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BLACK SPANISH.
Black Spanish.
PROFITABLE POULTRY;
THEIR MANAGEMENT
THEIR MANAGEMENT
IN
IN
HEALTH AND DISEASE.
Health and Illness.
BY W. B. TEGETMEIER,
AUTHOR OF A SERIES OF PAPERS ON THE DISEASES OF POULTRY, IN
“THE COTTAGE GARDENER,” “THE POULTRY BOOK,”
&c., &c.
BY W. B. TEGETMEIER
AUTHOR OF A SERIES OF ARTICLES ON POULTRY DISEASES IN "THE COTTAGE GARDENER," "THE POULTRY BOOK," AND OTHERS.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY HARRISON WEIR.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY HARRISON WEIR.
NEW EDITION GREATLY ENLARGED.
NEW EDITION SIGNIFICANTLY EXPANDED.
LONDON:
DARTON AND CO., HOLBORN HILL.
LONDON:
DARTON AND CO., HOLBORN HILL.
1854.
1854.
[Pg 2]
[Pg 2]
PREFACE.
In issuing this edition the Author begs leave to tender his sincere thanks, firstly, to the public whose rapid purchase of an unusually large impression has enabled him to issue the present greatly enlarged, and, he hopes he may add, improved edition; secondly, to his brother amateurs to whom he is indebted for so many suggestions and so much valuable assistance; thirdly, to his reviewers, all of whom have spoken so favourably of his efforts to impart sound practical common sense, in place of the gross absurdities, which, it is not too much to say, previously disfigured all the low-priced poultry works; to the distinguished naturalist who did him the honour to give a lengthened review of the work in Fraser’s Magazine (Dec. 1853), he gladly takes this opportunity of expressing his thanks, as he is personally unknown. The present is distinguished from the last edition by the extension of such parts as were previously meagre; a table of the constituents of food has been added, which it is hoped may prove useful; a longer account of several varieties has been given, and the chapter on diseases has been considerably enlarged, and several new remedies indicated.
In releasing this edition, the Author would like to express his heartfelt thanks, first to the public whose quick purchase of an unusually large print run has allowed him to produce this greatly expanded and, he hopes, improved edition; second, to his fellow enthusiasts to whom he owes many suggestions and invaluable support; third, to his reviewers, all of whom have spoken highly of his efforts to provide practical common sense instead of the ridiculous nonsense that previously marred all the affordable poultry guides; to the renowned naturalist who honored him with a detailed review of the work in Fraser’s Magazine (Dec. 1853), he takes this chance to offer his gratitude, as they are personally unknown to each other. This edition is different from the previous one by elaborating on parts that were once brief; a table of food components has been included, which he hopes will be helpful; a more extensive description of several varieties has been added, and the chapter on diseases has been significantly expanded, with several new remedies suggested.
Willesden, Midsummer, 1854.
Willesden, summer 1854.
PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.
PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.
The object of this little work is purely practical; its aim is to place in the hands of persons who may not have had much experience, a book which should contain all that is most essential to be known respecting the housing, feeding, breeding, and treatment of fowls; and to this has been added such information as the experience of the author has enabled him to give respecting the most profitable varieties viewed as agricultural stock.
The purpose of this short book is straightforward; it aims to provide people who may not have much experience with a resource that covers everything essential about housing, feeding, breeding, and caring for chickens. Additionally, it includes insights from the author's experience regarding the most profitable breeds considered as livestock.
August, 1853.
August 1853.
PROFITABLE POULTRY,
Profitable chicken farming,
&c. &c.
&c. &c.
THE FOWL HOUSE.
The singular fact that our common domestic fowls are destitute of any particular English name, points at once to their foreign origin; and, although in the course of many generations, they have become greatly inured to the rigors of our climate, they still retain so far their original constitution as to require the protection of habitation during, at least, a great part of the year.
The fact that our common domestic chickens don't have a specific English name shows their foreign origin. Even though, over many generations, they have adapted to the harshness of our climate, they still need shelter for a significant part of the year to protect them.
One of the most important requisites in a fowl house is absolute dryness, nothing being more fatal to poultry than damp; on clayey soil, or in moist situations, dryness must be secured, either by drainage or by raising the floor several inches above the surface of the ground; in cold situations especially, the aspect of the house is also of some importance; if practicable, the windows and other openings should face the south, as this secures a greater degree of warmth during the winter, an advantage which is also obtained by having the roof ceiled.
One of the most important requirements for a poultry house is complete dryness, as nothing is more harmful to chickens than dampness. In areas with clay soil or moisture, you need to ensure dryness, either by using drainage or by elevating the floor a few inches above the ground level. In cold locations, the direction the house faces is also important; if possible, the windows and other openings should be on the south side to capture more warmth in the winter. This benefit can also be achieved by having a ceiling on the roof.
The perches on which the fowls roost should be low, especially for the larger varieties, as otherwise the violence with which they descend causes lameness, and not unfrequently fracture of the breast bone; in order to prevent the breast bones becoming crooked (a circumstance which greatly injures their appearance, [Pg 4] and consequently their value as table birds), the perches should be much larger than ordinary; a split fir pole, three inches across on the flat side, which should be turned downwards, will be found advantageous, and a height of not more than three or four feet is desirable, as it enables the fowls to be readily caught after they have gone to roost, and prevents lameness; for Cochins it is even necessary that the perches should be much lower; their height should certainly not exceed one foot from the ground, otherwise, from the imperfect powers of flight possessed by these birds, the evils alluded to are very apt to occur. Heavy birds of this variety are sometimes subject to inflammatory tenderness of the feet; to prevent as much as possible the tendency to this disease, it is advantageous in these cases to lay some straight straw lengthway along the top of the perches, binding it in its place with string.
The perches that the chickens roost on should be low, especially for the larger breeds, because if they're too high, the way they jump down can cause lameness and often break their breast bone. To prevent their breast bones from getting crooked (which greatly affects their appearance and, as a result, their value as meat birds), the perches should be larger than usual. A split fir pole that’s three inches wide on the flat side, facing downwards, works well, and a height of no more than three or four feet is ideal. This makes it easier to catch the chickens after they settle in for the night, and it helps prevent lameness. For Cochins, the perches need to be even lower; they shouldn’t be more than one foot off the ground because their flying abilities are limited, which can lead to the mentioned issues. Heavy Cochins can also suffer from tender feet. To minimize this problem, it's helpful to lay some straight straw along the top of the perches and secure it with string. [Pg 4]
The ground below the perches should be strewed with sand, gravel, or ashes, to a considerable depth, so that the dung may be removed without soiling the floor. This should be done every morning early, and the house thrown open during the day, so as to be thoroughly purified. It seldom happens that fowl houses are so built, as to require any distinct contrivance for ventilation; in cases, however, where the door and window are air-tight, means should be afforded for a proper supply of fresh air; there should be an opening at or near the bottom, and another at the top, these should be covered with pieces of perforated zinc, to prevent any direct draught of cold air, which is very injurious. Cleanliness is also a consideration of the highest importance in a fowl house; if ashes or sand are used, as recommended, and the dung removed daily, this is readily secured; and in order to prevent as far as possible the annoyance of vermin, the house should be lime-washed once or twice a year, and the birds also be provided with a box full of dry dust or ashes to bathe in.
The ground beneath the perches should be covered with sand, gravel, or ashes, to a good depth, so that the waste can be removed without messing up the floor. This should be done early every morning, and the house should be opened up during the day to thoroughly air it out. It’s rare for chicken houses to be built in a way that requires special ventilation systems; however, if the door and window are airtight, there should be a way to get fresh air inside. There should be an opening near the bottom and another at the top, both covered with perforated zinc to prevent cold drafts, which can be harmful. Cleanliness is extremely important in a chicken house; if ashes or sand are used as suggested and the waste is cleaned out daily, it can easily be maintained. To minimize pest issues, the house should be lime-washed once or twice a year, and the birds should also have a box filled with dry dust or ashes to bathe in.
[Pg 5] The difference between the health of fowls thus cleanly and warmly housed, and that of those compelled to roost in a dark, damp, dirty habitation is very great; these latter never becoming in good condition. So injurious is damp and cold, that I have known instances in which all the inhabitants of a poultry house have been attacked with violent catarrh terminating in roup, from an east window having been left open on a cold wet night; and it has been found by experiment, that scrofula may always be produced in chickens by confining them in damp, cold, and dark habitations.
[Pg 5] The difference in health between birds that are kept in clean, warm housing and those that have to roost in dark, damp, dirty places is substantial; the latter never really get into good shape. Dampness and cold are so harmful that I've seen cases where every bird in a poultry house suffered from severe nasal congestion that led to roup, just because an east-facing window was left open on a cold, wet night. Experiments have shown that chickens can consistently develop scrofula when kept in damp, cold, and dark environments.
I have found that exceedingly economical and efficient poultry-houses may be built against any wall that is conveniently situated, the sides and front being boarded, and the roof formed of inch deal boards, laid closely edge to edge, up and down the slope, and projecting over the sides and front so as to throw off the rain; the top should be covered with thin cheap calico tightly strained, and, by brushing this over with a good coating of coal-tar, it is cemented to the roof, which is thus rendered water-tight.
I’ve discovered that you can build really affordable and effective chicken coops against any convenient wall. The sides and front can be boarded up, and the roof should be made of one-inch boards, placed tightly together, running up and down the slope and extending over the sides and front to help shed rain. The top should be covered with thin, inexpensive cotton fabric that’s pulled tight, and by applying a good layer of coal tar over it, the fabric gets stuck to the roof, making it waterproof.
The patent Asphalte felt forms a cheap and warm roofing, but it also requires to be tarred over, in order to resist the weather. If the poultry-house is tiled, the downward current of cold air in winter, may be prevented by lining the roof with straw supported by laths nailed to the rafters; and in other cases I have found that stout brown paper, oiled or painted, and tacked smoothly to the under side of the rafters, has been very efficient in increasing the warmth of the house, and consequently the production of eggs in winter.
The patented Asphalte felt makes for an inexpensive and warm roofing option, but it also needs to be covered with tar to withstand the weather. If the poultry house has a tiled roof, you can stop the cold air from coming in during winter by lining the roof with straw held up by laths nailed to the rafters. In other situations, I've found that strong brown paper, either oiled or painted and smoothly tacked to the underside of the rafters, works really well to increase the warmth of the house, which, in turn, boosts egg production during winter.
FEEDING.
There is, perhaps, no subject on which a greater diversity of opinion exists among poultry keepers, than respecting the relative value of the different substances used as food. This difference of opinion arises from the general ignorance that prevails with regard to the true principles of feeding. It cannot be too strongly impressed on all feeders of stock that the food eaten has to serve several distinct purposes when taken into the body. One portion is consumed in supporting the natural warmth of the animal; another set of substances supplies the nourishment required for the growth of the body, and replaces the daily wasting that occurs; a third yields the materials from which the bones are formed; and a fourth supplies the fat which is stored up in the bodies of animals; we may, therefore, speak of the following classes of foods:—
There’s probably no topic where poultry keepers have more differing opinions than about the value of the various substances used for feed. This disagreement comes from the general lack of understanding about the real principles of feeding. It’s crucial for anyone who raises livestock to realize that the food they provide serves several specific purposes once consumed. One part helps maintain the animal's natural body heat; another group of substances provides the nutrients needed for growth and replaces the daily wear and tear; a third offers materials for bone formation; and a fourth supplies the fat stored in the animals' bodies. Therefore, we can categorize food into the following classes:—
1st. Warmth-giving Food.—As starch, which forms almost the entire bulk of rice, and the solid portion of potatoes; gum, sugar, &c.
1st. Warmth-giving Food.—Since starch makes up almost the entire content of rice and the solid part of potatoes, along with gum, sugar, and so on.
2nd. Flesh-forming Food.—As gluten, &c., which exists in large proportion in wheat, oatmeal, peas, beans, middlings and sharps, and in somewhat smaller quantity in barley, Indian corn, &c.
2nd. Flesh-forming Food.—Such as gluten, etc., which is found in large amounts in wheat, oatmeal, peas, beans, bran, and flour remnants, and in somewhat smaller amounts in barley, corn, etc.
3rd. Bone-making Food.—Which is found in larger proportion in the bran, or outer part of the grain, than in the inner parts.
3rd. Bone-making Food.—This is found in greater amounts in the bran, or outer part of the grain, than in the inner parts.
4th. Fat-forming Food.—Consisting of fatty or oily substances; these occur, to a considerable extent, in Indian corn (the yellow variety), oatmeal, middlings, bran, &c.
4th. Fat-forming Food.—These are made up of fatty or oily substances, which are found in significant amounts in yellow corn, oatmeal, middlings, bran, etc.
All experiments that have been made tend to prove that each [Pg 7] of these kinds of food is unable to serve the purposes of the others; thus, to give an example, neither warmth-giving nor fat-forming substances are capable of adding to the flesh of a growing animal, nor can flesh-forming food increase the quantity of fat. In a mere elementary work, like the present, it is impossible to go into this subject at any great length. Those who desire the facts on which these statements are grounded are referred to the works of Johnston, Liebig, and other eminent agriculturists and agricultural chemists. We must take the principles as granted, and apply them to an examination of the different substances usually employed in poultry feeding.
All experiments conducted suggest that each type of food cannot fulfill the roles of the others. For example, neither foods that provide warmth nor those that produce fat can contribute to the growth of an animal's flesh, and likewise, flesh-building foods can't increase the amount of fat. In a basic work like this one, it's not possible to delve deeply into the subject. Those interested in the evidence backing these claims should consult the works of Johnston, Liebig, and other respected agricultural scientists and chemists. We must accept these principles as given and apply them to an analysis of the various substances commonly used in poultry feeding.
Grain forms the staple food of poultry, the varieties used being generally either barley, oats, wheat, Indian corn, or rice.
Grains is the main food for poultry, with the most commonly used types being barley, oats, wheat, corn, or rice.
Barley is perhaps more frequently used than any other grain; it is better relished by fowls than oats, and its first cost is considerably below that of wheat. It contains from ten to eleven pounds of flesh-forming, sixty of starchy substances, and two to three of oil or fat in every hundred.
Barley is probably used more often than any other grain; birds prefer it over oats, and it’s significantly cheaper than wheat. It provides around ten to eleven pounds of protein, sixty pounds of carbohydrates, and two to three pounds of fats in every hundred.
Oats are not taken so freely as barley, which is apparently owing to the large proportion of husk they contain, which lessens their value as poultry food; but when used in the form of grits or oatmeal they are eaten with great avidity, and in this state furnish one of the most wholesome and nutritious varieties of food, containing eighteen of flesh-forming, sixty-three of starchy substances, and six pounds of fatty materials in every hundred. No grain contains a larger proportion of flesh-forming substances than oatmeal—it is, therefore, the one best adapted to growing animals, and I have found that chicken make much more rapid progress when it forms the chief portion of their food than when fed on any other substances. Cochin, and Spanish chicken especially, show its good effects by the rapidity with which they feather when fed with it.
Oats aren't consumed as readily as barley, likely due to their higher husk content, which reduces their value as poultry feed. However, when prepared as grits or oatmeal, they are eagerly eaten and provide one of the healthiest and most nutritious food options, containing eighteen parts of protein, sixty-three parts of starch, and six pounds of fat per hundred. No grain has a higher proportion of protein than oatmeal—it is, therefore, the most suitable for growing animals. I've observed that chickens grow much faster when their diet is primarily oatmeal compared to other foods. Cochin and Spanish chickens, in particular, demonstrate the benefits through the speed at which they develop feathers when fed this.
[Pg 8] Wheat, contrary to the popular opinion, is not more nutritious than oatmeal; it contains about twelve pounds of flesh-forming nutriment, seventy of starchy, and two to four of oil, in every hundred. Its cost operates considerably against its employment, although it is extensively used by some breeders of choice poultry, with whom expense of feeding is a secondary consideration.
[Pg 8] Wheat, contrary to popular belief, isn’t more nutritious than oatmeal; it has about twelve pounds of protein, seventy pounds of starch, and two to four pounds of oil in every hundred. Its price makes it less favorable for use, although it is widely used by some breeders of high-quality poultry, for whom the cost of feeding is a secondary concern.
Indian Corn is remarkable for the large proportion of oil contained in the yellow varieties, which averages eight pounds in every hundred; its capability of putting on flesh is not greater than that of barley, as it contains only eleven per cent. of flesh-giving food, and sixty-six of starchy matters. Cochins seem remarkably fond of it, but I have found that it is refused by Dorkings and Spanish, when they are able to obtain other grain.
