Foin, clover, and hay that farmers have been growing for their own needs recently, there are now few or no buyers for hay, especially in these mild winters. Spending money in that way would essentially mean buying something I can’t sell. I think it’s better to let a bit more land remain in St. Foin rather than incur the costs of manure, but I won’t hesitate to use it when I find it likely to be beneficial.

One Acre of well-drill’d St. Foin, considering the different Goodness of the Crops, and the Duration of it, is generally worth Two Acres of sown St. Foin on the same Land, tho’ the Expence of drilling be Twenty Times less than the Expence of sowing it.

One acre of well-drilled St. Foin, taking into account the quality of the crops and how long it lasts, is usually worth two acres of sown St. Foin on the same land, even though the cost of drilling is twenty times less than the cost of sowing it.

One of the Causes why St. Foin, that is properly drill’d, lasteth longer[180] without Manure than the sown, is, That the former neither over nor understocks the Pasture; and the latter commonly, if not always, doth one or the other, if not both; viz. Plants too thick in some Places, and too thin in others; either ’tis not single, but in Bunches; or if it be single, ’tis too thin; it being next to impossible to have the Plants come true and regular, or nearly so, by sowing at random. Plants too thick soon exhaust the Pasture they reach, which never is more than a small Part of that below the Staple: When the Plants are too thin, the St. Foin cannot be said to last at all, because it never is a Crop.

One of the reasons why St. Foin, when properly drilled, lasts longer [180] without fertilizer than seeded grass is that the former doesn’t over or understock the pasture; whereas the latter often does one or the other, if not both. Specifically, some areas have plants that are too dense while others have them too sparse; sometimes they grow in clumps instead of being spaced out, and when they are spaced out, they are too thin. It's nearly impossible to achieve consistent and regular plant growth by broadcasting seeds at random. When the plants are too dense, they quickly deplete the pasture they cover, which is only a small part of what’s below the staple. If the plants are too sparse, the St. Foin can't be said to last at all because it never really becomes a viable crop.

[180]I have now a great many single St. Foin Plants in my Fields, that are near Thirty Years of Age, and yet seem as young and vigorous as ever; and yet it is common for thick St. Foin to wear out in Nine or Ten Years, and in poor Land much sooner, if not often manured by Soot, Peat-Ash, or Coal-Ash.

[180]I have a lot of individual St. Foin plants in my fields that are nearly thirty years old and still look as young and strong as ever. It's usually the case that dense St. Foin wears out in nine or ten years, and in poor soil, it happens even sooner, unless it’s regularly fertilized with Soot, Peat-Ash, or Coal-Ash.

They who sow Eight or Ten Bushels of good Seed on an Acre, in a good Season, among their Corn, with Intent that by its Thickness it should kill other Grass, reduce their St. Foin almost to that poor Condition I have seen it in, where it grows naturally[172] wild without sowing or Tillage, upon the Calabrian Hills near Croto: It makes there such a despicable Appearance, that one would wonder how any body should have taken it in their Head to propagate so unpromising a Plant; and yet there has scarce been an Exotic brought to England in this or the last Age, capable of making a greater or more general Improvement, were it duly cultivated.

Those who sow eight or ten bushels of good seed per acre during a good season, among their corn, intend for its thickness to smother other grass and nearly reduce their St. Foin to the poor condition I've seen it in when it grows wild without sowing or cultivation on the Calabrian hills near Croto: It looks so pitiful there that one would wonder how anyone ever thought to propagate such an unpromising plant; and yet, few exotics have been brought to England in this or the last century that could potentially make a greater or more widespread improvement, if properly cultivated.

Some think the Cytisus would exceed it; but I am afraid the Labour of shearing those Shrubs by the Hands of English Servants, would cost too much of its Profit.

Some people believe the Cytisus would be better; but I'm worried that the cost of having English workers trim those shrubs would eat into its profits too much.

Luserne, requiring more Culture, and being much more difficult to be fitted with a proper Soil, never can be so general as St. Foin.

Luserne, which needs more cultivation and is much harder to grow in the right soil, can never be as widespread as St. Foin.

But now let us consider the best Methods of ordering St. Foin for Hay and Seed. The Profit of St. Foin Fields, arising from either of these Ways, is a great Advantage to their Owner, above that of natural Meadows; for, if Meadow-hay cannot have good Weather to be cut in its Season, it can serve for little other Use than as Dung, and yet the Expence of mowing it, and carrying it off must not be omitted. But if there be not Weather to cut St. Foin before blossoming, we may expect it till in Flower, or may stay till the Blossoms are off; and if it still rain on, may stand for Seed, and turn to as good Account as any of the former: So that it has Four Chances to One of the Meadow.

But now let’s look at the best ways to arrange St. Foin for hay and seed. The profit from St. Foin fields, whether from hay or seed, is a huge benefit to the owner compared to natural meadows. If meadow hay doesn’t get good weather when it’s time to be cut, it can only serve as manure, and we shouldn’t forget the cost of mowing it and hauling it away. However, if we don’t have good weather to cut St. Foin before it blooms, we can wait until it flowers, or even wait until the flowers are gone. And if it keeps raining, we can let it stand for seed, which can be just as profitable as any of the previous options. This gives us four chances to one compared to the meadow.

The elevated, but not mountainous, Situation of the dry Land whereon St. Foin is mostly planted, renders it so commodious for making of Hay, that it escapes there the Injury of Weather, when Hay in low Meadows is utterly spoil’d.

The high, but not hilly, location of the dry land where St. Foin is primarily grown makes it ideal for producing hay, allowing it to avoid the damage from weather that completely ruins hay in low meadows.

On the high Ground the Wind will dry more in an Hour, than on the Meadows in a whole Day. The Sun too has a more benign Influence above, and sends off the Dew about Two Hours earlier in the[173] Morning, and holds it up as much longer in the Evening. By these Advantages the St. Foin has the more Time to dry, and is made with half the Expence of Meadow-hay.

On high ground, the wind dries things faster in an hour than on the meadows in an entire day. The sun also has a more favorable effect up there, evaporating the dew about two hours earlier in the morning and keeping it off for much longer in the evening. Because of these advantages, the St. Foin has more time to dry and is made at half the cost of meadow hay.

But before the Manner of making it be describ’d, the proper Time of cutting it ought to be determin’d; and upon that depend the Degrees of its Excellence (besides upon the Weather, which is not in our Power); for tho’ all Sorts of this Hay, if well made, be good, yet there is a vast Difference and Variety in them.

But before we describe how to make it, we need to decide the right time for cutting it; this directly affects its quality (along with the weather, which we can't control). While all types of this hay are good when made properly, there is a significant difference and variety among them.

The several Sorts may be principally distinguish’d by the following Terms; viz. First, The Virgin. Secondly, The Blossom’d. Thirdly, The Full-grown. And, Fourthly, The Thresh’d Hay.

The different types can be mainly identified by the following terms: First, The Virgin. Second, The Blossom’d. Third, The Full-grown. And fourth, The Thresh’d Hay.

The First of these is best of all, beyond Comparison; and (except Luserne) has not in the World its Equal. This must be cut before the Blossoms appear: For when it stands till full-blown, the most spirituous, volatile, and nourishing Parts of its Juices are spent on the next Generation; and this being done all at once, the Sap is much depauperated, and the St. Foin can never recover that Richness it had in its Virgin State. And tho’, when in Blossom, it be literally in the Flower of its Age, ’tis really in the Declension of it. If it be said, that what is not in the Stalk is gone into the Flower, ’tis a Mistake; because much the greatest Part of its Quintessence perspires thence into the Atmosphere.

The first one is the best of all, without comparison; and (except for Luserne) it has no equal in the world. It needs to be cut before the blossoms show up: Because if it's left to fully bloom, the most potent, volatile, and nourishing parts of its juices are used up for the next generation; and since this happens all at once, the sap becomes significantly depleted, and the St. Foin can never regain the richness it had in its original state. And even though it’s in bloom, which is literally the peak of its age, it’s actually on the decline. If someone says that what’s not in the stalk has gone into the flower, that’s a mistake; because a large part of its essence evaporates into the atmosphere.

And moreover, That all Vegetables are, in some Degree, weaken’d by the Action of continuing their Kind, may be inferr’d from those Plants which will live several Years, if not suffer’d to blossom; but, whenever they blossom, it causes their Death, tho’ in the first Year of their Life. For in Plants (as Dr. Willis observes in Animals) Nature is more solicitous to continue the Species, than for the Benefit of the Individual.

And also, the fact that all vegetables are somewhat weakened by the process of reproducing can be seen in those plants that can live for several years if they aren't allowed to flower; however, whenever they do flower, it leads to their death, even in the first year of their life. As Dr. Willis notes in animals, in plants, nature is more concerned with continuing the species than with the welfare of the individual.

[174]

[174]

Part of a drill’d St. Foin Ground was cut the Beginning of May, before blossoming[181]; and from the Time of cutting, until it was set up in Ricks, being about Ten Days, the Sun never shone upon it[182]; but the Weather was misty: At last it was forc’d to be carried together for fear of Rain, so green, that out of the largest Stalks one might wring milky Juice; yet by making the Hay up in several little Ricks, and drawing up a great Chaff Basket in the Middle of each, its Firing was prevented; but it look’d of a dark Colour by heating; and was the very best[183] Hay that ever I had.

Part of a managed St. Foin field was cut at the beginning of May, before it bloomed[181]; and from the time it was cut until it was stacked into bundles, which was about ten days, the sun never shone on it[182]; the weather was foggy. Eventually, it had to be gathered together to avoid rain, remaining so green that you could squeeze milky juice from the largest stalks; however, by stacking the hay into several small bundles and placing a large chaff basket in the center of each, it was kept from catching fire. It did end up looking dark due to the heat, but it was the best[183] hay I ever had.

[181]By cutting before blossoming, is not meant before any one Blossom appears; for here and there a Bud will begin to open with a red Colour long before the rest: Therefore, when we perceive only a very few Blossoms beginning to open (perhaps but One of a Thousand), we regard them as none.

[181]Cutting before blooming doesn’t refer to before everyone’s Blossom appears; because now and then a Bud will start to open with a red color long before the others: So, when we see just a few Blossoms beginning to open (maybe just One out of a Thousand), we consider them as none.

[182]This also was an Advantage to this Hay; for Apothecaries find, that Herbs dried in the Shade retain much more of their Virtue than these dried in the Sun; but Farmers not having any such Conveniency of drying their Hay in the Shade with Safety, must always choose to dry it by the Sun; because in cloudy Weather there is Danger of Rain; and therefore such excellent Hay must be had by Chance; for to be well made in the Shade, it must be in Danger of being spoiled or damaged by Rain.

[182]This was also a benefit for this hay; because herbalists find that herbs dried in the shade keep their properties much better than those dried in the sun. However, farmers, lacking a safe way to dry their hay in the shade, always have to dry it in the sun. Cloudy weather poses a risk of rain, which means quality hay can be hard to come by. To be well dried in the shade, it risks getting spoiled or damaged by rain.

[183]This Hay, so cut before blossoming, has kept a Team of working Stone-horses, round the Year, fat without Corn; and when tried with Beans and Oats mixed with Chaff, they refused it for this Hay. The same fatted some Sheep in the Winter, in a Pen, with only it and Water; they thrived faster than other Sheep at the same time fed with Pease and Oats. The Hay was weighed to them, and the clear Profit amounted to Four Pounds per Tun. They made no Waste. Tho’ the Stalks were of an extraordinary Bigness, they would break off short, being very brittle. This grew on rich Ground in Oxfordshire.

[183]This hay, cut before it bloomed, has kept a team of working stone horses healthy all year without needing grain. When offered beans and oats mixed with chaff, they preferred this hay instead. The same hay also fattened some sheep during the winter in a pen, only being provided with it and water; they thrived faster than other sheep that were fed peas and oats at the same time. The hay was weighed, and the net profit was four pounds per ton. There was no waste. Although the stalks were exceptionally large, they broke off easily since they were very brittle. This grew on rich soil in Oxfordshire.

The other Part of the Ground was afterwards cut in the Prime of its Flower, and made into Hay by the Heat of the Sun, without Rain or Mist: This came out of the Ricks at Winter with a much finer Colour, and as fine a Smell as the Virgin Hay; but did not come near it in fatting of Sheep, or keeping[175] Horses fat at hard Work without any Corn, as the Virgin Hay did.

The other part of the field was later harvested at the peak of its flowering and turned into hay by the heat of the sun, without any rain or mist. This hay came out of the stacks in winter with a much richer color and just as pleasant a smell as the virgin hay; however, it didn’t compare when it came to fattening sheep or keeping horses in good condition while they worked hard without any grain, like the virgin hay did.

This superfine Hay cannot well be had of poor uncultivated[184] St. Foin: because that may not be much above an Handful high, when ’tis in Condition to be so cut; and would then make a very light Crop, and would be a great while ere it sprang up again: But the rich will have Two or Three Tun to an Acre, and spring again immediately for a second Crop; so that little or no Quantity would be lost by so great an Improvement of its Quality. For ho’d St. Foin upon a poor chalky Hill, cut at the same time with that uncultivated on a rich Valley, does in dry Weather grow again without Delay, when the Valley attends a Month or more for a Rain, to excite its vegetative Motion.

This premium hay can't be easily obtained from poor, uncultivated St. Foin, which may only reach about a handful in height when it's ready to be cut. It would then produce a very light yield and take a long time to regrow. However, in rich soil, you can expect two or three tons per acre, and it will immediately regrow for a second harvest, so you wouldn’t lose much quantity despite the significant improvement in quality. For example, St. Foin growing on a poor chalky hill, cut at the same time as the uncultivated version in a rich valley, will regrow quickly in dry weather, while the valley may wait a month or more for rain to kickstart its growth.

[184]I reckon Manure of Peat-Ashes, Soot, or the like, to be a Culture.

[184]I think manure made from peat ashes, soot, or something similar is a type of culture.

This Hay the Owner (if he be wise) will not sell at any common Price; but endeavour to have some of it every Year, if possible, for his own Use.

This owner, if he's smart, won't sell it for just any price; instead, he should try to keep some for himself each year, if he can.

The Second Sort of St. Foin Hay is that cut in the Flower; and tho’ much inferior to the Virgin Hay, it far exceeds any other Kind, as yet commonly propagated in England; and if it be a full Crop, by good Culture, may amount to above three Tun to an Acre. This is that St. Foin which is most commonly made; and the larger it is, the more nourishing for Horses. I have known Farmers, after full Experience, go Three Miles to fetch the largest stalky St. Foin, when they could have bought the small fine leafy Sort of it at home, for the same Price by the Tun.

The second type of St. Foin hay is the one that’s cut when it's in bloom. Although it's much less superior to the Virgin hay, it surpasses any other kind that’s commonly grown in England. If harvested properly, it can yield over three tons per acre. This is the most widely produced St. Foin; the larger it is, the more nutritious it is for horses. I’ve seen farmers, after considerable experience, travel three miles to get the largest, thick-stemmed St. Foin when they could have bought the smaller, leafy variety at home for the same price per ton.

The next and last Sort of St. Foin that is cut only for Hay, is, the full-grown, the Blossoms being gone, or going off: This also is good Hay, tho’ it fall short, by many Degrees, of the other Two Sorts: It makes a greater Crop than either of them, because it grows to its full Bulk, and shrinks little in drying.

The next and final type of St. Foin that’s harvested solely for hay is the mature one, where the blossoms have already fallen or are in the process of falling. This type is also good hay, although it doesn’t compare as well to the other two types. It produces a larger yield than either of them because it grows to its full size and doesn’t shrink much when dried.

[176]

[176]

This gives the Owner a Third Chance of having Weather to make good Hay, and spins out the Hay-Season ’till about Midsummer; and then in about a Fortnight, or Three Weeks; after the Hay is finish’d, the Seed is ripe. But, first, of the manner of making St. Foin Hay.

This gives the Owner a third chance to have weather that's good for making hay, and extends the hay season until around Midsummer; then in about a fortnight, or three weeks, after the hay is done, the seed is ripe. But first, let’s discuss how to make St. Foin hay.

In a Day or Two after St. Foin is mow’d, it will, in good Weather, be dry on the upper Side: Then turn the Swarths, not singly, but Two and Two together; for by thus turning them in Pairs, there is a double Space of Ground betwixt Pair and Pair, which needs but once raking; whereas, if the Swarths were turn’d singly, that is, all the same Way, suppose to the East or West, then all the Ground will require to be twice raked; at least, more of it, than the other Way.

In a day or two after St. Foin is cut, it will, in good weather, be dry on top. Then turn the swaths, not one by one, but in pairs; by doing this, there will be a double space between each pair, which only needs to be raked once. However, if the swaths are turned one at a time, all in the same direction, say to the East or West, then the entire ground will need to be raked twice, or at least more of it than if done the other way.

As soon as both Sides of the Swarths are dry from Rain and Dew, make them up into little Cocks the same Day they are turn’d, if conveniently you can; for when ’tis in Cock, a less Part of it will be exposed to the Injuries of the Night, than when in Swarth.

As soon as both sides of the swaths are dry from rain and dew, gather them into small piles the same day they are turned, if you can. When it's in a pile, less of it will be exposed to the night’s damage than when it's in swath.

Dew, being of a nitrous penetrating Nature, enters the Pores of those Plants it reaches, and during the Night possesses the Room from whence some Part of the Juices is dry’d out: Thus it intimately mixes with the remaining Sap; and, when the Dew is again exhal’d, it carries up most of the vegetable Spirits along with it, which might have been there fix’d, had they not been taken away in that subtile Vehicle.

Dew, having a penetrating nature, seeps into the pores of the plants it touches and during the night takes up space from which some of the juices have dried out. This allows it to blend closely with the remaining sap, and when the dew evaporates again, it lifts a lot of the plant spirits with it, which would have been retained if they hadn’t been removed by that subtle vehicle.

If St. Foin be spread very thin upon the Ground, and so remain for a Week in hot Weather, the Sun and Dew will exhaust all its Juices, and leave it no more Virtue than is in Straw.

If St. Foin is spread very thin on the ground and left like that for a week in hot weather, the sun and dew will drain all its juices, leaving it with no more value than straw.

Therefore ’tis best to keep as much of our Hay as we can from being exposed to the Dews, whilst ’tis in making; and we have a better Opportunity of doing it in this, than in natural Hay; because the bigger the Cocks are, the less Superficies (in proportion[177] to the Quantity they contain) will be exposed to the Dew, and St. Foin may be safely made in much larger Cocks than natural Hay of equal Dryness can, which, sinking down closer, excludes the Air so necessary for keeping it sweet, that if the Weather prevents its being frequently mov’d and open’d, it will ferment, look yellow, and be spoil’d. Against this Misfortune there is no Remedy, but to keep it in the lesser Cocks, until thoroughly dry. St. Foin Cocks (twice as big as Cocks of natural Hay), by the less Flexibility of the Stalk admitting the Air, will remain longer without fermenting.

Therefore, it’s best to protect as much of our hay as we can from being exposed to the dew while it’s curing. We have a better chance of doing this with St. Foin than with natural hay because the larger the stacks are, the less surface area (in proportion to the amount they hold) will be exposed to the dew. St. Foin can safely be stacked much higher than natural hay of the same dryness can, which, when compacted closer, cuts off the air that’s essential for keeping it fresh. If the weather prevents it from being moved and aired out frequently, it can ferment, turn yellow, and spoil. The only way to avoid this problem is to keep it in smaller stacks until it’s completely dry. St. Foin stacks (twice the size of natural hay stacks) will stay fresh longer without fermenting due to the less flexible stalk, which allows for better air circulation.

This being able to endure more Days unmov’d, is also an Advantage upon another Account besides the Weather; for tho’ in other Countries, People are not prohibited using the necessary Labour on all Days for preserving their Hay, even where the certainer Weather makes it less necessary than here, yet ’tis otherwise in England; where many a Thousand Load of natural Hay is spoil’d by that Prohibition for want of being open’d; and often, by the Loss of one Day’s Work, the Farmer loses his Charges, and Year’s Rent; which shews, that to make Hay while the Sun shines, is an exotic Proverb against English Laws; whereunto St. Foin being, in regard of Sundays and Holidays, more conformable, ought to be the Hay as proper to England as those Laws are.

Being able to go more days without being disturbed is an advantage for another reason besides the weather. In other countries, people are allowed to do the necessary work on all days to preserve their hay, even when the weather is more reliable and makes this less critical than it is here. However, that's not the case in England, where thousands of loads of natural hay spoil because of this prohibition due to not being tended to. Often, with the loss of one day's work, a farmer can lose their expenses and even a year's rent, showing that the saying “make hay while the sun shines” ironically conflicts with English laws. Since St. Foin is more compatible with Sundays and holidays, it should be the ideal hay for England, just like those laws are.

But to return to our Hay-makers: When the first Cocks have stood one Night, if nothing hinder, let them double, treble, or quadruple the Cocks, according as all Circumstances require, in this manner; viz. Spread Two, Three, or more, together, in a fresh Place; and after an Hour or Two turn them, and make that Number up into one Cock; but when the Weather is doubtful, let not the Cocks be thrown or spread, but inlarge them, by shaking several of them into one; and thus hollowing them to let in the Air, continue increasing their Bulk, and diminishing their[178] Number daily, until they be sufficiently dry to be carried to the Rick.

But back to our haymakers: After the first stacks have stood overnight, if nothing gets in the way, let them double, triple, or quadruple the stacks based on the circumstances. Here’s how: Spread two, three, or more stacks together in a new area; after an hour or two, turn them and combine that number into one stack. However, when the weather looks uncertain, don’t throw or spread the stacks. Instead, consolidate them by shaking several into one. This way, you can hollow them out to allow air in, keep increasing their size, and reduce their number each day until they're dry enough to be moved to the barn.

This I have found the most secure Way: Tho’ it be something longer in making, there is much less Danger than when a great Quantity of Hay is spread at once; for then a sudden Shower will do more Harm to one Acre of that, than to Twenty Acres in Cock.

This is what I’ve found to be the safest approach: Even though it takes a bit longer to prepare, there’s a lot less risk compared to spreading a large amount of hay all at once; because when you do that, a sudden rain can damage one acre of hay more than it would twenty acres that are in stacks.

And the very best Hay I ever knew in England, was of St. Foin made without ever spreading, or the Sun’s shining on it. This Way, tho’ it be longer ere finish’d, is done with less Labour than the other.

And the best hay I ever knew in England was made from St. Foin without ever spreading it out or letting the Sun shine on it. This method, even though it takes longer to finish, requires less effort than the other way.

Not only a little Rain, but even a Mist, will turn Clover Hay black; but St. Foin will not with any Weather turn black, until it be almost rotten, its Leaves being thinner than those of Clover.

Not just a little rain, but even a mist, will turn Clover Hay black; however, St. Foin won’t turn black with any weather until it's almost rotten, as its leaves are thinner than those of Clover.

If St. Foin be laid up pretty green, it will take no Damage, provided it be set in small round Ricks, with a large Basket drawn up in the Middle of each, to leave a Vent-hole there, thro’ which the superfluous Moisture of the Hay transpires.

If St. Foin is stacked up nice and green, it won't get damaged, as long as it's placed in small round piles with a large basket placed in the middle of each one to create a vent hole, allowing the excess moisture from the hay to escape.

As soon as its Heating is over, these Ricks ought to be thatch’d; and all St. Foin Ricks, that are made when the Hay is full dry’d in the Cocks, ought to be thatch’d immediately after the making them.

As soon as it's done heating, these ricks should be thatched; and all St. Foin ricks, made when the hay is fully dried in the cocks, should be thatched right after they are made.

That which is laid up most dry’d, will come out of the Rick of a green Colour, that which has much heated in the Rick, will have a brown Colour.

That which is stored most dry will come out of the stack a green color; that which has been heated a lot in the stack will have a brown color.

The Seed is a Fourth Chance the Owner has to make Profit of his St. Foin: But this, if the Hoeing-Husbandry were general, would not be vendible in great Quantities for planting; because an ordinary Crop of an Acre will produce Seed enough to drill an Hundred Acres, which would not want replanting in a long Time.

The Seed is a fourth opportunity for the Owner to profit from his St. Foin: However, if Hoeing-Husbandry was common, it wouldn’t be sellable in large quantities for planting. An average crop from one acre can produce enough seed to cultivate a hundred acres, which wouldn’t need replanting for a long time.

The other Use then of this Seed is for Provender; and it has been affirmed by some, who have made Trials of it, that Three Bushels of good St. Foin[179] Seed given to Horses, will nourish them as much as Four Bushels of Oats. When well order’d, it is so sweet, that most Sorts of Cattle are greedy of it. I never knew so much of it given to Hogs, as to make them become fat Bacon; but I have known Hogs made very good Pork with it, for an Experiment; and being valued at the Beginning of their feeding, and the Pork by the Score when the Hogs were kill’d, which, computed with the Quantity of Seed they eat, did not amount to near the Value of the same Seed sold for sowing; that being Three Shillings per Bushel, and the Profit made by giving it to the Hogs was but Two Shillings a Bushel.

The other use of this seed is for feed; some people who have tested it claim that three bushels of good St. Foin[179] seed given to horses will feed them as well as four bushels of oats. When prepared properly, it is so sweet that most types of cattle are eager to eat it. I’ve never seen enough of it given to pigs to turn them into fat bacon, but I have seen pigs become very good pork as an experiment. When evaluated at the beginning of their feeding, and the pork sold by the score when the pigs were slaughtered, the total value did not come close to the worth of the seed sold for planting, which was three shillings per bushel, and the profit made by feeding it to the pigs was only two shillings a bushel.

The Goodness of the Seed, and of the Hay out of which it is thresh’d, depends very much upon the manner of ordering them.

The quality of the seed and the hay it's harvested from greatly depends on how they are managed.

This thresh’d Hay, when not damaged by wet Weather, has been found more nourishing to Horses than coarse Water-meadow Hay; and, when ’tis cut small by an Engine, is good Food for Cattle, and much better than Chaff of Corn.

This threshed hay, when not damaged by rain, has been found to be more nutritious for horses than coarse water-meadow hay; and when it’s chopped finely by a machine, it's good feed for cattle and much better than corn chaff.

It requires some Experience in it, to know the most proper Degree of Ripeness, at which the seeded St. Foin ought to be cut; for the Seed is never all ripe together; some Ears blossom before others; every Ear begins blossoming at the lower Part of it, and so continues gradually to do upward for many Days; and before the Flower is gone off the Top, the Bottom of the Ear has almost fill’d the Seeds that grow there; so that if we should defer cutting until the top Seeds are quite ripe, the lower, which are the best, would shed, and be lost.

It takes some experience to know the right level of ripeness at which seeded St. Foin should be cut. The seeds never ripen all at once; some ears flower before others. Each ear starts blooming at the bottom and continues to do so gradually for many days. By the time the flowers at the top have faded, the seeds at the bottom are nearly fully developed. If we wait to cut until the top seeds are completely ripe, the lower ones, which are the best, will shed and be lost.

The best time to cut is, when the greatest Part of the Seed is well fill’d, the first-blown ripe, and the last blown beginning to be full.

The best time to cut is when most of the seed is well-filled, the first blooms are ripe, and the last blooms are starting to fill out.

The natural Colour of the Kernel, which is the real Seed, is grey or bluish when ripe; and the Husk, which contains the Seed is, when ripe, of a brownish[180] Colour. Both Husk and Seed continue perfectly green for some time after full-grown; and if you open the Husk, the Seed will appear exactly like a green Pea when gather’d to boil, and will, like that, easily be split into Two Parts. Yet St. Foin Seed in this green Plight will ripen after Cutting, have as fine a Colour, and be as good in all Respects, as that which was ripe before Cutting: Some, for want of observing this, have suffer’d their Seed to stand so long, till it was all ripe, and lost in Cutting.

The natural color of the kernel, which is the actual seed, is gray or bluish when it's ripe; and the husk, which holds the seed, is a brownish color when ripe. Both the husk and seed remain perfectly green for a while after they are fully grown; and if you open the husk, the seed will look just like a green pea when it's ready to be boiled, and it can easily be split into two parts, just like that. However, St. Foin seed can continue to ripen after cutting while still in this green state, turning out as nicely colored and as good in every way as the seeds that were ripe before cutting. Some people, not realizing this, have let their seeds remain in the field until they were completely ripe, and then lost them during harvesting.

St. Foin Seed should not be cut in the Heat of the Day, whilst the Sun shines out: for then much, even of the unripe Seed, will shed in Mowing: Therefore, in very hot Weather, the Mower should begin to work very early in the Morning, or rather in the Night; and when they perceive the Seed to shatter, leave off, and rest till towards the Evening.

St. Foin Seed shouldn't be cut during the hottest part of the day when the sun is shining. At that time, a lot of the unripe seed will fall off while mowing. So, in really hot weather, the mower should start working early in the morning, or even at night; and if they notice the seed starting to shatter, they should stop and take a break until the evening.

After Cutting we must observe the same Rule as in mowing it; viz. not to make this Hay whilst the Sun shines.

After cutting, we must follow the same rule as when mowing it; viz. not to make this hay while the sun is shining.

Sometimes it may, if the Seed be pretty ripe, be cock’d immediately after the Scythe; or if the Swarths must be turn’d, let it be done whilst they are moist; not Two together, as in the other Hay aforemention’d. If the Swarths be turn’d with the Rake’s Handle, ’tis best to raise up the Ear-sides first, and let the Stub-side rest on the Ground in turning; but if it be done by the Rake’s Teeth, then let them take hold on the Stub-side, the Ears bearing on the Earth in turning over. But ’tis commonly Rain that occasions the Swarths to want Turning[185].

Sometimes, if the seed is fairly ripe, it can be cocked right after cutting. If the rows need to be turned, do it while they’re still moist; don’t turn two at a time like with the hay mentioned before. If you’re turning the rows with the handle of the rake, it’s best to lift the ear sides first and let the stub side rest on the ground while turning. But if you’re using the rake's teeth, grab the stub side, with the ears facing down when you turn it. Usually, it’s rain that causes the rows to need turning.[185]

[185]If the Swarths be not very great, we never turn them at all, because the Sun or Wind will quickly dry them.

[185]If the shadows aren't too long, we don't bother with them at all, because the Sun or Wind will dry them up quickly.

If it be cock’d at all[186], the sooner ’tis made into Cocks, the better; because, if the Swarths be[181] dry, much of the Seed will be lost in separating them, the Ears being entangled together. When moist, the Seed sticks fasts to the Ear; but, when dry, will drop out with the least Touch or Shaking.

If it’s been harvested at all[186], the sooner it's converted into grain, the better; because, if the husks are[181] dry, a lot of the seeds will be lost during separation since the ears get tangled together. When they’re wet, the seeds cling tightly to the ear; but when dry, they will fall out with the slightest touch or shake.

[186]Sometimes when we design to thresh in the Field, we make no Cocks at all, and but only just separate the Swarths in the Dew of the Morning dividing them into Parts of about Two Feet in each Part. By this means the St. Foin is sooner dry’d, than when it lies thicker, as it must do, if made into Cocks.

[186]Sometimes when we go to thresh in the field, we don’t make any stacks at all; we just separate the swaths in the morning dew, dividing them into sections of about two feet each. This way, the hay dries faster than if it’s laid out thicker, which it has to be if we make stacks.

There are Two ways of threshing it, the one in the Field, the other in the Barn: The first cannot be done but in very fine Weather, and whilst the Sun shines in the Heat of the Day: The best Manner of this is, to have a large Sheet pegg’d down to the Ground, for Two Men with their Flails to thresh on: Two Persons carry a small Sheet by its Corners, and lay it down close to a large Cock, and, with Two Sticks thrust under the Bottom of it, gently turn it over, or lift it up upon the Sheet, and carry and throw it on the great Sheet to the Threshers; but when the Cocks are small, they carry several at once, thrown upon the little Sheet carefully with Forks; those which are near, they carry to the Threshers with the Forks only. As fast as it is thresh’d, one Person stands to take away the Hay, and lay it into an Heap: And sometimes a Boy stands upon it, to make it into a small Rick of about a Load. As often as the great Sheet is full, they riddle it thro’ a large Sieve to separate the Seed and Chaff from the broken Stalks, and put it into Sacks to be carried into the Barn to be winnow’d.

There are two ways to thresh it: one in the field and the other in the barn. The first can only be done in very fine weather while the sun is shining hot during the day. The best method is to have a large sheet pegged down to the ground for two people using their flails to thresh on. Two people carry a smaller sheet by its corners and lay it down close to a large stack. With two sticks pushed under it, they gently turn it over or lift it onto the small sheet and then carry it to the larger sheet for the threshers. If the stacks are small, they carry several at once, carefully throwing them onto the smaller sheet with forks. For those nearby, they take them to the threshers using just the forks. As soon as it’s threshed, one person removes the hay and stacks it into a heap. Sometimes a boy stands on it to make it into a small stack of about a load. Whenever the large sheet is full, they sift it through a big sieve to separate the seeds and chaff from the broken stalks and then put it into sacks to be taken to the barn for winnowing.

Two Threshers will employ Two of these little Sheets, and Four Persons in bringing to them; and when the Cocks are thresh’d, which stand at a considerable Distance all round them, they remove the Threshing-sheet to another Place. There belong to a Set for one Threshing-sheet Seven or Eight Persons; but the Number of Sheets should be according to the[182] Quantity to be thus thresh’d: The sooner these thresh’d Cocks are remov’d, and made into bigger Ricks, the better; and unless they be thatch’d, the Rain will run a great Way into them, and spoil the Hay; but they may be thatch’d with the Hay itself, if there be not Straw convenient for it.

Two threshers will use two of these small sheets and four people to assist them. Once the bundles are threshed, which are spaced out at a significant distance from each other, they will move the threshing sheet to another location. A set for one threshing sheet requires seven or eight people; however, the number of sheets should depend on the amount to be threshed. The quicker the threshed bundles are moved and made into larger stacks, the better. If they aren’t covered, rain will seep into them and ruin the hay. They can be covered with the hay itself if there isn’t any straw available for that.

But the chiefest Care yet remains; and that is, to cure the Seed: If that be neglected, it will be of little or no Value[187]; and the better it has escap’d the Wet in the Field, the sooner its own Spirits will spoil it in the Barn or Granary. I have known it lie a Fortnight in Swarth, till the wet Weather has turn’d the Husks quite black: This was thresh’d in the Field, and immediately put into large Vessels, holding about Twenty Bushels each. It had by being often wet, and often dry, been so exhausted of its fiery Spirits, that it remain’d cool in the Vessels, without ever fermenting in the least, till the next Spring; and then it grew as well as ever any did that was planted.

But the biggest concern remains; and that is to treat the seed. If that's ignored, it will be of little or no value[187]; and the better it has avoided getting wet in the field, the sooner its own qualities will ruin it in the barn or granary. I’ve seen it sit for two weeks in the chaff until the wet weather has turned the husks completely black. This was threshed in the field and immediately placed into large containers, each holding about twenty bushels. By being wet and dry often, it was so drained of its energy that it stayed cool in the containers, without ever fermenting at all, until the next spring; and then it grew just as well as any that was planted.

[187]But there is yet another Care to be taken of St. Foin Seed, besides the curing it; and that is, to keep it from Rats and Mice after ’tis cured; or else, if their Number be large, they will in a Winter eat up all the Seed of a considerable Quantity, leaving only empty Husks, which to the Eye appear the same as when the Seeds are in them. A Man cannot without Difficulty take a Seed out of its Husk; but the Vermin are so dextrous at it, that they will eat the Seed almost as fast out of the Husks, as if they were pulled out for them. I saw a Rat killed as he was running from an Heap of it, that had Seven peeled Seeds in his Mouth not swallowed; which is a Sign, that he was not long in taking them out. They take them out so cleverly, that the Hole in the Husk shuts itself up when the Seed is out of it. But, if you feel the Husk between your Finger and Thumb, you will find it empty. Also a Sackful of them is very light; yet there have been some so ignorant and incurious as to sow such empty Husks for several Years successively; and none coming up, they concluded their Land to be improper for St. Foin.

[187]But there’s another thing to be mindful of with St. Foin Seed, aside from curing it; and that’s keeping it safe from rats and mice after it’s cured. If their numbers are high, they can eat through a significant amount of seed during the winter, leaving only empty husks, which look the same as when the seeds are inside. It's difficult for a person to remove a seed from its husk, but these pests are so skilled that they can eat the seed almost as quickly out of the husks as if they were handed to them. I saw a rat killed while it was fleeing from a pile of seeds, with seven peeled seeds still in its mouth, not yet swallowed, which shows it hadn’t been taking them out for long. They are so adept at it that the hole in the husk closes up once the seed is removed. However, if you feel the husk between your fingers, you will find it empty. A sack full of these is very light; yet, some have been so ignorant and uninterested that they’ve sown such empty husks for several years in a row, and when nothing grew, they concluded that their land was unsuitable for St. Foin.

But of Seed thresh’d in the Field, without ever being wetted, if it be immediately winnow’d, and a single Bushel laid in an Heap, or put into a Sack,[183] it will in few Days ferment to such a Degree, that the greatest Part of it will lose its vegetative Quality: The larger the Heap, the worse: During the Fermentation it will be very hot, and smell sour.

But if seed that’s been threshed in the field, without ever getting wet, is winnowed right away and a single bushel is stacked in a pile or put into a sack,[183] it will start to ferment within a few days to the point where most of it will lose its ability to sprout. The bigger the pile, the worse it gets: During fermentation, it will feel really hot and have a sour smell.

Many, to prevent this, spread it upon a Malt-Floor, turning it often; or, when the Quantity is small, upon a Barn-floor; but still I find, that this Way a great deal of it is spoil’d; for it will heat, tho’ it be spread but an handful thick, and they never spread it thinner: Besides, they may miss some Hours of the right times of turning it; for it must be done very often; it should be stirr’d in the Night as well as the Day, until the Heating be over; and yet, do what they can, it never will keep its Colour so bright as that which is well housed, well dry’d, and thresh’d in the Winter: For in the Barn the Stalks keep it hollow; there are few Ears or Seeds that touch one another; and the Spirits have room to fly off by Degrees, the Air entering to receive them.

Many people, to avoid this, spread it on a malt floor, turning it frequently; or, when there’s a small amount, on a barn floor. But I still find that this method ruins a lot of it; even when spread just a handful thick, it heats up, and they never spread it any thinner. Besides, they may miss the right times to turn it because it needs to be done very often; it should be stirred at night as well as during the day until the heating is done. Yet, no matter what they do, it never retains its bright color like the grain that’s properly stored, well dried, and threshed in the winter. In the barn, the stalks keep it airy; there are few ears or seeds touching each other, and the spirits can gradually escape as the air comes in to let them out.

The only Way I have found to imitate and equal this, is to winnow it from the Sheet; then lay a Layer of Wheat-straw (or if that be wanting, of very dry-thresh’d Hay); then spread thereon a thin Layer of Seed, and thus Stratum super Stratum, Six or Seven Feet high, and as much in Breath; then begin another Stack; let there be Straw enough, and do not tread on the Stacks; by this means the Seed mixing with the Straw, will be kept cool, and come out in the Spring with as green a Colour as when it was put in, and not one Seed of a Thousand will fail to grow when planted. A little Barn-room will contain a great Quantity in this Manner.

The only way I've found to mimic and match this is to sift it from the sheet; then lay down a layer of wheat straw (or if that's not available, very dry threshed hay); then spread a thin layer of seed on top of that, and so on, layer by layer, about six or seven feet high and as wide. Then start another stack; make sure you have enough straw and avoid stepping on the stacks. This way, the seed mixed with the straw will stay cool, and in the spring, it will emerge as green as when it was put in, with almost every seed growing when planted. A little barn space can hold a lot this way.

I have had above One hundred Quarters of clean Seed thus manag’d in one Bay of a small Barn. We do not stay to winnow it clean before we lay it up in the Straw; but only pass it through a large Sieve, and with the Van blow out the Chaff, and winnow it clean in the Spring.

I have gathered over one hundred quarters of clean seed stored in one section of a small barn. We don't bother to clean it thoroughly before putting it away in the straw; we just pass it through a large sieve and use the fan to blow out the chaff, then we clean it properly in the spring.

[184]

[184]

This Field-threshing requires extraordinary fine Sun-shiny Weather, which some Summers do not afford at the Season, for threshing a great Quantity of it; for ’tis but a small Part of the Day in which the Seed can be thresh’d clean out. They who have a small Quantity of it, do carry it into a Barn early in the Morning, or even in the Night; whilst the Dew is on it; for then the Seed sticks fast to the Ear: As it dries, they thresh it out; and if they cure it well, have thus sometimes good Seed, but generally the Hay is spoil’d.

This field threshing requires really nice, sunny weather, which some summers just don't provide during the season for threshing a lot of it. There’s only a short part of the day when the seed can be threshed clean. Those who have a small amount of it take it into a barn early in the morning or even at night while it's still dewy; that way, the seed stays attached to the ear. As it dries, they thresh it out, and if they handle it properly, they can sometimes get good seed, but usually the hay gets ruined.

There is one Method of saving all the Seed good, and the Hay too, by carrying it unthresh’d to the Barn or Rick, in a particular Manner, tho’ it be a great Quantity, more than can presently be thresh’d; but must be laid up in Mows or Ricks, as Corn is. Then if it be carry’d in, in the Dews or Damp, the Hay is sure to be spoil’d, if not both Hay and Seed: When ’tis taken up dry, the Seed comes out with a Touch, and the greatest Part is lost in pitching up the Cocks, binding and jolting in carrying home.

There’s a way to save all the good seed and hay by transporting it unthreshed to the barn or stack in a specific manner, even if there’s a large amount that can’t be threshed right away; it should be stored in mows or stacks like grain. However, if it’s brought in while it’s damp or wet, the hay is likely to spoil, along with the seed. When it’s collected dry, the seed comes out easily, but a lot is lost when stacking, binding, and transporting it home.

To avoid this Dilemma, a Person who happen’d to have a great Crop of Seed on One hundred and Fifty Acres together (and being by Weather delay’d ’till Wheat-harvest came on, so that most Labourers went to Reaping) was forc’d to a Contrivance of getting it in as follows; viz. Three Waggons had each a Board with an Hole in, fix’d cross the Middle of each Waggon, by Iron Pins, to the Top of the Rades or Sides: There was a Crane which a Man could lift, and set into the Hole in the Board, and, having an Iron Gudgeon at the Bottom, which went into a Socket in the Bottom of the Waggon, would turn quite round: The Post of the Crane was Ten Feet Four Inches long, its Arm Four Feet Eight Inches long, brac’d; having a treble Pulley at the End of it, and another to answer it with an Hook.

To avoid this dilemma, a person who happened to have a large crop of seed on one hundred and fifty acres (and was delayed by the weather until wheat harvest time, when most laborers went to reap) had to come up with a way to get it in as follows: Three wagons each had a board with a hole fixed across the middle of each wagon using iron pins attached to the top of the sides. There was a crane that a person could lift and set into the hole in the board, which had an iron pivot at the bottom that fit into a socket at the bottom of the wagon, allowing it to turn all the way around. The post of the crane was ten feet four inches long, its arm four feet eight inches long, and it was braced, with a triple pulley at the end and another one opposite it with a hook.

[185]

[185]

About Forty Sheets were provided, capable of holding each One hundred and Fifty, or Two hundred Pounds Weight of it; these had Knots or Buttons at the Corners and Middles, made by sewing up a little Hay in these Knots, as big as Apples, into Part of the Sheet; for if any Buckle, or other thing, be sew’d to a Sheet plain, it will tear the Sheet. Half these Buttons have Strings ty’d to them; these Sheets are spread among the Cocks, fill’d by Two, and ty’d up by Two other Persons: There is also a light Fir Ladder, wide at Bottom, the Top of it fasten’d by a Piece of Cord to the brace of the Crane: they hitch the Hook of the lower Pulley to a fill’d Sheet, and by a little Horse at the End of the Pulley-rope, draw it up sliding on the Ladder; ’tis up in a Moment: Then the Man who is below, hitches the Crook of the Pulley to the lower Round of the Ladder, and the Loader above pulls up the Ladder from the Ground, till the Waggon comes to another Sheet. The Waggons are lengthen’d by Cart-Ladders before and behind, for the more easy placing of the Sheets. When about Twelve or Fifteen of them are loaded, they have a Rope fix’d to the Fore-part of each Waggon, which they bring over the Top of all the loaded Sheets, and wrest it at the Tail, to hold on the Sheets fast from falling off with Jolting. Then the Loader pulls out the Crane, and puts it into the next Waggon in the same Manner. One Waggon is loading whilst another is emptying in the Barn, by treble Pulleys likewise; because ’tis inconvenient to take it out of the Sheets by Prongs; but the Pulleys will easily draw off Two or Three Sheets together. One Waggon is always going to the Field, or coming home. This Contrivance makes more Expedition than one would imagine: Three Loads have been loaded, and sent off, in the same Time this way, that one Load of Hay has been loading, binding, and raking off the Outsides[186] of it, in the next Ground, in the common Way.

About forty sheets were provided, each able to hold one hundred and fifty or two hundred pounds of weight. These had knots or buttons at the corners and middle, created by sewing a bit of hay into these knots, as large as apples, as part of the sheet. If anything like a buckle is sewn directly to a sheet, it will tear the sheet. Half of these buttons have strings tied to them; the sheets are spread among the stacks, filled by two people, and tied up by two others. There's also a lightweight fir ladder, wider at the bottom, with the top secured by a piece of cord to the brace of the crane. They attach the hook of the lower pulley to a filled sheet and use a small horse at the end of the pulley rope to draw it up, sliding on the ladder; it’s done in an instant. Then, the person below hooks the pulley to the lower rung of the ladder, and the loader above pulls the ladder up from the ground until the wagon comes to another sheet. The wagons are extended with cart ladders at the front and back for easier placement of the sheets. When about twelve or fifteen of them are loaded, they attach a rope to the front of each wagon, bringing it over the top of all the loaded sheets and securing it at the back to keep the sheets from falling off due to jolting. Then, the loader pulls out the crane and puts it into the next wagon in the same way. One wagon is loaded while another is being emptied in the barn, also using pulleys; it's inconvenient to remove it from the sheets with forks, but the pulleys can easily lift two or three sheets together. One wagon is always going to the field or returning home. This setup allows for more efficiency than one might expect: three loads have been loaded and sent off in the same time it takes to load, bind, and rake off one load of hay in the conventional way in the next field.[186]

I will not relate the manner of making a Rick of this Seed in its Hay, of monstrous Dimensions, by a sort of Mast-pole Forty-four Feet high, with a Ten Feet Crane at the Top, which made the same Expedition; because I think, that where such a Quantity is, Dutch Barns with moving Roofs are better. Such a Rick is troublesome to thatch, and the Wind has more Power to blow the Thatch off so high in the Air, than if it were lower. Neither would I advise any one to reserve much more St. Foin for Threshing, than his Barn will contain; because tho’ sometimes it brings the greatest Profit by Threshing, yet some Years ’tis apt to be blighted.

I won’t explain how to make a massive haystack from this seed using a forty-four-foot mast pole with a ten-foot crane on top, which was used for the same task. I believe that when you have such a large amount, Dutch barns with adjustable roofs are a better option. Such a haystack is difficult to thatch, and the wind can easily blow the thatch off when it’s so high up compared to lower stacks. I also wouldn’t recommend storing much more St. Foin for threshing than your barn can hold, because while it can be very profitable to thresh sometimes, there are years when it tends to get damaged.

I have been told by my Neighbour, that he had a Crop of Five Quarters of St. Foin Seed on an Acre; but the most Profit that ever I took notice of, was on half an Acre, which was drill’d very thin, and had no Crop of Corn with it; by which Advantage it produc’d a good Crop of Seed the next Year after it was planted, and the Third Year this Half-Acre produc’d (as was try’d by a Wager) within a Trifle of Two Quarters of Seed, which was sold for Two Pounds and Ten Shillings: The thresh’d Hay of it was sold in the Place for One Pound, and Two Quarters of Chaff sold for Twelve Shillings; in all Four Pounds and Two Shillings. There was also a very good Aftermath, which was worth the Charges of Cutting and Threshing: So that the clear Profit of the One Year of this Half Acre of Ground amounted to Four Pounds Two Shillings: And it was remarkable, that at the same Time the rest of the same Field, being in all Ten Acres, had a Crop of Barley sown on Three Plowings, which (the Summer being dry) was offered to be sold at One Pound per Acre.

I was told by my neighbor that he had a yield of five quarters of sainfoin seed from an acre; however, the most profit I ever noticed was from half an acre, which was planted very sparsely and had no corn crop with it. This allowed it to produce a good seed crop the following year after it was planted. In the third year, this half-acre produced (as confirmed by a wager) nearly two quarters of seed, which sold for two pounds and ten shillings. The threshed hay was sold locally for one pound, and two quarters of chaff sold for twelve shillings, totaling four pounds and two shillings. There was also a very good aftermath that covered the costs of cutting and threshing. Thus, the net profit for one year from this half-acre of land amounted to four pounds and two shillings. It was notable that at the same time the rest of the same field, totaling ten acres, had a barley crop planted on three plowings, which (due to the dry summer) was offered for sale at one pound per acre.

[187]

[187]

I believe the greatest Part of the St. Foin that is sown, is spoil’d by being indiscreetly fed by Sheep[188]; which Damage is occasion’d merely by suffering them to continue feeding it too long at a Time, especially in the Spring; for then the Sap moves quick, and must be depurated by the Leaves; and as the Sun’s nearer Approach accelerates the Motion or Ferment of the Juices, more Pabulum is receiv’d by the Roots; but for want of Leaves to discharge the Recrements, and enliven the Sap with nitro-aereous Particles (the Sheep devouring the Buds continually as fast as they appear), the St. Foin’s vital Flame (if I may so call it) is extinguish’d; the Circulation ceasing, the Sap stagnates, and then it ends in Corruption[189]. But let the Sheep eat it never so low, in a short time, without continuing thereon, or cropping the next Buds which succeed those they have eaten, the Plants will recover and grow again as vigorously as ever, and if with a Spade, in the Winter you cut off the St. Foin Heads an Handful deep, and take them away, together with their upper Earth, the Wound in the remaining Root will heal, and send out more Heads as good as those cut off, if those second Heads be preserv’d from Cattle, until they attain to a Bigness competent to bear Leaves sufficient[188] for the Use of the reviving Plants: Nay, I have seen Plants of St. Foin cut off in the Winter a Foot deep, and the Earth of that Depth taken away; and the remaining Root recover’d, and grew to an extraordinary Bigness: But this was preserv’d from Cattle at first.

I think most of the St. Foin that’s grown gets damaged because sheep are fed on it carelessly[188]; this damage happens mainly because they are allowed to graze for too long at a time, especially in spring. During this time, the sap moves quickly and needs to be filtered by the leaves. As the sun gets closer, it speeds up the movement or fermentation of the juices, and more food is absorbed by the roots. However, since there aren’t enough leaves to release the waste and energize the sap with nitrogen-rich particles (the sheep keep eating the buds as soon as they appear), the St. Foin's vital energy (if I can call it that) is extinguished; the circulation stops, the sap stagnates, and it ultimately rots[189]. But if the sheep eat it down low, after a short while, without staying there or eating the new buds that grow after those they've consumed, the plants can bounce back and grow again as robustly as before. If, in winter, you dig down a handful deep to cut off the St. Foin heads and remove them along with the top layer of soil, the wound in the remaining root will heal and produce new heads just as good as those cut off, as long as those new heads are protected from livestock until they grow big enough to provide enough leaves for the recovering plants. In fact, I’ve seen St. Foin plants that were cut down in winter to a foot deep, with the earth removed to that depth, which then recovered and grew to an impressive size—provided they were kept safe from animals at the start.

[188]I never suffer Sheep to come upon St. Foin, except betwixt Mowing-time and All-Saints. And there is so much Danger of spoiling St. Foin by the Fraud of Shepherds, that I knew a Gentleman that bound his Tenant never to suffer any Sheep to come thereon; and by this means his St. Foin continued in Perfection much longer than is usual, where St. Foin is suffer’d to be fed by Sheep.

[188]I never let sheep graze on St. Foin, except between mowing season and All-Saints. There's a high risk of ruining St. Foin because of tricky shepherds, so I knew a guy who made his tenant promise never to allow any sheep on it; as a result, his St. Foin stayed in great condition much longer than usual where sheep are allowed to graze.

[189]Natural Grass is not kill’d by constant feeding, because no sort of Cattle can bite it so low as to deprive it of all its Leaves; and ’tis, like Eels, more tenacious of Life than the rest of its Genius, and will send out Leaves from the very Roots when reversed, as is too often seen where turffy Land is plow’d up in large Furrows.

[189]Natural Grass isn’t killed by constant grazing because no type of livestock can eat it down to the roots; it's, like eels, more resilient than other plants and will sprout leaves from the roots even when turned upside down, which is often observed when grassy land is plowed in large furrows.

I esteem St. Foin to be much more profitable than Clover, because St. Foin is never known to do any perceivable Damage to the Corn amongst which ’tis planted; but Clover often spoils a Crop of Barley[190]; and I have known, that the Crop of Barley has been valued to have suffer’d Four Pounds per Acre Damage by a Crop of broad Clover’s growing in it in a wet Summer: In a dry Summer both Sorts of Clover are apt to miss growing; and if it does grow, and the next Summer (wherein it ought to be a Crop) prove very dry, it fails on most sorts of Land, tho’ it was vigorous enough to spoil the Barley the Year it was sown; at best, ’tis of but very short Duration, and therefore is not to be depended on by the Farmer, for maintaining his Cattle, which the broad Clover will also kill, sometimes by causing them to swell, unless great Care be taken to prevent it. The broad Clover is esteem’d a foul Feed for Horses. The Hop Clover is gone out of the Ground sooner than the broad Clover; I never knew it cut more than once: Indeed Cattle are never swollen by feeding on it; but then it affords but very little Feeding for them, except the Land whereon it grows be very rich.

I believe St. Foin is much more beneficial than Clover because St. Foin doesn't harm the Corn it's planted with, while Clover often ruins a Barley crop. I've seen Barley crops valued at suffering Four Pounds per Acre in damage from broad Clover growing in them during a wet summer. In a dry summer, both types of Clover often fail to grow, and even if they do grow, if the next summer (when it should be a crop) is very dry, it tends to fail in most types of land, even though it might have been strong enough to ruin the Barley the year it was planted. At best, it has a very short lifespan and shouldn't be relied upon by farmers for sustaining their livestock, which broad Clover can also harm, sometimes causing them to swell, unless great care is taken to prevent it. Broad Clover is considered poor feed for horses. Hop Clover disappears from the ground sooner than broad Clover; I've never seen it cut more than once. In fact, livestock never swell from eating it, but it provides very little nutrition for them unless the land it grows on is very rich.

[190]But this Damage may be prevented by drilling the Clover after the Barley is an Handful high or more; for then the Barley will keep it under, and not suffer it to grow to any considerable Bigness till after Harvest; nor will this Drill, being drawn by Hand, do any Damage to the Barley.

[190]But this damage can be avoided by planting the clover once the barley is about a handful tall or more; at that point, the barley will keep it down and prevent it from growing too large until after the harvest. Also, this hand-driven drill won't harm the barley.

St. Foin is observ’d to enrich whatever Ground ’tis planted on, tho’ a Crop be taken off it yearly.

St. Foin is known to enrich any land it’s planted in, even if a crop is harvested from it every year.

[189]

[189]

Poor Slate Land[191], when it has borne sown St. Foin for Six or Seven Years, being plow’d up, and well till’d, produces Three Crops of Corn; and then they sow it with St. Foin again.

Poor Slate Land[191], after being planted with alfalfa for six or seven years, when plowed and well cultivated, yields three crops of corn; and then it is sown with alfalfa again.

[191]The Poverty of this sort of Land, lying upon Slate or Stone, generally proceeds from the Thinness of it; and, if it were thicker, it would be good Land: Much of this Earth, being dispersed among the Crannies or Interstices of the Slate and Stone to a great Depth, is reach’d by the Tap-roots of the St. Foin, but cannot be reach’d by the Roots of Corn; and therefore, when constantly kept in Tillage, is of small Value: Upon which Account such Land is greatly improveable by St. Foin, even when sown in the common manner.

[191]The poor quality of land like this, which sits on slate or stone, usually comes from how thin it is; if it were thicker, it would be good land. Much of this soil is scattered among the cracks or gaps in the slate and stone down deep, reachable by the taproots of St. Foin but not by corn roots; as a result, when it's continuously farmed, it has little value. For this reason, such land can be significantly improved by planting St. Foin, even when done in the usual way.

Rich arable Land was planted with it, and mow’d annually with very great Crops (’twas drill’d in Nine-inch Rows, with Six Gallons of Seed to an Acre; One Crop of it was sold at Four Pounds per Acre): This, after about Seven Years, and in full Perfection, was plow’d up by a Tenant, and continued for many Years after so rich, that, instead of dunging or fallowing it for Wheat, they were forc’d to sow that upon Barley-stubble, and to feed the Wheat with Sheep in the Spring, to prevent its being too luxuriant.

Rich farmland was planted with it and harvested every year with very large yields (it was planted in nine-inch rows, using six gallons of seed per acre; one crop sold for four pounds per acre). After about seven years, and at its peak productivity, a tenant plowed it up, and it remained so fertile for many years that, instead of fertilizing or letting it lie fallow for wheat, they had to sow it on barley stubble and graze sheep on the wheat in the spring to keep it from growing too lush.

But ’tis to be noted, that the Land must be well till’d at the breaking up of old St. Foin, or else the First Crops of Corn may be expected to fail: For I knew a Tenant, who, the last Year of his Term, plow’d up a Field of St. Foin, that would have yielded him Three Pounds per Acre; but, thinking to make more Profit of it by Corn, he sow’d it with White Oats upon once Plowing; and it proving a dry Summer, he lost his Plowing and Seed; for he had no Crop of Oats, and was forc’d to leave the Land as a Fallow to his Successor.

But it should be noted that the land needs to be well cultivated when breaking up old St. Foin, or the first crops of corn might fail. I knew a tenant who, in the last year of his lease, plowed up a field of St. Foin that would have yielded him three pounds per acre. However, thinking he could make more profit from corn, he sowed it with white oats after just one plowing. Since it turned out to be a dry summer, he lost his plowing and seed; he ended up with no crop of oats and had to leave the land as a fallow for his successor.

Many more Instances there are of this Failure of the Crop of Corn after St. Foin has been broken up, and not well till’d.

Many more instances of this failure of the corn crop occur after St. Foin has been broken up and not properly tilled.

[190]

[190]

When St. Foin is grown old, and worn out, as ’tis said to be when the artificial Pasture is gone, and the natural Pasture is become insufficient for the Number of Plants that are on it, to be maintained; and is so poor, that it produces no profitable Crop, so that the Ground is thought proper to be plow’d up, and sown with Corn, in order to be replanted[192]; the most effectual Way to bring it into Tilth speedily, is, to plow it up in the Winter, with a Four-coulterd Plough, and make it fit for Turneps by the following Season; and if the Turneps be well ho’d, and especially if spent by Sheep on the Ground, ’twill be in excellent Order to be sown with Barley the following Spring; and then it may be drill’d with St. Foin amongst the Barley.

When St. Foin is old and worn out, as it's said to be when the artificial pasture is depleted, and the natural pasture becomes insufficient for the number of plants on it to sustain, and is so poor that it yields no profitable crop, the land is considered suitable to be plowed and sown with corn in order to be replanted[192]; the most effective way to quickly prepare it for cultivation is to plow it up in the winter with a four-coulter plow and make it ready for turnips by the following season. If the turnips are well weeded, especially if grazed by sheep on the ground, it will be in excellent condition to be sown with barley the next spring; then it can be drilled with St. Foin among the barley.

[192]Or if you perceive, that there is a competent Number of Plants alive, and tolerably single; be they never so poor, you may recover them to a flourishing Condition in the following manner, without replanting: Pulverize the whole Field in Intervals of about Three Feet each, leaving betwixt every Two of them Four Feet Breadth of Ground unplow’d. When the Turf of these Intervals, being cut by the Four coulter’d Plough, is perfectly rotten, one Furrow made by any sort of Plough will hoe one of these Intervals, by changing the whole Surface of it. The poorer the Land is, the more Hoeings will be required; and the oftener ’tis ho’d, with proper Intermissions the first Year, the stronger the St. Foin will become, and the more Years it will continue good, without a Repetition of Hoeing.

[192]If you notice that there are enough healthy plants alive, even if they aren't in great condition, you can bring them back to a thriving state without replanting. Break up the entire field in sections about three feet apart, leaving a four-foot stretch of ground unplowed between each section. When the grass in these sections, cut by a four-blade plow, is completely decayed, one furrow made by any type of plow can cultivate one of these sections by completely turning over its surface. The poorer the soil, the more times you’ll need to hoe it; and the more often it’s hoed, with appropriate breaks in the first year, the stronger the St. Foin will grow and the longer it will stay viable without needing to be hoed again.

The Expence of this cannot be great; because the Plough, in hoeing an Acre in this manner Nine Times, travels no farther than it must to plow an Acre once in the common Manner.

The cost of this won't be high; because the plow, by hoeing an acre this way nine times, goes no further than it needs to plow an acre once in the usual way.

I need not tell the Owner, that the Earth of these Intervals must be made level, before the St. Foin can be mowed.

I don't need to tell the Owner that the ground in these areas needs to be leveled before the St. Foin can be cut.

To return to the Benefit Land receives by having been planted some Years with St. Foin: All the Experienc’d know, that Land is enriched by it; but they do not agree upon the Reason why.

To return to the benefit that land gets from being planted with Saint Foin for several years: Everyone experienced knows that it enriches the land; however, they don't all agree on the reason why.

They agree as to the Οτι, but not the Διοτι.

They agree on the Οτι, but not the Διοτι.

Some are of Opinion, ’tis because the St. Foin takes a different Sort of Nourishment to that of[191] Corn: But that I think is disprov’d in the Chapter of Change of Species, where ’tis shewn, that all Plants in the same Soil must take the same Food.

Some people believe it's because the St. Foin absorbs a different type of nourishment than corn. However, I think that’s disproven in the chapter of Change of Species, where it is shown that all plants in the same soil must take the same nutrients.

Mr. Kirkham thinks St. Foin has no collateral or horizontal Roots in the upper Part of the Ground where the Plough tills for Corn; and therefore has no Nourishment from that Part of the Soil which feeds the Corn. This would be a very good Account for it, were it not utterly contrary to Matter of Fact, as every one may see.

Mr. Kirkham believes St. Foin lacks collateral or horizontal roots in the upper part of the ground where the plow disturbs the soil for corn; therefore, it doesn't get nourishment from that portion of the soil that feeds the corn. This would be a reasonable explanation if it weren't completely contrary to the facts, as anyone can see.

But so far it is right, that large[193] St. Foin draws the greatest Part of its Nourishment from below the Reach of the Plough; and what Part it does receive from the Staple is overbalanc’d by the Second Crop, or After-lease, being spent by Cattle on the Ground; different from Corn, which is very near wholly maintain’d by the plow’d Part of the Earth, and is all carry’d off.

But so far, it's accurate that large[193] St. Foin gets most of its nutrients from areas untouched by the plow; and whatever it does get from the staple is outweighed by the second crop or after-lease, which is consumed by livestock on the ground; unlike corn, which is almost entirely supported by the plowed land and is completely harvested.

[193]For large St. Foin, being single, has large Roots, and very long, which probably descend Twenty Feet deep: Now, if we allow Four or Five Inches the Depth of the Staple, to afford a Supply equal to Two Feet below it, taking the lower Nineteen Feet Seven Inches together, upon this Computation, the Part below the Staple gives the St. Foin about Nine Parts in Ten of its Sustenance.

[193]For large St. Foin, since it's a single plant, has large roots that can reach up to twenty feet deep. Now, if we consider four or five inches for the staple's depth to provide enough supply down to two feet below it, taking the lower nineteen feet seven inches overall, based on this calculation, the part below the staple provides St. Foin with about nine-tenths of its nourishment.

For tho’ the under Stratum of Earth be much poorer than the upper; yet that, never having been drain’d by any sort of Vegetables, must afford considerable Nourishment to the First that comes there.

For though the lower Stratum of Earth is much poorer than the upper layer, it has never been depleted by any kind of plants, so it must provide substantial nourishment to the first ones that come to it.

And besides, in such Land whose Poverty proceeds from the Rain’s carrying its Riches too quickly down through the upper Stratum, the under Stratum must be the richer[194] for receiving what the upper Stratum lets pass unarrested.

And besides, in a land where poverty comes from the rain washing its wealth away too quickly through the upper Stratum, the lower Stratum must be richer[194] for holding on to what the upper Stratum allows to flow through without stopping.

[194]In light poor Land the Water carrying some impregnated Earth along with it down lower than it does in strong Land, that is more tenacious of such impregnated Particles, the under Strata of strong Land are likely to be poorer than those of light Land.

[194]In weaker soil, the water carries some contaminated earth with it, while in stronger soil, which holds onto these contaminants better, the lower layers of strong soil are likely to be poorer than those of weaker soil.

[192]

[192]

’Tis well known, that many Estates have been much improv’d by St. Foin; therefore there is no occasion to mention Particulars. Only I will take Notice, that the First in England was one of about One hundred and Forty Pounds per Annum, sown with St. Foin, and sold for Fourteen Thousand Pounds; and as I hear, continues, by the same Improvement, still of the same Value. This is, I suppose, the same that Mr. Kirkham mentions in Oxfordshire.

It’s well known that many estates have greatly improved thanks to St. Foin, so there’s no need to go into specifics. I just want to point out that the first one in England was around One hundred and forty pounds per annum, planted with St. Foin, and sold for fourteen thousand pounds; and from what I hear, it still holds that same value thanks to the same improvement. I assume this is the one Mr. Kirkham talks about in Oxfordshire.

Another Farm of Ten Pounds per Annum Rent, which, whilst in Arable[195], was like to have undone the Tenant; but being all planted with St. Foin by the Owner, was lett at One hundred and Ten Pounds per Annum, and prov’d a good Bargain.

Another Farm of Ten Pounds per Annum Rent, which, while it was in crops, almost drove the Tenant to ruin; but since the Owner planted it all with Saint Foin, it was leased for One hundred and Ten Pounds per Annum, and turned out to be a great deal.

[195]These Estates consisted of thin Slate Land; which before it was planted with St. Foin, was valued at two Shillings per Acre, and some Part of it at One Shilling per Acre (as I have been inform’d); and yet Oxen are well fatted by the St. Foin it produces.

[195]These estates had thin slate land, which was valued at two shillings per acre before it was planted with St. Foin, and some parts were valued at one shilling per acre (as I’ve been told); still, oxen are well-fattened by the St. Foin it produces.

If it should be ask’d, Why St. Foin is an Improvement so much greater in England, than in other Countries? it might be answer’d by shewing the Reason why English Arable is of so much less Value than Foreign[196] where the Land is of equal Goodness, and the Corn produc’d of equal Price.

If someone were to ask why St. Foin is a much greater improvement in England than in other countries, it could be answered by showing the reason why English arable land is worth so much less than foreign land—where the land is of equal quality, and the corn produced is of equal price.

[196]’Tis doubtless from the extraordinary Price of English Labour above that of other Countries, occasioned by English Statutes being in this Respect different from all other Laws in the World.

[196]It's definitely due to the significantly higher cost of English labor compared to other countries, caused by English laws being different from all other laws in the world.


CHAP. 13.
Of Luzerne.

La Luserne is that famous Herba Medica so much extoll’d by the Antients.

La Luserne is that well-known Herba Medica so highly praised by the ancients.

The high Esteem they had of its Use appears by the extraordinary Pains they bestow’d on its Culture.

The high regard they had for its usefulness is evident from the extraordinary effort they put into cultivating it.

[193]

[193]

Its Leaves resemble those of Trefoil: It bears a blue Blossom very like to double Violets, leaving a Pod like a Screw, which contains the Seeds about the Bigness of broad Clover, tho’ longer, and more of the Kidney-shape.

Its leaves look like those of Trefoil. It has a blue flower that closely resembles double violets, and it produces a pod shaped like a screw, which holds seeds that are about the size of broad clover, though longer and more kidney-shaped.

The Stalks grow more perpendicular than any of the other artificial Grasses that I know, slender, full of Knots and Leaves: ’Tis of very near an equal Bigness from Bottom to Top: When cut, if vigorous, the Stalks will spring out again from the Stubs, immediately below where the Scythe parted them; which makes them the sooner ready for another Mowing; an Advantage which no other Grass has.

The stalks grow more upright than any other artificial grass I know, slender and full of knots and leaves. They are nearly the same size from bottom to top. When cut, if they are vigorous, the stalks will quickly regrow from the stubs just below where the scythe cut them. This makes them ready for another mowing sooner than any other grass.

It has a Tap-root that penetrates deeper into the Bowels of the Earth, than any other Vegetable she produces.

It has a taproot that goes deeper into the earth than any other plant it produces.

Tho’ one Luserne-root be much more taper than another towards the upper Part of it, ’tis sometimes seen, that a single ho’d Plant of it has many of these perpendicular Roots, some of them springing out from the very Branches of its Crown.

Though one Luserne root is much more tapered than another at the top, it’s sometimes seen that a single plant can have many of these upright roots, some of which spring right from the branches of its crown.

Its Roots are abundantly longer than the Roots of St. Foin: I have One that measures very near Two Inches Diameter: Those which are higher than the Ground have a Bark like a Tree. Upon this account, and by its Stalks springing again just below the Place where cut off, and by the woody Hardness of its Stalks, when they stand too long without cutting, it seems that Luserne is of a Nature nearly approaching to that of a Shrub.

Its roots are significantly longer than the roots of St. Foin: I have one that’s almost two inches in diameter. The parts above the ground have a bark similar to a tree. For this reason, and because its stalks sprout again just below where they are cut, and due to the woody hardness of its stalks when they grow too long without being cut, it seems that Luserne is somewhat like a shrub.

Luserne is the only Hay in the World that can pretend to excel or equal St. Foin. I have known Instances of the pinguefying Virtue of this Medica Hay, that come up to the highest Encomiums given it by the Romans; which being to the Vulgar incredible, I forbear to relate, but leave to be confirm’d by the Experience of others, when it becomes frequent in England.

Luserne is the only hay in the world that can claim to excel or match St. Foin. I’ve heard stories about the amazing benefits of this Medica Hay that live up to the highest praises given it by the Romans; since it's hard for most people to believe, I won't share them here, but I’ll let others confirm it through their experiences once it becomes more common in England.

[194]

[194]

Luserne in Grass is much sweeter than St. Foin, or any other artificial or natural Grass. This, when ho’d, may be given to Cattle cut green, for Six Months; but then Care must be taken to[197] prevent their Swelling by its Lusciousness, and not to give them too much at once, until they be accustom’d to it.

Luserne in grass is much sweeter than St. Foin or any other type of artificial or natural grass. This, when harvested, can be given to cattle cut green for six months; however, care must be taken to prevent their swelling from its richness and not to give them too much at once until they are used to it.

[197]The Swelling of Cattle by eating too much green Luserne, Clover, or Turnep-leaves, happens only to such as chew the Cud, because they swallow more in less Time than other Cattle do; and a large Quantity of such luscious Greens being swallow’d by a Beast, fermenting to a great Degree, heats and rarifies the internal Air, which by its Spring becoming too strong for that Column of the Atmosphere that enters at the Trachea, it presses the Lungs against the Thorax so closely, that the Weight of the external Column is not of Force to open their Vesicles, and then the Circulation of the Blood is stopt, and the Beast is strangled.

[197]The swelling of cattle from eating too much green alfalfa, clover, or turnip leaves occurs only in animals that chew the cud. This is because they swallow larger amounts more quickly than other cattle. When a large quantity of these rich greens is ingested, it ferments significantly, heating and expanding the internal air. As this pressure increases, it can become too strong for the column of atmosphere entering through the trachea. This presses the lungs tightly against the chest, making it impossible for the external pressure to open their air sacs, which stops the circulation of blood and can lead to suffocation in the animal.

Most Farmers know how to prevent the Swelling, so that now-a-days it seldom happens; but when it does, there is an effectual way of curing it, if taken in Time: They cut a Hole into the Maw near the Back in a proper manner, whereat the rarified Air rushes out, and the Lungs again perform their Action of Respiration.

Most farmers know how to prevent swelling, so these days it seldom happens; but when it does, there's an effective way to treat it if caught early: they make a cut in the stomach near the back in the right way, allowing the trapped air to escape, and the lungs can function normally again.

The Quantities of Luserne Seed annually imported, and sown without Success, not discouraging People from continuing its Importation, shews there is more need of a successful Way of Planting, than recommending it in England.

The amount of Luserne Seed brought in every year and planted without success doesn't stop people from importing it, indicating that there's a greater need for a successful planting method rather than just promoting it in England.

I shall take Notice of some of the Reasons why I conclude there is no Hope of making any Improvement by planting it in England, in any manner practis’d by the Antients or Moderns.

I will point out some of the reasons why I believe there’s no hope of making any improvements by planting it in England, in any way practiced by the Ancients or Moderns.

I wonder how any one should attempt to plant it here, who has seen in Columella, and other Authors, the Description of the manner the old Romans planted it in. They chose out the very best Land, that was both pinguis and putris; they dung’d and till’d it to the greatest Perfection, and laid it out in Beds, as we do for Onions or Asparagus; they sow’d it[195] very thick, for that miserable Reason of enabling it by its Thickness the better to kill the Grass. The Beds being harrow’d very fine before Sowing, which was in the End of April; the Seed required to be speedily cover’d, lest the Sun’s Heat should spoil it. But with what Instrument must it be cover’d? For, after Sowing, the Place must not be touch’d with Iron. At medica obruitur non aratro, sed ligneis rastellis.Medica-feed is cover’d, not with the Plough, but with little (or rather light) wooden Harrows.’ Two Days Work (of a Team) were spent on this Harrowing of one Acre. Some time after it came up, they scratch’d it again and again with the same wooden Instruments: This was call’d Sarrition: Then by Runcation they weeded it over and over, Ne alterius generis herba invalidam medicam perimat. ‘Lest other Grass should kill it whilst it was weak.’ The First Crop they let stand till some of the Seed shatter’d, to fill the Ground yet fuller of Plants: After that they might cut it as young as they pleas’d; but must be sure to water it often after cutting. Then after a few Days, when it began to spring, they repeated their Runcation: and so continuing to weed out all manner of Grass for the First Two or Three Years, it used to bring Four or Six Crops a Year, and last Ten Years.

I wonder how anyone would try to plant it here, having seen in Columella and other authors how the ancient Romans did it. They selected the best land, which was both rich and decayed; they fertilized and cultivated it to perfection and laid it out in beds, just like we do for onions or asparagus. They sowed it very densely to help it outcompete the grass. The beds were finely tilled before sowing, which happened at the end of April; the seeds needed to be covered quickly, so the sun’s heat wouldn’t ruin them. But with what tool should it be covered? After sowing, the area must not be disturbed with iron. At medica obruitur non aratro, sed ligneis rastellis.Medica-feed is covered, not with the plow, but with small (or rather light) wooden harrows.’ Two days of work (with a team) were spent harrowing one acre. After some time, once it came up, they would scratch it again and again with the same wooden tools: this was called Sarrition. Then, through Runcation, they weeded it repeatedly, Ne alterius generis herba invalidam medicam perimat. ‘Lest other grass should kill it while it was weak.’ They allowed the first crop to stand until some of the seeds shed, to fill the ground with even more plants. After that, they could cut it as young as they wanted, but they had to make sure to water it often after cutting. Then, after a few days, when it started to grow again, they repeated their Runcation. By continuing to weed out all kinds of grass for the first two or three years, it would typically yield four to six crops a year and last for ten years.

English Gardeners make Forty Pounds of an Acre of Asparagus, or Cabbage-plants, with half the Labour and Expence that was bestow’d on an Acre of Roman Medica.

English gardeners produce forty pounds of asparagus or cabbage plants from an acre with half the labor and cost that was spent on an acre of Roman Medica.

We know not the Price Hay and Grass were at in Italy, while the Roman Empire was in its Glory, and Rome, then the Metropolis of the World, drew the Riches of all Parts thither; its Price must be then very high.

We don't know what the price of hay and grass was in Italy when the Roman Empire was at its peak, and Rome, the center of the world, attracted wealth from all over; the price must have been very high back then.

And the Romans had not only Servants, but plenty of Slaves, for whom they had scarce sufficient Employment: This might lessen the Expence of this[196] tedious Method of Planting, and ordering the Medica. But when the Romans were brought down to the Level of other Nations, and in Danger of being Slaves, instead of having them; and the Lands of Italy came to be cultivated by Italian Hands only; they found something else more necessary to employ them in, than the Sarritions, Runcations, and Rigations of the Medica. Their Labour being bestow’d in getting Bread for themselves, they substituted other artificial Grasses of more easy Culture, in the room of Medica, for the Food of their Cattle. They were so bigotted to all the Superstitions of their Ancestors, that they were content to lose the Use of that most beneficial Plant, rather than attempt to cultivate it by a new, tho’ more rational Method, when they were become unable any longer to continue it by the old.

And the Romans had not just servants but also many slaves, for whom they hardly had enough work. This may have reduced the cost of this[196] tedious method of planting and managing the Medica. But when the Romans were brought down to the level of other nations and were at risk of becoming slaves themselves, instead of having them, and when the lands of Italy were only cultivated by Italian hands, they found something else more necessary to occupy them than the weeding, cutting, and watering of the Medica. Their labor went into securing food for themselves, and they replaced the Medica with other artificial grasses that were easier to cultivate for their cattle's food. They were so devoted to all the superstitions of their ancestors that they were willing to lose the use of that highly beneficial plant rather than try to cultivate it using a new, albeit more rational, method when they could no longer continue with the old one.

Thus, as I take it, Superstition has chased Medica from the Roman Territories, and so little of it is planted there, that beyond the Alps I could not find one whole Acre of it.

Thus, as I see it, superstition has driven Medica out of the Roman territories, and there’s so little of it left that I couldn’t find even one whole acre of it beyond the Alps.

Luserne makes a great Improvement in the South of France: There, when their low sandy Land is well prepar’d, and very clean, they sow it alone, in March, and at Michaelmas, as we do Clover: Their sowing it at those Seasons is of a double Advantage: First, it saves the Labour of watering it, which would be impracticable for so many thousand Acres, as there are planted. Secondly, Those Seasons being much moister than that wherein the Romans sow’d it, the Grub has Opportunity of eating more of it at its first coming up; and often the Frost kills some of it. By these Advantages the Ground is less over-stock’d.

Luserne significantly improves the southern part of France: There, when their low sandy land is well-prepared and very clean, they sow it alone in March and at Michaelmas, just like we do with Clover. Sowing it at these times has two main benefits: First, it saves the labor of watering, which would be unmanageable for the thousands of acres planted. Second, those seasons are much wetter than when the Romans sowed it, giving the Grub a chance to eat more right after it sprouts; also, the frost often kills some of it. These advantages help prevent the ground from becoming overcrowded.

The Summers there are much drier than in Italy, so that the Sun scorches up the natural Grass, and suffers it not to come to a Turf till after some Years; and therefore has less need of Weeding.

The summers there are much drier than in Italy, so the sun dries up the natural grass and doesn’t allow it to form a turf until after a few years; that’s why there’s less need for weeding.

[197]

[197]

But as that natural Grass increases, the Crops of Luserne are proportionably diminish’d: And tho’ Luserne is said to last Ten or Twelve Years; yet it is in Perfection only for a very few Years. Whilst it is at best on their richest Land, and in a kind Summer, they have at Seven Crops Ten Tuns to an Acre, as I have computed them from the Relation of some of the Inhabitants of Pezenas. This was extraordinary: for I observ’d, that most of their common Crops made a very thin Swarth.

But as that natural grass grows, the crops of lucerne decrease accordingly. And even though lucerne is said to last ten or twelve years, it only really thrives for a few of those years. At its best, on their richest land and in a good summer, they can get seven crops yielding ten tons per acre, according to what some of the locals in Pezenas have told me. This was remarkable, since I noticed that most of their regular crops produced a very thin harvest.

When the Ground begins to be turffy and hard, many of the Luserne-plants die, and the rest send up very few Stalks: The People know this is the Destruction of it, and therefore I have seen some of them, in that Case, half-plow it, thinking thereby to destroy the Turf: This does for a time much strengthen the Luserne-plants; but it so much strengthens the Grass also, that the Turf grows the stronger; and then there is no Remedy but to plow it up, make the Ground clean, and replant it.

When the ground gets tough and hard, many of the lucerne plants die, and the rest produce very few stalks. People recognize this as its decline, so I've seen some of them half-plow it, hoping to get rid of the turf. This does temporarily strengthen the lucerne plants, but it also boosts the grass, making the turf even stronger. In the end, the only solution is to plow everything up, clear the ground, and replant it.

In more Northern Climates, where it rains oftener, the Ground sooner becomes hard; and in the Land otherwise most proper for Luserne, the Grass grows infinitely faster, and will be as strong a Turf in Two Years, as in the hot Countries in Ten. Upon this Account, about Paris, even near the Walls, they plow up Luserne, and sow St. Foin in its room, because that endures Grass and hard Ground better, tho’ it brings but One Crop a Year, or Two at most.

In northern climates where it rains more often, the ground hardens quicker. In areas that are otherwise ideal for lucerne, the grass grows much faster and can form a strong turf in two years, compared to ten years in hotter regions. Because of this, around Paris, even close to the city walls, they plow up lucerne and plant sainfoin instead, since it tolerates grass and hard ground better, even though it only produces one crop a year, or at most two.

And in many Places in Franche Comtè and Switzerland, I have seen Luserne in the Corners of Vineyards, not above Two or Three Perches together, which they will at any Expence have to cure their Horses when sick; since they cannot obtain, by their Culture, Quantities sufficient to maintain them as their ordinary Food, there being too much Rain, and too little[198] of the Sun’s violent Heat, to prevent the speedy Increase of Grass amongst it.

And in many places in Franche Comté and Switzerland, I have seen lucerne in the corners of vineyards, no more than two or three plots together, which they will go to great lengths to grow for their sick horses; since they cannot produce enough through their farming to provide it as regular food, as there is too much rain and not enough of the sun's intense heat to stop the quick growth of grass among it.

How then can we expect Success in sowing it in England, where Rains are yet more frequent, and the Sun is weaker? ’Tis not One Year in Ten, that the natural Grass is here scorch’d up. In our rich Land the Grass comes to a Turf very soon, and poor Land will not by the common Sowing bring Luserne to any Perfection, tho’ no Grass should annoy it.

How can we expect to succeed in planting it in England, where the rain is even more frequent, and the sun is weaker? It’s only about one year in ten that the natural grass here gets scorched. In our rich land, the grass grows into turf very quickly, and poor land won't produce lucerne to any perfection with regular sowing, even if there’s no grass to compete with it.

I have here seen Part of a Meadow Breast-plow’d, and, when the Turf was dead, dug up and planted as a Garden: After it had been drill’d with Carrots, ho’d, and made, in all Appearance, perfectly clean, it was sown with Luserne, which came up and flourish’d very well the First Year, and indifferently the Second; but, after that, the Grass came, and the Luserne grew faint; and in Three or Four Years time there was no more left, but just to shew by here-and-there a single poor Stalk, that there had been Luserne sown, except one Plant of it, which was cleansed of Grass the Third Year; and this recover’d, and sent up Abundance of Stalks for Two Years after it; and then the Grass returning, that Plant dwindled again.

I have seen a part of a meadow that was plowed, and after the grass died, it was dug up and turned into a garden. Once it was lined with carrots, hoed, and appeared perfectly clean, it was sown with alfalfa, which grew really well the first year and okay the second. But then the grass returned, and the alfalfa struggled; within three or four years, all that was left were a few lonely stalks showing that alfalfa had been grown, except for one plant that was cleared of grass in the third year. That plant thrived and produced plenty of stalks for the next two years, but then the grass came back, and that plant started to decline again.

I have often try’d it in the richest Part of my Garden, and constantly find, that, however vigorously it grows at the first, yet it soon declines, when the Grass appears amongst it, which is always the sooner, by how much the Soil (in England) is richer, unless the Spade or Hoe prevent it.

I have often tried it in the richest part of my garden and consistently find that, no matter how vigorously it grows at first, it soon declines once the grass starts growing among it. This always happens sooner in richer soil (in England), unless I use a spade or hoe to prevent it.

Here have been also many Fields of a poorer whiteish Soil sown with it, which are not very subject to be over-run with Grass, as the rich Land is; and tho’ these were so well till’d as scarce any Grass appear’d, during the many Years the Luserne liv’d therein, yet it never grew to any Perfection here neither; nor was there any one Crop worth much more than the Cutting, it was always so poor, thin, and short. And, by what Intelligence I can get, all[199] Experience proves, that every Soil in this Island is too rich, too poor, or too cold, for the Luserne Improvement by the common Husbandry.

There have also been many fields of poorer, whitish soil planted with it, which are less likely to be overtaken by grass compared to the rich land. And while these were so well cultivated that hardly any grass appeared during the many years the lucerne thrived there, it never reached any level of perfection either. No single crop was worth much more than the harvest; it was always so poor, sparse, and short. From what I can gather, experience shows that every type of soil on this island is either too rich, too poor, or too cold for lucerne cultivation with typical farming methods.

I believe every one will be confirmed in this, who shall upon full Inquiry find, that, amongst the great Quantities which have been sown in this Kingdom in that manner, never any of it was known to continue good and flourishing Three Years; and that, on the contrary, never any one Plant of it in any warm Soil, cultivated by the Hoeing manner, was known to fail here, or in any other Country, as long as the Hoeing (or Digging about it, which is equivalent) was continued to it with proper Repetitions.

I believe everyone will agree with this, who, after thorough investigation, discovers that among the large amounts that have been planted in this country in that way, none of it has ever been known to remain good and thriving for three years. On the other hand, no single plant in any warm soil, cultivated using the hoeing method, has ever been known to fail here or in any other country, as long as hoeing (or digging around it, which is the same) was consistently maintained with the right frequency.

A Multitude of such hoed Plants have I known, and are now to be seen in both poor and rich Lands: Therefore it seems possible, that Thousands of English Acres may be capable, by the Hoeing Culture, to produce Crops of Luserne every Year for an Age. For as the greater Moisture, and less intense Heat of this Climate, are, upon the Accounts mentioned, injurious to Luserne, yet this is only to such as is sown and cultivated in the common Manner, because our Climate, upon the very same Accounts, is very advantageous to hoed Luserne.

I've seen many plants grown this way, and they're now found in both poor and rich lands. So, it seems possible that thousands of English acres could yield crops of alfalfa every year for a long time through hoeing. While the higher moisture and less intense heat in this climate can harm alfalfa, this only applies to varieties sown and treated in the usual way. Our climate, for the same reasons, is actually very beneficial for hoed alfalfa.

In hot Countries, when the Summer is drier than ordinary, the Sun so scorches it, that they have fewer and much poorer Crops, than in moister Summers; viz. only Four or Five, instead of Six or Seven; but, in the driest Summer I ever knew in England, hoed Luserne yielded the most Crops.

In hot countries, when summer is drier than usual, the sun scorches the land so much that they have fewer and much poorer crops compared to wetter summers; for example, only four or five instead of six or seven. However, during the driest summer I’ve ever seen in England, hoeing lucerne produced the most crops.

Our Summer Days are longer, have more of the Sun’s Warmth, and less of his fiery Heat; he cherishes, but never burns Luserne, or any other hoed long Tap-rooted Plant in England.

Our summer days are longer, filled with more of the sun's warmth and less of its intense heat; it nurtures, but never scorches Luserne or any other deeply rooted plant in England.

The well hoed Earth, being open, receives and retains the Dews; the benign solar Influence is sufficient to put them in Motion, but not to exhale them[200] from thence. The Hoe prevents the Turf, which would otherwise by its Blades or Roots intercept, and return back the Dews into the Atmosphere, with the Assistance of a moderate Heat. So that this Husbandry secures Luserne from the Injury of a wet Summer, and also causes the Rain-water to sink down more speedily, and disperse its Riches all the Way of its Passage; otherwise the Water would be more apt to stand on the Surface, chill the Earth, and keep off the Sun and Air from drying it: For, when the Surface is dry and open, Luserne will bear a very great Degree of Heat, or grow with a mean one. I have seen this hoed Luserne, in a sheltry Place of my Garden, so much grown in a mild Winter, as to be measured Fourteen Inches and an half high at Christmas; and a very large single Plant of it, which had not been hoed for Two Years before, was laid bare by digging out the Earth all around it a Foot deep, to observe the Manner of its Tap-root; and then the Earth was thrown in again, and the Hole filled up. This was on the Twenty-seventh of September. Upon this mellowing of the Soil about it, it sent out more Stalks in October, than it had done in the whole Summer before; they grew very vigorously, until a great Snow fell in December, which also preserved the Verdure of them, till that was melted away, and a black Frost came after it, and killed those Stalks. It is probable this Plant sent out immediately new fibrous horizontal Roots, which did grow apace to extract the Nourishment from this new-made Pasture, in proportion to the quick Growth of the Stalks, which in Summer have been measured, and found to grow in Height Three Inches and an half in a Night and a Day; this being almost One Inch in Six Hours.

The well-tilled soil, being open, collects and holds onto dew; the gentle sunlight is enough to set it in motion but not to evaporate it from there. The hoe keeps the grass from interfering with the dew through its blades or roots, which would otherwise send it back into the atmosphere with the help of mild warmth. This farming method protects lucerne from the damage of a wet summer and helps rainwater to soak in more quickly, spreading its nutrients along the way; otherwise, water would tend to pool on the surface, cool the earth, and keep the sun and air from drying it out. When the surface is dry and exposed, lucerne can tolerate a high level of heat or thrive in moderate temperatures. I have seen this tilled lucerne in a sheltered spot in my garden grow significantly during a mild winter, reaching fourteen and a half inches by Christmas. A large single plant that hadn’t been hoed for two years was uncovered by digging around it a foot deep to examine its taproot; then the soil was put back in and the hole filled up. This was on the twenty-seventh of September. After loosening the soil around it, it produced more shoots in October than it had all summer long; they grew very vigorously until a heavy snowfall in December, which also preserved their greenness until it melted away and a hard frost came along, killing those shoots. It’s likely this plant immediately developed new fibrous, horizontal roots that quickly grew to absorb nutrients from this freshly created pasture, in line with the rapid growth of the shoots, which in the summer have been measured to grow three and a half inches in a day and night; that's almost one inch every six hours.

And it has been my Observation, that this Plant, in hot and cold Countries, thrives both with a much greater, or less Degree of Heat and Moisture, when it is hoed; for if it has Plenty of Nourishment, which[201] Hoeing always gives it, a very little Heat above, and the Moisture alone (which is never wanting to the deep Tap-root) suffice, and that Plenty of Food enables it the better to endure the Extremes of either Heat or Cold.

And I’ve noticed that this plant grows well in both hot and cold climates, doing better with a lot or a little heat and moisture when it’s hoed. If it gets plenty of nutrients, which hoeing always provides, just a bit of heat and the moisture from its deep tap-root is enough. This abundance of nutrients helps it handle extreme heat or cold more effectively.

We need not much apprehend the Danger of English Winters; for Luserne will endure those which are more rigorous. In the Principality of Neufchâtel the Winters are so severe, as to kill all the Rosemary left abroad; yet Luserne survives them there: This proves it more hardy than Rosemary, which is planted for Hedges in England; and here is scarce twice in an Age a Frost able to kill it.

We don’t need to worry much about the danger of English winters; Luserne can handle even tougher ones. In the principality of Neufchâtel, the winters are so harsh that they kill all the rosemary left outside, yet Luserne survives those winters. This shows it's hardier than rosemary, which is planted for hedges in England; and here, there’s hardly a frost twice in a century that’s strong enough to kill it.

I have one single Luserne-plant in a poor Arable Field, that has stood the Test of Two-and-twenty Winters, besides the Feeding of Sheep at all Seasons, and yet remains as strong as ever. What Quantity of Hay this Plant yearly produces, cannot be known, because at those times that Cattle are kept from it, the Hares constantly crop it, being sweeter than any other Grass.

I have just one Luserne plant in a poor farmland that has survived twenty-two winters, along with being grazed by sheep year-round, and it still remains as strong as ever. The amount of hay this plant produces each year is unknown because when the cattle are kept away from it, the hares constantly nibble on it, as it's sweeter than any other grass.

But this happens to be fortunately situate, where ’tis not altogether destitute of the Benefit of Hoeing. ’Tis in an Angle, where, every time the Field is till’d, the Plough goes over it in turning from the Furrows of one Land and one Head-land; but it is after the Plough is lifted out of the Ground, and turned up on one side, so that the Share only breaks the Turf very small all around it, without plowing up the Plant: Yet it has escaped it so narrowly, that the Fin of the Plough-share has split it into Four Parts; Three of which remain, and grow never the worse, but the Fourth is torn off, and the Wound healed up.

But this area is fortunately located where it isn’t completely lacking the benefit of hoeing. It’s in a corner, where every time the field is worked, the plow goes over it while turning from the furrows of one piece of land and one headland. However, this happens after the plow has been lifted out of the ground and turned on its side, so the share only breaks the turf into small pieces all around it, without actually plowing up the plant. Yet, it barely escaped damage, as the fin of the plowshare has split it into four parts; three of which remain and continue to grow just fine, while the fourth is torn off, and the wound has healed up.

By the extreme hard Winter that happened about the Year 1708, or 1709, some of the Luserne in Languedoc was killed: Yet this was no Argument of its Tenderness, but rather the contrary; because then all the Olive-trees and Walnut-trees were there killed,[202] tho’ the greatest Part of the Luserne escaped unhurt: And I did not hear one Walnut-tree was killed that Winter in England. Perhaps those in France, having being accustomed to much hotter Summers, were unable to endure the Rigour of the same Winter, that could do no Harm to the same Species in England, where our Winters do not seem to exceed some of theirs in Cold, so much as their Summers do ours in Heat. And since the Extremes are not so far asunder here, the same Degree of Cold may to our Plants seem tepid, which to those in Languedoc must seem rigorous, differing a more remote Degree from the opposite Extremity of Heat in Summer.

During the harsh winter that occurred around the year 1708 or 1709, some of the Luserne in Languedoc died. However, this didn't indicate their fragility; in fact, it was quite the opposite since many of the olive and walnut trees were killed there, while most of the Luserne survived unharmed. I didn't hear of any walnut trees dying that winter in England. Perhaps those in France, having been used to much hotter summers, couldn’t handle the harshness of that winter, which didn't seem as harmful to the same species in England, where our winters don’t appear to be colder than some of theirs, while their summers are much hotter than ours. Since the extremes aren’t as far apart here, the same degree of cold might feel mild to our plants, while it must seem severe to those in Languedoc, which differ more greatly from the opposite extreme of heat in summer.

And, besides the Difference of Heat and Cold in different Climates, there is another more necessary to be observed; and that is, the Difference of the Hardiness in different Individuals of the same Species: The same Frost that kills a faint languishing Plant of Luserne, will be despised by a robust one, which, being well fed by the Hoe, becomes a Giant cloath’d and fenced with a thick Bark, that renders it impregnable against all Weather; its Rind is to it a Coat of Mail or Buff, impenetrable by Frost: But the unhoed is generally small and weak; its thin tender Bark exposes it almost naked to the Frost; it being, for want of a sufficient Pasture, starv’d and half-dead already, ’tis the more easily killed by the Cold.

And besides the differences in heat and cold across various climates, there's another important factor to consider: the difference in hardiness among individuals of the same species. The same frost that kills a weak, feeble plant of lucerne will hardly affect a strong one, which, when well-nurtured, grows into a giant covered and protected by a thick bark that makes it resistant to all kinds of weather. Its outer layer acts like armor, shielding it from the frost. On the other hand, the unprotected plant is usually small and weak; its thin, delicate bark leaves it almost vulnerable to the frost. Lacking proper nourishment, it is already starved and half-dead, making it more susceptible to the cold.

I formerly lived some Years in Languedoc, where are many Hundred Acres of Luserne; and I never could find a very large Plant amongst it, unless in such Pieces as had been plowed up, tilled, and sown with Corn: Here indeed those Plants that remained (as always some would do) grew to an extraordinary Bulk; and One of those single tilled Plants did seem to produce a greater Quantity of Stalks, than Twenty of such as had not been plowed up; and as there were no large Plants amongst the unplowed, so there were no small amongst the plowed ones. The same thing[203] has been observed in all other Places where Luserne has been plowed[198].

I used to live for several years in Languedoc, where there are many hundreds of acres of lucerne; and I could never find any really large plants among it, unless in areas that had been plowed, cultivated, and sown with grain. In those areas, the plants that remained (as some always do) grew to an extraordinary size; and one of those single cultivated plants seemed to produce more stalks than twenty of those that hadn’t been plowed. Just as there were no large plants among the unplowed areas, there were no small ones among the plowed. The same observation[203] has been made in all other places where lucerne has been plowed[198].

[198]This Plowing is a Hoeing to the Luserne.

[198]This plowing is like hoeing for the luserne.

And in Wiltshire several Grounds of it stood some Years without ever coming to a Substance to be of any Value, tho’ the Land was whitish, and scarce any Grass appeared amongst the Luserne; and therefore its Poorness was thought to proceed from the Soil’s being improper; but when it had been broken up, and sown several Years with Corn, and afterwards lain down with St. Foin, all the Luserne-plants which remained (and they were many) grew large and strong, shooting up a Yard in Height soon after the St. Foin was cut; and if there had been a competent Number of them undestroyed by the Plough, they would have yielded Crops of an extraordinary Value, where before Plowing it grew but few Inches above the Ground.