Indian Corn is notable for the high amount of oil found in the yellow varieties, averaging eight pounds per hundred. Its ability to help gain weight is not better than that of barley, as it has only eleven percent flesh-building nutrients and sixty-six percent starch. Cochins appear to really enjoy it, but I have noticed that Dorkings and Spaniards tend to avoid it when they have access to other grains.
Rice is the least nutritious of all grains, and therefore the worst that can be given to growing animals. In the husked state in which it is usually found in this country, it contains scarcely any fat, or bone-making materials, and only seven per cent. of flesh-forming food, (less than half the quantity contained in oatmeal,) being almost entirely composed of starch. Boiled rice is a useful variation in the food of fowls, and is much relished, but as the main support of growing chicken it is very objectionable.
Rice is the least nutritious of all grains, making it the worst option for growing animals. In the husked form typically found in this country, it has very little fat or bone-building materials, and only seven percent of flesh-forming nutrients (which is less than half the amount found in oatmeal), as it is almost entirely made up of starch. Boiled rice is a good addition to the diet of birds and is quite popular, but relying on it as the primary food for growing chickens is really not a good idea.
Buckwheat Flour is about equal in nutritive properties to that of wheat, but the large proportion of husk that the unground seeds contain, must be taken into account in estimating its money value; it is commonly supposed to cause a greatly increased production of eggs, but its chemical composition does not shew any superiority over many other varieties of food.
Buckwheat Flour has nutritional properties similar to those of wheat, but the high amount of husk in the unground seeds should be considered when evaluating its monetary value. It's often believed to significantly boost egg production, but its chemical makeup does not demonstrate any advantages over many other types of food.
Dhoora, or Indian millet, a small grain largely cultivated in the east, is employed by some poultry keepers; it is much relished by fowls; the nutritious properties of the flour are very similar to those of wheat, and as it contains very little husk, it may be regarded as a valuable addition to the poultry dietary.
Dhoora, or Indian millet, a small grain mainly grown in the east, is used by some poultry farmers; it's very much enjoyed by birds. The nutritional benefits of the flour are quite similar to those of wheat, and since it has very little husk, it can be seen as a valuable supplement to poultry feed.
[Pg 9] Malt Dust, Malt Culm, and Cummins, are names given to the small sprouts of the barley which are broken off in the process of malting, and form a coarse fibrous powder. Malt dust contains from two to three times as large a proportion of flesh-forming food as wheat, and in this respect far surpasses any of the substances ordinarily used as poultry food; its value not being generally known, it is frequently used as manure; mixed with soft food, it is much relished by fowls, and as it may be obtained at a remarkably cheap rate, its employment is very advantageous.
[Pg 9] Malt Dust, Malt Culm, and Cummins are names for the small sprouts of barley that break off during the malting process, creating a coarse, fibrous powder. Malt dust has two to three times more protein than wheat, making it much better than most foods typically used for poultry; since its value isn't widely recognized, it’s often used as fertilizer. When mixed with soft food, birds really enjoy it, and since it can be obtained at a very low cost, using it is highly beneficial.
Bran, Pollard or Randan, and Middlings or Sharps, particularly the latter, I regard as most valuable additions to the food of poultry. In the first place they are economical—and they contain a very high proportion (eighteen per cent.) of flesh-forming substances, and a very considerable quantity of oil (six per cent.) Another circumstance which adapts them to the use of chicken is the large proportion of bone-making materials they contain.
Bran, Pollard or Randan, and Middlings or Sharps, especially the last one, are, in my opinion, extremely valuable additions to poultry feed. Firstly, they are cost-effective—and they have a very high ratio (eighteen percent) of protein-rich nutrients, along with a significant amount of fat (six percent). Another factor that makes them suitable for chickens is the high level of minerals necessary for bone development they provide.
Many poultry feeders are in the habit of preparing the grain before use; some simply soak the barley or other corn, by placing it in water the previous evening, this lessens the time it has to remain in the crop, before passing on into the gizzard; others boil their corn, a proceeding which has the advantage of rendering it more digestible, as it effects an important change in the starchy part of the grain. Rice, especially, should always be boiled before use, and it should be cooked in such a mode as to allow the grains to remain separate, which may be easily managed by boiling it in a large quantity of water, to which a small piece of fat, as lard or dripping, has previously been added. The experience of all experimental agriculturists is in favour of cooked food for live stock of all descriptions: from the change effected in the starch it is more nutritious, and is more rapidly digested; hence, there is less work for the stomach and digestive organs to perform, and therefore they are less liable to become diseased. From considerable experience in its employment, I can strongly recommend [Pg 10] the following cooked food, as being exceedingly well adapted to supply all the substances requisite to support a healthy and vigorous existence. A quantity of middlings, with or without half its bulk of barley-meal, or a corresponding proportion of malt-dust, is placed in a coarse red ware pan, and baked for about an hour in a side oven, or until the mixture is thoroughly heated throughout; water is then poured in, and the whole stirred together until it becomes a crumbly mass; if too much water is added, the mixture becomes cloggy, a defect which is easily remedied by stirring in a little dry meal. The advantage of this method is that the food is prepared with scarcely any trouble, and there is no fear of its being burnt as in boiling. Sometimes the barley meal is omitted, and the baked middlings mixed with rice which has been previously boiled. This mixture forms the stock food of my old fowls, a liberal supply of grain being given during the day. I have found that since its adoption they cost less in food, and that they are in equally good or even in better condition than when fed on an unlimited supply of grain alone. Should the convenience for baking not exist, it will be found more desirable to scald the middlings and meal with boiling water than to mix them with cold.
Many poultry feeders usually prepare the grain before using it; some just soak the barley or other corn by putting it in water the night before. This reduces the time it has to stay in the crop before moving on to the gizzard. Others boil their corn, which makes it easier to digest by changing the starchy part of the grain. Rice, in particular, should always be boiled before using, and it should be cooked in such a way that the grains stay separate. This can be easily done by boiling it in a large amount of water, with a small piece of fat, like lard or dripping, added beforehand. The experience of all experimental farmers supports cooked food for livestock of all types: the changes in the starch make it more nutritious and it digests faster, meaning less work for the stomach and digestive organs, making them less likely to get diseases. Based on a lot of experience with it, I highly recommend the following cooked food, as it's extremely well-suited to provide all the nutrients needed for a healthy and vigorous life. A quantity of middlings, with or without half its volume of barley meal, or a similar amount of malt dust, is placed in a coarse red pan and baked for about an hour in a side oven, or until the mixture is heated all the way through. Then, water is poured in, and everything is stirred together until it turns into a crumbly mass. If too much water is added, the mixture becomes mushy, which can be easily fixed by stirring in a little dry meal. The benefit of this method is that the food is prepared with very little effort, and there’s no risk of it burning like with boiling. Sometimes the barley meal is skipped, and the baked middlings are mixed with previously boiled rice. This mixture becomes the main food for my older hens, with a good amount of grain provided throughout the day. I've found that since I started this method, their food costs have gone down, and they are just as healthy, if not in better condition, than when they were fed an unlimited supply of grain alone. If you don’t have a way to bake, it’s better to scald the middlings and meal with boiling water rather than mixing them with cold water.
If grain of any kind is broken or crushed, it should only be done shortly before use, unless it is thoroughly kiln dried; for when this is not done, the grain, from the moisture it contains, soon becomes musty, sour, and unwholesome. Inferior samples of grain contain so large a proportion of husk that they are not desirable, and if regarded with reference to their nutritious properties the best will be found the cheapest.
If any type of grain is broken or crushed, it should only be done right before using it, unless it has been completely kiln-dried; otherwise, the moisture in the grain will cause it to become musty, sour, and unhealthy pretty quickly. Lower-quality grains have too much husk and are not worth using, and when it comes to their nutritional value, the best grains are often the most affordable.
Potatoes, when plentiful and free from disease, may be advantageously substituted for rice, which they closely resemble, in containing a large amount of starch; there is less waste in their use, if steamed, than when boiled.
Potatoes, when abundant and healthy, can be a great substitute for rice, since they are similar in their high starch content. They have less waste when steamed compared to when they are boiled.
Peas, Beans, and Lentils, either whole or ground, are much [Pg 11] used by many feeders; they contain a larger amount of flesh-forming food than grain—on the average about twenty-four per cent., whilst the quantity of fat is very small, not usually more than two in every hundred; but they are not easily digested, and are too stimulating to be regarded as a wholesome diet. I have traced many cases of disease, such as white comb in Cochins, inflammation of the stomach and egg passage, &c., &c., to their employment.
Peas, Beans, and Lentils, whether whole or ground, are often used by many feeders; they have a higher percentage of flesh-forming nutrients than grain—on average about twenty-four percent, while the fat content is very low, usually no more than two percent. However, they are not easily digested and can be too stimulating to be considered a healthy diet. I've linked many health issues, like white comb in Cochins, stomach inflammation, and problems with the egg passage, to their use. [Pg 11]
Hemp Seed is frequently given to cause the increased production of eggs, an effect which it can only produce at the sacrifice of the health of the fowls. Hemp is used in India as a most powerful medicine; the evil effects of the seeds on caged birds are known to all bird keepers. I regard it as one of the most injurious substances given to fowls.
Hemp Seed is often used to boost egg production, but it can only do this at the cost of the birds' health. In India, hemp is used as a very strong medicine; the harmful effects of the seeds on caged birds are well-known among bird keepers. I consider it one of the most damaging substances given to chickens.
Fresh Green Vegetables form an indispensable addition to the food of poultry. Those having a free range in the country supply themselves with this kind of food; when they are kept in other situations they should be supplied daily with turf, cabbage, lettuce, or turnip leaves, and in the absence of these substances, as on shipboard, a little moistened corn, allowed to sprout, will be found very advantageous.
Fresh Green Vegetables are an essential part of poultry diet. Those that have free range in the countryside can gather this type of food on their own; when they are kept in different environments, they should be given turf, cabbage, lettuce, or turnip leaves every day. If these options aren't available, like on a ship, some moistened corn that’s allowed to sprout will be very beneficial.
Cooked Vegetables, such as parsnips, carrots, turnips, &c., are much relished, particularly the former; they form an useful and wholesome variation in the diet.
Cooked Vegetables, like parsnips, carrots, turnips, etc., are quite enjoyed, especially the parsnips; they provide a useful and healthy change in the diet.
Animal Food.—The most advantageous animal food for fowls, and on which they make the most rapid and healthy progress, consists in the worms, snails and insects that they obtain naturally when unconfined; I do not think that there is any other kind of food which conduces so much to their healthy condition; where it cannot be obtained, a small quantity of fresh meat (either raw or cooked) may be chopped small and given to them; it is, however, but a poor substitute for the natural insect food. The [Pg 12] maggots of the flesh fly, obtained by hanging up some meat to putrefy, are often employed, but I doubt very much, whether, in wholesomeness, they are at all equal to worms, and the plan is objectionable from the offensive odour of the putrefying meat; if it is thought desirable to employ maggots the best mode is to allow the animal substance to remain exposed to the air until thoroughly fly-blown, if it is then buried eighteen inches deep, the maggots remain under ground until they attain their full size, when they work their way towards the surface, before changing into the perfect insects; the fowls soon discover their approach, and by scratching obtain a plentiful supply; the maggots by working their way through the soil are cleansed from any adhering putridity, and the search for the gradual supply affords amusement for the fowls; even employed in this way, however, I do not think flesh maggots so desirable as worms.
Animal Food.—The best animal food for poultry, which allows them to grow quickly and healthily, consists of the worms, snails, and insects they naturally find when they can roam freely. I don’t believe there’s any other type of food that contributes as much to their health. Where that’s not possible, a small amount of fresh meat (either raw or cooked) can be chopped up and given to them; however, it’s not a great substitute for natural insect food. The maggots from the flesh fly, which can be obtained by hanging meat out to rot, are often used, but I seriously doubt they are as wholesome as worms, and this method is unpleasant due to the smell of the rotting meat. If using maggots is considered beneficial, the best approach is to leave the animal matter exposed to the air until it’s completely infested with flies. Once that’s done, if it is buried eighteen inches deep, the maggots will stay underground until they grow fully and then work their way to the surface before turning into adult flies. The chickens quickly notice their presence and can dig them up for an abundant snack. As they sift through the soil, the maggots get cleaned of any decay, and the process of seeking them out provides entertainment for the hens. Even so, I still think flesh maggots are less desirable than worms.
Tallow Chandler’s Greaves, which are left on melting the fat from the stale scraps of the butchers, and the putrid accumulation of the marine store shop, are strongly recommended by some persons as causing an increased quantity of eggs. Animal substances which have once been in a state of putrefaction cannot by any subsequent process be formed into healthy food, and I can state from experience that greaves are exceedingly injurious to laying hens. Even dogs, when fed upon greaves, become offensive, mangy, and out of condition; their effect upon fowls cannot be less injurious.
Tallow Chandler’s Greaves, which are left over after melting the fat from the leftover scraps of butchers and the foul buildup from the marine store, are strongly recommended by some people for increasing egg production. However, animal substances that have already started to rot can’t be turned into healthy food through any further process, and from my experience, greaves are extremely harmful to laying hens. Even dogs that are fed greaves become smelly, unhealthy, and out of shape; their effects on chickens can’t be any less damaging.
It will not, I trust, be thought that the subject of food has been treated at an undue length, for I am confident that by far the greater number of diseases that occur in fowls arise from improper feeding. I have, therefore, arranged the following Table, in order to render the comparison of the relative value of the different substances more easily made.
It won't, I hope, be considered that I've spent too much time on the topic of food, because I'm sure that most of the diseases that affect chickens come from poor feeding. So, I've put together the following table to make it easier to compare the relative value of different substances.
[Pg 13]
TABLE
Showing the number of pounds of different substances contained
in every 100lbs. of grain, &c., &c.
[When a (—) is used it signifies that the quantity has not been exactly
ascertained.]
[Pg 13]
TABLE
Showing the number of pounds of different substances found
in every 100lbs. of grain, etc., etc.
[When a (—) is used, it means that the quantity has not been specifically
identified.]
- Column Key
- B - Water.
- C - Flesh-forming Food (Gluten, &c.)
- D - Fat or Oil.
- E - Warmth-giving Food (Starch, &c.)
- F - Husk and Fibre.
- G - Bone-making Substances, &c., &c.
Every 100 lbs. of | B | C | D | E | F | G | ||||
lb. | lb. | lb. | lb. | lb. | lb. | |||||
Wheat | contains | 12 | 12 | 3 | 70 | 1 | 2 | |||
Bran, Middlings, &c. | ” | 14 | 18 | 6 | 53 | — | 5 | |||
Oats, with husk | ” | 9 | ½ | 15 | 6 | 47 | 20 | 2 | ||
Oatmeal | ” | 9 | 18 | 6 | 63 | 2 | 2 | |||
Barley | ” | 11 | 11 | 2 | 60 | 14 | 2 | |||
Malt Dust | ” | 6 | 30 | — | — | — | 8 | |||
Indian Corn | ” | 10 | 11 | 8 | 66 | 5 | 1 | |||
Rice, husked | ” | — | 7 | — | 80 | — | a trace | |||
Dhoors | ” | 12 | 11 | — | 70 | 4 | 2 | |||
Buckwheat | ” | — | 11 | — | — | — | — | |||
Peas, &c. | ⎫ | ” | 15 | 25 | 2 | 48 | 8 | 2 | ||
Beans | ⎬ | |||||||||
Tares | ||||||||||
Lentils | ⎭ | |||||||||
Potato | ” | 75 | 2 | a trace | 19 | 3 | ¾ |
[Pg 14] My position in connection with the Cottage Gardener, has given me the opportunity of examining more dead and diseased fowls than perhaps ever fell to the lot of one individual; and, as the most certain result of my experience, I can state that more than one half the cases that come under my care, or that are examined by me after death, are caused by errors in feeding.
[Pg 14] My involvement with the Cottage Gardener has allowed me to examine more dead and sick birds than probably any one person ever has; and based on my experience, I can confidently say that more than half of the cases I handle or examine post-mortem are due to mistakes in feeding.
Inflammation of the digestive stomach (which is situated between the crop and the gizzard), caused by the use of peas, beans, hemp seed, or by the endeavour to force fowls forward for exhibition, or to make them up for the sale room, is a most frequent result. Apoplexy from over-feeding, especially in laying hens, and paralysis from the same cause, are frequent. Inflammation of the egg passage is a common, and unless timely treated, another fatal complaint, generally taking its rise in over-stimulating food; and leg weakness, from the weight increasing faster than the strength, is common in Cochins.
Inflammation of the stomach, located between the crop and the gizzard, often occurs due to feeding peas, beans, and hemp seeds, or from trying to push birds ahead for shows or to prepare them for sale. Apoplexy from overfeeding, particularly in laying hens, and paralysis from the same issue are common. Inflammation of the egg passage is another serious problem that can be fatal if not treated promptly, usually stemming from overly stimulating food; and leg weakness, caused by weight outpacing strength, frequently affects Cochins.

Water.—A daily supply of fresh clean water is indispensable to the health of fowls. Many diseases are caused by their drinking from stagnant ditches and the impure and filthy drainings of manure heaps, &c. A cheap fountain, the best that I have ever seen, inasmuch as it is capable of being cleansed internally, may be made out of any wide-mouth earthenware jar and common glazed flower-pot saucer; by boring a small hole in the jar, an inch or an inch and a half from the edge, then filling it with water, putting the saucer on the top, bottom upwards, and quickly turning them both together upside down, when the water will be found to flow into the saucer to the height of the hole in the jar.
Water.—A daily supply of fresh, clean water is essential for the health of birds. Many diseases arise when they drink from stagnant ditches and the contaminated and filthy runoff from manure piles, etc. A budget-friendly fountain, which is the best I've ever seen because it can be cleaned internally, can be made from any wide-mouth earthenware jar and a regular glazed flowerpot saucer. By drilling a small hole in the jar, about an inch or an inch and a half from the edge, then filling it with water, placing the saucer upside down on top, and quickly flipping them both over, the water will flow into the saucer up to the level of the hole in the jar.
BREEDING.
Much variety of opinion prevails respecting the best mode of constructing the nests for laying and sitting hens. In this, as in all other cases, the nearer we can imitate nature the better; I object to the rows of pigeon-holes so frequently employed, as the close crowding of the fowls harbours vermin, and renders it difficult to thoroughly clean the nests after the eggs are hatched, and believe it will be found more conducive to health and comfort if the nests are quite distinct from each other, and are so formed that they can be entirely removed after the chicken are hatched. The plan that I have found to answer best is to use shallow baskets or boxes, which can be partially filled with sifted coal ashes, road drift, sand, or any similar material; on this a little short straw is placed, and the hen hollows out a slight concavity, which prevents the eggs rolling from under her, and in this way a very good imitation of a natural nest is obtained. The ashes do not harbour vermin, and I have found that eggs hatch much better than in those nests made solely of straw. Care should be taken so nearly to fill the basket or box that the hen can leave without having to spring up from the eggs, and can return without jumping down upon them, otherwise there is great risk of their being broken. Should the hen be particularly fearful, a board placed in a slanting position over the basket with the upper end leaning against the wall, will afford all the privacy required.
There’s a lot of debate about the best way to build nests for hens that are laying and nesting. Like in many situations, the closer we can get to mimicking nature, the better. I’m not a fan of the rows of pigeonholes that are often used, as the tight spacing between the chickens invites pests and makes it hard to clean the nests thoroughly once the eggs hatch. It’s healthier and more comfortable for the hens if the nests are separate from each other and designed to be easily removable after the chicks are born. I’ve found that using shallow baskets or boxes works best. These can be partially filled with sifted coal ashes, road drift, sand, or something similar. On top of that, I place a bit of short straw, allowing the hen to create a small dip that keeps the eggs from rolling away. This setup closely resembles a natural nest. The ashes don’t attract pests, and I’ve noticed that eggs hatch much better than in nests made only of straw. It’s important to fill the basket or box just right so the hen can get in and out without having to jump on or off the eggs, which reduces the risk of breaking them. If the hen is particularly skittish, a board placed at a slant over the basket, with the top resting against the wall, will give her the privacy she needs.
It is desirable that hens should be allowed to sit where they have been previously laying, as there is usually much trouble, except in the case of Cochins, in inducing a hen to sit steadily in a new nest. Hens evince a strong desire to lay where there are other eggs, hence nest eggs are usually employed; they are frequently made of chalk, but from the hardness of the material they are apt to break the new laid egg; soft white wood, turned into [Pg 16] the required shape, makes the best that I have seen, as it does not break the eggs or lose its shape, and is capable of being easily washed, if soiled. Natural eggs are not desirable for nest eggs, as they are very apt to break when they become stale, and so render the nest exceedingly foul.
It's best to let hens sit where they've laid before, as it can be pretty tough, except for Cochins, to get a hen to settle in a new nest. Hens really want to lay where there are other eggs, which is why nest eggs are commonly used. These are often made from chalk, but because the material is hard, they can break freshly laid eggs. Soft white wood shaped appropriately is the best option I've found, as it doesn't break the eggs, keeps its shape, and can be easily washed if it gets dirty. Natural eggs aren't ideal for nest eggs, since they tend to break when they go stale, making the nest quite dirty. [Pg 16]
When a hen becomes broody, which is shewn by her remaining on the nest a longer time than usual, and by the peculiar clucking noise she makes, it is desirable to give her three or four nest eggs to sit on, to test her steadiness for a day or two, and if she is found to sit well the eggs for hatching may be placed in the nest, either when she leaves it to feed, or by lifting her off in the evening; if a broody hen is removed from the nest during the day she usually flies back, at the great risk of breaking the eggs, whereas, if lifted off after dark, she generally remains quietly on the ground and allows the requisite number of eggs to be put into the nest, when she may be lifted back again.
When a hen goes broody, which is indicated by her staying on the nest longer than usual and making a distinct clucking sound, it's a good idea to give her three or four nest eggs to sit on for a day or two to see if she'll stay put. If she does, you can place the eggs for hatching in the nest either when she leaves to eat or by gently lifting her off in the evening. If a broody hen is taken off the nest during the day, she tends to fly back, putting the eggs at risk of being broken. However, if you lift her off after dark, she usually stays calmly on the ground, allowing you to put the necessary number of eggs into the nest before lifting her back again.
The fresher the eggs that are used for hatching the better. If practicable, it is desirable that they should not have been laid more than a fortnight; although they will hatch after a much longer time, if carefully protected from the drying influence of the air and light, and from too high or too low a temperature, in bran or some similar material.
The fresher the eggs used for hatching, the better. Ideally, they shouldn't be more than two weeks old; however, they can still hatch after a much longer time if they're carefully protected from drying out due to air and light, as well as from extreme temperatures, using bran or a similar material.
Eggs intended for hatching, should be kept with the large end upwards, otherwise they should be moved occasionally to prevent the yolk adhering to the upper side; the lid of the box containing them should be closed, in order to protect them from the light, and from the rapid changes of temperature, and the whole should, especially in summer, be kept in a cool place. When sittings of eggs are forwarded by railway or other public conveyance, it is customary to pack them tightly in bran, with considerable spaces between them, others recommend oats to be used; my own experience is most decidedly in favour of hay, [Pg 17] or soft straw, which, by its elasticity prevents all shaking, and enables the eggs to be forwarded any distance without injury.
Eggs meant for hatching should be kept with the larger end facing up; otherwise, they should be occasionally turned to stop the yolk from sticking to the top. The lid of the box holding them should be closed to protect them from light and rapid temperature changes, and the whole setup should especially be kept in a cool place during summer. When sending eggs by train or other public transport, it’s common to pack them tightly in bran, leaving enough space between them; others suggest using oats. Personally, I strongly prefer using hay or soft straw, which, due to its flexibility, prevents any shaking and allows the eggs to be shipped any distance without getting damaged. [Pg 17]
This season, I forwarded two sittings of eggs to the far north of England, one packed most carefully in bran, the other in hay; of the first not one egg hatched, whilst every one of the second produced a chick; and a sitting that I received this season, which was similarly packed, every egg was fertile, although the basket had travelled from the north by coach, rail, and carrier.
This season, I sent two batches of eggs up to the far north of England, one carefully packed in bran and the other in hay. Not a single egg from the first batch hatched, while every egg from the second batch produced a chick. Additionally, a batch I received this season, which was packed in the same way, had every egg fertile, even though the basket traveled from the north by coach, train, and carrier.
The number of eggs placed under a hen usually varies from ten to fifteen; no fixed rule can be given—so much depends on the season of the year, the size of the eggs, and that of the hen. If the eggs are cooled during the sitting, which necessarily happens if they are so numerous that the outer ones are covered merely by the feathers, and not by the body of the hen, the chicken will be weakly or deformed; and as the hen constantly shifts their position by pulling those outside into the centre, and so forcing out the others, all become chilled in their turn, and a weakly brood is the result. A hen when sitting, separates the feathers to so great an extent, that the eggs, if they are not in too great number, are in contact with the naked skin of the breast, and such a quantity should only be given, as can be covered in that manner.
The number of eggs a hen usually sits on varies from ten to fifteen; there’s no strict rule since it depends on the time of year, the size of the eggs, and the hen herself. If the eggs cool down during incubation—something that happens if there are too many so that the outer ones are only covered by feathers, not by the hen’s body—the chicks may be weak or deformed. The hen frequently shifts the eggs, pulling the outer ones into the center, which causes them all to get cold at some point, leading to a weak hatch. When a hen is sitting on eggs, she spreads her feathers so much that if there aren't too many eggs, they come into contact with her bare skin on the breast. Therefore, the number of eggs should only be as many as can be covered in that way.
I am quite confident that a larger number of chicken can be ensured by sitting a moderate than a large number of eggs, and as to their health and vigour there is no comparison.
I am quite confident that a larger number of chickens can be produced by setting a moderate number of eggs rather than a large number, and when it comes to their health and vitality, there's no comparison.
In those varieties which lay large eggs, such as Dorkings, I never give a hen more than thirteen eggs, and usually a smaller number; in winter, I would not exceed eight or nine. In the case of Cochins, where the eggs are small and the hens large, a greater number may be given.
In breeds that lay large eggs, like Dorkings, I never give a hen more than thirteen eggs, and often a smaller amount; in winter, I wouldn't exceed eight or nine. For Cochins, where the eggs are smaller and the hens are larger, you can give a higher number.
With regard to the age of the parents, I believe that it is not so desirable to breed from hens in their first as in the second or third years; the chicken of first year fowls, are more leggy, [Pg 18] smaller, and less hardy and vigorous than those that are produced by more mature parents. When young birds are employed, it is desirable to mate pullets with cocks two or three years old, and cockerels with old hens.
When it comes to the age of the parents, I think it's not as ideal to breed from hens in their first year as it is in their second or third years. The chicks from first-year hens tend to be leggier, smaller, and less hardy and vigorous than those produced by older, more mature parents. When using young birds for breeding, it's best to pair pullets with roosters that are two or three years old, and cockerels with older hens. [Pg 18]
Some persons even carry their objection so far, as not to allow young birds to hatch the eggs of older birds, being under the impression they do not sit with sufficient steadiness. This is certainly not true as regards Dorkings and Cochins, for I have found pullets of eight months age, exemplary sitters and nurses; and at the time of writing this in July, I have two Dorkings of fourteen months age, which are running about with their third broods, having hatched in January, May, and July.
Some people even take their objections so far as to not let young birds hatch the eggs of older birds, believing they won't sit tight enough. This is definitely not true for Dorkings and Cochins, because I’ve found pullets just eight months old to be excellent sitters and caregivers; and as I write this in July, I have two Dorkings that are fourteen months old, which are running around with their third brood, having hatched in January, May, and July.
To ensure healthy and large-sized chicken it is absolutely necessary that there should not be any relationship between the parents; breeding “in and in,” as it is termed, is well known by all rearers of stock to produce diseased and weakly offspring, hence it is indispensable that there should be an introduction of fresh male birds every two or three years. In farm-yards where there are large numbers of poultry, it will be found by far the most desirable plan to keep separately a cock with from four to six of the best hens, and to hatch their eggs alone. By this means the chicken are all certain of coming from the best birds, and a much smaller number of cocks may be kept with the main stock of hens than would otherwise be desirable. The practice of allowing the hens to run with several cocks is calculated to deteriorate the breed materially, should therefore a larger number of eggs be required for hatching, than furnished by a cock and four or six hens, another set should be separated.
To ensure healthy and large chickens, it’s essential that there is no relationship between the parents. Breeding “in and in,” as it’s called, is known by all livestock breeders to create sickly and weak offspring. Therefore, it’s crucial to introduce fresh male birds every two or three years. In farms with many poultry, it’s usually best to keep one rooster with four to six of the best hens and to hatch their eggs separately. This way, all the chicks are guaranteed to come from high-quality birds, and you can keep a much smaller number of roosters with the main group of hens than would normally be needed. Allowing hens to run with several roosters can seriously harm the breed quality. If more eggs are needed for hatching than what a rooster and four to six hens can provide, another group should be kept separately.
In all cases, over crowding must be carefully guarded against, especially where poultry are kept in a confined situation, for if the ground becomes tainted, the inevitable result is that disease breaks out, and that the chicken, being less able to withstand its influence [Pg 19] than older birds, die off rapidly, in spite of good food, warm housing, and every attention that can possibly be paid to them.
In all cases, overcrowding must be carefully monitored, especially when poultry are kept in a confined space. If the ground gets contaminated, disease will inevitably break out, and since chicks are less able to tolerate it than older birds, they will die off quickly, despite being given good food, warm housing, and all the care possible. [Pg 19]
Many persons are in the habit of lifting off the sitting hens in order to feed them, I believe that all such interference is uncalled for and injurious; the less a hen is disturbed whilst hatching the better—when hungry and thirsty she will leave the nest, and should be then fed most liberally. Whole corn I think the best for hatching hens, as it remains longer in the crop and so satisfies hunger for a greater length of time. In addition to food and water the hens should always be provided with a heap of dry ashes, to roll in, to enable them to free themselves from vermin.
Many people often pick up sitting hens to feed them, but I believe that this interference is unnecessary and harmful. The less a hen is disturbed while hatching, the better. When she’s hungry or thirsty, she will leave the nest, and that’s when she should be fed generously. I think whole corn is the best for hatching hens, as it stays in the crop longer and satisfies their hunger for a greater time. Besides food and water, hens should always have access to a pile of dry ashes to roll in, which helps them get rid of pests.
On the twentieth day some of the chicken usually begin to chip the shell, and, generally speaking, they are all hatched on the twenty-first, that is on the same day three weeks that the eggs are placed under the hen. The practice of removing the first hatched and placing them in flannel by the fire side, is followed by many, but I do not see any possible advantage that can arise from so doing; it is impossible to give the exact temperature of the mother, and a degree of heat higher or lower must necessarily be disadvantageous; the only interference that I think desirable, is to remove, if it can be readily accomplished, the empty shells, otherwise the unhatched eggs are apt to slip into them, and the chicken, although furnished with power to break through one shell are unable to force their way through two. The addled eggs (which are readily distinguished by giving them the slightest possible shake, when the moving of the liquid contents is felt) may also be removed so as to give more room to the live birds.
On the twentieth day, some of the chicks usually start to crack the shell, and generally, they are all hatched on the twenty-first, which is three weeks from when the eggs are placed under the hen. Many people practice removing the first hatched chicks and placing them in flannel by the fire, but I don’t see any real benefit to this. It’s impossible to replicate the exact temperature of the mother, and having a slightly higher or lower temperature is bound to be harmful. The only intervention I think is necessary is to remove the empty shells, if it can be done easily, since the unhatched eggs might roll into them. While the chicks have the ability to break through one shell, they can’t push through two. The bad eggs (which can be easily identified by giving them a gentle shake, feeling the liquid inside move) can also be taken out to give more space to the healthy chicks.
I am aware that these recommendations to leave natural operations to nature are contrary to what are frequently found in books, but I am merely writing the results of my own experience, and I have always found the more the hatching hens are meddled with, the worse the result. It is a notorious fact that when a hen steals [Pg 20] a nest in some copse or place where she can remain unmolested, she almost invariably brings forth a more numerous and stronger brood than when she sits in the hen-house.
I know that these suggestions to let nature take its course go against what is often written in books, but I’m just sharing my own experiences. I've consistently found that the more you interfere with hatching hens, the worse the outcomes. It's a well-known fact that when a hen finds a hidden nest in a quiet area where she won't be disturbed, she usually produces a bigger and healthier brood than when she stays in the henhouse. [Pg 20]
The chicken require neither food nor drink on the day on which they are hatched; in fact, both are injurious, as they interfere with the natural digestion of the yolk, which is absorbed into the bowels at the period of hatching, and constitutes the first food. If grits, oatmeal, &c., are spread before the hen on the twenty-first day, she is induced to leave the nest, and the last hatched chicken, which are not perhaps yet dried, are unable to follow, and being weakly, perish; or unhatched eggs may be left.
Chickens don’t need food or water on the day they hatch; in fact, both can be harmful because they disrupt the natural digestion of the yolk, which gets absorbed into their intestines at hatching time and serves as their first meal. If you place grits, oatmeal, etc., in front of the hen on the twenty-first day, she may be tempted to leave the nest, and the last hatched chicks, which might not be fully dry yet, won't be able to follow and could die from weakness, or some eggs may be left unhatched.