And in Wiltshire, several areas of land remained unproductive for years, showing no signs of being valuable. The soil looked whitish, and hardly any grass grew among the lucerne, leading to the belief that its poor quality was due to unsuitable soil. However, after it was tilled and planted with corn for several years, then allowed to rest with sainfoin, all the remaining lucerne plants (and there were quite a few) grew large and strong, reaching about a yard in height shortly after the sainfoin was harvested. If a sufficient number of them had survived the plowing, they would have produced exceptionally valuable crops, whereas previously, they barely grew a few inches above the ground.

It seems that in this sort of Land the Earth grows stale, ere the Luserne arrives at a Tenth Part of its Stature: But this is most remarkable, that Tillage transforms those Luserne-plants from Dwarfs to Giants; and then they are able to contend with, if not conquer, so strong Plants as St. Foin is, tho’ before Plowing they were unable to resist the Depredations of a few hairy Spires of Grass.

It seems that in this kind of land the earth becomes unproductive before the Luserne reaches even a tenth of its potential size. However, what's really interesting is that farming changes those Luserne plants from dwarfs into giants; then they can compete with, if not defeat, tough plants like St. Foin, even though before plowing they couldn't withstand the attacks of a few tough blades of grass.

Since Tillage can thus recover Luserne, after it has long languished in the lowest Ebb of Life, and restore it to Health, Youth, and Vigour, and augment its Stature even after it has passed the Age of its full Growth; to what Bulk would it arrive, regularly planted, and hoed from its Infancy to Maturity without any Check to stint it!

Since tillage can bring back Luserne after it has been in such poor condition for a long time, and restore it to health, youth, and vigor, and even increase its size after it has already reached full growth; how much bigger could it get if it were regularly planted and cared for from its early stages to maturity without any interruptions?

We can never know how poor a Soil will bear this Plant, unless it be tried by the Hoeing Culture.

We can never know how well a poor soil will support this plant unless we test it with cultivation techniques.

For ’tis wondrous how so great a Man as Dr. Woodward should imagine, that Difference of Soil[204] should be the Reason why Apples in Herefordshire, and Cherries in Kent, succeed better than in other Places, when in truth they are seen to prosper as well almost all over England, where planted, cultivated, and preserved.

For it’s amazing how such a great man as Dr. Woodward could think that the type of soil[204] is the reason why apples in Herefordshire and cherries in Kent do better than in other places, when in reality they thrive just as well almost everywhere in England where they are planted, cultivated, and cared for.

I believe Plants are more altered as to their Growth, by being cultivated or not, than by Change of Climates differing in very many Degrees of Latitude. I say, in their Growth, not always in their Fruit; for tho’ a Peach-tree, well cultivated in a Standard, will grow here vigorously, and be very beautiful; yet its Fruit will be of little Value, unless it be planted against a good Wall: So Luserne, unless cultivated upon a well exposed Gravel, will yield little Seed in England.

I think plants are influenced more by whether they're cultivated or not than by changes in climate across different latitudes. I'm talking about their growth, not always their fruit; for example, a peach tree cultivated properly will thrive here and look beautiful, but its fruit won’t be worth much unless it’s planted against a good wall. Similarly, lucerne won't produce much seed in England unless it's grown in well-drained gravel.

The Soil to plant it on is either an hot Gravel, a very rich dry Sand, or some other rich warm Land, that has not an under Stratum of Clay, nor is too near the Springs of Water; for, if the Earth below be of a cold Nature, which I take to be occasioned by its holding of Water, the Luserne will not long prosper therein, of whatever Sort the upper Stratum of Earth may be: This may be guessed at by the Vegetables a Soil naturally produces, as Fern, and the like; which, Mr. Evelyn observes, do indicate a Soil subject to Extremities of Heat and Cold; and condemns such a Soil as accursed. I agree to that Sentence, as far as relates to Cold; but am not satisfied of its abounding with Heat; and I am sure I know some Land very subject to Fern, which is very far from being barren, when well cultivated, and well suited with Vegetables; but, from among these, Luserne must be excluded.

The soil for planting should be either hot gravel, very rich dry sand, or some other warm, fertile land that doesn’t have a layer of clay underneath and isn’t too close to water sources. If the earth below is cold, which I think happens because it holds water, the lucerne won’t thrive there, no matter what the top layer of soil is like. You can tell this by the types of plants that naturally grow in the soil, like ferns, which Mr. Evelyn notes indicate a soil that experiences extremes of heat and cold, and he condemns such soil as cursed. I agree with that judgment regarding cold, but I’m not convinced about the heat. I know some land that is very prone to ferns but is far from barren when well cultivated and properly supplied with plants; however, lucerne must be excluded from those.

Luserne in hot Countries grows best near Rivers, where its Roots reach the Water, which helps to mitigate the excessive Heat of the Climate; but here the Heats are so moderate, that if Luserne-roots are in Water (for ’tis that that makes Earth cold) it diminishes[205] too much the just Proportion of Heat, which Luserne requires.

Luserne grows best in hot countries near rivers, where its roots can access water, helping to ease the extreme heat of the climate. However, in this area, the temperatures are so mild that if the Luserne roots are in water (since that cools the soil too much), it reduces the right amount of heat that Luserne needs. [205]

The natural Poorness of an hot Gravel may be compensated by Dung, more Heat, and the Benefit of the Hoe.

The natural poor quality of hot gravel can be improved with manure, additional heat, and the advantage of using a hoe.

The natural Richness of the other sorts of Land being increased by hoeing and cleansing it from Grass, Luserne will thrive therein with the less Heat; for what the Soil wants of one of these Two Qualities, must be made up with the other; and it has grown high in hoed rich Ground at Christmas, when that in Land of an hotter Nature, but poorer, has not been able to peep out, for want of more Nourishment: So, if rich Land be clayey, very wet and cold, tho’ very rich, it requires much Heat, for as high a Growth of Luserne at Midsummer.

The natural richness of different types of land increases when it's tilled and cleared of grass, allowing alfalfa to grow better with less heat. If the soil lacks one of these two qualities, it needs to compensate with the other. Alfalfa can thrive in well-tilled, nutrient-rich ground by Christmas, even when land that’s hotter but poorer isn’t able to grow at all due to insufficient nutrients. However, if rich land is heavy clay, very wet, and cold, it still needs a lot of heat to achieve the same high growth of alfalfa as it would in midsummer.

The best Season of planting it in England is in April, after the Danger of Frost is over; for a small Frost will destroy the whole Crop, when the Plants first appear; and too much Wet, with cold Weather, will rot the Seeds in the Ground; so that about the Middle of April may be generally esteemed as the best Season for sowing this Seed.

The best time to plant it in England is in April, after the risk of frost has passed; because even a light frost can kill the entire crop when the plants first emerge. Additionally, excessive wetness combined with cold weather can rot the seeds in the ground. Therefore, around the middle of April is usually considered the best time for sowing this seed.

The hoed Plants of Luserne having larger Roots, and yielding more Crops than those of St. Foin, Reason seems to require, that the Number of the former be less.

The hoed plants of lucerne have larger roots and produce more crops than those of sainfoin. It makes sense that there should be fewer of the former.

But, on the other hand, if we consider, that as the Luserne-roots exceed the St. Foin in Bigness, so they also do in Length, by as great a Proportion; being generally less taper, and as they go deeper, they have more Earth to nourish them; they also require a better Soil, and more frequent Aids from the Hoe; and, by their extraordinary quick Growth, receive a speedier Relief from it, than the Roots of St. Foin do.

But, on the other hand, if we think about the fact that Luserne roots are larger than St. Foin roots, they are also longer by a similar proportion; being generally less tapered, and as they grow deeper, they have more soil to nourish them. They also need better soil and more frequent help from the hoe; and due to their exceptionally fast growth, they get more immediate relief from it compared to St. Foin roots.

Thus, if by reaching deeper in a better Soil, and being more hoed, Luserne receives, from a square[206] Perch of Ground, Nourishment in a proportion double to that whereby its Roots exceed those of St. Foin in Bigness, then I do not see why we should not leave the Number of Luserne-plants double to the Number of those we leave in St. Foin.

Thus, if by digging deeper into better soil and tending it more, Lucerne gets, from a square[206] perch of ground, nourishment that's double the amount that its roots get compared to those of Clover in size, then I don’t see why we shouldn’t leave twice as many Lucerne plants as we do of Clover.

But if the Excess of Nourishment were no more than the Excess of Bigness of Roots, I think an equal Number of Plants should be left in Luserne, and in St. Foin: Yet since the hot or cold Constitution of a Plant, and also the Quantity it can produce, ought to be considered, as well as its Bulk, in relation to the Nourishment it requires, more Trials are necessary for determining the exact Number of Luserne-plants proper to be placed on a square Perch, than have been hitherto made.

But if the excess of nourishment were just like the excess size of roots, I think the same number of plants should be left in lucerne and in sainfoin. However, since the plant's heat or cold constitution, as well as the quantity it can produce, should be considered alongside its size in relation to the nourishment it needs, we need more trials to determine the exact number of lucerne plants that should be planted on a square perch than have been done so far.

Perhaps it will be thought heterodox to maintain by any Arguments, that to err in falling somewhat short of the just Number, is not of worse Consequence, than exceeding it.

Perhaps it will be considered unconventional to argue that making a mistake by falling slightly short of the correct number is not worse than going over it.

Where they stand at Four or Five Inches asunder in the Rows, ’tis observed, that tho’ the Intervals betwixt the Rows be wide, yet the Plants are much the larger, and produce more that stand in the outside Rows (the Ground without being clean); and especially those at each End of the outside Rows, that is, the Corner-plants, are largest of all. I need not say, that had all the other Plants as much Room and Tillage as the Corner ones have, they would be as large, and produce each as much Hay; for those which stand perfectly single in Places by themselves, are seen to be larger, and produce more, than those Corner ones; and of the larger and longer Roots our Stock does consist, the more Nourishment they are capable of taking, as has been shewn. Where some Plants of the Luserne have been planted Two Feet asunder, in poor dry Land, which was kept clean from Weeds, and frequently digged, each Plant has sent forth upward of Three Hundred Stalks,[207] and these have been Six or Seven Inches high by the Middle of March.

Where they are spaced four or five inches apart in the rows, it’s noted that even though the gaps between the rows are wide, the plants are significantly larger and yield more when positioned in the outer rows (the soil isn’t well maintained). Particularly, those at the ends of the outer rows, the corner plants, are the largest of all. I don’t need to mention that if all the other plants had as much space and care as the corner ones, they would be just as large and produce as much hay; for those that stand completely alone in their spots are seen to be bigger and yield more than the corner plants. Our stock consists of the larger and longer roots, which can absorb more nutrients, as has been demonstrated. Where some alfalfa plants have been spaced two feet apart in poor, dry soil that was kept free of weeds and regularly tilled, each plant has produced over three hundred stalks, and these have reached six or seven inches high by the middle of March.[207]

And it must be likewise observ’d, that the Crop will be produc’d in Proportion to the Nourishment it receives; for if the most gigantic Luserne plant, which, when pamper’d by the Hoe, has made a Produce more like a Tree than an Herb, remains a few Years without that or some equivalent Culture, it will by little and little cease to produce more than a few poor sickly Stalks, just to shew its Species; and then, if this Culture be repeated, will recover its pristine Strength, and yield as great a Crop as ever; but, if that be longer omitted, will die: The Vastness of its Root avails nothing, unless it has Food in proportion to it.

And it should also be noted that the crop will grow in proportion to the nourishment it receives; for if the largest alfalfa plant, which, when nurtured properly, has produced something more like a tree than a plant, goes a few years without that care or some equivalent attention, it will gradually stop producing more than a few weak, sickly stalks, just to show its species; and then, if this care is resumed, it will regain its original strength and produce as much as it ever did; but if that care is neglected for too long, it will die: The size of its root means nothing if it doesn’t have enough food to match.

Hence it appears, that the most fatal Disease incident to Luserne is starving, and that rarely suffers any of its Plants to arrive at the full Period of their Growth or Age; it prevents their Fertility even in the Prime of their Youth, and kills them before they have liv’d out Half, or perhaps the Tenth Part, of their Days. How long its Life might otherwise be, nobody knows, unless a Plant could be found to die when well fed; for when it is, ’tis so tenacious of Life, that, I am told, beheading will not dispatch it[199].

Hence, it seems that the deadliest issue affecting Luserne is starvation, which rarely allows any of its plants to reach full maturity or age. It hampers their ability to reproduce even in the prime of their youth and causes them to die before they have lived half, or maybe even a tenth, of their lifespan. No one knows how long they could live otherwise, unless a plant could be found that dies when properly nourished; for when it is well-fed, it clings to life so stubbornly that, I've heard, even chopping it off won't kill it. A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

[199]But I have cut off the Heads of some myself to try, and could not find that any one would sprout again, tho’ St. Foin will; perhaps I tried at the wrong Season.

[199]But I've cut off a few heads myself to see if they'd grow back, and I couldn't find any that did, though St. Foin will; maybe I was trying at the wrong time.

’Tis therefore necessary, that our Rows be plac’d at such a Distance, as that their Intervals may be wide enough for the Hoe-plough to raise an artificial Pasture, sufficient to sustain the Number of Plants in them.

It’s therefore necessary that our rows are placed at a distance so that the spaces between them are wide enough for the hoe-plough to create an artificial pasture, sufficient to support the number of plants in them.

Whoever shall make Trials of this Husbandry (for that is all I propose to others), I would advise them to begin with Rows that have Intervals of Thirty-three Inches; for, if they begin with much[208] narrower Distances, they may be by that means disappointed of Success: But tho’ they should afterwards find a Way to hoe them at somewhat nearer Distances; yet the Loss of a few Perches of Ground would not be much; neither can they be wholly lost, since the Roots of these Plants may be prov’d to extend much farther horizontally, than from Row to Row at that Distance. And the wider the Intervals are, the more Earth will be till’d in a Perch of Ground; because Six Rows, which will be therein at Thirty-three Inches Distance, will admit the Hoe-plough to till more Earth, than Nine Rows at Twenty-two Inches Distance from each other: And, besides, ’tis not proper, that every time of hoeing, the Plough should come very near to the Plants, unless when Grass comes amongst them; and then they may, in Thirty-three Inch Spaces, be perfectly cleansed in this manner: viz. Plow a good Furrow from each Side of every Row; and then with Harrows, or other Instruments proper for that Purpose, going cross them, you will pull out both Earth and Grass from betwixt the Plants; then, after a convenient Time, plow these Furrows back again to the Rows; this will in a manner transplant the upper Part of the Roots, and bury the Grass, tho’ it be not dead, by lying open to be dry’d by the Sun: Then harrow the Ground to break it more, and to level it, and go once over it with a very light Roller, to the End that the Hay may be raked up the cleaner.

Whoever decides to test this farming technique (which is what I'm suggesting to others) should start with rows that have 33-inch spaces. If they begin with much narrower distances, they might end up being disappointed with the results. Even if they later find a way to hoe them a bit closer together, they won’t lose much land overall because the roots of these plants can actually spread much further horizontally than the space between the rows at that distance. The wider the spaces, the more ground will be tilled in each plot. Six rows spaced 33 inches apart will allow for more tilling than nine rows spaced 22 inches apart. Also, it’s not ideal for the plow to come too close to the plants during every hoeing, except when weeds grow among them. In those cases, with 33-inch spaces, you can thoroughly clean them by doing the following: First, plow a good furrow on each side of every row. Then, using harrows or other suitable tools across the rows, you’ll remove both soil and weeds from between the plants. After a suitable time, plow these furrows back toward the rows. This will effectively reposition the upper part of the roots and bury the grass, even if it’s not dead, so it can dry out in the sun. Next, harrow the ground to break it up more and level it, then go over it once with a very light roller to ensure the hay can be raked up more neatly.

I am aware of the common Prejudice, which is, that People, when they have never seen a Plantation of these Plants in Perfection, are apt to form to themselves the Idea of such small ones as they have been used to see; and thence imagine it impossible that this (tho’ a double) Number should be sufficient to make a Crop. But they might, with equal Reason, imagine the same of Apple-trees at a Year’s Growth, which are less than these at the same Age;[209] and so plant a Thousand Trees in the Room proper for one. The Antients direct the Planting of Seventeen Cytisus Plants in a Perch of Ground; and I do not believe, that ever those Seventeen could yield a Crop equal to Two hundred Twenty-four Luserne-plants; for as many Ounces of Hay as each of these yields, so many Ton of Hay will one Crop of an Acre produce: Thus by weighing the Product of one Plant (supposing them all equal) the Quantity of the Crop may be determin’d, and prov’d greater than Fancy from their Number represents.

I understand the common misconception that people tend to have: when they haven't seen a fully grown plantation of these plants, they're likely to picture the small ones they're used to seeing. From this, they assume it's impossible for this (even though it's a double) number of plants to produce a harvest. But they could just as reasonably think the same about apple trees after a year of growth, which are smaller than these at the same age; and thus, they might plant a thousand trees in a space meant for one. The ancients recommended planting seventeen Cytisus plants in a perch of land, and I don't believe that those seventeen could produce a harvest equal to two hundred twenty-four alfalfa plants. For every ounce of hay each of these produces, that's how many tons of hay one crop from an acre will yield. Therefore, by measuring the output of one plant (assuming they're all the same), the total crop size can be determined and shown to be greater than what one might guess based on their number.[209]

  s. d.
April 14. One single uncultivated plant of lucerne had thirty-one stalks, which weighed green by silver money. 23 0
24. The same dried to hay, weighed  6 6
14. The stalks of a single green alfalfa plant weighed. 56 0
24. The same dried 14 6
14. A row eighteen inches long with five average plants weighs one and a half pounds when green.  
24. Dried to hay, it weighed 28 6
25. One foot of a hoe'd row, consisting of one hundred and sixty stalks from two Luserne plants that are six or seven years old, weighed two pounds when fresh.  
But the same dried, by the 9th of May, weighed no more than 31 6
Which is about three tons per acre.  

This I am certain of, that the least competent Number of Plants will bring the greatest Number of Crops: since I see the Stalks of a single ho’d Plant grow higher in Fifteen Days, than one amongst near Neighbours does in Thirty Days.

This I am certain of, that even a small number of plants can produce the highest crop yield: I’ve seen the stalks of a single tended plant grow taller in fifteen days than a nearby one does in thirty days.

The greatest Difference between the Culture of this and St. Foin is, that Luserne Rows should be more grown, before the Plants be made single in them by the Hand-hoe, lest the Fly should destroy some[210] afterwards, and then they might become too thin. For Luserne is sometimes eaten by the Fly, as Turneps are, tho’ St. Foin be never liable to that Misfortune, if sown in a proper Season. Luserne must also be more frequently ho’d[200], in some Proportion to the more frequent Crops it produces.

The main difference between the culture of this and St. Foin is that Luserne Rows should grow more before the plants are thinned out by hand hoeing, to prevent the Fly from damaging some later on, which could make them too sparse. Luserne can sometimes get eaten by the Fly, like Turnips do, even though St. Foin is never at risk of that if planted at the right time. Luserne also needs to be hoed more often, in proportion to the more frequent crops it yields.

[200]The Hoe-plough is the Instrument to bring it to Perfection: but then I doubt it must lie still some Years, lest the plow’d Earth injure the Hay that is made upon it; and when it is come to a Turf, and the Luserne wants renewing, the Four coulter’d Plough is the only Instrument that can prepare the Turf to be kill’d, and cure the Luserne; which Plough must be used in the following Manner: Turn its Furrows toward one Row, and from the next; that is, plow round one Row, and that will finish Two Intervals, and so on; and the next Plowing must be towards those Rows, from whence they were turn’d the first time; take care the first Furrows do not lie long enough on the Rows to kill the Plants, which will be much longer in Winter than in Summer. But you may leave every Third or Fourth Interval unhoed for making the Hay on, which will be yet more beneficial, if the Swarths in mowing should fall thereon. This unhoed Interval may be plowed when there is Occasion, and another left in its stead.

[200]The hoe plow is the tool that perfects it: but I think it should stay untouched for a few years to prevent the plowed earth from damaging the hay that’s grown on it. Once it becomes a turf and the alfalfa needs to be refreshed, the four-coulter plow is the only tool that can prepare the turf for killing and rejuvenate the alfalfa. This plow should be used as follows: turn its furrows toward one row and away from the next; that is, plow around one row, which will finish two intervals, and keep doing this. The next plowing should go back toward the rows that were turned the first time; be careful that the first furrows don’t stay on the rows long enough to kill the plants, which will take much longer to recover in winter than in summer. However, you can leave every third or fourth interval unhoed for making hay, which will be even more beneficial if the clumps of grass for mowing fall there. This unhoed interval can be plowed when necessary, and another can be left in its place.

I shall not go about to compute the Difference of Expence bestow’d in the Roman Culture and in this; yet it will appear theirs was incomparably more chargeable, and that the Excess of Charge was occasioned by their Error in the Theory of Husbandry.

I won’t try to calculate the difference in expense spent on the Roman culture compared to this one; however, it will be clear that theirs was far more costly, and that the added expense was caused by their mistakes in agricultural theory.

They sow’d it so thick, that the Plants must needs be very small; and when Ten of them were no bigger than one good single ho’d Plant would have been, in the same Space of the Earth’s Surface, they could have but a Ninth Part of the Earth’s Depth, which the one would have had. The Defect of Depth must be therefore made up, in some Measure, by the extraordinary Richness of the Surface. Upon this Account few Lands were capable of bearing Medica. Their sowing it so late made the first Waterings necessary; and the Shortness of the Roots required the repeated Rigations, after the Crops were cut: For[211] Columella saith in Lib. ii. Cap. 11. Cum secueris autem, sæpius eam rigato. But had it been cultivated by the hoeing Method, the Tap-roots would have descended as deep as a Well, and, from the Springs below, have sent up Water to the Plants, besides what the Hoe would have caused the horizontal Roots to receive from Dews at the Surface above. At how much a cheaper Rate Water is supply’d by these Means, than by carrying it perhaps a great Way, and then sprinkling it by Hand over the Beds, which were made Ten feet wide between Path and Path for that Purpose, let any one judge; as also what a laborious Task it was to pick out the Grass with Fingers from amongst it, in the hard dry Ground in the Summer, after mowing the Crop, as Columella directs in his foremention’d Chapter, which the Horse-hoe would have done with Ease, at a Twentieth Part of that Expence. However, since they saw the Medica was as impatient of Grass as the Vineyards were, ’tis a Wonder they did not give it the same Culture with the Bidens, which would have been much better and cheaper, than to cleanse the Medica with Fingers. Indeed Fingers were made before the Bidens; but sure the Effect of its Use in raising Juices to the Vine, had inspired the Romans with more judicious Speculations, than to give that for a Reason why they ho’d the Medica with their Fingers, rather than with the Bidens.

They sowed it so densely that the plants had to be quite small; and when ten of them ended up being no larger than one healthy, well-sized plant would have been, in the same plot of land, they could have only reached a depth of one-ninth of what the single plant would have. The lack of depth had to be compensated, to some degree, by the extraordinary richness of the surface. Because of this, few lands could support Medica. Sowing it so late made the initial watering necessary, and the shortness of the roots required repeated watering after the crops were harvested. As Columella says in Lib. ii. Cap. 11, Cum secueris autem, sæpius eam rigato. But if it had been cultivated using the hoeing method, the taproots would have grown as deep as a well, drawing water up from the springs below, in addition to what the hoe would have caused the horizontal roots to absorb from dew on the surface. Just think about how much cheaper it is to provide water this way than by possibly carrying it a long distance and then sprinkling it by hand over the beds, which were made ten feet wide between paths for this purpose. It was also a laborious task to pick out the grass with fingers from the hard, dry ground in summer after mowing the crop, as Columella directs in his previously mentioned chapter, which the horse hoe could have done easily at a twentieth of the cost. However, since they saw that Medica was just as intolerant of grass as the vineyards were, it's surprising they didn’t cultivate it the same way as the Bidens, which would have been much better and cheaper than cleaning the Medica by hand. Indeed, fingers came before the Bidens; but surely the result of using it to encourage the vines’ juices had inspired the Romans with more sensible ideas than to justify hoeing the Medica by hand instead of using the Bidens.

Oh! But this was made with Iron, and Medica had, in those Times, an Antipathy to Iron; and after it was sown, the Place must not be touch’d by that Metal; therefore the Seed must not be cover’d with a Plough, nor with Iron Harrows. But if they had made Trials enough, to know that half an Inch was a proper Depth to cover this Seed at, these Virtuosi would have been convinc’d, that it had no less Antipathy to these Instruments, of what Matter soever they were made, if they bury’d it Five or Six[212] Inches deep, which the Plough must do, and the Weight of Iron Harrows in such fine Ground not much less. Had the Plough been all of Wood, the Furrow would have lain never the lighter upon the Seed; and if the wooden Harrows had been loaded with a Weight capable of pressing it down as deep, it would have been no more able to rise, than if it had been buried with Iron Harrows: This Columella seems to be sensible of, when he says, Rastellis ligneis; viz. That it was not sufficient for them to be made of Wood, unless they were diminutive; for then they were light ones. ’Tis probable the Plough suffer’d none to come up, and the heavy Harrows very few, tho’ perhaps Plants enough, had they calculated what Number were sufficient: But unless the Ground were cover’d with them at first, it seems they had not Patience to wait till the Plants grew large enough, to fill it with a bare competent Number, and thought it not worth while to weed and water, what they fansied to be an insufficient Number. ’Twas expected that the Thickness of the Plants should help to kill the Grass: Yet upon due Observation ’tis found, that when their excessive Numbers have brought a Famine amongst them, they are forc’d to prey upon one another; and tho’ the stronger survive, yet even those are so weaken’d by Hunger, that they become the less able to contend with Grass, whose good Fortune it was, that Superstition would not permit the Romans to interpose, by attacking it with Iron Weapons.

Oh! But this was made with iron, and Medica had, at that time, an aversion to iron; after it was sown, the area couldn't be touched by that metal. So the seed couldn't be covered with a plow or iron harrows. But if they had tested enough to know that half an inch was the right depth to cover this seed, these Virtuosi would have realized that it had just as much aversion to these tools, no matter what material they were made from, if they buried it five or six [212] inches deep, which the plow would do, and the weight of iron harrows in such fine soil wouldn't be much less. If the plow had been made entirely of wood, the furrow wouldn't have been any lighter on the seed; and if the wooden harrows were loaded with weight capable of pressing it down as deep, it wouldn’t have been able to rise any more than if it had been buried with iron harrows. This Columella seems to recognize when he says, Rastellis ligneis; that it wasn't enough for them to be made of wood unless they were small. Because then they would be lightweight. It’s likely the plow didn't allow many to come up, and the heavy harrows let very few, though perhaps there were plenty of plants if they'd figured out how many were enough. But unless the ground was covered with them at first, it seems they didn't have the patience to wait until the plants grew large enough to fill it with a bare adequate number, and thought it wasn't worth it to weed and water what they considered an insufficient number. They expected the density of the plants would help eliminate the grass. Yet upon proper observation, it’s found that when their excessive numbers caused a shortage among them, they were forced to prey on one another; and although the stronger survive, even those are weakened by hunger, making them less capable of competing with the grass, which had the good fortune that superstition didn’t allow the Romans to intervene by attacking it with iron weapons.

I hope these Hints may be improv’d for the Abolition of old Errors, and for the Discovery of new Truths; to the end that Luserne may be planted in a more reasonable Method than has been commonly practis’d: And when the Theory is true, ’tis impossible the Practice should be false, if rightly apply’d; but if it fail of Success, the Event will be a[213] Proof either of a Misapplication, or that the Theory is false.

I hope these suggestions can help eliminate old mistakes and uncover new truths, so that Luserne can be cultivated in a more logical way than what has typically been done. When the theory is sound, it’s impossible for the practice to be wrong if applied correctly; however, if it doesn’t succeed, it will either prove that there was a misapplication or that the theory itself is flawed.

Luserne should be order’d for Hay in the same Manner as is directed for St. Foin in the foregoing Chapter: But it must be observ’d, that Luserne is more worsted by being suffer’d to survive its Virginity before cutting; and therefore the richest and most nourishing Hay is cut whilst the Stalks are single, without any collateral Branches shooting out of them; and when they are so, neither Blossoms nor even their Buds appear. But of that sown in the old Fashion, the last Crops, for want of a new Supply of Nourishment, grow so slowly, that ere it is high enough to be cut, the Blossoms are blown out, and the Stalks, tho’ very small, are become woody, hard, and dry, and make the Hay nothing near so nourishing as that of the first Crops.

Luserne should be ordered for hay in the same way as directed for St. Foin in the previous section. However, it's important to note that Luserne is greatly affected if it is allowed to remain uncut for too long. The best and most nutritious hay is cut when the stalks are upright and without any side branches. At this stage, neither blossoms nor even their buds appear. In contrast, hay harvested using the old method tends to grow slowly because it lacks a new supply of nourishment. By the time it reaches a height suitable for cutting, the blossoms have already opened, and the stalks, although very small, have become woody, hard, and dry, making the hay far less nutritious than that from the first crops.

But in that which is ho’d, the last Crops of it will, by virtue of the greater Quantity of Nourishment it receives, grow faster, and be of an Height fit to cut before blossoming, and thence being as young and vigorous, make as good Hay as the first Crops; so that Hoeing does not only procure more and larger Crops, but also better Hay.

But with what is hoed, the last crops will, due to the larger amount of nourishment they get, grow faster and reach a height suitable for cutting before they blossom. As a result, being younger and more vigorous, they can produce hay of the same quality as the first crops. So, hoeing not only leads to more and bigger crops but also to better hay.

This is most certain, that unless we can keep our Luserne pretty clean from natural Grass, we cannot expect it to succeed, let the Soil be never so proper.

This is definitely true: unless we can keep our Luserne fairly free from natural grass, we can't expect it to thrive, no matter how suitable the soil is.


[214]

[214]

CHAP. 14.
Of Change of Species.

I. That Plants of the most different Nature feed on the same Sort of Food.

I. That plants of very different kinds nourish themselves on the same type of food.

II. That there is no Plant but what must rob any other Plant within its Reach.

II. Every plant has to take resources from other plants nearby.

III. That a Soil which is proper to one Sort of Vegetable once, is, in Respect of the Sort of Food it gives, proper to it always.

III. A type of soil that is suitable for one kind of plant is, in terms of the type of food it provides, always suitable for that plant.

If any one of these Three Propositions be true, as I hope to prove all of them are, then it will follow, that there is no need to change the Species of Vegetables from one Year to another, in respect to the different Food the same Soil is, tho’ falsely, supposed to yield[201].

If any one of these Three Propositions is true, as I hope to prove all of them are, then it will follow that there's no need to change the types of Vegetables from one year to another based on the different food that the same soil is, though incorrectly, thought to produce[201].

[201]For if all Plants rob one another, it must be because they all feed on the same Sort of Food; and, admitting they do, there can be no Necessity of changing the Species of them, from one Soil to another; but the same Quantity of the same Food, with the same Heat and Moisture which maintains any Species one Year, must do it any other Year.

[201]If all plants compete with each other, it must be because they all consume the same type of nutrients; and if that's the case, there's no need to change the species from one soil to another. The same amount of the same nutrients, along with the same heat and moisture that sustains any species for one year, should suffice for any other year.

The common Opinion is contrary to all these (as it must be, if contrary to any one of them): And since an Error in this fundamental Principle of Vegetation is of very ill Consequence; and since Dr. Woodward, who has been serviceable in other respects[202] to this Art, has unhappily fallen in with the Vulgar in this Point; his Arguments for this Error require to be answer’d in the first Place.

The general opinion goes against all of these (which it must, if it contradicts any one of them): And since a mistake in this fundamental principle of Vegetation has serious consequences; and since Dr. Woodward, who has been helpful in other areas [202] of this field, has unfortunately aligned with the common belief on this point; his arguments for this mistake need to be addressed first.

[202]By proving, in his Experiments, that Earth is the Pabulum of Plants.

[202]By demonstrating, in his experiments, that Earth is the food source for plants.

[215]

[215]

The Doctor says[203] ‘It is not possible to imagine how one uniform, homogeneous Matter, having its Principles, or original Parts, all of the same Substance, Constitution, Magnitude, Figure, and Gravity, should ever constitute Bodies so egregiously unlike, in all those Respects, as Vegetables of different Kinds are; nay, even as the different Parts of the same Vegetable.’

The Doctor says[203] ‘It’s hard to believe how one uniform, uniform Matter, with its Principles, or original Parts, all of the same Substance, Composition, Size, Shape, and Weight, could ever form Bodies that are so extremely unlike, in all those aspects, as different kinds of Vegetables are; not to mention the different Parts of the same Vegetable.’

[203]In Philos. Trans. No. 253.

__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__In Philos. Trans. No. 253.

‘That there should be that vast Difference in them, in their several Constitutions, Makes, Properties, and Effects, and yet all arise from the very same Sort of Matter, would be very strange.’

‘That there should be such a huge difference in them, in their various structures, characteristics, and effects, and yet all come from the same kind of matter, would be quite strange.’

Answer. ’Tis very probable, that the terrestrial Particles which constitute Vegetables, tho’ inconceivably minute, may be of great Variety of Figure, and other Differences; else they could not be capable of the several Ferments, &c. they must undergo in the Vessels of Plants. Their Smalness can be no Objection to their Variety, since even the Particles of Light are of various Kinds.

Answer. It's very likely that the tiny particles that make up vegetables, although incredibly small, can have a wide variety of shapes and other differences; otherwise, they wouldn't be able to handle the various processes, &c. they must go through in the vessels of plants. Their small size isn't a reason against their variety, since even particles of light come in different types.

But as the Doctor asserts, ‘That each Part of the same Vegetable requires a peculiar specific Matter for its Formation and Nourishment; and that there are very many and different Ingredients to go to the Composition of the same individual Plants;’

But as the Doctor says, ‘That each part of the same Vegetable needs a specific type of matter for its formation and nourishment; and that there are many different ingredients that make up the composition of the same individual plants;’

From hence must be inferred, that the same Plant takes in very many and different Ingredients (and it is proved, that no Plant refuses any Ingredient[204] that is capable of entering its Roots. Tho’ the terrestrial Particles which nourish Vegetables, be not perfectly homogeneous; yet most of the various[216] Tastes and Flavours of Plants are made in and by the Vessels[205].

From this, we can conclude that the same plant absorbs many different ingredients (and it has been shown that no plant rejects any ingredient that can enter its roots). Although the soil particles that nourish plants are not perfectly uniform, most of the different tastes and flavors of plants are produced in and by their vessels.

[204]Dr. Grew, in his Anatomy of Plants, by microscopical Inspection, found, that the outer Superficies of Roots was of a spongy Substance; and ’tis well known, that no such Body can refuse to imbibe whatever Liquor comes in Contact with it, but will by its springy Porosity absorb any sort of Moisture.

[204]Dr. Grew, in his Anatomy of Plants, found through microscopic examination that the outer surface of roots was made of a spongy material. It’s well known that such a substance cannot resist absorbing any liquid that comes into contact with it; instead, its porous structure allows it to take in all kinds of moisture.

[205]We are convinced, that ’tis the Vessels of Plants that make the different Flavours; because there is none of these Flavours in the Earth of which they are made, until that has enter’d and been alter’d by the vegetable Vessels.

[205]We believe that it's the structures in plants that create different flavors because none of these flavors exist in the soil from which they grow until they have entered and been transformed by the plant structures.

Doctor Woodward says, ‘That Water will pass Pores and Interstices, that neither Air, nor any other Fluid, will: This enables it to enter the finest Tubes and Vessels of Plants, and to introduce the terrestrial Matter, conveying it to all Parts of them; whilst each, by means of Organs ’tis endow’d with for the Purpose, intercepts, and assumes into itself, such Particles as are suitable to its own Nature[206]; letting the rest pass on through the common Ducts.’

Doctor Woodward says, 'Water can pass through pores and tiny openings in a way that neither air nor any other liquid can. This allows it to enter the smallest tubes and vessels of plants and carry essential nutrients to every part of them. Each plant, with its specialized organs, intercepts and absorbs the particles that are suitable for its own needs while allowing the rest to continue moving through the common ducts.'

[206]If the Doctor’s Plants were so nice in leaving vegetable Matter behind, quiet and undisturb’d, ’tis a Wonder they would take up the mineral Matter, as, he says, they did, that kill’d themselves with Nitre.

[206]If the Doctor’s plants were so great at leaving organic material behind, calm and undisturbed, it’s surprising they would absorb the mineral matter, as he claims they did, which ultimately harmed them with Nitre.

These Plants might, with much less Difficulty, have distinguish’d the mineral Matter from the vegetable Matter, than they could distinguish the different Particles of vegetable Matter from one another, and must have been very unwise to chuse out the Nitre (their Poison) from the Water and Earth, and to leave the vegetable Particles behind; none of which could be so improper to them as the Nitre.

These plants could have much more easily separated the mineral matter from the vegetable matter than they could distinguish the different types of vegetable matter from each other, and it would have been very foolish for them to pick out the nitrates (their poison) from the water and earth while leaving the vegetable particles behind; none of which could be as unsuitable for them as the nitrates.

It may perhaps be objected, that such like pernicious Matter kills a Plant by only destroying its Roots, and by closing the Pores; which prevents the Nourishment from entering to maintain its Life; and that such Matter doth not itself enter to act as Poison upon the Sap, or upon the Vessels of the Body, or Leaves: But it plainly appears that it doth enter, and act as Poison; for when some of the Roots of a Mint, growing in Water, are put into salt Water, it kills the whole Plant, although the rest of the Roots remaining in the fresh Water were sufficient to maintain it, if the other Roots had been cut off at the Time they were removed into the Salt Water; and also all the Leaves, when dead, will be full of Salt.

It might be argued that harmful substances only kill a plant by destroying its roots and clogging the pores, which stops nutrients from getting in to sustain its life. It’s said that these substances don’t actually penetrate the plant to poison the sap, the vessels, or the leaves. However, it’s clear that they do penetrate and act as poison. For example, if some of the roots of a mint plant growing in water are placed in saltwater, it will kill the entire plant, even though the other roots left in the fresh water would have been enough to keep it alive, assuming the other roots had been cut off when moved to the saltwater. Additionally, all the dead leaves will be filled with salt.

Or if the Juice of wild Garlick-seed be made use of instead of the salt Water, it will have the same Effect; and every one of the Mint-leaves will have a strong Taste of Garlick in it.

Or if you use the juice of wild garlic seeds instead of salt water, it will have the same effect; and each of the mint leaves will have a strong garlic flavor.

Here then he says plainly, That each Plant receives the terrestrial Matter in gross, both suitable and[217] unsuitable to its Nature, retains the suitable Particles for its Augment, and the unsuitable lets pass through it. And in another Place he says they are exhal’d into the Atmosphere.

Here he clearly states that each plant takes in soil material as a whole, both what is suitable and what isn't for its nature. It keeps the suitable particles for growth and allows the unsuitable ones to pass through. In another place, he mentions that they are released into the atmosphere.

And this will appear to be the true Case of Plants; and directly contradicts what he advances, in saying, ‘That each Sort of Grain takes forth that peculiar Matter that is proper for its own Nourishment. First, the Wheat draws off those Particles that suit the Body of that Plant, the rest lying all quiet and undisturb’d the while. And when the Earth has yielded up all them, those that are proper for Barley, a different Grain, remain still behind, till the successive Crops of that Corn fetch them forth too; and so the Oats and Pease in their turn, till, in fine, all is carried off.’

And this will seem to be the actual situation with plants; and it directly contradicts what he claims, saying, ‘That each type of grain absorbs the specific matter that is necessary for its own nourishment. First, wheat takes in those particles that are suitable for its structure, while the rest remain quiet and undisturbed. When the earth has released all of those, the particles suitable for barley, which is a different grain, are still left behind until the subsequent crops of that grain take them out too; and then oats and peas in their turn, until eventually, everything is taken away.’

In the former Paragraph he says, each Plant lets pass through it the rest of the Particles that are not suitable to its own Nature. In the latter Paragraph he says, That each leaves the unsuitable all behind for another Sort; and so on.

In the previous paragraph, he states that each plant allows through it the other particles that don't match its own nature. In the next paragraph, he mentions that each leaves the unsuitable all behind for a different kind; and so forth.

Both cannot be true.

Both can't be true.

If the latter were true, Change of Sorts would be as necessary as it is commonly thought. But if the former be true, as I hope to prove it is, then there can be no Use of changing of Sorts in Respect of different Nourishment.

If that's the case, Change of Sorts would be as necessary as people usually believe. But if the other is true, which I hope to prove it is, then there's no need to change Sorts regarding different Nourishment.

If in this Series of Crops each Sort were so just as to take only such Particles, as are peculiarly proper to it, letting all the rest alone to the other Sorts to which they belonged, as the Doctor imagines; then it would be equal to them all, which of the Sorts were sown first or last: But let the Wheat be sown after the Barley, Pease, and Oats, instead of being sown before them, and then it would evidently appear, by that starv’d Crop of Wheat, either that some or all of those other Grains had violated this natural Probity, or else that Nature[218] has given to Vegetables no such Law of Meum and Tuum[207].

If in this series of crops each type only took the particles that were specifically suited to it, leaving the rest for the other types to which they belonged, as the Doctor thinks; then it wouldn't matter which type was planted first or last. But if the wheat were sown after the barley, peas, and oats instead of before them, it would clearly show, by the withered crop of wheat, that either some or all of those other grains had disregarded this natural fairness, or that nature has not given plants any law regarding ownership.

[207]A Charlock could not rob a Turnep, and starve it, more than several Turneps can do, unless the Charlock did take from it the same Particles which would nourish a Turnep; and unless the Charlock did devour a greater Quantity of that Nourishment than several Turneps could take.

[207]A A charlock can't take away from a turnip and leave it to wither any more than several turnips can, unless the charlock takes the same nutrients that would support a turnip; and unless the charlock consumes more of that nutrition than several turnips could.

Flax, Oats, and Poppy, could not burn or waste the Soil, and make it less able to produce succeeding Crops of different Species, unless they did exhaust the same Particles which would have nourish’d Plants of different Species: For let the Quantity of Particles these Burners take be never so great, the following Crops would not miss them, or suffer any Damage by the Want or Loss of them, were they not the same Particles which would have nourished those Crops, if the Burners had left them behind, quiet and undisturbed. Neither could Weeds be of any Prejudice to Corn, if they did draw off those Particles only that suit the Bodies of Weeds, the rest lying all quiet and undisturbed the while. But constant Experience shews, that all Sorts of Weeds, more or less, diminish the Crop of Corn.

Flax, oats, and poppy can't damage the soil or make it less capable of producing future crops of different types unless they deplete the same nutrients that would nourish those other plants. Because even if these plants absorb a large quantity of nutrients, the next crops wouldn't be affected by their absence unless they were the exact nutrients needed for those crops, had the plants left them behind, quiet and undisturbed. Likewise, weeds wouldn't harm corn if they only took the nutrients that suit weeds, while the rest remained all quiet and undisturbed. However, constant experience shows that all kinds of weeds, to some extent, reduce the corn yield.

If these Things were, as the Doctor affirms, why do Farmers lose a Year’s Rent, and be at the Charge of fallowing and manuring their Land, after so few Crops; since there are many more Sorts of Grain as different from these and one another, as those are which they usually sow?

If these things are true, as the Doctor claims, why do farmers lose a year’s rent and have to spend money on fallowing and fertilizing their land after only a few harvests? There are many other types of grain that are just as different from each other as those they typically plant.

They still find, that the first Crops are best; and the longer they continue sowing, the worst the last Crops will prove, be they of never so different a Species; unless the Land were not in so good Tilth for the first Crop as for the subsequent; or unless the last sown be of a more robust Species.

They still find that the first crops are the best, and the longer they keep sowing, the worse the last crops will be, no matter how different the types are, unless the land wasn't as well-prepared for the first crop as it is for the later ones, or unless the last ones sown are of a stronger type.

This Matter might be easily clear’d, could we perfectly know the Nature of those supposed unsuitable[208] Particles; but, in Truth, there is no more to[219] be known of such of them, than that they are carried away by the Atmosphere to a Distance, according to the Velocity of the Air; perhaps several Miles off, at least, never like to return to the Spot of Ground from whence the Plants have raised them.

This issue could be easily resolved if we fully understood the nature of those supposed unsuitable[208] Particles; but, in reality, we can’t know much about them other than the fact that they are carried away by the atmosphere over a distance, depending on the speed of the air—possibly several miles away, and they are unlikely to return to the original spot where the plants sourced them.

[208]But we must not conclude, that these Particles, which pass through a Plant (being a vastly greater Quantity than those that abide in it for its Augment), are all unsuitable, because no one of them happens to hit upon a fit Nidus: For since the Life of Animals depends upon that of Plants, ’tis not unreasonable to imagine, that Nature may have provided a considerable Overplus for maintaining the Life of individual Plants, when she has provided such an innumerable Overplus for continuing every Species of Animals.

[208]But we shouldn't jump to the conclusion that the particles passing through a plant (which are significantly more than those that stay in it for its growth) are all unsuitable just because none happen to find a suitable place to settle. Since the life of animals relies on that of plants, it's not unreasonable to think that nature might have provided a substantial excess to support the life of individual plants, just as it has provided an immense surplus for sustaining every species of animals.

But suppose these cast-off Particles were, when taken in, unfit for the Nourishment of any manner of Vegetables: Then the Doctor must fansy the Wheat to be of a very scrupulous Conscience, to feed on these Particles, which were neither fit for its own Nourishment, nor of any other Plant; and at the same time to forbear to take the Food of Barley, Pease, and Oats, letting that lie still and undisturb’d the while, as he says it does, tho’ he gives no manner of Reason for it.

But let's say these discarded particles were, when taken in, not suitable for feeding any kind of plants. Then the doctor must imagine that wheat has a very strict conscience to feed on these particles, which are not good for its own nutrition or for any other plant. At the same time, it refuses to take the food from barley, peas, and oats, allowing that to sit still and undisturbed all the while, as he claims it does, even though he gives no reason for it.

’Tis needless to bring stronger Arguments, than the Doctor’s Experiments afford, against his own vulgar Opinion, of Plants distinguishing the particular Sort of terrestrial Matter, that, he says, is proper to each Sort of Vegetable, in these Words; viz. ‘Each Sort takes forth that peculiar Matter that is proper for its own Nourishment, the rest lying all quiet and undisturb’d the while.’

It’s unnecessary to present stronger arguments than the doctor’s experiments provide against his common belief that plants can identify the specific type of soil that he claims is suitable for each type of vegetable. He states: ‘Each type extracts the specific matter that is suited for its own nourishment, while the rest remains undisturbed and quiet.’

He says, that great Part of the terrestrial Matter, mixed with the Water, passes up into the Plant along with it; which it could not do, if only the peculiar Matter, proper to each Plant, did pass up into it: And after he has shewed how apt the vegetable Matter is to attend Water in all its Motions, and to follow it into each of its Recesses; being by no Filtrations or Percolations wholly separable from it; ’tis strange he should think that each Plant leaves the greatest Part of it behind, separated from the Water which the Plant imbibes.

He says that a large part of the earthly matter, mixed with water, moves into the plant along with it; it couldn't do this if only the specific matter unique to each plant was moving in. After demonstrating how responsive the plant matter is to water in all its movements and how it follows it into every nook, being completely inseparable from it through any filtration or percolation, it's surprising he thinks that each plant leaves most of it behind, separate from the water the plant takes in.

[220]

[220]

There are, doubtless, more than a Million of Sorts of Plants, all of which would have taken up the Water, and had each as much Right to its Share, or proper Matter in it, as the Doctor’s Plants had; and then there would be but a very small (or a Millionth) Part of it proper to each of his Plants: And these leaving all the rest behind, both of the Water wherewith the Glasses at first were filled, when the Plants were put into them; and also of all the additional Water daily supply’d into them afterwards; I say, so much more terrestrial Matter brought into these Glasses, in Proportion to the added Water, and so very small a Part as could be proper to each of his plants being carried off; there must have remain’d in these Glasses a much greater Quantity of terrestrial Matter at the End of the Experiment, than remained in the Glasses F or G, which had no Plants in them, nor any Water added to, or diminished from them; but the quite contrary appear’d. ‘And the Water in the Glasses F and G, at the End of the Experiment, exhibited a larger Quantity of terrestrial Matter, than any of those that had Plants in them did. The Sediment at the Bottom of the Glasses was greater, and the Nubeculæ diffused thro’ the Body of the Water thicker.’ Had the Cataputia insum’d, with the Two thousand Five hundred and One Grains of Water, no more than its proper Share of the vegetable Matter, it could not have attained thence an Increase of Three Grains and a Quarter, nor even the Thousandth Part of One Grain. But he found ‘this terrestrial Matter, contained in all Water, to be of Two Kinds: The one properly, a vegetable Matter, but consisting of very different Particles; some of which are proper for the Nourishment of some kind of Plants, others for different Sorts,’ &c.

There are definitely more than a million types of plants, each of which would have absorbed water and had just as much right to its share—or proper matter—as the doctor’s plants did. This means that each of his plants would get only a tiny (or one-millionth) part of it. And these plants, leaving all the rest behind, both of the water that initially filled the glasses when the plants were placed in them and also all the extra water added daily afterward, would have brought in so much more terrestrial matter relative to the added water. With such a small amount of proper matter for each plant being taken away, there would have to be a lot more terrestrial matter left in these glasses at the end of the experiment than what was left in glasses F or G, which had no plants in them and no additional or reduced water. However, the complete opposite was observed. At the end of the experiment, the water in glasses F and G showed a higher quantity of terrestrial matter than any of the glasses with plants. The sediment at the bottom of those glasses was greater, and the Nubeculæ suspended throughout the water were thicker. If the Cataputia had taken up no more than its proper share of the vegetable matter with the two thousand five hundred and one grains of water, it couldn’t have gained a total of three and a quarter grains or even a thousandth of a grain. But he discovered that the terrestrial matter contained in all water is of two kinds: one is vegetable matter made up of very different particles, some of which are suitable for nourishing certain types of plants, while others are meant for different kinds, & c.

This, indeed, would have been a most wonderful Discovery, and might have given us a great Light, if he had told us in what Language and Character[221] these proper Differences were stamp’d or written upon the vegetable Particles; which Particles themselves, he says, were scarce visible. Certainly it must be a great Art (much beyond that of Dr. Wallis) to decypher the Language of Plants, from invisible Characters.

This would have been an amazing discovery and could have provided us with great insight if he had explained in what language and style[221] these specific differences were marked or written on the plant particles; which he mentions were barely visible. It must surely be an incredible skill (far beyond that of Dr. Wallis) to decipher the language of plants from invisible signs.

But that this Dream may deceive none, except such who are very fond of old Errors, there is an Experimentum Crucis which may convince them; viz. At the proper Season, tap a Birch-tree in the Body or Boughs, and you may have thence a large Quantity of clear Liquor, very little altered from Water; and you may see, that every other Species of Plants, that will grow in Water, will receive this; live and grow in it, as well as in common Water. You may make a like Experiment by tapping other Trees, or by Water distilled from Vegetables; and you will find no Species of Plants, into which this Water will not enter, and pass through it, and nourish it too; unless it be such a Species as requires more Heat than Water admits; or unless the peculiar Vessels of that it has first passed through, have so altered the vegetable Particles contained in that Water, as that it acts as Poison upon some other particular Species.

But to ensure that this Dream doesn't fool anyone except those who are really attached to old misconceptions, there's a crucial experiment that can prove them wrong: During the right season, tap a birch tree in its trunk or branches, and you’ll get a good amount of clear liquid that's almost identical to water. You’ll see that every type of plant that thrives in water can take this liquid in, living and growing just as well as in regular water. You can do the same experiment by tapping other trees or using water distilled from plants, and you'll discover that no plant species is unable to absorb this water, pass through it, and be nourished by it—except for those that need more heat than water can provide, or unless the specific vessels it first flowed through changed the plant particles in such a way that they become toxic to some other species.

The Doctor concludes, ‘That Water is only the Agent that conveys the Vegetable Matter to the Bodies of Plants, that introduces and distributes it to their several Parts for their Nourishment: That Matter is sluggish and inactive, and would lie eternally confin’d to its Beds of Earth, without ever advancing up into Plants, did not Water, or some like Instrument, fetch it forth, and carry it unto them.’

The Doctor concludes, ‘Water is just the means that carries the plant material to the bodies of plants, introducing and distributing it to their various parts for nourishment. That material is slow and inactive, and it would remain stuck in the soil forever without water or some similar force to bring it up and deliver it to them.’

That Water is very capable of the Office of a Carrier to Plants, I think the Doctor has made most evident; but as to the Office of such an Agent as his Hypothesis bestows upon it, it seems impossible to be executed by Water. For it cannot be imagined,[222] that Water, being itself but mere homogenial Matter, void of all Degrees of Life, should distinguish each Particle of vegetable Matter, proper and peculiar to every different Species of Plants, which are innumerable; and when ’tis to act for the Wheat, to find out all the Particles proper to that sort of Grain, to rouse only those particular Sluggards from their Beds of Earth, letting all the rest lie quiet and undisturbed the while. This Agent frees the Wheat-Particles from their Confinement, and conveys, introduces, and distributes them, and only them, into the several Parts of the Wheat.

That water is very effective at transporting nutrients to plants, as the doctor has clearly shown; however, the role that his hypothesis assigns to it seems impossible for water to fulfill. It’s hard to believe that water, being just a uniform substance lacking any level of life, could identify every particle of plant matter that is specific to each unique species of plant, which are countless. When it needs to assist wheat, it supposedly has to identify all the particles specific to that grain, waking up only those specific dormant particles from their beds in the soil while leaving all the others undisturbed. This agent releases the wheat particles from their confinement, carrying, introducing, and distributing them exclusively into different parts of the wheat.

Since ’tis unreasonable to believe, that Water can have such extraordinary Skill in Botany, or in Micrography, as to be qualified for a sufficient Agent in such an abstruse Matter, I conceive Water to be only an Instrument or Vehicle, which takes up indifferently any Particles it meets with (and is able to carry), and advances them (or the Pabulum they yield) up into the First Plant, whose Root it comes in Contact with; and that every Plant it meets with does accept thereof, without distinguishing any different Sorts or Properties in them, until they be so far introduc’d and advanc’d up into the vegetable Vessels, that it would be in vain to distinguish them; for whether the terrestrial Matter, Plants imbibe with the Water, will kill or nourish them, appears by its Effects; but which cannot be foreknown or prevented without the Help of Faculties, which Plants are not endow’d with.

Since it's unreasonable to think that water can have such exceptional skill in botany or microscopy to be an adequate agent in such a complex matter, I believe water is merely a medium or vehicle that picks up any particles it encounters (and can carry) and brings them (or the nutrients they provide) into the first plant it touches at its roots. Each plant it encounters accepts these particles without distinguishing their different types or properties until they are fully taken in and moved into the plant's vascular system, making it pointless to differentiate them. Whether the earthly matter that plants absorb with the water will harm or nourish them is evident in its effects, but this can't be known or prevented without abilities that plants lack.

Mr. Bradley seems to have carried this Error farther than any Author ever did before; but he supports it by Affirmations only, or by such Arguments (I cannot say Reasons; for no Reason can be against any Truth) as go near to confute the very Opinion he pretends to advance by them.

Mr. Bradley appears to have taken this error further than any author ever has before; however, he backs it up with just assertions or arguments (I can’t call them reasons; no reason can be against any truth) that almost contradict the very opinion he claims to support with them.

He ascribes to Vegetables the Sense of Taste, by which he thinks they take such Nourishment as is[223] most agreeable to their respective Natures, refuting the rest; and will rather starve, than eat what is disagreeable to their Palate.

He attributes a sense of taste to vegetables, believing that they absorb the nutrients that are most suitable for their nature while rejecting the rest. They would rather starve than consume something that doesn't agree with their palate.[223]

In the Preface to his Vol. I. Page 10. of his Husbandry and Gardening, he says, ‘They feed as differently as Horses do from Dogs, or Dogs from Fish.’

In the Preface to his Vol. I. Page 10. of his Husbandry and Gardening, he says, ‘They feed as differently as horses do from dogs, or dogs from fish.’

But what does he mean by this Instance, Vol. I. p. 39. viz. ‘That Thyme, and other Aromatics, being planted near an Apricot-tree, would destroy that Tree?’ Does it not help to confirm, that every Plant does not draw exactly the same Share of Nourishment?

But what does he mean by this example, Vol. I. p. 39. viz. ‘That thyme and other aromatics, when planted near an apricot tree, would damage that tree?’ Doesn't this support the idea that each plant doesn't absorb exactly the same amount of nutrients?

I believe there is no need for him to give more Instances to disprove his Assertion than this one. His Conclusion, taken by itself, is so far right; viz. ‘That if the Nourishment the Earth afforded to the Thyme and Apricot-tree, had been divided into Two Shares, both could not have had them.’

I think he doesn’t need to provide more examples to disprove his statement than this one. His conclusion, considered on its own, is mostly correct; namely ‘That if the nourishment the Earth provided for the thyme and apricot tree had been split into two portions, both couldn’t have received it.’

But this his Instance proves, That those Aromatics robb’d the Apricot-tree of so much of its Share as to starve it; and that they, tho’ of so very different a Nature, did draw from the Earth the same Nourishment which the Apricot-tree should have taken for its Support, had not the Aromatics been too hard for it, in drawing it off for their own Maintenance:

But this example shows that those aromatics took so much from the apricot tree's share that it was starved; and that they, despite being so different in nature, drew the same nutrients from the soil that the apricot tree needed for its sustenance, except the aromatics were too strong for it, taking what it needed for their own survival.

Unless he believes, that all the Juices of the Aromatics were as Poison to the Apricot; and that, according to my Experiment of the Mint, some of their Roots might discharge some kind of Moisture in dry Weather, given them by others, that had it for their Use; and that the Apricot-roots, mingling with them, might imbibe enough of that Liquor, altered sufficiently by their Vessels, to poison and kill the Tree.

Unless he thinks that all the juices from the aromatics are poisonous to the apricot, and that, based on my experiment with mint, some of their roots might release a kind of moisture in dry weather that was supplied by others who used it; and that the apricot roots, mixing with them, might absorb enough of that liquid, altered enough by their vessels, to poison and kill the tree.

But then, where was the Tree’s distinguishing Palate? Why did it not refuse this Juice, which was so disagreeable as to kill it? And as to his Notion of[224] Vegetables having Palates, let us see how it agrees with what he affirms.

But then, where was the Tree's unique taste? Why didn't it reject this juice, which was so unpleasant that it could kill it? And as for his idea that plants have taste, let's see how it lines up with what he claims.

‘That ’tis the Vessels of Plants that make, by their Filtrations, Percolations, &c. all the different Tastes and Flavours of the Matter, which is the Aliment of Plants; and that, before it be by them so filtred, &c. it is only a Fund of insipid Substance, capable of being altered by such Vessels, into any Form, Colour, or Flavour.’

‘It's the vessels of plants that, through their filtering, percolating, etc., create all the different tastes and flavors of the substances that nourish plants. Before these substances are filtered, etc., they are just a mix of bland material, which can be transformed by these vessels into any form, color, or flavor.’

And Vol. I. p. 38. ‘The different Strainers, or Vessels of the several Plants, growing upon that Spot of Earth, thus impregnated with Salts, alter those Salts or Juices, according to the several Figures or Dimensions of their Strainers; so that one Plant varies, in Taste and Smell, from others, tho’ all draw their Nourishment from the same Stock lodged in the Earth.’ See Mr. Bradley’s Palates of Plants, and the insipid Substance he allots them to distinguish the Taste of, how they agree.

And Vol. I. p. 38. ‘The different strainers or vessels of various plants growing in that patch of soil, which is enriched with salts, change those salts or juices based on the different shapes or sizes of their strainers. As a result, one plant can taste and smell different from another, even though they all get their nutrients from the same source in the ground.’ See Mr. Bradley’s Palates of Plants, and the bland substance he associates with them for distinguishing taste, and how they compare.

They must, it seems, within their own Bodies, give the Flavour to this insipid Substance, before their Palates can be of any Use; and, even then, ’tis impossible to be of any Use, but in the manner of the Dog returning to his Vomit.

They apparently have to, within their own bodies, add flavor to this bland substance before their taste buds can be of any use; and even then, it’s impossible to be of any use, except like a dog returning to its vomit.

They would have as much Occasion for the Sense of Smelling, as of Taste; but, after all, of what Use could either of the Two be to Plants, without local Motion of their Roots? which they are so destitute of, that no Mouth of a Root can ever remove itself from the very Point where it was first formed, because a Root has all its longitudinal Increase at the very End; for, should the Spaces betwixt the Branchings increase in Length, those Branches would be broken off, and left behind, or else drawn out of their Cavities; which must destroy the Plant. All the Branches, except the foremost, would be found with their Extremities pointing towards the Stem; the contrary of[225] which Posture they are seen to have: And if they moved backwards, that would have much the same Effect on all the collateral Branchings to destroy them. Smell and Taste then could be of no manner of Use to Vegetables, if they had them; they would have no Remedy or Possibility to mend themselves from the same Mouths, removing to search out other Food, in case they had Power to dislike or refuse what was offered them.

They would need the sense of smell just as much as taste; but, ultimately, what would either of those senses do for plants without the ability to move their roots? Roots are completely incapable of moving away from the spot where they were first formed because they only grow in length at the very tip. If the spaces between the branches increased in length, those branches would either break off or get pulled out of their cavities, which would kill the plant. All the branches, except for the very tip, would end up pointing towards the stem, the opposite of what we actually see. And if they were able to move backwards, that would have a similarly destructive effect on all the side branches. So, smell and taste wouldn’t be useful to plants at all. They wouldn’t have any way to fix themselves or the ability to seek out other food if they could dislike or refuse what was offered to them.

Therefore the crude Earth, being their Food, simple and free from any Alterations by Vessels, remaining insipid, cannot give, neither can Plants receive, require, or make use of, any Variety from it, as Animals do from their Diet. It would be lost upon them, and Nature would have acted in vain, to give Smell and Taste to Vegetables, and nothing but insipid Earth for an Object of them; or to give them a charming Variety of Relish and Savour in their Food, without giving them Senses necessary to perceive or enjoy them; which would be like Light and Colours to the Blind, Sound and Music to the Deaf, or like giving Eyes and Ears to Animals, without Light or Sound to affect them.

Therefore, the raw Earth, being their food, simple and free from any changes by vessels, remaining bland, cannot provide, nor can plants use, require, or benefit from any variety as animals do from their diets. It would be pointless for them, and Nature would have acted in vain, to give smell and taste to vegetables, yet nothing but bland Earth for them to engage with; or to give them a delightful variety of flavors in their food without providing them with the senses needed to perceive or enjoy them; which would be like giving light and colors to the blind, sound and music to the deaf, or giving eyes and ears to animals without light or sound to affect them.

The Mouths of Plants, situate in the convex Superficies of Roots, are analogous to the Lacteals, or Mouths, in the concave Superficies of the Intestines of Animals.

The mouths of plants, located on the outward surface of roots, are similar to the lacteals, or mouths, found on the inward surface of animal intestines.

These spongy Superficies of animal Guts, and vegetable Roots, have no more Taste or Power of refusing whatever comes in Contact with them, the one than the other.

These spongy surfaces of animal guts and plant roots have no more taste or ability to reject whatever comes into contact with them, whether one or the other.

The free open Air would be equally injurious to both; and if exposed to it, it would dry and close up the fine Orifices in Guts and Roots: Therefore Nature has guarded both from it.

The free open air would be equally harmful to both, and if they were exposed to it, it would dry up and close the delicate openings in their guts and roots. Therefore, nature has protected both from it.

Nature has also provided for the Preservation of both Vegetables and Animals (I do not say equally)[226] in respect of their Food; which might poison them, or might not be fit to nourish them.

Nature has also ensured the preservation of both plants and animals (I won't say it's equal)[226] in terms of their food, which could either poison them or may not be suitable for nourishment.

The Security of Plants (the best that can be) is their Food itself, Earth; which, having been altered by no Vessels, is always safe and nourishing to them; For a Plant is never known to be poisoned by its own natural Soil, nor starved, if it were enough of it, with the requisite Quantities of Heat and Moisture.

The security of plants (the best it can be) is their food itself, the earth; which, having not been changed by any containers, is always safe and nourishing for them. A plant is never known to be poisoned by its own natural soil, nor is it starved if there’s enough of it, along with the right amounts of heat and moisture.

Roots, being therefore the Guts of Plants, have no need to be guarded by Senses; and all the Parts and Passages, which serve to distinguish and prepare the Food of Animals, before it reach the Guts, are omitted in Plants, and not at all necessary to them.

Roots, which are essentially the guts of plants, don’t need protection from the senses. All the parts and systems that help animals identify and process their food before it goes into their guts are absent in plants, as these functions aren’t necessary for them at all.

But as the Food of most Animals is Earth, very variously changed and modified by vegetable or animal Vessels, or by both, and some of it is made wholsome, some poisonous; so that if this doubtful Food should be committed to the Intestines, without Examination, as the pure unaltered Earth is to Roots, there would, in all Probability, be very few Animals living in the World, except there be any that feed on Earth at first Hand only, as Plants do.

But since most animals' food comes from the earth, which is changed and modified in many ways by plants or animals, or both, some of it can be healthy while some can be toxic. If this questionable food were taken in by the intestines without any examination, just like how unaltered earth is to roots, it’s likely that very few animals would survive in the world, except for those that directly consume earth, like plants do.

Therefore, lest this Food, so much more refined than that of Plants, should, by that very means, become a fatal Curse, instead of a Blessing to Animals, Nature has endowed them with Smell and Taste, as Sentinels, without whose Scrutiny these various uncertain Ingredients are not admitted to come where they can enter the Lacteals, and to distinguish, at a sufficient Distance, what is wholsome and friendly, from what is hurtful; for when ’tis once passed out of the Stomach into the Guts, ’tis too late to have Benefit from Emetics; its Venom must then be imbibed by the Lacteal Mouths, and mix with the Blood, as that must mix with the Sap, which comes in Contact with the Lacteals in the Superficies of Roots, Nature having left this unguarded.

Therefore, so that this food, which is much more refined than plant-based options, doesn't become a harmful curse instead of a blessing for animals, nature has given them smell and taste as sentinels. Without their scrutiny, these various uncertain ingredients aren't allowed to enter where they can reach the lacteals. They need to be able to identify, from a sufficient distance, what is healthy and beneficial versus what is harmful. Once food has passed from the stomach into the intestines, it's too late to take emetics; its toxins will then be absorbed by the lacteal mouths and mix with the blood, similar to how it must mix with the sap that comes into contact with the lacteals at the root surfaces, leaving this unprotected by nature.

[227]

[227]

Yet Plants seem to be better secured by the Salubrity and Simplicity of their Food, than Animals are by their Senses: To compensate that Inequality of Danger; Animals have Pleasure from their Senses, except some miserable Animals (and such there are) that have more Pain than Pleasure from them. But I suppose, more Animals than Plants are poison’d; and that a poisonous Animal is less fatal to a Plant, than a poisonous Plant is to an Animal.

Yet plants seem to be better protected by the healthiness and simplicity of their food than animals are by their senses. To make up for this difference in danger, animals derive pleasure from their senses, except for some unfortunate animals that experience more pain than pleasure from them. However, I believe that more animals than plants fall victim to poison, and a poisonous animal is less harmful to a plant than a poisonous plant is to an animal.

It being sufficiently proved, that every sort of Vegetables, growing in the same Soil, takes, and is nourished, by the same Sort of Food; it follows from hence, that the beneficial Change of Sorts of Seeds or Plants, we see in the common Husbandry, is not from the Quality of the Sorts of Food, but from other Causes; such as,

It has been clearly shown that every type of vegetable growing in the same soil draws from and is nourished by the same type of nutrients. Therefore, the successful switching of seed or plant varieties that we observe in regular farming isn't due to the quality of the nutrients but rather other factors, such as,

I. Quantity of the Food.
II. Constitution of the Plants.
III. Quantity of the Tillage.

In Dr. Woodward’s Case, upon his Hypothesis, the Three Proportions of Seeds, viz. Barley, Oats, and Pease, might be sown all together in the same Acre of Ground, the same Year, and make Three as good Crops as if sown singly in Three successive Years, and his Two Crops of Wheat in one Year likewise. But every Farmer can tell, that these Three Proportions of Seed would not yield half the Crop together, as one would do single; and would scarce produce more than to shew what Grains were sown, and which, of the Sorts were the strongest and the most able Robber.

In Dr. Woodward's case, based on his theory, the three types of seeds—barley, oats, and peas—could all be planted together in the same acre of land, in the same year, and produce three good crops as if they were sown separately over three consecutive years, along with his two crops of wheat in one year as well. However, any farmer knows that these three types of seeds would yield less than half the harvest together compared to what one type would produce on its own; they would hardly show more than which grains were sown and which ones grew the strongest and were the best at competing for resources.

Though this Failure would, in Truth, be from no other Cause than want of the sufficient Quantity of Food, which those Three Crops required; yet, perhaps, the Doctor might think, that all Three Crops might succeed together very well, taking each its proper Nourishment, were it not for want of Room, Air, and Sun.

Though this failure would really be due to not having enough food for the three crops, the doctor might believe that all three could thrive together successfully, getting the nutrients they need, if it weren't for a lack of space, air, and sunlight.

[228]

[228]

I have been credibly inform’d, that on One Perch of Ground there has grown a Bushel of Corn, which is Twenty Quarters to an Acre. Mr. Houghton relates Twenty-six, and even Thirty Quarters, of Wheat on One Acre. There have certainly grown Twelve Quarters of Barley to an Acre, throughout a whole Field: Therefore, unless a Crop exceed the least of these, or indeed the greatest of them (if the Relation be true), a Crop cannot fail for want of Room; for one Acre (be it of what Nature it will, as to the Soil of it) must have as much room for a Crop to grow on, as any other Acre.

I’ve been reliably informed that on one perch of land, a bushel of corn has grown, which is twenty quarters per acre. Mr. Houghton mentions even twenty-six or thirty quarters of wheat from one acre. Twelve quarters of barley have certainly grown per acre across an entire field. So, unless a crop exceeds the least or even the greatest of these amounts (if the information is accurate), a crop can't fail due to lack of space; one acre, regardless of its soil type, should have enough room for a crop to grow just like any other acre.

Then there was room for all Dr. Woodward’s Three Crops together, to produce as much as Three common Crops do. Yet all these together will scarce yield one Quarter of Corn, tho’ there is room, at least, for Twelve.

Then there was enough space for all of Dr. Woodward’s Three Crops combined to generate as much as Three regular Crops do. However, even all these together will hardly produce one Quarter of Corn, even though there's space for at least Twelve.

The same Air and Sun that had Room to do their Office to Mr. Houghton’s Acre, why should they not have Room to do the same to Doctor Woodward’s Acre, when the Three Crops growing on it at once, through pretty good ones, might require less Room than Mr. Houghton’s Crop did?

The same Air and Sun that had space to benefit Mr. Houghton’s land, why shouldn’t they have space to do the same for Doctor Woodward’s land, especially when the three crops growing on it at once, which are pretty good, might need less space than Mr. Houghton’s crop did?

I perceive that those Authors, who explain Vegetation, by saying the Earth imbibes certain Qualities from the Air, and by specific Qualities, and the like, do also lay a great Stress upon the perpendicular Growth of Vegetables; seeming to fansy there is little else necessary to a good Crop, but Room.

I see that those authors who explain Vegetation by saying the Earth absorbs certain qualities from the Air, along with specific qualities and similar factors, also put a lot of emphasis on the vertical growth of plants; they seem to think that the only thing needed for a good harvest is space.

Mr. Bradley, in his Arguments concerning the Value of an Hill, does implicitly say as much.

Mr. Bradley, in his arguments about the value of a hill, implicitly suggests the same.

But if they would but consider the Diameters of the Stems, with the Measure of the Surface of an Acre, they would be convinced, that many, even of Mr. Houghton’s Crops, might stand in a perpendicular Posture upon an Acre, and Room be left.

But if they would just think about the thickness of the stems in relation to the size of an acre, they would realize that many of Mr. Houghton’s crops could fit upright on an acre, with space to spare.

One true Cause of a Crop’s failing, is want of a Quantity of Food to maintain the Quantity of Vegetables, which the Food should nourish.

One real reason for a crop's failure is the lack of enough food to sustain the number of plants that the food should nourish.

[229]

[229]

When the Quantity of Food which is sufficient for another Species (that requires less), but not for that which last grew, to grow again the next Year, then that other is beneficial to be planted after it.

When the amount of food that's enough for one species (that needs less) but not enough for the one that just grew to thrive again the next year, then it's good to plant that other species after it.

The Second true Cause is from the Constitution of Plants; some require more Food than others, and some are of a stronger Make, and better able to penetrate the Earth, and forage for themselves.

The second true reason comes from the nature of plants; some need more nutrients than others, and some are stronger and better equipped to dig into the ground and find food for themselves.

Therefore Oats may succeed a Crop of Wheat on strong Land, with once plowing, when Barley will not; because Barley is not so well able to penetrate as Oats, or Beans, or Pease, are.

Therefore, oats can follow a crop of wheat on strong soil with just one plowing, while barley cannot; this is because barley is not as capable of penetrating the soil as oats, beans, or peas are.

So a Pear-tree may succeed a Plum-tree, when another Plum-tree cannot; because a Pear is a much stronger Tree, and grows to a much greater Bulk; so inclined to be a Giant, that ’tis hard to make it a Dwarf; and will penetrate and force its Way thro’ the untill’d Earth, where the other cannot; being of a weaker and less robust Constitution, not so well able to shift for itself.

So a pear tree can take the place of a plum tree when another plum tree can't; because a pear tree is much stronger and grows much larger. It's so inclined to be a giant that it's hard to make it a dwarf, and it can push its way through the untilled soil, while the plum tree cannot, as it has a weaker and less sturdy constitution and isn't as capable of fending for itself.

The Pear could penetrate Pores, that the other could not. Mr. Evelyn says, in his Discourse of Forest-trees, ‘That a Pear will strike Root thro’ the roughest and most impenetrable Rocks and Clifts of Stone itself.’ He says likewise, in his Pomona, ‘That Pears will thrive where neither Apple or other Fruit could in Appearance be expected.’

The pear can get through spots that others can't. Mr. Evelyn notes in his essay on forest trees, 'A pear can take root through the roughest and most impenetrable rocks and cliffs of stone itself.' He also mentions in his Pomona, 'Pears will flourish in places where it doesn't seem possible for apples or other fruits to grow.'

I can scarce think, that a large Plant takes in larger Particles than a small one, for its Nourishment: If it did, I can’t believe, that the Thyme could have starv’d the Apricot-tree; it must have left the larger Particles of Food for that Tree, which probably would have sufficed to keep it alive: I rather think, that great and small Plants are sustain’d by the same minute Particles; for, as the fine Particles of Oats will nourish an Ox, so they will nourish a Tom-tit, or a Mite.

I can hardly believe that a large plant takes in bigger particles than a small one for its nourishment. If that were true, I can't imagine that thyme could have starved the apricot tree; it must have left the bigger food particles for that tree, which probably would have been enough to keep it alive. I think that both large and small plants are sustained by the same tiny particles; just as fine oat particles can nourish an ox, they can also nourish a small bird or a mite.

[230]

[230]

Some Plants are of an hotter Constitution, and have a quicker Digestion, like Cormorants or Pigeons, devouring more greedily, and a greater Quantity of Food, than those of a colder Temperature, of equal Bulk, whose Sap, having a more languid Motion, in proportion to the less Degree of Heat in it, sends off fewer Recrements; and therefore a less Supply of Food is required in their room. This may make some Difference in the one’s succeeding the other; because the hot-constitution’d leaves not enough for its own Species to succeed again, but leaves enough for a Species of a colder Constitution to succeed it.

Some plants have a hotter constitution and a quicker digestion, like cormorants or pigeons, consuming food more eagerly and in larger amounts than those with a colder temperature of the same size. The sap in these cooler plants moves more slowly due to the lower heat, resulting in fewer waste products being produced; therefore, they require less food overall. This may create a difference in which species thrive; the hotter plants don’t produce enough for their own kind to succeed again, but they do leave enough for a colder species to take their place.

But the Third and chiefest Cause of the Benefit of changing Sorts is Quantity of Tillage, in proportion to which the Food will be produced.

But the third and main reason for the benefit of changing crops is the amount of cultivation, which determines how much food will be produced.

The true Cause why Wheat is not (especially on any strong Soil) to be sown immediately after Wheat, is, That the first Wheat standing almost a Year on the Ground, by which it must grow harder; and Wheat Seed-time being soon after Harvest in England, there is not Space of Time to till the Land so much as a second Crop of Wheat requires.

The real reason why wheat shouldn't be planted right after wheat, especially on any strong soil, is that the first crop of wheat stays in the ground for almost a year, which makes it tougher. Since wheat planting time comes soon after harvest in England, there isn’t enough time to prepare the land as much as a second crop of wheat needs.

Tho’ sometimes in poorer Land, that is lighter, Wheat has succeeded Wheat with tolerable Success; when I have seen, on very rich strong Land, the first Crop lost by being much too big, and one following it immediately, quite lost by the Poorness of it, and not worth cutting.

Though sometimes in poorer land, which is lighter, wheat has grown fairly well after wheat; I've seen that on very rich, strong land, the first crop fails because it gets too big, and the next one is completely lost due to the poor quality, making it not worth harvesting.

This was enough to satisfy, that the Tillage which was so much easier perform’d in less Time, sufficed for the light Land, but not for the strong: and, if the strong Land could have been brought into as good Tilth as the light (like as in the new Husbandry it may), it would have produced a much better second Crop than the light Land did.

This was enough to show that the farming which was much easier and done in less time worked for the light soil, but not for the heavy. And if the heavy soil could have been prepared as well as the light soil (which is possible with modern techniques), it would have produced a much better second crop than the light soil did.

From all that has been said, these may be laid down as Maxims; viz. That the same Quantity of[231] Tillage will produce the same Quantity of Food in the same Land[209]; and that the same Quantity of Food will maintain the same Quantity of Vegetables.

From everything that's been said, these can be established as maxims: that the same amount of tillage will produce the same amount of food on the same land[231]; and that the same amount of food will sustain the same amount of vegetables.

[209]And cæteris paribus; for when the Land has been more exhausted, more Tillage (or Dung) or Rest will be required to produce the same Quantity of Food, than when the Land hath been less exhausted. By Tillage is here meant, not only the Number of Plowings, but the Degree of Division or Pulveration of the Soil; or, if perchance the Soil is extraordinary much exhausted by many Crops, without proper Tillage between them, the greater Degree of Pulveration, by Plowing or Dung (which is only a Succedaneum of Tillage), and also a longer Time of Exposure, may be necessary to counterpoise that extraordinary Exhaustion.

[209]And cæteris paribus; because when the land is more exhausted, you need more tilling (or manure) or resting time to produce the same amount of food as when the land is less exhausted. By tilling, we mean not just the number of times you plow, but also how finely the soil is broken up. If the soil has been heavily depleted by multiple crops without adequate tilling in between, you may need to break it up more, either by plowing or using manure (which is just a substitute for proper tilling), and also allow it to rest for a longer period to make up for that heavy exhaustion.

’Tis seen, that the same Sort of Weeds, which once come naturally in a Soil, if suffer’d to grow, will always prosper in proportion to the Tillage and Manure bestow’d upon it, without any Change. And so are all manner of Plants, that have been yet try’d by the new Husbandry, seen to do.

It’s clear that the same types of weeds, which originally grow naturally in a soil, will continue to thrive in relation to the farming and fertilizer applied to it, without any change. The same is true for all kinds of plants that have been tested with modern farming methods.

A Vineyard, if not tilled, will soon decay, even in rich Ground, as may be seen in those in France, lying intermingled as our Lands do in common Fields. Those Lands of Vines, which by reason of some Law-suit depending about the Property of them, or otherwise, lie a Year or two untilled, produce no Grapes, send out no Shoots hardly: the Leaves look yellow, and seem dead, in Comparison of those on each Side of them; which, being tilled, are full of Fruit, send out an hundred times more Wood, and their Leaves are large and flourishing; and continue to do the same annually for Ages, if the Plough or Hoe do not neglect them.

A vineyard that isn’t cultivated will quickly fall into disrepair, even in rich soil, as you can see in those in France, lying mixed together like our lands do in common fields. Those vine lands, which due to some ongoing lawsuit about their ownership, or for other reasons, remain untilled for a year or two, produce no grapes and hardly send out any shoots: the leaves look yellow and seem dead compared to those on either side of them; which, when cultivated, are full of fruit, produce a hundred times more wood, and have large, thriving leaves; and they keep doing the same year after year for ages, as long as the plow or hoe doesn’t neglect them.

No Change of Sorts is needful in them, if the same annual Quantity of Tillage (which appears to provide the same annual Quantity of Food) be continued to the Vines.

No change of any kind is necessary for them if the same annual amount of farming (which seems to provide the same annual amount of food) continues for the vines.

But what in the Vineyards proves this Thesis most fully is, That where they constantly till the low Vines[232] with the Plough, which is almost the same with the Hoe-plough, the Stems are planted about Four Feet asunder, chequerwise; so that they plow them Four ways. When any of these Plants happen to die, new ones are immediately planted in their room, and exactly in the Points or Angles where the other have rotted; else, if planted out of those Angles, they would stand in the Way of the Plough: These young Vines, I say, so planted in the very Graves, as it were, of their Predecessors, grow, thrive, and prosper well, the Soil being thus constantly tilled: And if a Plum-tree, or any other Plant, had such Tillage, it might as well succeed one of its own Species, as those Vines do.

But what really proves this thesis in the vineyards is that where they consistently till the low vines[232] with a plow, which is pretty much like a hoe-plow, the stems are planted about four feet apart in a checkerboard pattern, allowing them to be plowed from four different directions. When any of these plants die, new ones are immediately planted in their place and exactly at the spots where the others have rotted; otherwise, if planted outside those spots, they would get in the way of the plow. These young vines, I say, planted right in the graves of their predecessors, grow, thrive, and do well, as the soil is constantly being tilled. And if a plum tree or any other plant received that kind of cultivation, it could succeed just as well as its own species does.

’Tis observed, that White-thorns will not prosper, set in the Gaps of a White thorn Hedge: But I have seen the Banks of such Gaps dug and thrown down one Summer, and made up again, and White-thorns there replanted the following Winter, with good Success.

It’s been noted that Hawthorns won’t thrive when planted in the gaps of a Hawthorn hedge. However, I’ve seen those gaps dug out and cleared one summer, then filled in again, and Hawthorns replanted there the following winter, with great success.

But note, That the annual plowing the Vines is more beneficial than the one Summer Tillage of the Banks, the Vines having it repeated to them yearly.

But note that annually plowing the vines is more beneficial than just one summer tilling of the banks, as the vines experience it year after year.

I have, by Experience and Observation, found it to be a Rule, That long Tap-rooted Plants, as Clover and St. Foin, will not succeed immediately after those of their own or any other Species of long Tap-roots, so well as after horizontal-rooted Plants; but, on the contrary, horizontal will succeed those Tap-roots as well or better than they will succeed horizontal.

I’ve seen from experience and observation that it’s a rule that deep-rooted plants, like clover and sainfoin, don’t do as well right after other plants of their kind or any other deep-rooted species, but they do better after plants with horizontal roots. Conversely, horizontal-rooted plants can thrive as well or even better than deep-rooted ones.

I confess, this Observation did, for a great while, cheat me into the common Belief, That different Species of Plants feed on different Food; till I was delivered from that Error, by taking Notice, that those Tap-roots would thrive exceedingly well after Turneps, which have also pretty long Tap-roots, though Turneps never thrive well immediately after[233] Clover[210], or St. Foin: I found the true Cause of this Exception to that Rule to be chiefly the different Tillage[211].

I admit, this observation led me to believe for a long time that different types of plants thrive on different kinds of nutrients. I was corrected when I noticed that those taproots grow really well after turnips, which also have quite long taproots, even though turnips don’t do well right after clover or alfalfa. I discovered that the main reason for this exception to the rule is mainly the difference in cultivation.

[210]But when Clover has been fed by Cattle, the Ground being good, and well tilled, Turneps may thrive immediately after Clover: Therefore this is an Exception to the general Rule.

[210]But when Clover is fed on by cattle, and the ground is good and well cultivated, turnips can grow right after Clover. So, this is an exception to the general rule.

[211]Very mellow rich Land is so full of vegetable Food, that ’tis an Exception to most Rules; and therefore I speak not of that.

[211]This incredibly fertile land is so packed with plant-based food that it defies most norms; so I won't discuss that.

Land must be well tilled for Turneps, which also are commonly hoed; they stand scarce ever above Three-quarters of a Year, and are then fed on the Ground; and then the succeeding Crop of Corn has, by that means, the Benefit of twice as much Tillage from the Hoe, as otherwise would be given to it; and the Broad Clover, or St. Foin, sown with the Corn (if the Corn be not so big as to kill it), will enjoy, in its Turn, a Proportion of the extraordinary Tillage, and of the Dung of Cattle, which feed the Turneps, and thrive accordingly: But Broad Clover and St. Foin, being perennial Plants, stand on the Ground so long, that it lies several Years untilled; so that Turneps, sown immediately after these, do fail, for want of their due Tillage, for which there is not sufficient time, by plowing often enough; because, by the common Ploughs, it requires Two or Three Years to make it fine enough for Turneps, or for a Repetition of Clover, or St. Foin, in strong or swerdy Land.

Land must be well worked for turnips, which are usually hoed; they rarely last more than three-quarters of a year and are then fed on the ground. This allows the next crop of corn to benefit from twice the tillage from the hoe that it would have otherwise received. The broad clover or sainfoin sown with the corn (as long as the corn isn't too large to damage it) will also benefit from the extra tillage and manure from the livestock that feed on the turnips, and will thrive as a result. However, broad clover and sainfoin are perennial plants and stay in the ground for so long that the land often lies untilled for several years. This means that turnips planted right after these crops fail due to lack of proper tillage, as there isn't enough time for frequent plowing; common plows require two or three years to prepare the soil well enough for turnips or to replant clover or sainfoin in strong or weedy land.

Another Reason why any Crop succeeds well after Turneps (and besides their being spent on the Ground where they grow) is their cold Constitution, by which they are maintained with less Food than another Plant of the same Bulk.

Another reason why any crop thrives after turnips (besides the nutrients they leave in the soil) is their cold nature, which allows them to survive on less food than other plants of the same size.

The Parenchyma, or fleshy Part of a Turnep, consisting of a watry Substance, which cools the Vessels, whereby the Sap’s Motion is very slow, in proportion to the very low Degree of Heat it has, and[234] sends off its Recrements in the same Proportion likewise; and therefore requires the less of the terrene Nourishment to supply those Recrements.

The Parenchyma, or fleshy part of a turnip, is made up of a watery substance that cools the vessels, causing the movement of sap to slow down significantly due to its low temperature. It also releases its waste in a similar manner; consequently, it needs less earthly nourishment to replenish those wastes. [234]

This is seen, when a Bushel of Turneps, mixed with a Quantity of Wheaten Flour, is made into Bread, and well baked: This Bushel of Turneps gives but few Ounces Increase in Weight, more than the same Quantity of Wheaten Flour made into Bread, and baked without any Turneps. This shews there is in a Turnep very little Earth (which is the most permanent Substance of a Plant); the Oven discharges in Vapour near all but the largest Vessels: Its earthly Substance being so small, is a Proof ’tis maintained by a small Quantity of Earth: and, upon that Account also, of less Damage to the next Crop than another Plant would be, which required more of the solid Nourishment to constitute its firmer Body, as a Charlock does; for when a Charlock comes up, contiguous to, and at the same time with a Turnep, it does so rob the Turnep, that it attains not to be of the Weight of Five Ounces; when a single Turnep, having no more Scope of Ground, and, in all respects (but the Vicinity of the Charlock), equal, weighs Five Pounds, yet that Charlock does not weigh One Pound.

This is evident when a bushel of turnips mixed with a quantity of wheat flour is made into bread and baked well. This bushel of turnips adds only a few ounces to the weight compared to the same amount of wheat flour made into bread and baked without any turnips. This shows that a turnip contains very little earth (which is the most permanent substance of a plant); the oven releases nearly all but the largest particles as vapor. Its small earthly substance proves that it relies on a small amount of earth for nourishment and, for that reason, causes less harm to the next crop than another plant that would need more solid nutrition to form its sturdier body, like charlock; for when charlock grows close to and at the same time as a turnip, it robs the turnip of nutrients, preventing it from reaching a weight of five ounces. In contrast, a single turnip, which has no more space to grow and is equal in every respect (except for the presence of the charlock), weighs five pounds, while that charlock doesn't even reach one pound.

And where Three Turneps coming up, and growing thus contiguous, will weigh Four Pounds; a Charlock joined with Two or Three Turneps, all together, will be less than one Pound, upon no less Space of Ground.

And where three turnips grow close together, they will weigh four pounds; a charlock mixed with two or three turnips will weigh less than one pound, on the same amount of land.

This Observation cannot be made, except where Turneps are drilled in Rows; and there ’tis easy to demonstrate, that a Charlock, during the time of its short Life, draws much more Earth than a Turnep of equal Bulk, from an equal Quantity of Ground[212].

This observation can only be made where turnips are planted in rows; and there it’s easy to show that a charlock, during its short life, pulls much more soil than a turnip of the same size from the same amount of land.[212]

[212]’Tis certain that Turneps, when they stand for Seed, suck and impoverish the Ground exceedingly: For though they are of a cold Constitution, and consequently consume less Food than Plants of an hotter Constitution, and of the same Bulk; yet these Seed-turneps being of so vast a Bulk, as sometimes Eighty Quarters of their Roots grow on an Acre, and their Stalks have been measured Seven Feet high, and their Roots having continued at near their full Bigness for about Ten Months together, and then carried off, they drain the Land more than a Crop of other Vegetables of a less Bulk, and an hotter Constitution, and which live a less time; or than Wheat, which, though it lives as long, is very small, except in the Four last Months.

[212]It’s clear that turnips, when they’re grown for seed, heavily drain and deplete the soil. Even though they’re a cooler plant and require less nutrition compared to warmer plants of the same size, these seed turnips can grow to such a massive size—sometimes up to eighty bushels per acre—and their stalks can reach seven feet tall. Their roots can stay close to their full size for about ten months, and when harvested, they strip the land more than a crop of other vegetables that are smaller and have a shorter growing season, or compared to wheat, which, although it grows for the same duration, is quite small, except for the last four months.

[235]

[235]

The true Cause why Clover and St. Foin do not succeed so well after their own respective Species, or that of each other, as Corn, &c. can, is, that they take great Part of their Nourishment from below the Plough’s Reach, so as that under Earth cannot be tilled deep enough, but the upper Part may be tilled deep enough for the horizontal Roots of Corn, &c. towards which, the Rotting of the Clover and St. Foin Roots, when cut off by the Plough, do not a little contribute[213]; And there’s no doubt but that, if[236] the under Earth could be as well tilled for the Tap-roots, as the upper Earth is for the horizontal, the Tap-roots would succeed one another as well as the horizontal would succeed them, or those of their own Species, or as the Tap-roots do the horizontal.

The main reason Clover and St. Foin don't thrive as well as Corn, and each other, is that they draw a lot of their nutrients from below the plow’s reach. This means that the soil beneath can’t be tilled deeply enough, while the top layer can be worked enough for the horizontal roots of Corn, etc. The decomposition of Clover and St. Foin roots, when cut by the plow, also contributes to this. There’s no doubt that if the lower soil could be tilled as well for taproots as the upper soil is for horizontal roots, the taproots would thrive just as well as the horizontal ones do, or as those of their own species, or as the taproots do for the horizontal roots.

[213]That the Rotting of vegetable Roots in the Ground doth ferment therein, and improve it for horizontal-rooted Plants, I am convinced by an Accident; viz. My Man had plowed off the Earth close to the Rows in a Field of extraordinary large Turneps designed for Seed. This Earth was neglected to be thrown back to the Rows, until a severe Frost in the Winter came, and killed the Turneps; upon which, in the Spring, the Field was sown with Barley upon the Level, with only once plowing, and that cross-ways of the Rows. The Turneps had stood so wide asunder, that the Spot whereon each had rotted, appeared like the Spot whereon an Horse had urined in till’d Ground, and was of a deeper Colour, and much higher, than the Barley that grew round those Spots; and yet none of it was poor. As the Roots of Clover, and St. Foin, are very much less; yet the greater Number rotting in plowed Ground must be of great Use to a following Crop of Corn.

[213]I’m convinced that decaying vegetable roots in the soil break down and enrich it for plants with horizontal roots, and I’ve seen this firsthand. My worker had plowed the earth close to the rows in a field of exceptionally large turnips meant for seed. This soil was left unreturned to the rows until a harsh winter frost killed the turnips. In the spring, the field was sown with barley, leveled out and only plowed once, crossing the rows. The turnips had been spaced so far apart that the spots where each had decayed looked like areas where a horse had urinated on tilled soil, with a deeper color and a much higher mound than the barley growing around those spots, yet the barley was not lacking in quality. Even though the roots of clover and alfalfa are much smaller, the larger number of decaying roots in plowed soil must be very beneficial for the next crop of corn.

I will here relate Two Examples of this in St. Foin: The one is, That a Field of Twenty-five Acres drilled with St. Foin, except Three Acres in the Middle of it, which was, at the same time, sown with Hop-Clover; after Eight Years the whole Field was plowed up by a Tenant, and sown with Corn: The St. Foin had been mowed yearly, as the Hop-Clover was not mowed at all, but fed by Horses teddered (or staked) thereon the First and Second Years; and after that had nothing on it but poor natural Grass.

I will share two examples of this with St. Foin: One is a field of twenty-five acres planted with St. Foin, except for three acres in the middle, which were simultaneously sown with Hop-Clover. After eight years, the entire field was plowed by a tenant and sown with corn. The St. Foin had been mowed annually, while the Hop-Clover was never mowed at all but was grazed by tethered horses during the first two years; afterward, it only had some poor natural grass growing on it.

The whole Field was managed alike, when plowed up; but the Three Acres produced visibly worse Crops of Corn than the rest all round it, which had produced St. Foin.

The entire field was treated the same way when it was plowed, but the Three Acres yielded noticeably poorer corn crops compared to the surrounding areas, which had produced St. Foin.

The other Example or Instance was, Where an Acre, Part of a Field, was, by a Fancy, drilled with St. Foin in single Rows, about Thirty-three Inches asunder, but was never hoed: After Seven Years it was plowed up with the rest of the Field cross the Rows, and sown with Oats upon the Back Three Months after plowing. These Rows were as visible in the Oats, as if the St. Foin had been still remaining there: The Oats in the Rows where the St. Foin had been, looked of a deep green flourishing Colour, at first coming up, and until they were about half a Foot high, and the Spaces between them looked yellowish; but afterwards the Difference of their Colour disappeared, all the Crop being very good. Upon this I imputed it to the Rotting of the Roots, which by their Singleness were very large; and when the different Colours disappeared, I suppose the Roots of all the Oats had reached to the Benefit of the rotted Roots, which might also be then spread farther into the Spaces; and I doubt not but that the Rotting of Broad Clover-roots has the same Effect as of St. Foin, for manuring of Land, especially when the Roots are large.

The other example was where an acre, part of a field, was planted with St. Foin in single rows, about thirty-three inches apart, but was never hoed. After seven years, it was plowed up with the rest of the field across the rows and sown with oats three months after plowing. These rows were clearly visible in the oats as if the St. Foin was still there: the oats in the rows where the St. Foin had been looked a deep green and healthy at first and until they were about half a foot tall, while the spaces between them appeared yellowish. However, after a while, the difference in color disappeared, and the entire crop was very good. I attributed this to the decomposition of the roots, which, due to their single arrangement, were quite large; and once the color differences faded, I suppose the roots of all the oats had benefited from the decomposed roots, which might have spread further into the spaces. I have no doubt that the decomposition of broad clover roots has the same effect as St. Foin for fertilizing the land, especially when the roots are large.

Some have objected against this Opinion, and say the Effect was rather to be imputed to the Rows of St. Foin shadowing the Earth under them, or else from their keeping the Earth under them free from Couch-grass, of which the Intervals were full: But I think it more probable, that the Couch-grass, having very long horizontal Roots, might draw Nourishment from the Earth under the Rows, and from the Intervals equally.

Some have raised objections to this opinion, suggesting that the effect was more likely due to the rows of St. Foin providing shade to the ground beneath them, or possibly because they kept the ground free from couch grass, which filled the gaps in between. However, I believe it's more likely that the couch grass, having very long horizontal roots, could absorb nutrients from both the ground under the rows and from the gaps as well.

And as to the Shadow of the Rows, tho’, for the First and Second Years, the St. Foin Plants were very large; yet, being afterwards, for Five or Six Years, until plowed up, constantly fed by Cattle, and being more sweet, was eaten very low, whilst the Couch-grass remained intire in the Intervals, and shadowed them more than the Earth of the Rows was shadowed by the St. Foin: Besides, the rotten Turneps, which were freed from both these Objections, had the same Effect on the Barley, as the St. Foin had on the Oats.

And regarding the Shadow of the Rows, although during the First and Second Years the St. Foin plants were quite large, they were continuously grazed by cattle for five or six years until they were plowed under. They became sweeter and were eaten down very low, while the Couch grass remained intact in the gaps, casting more shade over them than the soil of the Rows was shaded by the St. Foin. Additionally, the decayed turnips, which avoided both these issues, had the same effect on the barley as the St. Foin had on the oats.