If undisturbed, the hen seldom leaves the nest on the twenty-first day, and on the twenty-second the chicken will be found strong enough to follow her, and any unhatched eggs may be destroyed, for those chicken that are not then able to follow her will seldom be found to repay the trouble that may be taken with them. The plan of cramming peppercorns and other spices down the throats of chicken is cruel in the extreme, and moreover, exceedingly injurious. I have found the best food to be two-thirds sweet coarse oatmeal and one-third barley meal, mixed into a crumbly paste with water; this is very much relished, and the chicken make surprising progress upon it, they are also very fond of a little cold oatmeal porridge, and, by way of variety, I sometimes give them a few scalded grits dusted over with a little barley meal to cause them to separate.
If left alone, the hen usually stays on the nest until the twenty-first day, and by the twenty-second day, the chicks are strong enough to follow her. Any eggs that haven't hatched can be discarded because chicks that can't follow her by then rarely repay the effort it takes to raise them. Forcing peppercorns and other spices down chicks' throats is extremely cruel and very harmful. I've found the best food is two parts sweet coarse oatmeal to one part barley meal, mixed into a crumbly paste with water; they really enjoy this, and the chicks thrive on it. They also love a bit of cold oatmeal porridge, and to mix things up, I sometimes give them some scalded grits sprinkled with a little barley meal to help them separate.
Milk is frequently used to mix the barley or oatmeal, but from the extent to which it is then exposed to the air it soon becomes sour in summer, and is decidedly injurious if employed in that state; no more food, therefore, should be mixed with milk than can be eaten in a couple of hours. Sopped bread is by no means desirable, the chicken become weakly and affected with diarrhœa from its use, in fact it has not that degree of solidity which is requisite [Pg 21] to afford an opportunity for the exercise of the natural grinding action of the gizzard. A little chopped onion, or, still better, some finely shred green onion tops mixed with the food is highly advantageous, and, in the opinion of many persons, lessens very much the susceptibility to roup.
Milk is often used to mix with barley or oatmeal, but since it gets exposed to the air, it quickly turns sour in the summer, which can be harmful to consume. Therefore, no more food should be mixed with milk than can be eaten within a couple of hours. Soaked bread is not ideal; it makes chickens weak and can cause diarrhea, as it doesn't provide the necessary solidity for the gizzard's natural grinding action. A little chopped onion or, even better, some finely shredded green onion tops mixed into the food is very beneficial, and many believe it significantly reduces the risk of roup. [Pg 21]
With regard to animal food there is none equal to the natural supply of worms and insects obtained by the hen; small worms, or a barrow full of mould, containing an ant’s nest, may be given if the chicken are in a confined situation, and will be found far superior to boiled egg, chopped meat, or any more artificial substitute. Curds are frequently used, and, I believe, furnish the best substitute for the natural insect food, but I have had no experience in their use, as I have never kept, nor even think it desirable to keep fowls, or at all events to rear chicken, in situations where their natural food is unattainable. It is requisite that chicken should either have a constant supply of food or be fed at very short intervals—even every hour is not too often, if practicable.
When it comes to animal food, nothing beats the natural supply of worms and insects that hens can find. If the chicks are in a confined space, you can give them small worms or a bucket full of dirt with an ant's nest, which are way better than boiled eggs, chopped meat, or any other artificial alternatives. Curds are often used and, in my opinion, are the best substitute for the natural insect diet. However, I haven't used them myself since I’ve never kept, nor would I want to keep, chickens—or raise chicks—where their natural food is hard to find. It’s essential that chicks either have a consistent supply of food or are fed at very short intervals—even feeding them every hour is ideal, if possible.
Cooping, which is so frequently employed to restrain the wandering of hens with chicken, I regard as exceedingly objectionable. In many cases I admit it to be a necessary evil, but not the less an evil; a hen when cooped has no power of scratching for insects and worms (the best of all possible food), the chicken are therefore confined strictly to the artificial diet with which they are supplied. Whatever also may be the difference in the temperature of the day or change of weather, she cannot alter her position, or seek shelter from cold, wind, or wet; the ground under the coop becomes foul unless the latter is moved frequently, and the hen does not so soon recover the effects of her confinement in sitting as when she is allowed her liberty and obtains green food to peck at.
I find cooping, which is often used to keep hens with chicks from wandering, to be quite objectionable. In many cases, I admit it’s a necessary evil, but it’s still an evil. When a hen is cooped up, she can't scratch for insects and worms (the best possible food), so the chicks are limited to the artificial diet provided for them. No matter the temperature or weather changes, she can't change her position or find shelter from the cold, wind, or rain. The ground under the coop gets dirty unless it's moved frequently, and the hen doesn’t recover as quickly from the effects of being confined while sitting as she does when she's allowed her freedom and can peck at green food.
It is frequently said that when hens are not cooped they roam [Pg 22] so far that the chicken become fagged, and that oftentimes they are left behind by the hen. I believe that if the hen and chicken are well fed, and at short intervals, this will not occur; but should giving them their entire liberty be objectionable, the plan of enclosing a small run with laths, wire-work, or netting, may be had recourse to. These contrivances may be either moveable or fixed; in the latter case the ground in the run may be turned up with the spade or fork occasionally, so as to give the hens fresh soil to scratch in. Many persons say they cannot confine their fowls in this manner, as they fly over; a little attention to the habits of the birds would enable them to prevent this inconvenience. Fowls never fly over any boundary, but always on to it, preparatory to descending on the other side, and if the top is constructed in such a manner that they cannot rest upon it, they evince a great disinclination to attempt the passage. The plan I adopt is to have five or six feet laths of a greater or less degree of stoutness as required, nailed three inches apart to two horizontal rails, the lower near the ground, the upper being eight inches below the tops of the laths, which are pointed.
It's often said that when hens aren’t kept in coops, they wander so far that the chicks get tired and sometimes get left behind. I think that if the hen and chicks are well-fed at regular intervals, this won’t happen; however, if letting them roam freely is a concern, you might consider creating a small enclosure using wood, wire, or netting. These setups can be either movable or permanent; if they’re permanent, you can occasionally turn the soil in the run with a spade or fork to provide fresh ground for the hens to scratch in. Many people say they can't keep their chickens confined this way because they fly over; a little attention to their behavior can help prevent this issue. Chickens don’t fly over any barrier; they land on it first before hopping down to the other side. If the top is built so they can’t rest on it, they’re usually reluctant to try to cross. The method I use is to nail five or six-foot laths, spaced three inches apart, to two horizontal rails—the lower one near the ground and the upper one eight inches below the tops of the pointed laths.
I have found that this fence is sufficient to confine Dorking, Spanish, and even Hamburghs, but then the fowls have always an unlimited supply of every variety of food; and when I receive a bird I usually lighten one wing by running the scissors down each side of the ten primary quill feathers, which is a much better plan than cutting the shafts across, as in the latter case the bird is much disfigured.
I’ve found that this fence is enough to keep Dorkings, Spanish, and even Hamburgs contained, but the birds always have access to a wide range of food. When I get a new bird, I usually trim one wing by running scissors along each side of the ten primary quill feathers. This method is much better than cutting the shafts across, as the latter makes the bird look really bad.
In accordance with my suggestion, Messrs. Greening, of Church Gates, Manchester, have manufactured some of their patent fencing on the same plan, namely, spiked at the top and chicken proof below, as shewn in the cut; from experience I can recommend it as most efficient, and from its great strength and durability it is much more economical than the ordinary hexagonal pattern in common use.
Following my suggestion, Messrs. Greening, from Church Gates, Manchester, have produced some of their patented fencing based on the same design, which is spiked at the top and chicken-proof below, as shown in the image. From my experience, I can recommend it as very effective, and due to its strength and durability, it's much more cost-effective than the typical hexagonal pattern that's commonly used.

[Pg 23] During summer it is not requisite to remove the hen and chicken from these runs at night, but a little house made of a few boards nailed together, so as to resemble a dog-kennel, made water-tight, is necessary for shelter.
[Pg 23] In the summer, you don't need to take the hen and chicks out of the runs at night, but a small shelter made of a few boards nailed together to look like a doghouse, which is watertight, is necessary for protection.
Some of the most successful breeders of Cochins have their grounds thus partitioned out and furnished with rude huts, boarded at the sides and covered on the top with some of the patent asphalte felt now so much used for roofing. This, if properly [Pg 24] tarred, is perfectly waterproof, and being a bad conductor of heat, is warm in winter and cool in summer.
Some of the most successful breeders of Cochins have their properties divided into sections and equipped with simple huts, which are boarded on the sides and topped with some of the modern asphalt felt that's widely used for roofing now. When properly tarred, this material is completely waterproof, and since it doesn’t conduct heat well, it stays warm in winter and cool in summer. [Pg 24]
The common open circular wicker coop I regard as an exceedingly useful article in a poultry-yard, but not for the purpose to which it is generally applied, of keeping the hens in, but, on the contrary, for keeping them out. I have found it very convenient for feeding chicken under; the oatmeal, grits, and other expensive food used for the young birds is apt to be devoured by those of advanced growth, an evil which is readily prevented by placing it under a large coop which admits the younger chicken, and enables them to feed undisturbed by the others.
I think the common open circular wicker coop is really useful in a poultry yard, but not for its usual purpose of keeping the hens in. Instead, I find it great for keeping them out. It’s very convenient for feeding chicks underneath; the oatmeal, grits, and other costly food meant for the young birds often gets eaten by the older ones. This problem can easily be solved by placing it under a large coop that lets the younger chicks in while keeping the older ones out so they can eat peacefully.
The remark is often made, that chicken reared in the country by cottagers are more vigorous and healthy than those bred in the most expensive poultry houses; this I believe to be entirely owing to the more natural circumstances under which they are brought up. Fresh air, fresh grass, and fresh ground for the hens to scratch in, far more than counterbalance the advantage of expensive diet and superior lodging, if these latter are unaccompanied with the more necessary circumstances just described.
It's often said that chickens raised in the country by small farmers are healthier and more robust than those raised in luxurious poultry houses. I believe this is entirely due to the more natural conditions they grow up in. Fresh air, fresh grass, and fresh ground for the hens to scratch in outweigh the benefits of an expensive diet and fancy housing if those things don't come with the essential conditions I just mentioned.
The plans here recommended I found to be more than ordinarily successful during the most unfavourable chicken seasons, even on the cold clay soil in the neighbourhood of London, and I have there severely tested their perfect efficiency with regard to Cochins, Dorkings, Spanish, and Hamburghs.
The plans I recommend here proved to be exceptionally successful even during the worst chicken seasons, including on the cold clay soil around London, and I have thoroughly tested their effectiveness with regard to Cochins, Dorkings, Spanish, and Hamburgs.
In cases where fowls are bred in and in to preserve peculiar markings, or where, so to speak, a very artificial variety has been produced, great delicacy necessarily results; this, for example, is the case in the Sebright Bantam, and hardiness cannot be expected in such breeds; as well might the breeder of King Charles’ spaniels or Italian greyhounds expect similar success to that of the rearer of the Scotch terrier or sheep dog.
In situations where birds are bred in and in to keep unique markings, or where a very artificial variety has been created, great delicacy is expected; for instance, this is true for the Sebright Bantam, and you can't expect hardiness in such breeds. It would be just as unrealistic for the breeder of King Charles’ spaniels or Italian greyhounds to expect the same success as the breeder of Scotch terriers or sheepdogs.
[Pg 25] When chicken are hatched in the winter, or early spring months, either for competition in the chicken classes at the summer poultry shows, or for table use, some slight modification of these proceedings is requisite. I have tried enclosed rooms, both heated by stoves and fire-places and without, but have never found them answer, and am confident that even in winter chicken do better in an open shed than in any other situation; the shed, however, must face the south, and be warmly and closely sheltered from the north and east. The hens must be placed in coops, where all the sun can reach them; and there should be a little run of a few feet, enclosed by laths, wire-work or netting, for the hen and chicken to exercise in. The common triangular wooden coop is a very useful one for early chicken; but it should have a false bottom, to keep them off the cold ground, and this should be made to slide in and out, so as to be readily removed and cleaned. The coops, at night, should be warmly covered up with sacking or matting, and plenty of short hay or soft straw placed in the interior. The most successful breeder of early Cochins in the year 1853, reared all his birds in a shed thus arranged; but, instead of coops, he employed snugly built brick boxes, with abundance of short straw for the hen and chicken to sleep in; and in front of each box was a little alley or run, enclosed by laths, for an exercise ground,—the run not extending in front of the shed, so that it was not subject to be damped by the rain or dew.
[Pg 25] When chicks are hatched in the winter or early spring, either for competing in chicken classes at summer poultry shows or for food, some adjustments to the usual process are necessary. I have experimented with enclosed rooms, heated by stoves and fireplaces or without heat, but I have never found them effective. I’m convinced that even in winter, chickens thrive better in an open shed than anywhere else; however, the shed must face south and be well protected from the north and east. The hens should be placed in coops that get plenty of sunlight, and there should be a small run a few feet long, enclosed with laths, wire, or netting, for the hen and chicks to move around in. The common triangular wooden coop is very practical for early chicks, but it should have a false bottom to keep them off the cold ground, which should slide in and out for easy removal and cleaning. At night, the coops should be covered warmly with sacking or matting, with plenty of short hay or soft straw inside. The most successful breeder of early Cochins in 1853 raised all his birds in a shed arranged this way; however, instead of coops, he used snug brick boxes filled with short straw for the hen and chicks to sleep in. In front of each box, there was a small alley or run enclosed by laths, serving as an exercise area—the run didn’t extend in front of the shed to avoid getting wet from rain or dew.
Another precaution necessary to be taken with early chicken, even after they have attained some size, is to avoid letting them run in the grass whilst it is wet with dew, otherwise they are very apt to get chilled, and die with cramp. When hens are cooped care must be taken to supply them with gravel and a little mortar rubbish, or broken oyster shells,—the first being required for the digestion of the food, the second to furnish the materials of the bones of the growing chicken.
Another precaution to take with young chickens, even when they've grown a bit, is to prevent them from wandering in dewy grass, as they can easily get chilled and suffer from cramps. When hens are kept in a coop, it's important to provide them with gravel and some mortar debris, or crushed oyster shells—gravel is needed for digesting their food, while the shells supply essential materials for the bones of the growing chickens.
As I have elsewhere stated, the rearing of early chicken is always attended with risk and trouble, and extraordinary success must not be expected; it should only therefore be attempted under favourable circumstances; and unless chicken are bred for the summer poultry shows, or for early table use, for which purpose they fetch a high price in the market, it is not a desirable proceeding; for the best and finest birds, that alone should be kept for stock, are those hatched in April and May, as they attain their full size without having their growth once checked by cold.
As I’ve mentioned before, raising young chickens always comes with risks and challenges, and you shouldn’t expect exceptional results. So, it should only be done under good conditions. Unless the chickens are being bred for summer poultry shows or for early table use, which can fetch a high price in the market, it’s not a worthwhile endeavor. The best and finest birds, which should be kept for breeding, are those hatched in April and May, as they grow to their full size without being stunted by cold weather.
Chicken, on the contrary, which are hatched at a late period of the year, have their growth checked by the colds of winter, and consequently never make large birds; hence the practice of hatching Bantams in autumn to prevent their attaining a large size, an object which is only accomplished by a sacrifice of constitutional strength and hardihood.
Chickens that are hatched later in the year are stunted in their growth due to the cold of winter, so they never grow to be very big birds. This is why people hatch Bantams in the fall, to keep them from getting too large, but this is achieved at the cost of their overall strength and hardiness.
PROFITABLE VARIETIES.
In a work of this extent it is impossible to do more than allude to several of the least important varieties of the domestic fowl, and this is of less moment as the general directions given with regard to feeding, breeding, &c., apply, with very slight variations, to all the different breeds.
In a work this large, it's impossible to cover everything about the less significant types of domestic chickens, and this matters less since the general guidelines provided for feeding, breeding, etc., apply, with very few differences, to all the various breeds.

COCHIN CHINA HEN.
Cochin China Hen.
[Pg 26] Cochins or Shanghaes.—Cochins are perhaps the most popular fowl at the present time, and, in the opinion of many, deservedly take the first place on account of their good qualities as profitable stock, no less than from the estimation in which they are held as fancy fowls. So extensively have they been diffused over the entire length and breadth of the land, that a lengthened description of their peculiarities is scarcely requisite. Their large [Pg 27] size, peculiar crow, small wings, rudimentary tail, and the extraordinary development of the fluffy feathers of the thighs and under parts of the body are familiar to all; these remarkable characteristics are carried to an extreme degree in the bird shown in the engraving, which is a representation of an imported hen, formerly the property of Mr. Andrews. In purchasing Cochins for stock, care should be taken to obtain birds of good quality, as breeding from second and third-rate fowls will be found exceedingly undesirable. As regards size, the cocks should weigh at least 10lbs., the hens 8lbs., when full grown; they should be short on the legs, which should be yellow and well feathered down to the tips of the outer toes, which should only be four in number on each foot. The tail feathers should, in both sexes, be very small, and almost hidden by the dense mass of saddle feathers covering the back, and the fluff should be well developed.
[Pg 26] Cochins or Shanghais.—Cochins are probably the most popular chickens right now, and many believe they deserve the top spot because of their beneficial traits as valuable stock, as well as their appeal as fancy birds. They've spread so widely across the country that a long description of their unique features isn't really necessary. Their large size, distinctive crow, small wings, rudimentary tail, and the impressive fluffiness of their thigh and body feathers are well-known to everyone. These remarkable traits are taken to an extreme in the bird shown in the picture, which is an imported hen that used to belong to Mr. Andrews. When buying Cochins for stock, it's important to choose high-quality birds because breeding from lower-quality fowls can lead to poor results. In terms of size, roosters should weigh at least 10 lbs and hens 8 lbs when fully grown; they should have short legs that are yellow and well-feathered all the way to the tips of their outer toes, which should only be four on each foot. The tail feathers should be very small in both males and females, almost hidden by the thick layer of saddle feathers covering the back, and the fluff should be well-defined. [Pg 27]
With regard to colour, at present the fashion is entirely in favour of the light buff birds, which, to command the highest prices, must even be destitute of dark markings on the neck hackle; or any slaty tinge in the downy under portions of the fluff, or of the body feathers. The rage for light buff birds I regard as an undue prejudice, and believe the darker breeds will be found quite as valuable for farming stock; in fact, the extreme prices which are commanded by the lightest birds are simply owing to the difficulty of breeding them perfectly free from dark colour; and am confident that it has had a very injurious effect upon the breed; for size and form have been sacrificed in the endeavour to rear birds of the desired colour, and in too many instances a set of small leggy almond shaped hens have taken the place of heavy square-built short-legged birds of a darker colour.
Right now, the trend is all about light buff birds, which need to have no dark markings on the neck or any grayish tint in the soft underparts or body feathers to fetch the highest prices. I believe this obsession with light buff birds is an unfair bias, and I think the darker breeds can be just as valuable for farming. In fact, the high prices for the lightest birds are mainly due to the challenges in breeding them without any dark color. I'm convinced this has negatively impacted the breed because size and shape have been compromised in the effort to produce birds with the desired color. In too many cases, we've ended up with a bunch of small, unsteady, almond-shaped hens instead of the sturdy, heavy, short-legged birds that are darker in color.
The white birds, though exceedingly ornamental, are scarcely equal in character to the coloured varieties, and the black have hitherto been only produced by crossing a buff with a white, and, [Pg 28] as might be expected from such an origin, their progeny are very uncertain in their colour.
The white birds, while very decorative, don’t quite match the character of the colored ones, and the black birds have only been created by crossing a buff with a white. As you might expect from such a mix, their offspring have unpredictable colors. [Pg 28]
Putting aside the value of Cochins as fancy fowls, their chief importance as profitable poultry depends on the immense supply of winter eggs yielded by the pullets of the year. This, I am confident, will eventually be found their strongest recommendation; for table birds, their length of leg, small breast, and game-like flavour, are objectionable, and the colour of their skin renders them very unfit for being used as boiled fowls. The attempt to breed pure Cochins with a fuller breast I believe to be perfectly futile, their wings are so small in size that they never fly, and the muscles which move the wings and form the entire mass of flesh on the breast, are consequently of small size also; it would be as reasonable to expect the muscles of a blacksmith in the arms of a draper, as the plumpness of a Dorking on the breast of a Cochin. The hens are extremely good sitters, their large size enabling them to cover a great number of eggs, and their docility, and the readiness with which they sit in any situation in which they may be placed when broody, being also great recommendations. I have found that the eggs hatch remarkably well, and that the chicken are equally, if not more hardy than those of other fowl.
Putting aside the value of Cochins as fancy birds, their main importance as profitable poultry comes from the huge supply of winter eggs produced by the pullets of the year. I’m confident that this will eventually be their biggest selling point; in terms of meat birds, their long legs, small breasts, and gamey flavor are not appealing, and the color of their skin makes them very unsuitable for boiling. I believe trying to breed pure Cochins with fuller breasts is totally pointless; their wings are so small that they never fly, which means the muscles that move the wings and form most of the breast meat are also quite small. It would be as unreasonable to expect a blacksmith's muscles in a draper's arms as to expect a Dorking's fullness on a Cochin's breast. The hens are excellent sitters; their large size allows them to cover a lot of eggs, and their calm nature and willingness to sit anywhere when broody are also great advantages. I've found that the eggs hatch very well, and the chicks are just as hardy, if not more so, than those of other breeds.
In speaking of their good qualities, their contentedness in a comparatively small space, their attachment to home, and the ease with which they are confined by a three feet fence, must not be omitted. Their chocolate coloured eggs, though small, are of good flavour, but they have not yet been sufficiently introduced into the markets to state how they are appreciated by the public at large. With regard to their laying twice in one day, such an event happens by far too rarely to be taken into consideration when speaking of their economical value, and when it does occur no egg is laid on the following day. The great drawback [Pg 29] to Cochins, as farmers’ fowls, is the large quantity of food they require, which, notwithstanding all that has been said to the contrary by their exclusive admirers, is considerably greater than that consumed by other varieties, and their disposition leads them to remain at home instead of seeking for worms and other food in the fields; in fact, the old birds seem not to care for the large earth worms, which are so greedily devoured by all other fowls.
When talking about their good traits, we can't overlook their ability to be content in a relatively small space, their loyalty to home, and how easily they can be kept in by a three-foot fence. Their chocolate-colored eggs, although small, have a nice flavor, but they haven't been introduced enough in the markets to know how the general public feels about them. As for laying twice in one day, it happens too infrequently to really consider it when discussing their economic value, and when it does happen, no egg is laid the following day. The main disadvantage of Cochins as farm birds is the large amount of food they need, which, despite what their devoted fans may claim, is significantly more than what other breeds consume. Additionally, their temperament makes them stay at home rather than forage for worms and other food in the fields; in fact, the adult birds don’t seem to care for the large earthworms that other birds eagerly eat.
Brahma Pootras.—In the first edition of this book I inserted the description, from actual observation, of a pair of these birds that had been sent to this country from the United States, by Dr. Bennett, who claimed to be the original holder of the variety, and I left the question as to their being a distinct breed an open one; since that article was published a more extended experience and the opportunity of making anatomical examinations of very many specimens, have led me to form a decided opinion respecting their origin and true character.
Brahma Sons.—In the first edition of this book, I included a description, based on actual observation, of a pair of these birds that had been sent to this country from the United States by Dr. Bennett, who claimed to be the original holder of this variety. I kept the question of whether they are a distinct breed open; since that article was published, further experience and the chance to conduct anatomical examinations of many specimens have led me to form a clear opinion about their origin and true nature.
All the Brahmas that have come under my notice, and I have made a point of seeing as many as possible, have been of either one or the other of the three following varieties, namely:—
All the Brahmas I've encountered, and I've tried to see as many as I can, have been one of the following three types, specifically:—
- 1. Grey Cochins.
- 2. Cross-bred Cochin and Dorking.
- 3. Cross-bred Cochin and Malay, or Chittagong.
That the best of these birds are nothing more than grey Cochins, is proved by the fact that they have been frequently imported from Shanghae with the buff birds, ever since the latter have been introduced, and I know personally that the descendants of Grey Cochins, which were thus introduced into this country before the name of Brahma was ever heard of, have taken prizes as Brahma Pootras; the circumstance that those presented to the Royal Aviary were sent over from America as Grey Shanghaes would alone be sufficient to settle the question. As to the name which has been given to these birds, there is not one tittle of evidence [Pg 30] to prove that they ever came from the region of the Brahma Pootra river, which, in the lower part of its course, is within one hundred and fifty miles of Calcutta, running through territory which has long been in the possession of the British; further from its mouth it flows through the country of Assam, to which some years since the East India Company sent two most observant naturalists to report on the natural history of the region, and had any such remarkable fowls existed it is scarcely credible that they could have escaped observation. A further and even more conclusive proof, if one were needed, may be found in their anatomical peculiarities; it is a fact, universally recognized by comparative anatomists, that the distinguishing characters of nearly allied animals are more strongly marked in the bones of the skull than in any other part of the body; if the skull of a Cochin be examined there will be found in the frontal bone, exactly under the base of the comb, a deep narrow groove running from before backwards, this remarkable structure is peculiar to these birds, being found in no other variety whatever, and is as strongly marked in the first named variety of so called Brahmas as in the Buff Cochins.
The fact that the best of these birds are just gray Cochins is demonstrated by the frequent import of them from Shanghai along with the buff birds since the buff ones were first introduced. I personally know that the descendants of Gray Cochins, which were brought to this country before anyone had ever heard of Brahmas, have won prizes as Brahma Pootras. The fact that those sent to the Royal Aviary were shipped from America as Gray Shanghaes is enough to settle the matter. As for the name given to these birds, there's no evidence to show that they ever originated from the area of the Brahma Pootra river, which is about one hundred and fifty miles from Calcutta in territory that's been under British control for a long time. Further upstream, it flows through Assam, where the East India Company had sent two very observant naturalists years ago to study the local natural history. If such remarkable birds had existed, it is hard to believe they could have gone unnoticed. An even more convincing proof, if it is needed, can be found in their anatomical features; it is a fact, generally recognized by comparative anatomists, that the distinguishing traits of closely related animals are most pronounced in the bones of the skull compared to any other part of the body. If you look at a Cochins' skull, you’ll find a deep, narrow groove in the frontal bone right under the base of the comb running from front to back. This unique feature is exclusive to these birds and is as distinctly marked in this variety of so-called Brahmas as it is in the Buff Cochins. [Pg 30]
When it was found that grey birds were realising large sums, every mode of raising them was put in practice; single grey Cochins were mated with buff, and the progeny, when of the desired colour, were sold as Brahmas; in other cases Buff Cochins were paired with light Dorking hens, and many of the selected chicken found their way to the sale room. Under my own eye last season many of these birds were so manufactured; during the autumn, after the breeding for stock purposes was over, a Buff Cochin cock was allowed to run with some Dorking hens, the eggs of the lightest hen were hatched, and the Chicken were all greys, some were clear-legged, some white-legged, others five-toed; but several had well-feathered yellow legs with four toes, and these were undistinguishable [Pg 31] from a large number of the birds sold as Brahmas. On examination I found the frontal groove strongly marked, although, as might be expected, in a rather less degree than in a pure bred Cochin.
When it was discovered that grey birds were fetching high prices, every method of breeding them was tried out; single grey Cochins were mated with buff birds, and the offspring, when they had the right color, were sold as Brahmas. In other instances, Buff Cochins were paired with light Dorking hens, and many of the selected chicks ended up in the sale room. Right before my eyes last season, quite a few of these birds were produced; during the autumn, after the breeding for stock purposes was finished, a Buff Cochin rooster was allowed to run with some Dorking hens. The eggs from the lightest hen were hatched, and all the chicks were grey—some had clear legs, some had white legs, and others had five toes. However, several had well-feathered yellow legs with four toes, and these were indistinguishable from a large number of birds marketed as Brahmas. Upon closer inspection, I found the frontal groove prominently marked, although, as expected, to a slightly lesser degree than in a purebred Cochin. [Pg 31]
The birds originating in the Malay or Chittagong cross have been chiefly imported from America, I cannot therefore give the particulars of their manufacture, but the long snaky neck, the upright gait, and the peculiar carriage of the head, render other evidence unnecessary, These birds also have the characteristic frontal groove.
The birds from the Malay or Chittagong cross mostly come from America, so I can't provide details about how they're made. However, their long, snake-like neck, upright posture, and unique head position make further evidence unnecessary. These birds also have a distinct frontal groove.
After what has been stated, it will scarcely be expected that any lengthened description of these birds should be given. The best are simply Cochins, and as silver pencilled Shanghaes or Brahma Pootras, they were originally avowedly exhibited at the London shows. The Mongrels have every variety of form and almost of colour; from the most celebrated yards are shewn clear legs and feathered legs; yellow legs, and white legs; pea combs and single combs; white birds, grey birds, and even black birds, all pure Brahmas!! One person writes that they roam over acres, another authority states that they are more domesticated than Cochins; on the one hand, you hear of their laying eggs as large as those of turkeys, and on the other of their being of the average Cochin size; one day they are said to crow like their buff relations, and the next we hear that their voices are much more mellifluous.
After everything that's been said, it won't be surprising if there's no lengthy description of these birds. The best ones are simply Cochins, and the silver pencilled Shanghaes or Brahma Pootras were originally showcased at the London shows. The mixed breeds come in every shape and almost every color; from the most famous breeders, you can find birds with clear legs and feathered legs; yellow legs and white legs; pea combs and single combs; white birds, grey birds, and even black birds, all pure Brahmas! One person claims they roam over acres, while another expert says they’re more domesticated than Cochins; on one hand, they say they lay eggs as large as turkey eggs, and on the other hand, they’re said to be about the average size of a Cochin; some days they’re reported to crow like their buff relatives, and other days we hear that their voices are much sweeter.
My opinion of their merits and demerits may be stated in a few words; of the half breeds I will only say that they are worthless for stock purposes, as they do not breed true to any particular character; of the true grey Cochin I may state, as far as my experience goes, that they are generally leggy compared with the best bred buffs, and that in many of them there is a remarkable tendency (especially in the hens) to accumulate internal abdominal fat, or in other words to “go down behind” a state of [Pg 32] things generally terminating in irregularity of the egg organs, which running on into inflammation is frequently fatal; at the same time, however, I have no doubt but that by careful breeding for a season or two they may be produced in every respect equal to the buff birds; Dr. W. C. Gwynne, who has reared them longer than any other amateur in this country, states his conviction that the genuine strain are a very good variety of grey Cochin, without the slightest cross: this verdict respecting them, coming as it does from one of the greatest admirers and most successful rearers of Brahmas, will, I have not the slightest doubt, be eventually universally acquiesced in; with regard to their hardihood as chicken, I may state that the most successful rearer of Cochins in the year 1853, to whose plans I have already alluded, and who spared no expense in getting first rate stock, informs me that he has reared Brahmas and Cochins in the same brood, and that he has not found the former by any means the hardier variety.
My thoughts on their strengths and weaknesses can be summed up in a few words; as for the hybrids, I can only say they’re not worth anything for breeding since they don’t consistently produce any specific traits. Based on my experience with the true grey Cochins, I can say they tend to be lanky compared to the best-bred buffs, and many of them, especially the hens, have a noticeable tendency to accumulate internal abdominal fat, or in simpler terms, to “go down behind,” which often leads to irregularities in their egg-laying organs that can turn into inflammation and be fatal. However, I’m confident that with careful breeding over a season or two, they can be produced to be just as good as the buff birds. Dr. W. C. Gwynne, who has raised them longer than anyone else in this country, believes that the genuine strain is a very good variety of grey Cochin without any crossbreeding. I have no doubt that this opinion, coming from one of the biggest fans and most successful breeders of Brahmas, will eventually gain universal acceptance. Regarding their hardiness as chicks, I can mention that the most successful Cochin breeder in 1853, whose methods I've already mentioned and who spared no expense on top-quality stock, told me he has raised Brahmas and Cochins together in the same brood and found that Brahmas are not necessarily the hardier variety.
Dorkings.—To those who rear chickens for the table there are no fowls so well adapted as the coloured Dorkings; though not remarkable as layers, as sitters and nurses they cannot be surpassed; whilst their large size, plump breasts, short legs, and delicate white flesh, render them the most desirable table birds.
Dorkings.—For those who raise chickens for meat, there are no birds better suited than the colored Dorkings; while they may not be the best egg layers, they excel as sitters and caregivers. Their large size, plump breasts, short legs, and tender white meat make them the most sought-after table birds.

SPECKLED DORKINGS.
Speckled Dorkings.