[237]

[237]

The under Earth, in some time, is replenished by what the Rains leave, when they sink through it; and then Tap-rooted Plants may be there nourished again, tho’ the upper Earth be drained by the Corn; so that no Change is so beneficial, as that betwixt Tap-rooted Plants, and those which have only horizontal ones. The former are provided for by Rains, though not so speedily as the latter are by Tillage and Hoeing.

The ground beneath the surface gets replenished over time by what the rains leave behind as they soak in; this allows deep-rooted plants to thrive again, even when the topsoil has been depleted by crops. No change is as beneficial as the one between deep-rooted plants and those with only shallow roots. The former are supported by rain, although not as quickly as the latter benefit from farming and hoeing.

Pastures require no Change of Herbs; because they have annually the same Supply of Food from the Dunging of Cattle that feed on them, and from the Benefit of the Atmosphere.

Pastures don’t need to change their plants because they get a consistent supply of food each year from the manure of the animals that graze on them, as well as from the benefits of the environment.

Meadows hold out without Change of Species of Grass, tho’ a Crop be carried off every Year; the Richness of that Soil, with the Help of the Atmosphere, Dung of Cattle in feeding the After-Crop, or else Flooding, from the overflowing of some River, some, or all of which, supply the Place of the Plough to a Meadow.

Meadows remain unchanged in the types of grass, even though a crop is harvested every year. The fertility of the soil, along with the atmosphere, livestock manure for the subsequent crop, or flooding from an overflowing river—some or all of these factors serve as substitutes for plowing in a meadow.

Woods also hold out beyond Memory or Tradition, without changing Sorts of Trees; and this by the Leaves, and perhaps old Wood, rotting on the Soil annually, which operate as a Manure; because, as has been said, Earth which has once passed any Vessels, is so changed, that, for a long time after, it does not retain its Homogeneity[214] so much as to mix with pure Earth, without fermenting; and by the Descent of the Atmosphere, the Trees shadowing the Soil, to prevent the Re-ascent of what that brings down; all this, resembling Tillage, continually divides the Soil, and renews the Food equal to the Consumption of it made by the Wood.

Woods also extend beyond Memory or Tradition, without changing the types of Trees; and this is due to the Leaves, and maybe old Wood, decaying in the Soil each year, which acts as a fertilizer; because, as mentioned, Earth that has once come into contact with any Vessels is altered so much that, for a long time afterward, it doesn’t maintain its Homogeneity[214] enough to mix with pure Earth without causing a reaction; and due to the influence of the Atmosphere, the Trees provide shade over the Soil, preventing the return of what it brings down; all of this, reminiscent of farming, continuously breaks up the Soil and replenishes the Nutrients equal to what is consumed by the Wood.

[214]Not that the Particles of Earth are strictly homogeneous, but that they are much less heterogeneous, before they are altered by Vessels, than afterwards.

[214]Not that the particles of Earth are completely uniform, but that they are much less varied before they are changed by vessels than they are afterward.

And the last Argument I shall attempt to bring for Confirmation of all I have advanced, is that[238] which proves both the Truth and Use of the rest; viz. That when any Sort of Vegetable, by the due Degrees of Heat and Moisture it requires, is agreeable to a Soil, it may, by the new Horse-hoeing Husbandry, be continued without ever changing the Species.

And the final point I want to make to support everything I've said is this[238]: It shows both the truth and relevance of the rest; namely, that when any type of plant, given the right levels of heat and moisture it needs, is suited to a particular soil, it can be grown continuously using the new horse-hoeing method without ever having to change the species.


CHAP. 15.
Of Change of People.

Seeds, in their natural Climate, do not degenerate, unless Culture has improved them; and then, upon Omission of that Culture, they return to their first natural State.

Sneeds in their natural environment, don’t lose quality unless they’ve been enhanced through cultivation; and when that cultivation stops, they revert to their original natural condition.

As the Benefit of changing of Species of Seeds is from Difference of Tillage, so the Benefit of changing Individuals of the same Species appears to be from those Causes which are, generally, themselves, the Effects of different Climates, such as Heat and Moisture, which may also vary very much in the same Latitude and Neighbourhood; as the same Mountain in the Country of the Mogul (related by Mr. Evelyn, from Monsieur Bernier), on the South Side produces Indian Plants, and on the North Side European Plants, from different Exposures; and some Land, retaining Water longer, is colder; some, suffering it to pass down quicker, and by the Nature and Figure of its Parts, causes such a Refraction and Reflexion of the Sun’s Rays, which give a great Warmth, as in Sand, and gravelly Grounds, that are well situate, and have an under Stratum of some Sort of hollow Matter, next under the Staple[215], [239] or upper Stratum, wherein the Plough is exercised.

The benefit of changing the species of seeds comes from different types of farming, while the advantage of changing individuals of the same species seems to stem from factors that are usually the results of varying climates, like heat and moisture, which can differ significantly even within the same latitude and vicinity. For instance, the same mountain in the land of the Mogul (as noted by Mr. Evelyn from Monsieur Bernier) has Indian plants on the south side and European plants on the north side due to differing exposures. Additionally, some land retains water longer and is colder, while other land lets water drain quickly and, due to the nature and shape of its components, causes such refraction and reflection of the sun’s rays, which generates significant warmth, as seen in sandy and gravelly areas that are well situated and have a layer of some kind of hollow material just below the main soil layer where the plow is used. [215] [239]

[215]This hollow Matter lets the Water pass down the sooner from the Surface, whereby the Staple or the Ground becomes the drier, and consequently warmer.

[215]This empty substance allows the water to drain from the surface more quickly, which makes the soil or ground drier and, as a result, warmer.

This beneficial Change of Individuals seems rather to be from the forementioned Causes, than from Change of Food; and these Causes shew their Efficacy, chiefly in the Generation or Fœtation of those Seeds; as Flax-seed brought from Holland, and sown here, will bring as fine Flax as there; but the very next Generation of it coarser, and so degenerating gradually, after Two or Three Descents, becomes no better than the common ordinary Sort; yet its Food is the same, when the Flax is fine, as when ’tis coarse.

This beneficial change in individuals seems to come more from the reasons mentioned earlier rather than from a change in food. These reasons show their effectiveness mainly in the production or development of those seeds. For example, flaxseed brought from Holland and planted here will yield as fine flax as it does there. However, the very next generation will be coarser, and after two or three generations, it gradually becomes no better than the common ordinary type. Yet, the food provided is the same when the flax is fine as it is when it is coarse.

And so it is, when Individuals of Wheat are changed: So Silk-worms, hatched and bred in France, of Eggs or Seed brought from Italy, will make as fine Silk as the Italian; but the Eggs of these laid in France and their Issue, will make no better Silk than the French; though their Food be from Leaves of the same Mulberry-trees, when they make fine Silk and coarse: Therefore ’tis from the Climate, where the Eggs are impregnated, not where they have their Incubation or Food, when hatched, and fed to their Lives End, that this Difference happens.

And so it is that when Wheat individuals are changed: Silk-worms hatched and raised in France, from Eggs or Seed brought from Italy, will produce as fine Silk as the Italian; but the Eggs from these laid in France and their offspring will make no better Silk than the French; even though their food comes from leaves of the same Mulberry trees, which yield both fine and coarse Silk. Therefore, the difference arises from the climate where the Eggs are fertilized, not from where they are incubated or fed throughout their lives.

Common Barley, sown once in the burning Sand at Patney in Wiltshire, will, for many Years after, if sown on indifferent warm Ground, be ripe Two or Three Weeks sooner than any other[216], which has[240] never been impregnate at Patney: But if sown a Degree farther North, on cold clayey Land, will, in Two or Three Years, lose this Quality, and become as late ripe as any other.

Common barley, planted once in the hot sand at Patney in Wiltshire, will, for many years afterward, if planted in average warm soil, be ready to harvest two or three weeks earlier than anything else[216], which has[240] never been grown at Patney. However, if it's planted a little farther north in cold, clayey soil, it will, in two or three years, lose this quality and ripen as late as any other type.

[216]Barley is far from being improved by becoming rath-ripe; for it loses more good Qualities than it gets by being sown at Patney: ’Tis so tender, that if it be sown early, the Frost is apt to kill it; or if it be sown late in May, on the same Day, and in the same Soil, with the same Sort of Barley that is not rath-ripe, it will be much thinner bodied than the late-ripe; and besides, if it happens to have any Check by Cold or Drought, it never recovers it as the other doth, at what time soever it is sown. It is now, I am informed, gone out of Fashion, and very few Farmers have sown it of late Years. I know a little Parish, that, I believe, formerly lost about Two hundred Pounds per Ann. by sowing rath-ripe Barley: But long and dear Experience hath now convinced them of their Error, and obliged them totally to disuse it.

[216]Barley doesn’t benefit from being early-ripened; it actually loses more good qualities than it gains by being sown at Patney: it's so delicate that if it's sown early, frost can easily kill it; and if it's sown late in May, on the same day and in the same soil as a different type of barley that isn’t early-ripened, it will be significantly thinner than the late-ripened barley. Furthermore, if it experiences any stress from cold or drought, it never recovers as well as the other type does, regardless of when it’s sown. I’ve heard that it’s now out of style, and very few farmers have sown it in recent years. I know a small parish that used to lose about two hundred pounds per Ann. by sowing early-ripened barley. But after long and costly experience, they’ve recognized their mistake and stopped using it altogether.

Indeed Patney is far from improving the Species of Barley, except we think it improved by becoming more weak and tender, and shorter-lived; which last-mentioned Quality fits it for such Countries, where the Summers are too short for other Barley to ripen.

Indeed Patney is not really enhancing the type of Barley, unless we consider it improved by becoming weaker, more delicate, and having a shorter lifespan; this last quality makes it suitable for regions where the summers are too brief for other Barley to mature.

The Grains or Seeds of Vegetables are their Eggs; and the individual Plants, immediately proceeding from them, have not only the Virtues they received in Embryo (or rather in plantulis), but the Diseases also; for when smutty Wheat is sown, unless the Year prove very favourable, the Crop will be smutty; which is an evident Token of mala stamina.

The grains or seeds of vegetables are like their eggs; and the individual plants that grow from them not only inherit the good qualities they had as embryos (or rather in plantulis), but also the diseases. For instance, when contaminated wheat is sown, unless the year is very favorable, the crop will also be contaminated; this is a clear sign of mala stamina.

The smutty Grains will not grow; for they turn to a black Powder: But when some of these are in a Crop, then, to be sure, many of the rest are infected; and the Disease will shew itself in the next Generation, or Descent of it, if the Year wherein ’tis planted prove a wet one.

The infected grains won't grow; they turn into black powder. But when some of these are in a crop, many of the others are sure to get infected too, and the disease will show up in the next generation if the year it's planted is wet.

Weeds, and their Seed, in the Fields where they grow naturally, for Time immemorial, come to as great Perfection as ever, without Change of Soil.

Weeds and their seeds in the fields where they have naturally grown for a very long time reach their peak development without any change in the soil.

These Weeds, with Acorns, and other Masts, Crabs, Sloes, Hips, and Haws, are thought to have been, originally, the only natural Product of our Climate: Therefore other Plants being Exotics, many of them, as to their Individuals, require Culture and Change of Soil, without which they are liable more or less to degenerate.

These weeds, along with acorns and other nuts, crabs, sloes, hips, and haws, are believed to have been the only natural products of our climate. Therefore, many other plants are considered exotic and, depending on the specific type, need cultivation and soil changes; without that, they risk deteriorating more or less.

But to say, that the Soil can cause Wheat to degenerate into Rye, or convert, Rye into Wheat, is what[241] reflects upon the Credit of Laurembergius: ’Tis as easy to believe, that an Horse, by feeding in a certain Pasture, will degenerate into a Bull, and in other Pasture revert to an Horse again; these are scarce of more different Species than Wheat and Rye are: If the different Soil of Wittemberg and Thuringia change one Species, they may the other.

But to claim that soil can cause wheat to turn into rye or change rye into wheat is what[241] undermines the credibility of Laurembergius: It’s just as believable that a horse, by grazing in a specific pasture, will turn into a bull and then revert back to a horse in another pasture; these are hardly more different species than wheat and rye. If the different soil in Wittemberg and Thuringia can change one species, it can certainly change the other.


CHAP. 16.
Of Ridges.

The Method of plowing Land up into Ridges is a particular Sort of Tillage; the chief Use of which is, the Alteration it makes in the Degrees of Heat and Moisture, being two of the grand Requisites of Vegetation; for very different Degrees of these are necessary to different Species of Vegetables.

The Method of plowing land into ridges is a specific type of farming. Its main purpose is to change the levels of heat and moisture, which are two critical requirements for plant growth. Different types of plants need different levels of these factors to thrive.

Those Vegetables commonly sown in our Fields, require a middle Degree of both, not being able to live on the Sides of perpendicular Walls in hot Countries, nor under Water in cold ones, neither are they amphibious, but must have a Surface of Earth not cover’d, nor much soak’d with Water, which deprives them of their necessary Degree of Heat, and causes them to languish. The Symptoms of their Disease are a pale or yellow Colour in their Leaves, and a Cessation of Growth, and Death ensues as sure as from a Dropsy.

Those vegetables that we commonly grow in our fields need a balanced environment. They can't thrive on the edges of steep walls in hot climates or be submerged in water in cold ones. They're not meant to live in both land and water; instead, they need a surface of soil that isn’t too covered or overly soaked with water, as that takes away the warmth they need and makes them weak. Signs of their distress include pale or yellow leaves, a halt in growth, and, just like with dropsy, death will follow.

The only Remedy to prevent this Disease in Plants is, to lay such wet Land up into Ridges, that the Water may run off into the Furrows, and be convey’d by Ditches or Drains into some River.

The only way to prevent this plant disease is to shape the wet land into ridges so that water can flow off into the furrows and be directed through ditches or drains into a river.

The more a Soil is fill’d with Water, the less Heat it will have.

The more water the soil contains, the less heat it will have.

[242]

[242]

The Two Sorts of Land most liable to be overglutted with Water, are Hills, whereof the Upper Stratum (or Staple) is Mould lying upon a Second Stratum of Clay;

The two types of land most likely to be oversaturated with water are hills, where the upper layer (or staple) is soil sitting on a second layer of clay;

And generally all strong deep Land.

And generally all strong, solid land.

Hills are made wet and spewy by the Rain-water which falls thereon, and soaks into them as into other Land; but being stopp’d by the Clay lying next the Surface or Staple, cannot enter the Clay; and for want of Entrance, spreads itself upon it; and as Water naturally tends downwards, it is by the incumbent Mould partly stopp’d in its Descent from the upper towards the lower Side of an Hill; and being follow’d and press’d on by more Water from above, is forced to rise up into the Mould lying upon it, which it fills as a Cistern does a Fountain (or Jet d’Eau). The Land of such an Hill is not the less wet or spewy for being laid up in Ridges, if they be made from the higher to the lower Part of the Field; for the Force of the Water’s Weight continued will raise it so, as to cause it to issue out at the very Tops of those Ridges; the Earth becomes a sort of Pap or Batter, and being like a Quagmire, in going over it, the Feet of Men and Cattle sink in till they come to the Clay.

Hills get wet and muddy from the rainwater that falls on them and soaks in like it does on other land. However, when the water hits the clay just below the surface, it can't penetrate it. So, it spreads out on top of the clay. Since water naturally flows downward, the overlying soil partially blocks its descent from the top to the bottom of the hill. When more water comes down from above, it pushes the existing water upward into the soil above, filling it up like a cistern fills from a fountain (or Jet d’Eau). The land on such a hill remains wet or muddy, even if it's shaped into ridges running from the higher to the lower part of the field. The weight of the water will push it up enough that it can flow out at the tops of those ridges. The soil turns into a sort of mush, and moving across it, the feet of people and animals sink in until they hit the clay below.

There are two Methods of draining such a wet Hill: The one is to dig many Trenches, cross the Hill horizontally[217], and either fill them up with Stones loose or archwise, through which the Water, when it soaks into the Trenches, may run off at one or both Ends of them into some Ditch, which is lower,[243] and carries it away; then they cover the Trenches with Mould, and plow over them as in dry level Ground.

There are two methods for draining a wet hill: One is to dig several trenches across the hill horizontally[217], and either fill them with loose stones or create an arch, so that water can soak into the trenches and flow out at one or both ends into a lower ditch that carries it away. Then, they cover the trenches with soil and plow over them as if they were dry, level ground.[243]

[217]For if they are made with the Descent, and not across it, then they will be parallel to the Rills of Water, that run upon the Surface of the Clay under the Staple (or upper Stratum of Mould), and would be no more effectual for draining the Hill, than the digging of one River parallel to another, without joining it in any Part, would be effectual for draining the other River of its Water.

[217]If they are created with the Descent, and not across it, then they will be parallel to the Water Rills that flow on the Surface of the Clay beneath the Staple (or top Stratum of Soil), and they would be just as useless for draining the Hill as digging one River parallel to another without connecting them at any point would be for draining the other River of its Water.

This Method has been found effectual for a time, but not of long Continuance; for the Trenches are apt to be stopp’d up, and then the Springs break out again as before: Besides, this is a very chargeable Work, and in many Places the Expence of it may almost equal the Purchase of the Land.

This method has been effective for a while, but not for long; the trenches tend to get blocked, and then the springs come back just like before. Plus, this is a very costly undertaking, and in many places, the expense can be nearly equal to the cost of the land itself.

Therefore ’tis a better Method to plow the Ridges cross the Hill almost horizontally, that their parting Furrows, lying open, may each serve as a Drain to the Ridge next below it; for when the Plough has made the Bottom of these horizontal Furrows a few Inches deeper than the Surface of the Clay, the Water will run to their Ends very securely, without rising into the Mould, provided no Part of the Furrows be lower than their Ends.

Therefore, it's a better method to plow the ridges across the hill almost horizontally, so that their parting furrows, lying open, can each act as a drain for the ridge below it. When the plow has made the bottom of these horizontal furrows a few inches deeper than the surface of the clay, the water will flow to their ends safely, without rising into the soil, as long as no part of the furrows is lower than their ends.

These parting Furrows, and their Ridges, must be made more or less oblique, according to the Form and Declivity of the Hill; but the more horizontal they are, the sooner the Rain-water will run off the Lands; for in that Case it will run to the Furrows, and reach them at right Angles, which it will not do when the Ridges (or Lands) are oblique; and therefore the Water’s Course cross the Lands will be longer[218]. Every one of these horizontal Trenches[244] receives all the Water from the Rills, or little Gutters, wherein the Water runs betwixt the Mould and the Clay; these are all cut off by the Trenches, which receive the Water at their upper Sides, and carry it away, as the Trunks of Lead plac’d under the Eaves of a House do carry away the Rain-water.

These parting furrows and their ridges should be angled based on the shape and slope of the hill; however, the more horizontal they are, the quicker the rainwater will drain from the land. This is because, in that case, the water will flow into the furrows at right angles, which won't happen if the ridges (or land) are sloped. As a result, the water's path across the land will be longer[218]. Each of these horizontal trenches[244] collects all the water from the rills, or small gutters, where the water moves between the soil and the clay. These are all intercepted by the trenches, which gather the water at their upper sides and direct it away, much like downspouts placed under a house's eaves carry away rainwater.

[218]The natural Course of Water being downwards, it would always run by the nearest Way to the Bottom of the Hill, if nothing stopt it; but the Water runs from an Hill in Two Manners; viz. Upon the Surface of the Staple, and upon the Surface of the Clay that is under the Staple; that which runs under keeps its strait Course from the Top to the Bottom of an Hill, under a Ridge that is made exactly with the Descent of the Hill, except that Part of the Water that rises up into the Mould, and a very little that soaks into the Furrows, for when the Furrows are not made exactly with the Descent, the more oblique they are to the Descent, the longer will be the Water’s Course under the Ridges; and the shorter, as they are nearer being at Right Angles to the Descent. ’Tis also the same with the Water that falls upon the Surface of the Ridges; for the more horizontal they are, the shorter its Course will be from them to the Furrows, which carry it off; and the less of the Water will sink into the Ridges, the less oblique and the nearer to Right Angles to the Descent they are made.

[218]Water naturally flows downwards, so it would always take the quickest route to the bottom of a hill if nothing blocked it. However, water flows down a hill in two ways: that is, on the surface of the soil and on the surface of the clay underneath. The water that flows underground follows a straight path from the top to the bottom of the hill, under a ridge that aligns precisely with the slope of the hill, except for the part of the water that seeps into the soil and a little that soaks into the furrows. When the furrows aren’t made perfectly in line with the slope, the more angled they are to the descent, the longer the water will travel under the ridges; conversely, the shorter its path will be when they are closer to right angles to the slope. The same applies to water falling on the surface of the ridges: the more horizontal they are, the shorter the distance it will travel from them to the furrows that carry it away, and less of the water will soak into the ridges as they are less angled and closer to right angles to the slope.

If there were no other Manner of plowing Ridges on the Sides of Hills than what is commonly practised on the Plains, this Method of leaving open Furrows (or Drains on Declivities) would be impracticable; because the Plough could not turn up the Furrows against the Hill, and against the Ridge also, from the lower Side of it: But the easy Remedy against that Inconvenience is, to plow such Ridges in Pairs, without throwing any Earth into the Trenches, and then the Ridges will be plain a-top, and the Rain-water will run speedily downward to the next Trench, and thence to the Head-land, and so out of the Field. These Trenches will be made, as well as kept always open, by this plowing in Pairs; and is abundantly more easy than the Way of plowing Ridges singly. This plowing in Pairs prevents also another Inconveniency, which would otherwise happen to these horizontal Ridges; and that is, they being highest in the Middle, the Rain-water could not run freely from the upper Half of a Ridge towards the next Furrow below it, but would be apt to sink in there, and soak thro’ the Ridge; but when Ridges lie in Pairs, the Water will run off from a whole Ridge, as well as off the lower Half of a Ridge that is plow’d singly, and highest in the Middle.

If there were no other way to plow ridges on the sides of hills than what is commonly done on the plains, this method of leaving open furrows (or drains on slopes) wouldn’t work; because the plow couldn’t turn the furrows uphill or against the ridge from the lower side. But an easy solution to that problem is to plow these ridges in pairs, without pushing any soil into the trenches, so the tops of the ridges will be level, and rainwater will quickly flow down to the next trench, then to the headland, and out of the field. These trenches will be created and kept open by this paired plowing, which is much easier than plowing ridges individually. This paired plowing also prevents another issue that could occur with these horizontal ridges; since they are highest in the middle, rainwater wouldn’t flow freely from the upper half of a ridge to the next furrow below. Instead, it would tend to pool there and soak into the ridge. But when ridges are paired, water will run off from the entire ridge, just like off the lower half of a single ridge that’s highest in the middle.

[245]

[245]

Note, That every time of plowing, the Pairs must be changed, so that the Furrow, which had Two Ridges turned towards it one time, must have Two turned from it the next time: This Method keeps the Surfaces of all the Ridges (or Lands) pretty near even[219].

Note: Every time you plow, you must change the pairs so that the furrow, which had two ridges turned toward it one time, has two turned away from it the next time. This method keeps the surfaces of all the ridges (or fields) pretty much even. A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__.

[219]Note, This cannot be done on an Hill, whose Declivity is so great, that the Plough is not able to turn a Furrow against it. But in this Case, perhaps, it may be sufficient to plow the Ridges obliquely enough for the Furrow to be turned both Ways.

[219]Note, This can't be done on a hill that's so steep that the plow can't handle turning a furrow against it. But in this case, it might be enough to plow the ridges at an angle so that the furrow can be turned in both directions.

Farmers are at more Trouble and Pains to drown such Land (it being common to break their Horses Wind in plowing up Hill) than they would be at, if they laid their Ridges in the abovesaid Manner, which would effectually make them dry. Many hundred Acres of good Ground are spoiled; and many a good Horse, in plowing against the Hill, and against all Reason, Demonstration, and Experience too; which might be learned even from the Irish, who drain their Bogs, and make them fruitful, whilst some English bestow much Labour to drown and make barren many of their Hills, which would more easily be made dry and fertile.

Farmers face more trouble and effort to drain such land (since it’s common for them to hurt their horses’ breathing when plowing uphill) than they would if they laid out their fields in the aforementioned way, which would effectively make them dry. Many hundreds of acres of good land are ruined, and many strong horses, while plowing uphill, go against all logic, evidence, and experience; lessons that could even be learned from the Irish, who drain their bogs and make them productive, while some English put in a lot of effort to flood and ruin many of their hills, which could be more easily made dry and fertile.

I have observed, that those Places of such an Hill, that, when plowed with the Descent, were the wettest, and never produced any thing that was sown on them, became the very richest, when made dry by plowing cross the Descent. This shews that Water does not impoverish Land, but the contrary; tho’, whilst it stands thereon, it prevents the Heat which is necessary to the Production of most Sorts of Vegetables: And where it runs swiftly, it carries much Earth away with it; where it runs slowly, it deposits and leaves much behind it.

I’ve noticed that the areas on such a hill, which were the wettest when plowed downhill and didn’t produce anything sown there, became the richest when plowed across the slope. This shows that water doesn’t make land poor, but the opposite; although, when it sits on the land, it blocks the heat needed for most types of plants to grow. Where it flows quickly, it carries a lot of soil away with it; where it flows slowly, it leaves a lot behind.

Though in all Places, where this Way of making the Ridges cross the Descent of Hills is practised, the Land becomes dry; yet very few Farmers will[246] alter their old Method[220]; no, not even to try the Experiment; but still complain their Ground is so wet and spewy, that it brings them little or no Profit; and if the Year prove moist, they are great Losers by sowing it[221].

Though in all places where this method of making the ridges cross the slope of hills is used, the land dries out; very few farmers will[246] change their old ways[220]; not even to try it out; yet they continue to complain that their land is so wet and marshy that it brings them little or no profit; and if the year turns out to be wet, they end up losing a lot by sowing it[221].

[220]But some of late are convinced, by observing that an Hill of mine has been made dry by this means for Fourteen Years past, which before was always more wet and spewy than any Field in the Neighbourhood; and from the time of inclosing it out of an Heath (or Common), and the converting it to arable, which was about Seventy Years ago, it had been reputed as little better than barren, on account of its Wetness; and that it has been the most profitable Field of my Farm ever since it has been under this new Management. I have also another Field, that lies about a Mile and an half from me: It doth not belong to the Farm where I live, but was thrown upon my Hands, no Tenant caring to rent it, because great Part of it was full of Springs, and barren: This also, having been kept in Lands plowed cross the Descent (which is but a small Declivity), is become dry: And now the most prejudiced Farmers agree, that keeping the Lands or Ridges of wet Ground always cross the Descent doth cure its Spewiness. Hereupon some have attempted to put this Method in Practice on their wet Land; and, after it has been well tilled up Hill and down, have plowed it the last time for sowing of Wheat in flat Lands cross the Descent; but by Mismanagement their Furrows are higher at each End than the Middle, so that none of the Water can run off either downwards or sideways, or any other Way.

[220]But recently, some people are convinced, by noticing that a hill of mine has been dry for the past fourteen years, which used to be wetter and muddier than any field nearby. Since I enclosed it, converting it from heathland (or common land) to arable, about seventy years ago, it was considered almost barren due to its wetness. However, it has become the most profitable field on my farm ever since I adopted this new management approach. I also have another field that’s about a mile and a half away. It doesn’t belong to the farm where I live, but I took it on because no one wanted to rent it; much of it was full of springs and deemed barren. This field, having been cultivated across the slope (which is only a slight decline), has also dried out. Now, even the most skeptical farmers agree that managing the wet lands by plowing them across the slope helps prevent excess water buildup. As a result, some have tried to apply this method to their wet land and, after tilling it well uphill and downhill, have plowed it one last time for sowing wheat on the flat lands across the slope. However, due to mismanagement, their furrows end up higher at both ends than in the middle, preventing any water from draining off either downwards, sideways, or in any other direction.

Had the Furrows carried off the Water at both or either of their Ends, it might have been effectual, notwithstanding the broad Lands, because their Ground hath a much less Declivity, and is much less spewy, than my Hill was: They will doubtless find their Mistake, and amend it, having a Precedent before their Eyes; but if they had none within their own Inspection, I question whether this Mismanagement might not discourage them from prosecuting their Project any further.

Had the Furrows removed the Water from both ends or either end, it might have worked, even with the expansive Lands, because their Ground has a much less steep slope and is much less problematic than my Hill was. They will surely realize their mistake and correct it, having a clear example to guide them; however, if they don’t have any within their own view, I wonder if this mismanagement could discourage them from continuing their Project any further.

[221]Remember, in making Ridges of all Sorts, and of whatsoever Figure the Piece is, that no Ridge ought to have any more Furrows at one End, than at the other End; for if there be, the Plough must be turned in the Middle of the Piece, which will cause the Land to be trodden by the Horses; but if each End have an equal Number of Furrows, the Horses in turning will tread only upon the Head lands, which may be plowed afterwards; or if design’d to be Horse-ho’d, the Head-lands should be narrow, and not plowed at all.

[221]Remember, when creating Ridges of all kinds and shapes, that no Ridge should have more Furrows at one end than at the other. If it does, the Plough will need to be turned in the middle of the field, which will compact the soil due to the horses walking on it. However, if both ends have the same number of Furrows, the horses will only walk on the Head lands during the turn, which can be plowed later. If the Head-lands are meant to be Horse-hoed, they should be narrow and left unplowed.

[247]

[247]

The Benefit of laying up strong deep Land into Ridges is very great; tho’ there be no Springs in it, as are in the Hills aforementioned.

The advantage of leveling strong, deep land into ridges is significant, even if there are no springs in it, like those in the previously mentioned hills.

This Land, when it lies flat, and is plowed sometimes one Way, sometimes the other, by cross-plowing, retains the Rain-water a long time soaking into it; by that Misfortune, the Plough is kept out Two or Three Weeks longer than if the same were in round Ridges; nay, sometimes its Flatness keeps it from drying till the Season of plowing, and even of sowing too, be lost.

This land, when it's flat and gets plowed one way and then another by cross-plowing, holds onto rainwater for a long time as it soaks in. Because of this issue, the plow is kept out for an extra two or three weeks compared to if it were in round ridges. In fact, sometimes the flatness prevents it from drying out until the time for plowing, and even sowing, is missed.

The Reasons commonly given against such Ridges are these following.

The common reasons given against such ridges are these:

I. They prevent the fansied Benefit of cross-plowing.

I. They hinder the imagined advantages of cross-plowing.

II. Farmers think they lose Part of their Ground, by leaving more Furrows betwixt Ridges, than when they lay their Land flat, where the Lands are made much larger than round Ridges can conveniently be; and because also the Furrows betwixt Ridges must be broader, and lie open; but the other they fill up by the Harrows.

II. Farmers believe they lose some of their land by leaving more furrows between ridges than when they level their fields, especially where the land is much larger than what round ridges can easily accommodate. Additionally, the furrows between the ridges need to be wider and remain exposed, while in the other case, they get filled in by the harrows.

The first of these I have already answered elsewhere, by shewing, that Cross-plowing is oftener injurious than beneficial.

The first of these I've already addressed elsewhere, showing that cross-plowing is more often harmful than helpful.

The Second I shall sufficiently confute, if I can make appear, that no Ground is lost, but much may be gained, by Ridges.

The second point I will refute adequately if I can show that no ground is lost, but much can be gained, by ridges.

What I mean by gaining of Ground, is the increasing of the Earth’s Surface: For if a flat Piece be plow’d up into Ridges, and if in each Sixteen Feet Breadth there be an empty Furrow of Two Feet; and yet, by the Height and Roundness of the Ridges, they have Eighteen Feet of Surface capable of producing Corn, equally to Eighteen Feet whilst the Piece was flat; there will be one Eighth Part of profitable Ground or Surface gain’d, more than it had[248] when level; and this, I believe, Experience will prove, if the thing were well examined into.

What I mean by gaining ground is increasing the Earth's surface. If a flat piece of land is plowed into ridges, and there's an empty furrow of two feet for every sixteen feet of width, the height and roundness of the ridges create eighteen feet of surface that can produce corn, just like the eighteen feet when the land was flat. This means there will be one-eighth more productive ground or surface gained than it had when it was level. I believe experience will demonstrate this if it's properly examined.[248]

But against this Increase of profitable Ground, there is an Objection, which I must not call a frivolous one, in respect to the Authors who bring it; yet, I hope, the Desire of finding the Truth will justify me to examine it; and the Arguments brought to sustain it.

But against this increase of valuable land, there is an objection that I can't dismiss as trivial, considering the authors who propose it. However, I hope that my desire to uncover the truth will justify my examination of it and the arguments put forward to support it.

This Opinion of theirs is founded upon their Notion (which I think very erroneous) of the perpendicular Growth of Vegetables; and is, by Mr. Bradley, set in its best Light, in his Vol. I. Pag. 8. usque ad Pag. 13. and in his Cuts, representing Three Hills; but his Arguments seem to be such as all Arguments are, which pretend to prove a thing to be what it is not; viz. Sophistical ones.

This opinion of theirs is based on their idea (which I believe is very mistaken) about the vertical growth of plants. Mr. Bradley presents this idea in the best light in his Vol. I. Pag. 8. usque ad Pag. 13., along with his illustrations of three hills. However, his arguments seem to be just like all arguments that try to prove something is what it isn't; namely, fallacious ones.

The Hypothesis he endeavours to prove, is in Pag. 8. thus: ‘An Hill may contain Four equal Sides, which meet in a Point at the Top; but the Contents of these Four Sides can produce no more, either of Grain or Trees, than the plain Ground, upon which the Hill stands, or has at its Base: and yet, by the Measure of the Sides, we find twice the Number of Acres, Roods, and Poles, which measure in the Base, or Ground-plat; and therefore Page 9. Hills are worth no more than half their Superficial Measure; i. e. Two Acres upon the Side of the Hill to pay as much as one upon the Plain, provided the Soil of both is equally rich.’

The hypothesis he tries to prove is on Page 8. It states: ‘A hill can have four equal sides that meet at a point at the top, but the area of these four sides can produce no more crops or trees than the flat ground on which the hill stands or at its base. However, when measuring the sides, we find twice the number of acres, roods, and poles compared to what is measured at the base or ground level; therefore, as stated on Page 9, hills are worth no more than half their surface area; i.e. two acres on the side of the hill are worth the same as one acre on level ground, assuming both soils are equally fertile.’

To prove it, he gives an Example in Fig. III. of Buildings upon an Hill; shewing, that the Two Sides of the Hill will only bear the same Number of Houses, that may stand in the Line at the Base.

To prove it, he gives an example in Fig. III. of buildings on a hill, showing that the two sides of the hill can only support the same number of houses that can fit in a line at the base.

This is foreign to the Question, of how much Grain, or how many Trees, the Hill will produce. For Vegetables, being fed by the Earth, require much more of its Surface to nourish them, than is necessary for them to stand on; but Buildings require no more[249] of the Surface but Room to stand on: Therefore no such Argument, taken from Buildings, can be applied to Vegetables.

This is unrelated to the question of how much grain or how many trees the hill will produce. Vegetables, being nourished by the earth, need a lot more surface area to grow than what they actually occupy. In contrast, buildings only need enough space to stand. So, any argument based on buildings can't be applied to vegetables.[249]

This Argument of Mr. Bradley’s gives no more Satisfaction to the Question about producing of Vegetables, than a Grazier would do, being asked, how many Oxen a certain Pasture-ground would maintain, if he should answer, by satisfying you with the Number of Churches which might stand thereon.

This argument from Mr. Bradley doesn’t provide any more satisfaction to the question about growing vegetables than a rancher would, if asked how many cattle a particular pasture could support, by responding with the number of churches that could be built on it.

The like Answer, in effect, may be given to the Argument in Fig. IV. of the Pales; only he has forgot to shew, that to mound over the Hill would require double the Rails, or double the Hedge-wood (except Stakes) as to mound the Base; if it did not, the Hill would be yet of the more Value, because thereon more Surface might be fenced in at less Expence.

The same answer can basically be applied to the argument in Fig. IV. of the Pales; however, he forgot to show that constructing a mound over the hill would require double the rails or double the hedgewood (not including stakes) compared to mounding the base. If it didn't, the hill would be even more valuable because more surface area could be fenced in at a lower cost.

In his Fig. II. he gives no good Reason why the Hill should not bear twice the Number of Trees as the Base can do; for there is as much Room for Two hundred Trees on the Hill, as for One hundred on the Base, because he allows the Surface to be double to that of the Base. He ought to measure the Distances of the Trees on the Hill, by a Line parallel to the Surface they grow on, as well as he does the Distances of those below.

In his Fig. II, he doesn’t provide a valid reason why the hill shouldn’t support twice as many trees as the base can hold; there’s enough space for two hundred trees on the hill, just like there is for one hundred on the base since he states that the surface area is double that of the base. He should measure the distances between the trees on the hill using a line that is parallel to the surface they grow on, just like he does for those below.

And suppose the Row at the Base, together with the Surface they grow on, were rais’d up, so that it should become parallel to half the Row on the Hill, would not the Trees in the Base Row be twice as near to one another as the Trees in the Hill Row are? And suppose a Line had been ty’d from the Tops of all the lower Trees, before the Row was so rais’d up at one End, and then, after the Situation of the Row was so alter’d, if by this Line the Trees should be pull’d from being perpendicular to the Surface they grow on, and made to stand oblique to that, and perpendicular to the Horizon, as the upper Trees are; would the Distances of the Trees from one another be[250] alter’d by this Change of Posture? No, for their Bottoms would be at the same Distances, because not removed; and their Tops, because the same Line holds them, at the same Distances in both Postures.

And let's say the Row at the Bottom, along with the Surface it grows on, was lifted up so that it became parallel to half of the Row on the Hill. Wouldn't the Trees in the Bottom Row be twice as close to each other as the Trees in the Hill Row? And imagine a Line was tied from the Tops of all the lower Trees before the Row was lifted at one End. Then, after the Row's position was changed, if the Trees were pulled away from being vertical to the Surface they grow on and instead made to stand at an angle to that, while being vertical to the Horizon like the upper Trees; would the distances between the Trees change because of this new position? No, because their Bottoms would still be at the same distances, since they haven't moved; and their Tops would also remain at the same distances in both positions because the same Line connects them.

Mr. Bradley’s Lines, drawn from the Trees below, which are one Perch asunder, make the Two Rows of Trees falsly seem to be at equal Distances, because these Lines are parallel to each other: But this is a Deceit; for, in Truth, the Distances of the Trees are not measured by the Distances of those Lines, but by the extreme Points at the Ends of the Lines[222]; and those Two Points above, where the Lines cut the Row obliquely, and at unequal Angles are twice as far asunder as the endmost or extreme Points below are, where the Lines cut the Row at right Angles. Hence may be inferr’d, that there is Room for twice as many Trees to grow on the Hill as on the Base, and twice as much Grain for the same Reason; because there is twice the Surface for the Roots to spread in. And since Mr. Bradley allows the Hill to contain Two Perches to One of the Base, and the Soil of both to be of equal Goodness; and yet affirms, that the Two can produce no more of Grain or Trees than the one Perch can; I cannot see, why it should not be as reasonable to say, that Two Quarters of Oats will maintain an Horse no longer, nor better, than One Quarter of Oats, of equal Goodness, will do.

Mr. Bradley’s lines, drawn from the trees below, which are one perch apart, make the two rows of trees falsely appear to be at equal distances because these lines are parallel to each other. But this is deceptive; in reality, the distances between the trees are not determined by the distances of those lines but by the extreme points at the ends of the lines [222]; and those two points above, where the lines intersect the row at an angle, are twice as far apart as the extreme points below, where the lines intersect the row at right angles. Thus, it can be inferred that there is space for twice as many trees to grow on the hill as there are on the base, and twice as much grain for the same reason; because there is double the surface area for the roots to spread. And since Mr. Bradley claims that the hill has two perches for every one on the base and that the soil of both is equally good; yet he asserts that the two can't produce any more grain or trees than one perch can, I fail to see why it isn't just as reasonable to say that two quarters of oats will support a horse no longer or better than one quarter of oats of the same quality.

[222]These upper Trees are measured by the unequal Length of the Lines, not by their parallel Distance, as the lower Trees are; therefore his Measure is a Quibble.

[222]These upper Trees are measured by the varying lengths of the lines, not by their parallel distance, like the lower Trees are; so his measurement is a joke.

In Page 13. he concludes thus: ‘That Hills, in their Measure, contain only as much profitable Land as the Plain or Plat of Ground they stand upon; and as a Proof of that, all Vegetables or Plants have an erect Method of Growth.’

In Page 13, he concludes: ‘Hills contain as much usable land as the flat ground they sit on. To prove this, all plants have a vertical way of growing.’

This Proof of Mr. Bradley’s is founded upon an Argument which has no Consequence, unless it were[251] first proved, that the Surface of Earth could produce and maintain as many Vegetables or Plants as could stand thereon in an erect Posture; which Supposition is as impossible, as that half an Acre should produce and maintain an Hecatomb, without Mr. Bradley’s teaching Oxen to live upon Air for their Food, as he thinks Van Helmont’s Tree did.

This proof from Mr. Bradley is based on an argument that has no significance unless it's first proven that the surface of the Earth can produce and support as many plants as can stand upright on it; which assumption is as impossible as expecting half an acre to produce and sustain a large number of livestock, without Mr. Bradley teaching oxen to survive on air for food, as he believes Van Helmont's tree did.[251]

All expert Husbandmen must needs be convinced, that the greatest Crop of Vegetables that ever grew, might stand in an erect Posture, upon a twentieth (and I may say the Hundredth) Part of the Surface that produced it; therefore there must be Nineteen Parts for the Roots to spread, unoccupied by the Trunks, Stems, or Stalks.

All expert farmers must be convinced that the biggest crop of vegetables that ever grew could stand upright on just a twentieth (and I might even say a hundredth) of the land that produced it; therefore, there must be nineteen parts for the roots to spread out, without being taken up by the trunks, stems, or stalks.

And tho’ it be true, that an Hill will support no more of these, than its Base, when placed in an erect Posture, close together, as in a Sheaf; yet this close Position is only proper for them when they are dead, and require no more Nourishment than Houses and Pales do; and consequently require no Room but to stand on. Therefore this Argument of Mr. Bradley’s must not be admitted in vegetative Growth, where there is always required Nineteen times more Room in the Surface, for the Use of the Roots, than what the Stems, Trunks, or Stalks, do possess upon it: And the more Room there is for the Roots, the greater Number of Plants may be produced.

And although it's true that a hill can only support as many of these as its base can hold when positioned upright and close together, like in a sheaf, this close arrangement is only suitable for them when they are dead and don’t need more nourishment than buildings and fences do; thus, they only need enough space to stand on. Therefore, Mr. Bradley’s argument shouldn't be accepted in active growth, where the roots always need nineteen times more surface area than what the stems, trunks, or stalks occupy. The more space there is for the roots, the greater the number of plants that can thrive.

Neither can I admit, that all Vegetables or Plants have an erect Method of Growth; because the contrary is seen in Chamomile, and divers other Vegetables, which have an horizontal Method of Growth.

Neither can I say that all vegetables or plants grow upright; because the opposite can be seen in chamomile and several other plants, which have a horizontal method of growth.

But what is more material to this Purpose, to be observed, is, that all Vegetables have horizontal Roots, and Roots parallel to the Earth’s Surface or Superficies; and unless those Roots have a sufficient Superficies of Earth to range in, for Nourishment of a Plant, the Stem and Branches cannot prosper,[252] whatever be their Method of Growth above the Earth; and if there be not a due Quantity of Food for the Roots within the Earth, a very little Space may contain the external Parts of Vegetables upon it.

But what's more important to note is that all plants have horizontal roots that run parallel to the Earth's surface. If those roots don't have enough soil to spread out in for the plant's nourishment, the stem and branches can't thrive, no matter how they grow above the ground. And if there's not enough food for the roots in the soil, even a small area can only support limited plant growth on top of it.[252]

From what has been said, I think we may conclude, that Mr. Bradley’s Hill may produce more Vegetables than the Base whereon it stands; and therefore it is of more Value than half its superficial Measure; i. e. Two Acres on the Hill are worth more than one Acre on the Plain, the Soil being equally rich, as he allows it to be, in his Case.

From what we've discussed, I think we can conclude that Mr. Bradley's Hill can produce more vegetables than the land it sits on. Therefore, it’s more valuable than just half its surface area; i.e. two acres on the hill are worth more than one acre in the flat land, assuming the soil is equally rich, which he does acknowledge in his case.

Now, indeed, whether Mr. Bradley might not possibly be deceived in his Opinion of the equal Richness of his Hill, and his Plain, I will not dispute: I will only say this, that ’tis generally otherwise. But where a Plain is plow’d up into moderate Ridges, their Height being in proportion to the Depth of the Staple, below which the Plough must take nothing into the Ridges, the Soil is equally rich, whether it be plowed plain, or ridged up. And as the Surface is in the Ridges increased, there is nothing in all Mr. Bradley’s Arguments, that shews, why that increased Surface should not produce more Vegetables than the same Earth could do whilst it was level.

Now, whether Mr. Bradley might be mistaken in thinking that his hill and plain are equally rich, I won’t argue: I’ll only point out that generally, it’s different. However, when a plain is plowed into moderate ridges, with the height of the ridges proportional to the depth of the soil, below which the plow must avoid taking anything into the ridges, the soil is equally rich whether it’s plowed flat or in ridges. And since the surface area in the ridges is increased, there’s nothing in Mr. Bradley’s arguments that shows why that increased surface wouldn’t produce more plants than the same soil would when it was level.

There are other Reasons why it should produce more when ridged[223], besides the Increase of Surface; as,

There are other reasons why it should produce more when ridged[223], apart from the increase in surface; as,

I. ’Tis then more free from the Injuries of too much Water.

I. It’s then more free from the damage of too much water.

[253]

[253]

II. ’Tis better protected against cold Winds; because the Ridges are a Shelter to one another.

II. It’s better protected against cold winds because the ridges shelter each other.

III. If the Surface be much exhausted, by too frequent Sowing, the Ridges may be made just where the Furrows were, and then the Surface will be intirely changed.

III. If the soil is heavily depleted from too much planting, the ridges can be placed exactly where the furrows were, and then the surface will be completely changed.

[223]To the Three we may add a Fourth Reason, viz. the raising the Thickness of the Staple in the Ridges, keeping the Surface drier in wet Weather, and moister at the Bottom of the Staple in dry Weather. And I have seen Barley that was drilled on my raised little Ridges flourish in a dry Summer on the Brow of my chalky Hill, and on my lowest Land in wet Weather, when the Barley hand-sown contiguous to it on each Side those Ridges, sown on the Level the same Day that the Ridges were drilled, have looked yellow and sickly; and yet it is not wet Land.

[223]To the Three we can add a Fourth Reason, that is the increased thickness of the staple in the ridges, which keeps the surface drier in wet weather and moister at the bottom of the staple in dry weather. I’ve seen barley that was drilled on my raised little ridges thrive in a dry summer on the edge of my chalky hill, while on my lowest land in wet weather, the barley that was hand-sown adjacent to those ridges, planted on the same day as the drilled ridges, looked yellow and unhealthy, and yet it’s not wet land.

The following general Rules ought to be observed about Ridges; viz.

The following general rules should be followed about ridges; viz.

That, as to their Height, regard must be had to the Nature of the Soil, in its difficult Admission of Water; for the greater that is, the greater Declivities the Ridges should have; and then, if the Soil be not deep, they should generally be made the narrower.

That, regarding their height, attention must be paid to the type of soil and how well it absorbs water; the greater it is, the steeper the slopes of the ridges should be. If the soil isn't deep, the ridges should generally be narrower.

There is one thing which Mr. Bradley takes no notice of; viz. That no more of the Rain, or other Benefits of the Atmosphere, which descend perpendicularly, can fall on an Hill, or on a Ridge, than what would fall on the Base, or Ground-plot. But ’tis probable, that more of the fine Vapour, which swims in the Current of the Air horizontally, does strike and break against those Eminences, and so make an Equivalent[224], except that it runs off more quickly.

There’s one thing Mr. Bradley doesn’t notice; namely, that no more rain or other benefits from the atmosphere that fall straight down can land on a hill or ridge than would fall on the base or ground level. However, it’s likely that more of the fine vapor that floats in the air horizontally hits and breaks against those high points, creating an equivalent [224], except that it flows away more quickly.

[224]But though Ridges do alter or increase the Surface, the Quantity of Soil or Earth remaining the same as on the Level, and of no greater Depth than can be tilled, it may produce equal Crops of Corn with the Level, and no more; except from the Advantage the Ridges may give it in lying drier.

[224]But while ridges change or raise the surface, the amount of soil or earth stays the same as it would on level ground, and is not deeper than what can be farmed. This can still yield the same amount of corn crops as flat land, and no more, except for the benefit that ridges may provide in staying drier.

Notwithstanding all I have here said, in behalf of Ridges, I must confess, that, for my Hoeing-Husbandry, I should prefer Land that is naturally dry enough, without a Necessity of being laid up in any larger or higher Ridges than what may contain Six Feet in Breadth[225], that Size being the largest that is proper for the regular Operation of the Horse-hoe.

Notwithstanding everything I’ve said here in support of Ridges, I must admit that for my Hoeing-Husbandry, I would prefer land that is naturally dry enough, without needing to be laid out in any larger or higher Ridges than what can fit Six Feet in Width[225], that size being the largest suitable for the regular operation of the Horse-hoe.

[225]Since the Printing of my Essay, I find, upon Trial, that these narrow Ridges are as effectual as any for carrying the Water off from my clayey Hill; and that they be made much less horizontal than broad Ridges, whereby their Furrows are the more easily turned upwards against the Declivity.

[225]Since publishing my essay, I've discovered through experimentation that these narrow ridges are just as effective as any for draining water off my clayey hill. They've also been constructed to be much less horizontal than broad ridges, which makes it easier to turn their furrows upward against the slope.

I have not tried any narrower Ridge than that of Six Feet upon this Hill: But I have had full Experience of Five-feet and of Four-feet Ridges upon other Land; and find that all Sizes of these narrow Ridges are very advantageous, even where the Crop is to be sown upon the Level; for fewer Furrows are necessary for the Tilling of an Acre, when ’tis kept in such Ridges, than in broad Lands; and after wet Weather the Ridges will be fit to be plowed much sooner than level Ground.

I haven't worked with any narrower ridges than the Six Feet on this hill, but I've had plenty of experience with Five-foot and Four-foot ridges on other land. I find that all sizes of these narrow ridges are really beneficial, even when the crop is sown on level ground. That's because you need fewer furrows to till an acre when it's in those ridges compared to wide fields, and after rainy weather, the ridges are ready to be plowed much sooner than flat land.


[254]

[254]

CHAP. 17.
Of Differences between the Old and the New Husbandry.

In order to make a Comparison between the Hoeing-Husbandry, and the old Way, there are Four Things, whereof the Differences ought to be very well considered.

In order to compare hoe-based farming with the traditional method, there are four aspects that the differences should be carefully considered.

I. The Expence } of a Crop.
II. The Goodness
III. The Certainty
IV. The Condition in which the Land is left after a Crop.

The Profit or Loss arising from Land, is not to be computed, only from the Value of the Crop it produces; but from its Value, after all Expences of Seed, Tillage, &c. are deducted.

The profit or loss from land isn't just calculated based on the value of the crops it produces; it takes into account its value after all expenses like seeds, cultivation, &c. have been deducted.

Thus, when an Acre brings a Crop worth Four Pounds, and the Expences thereof amount to Five Pounds, the Owner’s Loss is One Pound; and when an Acre brings a Crop which yields Thirty Shillings, and the Expence amounts to no more than Ten Shillings, the Owner receives One Pound, clear Profit, from this Acre’s very small Crop, as the other loses One Pound by his greater Crop.

Thus, when an acre produces a crop worth Four Pounds, and the expenses amount to Five Pounds, the owner's loss is One Pound; and when an acre produces a crop that yields Thirty Shillings, with expenses totaling no more than Ten Shillings, the owner makes One Pound in clear profit from this acre's very small crop, as the other owner loses One Pound from his larger crop.

[255]

[255]

The usual Expences of an Acre of Wheat, sown in the old Husbandry, in the Country where I live, is, in some Places, for Two Bushels and an half of Seed; in other Places Four Bushels and an half; the least of these Quantities at Three Shillings per Bushel, being the present Price, is Seven Shillings and Six-pence. For Three Plowings, Harrowing, and Sowing, Sixteen Shillings; but if plow’d Four times, which is better, One Pound. For Thirty Load of Dung, to a Statute Acre, is Two Pounds Five Shillings. For Carriage of the Dung, according to the Distance, from Two Shillings to Six-pence the Load, One Shilling being the Price most common, is One Pound Ten Shillings. The Price for Weeding is very uncertain; it has sometimes cost Twelve Shillings, sometimes Two Shillings per Acre.

The typical costs of an acre of wheat, planted using the old farming methods, in the area where I live, range from two and a half bushels of seed in some places to four and a half bushels in others; the minimum amount at three shillings per bushel, which is the current price, totals seven shillings and sixpence. For three plowings, harrowing, and sowing, the cost is sixteen shillings; but if plowed four times, which is better, it costs one pound. For thirty loads of dung for a statute acre, the cost is two pounds five shillings. The cost for transporting the dung, depending on the distance, ranges from two shillings to sixpence per load, with one shilling being the most common price, totaling one pound ten shillings. The price for weeding varies quite a bit; it has at times cost twelve shillings, and other times two shillings per acre.

  l. s. d.
In Seed and Tillage, nothing can be abated of 01 03 06
For the Weeding, one Year with another, is more than 00 02 00
For the Rent of the Year’s Fallow 00 10 00
For the Dung; ’tis in some Places a little cheaper, neither do they always lay on quite so much; therefore abating 15s. in that Article, we may well set Dung and Carriage at 02 10 00
Reaping commonly 5s. sometimes less 00 04 06
Total 04 10 00

Folding of Land with Sheep is reckoned abundantly cheaper than Cart-dung; but this is to be questioned, because much Land must lie still for keeping a Flock (unless there be Downs); and for their whole Year’s keeping, with both Grass and Hay, there are but Three Months of the Twelve wherein the Fold is of any considerable Value; this makes the Price of their Manure[256] quadruple to what it would be, if equally good all the Year, like Cart-dung: And folding Sheep yield little Profit, besides their Dung; because the Wool of a Flock, except it be a large one, will scarce pay the Shepherd and the Shearers. But there is another thing yet, which more inhances the Price of Sheep-Dung; and that is, the dunging the Land with their Bodies, when they all die of the Rot, which happens too frequently in many Places; and then the whole Crop of Corn must go to purchase another Flock, which may have the same Fate the ensuing Year, if the Summer prove wet; and so may the Farmer be served for several more successive Years, unless he should break, and another take his Place, or that dry Summers come in time to prevent it. To avoid this Misfortune, he would be glad to purchase Cart-dung at the highest Price, for supplying the Place of his Fold; but ’tis only near Cities, and great Towns, that a sufficient Quantity can be procured.

Using sheep to fertilize land is considered much cheaper than using cart manure; however, this is debatable. A lot of land needs to be left unused to keep a flock (unless there are heaths), and throughout the year, with both grass and hay, there are only three months when the fold is substantially valuable. This makes the price of their manure four times what it would be if it were good all year round, like cart manure. Additionally, raising sheep offers little profit beyond their manure, as the wool from a flock, unless it's quite large, barely covers the costs of the shepherd and shearers. Furthermore, there's another aspect that increases the value of sheep dung: when they all die from disease, which unfortunately happens too often in many places, the entire crop of corn must be sold to buy another flock that might face the same fate the next year if the summer is wet. This cycle can continue for several years unless the farmer goes bankrupt and is replaced by someone else, or unless dry summers arrive just in time to prevent it. To avoid this disaster, the farmer would be eager to buy cart manure at the highest price to substitute for his flock, but it is only near cities and large towns that a sufficient quantity is available.

But, supposing the Price of Dunging to be only Two Pounds Ten Shillings, and the general Expence of an Acre of Wheat, when sown, at Three Shillings per Bushel, to be Four Pounds Ten Shillings, with the Year’s Rent of the Fallow;

But, let's say the cost of fertilizing is just two pounds ten shillings, and the total expense for an acre of wheat, when planted, at three shillings per bushel, amounts to four pounds ten shillings, including the yearly rent for the fallow land;

The Expences of planting an Acre of Wheat in the Hoeing-Husbandry, is Three Pecks of[226] Seed, at Three Shillings per Bushel, is Two Shillings and Three-pence. The whole Tillage, if done by Horses, would be Eight Shillings; because our Two Plowings, and Six Hoeings[227], are equal to Two Plowings;[257] the common Price whereof is Four Shillings each; but this we diminish half, when done by Oxen kept on St. Foin, in this manner; viz. Land worth Thirty Shillings Rent, drill’d with St. Foin, will well maintain an Ox a Year[228], and sometimes Hay will be left to pay for the Making: We cannot therefore allow more than One Shilling a Week for his Work, because his Keeping comes but to Seven-pence a Week round the Year.

The cost of planting an acre of wheat using hoeing is three pecks of [226] seed, which at three shillings per bushel, totals to two shillings and three pence. The total tillage, if done with horses, would be eight shillings; since our two plowings and six hoeings [227] are equivalent to two plowings; [257] the usual price for each is four shillings. However, we cut this in half when done by oxen kept on St. Foin, like this: viz. land worth thirty shillings in rent, drilled with St. Foin, can support an ox for a year [228], and sometimes there’s leftover hay to cover the cost of making it. Therefore, we can’t allow more than one shilling a week for his work, as his upkeep only amounts to seven pence a week throughout the year.

[226]Sometimes half a Bushel is the most just Quantity of Seed, to drill on an Acre.

[226]Sometimes half a bushel is the most appropriate amount of seed to plant on an acre.

[227]But we sometimes plow our Six-feet Ridges before Drilling, at Five or Six Furrows, which is a Furrow or Two more than I have reckoned: But we do not always hoe Six times afterwards. But it is better for successive Wheat-crops to bestow the Labour of as many Hoeings as amount to three plain Plowings in a Year, it being a greater Damage to omit one necessary Hoeing, than is the Expence of several Hoeings.

[227]But sometimes we plow our six-foot ridges before drilling, making five or six furrows, which is one or two more than I had calculated. However, we don’t always hoe six times afterward. It’s better for consecutive wheat crops to do as many hoeings as equal three straightforward plowings in a year, since it’s more damaging to skip one necessary hoeing than the cost of several hoeings.

[228]Or an Ox may be well kept Nine Months, with an Acre of indifferent Horse-ho’d Turneps; and if we value them only at the Expence and Rent of the Land, this will be a yet cheaper Way of maintaining Oxen. Upon more Experience it is found, that St. Foin Hay alone, or with a small Quantity of Turneps, is best for working Oxen in the Winter; but a Plenty of Turneps with the same Hay is better for fatting Oxen that do not work.

[228]An ox can be well-fed for nine months on an acre of average turnips. If we just consider the costs and rent of the land, this is an even cheaper way to feed oxen. With more experience, it's been found that St. Foin hay by itself, or with a small amount of turnips, is best for working oxen in the winter; however, a lot of turnips combined with the same hay is better for fattening oxen that aren't working.

In plain Plowing, Six Feet contains Eight Furrows; but we plow a Six-feet Ridge at Four Furrows, because in this there are Two Furrows cover’d in the Middle of it, and one on each Side of it lies open. Now what we call one Hoeing, is only Two Furrows of this Ridge, which is equal to a Fourth Part of one plain Plowing; so that the Hoeing of Four Acres requires an equal Number of Furrows with one Acre that is plow’d plain, and equal Time to do it in (except that the Land, that is kept in Hoeing, works much easier than that which is not).

In regular plowing, six feet has eight furrows; but we plow a six-foot ridge with four furrows because it has two furrows covered in the middle and one on each side that remains open. What we refer to as one hoeing is just two furrows of this ridge, which is about a quarter of one standard plowing. So, hoeing four acres needs the same number of furrows as one acre that is plowed normally, and takes about the same amount of time to complete (except that the land kept in hoeing is much easier to work than land that isn’t).

All the Tillage we ever bestow upon a Crop of Wheat that follows a ho’d Crop, is equal to Eight Hoeings[229]; Two of which may require Four Oxen each, One of them Three Oxen, and the other Five Hoeings Two Oxen each. However, allow Three Oxen to each single Hoeing, taking them all one with another, which is Three Oxen more than it comes to in the Whole.

All the tilling we do for a crop of wheat following a hoed crop is equivalent to eight hoeings. Two of these may need four oxen each, one needs three oxen, and the other five hoeings require two oxen each. However, if we consider three oxen for each single hoeing on average, that's three oxen more than the total needed overall.

[229]But the Number of Oxen required will be according to their Bigness and Strength, and to the Depth and Strength of the Soil, which also will be the easier Draught for the Oxen, the oftener the Intervals are hoed.

[229]But the number of oxen needed will depend on their size and strength, as well as the depth and toughness of the soil. The oxen will have an easier time pulling if the intervals are hoed more frequently.

[258]

[258]

Begin at Five in the Morning, and in about Six Hours you may hoe Three Acres, being equal in Furrows to Three Rood; i. e. Three Quarters of an Acre. Then turn the Oxen to Grass, and after resting, eating, and drinking, Two Hours and an half, with another Set of Oxen begin Hoeing again; and by or before half an Hour after Seven at Night, another like Quantity may be ho’d. These are the Hours the Statute has appointed all Labourers to work, during the Summer Half-year.

Start at 5 in the morning, and in about 6 hours, you can hoe 3 acres, which is equal to 3 roods; i.e. three-quarters of an acre. Then, let the oxen graze, and after resting, eating, and drinking for 2.5 hours, begin hoeing again with another set of oxen. By or before 7:30 in the evening, you can hoe another similar amount. These are the hours that the law has set for all laborers to work during the summer half of the year.

To hoe these Six Acres a Day, each Set of Oxen draw the Plough only Eight Miles and a Quarter, which they may very well do in Five Hours; and then the Holder and Driver will be at their Work of Plowing Ten Hours, and will have Four Hours and an half to rest, &c.

To till these six acres a day, each team of oxen pulls the plow just over eight miles, which they can easily manage in five hours; then the person holding the plow and the driver will be busy plowing for ten hours and will have four and a half hours to rest, &c.

The Expence then of hoeing Six Acres in a Day, in this manner, may be accounted, at One Shilling the Man that holds the Plough, Six-pence the Boy that drives the Plough, One Shilling for the Six Oxen, and Six-pence for keeping the Tackle in Repair. The whole Sum for hoeing these Six Acres is Three Shillings, being Six-pence per Acre[230].

The cost of hoeing six acres in a day can be broken down like this: One Shilling for the man operating the plow, Six-pence for the boy driving the plow, One Shilling for the six oxen, and Six-pence for maintaining the equipment. The total cost for hoeing these six acres is Three Shillings, which comes to Six-pence per acre[230].

[230]But where there is not the Convenience of keeping Oxen, the Price of Hoeing with Horses is One Shilling each time.

[230]But where it's not practical to keep oxen, the cost of plowing with horses is one shilling each time.

When a Roller is used, which is less than a Hoeing, because one Person to lead is enough, and that may be a Boy; and once in an interval may suffice; then ’tis less Labour than half a Hoeing; and for this we may well abate One Hoeing of the Eight.

When a Roller is used, which is easier than Hoeing, because one person is enough to operate it, and that can be a boy; and using it once in a while is sufficient; then it requires less work than half of Hoeing; and for this reason, we can reasonably reduce one Hoeing from the eight.

They who follow the old Husbandry cannot keep Oxen so cheap, because they can do nothing without the Fold, and Store-sheep will spoil the St. Foin. They may almost as well keep Foxes and Geese together, as Store-sheep and good St. Foin. Besides, the sowed St. Foin cost Ten times as much the Planting as drill’d St. Foin does, and must be frequently manured, or else it will soon decay; especially upon all sorts of chalky Land, whereon ’tis most commonly sown.

Those who stick to traditional farming can't keep cattle at a low cost because they rely on the barn, and grazing sheep will ruin the St. Foin. Keeping sheep and St. Foin together is almost as foolish as keeping foxes and geese in the same pen. Additionally, the planted St. Foin costs ten times more to establish than drilled St. Foin, and it needs to be regularly fertilized, or it will quickly deteriorate, especially on all types of chalky soil where it’s usually planted.

[259]

[259]

The Expence of drilling cannot be much; for as we can hoe Six Acres a Day, at Two Furrows on each Six-feet Ridge, so we may drill Twenty-four Acres a Day, with a Drill that plants Two of those Ridges at once; and this we may reckon a Peny Half-peny an Acre. But because we find it less Trouble to drill single Ridges, we will set the Drilling, at most, Six-pence per Acre.

The cost of drilling shouldn't be too high; since we can hoe six acres a day with two furrows on each six-foot ridge, we can drill twenty-four acres a day with a drill that plants two of those ridges at once. We can estimate this at a penny and a half per acre. However, since we find it less complicated to drill single ridges, we'll set the drilling cost at most at six pence per acre.

As every successive Crop (if well managed) is more free from Weeds than the preceding Crop; I will set it all together at Six-pence[231] an Acre for Weeding[232].

As every new crop (if managed properly) is less likely to have weeds than the previous one; I will total it all at Six-pence[231] per acre for weeding[232].

[231]This is when the Land has been well cleansed of Weeds in the preceding Crop, or Fallow, or both.

[231]This is when the land has been thoroughly cleared of weeds from the previous crop, or left fallow, or both.

[232]This may be enough, if the Land be well cleansed the Year before, and considering that several Years in such there is no Occasion for Weeding at all: And as this Calculation is comparative with the old Way, we should examine the Price of weeding the sown Corn, which by the best Information I can get, was in the Year 1735. about 4s. per Acre for Weeding of Barley; and of Wheat, round about where I live, about 6s. and in Wiltshire, 15s. per Acre for their Wheat, amongst which much Damage is done by the Weeder’s Feet, and yet some Weeds are left.

[232]This might be sufficient if the land was thoroughly cleared the year before, and considering that in several years, there’s no need for weeding at all. And since this calculation is a comparison to the old method, we should look at the cost of weeding the planted crops. According to the best information I have, in 1735, it was about 4s. per acre for weeding barley, and around 6s. for wheat where I live, while in Wiltshire, it was 15s. per acre for their wheat, with a lot of damage caused by the weeder’s feet, and still some weeds left behind.

For a Boy or a Woman to follow the Hoe-plough, to uncover the young Wheat, when any Clods of Earth happen to fall on it, for which Trouble there is seldom necessary above once[233] to a Crop, Two-pence an Acre. One Peny is too much for Brine and Lime for an Acre.

For a boy or a woman to use the hoe to uncover the young wheat when clumps of dirt fall on it, it usually only needs to be done about once per crop, costing two pence an acre. One penny is too much for salt and lime for an acre.

[233]But this Expence being so small, ’tis better that a Person should follow at every Hoeing, where we suspect, that any Damage may happen from any Earth’s falling on, or pressing too hard against some of the Plants.

[233]But since this cost is so minimal, it's better for someone to be present during every hoeing when we suspect that any damage might occur from soil falling on or pressing too hard against some of the plants.

Reaping this Wheat is not worth above half as much as the Reaping of a sown Crop of equal Value; because the drill’d standing upon about a Sixth Part of the Ground, a Reaper may cut almost as much of the Row at one Stroke, as he could at Six, if the same stood dispersed all over the Ground, as the sowed does; and because he who reaps sowed Wheat,[260] must reap the Weeds along with the Wheat; but the drilled has no Weeds; and besides, there go a greater Quantity of Straw, and more Sheaves, to a Bushel of the sowed, than of the drilled[234]. And since some Hundred Acres of drilled Wheat have been reaped at Two Shillings and Six-pence per Acre, I will count that to be the Price.

Reaping this wheat isn't worth more than half as much as harvesting a sown crop of equal value; because the drilled plants take up only about one-sixth of the ground, a reaper can cut almost as much of the row in one stroke as he would in six if the plants were scattered across the land like the sown ones. Plus, when reaping sown wheat, he has to deal with the weeds along with the wheat; but the drilled wheat has no weeds. Also, a greater amount of straw and more sheaves go into a bushel of sown wheat than of drilled wheat. And since several hundred acres of drilled wheat have been harvested at two shillings and six pence per acre, I’ll take that as the price.

[234]One Sheaf of the latter will yield more Wheat than Two of the former of equal Diameter.

[234]One bundle of the latter will produce more wheat than two of the former with the same diameter.

The whole Expence of an Acre of drilled Wheat.

The total cost of an acre of drilled wheat.

  l. s. d.
For Seed 00 02 03
For Tillage 00 04 00
For Drilling 00 00 06
For Weeding 00 00 06
For Uncovering 00 00 02
For Brine and Lime 00 00 01
For Reaping 00 02 06
Total 00 10 00
The Expence of an Acre of sowed Wheat is 04 00 00
To which must be added, for the Year’s Rent of the Fallow 00 10 00
Total 04 10 00

If I have reckoned the Expence of the drilled at the lowest Price, to bring it to an even Sum; I have also abated in the other more than the whole Expence of the drilled amounts unto.

If I've calculated the cost of the drilling at the lowest price to reach a rounded figure, I've also deducted in the other more than the total cost of the drilling amounts to.

And thus the Expence of a drilled Crop of Wheat is but the Ninth Part of the Expence of a Crop sown in the common Manner.

And so, the cost of a drilled crop of wheat is only a ninth of the cost of a crop sown in the usual way.

’Tis also some Advantage, that less Stock is required where no Store-sheep are used.

It’s also an advantage that less stock is needed when no store sheep are used.

[261]

[261]

II. Of the different Goodness of a Crop.

The Goodness of a Crop consists in the Quality of it, as well as the Quantity; and Wheat being the most useful Grain, a Crop of this is better than a Crop of any other Corn, and the ho’d Wheat has larger Ears (and a fuller Body) than sow’d Wheat. We can have more of it, because the same Land will produce it every Year, and even Land, which, by the Old Husbandry, would not be made to bear Wheat at all: So that, in many Places, the New Husbandry can raise Ten Acres of Wheat for One that the Old can do: because where Land is poor, they sow but a Tenth Part of it with Wheat.

The quality and quantity of a crop define its goodness. Since wheat is the most useful grain, a wheat crop is superior to any other type of corn, and land that grows wheat has larger ears and a fuller yield compared to sowed wheat. We can harvest more of it because the same land can produce it every year, even land that, under the old farming methods, couldn't grow wheat at all. As a result, in many areas, modern farming can yield ten acres of wheat for every one acre that traditional methods can produce, especially where the soil is poor, since they only plant a tenth of it with wheat.

We do not pretend, that we have always greater Crops, or so great as some sown Crops are, especially if those mention’d by Mr. Houghton be not mistaken.

We’re not claiming that we always have bigger harvests, or that ours are as big as some of the sown crops, especially if those mentioned by Mr. Houghton are correct.

The greatest Produce I ever had from a single Yard in Length of a double Row, was Eighteen Ounces: The Partition of this being Six Inches, and the Interval Thirty Inches, was, by Computation, Ten Quarters (or Eighty Bushels) to an Acre.

The best yield I ever got from a single yard of a double row was eighteen ounces. With a six-inch partition and a thirty-inch space between rows, that comes out to ten quarters (or eighty bushels) per acre.

I had also Twenty Ounces to a like Yard of a Third successive Crop of Wheat; but this being a treble Row, and the Partitions and Interval being wider, and supposed to be in all Six Feet, was computed to Six Quarters to an Acre. And if these Rows had been better order’d than they were, and the Earth richer, and more pulveriz’d, more Stalks would have tillered out, and more Ears would have attained their full Size, and have equall’d the best, which must have made a much greater Crop than either of these were.

I also had twenty ounces in a similar yard of a third consecutive crop of wheat; but since this was a triple row, and the partitions and gaps were wider—supposed to be a total of six feet—it was estimated to yield six quarters per acre. If these rows had been better organized, and the soil richer and more broken up, there would have been more stalks sprouting, and more ears reaching their full size, matching the best, which would have resulted in a much larger crop than either of these.

But to compare the different Profit, we may proceed thus: The Rent and Expence of a drill’d Acre being One Pound, and of a sow’d Acre Five Pounds; One Quarter of Corn, produced by the drill’d, bears an equal Proportion in Profit to the One Pound, as Five Quarters, produced by the other, do to the Five[262] Pounds. As suppose it be of Wheat, at Two Shillings and Six-pence a Bushel, there is neither Gain nor Loss in the one nor the other Acre, though the former yield but One Quarter, and the other Five; but if the drill’d Acre yield Two Quarters, and the sow’d Acre Four Quarters at the same Price, the drill’d brings the Farmer One Pound clear Profit, and the sown, by its Four Quarters, brings the other One Pound Loss. Likewise suppose the drilling Farmer to have his Five Pounds laid out on Five Acres of Wheat, and the other to have his Five Pounds laid put on One dung’d Acre; then let the Wheat they produce be at what Price it will, if the Five Acres have an equal Crop to the one Acre, the Gain or Loss must be equal: But when Wheat is cheap, as we say it is when sold at Two and Six-pence a Bushel, then if the Farmer, who follows the old Method, has Five Quarters on his Acre, he must sell it all to pay his Rent and Expence; but the other having Five Quarters on each of his Five Acres, the Crop of One of them will pay the Rent and Expence of all his Five Acres[235], and he may keep the remaining Twenty Quarters, till he can sell them at Five Shillings a Bushel, which amounts to Forty Pounds, wherewith he may be able to buy Four of his Five Acres at Twenty Years Purchase, out of One Year’s Crop, whilst the Farmer who pursues the old Method, must be content to have only his Labour for his Travel; or if he pretends to keep his Wheat till he sells it at Five Shillings a Bushel, he commonly runs in Debt to his Neighbours, and in Arrear of his Rent; and if the Markets do not rise in time, or if his Crops[263] fail in the Interim, his Landlord seizes on his Stock, and then he knows not how it may be sold; Actions are brought against him; the Bailiffs and Attorneys pull him to Pieces; and then he is undone[236].

But to compare the different profits, we can proceed like this: The rent and expenses of a drilled acre are one pound, while those of a sown acre are five pounds. One quarter of corn produced by the drilled acre earns a profit proportionate to one pound, just as five quarters produced by the sown acre are proportionate to five pounds. Suppose it’s wheat at two shillings and sixpence a bushel—there is neither gain nor loss on either acre, even though one yields just one quarter and the other five. However, if the drilled acre yields two quarters and the sown acre four quarters at the same price, the drilled acre brings the farmer one pound in profit, while the sown acre results in a loss of one pound. Now, let’s say the drilling farmer spends his five pounds on five acres of wheat, and the other farmer spends his five pounds on one dunged acre. Regardless of the selling price of the wheat they produce, if the five acres yield the same amount as the one acre, the gain or loss must be the same. But when wheat is cheap, as we say when it’s sold at two shillings and sixpence a bushel, if the farmer using the old method has five quarters from his acre, he must sell all of it to cover his rent and expenses. Meanwhile, the other farmer, with five quarters from each of his five acres, will find that the crop from just one of those acres covers the rent and expenses for all five acres, and he can keep the remaining twenty quarters until he can sell them at five shillings a bushel. That would total forty pounds, allowing him to buy four of his five acres at twenty years’ purchase, using just one year’s crop. In contrast, the farmer sticking to the old method is left with only his labor for his efforts. If he tries to hold onto his wheat until it sells for five shillings a bushel, he often ends up in debt to his neighbors and behind on his rent. If the market doesn't improve in time or if his crops fail, his landlord can seize his stock, leaving him uncertain about what will happen next; legal actions get taken against him, bailiffs and attorneys come after him, and he ends up in ruin.

[235]Or suppose a drill’d Acre to produce no more than One Third of the sow’d Acre’s Crop, whose Expence is Five times as much as of the drill’d, ’tis much more profitable, because a Third of Five Pounds is One Pound Thirteen and Four-pence; and a Fifth of the Rent and Expence being only One Pound, such drill’d Acre pays the Owner Thirteen and Four-pence more Profit, than the other which brings a Crop treble to the drill’d.

[235]Or imagine a drilled acre yielding no more than one-third of the crop from an sown acre, which costs five times as much to cultivate. It's actually more profitable, because a third of five pounds is one pound thirteen shillings and four pence; and with the rent and expense being just one pound, the drilled acre brings the owner thirteen shillings and four pence more profit than the one that produces three times the amount of the drilled acre.

[236]Tho’ only Five Acres and one Acre be put, yet we may imagine them Two hundred and Fifty, and Fifty to enrich the one, or break the other Farmer.

[236]Even if it’s just five acres and one acre involved, we can imagine them as two hundred and fifty, and fifty can either benefit one farmer or ruin the other.

III. The Certainty of a Crop.

The Certainty of a Crop is much to be regarded; it being better to be secure of a moderate Crop, than to have but a mere Hazard of a great one. The Farmer who adheres to the old Method is often deceiv’d in his Expectation, when his Crop at coming into Ear is very big, as well as when ’tis in Danger of being too little. Our hoeing Farmer is much less liable to the Hazard of either of those Extremes; for when his Wheat is big, ’tis not apt to lodge or fall down, which Accident is usually the utter Ruin of the other; he is free from the Causes which make the contrary Crop too little.

The certainty of a harvest is really important; it’s better to be sure of a decent yield than to risk everything on a large one. Farmers who stick to traditional methods often end up disappointed when their crops look promising but then don't produce as expected, just like when they don’t yield enough. Our methodical farmer faces much less risk from either extreme; when his wheat grows large, it doesn’t usually collapse, which often completely ruins the other crops. He avoids the issues that lead to a poor harvest.

A very effectual Means to prevent the failing of a Crop of Wheat, is to plow the pulveriz’d Earth for Seed early, and when ’tis dry. The early Season also is more likely to be dry than the latter Season is.

A very effective way to prevent a wheat crop from failing is to plow the prepared soil for seed early and when it's dry. The early season is also more likely to be dry than the later season.

1. The Advocate for the old Method is commonly late in his sowing; because he can’t fallow his Ground early, for fear of killing the Couch, and other Grass that maintains his folding Sheep, which are so necessary to his Husbandry: 2. And when ’tis sow’d late, it must not be sow’d dry, for then the Winter might kill the young Wheat. 3. Neither can he at that time plow dry, and sow wet, because he commonly sows under Furrow; that is, sows the Seed first, and plows it in as fast as ’tis sown. If he sows early (as he may if he will) in light Land, he must not sow dry, for 4. fear the Poppies and other Weeds should grow, and devour his Crop; and if his Land be strong, 5. let it be sown early, wet or dry (tho’[264] wet is worst), ’tis apt to grow so stale and hard by Spring, that his Crop is in Danger of starving, unless the Land be very rich, or much dung’d: and then the Winter and Spring proving kind, it may not be in less Danger of being so big as to fall down, and be spoil’d. 6. Another thing is, that though he had no other Impediment against plowing dry, and sowing wet, ’tis seldom that he has time to do it in; for he must plow all his Ground, which is Eight Furrows in Six Feet; and, whilst it is wet, must lie still with his Plough. 7. When he sows under Furrow, he fears to plow, deep, lest he bury too much of his Seed; 8. and if he plows shallow, his Crop loses the Benefit of deep plowing, which is very great. When he sows upon Furrow (that is after ’tis plowed) he must harrow the Ground level to cover the Seed; 9. and that exposes the Wheat the more to the cold Winds, and suffers the Snow to be blown off it, and the Water to lie longer on it; all which are great Injuries to it.

1. The supporter of the old method usually sows late because he can't prepare his land early without risking damage to the Couch and other grasses that are essential for his sheep, which are vital for his farming. 2. When he does sow late, he can't do it when the soil is dry, as the winter might kill the young wheat. 3. He also can't plow the ground dry and sow it wet, since he typically sows under furrow; that is, he plants the seeds first and plows them in immediately as he sows. If he sows early (which he can if he wants) in light soil, he must not sow dry, for 4. he fears that poppies and other weeds will take over and ruin his crop. If his land is strong, 5. it can be sown early, whether wet or dry (though wet is worse), but it can become so stale and hard by spring that his crop risks starving unless the land is very rich or heavily fertilized. Even then, if winter and spring are mild, there’s a risk of the crop becoming so large that it falls over and gets spoiled. 6. Another issue is that even if he faced no other obstacles to plowing dry and sowing wet, he rarely has the time to do so; he must plow all of his ground, which is eight furrows in six feet, and while it’s wet, he has to leave his plow still. 7. When he sows under furrow, he worries about plowing too deep and burying too much of his seed; 8. if he plows too shallow, his crop misses out on the significant benefits of deep plowing. When he sows on furrow (that is, after it’s plowed), he has to level the ground with a harrow to cover the seed; 9. this exposes the wheat more to cold winds and allows the snow to be blown off and the water to linger on it, all of which are detrimental to it.

Our Hoeing Husbandry is different in all of the fore-mentioned Particulars.

Our hoe-based farming is different in all of the mentioned aspects.

1. We can plow the Two Furrows whereon the next Crop is to stand, immediately after the present Crop is off.

1. We can till the Two Furrows where the next Crop will be planted, right after the current Crop is removed.

2. We have no Use of the Fold; because our Ground has annually a Crop growing on it, and it must lie still a Year, if we would fold it, and that Crop would be lost; and all the Good the Fold could do to the Land, would be only to help to pulverize it for one single Crop; its Benefit not lasting to the Second Year. And so we should be certain of losing one Crop for the very uncertain Hopes of procuring one the ensuing Year by the Fold; when ’tis manifest by the adjoining Crops, that we can have a much better Crop every Year, without a Fold, or any other Manure.

2. We can't use the fold because our land grows a crop every year, and it would have to rest for a year if we wanted to fold it, resulting in a loss of that crop. The only advantage the fold would provide is to help break up the soil for just one crop, and that benefit wouldn’t carry over to the second year. So, we would definitely lose one crop for the uncertain promise of gaining one the following year through folding. It's clear from the neighboring crops that we can get a much better yield every year without folding or any other fertilizer.

3. We can plow dry, and drill wet, without any manner of Inconvenience.

3. We can plow when it's dry and drill when it's wet, without any trouble at all.

[265]

[265]

4. He fears the Weeds will grow, and destroy his Crop: We hope they will grow, to the end we may destroy them[237].

4. He worries that the weeds will grow and ruin his crop: We hope they grow, so we can get rid of them[237].

[237]For, before they grow, they cannot be killed; but if they are all killed as soon as they appear, there will be no Danger of their exhausting the Land, or re-stocking it with their Seed; and ’tis our Fault if we drill more than we can keep clean from Weeds by the Horse-hoe, Hand-hoe, and Hands; the First for the Intervals, the Second for the Partitions, and the Third for the Rows: By the Two former, as soon after they appear as they can; but by the last, when they are grown high enough to be conveniently taken hold of.

[237]Before they grow, they can't be killed; but if we eliminate them as soon as they show up, there won't be a risk of them depleting the land or spreading their seeds. It's our responsibility if we plant more than we can manage to keep weed-free with the horse hoe, hand hoe, and our hands—the first for the spaces in between, the second for the divisions, and the third for the rows: with the first two, we should act as soon as they appear, but with the last, we should wait until they're tall enough to grab easily.

5. We do not fear to plant our Wheat early (so that we plow dry), because we can help the Hardness or Staleness of the Land by Hoeing.

5. We aren't afraid to plant our wheat early (even when the ground is dry) because we can improve the roughness or toughness of the soil by hoeing.

6. The Two Furrows of every Ridge whereon the Rows are to be drilled, we plow dry; and if the Weather prove wet before these are all finished, we can plow the other Two Furrows up to them, until it be dry enough to return to our plowing the first Two Furrows; and after finishing them, let the Weather be wet or dry, we can plow the last Two Furrows. We can plow our Two Furrows in the Fourth Part of the Time they can plow their Eight, which they must plow dry all of them, in every Six Feet; for they cannot plow part dry, and the rest when ’tis wet, as we can.

6. We plow the two dry furrows on each ridge where the rows will be drilled. If it rains before we finish these, we can plow the other two furrows up to them until it's dry enough to go back and finish the first two. After completing those, regardless of whether it's wet or dry, we can plow the last two furrows. We can plow our two furrows in a quarter of the time it takes them to plow their eight, which they have to do all dry every six feet; they can't plow part dry and the rest when it's wet like we can.

7. We never plant our Seed under Furrow, but place it just at the Depth which we judge most proper; and that is pretty shallow, about Two Inches deep; and then there is no Danger of burying it.

7. We never plant our seed in a furrow but place it at the depth we think is best; that is pretty shallow, about two inches deep; and this way, there's no risk of burying it.

8. We not only plow a deep Furrow, but also plow to the Depth of Two Furrows; that is, we trench-plow where the Land will allow it[238]; and we have the greatest Convenience imaginable for doing this, because there are Two of our Four Furrows[266] always lying open; and Two plowed Furrows (that is, one plowed under another) are as much more advantageous for the nourishing a Crop, as Two Bushels of Oats are better than one for nourishing an Horse: Or if the Staple of the Land be too thin or shallow, we can help it by raising the Ridges prepared for the Rows the higher above the Level.

8. We not only create a deep furrow, but we also dig down two furrows deep; that is, we trench-plow wherever the land allows it[238]; and we have the best setup imaginable for doing this because two of our four furrows[266] are always open; and having two plowed furrows (that is, one furrow plowed under another) is much better for nourishing a crop, just like two bushels of oats are better than one for feeding a horse. Or if the soil is too thin or shallow, we can improve it by raising the ridges for the rows higher above the level.

[238]Very little of my Land will admit the Plough to go the Depth of Two common Furrows without reaching the Chalk; But deep Land may be easily thus Trench-plowed with great Advantage; and even when there is only the Depth of a single Furrow, that may sometimes be advantageously plowed at twice.

[238]Very little of my land can let the plow go two normal furrows deep without hitting chalk; however, deep land can be easily trench-plowed with great benefits. Even when there’s just the depth of a single furrow, it can sometimes be beneficial to plow it twice.

9. We also raise an high Ridge in the Middle of each Interval above the Wheat before Winter, to protect it from the cold Winds, and to prevent the Snow from being driven away by them. And the Furrows or Trenches, from whence the Earth of these Ridges is taken, serve to drain off the Water from the Wheat, so that, being drier, it must be warmer than the harrowed Wheat, which has neither Furrows to keep it dry, nor Ridges to shelter it[239], as every Row of ours has on both Sides of it.

9. We also create a high ridge in the middle of each space above the wheat before winter to protect it from the cold winds and stop the snow from being blown away. The furrows or trenches, from where the earth for these ridges is taken, help drain water away from the wheat, so it stays drier and warmer than the harrowed wheat, which has neither furrows to keep it dry nor ridges for shelter, as every row we have has on both sides of it.[239]

[239]This is a Mistake; for the Ridges in the Middle of the Intervals do not always, nor often in thin shallow Land lie high enough to make a Shelter to the Rows, they being higher: But when Wheat is drilled on the Level, ’tis sheltered by the Ridges raised in the Intervals: But we never weed or hand-hoe Wheat before the Spring.

[239]This is a mistake; the ridges in the middle of the intervals don’t always, or often in shallow land, lie high enough to provide shelter for the rows, which are higher. However, when wheat is planted on the level, it is sheltered by the ridges raised in the intervals. But we never weed or hand-hoe wheat before spring.

IV. The Condition in which the Land is left after a Crop.

The different Condition the Land is left in after a Crop[240], by the one and the other Husbandry, is[267] not less considerable than the different Profit of the Crop.

The different state the land is left in after a crop[240], from one method of farming to another, is[267] just as significant as the different profit from the crop.

[240]If indifferent Land be well pulverized by the Plough for one whole Year, it will produce a good Crop: But then, if, instead of being sown, it be kept pulverized on for another Year without being exhausted by any Vegetables, it will acquire from the Atmosphere an extraordinary great Degree of Fertility more than it had before such Second Year’s Pulveration and Unexhaustion. This being granted, which no Man of Experience can deny, what Reason can there be why such a Number of Plants, competent for a profitable Crop, may not be maintained on it the Second Year, that may keep the Degree of their Exhaustion in Æquilibrio with that Degree of Fertility, which the same Land had acquired at the End of the First Year of its Pulveration, the same Degree of Pulveration being continued to it by Hoeing in the Second Year? Or why may it not produce annual Crops always, if the same Equilibrium be continually kept? Two unanswerable Reasons may be given why this Equilibrium cannot be kept in the random Sowing, as it may in the Hoeing Method; viz. First, In the former, the Land is by the Number of sown Plants and Weeds much more (we may suppose at least Five times more) exhausted: And, Secondly, No Pulveration is continued to the Soil, whilst the Crop is on it; which is that Part of the Year wherein is the most proper (if not the only proper) Season for pulverizing. Therefore, allowing, that, in the random way, a Soil cannot, for want of Quantity of vegetable Food, continue to produce annual Crops without Manure, or perhaps with it; yet that is no Reason why it may not produce them in the Hoeing Culture duly performed.

[240]If neglected land is thoroughly worked by plowing for an entire year, it will yield a good crop. However, if instead of being planted, the land remains worked for another year without being depleted by any crops, it will gain an incredible amount of fertility from the atmosphere, more than it had at the end of the first year's tilling. This is something that no experienced person can deny. So, what reason is there that a sufficient number of plants, suitable for a profitable harvest, cannot be grown on it in the second year, keeping their depletion in balance with the level of fertility the land gained at the end of the first year? If the same level of soil preparation is maintained through hoeing in the second year, why shouldn’t it be able to produce annual crops indefinitely, as long as that balance is kept? There are two strong reasons why this balance cannot be maintained with random sowing, unlike with hoeing: First, in the former method, the land is much more depleted due to the number of sown plants and weeds—at least five times more, we might estimate. Secondly, no soil preparation occurs while the crop is growing, which is the time of year most suitable (if not the only suitable time) for tilling. Therefore, even if the random method cannot continue to produce annual crops due to a lack of vegetable matter without fertilizer, or perhaps even with it, that doesn’t mean it can’t produce them effectively with proper hoeing.

A Piece of Eleven Acres of a poor, thin, chalky Hill was sown with Barley in the common Manner, after a hoed Crop of Wheat; and produced full Five Quarters and an half to each Acre (reckoning the Tythe); which was much more than any Land in all the Neighbourhood yielded the same Year; tho’ some of it be so rich, as that One Acre is worth Three Acres of this Land: And no Man living can remember, that ever this produced above half such a Crop before, even when the best of the common Management has been bestowed upon it.

A piece of eleven acres of a poor, thin, chalky hill was sown with barley in the usual way, after a planted crop of wheat, and produced a total of five and a half quarters per acre (including the tithe); which was much more than any land in the entire neighborhood yielded that year, even though some of it is so rich that one acre is worth three acres of this land. No one living can remember this land ever producing more than half such a crop before, even with the best usual care given to it.

A Field, that is a sort of an Heath-ground, used to bring such poor Crops of Corn, that heretofore the Parson carried away a whole Crop of Oats from it, believing it had been only his Tythe. The best Management that ever they did or could bestow upon it, was to let it rest Two or Three Years, and then fallow and dung it, and sow it with Wheat, next to that with Barley and Clover, and then let it rest again; but I cannot hear of any good Crop that it ever produced by this or any other of their Methods; ’twas still reckoned so poor, that nobody cared to rent it. They said Dung and Labour were thrown away upon it, then immediately after Two sown Crops of black Oats had been taken off it, the last of which was scarce worth the mowing, it was put into the[268] Hoeing Management; and when Three hoed Crops[241] had been taken from it, it was sown with Barley, and brought a very good Crop, much better than ever it was known to yield before; and then a good Crop of hoed Wheat succeeded the Barley, and then it was again sown with Barley, upon the Wheat-stubble; and that also was better than the Barley it used to produce.

A field that’s basically a type of heathland used to produce such poor crops of corn that in the past, the parson took an entire harvest of oats from it, thinking it was just his tithe. The best approach they ever tried was to let it rest for two or three years, then fallow it, fertilize it, and plant wheat, followed by barley and clover, then let it rest again. But I haven’t heard of any good crops coming from this or any other methods they used; it remained so poor that no one wanted to rent it. They claimed that fertilizing and labor were wasted on it. Then, right after two sowed crops of black oats had been harvested from it, the last of which was hardly worth cutting, it was put into hoeing management. After three hoed crops were taken off it, it was sown with barley, which yielded a really good crop, much better than it had ever produced before. Then a solid crop of hoed wheat followed the barley, and then it was again sown with barley on the wheat stubble, which also turned out better than the barley it used to produce.

[241]These Three hoed Crops were of Turneps and Potatoes.

[241]These three cultivated crops were turnips and potatoes.

Now all the Farmers of the Neighbourhood affirm, that it is impossible but that this must be very rich Ground, because they have seen it produce Six Crops in Six Years, without Dung or Fallow, and never one of them fail. But, alas! this different Reputation they give to the Land, does not at all belong to it, but to the different Sorts of Husbandry; for the Nature of it cannot be altered but by that, the Crops being all carried off it, and nothing added to supply the Substance those Crops take from it, except (what Mr. Evelyn calls) the celestial Influences; and that these are received by the Earth, in proportion to the Degrees of its Pulveration.

Now all the local farmers agree that this ground must be very rich, since they've seen it produce six crops in six years without any manure or fallow periods, and none of those crops have failed. But unfortunately, the different reputation they give to the land doesn’t actually belong to it; it’s about the various types of farming practices. The land's nature can't change unless those practices do, since all the crops remove nutrients from the soil, and nothing is added to replace what those crops take out, except what Mr. Evelyn refers to as celestial influences. And these influences are taken in by the earth based on how finely it's broken down.

A Field was drilled with Barley after an hoed Crop; and another adjoining to it on the same Side of the same poor Hill, and exactly the same Sort of Land, was drilled with Barley also, Part of it after the sown Crop, the same Day with the other; there was only this Difference in the Soil, that the former of these had no manner of Compost on it for many Years before, and the latter was dunged the Year before: Yet its Crop was not near so good as that which followed the hoed Crop[242]; tho’ the latter had twice the Plowing that the former had before drilling, and the same Hoeings afterwards; viz. Each was hoed Three times.

A field was planted with barley after a hoed crop, and another field next to it on the same side of the same poor hill, with exactly the same type of land, was also planted with barley. Part of it followed a sown crop, planted on the same day as the other. The only difference in the soil was that the first field hadn't received any compost for many years, while the second had been fertilized the year before. Still, its yield wasn’t nearly as good as that which came after the hoed crop; even though the latter had twice the plowing before planting and the same amount of hoeing afterward—specifically, each was hoed three times.

[242]This was a Wheat Crop, and often well hoed.

[242]This was a wheat crop, and it was often well tended.

A Field of about Seventeen Acres was Summer-fallowed, and drilled with Wheat; and with the Hoeing brought a very good Crop (except Part of it,[269] which being eaten by trespassing Sheep in the Winter, was somewhat blighted); the Michaelmas after that was taken off, the same Field was drilled again with Wheat, upon the Stubble of the former, and hoed: This Second Crop was a good one, scarce any in the Neighbourhood better. A Piece of Wheat adjoining to it, on the very same Sort of Land (except that this latter was always reckoned better, being thicker in Mould above the Chalk), sown at the same time on dunged Fallows, and the Ground always dunged once in Three Years; yet this Crop failed so much, as to be judged, by some Farmers, not to exceed the Tythe of the other: That the hoed Field has received no Dung or Manure for many Years past, is because it lies out of the Reach for carrying of Cart-Dung, and no Fold being kept on my Farm: But I cannot say, I think there was quite so much Odds betwixt this Second undunged hoed Crop and the sown; yet this is certain, that the former is a good, and the latter a very bad Crop.

A field of about seventeen acres was summer-fallowed and planted with wheat, which yielded a very good harvest, except for part of it, which was damaged by sheep that trespassed during the winter. The following Michaelmas, the same field was planted again with wheat on the stubble from the previous crop and hoed. This second crop was also good, barely any in the neighborhood was better. A piece of wheat next to it, on the exact same type of land (except this one was always considered better because it had more topsoil above the chalk), was sown at the same time on fertilized fallows, and the ground was fertilized every three years. However, this crop failed so much that some farmers judged it to be not better than the tithe of the other. The hoed field hasn't received any dung or manure for many years because it’s too far to haul cart dung, and no fold has been kept on my farm. But I can't say I think there was such a big difference between this second hoed crop without fertilizer and the sown crop; yet it’s true that the former is good, and the latter is very poor.

I could give many more Instances of the same Kind, where hoed Crops and sown Crops have succeeded better after hoed Crops than after sown Crops, and never yet have seen the contrary; and therefore am convinced, that the Hoeing[243] (if it be duly performed) enriches the Soil more than Dung and Fallows, and leaves the Land in a much better Condition for a succeeding Crop. The Reason I take to be very[270] obvious: The artificial Pasture of Plants is made and increased by Pulveration only; and nothing else there is in our Power to enrich our Ground, but to pulverize it[244], and keep it from being exhausted by Vegetables[245].[271] Superinductions of Earth are an Addition of more Ground, or changing it, and are more properly purchasing than cultivating.

I could share many more examples of the same kind, where crops that were hoed and sown have performed better after being hoed than after being sown, and I have never seen the opposite. Therefore, I believe that hoeing[243] (if done properly) enriches the soil more than manure and fallow periods, leaving the land in much better condition for the next crop. The reason seems quite[270] clear: artificial pasture for plants is created and enhanced through pulverization alone; and the only thing we can do to enrich our soil is to break it up[244] and prevent it from being depleted by plants[245].[271] Adding more soil is essentially just acquiring more land or altering it, which is more about purchasing than cultivating.

[243]This is more especially meant of Fallows in the common Husbandry, and a moderate Quantity of common Dung, or the Fold: And there may be such a poor Sand, or other barrenish Soil, so subject to Constipation in the Winter, as to require Dung when planted with Wheat, there being no general Rule without Exceptions; and ’tis impossible for me to know the Number of these Exceptions. Well it is for the Hoer, whose Land is of such a kind, that he can keep it in Heart without Dung by Hoeing; for when he has no Fold, he plows his Ground with Oxen, and plants it mostly with Wheat, the Straw whereof being for other Uses, he can make but very little Dung.

[243]This is especially true for fallow land in regular farming, along with a moderate amount of common manure or the use of grazing. There may be poor sandy or somewhat barren soil that becomes compacted in the winter, needing manure when planted with wheat, as there is no universal rule without exceptions; and it's impossible for me to know how many exceptions there are. It’s fortunate for the farmer whose land can be kept healthy without manure just by hoeing; because when he doesn't have grazing available, he plows his field with oxen and mostly plants it with wheat, where the straw is used for other purposes, so he produces very little manure.

[244]These Two are all we have in our Power; for pulverizing includes an Exposure to the Atmosphere; without which, I think, it cannot be reduced to Particles minute enough, or have their Superficies so impregnated as to become a fertile Pasture for Plants. The Experiment related by Mr. Evelyn of artificial Pulveration, seems to prove such an Exposure necessary; as also the frequent turning (or incessantly agitating) that fine Dust for a Year, before the barren exhausted Earth was made rich and prolific; For, besides the Benefit of Pulveration and Impregnation, Land is more enriched in proportion to the Time of Exposure, during which it is free from Exhaustion, and continually receiving from the Atmosphere: Therefore frequent Turning and Exposure are both contained in the Words pulverize, and not exhaust; and to comply with the latter, we should endeavour, that our Land may be never exhausted by any other Plants than by those we would propagate, and by no more of them neither, than what are necessary for producing a reasonable Crop; which, upon full Trial, will be found a very small Number in companion to those that are commonly sown; and then, if the Supply from the Atmosphere by Help of the Pulveration exceeds the Exhaustion, the Land will become richer, tho’ constant Crops are produced of the same Species; as in the Vineyards; and the Soil of these is so much improved by a bare competent Exhaustion, and the usual Pulveration, that after producing good annual Crops without Dung, until Age has killed the Vines, they leave the Soil better than they found it; and better than contiguous Land of the same Sort kept in arable Field-culture.

[244]These two are all we have in our power, because pulverizing requires exposure to the atmosphere; without it, I believe it can't be broken down into tiny particles or have its surface enriched enough to support plant growth. The experiment shared by Mr. Evelyn regarding artificial pulverization seems to show that such exposure is necessary, as well as the frequent turning (or constant agitation) of that fine dust for a year before the barren, depleted soil became rich and productive. In addition to the benefits of pulverization and enrichment, land becomes more fertile the longer it is exposed, during which time it is free from depletion and continuously absorbing from the atmosphere. Therefore, frequent turning and exposure are both included in the terms pulverize and not exhaust; to adhere to the latter, we should strive to ensure our land is never depleted by any plants other than those we intend to grow, and only as many as necessary for a reasonable crop. Upon thorough testing, this will be found to be a very small number compared to those typically sown. If the nutrients supplied by the atmosphere, aided by pulverization, exceed the depletion, the land will become richer, even if we continuously produce crops of the same kind, like in vineyards. The soil here improves so much from just enough depletion and the usual pulverization that, after yielding good annual crops without manure until the vines die of old age, it leaves the soil in better condition than it was found, and better than nearby land of the same type maintained under standard farming practices.

By Pulveration are meant all the Benefits of it that accrue to the Pasture of Plants; and by Exhaustion, all the Injuries that can be done to that Pasture, except Burning. And as the Benefits of Pulveration visibly continue for several Years, so do the Injuries of Exhaustion; which appear by the Ends of some of my Rows that have been cleansed of Weeds in their Partitions by the Hand-hoe, and the other Ends of the same Rows not cleansed; the Difference is visible in the Colour of the Wheat in the Third and Fourth following Crops, equally managed; and this is no more to be wondered at, than that Two unequal Sums, being equally increased or diminished, should remain unequal, until an Addition to the lesser, or a Subtraction from the greater, be made; which, in case of the Soil, must be either by a greater Pulveration, or a lesser Exhaustion. ’Tis by this that both Ends of these Rows in time become equal: For tho’ Ten Plants that produce an Ounce of Wheat, insume more Pabulum than one Plant that produces the same Quantity (the Reason for which is given in the Note on p. 121.); yet a Plant that produces Six or Seven Drams, insumes less than one that produces an Ounce; for a Plant which produces Six Drams of Wheat cannot be a poor one, and therefore insumes no more Pabulum than in proportion to its Augment and Product. Thus the Soil of those Ends, which, by being doubly exhausted by Weeds and Wheat plants, was made poorer, gradually recovers an Equality with the other Ends, by being for several Years less exhausted than the other Ends are by larger Plants, whilst the Number of Plants, and the Pulveration of each, are equal.

By pulverization, we refer to all the benefits it brings to the soil for plants, and by exhaustion, we mean all the harm that can be done to that soil, except for burning. Just as the benefits of pulverization clearly last for several years, so do the harms of exhaustion; this is evident from the ends of some of my rows that have been cleared of weeds by hand, compared to the other ends of the same rows that remain uncleared. The difference is noticeable in the color of the wheat in the third and fourth subsequent crops, even though both were managed the same way. This situation is no more surprising than that two unequal amounts, when increased or decreased equally, will still remain unequal until the smaller amount is increased or the larger amount is decreased. In the case of soil, this correction must come from either more pulverization or less exhaustion. Over time, this process equalizes both ends of the rows: Ten plants that yield an ounce of wheat consume more nutrients than one plant that produces the same amount (the reasoning for this is explained in the Note on p. 121.). However, a plant that yields six or seven drams consumes less than one that produces an ounce; a plant yielding six drams cannot be poor, thus it consumes nutrients proportionate to its growth and yield. Therefore, the soil at the ends that were doubly exhausted by weeds and wheat plants became poorer but gradually recovers to be equal to the other ends, since it has been less exhausted for several years compared to the ends with larger plants, while the number of plants and the level of pulverization for each remain equal.

To the Reasons already given there is another to be added, why Horse hoed Wheat exhausts the Soil less than sown Crops, where the Product of Wheat produced by each is equal: Which Reason is, that the former has much less Straw than the latter; as appears by the different Quantities of Grain that a Sheaf of each of equal Diameter yields; one of the former yielding generally double to one of the latter; for a Sheaf of the sown has not only more small Under-ears, but also its best Ears bear a less Proportion to their Straw than the other; for a Straw of sown Wheat Six Feet high, I have found to have an Ear but of half the Size of an Ear of drilled Wheat on a Stalk Five Feet high, having measured both of them standing in the Field, and rubbed out the Grain of them. This Difference I impute to the different Supply of Nourishment at the time when the Ears are forming.

To the reasons already mentioned, there's another one to add about why hoeing wheat exhausts the soil less than sown crops, assuming the wheat yield from both is equal. The reason is that the former produces much less straw than the latter; this is evident from the different amounts of grain that a sheaf of each type yields when they are the same diameter. Typically, a sheaf from hoeing yields about double that of a sown sheaf. The sown wheat not only has more small under-ears but also has its best ears making up a smaller proportion compared to its straw than the other type. For instance, I've found that a six-foot-high straw of sown wheat might have an ear that is just half the size of the ear from drilled wheat on a five-foot-high stalk. I've measured both while they were still standing in the field and separated the grain from them. I attribute this difference to the varying supply of nutrients when the ears are forming.

Thus the sown Crop exhausts a Soil much more by its greater Quantity of Straw.

Thus the planted crop depletes the soil much more due to its larger amount of straw.

And this is one Reason why annual Crops of sown Wheat cannot succeed as Crops of Horse hoed Wheat do. There must be Dung and Fallow to repair the Exhaustion of the sown; neither of which are necessary for Crops of the Horse-hoed.

And this is one reason why yearly crops of sown wheat can’t succeed like crops of horse-hoed wheat do. There needs to be manure and fallow land to recover the depletion from the sown crops; neither of which is needed for horse-hoed crops.

[245]It may be asked, How ’tis possible that Eight Hoeings, which are but equal, in Labour, to Two plain Plowings, should so much exceed Three plain Plowings, as to procure as good or a better Crop without Manure, than the common Three Plowings can do with Manure, and enrich the Land also.

[245]It might be questioned how it’s possible that Eight Hoeings, which are only equivalent in labor to Two plain Plowings, can significantly surpass Three plain Plowings by producing as good or even a better crop without fertilizer than what the usual Three Plowings can achieve with fertilizer, while also enriching the soil.

The Answer is, That each Hoeing of the Five or Six being done to the Wheat-plants, though it does not clean plow the whole Interval underneath, yet it changeth the whole external Superficies (or Surface) thereof, whereby it becomes impregnate by the nitrous Air, as much as if it were all clean plowed at the time of every Hoeing, and the Weeds are as much stifled, or suffocated.

The answer is that each time you hoe the wheat plants—whether it's five or six times—it may not completely plow the entire area underneath, but it does change the entire surface. This allows the soil to absorb nitrogen from the air, just as if it had been fully plowed every time you hoed it. It also effectively stifles or suffocates the weeds.

[272]

[272]

Their One Year’s Tillage, which is but Two Plowings before Seed-time, commonly makes but little Dust; and that which it does make, has but a short time to lie exposed for Impregnation; and after the Wheat is sown, the Land lies unmoved for near Twelve Months, all the while gradually losing its Pasture, by subsiding, and by being continually exhausted in feeding a treble Stock of Wheat-plants, and a Stock of Weeds, which are sometimes a greater Stock. This puts the Advocates for the old Method upon a Necessity of using of Dung, which is, at best, but a Succedaneum of the Hoe; for it depends chiefly on the Weather, and other Accidents, whether it may prove sufficient by Fermentation to pulverize in the Spring, or no: And it is a Question whether it will equal Two additional[246] Hoeings, or but one; tho’, as I have computed it, one Dunging costs the Price of One hundred Hoeings.

Their one year of tilling, which consists of just two plowings before planting, usually creates very little dust; and that dust only has a short time to settle for absorption. After the wheat is sown, the land remains undisturbed for nearly twelve months, gradually losing its grazing potential as it settles and gets continuously depleted while nurturing three times the number of wheat plants, along with a substantial amount of weeds, which sometimes outnumber the wheat. This forces advocates of the old method to rely on fertilizer, which is really just a substitute for the hoe; because its effectiveness primarily depends on the weather and other factors, it's uncertain whether it will be sufficient to break down in the spring. It raises the question of whether it can match the impact of two extra[246] hoeings, or just one; however, from my calculations, one application of fertilizer costs as much as one hundred hoeings.

[246]Additional, because there must first be several Hoeings to make our treble Row equal to an undunged Six-feet Ridge of sown Wheat.

[246]Also, because we need several Hoeings to make our triple Row equal to an undisturbed Six-foot Ridge of sown Wheat.

When they have done all they can, the Pasture they raise is generally too little for the Stock that is to be maintained upon it, and much the greatest Part of the Wheat-plants are starved; for from Twenty Gallons of Seed they sow on an Acre, they receive commonly no more than Twenty Bushels[247] of Wheat in their Crop, which is but an Increase of Eight Grains for one: Now, considering how many Grains there are in one good Ear, and how many Ears[273] on one Plant, we find, that there is not One Plant in Ten that lives till Harvest, even when there has not been Frost in the Winter sufficient to kill any of them; or if we count the Number of Plants that come up on a certain Measure of Ground, and count them again in the Spring, and likewise at Harvest, we shall be satisfied, that most or all of the Plants that are missing, could die by no other Accident than want of Nourishment.

When they've done everything they can, the pasture they create is usually not enough for the livestock that needs to survive on it, and most of the wheat plants end up starving. They typically sow twenty gallons of seed per acre but only harvest about twenty bushels of wheat, which is just a gain of eight grains for each one. Considering how many grains are in a good ear of wheat and how many ears are on each plant, we see that fewer than one in ten plants makes it to harvest, even when there hasn't been enough frost in winter to kill any of them. If we count the number of plants that sprout in a specific area of land and check again in spring and then at harvest time, we'll find that most, if not all, of the missing plants probably died from lack of nourishment.

[247]And they have oftener less than Sixteen Bushels; and in the Harvest 1735, a substantial experienced Farmer had no more than Four Bushels of Wheat to an Acre throughout a Field of Forty Acres, being robbed by Poppies; and I have known a Crop that has amounted to do more than Two Bushels to an Acre, and some Crops less, tho’ dunged and fallowed; so that, taking the common sown Crops of Wheat one with another, they are thought not to amount to Sixteen Bushels to an Acre, communibus annis.

[247]They often produce less than sixteen bushels, and during the harvest of 1735, a well-experienced farmer collected no more than four bushels of wheat per acre from a field of forty acres, due to being overrun by poppies. I've known a harvest that produced barely more than two bushels per acre, with some crops yielding even less, despite being fertilized and left fallow. Therefore, when averaging out the common wheat crops, they're generally believed not to exceed sixteen bushels per acre, communibus annis.

They are obliged to sow this great Quantity of Seed, to the end that the Wheat, by the great Number of Plants, may be the better able to contend with the Weeds; and yet, too often, at Harvest, we see a great Crop of Weeds, and very little Wheat among them. Therefore this Pasture, being insufficient to maintain the present Crop, without starving the greatest Part of its Plants, is likely to be less able to maintain a subsequent Crop, than that Pasture which is not so much exhausted.

They have to plant a large amount of seed so that the wheat, through a high number of plants, can better compete with the weeds. However, all too often at harvest, we see a lot of weeds and very little wheat among them. As a result, this pasture, being unable to support the current crop without starving most of its plants, is likely to be even less capable of supporting a future crop than a pasture that isn’t as depleted.

When their Crop of Wheat is much less than ours, their Vacancies, if computed all together, may be greater than those of our Partitions and Intervals; theirs, by being irregular, serve chiefly for the Protection of Weeds; for they cannot be plow’d out, without destroying the Corn, any more than Cannons firing at a Breach, whereon both Sides are contending, can kill Enemies, and not Friends.

When their wheat harvest is much smaller than ours, their gaps, when added up, might be larger than the gaps in our fields. Their irregular gaps mainly protect weeds because they can't be plowed out without damaging the crops, just like cannons firing at a breach where both sides are fighting can't hit enemies without also hitting friends.

Their Plants stand on the Ground in a confused manner, like a Rabble; ours like a disciplin’d Army: We make the most of our Ground; for we can, if we please, cleanse the Partitions with a Hand-hoe[248]; and for the rest, if the Soil be deep enough to be drill’d on the Level[249], in treble Rows, the Partitions[274] at Six Inches[250], the Intervals Five Feet; Five Parts in Six of the whole Field may be pulveriz’d every Year, and at proper times all round the Year.

Their plants are scattered on the ground in a chaotic way, like a mob; ours are arranged like a disciplined army: We make the most of our space; if we want, we can clear the rows with a hand hoe[248]; and if the soil is deep enough, we can plant in straight rows[249], with three rows, the spaces[274] six inches apart[250], and the intervals five feet; five out of six parts of the entire field can be tilled every year, and at the right times throughout the year.

[248]Of all annual Weeds.

__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__Of all yearly weeds.

[249]This is only put as a Supposition; for I have for these several Years left off drilling on the Level, and do advise against it; because altho’ Mould should not be wanting for the Partitions in deep rich Land, yet it is much more difficult to hoe on the Level than on Ridges.

[249]This is just a suggestion; I've stopped leveling for several years now, and I recommend against it. Even though there might be enough soil for the partitions in deep, rich land, it’s much harder to hoe on level ground than on ridges.

[250]But when it is drilled upon Ridges, the Proportion is less, by how much the Partitions, being thicker in Mould, contain more than a Sixth-part of the whole Six Feet of Earth, and the Proportion of unexhausted Earth will be alter’d likewise; and I only mention these Distances to avoid Fractions.

[250]But when it’s drilled on Ridges, the ratio is lower because the thicker partitions in the mold hold more than one-sixth of the total six feet of earth, which will also change the amount of unused earth; I mention these distances just to avoid fractions.

The Partitions being one Sixth-part for the Crop to stand on, and to be nourished in the Winter, one other Sixth-part being well pulveriz’d, may be sufficient to nourish it from thence till Harvest[251]; the Remainder, being Two-thirds of the Whole, may be kept unexhausted, the One-third for one Year, and the other Third of it Two Years; all kept open for the Reception of the Benefits descending from above, during so long a time; whilst the sowed Land is shut against them every Summer, except the little time in which it is fallow’d, once in Three Years, and a little, perhaps, whilst they plow it for Barley in the Winter, which is a Season seldom proper for pulverizing the Ground.

The fields are divided into six parts: one-sixth is for the crops to grow and be nourished during the winter, and another sixth, which is well-tilled, should be enough to nourish the crops until harvest. The remaining two-thirds can be left unused, with one-third resting for one year and the other third for two years. They should be open to receive benefits from above during this time, while the planted land is closed off every summer, except for a brief period when it's left fallow once every three years, and maybe a little time when it's being plowed for barley in the winter, which is not usually a good time for tilling the soil.

[251]This may be done, tho’ the Roots of a competent Number of Plants run through the Whole, in the manner herein before explained.

[251]This can be done, even though the roots of a sufficient number of plants run throughout, as explained before.

Their Land must have been exhausted as well by those supernumerary Plants of Wheat, while they lived, as by those that remain for the Crop, and by the Weeds. Our Land must be much less exhausted, when it has never above one Third-part of the Wheat-plants to nourish that they have, and generally no Weeds; so that our ho’d Land having much more vegetable Pasture made, and continually renewed, to so much a less Stock of Plants[252], must needs be[275] left, by every Crop, in a much better Condition than theirs is left in by any one of their sown Crops, altho’ our Crops of Corn at Harvest be better than theirs[253].

Their land must have become depleted by the extra wheat plants while they were alive, as well as by those that remain for the harvest and by the weeds. Our land must be much less depleted since it rarely supports more than a third of the wheat plants they have, and generally has no weeds; therefore, our tilled land, having much more vegetable growth that is continually renewed, with a significantly lower count of plants[252], must be[275] left in much better condition after each harvest than theirs is after any of their sown crops, even though our grain harvests are better than theirs[253].

[252]Therefore, whenever a Soil receives more Supplies of fine Earth from the Atmosphere, than is exhausted by all the Plants that grow in the Soil, it becomes richer; but if the contrary, then it becomes poorer.

[252]So, whenever soil gets more fine particles from the atmosphere than what the plants in that soil use up, it becomes richer. But if the opposite happens, it gets poorer.

[253]On an undung’d low Six feet Ridge, we have Three Rows, Eight Inches asunder, all which being equal, during the Winter, but each of the Two outside Rows at Harvest producing Ten times as much Wheat as the middle Row doth, all Three together produce a Quantity equal to One-and-twenty of this middle Row. Now, supposing the Roots of this Row not to reach through the outside Rows, so as to receive any Benefit from the ho’d Intervals, then this Row might only be equal to one of Nine Rows, which should have been drilled Eight Inches asunder on this Ridge, and then our Three would only be equal to Twenty-one of such Nine Rows. But since it can be demonstrated, that the Roots of our middle Row do pass through both the outside Rows far into the ho’d Intervals, we may well suppose it to be at least double to what it would have been, if it had no Benefit from the Hoeing, and then our Three will be equal to Forty-two of such Nine unho’d Rows. Thus our Crop is Thirty-three in Forty-two (or almost Four Parts in Five) increased by the Hoeing; for though many Fields of Wheat have been drilled all over in Rows Eight Inches asunder, it never has been judged, in Twenty Years Experience, that a Crop so planted, though not ho’d, was, by its Evenness and Regularity, less, cæteris paribus, than a Crop sown at random.

[253]On a low six-foot ridge, we have three rows, eight inches apart, all equal during winter. However, each of the two outer rows at harvest produces ten times as much wheat as the middle row. Together, all three produce an amount equal to twenty-one times the middle row. Now, if we assume the roots of the middle row don’t reach into the outside rows to benefit from the hoeing intervals, then this row might only equal one of nine rows that should have been planted eight inches apart on this ridge, meaning our three would only equal twenty-one of those nine rows. But since it can be shown that the roots of our middle row reach through both outside rows deep into the hoed intervals, we can assume it is at least double what it would have been without the benefit of hoeing, making our three equal to forty-two of those nine unhoed rows. Thus, our crop is thirty-three out of forty-two (or almost four parts out of five) increased by hoeing; although many fields of wheat have been planted in rows eight inches apart, it has never been deemed, in twenty years of experience, that a crop planted this way, though unhoed, was, for the sake of evenness and regularity, less than a crop sown randomly, cæteris paribus.

They object against us, saying, That sometimes the Hoeing makes Wheat too strong and gross, whereby it becomes the more liable to the Blacks (or Blight of Insects): But this is the Fault of the Hoer; for he may choose whether he will make it too strong, because he may apply his Hoeings at proper times only, and apportion the Nourishment to the Number and Bulk of his Plants. However, by this Objection they allow, that the Hoe can give Nourishment enough, and therefore they cannot maintain, that there is a Necessity of Dung[254] in the Hoeing-Husbandry;[276] and that, if our Crops of Wheat should happen to suffer, by being too strong, our Loss will be less than theirs, when that is too strong, since it will cost them Nine times our Expence to make it so.

They argue against us, saying that sometimes hoeing makes wheat too robust and coarse, making it more susceptible to pests (or blight): But this is the hoer's fault; they can choose whether to make it too strong because they can hoe at the right times and adjust the nourishment based on the number and size of their plants. However, by raising this objection, they admit that the hoe can provide enough nourishment, so they can’t argue that there’s a need for manure in hoeing agriculture; and if our wheat crops happen to suffer from being too strong, our losses will be smaller than theirs when their crops are too strong, since it costs them nine times our expense to get it to that point. [254] [276]

[254]As for the Quantity of vegetable Matter of Dung, when reduced to Earth by Putrefaction, it is very inconsiderable, and, of many sorts of Manure, next to nothing.

[254]When it comes to the amount of plant material in dung, after it breaks down into soil through decay, it really isn't much, and compared to many types of fertilizer, it's almost negligible.

The almost only Use of all Manure is the same as of Tillage; viz. the Pulveration it makes by Fermentation, as Tillage doth by Attrition or Contusion; and with these Differences, that Dung, which is the most common Manure, is apt to increase Weeds, a Tillage (of which Hoeing is chief) destroys them, and Manure is scanty in most Places, but Tillage may be had every-where. Another Difference is, the vast Disproportion of the Price of Manure and that of Tillage.

The primary use of all manure is similar to that of tillage; that is, it breaks down through fermentation, just as tillage does through grinding or crushing. There are some differences: manure, especially dung, which is the most common type, tends to encourage weeds, while tillage, particularly hoeing, gets rid of them. Additionally, manure is often scarce in many areas, but tillage is accessible almost everywhere. Another difference is the significant gap between the price of manure and the price of tillage.

Note, As we have no way to enrich the Soil, but by Pulveration of Manure, or of Instruments, or of both; so Nature has ordain’d, that the Soil shall be exhausted by nothing, but by the Roots of Plants.

Note: Since we can only improve the soil by breaking down manure, using tools, or both; Nature has decided that the soil can only be depleted by the roots of plants.

A Second Objection is, That as Hoeing makes poor Land become rich enough to bear good Crops of Wheat for several Years successively, the same must needs make very good Land become too rich for Wheat. I answer, That if possibly it should so happen, there are Two Remedies to be used in such a Case; the one is to plant it with Beans, or some other Vegetables, which cannot be over-nourished, as Turneps, Carrots, Cabbages, and such-like, which are excellent Food for fatting of Cattle; or else they may make use of the other infallible Remedy, when that rich Land, by producing Crops every Year in the Hoeing-Husbandry, is grown too vigorous and resty, they may soon take down its Mettle, by sowing it a few Years in their old Husbandry, which will fill it again with a new Stock of Weeds, that will suck it out of Heart, and exhaust more of its Vigour, than the Dung[255], that helps to produce them, can restore.

A second objection is that while hoeing can make poor land rich enough to grow good wheat crops for several consecutive years, it could also make very good land too rich for wheat. I respond that if this were to happen, there are two solutions: one is to plant beans or other vegetables that can't be over-fertilized, like turnips, carrots, cabbages, and similar crops, which are great food for fattening cattle; or they can use another reliable method. If that rich land, after producing crops every year in hoeing agriculture, becomes too vigorous and hard to manage, they can easily reduce its vitality by returning to their old farming methods for a few years, which will refill it with a new batch of weeds that will deplete its strength more than the manure that helps grow them can replenish.

[255]Dung made of the Straw of sown Corn generally abounds with the Seed of Weeds.

[255]Manure made from the straw of harvested corn usually contains a lot of weed seeds.

There is a Third Objection, and that is, That the Benefit of some Ground is lost where the Hoe-plough turns at each End of the Lands: But this cannot be much, if any, Damage; because about Four Square[277] Perch to a Statute Acre is sufficient for this Purpose; and that, at the Rate of Ten Shillings Rent, comes to but Three-pence, tho’ this varies, according as the Piece is longer or shorter; and supposing the most to be Eight Perch, that is but Six-pence per Acre; and that is not lost neither; for whether it be of natural or artificial Grass, the Hoe-plough, in turning on it, will scratch it, and leave some Earth on it, which will enrich it so much, that it may be worth its Rent for Baiting of Horses or Oxen upon it. And besides, these Ends are commonly near Quick-hedges or Trees, which do so exhaust it, that when no Cattle come there to manure it, ’tis not worth the Labour of plowing it.

There’s a third objection, which is that the benefit of some land is lost when the hoe-plow turns at each end of the fields. But this isn't a big deal, if it’s a problem at all; about four square perches to a statute acre is enough for this purpose. At a rate of ten shillings rent, that amounts to only three pence, though this varies depending on whether the piece is longer or shorter. If we assume the most it could be is eight perches, that would be just six pence per acre; and that isn’t really lost either. Whether it has natural or artificial grass, the hoe-plow, when turning on it, will scratch it and leave some soil on it, which will enrich it enough that it could be worth its rent for feeding horses or oxen. Plus, these ends are usually near quick hedges or trees that exhaust the soil so much that when no cattle come to fertilize it, it’s not worth the trouble of plowing it.


CHAP. 18.
Of Plows.

By what means Ploughs and Tillage itself came at first to be invented is uncertain; therefore we are at Liberty to guess: And it seems most probable, that it was, like most other Inventions, found out by Accident, and that the first Tillers or Plowers of the Ground were Hogs: Men in those Days, having sufficient Leisure for Speculation, observ’d, that when any sort of Seed happen’d to fall on a Spot of Ground well routed up by the Swine (which Instinct had instructed to dig in Search of their Food), it grew and prospered much better than in the whole unbroken Turf. This Observation must naturally induce rational Creatures to the Contrivance of some Instrument, which might imitate, if not excel Brutes in this Operation of breaking and dividing the Surface of the Earth, in order to increase and better its Product.

By what means Ploughs and Tillage were first invented is unclear; therefore, we are free to speculate. It seems most likely that, like many other inventions, they were discovered by chance, and that the first people to cultivate the land were pigs. In those days, people had plenty of time to think, and they noticed that when any type of seed accidentally fell on ground that had been thoroughly dug up by pigs, who instinctively search for food, it grew and flourished much better than in untouched soil. This observation would naturally lead intelligent beings to come up with a tool that could imitate, if not surpass, the animals in this task of breaking and turning the soil to enhance its productivity.

[278]

[278]

That some such Accident gave Men the First Hints of original Agriculture, may be inferr’d from the very little (or no) Probability of its being invented originally upon Arguments which might convince the Understanding (by just Conclusions from Ideas of the Earth and Vegetation) of any reasonable Grounds to hope, that the Effect of increasing the Earth’s Produce should follow the Cause of Tillage; or, in other Words, why it should produce more when tilled than when untilled. Therefore it is very unlikely, that Men should begin to take Pains to till the Land without any Sort of Reason why they did it. And no such Reason could they have before the Invention, as they had afterwards: For when they accidentally saw that Effect follow that Cause, then they were well convinced it did so. But tho’ this Argument, viz. Tillage increases the Product of the Earth, because it does, has been sufficient to continue the Practice of Tillage ever since; yet it is impossible for the Inventors to have had this Argument before the Invention, in case it had been invented by Men, and not fortuitously discover’d.

That some sort of accident gave people the first hints of original agriculture can be inferred from the very little (or no) likelihood that it was invented based on arguments that would reasonably convince someone (through valid conclusions from ideas about the Earth and vegetation) that increasing the Earth's yield would result from tilling the land; or, in other words, why it should produce more when cultivated than when it is left alone. Therefore, it’s very unlikely that people would start putting in the effort to farm the land without any sort of reason for doing so. And they wouldn't have had such a reason before the invention, as they did afterward. When they accidentally noticed that the effect followed that cause, they became convinced it worked that way. But although this argument, i.e. tilling increases the Earth's production because it does, has been enough to keep farming going ever since, it’s impossible that the inventors had this argument before the invention, assuming it was invented by people and not discovered by chance.

Had there ever been extant any other or better Arguments, whereon this Practice, so useful to Mankind, was founded; sure, some of all the great and learned Authors, who have written on this Subject, would have mention’d them. Philosophers, Orators, and Poets, have treated of it in the same Theory by which it was first discover’d, and by no other; viz. Land produces more when tilled; and some seem to say, the more it is tilled, the more it produces. It does, because it does; not a Word of the Pasture of Plants, or any thing like it. So that all the antient Scriptores de re rusticâ have done, was only to keep that Theory in the same Degree of Perfection in which the first Discoverers received it.

Had there ever been any other or better arguments for this practice, which is so beneficial to humanity, surely some of the great and learned authors who have written on this topic would have mentioned them. Philosophers, speakers, and poets have all approached it using the same theory that first uncovered it, namely that land yields more when cultivated, and some even suggest that the more it is cultivated, the more it yields. It does yield more because it simply does; there's no mention of plant pastures or anything like that. Therefore, everything the ancient writers on agriculture did was merely to maintain that theory at the same level of perfection in which the original discoverers received it.

The bristled Animals broke up the Ground, because they used to find their Food there by digging;[279] Men till it, because they find Tillage procures them better Food than Acorns.

The bristled animals disturbed the ground because they used to find their food there by digging;[279] men farm it because they find that cultivating it provides them better food than acorns.

The Reasons are the same for one and the other.

The reasons are the same for both.

These Writers, asham’d to acknowlege so noble a Discovery to be owing to so mean a Foundation, make no mention of the true Teachers, but attribute the Invention to Ceres, a Goddess of their own makeing; she, as they pretend, first taught the Art of Tillage. With this Fable they were so well pleased, that they never attempted to improve that Art, lest they should derogate from the Divinity of Ceres, in supposing her Invention imperfect.

These writers, embarrassed to admit that such a great discovery came from such humble beginnings, don’t mention the true teachers but instead credit the invention to Ceres, a goddess of their own creation. They claim that she was the first to teach the art of farming. They were so satisfied with this story that they never tried to improve the art, fearing it would undermine the divinity of Ceres by implying her invention was flawed.

With what Instrument Men first tilled the Ground we don’t know exactly; but there may be Reasons to believe it was with the Spade, and probably a wooden one, and very rough.

With what tool people first farmed the land, we don’t know for sure; but there are reasons to think it was a spade, probably a wooden one, and quite rough.

For whilst People liv’d on Acorns, there was no need of the Smith; such Food required no Knives for eating it, nor was it worth while to make Swords to fight for it; and without Iron the Spade could not be well hewn, or shap’d; but if it had been such as it is at present, there never was any thing comparable to it, for the true Use of Tillage. Yet the Spade could not make that Expedition, which was necessary when Tillage became general in the Fields; and therefore in time the Spade came wholly to be appropriate to the most perfect Sort of Tillage in the Garden. Then the Plough supply’d the Place of the Spade in the Field; and tho’ it could not (such as it was) till the Land near so well, yet it could till ten times more of it, and with less human Labour.

While people survived on acorns, there was no need for blacksmiths; that kind of food didn’t require knives to eat, and it wasn’t worth making swords to fight for it. Without iron, the spade couldn’t be properly crafted, but if it were like it is today, nothing could compare to it for proper farming. Still, the spade couldn’t handle the demands of widespread farming in the fields, so over time it became mainly suited for the more refined type of farming found in gardens. The plow took the spade's place in the fields, and although it couldn't till the land as effectively, it could work on ten times more land with less human effort.

Why they did not improve the Plough, so that it might also till as well as the Spade, seems owing to their Primitive Theory, which gave no Mathematical Reason to shew wherein the true Method of Tillage did consist; viz. in dividing the Earth into many Parts, to increase its internal Superficies, which is the Pasture of Plants.

Why they didn’t improve the plow to be as effective as the spade seems to be due to their basic understanding, which didn’t offer any mathematical rationale to explain what the best method of farming really was; namely, dividing the soil into many sections to increase its internal surface area, which is what nourishes plants.

[280]

[280]

The Difference betwixt the Operation of the Spade, and that of the common Plough, is only this; that the former commonly divides the Soil into smaller Pieces, and goes deeper.

The difference between how a spade works and how a common plow works is simply this: the spade usually breaks the soil into smaller pieces and digs deeper.

How easy and natural it is to contrive a Plough that may equal the Spade, if not exceed it, in going deeper, and cutting the Soil into smaller Pieces, than the Spade commonly does, I leave to the Judgment of those who have seen the Four-coulter’d Plough.

How easy and natural it is to come up with a plow that can match, if not surpass, the spade in digging deeper and breaking up the soil into smaller pieces than the spade usually does, I leave to the judgment of those who have seen the four-coulter plow.

The Plough describ’d by Virgil had no Coulter; neither do I remember to have seen any Coulter in Italy, or the South of France; and, as I have been informed, the Ploughs in Greece, and all the East, are of much the same Fashion: Neither is it practicable to use a Coulter in such a Plough; because the Share does not cut the Bottom of the Furrow horizontally, but obliquely; in going one way, it turns off the Furrow to the right Hand; but in coming back, it turns it to the Left[256]. Therefore, if it had a Coulter, it must have been on the wrong Side every other Furrow: And besides, as the Handle (for it has but one) always holds the Plough towards one Side, with the Bottom of the Share towards the unplow’d Land, it would cause the Coulter to go much too low when it went on the Furrow-side, and it would not touch the Ground, when it went on the Land-side.

The plow described by Virgil didn't have a coulter; I also don't recall seeing any coulters in Italy or the south of France. From what I've been told, the plows in Greece and throughout the East are quite similar. Additionally, it's not possible to use a coulter with that kind of plow because the share doesn't cut the bottom of the furrow horizontally but at an angle; when plowing in one direction, it turns the furrow to the right, and when going back, it turns it to the left[256]. So, if it had a coulter, it would be on the wrong side for every other furrow. Also, since it has only one handle, it always angles the plow to one side, with the bottom of the share facing the unplowed land. This would make the coulter go much too deep when on the furrow side and not touch the ground when on the land side.

[256]Note, This Eastern Plough always goes forward, and returns back in the same Furrow, making only one Land of a whole Field: Though it turns its one Furrow towards the Right, and the other towards the Left of the Holder; yet every Furrow is turned towards the same Point of the Compass, as when we plow with a Turn-wrist Plough.

[256]Note: This Eastern plow always moves forward and comes back through the same furrow, creating just one strip across the entire field. Even though it directs one furrow to the right and the other to the left of the operator, every furrow is aimed at the same compass point, just like when we use a turning plow.

’Tis a great Mistake in those who say Virgil’s Plough had Two Earth-boards; for it had none at all; but the Share itself always going obliquely, served instead of an Earth-board; and the Two Ears, which were the Corners of a Piece of Wood lying under[281] the Share, did the Office of Ground-wrests: This Fashion continues to this Day in those Countries, and in Languedoc.

It’s a big mistake for those who say that Virgil’s plow had two earth-boards because it actually had none. The share itself always angled sideways, acting as a substitute for an earth-board, while the two ears, which were the corners of a piece of wood under the share, functioned as ground-wrests. This design is still used today in those countries and in Languedoc.

This sort of Plough performs tolerably when Ground is fine, and makes a shift to break up light Land; and I could never find any other Land there; I am sure none comparable to ours for Strength: And it would be next to impossible, to break up such as we in England call strong Land with it.

This kind of plow works okay when the soil is fine and manages to break up lighter land; but I could never find any other land there; I'm sure none compares to ours in strength. And it would be nearly impossible to break up what we in England refer to as strong land with it.

I do not find, that the Arable Lands about Rome are ever suffered to lie still long enough to come to a Turf; but I have observed in the low rich Lands in the Calabria’s, subject to the Invasions of the Turks, that there is Turf, and that these Ploughs go over the Land Two or Three times before the Turf of it is all broken, tho’ the Soil be a very mellow Sort of Garden-mould. Having no Coulters to cut it, they break and tear Turf into little Pieces. This was done in the Month of November; and had I not seen Men and Oxen at the Work, or had there been Oaks in the Place, I should rather have thought that Tillage performed by a Race of the first Teachers of it, in muzzling Acorns, than by Ploughs. However, the Mould being naturally very mellow, when the Turf is broken with shallow Plowing, they can plow deeper afterwards.

I don't think the farmland around Rome is ever left alone long enough to grow turf; however, I've noticed in the low, fertile lands of Calabria, which are vulnerable to Turkish invasions, that there is turf, and these fields are plowed two or three times before the turf is completely broken up, even though the soil is a very soft type of garden soil. Without coulters to cut it, they break and tear the turf into small pieces. This happened in November; and if I hadn't seen men and oxen doing the work, or if there had been oaks in the area, I would have thought this tillage was done by the first teachers of it, gathering acorns, rather than by plows. Still, since the soil is naturally soft, once the turf is broken with shallow plowing, they can plow deeper afterwards.

The English Ploughs are very different from the Eastern, as in general the Soil is.

The English plows are very different from the Eastern ones, just like the soil in general.

These, when well made, cut off the Furrow at the Bottom horizontally; and therefore, it being as thick on the Land-side as on the Furrow-side, the Plough cannot break it off from the whole Land, at such a Thickness (being Six times greater than the Eastern Ploughs have to break off), and must of Necessity have a Coulter to cut it off: By this means the Furrow is turned perfectly whole, and no Part of the Turf of it broken; and if it lie long without new turning, the Grass from the Edges will spread,[282] and form a new Turf (or Swerd) on the other Side, which was the Bottom of the Furrow before turning, but is now become the Surface of the Earth, and may soon become greener with Grass than before Plowing; and often the very Roots send up new Heads to help to stock the reversed Furrow, the former Heads being converted into Roots, so that it is doubly cloathed and braced on both Sides, or, as it were, kay’d together, firm and solid, almost as a Plank; it may be drawn from one Side of a Field to the other without breaking, and might possibly be made use of, instead of Virgil’s Crates Viminea, for harrowing or smoothing of fine-tilled Ground; but not without much Time, Labour, and Difficulty, can it be made such itself.

When well-made, these cut off the furrow at the bottom horizontally. Since it’s as thick on the land side as it is on the furrow side, the plow can’t break it off from the whole land at such a thickness (which is six times greater than what the Eastern plows need to break off) and it must have a coulter to cut it away. This way, the furrow is turned completely intact, with no part of the turf broken. If it sits for a while without being turned again, the grass from the edges will spread,[282] forming a new turf (or sward) on the other side, which used to be the bottom of the furrow but is now the surface of the earth. It may soon turn greener with grass than it was before plowing, and often the very roots will push up new shoots to help cover the reversed furrow, with the former shoots becoming roots. This results in a double layer, tightly bound on both sides, or, in a sense, layered together, firm and solid, almost like a plank. It can be moved from one side of a field to the other without breaking and could potentially be used instead of Virgil’s Crates Viminea for harrowing or smoothing fine-tilled ground; however, it requires a lot of time, labor, and effort to achieve this.

If you plow whole strong turfy Furrows cross-ways, as Virgil directs, and as it is too commonly practised, the Coulter cannot easily cut them, because, being loose underneath, they do not make a sufficient Resistance or Pressure against its Edge, but move before it, and so are apt to be drawn and driven up into Heaps, with their Surfaces lying all manner of Ways, and situate in all manner of Postures: So the Turf, which is not turned, continuing in the open Air, grows on, and with its vigorous Roots holds the Earth fast together, and will not suffer the necessary Division to be made, which would be, if the Turf were rotten, and which is the End of all Tillage, viz. to increase the Pasture of Plants.

If you plow deep, strong, grassy furrows sideways, as Virgil suggests and as is often done, the blade can’t easily cut through them because they are loose underneath. This makes them unable to push back against its edge, causing them to shift and get piled up in heaps, with their surfaces facing all kinds of directions and in various positions. Meanwhile, the turf that isn’t turned continues to grow in the open air, and its strong roots keep the soil firmly together, preventing the necessary separation that would happen if the turf were decayed. That separation is the goal of all farming, which is to enhance the growth of plants.

Next, some have vast heavy Drags, with great long Iron Tines in them; and tho’ these huge broken Pieces of Furrows, being looser than before, require keener Edges to cut them; yet these Drag-tines have no Edge at all, but are as blunt as the Furrows they should cut. These Drags draw them sometimes into larger Heaps, leaving the under Stratum bare betwixt them, only shaking off some of their Mould in tumbling them about, and scratching their Surfaces,[283] without reducing them to a moderate Fineness, until this ill-broken Land has, for above a Year, and sometimes longer, entertained Ploughs, Cattle, and Men, with a frequent laborious Exercise, for which they are obliged to the one Coulter.

Next, some have large, heavy drags with long iron tines. Although these big clumps of soil are looser than before and need sharper edges to break them up, these drag tines don’t have any edges at all; they’re as blunt as the soil they’re meant to cut. These drags sometimes pull the soil into larger piles, leaving the underlying layer exposed between them, only shaking off some of the dirt as they move and scratching their surfaces,[283] without breaking them down to a reasonable fineness. This poorly prepared land has, for over a year and sometimes even longer, dealt with plows, cattle, and people, all engaging in a tiresome routine, for which they can thank the single coulter.

If the Soil be shallow, it may be broken up with a narrow Furrow, which will the sooner be brought in Tilth; but if it be a deep Soil, the Furrows must be proportionably large, or else a Part of the good Mould must be left under unmoved, and so lost; for a narrow Furrow cannot be plowed deep, because the Plough will continually slip out from the hard Land toward the Right-hand, unless the rising Furrow be of sufficient Weight to press the Plough towards the Left, and keep it in its Work: The deeper you plow, the greater Weight is required to press it; so that the deeper your Land is, the worse (or into the larger Furrows) must it be broken up with one Coulter, insomuch that, if the Land be strong (as most deep Ground in England is), it is a Work of some Years to conquer it, after it has been rested. And often it happens, that the excessive Charge of this Tillage reduces the Profit of rich Land below that of poor.

If the soil is shallow, you can break it up with a narrow furrow, which will be ready for planting sooner. However, if the soil is deep, the furrows need to be larger; otherwise, part of the good soil will stay untouched and be wasted. A narrow furrow can’t be plowed deeply because the plow tends to slip out to the right on hard land, unless the rising furrow is heavy enough to push the plow to the left and keep it working. The deeper you plow, the more weight is needed to keep it down. So, the deeper the land, the larger the furrows need to be. In fact, if the land is strong (like most deep soil in England), it can take several years to manage it after it has rested. Often, the high cost of this type of farming can make the profits from rich land lower than those from poor land.

This gives an Opportunity to deceitful Servants, of imposing upon their ignorant Masters. They plow such deep Land with a small shallow Furrow, to the end the Turf and Furrows may be broken, and made fine the sooner; pretending they will plow it deeper the next time (which is called Stirring), which these Rogues know very well cannot be done, and intend no more than that the Plough coming the easier after the Horses, their Coats may shine the better; and tho’ there be no Crop at Harvest, they must have Four Meals a Day all the Year, and extravagant Wages at Michaelmas, or at any time of the Year, when they think fit to misbehave themselves.

This gives dishonest workers a chance to trick their clueless employers. They till the land superficially, planning to break up the soil faster, pretending they’ll plow deeper next time (which is called stirring), even though these con artists know that can’t actually happen. Their only goal is to make it easier for the plow to follow the horses so their coats look shinier. And even if there’s no harvest at the end of the season, they still expect four meals a day all year round and outrageous pay at Michaelmas or whenever they feel like slacking off.

[284]

[284]

This sort of Land must not be stirred, i. e. plowed the Second time in wet Weather; for that will cause the Grass and Weeds to multiply, besides the treading the Ground into hard Dabs, &c. And, in dry Weather, the Plough will never enter any deeper than it went the first time; the Resistance below being so much more than the Pressure above, the Plough will rise up continually; or, if it goes deep enough for the Weight of Earth to keep it down, another Inconvenience will follow, which is that mentioned by Columella, Page 47. Quod omnis humus, quamvis lætissima, tamen inferiorem partem jejuniorem habet, eamque attrahunt excitatæ majores glebæ; quo evenit, ut infœcundior materia mista pinguiori segetem minus uberem reddat. The vulgar English Phrase is, It spaults up from below the Staple. Hence the treacherous Plowman is secure of an easy Summer’s Work, if he can persuade his Master to suffer him to fallow the Ground with a shallow Furrow.

This type of land shouldn't be disturbed, meaning it shouldn't be plowed a second time in wet weather; doing so will lead to an increase in grass and weeds and will compact the soil into hard clumps, etc. In dry weather, the plow won't go any deeper than it did the first time because the resistance below is much greater than the pressure above, causing the plow to keep rising. Or, if it does go deep enough for the weight of the soil to hold it down, another problem will arise, which is mentioned by Columella, Page 47. "Every soil, no matter how rich, has a poorer lower layer, and larger clods pull the richer material down; as a result, the less fertile material mixed with the richer soil produces a less abundant crop." The common English expression is, it brings up the staple from below. Therefore, a crafty plowman can secure an easy summer job if he can convince his master to let him till the land with a shallow furrow.

Another way to conquer a strong Turf is, to plow it first with a Breast-plough, very thin; and, when the Swerd is rotten, then plow it at the proper Depth: But this Method is (besides the extraordinary Charge of it) liable to other great Misfortunes. If the Turf be pared up in Winter, or early in the Spring, it is a Chance but the Rains cause it to grow stronger than before, instead of its Rotting.

Another way to tackle tough turf is to first plow it lightly with a breast plow. Once the grass is decayed, then plow it at the right depth. However, this method is not only very expensive but also prone to other significant problems. If the turf is cut in the winter or early spring, there’s a chance that the rain will cause it to become thicker instead of decaying.

And if it be pared later, tho’ dry Weather do follow, and continue long enough to kill the Turf, yet this loses time; the Season of plowing is retarded; for all the Staple still remains untilled; and, before that can be well done, the Year is too far spent for sowing it with Wheat, which is the most proper Grain for such strong Land[257]; and few will have Patience to wait, and plow on till another Wheat-seed[285] time. The dry Weather also, which in Summer kills the Swerd, renders the Plowing obnoxious to most or all the Evils afore-mentioned.

And if you cut it back later, even if dry weather follows and lasts long enough to kill the grass, it still wastes time; the plowing season gets pushed back; all the main crops remain unplowed; and before that can be completed, the year runs out for planting it with wheat, which is the best crop for such strong land[257]; and few people will have the patience to wait and keep plowing until another wheat-planting[285] season. The dry weather that kills the grass in summer also makes the plowing more vulnerable to most or all of the issues mentioned earlier.

[257]Besides, most strong Land has Stones in it, which will not admit the Use of the Breast-plough.

[257]Besides, most solid land has rocks in it, which won’t allow the use of the plow.

A Farmer inquires concerning the Four-coulter Plough, as in the following Dialogue.

A farmer asks about the four-coulter plow in the following Conversation.

Farm. What must we do then? Must we have recourse to the Spade for breaking up our rich, strong, swerdy Land?

Farm. What should we do then? Do we need to use the spade to break up our rich, strong, tough land?

Resp. If you can procure Men to dig it faithfully in Pieces, not above Two Inches and an half thick, at the Price of about Eight Shillings per Acre, it would do very well, and answer all the Ends of Tillage; but, tho’ you bargain with them to dig it at that Size for Three Pounds per Acre, you will find, upon Examination, most of the Pieces or Spits, which are dug out of your Sight, to be of twice that Thickness. And no great Quantities can be this way managed, altho’ the Price of Corn should answer such an extravagant Expence.

Resp. If you can find workers to dig it properly in pieces no thicker than two and a half inches, for about eight shillings per acre, that would work really well and meet all your farming needs. However, even if you agree to pay them three pounds per acre to dig it at that size, upon inspection, you'll discover that most of the pieces or chunks dug out of your sight will be twice that thickness. Plus, it's hard to manage large quantities this way, even if the price of grain can justify such high costs.

Farm. Since it is so difficult to bring our strong Land into Tilth, after it has rested, that it cannot be speedily done by a Plough without a Coulter, or by one with a Coulter, in wet Weather or dry, nor with a Breast-plough, without a certain Expence, and an uncertain Success, the Spade is too chargeable a Tillage for the Field: It seems to me, upon the Whole, that we are Losers by this inaratæ gratia terræ, unless we could contrive some other Method of reducing it sooner, and with less Charge, into Tilth; for I observe, that, when we sow it upon the Back, the Corn and Grass (or Couch), coming both together, exhaust the Ground so much, that by that time we can (which is about Three Years) reduce the great Lumps to a tolerable Fineness, it grows full of Grass and Weeds (which we call Foul), and loses that Fertility we expected it should acquire by Rest, becoming,[286] in our Terms, both out of Tilth, and out of Heart.

Farm. Since it's so hard to get our strong land ready for planting after it has rested, it can't be quickly done with a plow without a coulter, or even with one in wet or dry weather, and using a breast plow comes with significant cost and unpredictable results. The spade is too expensive for field work. Overall, it feels like we're losing out on this inaratæ gratia terræ, unless we can come up with another way to prepare it more quickly and at a lower cost; because I notice that when we sow it on the back, both the corn and grass (or couch) grow together and deplete the soil so much that by the time we can (which is in about three years) break down the large clumps to a decent texture, it's already filled with grass and weeds (which we call foul) and loses the fertility we hoped it would gain from resting, becoming, [286] both out of tilth and out of heart.

Resp. If you know all this to be true, and that without a Coulter you cannot break it up at all; and that with one Coulter you cannot any way cut the Furrow small enough, or less than Ten Inches broad; why do not you cut it with Four Coulters, which will reduce the same Furrow into Four equal Parts, of Two Inches and an half each in Breadth, and of the Depth of the Staple, tho’ that should be Two Spit, or Sixteen Inches deep?

Resp. If you know all this is true, and that without a Coulter you can't break it up at all; and that with one Coulter you can't cut the furrow small enough, or less than ten inches wide; then why not use four Coulters, which would divide the same furrow into four equal sections, each two and a half inches wide, and to the depth of the staple, even if that is two spits or sixteen inches deep?

Farm. How can that be done?

Farm. How can we do that?

Resp. Every jot as easily as with one Coulter: For, before the Furrow is raised by the Share, it lies fast, and makes a sufficient Resistance equally against the Edges of all the Coulters; tho’, after it be raised and loose, it yields and recedes every way, except downwards; so that it cannot be cut by any Edge, but such as attacks it perpendicularly from above, as that of the Spade does.

Resp. Just as easily as with one plow blade: Before the soil is turned up by the blade, it’s packed tight and offers enough resistance against all the blades. However, once it’s turned and loose, it gives way and moves in all directions except downwards; so, it can only be cut by something that strikes it straight down from above, like a spade does.

Farm. This seems to me reasonable; and, having very lately heard talk of this Plough, I would gladly know more of it.

Farm. This seems reasonable to me; and, having just recently heard about this Plough, I would love to know more about it.

Resp. The Furrow, being cut into Four Parts, has not only Four times the Superficies on the Eight Sides which it would have had on Two Sides; but it is also more divided cross-ways; viz. The Ground-wrest presses and breaks the lower (or Right-hand) Quarter; the other Three Quarters, in rising and coming over the Earth-board, must make a crooked Line about a Fourth longer than the strait one they made before moved; therefore their Thinness not being able to hold them together, they are broken into many more Pieces, for want of Tenacity to extend to a longer Line, contrary to a whole Furrow, whose great Breadth enables it to stretch and extend from a shorter to a longer Line, without breaking; and, as[287] it is turned off, the Parts are drawn together again by the Spring of the Turf or Swerd[258], and so remain whole after Plowing. Thus the Four-coultered Plow can divide the Soil into above Twenty times more Parts than the common Plough; and sometimes, when the Earth is of a right Temper betwixt wet and dry, the Earth-board, in turning the Furrows off, will break them into Dust, having more Superficies than is made by Four common Plowings; and it is impossible there should be any large Pieces amongst it.

Resp. The Furrow, divided into Four Parts, has not only four times the surface area on the eight sides that it would have had on two sides but is also split more crosswise; viz. The Ground-wrest compresses and breaks the lower (or right-hand) quarter; the other three quarters, as they rise and come over the Earth-board, must create a line that's about a fourth longer than the straight one they made before moving. Because their thinness can't hold them together, they break into many more pieces due to a lack of tenacity to stretch over a longer line, unlike a whole furrow, whose greater width allows it to stretch from a shorter to a longer line without breaking. As[287] it is turned off, the parts are pulled back together by the spring of the turf or Swerd[258], remaining intact after plowing. Thus, the four-coultered plow can divide the soil into over twenty times more parts than a regular plow; and sometimes, when the earth is at the right balance between wet and dry, the Earth-board, as it turns off the furrows, will break them down into dust, creating more surface area than what is produced by four common plowings; and it’s impossible for there to be any large pieces among it.

[258]A swerdy Furrow cut off by only one Coulter, being whole, is apt to stand up on its Edge, or lie hollow; and then, being open to the Air, it does not rot; but when it is cut by several Coulters, it has not Strength to support itself, it falls down, lies close to the Earth under it, and, excluding the free Air from the Turf, it soon becomes rotten. And for killing the Turf of swerdy Land is the chief Use of the Four-coultered Plough: For doing of which there is this Advantage, that as in a whole Furrow there are often Strings of Couch-grass, Three or Four Feet long; but, when cut by this Plough, there is scarce a String left of one Foot long: And these Strings being apt to send out Roots from every Knot or Joint, the shorter they are cut, the more they will be exposed to the Air and Sun, which will kill them the sooner.

[258]A swardy furrow cut by just one coulter tends to stay upright on its edge or lie hollow; when it's open to the air, it doesn't rot. However, when it's cut by multiple coulters, it lacks the strength to support itself, falls down, and lies flat against the ground, preventing air from reaching the turf, which leads to it rotting quickly. The main purpose of the four-coultered plow is to kill the turf on swardy land. One advantage of this method is that in an intact furrow, there are often strings of couch grass that are three or four feet long, but when cut by this plow, there's barely a piece left longer than one foot. These pieces tend to produce roots from every knot or joint, so the shorter they're cut, the more they will be exposed to the air and sun, which will kill them off more quickly.

Now, what a prodigious Advantage must the Influences of the Atmosphere have upon these small Parts, for making a further Division of them! Frost, Water, Drought, and nitrous Air, easily penetrate to their very Centers, which cannot in the largest of them be more than one Inch and a Quarter distant from their Superficies. This Advantage, with a few subsequent common Plowings, performed in proper Seasons, resolves the Earth almost all to a Powder. The Swerd, some being immersed or buried and mixed among so great a Proportion of Mould, is soon rotten and lost; some of the Swerd lying loose a-top, the Earth presently drops out of it; and then the Roots are dried up, and die. Thus is the whole Staple of the Ground brought into perfect Tilth in[288] a very short time beyond what the Spade ever does in such swerdy Land.

Now, just think about how much the atmosphere affects these small parts, making it easier to break them down further! Frost, water, drought, and nitrogen-rich air can easily reach their centers, which can’t be more than an inch and a quarter from the surface. This advantage, along with a few timely plowings, turns the soil almost entirely into powder. Some of the sword, being buried and mixed with so much soil, quickly rots away; while some of the sword lying loosely on top, the soil just falls right out of it, and then the roots dry up and die. This is how the entire quality of the ground is improved to a perfect state in[288] a much shorter time than what can be achieved with a spade in such grassy land.

Farm. What sort of Weather is best for using this Plough?

Farm. What kind of weather is best for using this plow?

Resp. Any Weather, except the Ground be so dry and hard that the Plough cannot enter it; but it is very proper to be done, when the Earth is so wet, that by no means it ought to be plowed with any other Plough; for it never can be too moist for this, unless the Cattle which draw it be mired; because, tho’ all the Cattle should not go in the Furrow, yet their Treadings are cut so small by the Coulters, that the Earth is not kept from dissolving, as when turned off whole in common Tillage. ’Tis observed, that the Incisions made by the Coulters on swerdy Land, will not heal, or so close up, but that they will open again by the next Plowing, though it be a great while after. A Farmer who uses this Plough, may till in all Weathers and all Seasons of the Year, either in fallowing with this, which is best in wet, or in stirring with the common ones, which must be done in dry Weather; and when the Ground is broken up with this, it may be stirred in the driest Weather that can be, without the Danger of tearing (or spaulting) up of the under Stratum along with the Staple, because this is all broken before, and then no more can rise with it; as it does to the Ruin of the Soil, when in common Tillage they go deeper the Second time than the First: Also, if there be a Necessity of stirring some sort of Land when it is wet, it ought either to be done with this Plough, or else with a common one drawn by a single Row of Cattle treading all in the Furrow; for tho’ some Land be very fine, yet, when plowed by a double Row of Cattle in wet Weather, it will be made into large Pieces by the Treading, and perhaps not dissolve again in a long time: Therefore it is better to be prevented.

Resp. Any weather is fine, as long as the ground isn't so dry and hard that the plow can't go through it; however, it's best to plow when the earth is so wet that it shouldn't be plowed with any other type of plow. It can never be too moist for this plow unless the animals pulling it get stuck; because even if not all the animals are in the furrow, their steps are broken down by the coulters, which keeps the soil from clumping together like it does in standard tillage. It's noted that the cuts made by the coulters on tough land won't heal or close up completely, so they'll open again at the next plowing, even if it's a long time later. A farmer who uses this plow can till in any weather and at any time of the year, whether fallowing with this plow, which is best in wet conditions, or stirring with standard ones, which should only be done in dry weather. When the ground is broken up with this plow, it can be stirred during the driest weather without the risk of tearing up the lower layer along with the topsoil, because everything is already broken up beforehand, preventing any more from being lifted with it, as happens to the detriment of the soil when conventional tillage goes deeper the second time than the first. Additionally, if it's necessary to work on certain types of land when it's wet, it should either be done with this plow or with a conventional one pulled by a single row of animals stepping entirely in the furrow; because even if some land is very fine, when plowed with a double row of cattle in wet weather, it can turn into large clumps from the treading and may not break apart again for a long time. So, it's better to avoid that situation.

[289]

[289]

Farm. I perceive this Plough lays the Foundation for all good Husbandry; and there can be no other way to bring Land into perfect Tilth in so short a Time, or with so little Expence. And I am convinc’d, that no Farmer ought to be without it, who desires to be free from the Danger of his Land being ever out of Tilth: But I have heard it objected, that it is harder to draw than the common Ploughs; and that its Beam being longer, upon account of the Four Coulters, it lies farther behind, and comes harder after the Horses.

Farm. I believe this plow lays the foundation for all good farming; and there's no better way to get land into perfect condition in such a short time or with so little cost. I’m convinced that no farmer who wants to avoid the risk of their land being out of condition should be without it. Still, I've heard some say that it’s harder to pull than regular plows, and that its beam is longer because of the four blades, which makes it sit further back and harder to pull after the horses.

Resp. I must confess, there is something in that Objection; for this Plough, being something longer, may be a little the harder Draught; and also its Weight and Strength must bear a Proportion to the Length of it. But this small Increase of the Draught would have been a much stronger (if not a fatal) Objection, had that Custom been general, of Horses drawing by their Tails, as ’tis said to have been formerly in some Places; for then, perhaps, a sufficient Strength of Horses could not be applied to the Plough. But in Countries where Traces are in Use, every Horse of the Team may draw the Plough equally, and then there will be no other Inconvenience, besides the adding one Horse, or keeping a stronger Team: And he cannot be wise, who would lose the Profit of his Land, for the Odds of sometimes adding a Horse to his Plough. And I am very certain, that this Plough requires a much less Strength of Cattle to draw it in moist Weather, which is the most proper to use it in, than to draw a common Plough in the same Ground, and at the same Depth, in dry Weather; and can seldom be used safely in any other. And the Vulgar, who have always a wrong Cause ready at hand to apply to every thing, impute that Draught to the Fashion of the Plough, which ought to be imputed to its going deeper; and this great Depth at which ’tis capable of plowing, viz. Two[290] Spit deep, is one extraordinary Benefit of it, tho’ it may, on Occasion, go as shallow as any.

Resp. I have to admit, there’s some truth to that objection; this plow is a bit longer, which might make it slightly harder to pull, and its weight and strength need to match its length. However, this slight increase in pulling effort would have been a much stronger (if not devastating) objection if it had been common practice for horses to pull by their tails, as it’s said some places used to do; because then, it’s possible that there wouldn't be enough strong horses available to pull the plow. But in areas where traces are used, every horse on the team can pull the plow evenly, and the only downside is either adding one more horse or using a stronger team. It wouldn’t be smart to give up the benefits of your land just because of the occasional need to add a horse to the plow. And I’m quite sure that this plow requires much less strength from the animals to operate in wet conditions, which is when it’s best to use, than a regular plow would in the same soil and at the same depth when it’s dry, and it’s rarely safe to use in other conditions. The common folks, who always seem to find a flawed reason for everything, attribute that pulling effort to the design of the plow instead of its ability to plow deeper; and being able to plow at a great depth, i.e. two[290] spits deep, is one of its special advantages, although it can also be adjusted to plow more shallowly when needed.

The Draught is not so much increased by adding Three Coulters, as may be imagined; for when the Ground is moist, the Incisions are easily made by the Edges; and when they are cut small, the Furrows rise much more easily upon the Share and Earth-Board, than if whole.

The Draught doesn't really increase much by adding three Coulters, as you might think; when the ground is wet, the edges make the cuts easily, and when they're cut small, the furrows rise much more easily on the Share and Earth-Board than if they were whole.

Farm. If this Plough be so beneficial, having so many Advantages, and only the Two Inconveniencies, one of requiring a little more Strength to draw it, and the other its being unfit for dry hard Ground, I wonder why it is not become more common?

Farm. If this plow is so useful, offering so many benefits while only having two drawbacks—one being that it needs a bit more strength to use, and the other that it's not suitable for dry, hard ground—I wonder why it hasn't become more popular?

Resp. It has been used with very great Success for these several Years last past, but never like to be common, unless it be described in a more geometrical Manner, than any Plough has hitherto been; for the Plough-wrights find it difficult enough to make a common Plough with one Coulter to perform as it ought, for want of the necessary Rules of their Art. It is upon this Account that the Two-coulter’d Ploughs are used in few Places, though they have been found of excellent Use, and have been formerly common: But, alas! when the Makers, who by their diligent Study and much Practice had attained the Perfection of their Art, died for want of learning to write their Rules mathematically, and shew how the mechanical Powers were applicable to them, the Art was in a Manner lost, at the Death of those Artists; and then the unskilful Plough-wrights, destitute of the true Rules, were not able to make a Two-coulter’d Plough to perform well, and then it was left off. Very lately ’tis revived, since the Three and Four-coulter’d ones have been used; from whence some have made a Shift to take the Rules of placing Two Coulters into a Plough, and they begin to be common again; and, no doubt, will cease again as soon as the Rules are forgot.

Resp. It has been used with great success for several years now, but it’s unlikely to become common unless it’s described in a more geometric way than any plow has been so far; plow makers find it challenging enough to create a standard plow with one coulter that performs correctly, due to a lack of essential rules in their craft. This is why plows with two coulters are rarely used, even though they have proven to be very useful and were once common. However, when the makers, who had perfected their craft through hard work and study, passed away without being able to document their rules mathematically and show how the mechanical principles applied to them, their knowledge was, in a sense, lost with those artisans. Then, inexperienced plow makers, lacking the proper guidelines, couldn’t create a well-functioning two-coulter plow, and production of it stopped. Recently, it has been revived since the introduction of three and four coulters; some have managed to figure out how to place two coulters in a plow, and they are starting to become common again, but undoubtedly will fade away again as soon as the rules are forgotten.

Plate I

Page 291

Page 291

Plate. I.

Plate. I.

B.Cole. Delin. et Sculp.

B. Cole. Delin. and Sculp.

[291]

[291]

’Tis strange that no Author should have written fully of the Fabric of Ploughs! Men of the greatest Learning have spent their Time in contriving Instruments to measure the immense Distance of the Stars, and in finding out the Dimensions, and even Weight, of the Planets: They think it more eligible to study the Art of plowing the Sea with Ships, than of tilling the Land with Ploughs; they bestow the utmost of their Skill, learnedly, to pervert the natural Use of all the Elements for Destruction of their own Species, by the bloody Art of War. Some waste their whole Lives in studying how to arm Death with new Engines of Horror, and inventing an infinite Variety of Slaughter; but think it beneath Men of Learning (who only are capable of doing it) to employ their learned Labours in the Invention of new (or even improving the old) Instruments for increasing of Bread.

It’s strange that no author has fully written about the design of plows! The most learned people have spent their time creating tools to measure the vast distances of the stars and to determine the sizes and even weights of the planets. They believe it's more worthwhile to study how to navigate the seas with ships than to cultivate the land with plows; they dedicate their skills to twist the natural use of all elements for the destruction of their own species through the brutal art of war. Some waste their entire lives figuring out how to arm death with new tools of horror and invent countless ways to kill, yet they think it’s beneath learned people to use their knowledge to invent new (or even improve the old) tools for growing food.

The easiest Method of perpetuating the Use of the many coulter’d Ploughs, and other newly-invented Instruments of Husbandry, is by Models, i. e. the Things themselves in little; and these may be all portable even in a Man’s Pocket: Every Part must be fully described, with the true Dimensions, and the mathematical Reasons, on which their Contrivance is founded. Directions also for using them must be given at the same time that their Manner of making is described. In some, the very Horses which draw must be represented, to shew the manner of fixing the Horses, and the Traces: Cautions against all the Errors that may happen by the want of Experience in the Makers or Users, must be given.

The easiest way to keep using the many-bladed plows and other newly invented farming tools is by creating models, meaning small versions of the tools themselves that can easily fit in a person's pocket. Every part should be fully detailed, including the exact measurements, and the mathematical principles behind their design. Instructions for using the tools should be provided alongside the descriptions of how to make them. In some cases, the horses that pull the tools should be shown to illustrate how to attach the horses and the harnesses. Warnings against any mistakes that may occur due to a lack of experience from the makers or users should also be included.

When this is done, and the Rules put into a Method, the new Hoeing-Husbandry, in all its Branches, will be much more easy and certain than the old; because there are no mathematical Rules extant in any Method; and a Man may practise the old random Husbandry all his Life, without attaining so much Certainty in Agriculture as may be learned in a few Hours from such a Treatise.

When this is done, and the Rules are organized into a method, the new Hoeing-Husbandry, in all its branches, will be much easier and more reliable than the old way; because there are no mathematical rules available in any method; and a person might practice the old random farming their whole life without gaining as much certainty in agriculture as can be learned in just a few hours from such a guide.

[292]

[292]

The Rules, indeed, require much Labour, Study, and Experience, to compose them; but when finish’d, will be most easy to practise: Like the Rules for measuring Timber; their Use is, at first Sight, easy to every Carpenter, and to most Artificers who work in Wood; but no illiterate Person is able to compose those Rules, or to measure Timber without them.

The rules definitely need a lot of work, study, and experience to create; however, once they're finished, they're really easy to use. It's like the rules for measuring lumber; at first glance, they're simple for any carpenter and most craftsmen who work with wood, but an uneducated person can't create those rules or measure wood without them.


CHAP. 19.
The Description of a Four-coulter’d Plough.

To describe all Parts of a Plough geometrically, would require more Time and Learning than I am Master of: Therefore leaving that to be done by somebody else, who is better qualified for it, I shall at present attempt little more than what relates to the Three added Coulters.

To explain all the parts of a plough in geometric terms would take more time and knowledge than I possess. So, leaving that to someone more qualified, I will focus on what relates to the three additional coulters.

In Plate I. Fig. I. is the Portrait of a common Two-wheel’d Plough used in Berkshire, Hampshire, Oxfordshire, and Wiltshire, and in most other Countries of South-Britain; and is generally esteemed the best Plough for all Sorts of Land, except such miry Clays that stick to the Wheels, and clog them up, so as they cannot turn round.

In Plate I. Fig. I. is the portrait of a common two-wheeled plow used in Berkshire, Hampshire, Oxfordshire, and Wiltshire, as well as in most other areas of South Britain; it is generally regarded as the best plow for all types of land, except for very muddy clays that stick to the wheels and prevent them from turning.

Two-wheeled plough

But they have, in some Places, a Contrivance to prevent this Inconvenience; which is done by winding Thumb-ropes of Straw about the Iron Circles of the Wheels, and about the Spokes. The Wheels pressing against the Ground, the Thumb-ropes are distended on each Side: which Motion throws off the Dirt, and prevents its sticking to the Wheels, which it would otherwise do.

But in some places, they have a way to prevent this problem. They do this by wrapping straw ropes around the iron circles of the wheels and around the spokes. When the wheels press against the ground, the straw ropes stretch on each side. This movement helps to throw off the dirt and keeps it from sticking to the wheels, which it otherwise would.

’Tis commonly divided into Two Parts; viz. the Plough-head, and the Plough-tail.

It’s usually divided into two parts: the plough-head and the plough-tail.

The Plough-head contains the Two Wheels A, B, and their Axis or Spindle of Iron passing thro’ the[293] Box C, turning round both therein, and in the Wheels; the Two Crow-staves D, D, fastened into the Box perpendicularly, and having in each Two Rows of Holes, whereby to raise or sink the Beam, by pinning up or down, the Pillow E, to increase or diminish the Depth of the Furrow; the Gallows F, thro’ which the Crow-staves pass at top, by Mortises, into which they are pinned; G the Wilds with its Links and Crooks of Iron, whereby the whole Plough is drawn; H the Two-chain, which fastens the Plough-tail to the Plough-head, by the Collar I at one End, and by the other End passing thro’ a Hole in the Middle of the Box, is pinned in by the Stake K; L the Bridle-chain, one End whereof is fastened to the Beam by a Pin, and the other End to the Top of the Stake, which Stake is held up to the left Crow-staff, by the With M, patting round it above, and under the End of the Gallows below; or instead of this With, by a Piece of Cord, and sometimes by the End of the Bridle-chain, when that is long enough.

The Plough-head has the Two Wheels A, B, and its Iron Axis or Spindle going through the[293] Box C, turning both inside it and in the Wheels. The Two Crow-staves D, D, are attached to the Box vertically and have Two Rows of Holes in each, allowing the Beam to be raised or lowered by pinning up or down the Pillow E, to adjust the Depth of the Furrow. The Gallows F holds the Crow-staves at the top through Mortises, where they are pinned. G is the Wilds with its Links and Crooks of Iron, which pulls the entire Plough. H is the Two-chain, which connects the Plough-tail to the Plough-head, attaching by Collar I at one end, and the other end goes through a Hole in the Middle of the Box, pinned by Stake K. L is the Bridle-chain, one end of which is attached to the Beam by a Pin, and the other end connects to the Top of the Stake, which is supported by the With M around it above, and below the End of the Gallows; alternatively, the With can be replaced by a Piece of Cord, or sometimes by the End of the Bridle-chain if it's long enough.

The Plough-tail consists of the Beam N: the Coulter O; the Share P; and the Sheat Q; the Hinder-sheat R, passing thro’ the Beam near its End; S the short Handle, fastened to the Top of the Hinder-sheat by a Pin, and to the Top of the Sheat by another Pin; T the Drock which belongs to the right Side of the Plough-tail, and whereto the Ground-wrist V is fasten’d; as is the Earth-board, whose Fore-part W is seen before the Sheat; and also the long Handle X, whose Fore-part Y appears before the Sheat, and is fasten’d to the Drock by a Pin at a, the other End of which Pin goes into the Beam. Z is the double Retch, which holds up the Sheat, and passes through the Beam to be fasten’d by its Screws and Nuts at b and c.

The Plough-tail consists of the Beam N; the Coulter O; the Share P; and the Sheat Q; the Hinder-sheat R, connecting to the Beam near its End; S is the short Handle, attached to the Top of the Hinder-sheat by a Pin and to the Top of the Sheat by another Pin; T is the Drock, which is on the right Side of the Plough-tail, where the Ground-wrist V is attached; along with the Earth-board, whose Fore-part W is visible in front of the Sheat; and also the long Handle X, whose Fore-part Y is seen in front of the Sheat, and is secured to the Drock by a Pin at a, with the other End of that Pin going into the Beam. Z is the double Retch, which supports the Sheat and goes through the Beam, secured by its Screws and Nuts at b and c.

But without intrenching much farther upon the common Plough-wright’s Art, whose Trade is his Living, I’ll hasten to shew the necessary Difference[294] there is betwixt the common Plough, and the Four-coulter Plough, beginning with Fig. 2. where it is represented as standing upon a level Surface.

But without going too deep into the common plowmaker's craft, which is their livelihood, I'll quickly point out the essential differences between the standard plow and the four-coulter plow, starting with Fig. 2. where it is shown on a flat surface.[294]

Four-coulter plough

Fig. 2. And, First, The Beam differs in Length, being Ten Feet Four Inches long, as the other Plough-beam is but Eight Feet; it differs in Shape, as the other is strait from one End to the other, but this is strait only from a to b, and thence turns up of a sudden, in the manner that is shewn in the Cut; so that a Line let down perpendicular, from the Corner at a, to the even Surface whereon the Plough stands, would be Eleven Inches and an half, which is its Height in that Place; and, if another Line were let down, from the turning of the Beam at b, to the same Surface, it would be One Foot Eight Inches and an half, which is the Height that the Beam stands from the Ground, at that Part; and a Third Line let down to the Surface, from the Bottom of the Beam, at that Part which bears upon the Pillow, will shew the Beam to be Two Feet Ten Inches high above the Surface in that Part.

Fig. 2. And, first, the beam is different in length, being ten feet four inches long, while the other plough beam is only eight feet. It also differs in shape; the other beam is straight from one end to the other, but this one is straight only from a to b, and then it suddenly turns up, as shown in the illustration. If you drop a perpendicular line from the corner at a to the flat surface where the plough stands, it would measure eleven and a half inches, which is its height at that point. If another line is dropped from the bend of the beam at b to the same surface, it would be one foot eight and a half inches, which is how high the beam is from the ground at that section. A third line dropped to the surface from the bottom of the beam at the part that rests on the pillow will show the beam to be two feet ten inches high above the surface at that location.

From the End a, to the Back-part of the first Coulter, is Three Feet Two Inches; from thence, to the Back of the next Coulter, is Thirteen Inches; thence to the Third, Thirteen Inches; and from thence to the Fourth, the same. From a to b is Seven Feet.

From the end a to the back of the first Coulter, it's three feet two inches; from there to the back of the next Coulter, it's thirteen inches; then to the third, thirteen inches; and from there to the fourth, the same. From a to b is seven feet.

This Crookedness of the Beam is to avoid the too great Length of the foremost Coulters, which would be necessary if the Beam was strait; and then, unless they were vastly thick and heavy, they would be apt to bend, and the Point of the Fourth would be at so great a Distance from its Coulter-hole, that it would have the greater Power to loosen the Wedges, whereby the Coulter would rise up out of its Work, as it never doth when the Beam is made in this bending Manner. This Beam is made either of Ash, which is the lightest, or of Oak, which is the most[295] durable. Its Depth and Breadth may vary, according to the heavier or lighter Soil it is to till; but this before us is in Depth Five Inches at the first Coulter-hole, and in Breadth Four Inches.

The curve of the beam is designed to prevent the front coulters from being too long, which would be necessary if the beam were straight. If that were the case, and unless they were very thick and heavy, the coulters would likely bend. This would result in the point of the fourth coulter being positioned far from its coulter hole, increasing the chances of loosening the wedges, causing the coulter to lift out of its work, which doesn’t happen when the beam is shaped this way. This beam is made either from ash, which is the lightest option, or oak, which is the most durable. Its depth and width can vary based on the weight of the soil it needs to till; however, the one we’re looking at has a depth of five inches at the first coulter hole and a width of four inches.

Plough sheat

Fig. 4. Is the Sheat Q in Fig. 1. (broad Seven Inches) with the Iron Retch on it, the left Leg of which Retch must stand foremost, to the end that the Edge of its Fore-part, that is flat, may fit close to the Wood of the Sheat: This Retch holds the Sheat fast up to the Beam by its Nuts and Screws; as also doth a Pin driven into the Hole a, which Hole being a small Part of it within the Beam, the Pin being driven into the Hole, draws up the Sheat very tight to the Beam. The principal thing to be taken notice of here, is the Angle b c d, which shews the Elevation of the Sheat; the Line c d is supposed to be equal with the Bottom of the Share (or rather with the plain Surface whereon it stands); when this Angle at c is larger than of Forty-five Degrees, a common Plough never goes well: In my Four-coulter Plough I choose to have it of Forty-two or Forty-three at the most.

Fig. 4. Is the Sheat Q in Fig. 1. (broad Seven Inches) with the Iron Retch on it, the left leg of which Retch must stand in front so that the flat edge of its front part can fit snugly against the wood of the Sheat. This Retch keeps the Sheat securely against the Beam using its nuts and screws; it also has a pin driven into hole a, which is a small part of it within the Beam. When the pin is driven into the hole, it pulls the Sheat tight against the Beam. The main point to note here is the angle b c d, which indicates the elevation of the Sheat; the line c d is assumed to be level with the bottom of the share (or rather with the flat surface it rests on). When this angle at c is larger than forty-five degrees, a common plough does not operate well: In my four-coulter plough, I prefer it to be around forty-two or forty-three degrees at most.

Plough share

Fig. 5. Is the Share; a is the End of the Point; b is the Tail of the Share, long from a to b Three Feet Nine Inches; c the Fin; d the Socket, into which the Bottom of the Sheat enters; e a thin Plate of Iron riveted to the Tail of the Share: By this Plate, the Tail of the Share is held to the hinder Sheat, as at d in Fig. 1. by a small Iron Pin with a Screw at its End, and a Nut screw’d on it on the inner or right Side of that Sheat. From a to f is the Point, long about Three Inches and an half, flat underneath, and round at Top: It should be of hard Steel underneath. From f to c is the Edge of the Fin, which should be well steeled; the Length of it is uncertain, but it should never make a less Angle at f than it appears to make in this Fig. The Socket is a Mortise of about a Foot long, at the upper Part,[296] Two Inches deep: The Fore-end of this Mortise must not be perpendicular, but oblique, conformable to the Fore-part of the Sheat which enters it; the upper Edge of which Fore-part must always bear against the Sheat at e in Fig. 4. but if this End of the Socket should not be quite so oblique as the Sheat, it may be help’d, by taking off a little of the Wood at the Point c.

Fig. 5. is the Share; a is the tip of the Point; b is the end of the Share, which measures three feet nine inches from a to b; c is the Fin; d is the Socket where the bottom of the Sheat fits in; e is a thin plate of iron attached to the end of the Share: This plate keeps the Tail of the Share attached to the back Sheat, as shown at d in Fig. 1. by a small iron pin with a screw at the end and a nut fastened on the inner or right side of that Sheat. From a to f is the Point, which is about three and a half inches long, flat on the bottom and round on the top: It should be made of hard steel on the underside. From f to c is the edge of the Fin, which should be well tempered; the length is variable, but it should never form an angle at f that is smaller than it appears in this Fig. The Socket is a mortise about a foot long at the top, two inches deep: The front end of this mortise should not be vertical, but slanted, in line with the front part of the Sheat that enters it; the upper edge of that front part must always touch the Sheat at e in Fig. 4., but if the end of the Socket isn't quite as slanted as the Sheat, you can adjust it by trimming a bit of wood at the point c.

Plough share

Fig. 6. Shews the Share, with its right Side upwards, in the same Posture as when it plows; whose Side a b should be perfectly strait, but its under Side at c, which is its Neck, should be a little hollow from the Ground, but never more than half an Inch in any Plough, and a Quarter of an Inch in a Four-coulter Plough; so that the Share, when it is first made, standing upon its Bottom, bears upon the level Surface only in Three Places; viz. at the very Point a, at the Tail b, and at the Corner of the Fin d.

Fig. 6. Shows the share with its right side up, in the same position as when it plows. Its side a b should be perfectly straight, but its underside at c, which is its neck, should be slightly curved from the ground, but never more than half an inch in any plow, and a quarter of an inch in a four-coulter plow. This way, when the share is first made and sits on its bottom, it only touches the level surface in three places: viz. at the very point a, at the tail b, and at the corner of the fin d.

Plough share

Fig. 7. Is the Share, turn’d Bottom upwards; and shews the Concavity of the Fin at a; which must be greatest in a stony rubbly Soil.

Fig. 7. Is the Share, turned upside down; and shows the inward curve of the Fin at a; which must be greatest in a rocky, uneven soil.

Plough share

Fig. 8. Shews the Share, the right Side upwards, but leaning towards the Left.

Fig. 8. Shows the Share, with the right Side up, but tilting towards the Left.

In placing of the Share rightly upon the Sheat, consists the well going of a Plough, and is the most difficult Part of a Plough-wright’s Trade, and is very difficult to be shewn. Supposing the Axis of the strait Beam, and the left Side of the Share, to be both horizontal, they must never be parallel to each other; for if they were, the Tail of the Share, bearing against the Side of the Trench, as much as the Point, would cause the Point to incline to the right Hand, and go out of the Ground into the Furrow. If the Point of the Share should be set, so that its Side should make an Angle on the right Side of the Axis of the Beam, this Inconvenience would be much greater; and if its Point should incline much to the[297] Left, and make too large an Angle on that Side with the Axis of the Beam, the Plough would run quite to the left Hand; and if the Holder, to prevent its running out of the Ground, turns the upper Part of his Plough towards the left Hand, the Fin of the Share will rise up, and cut the Furrow diagonally[259], leaving it half unplow’d; beside, the Plough will rise up at the Tail, and go all upon the Point of the Share: To avoid these Inconveniences, the strait Side of the Share must make an Angle on the left Side of the Beam, but so very acute, that the Tail of the Share may only press less against the Side of the Trench than the Point does. This Angle is shewn by the prick’d Lines at the Bottom of Fig. 1. where the prick’d Line e f is supposed to be[298] the Axis of the Beam let down to the Surface, and the prick’d Line g f parallel to the left Side of the Share; but this Angle will vary as those Two prick’d Lines are produc’d forwards to the Fore-end of a long and a short Beam, keeping the same Subtense: For Plough-wrights always take this Subtense at the Fore-end of a Beam, whether it be a long Beam or short one; and it is the Subtense e g, that determines the Inclination the Point of the Share must have toward the left Hand. Plough-wrights differ much in this Matter; but, by what I can learn by those that make the Ploughs I see perform the best, this Subtense at the Fore-end of an Eight-feet Beam should never be more than one Inch and an half; and by full Experience I find, that whether the Beam be long or short, the Subtense must be the same; for when my Plough-wrights take this Subtense at Eight Feet from the Tail, when they make my Four-coulter Plough, whose Beam is Ten Feet Four Inches long, the Point of the Share will incline too much to the Left, and it will not go well until this Fault be mended, by taking the same Subtense quite at the End of the Beam; which makes the mentioned Angle more acute.

When positioning the Share correctly on the Sheat, it is crucial for the smooth operation of a Plough, and it’s one of the most challenging aspects of a Ploughwright’s job, making it difficult to demonstrate. If we assume that both the Axis of the straight Beam and the left Side of the Share are horizontal, they should never be parallel; if they were, the Tail of the Share would push against the side of the Trench just as much as the Point, causing the Point to tilt to the right and pop out of the ground into the Furrow. If the Point of the Share is set at an angle to the right of the Axis of the Beam, this issue becomes much worse; and if the Point tilts too much to the left (creating a large angle with the Axis of the Beam), the Plough will veer left. If the Holder tries to correct this by turning the top part of the Plough to the left, the Fin of the Share will lift up, cutting the Furrow at an angle, thus leaving it half-plowed. Additionally, the Plough will rise at the Tail and rest entirely on the Point of the Share. To avoid these issues, the straight Side of the Share should form an angle on the left Side of the Beam, and it should be acute enough that the Tail of the Share applies less pressure against the side of the Trench than the Point does. This angle is illustrated by the dotted lines at the bottom of Fig. 1., where the dotted line e f represents the Axis of the Beam projected down to the surface, and the dotted line g f is parallel to the left Side of the Share. However, this angle will change as these two dotted lines are extended forward to the front end of both long and short Beams while maintaining the same horizontal distance. Ploughwrights usually take this distance at the front end of a Beam, regardless of whether it’s long or short; it is the Subtense e g that dictates how much the Point of the Share should lean to the left. There’s a lot of variation among Ploughwrights on this topic, but based on the feedback from those who make the Ploughs I see performing best, this Subtense at the front end of an eight-foot Beam should never exceed one and a half inches. My experience shows that whether the Beam is long or short, the Subtense must remain consistent; for instance, when my Ploughwrights take this Subtense eight feet from the Tail while constructing my Four-coulter Plough with a Beam measuring ten feet four inches, the Point of the Share tends to lean too far left, causing poor performance until the issue is corrected by measuring the same Subtense right at the end of the Beam, which results in a sharper angle.

[259]This is the greatest Misfortune incident to a common Two-wheeled Plough, and happens generally by the Fault of the Maker, though sometimes by the Plowman’s setting it so, that the Point of the Share turns too much to the Left. I have seen Land plowed in this manner, where not half of it has been moved, nor better tilled than by Raftering, not only cut diagonally, but also half the Surface hath remained whole, where when the Earth that was thrown on it was removed, the Weeds appeared unhurt on the unplowed Surface. In this Case, they for a Remedy let the Plough to go deeper; and then, if it go deep enough for the Fin to cut off the Furrow at a just Depth, the Point will go below the Staple, which may ruin the Soil, unless it be very deep.

[259]This is the biggest problem with a regular two-wheeled plow, and it usually occurs because of a mistake by the maker, although sometimes it’s due to how the plowman sets it up, causing the point of the share to angle too much to the left. I’ve seen land plowed this way, where less than half of it was disturbed, and it was tilled no better than by just dragging a beam across it. It was not only cut diagonally, but also half of the surface remained untouched, and when the dirt that was thrown onto it was cleared away, the weeds were still thriving on the unplowed area. In this situation, as a fix, they let the plow dig deeper; and then, if it digs deep enough for the fin to cut the furrow at the right depth, the point will go below the staple, which could damage the soil unless it’s very deep.

When our English Ploughs go in this manner, they make much worse Work than the Eastern Ploughs, that have no Coulter; for these, contrary to ours, though they always cut their Furrow diagonally, cut it thin on that Side from which it is turned, as our bad Ploughs leave it thin on that Side towards which it is turned. The Earth the Easterns leave by their Diagonal in one Furrow, is taken off by the next; but ours leaving Part of their Furrow behind them, on the Side next to the plowed Part of the Field, come at it no more; but the other can plow cleaner, their Diagonal being contrary to ours, which leaves the Trench deepest on the Side next to the unplowed Part of the Field; but unless the Fin of the Four-coultered Plough go parallel to the Surface of the Earth, it will not plough at all; or will leave Two or Three of its Four Furrows untouched.

When our English plows operate this way, they create a much messier job than the Eastern plows, which don’t have a colter; because while the Eastern plows always cut their furrow diagonally, they leave it thinner on the side that’s being turned, whereas our poorly designed plows leave it thin on the side they’re turning towards. The soil that the Easterns leave behind on one furrow is picked up by the next; but ours leave part of their furrow behind, on the side next to the already plowed section of the field, and they never come back to it. The others can plow more cleanly because their diagonal cut is opposite to ours, which leaves the trench deepest on the side next to the unplowed part of the field; however, unless the fin of the four-coultered plow is parallel to the surface of the ground, it won’t plow at all, or it will leave two or three of its four furrows untouched.

Four-coulter plough
Ground wrist
Plough share

 

Perforated drock

Fig. 3. Shews the right-hand Side, and upper Side of the Four-coulter Plough, of which V the Iron Ground-wrist is shewn in Fig. 9. long Two Feet Five Inches, deep at the End b Four Inches, and Three-eighths of an Inch thick, except at the End a, where it is thin enough to bend, so as to fit close to the Share, as at e, in Fig. 6. The Ground-wrist has Four small Holes near its End a, into one of which goes a Nail, to fasten it to the Shear, thro’ the long Hole in the Side of the Socket of the Share, as at a, in Fig. 10. and then it will stand in the Posture shewn by e f, in Fig. 6. From the Outside of the Ground-wrist at f, to the Outside of the Share at b, is Eleven Inches and an half, which is the Width of[299] the lower Part of the Plough-tail at the Ground; the Ground-wrist has several Holes at the upper Side of its broadest End, as at b, in Fig. 9. by which it is nailed to the lower Part of the Drock T, as in Fig. 3. which Drock with its Perforations is shewn in Fig. 11.

Fig. 3. shows the right side and top of the four-coulter plow, with V indicating the iron ground-wrist shown in Fig. 9. measuring two feet five inches long, four inches deep at the end b, and three-eighths of an inch thick, except at the end a, where it's thin enough to bend and fit closely to the share, as seen at e, in Fig. 6.. The ground-wrist has four small holes near its end a, where a nail is inserted to attach it to the shear through the long hole in the side of the socket of the share, as at a, in Fig. 10., allowing it to stand in the position shown by e f, in Fig. 6.. From the outside of the ground-wrist at f to the outside of the share at b, measures eleven and a half inches, which is the width of[299] the lower part of the plow-tail at the ground. The ground-wrist has several holes on the upper side of its widest end, as at b, in Fig. 9., where it is nailed to the lower part of the drock T, as shown in Fig. 3., which drock along with its perforations is shown in Fig. 11..

Fig. 12. Is the Earth-board, with its Inside upwards; the Notch a b shews the Rising of the Wood, which takes hold of the Edge of the Sheat, to hold it the firmer, to which it is fastened by the Holes c and d; and at the other End it is fastened to the Drock, at the Hole e. All which is seen as it stands mark’d with W, in Fig. 3. But this Pin, with which it is fastened to the Drock, is bigger in the Middle than at each End; which prevents the Earth-board from coming near the Drock: By this Pin, the Earth-board is set at a greater or less Distance from the Drock, as there is Occasion to throw off the Furrow farther from the Plough at some times than at others: It always stands considerably farther out on the right Hand than the Ground-wrist does, which is one Reason that the Drock is made crooked, bending outwards in that Part.

Fig. 12. Is the Earth-board, positioned with its top side facing up; the Notch a b indicates the rise of the wood, which grips the edge of the Sheet to hold it more securely, attached by holes c and d; at the other end, it’s fastened to the Drock at hole e. This arrangement is illustrated as marked with W in Fig. 3.. However, this pin, which secures it to the Drock, is wider in the middle than at either end, preventing the Earth-board from getting too close to the Drock. With this pin, the Earth-board can be adjusted to be farther or closer to the Drock, depending on the need to throw the furrow farther from the plow at different times. It consistently stands much farther out on the right side than the Ground-wrist, which is one reason why the Drock is made crooked, bending outward in that section.

Earth board
Plough handle
Plough handle

 

Hinder sheat

The long Handle X is Fig. 13. long Five Feet Four Inches, broad in the widest Part Four Inches, pinned to the Sheat thro’ the Holes a b, and pinned to the Drock through the Hole c.

The long Handle X is Fig. 13. long Five Feet Four Inches, wide at the widest part Four Inches, secured to the sheath through the holes a b, and attached to the Drock through the hole c.

The short Handle S is Fig. 14. and is long Three Feet Nine Inches, pinned to the hinder Sheat (being Fig. 15.) by the Hole a, and to the Top of the Fore-sheat above the Beam by the Hole b.

The short Handle S is Fig. 14. and is 3 feet 9 inches long, attached to the back Sheat (being Fig. 15.) by the Hole a, and to the top of the Fore-sheat above the Beam by the Hole b.

The Handles are made so long, for the more easy guiding of the Plough; but the lazy Ploughman is apt to cut them off shorter, close up to the Plough, to the end that, bearing his whole Weight thereon, he may in a manner ride instead of walking; but if he should thus ride on long Handles, he would tilt up the Fore-end of the Beam, and raise the Share out of the Ground.

The handles are made long to make it easier to guide the plow, but a lazy plowman is likely to cut them off shorter, right up to the plow, so he can put his full weight on it and effectively ride instead of walking. However, if he rides on long handles, he would lift the front end of the beam and raise the share out of the ground.

[300]

[300]

Coulter holder

The chief, and most indispensably necessary thing to be observed, is, to place the Four Coulters in such a manner, that the Four imaginary Planes described by the Edges of the Four Coulters, as the Plough moves forwards, be all of them parallel to each other, or very nearly so; for if any one of them should be much inclined to, or recede from, either of the other three, they could not enter the Ground together. In order to place them thus, the Coulter-holes must be made through the Beam, in the manner as they are shewn in Fig. 3. viz. the Second Coulter-hole is Two Inches and an half more on the Right than the First, the Third, Two and an half more on the right Hand than the Second, and the Fourth, Two Inches and an half more on the right Hand than the Third, conformable to the Four Incisions or Cuts they are to make in a Ten-inch Furrow: And because no single Beam is broad enough to hold the Four Coulter-holes at this Distance, we are forced to add the Piece shewn in Fig. 16. The Second Hole is made Part in the Beam, and Part in this Piece; the Third and Fourth are made wholly in this Piece, in which a, b, c, are the Ends of the Three Screws, which fasten the Piece to the right Side of the Beam by their Nuts.

The main, and absolutely essential thing to keep in mind is to position the Four Coulters so that the Four imaginary Planes created by the Edges of the Four Coulters, as the Plough moves forward, are all parallel to each other, or very close to it. If any one of them tilts significantly or moves away from the other three, they won't be able to enter the Ground together. To arrange them this way, the Coulter-holes need to be made through the Beam, as shown in Fig. 3. namely the Second Coulter-hole is Two and a half Inches more to the Right than the First, the Third is Two and a half more to the Right than the Second, and the Fourth is Two and a half more to the Right than the Third, in line with the Four Incisions or Cuts they are supposed to make in a Ten-inch Furrow. And since no single Beam is wide enough to accommodate the Four Coulter-holes at this distance, we need to add the Piece shown in Fig. 16.. The Second Hole is partly in the Beam and partly in this Piece; the Third and Fourth are fully in this Piece, where a, b, c, are the Ends of the Three Screws that secure the Piece to the right Side of the Beam with their Nuts.

The Distance of Two Inches and an half, by which each of the Three added Coulters stand more to the right Hand than that immediately behind it, must be reckoned from the Middle of one Hole to the Middle of the other.

The distance of two and a half inches by which each of the three added coulters is positioned further to the right than the one directly behind it must be measured from the center of one hole to the center of the next.

The Fore-part of every Hole must incline a little towards the Left; so that the Backs of the Coulters may not bear against the left Side of the Incisions made by the Edges.

The front part of every hole should tilt slightly to the left so that the backs of the coulters don’t touch the left side of the cuts made by the edges.

Each Hole, being a Mortise, is one Inch and a quarter wide, with its Two opposite Sides parallel from Top to Bottom; each of these Mortises, or Holes, are long at Top Three Inches and an half, and at Bottom Three Inches; the Back-part, or Hinder-end,[301] of each Coulter-hole is not perpendicular, but oblique, and determines the Obliquity of the Standing of the Coulter, which is wedged tight up to it by the Poll-wedge i, Fig. 1. as all Coulters are.

Each hole, being a mortise, is an inch and a quarter wide, with its two opposite sides parallel from top to bottom. Each of these mortises, or holes, is three and a half inches long at the top and three inches at the bottom. The back part, or hind end, [301] of each coulter hole is not perpendicular but angled, which affects the angle at which the coulter stands, which is tightly wedged against it by the poll wedge i, Fig. 1. as all coulters are.

Coulter

Fig. 17. Is a Coulter; a b is its Length, being Two Feet Eight Inches, before it is worn; e d is its Edge, Sixteen Inches long; d c is the Length of its Handle, Sixteen Inches; this is made thus long, at first, to stand above the Plough, that it may be driven down lower, according as the Point wears shorter; this Handle is One Inch and Seven Eighths broad, and Seven Eighths of an Inch thick, equally thro’ its whole Length: Its Breadth and Thickness might be described by a rectangled Parallelogram.

Fig. 17. Is a Coulter; a b is its Length, measuring Two Feet Eight Inches when new; e d is its Edge, which is Sixteen Inches long; d c is the Length of its Handle, also Sixteen Inches; this Handle is initially made this long to rise above the Plough, allowing it to be driven down lower as the Point wears down; this Handle is One Inch and Seven Eighths wide and Seven Eighths of an Inch thick, consistently throughout its entire Length: Its Width and Thickness could be represented by a rectangular Parallelogram.