Latterly much attention has been paid to this variety, and the result has been that great improvements in their size and good qualities have been effected. The engraving represents one of the old birds, of whom it has been truly said, “Their qualities surpass their charms.” In the improved kinds the head is smaller, the under part of the breast fuller, and the carriage of the bird more elegant, the body being more compact; the feathers are also firmer, and I have found along with this latter character that the birds are hardier and less subject to diseases of the egg organs. Dorkings vary very much in colour, and [Pg 33] there is some difficulty in breeding them true to any marking. My own opinion is decidedly in favour of the dark birds, both as to appearance and hardiness, and I think there are no more noble fowls than a heavy, broad-chested, dark Dorking cock and a compact short-legged hen. Dorkings are bred with both single and double, or rose combs, but the former are generally preferred, on the score of appearance. In purchasing Dorkings for stock, broad compact bodies and short white legs, with five toes on each foot, should be regarded as indispensable; the weight of these birds varies very considerably; in the pens which have taken prizes at the recent poultry shows the cocks have usually weighed about ten, and the hens eight pounds, but these weights are beyond the average, and such birds are not generally to be obtained.
Recently, there’s been a lot of focus on this breed, and as a result, significant improvements in their size and traits have been made. The illustration shows one of the older birds, which has been accurately described as, “Their qualities surpass their charms.” In the improved types, the head is smaller, the underside of the breast is fuller, and the bird’s posture is more elegant, with a more compact body; the feathers are also sturdier, and I've noticed that with this characteristic, the birds are hardier and less prone to diseases affecting the egg organs. Dorkings come in a wide range of colors, and it can be challenging to breed them to maintain specific markings. Personally, I definitely prefer the darker birds in terms of both looks and hardiness, and I believe there are no finer chickens than a heavy, broad-chested, dark Dorking rooster and a compact, short-legged hen. Dorkings can have either single or double (rose) combs, but the single combs are usually favored for their appearance. When buying Dorkings for breeding, broad, compact bodies and short white legs, with five toes on each foot, should be seen as essential; the weight of these birds can vary greatly; in the pens that have won awards at recent poultry shows, the roosters typically weigh around ten pounds, and the hens around eight pounds, but these weights are above average, and such birds are not commonly found.
The white Dorkings, although exceedingly ornamental, are not of equal value in an economical point of view, being much smaller in size, and narrower and longer in the body; they are almost invariably bred with a rose or double comb, and are obviously a distinct variety from the coloured Dorking, the latter having evidently derived its size, aptitude to fatten, and other profitable characteristics from the large Surrey fowl, which differs only from what is now known as the colored Dorking, in the absence of the fifth toe.
The white Dorkings, while very decorative, aren't as economically valuable because they are smaller and have longer, narrower bodies. They almost always have a rose or double comb and are clearly a different variety from the colored Dorking. The colored Dorking has obviously gained its size, ability to fatten, and other profitable traits from the large Surrey fowl, which only differs from what we now call the colored Dorking in that it lacks the fifth toe.
The great drawback to the value of this most useful breed is in the delicacy of the chicken; in spite of every care they too often exhibit the evil effects of a constitutional delicacy when about three weeks old, when their wings droop, and they die without any evident cause, whilst other birds hatched at the same time, and under the same treatment, are running about full of health and vigour. There is a very erroneous opinion, in many parts of the country, that Dorkings can only be successfully reared in Kent or Surrey; the absurdity of this statement is evident from the fact that the best Dorkings, those that have carried off the first prizes at the various poultry shows, have not, with few exceptions, been [Pg 34] natives of Surrey. The opinion has evidently arisen from their delicacy when chicken, and the fact that persons at a distance have often obtained a stock of Dorkings, and then without any introduction of fresh blood, they have continued breeding “in and in” until the breed has degenerated, not only in size, but in constitutional vigour; there is however no doubt but that on the dry chalky soil of Kent and Surrey they are more likely to do well than in any situation where the ground is wet or clayey.
The main downside to the value of this really useful breed is the fragility of the chickens; despite all efforts to care for them, they often show the harmful effects of inherent delicacy around three weeks old, when their wings droop and they die for no clear reason, while other birds hatched at the same time and given the same treatment run around healthy and full of energy. There’s a common misconception in many parts of the country that Dorkings can only be successfully raised in Kent or Surrey; the ridiculousness of this claim is clear from the fact that the best Dorkings, those that have won top prizes at various poultry shows, have mostly not been from Surrey. This belief seems to stem from their fragility as chicks, and the reality that people in distant locations often acquire a stock of Dorkings and, without introducing fresh blood, continue breeding "in and in" until the breed has weakened, not just in size, but also in overall vitality. However, it’s clear that on the dry, chalky soil of Kent and Surrey, they are more likely to thrive than in areas where the ground is wet or clayey.
Dorkings do not bear confinement well, requiring a good range; to attain a large size, and make good table birds, they must be liberally fed at every period of their lives, hence, and from the fact that they do not forage for themselves as well as the smaller varieties, they are not the best fowls for the cottager, especially as their egg producing powers are not remarkable.
Dorkings don't handle confinement well; they need plenty of space. To grow big and be good table birds, they need to be fed generously throughout their lives. Plus, since they don't scavenge for food as well as smaller breeds, they're not the best choice for someone with a small farm, especially since they don't lay a lot of eggs.
I have found that pullets hatched in April and May usually, if well fed, begin to lay about Christmas, and there is no difficulty in hatching in the beginning of February, although there is always some uncertainty about rearing the chicken in cold weather; but I have found that by cooping the hens in a shed open to the south they have done much better than in an enclosed room.
I’ve noticed that pullets hatched in April and May typically start laying around Christmas if they’re well-fed. There’s no trouble hatching them at the beginning of February, although it can be tricky to raise the chicks in cold weather. However, I’ve found that keeping the hens in a shed that's open to the south works much better than keeping them in a closed room.
To produce the fat fowls, that are seen in greater perfection in the London markets than elsewhere, and which are generally termed (although they are not) capons, Dorkings are cooped for fatting at the age of three to four months in summer and five to six in winter, being fed with oatmeal, mixed with water or milk; this must be given fresh three times a day, the first meal being early in the morning; and, in addition, the birds should be supplied with whole corn (either dry or boiled), gravel, clean water, and a turf or green meat; the most scrupulous cleanliness as to troughs, coops, &c., being observed. By these means a fowl, if previously well fed, will be fat enough for any useful purpose in a fortnight to three weeks; should they be required very fat, some mutton suet; or, what is equally good, the parings of the loins of mutton, [Pg 35] may be chopped up with the food. The unnatural process of cramming is frequently recommended, but I have never found it necessary. It should be borne in mind that a fowl cannot be kept in the greatest degree of fatness for any length of time, as the over repletion soon causes internal disease. The houses must be dry, quiet, dark, and warm, and the fatting coops carefully kept from draught, and warmly covered at night during cold weather.
To raise the plump chickens that you see looking their best in the London markets, which are often called (though they really aren’t) capons, Dorkings are kept in coops for fattening at three to four months old in summer and five to six months in winter. They are fed oatmeal mixed with water or milk, which should be given fresh three times a day, starting with an early morning meal. Additionally, they should receive whole grains (either dry or cooked), gravel, clean water, and some green grass or greens; the highest standards of cleanliness for troughs, coops, etc., must be maintained. With these methods, a chicken that has already been well-fed will be fat enough for any purpose in about two to three weeks; if they need to be really fat, some chopped mutton fat or the scraps from the mutton loins can be mixed in with their feed. The method of force-feeding is often suggested, but I’ve never found it necessary. It's important to remember that a chicken can't stay in peak fatness for long, as overeating will quickly lead to internal problems. The houses should be dry, quiet, dark, and warm, and the fattening coops should be shielded from drafts and well-covered at night during cold weather.
Spanish.—The true Spanish fowls, known by their uniform black colour, burnished with resplendant tints of green, the great development of comb and wattle, and the peculiar white face, which should be free from any other colour, are magnificent birds. Regarded as profitable poultry, their strong recommendation consists in the number and very large size of the eggs laid by them. The hens seldom attempt to hatch, and are bad sitters and nurses; their eggs should consequently be hatched by other varieties. The chicken are slow in feathering, but I have not found them so delicate as is sometimes stated, it is not however desirable to hatch them very early in the season, as they run about for a long time with naked necks and wings; and there is a remarkable difference in the fowls of the same brood, some being far superior in size and qualities to the remainder. In purchasing Spanish, blue legs, the entire absence of white or colored feathers in the plumage, and a large white face, with a very large high comb, which should be erect in the cock, though pendant in the hens, should be insisted upon. Although the flesh is of good quality, yet, from the want of size, the length and darkness of the legs, the Spanish is not equal to the Dorking for the table, and from the long period of their moulting, the laying in winter is considerably interfered with; nevertheless, the large size and number of their eggs renders them most profitable, and their handsome carriage and striking contrast of colour in the comb, face, and plumage recommend them to all; they are perhaps better adapted for a town fowl than any other variety, as when full grown they seem to suffer less from [Pg 36] confinement to a small run; not unfrequently exceedingly good specimens may be seen in the stable yards of London.
Spanish.—The true Spanish chickens, known for their uniform black color with shiny green highlights, prominent combs and wattles, and distinctive white faces that should have no other colors, are striking birds. Valued as productive poultry, their main appeal lies in the large number and size of the eggs they produce. Hens rarely try to hatch eggs and are not great sitters or caregivers; therefore, their eggs should be incubated by other breeds. The chicks are slow to feather, but I haven't found them as fragile as some say. However, it's not ideal to hatch them too early in the season, as they often run around for a long time with bare necks and wings. There's also a notable variation among chicks from the same brood, with some much larger and better in quality than others. When buying Spanish chickens, look for blue legs, no white or colored feathers in the plumage, a large white face, and a tall comb that should stand upright in roosters but hang down in hens. While their meat is good, they fall short of Dorking chickens in size and leg length, and their long molting period significantly affects winter egg-laying. Nonetheless, their large eggs and high quantity make them very profitable, and their elegant appearance and striking color contrast in the comb, face, and feathers appeal to everyone. They may be better suited as urban poultry than any other breed since, when fully grown, they seem to cope better with living in smaller spaces; often, you can find excellent specimens in London’s stable yards.
The price of very good white faced Spanish always ranges high, notwithstanding that they have been largely bred in this country for many years; this arises from the extreme uncertainty in the character of the chicken, for even when produced from eggs laid by first rate stock red faced birds constantly make their appearance, and these, though equally useful as layers, are of no value as stock birds; it may be remarked, that those cockerels and pullets are most promising that exhibit a long bluish skinny face, as this generally changes into pure white.
The price of high-quality white-faced Spanish chickens is always high, even though they've been bred in this country for many years. This is due to the unpredictability in the traits of the chickens; even when hatched from eggs laid by top-quality stock, red-faced birds often appear. Although they are just as useful for laying eggs, they are not valuable as breeding stock. It’s worth noting that cockerels and pullets that show a long, bluish, skinny face are usually the most promising, as this typically changes to pure white.
In the West of England, a variety of the Spanish known as Minorcas are much esteemed as profitable layers. They differ from their more aristocratic relatives in possessing a white ear lobe merely, the face being red, and in a somewhat more compact and less leggy form.
In the West of England, a type of Spanish chicken called Minorcas is highly regarded for being good layers. They differ from their more elite relatives by having only a white earlobe, while their faces are red, and they have a slightly more compact and sturdier body.

BLACK BREASTED RED GAME.
Black-Breasted Red Game.
Game Fowl.—This variety, formerly so extensively reared for the cock-pit, is still bred by many on account of its beauty and utility. The game cock is distinguished by a long head with a strong massive beak, and a single upright comb; the chest is prominent and fleshy, the whole body muscular, the carriage bold and erect, and the feathers particularly close and firm; the hens are remarkable for their neat appearance, and are characterized by a large erect fan-shaped tail. In colour this breed varies greatly, amongst the most esteemed strains are those known as the black breasted reds, the brown breasted reds or gingers, the various piles, a term applied to such as have a proportion of white in the plumage, duckwings, blues or grays, and white and black. Game fowl fly well, and a good grass run is absolutely essential to their well being; the hens usually lay about five and twenty buff colored eggs before wanting to sit, and are unsurpassed as mothers and nurses; both sexes are good foragers, supplying themselves with a great portion of their food. As table fowls they are small, [Pg 37] though plump, the quality of the flesh being very superior. The pugnacious disposition of the cockerels is much against them in a profitable point of view, and it is desirable to cut off their combs and wattles at the age of five or six months, otherwise, from fighting, much suffering and loss of blood ensues, this operation is usually performed with a pair of sharp scissors, and the application of a little green vitriol dissolved in water will be found immediately to check the effusion of blood.
Game Birds.—This breed, once widely raised for cockfighting, is still kept by many for its beauty and utility. The game cock features a long head with a strong, heavy beak, and a single upright comb; its chest is prominent and fleshy, the entire body is muscular, it stands tall and confident, and its feathers are particularly close and firm. The hens are noted for their tidy appearance and have a large, upright, fan-shaped tail. This breed comes in a variety of colors, with the most prized strains being the black-breasted reds, brown-breasted reds or gingers, various piles (which have some white in their plumage), duckwings, blues or grays, and white and black. Game fowl are good flyers, and a spacious grassy area is crucial for their health; hens typically lay around twenty-five buff-colored eggs before they want to sit, and they are excellent mothers and caregivers. Both males and females are great foragers, gathering a significant portion of their own food. As table birds, they are small but plump, with flesh quality being very high. The aggressive nature of the cockerels can be a downside for profit, so it's advisable to trim their combs and wattles at five or six months old; otherwise, fighting can lead to pain and loss of blood. This trimming is usually done with sharp scissors, and applying a bit of green vitriol mixed with water helps stop any bleeding immediately.
Hamburgh Fowls.—There are two very distinct varieties of these birds, the spangled and the pencilled; where fowls are kept mainly for the production of eggs, no breeds are so advantageous; and as they are comparatively unknown in many parts of the country, I have entered rather fully into their description. I am indebted to an amateur, an extensive breeder of the spangled variety, for the following account of their merits.
Hamburg Chickens.—There are two very distinct types of these birds: the spangled and the pencilled. When it comes to keeping chickens primarily for egg production, no breeds are as beneficial. Since they are relatively unknown in many areas of the country, I have provided a detailed description of them. I'm grateful to an enthusiast, a large breeder of the spangled variety, for the following description of their advantages.
“Gold and Silver Spangled Hamburghs.—These very beautiful varieties have not hitherto attracted the attention which their intrinsic merits so justly deserve. Indeed, except in the northern counties, they have been until lately almost unknown.
Gold and Silver Spangled Hamburghs.—These stunning varieties haven't received the attention they truly deserve based on their genuine qualities. In fact, outside of the northern counties, they were nearly unknown until recently.
“I will endeavour, as briefly as possible, to put before my readers, firstly, the origin, habits, and economical merits, and, lastly, the desired points of beauty of these dandies (par excellence) of the poultry yard.
“I will try, as briefly as possible, to present to my readers, first, the origin, habits, and economic benefits, and lastly, the desired beauty traits of these dandies (par excellence) of the poultry yard.
“Firstly as to their history and origin—Unlike the pencilled Hamburghs, which are imported wholesale from Holland, the spangled birds are never so obtained, and although similar in some of their habits, they are infinitely more hardy than their pencilled rivals, suffer less from cold, lay better in winter, and are far less subject to roup; they also attain to a considerably greater weight and size. I am myself rather inclined to consider them, as they have for years undoubtedly been, natives of our northern counties, more especially Yorkshire and Lancashire, although they are said to be common in Russia and the northern countries of [Pg 38] Europe. The Spangled Hamburghs, or Pheasant Fowls, as the north country breeders call them, are, in my judgment, the best and most regular layers I can recommend; but in this respect the gold and silver varieties somewhat differ. I have generally found that the pullets of the former variety commence laying at about six months old, and, if the season is moderately warm, they continue to lay about nine eggs a fortnight, until their moulting time the following year—I should say that on an average they lay about 200 eggs per annum. They are everlasting layers, in the strictest sense of the word, never sitting, and recommencing their labours of production about two months from the commencement of their moult. Their eggs are of a fair size, of a very light pinky brown colour, and excellent flavour. Indeed, in the latter quality the eggs of the Hamburgh fowls generally are not to be surpassed.
“Firstly, regarding their history and origin—Unlike the penciled Hamburghs, which are imported in bulk from Holland, the spangled birds are never obtained this way, and although they share some of the same habits, they are much hardier than their penciled counterparts, suffer less from cold, lay better in winter, and are far less prone to roup; they also grow to a significantly larger weight and size. I personally believe that they have, for many years, been natives of our northern counties, especially Yorkshire and Lancashire, although they are said to be common in Russia and northern countries of Europe. The Spangled Hamburghs, or Pheasant Fowls, as the northern breeders call them, are, in my opinion, the best and most consistent layers I can recommend; but in this regard, the gold and silver varieties differ somewhat. I have generally found that the pullets of the former variety start laying at around six months old, and if the season is reasonably warm, they continue to lay about nine eggs every two weeks until they molt the following year—I would estimate that they lay around 200 eggs per year on average. They are perpetual layers in the strictest sense, never brooding, and they resume their laying about two months after the start of their molt. Their eggs are a decent size, a very light pinkish-brown color, and have an excellent flavor. In fact, in terms of flavor, the eggs from Hamburgh fowls are hard to surpass.”