In all Ploughs this first Coulter is, or ought to be, placed in the Beam in manner following; viz. its Back to bear against the Back of the Coulter-hole, its right Side above to bear against the upper Edge of the Coulter-hole, and its left Side to bear against the lower Edge of the Coulter-hole; so that always Three Wedges at least will be necessary to hold the Coulter; the Poll-wedge before it, as at i, in Fig. 1. another Wedge on the left Side of it above, and a Third on the right Side underneath: The Coulter-hole must be so made, that the Coulter standing thus across the Hole, its Point may incline so much towards the Left, as to be about Two Inches and an half farther to the Left[260] than the Point of the Share, if it were driven down as low as it; but it never ought to be so low in any Plough: As to its bearing forwards, the Point of the Coulter should never be before the Middle of the Point of the Share: What Angle the Coulter would make with the Bottom of the Share, may be seen by the Posture it stands in, in Fig. 1. If it should be set much more obliquely, it would have a[302] greater Force to raise up the Poll-wedge, and get loose.

In all plows, the first coulter should be positioned in the beam as follows: its back should press against the back of the coulter hole, its right side should rest against the upper edge of the coulter hole, and its left side should be against the lower edge of the coulter hole. This setup requires at least three wedges to secure the coulter: the poll wedge placed in front of it, another wedge on the left side above, and a third wedge on the right side below. The coulter hole must be designed so that when the coulter is positioned across it, the point leans slightly to the left, about two and a half inches farther to the left than the point of the share if it were lowered to the same depth; however, it should never be set that low in any plow. In terms of forward positioning, the point of the coulter should not be ahead of the middle of the point of the share. The angle the coulter makes with the bottom of the share can be determined by how it is positioned. If it is set at a much more oblique angle, it would exert greater force to lift the poll wedge and loosen it.

[260]I find that sometimes it is necessary in some of these Ploughs for the Point of this Coulter to stand yet farther on the Left of the Share’s Point.

[260]I've noticed that sometimes it's necessary for the point of this coulter to be positioned even further to the left of the share's point on some of these plows.

The Three added Coulters should stand in the same Posture with this already described, in regard to the Inclination of their Points towards the Left: And this is a very great Advantage to them; for by this means, when the Fin is rais’d up, by turning the Handles towards the Left, their Points do not rise out of the Ground on the right Hand, as they would do without this described Inclination towards the Left; but in regard to their Pointing forwards, I find it best, that every one of the Three should be a little more perpendicular than that next behind it. So the Coulter 4 stands the nearest to Perpendicular of any of them. By this means there being more Room betwixt them above than below, they are the more easily freed from the Turf, whenever the Pieces, being covered with a great Quantity of Couch-grass, or the like, rise up betwixt them: which tho’ this seldom happens, makes a Necessity for a Man, or a Boy, to go on the Side with a forked Stick, to push out the Turf and Grass, which might otherwise fill the Spaces betwixt the Coulters, and raise up the Plough out of its Work.

The three added coulters should be positioned the same way as described earlier, with their points angled towards the left. This gives them a significant advantage; when the fin is raised up by turning the handles to the left, their points don’t lift out of the ground on the right side as they would without this leftward angle. In terms of pointing forward, it’s best for each of the three to be slightly more upright than the one behind it. Thus, Coulter 4 is positioned closest to vertical compared to the others. This setup creates more space above them than below, making it easier to free them from the turf whenever the sections get covered with a lot of couch grass or similar obstacles. While this doesn’t happen often, it requires a person or a boy to go alongside with a forked stick to push out the turf and grass that might otherwise clog the spaces between the coulters and lift the plow out of its work.

’Tis to be observed, that none of these Coulters ought to descend so low as the Bottom of the Share, except when you plow very shallow: ’Tis always sufficient that they cut through the Turf, let the Plough go never so deep in the Ground.

It should be noted that none of these Coulters should go down as low as the bottom of the Share, except when you’re plowing very shallow. It’s always enough that they cut through the turf, no matter how deep the plow goes into the ground.

It is necessary also, that when you plow very shallow, the Fin of the Share be broad enough to cut off the Fourth Piece or Furrow; else that, lying fast, will be apt to raise up the Ground-wrist, and throw out the Plough: But when you plow deep, the Ground-wrist will break off this Fourth Furrow, altho’ the Fin be not broad enough to reach it.

It’s also important that when you plow very shallow, the fin of the share is broad enough to cut off the fourth piece or furrow; otherwise, that will get stuck, causing the ground-wrist to lift, and the plow could be thrown out. However, when you plow deeply, the ground-wrist will break off this fourth furrow, even if the fin isn’t broad enough to reach it.

Sometimes the First or left Furrow is apt to come through betwixt the First Coulter and the Sheat, and[303] so falls on the left-hand Side of the Plough: This is no Injury; but yet it is prevented, by letting the Second Coulter stand a little higher than the Third; and then the Second Furrow, holding the First at its Bottom, will carry it over, together with itself, on the right Side by the Earth-board; but yet never set this, or any of the Three added Coulters, so high that they may not cut through the Turf. But as for the first Coulter, tho’ it should cut but an Inch or Two within the Ground, the Share will break off the first Furrow in raising it up.

Sometimes the first or left furrow can end up coming through between the first coulter and the sheath, and[303] thus falls on the left side of the plow. This isn’t a problem, but it can be avoided by raising the second coulter a bit higher than the third. This way, the second furrow, holding the first at its bottom, will carry it over, along with itself, on the right side by the earth-board. However, don’t set this or any of the three extra coulters so high that they can’t cut through the turf. As for the first coulter, even if it only cuts an inch or two into the ground, the share will break off the first furrow when lifting it up.

Remember, as often as the Point of any Coulter is worn too short, that you drive down the Coulter with a large Hammer, carried for that Purpose; and when it is driven low enough, fasten the Wedges again, so as to keep the Coulters in their right Postures, that their Incisions may be all of them equidistant.

Remember, whenever the tip of any coulter is worn down too short, to drive the coulter down with a large hammer that's meant for that purpose; and when it's driven deep enough, secure the wedges again to keep the coulters positioned properly, so their cuts are all evenly spaced.

Nut

Fig. 18. Is a Nut, with Two of its opposite Corners turn’d up, by which it is driven round by a Hammer, and has so great a Force, that Three of them, with their Screws properly placed, hold the Piece, Fig. 16. as fast to the Plough-beam, as if they both were made of one Piece of Wood; but as often as the Wood shrinks in dry Weather, the Nuts must be screw’d farther on, both here and in all other Places where they are used: particularly, those which hold up the Retch; for if the Sheat should once get loose, there is no Cure but by a new one.

Fig. 18. is a nut with two opposite corners turned up, allowing it to be turned by a hammer. It exerts such strong force that three of these nuts, with their screws correctly positioned, hold the piece, Fig. 16., as tightly to the plow beam as if they were made from a single piece of wood. However, whenever the wood shrinks in dry weather, the nuts must be tightened further, both here and in all other locations where they are used; particularly those that support the ratchet. If the sheath becomes loose, the only solution is to replace it.

Betwixt this Nut and the Wood, there should be a thin Iron Bolster, about the Thickness of a Shilling, broader than the Nut, to prevent the Nut from eating into the Wood, especially when it is to be often screw’d, as on the Retch of these Ploughs, and most of all on the Hoe-plough; but sometimes we use a Piece of Shoe-leather instead of an Iron Bolster.

Between this Nut and the Wood, there should be a thin Iron Spacer, about the thickness of a Shilling, wider than the Nut, to stop the Nut from digging into the Wood, especially when it’s tightened often, like on the Retch of these Plows, and especially on the Hoe-plow; but sometimes we use a piece of shoe leather instead of an Iron Spacer.

Note, There must be Iron Plates upon all the Coulter-holes both above and below, Three of which[304] are seen on the Piece in Fig. 16. There is no need to say how they must be nailed on with many Nails made for the Purpose.

Note, There must be iron plates covering all the coulter holes both above and below, three of which[304] are visible on the piece in Fig. 16.. It's unnecessary to explain how they should be secured with numerous nails made specifically for this purpose.

Collar

Fig. 19. Is the Iron Collar, fastened to the Beam by Two short Crooks A, B, which take hold of Two short Pins driven into the Plough just behind the Second Coulter-hole, one on one Side, and the other on the other Side of the Beam. The Crook A is seen on the left Side of the Beam near c, in Fig. 2. the Crook B doing the same on the other Side of the Beam, which is seen near a, in Fig. 3. C is the Crook (for its Shape called a C) which holds the Tow-chain to the Collar by the Link D, being Part of the said Chain taking hold of its Fore-claw; the other Claw taking hold of one of the Five Notches of the Collar: This Collar is partly seen at d, in Fig. 2. Both the Claws of the Crook (or C) turn upwards, so that they cannot take hold of any thing that may rise under the Plough: The Use of the Notches is to help the Direction of the Point of the Share, which has been described by the prick’d Lines under Fig. 1. As the Point of the Share wears, it inclines a little more towards the Right, and is remedied by moving the Crook into a Notch nearer to the Left, which will direct the Point a little more towards the Left: This is more easy to be done here than in the common Plough, whose Collar moves round the Beam: We can, by changing the Crook from one Notch to another, incline the Point of the Share towards the Right or Left at Pleasure. The Length of each Side of this Collar is a Foot long.

Fig. 19. The Iron Collar is attached to the Beam by two short hooks A and B, which connect to two short pins driven into the plow just behind the second coulter hole, one on each side of the Beam. Hook A is on the left side of the Beam near c, while Hook B is doing the same on the other side of the Beam, seen near a, in Fig. 2.. C is the Hook (named C for its shape) that holds the tow chain to the Collar via Link D, which is part of the same chain connecting to its fore claw; the other claw attaches to one of the five notches on the Collar. This Collar is partly visible at d, in Fig. 2.. Both claws of Hook C point upwards, preventing them from grabbing anything that may rise beneath the plow. The notches help direct the point of the share, which has been outlined by the dotted lines under Fig. 1.. As the point of the share wears down, it tilts slightly to the right, and this can be corrected by moving the hook to a notch closer to the left, which will direct the point a bit more to the left. This adjustment is easier to do here than with a common plow, where the collar rotates around the beam. By changing the hook from one notch to another, we can tilt the point of the share to the right or left as needed. Each side of this collar measures one foot in length.

The Tow-chain is best seen in Fig. 3. where the Link Y is that which passes thro’ the Box, and is pinned in by the Stake, as has been shewn in Fig. 1. which Stake is commonly nailed to the Box, to prevent its rising up. When we would draw up the Plough a little nearer to the Crow-staves, we take hold of the Crook by a Second or Third Link.[305] Note, That the shortening of the Chain does also a little incline the Point of the Share towards the Left.

The Tow-chain is best seen in Fig. 3. where Link Y passes through the Box and is secured by the Stake, as shown in Fig. 1.. This Stake is usually nailed to the Box to stop it from rising up. When we want to pull the Plough a bit closer to the Crow-staves, we grab the Crook by a Second or Third Link.[305] Note: Shortening the Chain also slightly tilts the Point of the Share towards the Left.

Iron wilds

Fig. 20. is the Iron-wilds. The Leg A is of one Piece with that which has the Notch, and that passes thro’ the Leg B by the Loop at a; both which Legs pass thro’ the Box, and are pinned in behind it, by the crooked Pins C, D. This Figure is seen with its Crooks on it, both in Fig. 1. and Fig. 2. Note, That the Holes in the Box, thro’ which these Legs pass, must not be made at right Angles with the Box, but must incline upwards, so that the Fore-part of the Wilds may be higher than the Hinder-part, or else the Upper-part of the Crow-staves would lean quite back when the Plough is drawn. If the Beasts that draw immediately next to the Plough be very high, their Traces must be the longer; else they and the Wilds making too small an Angle with the Tow-chain at the Box, when they draw hard, the Wheels will rise from the Ground, and be apt to overturn: This Angle I suppose should not be less than of 160 Degrees, and the Angle made by the Tow-chain or Traces that are drawn by the Cattle that go before them, will make an Angle with the Tow-chain at the Box yet much more obtuse. The Use of these Notches in the Wilds is, to give the Plough a broader or narrower Furrow: If the Links are moved to the Notches on the right Hand, it brings the Wheels towards the left Hand, which gives a greater Furrow; and when the Links are moved towards the left Hand, it gives a less Furrow, by bringing the Wheels towards the right Hand.

Fig. 20. is the Iron-wilds. The Leg A is connected to the part with the Notch and passes through Leg B by the Loop at a; both Legs go through the Box and are secured behind it with the crooked Pins C and D. This figure can be seen with its Crooks on it, both in Fig. 1. and Fig. 2. Note, that the Holes in the Box, through which these Legs pass, should not be made at right angles to the Box, but should tilt upwards, so that the front part of the Wilds is higher than the back part, otherwise, the upper part of the Crow-staves will lean too far back when the plow is drawn. If the animals pulling next to the plow are very tall, their Traces must be longer; otherwise, they and the Wilds will form too small an angle with the tow-chain at the Box, and when they pull hard, the wheels will lift off the ground and risk overturning. I believe this angle should be no less than 160 degrees, and the angle made by the tow-chain or Traces drawn by the animals in front will create an even more obtuse angle with the tow-chain at the Box. The purpose of these Notches in the Wilds is to allow the plow to create a wider or narrower Furrow: Moving the Links to the Notches on the right side brings the Wheels to the left, resulting in a wider Furrow; whereas moving the Links to the left side results in a narrower Furrow by bringing the Wheels to the right.

The Distance betwixt the Two Legs of the Wilds is Eight Inches and an half; the Length of the Legs is Nineteen Inches. They must be of convenient Strength. The Links being placed in Notches distant from one another, prevents one Wheel from advanceing before the other; which would happen, if the Links were both in One Notch, or in Two adjoining[306] Notches, except they were middle Notches: These Links are each Six Inches and an half long.

The distance between the two legs of the wilds is eight and a half inches; the length of the legs is nineteen inches. They need to have enough strength. The links are placed in notches that are spaced apart, which stops one wheel from moving ahead of the other; this would occur if the links were both in one notch or in two adjacent notches, unless they were in middle notches. Each of these links is six and a half inches long.[306]

E is the Ring, by which the Two Links, and the Two Crooks F and G, are held together, and on which they all move.

E is the Ring that holds the Two Links and the Two Crooks F and G together, and on which they all move.

The Height of the Wheels in Fig. 2. The left-hand Wheel is Twenty Inches Diameter; the Diameter of the right Wheel is Two Feet Three Inches; the Distance the Wheels are set from each other at the Ground, is Two Feet Five Inches and an half; the Crow-staves are One Foot Eleven Inches high, from the Box to the Gallows; they both stand perpendicular to the Box, and the Distance between the Crow-staves is Ten Inches and an half. The Pillow is pinned up at its Ends by Two small Iron Pins, which are chained to it, that if they drop, they may not be lost. These appear in Fig. 1. and Fig. 2. The Height from the level Surface, up to the Hole in the Box, where the Tow-chain passes through it, is Thirteen Inches (being Two Inches below the Holes of the Wilds, on the Hinder-side of the Box); the Height at the other End, where the Crook of the Collar takes hold of the Pin in the Beam at c, in Fig. 2. is Twenty Inches high above the same level Surface, and shews how much the Chain descends forward, for drawing down the Plough, and by which Descent may be known what Angle the Chain would make with the Surface, if it were produced forwards in a strait Line; which is a thing material for the good going of a Plough; and so is the Angle the Tow-chain makes with the Beam: About the Middle of this Tow-chain, there should be a Swivel, whereby one End of the Chain may turn without the other.

The Height of the Wheels in Fig. 2. The left Wheel is 20 inches in diameter; the right Wheel has a diameter of 2 feet 3 inches. The distance between the Wheels at the ground is 2 feet 5.5 inches; the Crow-staves are 1 foot 11 inches tall, from the Box to the Gallows. They both stand straight up from the Box, and the distance between the Crow-staves is 10.5 inches. The Pillow is secured at its ends with two small iron pins that are chained to it, so if they fall, they won't get lost. These appear in Fig. 1. and Fig. 2. The height from the level surface to the hole in the Box, where the Tow-chain goes through, is 13 inches (which is 2 inches below the holes of the Wilds on the back side of the Box); the height at the other end, where the collar's crook attaches to the pin in the beam at c, in Fig. 2. is 20 inches above the same level surface, indicating how much the Chain dips forward for pulling down the plough. This drop shows what angle the Chain would form with the surface if it were extended forward in a straight line, which is important for the proper functioning of a plough. The angle the Tow-chain makes with the Beam is also significant. About the middle of this Tow-chain, there should be a swivel, allowing one end of the Chain to turn independently of the other.

When this Four coulter Plough is made, I would advise, that it be tried with only the first Coulter, before the other Three are put in; for if the Plough does not go well with One Coulter, it is not likely it should go well with Four; and I never yet have seen[307] or heard of any that went well with One Coulter, that did not also go well with Four, being placed as is here directed.

When this four-coulter plow is made, I recommend testing it with just the first coulter before adding the other three. If the plow doesn't perform well with one coulter, it's unlikely to work well with four. I have never seen or heard of any plow that worked well with one coulter and didn't also work well with four, when set up as instructed here.[307]

Plate II

Plate II. P. 307

Plate 2. P. 307

B Cole Delin et Sculp

B Cole Delin and Sculpt

The Proofs of a Plough’s performing well are these; viz. If it makes a Furrow of an equal Depth on the right Hand and on the left, and turns it off fairly: If, in its going, the Tail of the Share, and the Bottom of the Drock, bear against the Bottom of the Furrow; and if it goes easy in the Hands of the Holder, without pressing one Arm more than the other; then the Plough is certainly a good one.

The signs of a plough working well are these: namely, if it creates a furrow of equal depth on both the right and left sides, and turns the soil over neatly; if, while moving, the tail of the share and the bottom of the draught make contact with the bottom of the furrow; and if it operates smoothly in the hands of the user, without putting extra pressure on one side over the other; then the plough is definitely a good one.

The Ploughman who is accustom’d to a Two-wheel’d Plough, never suffers the Wheels to overturn, in turning out at the Land’s End, from one Furrow to another; for which Purpose, after he has lifted the Plough a little round, he has a Knack of holding up the Crow-staves with the End of the Beam, by pressing his Hand hard against the Handle, whilst the Plough lies down on one Side, until the Horses, the Wheels, and the Plough, come near to a Line in the Beginning of the Furrow; and then he lifts up his Plough, and goes on.

The Ploughman who is used to a two-wheeled plow never lets the wheels tip over when turning at the end of the field, moving from one furrow to another. To do this, after he has lifted the plow a bit, he skillfully holds up the crow-staves with the end of the beam by pressing his hand firmly against the handle while the plow is tilted to one side until the horses, the wheels, and the plow align with the start of the furrow. Then he lifts the plow and continues on.


CHAP. XX.
Of the Drill-Boxes.

The Drill is the Engine that plants our Corn and other Seeds in Rows: It makes the Chanels, sows the Seed into them, and covers them at the same time, with great Exactness and Expedition.

The drill is the machine that plants our corn and other seeds in rows. It creates the channels, sows the seeds into them, and covers them up at the same time, with great precision and speed.

Turnip seed box

The principal Parts of the Drill are, the Seed-box, the Hopper, and the Plough, with its Harrow.

The main parts of the drill are the seed box, the hopper, and the plow, along with its harrow.

Of these the Seed-box is the Chief: It measures (or rather numbers) out the Seed which it receives[308] from the Hopper: It is for this Purpose as an artificial Hand, which performs the Task of delivering out the Seed, more equally than can be done by a natural Hand.

Of these, the Seed-box is the main one: It measures (or rather counts) the seeds it gets[308] from the Hopper. It serves as a mechanical hand, accomplishing the job of distributing the seeds more evenly than a human hand could.

It is described, together with some of its Appurtenances, in Plates 2 and 3.

It is described, along with some of its additional features, in Plates 2 and 3.

The Mortise Joint.

As the Seed-box is the principal Part of a Drill, so is the Mortise the principal Part of the Seed-box.

As the seed box is the main part of a drill, the mortise is the main part of the seed box.

The following Descriptions shew how this Mortise differs from a common Mortise.

The following descriptions show how this mortise differs from a standard mortise.

Fig. 1. Plate 2. shews both the upper and lower Edges of a Turnep-Seed-box, and the Manner how they are posited one over another, a b c d is a rectangled Parallelogram, and shews the upper Edges (or Top) of the Mortise. e f g h, being a Figure of the same Denomination with the former, is the lower Edges (or Bottom) of the Mortise. The Line e h is the Length of the lower Edge of the Hinder-end of the Mortise. a d is the upper Edge of the Hinder-end of the Mortise, and posited just over the lower Edge of the same End. The Space between the Line a b, and the Line e f, shews half the Excess whereby the Bottom of the Mortise exceeds the Top in Breadth; as the Space on the opposite Side, betwixt the Line c d, and the Line g h, shews the other Half of that Excess, both which Halves, taken together, shew the whole Bevel (or Angle of Inclination) described in Fig. 2. That Part of the Line a b, from the Angle at b to the Line f g, which intersects it, shews the Excess whereby the Top of the Mortise exceeds the Bottom in Length.

Fig. 1. Plate 2. shows both the upper and lower edges of a turnip seed box, and how they are positioned one above the other. a b c d is a rectangular parallelogram, representing the upper edges (or top) of the mortise. e f g h, being a figure of the same type as the former, represents the lower edges (or bottom) of the mortise. The line e h is the length of the lower edge of the back end of the mortise. a d is the upper edge of the back end of the mortise, positioned directly above the lower edge of the same end. The space between line a b and line e f shows half the excess by which the bottom of the mortise is wider than the top; similarly, the space on the opposite side, between line c d and line g h, shows the other half of that excess. Both halves combined show the total bevel (or angle of inclination) described in Fig. 2.. That part of line a b from the corner at b to line f g, which intersects it, shows the excess by which the top of the mortise is longer than the bottom.

Fig. 2. Is the Mortise cut down by its Four Corners, and laid open. a b c d is a Trapezium, with Two parallel Sides, and mark’d A, the right Side of the Mortise; its opposite Side e f g h, mark’d B,[309] the left Side of the Mortise; the Areas of both being true Planes[261].

Fig. 2. Is the Mortise cut down by its Four Corners, and laid open. a b c d is a trapezoid, with two parallel sides, marked A, which is the right side of the Mortise; its opposite side e f g h, marked B, is the left side of the Mortise; the areas of both being true planes[261].

[261]Take care that these opposite Sides be sure to be true Planes, especially all that Part of their Areas, that is before the transverse Axes of their Ellipses herein after described; for should they be otherwise, the Bevel of the Mortise would be spoiled, and so would the Ellipses, and the acute Triangles, on the Sides of the Tongue; which how necessary they are to be true, is shewn in the proper Place. Workmen are very apt to fail in this when they file by Hand, and make these Sides of the Mortise convex instead of plane. Therefore this might be done with less Difficulty, and more Exactness, with a File placed in a Frame, whereby it might move upon a true Level without rising or sinking of either End.

[261]Make sure that these opposite sides are true flat surfaces, especially the part of their areas that is in front of the transverse axes of the ellipses that will be described later. If they aren’t, the angle of the mortise will be ruined, along with the ellipses and the sharp triangles on the sides of the tongue. How important it is for them to be true will be explained in the appropriate section. Workers often make mistakes in this when they file by hand, creating convex sides for the mortise instead of flat ones. Therefore, this task could be done with less difficulty and greater accuracy by using a file mounted in a frame, allowing it to move on a true level without tilting up or down at either end.

Turnip seed box

d i k h Shew the Fore-end of the Mortise, mark’d C. a l m e shew the Hinder-end of the Mortise, mark’d D. a d h e shew the Bottom of the Mortise already described in Fig. 1. If these opposite Sides and Ends were all raised up, until the Angle at b join the Angle at l, and that at m join f, and that at g join k, and that i join c, the Top of the Mortise would be formed, and the same with the Parallelogram a b c d, in Fig. 1. and then the intire Mortise of the Turnep Seed-box would appear in its true Form, standing upon its Bottom.

d i k h shows the front end of the mortise, marked C. a l m e shows the back end of the mortise, marked D. a d h e shows the bottom of the mortise already described in Fig. 1.. If these opposite sides and ends were all raised up until the angle at b meets the angle at l, and that at m connects with f, and that at g connects with k, and that i connects with c, the top of the mortise would be formed, and the same goes for the parallelogram a b c d, in Fig. 1., and then the entire mortise of the Turnep seed box would appear in its true form, standing on its bottom.

This differs from a common Mortise, in that it is impossible to fit it with a Tenon; because it is narrower above, and shorter below, as in Fig. 1.

This is different from a regular mortise because it can't be fitted with a tenon; it's narrower at the top and shorter at the bottom, like in Fig. 1.

The Areas, or imaginary Planes, of the Top and Bottom of the Mortise, are parallel to each other, but not equal.

The Areas, or imaginary Planes, of the Top and Bottom of the Mortise, are parallel to each other, but not equal.

Its Two opposite Sides are equal, but not parallel, by reason of their Inclination to each other upwards, which is the Bevel hereafter to be described.

Its two opposite sides are equal, but not parallel, due to their upward inclination towards each other, which is the bevel that will be described later.

The Two Ends are neither parallel nor equal, because the Hinder-end D is perpendicular to the Top and Bottom, and the Fore-end oblique, and therefore longer.

The two ends are neither parallel nor equal, because the back end D is perpendicular to the top and bottom, while the front end is slanted, making it longer.

[310]

[310]

When Two opposite Sides, or Surfaces, are inclined to each other upwards, I call that Inclination a Bevel; but when they are inclined downwards, I call it a Bevel revers’d.

When two opposite sides or surfaces are angled upwards towards each other, I refer to that angle as a bevel; however, when they are angled downwards towards each other, I call it a reversed bevel.

The Line a e, being the Bottom, or Base, of the Hinder-end D, by being longer than the Line l m, shews that the Mortise is bevel.

The Line a e, being the bottom or base of the back end D, is longer than the Line l m, which indicates that the mortise is beveled.

The Two prick’d Lines m n and l o, with the Line l m, and Part of the Line a e, make a rectangled Parallelogram, which shews the exact Depth of the Mortise, and forms on each Side of it a rectangled Triangle, the one m e n, and the other l o a; which Triangles being similar and equal, and their acute Angles at l and m being each of Four Degrees, make the whole Bevel, or Inclination of the Sides of the Mortise, to be of Eight Degrees, their Hypothenuses being the same with the Sides of the Mortise.

The two marked lines m n and l o, along with the line l m and part of the line a e, create a rectangular parallelogram that shows the exact depth of the mortise and forms a right triangle on each side of it: one triangle m e n and the other l o a. These triangles are similar and equal, with their acute angles at l and m each measuring four degrees, which means the overall bevel or incline of the sides of the mortise is eight degrees, with their hypotenuses matching the sides of the mortise.

This End D, being raised up to its Place, will be at right Angles with the Plane of the Top and of the Bottom of the Mortise; which, being both rectangled Parallelograms, prove that Bevel, or Angle of Inclination, to be the same from one End to the other of the Sides, which Sides are the Hypothenuses of those Two Triangles: But this could not be proved by the Triangles in the opposite End C; because the Bases being the same with the other, and having their Legs longer, the vertical Angles at k and i are more acute. The Legs are longer; because the End C, when in its Place, is not at right Angles with the Top and Bottom of the Mortise, as the End D is.

This End D, once raised into position, will be at right angles to the plane of the top and the bottom of the mortise. Since both are rectangular parallelograms, this shows that the bevel, or angle of inclination, is the same from one end to the other of the sides, which are the hypotenuses of those two triangles. However, this couldn’t be demonstrated using the triangles at the opposite end C because the bases are the same as the others, but their legs are longer, making the vertical angles at k and i more acute. The legs are longer because when End C is in position, it’s not at right angles with the top and bottom of the mortise like End D is.

Wheat drill mortise

The next thing to be described in the Mortise, is the Bore, great Hole, or Perforation; which is best shewn in the Side of a Mortise of a Wheat-drill, being larger, as in Fig. 3. wherein c e b d is the great Hole, and is a Section of an hollow Cylinder, that passes through the Mortise, with its Axis parallel to the Edges of the Ends of the Mortise: This[311] Cylinder, being cut by the Side of the Mortise obliquely, and not parallel to its Base, is an Ellipse.

The next thing to describe in the Mortise is the Bore, the big hole or opening, which is best illustrated on the side of a Mortise of a wheat drill. It's larger, as shown in Fig. 3. where c e b d represents the big hole and is a cross-section of a hollow cylinder that goes through the Mortise, with its axis parallel to the edges of the ends of the Mortise. This[311] cylinder, when cut by the side of the Mortise at an angle and not parallel to its base, forms an ellipse.

The prick’d curve Line is a Circle parallel to the Base of the Cylinder, and the curve Line b d c e is the Ellipsis; and this Curve is more or less elliptical (or oval) in proportion to the Angle of Inclination, or Bevel, of the Sides of the Mortise.

The dotted curve line is a circle that runs parallel to the base of the cylinder, and the curve line b d c e represents an ellipse. This curve is more or less elliptical (or oval) depending on the angle of inclination or bevel of the sides of the mortise.

Of this Ellipse the longest Diameter (or Axis transversus) b c is at right Angles with the upper and lower Edges of the Sides of the Mortise.

Of this ellipse, the longest diameter (or transverse axis) b c is at a right angle to the upper and lower edges of the sides of the mortise.

Its shortest Diameter (or Axis rectus) d e, is the Diameter of the Cylinder, bisecting the Axis transversus at right Angles in the Centre a; and is in this Figure one Inch and an half.

Its shortest diameter (or axis rectus) d e is the diameter of the cylinder, cutting through the axis transversus at right angles in the center a; and in this figure, it measures one and a half inches.

This Ellipse being concentric with the Circle, the Letter a is the Centre of both.

This ellipse is centered on the circle, with the letter a being the center of both.

The Semi-ellipsis c e b is the Part of chief Use; and therefore the Edge must of Necessity be smooth, and without Flaws, as must the Surfaces of the Sides of the Mortise betwixt the Ellipse and the Fore-end.

The Semi-ellipsis c e b is the main part of use; so the edge has to be smooth and flawless, just like the surfaces of the sides of the mortise between the ellipse and the front end.

Seed box tongue Seed box tongue

The Tongue of the Seed-box (Plate 3. Fig. 1.) differs from that in the Sound-board of an Organ (from which I took the Idea of it) in Shape, in Situation, and in the Manner of its being fix’d to the Mortise.

The Tongue of the Seed-box (Plate 3. Fig. 1.) is different from the one in the Sound-board of an Organ (which inspired this idea) in its shape, position, and how it's secured to the Mortise.

The Tongue, in the Organ, is on its Surface a long Square, or rectangled Parallelogram, a little broader and longer than the Mortise (or Grove) it shuts against; but this Tongue on its upper Surface, which is here turned downwards, being a Plane, is a Trapezium, of the same Shape with the Fore-end of the Mortise just now described, except that the Tongue has a less Bevel.

The tongue, in the organ, is flat and shaped like a long rectangle or parallelogram, slightly wider and longer than the mortise (or groove) it fits into; however, this tongue has an upper surface that’s turned downwards, making it flat and trapezoidal. It has the same shape as the front end of the mortise just mentioned, except that the tongue has a less pronounced bevel.

The Situation of that in the Organ is on the Outside of the Mortise, which it shuts by its Spring behind it, and opens immediately by the Finger of the Organist pressing down the Key to let in the compressed Air to its Pipes; but this Tongue is situate[312] within the Mortise of the Seed-box, and placed almost, in a manner, diagonally; for, had it been placed like the other, the Seed getting betwixt it and the Edges of the Mortise, would not have given Way to its Shutting (as the Air does to the other), but have kept it always open; which would have render’d it useless for sowing of Seeds.

The situation of the organ's components is on the outside of the mortise, which it closes with its spring behind it, and opens immediately when the organist presses down the key to allow the compressed air into its pipes. However, this tongue is located within the mortise of the seed box, positioned almost diagonally; because if it had been placed like the other, the seeds getting in between it and the edges of the mortise would not have allowed it to close (like the air does with the other) but would have kept it always open, making it ineffective for sowing seeds.[312]

Seed box assembly

The Manner of fastening the Organ-tongue to its Mortise is by Parchment and Leather glu’d to its Surface, and also to the Sound-board, at its End which is opposite to that pressed open by the Key, and shut by the Spring; but this our Tongue is held within the Mortise, and moves on an Axis, which passes thro’ its upper and narrower End, which Axis is the Pin A (which must be exactly parallel to the Edge of the End of the Mortise), and also thro’ the Hole f in Fig. 3. in Plate 2. which is seen in its Place at A in Fig. 3. Plate 3. and likewise through both Sides of the Mortise near their upper Edges, and as near the Fore-end of the Mortise as may be, without the Tongue’s rubbing against the said Fore-end.

The way to attach the organ tongue to its slot is by using parchment and leather glued to its surface, and also to the soundboard at the end opposite the side pressed by the key and closed by the spring. Our tongue is held within the slot and moves on an axis that goes through its upper and narrower end. This axis is pin A (which must be perfectly parallel to the edge of the end of the slot) and also through hole f in Fig. 3. in Plate 2. that can be seen in its position at A in Fig. 3. Plate 3. and through both sides of the slot near their upper edges, as close to the front end of the slot as possible, without the tongue rubbing against that front end.

The Breadth of the Tongue must be conformed to the Breadth and Bevel of the Mortise, and when it is on its Axis, it being raised tight up as far as the short prick’d Line l m in Fig. 3. Plate 2. being One-eighth Part of the great Hole, and being there, you see its upper Edges touch both Sides of the Mortise by their whole Length: Then it is rightly made: and by this touching both Sides of the Mortise tightly and closely, when raised up to that Degree, it appears, that the Two upper Edges of the Sides of the Tongue are inclined to each other in an Angle that is more acute, by about One-third, than is the Angle of Inclination of the Sides of the Mortise.

The width of the tongue must match the width and slope of the mortise, and when it’s aligned properly, raised all the way up to the short dotted line l m in Fig. 3. Plate 2., which is one-eighth of the large hole, you will see that its upper edges touch both sides of the mortise along their entire length. At this point, it’s correctly made. By touching both sides of the mortise tightly and securely when raised to that level, it becomes clear that the two upper edges of the tongue’s sides are angled towards each other at a sharper angle, being about one-third more acute than the angle of inclination of the sides of the mortise.

Hence, when the Tongue is let down to its Place, there will be on each Side of it an empty Space, betwixt it and the Mortise, of the Form of a very[313] acute Triangle, whose vertical Angle is more or less acute, according as the Tongue approaches nearer to, or recedes farther from the Spindle.

Hence, when the tongue is lowered to its position, there will be an empty space on each side of it, between it and the mortise, shaped like a very[313] acute triangle, with its top angle being more or less sharp, depending on whether the tongue moves closer to or farther from the spindle.

This Fig. 1. Plate 3. is the brass Tongue with its Back-side upwards. The Two outer Lines a b and c d are the Edges of the upper Surface (tho’ turned downwards in this Figure), which are inclined to each other, as afore-mentioned; but the Two inner Lines e f and g h are nearer to each other, whereby this under Surface is narrower than the upper: Both must be plain Surfaces, but the upper and its Two Edges very free from Flaws, and smooth, or polished.

This Fig. 1. Plate 3. is the brass tongue with its backside facing up. The two outer lines a b and c d are the edges of the upper surface (even though they're turned down in this figure), which are slanted towards each other, as mentioned earlier; but the two inner lines e f and g h are closer together, making this underside narrower than the top. Both should be flat surfaces, but the top and its two edges must be completely free of flaws and smooth or polished.

The Reason why the under Surface is narrower than the upper, is to preserve the Bevel of the empty Triangle: For though the Bevel of the Sides of the Mortise would be sufficient for this, if both Sides of the Tongue were sure to keep equally distant from the Spindle; yet as the Tongue never is so tight on its Axis, but that sometimes one Corner of it may be nearer to the Spindle than the other, in this Case, that Side which is nearest to the Spindle would reverse that Bevel, so as to make the small empty Space that is betwixt the Mortise and the Tongue, wider above than underneath.

The reason the underside is narrower than the top is to maintain the angle of the empty triangle. Even though the angle of the sides of the mortise would be enough for this if both sides of the tongue stayed evenly spaced from the spindle, the tongue is never perfectly tight on its axis. Sometimes one corner of it might end up closer to the spindle than the other. In this situation, the side that is nearest to the spindle would alter that angle, causing the small empty space between the mortise and the tongue to be wider at the top than at the bottom.

C C are the Two little Knobs that prevent the Spring from slipping to either Side, and are at the Distance from one another of the Breadth of the Spring.

C C are the two small knobs that stop the spring from sliding to either side, and they are spaced apart by the width of the spring.

Fig. 2. shews one Side, and the Thickness of the Tongue the other Side, being the same. a b shews the polished Surface (being a true Plane), whereon the Seed runs down to the Spindle. c d the Back-side, which lies turned uppermost in Fig. 1. b e d shews one End of the hollow Cylinder of the Tongue, thro’ which its Axis passes.

Fig. 2. shows one side, and the thickness of the tongue shows the other side, which are the same. a b shows the polished surface (which is a true plane) where the seed goes down to the spindle. c d is the back side, which faces up in Fig. 1. b e d shows one end of the hollow cylinder of the tongue, through which its axis passes.

The Length of the Tongue must be such, as will reach lower than just to touch the Bottom of the[314] great Hole as a Tangent: for, if it be not longer than that, it might happen, that when the Mortise is empty of Seed, and the Tongue set up close, a Wheel might, in Turning, or otherwise, go a little backwards, and cause a Notch of the Spindle to take hold of the End of the Tongue, and tear it out of the Mortise: Therefore let the Tongue reach a little below the Spindle, as the pricked Line g h, in Fig. 3. of Plate 2. doth.

The length of the tongue should be long enough to reach just below the bottom of the[314] big hole as a tangent. If it’s not longer than that, there’s a chance that when the mortise is empty of seed and the tongue is set in place, a wheel might slightly move backward when turning. This could cause a notch on the spindle to catch the end of the tongue and pull it out of the mortise. So, the tongue should extend a bit below the spindle, like the dotted line g h in Fig. 3. of Plate 2..

As for the Posture in which the Tongue ought to stand in the Mortise, it is shewn by the Three pricked Lines in Fig. 3. Plate 2. where the pricked Line g h makes an Angle of Forty-five Degrees, being the nearest that it can stand to the Spindle; the pricked Line i h makes a somewhat greater Angle, and it is a mean (or middle) Distance from the Spindle; and the pricked Line k h is supposed to be its greatest Distance, where the Tongue makes its greatest Angle with the Top and Bottom of the Mortise. If the Tongue stood so obliquely as to make an Angle much less than Forty-Five, the Tongue would rise too much against the Bevel of the Mortise, and the Spring would have the greater Difficulty in returning it to its Place, when driven back by the Force of the Notches.

As for the position that the tongue should hold in the mortise, it's shown by the three dotted lines in Fig. 3. Plate 2. where the dotted line g h forms an angle of forty-five degrees, being the closest it can be to the spindle; the dotted line i h forms a slightly larger angle, placing it at a middle distance from the spindle; and the dotted line k h represents its furthest distance, where the tongue makes its largest angle with the top and bottom of the mortise. If the tongue were positioned at a steep angle that’s much less than forty-five degrees, it would rise too high against the bevel of the mortise, making it harder for the spring to return it to its place when pushed back by the force of the notches.

And beside, when the Tongue stood wide from the Spindle, there might be so much Room betwixt it and the Sides of the Mortise, that some Seeds might fall thro’ there.

And besides, when the Tongue was pulled wide from the Spindle, there might be enough space between it and the sides of the Mortise for some seeds to fall through.

The Steel Spring is D, properly placed upon the Back of the Tongue, in Fig. 1. Plate 3.

The Steel Spring is D, correctly positioned on the back of the tongue, in Fig. 1. Plate 3.

At first, I made the Spring double, i. e. with Two Legs, in Imitation of that in the Organ, and fastened into its Tongue, much after the same manner as the Spring of the Organ is into its Tongue or Flap, which prevents the compressed Air from passing out of the Sound-board, except whilst the Key is thrust[315] down by the Finger of the Player; but the Drill-spring requiring to be of a vastly greater Strength than that, I made it of Steel, of the Breadth of half an Inch, instead of Brass Wire: This performed very well, and several Drills are yet extant, that have only this Sort of Springs: Yet I found there was great Difficulty to set the Legs at their due Distance from each other; for their Seasoning would alter them from what they were, whilst the Steel was soft: They also took up too much Room in the upper Part of the Mortise. Then, to remedy these Inconveniencies, I made it single, with only one Leg, which by full Experience is found to be much better than the double one; it does not contain a Fourth Part of the Metal, and is most easily made, requiring none of that Trouble and Nicety that the double Spring doth. I shall therefore give a Description of the single Spring only.

At first, I created the Spring double, i. e. with Two Legs, similar to the one in the Organ, and attached it to its Tongue, much like how the Spring of the Organ is connected to its Tongue or Flap, preventing the compressed Air from escaping the Sound-board, except when the Key is pressed down by the Player's Finger; however, since the Drill-spring needed to be much stronger than that, I made it out of Steel, with a width of half an Inch, instead of Brass Wire: This worked very well, and several Drills still exist that only use this kind of Spring: Yet, I found it was very difficult to position the Legs at the right distance from each other because their Seasoning altered them while the Steel was soft: They also took up too much space in the upper part of the Mortise. To address these issues, I made it single, with only one Leg, which experience has shown to be much better than the double one; it uses less than a fourth of the Metal and is much easier to make, requiring none of the trouble and precision that the double Spring does. I will therefore describe the single Spring only.

B, the End of the Screw, which holds the Spring to the Tongue, thro’ a Hole near the upper End of the Spring; D, the Middle, against which the End of the Setting-screw bears.

B, the end of the screw, which secures the spring to the tongue, through a hole near the upper end of the spring; D, the middle, against which the end of the setting screw rests.

Its Length is almost the whole Length of the Tongue; the End E reaching very near to the lower End of the Tongue, and the End B is as near the upper End of the Tongue; as it can be placed without touching the Cylinder of the Tongue.

Its length is nearly the entire length of the tongue; the end E reaches close to the lower end of the tongue, and the end B is positioned just below the upper end of the tongue, as close as possible without touching the cylinder of the tongue.

The Breadth is usually about half an Inch; the Thickness must be in proportion to its other Dimensions, and according to the Degree of Stiffness required.

The width is usually about half an inch; the thickness should match its other dimensions and depend on how stiff it needs to be.

The longer it is, the thicker it must be, to have the same Stiffness; but the broader it is, the thinner it must be of the same Length; so that it is hard to determine its Thickness. It is made stiffer or stronger by being cut shorter; it is made weaker, or less stiff, by filing or grinding it either thinner or narrower.

The longer it is, the thicker it needs to be to maintain the same stiffness; however, the wider it is, the thinner it should be at the same length. This makes it difficult to determine its thickness. Cutting it shorter makes it stiffer or stronger; filing or grinding it down either thinner or narrower makes it weaker or less stiff.

[316]

[316]

The common Thickness is about that of a Shilling[262].

The usual thickness is about that of a shilling. A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

[262]Not quite so thick as a milled Shilling, but rather of an old broad stamped Shilling, which is a little thinner.

[262]Not quite as thick as a minted shilling, but more like an old broad stamped shilling, which is a bit thinner.

The Degrees of Stiffness are measured in this manner; viz. Fix Two Boards together, leaving a Chink betwixt them, in one Place of an Inch long; lay the Spring (when seasoned across this Chink) with its Middle exactly over it; then put a String over the Spring, which may pass with both Ends thro’ the Chink, and tie so much Weight to the Ends of the String under the Boards, that will pull down the Middle of the Spring, till it touch the Chink, and is strait with both its Ends; This will shew the Degree of Stiffness. But note, That the Spring must be crooked, and bear only upon its Ends, with the hollow Side upwards.

The degrees of stiffness are measured like this: First, fasten two boards together, leaving a gap of one inch in one spot. Place the spring (once it’s seasoned) across this gap, centering it right over the opening. Then, lay a string over the spring, allowing both ends to go through the gap, and attach enough weight to the ends of the string beneath the boards to pull the middle of the spring down until it touches the gap and is straight with both ends. This will indicate the degree of stiffness. However, note that the spring must be bent, resting only on its ends, with the hollow side facing upwards.

If ten or a dozen Pounds Weight pull it down to the Board, it is a good Degree of Stiffness, for a large Box: We are not confined to be very nice or exact in the Degree of Stiffness; for by our Fingers pressing it, we that are practised in it, know well enough, whether a Spring be of a sufficient Degree of Stiffness, without weighing it; but for such who are unacquainted with them, it is best not to trust to Guess, but Weights; and to adjust the Stiffness to that of a Spring, that has been known to perform well.

If ten or twelve pounds pull it down to the board, that's a good level of stiffness for a large box. We don't need to be overly precise about how stiff it is; those of us who are experienced can tell just by pressing it whether a spring has enough stiffness without having to weigh it. However, for those who aren't familiar with them, it's better not to guess but to use weights, and to adjust the stiffness to match that of a spring known to perform well.

The Spring must bear against the Back of the Tongue at each End, and lie hollow in the Middle: But the Degree of Hollowness of the Spring is very material; for thereon depends the Distance of the Tongue’s Motion towards the Spindle by Force of the Spring, and back again quite to the Setting-screw, by the Seed that is pressed against it by Force of the Notches, when they are moved by the Wheels; because the more the Spring is curved, the farther[317] will it thrust the Tongue from its Middle, if its Strength be superior to the Force that resists it, as it ought to be when a Notch is passed and before the next: This Motion of the Tongue is called its Play.

The spring should press against the back of the tongue at both ends and be hollow in the middle. However, the degree of hollowness in the spring is very important; it affects how far the tongue can move towards the spindle due to the spring's force, and then back to the setting screw by the pressure from the seed against it, which is caused by the notches moving when the wheels turn. The more the spring is bent, the further it will push the tongue away from the middle, provided that its strength is greater than the opposing force, which it needs to be when one notch is passed and before the next one. This movement of the tongue is referred to as its play.

In order to measure the Distance (or Quantity) of this Motion, we must consider, that the Tongue, moving on its Axis above, describes with its lower End the Arch of a Circle, the Chord of which Arch is the Measure required.

To measure the Distance (or Amount) of this Motion, we need to keep in mind that the Tongue, rotating on its Axis above, traces out an Arc of a Circle with its lower End, and the Chord of that Arc is the Measure we need.

To measure this by the Angle the Tongue makes at its Centre, would be no Rule for making Boxes; because some Tongues are longer, some shorter, in proportion to the different Diameters of the Spindles they move against; and yet the Play of the shortest must be as much as that of the longest, that is, it must describe as great an Arch at the Place of Pressure (described in Fig. 3. Plate 2.); and therefore the shortest Tongue would make the greatest Angle.

To measure this by the angle the tongue makes at its center wouldn’t be a reliable way to make boxes, because some tongues are longer and some are shorter, depending on the different diameters of the spindles they work against. Still, the movement of the shortest tongue must be just as much as that of the longest, meaning it has to create as large an arc at the point of pressure (described in Fig. 3. Plate 2.); therefore, the shortest tongue would create the largest angle.

A short and easy Way, then, for a Mechanic to measure, is thus: Screw in the Setting-screw until the Tongue come within a quarter of an Inch of touching the Spindle; then take out the Spindle, and from the Centre of the Hole draw a Line on the Side of the Mortise, perpendicular to the Tongue, and at the Tongue’s Edge make a Mark with the Compasses, or a Pen; then force back the Tongue against the Setting-screw as far as it will go (that is, until the Spring touch the whole Back of the Tongue); produce the said Line to the same Edge of the Tongue, or set the End of the Rule thereon, and draw another Line, by the Rule, from the Mark to the Edge of the Tongue, when farthest back, and there make the second Mark. The Ruler used this Way will shew both the Perpendicular, and the Measure.

A simple and straightforward way for a mechanic to measure is as follows: Screw in the setting screw until the tongue is within a quarter of an inch from touching the spindle; then remove the spindle, and from the center of the hole, draw a line on the side of the mortise that is perpendicular to the tongue. At the edge of the tongue, make a mark with a compass or a pen; then push the tongue back against the setting screw as far as it will go (that is, until the spring touches the entire back of the tongue); extend the line to the same edge of the tongue or place the end of the ruler there, and draw another line, using the ruler, from the mark to the edge of the tongue when it is pushed back the farthest, and make the second mark there. The ruler used this way will show both the perpendicular line and the measurement.

But yet a quicker Way is, to set the Tongue, by the Setting-screw up to the Edge of the Hole; and, when it is forced back, measure from the Tongue[318] to the nearest Part of the Hole, which will ever be a perpendicular Line drawn from the Centre of the Hole to the Place of Pressure above-mentioned, and make another Mark there: Now the Distance between these Two Marks is the Measure (near enough) of the Tongue’s Play at the Place of Pressure. Tho’ this Line drawn on the Side of the Mortise be not exactly perpendicular to the Surface of the Tongue, but only to its Edge; yet the Difference is next to nothing, and not to be regarded.

A faster method is to set the Tongue with the setting screw right at the edge of the hole. When you push it back, measure from the Tongue to the closest part of the hole, which will always be a straight line drawn from the center of the hole to the previously mentioned pressure point, and make another mark there. The distance between these two marks is a pretty accurate measure of the Tongue’s movement at the pressure point. Although the line drawn on the side of the mortise isn’t exactly straight up and down to the surface of the Tongue, but just to its edge, the difference is negligible and not worth worrying about.

If its Measure be a quarter of an Inch, it is what Experience shews to be of a good Size for all Corn and Peas; a little less is no Harm, but greater is the most fatal Error, into which most of the Pretenders to the making of this Machine have fallen; they give the Tongue half an Inch, sometimes Three quarters of an Inch Play. The Mischief of this Error is yet farther increased, if the Spring be weak, if the Mortise have too great a Bevel, or if the Angle made by the Tongue at the upper Edge of the Mortise be too acute.

If its size is a quarter of an inch, that's what experience shows to be a good size for all corn and peas. A little less is fine, but anything larger is a serious mistake that many people trying to make this machine have fallen into. They allow the tongue to have half an inch or sometimes even three-quarters of an inch of play. The damage from this error is made even worse if the spring is weak, if the mortise has too much bevel, or if the angle formed by the tongue at the upper edge of the mortise is too sharp.

When the Tongue has too great Play, the Seed is apt to be turned out too fast, or else too slow, in spite of the Driller. For when the Tongue is set at its due Distance from the Spindle, and is thrust quite back by the Seed pressed against it by the Turning of the Notches; but the Spring being unable to return the Tongue to its former Place at such a Distance, at the time of passing the Intervals which are betwixt the Notches; then the Space between the Spindle and the Tongue being too open, the Seed is sent down too fast.

When the tongue has too much movement, the seed tends to be released too quickly or too slowly, regardless of the driller's efforts. When the tongue is positioned at the right distance from the spindle and pushed back by the seed pressing against it from the rotation of the notches, but the spring can't return the tongue to its original position at that distance while moving through the gaps between the notches, then the space between the spindle and the tongue becomes too wide, causing the seed to drop too quickly.

To prevent that, they set up the Tongue to the Spindle; and then, as often as the Spring happens to overcome the Force of the Seed’s Pressure (as sometimes it will), it is sent out too slowly.

To avoid that, they connected the Tongue to the Spindle; and then, whenever Spring overcomes the Seed's Pressure (which sometimes happens), it is released too slowly.

The Inequality of the Running of the Seed makes such Boxes useless, which the Expence of Two-pence[319] (for another Spring, or new Seasoning of that) at most would rectify, if the Maker understood how to mend his own Work. If time did permit, more should be said on this Point, because I find it is the Pons Asini of a Workman. Sometimes it may be prevented, when the Spring is too hollow, and gives too much Play. Screw the Screw, that holds it on the Tongue, down closer, so that the lower Part of the Screw’s Head press against the Spring, and thereby force its Middle nearer to the Tongue, until you find its Play lessened to its just Distance.

The unevenness in how the seed runs makes these boxes useless, which could be fixed with just two pence[319] (for another spring or new seasoning) at most, if the maker knew how to fix their own work. If time allowed, I would elaborate on this point because I find it to be a key issue for a craftsman. Sometimes it can be prevented if the spring is too hollow and has too much play. Tighten the screw that's holding it on the tongue, bringing it closer so that the bottom part of the screw’s head presses against the spring. This will push the middle of the spring closer to the tongue until you find that the play is reduced to the right distance.

The Spring, remaining in this compressed State, has lost the weakest, and retains only the strongest, Part of its elastic Force. Therefore, if you find it then too stiff, make it weaker by Filing or Grinding, or else put another into its Place, which is honestly worth no more than Two-pence.

The spring, staying in this tight position, has shed the weaker parts and only keeps the strongest part of its tension. So, if you find it too stiff, make it weaker by filing or grinding it down, or just replace it with another one that’s honestly worth no more than two pence.

This Holding-screw has a pretty broad Head, and is screwed in by a Notch, like the Screw-pin of a Gun-lock.

This holding screw has a pretty wide head and is tightened in by a notch, similar to the screw pin of a gun lock.

The Hole in the Spring must be somewhat bigger than the Holding-screw, because the Spring must have room to move and play thereon.

The hole in the spring needs to be a bit larger than the holding screw because the spring has to have space to move and flex around it.

If the Middle of the Spring were against the Middle of that Part of the Tongue, that is betwixt its Axis and the Place of Pressure, the Distance of the Spring’s Hollowness would be just half the Distance of the Spring’s Play, to wit, the One-eighth Part of an Inch; but as the Spring does not quite reach up to the Axis, and reaches much below the Place of Pressure, the Hollowness at the Place where the Setting-screw bears against the Middle of the Spring at D, is considerably nearer to the Place of Pressure than to the Axis of the Tongue; this Hollowness of the Spring at the Setting-screw may be something more than the One-eighth Part of an Inch, to give the Spring a Quarter of an Inch Play: but it seldom has so much.

If the middle of the spring were aligned with the middle of that part of the tongue, which is between its axis and the pressure point, the hollow part of the spring would be exactly half the distance of the spring's movement, specifically one-eighth of an inch. However, since the spring doesn't fully reach the axis and extends much lower than the pressure point, the hollowness where the setting screw presses against the middle of the spring at D is much closer to the pressure point than to the axis of the tongue. This hollowness of the spring at the setting screw may be slightly more than one-eighth of an inch to allow for a quarter-inch movement, but it rarely reaches that much.

[320]

[320]

Seed box spring
Seed box spring mounted in place
Seed box spring

Fig. 4. in Plate 2. shews the Length and Thickness of the Steel Spring of a Turnep Seed-box: This serves both for a Tongue and Spring: It is made first strait, and then the narrowest End of it is turned round, till it reach to a, and forms the Cylinder A, thro’ which its Axis passes; but is not welded or joined to the other Part of the Spring at a: It is placed in the Box with the Cylinder Part underneath. The Face of this Spring is seen upon its Axis, mark’d K. in Fig. 5. Its Axis is to pass thro’ the Hole E, and screw into the Hole F, in Fig. 2. as is seen more plainly at a in Fig. 9.

Fig. 4. in Plate 2. shows the length and thickness of the steel spring for a turnip seed box. This acts as both a tongue and a spring. It's first made straight, and then the narrow end is turned around until it reaches a, forming the cylinder A, through which its axis passes; however, it is not welded or connected to the other part of the spring at a. It's placed in the box with the cylinder part underneath. The face of this spring is visible on its axis, marked K, in Fig. 5.. Its axis will go through the hole E and screw into the hole F, in Fig. 2., as seen more clearly at a in Fig. 9..

Hollow metal cylinder

As the Top of every Tongue ought to be even with the upper Edges of the Mortise, the Thickness of the Cylinder of the Brass Tongue causes the Hole in the Sides of the Mortise, into which it is held by its Axis, to be far enough from the Edges of the Mortise, to be bored and screwed without Danger of breaking the said Edges; but the Spring of the Turnep-drill being so very thin, there is some Difficulty in making the Hole so high, and near the Edges: To prevent which Danger, Fig. 7. shews the End of a small hollow Cylinder of Iron or Brass, of the Thickness of the Mortise; which, being put into the Cylinder A, in Fig. 4. raises the Spring higher above the Hole; so that it may be made as low in a Turnep Mortise, as that is which holds the Brass Tongue in the Wheat-drill. But we do not always use this inner Cylinder[263]; but must then take the more Care in boring the Hole, or else it will burst out at the Edges of the Mortise.

As the top of every tongue should be level with the upper edges of the mortise, the thickness of the brass tongue's cylinder keeps the hole in the sides of the mortise, where it’s held by its axis, far enough from the edges to be drilled and screwed without risking breakage. However, the spring of the turnip drill is quite thin, making it a bit tricky to position the hole higher and closer to the edges. To avoid this issue, Fig. 7. shows the end of a small hollow cylinder made of iron or brass, matching the thickness of the mortise; when placed in cylinder A, Fig. 4. lifts the spring higher above the hole, allowing it to be made lower in a turnip mortise, similar to that which holds the brass tongue in the wheat drill. However, we don’t always use this inner cylinder [263]; we must then be more careful when drilling the hole, or it could break through at the edges of the mortise.

[263]For, instead of this, we may use a Bit of Woolen Cloth of the Breadth of the Mortise, glued on to the Bottom of the Hopper, which, filling the Vacuity above the Steel Tongue, prevents any Seed from running over it, though the Holes are bored as low in the Mortise as if the Cylinder Fig. 7. were to be used.

[263]Instead of this, we could use a piece of wool fabric the same width as the mortise, glued to the bottom of the hopper. This will fill the space above the steel tongue and stop any seeds from spilling over it, even though the holes are drilled as low in the mortise as if the cylinder Fig. 7. were to be used.

Its Shape must conform to that of the Brass Tongue already described.

Its shape must match that of the Brass Tongue described earlier.

[321]

[321]

The Degree of its Stiffness is known by weighing, as has been directed for the other Spring; and being laid with its Face downwards over a Chink, with a small Piece of Wood of the Thickness of a Barley-corn at Each end, and a String taking hold of its Middle, and descending thro’ the Chink, the Weight of Five Pounds, tied to the End of the String, will just bend the Spring, till it touch the Edges of the Chink; and this is the Stiffness of a Spring that has performed well, for many Years, in drilling of Turnep-seed.

The stiffness is determined by weighing it, as was instructed for the other spring. Place it face down over a gap, with a small piece of wood the thickness of a barleycorn at each end, and a string secured in the middle, which goes through the gap. When a weight of five pounds is tied to the end of the string, it will just bend the spring until it touches the edges of the gap. This is the stiffness of a spring that has performed well for many years in drilling turnip seeds.

The Set screw.

Set screw

Fig. 6. is the Iron Setting-screw, which passes thro’ the Hole in the Fore-end of the Mortise, Fig. 2. and passes up to the Middle of the Spring by the prick’d Line p q in the same Figure. The Use of this Setting-screw is, to increase or diminish the Proportion of Seed to be turned out by the Notches; and this it does by forcing up the Spring and Tongue (where there is one) nearer to, or farther from the Spindle, whereby the Seed-passage is made wider or narrower, as is shewn by the Three prick’d Lines in Fig. 2. and Fig. 3.

Fig. 6. is the Iron Setting-screw, which goes through the hole at the front end of the mortise, Fig. 2. and extends up to the middle of the spring by the dotted line p q in the same figure. The purpose of this setting-screw is to adjust the amount of seed being released by the notches; it does this by pushing the spring and tongue (if there is one) closer to or farther from the spindle, making the seed passage wider or narrower, as indicated by the three dotted lines in Fig. 2. and Fig. 3..

Observe, that the prick’d Line p q, Fig. 2. (being the Mortise of the Turnep-box) stands higher than the same Line doth in Fig. 3. which is the Mortise of the Wheat-box. The Reason of this Difference is, because the Spring in the Wheat-box bears at its lower End against the Tongue below the Seed-passage, and at its upper End below the Axis of the Tongue, whereby the Middle of that Spring is lower than the Spring of the Turnep-box, which, being both Spring and Tongue, bears against its Axis above, and against the Seed-passage below; therefore its Middle is higher. This Setting-screw should be placed perpendicular to the Tongue when at its mean or middle Distance from the Spindle, which may be supposed to be the[322] middlemost of the Three mention’d prick’d Lines. This Setting-screw ought to be smooth and round at its End, which bears against the Spring; for, if it should have sharp Corners or Edges, the Spring might be wounded by them, and in time might break there, being press’d by every Notch that turns against it; and, as I have computed it, a Spring undergoes One hundred thousand of these Pressures in one Day’s Work; and yet, in my whole Practice, I have had only one Spring broken, and that was in drilling a large Sort of Peas with a Wheat-drill, and was occasioned by a jagged End of the Setting-screw, which was not placed perpendicular to the Spring, by which means the rough End of the Screw made Scratches against it a Quarter of an Inch long, and so deep, that the Spring broke off there: Let not this Setting-screw be any longer than just to force the Tongue up to the Spindle; for, if it should be longer, an ignorant Driller might happen, by the Force of the Screw, to break the Tongue, or its Axis; but in the Turnep-drill, which has only a Spring instead of a Tongue, the Setting-screw may be a Thread or Two longer; because the Spring will yield a little to it, after it touches the Spindle, and is sometimes of Use in that respect, when the Notches are too large. This Screw must be of such a Bigness, that it may not be in Danger of bending; for if it should be bent, it could not be screw’d up with any Certainty, because its End, being crooked, would be below its Place at one Half-turn, and above it at the other Half-turn, and so the Spring might be set farther from the Spindle instead of nearer, and nearer instead of farther, by the Crookedness of the Setting-screw. Its Head may be made with a Notch in it, to be screw’d in with a Knife, or else with a Head like a T, to be turn’d with the Fingers, which I think is best, especially for a Wheat-drill; because as the Brine and Lime, which stick on the Wheat, grow[323] drier, it will run faster; and therefore the Setting-screw must be frequently screw’d in to lessen the Seed-passage.

Notice that the marked line p q, Fig. 2. (which is the mortise of the turnip box) is higher than the same line in Fig. 3. which is the mortise of the wheat box. The reason for this difference is that the spring in the wheat box presses at its lower end against the tongue below the seed passage, and at its upper end below the axis of the tongue. This means the middle of that spring is lower than the spring of the turnip box, which, being both spring and tongue, presses against its axis from above and against the seed passage from below; hence, its middle is higher. This setting screw should be positioned vertically to the tongue when it is at its average or middle distance from the spindle, which can be considered the[322] middle of the three mentioned marked lines. This setting screw should have a smooth, rounded end where it presses against the spring; if it has sharp corners or edges, it might damage the spring over time and eventually break it, as it gets pressed by every notch that comes into contact with it; and as I’ve calculated, a spring endures one hundred thousand of these pressures in a single day’s work. Yet, in my entire experience, I’ve only had one spring break, and that was while drilling a large type of peas with a wheat drill, caused by a jagged end of the setting screw that wasn't positioned vertically to the spring, which led to the rough end of the screw making scratches that were a quarter of an inch long and so deep that they caused the spring to snap. The setting screw should not be any longer than necessary to push the tongue up to the spindle; if it’s longer, an inexperienced driller might accidentally break the tongue or its axis due to the screw's force. However, in the turnip drill, which has only a spring instead of a tongue, the setting screw can be a thread or two longer because the spring will give a little after it touches the spindle, which can sometimes be useful when the notches are too large. This screw must be sized so that it won't risk bending; if it bends, it can't be tightened reliably since its end would be below its position with a half turn and above it with the other half turn, causing the spring to be adjusted farther from or closer to the spindle due to the crookedness of the setting screw. Its head can be notched for tightening with a knife, or shaped like a T for turning with fingers, which I believe is preferable, especially for a wheat drill. As the brine and lime that stick to the wheat dry, it will run faster, so the setting screw must be adjusted frequently to reduce the seed passage.

The Seed-passage, or Place of Pressure, is where the Seed passes down betwixt the Spindle and the Tongue; and is in that Part where they are nearest together; for there the Seed is press’d hardest by the Force of the Notches, which carry it down: And this Passage is higher or lower, as the Tongue stands nearer or farther from the Spindle; for as it stands wider, it becomes nearer to perpendicular to the Top of the Mortise, and then the Seed-passage is higher; and when it stands nearest to the Spindle, then the Seed-passage is lowest. This appears in Fig. 3. by the Three prick’d Lines a n, a o, and a p.

The Seed passage, or Place of Pressure, is where the Seed moves down between the Spindle and the Tongue; it's in that part where they are closest together. Here, the Seed is pressed most securely by the pressure from the Notches that guide it downward. This Passage is higher or lower depending on how close the Tongue is to the Spindle; when it stands wider, it aligns more vertically with the Top of the Mortise, making the Seed passage higher. Conversely, when it gets closest to the Spindle, the Seed passage is at its lowest. This is shown in Fig. 3. by the three dotted lines a n, a o, and a p.

The Spindle, with its Notches, is best shewn where it is large, and made of Wood, as that of the Wheat Seed-box; it is a solid Cylinder that passes thro’, and fills the great Hole, or hollow Cylinder, of the Seed-box; it is of various Lengths, according to the Distance its Wheels go asunder; it is always in large Boxes the Axis of Two Wheels, and turns round with them, as the Axis of the One Wheel of a Wheelbarrow does with that: These Wheels, by their Circumferences, measure out the Ground over which they carry the Seed-box, and, by the Notches in their Axis, deliver down the Seed equally, whether they move swift or slow; because an equal Number of Notchfuls of Seed will be deliver’d thro’ the Seed-passage at each Revolution of the Wheels.

The Spindle, with its Notches, is best demonstrated when it's large and made of wood, like that of the Wheat Seed-box. It's a solid cylinder that fits through and fills the large hole, or hollow cylinder, of the Seed-box. It's available in various lengths, depending on how far apart its wheels are. In large boxes, it serves as the axis of two wheels and rotates with them, just like the axle of a wheelbarrow does. These wheels, by their circumferences, measure out the ground over which they move the Seed-box, and the notches in their axle release the seed evenly, whether they're moving fast or slow; this is because an equal number of notches allows the same amount of seed to pass through the seed passage with each wheel rotation.

The Notches resemble those in the Hinder-Cylinder of a Cyder-mill, which break the Apples by turning against the Notches of the Fore-cylinder, as our Notches turn against the Tongue; and bruise the Apples which come betwixt them, as our Notches might sometimes bruise soft Seeds, if the Tongue stood close to the Notches, without any Spring behind it to give Way to their Pressure, and return the Tongue again[324] to its Place, at every Interval betwixt Notch and Notch.

The notches are similar to those in the back cylinder of a cider press, which crush the apples by moving against the notches of the front cylinder, just like our notches move against the tongue; they mash the apples that get caught between them, just as our notches might occasionally squish soft seeds if the tongue is positioned too close to the notches, without a spring behind it to allow for movement under pressure and return the tongue to its place between each notch.[324]

Notched spindle
Notched spindle

 

The best Way, that I can think of, to shew the making of these Notches, is by a Section of the Spindle at right Angles, in the Middle of the Notches, as in Fig. 4. of Plate 3. which is a Circle whose Circumference is cut off by Six Notches; which shew the different Sort of Notches, that increase or diminish the Proportion of Seed to be carried thro’ the Seed-passage by them: The Length of the Notches we never alter; but make them always parallel to the Axis of the Spindle, and of the Length of the Distance there is between the lower Ends of the opposite Axes transversi of the Ellipses, or great Holes, of the Mortise; for if any Part of the Surface of the Spindle should be betwixt the End of a Notch and the Hole, one or more Seeds coming betwixt that Surface and the Tongue, might hold it open, and prevent its pressing against the Notch, to hold the Seed therein from falling without the Turning of the Wheels.

The best way I can think to show how these notches are made is through a cross-section of the spindle at right angles in the middle of the notches, as in Fig. 4. of Plate 3., which is a circle with six notches cut into its circumference. These notches demonstrate the different types that adjust the ratio of seeds passing through the seed passage. We never change the length of the notches; we always keep them parallel to the spindle's axis and equal to the distance between the lower ends of the opposite axes transversi of the ellipses, or large holes, of the mortise. If any part of the spindle's surface is positioned between the end of a notch and the hole, one or more seeds could get stuck between that surface and the tongue. This might keep it open and prevent it from pressing against the notch to hold the seed in place, allowing it to fall out without the wheels turning.

This Proportion of Seed is alter’d by the Number of Notches, and by their Depth or Breadth, or by both. b c is the Depth of a Notch, which we call its Side; and is that which takes hold of the Seed, and carries it down thro’ the Seed-passage. The Manner of cutting this is seen by its being a Portion of the Radius A c. The Bottom of a Notch is made in different Forms[264]: As, first, it may be convex,[325] as is shewn by the curve Line b d. We may enlarge the Capacity of this Notch, by taking off the Convexity of its Bottom, as in the Bottom of the Notch shewn by the Line e f; and if we would increase it more, we make it concave, as g h.

This proportion of seed changes based on the number of notches, their depth or width, or both. b c represents the depth of a notch, which we refer to as its side; this is what grips the seed and moves it down through the seed passage. The way this is cut is evident by it being a part of the radius A c. The bottom of a notch can take different shapes: it can be convex, as shown by the curved line b d. We can increase the capacity of this notch by removing the convexity from its bottom, like in the bottom of the notch shown by the line e f; and if we want to increase it further, we can make it concave, as in g h.

[264]The convex Form is best for turning out a great Proportion of Seed; because such a Bottom may be broader than one of any other Form, in a Notch of the same Depth and Capacity; and such a Notch, having its Capacity more in Breadth than Depth, will be less liable to let fall any Seed without the Turning of the Wheels, than a Notch that is deeper and narrower, except it be very narrow, which it cannot be for throwing out a large Proportion of Seed; for a great Number of Notches cannot have altogether the same Capacity as a lesser Number of the same Depth may. The concave Notch, if it were as broad as the convex may be, would make the Interstice, that is before it, liable to be broken out, and so Two Notches would become One; but the Convexity of the other supports the Interstice like an Arch, and for that Reason may be made to reach almost quite to the Notch that is before it, without that Danger.

[264]The convex shape is ideal for producing a large amount of seeds because its bottom can be wider than any other shape's at the same depth and capacity. This wider notch, having more width than depth, is less likely to drop any seeds without the wheels turning compared to a notch that is deeper and narrower, unless it is very narrow, which wouldn’t work well for releasing a large quantity of seeds. A larger number of notches can’t have the same overall capacity as a smaller number of the same depth. If a concave notch were as wide as a convex one, it would cause the space in front of it to be easily disrupted, effectively merging two notches into one. However, the convex shape supports the space like an arch, allowing it to extend almost all the way to the notch in front without that risk.

Spindle notch detail

But of whatever Sort or Dimensions one Notch is made, all the rest should be the same exactly; and consequently, the Interstices (or Intervals) between Notch and Notch, of which the Line f c, being an Arch of the Circle, is the Breadth, must be equal[265], and cannot be otherwise, if the Notches are all equal and equidistant, as they appear in the adjoining Fig. 5. which is a Section like the former, and shews Six Intervals, with their Six Notches, of the Size wherewith we drill St. Foin with high Wheels; but when we would drill very thin, it is better to have but Four or Five Notches instead of Six.

But regardless of the type or size of one notch made, all the others should match it exactly; and as a result, the spaces (or gaps) between each notch, represented by the line f c, which is an arc of the circle, must be equal[265], and there’s no other way for it to be if all the notches are the same and evenly spaced, as shown in the adjacent Fig. 5. which is a section like the previous one, displaying six intervals with their six notches, sized for drilling St. Foin with high wheels; however, when we aim to drill very thin, it’s better to only have four or five notches instead of six.

[265]But these cannot be equal, unless the Notches are all of equal Breadth, and equidistant from one another; and if they are otherwise, the Seed will not be equally delivered to the Ground.

[265]But these can't be equal unless the Notches are all the same width and evenly spaced. If not, the Seed won't be delivered evenly to the Ground.

Fig. 6. shews a Notch of the Spindle. a b is the upper Edge of the Side of the Notch, being always an acute solid Angle. c d is the Edge of its Bottom, being always an obtuse Angle. e f is the Angle made by the Side and Bottom, and is always shorter than the aforesaid Two Edges, by reason of the Obliquity of the Two Ends; this Angle is never obtuse, except when the Bottom of the Notch is concave. These Three Lines must be parallel to the Axis of the Spindle.

Fig. 6. shows a notch on the spindle. a b is the upper edge of the notch side, always forming a sharp angle. c d is the bottom edge, always forming a blunt angle. e f is the angle created by the side and bottom, and it’s always shorter than the two mentioned edges due to the slant of the two ends; this angle is never blunt, unless the bottom of the notch is curved. These three lines must be parallel to the spindle's axis.

Fig. 7. is one End of the afore-described Notch; the Line a b being joined to the Line f d of Fig. 6.[326] and the Line a c, being joined to the Line b f in Fig. 6. would be the End of that Notch in its proper Posture; and then the Line b c, being an Arch of the cylindrical Spindle, would be the Edge of the upper End of the Notch. a b c, being the Area of this End, is a Plane, and, when in its Place, makes an Angle of Forty-five Degrees with the Axis of the Spindle. The other End is the same with this in all respects, except that, being opposite to it, it is inclined to it in an Angle of Ninety Degrees, at the bottom Angle of the Notch, at the Line e f in Fig. 6.

Fig. 7. is one end of the previously described notch; the line a b connects to the line f d of Fig. 6.[326] and the line a c connects to the line b f in Fig. 6., which would mark the end of that notch in its proper position; then the line b c, which is an arch of the cylindrical spindle, will be the edge of the upper end of the notch. The area a b c at this end is a plane and, when in place, makes a 45-degree angle with the axis of the spindle. The other end is identical to this one in every way, except that it is opposite and inclined at a 90-degree angle at the bottom of the notch, along the line e f in Fig. 6..

Spindle notch

Fig. 8. is a Notch lying with its Ends near it, and is of the same Dimensions with those appearing in the Seed-box, Fig. 3.

Fig. 8. is a notch that lies with its ends close together and is the same size as those found in the seed box, Fig. 3.

The Cover B appears with its upper Surface rightly placed in the Mortise, in Fig. 3. of Plate 3. where its Breadth is shewn to be the same with that of the Mortise; but its Shape, and other Dimensions, are best seen in Fig. 3. of Plate 2. where s t is its Length, and reaches from the Hinder-end of the Mortise, to within the Tenth of an Inch of the upper End of the Axis transversus of the Ellipsis; its greatest Depth is from v to w, and is made so deep, that its Bottom, at w, bearing against the End of the Mortise, may prevent its Point, which is at t, from sinking down to touch the Spindle, which it neither must do, nor be so high above it as to suffer a Seed to pass between the Spindle and it, tho’ the Seed is not apt to pass that Way, because the Notches throw it forwards from the Cover. z is the Hole, thro’ which an Iron Screw-pin passes, and screws into the opposite Sides of the Mortise, to hold it firm in its Place: ’Tis made so thin betwixt x and y both for Lightness, and that the Seed may come the more freely to the Notches, without Danger of Arching at that End. The Use of the Cover is to prevent any Seed from falling down behind the Spindle.

The Cover B fits snugly in the Mortise, in Fig. 3. of Plate 3., where its width is shown to match that of the Mortise. However, its shape and other dimensions are best illustrated in Fig. 3. of Plate 2., where s t represents its length, extending from the back end of the Mortise to just within a tenth of an inch from the top of the Axis transversus of the Ellipsis. Its maximum depth is from v to w, and it’s designed so deep that its bottom, at w, rests against the end of the Mortise, preventing its point at t from dropping down to touch the Spindle. It shouldn’t touch, nor should it be positioned so high that a seed can fall between the Spindle and it, though a seed is unlikely to go that way since the notches direct it forward from the Cover. z is the hole through which an iron screw-pin goes, fastening into the opposite sides of the Mortise to keep it secure in place. It’s made thin between x and y for lightness and to allow seeds to move freely to the notches without the risk of arching at that end. The purpose of the Cover is to keep any seeds from falling behind the Spindle.

[327]

[327]

Seed box cover

Fig. 10. Plate 2. is the Fore-end of a Wheat Mortise, with its Hole A, thro’ which the Setting-screw is screw’d, and passes up to the Back of the Tongue by the Line q r in Fig. 3.

Fig. 10. Plate 2. is the front part of a Wheat Mortise, with its hole A, through which the setting screw is inserted, and it extends to the back of the tongue by the line q r in Fig. 3.

Rear of mortise

Fig. 9. in Plate 3. is the hinder End of a Wheat Mortise, which by its prick’d Lines, and the Two right-angled Triangles they make, shews the Bevel of the Mortise, and also its Depth; it also shews the Difference of the Bevel of the Mortise, and that of the Tongue, Fig. 1. which is placed against it: These Figures having been already demonstrated in the Description of the Turnep Mortise, and in these, I need say no more of it, but that I think these last-mention’d Figures sufficient Directions for understanding and making the Mortise of a Wheat-drill.

Fig. 9. in Plate 3. is the back end of a wheat mortise, which shows the angle of the mortise and its depth through its marked lines and the two right-angled triangles they create. It also highlights the difference between the angle of the mortise and that of the tongue, Fig. 1. which fits against it. These shapes have already been explained in the description of the turnep mortise, so I won't go into more detail. I just believe that these last-mentioned shapes provide clear guidance for understanding and creating the mortise of a wheat drill.

Fig. 3. of Plate 3. exhibits to View a Wheat Seed-box, with its Appurtenances, standing upon its Bottom; B the Brass Cover; C the Tongue hanging upon its Axis; c the End of the Iron Screw that holds on the Spring, coming thro’ the Tongue, and filed smooth with it; a, a, a, are Three Notches of the Spindle, with their bevel Ends; b, b, are Two Interstices betwixt the Notches.

Fig. 3. of Plate 3. shows a Wheat Seed-box, with its parts set on its base; B the Brass Cover; C the Tongue hanging on its Axis; c the end of the Iron Screw that secures the Spring, passing through the Tongue, and smoothed out to match it; a, a, a, are Three Notches on the Spindle, with their bevelled ends; b, b, are Two Gaps between the Notches.

Hitherto we have been speaking of the Parts contained in the Wheat Seed-box; let us now come to the Parts containing: As, first, d e f g is the upper Surface of the Brass Seed-box, shewing the Top of the Mortise, and what it contains; h h h, and h h h, shew the Ends of the hollow Cylinder, and its Bases coming out on each Side, farther than the Box; for if it did not project farther out than the Sides of the Box, the Surface of it would be so narrow, that it would cut the wooden Spindle by the Friction made between it and the Spindle; but the Surface, being of this Breadth, never wears into the Spindle, but makes it smooth and shining; i i i, and i i i, shew a Portion of the wooden Spindle (of an Inch and an[328] half Diameter) coming out of the hollow Cylinder, on each Side of the Brass Box.

So far, we've been talking about the parts in the Wheat Seed-box; now let's discuss the parts containing: First, d e f g represents the upper surface of the Brass Seed-box, showing the top of the mortise and what it holds; h h h and h h h show the ends of the hollow cylinder and its bases extending out on each side, further than the box. If it didn’t extend beyond the sides of the box, the surface would be so narrow that it would damage the wooden spindle due to the friction between them; however, since the surface has this width, it never wears down the spindle but keeps it smooth and shiny; i i i and i i i show a section of the wooden spindle (with a diameter of an inch and a half) protruding from the hollow cylinder on each side of the Brass Box.

The Spindle is kept from moving end-ways, by Wreaths, in the same manner as the Axis of a Wheelbarrow is; which Wreaths shall be described together with the Hopper. k is the Hole by which the Fore-end of the Seed-box is held up to the Bottom of the Hopper, by a Screw and Nut. l is the Hole where the Hinder-end of the Box is held up, in the same manner as the Fore-end is. m n o p shew where the Two Halves of the Seed-box are joined together.

The spindle is fixed in place end-to-end by wreaths, similar to how the axle of a wheelbarrow is secured. These wreaths will be explained along with the hopper. k is the hole through which the front end of the seed box is attached to the bottom of the hopper using a screw and nut. l is the hole where the back end of the box is secured in the same way as the front end. m n o p shows where the two halves of the seed box are connected.

Outside of seed box

Fig. 10. shews the Outside of One Half of the Brass Seed-box. A A A shew the Thickness of the projecting Base of the hollow Cylinder, which is made the thicker, to the end that the Hole may be bored large, and made an Inch and Three Quarters Diameter, when a Spindle that is to go therein is required to be of that Bigness, by reason of its extraordinary Length, as it is in the Fore-hopper of the Wheat-drill. B C shews the Thickness of the Ends of the Seed-box, whereby it is held up to the Bottom of the Hopper; if they are not quite a quarter of an Inch thick, they will be strong enough; especially C, which is the hindermost, and which is never pull’d down by the Turning of the Spindle, but is rather raised up by it.

Fig. 10. shows the outside of one half of the brass seed box. A A A shows the thickness of the projecting base of the hollow cylinder, which is made thicker so that the hole can be drilled large, with a diameter of one and three-quarters inches, since the spindle that needs to fit in it must be that size due to its extraordinary length, as it is in the fore-hopper of the wheat drill. B C shows the thickness of the ends of the seed box, which supports it at the bottom of the hopper; if they are not quite a quarter of an inch thick, they will be strong enough, especially C, which is the back end and is never pulled down by the turning of the spindle but is rather lifted up by it.

D is the Head of the Counter-screw, to be turn’d by the Fingers, to press against the Side of the Setting-screw, to keep it from turning of itself, when it is worn loose.

D is the Head of the Counter-screw, which should be turned by hand to press against the Side of the Setting-screw, preventing it from turning on its own when it gets worn out.

E is the Hole for the Axis of the Tongue. F is the Hole of an Iron Screw-pin, which both holds the Cover to its Place, and also the Two Halves of the Box together. G is the Hole for another Screw-pin, which holds the Two Sides of the Box together. H and I are Holes for Two other Screw-pins, which likewise hold the Two Halves of the Box together,[329] and are placed one above, and the other below, the Setting-screw; for otherwise that Screw, and its Counter-screw, might force open the Joining of the Box, and then the Setting-screw might be loose, and the Bevel of the Box might be altered; but these Screws, being one on each Side of it, prevent this Inconvenience.

E is the hole for the axis of the tongue. F is the hole for an iron screw pin, which secures the cover in place and also holds the two halves of the box together. G is the hole for another screw pin that keeps the two sides of the box together. H and I are holes for two additional screw pins, which also hold the two halves of the box together, [329] and are positioned one above and one below the setting screw; otherwise, that screw and its counter screw could force the box halves apart, potentially loosening the setting screw and altering the bevel of the box. However, with these screws positioned on either side, this issue is prevented.

Half of seed box

Fig. 8. in Plate 2. is one Half of a Brass Turnep Seed-box, lying with its Inside uppermost, which shews the left Side of the Mortise, and half the Fore-end, and half the Hinder-end, of the Mortise, and half of each Screw-pin Hole, by which it is held up to the Bottom of the Hopper. A is half the Hole of the Setting-screw, shewing in the Middle of it the End of the Counter-screw. B is half the Hole, by which the Steel Spring-cover is held in with a Screw. All the other Holes are for the same Purposes, as have been shewn in the Wheat Seed-box.

Fig. 8. in Plate 2. is one half of a brass turnip seed box, positioned with its inside facing up. This reveals the left side of the mortise, half of the front end, and half of the back end of the mortise, along with half of each screw pin hole that keeps it attached to the bottom of the hopper. A shows half of the hole for the setting screw, with the end of the counter-screw visible in the middle. B is half of the hole that secures the steel spring cover with a screw. All the other holes serve the same purposes as indicated in the wheat seed box.

Fig. 9. is the whole Turnep Seed-box, standing upon its Bottom; Part of its Steel Spring-tongue appears in its Place, as also some of the Notches of the Spindle; but more especially the Cover A, which differs from the Cover of the Wheat Mortise, this being a very thin Spring, whose lower End just reaches to touch (but not to bear upon) the Spindle at the upper End of the transverse Axes of the Ellipses; the Mortise being filed away at the End, in order that the upper End of this Spring, and the Screw which holds it, may not lie above the upper Surface of the Box. This Spring is made very weak, to the end that, if by any Chance a soft Seed should stick in a Notch, and be turned round, this Spring might suffer it to pass by without breaking it. B, C, are the Two Flanks or Sides, made necessarily of this Breadth, for bearing against the Wood of the Bottom of the Hopper, to prevent the Seed from falling out betwixt the Wood and the Brass, and that the Hole in the Hopper may be broader than this narrow Mortise[330] of the Seed-box. The left Flank B, being next the wide Side of the Hopper, lies all open, except on the outside of the pricked Lines, where it is covered by the Wood of the End of the Hopper, when it is screwed on to its Place; but the Flanch C, on the right Side, will be all covered by the End of the Box, that will stand upon it, and will reach to the pricked Line that touches the Edge of the Mortise. D is the End of the Setting-screw, appearing in its Place with a Notch, whereby it is to be turned by a Knife; but I think it better to have an End like a T, to be turned with the Fingers. E is one End of the hollow Cylinder, which projects beyond the Flanch, that there may be more Room for the Crank to turn (without striking against the End of the Hopper, or against the Flanch) on the Outside of the Box or Hopper; and for that, the longer this Cylinder is, the better the Brass Spindle will turn in it.

Fig. 9. is the entire Turnep Seed-box, standing on its base. Part of its steel spring tongue is visible in its position, along with some of the notches of the spindle; but especially the Cover A, which is different from the cover of the Wheat Mortise. This cover is a very thin spring, whose lower end barely touches (but doesn't rest on) the spindle at the upper end of the transverse Axes of the Ellipses. The mortise has been filed down at the end so that the upper end of this spring, and the screw that holds it, don't extend above the upper surface of the box. This spring is designed to be very weak so that if by any chance a soft seed gets stuck in a notch and is turned around, this spring can let it pass without breaking. B and C are the two sides, made of this width to push against the wood of the bottom of the hopper, preventing the seed from falling out between the wood and the brass, and ensuring that the hole in the hopper is wider than this narrow mortise[330] of the seed box. The left flank B, which is next to the wide side of the hopper, is completely open except on the outside of the pricked lines, where it is covered by the wood of the end of the hopper when it's screwed into place. Meanwhile, the right flank C will be fully covered by the end of the box that will sit on it, reaching to the pricked line that touches the edge of the mortise. D is the end of the setting screw, showing in its position with a notch for turning it with a knife; however, I think it would be better to have an end shaped like a T for turning with the fingers. E is one end of the hollow cylinder, which extends beyond the flank to provide more room for the crank to turn (without hitting the end of the hopper or the flank) on the outside of the box or hopper. For that reason, the longer this cylinder is, the better the brass spindle will rotate within it.

Spring cover; thumb screws

Fig. 11. is the Spring-cover, with its Hole, whereby it is screwed into its Place, as it is seen marked A, in Fig. 9.

Fig. 11. is the Spring cover, with its hole, through which it is screwed into position, as indicated by A in Fig. 9.

Fig. 12. is the Setting-screw pointing against its Hole, its Head being flat, that it may be turned by the Finger and Thumb.

Fig. 12. is the setting screw that presses against its hole, with a flat head so it can be turned by hand.

Fig. 13. is the Counter-screw, to be turned in the same manner.

Fig. 13. is the Counter-screw, which should be turned the same way.

Fig. 5. shews the Brass Spindle of the Turnep Seed-box, and the Manner of turning it against its Steel Tongue, or Spring; which Manner is different from that of turning the larger Spindles for Boxes of a larger Size, such as the Wheat Seed-box.

Fig. 5. shows the Brass Spindle of the Turnip Seed box and how it turns against its Steel Tongue or Spring; this method is different from how the larger Spindles are turned for Boxes of a larger Size, like the Wheat Seed box.

This Spindle[266], being but half an Inch Diameter, is too small to be turned by the Two Wheels, as[331] the larger Spindles are; not only because it would be in Danger of breaking by the Weight of the Hopper, and by the Twisting (or Wrenching) of the Wheels; but also because it would soon become loose, by wearing the hollow Cylinder thro’ which it passes; and it would be apt to open the Brass Flanches from the Bottom of the Hopper, whereby the Seed might run out, beside several other Inconveniencies; all which are prevented by turning the Spindle in the manner shewn in this Figure; for here the Spindle never presses against the hollow Cylinder, with any greater Force than that of its own Weight, which is so very little, that the Friction made by it is next to nothing.

This spindle, which is only half an inch in diameter, is too small to be operated by the two wheels, like the larger spindles. Not only would it risk breaking under the weight of the hopper and the twisting of the wheels, but it would also quickly become loose from wearing down the hollow cylinder it passes through. Furthermore, it could cause the brass flanges at the bottom of the hopper to separate, allowing the seed to spill out, among several other issues. All of these problems are avoided by operating the spindle as shown in this figure, since the spindle only presses against the hollow cylinder with its own weight, which is so light that the friction it creates is practically negligible.

[266]I believe, if it were less by a Fourth or Third of its Diameter, it might be better, as being more proportionable to the Smalness of the Turnep-seed. I have had the Mortise much wider; but it cannot well be made much narrower, whilst the Tongue is of this Fashion; for this Steel Tongue, if narrower, would either be too stiff, or else apt to break, nor would there be Room in the Mortise for a sufficient Setting-screw to follow it. But there is another Fashion, wherein a narrower Brass Tongue has a broad Spring behind it; and when it is in this Manner, the Mortise may be a Fourth of the Breadth of this. I have had many of these when I made my Boxes in Wood; but cannot describe them by these Cuts; neither are such narrow Mortises necessary, unless it were for drilling Tobacco seed, Thyme-seed, or some other Sort of an extraordinary Smalness.

[266]I think that if it were smaller by a fourth or a third of its diameter, it would work better, as it would match the small size of the turnip seed. I've made the mortise much wider before, but it can’t be too much narrower while the tongue is this shape; because this steel tongue, if made narrower, would either be too stiff or likely to break, and there wouldn’t be enough room in the mortise for a decent setting screw to follow it. However, there’s another design where a narrower brass tongue is combined with a broad spring behind it; in this case, the mortise could be a fourth of its width. I’ve made many of these when I constructed my wooden boxes, but I can’t illustrate them with these cuts; also, such narrow mortises aren’t necessary unless it’s for drilling tobacco seeds, thyme seeds, or some other type of extremely small seeds.

Wreath or washer
Slider

 

A the Spindle, exactly fitting the Bore of the hollow Cylinder; which, when it enters the said Cylinder at its left End, in Fig. 9. will be stopped by the Wreath B B B; which Wreath, being circular, is cast on the Spindle, and is Part of it; the other End of the Spindle will then appear without the right-hand End of the said hollow Cylinder, at E in Fig. 9. and is kept there by the Wreath Fig. 14. which is to be put on upon the End of the Spindle, until it come to the Shoulder at a, which Shoulder is exactly even with the End of the hollow Cylinder; so that this Wreath will touch the End of the said Cylinder by its whole Surface. Then, to fix in this Wreath from coming off, we make use of the Slider, Fig. 15. whose Two Claws A, B, being thrust down by the Two Notches of the Spindle, at b and c, until its other Part[332] C, which is perpendicular to its Claws, comes down to the Flat of the Spindle, and environs one half of the Hole, covering the Part of the Flat which appears of a darker Colour; and then the upper Part of C, in Fig. 15. makes one level Surface with the Flat D of the Spindle; and then the Iron Fork E, being screwed into the Hole F, holds down the Slider fast, so that it cannot rise up; and then the Spindle, being in its Place, will run round without moving endways, being confined by these Wreaths.

A spindle that perfectly fits the bore of the hollow cylinder; when it enters the cylinder from the left end, it will be stopped by the circular wreath B B B, which is cast onto the spindle and is a part of it. The other end of the spindle will then stick out from the right end of the hollow cylinder, at E, and is held in place by the wreath Fig. 14., which is placed on the end of the spindle until it reaches the shoulder at a. This shoulder is flush with the end of the hollow cylinder, so the wreath will touch the end of the cylinder with its entire surface. To prevent this wreath from coming off, we use the slider, Fig. 15., whose two claws A and B are pushed down by the two notches of the spindle at b and c, until its other part C, which is perpendicular to its claws, comes down to the flat part of the spindle, surrounding half of the hole and covering the darker part of the flat. Then, the upper part of C, in Fig. 15., creates a flat surface with the flat D of the spindle. Then, the iron fork E, which is screwed into the hole F, keeps the slider tightly in place so that it cannot move up. With the spindle in its position, it will rotate without moving endwise, confined by these wreaths.

The Spindle being thus placed, so that it may turn easily, we place the Seed-box upon its Flanches with its Bottom upwards; and then setting one sharp Point of a Pair of Compasses, or some such Instrument, upon the Spindle, within the Mortise, close to the Edge of the Hole or Ellipse at the End of the transverse Ax, turn round the Spindle, until the said Point makes a Mark round the Spindle, which will be a Circle; by the same means make such another Mark at the opposite Ax; then unscrew the Fork, and take out the Slider, pull off the Wreath, and take out the Spindle, and cut the Notches between the Two said Circles and Marks; the Edges of the Ends of the Notches must be Arches of these Circles. These Notches should differ from those already described in the Wheat-drill, in nothing but the Smalness of their Dimensions; their Depth should be about the Thickness of a Turnep-seed, or something deeper. The Breadth of their Bottoms is uncertain, and must be greater or less according to their greater or less Number; but we commonly have Seven or Eight Notches, and make them about the Breadth in which they appear in this Figure; but whatever their Number be, they must be all equal, and so must all their Interstices.

Once the spindle is positioned so it can rotate easily, we place the seed box on its sides with the bottom facing up. Next, using one sharp point of a compass or a similar tool, we set it on the spindle in the mortise, close to the edge of the hole or ellipse at the end of the transverse axis. We then rotate the spindle until the point makes a mark around it, creating a circle. We repeat this process to make another mark on the opposite axis. After that, we unscrew the fork, remove the slider, take off the wreath, and pull out the spindle to cut notches between the two circles. The edges of the notches should be arcs of these circles. These notches should only differ from those already described in the wheat drill in terms of size; their depth should be about as thick as a turnip seed, or slightly deeper. The width of their bottoms can vary, depending on the number of notches; however, we usually create seven or eight notches with widths similar to those shown in this figure. Regardless of how many there are, all should be equal, and all their spaces must be uniform.

G is the End of a wooden Spindle, thro’ which passes the Iron Crank H, and is fastened to it by its Screw and Nut, at d; Part of which Crank enters[333] the Wood at e, which prevents its Turning in the Spindle.

G is the end of a wooden spindle, through which the iron crank H passes and is connected to it by its screw and nut at d; part of this crank enters[333] the wood at e, which stops it from turning in the spindle.

This Crank, by its other End, passing thro’ the Two Legs of the Fork E, and equally distant from the Top and Bottom of it, turns the Spindle by the Motion of the Wheel which is fixed on the other End of the wooden Spindle. If this Crank were to turn the Spindle by a single Pin, instead of this Fork, the Seed could never be delivered out equally to the Ground; for as soon as the Pin began to descend, and decline from being perpendicular to the Horizon, it would, by its own Weight falling down, turn the Spindle half round in a Moment, and there remain with its other End downwards perpendicular to the Horizon under the Spindle, until the Crank reached it there, and so no Seed would be turned out by one Semicircle of the Wheel, and a double Proportion would be turned out to the Land that was measured by the other Semicircle; but the hinder Leg of the Fork, bearing against the hinder Part of the Crank, prevents this Inconvenience.

This crank, at the other end, passes through the two legs of the fork E, remaining equally distant from both the top and bottom. It turns the spindle through the motion of the wheel attached to the other end of the wooden spindle. If this crank were to turn the spindle using a single pin instead of this fork, the seed wouldn't be delivered evenly to the ground. As soon as the pin started to descend and leaned away from being perpendicular to the horizon, its own weight would quickly rotate the spindle half a turn and stay there with the other end pointing down vertically beneath the spindle until the crank reached it. This would mean no seed would be dispensed during one semicircle of the wheel, while double the amount would be dispensed for the land covered by the other semicircle. However, the back leg of the fork, providing support against the back part of the crank, prevents this issue.

The Line f g is Part of the Surface of a Board, thro’ which the wooden Spindle passes, and by which it is held in its Place; as shall be shewn hereafter.

The line f g is part of the surface of a board, through which the wooden spindle passes, and by which it is held in place; as will be shown later.

The Axis of this wooden Spindle ought to fall into a Line with the Axis of this Brass Spindle; but, unless Care be taken to prevent it, the wooden Spindle will so much wear the Hole thro’ which it passes, and be worn by it, as to have Room in the Hole to deviate from this Exactness, and may descend so low, that the Crank may come out of the Ends of the Fork; and for this Reason it is, that the Fork is made so long as it is; but when this wooden Spindle does, by the Contrivances hereafter shewn, keep its Axis in a Line with the Axis of the Brass Spindle, or very nearly so, then the Legs of the Fork need be no longer than half an Inch; and in that Case, the Joint of the Crank, which is perpendicular to the[334] Spindle, must be shorter, or else descend deeper into the Wood, so that its End, which turns the Fork, may be in the Middle betwixt its Bottom and the End of its Legs.

The axis of this wooden spindle should align with the axis of this brass spindle. However, if precautions aren’t taken, the wooden spindle will wear down the hole it passes through and itself get worn, creating enough space to deviate from this alignment. It may lower to the point where the crank could slip out of the ends of the fork. That’s why the fork is designed to be as long as it is. However, when this wooden spindle, through the methods explained later, maintains its axis aligned with the brass spindle, or very close to it, then the legs of the fork only need to be half an inch long. In that case, the joint of the crank, which is vertical to the spindle, must be shorter or go deeper into the wood so that its end, which moves the fork, is positioned midway between its bottom and the end of its legs.