“It is the birds of silver variety, however, which I regard and recommend as perfect miracles of egg-producing constancy. They commence laying, if in good health and with a good run (an essential to the well-doing of both the varieties), at five months old, and generally lay at least six days out of the seven, until the moulting season arrives—in all probably some 250 eggs. They very quickly get their new plumage—and in six weeks recommence their labours with the same praiseworthy diligence, until another season passed warns them that moulting time is again at hand. After the second year I do not consider it advisable to keep them for laying purposes, although I think the best chicken are bred from them after that period with a young yearling cock.
“It’s the silver variety of birds that I see as true miracles of consistent egg production. They start laying eggs, if they’re healthy and have a good run (which is crucial for both varieties), at five months old, and typically lay at least six days a week until the moulting season comes—totaling around 250 eggs in all. They quickly regrow their feathers—and in six weeks they start laying again with the same impressive dedication, until another season indicates that moulting is approaching once more. After the second year, I don’t recommend keeping them for laying, although I believe the best chicks are produced from them after that, paired with a young yearling rooster.”
“Like their golden relations they never sit, and rarely evince the slightest desire to undertake the task of incubation. I feel quite confident that no fowl produces so much egg stuff with so small an amount of food. Give them a good run, a clean, dry, warm house at night, and one quarter of the food you bestow upon Cochins, and you will have no further trouble with them. They feather early and quickly, and may safely be hatched early in April.
“Like their golden relatives, they never sit and rarely show any interest in incubating. I’m pretty sure no bird produces so much egg stuff with so little food. Just give them plenty of space, a clean, dry, warm house at night, and a quarter of the food you give to Cochins, and you won't have any more problems with them. They feather quickly and can be safely hatched early in April.”
[Pg 39] “I must not, however, omit to state one drawback which there is to the keeping my spangled pets—they fly like pheasants, and know not bounds. They are great enemies to flowers, fruit, vegetables, indeed, anything they can lay hold of; and although capable of being made as tame as any other fowls, in their instincts they seem almost more like game than domesticated poultry. However, as a balance to this, there is no fowl so capable of taking care of itself, of finding its own food, of avoiding danger, and of repaying its owner handsomely for the slight care it demands at his or her hands. Indeed, I cannot recommend to a beginner in poultry-keeping a more beautiful and interesting, or a more profitable selection.
[Pg 39] “I must mention one downside to having my colorful pets—they fly like pheasants, and they know no limits. They are a real threat to flowers, fruits, vegetables, and pretty much anything they can get their beaks on; and while they can be tamed as well as any other birds, their instincts make them seem more like game birds than domesticated ones. On the upside, there’s no bird better at taking care of itself, finding food, avoiding danger, and rewarding its owner handsomely for the little bit of care it does need. Honestly, I can't recommend a more beautiful, interesting, or profitable choice for someone just starting in poultry-keeping.”
“There is much difference of opinion about the desired points of beauty in these birds. For the exact requirements in the north country shows I must refer my readers to the Rules of the Yorkshire Societies, and I will therefore confine myself to a brief and general description of what I consider requisite for perfection in these birds, and firstly as to the golden variety; although, with the exception of a few observations which I shall make about the cocks, the same points are almost requisite in both varieties.
“There are a lot of differing opinions about what makes these birds beautiful. For the specific standards for shows in the north, I would advise my readers to check the Rules of the Yorkshire Societies. I'll stick to a brief and general description of what I think is essential for perfection in these birds, starting with the golden variety. However, except for a few comments I'll make about the cocks, the same qualities are pretty much required in both varieties.”
“In the cocks, the comb should be flat, rose, stretching far back on the head, and ending in a pike—at least an inch and a quarter in width, and as square in shape as possible; the ear lobe white; the neck hackle in the golden variety, of which I am now speaking, black fringed with gold; the back, breast, and legs, regularly spangled, and the larger and brighter green black the spangles the better; the saddle feathers small and spangled; the tail long, full, and of a brilliant green black; the legs light grey blue; toe nails white. The same description applies to the hens, who should have a flat rose comb, not lopping, but upright; the ground colour of the plumage should be a rich red gold or burnt sienna colour. One great point of beauty also, both in the cocks and hens, is that [Pg 40] the wing should be regularly laced, as in the spangled Polands. The great difficulty in breeding the cocks is the tendency they have to come with black breasts and red backs—and for show such birds are valueless, although it is said more likely to throw good pullets than the spangled breasted birds which are sometimes termed hen-feathered. The silver spangled cock should not be hen-feathered, the hackle, and saddle feathers should be white, the latter very long, the tail spangled black and white, the breast regularly spangled up to the throat, and in colour the clearest white for the ground, and the brightest green black for the spangles is requisite. The lacing of the wing in this variety is quite a sine quâ non, both in the cocks and hens; and in the latter the tail should be clear white, with three or four large circular spangles upon it, but no other dark markings whatever. The neck, back, breast, rump, and legs, should be regularly spangled, and there should be a total absence of patchiness in the markings. In both varieties great distinctness of colour is requisite, and from the delicacy of the plumage the slightest approach to breeding in and in is sure to make the produce utterly valueless. In conclusion, the carriage of the cocks should be lofty and upright with the breast thrown forward like the Polands; the weight of the male birds from 5lb. to 6lb., of the hens from 4lb. to 5lb., or a little more.”
“In roosters, the comb should be flat and rose-shaped, extending far back on the head and ending in a spike—at least an inch and a quarter wide, and as square as possible; the ear lobe should be white; the neck hackle in the golden variety, which I'm referring to, should be black edged with gold; the back, breast, and legs should be regularly spangled, with larger and brighter green-black spangles preferred; the saddle feathers small and spangled; the tail should be long, full, and a brilliant green-black; the legs light grey-blue; and the toe nails should be white. The same description applies to the hens, who should have a flat rose comb that is upright, not drooping; the base color of the plumage should be a rich red gold or burnt sienna. A key point of beauty, for both roosters and hens, is that the wings should be regularly laced, as seen in the spangled Polands. A major challenge in breeding roosters is their tendency to develop black breasts and red backs—birds like this are worthless for shows, although it's said they are more likely to produce good pullets than the spangled-breasted birds known as hen-feathered. The silver spangled rooster should not be hen-feathered; the hackle and saddle feathers should be white, with the latter being very long, the tail spangled in black and white, the breast regularly spangled up to the throat, requiring a clear white ground color and the brightest green-black spangles. The lacing of the wing in this variety is absolutely essential, for both roosters and hens; in hens, the tail should be pure white with three or four large circular spangles on it, with no other dark markings whatsoever. The neck, back, breast, rump, and legs should be regularly spangled, with no patchiness in the markings. In both varieties, distinct color is necessary, and due to the delicacy of the plumage, any attempt at inbreeding will certainly lead to worthless offspring. In conclusion, the roosters should carry themselves high and upright, with their breasts pushed forward like the Polands; the weight of the males should range from 5 to 6 lbs., while the hens should weigh from 4 to 5 lbs., or a little more.”
There is, in addition to the gold and silver spangled, a third variety of these fowls, in which the whole plumage is of a glossy green black, the other characters being similar to those above described; these are termed Black Pheasant Fowls in the north of England.
There is, along with the gold and silver-spangled varieties, a third type of these birds, in which the entire plumage is a shiny green-black, with the other features being similar to those described above; these are called Black Pheasant Fowls in northern England.
The term pheasant fowl, as applied to the spangled Hamburgh, takes its origin from the crescentic moon shaped markings, which resemble those of that bird; and the term Moonies is also sometimes applied to them from the same cause.
The term pheasant fowl, referring to the spangled Hamburgh, comes from the crescent moon-shaped markings that look like those of that bird; and the term Moonies is also sometimes used for them for the same reason.
Pencilled Hamburghs.—This variety is also of two colours, [Pg 41] golden and silver, the hens in both should have the feathers of the body distinctly pencilled or marked across with several separate bars of black, the hackle in both sexes should be perfectly free from dark marks, the comb a piked rose, the ear lobe white, and the legs blue as in the spangled Hamburghs, the tail should be very large and black or bronzed. The cocks do not show these pencillings, but are white or brown in the silver or golden birds respectively. The birds are of a compact form, and very graceful sprightly carriage. They do not sit, but lay exceedingly well, hence one of their common names, that of Dutch every day layers, they are also known in different parts of the country as Chitteprats, Creoles, or Corals; Bolton bays and grays; and in some parts of Yorkshire by the erroneous name of Corsican fowls. Large numbers are imported from Holland, but the birds bred in this country are much superior in size, retaining, however, their profitable characteristics.
Pencilled Hamburghs.—This variety comes in two colors, golden and silver. The hens of both should have their body feathers distinctly penciled or marked with several separate black bars. The hackle in both males and females should be completely free from dark markings, the comb should be a pointed rose shape, the earlobe should be white, and the legs should be blue, just like in the spangled Hamburghs. The tail should be very large and either black or bronzed. The males don't show these pencillings; instead, they are white or brown, depending on whether they are silver or golden birds. These birds have a compact shape and a very graceful, lively posture. They don’t sit but lay exceptionally well, which is why they are commonly referred to as Dutch everyday layers. They are also known in different regions as Chitteprats, Creoles, or Corals; Bolton bays and grays; and in some areas of Yorkshire by the incorrect name of Corsican fowls. A large number are imported from Holland, but the birds bred in this country are much larger while still maintaining their productive traits.
Poland Fowls.—Poland fowls are characterized by the presence of a large top-knot, which, in the cocks, is composed of feathers resembling those of the hackle, and in the hens forms a dense globular tuft; a very small crescent shaped comb is usually present, rising like two small horns from the arched and dilated nostrils. Several varieties of colour exist; in the black birds there should be an entire absence of white except in the top-knot, in which the less black the better, the chest should be very prominent an fleshy, the legs dark, the wattles large and pendulous.
Polish Chickens.—Poland fowls are known for their large top-knot, which in roosters is made up of hackle-like feathers, while in hens it forms a dense round tuft. They usually have a tiny crescent-shaped comb that rises like two small horns from their rounded and enlarged nostrils. There are several color varieties; in the black birds, there should be no white except for the top-knot, where the less black, the better. The chest should be very prominent and fleshy, the legs dark, and the wattles large and hanging.
The spangled Polands, both gold and silver, are rather larger and less compact; and in addition to the crest, many possess a large tufted beard. Other varieties, as buff, white, &c., also exist, but they are less frequent. Polands are very good layers, but do not sit; as table birds they are not surpassed by any variety in quality and plumpness, although their small size is against them as a market fowl, and their delicacy as chicken is also a considerable drawback; from the latter circumstance, they will scarcely be [Pg 42] found entitled to rank as profitable poultry, except on dry, sandy, or chalky soil, and in warm, sheltered situations.
The spangled Polands, in both gold and silver, are larger and less compact. Along with their crest, many have a prominent tufted beard. Other colors, like buff and white, also exist, but they're less common. Polands are excellent egg layers, but they don't go broody. In terms of meat quality and plumpness, they can't be beaten, but their small size works against them as market birds, and their delicacy as chickens is a significant drawback. Because of this, they're rarely seen as profitable poultry, except in dry, sandy, or chalky soil and in warm, sheltered areas. [Pg 42]
Malay Fowls.—Malays are large leggy fowls, with a very upright carriage, small tail and clear legs, their heads and necks are long and snaky, and distinguished by a small warty comb; the hens are fair layers and remarkably good sitters and nurses. Malays are of almost every variety of colour, black, white, grey, &c., though the most common tint is a cinnamon brown. They are not as largely bred as formerly, for as egg producers they are not very profitable, and their large limbs are against their use as table fowls. What is termed the Pheasant Malay originates in a bad cross between the Malay and spangled Hamburgh, in which the good qualities of both breeds are sacrificed.
Malay Chickens.—Malays are large, long-legged chickens, with a very upright stance, small tails, and clean legs. Their heads and necks are long and slender, marked by a small warty comb; the hens are decent layers and excellent sitters and mothers. Malays come in almost every color, like black, white, gray, etc., but the most common shade is cinnamon brown. They are not raised as much as they used to be because they are not very profitable as egg producers, and their large size makes them less suitable as meat birds. The so-called Pheasant Malay results from a poor cross between the Malay and spangled Hamburgh, which compromises the good traits of both breeds.
Bantams, Silk Fowls, Frizzled and Rumpless Fowls, &c., &c., can hardly be regarded as profitable poultry, but come under the description of fancy fowls. As paying stock, my opinion is in favour of one or other of the following varieties:—
Bantams, Silkies, Frizzled chickens, and Rumpless chickens, etc., etc., are not really considered profitable poultry; they fall into the category of fancy fowls. In terms of making money, I believe one of the following varieties would be a better choice:—
For market fowls for table use, the coloured Dorking is unequalled.
For market birds used for food, the colored Dorking is unmatched.
For the production of eggs, Hamburghs where there is a free range; Cochins and Spanish where there is less space; the first being the best winter layers, the latter yielding the largest eggs.
For egg production, Hamburghs thrive in free-range setups; Cochins and Spanish do better in smaller spaces. The Hamburghs are the best winter layers, while the Cochins produce the biggest eggs.
Many persons recommend cross breeding fowls for the purpose of improving upon certain varieties; it is difficult to see by what cross the qualities of Dorkings, as table fowls, can be improved; or the superior laying properties of Hamburghs, Spanish, and Cochins, increased.
Many people suggest cross-breeding chickens to improve certain breeds; it's hard to understand how any cross could enhance the qualities of Dorkings as table birds, or boost the excellent laying abilities of Hamburghs, Spanish, and Cochins.
To improve the hardihood of Dorkings some very experienced persons have recommended crossing a Malay cock with Dorking hens; in this case care must be taken to kill all the cross-bred chicken, as, if bred from again, a set of variable, worthless mongrels are the result. I have myself, however, never seen any cross-bred fowls equal for the table to the pure Dorking.
To enhance the hardiness of Dorkings, some very knowledgeable people have suggested crossing a Malay rooster with Dorking hens. In this situation, it's important to ensure that all the cross-bred chickens are eliminated because if they're bred again, the outcome will be a bunch of inconsistent, worthless hybrids. Personally, though, I have never encountered any cross-bred chickens that are as good for eating as pure Dorkings.
For home consumption, yielding numerous eggs, and large size [Pg 43] chicken, Cochins are very valuable; their hardihood, docility, and matronly habits, enable a greater number to be reared from the same number of hens, than can be obtained from any other variety; but as poultry for the market they are of little value.
For home use, producing a lot of eggs and large chickens, Cochins are really valuable; their hardiness, calm nature, and nurturing instincts allow for more chicks to be raised from the same number of hens than with any other breed; however, they're not worth much as market poultry. [Pg 43]
In conclusion, I would strongly recommend persons who are at present breeding from common fowls, not to attempt to improve them by the introduction of one or two good male birds into the yard, but to obtain a good stock either by the purchase of birds or eggs, and to breed from them alone, avoiding of course all intermarriage between blood relations.
In conclusion, I highly recommend that people currently breeding common chickens should not try to improve their flock by introducing one or two good roosters into their yard. Instead, they should acquire a good stock by purchasing birds or eggs and breed from those alone, while avoiding any interbreeding between close relatives.
DISEASES.
The diseases of poultry may perhaps be more conveniently arranged under the heads of the different parts that are affected than in any more strictly scientific order. We may therefore describe them as affecting the Skin, Lungs and Air Passages, Digestive System, Egg Organs, Brain, and the Organs of Motion.
The diseases of poultry can be more easily organized by the specific parts they affect rather than in a strictly scientific manner. Thus, we can categorize them as impacting the Skin, Lungs and Air Passages, Digestive System, Egg Organs, Brain, and the Organs of Movement.
Skin Diseases.—When fowls are kept on unnatural food, and in closely confined, dirty situations, they are very liable to lose the feathers of the head and neck from a chronic disease of the skin. This complaint may be constantly seen in the fowls in the mews and stableyards in London, where it arises from the dirty, dark roosting places, and absence of fresh vegetable and insect food. Of course a radical cure is out of the question, unless the unnatural circumstances producing the disease are removed; if this is done, and a five-grain Plummer’s pill given on two or three occasions, at intervals of three days, the disease is speedily removed, but the feathers will not be replaced until the next moulting season.