The Use of the other End of the Spindle is this: When we have a mind that it should be turned by the left Wheel instead of the right, we screw in the Fork into the Hole I, and place a short Screw in the room of the Fork, to hold down the Slider.

The Use of the other End of the Spindle is this: When we decide that it should be turned by the left Wheel instead of the right, we screw the Fork into the Hole I and place a short Screw in place of the Fork to secure the Slider.

Note, It is not absolutely necessary, that the hollow Cylinder, which appears on the Sides of the Seed-box, should both, or either of them, project farther than the Flanches; but I think it better that it should do so, at least, on that Side which is next to the Fork.

Note: It’s not essential for the hollow cylinder on the sides of the seed box to stick out further than the flanges, but I believe it’s better if it does, at least on the side next to the fork.

This Cylinder should be bored as true, and as even, as the Barrel of a Fusil is bored: and the Edges and Surfaces of its Ends must be smooth, and without Jaggs, to the end that the Wreaths may turn glibly against them.

This cylinder should be drilled as accurately and evenly as the barrel of a gun. The edges and surfaces of its ends must be smooth and free from any rough spots so that the seals can move easily against them.

The Figure or Shape of all Sorts of Seeds disposes them, more or less, to form an Arch, when they are pressed from above, and confined on all Sides.

The shape of all kinds of seeds makes them more or less likely to take on an arch when they're pressed from above and enclosed on all sides.

The most effectual Way to prevent this is, to take care, whenever many Seeds are to descend together by their own Gravity thro’ a narrow Passage, that such Passage be never narrower downwards than upwards; but, on the contrary, that it be wider downwards, on some or one of its Sides; in which Case, if the Surfaces of all the Sides of this Passage be smooth, it is impossible, that Seeds should of themselves form an Arch therein.

The best way to prevent this is to ensure that whenever a lot of seeds are falling together by their own weight through a narrow opening, that the opening is never narrower at the bottom than at the top. Instead, it should be wider at the bottom on one or more sides. In this case, if all the surfaces of this passage are smooth, it’s impossible for the seeds to form an arch by themselves.

On this Maxim depends the infallible Performance of a Drill, and from hence are derived the Uses of the Bevel of the Mortise: What I mean by the Word Bevel, in general, has been already defined.

On this principle depends the reliable operation of a drill, and from this comes the purpose of the bevel of the mortise: what I mean by the term bevel has already been defined.

The Bevel of the Mortise of the Seed-box is that Inclination of its Sides, whereby it is wider downwards,[335] and narrower upwards; by which means the Seed is prevented from arching in the Mortise before it descends to the Notches of the Spindle. And this is the First Use of our Bevel; for this Arching might happen in the Mortise, if the Planes of its Sides were parallel to each other; and would be unavoidable, if their Inclination were downwards, as it is upwards; but these Planes opening downwards, the lower the Seed descends, the more Room it has to expand; so that the very Weight, which would otherwise cause it to arch and stop, does by means of this Bevel force it to descend to the Notches, and then it is safe from all manner of Danger of stopping. The Ends of the Mortise are at such a great Distance from each other, and the Cover so very thin, as to lie almost even with the upper Part of the Spindle, that the Seed can never form an Arch that way; or, if it did, the continual Motion of the Tongue would immediately break it down at the Fore-end of the Mortise.

The bevel of the seed-box mortise is the slant of its sides, which makes it wider at the bottom and narrower at the top. This design prevents the seeds from arching in the mortise before they drop into the notches of the spindle. This is the first benefit of our bevel; without it, the seeds could arch if the sides were parallel, and it would definitely happen if they slanted downwards instead of upwards. But with the sides opening downward, the lower the seeds go, the more space they have to spread out. So, the very weight that would normally cause them to arch and get stuck actually helps them descend into the notches, keeping them safe from any risk of stopping. The ends of the mortise are far apart, and the cover is so thin that it almost aligns with the upper part of the spindle, ensuring that the seeds can’t form an arch in that direction. Even if they did, the constant movement of the tongue would quickly break it down at the front of the mortise.

The Second Use of this Bevel is, that it gives room for the Tongue to be in the same manner bevel, tho’ in a less Degree: By this means, the Seed cannot by any Impediment be stopped in its oblique Descent to the Notches, from the Fore-end, and all that other Length of the Mortise, along and upon the Surface of the Tongue.

The second use of this bevel is that it allows space for the tongue to also be beveled, although to a lesser extent. This way, nothing gets in the way of the seed as it descends at an angle towards the notches from the front end, along the entire length of the mortise, across the surface of the tongue.

But if the Mortise had not this Bevel, the Tongue could not have it; for then either the upper Surface of the Tongue must have no Bevel at all, which would destroy the Two empty Triangles which ought to be on its Sides; or else it must have a Bevel the contrary Way (i. e. a Bevel reversed), and be narrower downwards than upwards, which would cause the Seed to arch thereon, and hinder its free Descent to the Notches.

But if the Mortise didn't have this Bevel, the Tongue couldn't either; because then either the top surface of the Tongue wouldn't have any Bevel at all, which would eliminate the two empty Triangles that should be on its sides; or it would have a Bevel that goes the opposite way (i.e. a reversed Bevel), making it narrower at the bottom than at the top, which would cause the Seed to arch over it and block its free descent into the Notches.

A Third great Use of this Bevel is, that, besides the Bevel of the Tongue aforementioned, it gives place for Two empty Triangles, one on each Side the[336] Tongue, which have each its vertical Angle extremely acute at the Axis of the Tongue, and have their Bases at the Bottom of the Mortise, and of the Tongue: These Triangles are also Bevels, which consist of the Difference, or Complement, of the Bevel of the Tongue, and that of the Mortise, the latter being about One-third greater than the former; i. e. One-third of the whole Bevel of the Mortise is divided between these Two Triangles, to each a Sixth Part; so that if the Angle of Inclination of the Sides of the Mortise were Nine Degrees, then the vertical Angle of each of these empty Triangles would be of One Degree and Thirty Minutes, and Six Degrees, would be left for the Bevel of the Tongue. And these triangular Spaces help to secure the free Motion of the Tongue, and free Descent of the Seed down its Surface; because they permit no Impediment to lodge in them, they being, by means of the Bevel of the Mortise, wider downwards, both obliquely and perpendicularly, so that no Dust, nor whatever else happens to get in betwixt the Tongue and the Side of the Mortise, can rest there; for it will be immediately removed thence by the Motion of the Tongue, and its own Gravity, and either thrown perpendicularly down, or else obliquely to the Notches, and the first Notch that takes it will carry it out at the Seed-passage.

A third major use of this bevel is that, in addition to the previously mentioned tongue bevel, it creates space for two empty triangles, one on each side of the tongue. Each triangle has a very acute vertical angle at the axis of the tongue, with their bases at the bottom of the mortise and the tongue. These triangles are also bevels, derived from the difference, or complement, of the tongue bevel and the mortise bevel, with the latter being about one-third larger than the former. In other words, one-third of the total bevel of the mortise is shared between these two triangles, giving each a sixth part. So, if the angle of inclination of the sides of the mortise were nine degrees, then the vertical angle of each of these empty triangles would be one degree and thirty minutes, leaving six degrees for the bevel of the tongue. These triangular spaces help maintain the free movement of the tongue and the smooth descent of the seed down its surface. They prevent any blockages since they are wider at the bottom due to the bevel of the mortise, both obliquely and perpendicularly. As a result, no dust or anything that might get caught between the tongue and the side of the mortise can settle there; it will be quickly removed by the tongue's movement and its own weight, either dropping straight down or sliding obliquely to the notches, and the first notch that encounters it will push it out through the seed passage.

The Fourth Use of the Bevel is, that thereby the Sections of the hollow Cylinder (before described) do form Ellipses instead of Circles; which they must have been, if cut parallel to the Bases of that Cylinder; and the Sections must have been thus parallel, had the Mortise been without any Bevel.

The Fourth Use of the Bevel is that it makes the sections of the hollow cylinder (as described before) form ellipses instead of circles; which they would have been if cut parallel to the bases of that cylinder; and the sections would have been parallel like this if the mortise had no bevel.

Now the Two Semi-ellipses, which are on the Fore-sides of their longest Axes or Diameters, and next to the Tongue, are opposite to, and do still uniformly depart from each other, even from the upper End of their said longest Axis, until they[337] arrive at the lower End of the same Axis, which is below the Seed-passage, as its upper End is very near the Cover.

Now the two semi-ellipses, which are located on the front sides of their longest axes or diameters, and next to the tongue, are opposite each other and consistently move away from one another, starting from the upper end of their longest axis until they reach the lower end of the same axis, which is below the seed passage, while the upper end is very close to the cover.

This Opening of these opposite Semi-ellipses makes it impossible for any thing, of itself, to get into the remaining Parts of this hollow Cylinder, betwixt them and the solid Cylinder, call’d the Spindle, which turns continually therein, when the Wheels are going: For you will see, that if you make a Mark on the Spindle, close to the Side of the Mortise, at the upper End of the longest Ax of the Ellipse; and then turn the Spindle until this Mark come against the lower End of the same Ax; and there make another Mark on the Spindle, close to the Side of the Mortise; and draw a Line from one Mark to the other, parallel to the Ax of the Spindle, which will be the Measure of that Part of the Bevel of the Diameter of the Hole; every Point in this Line will, by an intire Revolution of the Spindle, generate a Circle, which will cut the Ellipse in Two Places, once on the Foreside of its longest Axis, and once on the Back-side or hinder Half of it; and that all these Points, in this Surface of the Spindle, described by these Circles, will enter the Hole, by the said hinder Semi-ellipse, as the Spindle there turns upwards (as it always does); and they will all again come out on the fore Semi-ellipse, as they descend towards the lower End of the said Ax of the Ellipse.

This opening of the two opposite semi-ellipses makes it impossible for anything to enter the remaining parts of this hollow cylinder, located between them and the solid cylinder, called the spindle, which continually rotates when the wheels are in motion. If you mark the spindle near the side of the mortise at the top end of the longest axis of the ellipse, then turn the spindle until this mark reaches the lower end of the same axis and make another mark on the spindle close to the side of the mortise, and then draw a line from one mark to the other parallel to the axis of the spindle, that line will represent the measurement of the bevel of the diameter of the hole. Every point on this line will, with one full revolution of the spindle, generate a circle that intersects the ellipse in two places: once on the front side of its longest axis and once on the backside or rear half of it. All these points on the surface of the spindle, described by these circles, will enter the hole through the rear semi-ellipse as the spindle rotates upward (which it always does), and they will all exit again through the front semi-ellipse as they descend toward the lower end of the axis of the ellipse.

As these Points thus come out of the Hole, or (if I may use the Expression) as they emerge, they oppose every thing that would enter the Hole, they still moving from the Hole, and push away from it whatever they meet; nay, if any thing were in the Hole, these Points (whereof this Surface consists) would bring it out by this Semi-ellipse, which is always press’d by the Seed when the Drill is at Work; but as these Points immerge by the other Semi-ellipsis which is behind the Spindle, they can carry with[338] them into the Hole nothing but Air, because the Cover never suffers any thing else to come there from above; and the Seed falls out of the Notches by its own Gravity, just before it reaches the lower End of the transverse Ax, being the Place where the opposite Ellipses are farthest asunder; and none of it is ever carried so far back as the hinder Semi-ellipses; and therefore nothing can be carried into the Hole from below.

As these points come out of the hole, or if I may put it this way, as they emerge, they push against anything trying to enter the hole, continuously moving away from it and pushing away whatever they encounter. In fact, if something were in the hole, these points (that make up this surface) would pull it out through this semi-ellipse, which is constantly pressed by the seed while the drill is in operation. However, as these points move into the other semi-ellipse behind the spindle, they can only bring air into the hole with them because the cover never allows anything else to come down from above. The seed falls out of the notches due to its own weight just before it reaches the lower end of the transverse axis, which is where the opposite ellipses are the farthest apart. None of it is ever pulled back as far as the rear semi-ellipses; therefore, nothing can be brought into the hole from below.

Thus that Part of the Surface of the Spindle will keep the Hole empty and clear, before ever any Notches are cut; but when the Notches are made on the Spindle, they have yet a much greater Force to drive and expel whatever would enter the Hole, their Shape being such as nothing can enter against their bevel Ends; but what is at their Ends will be thrown presently into the Mortise; insomuch that when a Spindle has been too little for the Hole by a Quarter of an Inch, that is, a sixth Part of the Diameter of the Hole, it will perform very well in drilling large Species of Seeds; and when the Mortise is run empty, nothing at all is found in the Hole, it being thus kept void and clean by the Notches.

Thus, that part of the surface of the spindle will keep the hole empty and clear, even before any notches are cut. However, once the notches are made on the spindle, they have an even greater force to push out anything that tries to enter the hole, as their shape prevents anything from entering against their angled ends. Whatever is at their ends will be quickly sent into the mortise; indeed, if a spindle is too small for the hole by a quarter of an inch, which is one-sixth of the diameter of the hole, it will still work well for drilling large seeds. When the mortise is emptied, nothing is found in the hole, as it is kept void and clean by the notches.

Note, That what is here, and elsewhere, said of the Ellipse of the one Side of the Mortise, must be understood the same of its opposite Ellipse, on the opposite Side of the Mortise.

Note that what is mentioned here, and in other places, regarding the Ellipse on one side of the Mortise should also be understood in the same way for the corresponding Ellipse on the opposite side of the Mortise.

All these Advantages accruing from this Bevel of the Mortise, I believe that, without it, all Attempts of making a Machine to perform the Work, which this does, would have been vain.

All these benefits from this angle of the mortise, I believe that without it, any attempts to create a machine to do the work that this does would have been pointless.

There is also within the Mortise unavoidably another Bevel, which is as the Reverse of the former, and notwithstanding is as useful; and this Bevel is, the Inclination which Part of the curvilineal Surface of the Spindle, beginning a little above the fore End of the shortest Diameter of the Ellipses, and descending down to the Seed-passage, has to the lower Part of[339] the Surface of the Tongue opposite against it. These Two Surfaces meeting one another below, when the Tongue is set up close to the Spindle, form a mix’d Angle, which stops up the Seed-passage, except when a Notch comes against it.

There is also another bevel in the mortise that is inevitably there, which is like the opposite of the first one, yet just as important. This bevel is the angle created by part of the curved surface of the spindle, starting a bit above the front end of the shortest diameter of the ellipses and slanting down to the seed passage, matching up with the lower part of the surface of the tongue that faces it. When these two surfaces meet below, with the tongue positioned close to the spindle, they form a mixed angle that blocks the seed passage, unless a notch aligns with it.

When the Tongue is set from the Spindle, to the Distance of several Diameters of one of the Seeds that are to be drill’d, this revers’d Bevel causes the Seed to arch at the Seed-passage, and stop there, till the Notches force it thro’, which would, without this Arching, fall out by its own Gravity, without the Turning of the Wheels.

When the tongue is moved away from the spindle to the distance of several diameters of one of the seeds that need to be drilled, this reversed bevel causes the seed to arch at the seed passage and stop there until the notches push it through. Without this arching, the seed would just fall out on its own due to gravity, without the wheels turning.

The Seed arches here the more firmly, the more it is press’d upon by the incumbent Seed from above it; and the former Bevel (which I call the Bevel of the Mortise) permits the incumbent Weight to press the harder on the Seed that is near the Seed-passage; and this might be reckon’d a fifth Use of the former Bevel: For as it prevents the Seed from arching in any other Part of the Mortise, so it does, by the same means, cause it to arch the more strongly at the Seed-passage, which is sometimes (viz. when the Tongue must be set wide) as necessary, as it is for it to escape arching before it comes thither. And the more strongly this Arch presses against the Tongue, the more the Tongue by its Spring presses against it; and this Pressure being reciprocal and equal, the Seed cannot fall out spontaneously; for when the Passage is thus wide, if you throw into the Mortise a few Seeds, suppose Five or Six at a time only, they will all pass through immediately, without any Motion of the Wheels; but if you throw in a large Quantity together, there will only a few of the lowermost fall through, unless the Wheels do turn and throw them down by the force of the Notches.

The Seed arches here more firmly, the more it's pressed on by the Seed above it; and the previous Bevel (which I refer to as the Bevel of the Mortise) allows the weight above to press more firmly on the Seed near the Seed-passage. This could be considered a fifth use of the previous Bevel: Just as it prevents the Seed from arching in any other part of the Mortise, it also causes it to arch more strongly at the Seed-passage, which is sometimes (i.e., when the Tongue has to be set wide) as necessary as for it to avoid arching before reaching that point. The stronger this Arch presses against the Tongue, the more the Tongue, through its Spring, presses back against it; and this pressure being equal and reciprocal, the Seed cannot fall out on its own. When the Passage is wide like this, if you drop a few Seeds into the Mortise, say Five or Six at a time, they will all pass through immediately, without any movement of the Wheels; but if you toss in a large quantity at once, only a few of the ones at the bottom will fall through, unless the Wheels turn and push them down using the force of the Notches.

Indeed we do not care to set the Tongue so very wide from the Spindle, unless it be when we are obliged to plant a very much larger Proportion of Seed[340] than the Notches are design’d for, and when we have no Opportunity of changing the Wheels for such as are lower, nor of changing the Spindle for another that has greater or more Notches in it.

Indeed, we don't want to spread the tongue too far from the spindle, unless we have to plant a significantly larger amount of seed[340] than the notches are intended for, and when we have no chance to swap the wheels for ones that are lower, or to replace the spindle with another that has more or deeper notches.

Four-and-twenty Gallons of large Peas are as proper a Proportion to drill on an Acre, as Six Gallons of Wheat are.

Four-and-twenty gallons of large peas are just the right amount to plant on an acre, just like six gallons of wheat are.

There are divers Ways to vary (i. e. increase or diminish) the Proportion of Seed; as, First, by the Setting-screw, with which we can, without any Inconveniency, set the Tongue so far from the Spindle, as to permit one Round of the Notches to turn out Four times the Quantity, as it will do when the Tongue is set close up to the Spindle; and thus we can vary the Proportion by innumerable intermediate Degrees.

There are different ways to adjust (i.e. increase or decrease) the amount of seed; for example, first, by using the setting screw, which allows us, without any hassle, to position the tongue far enough from the spindle to let one turn of the notches release four times the amount compared to when the tongue is set close to the spindle. This way, we can change the proportion in countless intermediate degrees.

Next, if we would increase the Proportion yet farther, we can inlarge the Notches; but we cannot add to their Number, unless there be room to double it, by making a new Notch between every Two; but we cannot diminish the Proportion of Seed by the same Notches, because they cannot be made lesser or fewer.

Next, if we want to increase the proportion even more, we can enlarge the notches; however, we can't add to their number unless there's space to double it by creating a new notch between every two. But we can't reduce the proportion of seeds using the same notches, because they can't be made smaller or fewer.

If we would make any other Alteration in the Proportion of Seed by the Notches, it must be done by making another Set of them; which we may do, because the wooden Spindle may have Three Rows of Notches in it, of which we may use either, by moving the Wreaths and Wheels towards one End or the other of the wooden Spindle; as shall be shewn in the Descriptions of the Hoppers.

If we want to change the ratio of seeds based on the notches, we need to create another set of notches. We can do this because the wooden spindle can have three rows of notches, and we can use any of them by adjusting the wreaths and wheels to one end or the other of the wooden spindle, as will be explained in the descriptions of the hoppers.

But as for the Brass Spindle of the Turnep-drill, we can have but one Set of Notches in it[267]: And[341] therefore, tho’ we can increase the Proportion of Seed by enlarging the Notches, or perhaps by doubling[342] their Number; yet we cannot lessen the Proportion of Seed by the Notches, unless we have a new Set of them, and that will occasion a Necessity of having another Spindle; but, as to the Setting-screw of the Turnep-drill, it will increase the Proportion of Seed with the same Notches, much more than the Setting-screw of the Wheat-drill will do.

But for the Brass Spindle of the turnip drill, we can only have one set of notches in it[267]: And[341] therefore, while we can increase the amount of seed by widening the notches, or maybe by doubling[342] their number; we cannot decrease the amount of seed by the notches unless we have a new set of them, which would require another spindle. However, regarding the setting screw of the turnip drill, it will increase the amount of seed with the same notches much more than the setting screw of the wheat drill will.

[267]But by putting on a Wreath (that is a little broader than the Mortise) upon the Spindle (made longer for that Purpose) we can, by changing this Wreath from one End of the Spindle to the other, have Two sets of Notches of different Sizes, and of different Numbers in it: Or if we would have Three Sets, we need only make Use of Two such Wreaths, and let the Spindle be long enough to receive them. So we may use which Set we please.

[267]But by adding a Wreath (which is slightly wider than the Mortise) onto the Spindle (extended for this purpose), we can create two sets of Notches of different sizes and counts by simply moving this Wreath from one end of the Spindle to the other. If we want three sets, we only need to use two such Wreaths and ensure the Spindle is long enough to accommodate them. This way, we can choose which set we prefer.

Tho’ several Sets of Notches may be useful to those who drill many Sorts of fine Seeds different in Magnitude in a very great Degree; yet I never found more than one Set of Notches necessary in this Spindle.

Though several sets of notches may be helpful for those who drill various types of fine seeds that differ greatly in size, I have never found more than one set of notches needed on this spindle.

Nor have I used any more than one Set of Notches in one Mortise of any Sort; but in a wide Mortise, there may be made a double Set of Notches, consisting of Two Rows, all of equal Bigness, and half of the Length, and double the Number of a single Row, one End of each Notch reaching to the Middle of the Mortise, and pointing against the End of an Interstice, that is between Two or its opposite Notches.

Nor have I used more than one set of notches in any type of mortise; however, in a wide mortise, you can create a double set of notches, which consists of two rows, all the same size, half the length, and double the number of a single row, with one end of each notch reaching the middle of the mortise and pointing towards the end of a gap that is between two of its opposite notches.

If ever there shall be Occasion for this Sort of Notches, it must be when a great Proportion of Seed is to be drill’d by a small Spindle, and low Wheels: The Smalness of the Spindle may not, by a single Set, admit of a sufficient Number of Notches (of a proper Bigness) in its Circumference; not that a double Set, by its double Number, will throw down a greater Quantity of Seed than a single Set of the same Width and Depth, but a less Quantity; But it may be feared, that a very small Number of Notches might not spread the Seed so much as to cause it to lie even in the Chanels, one Notchful falling all to the Ground, before any of the next Notchful reaches it, which would make Chasms or Gaps in the Row of Corn or Legumes: This, such a double Number of Notches will certainly prevent.

If there’s ever a need for these kinds of notches, it should be when a large amount of seed needs to be drilled using a small spindle and low wheels. The small size of the spindle may not allow for enough notches (of the right size) around its circumference in a single set; however, a double set won’t distribute a greater amount of seed than a single set of the same width and depth, but actually a smaller amount. There’s a concern that having too few notches might not spread the seed evenly, leading to uneven distribution in the channels, with one notch dropping all its seeds to the ground before another notch gets a chance to drop its seeds, which would create gaps in the row of corn or legumes. A double number of notches will definitely help avoid this issue.

It would seem, that the higher the Wheels, the more need there should be for this double Set of Notches: But it appears to be otherwise; for the greater Distance the Seed has to fall, the more it spreads, and strikes oftener against the Funnel and Trunk; and by that means a Notch from high Wheels will, with the same Quantity of Seed, supply a greater Length of the Chanel (or Furrow) than a Notch will from low Wheels.

It seems that the higher the wheels, the more necessary this double set of notches should be. However, it's actually the opposite; the greater the distance the seed has to fall, the more it spreads and hits the funnel and trunk more often. As a result, a notch from high wheels will cover a greater length of the channel (or furrow) with the same amount of seed than a notch from low wheels will.

In all my Practice I never had any Occasion for such a double Set of Notches, either with high or low Wheels, or even when I drilled into open Chanels, without Funnels or Trunks to my Drill-plough; and yet my Rows of St. Foin, and of Corn, were always free from Gaps, being equally supply’d with Seed from one End to the other.

In all my experience, I never needed such a double set of notches, whether using high or low wheels, or even when I drilled into open channels without funnels or trunks for my drill plow; yet my rows of sainfoin and corn were always without gaps, evenly supplied with seed from one end to the other.

If ever there is Occasion for more than a single Set, it must be for Beans, for which also I think a large Spindle is better than a double Set of Notches in a small one. The largest Spindle I have known made, is of Two Inches and an half Diameter, and that only for Horse-Beans.

If there’s ever a reason to have more than one set, it should be for beans. I also believe a large spindle is better than a double set of notches on a smaller one. The largest spindle I’ve seen made is two and a half inches in diameter, and that was only for horse beans.

The best Sort of Notches for a double Set are those which have convex Bottoms; because such are less liable to drop their Seeds without the turning of the Wheels, than any other Sort: And a double Set must be in greater Danger of this, as the Tongue is always hindered from pressing so closely against any Notch, being held open by the Seeds on the opposite Interstice; which is contrary to a single Set, where no Seed can lodge at either End of a Notch, to hold open the Tongue, or hinder its pressing against it.

The best type of notches for a double set are the ones with curved bottoms. This is because they are less likely to drop their seeds without the wheels turning compared to other types. A double set is at a greater risk for this since the tongue can’t press tightly against any notch, as it’s kept open by the seeds in the slot on the opposite side. This is different from a single set, where no seed can get stuck at either end of a notch to keep the tongue open or prevent it from pressing against it.

Note, When I made my Boxes of Wood, I had double Boxes, with a Partition between such a double Set of Notches; but never made such in Brass, not knowing whether that Partition, by its Thinness of hard Metal, might not cut the Spindle: Yet I never found any Occasion for a double Row of Notches. I made those double Boxes only for drilling Two Sorts of Seeds at once into the same Chanel.

Note: When I created my Wooden Boxes, I used double boxes with a partition between the two sets of notches; however, I never made them in brass since I wasn't sure if the thin metal partition might damage the spindle. Still, I never found a reason to have a double row of notches. I designed those double boxes only to drill two types of seeds at the same time into the same channel.

The other Way of varying the Proportion of Seed in the same Boxes, is by the Diameter of the Wheels, when we can alter them; for Wheels, of what Diameter soever they are, must turn round all the Notches at one Revolution; so that Wheels of Twenty Inches Diameter will deliver out a third Part more Seed than Wheels of Thirty Inches Diameter, into the same Length of the Chanels; but we seldom have any Occasion to alter the Wheels, unless it be on account of planting a Species of Seed of a different Magnitude, as the largest Sort of Peas, and small-grain’d Wheat, or St. Foin Seed are.

The other way to change the amount of seed in the same boxes is by adjusting the diameter of the wheels when we can. Regardless of their size, wheels must rotate all the notches with each turn; therefore, wheels that are 20 inches in diameter will distribute about a third more seed than wheels that are 30 inches in diameter over the same length of channels. However, we rarely need to change the wheels, unless we’re planting a type of seed that has a different size, like the largest peas, small-grained wheat, or St. Foin seed.

These are all the Ways we have to alter the Proportion of Seed, we drill with the same Seed-boxes;[343] these Two Sizes, already described, being sufficient for all Sorts of Corn and Seeds which we commonly sow, from Marrow-peas to Turnep-seed; but, for drilling of Beans, the Boxes must be larger, and are commonly made of Wood, the Spindle Two Inches Diameter, or more, and the Boxes Two Inches wide: Where note, That this Increasing of the Width of the Mortise, from an Inch and an half, to Two Inches, increases the Quantity of Seed to almost double; because this Half Inch is all added to the Middle of the Notches, where they are deeper than their Ends; the Bevel of which takes up a considerable Part of the Length of the Notches. For Beans, they also contrive to have their Wheels as low as conveniently they can. These Wooden Drills are now become common in many Places.

These are all the ways we can change the amount of seed we plant with the same seed boxes;[343] the two sizes already described are enough for all types of corn and seeds that we typically sow, from marrow peas to turnip seed. However, for planting beans, the boxes need to be bigger and are usually made of wood, with the spindle being two inches in diameter or more and the boxes two inches wide. Note that increasing the width of the mortise from one and a half inches to two inches nearly doubles the amount of seed because that extra half inch is added in the middle of the notches, where they are deeper than at the ends; the bevel takes up a significant part of the length of the notches. For beans, they also design the wheels to be as low as possible. These wooden drills have now become common in many places.

The Wooden and Brass Seed-boxes differ not in any of the most essential Parts of them; only the Wooden Box must be thicker, as the Wood is not so strong as Brass; the Spring is made strait instead of crooked; and, being let into the Back of the Wooden Tongue, bears against it at each End; and the Chanel, into which it is placed, being made hollow in the Middle, the Spring has its Play there, and must be stiffer and have a little more Play in the Bean-drill, than in any lesser Seed-box.

The Wooden and Brass Seed-boxes differ only in some important aspects; the Wooden Box needs to be thicker because wood isn't as strong as brass. The spring is straight instead of bent, and it fits into the back of the wooden tongue, pressing against it at both ends. The channel where it sits is hollow in the middle, allowing the spring to have some movement there. The spring also needs to be stiffer and have a bit more play in the bean-drill compared to any smaller seed-box.

I, at first, made all my Seed-boxes of dry Box-tree Wood, which performed very well, and are still used: But, a few Years ago, a Gentleman advised me to make them in Brass; the doing of which has put me to a great deal of Trouble and Expence, for want of understanding the Founder’s Art: Yet this I do not repent, because they are, in some respect, better than those made in Wood; especially to those who do not well understand their Fabric; for, to such, the Swelling and Shrinking of the Wood was inconvenient in small Boxes: And I now am told, that they are cast in London of the best Brass, at the Price of One[344] Shilling per Pound, and so smooth as to require very little filing. And these Brass Boxes being also more lasting than Wood, and not much more expensive, when Workmen know how to make them, I think it not worth while to give any particular Directions for making them in Wood.

I initially made all my seed boxes out of dry boxwood, which worked really well and are still in use. However, a few years ago, a gentleman suggested I make them out of brass. Doing that has caused me a lot of trouble and expense because I didn’t understand metalworking. But I don’t regret it because they are, in some ways, better than the wooden ones, especially for those who aren't familiar with how to make them. For those people, the swelling and shrinking of the wood can be a hassle in small boxes. I've now heard that they are cast in London from the best brass at the price of one[344] shilling per pound and are so smooth that they need very little filing. Plus, these brass boxes last longer than wooden ones and aren’t much more expensive when craftsmen know how to make them, so I don’t think it’s worth providing detailed instructions for making them out of wood.

As to the Spindles of the Turnep-boxes, I have often made them with a mix’d Metal, of half Pewter, and half Spelter, which perform very well, and are easily made; because this Metal will melt, almost as soon as Lead, in a Fire-shovel, to be cast in a Mould; but Brass will not melt without a Crucible.

As for the spindles of the turnip boxes, I've often made them with a mixed metal, half pewter and half spelter, which works really well and is easy to make. This metal will melt almost as quickly as lead in a fire shovel so it can be cast in a mold, but brass won’t melt without a crucible.

The first Idea that I form’d of this Machine, was thus: I imagin’d the Mortise, or Groove, brought from the Sound-board of an Organ, together with the Tongue and Spring, all of them much alter’d; the Mortise having an Hole therein, and put on upon one of the Iron Gudgeons of the Wheelbarrow; which Gudgeon being enlarg’d to an Inch and an half Diameter, having on it the Notches of the Cylinder of a Cyder-mill, on that Part of it which should be within the Mortise, and this Mortise made in the Ear of the Wheelbarrow (thro’ which the Gudgeon usually passes), made broad enough for the Purpose; this I hoped, for any thing I saw to the contrary, might perform this Work of Drilling; and herein I was not deceived.

The first idea I had about this machine was like this: I imagined the mortise, or groove, taken from the soundboard of an organ, along with the tongue and spring, all modified a lot; the mortise having a hole in it and attached to one of the iron shafts of the wheelbarrow; this shaft being enlarged to an inch and a half in diameter, with notches on it for the cylinder of a cider mill, on that part of it which would go inside the mortise, and this mortise made in the ear of the wheelbarrow (through which the shaft usually passes), made wide enough for the purpose; I thought this might perform the drilling work, and I was not mistaken.

As for placing a Box over this Mortise to carry a sufficient Quantity of Seed, it was a thing so obvious, that it occasion’d very little Thought; and an Instrument for making the Chanels, not much more; neither for applying Two Wheels, one at each End of the Axis, instead of the single Wheel in the Middle of the Axis of the Wheelbarrow.

As for putting a box over this mortise to hold enough seed, it was so obvious that it hardly required any thought; the tool for creating the channels was no different. And using two wheels, one at each end of the axle, instead of the single wheel in the middle of the wheelbarrow didn't take much consideration either.

At first my Plough made open Chanels, and was very rude, being composed of Four rough Pieces of Planks, of little Value, held together by Three Shoots, or Pieces of Wood, which held them at a Foot Distance[345] one from the other; These Pieces, being cut sharp at Bottom, made the Chanels tolerably well in fine Ground. But I soon contrived a Plough with Four Iron Shares, to make Chanels in any Ground: This drew a Hopper after it, having Four Seed-boxes at its Bottom, carried on a Spindle by Two low Wheels, which had Liberty to rise and sink by the Clods that they pass’d over: The Seed-boxes delivered their Seed immediately into the open Chanels.

At first, my plow created open channels and was pretty basic, made of four rough pieces of wood held together by three wooden rods that kept them a foot apart. The ends of these pieces were sharpened, which allowed the channels to form reasonably well in soft soil. But I quickly designed a plow with four iron blades to create channels in any type of ground. This was attached to a hopper that had four seed boxes at the bottom, mounted on a spindle with two low wheels that could lift and lower over the clods they passed. The seed boxes released their seeds directly into the open channels.

Plate 3

Plate. 3

Plate 3

P. 344

P. 344

W Thorpe sculp.

W Thorpe sculpt.

This Plough and Hopper were drawn by an Horse, and the Seed, lying open in the Chanels, was covered sometimes by a very light Harrow, and sometimes by an Hurdle stuck with Bushes underneath it.

This plow and hopper were pulled by a horse, and the seed, left out in the furrows, was occasionally covered by a light harrow and sometimes by a hurdle with bushes stuck under it.

I soon improv’d this Plough to perform better, and to make Six Chanels at once, and sometimes a great many more.

I quickly improved this plow to work more effectively, allowing it to create six channels at once, and sometimes even many more.

This Plough and Hopper, with their Improvements and Alterations, are shewn in Plates 4. and 5.

This Plough and Hopper, along with their upgrades and changes, are shown in Plates 4. and 5.


Chapter 21.
Of the Wheat-Drill.

Drill plough

Fig. 1. in Plate 4. is the Drill-plough, which makes the Chanels for a treble Row of Wheat, at Seven-inch Partitions, and covers the Seed by the Harrow which moves on its Beams. A, is the Plank, Three Feet and an half long, Eight Inches and an half broad, one Inch and a quarter thick; its upper and under Surfaces are true Planes. B, B, the Two Beams, each Two Feet Four Inches long, Two Inches Three quarters broad, and Two Inches and a quarter deep, standing under the Plank at right Angles with it, and held up to it by the Four Screws and Nuts aaaa₂ the one being at the same Distance from[346] the right, as the other is from the left End of the Plank.

Fig. 1. in Plate 4. is the Drill-plough, which creates channels for a triple row of wheat, spaced seven inches apart, and covers the seed with the harrow that moves on its beams. A is the plank, three and a half feet long, eight and a half inches wide, and one and a quarter inches thick; its upper and lower surfaces are flat. B, B, the two beams, each two feet four inches long, two and three-quarter inches wide, and two and a quarter inches deep, are positioned under the plank at right angles, held up by the four screws and nuts aaaa₂, one being the same distance from the right end as the other is from the left end of the plank.

This Plough makes its Chanels by Three Sheats, and their Shares and Trunks; the First or Foremost of which Sheats stands under the Middle of the Plank, with Part of it appearing at b; and is fully describ’d in Fig. 2, where A is the Tenon, of a convenient Size, Two Inches broad between Shoulder and Shoulder, Three quarters of an Inch thick: It is driven into the Plank thro’ a Mortise, and pinn’d up by its Hole: It stands thus obliquely, and pointing forwards, that it may stand the more out of the Way of the Funnel. The Shoulder at a is a quarter of an Inch. The hinder Shoulder, from the Tenon to the Angle at b, is Three quarters of an Inch. The Depth of the Back of the Sheat, and Thickness of the Share, when it is on, from b to c, is Nine Inches and a quarter; and the Angle at c must be a right Angle, contrary to the Opinion of some, who fansy it ought to be acute, supposing that when this Angle is right, whilst the Seed is descending by the Back of the Sheat, the Plough, as it moves forwards, would get before the Seed, and so it might fall to the Ground behind the Trunk; but this Mistake is for want of considering the vast Disproportion between the Celerity of the Seed’s descending near the Earth, and the slow Progress of the Plough; the Seed descending at the Rate of Sixteen Feet in a Second of Time, and the Plough proceeding but about Three Miles an Hour, does not advance the Thickness of a Seed, whilst it is falling to the Ground by the whole Depth of the Sheat.

This plow creates its channels using three sheets, along with their shares and trunks. The first or foremost of these sheets is positioned under the middle of the plank, with part of it showing at b. It's fully described in Fig. 2, where A is the tenon, which is a convenient size—two inches wide between shoulders and three-quarters of an inch thick. It is inserted into the plank through a mortise and secured by its hole. It is tilted forward to stay clear of the funnel. The shoulder at a is a quarter of an inch. The back shoulder, from the tenon to the angle at b, is three-quarters of an inch. The depth of the back of the sheet and the thickness of the share, when it's attached, from b to c, is nine and a quarter inches; and the angle at c must be a right angle, contrary to what some think, who believe it should be acute. They assume that when this angle is right, as the seed travels down the back of the sheet, the plow, moving forward, would go ahead of the seed and cause it to fall behind the trunk. However, this misunderstanding comes from not considering the large difference between the speed of the seed falling near the ground and the slow movement of the plow. The seed falls at a rate of sixteen feet per second, while the plow moves at about three miles per hour, which doesn’t equal the thickness of a seed while it’s falling to the ground through the entire depth of the sheet.

The Thickness of the Sheat is an Inch, at its upper Part. The rest of it is to be no thicker than the Breadth of the Share.

The thickness of the sheath is one inch at the top. The rest of it should be no thicker than the width of the share.

Foremost sheat
Inverted share
Lateral view of share

 

Fig. 3. is the Share, lying Bottom upwards. a is its Point. b the Socket, Three Inches long, Seven Sixteenths of an Inch broad. c is the Hole, by which it is fastened up to the Sheat. d is another Hole, which is never made use of, except when the Share,[347] being fasten’d up by the other Hole, inclines to either Side; then we draw it right by a Nail driven into this Hole. e, e, are Two very small Notches, into which the Sides of the Trunk are jointed, to protect them from being torn out by the Earth or Stones that might rub against them, f is the Tail of the Share, which, when it is in its Place, will make the right Angle before described in Fig. 2. and from which Tail, to the Fore-part of the Socket, is the Length of the Bottom of the Sheat, viz. Six Inches and an half. The Breadth of the Share Three quarters of an Inch.

Fig. 3. is the Share, positioned with the bottom facing up. a is its Point. b is the Socket, which is three inches long and seven-sixteenths of an inch wide. c is the Hole that attaches it to the Sheat. d is another Hole, which is rarely used unless the Share, being fastened with the other Hole, tilts to either side; then we straighten it by driving a Nail into this Hole. e, e are two very small Notches, where the Sides of the Trunk connect to prevent them from being pulled out by the soil or stones that might press against them. f is the Tail of the Share, which, when in position, will create the right angle described earlier in Fig. 2., and the distance from this Tail to the front part of the Socket is the length of the bottom of the Sheat, specifically six and a half inches. The width of the Share is three-quarters of an inch.

Fig. 4. shews one Side of the Share. The prick’d Line a e shews the Bevel of the Fore-end of the Socket, the upper Edge of which must bear upon the Fore-part of the Sheat below f in Fig. 2. and the other Part of the Share will bear against the Bottom of the Sheat, from d to c, and will be fastened up by a flat Nail, passing thro’ the foremost Hole of the Share, and entering the Hole g in the Sheat; which Nail being bended in the said Hole (which Hole should be at least an Inch Diameter) will hold the Share fast to the Sheat; and, by unbending this Nail, the Share may be easily taken off, upon Occasion, without damaging the Sheat. Note, This Hole in the Share ought to be wider below than above, and the Head of the Nail of the same Shape; or else, as the Share wears thinner, it might come off. The prick’d Line, near the Fore-part of the Sheat, shews where a Shoulder must be cut on each Side of it, because otherwise the Sheat, being thicker than the Breadth of the Socket of the Share, could not enter it: But take care, that the Share do not bear against these Shoulders.

Fig. 4. shows one side of the share. The dotted line a e indicates the bevel of the front end of the socket, whose upper edge must rest on the front part of the sheath below f in Fig. 2.. The other part of the share will press against the bottom of the sheath, from d to c, and will be secured with a flat nail that goes through the front hole of the share and into hole g in the sheath. This nail, when bent in the hole (which should be at least an inch in diameter), will hold the share firmly to the sheath; and by unbending this nail, the share can be easily removed when needed, without damaging the sheath. Note: This hole in the share should be wider at the bottom than at the top, and the head of the nail should be shaped the same way; otherwise, as the share wears down, it could come off. The dotted line near the front of the sheath shows where a shoulder must be cut on each side of it, because if not, the sheath, being thicker than the width of the socket of the share, wouldn’t fit. But be careful that the share does not press against these shoulders.

Fig. 5. is one Side of the Trunk, being a thin Plate of Iron, and is often made of the Blade of an old Scythe: It is to be riveted on to one Side of the Sheat, to another of the same on the opposite Side, by Three Rivets passing thro’ them both, with the Sheat in the Middle of them; which Holes appear[348] both in the Plate and in the Sheat. These thus riveted on do form the Trunk at the Back of the Sheat. The whole Breadth of this Plate is an Inch and Three quarters; but Three-eighths of an Inch being riveted on to the Sheat, there remains but an Inch and Three-eighths for the Trunk. The Length of the Plate is the same with the Depth of the Sheat and Share, except that it should not reach to the Bottom of the Share, by about the Thickness of a Barley-corn, to the end that it may not bear against the Ground, as the Share doth. The Notch at the Bottom of the Plate is that which answers the Notch in the Tail of the Share: The Corner of the Plate at a we make a little roundish, that it may not wear against the Ground.

Fig. 5. is one side of the trunk, consisting of a thin iron plate, which is often made from an old scythe blade. It needs to be attached to one side of the sheath, and another identical piece on the opposite side, using three rivets that go through both, with the sheath in the middle. The holes for the rivets are visible in both the plate and the sheath. When these are riveted together, they form the trunk at the back of the sheath. The entire width of this plate is one and three-quarters inches; however, as three-eighths of an inch is riveted onto the sheath, only one and three-eighths inches remains for the trunk. The length of the plate is the same as the depth of the sheath and share, except that it should be about the thickness of a barley grain away from the bottom of the share, so it doesn't touch the ground like the share does. The notch at the bottom of the plate corresponds to the notch in the tail of the share. The corner of the plate at a is rounded slightly to prevent wear against the ground.

Side of trunk
Trunk

 

This Plate thus riveted on the Sheat, and another of the same Form on the other Side opposite to it, compose the Trunk, which is Fig. 6. a d is the Edge a b of the Plate Fig. 5. b c is the like Edge of the opposite Side of the Trunk. A is the Back of the Sheat, which, together with the Tail of the Share when in its Place, makes the Fore-part or Length of the Trunk. The Thickness of this Back of the Sheat is the Width of the Trunk; and from this Back of the Sheat to the said Edges of the Plates, may be call’d the Depth of the Trunk. The upper Ends of these Two Plates a and b we spread open a quarter of an Inch wider, for half an Inch down, than the rest of the Trunk, for the more free Reception of the Seed from the Hole of the Funnel: We likewise take care, that the Two lower hinder Concerns of the Trunk do not incline to one another, to make the Trunk narrower than the Back of the Sheat, lest the Earth should be held in by them, and fill the Bottom of the Trunk.

This plate is attached to the sheath, and another one of the same shape is on the opposite side, forming the trunk. The edge labeled a is the edge a b of the plate, and b c is the same edge on the opposite side of the trunk. A is the back of the sheath, which, along with the tail of the share when in place, makes up the front part or length of the trunk. The thickness of the back of the sheath is the width of the trunk; and the distance from this back of the sheath to the edges of the plates is referred to as the depth of the trunk. The upper ends of these two plates, a and b, are flared open a quarter of an inch wider for half an inch down than the rest of the trunk, to allow for easier seed flow from the hole of the funnel. We also ensure that the two lower back sections of the trunk do not lean towards each other, which would make the trunk narrower than the back of the sheath, as this could trap soil and fill the bottom of the trunk.

Hind sheat
Parts of share

 

Fig. 7. is one of the hinder Sheats, and appears, in part, at c in Fig. 1. It is fastened into one of the Beams by its Tenon, which, being driven into a Mortise, is pinn’d in by a Pin passing thro’ the Beam, and[349] the Tenon cut off even with the upper Surface of the Beam: This Tenon stands more oblique than that of the fore Sheat, that there may be the more Wood between its Mortise and the Funnel, its hinder Shoulder being short: Its fore Shoulder at a must be very short, not above the Eighth of an Inch; but its Shoulder b Three quarters of an Inch. The Tenon is also shoulder’d on each Side, as well as before and behind. The Thickness of this Sheat should be greater than that of the Fore-sheat, because it is much narrower. The Depth of this Sheat, is less than the Fore-sheat, by the Depth of the Beam: It is, in all other respects, the same with the Fore-sheat, except that it and its Share are shorter. The Socket of this Share is but an Inch and One-eighth long, its Breadth half an Inch, and from the Fore-part of the Bottom of the Socket to the End of its Tail, but three Inches. Its Point from the Socket at Bottom is but Three quarters of an Inch, whereas the Point of the Fore-share is an Inch and Three quarters: There is but one Hole whereby the Share is fastened up to the Sheat. Its Trunk is no wider than the other; for we cut a Rabbet on each Side of the Sheat, that the Plates, which are the Sides of the Trunk, may come within Three quarters of an Inch of one another. Its Tenon, being narrower than the Tenon of the Fore-sheat, must be thicker than it.

Fig. 7. is one of the rear Sheats and appears, in part, at c in Fig. 1.. It's secured into one of the Beams by its Tenon, which is driven into a Mortise and held in place by a Pin that goes through the Beam, and[349] the Tenon is trimmed flush with the upper Surface of the Beam. This Tenon is at a steeper angle than that of the front Sheat, allowing more Wood between its Mortise and the Funnel, as its rear Shoulder is short. Its front Shoulder at a must be very short, not more than an Eighth of an Inch; but its Shoulder b is Three-quarters of an Inch. The Tenon is also shouldered on each Side, as well as in front and behind. The Thickness of this Sheat should be greater than that of the Front-sheat, since it is much narrower. The Depth of this Sheat is less than the Front-sheat by the Depth of the Beam. In all other respects, it is the same as the Front-sheat, except that it and its Share are shorter. The Socket of this Share is only one and an eighth inches long, its Width is half an Inch, and from the Front part of the Bottom of the Socket to the End of its Tail, it measures only three Inches. Its Point from the Socket at the Bottom is just three-quarters of an Inch, while the Point of the Front-share is one and three-quarters inches: There is only one Hole to secure the Share to the Sheat. Its Trunk is the same width as the others; we cut a Rabbet on each Side of the Sheat so that the Plates, which are the Sides of the Trunk, can come within three-quarters of an Inch of each other. Its Tenon, being narrower than the Tenon of the Front-sheat, must be thicker than it.

The other Hinder-sheat, and all its Accoutrements, must be the same as this of Fig. 7.

The other hind sheath and all its accessories must be the same as this one from Fig. 7.

The Workman must take care, that the Tenons of the Sheats be not made cross the Grain of the Wood; and therefore must make them of crooked Timber.

The worker must make sure that the tenons of the sheathing are not made against the grain of the wood; and so must use warped timber.

Fig. 8. shews how the Share is made of Four Pieces; of which a is a Piece of Steel for the Point, its larger End being cut bevel for the Shape of the Fore-end of the Socket. b is a Piece of Iron for the other End of the Share, from the Socket to the Tail: The other Two Pieces c and d are the Iron Sides, which, being[350] welded on to the other Two Pieces, and cut off to the Length, form the Share, with its Socket, more exact than it can be made out of one Piece of Iron.

Fig. 8. shows how the Share is made of four pieces; of which a is a piece of steel for the point, its larger end being cut at an angle for the shape of the front end of the socket. b is a piece of iron for the other end of the share, from the socket to the tail: The other two pieces c and d are the iron sides, which, being [350] welded onto the other two pieces and cut to length, form the share with its socket, more precisely than it could be made from a single piece of iron.

Now we return to the first Figure; where the Fore-sheat being fix’d up at equal Distance from each End of the Plank, and as near to the hinder Edges of it as can be, allowing room for the Funnel C to stand with the Fore-side of its Hole, to make one Surface with the Back of the Sheat, and for the hinder Part of the Trunk not to reach the Edge of the Plank, there must be also room for the Fore-standard D to stand perpendicular to the Plank, across the Tenon of the Sheat.

Now we go back to the first Figure; where the fore-sheat is attached at equal distances from each end of the plank and as close to the back edges as possible, leaving space for funnel C to fit with the front of its hole in line with the back of the sheat, and for the back part of the trunk not to extend to the edge of the plank. There also needs to be space for fore-standard D to be vertical to the plank, across the tenon of the sheat.

This Standard being close to the Fore-side of the fore Hopper, there must be so much room between it and the Hole of the Funnel, that the Seed may drop from the Seed-box into the Middle of this Hole. Thus much for placing the Fore-sheat.

This Standard being near the front of the fore Hopper, there must be enough space between it and the Hole of the Funnel so that the Seed can drop from the Seed-box into the center of this Hole. That's all for positioning the Fore-sheat.

Next, for the Two hinder Sheats; they must be placed at equal Distance from the Sides of the Beams, and so near to the hinder Ends of the Beams, that there may be room to make the Funnels in them, and their Tenons to come up between their respective Funnels E and F, and their respective Standards G and H, which Standards must be set perpendicular to the Beams.

Next, for the two back sheets; they should be positioned at equal distances from the sides of the beams, and close enough to the back ends of the beams to allow for the funnels to be made in them, with their tenons fitting between the respective funnels E and F, and their respective standards G and H, which standards must be set perpendicular to the beams.

The Distance of these Sheats from the Plank must be such, that the Wheels of the hinder Hopper may not strike against the Plank, nor against the Spindle of the fore Hopper; and the Semidiameters of these Wheels being Eleven Inches, there ought to be a Foot between the Centre of each Wheel and the Plank; but we sometimes cut Notches in the Plank, to prevent the Circle of the Wheels from coming too near the Plank.

The distance of these sheets from the plank should be such that the wheels of the back hopper don’t hit the plank or the spindle of the front hopper. Since the diameters of these wheels are eleven inches, there should be a foot between the center of each wheel and the plank. However, we sometimes cut notches in the plank to keep the circle of the wheels from getting too close to it.

For the nearer the hinder Sheats stand to the Plank, the better; but these Beams may be placed nearer to, or farther from the Plank, by their Screws and Nuts, at Pleasure.

For the closer the back supports are to the board, the better; but these beams can be positioned closer to or farther from the board using their screws and nuts, as desired.

[351]

[351]

These Beams must be set at such a Distance from one another, that the Shares may be Fifteen Inches asunder from the Inside of one to the Outside of the other.

These beams must be set at a distance from each other so that the gaps are fifteen inches from the inside of one to the outside of the other.

To try whether all these Sheats and Shares are truly placed, set the Plough upon a level Surface; and then, if they be right, the Fore-share will touch the Surface by its Point and Tail, and likewise the hinder Sheats will do the same; except that some Workmen will have it, that the Plough goes better, when the Tails of the hinder Sheats are a Barley-corn’s Thickness higher than their Points; and then their Tails will want so much of touching the Surface.

To check if all these shares and blades are properly positioned, set the plow on a level surface. If they are correct, the front share should touch the surface at both its point and tail, and the rear blades should do the same. However, some workers believe that the plow operates better when the tails of the rear blades are a barleycorn's thickness higher than their points, which means their tails won't quite touch the surface.

The Shares must be all of them parallel to the Beams, and consequently to one another.

The shares must all be parallel to the beams, and therefore to each other.

The Chanel made by the fore Share and Sheat for the middle Row, being at equal Distance between the Two hinder Sheats, is cover’d by them, they raising the Mould over the Seed from each Side of this Chanel.

The channel created by the front share and shears for the middle row, positioned at an equal distance between the two back shears, is covered by them, as they elevate the mold over the seed from each side of this channel.

The Harrow I is drawn by the Beams, to which it is fastened to their Insides at d and e, having each a small Iron Pin, passing thro’ each End of the Legs of the Harrow, and thro’ the Beams; each having a Nut on the Outsides of the Beams, and being square in the Beams, that they may not turn therein to loosen their Nuts; but are round near their Heads, that the Harrow may easily move thereon.

The Harrow I is attached to the Beams at points d and e, with each end secured by a small iron pin that goes through the Legs of the Harrow and the Beams. Each pin has a nut on the outside of the Beams and is designed to be square within the Beams so that it doesn't turn and loosen the nuts. However, the pins are round near their heads to allow the Harrow to move easily on them.

The round Ends of the Legs of the Harrow are put thro’ its Head I, at the round Holes f and g; and pinned in behind it, to the end that either Tine of the Harrow may descend at the same time that the other rises, where the Ground is uneven.

The rounded ends of the legs of the harrow are inserted through its head I, at the round holes f and g; and pinned in behind it, so that either tine of the harrow can go down at the same time the other goes up, when the ground is uneven.

The Two wooden Tines K and L are pinned in above the Head, and have each of them a Shoulder underneath. They stand sloping; so that if they take hold of any Clods, they do not drive them before them, but rise over them. They are of a convenient[352] Length, to give room for the Harrow to sink and rise, without raising up the Shares; and to give them the more room to move: The Legs of the Harrow are crook’d downwards in the Middle.

The two wooden tines K and L are secured above the head and each has a shoulder underneath. They are angled so that if they catch any clods, they won’t push them forward but instead rise over them. They are a suitable length to allow the harrow to sink and rise without lifting the shares, giving them more space to move. The legs of the harrow are bent downward in the middle.

The Distance of these Tines from each other is Twenty-two Inches; so that each Tine going Three Inches and an half on the Outside of each Chanel that is next it, fills it up with Earth upon the Seed, from the Outsides of it; which causes the Rows to come up something nearer the inner Sides of the Chanels, than to the outer Sides, from whence the Earth is brought into them by the Tines; and the Two outer Rows by this means come up at Fourteen Inches asunder, tho’ the Chanels were Fifteen Inches asunder.

The distance between these tines is twenty-two inches; so each tine goes three and a half inches outside of the channel next to it, filling it with dirt over the seed from the outside. This means that the rows come up a bit closer to the inner sides of the channels than to the outer sides, where the dirt is brought in by the tines. As a result, the two outer rows end up being fourteen inches apart, even though the channels are fifteen inches apart.

This way of covering adds more Mould to the Top of a Ridge; whereas, if the Chanels were covered by Tines going within or between them, the Mould would be thrown down from the Top of the Ridge: And these Tines stand with their Edges and Points inclining outwards, by which means they bring in the more Earth to the Chanels.

This method of covering adds more soil to the top of a ridge; however, if the channels were covered with tines going into or between them, the soil would be pushed down from the top of the ridge. These tines are positioned with their edges and points pointing outward, which helps to bring more earth into the channels.

If we find, that the Harrow is too light, we tie a Stone upon it, to make it heavier; and sometimes we fix a small Box of Board on the Middle of it, to hold Clods of Earth for that Purpose.

If we find that the harrow is too light, we attach a stone to it to make it heavier; and sometimes we attach a small wooden box in the middle to hold clumps of dirt for that purpose.

Top view of seed funnel

The fore Funnel C has its upper Edges Two Inches high above the Surface of the Plank. It is Five Inches Square at Top; its Four opposite Sides being Planes equally inclin’d to each other downwards, until they end at the Hole in the Bottom of the Funnel, which Hole is continued quite thro’ the Plank into the Trunk. The Shape of this Hole is shewn in Fig. 9. where the Four Lines a b, b c, c d, and d a, each Line being Three quarters of an Inch, make a true Square, and are the upper Edges of the Hole. The Three prick’d Lines e f, f g, and g h, being each of them longer than the former, tho’ as little as possible, make the Three lower Edges of the Hole; which being[353] thus wider below than above, and having all its Sides true Planes and smooth, it is impossible for the Seed to arch therein. The fore Side of this Hole is perpendicular to the upper and lower Surfaces of the Plank, and, together with the Back of the Sheat, makes one Plane Surface.

The front Funnel C has its upper edges two inches high above the surface of the plank. It's five inches square at the top, with four opposite sides that are evenly sloped downward until they reach the hole at the bottom of the funnel, which goes straight through the plank into the trunk. The shape of this hole is shown in Fig. 9. where the four lines a b, b c, c d, and d a, each measuring three-quarters of an inch, form a perfect square and are the upper edges of the hole. The three dotted lines e f, f g, and g h, each slightly longer than the previous lines, create the three lower edges of the hole. This means that the hole is wider at the bottom than at the top, and since all its sides are flat and smooth, it’s impossible for the seed to arch inside it. The front side of this hole is vertical to the upper and lower surfaces of the plank and, together with the back of the sheet, forms one flat surface.

When we drill a large Species of Seed, as Peas or Oats, we can make this Hole a full Inch square at Top, and of the same Shape wider at Bottom; which tho’ it be wider than the Trunk, except at its Top, the Seed will not arch there, because there is room behind, the Plates being broader than the Sides of the Hole; for there can be no Arching in the Trunk, unless the Seed were confin’d behind as well as on each Side.

When we plant a large type of seed, like peas or oats, we can make this hole a full inch square at the top and the same shape wider at the bottom. Although it's wider than the trunk except at the top, the seed won't arch there because there's space behind it, as the plates are broader than the sides of the hole. There can't be any arching in the trunk unless the seed is confined behind as well as on each side.

The Holes of our Funnels ought to be of the same Shape with this described; tho’, as I am inform’d, the Pretenders to the making of this Plough make the Holes of their Funnels the Reverse of this; which being wrong-way upwards, the Seed is apt to arch in them, except the Holes are very large.

The holes in our funnels should have the same shape as described here; however, I've been told that those who claim to make this plow create the holes of their funnels the opposite way. Since these are upside down, the seeds tend to get stuck in them unless the holes are quite large.

Of this Plough, Fig. 1. the Two hinder Funnels E and F differ from the fore Funnel (which has been described), first, in Dimensions; these not being so deep, because they being made in the very Beams, their upper Edges are in the upper Surface of the Beams, and their Holes at the Bottom, being about the Eighth of an Inch deep. The Depth of the Funnels must want the Eighth of an Inch of the Thickness of the Beams; but we make each Funnel an Inch and a quarter broader at Top than its Beam, by adding a Piece of Wood to each Side of its Beam, which reaches down about half-way its Thickness; and these Pieces being firmly fix’d on by Nails, to the Sides of each Beam, the Legs of the Harrow take hold of these Pieces, which are in the Inside of these Beams. When the Plough is taken up to be turn’d, the Man who turns it takes hold of the[354] Head of the Harrow with one Hand, and lays the other upon the Hopper, or Spindle, to keep it level, and to prevent either of the fore Wheels from striking against the Ground, whilst the Plough is turning round.

Of this Plow, Fig. 1. the two back Funnels E and F differ from the front Funnel (which we already described) mainly in size; they are not as deep because they are made within the very Beams, with their upper edges level with the top surface of the Beams, and their holes at the bottom being about an eighth of an inch deep. The depth of the Funnels must fall short of the thickness of the Beams by an eighth of an inch; however, we make each Funnel an inch and a quarter wider at the top than its Beam by adding a piece of wood to each side of its Beam that goes down about halfway through its thickness. These pieces are securely attached with nails to the sides of each Beam, allowing the legs of the Harrow to grip these pieces, which are on the inside of the Beams. When the Plow is lifted to be turned, the person turning it grips the[354] head of the Harrow with one hand and keeps the other on the Hopper, or Spindle, to keep it level and to avoid either of the front wheels from hitting the ground while the Plow is being turned.

Another Difference there is between the Shape of these hinder Funnels from that of the former, to wit, That each fore Side of the hinder Trunks must not be quite so oblique as the rest; because then the upper Edge of these fore Sides might be too near the Tenons of the Sheats, and there might not be sufficient Wood betwixt them, to prevent the Sheats from being torn out; a thing which has never happen’d, that I know of. We sometimes make these hinder Funnels of a roundish Shape, like a Cone inverted; except that the Part which is next the Sheat, is not so oblique as the rest, for the Reason already given.

Another difference between the shape of these back funnels and the previous ones is that each front side of the back trunks shouldn't be too slanted like the others. If they are, the upper edge of these front sides could be too close to the tenons of the sheaths, leaving insufficient wood between them to prevent the sheaths from being pulled out—a situation I’ve never seen happen, to my knowledge. Sometimes we make these back funnels with a rounded shape, like an inverted cone, except the part next to the sheath isn't as slanted as the rest, for the reason mentioned earlier.

The only Advantage proposed by this roundish Shape is, that there is less Wood taken out than from the square Corners, and therefore more Wood for the added Pieces to be fastened to the Beams, than, in the square Funnels.

The only advantage of this rounded shape is that less wood is removed compared to square corners, so there’s more wood available for attaching the additional pieces to the beams than there is in square funnels.

M and N are Two Pieces of Wood, each Eleven Inches long, Two Inches broad, and Two Inches thick: These are screw’d on near each End of the Plank, by Two Screws and Nuts each: They stand parallel to the other Beams, and have each a double Standard or Fork, O and P, in them, perpendicular to the Plank; by which Standards the fore Hopper is drawn and guided, in the manner as is seen in Fig. 21.

M and N are two pieces of wood, each eleven inches long, two inches wide, and two inches thick. They are screwed on near each end of the plank with two screws and nuts each. They stand parallel to the other beams and each has a double standard or fork, O and P, that is perpendicular to the plank. These standards help guide and pull the front hopper, like it's shown in Fig. 21.

These Standards ought to be braced (or spurr’d) before and behind, and on their Outsides; they never being press’d inwards, have no occasion of Braces there: These are to be so placed, that when the Spindle is in their Forks, it may be exactly over the Hole of the Funnel, so that the Seed may drop into the Middle of it, when the Plough stands upon an horizontal[355] Surface, the Spindle being also exactly parallel to the fore Edge of the Plank.

These standards should be supported (or secured) in the front and back, as well as on their outsides; since they’re not pressed inward, there’s no need for braces there. They should be positioned so that when the spindle is in their forks, it’s directly above the hole of the funnel, allowing the seed to fall into the center of it when the plow is on a level surface, and the spindle is also perfectly aligned with the front edge of the plank.[355]

Central standard
Rear standard

 

Brace

Fig. 10. is D in the Plough Fig. 1. It is Two Feet long, Two Inches broad in its narrowest Part, and half an Inch thick in the thinnest Part, and Two Inches at its Shoulders above the Plank. It is pinn’d thro’ the Plank before the Funnel, having one of its Legs on each Side the Tenon of the Sheat: It stands perpendicular to the Plank: Its only Use is to hold the fore Hopper from turning upon the Spindle, being put thro’ a thing (Fig. 22.) like the Carrier of a Latch, nail’d onto the upper Part of the fore Side of the fore Hopper, in which thing this Standard has room to play, or move side-ways, to the end that either Wheel may rise up.

Fig. 10. is D in the Plough Fig. 1. It is Two Feet long, Two Inches wide at its narrowest point, and half an Inch thick at its thinnest part, with Two Inches at its shoulders above the plank. It is pinned through the plank in front of the funnel, with one leg on each side of the tenon of the sheat. It stands straight up from the plank. Its only purpose is to keep the front hopper from rotating on the spindle, being put through a part (Fig. 22.) like the carrier of a latch, which is nailed onto the top part of the front side of the hopper, allowing this standard to move sideways so that either wheel can lift.

Fig. 11. is one of the hinder Standards, which being placed in the Beam, as G or H, perpendicular to it, is driven into a Mortise, and pinn’d into the Beam. It has a Shoulder behind, and another before, and a Third on its Outside; which Shoulders serve instead of Braces, to keep it from moving backwards, forwards, or outwards: It is Two Feet Four Inches long, Two Inches broad, and an Inch thick: It is placed with its broad or flat Sides towards the Sides of the Beams. It is made so thin, because it should have the more room for the Hopper to play on it; and therefore must have its Strength in its Breadth. The Part at a must stand foremost.

Fig. 11. is one of the key Standards, which is positioned in the Beam, like G or H, vertically to it, and is secured into a Mortise and fastened to the Beam. It has a Shoulder at the back, another at the front, and a third on its Outside; these Shoulders act like Braces, preventing it from shifting backward, forward, or outward: It measures Two Feet Four Inches in length, Two Inches in width, and One Inch in thickness: It is oriented with its wide or flat Sides facing the Sides of the Beams. It is made thin to allow more space for the Hopper to move on it; thus, its strength relies on its width. The part at a should be positioned at the front.

The Standards G and H are both alike, except as they are opposite: Their Use is to draw, guide, and hold up the hinder Hopper: They are to be placed perpendicular to the Beams, and at equal Distance from each Side of those Beams, and at such a Distance before the Funnels, that when the fore Side of the Hopper by its whole Length bears against the hinder Surface of the Standards, the Seed may drop into the Middle of both Funnels, the Plough standing upon an horizontal Surface.

The Standards G and H are similar, but also different: Their purpose is to draw, guide, and support the back Hopper. They should be positioned vertically to the Beams, equally spaced from each side of those Beams, and at a distance in front of the Funnels so that when the front side of the Hopper fully rests against the back surface of the Standards, the Seed can drop into the center of both Funnels, with the plow sitting on a level surface.

[356]

[356]

Be sure to take care, that the Sheats, Funnels, and Standards, be so placed, that the Spindle of the Hopper may be at right Angles with the Beams.

Be sure to take care that the sheaths, funnels, and standards are positioned so that the spindle of the hopper is at a right angle to the beams.

Q and R Part of the Limbers, which are also called Shafts, Sharps, and Thills; from whence the Horse that goes in them is call’d a Thiller. These Limbers are screw’d down to the Plank, by Two Screws and Nuts each. The Limbers are kept at their due Distance by the Bar S; near each End of which Bar, there is a Staple with a Crook underneath each Limber, to which is hitch’d, or fastened, a Link of each Trace, for drawing the Plough. This Bar is parallel to the Plank, and Seven Inches and an half before its fore Edge.

Q and R Part of the Limbers, which are also known as Shafts, Sharps, and Thills; hence, the Horse that pulls them is called a Thiller. These Limbers are secured to the Plank with two screws and nuts each. The Limbers are kept at the right distance by the Bar S; near each end of this Bar, there’s a Staple with a hook underneath each Limber, to which a link of each Trace is attached for pulling the Plough. This Bar runs parallel to the Plank and is seven and a half inches in front of its leading edge.

The Limbers must be mounted higher or lower at their fore Ends, according to the Height of the Horse that draws in them; and this may be done by the Screws that hold them to the Plank, and by cutting away the Wood at the Two hinder Screws, or at the Two foremost Screws, or by Wedges.

The Limbers need to be raised or lowered at their front ends based on the height of the horse pulling them. This can be adjusted using the screws that attach them to the plank, by cutting away wood at the two back screws or at the two front screws, or by using wedges.

Every Workman knows how to team the Limbers; that is, to place them so on the Plank, that the Path of the Horse, which goes in the Middle betwixt them, may be parallel to all the Shares, and so that a Line, drawn in the Middle of this Path, might fall into a strait Line with the fore Share, standing on the same even Surface with the Path; for otherwise the Plough will not follow directly after the Horse, but will incline to one Side.

Every worker knows how to position the limbers; that is, to set them on the plank so that the path of the horse, which runs in between them, is parallel to all the shares, and so that a line drawn down the middle of this path aligns straight with the front share, which should be level with the path. Otherwise, the plow will not follow directly behind the horse but will lean to one side.

The Use of the Trunks of this Plough is for makeing the Chanels narrow, of whatsoever Depth they are: But, without Trunks, the Chanels must be made wide by Ground-wrists, which spread the Sides of the Chanels wide asunder, to the end that they may lie open for receiving of the Seed; and the deeper they are, the wider they must be: By this Width of a Chanel, the Seed in it is with more Difficulty cover’d, and the Chanel fill’d with the largest Clods, and the[357] Seed comes up of a great Breadth, perhaps Three or Four Inches wide, so that the Weeds coming therein are hard to be gotten out.

The trunks of this plow are used to make the channels narrow, regardless of their depth. Without trunks, the channels have to be made wide with ground rods, which spread the sides of the channels apart to stay open for receiving the seed. The deeper the channels are, the wider they need to be. Because of this width, it’s harder to cover the seed, and the channels end up filled with large clods. The seed comes up in a wide band, maybe three or four inches across, making it difficult to remove the weeds that grow there.

To avoid these Inconveniences of wide Chanels, I contrived Trunks like those described, except that they were but Five or Six Inches high; and the Tops of their Plates, bending outwards from each other, form’d Two Sides of a Funnel; and the Wood between the Two Plates, being cut bevel at the Top, was as the fore Side of a Funnel to this Trunk: It was open behind from Top to Bottom: The Wheels were low, and the Seed-boxes narrow: The Seed in these Chanels was easily cover’d, especially those Sorts which were sown in dry Weather; for then the finest Mould would run in, and cover the Seed, as soon as the Trunks were past it.

To avoid the problems caused by wide channels, I designed trunks similar to those mentioned, but they were only five or six inches high. The tops of their plates curved outward from each other, forming two sides of a funnel. The wood between the two plates was cut at an angle at the top, serving as the front side of a funnel for this trunk. It was open at the back from top to bottom. The wheels were low, and the seed boxes were narrow. The seeds in these channels were easy to cover, especially the types sown in dry weather; the finest soil would flow in and cover the seeds as soon as the trunks passed over it.

The Seed in such a narrow Chanel comes up in a Line, where the Row not being above a Quarter of an Inch broad, scarce any Weeds come in it; and when the Weather is dry, the Earth of the Chanel not lying open to be dry’d, the Seed comes up the sooner.

The seed in such a narrow channel grows in a line, where the row is barely a quarter of an inch wide, so very few weeds can grow in it; and when the weather is dry, the soil in the channel isn’t exposed to dry out, which helps the seed germinate faster.

I had Two Reasons for making of these Trunks higher, as they are now used: The one was, to avoid the too great Length of the Shares; and my other Reason was, that with those low Trunks, and long Shares, there could not be Two Ranks of Shares, and their Hoppers in the Plough, which are necessary for making very narrow Partitions, and absolutely necessary for planting this treble Row of Wheat; for if Three Shares for making the Seven-inch Partitions were placed in one Rank, the Mould (which is always moist or wet, when we plant Wheat) would be driven before the Shares, there not being room for it to pass betwixt them.

I had two reasons for making these trunks higher than they are currently used. The first was to avoid the excessive length of the shares; my second reason was that with those low trunks and long shares, we couldn't have two ranks of shares and their hoppers in the plow, which are essential for creating very narrow partitions and absolutely necessary for planting this triple row of wheat. If three shares were used to create the seven-inch partitions and placed in one rank, the soil (which is always moist or wet when we plant wheat) would get pushed in front of the shares, as there wouldn't be enough space for it to pass between them.

Rear hopper parts

Fig. 12. is one End of the hinder Hopper laid open. I call it one End (altho’ it be an intire Box by itself) because this Hopper is supposed to have its middle Part cut out, to have a clearer Sight of the[358] Plough, and fore Hopper; as is seen in Fig. 15. which is the whole Hopper in Two Parts. In this Fig. 12, A is the Inside of one End of the Hopper, made with several Pieces of half-inch Elm-board nail’d on to the Post c a, on the fore Side; which Post is a little more than half an Inch square, and Seventeen Inches and Three quarters long, being the Depth of that Part of the Hopper which holds the Seed. B is the fore Side of this Hopper; which must be nail’d on to the said Pod, being of the same Length with it, and Four Inches broad, and half an Inch thick; and this is the Part which on its Outside goes against the right-hand Standard of the Plough, when it is at Work. The other Post b d, of the same Thickness with the former, is nail’d in within half an Inch of the opposite Edge of this End; to which Post also C being nail’d, makes the hinder Side of this Part of the Hopper. C is Four Inches broad, and half an Inch thick; and both it, and the Post to which it is to be nail’d, are something longer than its opposite Side, because the Side B makes right Angles with the Top and Bottom of the Hopper; but the hinder Side C makes oblique Angles with the Top and Bottom of the Hopper; and the Reason of this is, because when the Hopper is full of Seed, it may be equally pois’d on the Spindle; which it could not be without this Bevel, unless the Bottom of the Hopper did come as much behind the Spindle as before it; and that would hinder the Person that follows the Drill, from seeing the Seed fall out of the Seed-box into the Funnel; and that Part of the Bottom which is before the Spindle cannot be made shorter, because that Part of the Seed-box which is before the Spindle, is (upon account of its Tongue) much longer than the Part of it which is behind the Spindle. ’Tis true that when the Hopper is empty of Seed, it cannot be thus pois’d; but then, being so light, it does not require it. e f g h is a Piece of a Board, nail’d on to that Part of the End[359] A, which is below the Bottom of the Cavity which holds the Seed, and is commonly plac’d a little cross the Grain of the Board to which it is nail’d, and serves to strengthen it, and keeps the Hole i from splitting. The upper Edge e f of this added Piece of Board is exactly the Length of the Bottom of the Hopper, whereto the Brass Seed-box is fastened; and this Bottom, together with its Seed-box under it, being put into its Place, bears upon this Piece from e to f, which holds Up the right Side of the Bottom, and keeps it from sinking downwards; as the lower Ends of the Two mention’d Posts, and the fore and hinder Side B and C nail’d to them, prevent its rising upwards.

Fig. 12. is one end of the back hopper that is open. I refer to it as one end (even though it’s a complete box by itself) because this hopper is designed to have its middle section cut out for better visibility of the [358] plow and front hopper; this is shown in Fig. 15., which is the entire hopper in two parts. In this Fig. 12, A represents the inside of one end of the hopper, made from several pieces of half-inch elm board nailed to the post c a on the front side; this post is just over half an inch square and seventeen and three-quarters inches long, which is the depth of that part of the hopper that holds the seed. B is the front side of this hopper; it must be nailed to the mentioned post, being the same length as it, four inches wide, and half an inch thick; this part faces the right-hand standard of the plow while it is working. The other post b d, the same thickness as the first, is nailed within half an inch of the opposite edge of this end; to which post C is also nailed, forming the back side of this part of the hopper. C is four inches wide and half an inch thick; both it and the post to which it is nailed are slightly longer than its opposite side, because side B makes right angles with the top and bottom of the hopper; while the back side C makes slanted angles with the top and bottom of the hopper. The reason for this is that when the hopper is full of seed, it can be balanced equally on the spindle; it wouldn’t be balanced without this angle unless the bottom of the hopper was as far behind the spindle as it was in front of it; and that would obstruct the person following the drill from seeing the seed fall from the seed box into the funnel. The front part of the bottom that is before the spindle cannot be made shorter because that section of the seed box in front of the spindle is (due to its tongue) much longer than the part behind the spindle. It's true that when the hopper is empty of seed, it can't be balanced this way; but then, being so light, it doesn’t need to be. e f g h is a piece of board nailed to that part of end A, which is below the bottom of the cavity that holds the seed, and is typically placed slightly across the grain of the board it’s nailed to, serving to reinforce it and preventing the hole i from splitting. The upper edge e f of this added piece of board is exactly the length of the bottom of the hopper, to which the brass seed box is attached; and this bottom, along with its seed box beneath it, is positioned to support this piece from e to f, which lifts the right side of the bottom and prevents it from sinking down, while the lower ends of the two mentioned posts and the front and back sides B and C nailed to them stop it from rising upwards.

The Manner of making the Hole i is as follows: Place the Seed-box with its fore End at e, and hinder End at f, with the Base of its Cylinder (or great Hole) against this added Piece of Board, and its upper Edge exactly the Height of the Edge e f; then, with a Pair of Compasses put thro’ the Cylinder of the Seed-box, mark round the inner Edge of its Base upon the added Board; then take off the Seed-box, and find the Centre of the mark’d Circle; and then with a Tool call’d a Centre-bit, of the right Size, bore the Hole quite thro’ the double Board; and this Hole will be in the right Place, and of the same Diameter with the Spindle; but in case there is to be a Brass Wreath on that Part of the Spindle which is to turn in this Hole, then the Hole must be bor’d of the same Diameter with that Part of the Wreath which is to enter it; and that may be perhaps near a quarter of an Inch longer than the Diameter of the Spindle, upon which it is fastened.

The process for making the hole i is as follows: Position the seed box so that its front end is at e and the back end is at f, with the base of its cylinder (or large hole) against the extra piece of board, and its top edge exactly at the height of the edge e f. Then, using a compass inserted through the cylinder of the seed box, draw around the inner edge of its base on the added board. After removing the seed box, locate the center of the marked circle. Next, with a tool called a center bit, of the correct size, drill the hole completely through the double board. This hole will be in the correct position and have the same diameter as the spindle. However, if there is going to be a brass wreath on the part of the spindle that will rotate in this hole, then the hole should be drilled to match the diameter of the part of the wreath that will enter it, which may need to be about a quarter inch longer than the diameter of the spindle to which it is attached.

This End A, thus bor’d and shap’d, is a Pattern for its Opposite, and for the other Two Opposites of the other Cavity, which holds the Seed at the other End of the Hopper.

This End A, shaped and formed this way, serves as a model for its opposite and for the other two opposites of the other Cavity, which contains the Seed at the other end of the Hopper.

[360]

[360]

When the Opposite of A (with the Two Posts whereto the fore Side B, and the hinder Side C, are nail’d, and having a like Piece of Board in its lower Part with a like Hole in it) is added, and when the Bottom (Four Inches broad), with its Seed-box under it, is thrust in at f by the prick’d Lines, until it reach e, bearing on one Side upon the Piece of Board e f g h, and the other Edge of the Bottom bearing in like manner upon the opposite Piece, then this Cavity of the Hopper, which will contain about Two Gallons of Seeds, will be finish’d.

When you add the Opposite of A (which has Two Posts where the front Side B and the back Side C are nailed, and a similar Piece of Board at the bottom with a corresponding Hole in it), and when the Bottom (four inches wide), along with its Seed-box underneath, is pushed in at f along the dotted Lines until it reaches e, resting on one Side on the Piece of Board e f g h, while the other Edge of the Bottom rests similarly on the opposite Piece, the Hopper's cavity, which can hold about Two Gallons of Seeds, will be complete.

Note, The Bottom must make a right Angle with the Two fore Posts, having the Side B perpendicular to it.

Note: The bottom must form a right angle with the two front posts, with the side B being perpendicular to it.

D is a Part of the Board which comes out farther than the Hopper, in order to hold a Bar at k; which being fastened there, and in like manner to the Opposite of this Board, this Bar bearing against the fore Part of the Standard, the Hopper and its Wheels are in part drawn by it.

D is a part of the board that extends further than the hopper to hold a bar at k; once fastened there, and similarly to the opposite side of this board, this bar pushes against the front part of the standard, thereby partially pulling the hopper and its wheels.

Into the Notch l is fastened one End of a long Bar, which passes the whole Length of the Hopper, and holds the upper Part of its Two Cavities in their Places, as is seen mark’d D, in Fig. 15.

Into the Notch l is fastened one end of a long bar, which extends the entire length of the hopper and keeps the upper part of its two cavities in place, as shown marked D, in Fig. 15.

E is Part of the Board which comes before the Hopper, and whereto one End of a Piece of Wood is fastened by Nails or Screws, which bearing against the fore Part of the Standard, and against its Inside, the Hopper is in part drawn and guided by it, as shall be shewn in Fig. 15.

E is part of the board that comes before the hopper, where one end of a piece of wood is attached with nails or screws. This piece supports the front part of the standard and helps guide the hopper as described in Fig. 15.

Seed hopper

Fig. 13. shews the Outside of the Figure last describ’d. A is the Standard by which this End of the Hopper is drawn, in the manner as it is here placed. B is one End of the Spindle passing thro’ the Hopper and Seed-box. C the Bottom, having the Seed-box fastened on to it, with one Screw before, and another behind, with their Nuts underneath, and the Heads of their Screws very thin, and the Pins square at[361] Top, that they may not turn in the Wood; and their Heads must either be let into the Wood, even with the Surface, or else the Sides B C of the Hopper must be cut for these Heads of the Screws to pass in under them.

Fig. 13. shows the outside of the figure just described. A is the standard by which this end of the hopper is drawn, as it's laid out here. B is one end of the spindle that goes through the hopper and seed box. C is the bottom, which has the seed box attached to it with one screw in the front and another in the back, with their nuts underneath. The heads of the screws are very thin, and the pins are square at the top so they won’t turn in the wood. The heads must either be sunk into the wood even with the surface, or the sides B C of the hopper must be cut out so these screw heads can pass underneath them.

Hopper bottom board

This bottom Board, which holds the brass Seed-box, is Four Inches broad, and full half an Inch thick, and at each End a quarter of an Inch longer than the Seed-box: This Piece is first thrust in sliding upon the Two added Pieces of Board, until its fore End comes under the fore Side of the Hopper, and its hinder End under the hinder Side; then setting the Hopper with its Bottom upwards, the Spindle being thro’ the Seed-box, and Holes of the Hopper, we hold the Seed-box hard upon the Bottom, at equal Distance from each End of it, whilst the Holes are bored thro’ the Bottom, by the Holes at each End of the Seed-box; and then the Screws, being put thro’, screw on the Box; and when that is done, we make a Mark upon the bottom Board, with the Compasses, on each Side of the Brass Box, beginning from the Ends of the Axis of the Tongue, reaching as far backwards as is the Length of the Mortise: These Two Lines or Marks are a Direction for cutting the Hole in the Bottom of the Hopper, thro’ which the Seed descends into the Seed-box; then we pull out the Spindle, then draw out the Bottom, take off the Seed-box, and cut the Hole in the Bottom in the manner I will now describe in Fig. 14. where the Two pricked Lines a b and c d are the lower Edges of the Hole, and the same with the Two Lines mentioned to be marked by the Sides of the Seed-box. The pricked Line a d, being at right Angles with the Two former, is the lower Edge of the fore End of the Hole, and exactly over the Axis of the Tongue, and parallel to it. The pricked Line b c is the lower Edge of the hinder End of the Hole, which is just over the hinder End of the Mortise, and parallel and equal[362] to the last-mentioned pricked Line: These Four pricked Lines are the lower Edges of this Hole, contiguous to the Seed-box. The Two Lines e f and g h are the upper Edges of the Sides of the Hole, which, being farther asunder than the lower Edges, make the reverse Bevel of this Hole; which may be determined by this, that the Surface between these Two upper and lower Edges, being Planes, are inclined to one another downwards, in an Angle of about One hundred and Thirty Degrees. The Two Lines e g and f h, at right Angles with the Two last-mentioned Lines, make the upper Edges of the Ends of this Hole; and, being nearer together, than the pricked Lines under them, the plane Surfaces, betwixt these Two Lines and those Two pricked Lines, shew the Bevel of the Ends of these, which are inclined to each other upwards in an Angle of about Sixty-five Degrees.

This bottom board, which holds the brass seed box, is four inches wide and half an inch thick, with each end being a quarter inch longer than the seed box. This piece is first slid onto the two added pieces of board until its front end is under the front side of the hopper and its back end is under the back side. Then, with the hopper set upside down and the spindle passing through the seed box and the holes of the hopper, we hold the seed box tightly against the bottom, making sure it's equidistant from each end while the holes are drilled through the bottom by using the holes at each end of the seed box. Once the screws are inserted, they attach the box. After that, we mark the bottom board with compasses on each side of the brass box, starting from the ends of the tongue's axis and extending back to the length of the mortise. These two lines or marks guide us in cutting the hole in the bottom of the hopper through which the seeds fall into the seed box. Then we remove the spindle, take out the bottom, and detach the seed box to cut the hole in the bottom as I will now describe in Fig. 14., where the two marked lines a b and c d are the lower edges of the hole, corresponding with the lines marked by the sides of the seed box. The marked line a d, which is at right angles to the previous two, is the lower edge of the front end of the hole, positioned directly over the axis of the tongue and running parallel to it. The marked line b c is the lower edge of the back end of the hole, which is directly above the back end of the mortise and is also parallel and equal to the last-mentioned marked line. These four marked lines represent the lower edges of this hole, which adjoins the seed box. The two lines e f and g h are the upper edges of the sides of the hole; being farther apart than the lower edges, they create the reverse bevel of this hole. It can be determined by the fact that the surface between these two upper and lower edges, being flat planes, is inclined downwards towards one another at an angle of about one hundred and thirty degrees. The two lines e g and f h, which are at right angles to the last two mentioned lines, create the upper edges of the ends of this hole and are closer together than the marked lines below them, showing the bevel of these ends, which are inclined upwards towards each other at an angle of about sixty-five degrees.

This double Bevel effectually prevents the Seed from arching in the Hole, before it gets into the Mortise of the Seed-box; and also, the Two upper Edges of the Ends of the Hole being nearer together than the lower, there is the more Wood left between these Edges and the Screws, which hold the Box to the Bottom, whereby the Board is less apt to split.

This double bevel effectively stops the seed from arching in the hole before it reaches the mortise of the seed box. Also, since the two upper edges of the ends of the hole are closer together than the lower ones, there’s more wood left between these edges and the screws that hold the box to the bottom, which makes the board less likely to split.

Then the Box being screwed on to the Bottom, and thrust again into its Place, the Spindle, passing thro’ both the Hopper and the Box, keeps the Bottom in its Place: Then D, in Fig. 13. is the imaginary Plane of the Top or Mouth of the Hopper, being a rectangled Parallelogram, and parallel to the Bottom, to which the fore End is perpendicular, and a rectangled Parallelogram of the same Breadth.

Then the box is screwed onto the bottom and pushed back into its position, with the spindle going through both the hopper and the box, holding the bottom in place. Then D, in Fig. 13., represents the imaginary plane of the top or mouth of the hopper, which is a rectangular parallelogram and parallel to the bottom, to which the front end is perpendicular, and is also a rectangular parallelogram of the same width.

Rear double hopper

Fig. 15. shews the fore Side of the whole hinder Hopper, with its Two Cavities, and all its Accoutrements, except the Wheels; the Two Ends A and B being exactly alike, having each of them its Seed-box at the Bottom, in the same manner as in the one has been described. The Bar D holds together the upper[363] Parts of this double Hopper at a right Distance, which is, when there is Ten Inches clear room betwixt the Two single ones. The Spindle E, passing thro’ the Whole, holds the Two single Hoppers by Four Wreaths, at the same Distance below, as they are held by the Bar above.

Fig. 15. shows the front side of the entire back hopper, featuring its two compartments and all its accessories, except for the wheels. The two ends, A and B, are identical, each having a seed box at the bottom, just like the one that's been described. The bar D keeps the upper parts of this double hopper at the right distance apart, which is ten inches of clear space between the two individual hoppers. The spindle E, passing through the whole structure, secures the two single hoppers with four wraps, at the same distance below as they are held by the bar above.

These Four Wreaths are screwed on to the Spindle, to keep it from moving towards either End, as well as to hold the Hoppers in their Places: Two of which Wreaths are seen at a and b; and the other Two are placed on the Outsides, as these Two are on the Insides. Before we proceed any farther in this Figure, it will be proper to shew the Wreaths, which are of Two Sorts.

These four wreaths are screwed onto the spindle to keep it from moving toward either end and to hold the hoppers in place. Two of these wreaths are located at a and b; the other two are positioned on the outside, just like these two are on the inside. Before we go any further with this figure, it's important to show the wreaths, which come in two types.

The one in Fig. 16. where A is its Hollow, which is circular, and must be of the same Diameter with the Spindle; and, being thrust on upon the Spindle, till it touch the Board, is fastened to the Spindle by a small Screw thro’ each of its opposite Holes, a b shews the Breadth of this Wreath, whether it be made of Brass or Wood: It is little more than half an Inch. b c d is the Part of it that goes against the Board: The Thickness of the Surface of this End which goes against the Board, is a quarter of an Inch, if made with Brass; but if with Wood, half an Inch; but the Thickness of its other End a e f is less than its End b c d, by which means the Screws are the more easily turned in.

The one in Fig. 16. where A is its Hollow, which is circular, must have the same diameter as the Spindle. When it's pressed onto the Spindle until it touches the Board, it's secured to the Spindle by a small screw through each of its opposite holes. a b shows the width of this ring, whether it's made of brass or wood: it is just over half an inch. b c d is the part that rests against the Board. The thickness of the surface of this end that touches the Board is a quarter of an inch if made of brass, but half an inch if made of wood. However, the thickness of its other end a e f is less than its end b c d, which allows the screws to be more easily turned in.

Wreath
Other wreath

 

Fig. 17. shews the other Sort of Wreath, which is always made in Brass: Its Cavity is a hollow Cylinder like the former: When it is on the Spindle, its End a b c is thrust into the Hole of the Board (made wider for the Purpose) until d e f come close to the Board, and stop it from entering any farther; then we screw it on to the Spindle by the Holes, as the other Sort of Wreath is described to be screwed.

Fig. 17. shows the other type of wreath, which is always made of brass. Its cavity is a hollow cylinder like the previous one. When it’s on the spindle, its end a b c is pushed into the hole in the board (made wider for this purpose) until d e f gets close to the board, preventing it from going in any further; then we screw it onto the spindle through the holes, just like the other type of wreath is described to be screwed.

This is the best Sort of Wreath; because it keeps the Spindle from wearing against the Edges of the[364] Hole, and then the Spindle never has any Friction against the Wood in any Part of it; but the other Sort are more easily made (especially of Wood), and the Spindle will last a great while in them; or if it be worn out, the Expence of Three-pence or Four-pence will purchase a new Spindle.

This is the best type of wreath because it prevents the spindle from rubbing against the edges of the [364] hole, which means the spindle has no friction against the wood at any point. The other types are easier to make (especially out of wood), and the spindle will last quite a while in them. If it does wear out, it only costs about three or four pence to buy a new spindle.

Now I must return to Fig. 15. where the Spindle E having its Four Wreaths fixt on it, we turn it round with our Hand, to see whether the Wreaths are put on true; and when they are so, neither the Spindle, nor the Hoppers, can move end-ways: Tho’ the Spindle be pretty hard to turn round, the Wheels will soon cause it to turn easily. Whilst the Spindle is in this Posture, we turn the Hopper Bottom upwards, and mark the Spindle for cutting the Notches in the manner before directed; and then we take off the Spindle, and cut the Notches, and also cut each End of the Spindle square, up to a Shoulder at each End, so that the Wheels may come easily on without knocking or thrusting; and then we return the Spindle to its Place, and put on the Wheels, pinning them on with each a long Nail, which being crooked at the Ends, prevent it from falling out, but may be very easily pulled out with the Claws of a Hammer; but we must take care, that neither the square Ends of the Spindle, nor the square Holes in the Naves (or Hubs) of the Wheels (into which they enter), be taper; for, if they are taper, the Wheels will be apt to work themselves off.

Now I have to go back to Fig. 15. where the Spindle, with its Four Wreaths fixed on it, is turned around by hand to check if the Wreaths are placed correctly. When they are, neither the Spindle nor the Hoppers can move sideways. Even though the Spindle is a bit tough to rotate, the Wheels will soon make it turn easily. While the Spindle is in this position, we turn the Hopper bottom side up and mark the Spindle for cutting the Notches as previously instructed. Then we remove the Spindle and cut the Notches, and also square off each end of the Spindle up to a shoulder at both ends, so that the Wheels can easily fit on without banging or pushing. After that, we put the Spindle back in place and attach the Wheels, securing them with long Nails that are bent at the ends to keep them from falling out, but which can be easily removed with a Hammer's claws. However, we must ensure that neither the squared ends of the Spindle nor the square holes in the Naves (or Hubs) of the Wheels (where they fit) are tapered; if they are, the Wheels could easily come off.

Wooden connector

The Piece of Wood, Fig. 18. is that which goes over the Standard, and, being placed in the Hopper, as F. in Fig. 15. draws that Part of the Hopper by its Inside a b bearing against the fore Part of the Standard; and that Part of it from b to c, being the Breadth of the Standard, bears against its inner Inside, to prevent the Hopper from going any farther towards that End. This Piece of Wood is fastened to the Boards of the Hopper, either by Screws or Nails:[365] This Piece, from d to e, must be of such a Thickness, that the Standard, bearing against its Inside b c, may be equidistant from each Board, to which this Piece is fastened. The Part, or fore Side of this Piece f g, must be the Length of the Distance between Board and Board, to which it is fastened; and that is exactly Four Inches. Its Thickness and Depth must be such as may make it strong enough for the Purposes intended.

The Piece of Wood, Fig. 18., is the one that goes over the Standard and, when placed in the Hopper, as F in Fig. 15., pulls that part of the Hopper inward, with a b pressing against the front part of the Standard. The section from b to c, which is the Width of the Standard, presses against its inner side to stop the Hopper from moving further in that direction. This Piece of Wood is attached to the Boards of the Hopper, either by Screws or Nails:[365] This section, from d to e, needs to be thick enough so that the Standard, pressing against its inner side b c, is equidistant from each Board it's attached to. The front side of this Piece f g must be the Length of the Distance between each Board it's fastened to, which is exactly Four Inches. Its Thickness and Depth must be sufficient to ensure it’s strong enough for its intended use.

Opposite wooden connector

The Piece marked Fig. 19. is the Opposite of the former, and to be placed in the same manner, and as it is seen marked G in Fig. 15. observing always, that the Part of it, which holds the Hopper from moving end-ways, must always be on the Inside of the Standard; for, if these Pieces should bear against the Outsides of the Standards, the Hopper could have no Play upon them, nor could either of the Wheels rise up without raising the Share (that was next to it) out of the Ground; but, being thus placed, either Wheel may rise without the other, and without raising the Share.

The piece marked Fig. 19. is the opposite of the previous one and should be positioned in the same way. This is indicated as G in Fig. 15.. Always make sure that the part that keeps the hopper from moving side to side is on the inside of the standard. If these pieces press against the outside of the standards, the hopper wouldn’t have any movement, and neither wheel could lift without also raising the share next to it out of the ground. However, when positioned like this, either wheel can lift independently without affecting the share.

I say more of this, because it is a Point wherein young Workmen are apt to mistake.

I mention this more because it's a point where young workers tend to get confused.

Spacer

Thus having shewn, in Fig. 15. how the Hopper is guided and drawn at the lower Part, I come next to shew how it is held and drawn at its upper Part; for which the Piece of Wood, Fig. 20. being a competent Breadth and Thickness, Four Inches long, is fixt in between the Boards with Nails or Screws; and is H in Fig. 15. The Standard passing up betwixt this and the fore Side of the Hopper, its fore Surface bearing against this Bar, and its hinder Surface against the Hopper; so that the Hopper may rise and sink easily upon the Standard at Top, being in the Middle on the fore Side of the Hopper; there will be an equal Distance of each Side, for either Wheel to rise, without the Standard striking against the Sides of the Hopper to hinder its rising. There is another Bar[366] equal to this, and has the same Office, at the other End of the Hopper, marked I. Likewise the Bar D is of the same Use with these mentioned short Bars, and they help to strengthen one another.

Thus, having shown in Fig. 15. how the Hopper is guided and drawn at the bottom, I will now explain how it is held and drawn at the top. For this, a piece of wood, Fig. 20., that is wide and thick enough, four inches long, is fixed between the boards with nails or screws; and it is H in Fig. 15.. The standard goes up between this and the front side of the Hopper, with its front surface pressing against this bar and its back surface against the Hopper. This allows the Hopper to rise and fall easily on the standard at the top, being positioned centrally on the front side of the Hopper; there will be equal space on each side for either wheel to rise without the standard hitting the sides of the Hopper and preventing it from rising. There is another bar[366] equal to this, serving the same purpose, at the other end of the Hopper, marked I. Similarly, the bar D serves the same function as these shorter bars and helps to reinforce each other.

When the Wheels are put on till they reach near to the Wreaths, they will stand with their Rings, or Circles, Two Feet Three Inches asunder.

When the wheels are added until they are close to the wreaths, they will be positioned with their rings or circles two feet three inches apart.

Complete drill

We set them as near together as conveniently we can; because when they are too wide, they are apt to draw the Plough towards one Side of the Ridge; and sometimes, when the Ridge is high, the Hopper might bear upon the Funnels; and then the Wheels, being carried above the Ground, would not turn to bring out the Seed: And that these Wheels may come the nearer together, their Spokes are set almost perpendicular; so that the Wheels are not concave, as other Wheels are. This Hopper is shewn, put on upon its Standards, in its Place, in Fig. 21. where the mentioned Bar D, which holds the Hopper together at Top, is seen, as also the Four Wreaths, and likewise the hinder End of the Seed-boxes standing over the Funnels, with their Trunks underneath them. Here also the back Part of the fore Hopper is seen, with its Seed-box standing over the fore Funnel: Its Mouth also is seen at A; as also the Top of its fore Side held up by the thing (Fig. 22.) like the Carrier of a Latch, with the Nails in it, which fasten it to the Top of the fore Side of the Hopper, and give room for either of its Wheels to rise.

We position them as close together as we can; because if they are too far apart, they tend to pull the plow to one side of the ridge. Sometimes, if the ridge is high, the hopper might rest on the funnels, causing the wheels to be lifted off the ground, which would prevent them from turning and dispensing the seed. To bring the wheels closer together, their spokes are set almost vertically, so the wheels aren't concave like other wheels. This hopper is shown placed on its supports in Fig. 21. where the mentioned bar D, which holds the hopper together at the top, is visible, along with the four wreaths and the back end of the seed boxes above the funnels, with their trunks underneath. You can also see the back part of the front hopper, with its seed box positioned over the front funnel. Its opening is visible at A, as well as the top of its front side supported by something (Fig. 22.) like a latch carrier, with nails that secure it to the top of the front side of the hopper, allowing space for either of its wheels to move upward.

This fore Hopper may easily be described by the Figure of a Box, like the other already described, at its Ends, which are of the same Shape with the Inside of the Box, Fig. 12. but much lower, being Seven Inches and an half deep, and Sixteen Inches long; and the Breadth of its Bottom is determined by the Length of the Seed-box, and a little wider at Top, on account of the Bevel which poises it: It carries no more Seed than one End of the hinder Hopper;[367] but it is capable of holding more; but we do not fill it quite, lest some of the Seed should fly over in jolting, its Mouth being so much longer than the other.

This front hopper can easily be described as a box, similar to the one previously mentioned, at its ends, which have the same shape as the inside of the box, Fig. 12. but are much shorter, being seven and a half inches deep and sixteen inches long. The width of its bottom is based on the length of the seed box and is slightly wider at the top due to the bevel that stabilizes it. It carries as much seed as one end of the back hopper; [367] however, it can hold more, but we don’t fill it completely to prevent some seed from spilling out during jolting, as its opening is much longer than the other.

Hopper board

This Hopper is kept in its Place, from moving end-ways upon the Spindle, by a Wreath fixed to the Spindle at each End of the Box, in the same manner as has been described for holding the other Hopper. The Wreaths most proper for this Purpose are the Sort described in Fig. 17. but the other Sort described in Fig. 16. and even made with Wood, will suffice; but then we must take care to make the Hole at the End of the Hopper of a considerable Thickness, that it may not wear the Spindle, which, by reason of its great Length, is the more liable to bend, and be cut by the Edges of the Holes; which Cutting cannot be prevented but by the Thickness of the Holes, or by such Wreaths as that of Fig. 17.

This hopper is kept in place from moving side to side on the spindle by a wreath attached to the spindle at each end of the box, similar to how it was described for securing the other hopper. The most suitable wreaths for this purpose are the ones described in Fig. 17., but the other type mentioned in Fig. 16., even if made of wood, will work as well. However, we need to ensure that the hole at the end of the hopper is thick enough so that it doesn't wear down the spindle, which is more prone to bending and getting cut by the edges of the holes due to its length. This wear can only be prevented by the thickness of the holes or by using wreaths like the one in Fig. 17..

We sometimes make this Hopper exactly like a common Box, without any Part of its Ends descending below the Bottom; and, in that Case, we place a narrower Piece of Board at each End of the Hopper, like that of Fig. 23. in which Figure, the Hole A being put on upon the Spindle, the Piece of Board is fastened on by a Screw and Nut thro’ the Hole B, near the Top of the End of the Hopper, and by another Screw and Nut thro’ the Hole C, near the Bottom of the Hopper. Another such a Piece of Board, fixed on in the same manner to the opposite End of the Hopper, holds this long Hopper parallel to its Spindle, that passes thro’ the Holes of these Two Pieces, and thro’ the Brass Seed-box, which is fixed up to the Bottom, in the Middle betwixt them.

We sometimes make this Hopper just like a regular Box, without any part of its Ends hanging below the Bottom; and in that case, we place a narrower Piece of Board at each End of the Hopper, like that of Fig. 23. in which Figure, the Hole A being put on the Spindle, the Piece of Board is secured with a Screw and Nut through the Hole B, near the Top of the End of the Hopper, and with another Screw and Nut through the Hole C, near the Bottom of the Hopper. Another similar Piece of Board, attached in the same way to the opposite End of the Hopper, keeps this long Hopper parallel to its Spindle, which goes through the Holes of these Two Pieces and through the Brass Seed-box, which is attached to the Bottom, in the Middle between them.

Hopper bottom

There are Two Methods for letting the Seed pass from a long Hopper into the Seed-box. The first is that of cutting the Hole through its Bottom, in the manner that has been shewn in Fig. 14. The other is that which cannot be used in a Hopper so short as[368] the Boxes of our hinder Hoppers are; but in the fore Hopper, or any other long Hopper, we can place the Brass Seed-box to a Bottom made for the Purpose, like that in Fig. 24. where there is a Piece of Board on the fore Part of the Hopper from End to End, as a b, and another on the hinder Part of the Hopper, as c d. Then the fore Part of the Brass Seed-box, being placed under the Piece a b, is screwed up to it at e, and the hinder Part of the Seed-box under c d screwed up to it at f; then the Bottom of the Hopper, being open in the Middle, is shut by very thin Boards, g and h, fixed up to the mentioned Pieces: These Boards having their upper Surface even with the upper Edges of the Brass Box, the Seed can no way arch in coming into the Mortise of the Seed-box. Whichever of these Two Methods be made use of, in a long Hopper, the Bottom must be fixed to the Two Sides, by small Bars of Wood of about Three quarters of an Inch square, to which the Bottom and Sides are fastened by Nails, in the manner that the Ends and Sides of the hinder Hoppers are fastened to their Posts, which stand in their Corners.

There are two ways to let the seed flow from a long hopper into the seed box. The first method involves cutting a hole in the bottom, as shown in Fig. 14.. The second method isn't suitable for a hopper as short as the boxes of our back hoppers; however, for the front hopper or any other long hopper, we can position the brass seed box onto a specially made bottom, similar to what is illustrated in Fig. 24., where there's a board running across the front of the hopper from end to end, marked as a b, and another on the back as c d. Then, the front part of the brass seed box, placed under board a b, is secured to it at e, and the back part of the seed box sits under c d, secured at f. The bottom of the hopper, which is open in the middle, is closed off with very thin boards, g and h, attached to the mentioned boards. These boards are flush with the top edges of the brass box, ensuring that the seed cannot arch as it enters the seed box’s mortise. Regardless of which of the two methods is used in a long hopper, the bottom must be secured to the two sides with small wooden bars about three-quarters of an inch square, to which the bottom and sides are fastened with nails, just like how the ends and sides of the back hoppers are attached to their corner posts.

We take the same Method for cutting the Notches in this Spindle, as has been described for cutting the Notches in the other Spindle.

We use the same method for cutting the notches in this spindle as described for cutting the notches in the other spindle.

But observe, That the great Length of this Spindle requires it to be the larger; and we make it of an Inch and Three quarters Diameter, the other being only an Inch and an half: We therefore bore the great Hole or Cylinder of its Brass Seed-box a quarter of an Inch in Diameter larger than of the Brass Seed-boxes of the hinder Hoppers; and we commonly make a Notch more in the Circumference of this Spindle, because the Semidiameters of its Wheels must be as much greater than of the hinder Wheels, as is the Thickness of the Plank, and the Ends of the Limbers which are betwixt this Spindle and the upper Surface of the Two Beams.

But note that the long length of this spindle requires it to be larger, so we make it with a diameter of one and three-quarters inches, while the other is only one and a half inches. Therefore, we drill the main hole or cylinder of its brass seed box a quarter of an inch larger in diameter than the brass seed boxes of the back hoppers. We also usually create one more notch in the circumference of this spindle because the radii of its wheels must be proportionally larger than those of the back wheels, equal to the thickness of the plank and the ends of the arms between this spindle and the upper surface of the two beams.

[369]

[369]

We make all our Spindles of clear-quarter’d Ash, without Knots or Crooks; and when they are well dry’d, and made perfectly round, and of equal Diameter from one End to the other, by the Prong-maker, we pay a Peny per Foot for them at the first Hand, and they will now-and-then have something more for the largest Size; but we are only curious to have the middle Part of this long Spindle exact; for we graft on a Piece at each End, which does not require any Exactness: The Graftings are seen at a a at one End, and b b at the other End of the Spindle (in this Fig. 21.) by Four flattish Iron Rings driven on upon the grafted Parts, as they appear under those Letters in the Middle. Between each Pair of these Rings, we drive a small Iron Pin thro’ the Joints at c and at d, to keep the Grafts from separating end-ways; and if they are not tight enough, we make them so, by Wedges driven in betwixt them and the Spindle.

We make all our spindles from clear quartered ash, without knots or bends. Once they are well dried, perfectly round, and equally thick from one end to the other by the prong maker, we pay a penny per foot for them initially, and sometimes a bit more for the largest sizes. However, we mainly care about having the middle part of this long spindle exact since we add a piece at each end, which doesn't need to be precise. The grafts are marked as a a at one end and b b at the other end of the spindle (in this Fig. 21.) by four flat iron rings placed on the grafted parts, as shown under those letters in the middle. Between each pair of these rings, we drive a small iron pin through the joints at c and d to keep the grafts from separating lengthwise; and if they aren't tight enough, we make them so by driving wedges between them and the spindle.

This fore Hopper is drawn by the Spindle, and the Spindle is drawn by the Two double Standards B and C, betwixt whose Forks it is placed, as appears in this Figure; the Distance between each Fork, or double Standard, being exactly the Diameter of the Spindle, so that the Spindle may have just room to rise and sink there, and no more.

This fore Hopper is pulled by the Spindle, and the Spindle is pulled by the two double Standards B and C, between which it is positioned, as shown in this figure. The distance between each Fork or double Standard is exactly the diameter of the Spindle, allowing just enough space for the Spindle to rise and fall without any extra room.

The Hopper and Spindle are guided, or kept in their Place, from moving end-ways, by Two Wreaths screw’d on to the Spindle, the one at e, and the other at f; each of which Wreaths, bearing against the Surfaces of both the Legs of each double Standard, on the Sides next to the Hopper, prevent the Spindle and Hopper from moving towards either End; and yet admit the Wheels, or either of them, to rise and sink without raising either Side of the Plough, contrary to what would happen, if the Wreaths were placed on the Outsides of the Standards next to the Wheels.

The Hopper and Spindle are held in place and prevented from moving sideways by two wreaths screwed onto the Spindle, one at e and the other at f. Each wreath presses against the surfaces of both legs of each double standard on the sides next to the Hopper, stopping the Spindle and Hopper from shifting toward either end. At the same time, they allow the wheels, or either one of them, to rise and fall without lifting either side of the plow, which wouldn’t happen if the wreaths were positioned on the outside of the standards next to the wheels.

[370]

[370]

We make these Wreaths a little different from the other Sort of Wreaths, which turn against the Holes; we make them of a greater Diameter, lest they should at any time get in betwixt the Legs of the double Standards, in case the Standards should be loose, or bend: Therefore we make the Diameter of each of these Wreaths, at least, Two Inches and Three quarters: We always make them of Wood, and of a peculiar Shape, taking off their Edges next the Standards, which Edges would be an Impediment to the Rising of one End of the Spindle without the other. So that, for making these Wreaths, we may form a Piece of Wood of the Shape of a Skittle-bowl (or an oblate Spheroid) having an Inch and Three-quarter Hole bor’d thro’ its Middle, and then cut by its Diameter (which is about Three Inches) in Two Halves, each of which will be one of these Wreaths; and they must be placed on the Spindle, with their convex Sides bearing against their respective Standards.

We make these Wreaths a little different from the other types of Wreaths, which turn against the Holes; we make them larger in diameter to prevent them from getting caught between the legs of the double Standards, in case the Standards become loose or bend. Therefore, we make the diameter of each of these Wreaths at least two inches and three-quarters. We always make them from wood and give them a specific shape, smoothing the edges next to the Standards, as those edges would hinder the movement of one end of the spindle without the other. So, to create these Wreaths, we shape a piece of wood like a skittle-bowl (or an oblate spheroid), with a hole of one inch and three-quarters drilled through the center, then cut through its diameter (which is about three inches) into two halves, each serving as one of these Wreaths. They must be placed on the spindle with their convex sides facing their respective Standards.

The Diameter of the fore Wheels is about Thirty Inches, as the Diameter of the hinder Wheels is about Twenty-two.

The diameter of the front wheels is about thirty inches, while the diameter of the rear wheels is about twenty-two inches.

The fore Spindle should be of such a Length, that its square Ends, E and F, may come out Three or Four Inches farther than the Hubs (or Stocks) of the Wheels; so that there may be room to shift the Wheels towards either End, for making several Sets of Notches, for the Use of the Seed-box.

The front spindle should be long enough so that its flat ends, E and F, extend three or four inches beyond the hubs (or stocks) of the wheels. This allows space to adjust the wheels toward either end for creating different sets of notches for the seed box.

Observe, Tho’ the fore Hopper is drawn by its Spindle, yet the hinder Spindle is drawn by its Hopper.

Observe, though the front hopper is pulled by its spindle, the back spindle is pulled by its hopper.

The Reason of this great Distance between the Two fore Wheels is not so much for their serving as Marking Wheels to this particular Drill; which being drawn only upon a Ridge, its Top is a sufficient Direction for leading the Horse to keep the Rows parallel to one another, if the Ridges are so; but if the Wheels were much nearer together than they are, and[371] yet more than Six Feet asunder, the Wheels going on the Sides of the next Ridges would be apt to turn the Drill out of the Horse-path towards one Side, not permitting the Drill to follow directly after the Horse; and if the Wheels should stand at Six or Seven Feet Distance from one another, then they must go in the Furrows which are on each Side of the Six-feet Ridge: This would occasion their Hopper to bear upon the Plank, which would carry the Wheels above the Ground, and no Seed would be turned out of the Hopper, unless the Wheels were of an extraordinary Height[268]; and the Height requir’d for them would be very uncertain, some Furrows being much deeper than others; but the Tops of contiguous Ridges are generally of an equal Height, whether the Furrows betwixt them be deep or shallow; for we seldom make Ridges of an unequal Height in the same Field: Therefore there can be no need to change the Height of our Wheels, that are to go upon the Middle of the Ridges; but if they went in the Furrows they must be of a different Height[372] when used for drilling of high Ridges, from what would be required when used for drilling low Ridges.

The reason for the significant distance between the two front wheels is not just for them to serve as marking wheels for this specific drill; since it’s only drawn along a ridge, the top serves as a clear guide for directing the horse to keep the rows parallel, as long as the ridges are. However, if the wheels were much closer together than they are, but still more than six feet apart, the wheels traveling along the sides of the next ridges could cause the drill to veer away from the horse path towards one side, preventing the drill from following directly behind the horse. If the wheels were six or seven feet apart, they would need to move in the furrows on each side of the six-foot ridge. This would cause the hopper to rest on the plank, raising the wheels off the ground, meaning no seed would be released from the hopper unless the wheels were exceptionally tall, and the height needed for them would be very unpredictable since some furrows are much deeper than others. However, the tops of adjacent ridges are generally even in height, regardless of whether the furrows between them are deep or shallow; we rarely create ridges of differing heights in the same field. Thus, there’s no need to adjust the height of our wheels, which are meant to ride on the tops of the ridges; but if they were to operate in the furrows, they would need to be at a different height when used for drilling taller ridges compared to what would be needed for drilling shorter ones.

[268]Notwithstanding the Reasons given, and that I have never used Wheels of such an Height as might be necessary for going in the Furrows, yet it may not be amiss to try such; because with them the Spindle needeth not to be more than half the Length of one that is carried by low Wheels: And high Wheels will allow the Funnel to be much larger, so that altho’ the Spindle go higher from it, no Seed will drop beside a large Funnel; but there is not room for a large one under low Wheels.

[268]Despite the reasons given, and the fact that I've never used wheels of such a height that would be necessary for navigating furrows, it might still be worth trying them out. With those wheels, the spindle doesn't need to be more than half the length of one used with low wheels. Additionally, high wheels allow for a much larger funnel, so even though the spindle is positioned higher, no seed will fall beside a large funnel; there's simply not enough space for a large one under low wheels.

I did not think it necessary to describe the Manner of making Drill-wheels any otherways than by shewing them in the Plates; but I will observe here, that they are to be made very light: One of mine, that is 30 Inches high, weighs Five Pounds and an half; it has a Circle or Ring of Iron, whose Depth is half an Inch, and its Thickness a quarter of an Inch; also very thin Iron Stock-bands to hold the Nave or Stock from splitting. The Circle is held on the Spokes by small flat Iron Pins on each Side; and each Spoke has a Ring of Iron to secure its End from being split by driving in of the Pins. We also make the Drill-wheels less concave than other Wheels are.

I didn't think it was necessary to explain how to make drill-wheels any other way than by showing them in the Plates; but I want to point out that they should be made very light. One of mine, which is 30 inches tall, weighs five and a half pounds. It has an iron circle or ring that's half an inch deep and a quarter of an inch thick, as well as very thin iron stock bands to keep the nave or stock from splitting. The circle is attached to the spokes with small flat iron pins on each side, and each spoke has an iron ring to prevent its end from splitting when the pins are driven in. We also make the drill-wheels less concave than other wheels.

One Reason why the hinder Shares are shorter than the fore Share (and consequently the fore Part of their Sheats less oblique) is, that they may be set the nearer to the Plank; and I have had a Drill with Five Shares in the Plank, Fourteen Inches asunder, and Four of these hinder Sheats following in another Rank, whose Shares were less than Three Inches long; so that their Beams were set so far forwards, that one Hopper (by a Contrivance that carried the Seed forwards to the fore Rank, and backwards to the other Rank) supply’d the Seed to both Ranks of Trunks, and planted St. Foin in Rows Seven Inches asunder, when the Ground was too rough to be planted with Rows at that Distance by one Rank of Shares.

One reason why the back shares are shorter than the front share (and, as a result, the front part of their blades is less angled) is that they can be positioned closer to the board. I've had a setup with five shares on the board, fourteen inches apart, and four of these back blades following in another row, whose shares were less than three inches long. This meant their beams were positioned further forward, so one hopper (which moved the seed forward to the front row and backward to the back row) provided seed to both rows of trunks, and planted St. Foin in rows seven inches apart when the ground was too rough to be planted at that distance with a single row of shares.

It may be objected, that the fore Part of these hinder Sheats might not be oblique enough to raise up the Strings of Roots or Stubble, which might come across them in their Way; but this Inconvenience is remedied by the greater Obliquity of the fore Sheat (or Sheats), which clears the Way for the hinder Sheats, by raising out of the Ground such Strings, &c. which might annoy them; especially, in this Wheat-drill, where the fore Share so clears the way of the hinder Shares, that they can take hold of no String in the Ground, except of the Ends of such which the fore Share has loosen’d; and they hanging faster in the Ground by their other Ends, the hinder Shares slip by them without taking hold of them; and the Harrow-tines, going after so near to the Chanels of the hinder Sheats, by the same means escape also from hanging in such Strings.

It may be argued that the front part of these rear blades might not be angled enough to lift the roots or stubble that might come in their way; however, this issue is solved by the greater angle of the front blade(s), which clears the way for the rear blades by pulling out of the ground any roots, &c. that could hinder them. Particularly in this wheat drill, the front share effectively clears the path for the rear shares, so they can’t grab onto any roots in the ground except for the ends that the front share has loosened. And since those roots are still anchored by their other ends, the rear shares go past them without catching hold. The harrow tines, positioned closely behind the channels of the rear blades, also avoid getting caught in those roots for the same reason.

The Reasons for placing the One Share and One Hopper before, and the Two behind, in this Wheat-drill, are so many, and so obvious, that it would be but losing of Time to mention them.

The reasons for putting one share and one hopper at the front, and the two at the back, in this wheat drill are so numerous and so clear that it would be a waste of time to go over them.

[373]

[373]

The Limbers G and H, we make of Aspen, Poplar, or Willow, for Lightness; we make them as small and light as we can, allowing them convenient Strength; and the shorter they are, the more exactly the Drill will follow the Horse, without the Hand of him, that follows the Drill, whose chief Business is, with the Paddle to keep all the Shares and Tines from being clogged up by the Dirt sticking to them, and also to observe whether the Seed be delivered equally and justly to all the Chanels.

The Limbers G and H are made from Aspen, Poplar, or Willow for their lightness. We make them as small and light as possible while still allowing for enough strength. The shorter they are, the more accurately the drill will follow the horse, without needing the driver to guide it. The driver’s main job is to use the paddle to keep all the shares and tines from getting clogged with dirt and to make sure that the seed is distributed evenly into all the channels.

These Limbers should approach so near together at their fore Parts, near the Chain, that there may be none or very little room betwixt the Limbers and the Horse; and therefore must be nearer together for a very little Horse than for a great one: The Horse, which I have used in all my Drills for these many Years past, is a little one, about Thirteen Hands high; and the fore Part of my Drill-limbers are Twenty Inches wide asunder at the Chain.

These limbers should be placed close together at the front, near the chain, so there’s little to no space between the limbers and the horse. They need to be closer together for a small horse than for a larger one. The horse I’ve used in all my drills for many years is small, about thirteen hands high, and the front of my drill limbers is twenty inches wide at the chain.

At g on the Outside of the Limber G, is a small Staple driven in, having one Link on it, which holds a small Hook, which, taking hold of different Links of the very small Chain I, raises or sinks the fore Part of the Plough to different Heights. But take care to set it at such a Degree, that the fore and hinder Share may go equally deep in the Ground; and when they do so, the fore Part of the Limbers ought to be higher than the Traces which draw them.

At g on the Outside of the Limber G, there’s a small staple driven in, with one link attached to it, which holds a small hook. This hook grabs different links of the very small chain I, raising or lowering the front part of the plow to various heights. However, make sure to set it at a level where the front and back shares go equally deep into the ground; when they do, the front part of the limbers should be higher than the traces that pull them.

At h in the Limber H, is driven another Staple, which holds the other End of the Chain; or else, instead of a Chain, we may make use of a Piece of Cord, one End of which put thro’ this Staple, and ty’d to the Limber, and a Piece of Chain of half a dozen Links, fasten’d to the other End of such a Cord, will serve as well as a whole Chain, for raising and sinking the Limbers.

At h in the Limber H, there's another staple that holds the other end of the chain. Alternatively, instead of a chain, we can use a piece of cord, one end of which goes through this staple and is tied to the Limber. A piece of chain with half a dozen links attached to the other end of that cord will work just as well as a whole chain for raising and lowering the Limbers.

He who can by these Directions make this Wheat-drill, may very easily make any other Sort of Drill,[374] for planting any Sort of Corn, or other Seeds that are near about the Bigness of Seeds of Corn: He may make it with a single Row of Sheats, by placing as many of these fore Sheats as he pleases in the Plank, which maybe longer or shorter, as he thinks fit; and he may add a Beam betwixt every Two of them, with a Sheat in it, like these hinder Sheats; and then the Drill will be double, having Two Ranks of Shares. But I must advise him never to make a Drill with more Shares than will be contain’d in Four Feet Breadth, that is, from the outermost on the right Hand, to the outermost on the left Hand; for should the Drill be broader, some of the Shares might pass over hollow Places of the Ground without reaching them, and then the Seed falling on the Ground would be uncover’d in such low Places.

Anyone who can follow these instructions to make this wheat drill can easily create any other type of drill for planting any kind of corn or seeds that are similar in size to corn seeds. They can make it with a single row of shares by placing as many of these front shares as they want in the plank, which can be longer or shorter as they see fit. They can also add a beam between every two of them, with a share in it, similar to these back shares; then the drill will be doubled, with two rows of shares. However, I advise them never to make a drill wider than four feet across, from the outermost share on the right to the outermost share on the left. If the drill is wider, some shares may pass over low spots in the ground without reaching them, causing the seeds to fall on the ground and remain uncovered in those low areas.[374]

To a Drill that plants upon the Level, Marking-wheels are necessary, to the End that every Row may be at its due Distance: As in a Drill with Five Shares, for planting Rows Eight Inches asunder, Four of the Five cannot err, because Four equal Spaces are included betwixt the Five Shares; but the Fifth (which we call the parting Space) being on the Outside unconfin’d, would scarce ever be equal, were it not kept equal by the Help of the Marking-wheels. The Rule for setting of these is thus: We compute altogether the Five Spaces belonging to the Five Rows; which being in all Forty Inches, we set the Marking-wheels Eighty Inches asunder, that is, double the Distance of all the Spaces, each Wheel being equidistant to the Middle of the Drill, which Middle being exactly over the Horse-path, when the Drill is turn’d, the Horse goes back upon the Track of one of these Wheels, making his Path exactly Forty Inches distant from his last Path: By this means also the Rows of the whole Field may be kept equidistant, and parallel to one another; so that it would be difficult for an Eye to distinguish the parting Rows from the rest.

For a drill that plants in a straight line, marking wheels are essential to ensure each row is spaced correctly. In a drill with five shares meant to plant rows eight inches apart, four of the five shares can’t make a mistake because they create four equal spaces between them. However, the fifth share, which we call the parting space, is free on the outside and would hardly ever be equal without the help of the marking wheels. The method for setting these wheels is as follows: we calculate the total of the five spaces for the five rows, which adds up to forty inches. We then set the marking wheels eighty inches apart, exactly double the total distance of all the spaces. Each wheel is equidistant from the middle of the drill. When the drill is turned, the horse moves along the track of one of these wheels, creating a path that is exactly forty inches from its last path. This way, all the rows across the entire field can be kept evenly spaced and parallel to each other, making it hard for anyone to notice the parting rows from the rest.

[375]

[375]

But when Two different Sorts of Seed are planted, suppose a Row of St. Foin betwixt every Row of Barley, the Rows of which being Eight Inches asunder, and the Barley drill’d by the fore Hopper into the Chanels made by the five Shares, and the St. Foin drill’d from the hinder Hopper into the Chanels made by Six Shares, the Marking-wheels must be at no greater Distance than those above-mention’d, where there are only Five Shares; because one of the Six, which are for the St. Foin, must always return in the same Chanel, going twice therein; for One Row of Barley would be missing, in case the parting Space should be made by this Sixth Share; and that parting Space would have no Barley in it. Therefore it is a Rule, that whensoever Two Sorts of Seeds are drill’d, the Rows of one Sort betwixt the Rows of the other there must be an odd Share in the Drill, which must go twice in one Chanel, and the Distance of the Marking-wheels must be accounted from that Rank of Shares which are the fewest: It must also be contriv’d in this Case, that each outermost Seed-box must deliver but half the Quantity of Seed that each of the inner Seed-boxes do; because the outer ones going twice in a Place, their Chanels would otherwise have a Quantity of Seed double to the rest.

But when two different types of seeds are planted, let’s say a row of St. Foin between every row of Barley, with the rows being eight inches apart, and the Barley drilled by the front hopper into the channels created by the five shares, while the St. Foin is drilled from the back hopper into the channels made by six shares, the marking wheels must be no further apart than mentioned above, with only five shares. This is because one of the six shares meant for the St. Foin must always return to the same channel, going through it twice; otherwise, there would be a missing row of Barley if that sixth share created the separation, and that separation would have no Barley in it. Therefore, the rule is that whenever two types of seeds are drilled, with rows of one type between the rows of the other, there must be an uneven share in the drill, which must go twice in one channel, and the distance of the marking wheels must be measured from the row of shares that is fewer. It must also be arranged in this case that each outer seed box delivers only half the amount of seed that each of the inner seed boxes does; this is because if the outer ones were to go twice in one spot, their channels would otherwise contain double the amount of seed compared to the others.

In a Drill that has Two Spindles, we place the Marking-wheels on the foremost, which upon their Account is the longest; but if we should use the Wheels of the hinder Spindle as Marking-wheels, then that must be the longest, and so the fore Wheels (their Semidiameters being much longer than the Semidiameters of the hinder Wheels, and their Spindles shorter) would strike against the hinder Spindle, unless it were set farther back than is convenient.

In a drill with two spindles, we position the marking wheels on the front spindle, which is the longest. However, if we were to use the wheels from the back spindle as marking wheels, then that one would need to be the longest. In this case, the front wheels (with their semi-diameters being significantly longer than those of the back wheels, and their spindles shorter) would hit against the back spindle unless it is placed further back than is practical.

When Ground is harrow’d the last time before it is to be drill’d, we contrive that the Harrows may not go directly towards the same Point that the Drill is to go, lest the Track of the Marking-wheel should[376] be exactly parallel with the Track of the Harrow-tines, which might make it difficult to distinguish the Track of the Wheel from that of the Harrow-tine.

When the ground is tilled for the last time before drilling, we make sure that the harrows don’t go directly toward the same point as the drill, to avoid having the path of the marking wheel be exactly parallel to the path of the harrow tines. This could make it hard to tell the difference between the track of the wheel and the track of the harrow tines.[376]

He that has not a great Quantity of Ground to plant with St. Foin, and does not plant it betwixt Rows of Corn, will have occasion for no other Drill than this Wheat-drill, describ’d in Fig. 21. He may plant his Rows at Fifteen Inches asunder, by the hinder Hopper, and its Shares, without removing them, the fore Hopper being taken off; or else you may plant Three Rows at Sixteen Inches asunder, by setting the Beams, and their Seed-boxes and Hoppers, at Thirty-two Inches asunder instead of Fifteen, equidistant from the fore Share: and then the Marking-wheels, which are those of the fore Spindle, must be Eight Feet asunder; to wit, double to the Spaces of the Three Shares, which are Three times Sixteen Inches (or Four Feet); or you may set the Two hinder Beams, &c. at what Distance you please, setting the Marking-wheels to correspond with them; but then the Harrow must be alter’d, and both its Legs and Tines must change their Places in the Head, the Legs for guiding it exactly, and the Tines to follow in all the Three Rows, which will require a third Tine to be added in the Middle, between the other Two. But without any other Alteration than that of taking off the fore Hopper, and that of lessening the Seed-passages of the hinder Hopper by the Setting-screws; my Man planted me several Acres of St. Foin with my Wheat-drill Two Years ago, the Rows being all Fourteen Inches asunder: It is now an extraordinary good Crop.

If you don't have a lot of land to plant with St. Foin and aren't planting it between corn rows, you'll only need this wheat drill mentioned in Fig. 21.. You can space your rows fifteen inches apart using the back hopper and its shares without moving them, as long as you remove the front hopper. Alternatively, you can plant three rows sixteen inches apart by setting the beams, seed boxes, and hoppers thirty-two inches apart instead of fifteen, keeping them equally distant from the front share. The marking wheels, which are part of the front spindle, should be eight feet apart, which is double the distance of the three shares (three times sixteen inches or four feet). You can also set the two back beams, &c., at any distance you like, adjusting the marking wheels to match. However, you'll need to change the harrow by repositioning its legs and tines to guide it correctly, including adding a third tine in the middle between the other two to follow in all three rows. Other than removing the front hopper and adjusting the seed passages of the back hopper with the setting screws, my worker planted several acres of St. Foin with my wheat drill two years ago, keeping the rows fourteen inches apart. It turned out to be an excellent crop.

Wooden wedges

In case the Shares, being only Three, should in fine Ground go so deep as to endanger the Burying of the Seed, the best Remedy to prevent this fatal Misfortune is, to place a triangular Piece of Wood, like those in Figures 25. and 26. the first of which shews one Side thereof, with the Nail by which it is[377] to be nail’d into the lower Part of the Trunk, with, its most acute Angle uppermost; the other in Fig. 26. shews the same, and its Back-side a b, that is to be nail’d to the Back of the Shear, being of the same Breadth with it; its Bottom b c being the Breadth of the Plates, on their Inside, the Angle c coming out backwards, just as far as the Plates: The Depth of this Piece from a to c is uncertain, because the Plates of some Trunks are broader than of others. The Use of this Piece is, to fill up the lower Part of the Trunk; so that the Seed, dropping upon the oblique Side of this Piece of Wood, may by it be turn’d into the Chanel, after so much Mould is fallen in it, as will sufficiently lessen its Depth, whereby the Danger of burying the Seed is avoided: And such a Piece of Wood placed into each Trunk, I think, is preferable to Ground-wrists, which are commonly used for this Purpose; because the Ground-wrists leave the Chanels too wide and open.

If the three Shares happen to go so deep into the ground that they risk burying the Seed, the best way to prevent this disaster is to attach a triangular piece of wood, like those in Figures 25. and 26.. The first one shows one side, with the nail used to secure it into the lower part of the trunk, with its sharpest angle positioned at the top; the other in Fig. 26. shows the same and its back side a b, which will be nailed to the back of the shear, having the same width as it. Its bottom b c matches the width of the plates on their inside, with angle c extending backward just as far as the plates. The depth of this piece from a to c is variable, as some trunks have wider plates than others. The purpose of this piece is to fill the lower part of the trunk so that when the seed drops onto the slanted side of this wood, it can be directed into the channel after enough soil has collected in it to reduce its depth, thereby avoiding the risk of burying the seed. I believe that using this piece of wood in each trunk is better than using ground-wrists, which are often used for this purpose, because ground-wrists leave the channels too wide and exposed.

But when only the Two hinder Sheats are used for St. Foin, we can make their Chanels the shallower, by sinking the Limbers by their Chain, so much as that, the Plough bearing most upon the fore Share, the hinder Shares will go the shallower.

But when we only use the two back shares for St. Foin, we can make their channels shallower by lowering the limbers using their chain so that the plow puts most weight on the front share, allowing the back shares to go shallower.

When we drill hilly Ground, both up and down, we cover the hinder Parts of all the Trunks, from their Tops, to within Two or Three Inches of the Ground, to prevent the Seed’s falling out far behind the Trunk, in going up Hill; and this we do either by a Piece of Leather nail’d to each Side of a Sheat, the Middle of the Leather bearing against the hinder Part of the Plates (or Trunk); or sometimes, instead of Leather, we use Tin.

When we drill hilly ground, both up and down, we cover the back parts of all the trunks from their tops to within two or three inches of the ground to stop the seed from falling too far behind the trunk when going uphill. We do this either with a piece of leather nailed to each side of a sheet, with the middle of the leather pressing against the back part of the plates (or trunk), or sometimes we use tin instead of leather.

Every Trunk being thus inclos’d behind, we can drill up and down an hill of a moderate Ascent; but when it is very steep, we never drill any thing but St. Foin on it, and that by a Drill made for the Purpose, so very light, that a Man may carry it up the[378] Hill on his Back, and draw it down after him: This Drill has Five or Six Sheats in one Row (with the Harrow behind them). Their Shares being extremely short, the Standards which draw the Hopper must be set perpendicular to the Horizon, when the Drill is coming down, rather than to the Surface of the Side of the Hill: The Funnels must also correspond with the Standards.

Every trunk is enclosed behind, which allows us to drill up and down a hill with a moderate incline. However, when the slope is very steep, we only drill St. Foin on it, using a specially made drill that is so light a person can carry it up the[378] hill on their back and then pull it down afterward. This drill has five or six rows in a single line (with the harrow behind them). Since their shares are very short, the standards that hold the hopper must be positioned perpendicular to the horizon when the drill is going down, rather than parallel to the slope of the hill. The funnels must also align with the standards.

Some, instead of these Sheats, make use of hollow wooden Harrow-tines, thro’ which the Seed descends: But these I do not approve of; because where the Ground is hard, and not fine, they rise up, and make no Chanels for the Seed; and then it lying uncover’d will be malted.

Some people use hollow wooden harrow tines instead of these sheets, allowing the seed to fall through. However, I don’t recommend this method because when the ground is hard and not smooth, the tines just lift up and don’t create channels for the seed. As a result, the seed is left exposed and will rot.

When a Drill has only one Rank of Shares, we screw on the Harrow by its Legs, to the Inside of the Two outside Sheats, as near as we can to their fore Shoulders, leaving sufficient room for the Harrow to rise and sink, in the same manner as when it is drawn by the Beams.

When a Drill has only one row of shares, we attach the Harrow by its legs to the inside of the two outer sheets, as close as possible to their front shoulders, leaving enough space for the Harrow to rise and fall, just like when it's pulled by the beams.

Plate IV

B. Cole Sculps.

B. Cole Sculps.

Plate IV

Plate 4

Page. 378

Page 378


CHAP. 22.
Of the Turnep-Drill.

Plate 5. shews the whole Mounting of a Turnep-drill. Fig. 1. is a Plough, but little differing from the Drill-plough last mentioned. A, A, are the Two Limbers, differing in nothing from the other, except that they are lighter, not being above Two Inches Diameter, behind the Bar: They are drawn in the same manner as the other. Their Bar B is distant from the Plank Three Inches, being shoulder’d at each End, with a very thin flat Tenon, passing thro’ each Limber, and pinn’d on their Outsides, as at a a. We do not pin in this Bar thro’ the Limbers, lest the[379] Holes should make these very small Limbers the weaker in that Part. C, the Plank, Two Feet and an Inch long, Five Inches broad, and an Inch and a quarter thick. D, D, the Two double Standards, or Two Pair of Standards, placed into the Plank with Shoulders above, and Tenons pinn’d underneath the Plank, and are Thirteen Inches high above it: These serve for a Pair of Marking-wheels, when Turneps are drill’d on the Level, to keep the Rows all parallel, and at what Distance you please, by setting them according to the Rule already laid down.

Prunning late 5. shows the complete setup of a turnip drill. Fig. 1. is a plow that is quite similar to the drill plow mentioned earlier. A, A are the two limbers, which don't differ from the others, except they are lighter, measuring no more than two inches in diameter behind the bar. They are pulled in the same way as the others. The bar B is three inches away from the plank, shouldered at each end with a very thin flat tenon that passes through each limber and is pinned to the outside, as indicated at a a. We don’t pin this bar through the limbers to avoid making these smaller limbers weaker in that area. C, is the plank, which is two feet and one inch long, five inches wide, and one and a quarter inches thick. D, D are the two double standards, or two pairs of standards, which are attached to the plank with shoulders on top and tenons pinned underneath the plank, standing thirteen inches high above it. These act as a pair of marking wheels when drilling turnips on a level surface, helping to keep the rows parallel and at whatever distance you prefer by aligning them according to the rule already established.

Sometimes we place the double Standards into the Plank of the Wheat-drill, in the same manner that these are placed.

Sometimes we put the double standards into the plank of the wheat drill, just like these are arranged.

Turnip seed drill

We take off the inner Edge of each Standard at the Top, as at b b and b b, for the more easy Admission of the Spindle of the Marking-wheels into the Forks: This Spindle is kept in its Place by Two of the same sort of Wreaths, and placed in the same manner as those describ’d for the fore Hopper of the Wheat-drill.

We trim the inner edge of each standard at the top, as shown at b b and b b, to make it easier for the spindle of the marking wheels to fit into the forks. This spindle is held in place by two of the same type of wreaths and is positioned in the same way as those described for the front hopper of the wheat drill.

Such Marking-wheels are necessary for drilling upon the Level; but not for drilling upon Ridges.

Such marking wheels are needed for drilling on flat surfaces, but not for drilling on ridges.

E is the Beam, Two Feet Two Inches and an half long, Four Inches broad, and Two Inches thick: It is thus broad, that the Screws which hold on the cross Piece F, may be farther asunder: The Screws must be placed as near as may be to the Outsides of the Beam, and at equal Distance from each Side of the cross Piece; by which means the Standards are kept the firmer from Turning.

E is the beam, two feet two and a half inches long, four inches wide, and two inches thick. It's this wide so that the screws holding on the cross piece F can be spaced farther apart. The screws should be positioned as close to the outer edges of the beam as possible and at an equal distance from each side of the cross piece. This way, the standards are held more firmly in place and don't turn.

Cross piece

The Distance between the Plank and the cross Piece is Eleven Inches. The Breadth of the cross Piece is Two Inches and a quarter. This cross Piece is shewn apart in Fig. 2. where its Two Standards A B, are each Seventeen Inches long (or high), and each on its fore Side and hinder Side One Inch and a quarter broad, and nearly Three quarters of an Inch thick: They are[380] shoulder’d and pinn’d into the cross Piece at a b. The cross Piece is Thirteen Inches and an half long, and one Inch and a quarter thick in the Middle from c to d; but for about an Inch on the Inside of each Standard is Two Inches and an half thick, that the Standards may have the more Wood to support them, and that the Hopper, bearing upon the thicker Parts of the cross Piece, may be held up above the Funnel, that the Fork of the brass Spindle may not strike against it, when the Plough is taken up to be turn’d, there being a little more than a quarter of an Inch of the Breadth of the cross Piece behind the Standard, for the Hopper to rest on.

The distance between the plank and the cross piece is eleven inches. The width of the cross piece is two and a quarter inches. This cross piece is shown separately in Fig. 2. where its two standards A B are each seventeen inches long (or high), and each is one and a quarter inches wide on the front and back sides, and nearly three quarters of an inch thick. They are shouldered and pinned into the cross piece at a b. The cross piece is thirteen and a half inches long and one and a quarter inches thick in the middle from c to d; however, for about an inch on the inside of each standard, it is two and a half inches thick, so the standards have more wood for support, and so the hopper, resting on the thicker parts of the cross piece, can stay above the funnel without the fork of the brass spindle striking against it when the plow is lifted to turn, as there is just over a quarter of an inch of the width of the cross piece behind the standard for the hopper to rest on.

The whole Distance between the Standards is Nine Inches and a quarter. The Standards must be exactly perpendicular to their cross Piece: Their Tops are drawn up each to a Point, as at e and f, by which the Hopper is the more easily put on upon them.

The total distance between the standards is nine and a quarter inches. The standards must be perfectly vertical to their cross piece. Their tops taper up to a point, as shown at e and f, which makes it easier to place the hopper on them.

The Funnel, Sheat, Share, and Trunk, are the same as those in the Wheat-drill, except a few Differences: As G in Fig. 1. is the same as the fore Sheat of the Wheat-drill, with its Accoutrements; only it is lower, being but Eight Inches high from the Bottom of the Share up to the Beam; and the Plates of the Trunk are somewhat narrower: Its Tenon passes thro’ the Beam, and comes up above it, betwixt the Funnel and the cross Piece; and there is pinn’d in thro’ its Hole above the Beam. There is no want of Wood behind the Sheat, the Funnel not being cut in the Beam, but placed upon it.

The Funnel, Sheat, Share, and Trunk are the same as those in the Wheat drill, except for a few differences. G in Fig. 1. is the same as the front Sheat of the Wheat drill, complete with its attachments; it’s just lower, standing only eight inches tall from the bottom of the Share to the Beam. The plates of the Trunk are a bit narrower. Its Tenon goes through the Beam and rises above it, positioned between the Funnel and the cross piece, and it’s pinned through its hole above the Beam. There’s no shortage of wood behind the Sheat since the Funnel is not cut into the Beam but is placed on top of it.

Funnel

The Funnel is shewn apart in Fig. 3. and is Two Inches deep, Four Inches square at Top; its Four Sides terminating at an Hole in the Bottom, half an Inch broad from a to b, and near an Inch long from c to d, which Length is divided in the Middle, by the upper Edge of a Brass Spout, which divides the Hole into Two equal Parts (or Holes), each of which[381] is about half an Inch square; this Funnel being screw’d on upon the Beam by Two Wood Screws, entering at Two opposite Corners of the Funnel, as at c d in Fig. 1. so that the Seed may drop from the Seed-box upon the right Side of the Funnel at e, which being about half an Inch distant from the Partition, and equidistant from both Holes, the Seed rebounding is pretty equally distributed to each of the Holes.

The Funnel is shown separately in Fig. 3. and is two inches deep, four inches square at the top. Its four sides lead to a hole at the bottom, half an inch wide from a to b, and nearly an inch long from c to d. This length is split in the middle by the upper edge of a brass spout, which divides the hole into two equal parts (or holes), each about half an inch square. This funnel is attached to the beam with two wood screws entering at two opposite corners of the funnel, as shown at c d in Fig. 1., so that the seed can drop from the seed box onto the right side of the funnel at e, which is about half an inch away from the partition and equidistant from both holes, allowing the seed to bounce and be distributed fairly evenly into each hole.

The fore Part of the foremost Hole being equal with the Back of the Sheat, the Beam being cut thro’; so that the Back of the Sheat, and the fore Part of the Hole thro’ the Beam, and the fore Part of this Hole, make one plain Surface, whereby the Seed that falls into this foremost Hole, descends to the Ground, near the Back of the Sheat, thro’ the Trunk.

The front part of the first hole is aligned with the back of the sheet, with the beam cut through; so that the back of the sheet, the front part of the hole through the beam, and the front part of this hole create a continuous surface, allowing the seed that falls into this first hole to drop to the ground near the back of the sheet through the trunk.

Beam and trunk with hole

And the Seed which falls into the hinder Hole, is convey’d obliquely backwards thro’ Part of the Beam, by a short thin Brass Spout, whose Diameter in the Inside is somewhat more than half an Inch; but the fore Part of it, which divides the Two Holes, descends first perpendicularly half an Inch, and then turns off backwards, and there the Spout begins to be round: Its joining is on its hinder Part, to the end that the Seed, never running upon it, cannot be stopp’d by it. The lower End of this Spout ends at the lower Surface of the Beam, a little behind the Plates of the Trunk, which Hole is seen at a in Fig. 4. where this Hole delivers the Seed down into the Spout A, when it is drawn up into its Place by the String B drawn thro’ the Hole at b in the End of the Beam, and there tied until it stand in the Posture in which it is seen at f in Fig. 1.

And the seed that falls into the back hole is moved at an angle backward through part of the beam by a short, narrow brass spout, which has an inner diameter of just over half an inch. The front part of the spout, which separates the two holes, first drops straight down half an inch and then turns back; at that point, the spout starts to be round. The connection is at the back so that the seed doesn't slide over it and get stuck. The lower end of this spout reaches the bottom surface of the beam, just behind the plates of the trunk, which you can see at a in Fig. 4.. This hole sends the seed down into the spout A when it is pulled up into position by string B, which runs through the hole at b at the end of the beam and is tied there until it is in the position shown at f in Fig. 1..

Seed spout

The Shape of this Spout is better seen at Fig. 5. where A is the Spout, Four Inches long, a full Inch Diameter in the Inside: Its lower End is circular; but its upper End B is cut at oblique Angles, so that when it is drawn up to its Place, its Edges will touch the[382] lower Surface of the Beam, and inclose the lower End of the other Spout within it: It is made of thin hammer’d Brass (as is the other). The Edges of the Piece of Brass, which make this Spout, are join’d on its hinder Part, for the same Reason that they are so in the other Spout. At b there is a Jag cut in one of these Edges, and rais’d upwards, by which Jag the String being tied on the Spout just below, is hindered from slipping upwards.

The shape of this spout is better seen at Fig. 5. where A is the spout, four inches long, with an inside diameter of a full inch. Its lower end is circular, but its upper end B is cut at an angle, so that when it's pulled up into place, its edges touch the[382] lower surface of the beam and enclose the lower end of the other spout within it. It’s made of thin hammered brass (like the other one). The edges of the brass piece that forms this spout are joined at the back for the same reason as in the other spout. At b, there’s a notch cut in one of these edges, raised upwards, and it's through this notch that the string, tied just below the spout, is prevented from slipping up.

Joining to the highest Part, and made with Part of the same Piece of Brass, turn’d back from the End of the Spout, is its Hinge C, near Three quarters of an Inch long in its Hollow.

Joining to the highest part, and made with a piece of the same brass, turned back from the end of the spout, is its hinge C, almost three quarters of an inch long in its hollow.

D is a thin Piece of Iron, half an Inch broad, and a little longer than the Top of the Sheat, by which the Spout is held up: This Piece of Iron is riveted by a Rivet passing thro’ an Hole at c, and thro’ the Sheat, just before the Trunk, and thro’ another Piece of Iron on the opposite Side; both the Pieces of Iron, with their upper Edges touching the Beam, being thus riveted to the Sheat.

D is a narrow piece of iron, half an inch wide and slightly longer than the top of the sheet that supports the spout. This iron piece is secured with a rivet that goes through a hole at c, through the sheet just before the trunk, and through another piece of iron on the opposite side; both pieces of iron are riveted to the sheet with their top edges touching the beam.

The Spout is pinned in by the Screw E, passing as by the prick’d Line F thro’ the Hole G, and also thro’ the Hinge C, and screw’d into the Hole of the opposite Piece of Iron, corresponding with the Hole G; and then it will appear as in Fig. 4.

The Spout is secured by Screw E, going through the marked Line F into Hole G, and also through Hinge C, and screwed into the hole of the opposite piece of iron that lines up with Hole G; it will then look like in Fig. 4.

Instead of these Pieces of Iron, we sometimes use Pieces of Wood, a little broader and thicker, nail’d on the Sheat.

Instead of these pieces of iron, we sometimes use pieces of wood, a bit wider and thicker, nailed onto the sheet.

The Use of this Spout is for carrying half of the Seed backwards, so that it may drop upon the Chanel, after the Earth is fallen into it: By this means the Seed lying very shallow, being only cover’d by a little Earth rais’d by the Harrow, by its Shallowness comes up in moist Weather, sooner than the other half, which lies deeper in the Ground; but if the Weather be dry when planted, the deeper half, by the Moisture of the Earth from the Dews, will come up[383] first, and the shallow half will not come up till Rain come to moisten it; so that by the shallow or deep, the Turnep-fly is generally disappointed.

The purpose of this spout is to distribute half of the seeds backward, allowing them to fall into the channel after the soil has settled in. This way, the seeds are placed very shallow, covered only by a bit of soil raised by the harrow. Because they are shallow, they will germinate in wet weather sooner than the other half, which is buried deeper in the ground. However, if the weather is dry when planted, the deeper half will emerge first, thanks to the moisture in the soil from dew, while the shallow half won’t sprout until it rains to moisten it. This means that whether the seeds are shallow or deep, the turnip fly is typically left disappointed.[383]

Drill harrow frame
Drill harrow tine

Fig. 6. shews one of the Tines of a Drill-harrow made of Wood: Its Edge a b is made roundish at b, by which means it raises the Earth on its Sides; but does not drive it before: This Edge from a to b is Six Inches long; from b to c, being its Bottom, is One Inch and a quarter; from c to d is the Back, an Inch and an half thick at Top, gradually tapering downwards to c, where it is half an Inch thick, being shoulder’d all round: It has a flat Tenon A, which passes thro’ a Mortise in the Harrow-head; the Length of which Mortise is parallel with the Length of the Harrow-head, into which it is held by a Pin, passing thro’ the Hole of the Tenon, above the Harrow; as may be seen in Fig. 7. at a; and its Fellow at b.

Fig. 6. shows one of the tines of a wooden drill-harrow. Its edge a b is rounded at b, which helps it lift the soil on its sides without pushing it forward. This edge measures six inches in length from a to b; from b to c, the bottom is one and a quarter inches; from c to d is the back, which is one and a half inches thick at the top, gradually tapering down to c, where it's half an inch thick and has rounded shoulders all around. It features a flat tenon A, which fits through a mortise in the harrow head; the length of the mortise is aligned with the length of the harrow head, secured by a pin that goes through the hole of the tenon, above the harrow, as seen in Fig. 7. at a; and its counterpart at b.

These Two Tines are Eight Inches asunder at their Points, and Six Inches and a quarter asunder at their upper Parts, just under the Harrow-head. The fore Edge of the Tine A inclines a little to the Left, as the Edge of the Tine B doth to the Right.

These two tines are eight inches apart at their tips and six and a quarter inches apart at their upper parts, just below the harrow head. The front edge of tine A tilts slightly to the left, while the edge of tine B tilts to the right.

Fig. 8. shews one of the Legs of the Harrow. At a is seen the round Tenon, which passes thro’ the Harrow-head up to its Shoulder, and is pinned in thro’ an Hole of the Tenon just behind the Harrow-head; upon this Tenon the Harrow-head may turn: The other End has an Hole at b, thro’ which it is pinned on to the Beam. The Length of the Leg from the Shoulder at a, to the Hole at b, is Twenty Inches: Its Thickness is an Inch and a quarter, and its Breadth an Inch. The Two Legs are seen mark’d C, D, in Fig. 7. They bend down in the Middle, to give the Harrow the more room for rising and sinking; they are parallel to each other, and distant a little more than the Breadth of the Beam, that they may have Liberty to move thereon, when one End of the Harrow-head sinks lower than the other, by the Unevenness of the Ground.

Fig. 8. shows one of the legs of the harrow. At a, you can see the round tenon that goes through the harrow head up to its shoulder and is pinned through a hole in the tenon just behind the harrow head; the harrow head can turn on this tenon. The other end has a hole at b, through which it is pinned to the beam. The length of the leg from the shoulder at a to the hole at b is twenty inches. Its thickness is one and a quarter inches, and its width is one inch. The two legs are marked C and D in Fig. 7.. They bend down in the middle to give the harrow more room to rise and sink; they are parallel to each other and a little more than the width of the beam apart so they can move freely when one end of the harrow head sinks lower than the other due to uneven ground.

Harrow leg

[384]

[384]

Iron pin

The Harrow is pinned on to the Beam by the Iron Pin, Fig. 9. passing thro’ the Hole of the Leg at g, and thro’ the Beam, and also thro’ the other Leg on the other Side of the Beam, where the Screw at the End of the Pin has a Nut screw’d on it. This Pin is round from its Head all the Way thro’ the first Harrow-leg, and thro’ the Beam; but all that Part of the Pin, which is in that Leg against which the Nut is screw’d, must be square; whereby that Part being bigger than the round Part of the Pin, and than the Hole in the last-mention’d Leg, cannot turn in the Hole of that Leg; for if it did, the Nut would be soon unscrew’d by the Motion of the Harrow; but the Pin must have room to turn in the other Leg, and in the Beam. This square Part of the Pin is seen at a, Fig. 9. The whole Length of the Pin, from its Head to the End of the square Part at a, where the Screw begins, is of the Thickness of the Two Legs, and of the Breadth of the Beam.

The Harrow is attached to the Beam by the Iron Pin, Fig. 9., going through the Hole of the Leg at g, and through the Beam, as well as through the other Leg on the opposite Side of the Beam, where the Screw at the End of the Pin has a Nut screwed onto it. This Pin is round from its Head all the Way through the first Harrow-leg, and through the Beam; however, the part of the Pin that is in the Leg against which the Nut is screwed must be square. This way, that part is larger than the round part of the Pin and the Hole in the last-mentioned Leg, preventing it from turning in that Leg's Hole; otherwise, the Nut would quickly unscrew from the Harrow’s motion. But the Pin must have space to turn in the other Leg and in the Beam. This square part of the Pin is shown at a, Fig. 9.. The entire Length of the Pin, from its Head to the End of the square part at a, where the Screw starts, is the same Thickness as the Two Legs and the Width of the Beam.

We sometimes set the Legs of the Harrow Two Inches wider asunder, by making them each an Inch thicker at their fore Ends in their Inside, and reaching Five or Six Inches behind their Iron Pin: These thicker Parts, bearing against the Beam, keep the hinder Part of each Harrow-leg an Inch distant from the Sides of the Beam, whereby the Harrow-legs are Six Inches asunder, instead of Four, by means of these added Thicknesses.

We sometimes set the legs of the harrow two inches wider apart by making them each an inch thicker at the front on the inside, extending five or six inches behind their iron pin. These thicker parts press against the beam, keeping the back part of each harrow leg an inch away from the sides of the beam, which makes the harrow legs six inches apart instead of four, thanks to these added thicknesses.

When a Drill is taken up to be turn’d, the Person that does it, takes hold of the Harrow-head, and lifts it up: The Legs of the Harrow, bearing against the cross Piece, support the whole Weight of the Drill.

When a drill is picked up to be turned, the person doing it grabs the harrow head and lifts it. The legs of the harrow, pressing against the crosspiece, support the entire weight of the drill.

When the Harrow does not go deep enough, we tie a Stone upon the Middle of the Harrow-head, by a String that passes thro’ the Holes at h. All the Wood of this Plough and Harrow is Ash, except the Limbers.

When the Harrow doesn't dig deep enough, we tie a stone in the middle of the Harrow head with a string that goes through the holes at h. All the wood in this plow and Harrow is ash, except for the Limbers.

[385]

[385]

Opened turnip hopper

The Hopper of the Turnep-drill is very different from those already described. It consists of a Box placed into the Middle of a Carriage; which Box is described in all its Parts, lying open with their Insides upwards in Fig. 10. A is the fore Side of the Box, Five Inches and an half deep, and Six Inches and an half long. B, the hinder Side of the Box, opposite to the former, and of equal Dimensions.

The hopper of the turnip drill is quite different from those described earlier. It consists of a box located in the middle of a carriage; this box is shown with all its parts exposed, facing upwards in Fig. 10.. A is the front side of the box, which is five and a half inches deep and six and a half inches long. B is the back side of the box, opposite the front, and has the same dimensions.

Each End of the Box is made with Three Pieces of Board, of which C the uppermost is Three Inches and a quarter deep, and Five Inches long; which Length is the Breadth of the Inside of the Box. The End of the Piece C, when in its Place, stands against the prick’d Line a b in the fore Side A; the other End standing against the prick’d Lines in B, which is opposite to, and corresponds with, the prick’d Line a b; the fore Side, and hinder Side, being screw’d to the Ends of this Piece by Four Screws.

Each end of the box is constructed with three pieces of board. The top piece, labeled C, is three and a quarter inches deep and five inches long, which matches the width of the inside of the box. When positioned, the end of piece C aligns with the marked line a b on the front side A, while the other end aligns with the marked lines on B, which is opposite and corresponds with the marked line a b. The front side and back side are secured to the ends of this piece using four screws.

The Piece D is Two Inches and a quarter broad, and of the same Length with the Piece C, and screw’d up to the Bottom of it with Two Screws, and then its End will bear against the prick’d Line b c, and that which is opposite to it in the Side B.

The Piece D is two and a quarter inches wide and the same length as Piece C. It's attached to the bottom of it with two screws, and then its end will rest against the marked line b c and the corresponding line on the side B.

E is the lower Piece of this End, and an Inch and a quarter broad: Its End is to stand against the prick’d Line c d, and its other End at the opposite prick’d Line in B. The Piece D must be screw’d upon the upper Edge of the Piece E, as the Bottom F must be screw’d up to its under Edge, which will stand upon the prick’d Line e f. The Three Pieces G, H, I, being opposite to C, D, E, and of the same Dimensions with them, placed in the same manner, make the other End of this Box. At g in the Bottom F, appears the Hole which is over the Mortise of the Brass Seed-box, the Shape and Size of which Hole may be seen by the prick’d Lines upon the Flanches B, C, of Fig. 9. in Plate 2. The foremost End of which Hole reaches almost as far forwards as the[386] End of the Axis of the Tongue of the Brass Seed-box, and its hinder End almost as far as the hinder End of its Cover[269]. The Bottom F, being of the same Length, with C, D, E, and their Opposites, bears against the prick’d Line d h of the fore Side A, and against the opposite prick’d Line of B. The Length of this Bottom F is the Breadth of the Inside of the Box, and its Breadth reaches to the outer Edges of the Pieces E and I, being Three Inches and an half.

E is the lower piece at this end, measuring an inch and a quarter wide. One end will sit against the marked line c d, while the other end meets the opposite marked line at B. The piece D needs to be screwed to the top edge of piece E, just as the bottom piece F should be screwed to its underside, resting on the marked line e f. The three pieces G, H, and I, which are positioned directly opposite C, D, and E and are of the same dimensions, will form the other end of this box. At g on the bottom F, there’s a hole above the mortise of the brass seed box; its shape and size can be seen from the marked lines on the flanges B and C of Fig. 9. in Plate 2.. The front end of this hole extends nearly as far forward as the end of the axis of the tongue of the brass seed box, while its back end almost reaches the back of its cover [269]. The bottom F, matching the length of C, D, E, and their counterparts, aligns with the marked line d h on the front side A and the corresponding marked line on B. The length of bottom F equals the width of the inside of the box, and its width extends to the outer edges of pieces E and I, measuring three and a half inches.

[269]Commonly it reaches within half a quarter of an Inch; but if it should only reach within a quarter of an Inch of them, it would not have that ill Consequence at that Distance, as the same Position would have in the large Seed-boxes; for, in them, the Seed would, in such Case, be apt to bear against the Bottom of the Hopper, and obstruct the Motion of the Brass Tongue, which small Seeds cannot do in the Turnep-seed Box.

[269]Usually, it extends to about half a quarter of an inch; however, if it only extends to within a quarter of an inch, it wouldn’t have the same negative effect at that distance as it would in the larger seed boxes. In those cases, the seeds would likely press against the bottom of the hopper and block the movement of the brass tongue, which smaller seeds can't do in the turnip seed box.

All the Jointings of these Pieces must be at right Angles, and so close, that no Seed may run out at them. All the Pieces are of Board, full half-inch thick, except the Bottom, which is thinner.

All the joints of these pieces must be at right angles and so tight that no seeds can escape from them. All the pieces are made of board, a full half-inch thick, except for the bottom, which is thinner.

Bottom of seed box

Fig. 11. shews the Bottom of the Box with its under Side uppermost, where the light Part A is the Bottom-board, covering the Two End-boards, E and I, in Fig. 10. The dark Parts B and C are the under Sides of D and H, in Fig. 10. At a is the fore End of the Brass Seed-box screw’d up to this Bottom-board. At b is the hinder End of the Brass Seed-box screw’d up in like manner, the outer Edge of the Flanch of the Seed-box being even with the Edge of the Bottom-board. The End of the Brass Spindle, with its Fork, appears at C.

Fig. 11. shows the bottom of the box facing up, where the light part A is the bottom board, covering the two end boards, E and I, in Fig. 10.. The dark parts B and C are the underside of D and H, in Fig. 10.. At a is the front end of the brass seed box screwed into this bottom board. At b is the back end of the brass seed box, also screwed in the same way, with the outer edge of the flange of the seed box aligned with the edge of the bottom board. The end of the brass spindle, with its fork, is seen at C.

Seed box

Fig. 12. shews this Box standing upon its Bottom, with its hinder Side laid open. At a is the Hole in the Bottom, under which the Brass Seed-box is fasten’d, with small Iron Screws, square near the Heads, passing thro’ the Bottom, and thro’ the Holes at each End of the Brass Box, with their Nuts underneath.[387] The Pins must touch all the Sides of the Holes in the Brass, to prevent the Seed-box from moving any Way.

Fig. 12. shows this box standing on its base, with the back side open. At a is the hole in the bottom, under which the brass seed box is secured with small iron screws, flat near the heads, going through the bottom and through the holes at each end of the brass box, with their nuts underneath.[387] The pins must touch all the sides of the holes in the brass to keep the seed box from moving in any direction.

A is the fore Side of the Box. B the hinder Side lying down. C is the Piece H of Fig. 10. which makes a sort of Shelf in the Box at its left End. D at the right End makes another like Shelf, underneath which, the Fork of the Brass Spindle is turn’d by the Crank in the End of the wooden (false) Spindle. By means of these Shelves, there is room for the Two wooden false Spindles to come the further into the Carriage, without lessening the upper Part of the Box. E and F are the Two Ends of the upper Part of the Box, made by the Two Pieces G and C of Fig. 10. When the hinder Side B is rais’d up, and screw’d to these Ends, the Box is complete.

A is the front side of the box. B is the back side lying down. C is the piece H of Fig. 10. that creates a kind of shelf in the box at its left end. D at the right end makes another shelf, underneath which the fork of the brass spindle is turned by the crank at the end of the wooden (fake) spindle. Thanks to these shelves, there's enough space for the two wooden fake spindles to move further into the carriage without reducing the upper part of the box. E and F are the two ends of the upper part of the box, made by the two pieces G and C of Fig. 10.. When the back side B is raised up and screwed to these ends, the box is complete.

We put a Lid upon this Box, which is hing’d on to its right or left End. This Box (having the Brass Seed-box at its Bottom) is to be placed into the Middle of a Frame or Carriage.

We put a lid on this box, which is hinged on either the right or left side. This box (with the brass seed box at the bottom) is to be placed in the middle of a frame or carriage.

Inside of carriage

Fig. 13. shews the Inside of the Carriage lying down. A is the hinder Side, Eighteen Inches long, Dove-tails and all, and Six Inches broad. B the fore Side of the same Length with the hinder Side, and Eleven Inches broad. This Five Inches greater Breadth than the hinder Part is, because a greater Height is required on the fore Side, on account of the Hopper’s being drawn, and the Plough held up by that and the Pieces that must be fix’d to it. C, D, are its Two Ends, Six Inches long, beside their Dove-tails, and Six Inches broad. E and F are Two Pieces each Six Inches long, whose Ends are to stand against the prick’d Lines a b and c d of the hinder Side, and their other Ends against the prick’d Lines in the fore Side, which are opposite to these. The Breadth of each of these Pieces is Four Inches: When they are in their Places, their lower Edges come even with the Bottom of the Carriage. Their Use is to support[388] the Ends of the Spindles which come just thro’ their Holes, after each of them have passed their Hole at its respective End of the Carriage.

Fig. 13. shows the inside of the carriage lying down. A is the back side, eighteen inches long, including the dove-tails, and six inches wide. B is the front side, the same length as the back side, and eleven inches wide. This five-inch greater width at the front is needed because a greater height is required there, due to the hopper being drawn and the plow being held up by it and the parts that need to be attached. C and D are the two ends, six inches long, besides their dove-tails, and six inches wide. E and F are two pieces, each six inches long, whose ends are positioned against the marked lines a b and c d on the back side, with their other ends against the marked lines on the front side that correspond to these. The width of each of these pieces is four inches. When they are in place, their lower edges align with the bottom of the carriage. Their purpose is to support the ends of the spindles that pass through their holes after each has gone through its respective hole at the end of the carriage.

All this Carriage is made of Board full half-inch thick; The Ends C and D are made of double Thickness by another Piece of Board added to each, that covers all their Insides, except their Dove-tails. These Boards with which they are lin’d, are nail’d to them, with their Grain going a different Way, and crossing the Grain of the Board at the End, either at right or oblique Angles. This prevents the Holes from splitting out, and makes the Holes of a double Thickness; whereby the Spindle is the less worn by them, in case there are no Brass Wreaths to enter them.

All this carriage is made of boards that are a full half-inch thick. The ends C and D have double thickness, thanks to an extra piece of board added to each, which covers all their insides, except for the dove-tails. These boards that line the inside are nailed to them with the grain running in a different direction and crossing the grain of the board at the ends, either at right or angled lines. This prevents the holes from splitting and creates holes of double thickness, which reduces wear on the spindle, especially if there are no brass sleeves to fit into them.

The middle Pieces E and F are lin’d by their whole Surfaces, in the same Manner as the Insides of the Ends are lin’d.

The middle pieces E and F are lined on their entire surfaces, just like the insides of the ends are lined.

When these Ends and middle Pieces are in their Places, a wooden Cylinder, of the exact Diameter of the Holes, is thrust thro’ all Four, to hold them exactly true, whilst the Ends and middle Pieces are all screw’d fast into their Places.

When these ends and middle pieces are in their places, a wooden cylinder, with the exact diameter of the holes, is pushed through all four to keep them aligned while the ends and middle pieces are securely screwed into place.

The prick’d Lines are drawn all round the Carriage, thro’ the Centres of the Holes, and at equal Distance from the Bottom of the Carriage, which is an Inch and Three quarters, and the One-eighth of an Inch. This prick’d Line is a Direction how high to nail on the Ledgers G and H, whereon the Box is to stand; and the Distance the upper Surface of the Ledger must be above the prick’d Line, is the Semidiameter of the Brass Spindle; and the Thickness of the Brass Box above the Spindle, or which is the same thing, the Distance between the Centre of the great Hole of the Brass Seed-box, and the Plane of the Top of its Mortise, being half an Inch and half a quarter, strike a Line above the prick’d Line parallel to it, at this Distance above, and then nail on the Ledger,[389] with its upper Edge at this Line. This, with its opposite Ledger plac’d in the same manner, will support the Box with the Axis of the Spindle of the Seed-box, at equal Height with the Centres of the Holes of the Carriage; so that if those Holes are parallel to, and equidistant from the fore Side and hinder Side of the Carriage, and the Axis of the Brass Spindle be placed in the like manner parallel to, and equidistant from the fore Side and hinder Side of the Box; then when the Box is thrust down in its Place, upon these Ledgers, and the wooden (false) Spindles are placed into their Holes, their Axis will fall into a strait Line with the Axis of the Brass Spindle, as they ought.

The marked lines are drawn all around the carriage, through the centers of the holes, and are spaced equally from the bottom of the carriage, which is one and three-quarters inches, plus one-eighth of an inch. This marked line indicates how high to attach the ledgers G and H, where the box will rest; and the height of the top surface of the ledger above the marked line is the radius of the brass spindle. The thickness of the brass box above the spindle, or essentially the distance between the center of the large hole in the brass seed box and the plane of the top of its mortise, is half an inch plus a quarter inch. Strike a line above the marked line, parallel to it, at this distance, and then nail on the ledger, with its upper edge at this line. This, along with the opposite ledger positioned in the same way, will support the box with the axis of the seed box spindle at the same height as the centers of the holes in the carriage. Therefore, if those holes are parallel to and equidistant from the front and back sides of the carriage, and the axis of the brass spindle is set up in the same way, parallel to and equidistant from the front and back sides of the box; then, when the box is pushed down into place on these ledgers, and the wooden (false) spindles are inserted into their holes, their axis will align in a straight line with the axis of the brass spindle, just as it should. [389]

Carriage laid open

Fig. 14. shews the Carriage laid open. A is its back Side lying down. B is its fore Side standing up. C is the square End of the left (false) Spindle, whereon a Wheel is to be put up to the Shoulders of the Spindle, quite close to the Ends of the Carriage. This Spindle, being an Inch and an half Diameter, is held in its Place, and kept from moving end-ways, by Two Wreaths; the one at a, bearing against the Inside of the End of the Carriage, the other Wreath at b, bearing against the left Side of the middle Piece; which Wreath keeps the Spindle from moving towards the right Hand, as the other does from moving towards the left. D is the square End of the other wooden Spindle, whereon a Wheel must be placed in the same manner as the other Wheel. This Spindle is kept from moving end-ways by Two Wreaths, in the same manner as the other Spindle is; but this right-hand Spindle, being that which turns the Brass Spindle by its Crank, which enters the Fork, should have its Wreaths of Brass, like those describ’d in Fig. 17. Plate 4. Part of which Wreaths entering about Three quarters of an Inch into the Hole of the End and middle Part of the Carriage, being firmly screw’d on to the Spindle, prevent the Friction that would otherwise be betwixt the Wood of the Spindle, and the Wood of the Holes; which Friction wearing the[390] Wood of both, would in time cause the Spindle to be loose in its Holes, whereby its Axis would deviate from the strait Line it should make with the Axis of the Brass Spindle, and make an Angle with it; and then the Crank would change its Place in the Fork at every Revolution of the Wheels; and if the Hole should be worn very wide, and the Spindle worn much less, the Crank might let go the Fork; but when the Wood is of this Thickness, and each Hole has Wood in it, with its Grains pointing different ways, it would be many Years before the Holes would become large enough for this to happen, tho’ only wooden Wreaths were used; and as to the Two Wreaths of the left Spindle, they may be of Wood, because tho’ that Spindle should grow loose, it is no Damage; for it only serves to bear up that End of the Carriage; but he that has this Sort of Brass Wreaths for the hinder Hopper of a Wheat-drill, may take them thence, and place them upon these Spindles, and remove them again to the Wheat-drill when that is used; for that and the Turnep-drill are very rarely, or never, used at the same time.

Fig. 14. shows the carriage open. A is its back side lying down. B is its front side standing up. C is the square end of the left (false) spindle, where a wheel is to be attached to the shoulders of the spindle, very close to the ends of the carriage. This spindle, which has a diameter of an inch and a half, is held in place and kept from moving endwise by two wreaths; one at a, pressing against the inside of the end of the carriage, and the other wreath at b, pressing against the left side of the middle piece. This wreath prevents the spindle from moving to the right, while the other keeps it from moving to the left. D is the square end of the other wooden spindle, where a wheel must be placed in the same way as the other wheel. This spindle is also kept from moving endwise by two wreaths, just like the other spindle. However, this right-hand spindle, which turns the brass spindle by its crank that enters the fork, should have its wreaths made of brass, like those described in Fig. 17. Plate 4.. Part of these wreaths extends about three-quarters of an inch into the hole of the end and middle part of the carriage, and being securely screwed onto the spindle, they prevent friction that would otherwise occur between the wood of the spindle and the wood of the holes. That friction would wear down the wood of both, eventually causing the spindle to become loose in its holes, which would result in its axis not being aligned with the axis of the brass spindle and creating an angle with it. In that case, the crank would shift position in the fork with every revolution of the wheels. If the hole were worn really wide and the spindle much less so, the crank might release the fork. However, since the wood is this thick and each hole has wood in it with the grains pointing in different directions, it would take many years before the holes could become large enough for this to happen, even with only wooden wreaths used. As for the two wreaths of the left spindle, they can be made of wood, because even if that spindle becomes loose, it won't cause any problems; it simply serves to support that end of the carriage. However, someone who has brass wreaths for the rear hopper of a wheat drill can take them from there and place them on these spindles, and then switch them back to the wheat drill when needed since the wheat drill and the turnip drill are rarely, if ever, used at the same time.

E is the Iron Crank, plac’d into the false Spindle, in the manner shewn at H in Fig. 5. of Plate 2. for turning the Brass Spindle by its Fork; but take care that the End of this wooden Spindle do not approach nearer to the End of the Brass Spindle than the Distance of half an Inch, left, if the inner Wreath should grow loose, the wooden Spindle might bear so hard against the Brass one, as to wrench the Seed-box down from the Wood, and then the Seed might run out betwixt the Seed-box and the Bottom to which it is screw’d.

E is the Iron Crank, placed into the false Spindle, as shown at H in Fig. 5. of Plate 2. for turning the Brass Spindle by its Fork; but make sure that the end of this wooden Spindle doesn't come closer to the end of the Brass Spindle than half an inch, or else if the inner Wreath becomes loose, the wooden Spindle might press too hard against the Brass one, causing the Seed-box to pull down from the Wood, and then the Seed could spill out between the Seed-box and the Bottom to which it is screwed.

When the hinder Side A is screw’d up against the Ends and middle Pieces, then the Box describ’d, being thrust down into the Carriage, and standing upon the describ’d Ledgers, and at that Distance from each[391] End of the Carriage, that the Seed may drop on the Side of the Funnel, as is before describ’d; the Box is kept in its Place by one Screw passing thro’ its Back, and the back Side of the Carriage.

When the back Panel A is screwed against the Ends and the middle Pieces, the described Box is pushed down into the Carriage, resting on the outlined Ledgers, and positioned at a distance from each[391] End of the Carriage so that the Seed can drop onto the Side of the Funnel, as previously described; the Box is held in place by a Screw that goes through its Back and the back Side of the Carriage.

Hollow wooden supports

The Notch F is cut in the Bottom of the hinder Side of the Carriage, up to the Bottom of the Ledger, for the Convenience of seeing the Seed drop into the Funnel.

The Notch F is cut at the bottom of the back side of the carriage, up to the bottom of the ledger, to make it easier to see the seed drop into the funnel.

The round Notch G is made in the Bottom of the fore Side of the Carriage, to make room for one’s Hand to go in there, and turn the Setting-screw without taking off the Hopper from the Standards.

The round Notch G is located at the bottom of the front side of the carriage, allowing space for your hand to fit in and turn the setting screw without needing to remove the hopper from the standards.

This Box and Carriage, so fix’d together, compose the Turnep-hopper, which is drawn and guided, and also holds up the Plough, by Two hollow Pieces of Wood screw’d on to the Outside of the fore Part of the Carriage; their Ends H and I appearing a little above the Carriage.

This box and carriage, attached together, make up the turnip hopper, which is pulled and steered, and also supports the plow, by two hollow pieces of wood screwed onto the outside of the front part of the carriage; their ends H and I sticking up slightly above the carriage.

One of these hollow Pieces of Wood is shewn in Fig. 15. The Breadth of its Hollow must conform to the Breadth of the Standards, which are One Inch and a quarter broad; but we must allow about a quarter of an Inch more in the Hollow for the Swelling of the Wood. The Depth of the Hollow must be the Thickness of the Standard that is to go in it, allowing about the Eighth of an Inch for the Swelling of the Wood. The Hollow should be a little deeper in the Middle than at each End; because the Standard ought not to bear against any thing, except at or near the upper and lower Part of the Carriage. Altho’ the End of these Pieces come a little higher than the Carriage in this Hopper, yet I think it is better that these hollow Pieces come no higher than even with the Top, nor descend any lower than even with the Bottom of the Carriage; and then the Length of each of these Pieces need be no more than Eleven Inches, which is the whole Depth of the Carriage.

One of these hollow pieces of wood is shown in Fig. 15.. The width of its hollow must match the width of the standards, which are one and a quarter inches wide; but we should allow about a quarter of an inch more in the hollow for the swelling of the wood. The depth of the hollow needs to be the thickness of the standard that will fit into it, allowing about an eighth of an inch for the swelling of the wood. The hollow should be slightly deeper in the middle than at each end because the standard shouldn't rest against anything except at or near the upper and lower parts of the carriage. Even though the ends of these pieces rise a bit higher than the carriage in this hopper, I believe it's better for these hollow pieces to be flush with the top and not drop lower than even with the bottom of the carriage; this way, each of these pieces only needs to be eleven inches long, which is the total depth of the carriage.

[392]

[392]

Carriage assembly

The Wood on each Side of the Hollow, sufficient for the Holes a, a, a, a, must be about half an inch broad. The best way for fixing them on, is whilst the Standards are in them, placing a small Piece of Wood at each Corner of the Hollow, betwixt the Standard and the Wood, to the end that there may be no more room on one Side of a Standard than on the other Side; then screw them on (parallel to and equidistant from their respective Ends of the Carriage) by Four small Screws each, the one at c, c, c, c, and the other at d, d, with Two below; the Heads of these Screws being on the Inside of the Carriage, and their Nuts on the Outsides of the hollow Pieces; then pull out those little Pieces of Wood, that were to keep the Standards in the Middle of the Hollows, whilst the Holes for the Screws were bored, and then the Turnep-Hopper is finished, and being put on upon the Standards A, B, in Fig. 16. is ready to go to Work; and in this Figure the whole Turnep-drill may be seen as in the Prospect of a Person following it at Work, except that this Figure has not the double Standard, nor Marking-wheels; because we never use them for drilling-Turneps, except it be on the Level, which we very rarely do.

The wood on each side of the hollow, needed for the holes a, a, a, a, should be about half an inch wide. The best way to attach them is while the standards are in place, by placing a small piece of wood at each corner of the hollow, between the standard and the wood, so that there’s no more space on one side of a standard than the other. Then, screw them on (parallel to and equidistant from their respective ends of the carriage) using four small screws each, one at c, c, c, c, and the other at d, d, with two below. The heads of these screws should be on the inside of the carriage, and their nuts on the outside of the hollow pieces. After that, remove the little pieces of wood that were used to keep the standards centered in the hollows while the screw holes were drilled. Then the Turnip Hopper is finished and ready to be attached to the standards A, B, in Fig. 16. to get to work. In this figure, you can see the entire turnip drill as if a person is following it while it’s in use, except that this figure doesn’t include the double standard or marking wheels, because we only use those for drilling turnips on flat ground, which is very rare.

The Circles of the Wheels of this Hopper go Twenty five Inches asunder; were they farther asunder, they would not go so well upon the Ridges; or were they nearer together, they might not hold up the Plough so steadily, but that one Wheel might happen to be rais’d from the Ground, by the descending of the opposite Limber; and if it should happen to be the Wheel that turns the Crank, no Seed would be deliver’d out whilst the Wheel was rais’d above the Ground; sometimes we use Wheels of Twenty-six Inches Diameter, sometimes Thirty, and at intermediate Diameters, with this Hopper.

The wheels of this hopper are spaced twenty-five inches apart; if they were spaced farther apart, they wouldn’t work as well on the ridges. If they were closer together, they might not support the plow steadily, and one wheel could get lifted off the ground when the opposite limber goes down. If that wheel is the one turning the crank, no seed would get delivered while it’s off the ground. Sometimes we use wheels that are twenty-six inches in diameter, sometimes thirty, and sometimes sizes in between with this hopper.

The best Wood for making all Sorts of Hoppers is Walnut-tree or Elm; our Beams and Standards we make of Ash.

The best wood for making all kinds of hoppers is walnut or elm; we use ash for our beams and posts.

Plate 5

Plate. V.

Plate. V.

P.392

P.392

B.Cole Delin et Sculp

B.Cole Delin and Sculpt

[393]

[393]

What is meant by Wood-screws, are taper Screws made with Iron, having very deep Threads, whereby they hold-fast when screwed into Wood, and their Points will enter into soft Wood without boring any Hole for them into the Wood they are to take hold of; but near their Heads they are round, and have no Thread, and that Part of them must always be in a bored Hole thro’ that Part of a Board that is to be drawn close.

What is meant by wood screws are tapered screws made of iron, with very deep threads that hold tightly when screwed into wood. Their points can penetrate soft wood without needing to bore a hole first. However, near their heads, they are round and have no threads, and that part must always be in a bored hole through the part of the board that needs to be tightened.

If the Standards should be much swollen by being wet, it may be proper to anoint them with Soap.

If the Standards get too swollen from being wet, it might be a good idea to rub them with soap.

In drilling, when the Wind is very strong, and the Hopper goes high above the Funnel, the Seed might be blown over it, if we did not take care to guard it from the Force of the Wind; and for doing this there are many Ways: Sometimes we nail a Piece of Linen Cloth round the Ends, and the fore Side of the Hopper; or else we nail on a Piece of old Hat, or Shoe-leather, round the Edges of the Funnel, to raise it higher; or if the Hopper go a great deal above the Trunk, we nail up a Pipe of Leather to the wooden Bottom of the Box, which Pipe, being about an Inch wide at Bottom, protects the Seed from the Wind, till it arrives so near the Funnel, that the Wind cannot blow it over.

In drilling, when the wind is really strong and the hopper is much higher than the funnel, the seeds could get blown away if we don’t protect them from the wind. There are several ways to do this: sometimes we attach a piece of linen cloth around the ends and the front of the hopper, or we might use a piece of old hat or shoe leather around the edges of the funnel to raise it higher. If the hopper is much higher than the trunk, we attach a leather pipe to the wooden bottom of the box. This pipe is about an inch wide at the bottom and keeps the seeds safe from the wind until they get close enough to the funnel that the wind can’t blow them away.

If we would have a long Hopper, to plant many Rows at once, of Clover or other fine Seeds, it is easy to make each of these wooden (false) Spindles turn Two or Three Brass or Iron Spindles; but then, as in all other Cases; where the same Hopper is to supply more than one Chanel with Seed, each of its Wheels must have Liberty to rise without the other, as those of the hinder Hopper of the Wheat-drill do.

If we want to have a long Hopper to plant multiple Rows at once with Clover or other good Seeds, it's simple to make each of these wooden (fake) Spindles turn Two or Three Brass or Iron Spindles. However, just like in any other situation where the same Hopper needs to provide Seed to more than one Channel, each of its Wheels must be allowed to move up independently of the others, like those on the back Hopper of the Wheat-drill do.


[394]

[394]

CHAP. 23.
Of the Hoe-Tiller, &c.

Plate 6. Fig. 1. is the Hoe-Plough in a side View. A is the Beam and Plough-tail, being much the same with that of the common Plough described in Fig. 1. of Plate 1. The Beam of such a common Plough, being cut off, and screwed up to this Plank, and its Limbers, might make a Hoe-Plough. The Share of this, from its Tail to the fore Part of its Socket, is Two Feet One Inch long, and from thence to the End of the Point, Ten Inches and an half: This is the Measure of the under Side of the Share. B is the Plank, Two Feet Seven Inches and an half long, Two Inches and an half thick, and Nine Inches broad. C, D, are the Nuts of the Two Screw-pins, which hold up the Beam to the Plank. E is the Nut of the Draw-pin, which Pin has a Crook underneath, whereto one of the Links of the short Chain of the Whipper is fastened for drawing the Plough; the only Use of this Nut is, to hold the Pin from dropping out by its own Weight, and that of the Chain and Whipper; but often, to avoid the Trouble of screwing and unscrewing the Nut, we supply its Use by a square Pin a little bigger than the Hole, which we drive up by an Hammer, so tight, that it may not drop out of itself; but can easily be driven out by a few Blows of the Hammer, as often as it is necessary to remove it into another Hole. F, G, are the Two Limbers; they are screwed on to the Plank by Four Screws and Nuts: The under Surface of the Limbers by their whole Length are parallel to the Plank, and to the upper Surface of the fore[395] End of the Beam, contrary to the manner of placing the Limbers of the Drill Ploughs; because their Planks being always parallel to the Bottom of their Shares, if their Limbers were parallel to their Beams, as these are, the fore Ends of their Limbers would not be elevated higher than the Plank, but would go within a Foot of the Ground, instead of being elevated almost as high as the Horses that draw them; and the upper and under Surfaces of this Plank must not be parallel to the Share, but must make the same Angle with it as its Limbers and Beam do.

Ptardy 6. Fig. 1. is the Hoe-Plough viewed from the side. A is the Beam and Plough-tail, which are similar to those of the common Plough described in Fig. 1. of Plate 1.. The Beam of the common Plough is cut off and screwed onto this Plank, and its Limbers, creating a Hoe-Plough. The Share measures Two Feet One Inch from its Tail to the front of its Socket, and from there to the End of the Point, it measures Ten Inches and a half. This is the measurement of the underside of the Share. B is the Plank, measuring Two Feet Seven Inches and a half long, Two Inches and a half thick, and Nine Inches wide. C, D, are the Nuts of the Two Screw-pins that hold the Beam to the Plank. E is the Nut of the Draw-pin, which has a Crook underneath, where one of the Links of the short Chain of the Whipper is attached for pulling the Plough. The purpose of this Nut is to prevent the Pin from falling out due to its own weight, along with the weight of the Chain and Whipper. However, to make it easier, we often replace the Nut with a square Pin slightly larger than the Hole, which we drive in with a Hammer so tightly that it won't fall out but can be easily removed with a few hammer blows when we need to move it to another Hole. F, G, are the Two Limbers, which are screwed onto the Plank with Four Screws and Nuts. The underside of the Limbers is parallel to the Plank and the upper Surface of the front End of the Beam, unlike the Limbers of Drill Ploughs, where their Planks are always parallel to the bottom of their Shares. If their Limbers were parallel to their Beams like these, their front Ends would not be raised higher than the Plank, but would be less than a Foot off the Ground instead of elevated almost as high as the Horses that pull them. The upper and underside of this Plank must not be parallel to the Share; they must form the same angle with it as the Limbers and Beam do.

Hoe plough complete

These Limbers ought to crook outwards from each other all the Way, till they come within about a Foot of the Chain, much more than the Drill-Limbers need to do; because the Middle of the Plank of the Drill follows directly after the Horse, but the Middle of the Plank of the Hoe-Plough very seldom does; and therefore there must be the more room betwixt these Limbers. Likewise there must be the more room betwixt the fore Part of the Limbers, because oftentimes the right Limber must be raised, and the left depressed, in holding the Plough towards the left Side (for if it should be held towards the right Side, the Share would go upon the Fin, and its Point be raised out of the Ground, unless it were on a Surface that had a Declivity towards the Right). The Distance between the fore Ends of these Limbers is Two Feet Eight Inches.

These Limbers should bend outwards from each other all the way until they are about a foot away from the Chain, much more than the Drill-Limbers need to. This is because the middle of the Plank of the Drill follows directly behind the Horse, but the middle of the Plank of the Hoe-Plough rarely aligns that way; therefore, there needs to be more space between these Limbers. Additionally, there must be more space between the front part of the Limbers because often the right Limber has to be raised while the left is lowered to steer the Plough towards the left side (if it's held towards the right side, the Share would hit the Fin and its point would lift out of the ground, unless it's on a surface that slopes to the right). The distance between the front ends of these Limbers is two feet eight inches.

The Strength and Stiffness of these Limbers must be such, that there may be no Bending betwixt their fore Ends and the Tail of the Beam; for if they be too weak, so as to yield to the Weight of the Furrow, the Point of the Share will descend into the Ground, and its Tail will rise up, and then the Plough cannot go well. The shorter they are, the stronger and stiffer will they be, of the same Thickness. We may make them just of such a Length, that there may be room for the Horse before the Bar H (which holds the Limbers at their due Distance). These are from[396] their Ends to the Bar, Four Feet Ten Inches long and from thence to the Plank Ten Inches, and Three Inches and an half square at the Bar.

The strength and stiffness of these limbers must be such that there is no bending between their front ends and the tail of the beam. If they are too weak and give under the weight of the furrow, the point of the share will sink into the ground, and its tail will lift up, causing the plow to not function properly. The shorter they are, the stronger and stiffer they will be, given the same thickness. We can make them just long enough to allow space for the horse in front of the bar H (which keeps the limbers at the right distance). These are from[396] their ends to the bar, four feet ten inches long, and from there to the plank, ten inches, and three and a half inches square at the bar.

I is the Whipper. K, L, are its Notches, whereunto the Traces both of the Thiller, and of the Horse next before him, are fastened. The Length of the Whipper is uncertain; but when we hoe betwixt Rows, when the Plants are grown high, we make it as short as it can be, without galling the Horse’s Legs by the Traces.

I am the Whipper. K and L are its Notches, where the Traces of both the Thiller and the Horse in front are attached. The length of the Whipper can vary, but when we hoe between the Rows and the Plants are tall, we adjust it to be as short as possible without causing discomfort to the Horse's legs from the Traces.

We set this Plough to go deeper or shallower by the Chain of the Limbers; the changing of whose Links to the Crook M has the same Effect as changeing the Pins to different Holes of the Crow-staves of a common Plough.

We adjust this Plough to go deeper or shallower by the Chain of the Limbers; changing its Links to the Crook M has the same effect as moving the Pins to different Holes of the Crow-staves of a regular Plough.

Beam

Fig. 2. is the Beam with its Mortise and Holes; its Crooking down at the Tail is not very material; but it causes the hinder Sheat to be a little the shorter below the Beam, whereby it may be something the lighter, and yet of the same Strength as if it were longer. Its whole Length is Four Feet Ten Inches: We make its Breadth and Thickness such, that it may be as light as it can be without Bending. A is the Mortise thro’ which the hinder Sheat passes. B is the Mortise for the fore Sheat, upon which it is pinned up. C is a Hole in the Beam, into which the End of the left Handle being driven, holds it from moving, and is the best Manner of fastening this Handle of a Plough. D, E, are the Holes, thro’ which the Two Legs of the double Retch pass, and are there held up by their Nuts. F is the Coulter-hole. G is the hinder Hole, by which the Plough is held up to the Plank. H and I are the Two foremost Holes of the Beam, thro’ one or the other of which passes the Pin which holds the Beam to the fore Part of the Plank. These Holes must be made as near together as they can be, without Danger of splitting them one into another; to prevent which there are several Ways: The one is by driving in Two square Pins cross the Beam, under[397] the pricked Line a b, before the Holes are bored, which will prevent the Grain of the Wood from being forced out of one Hole into the other; or these Holes may be plated with Iron above and below, which will have the same Effect, and then there need not be more than One Inch between Hole and Hole.

Fig. 2. is the beam with its mortise and holes. The slight curve at the tail isn’t very important, but it does make the back sheet a bit shorter below the beam, which might make it slightly lighter, while still being just as strong as if it were longer. Its total length is four feet ten inches. We adjust its width and thickness to make it as light as possible without bending. A is the mortise through which the back sheet passes. B is the mortise for the front sheet, which it is pinned to. C is a hole in the beam where the end of the left handle is inserted, keeping it in place, and it’s the best way to secure this handle on a plow. D and E are the holes through which the legs of the double retch pass, held up by nuts. F is the coulter hole. G is the back hole that supports the plow to the plank. H and I are the two front holes of the beam, through one or the other of which passes the pin that attaches the beam to the front part of the plank. These holes should be as close together as possible without risking them splitting into each other; to prevent this, there are several methods: one is to drive two square pins across the beam, beneath the marked line a b, before the holes are bored, which will stop the wood grain from being pushed out of one hole into the other; alternatively, these holes can be reinforced with iron plates above and below, achieving the same effect, in which case there can be only an inch between each hole.

Plank with holes

Fig. 3. is the Plank apart, which by its Holes, and pricked Lines, shews the different Manner of placing the Beam. a, a, a, a, are the Four Holes for screwing down the Limbers to the Plank.

Fig. 3. is the plank set apart, which shows the different ways to position the beam through its holes and marked lines. a, a, a, a, are the four holes for securing the limbers to the plank.

Supposing the Path of the Horse to be a strait Line, and the pricked Line h i (which is at right Angles with the Plank, and equidistant from each Limber) to go exactly over it, without making any Angle on either Side of it; then the Beam must be placed at right Angles with the Plank, to the End that the Share may go parallel to the Horse-path, excepting that very small Inclination that its Point has to the left, shewn by the pricked Lines in Fig. 1. of Plate 1. But this Plough seldom follows the Horse in that manner. The said pricked Line h i generally makes Angles with the Horse-path; else when the Beam stood near the left Limber, and the Draw-pin near the right Limber in the Hole 9. (which it must do to keep the Share parallel to the Horse-path) the Weight of the right End of the Plank and its Limber would be too heavy for the right Hand of the Holder to manage; and if the Draw-pin be removed (suppose) to Hole 7. the Parallelism of the Share with the Horse-path will be lost, and the Point of the Share may be inclined too much towards the Left; and when a Furrow is to be plowed on the right Side of the Horse-path, the Beam must be removed nearer to the Middle of the Plank, and the Draw-pin must be placed on the left Side of the Beam, suppose to the Hole 2. This will bring the greatest Part of the Plank to the right Side of the Horse-path; and then the Share, standing at right Angles with the Plank, will make a very large[398] Angle with the Horse-path, and then the Plough will not perform at all. Therefore it being necessary, that the Share always go parallel to the Horse-path, and often as necessary that the Plank go at oblique Angles to the Horse-path; it follows then that the Beam stand at oblique Angles with the Plank, to preserve the Parallelism to the Horse-path; and this cannot be done but by the Holes which are shewn under the pricked Lines which cross the Plank.

Assuming the Path of the Horse is a straight line, and the dotted line h i (which is perpendicular to the plank and equally distant from each side) goes directly over it without making any angle on either side, then the beam must be positioned at right angles to the plank, so that the share runs parallel to the horse path, except for the slight tilt of its point to the left, indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 1. of Plate 1.. However, this plow rarely follows the horse in that way. The mentioned dotted line h i usually forms angles with the path. If the beam is near the left limber and the drawpin is at the right limber in hole 9 (which it needs to be to keep the share parallel to the horse path), the weight of the plank's right end and its limber would be too heavy for the right hand of the holder to control. If the drawpin is moved (say) to hole 7, the share will no longer be parallel to the horse path, and the point of the share might tilt too much to the left. When a furrow needs to be plowed on the right side of the horse path, the beam must be moved closer to the center of the plank, and the drawpin must be placed on the left side of the beam, for instance to hole 2. This will shift most of the plank to the right side of the horse path; consequently, with the share at right angles to the plank, it will create a very large angle with the horse path, and the plow won't work at all. Therefore, since it’s necessary for the share to always run parallel to the horse path, and often necessary for the plank to be at oblique angles to the horse path, it follows that the beam must also stand at oblique angles to the plank to maintain that parallelism to the horse path; and this can only be achieved with the holes shown beneath the dotted lines crossing the plank.

The Holes A, B, C, are those to one of which the Beam is screwed up by its Hole G, in Fig. 2. These Holes are made as near to the hinder Edge of the Plank, as they can safely be, without Danger of tearing out; which is generally about an Inch distant from the said Edge.

The Holes A, B, C are the ones where the Beam is secured through Hole G, in Fig. 2.. These Holes are drilled as close to the back Edge of the Plank as possible, without risking tearing out; which is usually about an Inch away from that Edge.

Every one of these Holes are answered by Three others, near the fore Edge of the Plank, as the Hole B has, at the fore Edge of the Plank, the Holes D, E, F, D, E belong to the Hole I of the Beam Fig. 2. These Two Holes are made as near together as they can be without breaking into one another. F answers the Hole H in Fig. 2. and is made between D and E, as near them as safely it can.

Every one of these holes is matched by three others near the front edge of the plank, similar to how hole B relates to the front edge of the plank, with holes D, E, and F. Holes D and E correspond to hole I of the beam. These two holes are placed as closely together as possible without interfering with each other. Hole F corresponds to hole H in Fig. 2. and is positioned between D and E, as close to them as it can be done safely.

When the Beam is screwed up at B and F, and makes the same Angles with the Plank, as the pricked Line b c doth; then the Draw-pin standing in the Hole 8 or 9, will bring the Plough so much to the Left, that the Share will point too much towards the Right; then remove the fore End of the Beam to the Hole D, and then the Beam will make the same Angle with the Plank as the pricked Line c d, which may bring the Share to be parallel to the Horse-path nearly enough: But if the Draw-pin should be placed in the Hole 1. then the Plank would go so much on the Right of the Horse-path, that the Share would point vastly too much towards the Left, standing in either of these Two Positions: Therefore the foremost Pin must be removed to the Hole E, and then the Beam[399] being at the same Angles with the Plank as the pricked Line f g, it may be parallel to the Horse-path, or so nearly, that by removing the Draw-pin one Hole, it may be made perfectly so.

When the beam is secured at B and F and creates the same angles with the plank as the marked line b c, the draw-pin in hole 8 or 9 will shift the plow to the left, causing the share to point too much to the right. To fix this, move the front end of the beam to hole D, which will align the beam with the plank at the same angle as the marked line c d, helping the share become nearly parallel to the horse path. However, if the draw-pin is placed in hole 1, the plank will shift too far to the right of the horse path, making the share point excessively to the left in either of those two positions. Therefore, the front pin must be moved to hole E, and then the beam will have the same angle with the plank as the marked line f g, making it nearly parallel to the horse path, and by adjusting the draw-pin one hole, it can be made perfectly parallel.