Skin Conditions.—When birds are kept on unhealthy diets and in cramped, dirty environments, they are prone to lose the feathers on their heads and necks due to a chronic skin disease. This issue is commonly seen in birds at mews and stableyards in London, where it results from the filthy, dim roosting areas and lack of fresh vegetables and insects. Obviously, a complete cure is impossible unless the unhealthy conditions causing the disease are addressed; if that is done, and a five-grain Plummer's pill is administered two or three times with three-day intervals, the disease can be quickly resolved, but the feathers won't regrow until the next molting season.
In Cochins which have been highly fed, particularly if peas and greaves have formed part of their food, a somewhat similar [Pg 44] disease is often seen; and, as it commences with whiteness of the comb, it is frequently termed “white comb.” The treatment in severe cases is similar to that previously described; but mild attacks are said to yield to the application of turmeric mixed with cocoa-nut oil in the proportion of one part of the former to eight of the latter.
In well-fed Cochins, especially those that have eaten peas and greaves, a similar disease often appears; it usually starts with a whiteness on the comb, leading to the name “white comb.” The treatment for severe cases is similar to what was described earlier, but mild cases reportedly respond to a mixture of turmeric and coconut oil, using one part turmeric to eight parts coconut oil. [Pg 44]
Moulting, being a natural action, cannot be regarded as a disease, but it frequently is much delayed, and the birds evidently suffer in such cases; it is therefore desirable, when fowls are not moulting favourably, to treat them as invalids, giving them food which is more nourishing than usual, such as a little chopped meat, either raw or cooked, keeping them in a warm and sheltered habitation, &c.
Moulting is a natural process and shouldn't be considered a disease, but it often gets delayed, and the birds clearly suffer in those situations. Therefore, when chickens are not moulting properly, it's best to treat them like they are unwell. This means providing them with more nourishing food than usual, like some chopped meat, whether raw or cooked, and keeping them in a warm and sheltered environment, etc.
Lice often infest fowls to an extreme degree, and cause a great amount of irritation; this inconvenience may be prevented by giving them dry ashes to scuffle in, and keeping the houses clean and well lime-washed. When they are very abundant, flour of brimstone dusted under the feathers will be found a certain remedy; it is conveniently used if tied up in a piece of coarse muslin, or powdered from a flour dredger, or if more convenient, a pound or two may be added to the dust bath.
Lice often infest poultry severely, causing a lot of irritation. This problem can be avoided by providing them with dry ashes to scratch in and by keeping their living spaces clean and well-lime washed. When lice are very numerous, dusting flour of brimstone under the feathers will effectively treat the issue. It can be easily applied by tying it up in a piece of coarse muslin, using a flour dredger, or if it's more convenient, adding a pound or two to their dust bath.
Diseases of the Lungs and Air Passages.—Roup is the most serious disease occurring in the poultry yard, not only on account of its affecting large numbers at one time, but also from the fact that it is not easily subdued by medical treatment; great confusion and difference of opinion have occurred from several distinct diseases having been confounded under this name. True roup commences with a sticky discharge from the nostrils, at first clear, but afterwards thick and of a very peculiar and offensive smell, the nostrils become partially or entirely closed, and there is consequently some slight difficulty of breathing, and a distention of the loose skin of the under jaw may be noticed; froth frequently appears at the inner corner of the eye, the lids swell, and in severe [Pg 45] cases the sides of the face swell greatly, the fowl becoming blind; from the discharge being wiped on the feathers of the side and under the wing, they become matted together; and in addition to these symptoms there is extreme thirst. Roup is essentially a disease of the membrane lining the nose, similar in this respect to glanders in horses; I believe it to be highly contagious, and unless a roupy fowl is very valuable would recommend its being at once killed. I think the disease is often communicated by the discharge from the nostrils running into the water out of which the fowls drink. As to treatment, a roupy fowl should at once be removed from the yard, placed in a warm dry room, the nostrils and eyes sponged with warm water, and a solution of ten grains of blue vitriol to an ounce of water dropped into the nostrils, either from the front or through the slit in the roof of the mouth, warm stimulating food, as meal or bread and ale, and a little pepper should be given. Remedies given internally seem to have but very little effect on the disease, but I think I have seen more benefit from half a grain of blue vitriol given once a day in meal than from any other medicine.
Respiratory Diseases.—Roup is the most serious illness affecting poultry, not only because it can impact a large number of birds at once, but also because it's difficult to treat medically. There has been a lot of confusion and differing opinions due to several distinct diseases being grouped under this name. True roup begins with a sticky discharge from the nostrils that starts clear but later becomes thick and has a very strange and foul smell. The nostrils may become partially or completely blocked, leading to slight breathing difficulties, and you might notice swelling in the loose skin under the jaw. Frothy discharge can appear at the inner corner of the eye, the eyelids may swell, and in severe cases, the sides of the face can swell significantly, resulting in blindness for the bird. The discharge can get wiped onto the feathers on the side and under the wing, making them stick together; in addition to these symptoms, there is intense thirst. Roup primarily affects the membrane lining the nose, similar to glanders in horses. I believe it is highly contagious, and unless a bird with roup is very valuable, I recommend it be euthanized immediately. I suspect the disease is often spread through the discharge from the nostrils contaminating the water the birds drink. For treatment, a bird with roup should be removed from the yard and placed in a warm, dry room. The nostrils and eyes should be sponged with warm water, and a solution of ten grains of blue vitriol in an ounce of water should be dropped into the nostrils, either from the front or through the slit in the roof of the mouth. Warm, stimulating food, such as meal or bread with ale, along with a little pepper should be offered. Internal remedies seem to have very little effect on the disease, but I think I’ve observed more benefit from giving half a grain of blue vitriol once a day mixed in meal than from any other treatment.
Croup, from the similarity of its name is often confounded with Roup, from which, however, it is perfectly distinct, being inflammation of the wind-pipe, the symptoms are a difficulty of breathing and a rattling or peculiar noise in the throat, this, in some cases, is even musical; sometimes thick glairy mucus is coughed up, but there is never any swelling of the face or discharge from the nostrils, the disease is most frequent in damp weather, and yields readily to warm dry housing, and one-twelfth of a grain of tartar emetic.
Croup, because of its similar name, is often confused with Roup, but they are completely different. Croup is an inflammation of the windpipe, and its symptoms include difficulty breathing and a rattling or unusual noise in the throat. In some cases, this noise can even sound musical. Thick, sticky mucus may be coughed up, but there is no swelling of the face or discharge from the nostrils. This condition is most common in damp weather and responds well to warm, dry environments and a dose of one-twelfth of a grain of tartar emetic.
Inflammation of the lungs is known by a difficulty of breathing, but without the noise of croup, the same treatment with tartar emetic is advisable.
Inflammation of the lungs is recognized by difficulty in breathing, but without the noisy cough associated with croup, the same treatment with tartar emetic is recommended.
Consumption, arising from the presence of scrofulous matter in the lungs, is produced by cold, damp, bad food, and is also inherited [Pg 46] from parents; this disease being hereditary, it is worse than useless to attempt to cure fowls that are affected, as the chicken are certain to be tainted with the disease.
Consumption, caused by scrofulous material in the lungs, results from cold, damp conditions, poor diet, and can also be passed down from parents. Since this disease is hereditary, trying to treat affected birds is generally pointless, as their chicks will inevitably inherit the illness. [Pg 46]
Pip is the name given to a dry horny scale which appears on the tongue, in all those diseases in which the fowl becomes feverish; it is only a symptom of internal fever and not a disease itself, the remedy is to remove the real disease causing it.
Pip is the term used for a dry, hard scale that appears on the tongue during feverish illnesses in birds. It’s just a sign of internal fever, not a disease on its own. The solution is to treat the underlying illness that's causing it.
Gapes in chicken is caused by peculiar parasitic worms adhering to the inside of the windpipe; they are readily removed by stripping a small quill of its side feather, except an inch of the end, dipping it in spirits of turpentine, and inserting it in the wind-pipe; but as this remedy often excites fatal inflammation, I have suggested fumigation with the vapour of turpentine, by shutting the chicken up in a box, with some shavings moistened with the spirit, as long as they can withstand the action of the vapour, and the remedy has been found very successful.
Gapes in chickens is caused by specific parasitic worms that attach to the inside of the windpipe. They can be easily removed by taking a small quill, leaving an inch of the end feather intact, dipping it in turpentine, and then inserting it into the windpipe. However, since this treatment can often lead to serious inflammation, I suggest using fumigation with turpentine vapor instead. You can do this by placing the chicken in a box with some shavings that have been dampened with turpentine for as long as they can tolerate the vapor, and this method has proven to be very effective.
Diseases of the Digestive Organs are simple in their treatment. A fowl sometimes becomes crop-bound from overdistending that organ; warm water poured down the throat frequently loosens the mass; but, if necessary, a perpendicular incision may be made at the upper part of the swelling sufficiently large to extract the swollen food, and it will be found to close again without the slightest difficulty; the fowl should, however, be kept on soft food for several days afterwards. Inflammation of the stomach, which is situated between the crop and the gizzard, is a very frequent cause of death in highly fed fowls—they mope, refuse to eat, pine away, and die; there is no cure for the disease, but it is readily prevented by the use of natural food—peas, greaves, hemp seed, being rigorously excluded.
Digestive System Disorders are easy to treat. A bird can sometimes get crop-bound from overeating; pouring warm water down its throat often helps break up the blockage. However, if needed, a vertical incision can be made at the top of the swelling large enough to remove the trapped food, and it usually heals without any trouble. The bird should stay on soft food for several days afterward. Inflammation of the stomach, located between the crop and the gizzard, is a common cause of death in overfed birds—they become lethargic, stop eating, lose weight, and die. There’s no cure for this condition, but it can easily be prevented by feeding natural foods—excluding peas, fatty scraps, and hemp seed.
In Diarrhœa, five grains of chalk, two grains of cayenne, and five grains of powdered rhubarb may be given, and if the discharge is not speedily checked, a grain of opium and the same quantity of ipecacuanha may be administered every four or six hours.
In diarrhea, five grams of chalk, two grams of cayenne, and five grams of powdered rhubarb can be given, and if the discharge isn't quickly stopped, one gram of opium and the same amount of ipecacuanha can be given every four to six hours.
[Pg 47] Diseases of the Egg Organs.—The most important disease of these organs is inflammation of the egg passage, shewn by the laying of soft or imperfect eggs; this complaint is readily remedied by giving one grain of calomel and one-twelfth of a grain of tartar emetic, made into a pill with meal; sometimes soft eggs arise from a deficiency of lime, in which case, a little old mortar rubbish remedies the defect.
[Pg 47] Egg organ diseases.—The main issue with these organs is inflammation of the egg passage, which is indicated by the laying of soft or imperfect eggs. This condition can be easily treated by giving one grain of calomel and one-twelfth of a grain of tartar emetic, mixed into a pill with meal. Sometimes, soft eggs result from a lack of lime, and in that case, some old mortar dust can fix the problem.
The calomel and tartar emetic, which I first recommended for this disease in the Cottage Gardener, has been frequently given in other diseases, such as inflammation of the stomach, &c., and I need scarcely say with the effect of aggravating the evil very materially; there is no universal poultry medicine.
The calomel and tartar emetic, which I first suggested for this disease in the Cottage Gardener, has often been used for other issues, like stomach inflammation, etc., and I hardly need to mention that it often worsens the problem significantly; there is no one-size-fits-all poultry medicine.
Disease of the ovary, or organ in which the yolks are formed, is not unfrequent, when the comb and wattles become like those of the cock, and the hen crows frequently; such birds are generally but erroneously termed hen-cocks, they must not be confounded with the hen-feathered cocks spoken of in the article on Hamburghs.
Disease of the ovary, or the organ where the yolks are made, is not uncommon when the comb and wattles resemble those of a rooster, and the hen often crows; such birds are usually mistakenly called hen-cocks. They shouldn't be confused with the hen-feathered cocks mentioned in the article on Hamburghs.
Diseases of the Limbs.—Cramp in young chicken from exposure to cold and damp is very fatal to early hatches, it can be prevented only by warmth and dryness.
Limb Diseases.—Cramping in young chickens due to cold and damp conditions is very deadly for early hatches; it can only be prevented by providing warmth and dryness.
Leg weakness, which is most frequent in rapidly growing chicken and young birds, particularly Cochins, arises from a disproportion between the weight and strength of the animal, the bird in consequence, sinks down upon its hocks; I have found four or five grains of citrate of iron given daily in meal successful in every case in which I have employed it.
Leg weakness, which is most common in rapidly growing chickens and young birds, especially Cochins, happens because the weight of the animal outweighs its strength, causing the bird to sit back on its hocks. I've found that giving four or five grains of iron citrate daily in their feed has worked successfully in every case where I've used it.
Inflammation of the feet, closely resembling gout, I have seen in many cases, particularly in Cochins; the feet become very hot and swell. One grain of calomel at night and three drops of colchicum wine twice a day, I have found afford considerable relief.
Inflammation of the feet, similar to gout, is something I've observed in many cases, especially in Cochins; the feet become very hot and swollen. One grain of calomel at night and three drops of colchicum wine twice a day have provided significant relief.
The bumble foot of Dorkings, is a swelling occurring in the ball of the foot, not attended with heat, but followed by ulceration [Pg 48] and a diseased growth. I have found that it may, to a great degree, be prevented by having the perches broad and low, not above four feet in height, as the disease is evidently set up in many cases, and increased in all, by the violence with which the heavy birds descend to the ground; from the low vitality of the parts affected, I have found that no treatment is attended with any beneficial results.
The bumblefoot in Dorkings is a swelling that occurs in the ball of the foot. It doesn’t involve heat, but it can lead to ulceration and abnormal growth. I’ve discovered that it can largely be prevented by having the perches wide and low, no more than four feet high. The disease often starts and gets worse due to the impact when these heavy birds jump down. Because the affected areas have low vitality, I’ve found that no treatment really yields any positive results. [Pg 48]
Broken wings are best treated by tying the points of the quill feathers together in a natural position and keeping the bird in an empty place, where there is no perch to tempt it to fly. Broken legs may be bandaged round by strips of stout brown paper soaked in white of egg well beaten up with a fork, the leg should be kept steady by two splints of wood until the paper has become dry, when it will be found sufficiently firm to remain secure if wound round with a turn or two of thread.
Broken wings are best treated by tying the tips of the feathers together in a natural position and keeping the bird in an empty space, where there’s no perch to tempt it to fly. Broken legs can be wrapped with strips of strong brown paper soaked in beaten egg white. The leg should be kept steady with two wooden splints until the paper dries, at which point it should be firm enough to stay secure if wrapped with a couple of turns of thread.
Diseases of the Brain are not unfrequent in overfed fowls, apoplexy being the most frequent. The birds affected fall suddenly from their perches and are found dead. Little can be done in the way of cure; much in the way of prevention, by abstaining from unnatural food; in an actual attack, if the bird is seen before death, it may be bled by opening the vein on the under side of the wing, but the chances of recovery are but small. Paralysis also arises from the same cause. In vertigo, which depends on an undue determination of blood to the brain, the fowls run round and round or stagger about; letting a stream of cold water on the head immediately relieves, this should be followed by a grain of calomel or ten of jalap, in severe cases it may be necessary to open a vein.
Brain Disorders are not uncommon in overfed chickens, with stroke being the most common issue. The affected birds suddenly fall from their perches and are found dead. There’s little that can be done to treat them; however, prevention is key by avoiding unnatural diets. If a bird is seen before it dies, it might be bled by opening the vein on the underside of the wing, but the chances of recovery are minimal. Paralysis can also occur from the same cause. In cases of vertigo, which is due to excessive blood flow to the brain, the chickens may run in circles or stagger around; pouring a stream of cold water over their heads provides immediate relief. This should be followed by administering a grain of calomel or ten grains of jalap, and in severe cases, it may be necessary to open a vein.
In most of the older poultry books certain nostrums, as rue and butter, are constantly recommended; rue is a violent irritating stimulant, and I am not aware of any disease affecting fowls in which its use is at all likely to be productive of good effects.
In many older poultry books, remedies like rue and butter are frequently suggested; rue is a strong irritant stimulant, and I don’t know of any disease in chickens where its use is likely to have positive effects.
King, Printer, 63, Queen Street, Cheapside.
King, Printer, 63 Queen Street, Cheapside.
Transcriber’s Note:
Inconsistent hyphenation was not changed. Two misspelled words were corrected. One excess comma was removed. One final stop missing at the end of an abbreviation was added. A column key was added to the table on Page 13.
Inconsistent hyphenation was not changed. Two misspelled words were corrected. One extra comma was removed. One final period missing at the end of an abbreviation was added. A column key was added to the table on Page 13.
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