Note, That tho’ here are but Nine Holes for the Draw-pin; yet we usually make many more in our Planks: And sometimes by changing the Draw-pin either Way into another Hole, tho’ that Hole be but an Inch distant from the former, the Share is brought right without any Inconvenience.

Note, that although there are only nine holes for the draw-pin, we usually create many more in our boards. And sometimes by moving the draw-pin to another hole, even if that hole is just an inch away from the previous one, the share is adjusted correctly without any issues.

The Holes A and C have each of them their opposite Holes, which (when the Beam is placed into either of the Two) have the same Effect, for keeping the Share parallel to the Horse-path, as the Hole B and its Three opposite Holes have; and if either of the Holes belonging to A, B, or C, should not bring the Beam sufficiently oblique to the Plank, for the Share to be parallel to the Horse-path, when the Draw-pin is in some one particular Hole, then there may be another Hole bored before, on the Right or Left, for the fore Pin to pass thro’ by the Hole H of the Beam Fig. 2. which will incline the Beam a little more to the Right or Left, as occasion requires; and if none of all these be sufficient, the Plank may be turned the other Side upwards; and the Beam being fastened there by the hinder Screw into any one of those Holes, which were next to the fore Edge of the Plank before it was reversed, there may be a new Set of Holes to answer the fore Pin, of which that which was an hinder Hole before the Plank was reversed, may be one. These may set the Beam at different Angles from any of the first Holes; so that there may be at one End of the Plank Six Systems of Holes, Three on the one Side, and Three on the other; and if we have a mind to make yet more various Positions of the Plough, we may turn the Plank, End for End, and there make Six different Systems of Holes.

The Holes A and C each have their opposite Holes, which, when the Beam is placed into either of the two, create the same effect of keeping the Share parallel to the Horse-path as Hole B and its three opposite Holes do. If any of the Holes associated with A, B, or C doesn’t position the Beam at the right angle for the Share to be parallel to the Horse-path when the Draw-pin is in a specific Hole, then another Hole can be bored in front, on the Right or Left, for the fore Pin to pass through the Hole H of the Beam Fig. 2. which will tilt the Beam slightly more to the Right or Left, as needed. If none of these are enough, the Plank can be flipped upside down; by fastening the Beam there with the rear Screw into any of those Holes that were next to the front Edge of the Plank before it was flipped, a new set of Holes can align with the fore Pin, including one that was a rear Hole before the Plank was flipped. These can position the Beam at different Angles from the original Holes, so there can be six systems of Holes at one End of the Plank, three on one side and three on the other. If we want even more varied positions for the Plow, we can turn the Plank end for end, creating six different systems of Holes there.

[400]

[400]

But, instead of turning the Plank, it would be better to have a Fourth Hole in the Beam, standing as near to the hinder Hole as H doth to the fore Hole; to answer which Fourth Hole, there may be Two Holes in the Plank, one at each Side of the hinder Hole of every System at proper Distances, to set the Plough still at more different Angles with the Plank; and these, I believe, will be more convenient for the Purpose than the different Holes in the fore Part of the Plank, it being easier to remove the hinder Screw than the fore Screw; because if the Plank and Limbers are not held up by somebody, whilst the fore Pin is out, their Weight will wrench out the hinder Hole of the Plank by that Screw; but whilst the hinder Screw is out, there is no need of holding up the Plank, because its Weight, bearing upon the Beam, cannot injure the foremost Hole, whilst the Limbers bear upon the Horse. Upon this account, I wonder we had not made the Holes, for changing the Position of the Beam, at the hinder Part of the Plank rather than the fore Part; which convinces me, that new Instruments are seldom perfect in the Beginning.

But instead of turning the plank, it would be better to add a fourth hole in the beam, positioned close to the back hole just like the front hole is. To accommodate this fourth hole, there could be two holes in the plank—one on each side of the back hole in each system—at proper distances, allowing the plow to be set at even more angles with the plank. I believe this will be more convenient than having different holes at the front part of the plank because it’s easier to remove the back screw than the front screw. If no one is holding the plank and limbers while the front pin is out, their weight can pull out the back hole of the plank by that screw. However, when the back screw is out, there’s no need to hold the plank up because its weight resting on the beam won't damage the front hole while the limbers rest on the horse. For this reason, I’m surprised we didn’t make the holes for adjusting the position of the beam at the back of the plank rather than the front; this shows me that new tools are rarely perfect from the start.

We can also alter the Standing of the Beam, by cutting away the Wood on one Side of an Hole, and placing a Wedge on the opposite Side of the Pin.

We can also change the position of the beam by cutting away the wood on one side of a hole and placing a wedge on the opposite side of the pin.

The Holder may make some Alteration in the Going of the Plough by the Handles.

The Holder can make some changes to how the Plough operates using the Handles.

The Reason we never set the Beam on the right Half of the Plank is, that the Plough always turns its Furrow towards the Right-hand; and the strait Side of the Share and the Coulter never go so near to a Row on the Right-hand, by the Breadth of Two Furrows, as it does to a Row on the Left-hand.

The reason we never set the beam on the right half of the plank is that the plow always turns its furrow to the right. The straight side of the share and the coulter never get as close to a row on the right as they do to a row on the left, by the width of two furrows.

If by the Drawing of the fore Horse or Horses, the Plough should bear too hard upon the Thiller, it may be helped by making a Row of Holes near the hinder Side of the Plank, for the Draw-pin, instead[401] of those in the Middle; for the farther backwards the Draw-pin is plac’d, the less will the Limbers bear on the Thiller, especially when drawn by more Horses than one; because the fore Horses draw the Limbers more downwards than the Thiller doth, as may be seen in Fig. 4.

If the front horse or horses pull too hard on the plow, causing it to put too much pressure on the thiller, you can fix this by creating a row of holes closer to the back side of the plank for the drawpin, instead of using the ones in the middle. The further back the drawpin is placed, the less pressure the limbers will put on the thiller, especially when more than one horse is pulling. This is because the front horses pull the limbers more downwards than the thiller does, as illustrated in Fig. 4.[401]

Hoe plough with draught horses

Fig. 4. shews the manner how the Hoe-plough is drawn, and how the Traces are fix’d to it. The Traces of both Horses are fastened to the Notches of the Ends of the Whipper at a and b. The Traces of the Thiller by their fore Part are fastened to an Hook, or Ring, on the Wood of the Collar, as is usual for other Thillers; and the fore Part of the next Horse’s Traces is fastened to his Collar in like manner; but these Traces, being twice as long as those of the Thiller, must be held up in the Middle by a Piece of Cord or Chain, as at c, where one End of it is fastened to the Trace, and passes over the Top of the Collar, behind one of the Hames, and before the other to keep it from slipping backwards or forwards; its other End is fastened to the opposite Trace on the other Side, as this End is at c. This prevents the Chain from falling down, and getting under the Horse’s Legs in turning; but beware that this String or Chain be not so short as to hold up the Traces higher than their strait Line; for that would press upon the Collar, and gall the Thiller, besides occasioning the Plough to be drawn too much upwards; for this drawing of the fore Horse by a different Line from that of the Thiller, is a great Advantage for keeping the Plough the firmer into the Ground.

Fig. 4. shows how the hoe-plow is pulled and how the traces are attached to it. The traces of both horses are connected to the notches at the ends of the whipper at a and b. The traces for the thiller are fastened at the front to a hook or ring on the wood of the collar, as is usual for other thrillers; similarly, the front part of the next horse's traces is attached to its collar. However, these traces are twice as long as those of the thiller, so they need to be supported in the middle by a piece of cord or chain, as at c. One end of this cord is attached to the trace and passes over the top of the collar, behind one of the hames and in front of the other to prevent slipping backward or forward; the other end is secured to the opposite trace on the other side, as shown at c. This keeps the chain from falling down and getting under the horse's legs while turning. But be careful that this cord or chain isn’t so short that it lifts the traces higher than their straight line, as that would press on the collar, irritate the thiller, and cause the plow to be drawn too much upwards. Pulling the front horse by a different line from that of the thiller greatly helps keep the plow steadier in the ground.

If there is another Horse, his Traces are fastened at the Collar of the Second, in the same manner as in drawing of a Waggon.

If there's another horse, its traces are attached to the collar of the second one, just like when pulling a wagon.

When we hoe betwixt Rows, where the Plants are very high, as those of Turnep-seed, which are much higher than the Horses, to turn a new Furrow up to the Row, when there is a Trench in the Middle of the Interval, where the Horses must go, we find it best[402] to place the Beam by the Holes B and E, in Fig. 3. and the Draw-pin near the left Limber, which brings the Tail of the Plough to the Right-hand, and the fore Ends of the Limbers being towards the Left, the End of the right Limber (by turning the Handles a little to the Left) bears against the wooden Saddle at d, and cannot hitch into or take hold of any of the Plants to tear them. And that no Part of the Limber may take hold of any Plant, we make it very smooth from one End to the other; and cut off the Corner of the Plank equal with the Limber, that the Plants may slip by it without hanging in it, or being broken by it. The Whipper standing towards the left End of the Plank, its End b does not reach so far towards the right as to take hold of the Plants, its End a being over the Interval, where no Plants are; and to keep its right End the more out of Danger of hurting the Plants, we place the Hook of its Chain nearer towards this End, by which means the left End, becoming heavier, sinks lower, and raises the right End higher; and the higher it is, the more secure the Plants will be from it; because they are held off by the Limber above.

When we hoe between rows where the plants are quite tall, like those from turnip seeds, which are taller than the horses, we find it best to adjust the beam at holes B and E in Fig. 3., and place the drawpin near the left limber. This setup directs the back of the plow to the right, while the front ends of the limbers point left. By slightly turning the handles to the left, the end of the right limber presses against the wooden saddle at d, ensuring it doesn't snag or damage any plants. To prevent any part of the limber from catching on the plants, we smooth it out entirely from end to end and trim the corner of the plank to align with the limber, allowing the plants to pass by without getting stuck or broken. The whipper stands at the left end of the plank; its end b doesn’t reach far enough to disturb the plants, since its end a hovers over the gap where there are no plants. To keep the right end farther from harming the plants, we position the hook of its chain closer to this end. This makes the left end heavier, which lowers it and raises the right end higher. The higher it is, the less likely it is to affect the plants because they are kept clear by the limber above.

This way my Turnep-seed has been ho’d, when one would have thought it impossible for a Plough and Horses to go betwixt the Rows without destroying the Crop. Almost in this manner we give our Wheat the last Hoeing, to turn the Furrow a Second time towards the Row. When the Plants of the Rows are very high, the Driver must go in the next Interval, on the Left of the Plough; and the Holder has a Cord, like the Reins of a Bridle, which he lays over the End of the Draw-pin, which keeps it from falling down, until he has occasion to use it for guiding or turning the Thiller.

This is how my turnip seeds have been hoed, when you would think it impossible for a plow and horses to fit between the rows without damaging the crop. We almost do the same with our wheat during the final hoeing, turning the furrow back toward the row a second time. When the plants in the rows are very tall, the driver must go in the next gap, to the left of the plow; and the holder has a cord, similar to the reins of a bridle, which he places over the end of the drawpin to keep it from falling down until he needs it for guiding or turning the tiller.

When we turn the Furrow from the Row (which will then be ever on the left Side of the Plough), the Plough must be set in a very different and contrary[403] Posture; but then the Plants commonly being low, there is no Danger of the Whipper’s or Limber’s hitching or taking hold of them; but the Driver must take care, that he does not tread on them, nor suffer any of the Horses to do so; and they of themselves, when they are not blind, take all the Care they can to avoid it; and I observe, that the Plants are oftener injured by the Driver, than by the Horses.

When we turn the furrow from the row (which will then always be on the left side of the plow), the plow needs to be positioned very differently. However, since the plants are usually low, there's no risk of the whipper or limber snagging them; but the driver must make sure he doesn't step on them and doesn't allow any of the horses to do so either. The horses, when not blind, do their best to avoid it. I notice that the plants get damaged more often by the driver than by the horses.

’Tis in this last-mentioned manner of Hoeing, when we go very near to the young Plants, the First or Second time, that we must take care of burying them with the Earth, which (especially when dry and fine) is apt to run over to the left Side of the Plough; this we can in great measure prevent, when the Ground is clean, by nailing with Three or Four Nails a very thin square Piece of Board to the Sheat, with one Corner bearing at, or below, a, in Fig. 1. and its other lower Corner bearing on the Back of the Coulter on its left Side at b, its upper Corner reaching to c or higher; its fore End is ty’d on to the Coulter by a leathern Thong passing thro’ an Hole very near the End of the Board. The lower Edge of the Board must come no lower than the prick’d Line a, b, which, at b, is just even with the Surface of the Ground, before it is rais’d by the Share; for if this Board should be set down too near the Share, the Plough would not go; but, being set in this manner, it prevents the Earth (when never so much pulveriz’d in the driest Weather) from running over upon the Plants to bury them, tho’ the Plough go very near them; except in this case, we never use a Board, the Earth running over to the left Side, being often advantageous in Hoeing; for it changes more Surface of the Ground, than if it went all to the right; and when in Summer we hoe from the Wheat-rows, not going very near to the grown Plants, this Earth that runs over the Share to the Left, helps to mend such Places where the Furrow[404] was not thrown up close enough to the Row by the precedent Hoeing.

In this last method of hoeing, when we get very close to the young plants, either the first or second time, we need to be careful not to bury them with soil, which (especially when it's dry and fine) tends to pile up to the left side of the plow. We can mostly prevent this, as long as the ground is clear, by nailing a very thin square piece of board to the sheath with three or four nails, positioning one corner at or below a in Fig. 1. and the other lower corner resting on the back of the coulter on its left side at b, with its upper corner reaching to c or higher. The front end is tied to the coulter with a leather thong passing through a hole near the end of the board. The bottom edge of the board should not go below the marked line a, b, which is even with the surface of the ground before it is raised by the share; if this board is placed too close to the share, the plow won't work. However, if it’s set up this way, it prevents the soil (no matter how finely broken up in dry weather) from covering the plants while plowing near them. In this case, we don't use a board, as the soil running to the left side can often be beneficial for hoeing; it turns over more surface area than if it all went to the right. When we hoe in summer from the wheat rows and don't go too close to the mature plants, the soil that runs over the share to the left helps to fill in areas where the furrow wasn’t close enough to the row from the previous hoeing.

The first time we turn a Furrow towards the Row, the Horses go in the Trench near to it, and the Plough stands on the left Side of the Horse-path, almost in the same manner as when the Furrow is turn’d from the Row; but we very often make use of a common Plough, for throwing down the Ridge, which has lain all the Winter in the Middle of the Interval. One Wheel, going on each Side of that Ridge, holds that Plough to a great Exactness for splitting this Ridge into Halves, which the Earth-board, being set out for that Purpose, throws up to the Row on each Side of the Interval.

The first time we turn a furrow towards the row, the horses go into the trench next to it, and the plow is positioned on the left side of the horse path, almost the same way as when the furrow is turned away from the row. However, we often use a standard plow to break down the ridge that has been sitting in the middle of the space all winter. One wheel, positioned on each side of that ridge, keeps the plow steady to accurately split the ridge in half, while the earth board, designed for that purpose, lifts the soil up to the row on each side of the space.

We also very often make use of the Two-wheel’d Plough, for raising up the Ridges, whereon we drill the Rows; not but that the Hoe-Plough will do every thing that is necessary to our Husbandry: Yet the common Ploughs being heavier than we usually make our Hoe-Ploughs, they by their Weight, and Help of their Wheels go a little steadier: and besides the Ploughmen, being more accustom’d to them, prefer them before all other, where their Wheels are of no Prejudice.

We often use the two-wheeled plow to create the ridges for planting our rows. The hoe plow can accomplish everything we need for our farming, but because regular plows are heavier than our hoe plows, they work a bit more steadily thanks to their weight and wheels. Also, since plowmen are more used to them, they prefer them over all others when their wheels don't cause any issues.

I never saw neater Ridges rais’d by any Plough, than by the Hoe-Plough, nor finer Plowing; and I believe that were it made as heavy, and as strong, it would outdo the Swing-Plough, in plowing miry Clays, where Plough-wheels cannot go; but I, haveing no such Land, have never made any Hoe-Plough heavy enough for it. However, I am convinc’d, by the many Trials which I have seen, that no other Plough can be used for every Horse-hoeing Operation, so effectually as this I have now describ’d.

I’ve never seen cleaner ridges made by any plow than by the hoe plow, nor better plowing. I believe that if it were made heavier and stronger, it would outperform the swing plow in muddy clay where plow wheels can’t go. However, I haven’t worked with that type of land, so I’ve never made a hoe plow heavy enough for it. Still, I’m convinced, based on the many trials I’ve witnessed, that no other plow can be used as effectively for every horse-hoeing task as the one I’ve just described.

The making the Hoe-plough is not difficult for a good Workman; and a few of the Holes for setting the Beam are sufficient, provided they are made in their proper Places, which is impossible for me to describe exactly in a Number that is no more than[405] necessary; because the Distance the Plough must go from the Horse-path on either Side, is uncertain, as the Largeness or the Depth of the Furrow is; and for that Reason, it is as impossible for me direct the Ploughman to the particular Angles, at which his Beam must be set with the Plank, to keep the Share parallel to the Horse-path, as it is to direct a Fidler, how far he must turn his Pegs to give his Strings their due Tension for bringing them all in Tune, which without a Peg to each String could never be done; but when he has his just Number of Pegs, his Ear will direct him in turning them, till his Fiddle is in Tune; so the Ploughman by his Eyes, his Feeling, and his Reason, must be directed in the setting his Plough; but without a competent Number of Holes, he can no more do it than a Musician can tune Four Strings upon one Peg. And I am told, that some Pretenders to making the Hoe-Plough have fix’d its Beam to the Plank immoveable, which makes it as useless for hoeing betwixt Rows, as a Violin with but one Peg to its Four Strings would be for playing a Sonata.

Making a hoe-plough isn't hard for a skilled worker; just a few holes for attaching the beam are enough, as long as they're in the right spots. It’s impossible for me to give an exact number that's less than[405], because the distance the plough needs to stay from the horse path on either side depends on how wide or deep the furrow is. For that reason, I can’t specify the exact angles at which the beam should be set with the plank to keep the share parallel to the horse path, just like I can’t tell a fiddler how much to turn his pegs to get his strings in perfect tune without having a peg for each string. But once he has the right number of pegs, his ear will tell him how to adjust them until the fiddle is in tune. In the same way, the ploughman has to use his eyes, touch, and reasoning to set the plough properly, but without enough holes, he can’t do it any more than a musician can tune four strings on one peg. I’ve heard that some people trying to make hoe-ploughs have fixed the beam to the plank, which makes it just as useless for hoeing between rows as a violin with only one peg for four strings would be for playing a Sonata.

Yoke

Fig. 5. shews the Sort of Yoke, that is us’d on every Ox that draws in a single File, as they always must when they work with the Hoe-plough; but after they have been accustom’d to draw double (i. e. Two abreast) they must be practis’d for about a Week to draw single, before they are set to Hoeing; for otherwise they will be apt to demolish the Rows, one running off to the right-hand, expecting his Fellow to come up with him on the Left, and another will run off on the Left to make room for his Companion to go abreast with him on the Right, endeavouring to go in the manner in which they us’d to be placed for drawing in Pairs.

Fig. 5. shows the type of yoke used on every ox that works in a single file, as they always must when working with the hoe plow. However, once they’ve been trained to work in pairs (i.e., two side by side), they need to practice for about a week to work solo before they start hoeing. Otherwise, they'll likely disrupt the rows, with one going off to the right, expecting his partner to follow him on the left, while the other veers to the left to make space for his companion on the right, trying to move as they did when they were used to working in pairs.

I suppose I need not give any Caution about muzling the Oxen when they hoe; because they will eat the Plants as soon as they come an Inch above the[406] Ground, and that will shew the Necessity of it; but there is no occasion to muzzle the Horses until the Plants are grown as high as their Noses, when rein’d up, as in Fig. 4.

I guess I don’t need to warn you about muzzling the oxen when they’re plowing; they’ll eat the plants as soon as they’re even an inch above the[406] ground, and that will show why it’s necessary. However, there’s no need to muzzle the horses until the plants are as high as their noses when they’re reined in, like in Fig. 4.

Narrow roller

Fig. 6. is an Instrument of Pulveration, which might have been sufficiently describ’d by its Matter, Weight and Dimensions, without any Portrait, were it not to shew the particular Manner of drawing it, being very different from that of a common Roller, whose Frame is difficult to make, and costly; but this, being only Three Feet long, is drawn by a simple Pair of Limbers, held together, by the Two Bars A and B, firmly pinn’d in at their Ends.

Fig. 6. is a Pulverization Tool, which could have been adequately described by its material, weight, and size without a picture, if not for the need to illustrate how it's used, which differs significantly from a standard roller. A common roller has a complex and expensive frame, but this one, being only three feet long, is pulled by a simple pair of shafts, kept together by the two bars A and B, which are securely pinned at their ends.

Its Gudgeons must not come out beyond the outer Surface of the Limbers, lest they should take hold of the Plants, when drawn in the Intervals; also the hinder Ends of the Limbers, behind the Gudgeon, should crook a little upwards, for the same Reason.

Its Gudgeons shouldn’t extend beyond the outer surface of the Limbers, so they don’t get stuck on the Plants when pulled in during the intervals; also, the back ends of the Limbers, behind the Gudgeon, should curve slightly upward for the same reason.

This Stone Cylinder is Two Feet and an half Diameter, and weighs Eleven hundred Weight besides the Limbers. It must never be us’d but in the driest Weather, when neither the Plough nor Harrow can break the Clods; and then being so very ponderous and short, it crushes them to Powder, or into such very small Pieces, that a very little Rain, or even the Dews (if plentiful), will dissolve them.

This Stone Cylinder is two and a half feet in diameter and weighs 1,100 pounds, not including the wheels. It should only be used in the driest weather, when neither the plow nor the harrow can break up the clods. When it's used, it's so heavy and compact that it grinds them into powder or tiny pieces, which can easily dissolve with a bit of rain or even when there's a lot of dew.

I have had great Benefit by this Roller in preparing my Ridges for Turneps. The Weather proving dry at Midsummer (which is the best Season for planting them), the Land was in Pieces like Horse-heads, so that there was no Hope of reducing them fit for planting with Turneps that Year; the Clods being so very large, that they would require so many Vicissitudes of wet and dry Weather to slack them; but this Instrument crush’d them small, and the Plough following it immediately, the Ridges were harrow’d and drill’d with very good Success.

I have greatly benefited from this roller in preparing my rows for turnips. The weather turned dry at Midsummer (which is the best time for planting them), and the land was in clumps like horse heads, making it hopeless to get them ready for planting turnips that year; the clods were so large that they'd need many cycles of wet and dry weather to break them down. However, this tool crushed them into smaller pieces, and with the plow immediately following it, the rows were harrowed and planted with great success.

[407]

[407]

I have also made use of it for the same Purpose in the Middle of a cloddy Field, where it pulveriz’d the Clods so effectually, that the Benefit of it might be plainly distinguish’d by the Colour and Strength of the Two following Crops, different from the other Parts of the Field adjoining on both Sides, whereon the Roller was not drawn.

I have also used it for the same purpose in the middle of a clumpy field, where it broke up the clumps so effectively that the benefits were clearly visible in the color and strength of the two following crops, which were different from the other sections of the field on both sides where the roller was not used.

But crushing has such a contrary Effect from squeezing, that if this Roller should be us’d when the Land is moist, it would be very pernicious, by unpulverizing it; of which I am so cautious, that sometimes I let the Roller lie still for a whole Year together.

But crushing has such an opposite effect from squeezing that if this roller is used when the land is damp, it could be really harmful by compacting it back together; I'm so careful about this that sometimes I leave the roller unused for an entire year.

There is also a long triangular Harrow, which is sometimes useful in the Intervals when the Earth is of a right Temper betwixt wet and dry; but there is no need to describe it, and I scarce use it once in Two or Three Years.

There’s also a long triangular harrow, which can be useful during the gaps when the soil is just the right balance between wet and dry; however, there’s no need to go into details about it, and I hardly use it once every two or three years.

The Diameters of the wooden and iron Pins and Screws, with their Holes, and the Sizes of the Nails to be made use of in all the describ’d Instruments, I leave to the Discretion of the Workmen, who, if they are Masters of their several Trades, cannot be ignorant of such Matters.

The sizes of the wooden and iron pins and screws, along with their holes, and the sizes of the nails to be used in all the described instruments, I leave to the judgment of the workers, who, if they are skilled in their respective trades, should be knowledgeable about these things.

Fig. 7. and Fig. 8. shew the Lands of Turneps mention’d at the Beginning of this Work.

Fig. 7. and Fig. 8. show the lands of turnips mentioned at the beginning of this work.


[408]

[408]

AN
APPENDIX
REGARDING

The making of the Drill down,
and the Hoe Plow, &c.

Capital TTo a Workman, who would make these Instruments, I would add the following Directions.

Capital TTo a craftsman who wants to create these tools, I would include the following instructions.

The First thing to be done for making the Drill, is to place half a Sheet of Paper to the Back of Plate 2. by pasting it on to its Margin; and likewise another half Sheet to Plate 3. in the same manner.

The first thing to do to make the drill is to stick half a sheet of paper to the back of Plate 2. by pasting it onto its margin; and also to do the same with another half sheet on Plate 3..

Then with a Needle prick through all the Out-lines of A, B, C, and D, in Fig. 2. which will mark out both Sides, and both Ends of the Mortise of the Turnep Drill-box. Also prick through the Out-lines of the great Hole in the middle of A, and of the elliptical Hole in B. Also prick the little Hole at E, in A; and at F, in B. Prick through the prick’d Line p q, in B; which is the Line to which the Setting-screw Fig. 6. or Fig. 12. that is to pass through the Hole in C, must be parallel.

Then with a needle, poke through all the outlines of A, B, C, and D, in Fig. 2., which will mark both sides and both ends of the mortise of the turnip drill box. Also, poke through the outlines of the large hole in the center of A, and the elliptical hole in B. Additionally, poke the small hole at E in A, and at F in B. Poke through the marked line p q in B; this is the line to which the setting screw Fig. 6. or Fig. 12. that will go through the hole in C must be parallel.

When the Paper is taken off, cut out of it the said A, B, C, and D, by the Pricks made by the Needle.

When you remove the paper, cut out the mentioned A, B, C, and D, using the marks made by the needle.

Then cut the same in Pastboard, by laying these Pieces of Paper thereon (because Pastboard, being stiffer[409] than Paper, will be more fit for the Use). Draw a Line with Ink on the pricked Line, p q.

Then cut the same in cardstock, by laying these pieces of paper on top (since cardstock is stiffer than paper, it will be more suitable for use). Draw a line with ink on the pricked line, p q.

Plate 6

B. Cole. Delin. et Sculp.

B. Cole. Delin. and Sculp.

Plate. VI.

Plate 6.

Page.408

Page 408

The Hole in C must be something larger than in the Cut, because the Setting-screw must be so, being best to be of Brass, which is less apt to rust than Iron, of which Metal it was formerly made; but Brass, being weaker, requires the more of it to equal the Strength of Iron.

The hole in C has to be bigger than in the Cut because the Setting-screw needs to be that way. It’s better if it's made of brass, which doesn’t rust as easily as iron, the material it was made from before. However, since brass is weaker, you need more of it to match the strength of iron.

The Wreath, Fig. 14. is not necessary, because the Slider, Fig. 15. is sufficient without it; but then care must be taken, that the Edges of its Claws A B, which rub against the Cylinder of E, in Fig. 9. be taken off, to prevent their cutting it. This Slider is sometimes made of Brass, and sometimes of Iron.

The Wreath, Fig. 14. isn't needed because the Slider, Fig. 15. is enough on its own; however, it’s important to make sure that the edges of its claws A B, which touch the cylinder of E, in Fig. 9. are trimmed to avoid cutting into it. This Slider is sometimes made of brass and sometimes made of iron.

Thus the Workman will have the Sides and Ends of the Turnep-mortise, which make the Whole of it, whereby he may make it exactly in soft Wood.

Thus the worker will have the sides and ends of the turnip mortise, which make up the whole of it, allowing him to create it precisely in soft wood.

Fig. 7. called the inner Cylinder, being put into the Cylinder A, of the Steel Tongue, Fig. 4. whereby the Holes for the Axis of the Tongue, being the lower from the Top of the Mortise, do not only secure the Edges of the Mortise from breaking out, but also give room for the Flanches B, C, in Fig. 9. to be made to reach as far forwards as the Axis of the Tongue, and farther: Hereby the Hole, in the Bottom of the Hopper, may be as wide at the fore End, as at the pricked Line at the Letter B.

Fig. 7. called the inner Cylinder, is placed into the Cylinder A of the Steel Tongue, Fig. 4. which means that the Holes for the Axis of the Tongue, positioned lower than the Top of the Mortise, not only prevent the Edges of the Mortise from breaking out, but also allow space for the Flanches B, C, in Fig. 9. to extend as far forward as the Axis of the Tongue, and even further: This way, the Hole at the Bottom of the Hopper can be as wide at the front end as it is at the marked Line at the Letter B.

The Notches in the Spindle, Fig. 5. seem to appear deeper than is usual for Turnep-seed; but I remember I have drilled Furze-seed with a Turnep-drill without altering the Notches. As for the Shape of these Notches, they are so fully described in Fig. 6. and Fig. 8. of Plate 3. that I can add nothing to that Description; only that those being for the Wheat-drill, the Size of Notches for the Turnep-drill must be lesser in some proportion to the lesser Size of the Seed.

The notches in the spindle, Fig. 5. seem to be deeper than usual for turnip seeds; but I remember that I've drilled furze seeds with a turnip drill without changing the notches. As for the shape of these notches, they are described in detail in Fig. 6. and Fig. 8. of Plate 3., so I can’t add anything to that description; just that since these are for the wheat drill, the size of the notches for the turnip drill must be smaller in proportion to the smaller size of the seed.

For making the Wheat-drill do the same as for the Turnep-drill. The Fig. 3. in Plate 2. is one Side[410] of the Mortise, by which must be made Two in Pastboard. Fig. 10. in Plate 2. and Fig. 9. in Plate 3. are the Two Ends of it.

For using the Wheat-drill, do the same as you would for the Turnip-drill. The Fig. 3. in Plate 2. is one side[410] of the mortise, which needs to be made two in pasteboard. Fig. 10. in Plate 2. and Fig. 9. in Plate 3. are the two ends of it.

The Cover that prevents the Wheat from falling down on the hinder Side of the Spindle, is one intire Piece of Brass, which is marked B in Fig. 3. of Plate 3. but the Shape of it, with its Hole whereby it is held in by a Screw, is only seen in the Side, Fig. 3. of Plate 2. and there described by pricked Lines; and by pricking through them, the Shape of the End of the Cover may be taken, which Cover is of the same Shape from End to End.

The cover that stops the wheat from falling on the back side of the spindle is made from a solid piece of brass, marked B in Fig. 3. of Plate 3.. However, its shape, along with the hole used for securing it with a screw, can only be seen from the side, Fig. 3. of Plate 2., and it's described there with dotted lines. By tracing these lines, you can outline the shape of the end of the cover, which has the same shape from one end to the other.

The Joyner who cannot by these Additions, and the Explanations of the Plates, make these Drills in Wood, doth not deserve the Name of a Workman.

The Joyner who cannot, with these Additions and the explanations of the Plates, create these Wood Drills does not deserve to be called a Workman.

When he has once made them whole, he can easily make them in Halves like Fig. 8. in Plate 2.

When he has once made them whole, he can easily make them in halves like Fig. 8. in Plate 2.

By these Halves the Founder will make his Moulds proper for casting them in the best Brass. But in these Halves for Casting, there must be no other Holes, but the great Holes, and the Hole for the Setting-screw.

By these Halves, the Founder will prepare his Molds suitable for casting them in the best Brass. However, in these Halves for Casting, there should be no other openings, just the large openings and the one for the Setting-screw.

The great Hole in the Mould must be largest at E, in Fig. 9. Plate 2. and lesser in the Inside in Fig. 8. for as it must be of a conical Shape for making the Core, if it should be cast bigger within, when the Whitesmith bores it (as he must) to an exact Cylinder, the End E would be in Danger of bursting by the Force of the Boring, as it is much thinner than in the Mortise. And besides this, if there should be any little Flaw in the Edges of the Hole within the Mortise (which the Founder must avoid as much as possible), it may perhaps be bored out by means of the Hole’s being less there. The Hole must be something less in the Mould than its proper Size, even where it is largest; else it may happen, that in boring it to a true Cylinder it may become too big. And I believe, in the Cooling of the Brass, the Hole grows bigger as the Spindle grows less.

The big hole in the mold has to be largest at E, in Fig. 9. Plate 2. and smaller on the inside in Fig. 8.. It needs to be shaped like a cone for creating the core. If it’s cast larger on the inside, when the metalsmith bores it (which is necessary) to create a perfect cylinder, the end E might risk breaking due to the pressure from the boring, since it's much thinner compared to the mortise. Additionally, if there are any small flaws on the edges of the hole within the mortise (which the foundry worker should try to avoid as much as possible), they could potentially be removed because the hole is smaller there. The hole should be slightly smaller in the mold than its actual size, even at its largest point; otherwise, it could end up being too large when boring it into a true cylinder. I also believe that as the brass cools down, the hole expands while the spindle contracts.

[411]

[411]

For the Hole of the Setting-screw, lay on upon the dark Part of Fig. 8. one of the Pastboard-sides; and from the black Line p q, draw a Line coincident to it as on the Brass, for making the half Hole A by; and the other Half of it on the opposite Half-side.

For the hole of the setting screw, place one of the cardboard sides onto the dark part of Fig. 8.; and from the black Line p q, draw a line that lines up with it as on the brass, to create the half hole A; and the other half of it on the opposite half side.

These Pastboards will be very useful to the Whitesmith, for directing him to find the Places where the Holes for the Axis of the Tongue, and those for screwing the Two Halves of the Mortise together, are to be made. I advise against boring the great Hole with a Tool (a Bit) with more than Four Edges; for it would be apt to tear the Brass.

These Pastboards will be really helpful to the Whitesmith, as they will guide him to locate the spots where the holes for the Axis of the Tongue and those for screwing the Two Halves of the Mortise together need to be drilled. I recommend not using a tool (a bit) with more than four edges for boring the large hole, since it could easily damage the Brass.

The great Hole of the Turnep-drill is bored with Tools like those wherewith a Gun is bored. But the Wheat-drill is bored with a Screw-stock, whose Edges are made sharp for that Purpose, and may be set wider or narrower at Pleasure: It is put into the Hole along with an half-round Piece of Wood, the lower End of the Stock being set fast in a Vice: The whole Seed-box (for it must always be screwed together before it is bored), being put on the End of the Stock (made taper a little way for entering), is turned round it by a long wooden Spanner, which hath a Notch in the middle of it, to receive the whole Seed-box, in order to bore it by turning it round upon the Stock.

The big hole of the turnip drill is made using tools similar to those used for boring a gun. But the wheat drill is made with a screw stock, which has sharp edges designed for this purpose, and can be adjusted wider or narrower as needed. It is placed into the hole along with a half-round piece of wood, with the lower end of the stock secured in a vice. The entire seed box (which must always be assembled before it's bored) is attached to the end of the stock (tapered slightly at one end for easier entry) and is rotated by a long wooden wrench that has a notch in the middle to hold the entire seed box, allowing it to be bored by turning it around the stock.

The Brass ought to be of the best Sort, which will be easy to file, and yet not mix with baser Metal.

The brass should be of the highest quality, easy to file, and not mixed with inferior metal.

The Seed-boxes may be cast whole by these Moulds; but I prefer those that are screwed together, for several Reasons, which I have not time now to write.

The seed boxes can be made whole with these molds; however, I prefer the ones that are screwed together for several reasons, which I don't have time to explain right now.

There is a Turnep Seed-box come to my Hands that was made by Pretenders; I wish it is the only one made in the same manner; for it is useless; the Notches in the Spindle are much shorter than the Breadth of the Mortise; at each End of the Notches is a deep Chanel (as deep as the Bottom of the Notches) quite round the Spindle, instead of a Mark, which should be but just visible for cutting the Notches;[412] and instead of a tender Steel Spring, there is a strong Piece of Iron without Elasticity. By means of this Iron, the Machine grinds the Seed, instead of drilling it.

I have a Turnip Seed-box that was made by some fakers; I hope it’s the only one made this way, because it's useless. The Notches in the Spindle are much shorter than the Width of the Mortise; at each End of the Notches, there’s a deep Channel (as deep as the Bottom of the Notches) all around the Spindle, instead of a Mark that should just be barely visible for cutting the Notches; and instead of a soft Steel Spring, there’s a solid Piece of Iron with no Flexibility. Because of this Iron, the Machine grinds the Seed instead of drilling it.[412]

What I shall here add concerning the Wheat-drill, is some Alterations in Fig. 21. of Plate 4. viz. The fore Share and Sheat must be left out for drilling Wheat, up more middle Rows being used. And the Two Beams B B in the Plough, Fig. 1. must be set to make Chanels Ten Inches asunder. And the double Hopper, Fig. 15. must be set nearer together, so as the Seed may fall into the middle of the Funnels of the Beams.

What I will add here about the Wheat-drill is some changes in Fig. 21. of Plate 4. that is. The front share and sheath should be removed for drilling wheat, using rows spaced more evenly. The two beams B B in the plough, Fig. 1. must be adjusted to create channels that are ten inches apart. Additionally, the double hopper, Fig. 15. must be positioned closer together, so the seed falls into the center of the funnels of the beams.

Tho’ there is no Necessity of Marking-wheels for guiding the Drill-horse upon Ridges; yet they are very useful for holding the Drill steady, and to prevent its tottering, which without the Marking-wheels, and the fore Hopper, it is apt to do, when the Shares stand so near together as Ten Inches; and on a narrow Ridge one of the hinder Wheels might run off to the Furrow, and draw the Shares after it, if the Drill were not kept steady by the Marking-wheels, and by their Hopper, which takes hold of the single Standard by Fig. 22. as is seen in Fig. 21. in Plate 4. But there should not be so much room in it on each Side of the Standard, left the Plough by that means should have too much room to totter, now the Shares are so near together.

Though there’s no need for marking wheels to guide the drill horse along the ridges, they are really helpful for keeping the drill steady and preventing it from wobbling. Without the marking wheels and the front hopper, it can easily tip over when the shares are only ten inches apart. On a narrow ridge, one of the back wheels could go off into the furrow and pull the shares with it if the drill isn't kept steady by the marking wheels and their hopper, which connects to the single standard by Fig. 22. as shown in Fig. 21. in Plate 4.. However, there shouldn’t be too much space on either side of the standard, or the plow could end up having too much room to wobble now that the shares are so close together.

The Marking-wheels must be set at the Distance of the Breadth of Two Ridges, which, as we now make them, is about Nine Feet and an half from Wheel to Wheel.

The marking wheels must be set at a distance equal to the width of two ridges, which, as we currently make them, is about nine and a half feet from wheel to wheel.

The Brass Box may be taken out of the fore Hopper: And tho’ that Hopper be of no Use to the double Row, except as is abovesaid; yet if there should be Occasion to press the Marking-wheels deeper into the Ground for keeping the Plough the more steady in its Course, it may be usefully filled with Earth, or other Matter, sufficient for that Purpose. And besides,[413] it may serve to plant Three Rows of St. Foin, when the fore Share and Sheat are put in, and the Beams and hinder Hopper set a Foot or Eighteen Inches wider, and the Marking-wheels at their due Distance, as is directed in the Essay. Thus the same Drill may plant Wheat and St. Foin.

The Brass Box can be removed from the front Hopper. And although that Hopper isn’t useful for the double Row, as mentioned above, if there's a need to press the Marking-wheels deeper into the ground to keep the Plough steadier in its path, it can be filled with soil or other material enough for that purpose. Additionally,[413] it can be used to plant three rows of St. Foin when the front Share and Sheat are in place, and the Beams and back Hopper are set a foot or eighteen inches wider, with the Marking-wheels at their proper distance, as directed in the Essay. This way, the same Drill can plant both Wheat and St. Foin.

A Drill for the double Rows might be made with a single hinder Hopper, instead of the double one. And there is a Contrivance to supply the Use of the fore Hopper for keeping the Plough steady, and more easy to make than that Hopper; but this cannot be described by Words without Cuts.

A drill for double rows could be made with a single rear hopper instead of the double one. There's also a device that can replace the front hopper for keeping the plow steady, which is easier to make than that hopper; however, this can’t be explained in words without illustrations.

The Lime wherewith the brined Wheat is dried, receiving some of the Salts from the Brine, will stick in the Notches of the Spindle; yet never makes any Stoppage to their Delivery of the Seed; but every Year we clean the Notches from the Lime with a Chissel, and, if it were done oftener, it would not be amiss.

The lime used to dry the salted wheat, picking up some of the salts from the brine, gets stuck in the notches of the spindle; however, it never stops the delivery of the seed. Every year, we clean the notches of the lime with a chisel, and if we did it more often, that wouldn't hurt.

There is an Accident that may possibly happen, but never to a careful Driller; viz. a large Clod may some way be thrown into a Funnel of the Beam of the Plough, either by a Wheel, or by the Paddle that cleanses the Sheats from the Dirt that sticks to them when the Earth is wet. This may stop the Wheat from falling out of the Funnel into the Trunk; and then, so far as the Plough, goes thus stopped, the Chanel will have no Seed in it; but the Driller that follows may take it out immediately, which if he should neglect to do for never so little a Distance, he ought to stop the Plough whilst he supplies the Chanel with Seed from his Hand as far as it is empty. When there is any Danger of this, as in very rough cloddy Ground, it is best to take off the Drill-harrow, to the end that the Chanel may lie open for receiving the Seed from the Hand. But if the Ends of the Hopper reach below the Funnels, and they are otherwise defended, as they may be, this Accident can never happen.

There’s an accident that could happen, but it won’t affect a careful driller; namely, a big clod might somehow get thrown into the funnel of the plow beam, either by a wheel or by the paddle that cleans the sheets of dirt that sticks to them when the ground is wet. This could prevent the wheat from falling out of the funnel into the trunk, and then, as far as the plow goes, it’ll be stopped, meaning the channel won’t have any seeds in it. However, the driller that follows can remove it right away. If he neglects to do this, even for a short distance, he should stop the plow and refill the channel with seeds by hand as far as it’s empty. When there’s a risk of this happening, like in very rough, cloddy ground, it’s best to take off the drill harrow, so the channel is open to receive the seeds from hand. But if the ends of the hopper extend below the funnels and are otherwise protected, this accident can’t occur.

[414]

[414]

When the Drill-harrow is taken off, the best way for taking up the Plough to turn it, is to bore a Hole of about half an Inch Diameter in the End of each Beam behind the Funnels, and fasten a Withe into these Holes; by which Withe the Driller very conveniently takes hold with one Hand, and lifts up the Plough, laying his other Hand on the Hopper to keep it steady. This Method of taking up the Plough hath been often used for the Wheat-drill, and for the Turnep-drill; and in the latter the Hole in the one Beam holds the Withe as well as do the Two Holes in the former.

When the Drill-harrow is removed, the best way to lift the Plough is to drill a hole about half an inch in diameter at the end of each beam behind the funnels and attach a strap into these holes. With this strap, the driller can easily grab it with one hand and lift the Plough while using the other hand to stabilize the hopper. This method of lifting the Plough has often been used for the Wheat-drill and the Turnip-drill; in the latter case, the hole in one beam holds the strap just as effectively as the two holes in the former.

There are new Editions of some of these Engines, which cannot be fully described without more Plates; but since those already described are found by Experience to be sufficient for the Purposes they were designed for, new Editions of them are not necessary, tho’ convenient in many respects.

There are updated versions of some of these engines, which can't be fully explained without more plates; however, since the ones already described have proven to be adequate for their intended purposes, new editions of them aren’t essential, although they are useful in many ways.

Reason will easily make Additions to the Instruments when they are necessary; as when more than one Brass Spindle is to be turned by one or each Wheel for planting Clover amongst Barley after it is come up. ’Tis done by a very light Plough, drawn by a Man: It plants Four Rows at once Eight Inches asunder: The Shares are very short and narrow, and so are the Sheats and Trunks. ’Tis not difficult to put on a Crank at the other End of the Brass Spindle, in the same manner that the Handle that winds up a Jack is put on, and to fasten it at the Hole at I in Fig. 5. of Plate 2. This Crank must, at its first turning, before it turns up towards the Letter H, of the same Fig. be long enough to reach to within an Inch of the Fork of the Second Spindle. Thus each Wheel may turn several Spindles, and then this Drill may plant many Rows of Seeds at once.

Reason can easily add to the tools when needed; like when multiple brass spindles need to be operated by one or each wheel for planting clover among barley once it has sprouted. It’s done using a very light plow, pulled by a person: It plants four rows at a time, spaced eight inches apart. The shares are quite short and narrow, as are the sheaths and trunks. It's not hard to attach a crank at the other end of the brass spindle, just like the handle that winds up a jack, and to secure it at the hole marked I in Fig. 5. of Plate 2.. This crank must, at its initial turn, before turning up towards the letter H, in the same Fig., be long enough to reach within an inch of the fork of the second spindle. This way, each wheel can turn several spindles, allowing this drill to plant many rows of seeds simultaneously.

When you plant Rows nearer together than Eight Inches, it is best that the Plough have Two Ranks of Shares and Hoppers, else the Earth may be driven[415] before the Shares; but with Two Racks of them, they will not be more apt to drive the Earth before them in making Rows at Four Inches asunder, than at Eight, when there is only a single Rank of Shares.

When you plant rows closer than eight inches apart, it’s better for the plow to have two sets of shares and hoppers; otherwise, the soil may get pushed in front of the shares. However, with two sets, they won’t be more likely to push the soil ahead when making rows four inches apart than when making them eight inches apart with just a single set of shares.[415]

But I think this near Distance of Four Inches cannot be proper for any Sort of Seeds, except Flax-seed; and even for that Seed not necessary. If the Land be made fine, a single Rank of Shares will go very well to plant Rows at Seven Inches asunder.

But I think this close distance of four inches isn’t suitable for any type of seeds, except for flaxseed; and even for that seed, it’s not really needed. If the soil is prepared well, a single row of shares works perfectly for planting rows seven inches apart.

I had formerly a Drill-Plough for drilling across very high round Ridges for Hand-hoeing, where Horse-hoeing is impracticable: It had no Limbers; but it had little Ground-wrists to make open Chanels, and had Handles behind it, whereby the Driller raised up the Tail of the Plough, when it was passing the Summit of the Ridge. There were neither Funnels nor Trunks; for these would hinder the Seed from falling into the Chanels, both by the Plough’s going up and down the Ridge. The Hopper was drawn by the Plough in such a manner, that in passing all Parts of the Ridge the Wheels were not raised from the Ground: The Chanels were equally supplied with Seed throughout: It planted Four Rows at once, at a Foot asunder. I used this Drill-Plough 30 Years ago in Oxfordshire: I have no such Ridges here, nor consequently any Occasion of such an Instrument; and did not make Cuts of it, because it is not useful for Horse-hoeing. I only mention it here for the Benefit of those who have a mind to plant such Ridges regularly with an Engine: I hope their own Reason will enable them to contrive such a Plough, especially now they have the manner of making the Drill, Hopper, &c. shewn to them.

I used to have a drill plow for planting across very high, rounded ridges for hand hoeing, where horse hoeing isn’t practical. It didn’t have limbers, but it had small ground wheels to create open channels, and it had handles at the back so the driller could lift the tail of the plow when going over the top of the ridge. There were no funnels or trunks, as these would block the seed from dropping into the channels while the plow moved up and down the ridge. The hopper was designed so that as it went over all parts of the ridge, the wheels stayed on the ground. The channels were filled with seed evenly, and it planted four rows at once, spaced a foot apart. I used this drill plow 30 years ago in Oxfordshire: I don’t have any such ridges here, and therefore no need for such a tool; I didn’t make any drawings of it because it isn’t useful for horse hoeing. I only mention it here for those who want to plant such ridges regularly with a machine: I hope their own reasoning will help them figure out how to create such a plow, especially now that they’ve been shown how to make the drill, hopper, & c.

I have made a very material Addition to the Hoe-Plough, of Plate 6. viz. At the fore End of the Beam Fig. 2. is the Hole I, by which alone let the Plough be drawn, leaving out the Hole H; instead of the Hole G make a Mortise, Three or Four Inches[416] long, and as broad as the Thickness of the Iron Pin, the End and Nut of which are seen at C, in Fig. 1. This Pin should be more than half an Inch Diameter, and square at that End that goes into the Mortise; let the hinder End of the Mortise just appear behind the Plank, when the Beam is at right Angles with it.

I’ve made a significant update to the Hoe-Plough, specifically at the front end of the beam. There’s a hole I, which is the only place to pull the plough, so we’ll be skipping hole H. Instead of hole G, create a mortise that’s three or four inches long and as wide as the thickness of the iron pin. The end and nut of the pin can be seen at C. This pin should be more than half an inch in diameter and have a square shape at the end that fits into the mortise. The back end of the mortise should just be visible behind the plank when the beam is at a right angle to it.

By means of this Mortise there may be many more Holes through the Plank without Danger of splitting into one another the Holes in the Beam, which must answer those in the Plank.

By using this mortise, you can create many more holes through the plank without the risk of splitting the holes in the beam, which need to align with those in the plank.

Draw many Lines from the Middle of the foremost Hole of the Plank to the hinder Edge of it, at (suppose) a quarter of an Inch from one another there; and then bore a Hole in that Part of each Line that is least apt to break into the next Hole to it.

Draw several lines from the center of the front hole of the plank to the back edge, roughly a quarter of an inch apart; then drill a hole at the part of each line that is least likely to break into the next hole.

Every System of Holes in the Plank will have like Benefit of being increased in their Number by the Convenience of this Mortise; without which it is impossible to have so great Variety of turning the Point of the Share to make the Share go parallel to the Horse-path.

Every system of holes in the plank will similarly benefit from an increase in their number thanks to this mortise; without it, it's impossible to achieve such a great variety in adjusting the point of the share to keep it parallel to the horse path.

The Board described in p. 403. we now use very seldom in Hoeing of Wheat.

The Board mentioned in p. 403. is now rarely used in wheat farming.

Explanation of Plate VII.

Fig. 1. shews the Plank and the Harrow of the latest and best Drill-plough, most simple, and accommodated to the present Practice of planting double Rows.

Fig. 1. shows the plank and the harrow of the newest and best drill plow, designed to be straightforward and adapted to the current method of planting double rows.

Latest model drill plough

A is the Plank, with all its Mortises and Holes; b is the Mortise into which the Tenon of the fore Sheat of the Drill-plough, for planting treble Rows, was fastened; d is the square Hole for receiving the Seed from a Hole of the same Shape and Size in the Bottom of the Funnel.

A is the plank, with all its mortises and holes; b is the mortise where the tenon of the front sheet of the drill plough, used for planting triple rows, was secured; d is the square hole for receiving the seed from a hole of the same shape and size at the bottom of the funnel.

When the Sheat is taken out of the Mortise b, and another Sheat is made exactly the same with that, place them in the Mortises a a, and make the Two[417] square Holes c c behind them, for their Funnels to stand on. Make the Mortise e, which is to hold the single Standard that is to hold up the fore Hopper in the treble Drill, and in this to guide the Wheels also, instead of Wreaths, that in the treble Drill are put on the Spindle bearing against the Insides of the double Standards; for in this the Shares being but Ten Inches asunder, and at such a Distance from each of the Wheels, that neither of them doth by rising lift up a Share perceptibly; but if the Shares were wide asunder, or there were more of them reaching nearer to the Ends of the Plank, a Wheel might rise up, and lift a Share out of the Ground, if guided by the single Standard and Hopper, as in this. The single Standard is shewn in Plate 4. Fig. 10. but this has no Fork at its Bottom, as that has. This has only a single Tenon, and is shouldered before, behind, and on each Side, to hold it the more firm and steady, when tightly pinned down by Two Pins underneath the Plank. The Dimensions of this Standard are the same with those of the other; but the Shoulders must not increase the Thickness of the Standard any higher than the Tops of the Funnels.

When the Sheat is removed from the Mortise b, and another Sheat is made exactly the same as the first, place them in the Mortises a a, and create the two square holes c c behind them for their Funnels to sit on. Make the Mortise e, which will hold the single Standard that is meant to support the fore Hopper in the treble Drill, and guide the Wheels instead of using Wreaths, which are typically placed on the Spindle bearing against the Insides of the double Standards. In this design, the Shares are only ten inches apart, and positioned so that neither Wheel noticeably lifts a Share when it rises. However, if the Shares were spaced further apart, or if more Shares extended closer to the ends of the Plank, a Wheel could rise and lift a Share out of the ground, if it were guided by the single Standard and Hopper, as it is here. The single Standard is shown in Plate 4. Fig. 10., but it does not have a Fork at the bottom like the other one does. This one has only a single Tenon and is shouldered in front, back, and on each side, to provide extra stability when it is tightly secured with two Pins under the Plank. The dimensions of this Standard are the same as those of the other, but the Shoulders should not increase the thickness of the Standard above the height of the Tops of the Funnels.

The Four other square Holes, viz. f with another behind it, and g with one before it, are for the double Standards, which are to be well shouldered, or braced on the Side of each that is next to the End of the Plank, and on the Outside. There is no need of Shoulder or Brace on the Sides where the Spindle is placed, or on the Side next to the Middle of the Plank.

The four other square holes, namely f with another behind it, and g with one in front of it, are for the double standards, which need to be properly supported or braced on the side next to the end of the plank and on the outside. There's no need for a shoulder or brace on the sides where the spindle is placed or on the side next to the middle of the plank.

The Four round Holes h i k l are those thro’ which the Four Pins pass that hold on the Limbers, and the Piece A, in Fig. 2. and the other of the same Sort in Fig. 4.

The four round holes h i k l are where the four pins go through to secure the limbers, and piece A, in Fig. 2. and the other of the same kind in Fig. 4.

Harrow leg
Harrow leg

 

Fig. 2. and 4. shew how the Harrow’s Leg B is held to the Piece A, by the Pin C. The Letters a b shew the Holes through which the Pins do pass to[418] screw the Piece A up to the Plank, and the Limbers for guiding the Harrow. This Piece A is somewhat longer than the Breadth of the Plank; it is about Two Inches thick, and Two and an half in Depth. The Pin Fig. 3. goes through this Piece near the Bottom of its fore End, whereby the Harrow tines have the more room to rise up, without being held down by the Legs pressing against the Plank.

Fig. 2. and 4. show how the Harrow’s Leg B is attached to Piece A using the Pin C. The letters a b indicate the holes through which the pins pass to[418] secure Piece A to the plank, and the limbers help guide the Harrow. Piece A is slightly longer than the width of the plank; it measures about two inches thick and two and a half inches deep. The Pin Fig. 3. goes through this piece near the bottom of its front end, allowing the Harrow tines to lift more freely without being pressed down by the legs against the plank.

Fig. 3. is the Pin C, of Fig. 2. a is its Head, b its round Part, whereon the Harrow moves; c is its square Part, that prevents its turning, which by the Motion of the Harrow would unscrew the Nut d, and cause it to come off of the Screw e, and be lost.

Fig. 3. is Pin C, of Fig. 2. a is the Head, b is its round part where the Harrow moves; c is its square part that stops it from turning, which, due to the motion of the Harrow, would unscrew the Nut d and cause it to come off the Screw e, resulting in it being lost.

The Harrow is also shewn in Fig. 1. as it is guided by the Pieces before described: B is its Head, that holds the Tines D D, drawn by the Legs C C. Tho’ these Legs in Plano seem in their Middle to crook sideways, yet when out of Perspective, their Middles crook only downwards; which is to give the greater Length to the Tines, and the more room for them to move up.

The Harrow is also shown in Fig. 1. as it is directed by the previously mentioned Pieces: B is its Head, which holds the Tines D D, pulled by the Legs C C. Although these Legs in Plano appear to bend sideways in the middle, when viewed from a different perspective, their middles only bend downwards; this is to provide more length to the Tines and more space for them to move upward.

Spindle details

Fig. 5. is the Spindle in Three Parts. A is the middle Part, wherein are the Notches b b. This is best to be of Oak, or some other hard Wood, in which the Edges of the Notches are less apt to wear than in softer Wood; but I have had a Set that have lasted the Drilling of 120 Acres, when made of Ash. B and C are the Two other Parts: D and E are their Ends, whereon the Wheels are put. The Holes h h h h, and the same in the other End under the Letter E, are for setting the Wheels at different Distances, in order for making new Notches, or for different-sized Ridges: The Wheels are held in their Places by long Nails put through some of these Holes, and clenched upon the Iron Stock-bonds to prevent their falling out. These Ends B and C need not be cut to a Square; except just enough to prevent the Wheels from turning on the Spindle.

Fig. 5. is the Spindle in Three Parts. A is the middle part, which has the notches b b. It's best to make this out of oak or another hard wood, as the edges of the notches are less likely to wear down compared to softer woods. However, I've had a set made from ash that lasted through the drilling of 120 acres. B and C are the other two parts: D and E are their ends, where the wheels are attached. The holes h h h h, and the ones at the other end under the letter E, are for positioning the wheels at different distances for creating new notches or for different-sized ridges. The wheels are secured in place with long nails inserted through some of these holes and bent over to grip the iron stock-bonds and prevent them from falling out. These ends B and C don’t need to be cut into a square shape, except just enough to stop the wheels from turning on the spindle.

[419]

[419]

Hollow cylinder

These Three Parts are grafted together by Help of the hollow Cylinder Fig. 6. which, being put on upon the Joint f, of the Spindle Fig. 5. holds the Parts A and B together by the Two Pins a a, passing through the Cylinder near its Ends, and through the Holes k and g.

These three parts are connected by the hollow cylinder Fig. 6., which, when placed over the joint f of the spindle Fig. 5., keeps parts A and B together using the two pins a a that go through the cylinder near its ends and into the holes k and g.

This Joint may be in another manner; viz. One Part of the Spindle may enter into the other by cutting it to a square Peg of an Inch long, and ³⁄₄ths Diameter, entering an Hole that fits it, at the End of the other Part.

This joint can be made another way; for example, one part of the spindle can fit into the other by shaping it into a square peg one inch long and three-quarters of an inch in diameter, which goes into a hole that matches it at the end of the other part.

These Pins will be best to have Screws at their Ends with Nuts to them; and then they need not be so tight in the Holes, and may be the more easily taken out, when the Part B is to be taken off for avoiding Obstructions in drilling an outside Ridge.

These pins should have screws at their ends with nuts attached. This way, they don’t need to be so tight in the holes and can be taken out more easily when part B needs to be removed to avoid obstructions while drilling an outside ridge.

The Cylinder is a Foot long, and about half an Inch thick, bound with an Iron Ferrel at each End; and if there were another in the Middle, it might be the stronger.

The cylinder is a foot long and about half an inch thick, held together with an iron ferrule at each end; if there were another one in the middle, it might be even stronger.

Place the Cylinder on the Outside of the Spindle, the Joint f being exactly against the Middle of the Cylinder; and mark at each End of it, in order to see when it is in its right Place; and after it is put on and pinned, mark likewise on the Spindle the exact Places of the Holes, for the more easy finding them every Time the Cylinder is put on.

Place the cylinder on the outside of the spindle, ensuring that the joint f is directly aligned with the center of the cylinder. Mark both ends so you can tell when it's in the correct position. After it's attached and pinned, also mark the spindle with the exact locations of the holes to make it easier to find them every time you attach the cylinder.

Another Cylinder must be on the Joint c, held together by Pins passing thro’ the Holes i and d, in the same manner, and for the same Purpose, as the other Joint already described.

Another Cylinder must be on the Joint c, held together by Pins passing through the Holes i and d, in the same way, and for the same Purpose, as the other Joint already described.

The Spindle ought to be of equal Diameter with the Bore of the Seed-boxes, thro’ which it is to pass; but this I find, needs not be quite an Inch and ³⁄₄ths; it may want an 8th of it, even in this long Spindle.

The spindle should have the same diameter as the opening of the seed boxes it will go through; however, I've found that it doesn't need to be exactly one and ¾ inches. It can be slightly less than that, even with this long spindle.

Pin
Sheat

 

Fig. 7. is one of the Pins which hold the Cylinder in its Place, as has been said; a is its Head; b the Stalk, which would be better to be a Screw at its[420] lower End, whereon to screw a Nut; but then the Stalk must be square at the Head.

Fig. 7. is one of the pins that keeps the cylinder in place, as mentioned earlier; a is its head; b is the stalk, which would be better as a screw at its[420] lower end, where you could screw on a nut; but the stalk would need to be square at the head.

Fig. 8. is a Sheat with its Trunk and Share of the Drill-plough, which has been described in Plates 4. and 5. but the Shape of the Share, as it rises at the Socket, is more plainly seen in this Figure.

Fig. 8. is a sheet with its trunk and share of the drill plow, which has been described in Plates 4 and 5. However, the shape of the share, as it rises at the socket, is more clearly seen in this figure.

Wheat drill complete

Fig. 9. is the whole Wheat-drill, which at present I use for planting the double Row. A is the Hopper, rising and sinking on the single Standard B, which holds it up. C is the thing like the Carrier of a Latch, described by Fig. 22. in Plate 4. I need say no more for describing this Drill, than to shew how it differs from that described in Plate 4. viz. This Hopper has Two of these Carriers, the one near its Top, like the other; and another near its Bottom, which keeps the Plough from rising at either End, without the rising of either End of the Hopper, which is no Inconvenience here; because the Two Shares, being but Ten Inches asunder, are almost the same as one; so that at the Distance the Wheels stand from each other, the rising of one Wheel doth not lift up the Share that is next to it perceptibly; as it would do if the Shares were farther asunder, or the Wheels nearer together.

Fig. 9. is the whole wheat drill that I'm currently using for planting in double rows. A is the hopper, which moves up and down on the single standard B that supports it. C is the part that looks like a latch carrier, as described by Fig. 22. in Plate 4.. I don't need to say much more to describe this drill except to point out how it differs from the one mentioned in Plate 4. viz. This hopper has two of those carriers, one near the top, similar to the other, and another near the bottom, which prevents the plow from lifting at either end without raising either end of the hopper, which isn't a problem here. This is because the two shares are only ten inches apart, making them almost equivalent to one. So, at the distance the wheels are from each other, the raising of one wheel doesn't noticeably lift the share next to it, unlike what would happen if the shares were spaced farther apart or the wheels were closer together.

This Hopper holds twice as much Seed as the single fore Hopper did, viz. half a Bushel; and is divided into Two equal Parts by the Partition e, whereby the Driller sees whether the Seed is discharged equally; and if he perceives that one Part of the Hopper runs out faster than the other, he must adjust them by the Setting-screws.

This hopper holds twice as much seed as the single front hopper did, namely half a bushel, and is divided into two equal parts by the partition e, allowing the driller to see if the seed is being discharged evenly. If he notices that one part of the hopper is emptying faster than the other, he must adjust them using the setting screws.

The Funnels a a, which receive the Seed from the Hopper, and convey it down into the Trunks c c, appear under the Hopper, as doth also Part of the Hole d, whereon the Funnel stood when the fore Hopper was single. D shews the Cylinder upon the grafted Spindle at one End, as F shews where the other End with its Cylinder and Wheel is taken off.[421] The Ends of the Piece A, which guide the Harrow, appear behind the Plank at f f. At g in the Harrow-head is a Hole exactly in the Middle between the Tines, for tying on a Stone when the Harrow is too light for the Soil. Note, This Hole must follow exactly after the Middle of the Plank, i. e. between the Two Shares at an equal Distance from each.

The Funnels a a, which receive the Seed from the Hopper and move it down into the Trunks c c, are located under the Hopper, as is part of the Hole d, where the Funnel was positioned when the previous Hopper was single. D shows the Cylinder on the grafted Spindle at one end, while F shows where the other end with its Cylinder and Wheel is removed.[421] The ends of Piece A, which guide the Harrow, are visible behind the Plank at f f. At g in the Harrow-head, there is a hole exactly in the middle between the Tines for tying on a stone when the Harrow is too light for the soil. Note: This hole must align exactly with the center of the Plank, i.e. between the two Shares at an equal distance from each.

Observe, that the Legs of this Harrow go thro’ the Head on the Outsides of the Tines, as in the treble Drill they go thro’ on the Inside of the Tines. Instead of the wooden Tines, may be put in common Iron Tines of a proper Length.

Observe that the legs of this harrow go through the head on the outside of the tines, whereas in the triple drill, they go through on the inside of the tines. Instead of the wooden tines, you can use standard iron tines of the right length.

The Two Hooks whereby the Plough is drawn are at h h. ’Tis best for the Ends of the Hooks to turn upwards, so that the Links of the Chain-traces, that are to be put on them, may not be apt to drop off. Take care that these Traces be of an equal Length, which may be easily made even by the Links that are put on these Hooks.

The two hooks that pull the plow are at h h. It's best for the ends of the hooks to turn upwards so that the chain trace links attached to them don’t fall off. Make sure the traces are the same length, which can easily be adjusted with the links on these hooks.

Note, The Links of the Piece of Chain, whereby the Plough is made to go deeper or shallower, may be very small, and by no means in the Proportion they bear to the Limbers in the Cut. There need not be above Four or Five Links. If there be occasion to raise or sink the Limbers more than that Number will reach, the Cord may be tied longer or shorter on the other Limber. And when there is not the Convenience of Chain-traces, they may be supplied by a few Iron Links at the Ends of Hempen Traces.

Note: The links of the piece of chain that adjust how deep or shallow the plow goes can be quite small and shouldn't necessarily match the size of the limbers in the cut. You only need about four or five links. If you need to raise or lower the limbers beyond what those links can manage, you can simply tie the cord longer or shorter on the other limber. Also, if you don't have chain traces available, you can use a few iron links at the ends of hemp traces instead.

Fig. 10. is the Shape of a wooden Wreath, which (when the Shares stand wider asunder, or when there are more than Two of them, so that they come nearer to the Ends of the Plank, this Wreath) is necessary to be put on the Spindle, the End a bearing against the Inside of the double Standards, and the End b being towards the Hopper. ’Tis fixt to the Spindle by the Screw c, which should not enter the Spindle above half an Inch deep. There may be another like Screw[422] to enter in the same manner on the opposite Side of this Wreath. There must be in this case another Wreath the same of this to bear against the other double Standards. And when these Wreaths are used, the Hopper must have only the upper Carrier C; the lower one must be taken off. But in this our Drill for planting Wheat, no Wreaths must be on the Spindle, except those at b b, which are to hold the Hopper from moving endways. And these may be of the Sort above described, the End a bearing against the Hopper.

Fig. 10. is the shape of a wooden wreath, which (when the shares are further apart or when there are more than two of them, bringing them closer to the ends of the plank, this wreath) needs to be placed on the spindle, with end a against the inside of the double standards and end b facing the hopper. It’s fixed to the spindle by screw c, which should not penetrate the spindle more than half an inch deep. There can be another similar screw[422] positioned in the same way on the opposite side of this wreath. In this case, there must be another wreath like this one to support the other double standards. When these wreaths are used, the hopper should only have the upper carrier C; the lower one must be removed. However, in our drill for planting wheat, there should be no wreaths on the spindle, except for those at b b, which are meant to prevent the hopper from moving lengthwise. These can be of the type described above, with end a against the hopper.

Wooden wreath
Hoe plough beam

 

Fig. 11. is the Beam of the Hoe-plough described in Plate VI. Fig. 2. with no other Alteration than leaving out the Hole H, and the pricked Line between it and the Hole I; and changing the Hole G into a Mortise. The pricked Line a b represents the hinder Edge of the Plank, behind which appears a very small Part of a Mortise. See p. 415, 416.

Fig. 11. is the Beam of the Hoe-plow described in Plate VI. Fig. 2. with no other changes except removing the Hole H and the dotted line between it and Hole I; and converting Hole G into a Mortise. The dotted line a b shows the back edge of the Plank, behind which is a tiny part of a Mortise. See p. 415, 416.

Plank

Fig. 12. is the Plank, which is Fig. 3. in Plate VI. The Improvement of it in this Figure is described in p. 415, 416.

Fig. 12. is the Plank, which is Fig. 3. in Plate VI. The enhancement of it in this illustration is detailed in p. 415, 416.

An Appendix to Chap. IX. of Wheat, p. 138. containing Memoranda for the Practisers of this Husbandry.

At the Second Hoeing the Plough goes in the Furrow of the First, making it deeper, and nearer to the Wheat. The Third Hoeing fills up this Furrow; and then, at the Fourth Hoeing, the Plough goes in the same Place as the Second, turning the Mould into the Interval. ’Tis remarkable that though the Furrows of the Second and Fourth Hoeings be deep, and near to the Rows, seeming to deprive the Wheat of the Mould which should nourish it, whereby one would imagine, that these Furrows lying long open should weaken or starve it; yet it is just the contrary; for it grows the more vigorous: And it is the Observation of my Ploughmen, that[423] they cannot at these Hoeings go too near to the Rows, unless the Plough should tear out the Plants.

At the second hoeing, the plow goes into the furrow created by the first, making it deeper and closer to the wheat. The third hoeing fills in this furrow; then, at the fourth hoeing, the plow goes back into the same spot as the second, turning the soil into the space between. It's interesting that even though the furrows from the second and fourth hoeings are deep and close to the rows, seemingly taking away the soil that nourishes the wheat, which might lead one to think that these long-open furrows would weaken or starve it, the opposite is true; it actually grows more vigorously. My plowmen have observed that they can’t get too close to the rows during these hoeings without risking uprooting the plants.

Plate 7

Plate 7.

Plate 7.

P. 422

P. 422

Invented & Designed by & Printed for Jethro Tull Esq Oct: the 25th 1738

Invented & Designed by & Printed for Jethro Tull, Esq. Oct: the 25th 1738

If I may presume to assign the Cause of this surprising Effect, it is, in my Opinion, the following; viz. This open Furrow has a double Surface of Earth, which by the Nitre of the contiguous Atmosphere, is pulverized to a great Degree of Minuteness near the Row. The Roots that the Plough cuts off on the perpendicular Side of the Furrow, send out new Fibres to receive the Pabulum from this new-made Pasture; and also Part of this superfine Powder is continually falling down into the Bottom of the Furrow, and there gives a very quick Growth to those Roots that are next it, and a quick Passage through it into the Earth of the Interval, where they take likewise the Benefit of the other Side of this pulverized Furrow. When it is said, that Air kills Roots, it must not be understood, that it kills a Plant, unless all, or almost all, its Root is exposed to it, as it is not in this Case. Some think there are Roots that run horizontally below the Plough into the Interval; but of this I am not convinced.

If I can take a guess at the reason for this surprising result, I think it’s the following: This open furrow has a double layer of soil, which gets finely ground by the nitrogen in the surrounding atmosphere near the row. The roots that the plow cuts off on the vertical side of the furrow send out new fibers to absorb nutrients from this freshly created pasture; plus, some of this fine powder keeps falling to the bottom of the furrow, promoting rapid growth for the roots nearby and facilitating their passage into the soil in between, where they also benefit from the pulverized earth on the other side of the furrow. When it’s said that air kills roots, it shouldn’t be taken to mean that it kills a plant unless most, or almost all, of its roots are exposed to it, which isn’t the case here. Some people believe that there are roots that grow horizontally beneath the plow into the gaps, but I’m not convinced of that.

’Tis not often that we hoe above Four times; and then the Furrow is turned towards the Row at the Third time only.

It’s not often that we hoe more than four times; and then the furrow is turned towards the row only on the third time.

There being no Danger from these Furrows lying long open, we are not confined to any precise Distance between the times of Hoeing, for which we need only regard the Weather, the Weeds, and our own Convenience of Opportunity and Leisure.

There’s no risk from these furrows being left open for a long time, so we aren’t restricted to any specific interval between hoeing. We just need to consider the weather, the weeds, and our own convenience and availability.

’Tis an Advantage when these Furrows lie open on each Side of the double Row till Harvest; for then there need only Two Furrows to be plowed on a Ridge to throw down the Partition in order for planting the next Crop; but if at the last Hoeing the Furrows are turned towards the Row, they must be plowed back again after Harvest before the Partition can be plowed: This requires double the time[424] of the other; and the sooner the Partitions are plowed, the more time they will have to be pulverized before they are replanted. Indeed this Advantage is only when the Rows are to be planted where they were the Year before; for this is rather a Disadvantage when they are to be planted in the Intervals. Whether these Furrows lying long open next the Rows in very hot dry Climates may be prejudicial, cannot be known, but by Trials.

It's beneficial when these furrows stay open on each side of the double row until harvest; this way, you only need to plow two furrows on a ridge to break down the partition for planting the next crop. However, if the last hoeing turns the furrows toward the row, they need to be plowed back after harvest before the partition can be plowed. This takes double the time compared to the other method; and the sooner the partitions are plowed, the more time they’ll have to be broken up before replanting. This advantage only applies when replanting in the same rows as the previous year; it becomes a disadvantage when planting in the gaps. Whether having these furrows open for a long time next to the rows in hot, dry climates is harmful can only be determined through trials.[424]

As from the external Superficies of an Acre of Pasture on a rich Soil, Animals take more Pabulum than of an Acre on a poor Soil; so Vegetables take more Pabulum from the internal Superficies of a rich Acre than of a poor one; the Pulveration, or Superficies of Parts, being equal. See p. 44, 45. From whence there is no Encouragement for making Trials on very poor Land.

As with the outer surface of an acre of pasture on rich soil, animals consume more food than they do on an acre of poor soil; similarly, plants take in more food from the inner surface of a rich acre compared to a poor one, assuming the breakdown of the parts is the same. See p. 44, 45. Therefore, there’s no incentive to conduct experiments on very poor land.

’Tis no great Matter whether the Rows are drilled on the Partitions, or the Intervals; for the Crops of a Field, Four Years successively drilled on the Partitions, were very good. After the Partitions had been plowed, and lain open till the Weather made them pulverizable by the Harrows, and then turned together by Furrows larger than those which opened them, much Earth of the Intervals was mixed with them. This is the strongest and lowest Ground I have; and if there should be much wet Weather after Harvest, it is so long in drying, that we take the first Opportunity the Weather allows for planting the Wheat, which is generally done in the above manner, because it is the shortest; but, without some such Reason to the contrary, I prefer planting the Rows on the precedent Intervals.

It doesn't really matter whether the rows are drilled on the partitions or the intervals; the crops from a field drilled on the partitions for four years straight were really good. After the partitions were plowed and left open until the weather made them easy to work with using harrows, the soil from the intervals was mixed in when turning them together with furrows larger than those that opened them. This is my strongest and lowest land, and if we get a lot of rain after harvest, it takes a long time to dry out, so we take the first chance the weather gives us to plant the wheat, which we usually do in that way because it's the quickest method. However, if there's no compelling reason otherwise, I prefer to plant the rows on the previous intervals.

My Field, whereon is now the Thirteenth Crop of Wheat, has shewn that the Rows may successfully stand upon any Part of the Ground. The Ridges of this Field were for the Twelfth Crop, changed from Six Feet to Four Feet Six Inches: In order for this[425] Alteration, the Ridges were plowed down, and the whole Field was plowed cross-ways of the Ridges for making them level; and then the next Ridges were laid out the same way as the former, but One Foot Four Inches narrower; and the double Rows drilled on their Tops, whereby of consequence there must be some Rows standing on every Part of the Ground, both on the former Partitions, and on every Part of the Intervals: Notwithstanding this, there was no manner of Difference in the Goodness of the Rows, and the whole Field was in every Part of it equal, and the best, I believe, that ever grew on it. It has now the Thirteenth Crop, likely to be very good, tho’ the Land was not plowed cross-ways.

My field, which is now on its thirteenth crop of wheat, has shown that the rows can grow successfully on any part of the ground. The ridges for the twelfth crop were changed from six feet to four feet six inches. To make this adjustment, the ridges were plowed down, and the entire field was plowed crosswise to level them; then the new ridges were laid out the same way as the previous ones but were one foot four inches narrower, with double rows drilled on top of them. As a result, there must be rows standing on every part of the ground, both on the former divisions and in all the spaces in between. Despite this, there was no difference in the quality of the rows, and the entire field was consistently the best, I believe, that has ever grown here. It now has its thirteenth crop, which looks likely to be very good, even though the land was not plowed crosswise.

The proper Times for Plowings and Hoeings depending upon the Weather, and other Circumstances, cannot be directed but by the Reason and Experience of the Practiser, as has been said.

The right times for plowing and hoeing depend on the weather and other conditions and can only be determined by the reason and experience of the person doing the work, as mentioned before.

The Number of Ridges being increased, as their Breadth is now diminished, occasions somewhat the more Plough-work, we likewise use more Handwork than formerly; but the Profit of this increased Labour is more than double to the Expence of it.

The number of ridges is increasing while their width is shrinking, which leads to a bit more plowing work. We’re also doing more handwork than before; however, the profit from this extra labor is more than double the cost.

The Decline of the Woolen Manufacture furnishes us at this time with Plenty of Hand-hoers and Weeders; because they can earn much more by working in the Field than by Spinning at home.

The decline of the woolen industry provides us right now with plenty of farm laborers and weeders; because they can earn a lot more working in the fields than they can spinning at home.

’Tis better to make Fifteen Ridges on an Acre, than to leave any Earth unmoved by the Hoe-plough in the Middle of the Intervals; but when Ploughmen, by Practice, understand well to use the Hoe-plough, they will plow the Intervals clean, tho’ the Ridges are only Fourteen on an Acre.

It’s better to create fifteen ridges on an acre than to leave any soil untouched by the hoe-plow in the middle of the gaps. However, when farmers become skilled at using the hoe-plow through practice, they will plow the gaps properly, even if there are only fourteen ridges on an acre.

Bearded Wheat is in this Country called Cone, and that which has no Beard Lammas. I observed formerly the Bread of White-cone had a little yellowish Cast, which I now suspect was from the Mill-stones; for I have seen it be very white these many Years, since[426] the Millers know better how to grind this Wheat. Cone wheat Westwards yields Six-pence a Bushel more than Lammas; but towards London the contrary.

Bearded Wheat is called Cone in this country, while the type without a beard is referred to as Lammas. I noticed before that the bread made from White-cone had a slight yellowish tint, which I now think was due to the millstones; because I've seen it be very white for many years now, ever since[426] the millers learned to grind this wheat better. Cone wheat in the West sells for six pence more per bushel than Lammas; however, it's the opposite towards London.

The Reasons why a whole Field of Wheat doth not produce a Crop equal in proportion to a Yard or Perch cut, rubbed out, and weighed immediately upon the Spot, may be, because the Grain of the Field lying to sweat in the Mow, loses considerably of its Weight and Measure. There is also some lost in the Field by Reapers, and by Leasers; and some is by Threshers thrown out of the Barn; and some of them are found to have Contrivances to carry home with them at Night, Part of the Wheat they thresh in the Day. I say nothing of those Thieves, who in Harvest rob the Field in the Dark; tho’ they are not very uncommon.

The reasons why an entire field of wheat doesn’t yield a crop equal in quantity to a yard or perch that’s cut, threshed, and weighed right there may be that the grain left to dry in the mow loses a significant amount of its weight and size. Some is also lost in the field by harvesters and sharecroppers, and some is discarded by threshers outside the barn. Some of them are known to have ways of taking home part of the wheat they thresh during the day. I won’t even mention those thieves who steal from the field at night; they’re not that rare.

I missed of making my proposed Experiment of the single Row, after I had prepared for it by plowing out one of the double in several Places for that Purpose; but, in the Hurry of Harvest, they were cut together with the rest, without making any Trial; as should have been made, if my Illness had not prevented my Attendance in the Field at the time of Reaping.

I missed the chance to carry out my planned experiment with the single row after I had prepared for it by plowing out one of the double rows in several spots for that purpose. However, in the rush of harvest, they got cut down with the rest without any trial being made, which should have happened if my illness hadn’t kept me from being in the field during harvest time.

The Practice and Instruments that are left off for better in their room, as the Quadruple and Treble Rows, &c. are still useful to be shewn, in order to deter others from going into an inferior Method that is now exploded; for some might think it an Improvement of the double Rows, &c. by their own Invention, if they should not know it had been already tried.

The tools and techniques that have been set aside for improvement in their own right, like the Quadruple and Treble Rows, &c., still need to be demonstrated to prevent others from adopting an outdated method that is no longer accepted. Some might mistakenly see it as an upgrade to the double Rows, &c., believing it to be their own creation if they don’t realize it has already been attempted.


[427]

[427]

INDEX.

  • Artificial Pasture of Plants exceeds the Natural, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & more.
  • Atmosphere, by Rain and Dews, reimburses the pulverized Earth, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
  • B
  • Barley, a hoed Plant of it produced Fifty large Ears, 65
  • Barley drilled on Ridges must be reaped, 63
  • But needs not be bound up in Sheaves, ibid.
  • Barley is the worse for Seed by being sown at Patney, 240
  • Blight, the true Causes of it, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & more.
  • Remedies against the Blight, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc.
  • Breast-Plough insufficient for Tillage of strong turfy Land, 284
  • C
  • Change of Species of Plants not necessary on account of different Nourishment, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Change of the Individuals of some Species of Plants, why useful, 239
  • Clover, Broad, a Damage to Barley when sown amongst it, 188
  • A Remedy against it, ibid.
  • Cytisus, why it cannot be so great an Improvement in England as St. Foin, 172
  • D
  • Dung, in what manner ’tis beneficial, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc.
  • Dung is the Putrefaction of Earth altered by Vessels, 31
  • It may afford some Warmth in Winter, but is sometimes injurious by its Hollowness, 34
  • A considerable Quantity of Dung is necessary to the Old Husbandry, but not to the New, 33
  • Dung, when reduced by a thorough Putrefaction, is next to nothing, 275
  • Why Dung is not injurious to Corn, &c., 33
  • Dung, why more beneficial to Turneps than to other Plants, 88
  • Gross Dung, why it should be prohibited the Kitchen-Garden[428], __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • E
  • Earth, the Price of a Foot of it, and of a Row __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
  • Particles of Earth much more heterogeneous after passing Vessels, 237
  • Effluvia of Animal Bodies noxious, 32
  • Equivocal Generation disproved, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
  • Exhaustion, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
  • F
  • Food, or Pabulum of Plants, what it is, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & so on.
  • Frost, how it is advantageous, 116
  • Furrow, 114
  • Furrows lying long open next the Rows of Wheat beneficial; and the Cause of it, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
  • G
  • Grass, natural, why not killed by constant Feeding, 187
  • H
  • Harrowing, how injurious, 46
  • Of harrowing Wheat-Ridges, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__
  • Heat, the very least Degree of it hard to distinguish from the very least Degree of Cold, 34
  • Hills, Mr. Bradley’s quibbling Arguments about them answered, 248
  • Wet Hills made dry by plowing them cross the Descent, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__-__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
  • Hoeing in general defined, 47
  • Its Uses and Benefit, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__-__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
  • The Error of fansying that Hoeing lets in the Drought, 52
  • Hoed Plants do not impoverish Land, as sown Plants do, 71
  • Horse-hoeing:
  • Mr. Evelyn’s Observation of an Orchard, kept in Tillage, coming to Perfection in half the time of one not plowed, 57
  • Horse-hoeing supplies the Use of local Motion to Plants, 64
  • It equals Dung, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__
  • Its Benefits discovered by Change of Colour of the Plants next to it, 51
  • Comparison of it with Hand-hoeing, 49
  • Some general Directions for performing the Horse-hoeing Husbandry, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & more __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, & more
  • I
  • Interval, what it is, 61
  • Wide Intervals, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, &c.
  • The Reason why Intervals may be narrower for Barley than for Wheat[429], 63
  • L
  • Land strong and light, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & more
  • No one Arable Land exceeds another above twenty times in Richness, 44
  • Land burnt becomes next to barren, 40
  • Land without Cement is unfit for Tillage, 44
  • Land that is unfit for Horse-hoeing, 72
  • Luserne described, 193
  • The Goodness of Luserne, ibid.
  • The Antients Superstition concerning it, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & others __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, & others
  • Swelling of Cattle by eating Luserne when green, 194
  • Why Luserne is more proper for the Hoeing Husbandry than the common Husbandry in England, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • The Soil most proper for Luserne, 204
  • Directions about planting Luserne, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Luserne decays as natural Grass increases amongst it, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc. __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
  • M
  • Mints, several Experiments made on them, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc.
  • Observation upon those Experiments, and Inferences from them, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc.
  • N
  • New and Old Husbandry, the Differences between them, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • O
  • Objections likely to prepossess People’s Minds against making Trials of the Horse-hoeing Husbandry answered, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc. __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, etc.
  • P
  • Pasture of Plants described, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc.
  • How the Vegetable Pasture differs from the Vegetable Pabulum, 22
  • The artificial Pasture of Plants vastly exceeds the natural, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & co.
  • Plants, annual, that live the longest, have most need of hoeing, 92
  • They are more altered, as to their Growth, by Culture than by Climate, 204
  • There is no need to change the Species of Plants in Husbandry, on account of their supposed different Nourishment, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & more
  • Dr. Woodward’s Arguments for the vulgar Opinion in this Matter answered, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & more.
  • Mr. Bradley’s Arguments for the same vulgar Opinion answered[430], 222
  • Mr. Bradley’s Arguments from the perpendicular Growth of Plants answered, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc. __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, etc.
  • Why long tap-rooted Plants do not succeed so well after one another, as they do after those that are not tap-rooted, 232
  • Individuals of several Species (or Sorts) of Plants, are beneficially changed, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Partition, what it is, 61
  • The Width of Partitions in the latest Practice, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Ploughs, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Hoe-Plough, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc.
  • Q
  • Quick-lime for drying of brined Wheat to drill, 141
  • R
  • Ridges, the Methods and Reasons for making them, 241
  • Ridges of Six Feet, Reasons for leaving them off, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Roller, when injurious, 46
  • Rooks, to prevent their Damage, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc.
  • Roots, their Description, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Several Ways to discover their horizontal Extent, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • The Cause of People’s being deceived in the Extent of Roots, 5
  • Great Length of Roots necessary, on account of their Office, 7
  • How Roots and Guts agree, and wherein they differ, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc.
  • How Roots take in the Pabulum, 41
  • Roots have a Communication in all their Cavities, 13
  • Roots supply each other reciprocally with Water and Food, ibid.
  • Roots cannot easily penetrate, unless the Land be opened by Tillage, 6
  • The Rotting of the Roots of broad Clover, and St. Foin, is a Manure to Land, 234
  • Rows, the Inconveniencies of too many or too few on an Acre, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc.
  • Reasons for leaving off the middle Row, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc.
  • ’Tis no great Odds whether the Rows of Wheat, &c. stand on the precedent Partitions, or the Intervals, 424
  • Rows too near, and mixed Crops, discarded, 62
  • Single Row proposed for Smyrna Wheat, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Double, Treble, and even Quadruple Rows, are each called One Row[431], 62
  • S
  • St. Foin, its Description and Names, 157
  • Directions for planting and ordering it, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc.
  • St. Foin, and other long tap-rooted Plants, suffer more by their Pasture’s being overstocked, than other Plants do, 167
  • Directions about St. Foin Hay, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Quantity of St. Foin on an Acre, 186
  • Why St. Foin makes a forty times greater Crop on poor Land, than its natural Grass or Turf, 157
  • Directions for saving St. Foin Seed, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Of feeding St. Foin by Sheep, 187
  • St. Foin Plants not killed by cutting off their Heads, 188
  • St. Foin takes Nine Parts in Ten of its Nourishment below the Staple of the Land, 191
  • Of breaking up old St. Foin, 189
  • Great Improvement made on Arable Land by St. Foin, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & more.
  • Sarrition, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc.
  • Seeds, in their natural Climate do not degenerate, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & more.
  • Causes why Seeds, as to their Individuals, do degenerate, ibid.
  • How to know the most proper Depth to plant all sorts of Seeds at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Some sorts of Seeds come in the Air, or by Birds, 78
  • Sheep, how injurious to drilled Wheat, 149
  • Smuttiness of Wheat, 139
  • The Causes of Smuttiness, ibid.
  • The Cure of Smuttiness, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ etc.
  • Soils differ chiefly in respect of Heat and Moisture, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
  • A Soil can be exhausted by nothing but Roots, 276
  • There is no way for us to enrich a Soil but by Pulveration, and keeping it from being exhausted by Vegetables, ibid.
  • Stratum: The Under Stratum of light Land may be richer than that of strong Land, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
  • T
  • Tillage beneficial to all Sorts of Land, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Tillage can never make Land too fine, 44
  • Tillage of the low Vineyards, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Insufficient Tillage, how ’tis injurious, 40
  • Tillage can pulverize as well as Dung, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • The Plough, in Field-tillage, why preferable to the Spade, 280
  • The same Quantity of Tillage will produce the same Quantity of Food, &c., __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Transplanting[432], 48
  • Trees, the Damage they do to Crops is by robbing, as Weeds only, 74
  • The Reason why some sorts of Trees endure hard Winters better in England than in Languedoc, 202
  • Trials unexpensive proposed, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Turneps, the Soil most proper for them, 79
  • Directions concerning them, 80
  • Advantage of drilling and horse-hoeing of Turneps, ibid.
  • Several manners of spending Turneps by Sheep, 90
  • V
  • Veerings and Hentings, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Vineyards owe their great Products to the Hoe-tillage; and from them the Author first took his Scheme, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • W
  • Water, how injurious, and how beneficial, to Wheat, 97
  • Weeds, their Definition, 73
  • Weeds pernicious in several respects, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ etc.
  • Their Robbing proved by Experiment, 74
  • Why the Race of Weeds cannot be extirpated by the common Husbandry, 75
  • The Race of Weeds most likely to be extirpated by hoeing, 77
  • Weeds cannot be killed before they grow, 129
  • Wheat, why it requires hoeing more than Spring-Corn, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc.
  • Directions about drilling and hoeing of Wheat, Check out __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
  • How a Wheat-Crop is augmented, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, & etc.
  • Of feeding Wheat by Sheep, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, etc.
  • Wheat Ears will be large or small, in proportion to the Nourishment given to their Plants, 119
  • Wheat-ears do not lodge, by reason of their Weight, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
  • Of weighing the Product of a Yard or Perch of a Row of Wheat, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, &c.
  • Cone Wheat and Lammas Wheat, their Difference, 425
  • Smyrna Wheat, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, & etc.
  • Of keeping of Wheat by drying it, 131
  • Some Land unfit for Wheat, 117
  • The time proper for Hand-hoeing of Wheat, 132
  • Winter, what time is meant by it, 115

FINIS.

FINIS.


Transcriber’s Notes

The language used for this e-text is that used in the source document. Inconsistent, unusual and archaic spelling has been retained (also of plant, proper and geographical names). The inconsistent numbering of Plates and individual Figures (some Roman, some Arabic numerals) has not been standardised.

The language used in this e-text is taken from the original document. Inconsistent, unusual, and outdated spellings have been kept (including those for plants, proper names, and geographical names). The inconsistent numbering of Plates and individual Figures (some using Roman numerals, some using Arabic numerals) has not been standardized.

Page 8, ... (being brought over the Top ...: the closing bracket is lacking.

Page 8, ... (being brought over the Top ...: the closing bracket is missing.

Page 16, ... (probably many times more than the Tree’s Weight ...: the closing bracket is lacking.

Page 16, ... (probably many times more than the Tree’s Weight ...: the closing bracket is missing.

Page 215, ... (and it is proved, that no Plant refuses ...: the closing bracket is lacking.

Page 215, ... (and it's proven that no plant refuses ...: the closing bracket is missing.

Page 220, ... than remained in the Glasses F or G ...: these reference letters appear to refer to an illustration, but there is no such illustration in the book.

Page 220, ... than remained in the Glasses F or G ...: these reference letters seem to point to an illustration, but there isn't any illustration in the book.

Page 263-264, list of particulars: for this e-text the numbers 1-9 have been inserted where they appeared to correspond best to the discussion on pages 264-266, not necessarily where the author placed them.

Page 263-264, list of particulars: for this e-text, the numbers 1-9 have been added where they seemed to fit best with the discussion on pages 264-266, rather than where the author originally placed them.

Page 298, ... V the Iron Ground-wrist is shewn in Fig. 9 ...: there are two items V in the drawing; the left-hand one is referred to here.

Page 298, ... V the Iron Ground-wrist is shown in Fig. 9 ...: there are two items V in the drawing; the one on the left is referred to here.

Page 345, ... the Four Screws and Nuts a₂ a₂ a₂ a₂ ...: they are given as simply a a a a in the illustration.

Page 345, ... the Four Screws and Nuts a₂ a₂ a₂ a₂ ...: they are shown as just a a a a in the illustration.

Page 358, description of Fig. 12: reference letters a, b and e are not visible in the illustration.

Page 358, description of Fig. 12: reference letters a, b, and e are missing in the illustration.

Page 381, ... which Hole is seen at a in Fig. 4. ...: the letter a is not visible in the illustration.

Page 381, ... where Hole is shown at a in Fig. 4. ...: the letter a is not visible in the illustration.

Changes made

Changes made

Plates have been moved outside the text paragraphs. Footnotes have been moved and re-combined when printed over several pages. Individual figures from the plates have been included where they are discussed in the text.

Plates have been moved outside the text paragraphs. Footnotes have been relocated and combined when printed over several pages. Individual figures from the plates have been included where they are mentioned in the text.

Some obvious minor typographical and punctuation errors have been corrected silently, as have some erroneously repeated words.

Some obvious minor typos and punctuation mistakes have been corrected quietly, as well as some accidentally repeated words.

Page 15: ,Who dry’d Two hundred Pounds of Earth ... changed to ‘Who dry’d Two hundred Pounds of Earth ....

Page 15: ,Who dried Two hundred Pounds of Earth ... changed to ‘Who dried Two hundred Pounds of Earth ....

Page 24: ... Sir Isaac Newton think ... changed to ... Sir Isaac Newton thinks ....

Page 24: ... Sir Isaac Newton thinks ...

Page 49: ... or a Succadaneum to it ... changed to ... or a Succedaneum to it ....

Page 49: ... or a Succedaneum to it ... changed to ... or a Succedaneum to it ....

Page 81: ... you may hoe-plow them, when you the Fly is ... changed to ... you may hoe-plow them, when you see the Fly is ....

Page 81: ... you may hoe-plow them, when you see the Fly is ....

Page 87: ... as big as one's litle Finger changed to ... as big as one's little Finger.

Page 87: ... as big as one's little finger changed to ... as big as one's little finger.

Page 104: ... whereon the next Drop is to stand ... changed to ... whereon the next Crop is to stand ....

Page 104: ... where the next Crop is to stand ... changed to ... where the next Crop is to stand ....

Page 121: ... that the sowing Method can. changed to ... than the sowing Method can.

Page 121: ... that the sowing method can. changed to ... than the sowing method can.

Page 146: ... gives it litle or no Increase ... changed to ... gives it little or no Increase ....

Page 146: ... gives it little or no increase ... changed to ... gives it little or no increase ....

Page 149: ... that which removes all its Cases ... changed to ... that which removes all its Causes ....

Page 149: ... that which removes all its Causes ....

Page 157: ... And for its long Contiance ... changed to ... And for its long Continuance ....

Page 157: ... And for its long Continuance ...

Page 189: ... to prevent its being too luxuant changed to ... to prevent its being too luxuriant.

Page 189: ... to prevent its being too luxuriant changed to ... to prevent its being too luxuriant.

Page 195: ... sed ligneis rasteltis ... changed to ... sed ligneis rastellis ....

Page 195: ... sed ligneis rasteltis ... changed to ... sed ligneis rastellis ....

Page 215: closing quote mark inserted after ... even as the different Parts of the same Vegetable.

Page 215: closing quote mark inserted after ... even as the different parts of the same plant.

Page 219: Closing quote mark inserted after ... quiet and undisturb'd the while.

Page 219: Closing quote mark added after ... quiet and undisturbed all the while.

Page 259: ... at he could at Six ... changed to ... as he could at Six ....

Page 259: ... at he could at Six ... changed to ... as he could at Six ....

Page 303: ... letting the Second Coulter stand a lighter higher ... changed to ... letting the Second Coulter stand a little higher ....

Page 303: ... letting the Second Coulter stand a little higher ....

Page 346: reference letter A inserted in Fig. II.

Page 346: reference letter A added in Fig. II.

Page 362: The Two Lines e h and f g, at right Angles with the Two last-mentioned Lines ... changed to The Two Lines e g and f h, at right Angles with the Two last-mentioned Lines ....

Page 362: The Two Lines e g and f h, at right angles with the two last-mentioned lines ....

Page 378: reference letter A inserted in Plate IV. Fig. II.

Page 378: reference letter A added in Plate IV. Fig. II.

Page 385, Fig. X: right-hand reference letter E changed to F.

Page 385, Fig. X: right-hand reference letter E changed to F.

Opposite page 392, Plate 5 Fig. X: right-hand reference letter E changed to F.

Opposite page 392, Plate 5 Fig. X: the right-hand reference letter E has been changed to F.

Page 408: ... that is to pass thorough, the Hole in C ... changed to ... that is to pass through the Hole in C ....

Page 408: ... that is to pass through the Hole in C ... changed to ... that is to pass through the Hole in C ....


Download ePUB

If you like this ebook, consider a donation!