This is a modern-English version of "95% perfect" : The older residences at Nantucket, originally written by Crosby, Everett Uberto. It has been thoroughly updated, including changes to sentence structure, words, spelling, and grammar—to ensure clarity for contemporary readers, while preserving the original spirit and nuance. If you click on a paragraph, you will see the original text that we modified, and you can toggle between the two versions.

Scroll to the bottom of this page and you will find a free ePUB download link for this book.

[Pg 2]
Characteristic house

Characteristic Rear Ells and Lean-to

Rear Ells and Lean-to

[Pg 3]

“95 % PERFECT”

The Older Residences
at
Nantucket

The Historic Homes
at
Nantucket

Viewed and Analyzed
by
Everett U. Crosby

Reviewed and Analyzed
by
Everett U. Crosby


[Pg 4]

[Pg 4]

Copyright 1937
by
Everett U. Crosby

Copyright 1937
by
Everett U. Crosby


[Pg 5]

[Pg 5]

PREFACE

This book is dedicated to those who assist in keeping unmarred, the old Nantucket dwellings.

This book is dedicated to those who help preserve the historic Nantucket homes.

Its object is to be of assistance to that end.

Its goal is to help achieve that.

The drawings are by Mr. Alfred Shurrocks, photographs by the Pivirotto Studio, the printing by The Inquirer and Mirror Press—all of Nantucket Island, Massachusetts.

The drawings are by Mr. Alfred Shurrocks, photographs by the Pivirotto Studio, and the printing by The Inquirer and Mirror Press—all from Nantucket Island, Massachusetts.

The following organizations, while in no way responsible for the preparation of the book, or for the subject matter in it, wish to be herein recorded as in sympathy with a continued movement to preserve the architecture of old Nantucket in every possible detail:

The following organizations, while not responsible for creating the book or its content, want to be noted here as supportive of the ongoing effort to preserve the architecture of old Nantucket in every detail:

  • Nantucket Historical Association, Chas. E. Congdon, Pres.
  • Nantucket Civic League, William L. Mather, Pres.
  • Nantucket Plant Guild, Mrs. William Wallace, Vice Pres.
  • The Winter Club, Fred V. Fuller, Sec.

E. U. C.

E.U.C.


[Pg 6]

[Pg 6]

CONTENTS

Page
5. Preface
6. Contents
7. “95% Perfect”
8. Periods
8-9. Doing Over Old Houses
9-10. Analysis
11-12. Census
13. The Typical House
14. Description of the Drawings
15-19. Typical Houses: Drawings.
20-21. Window Frames and Sash: Drawings.
22-23. The Altered House: Drawings and Description.
24. Conflagration District of 1846: Map
25. Alterations
29. Early Influences
27-30. Details of Old Houses. Back side or Rear. Roof Coverings. White Trim. Blinds. Conductors. Front Doorway. Entry. Windows. Roof Walks. High Basements. Cupolas and Roof Balustrades. 95% to 85% Perfect.
31. Dated Houses
32. Conclusion
33-68. Photographs of Old Houses
69-74. Descriptions of Nantucket
1772—M. St. Jean de Crevecoeur: Letters From An American Farmer.
1791—Walter Folger, jun.
1792—Zaccheus Macy
1801—Josiah Quincy
1807—Anonymous
1811—Joseph Sansom; The Portfolio, Phila.
1850 (before and after)—Joseph E. C. Farnham: Memories of Boyhood Days on Nantucket.
1876—S. A. Drake: Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast.
1882—E. K. Godfrey
1924—Walter Prichard Eaton
75. Chimneys, Old and New: From a painting by Kwaiseki Sadakata.

[Pg 7]

[Pg 7]

“95% PERFECT”

This phrase was used by a writer several decades ago to describe the dwelling house architecture of the old town of Nantucket, and since then has been generally accepted. It symbolizes the state of mind of most people who come to this remote island town, traverse its streets and view its houses. They all sense that there is something in the mass or total of dwelling houses that is different from what they are accustomed to elsewhere. The effect is pervading, pleasing and peaceful. It causes them to picture a town of years ago remaining unchanged by the march of time.

This phrase was used by a writer many years ago to describe the house architecture of the old town of Nantucket, and since then it has been widely accepted. It represents the feeling of most people who visit this isolated island town, walk its streets, and admire its houses. They all feel that there’s something about the collection of houses that’s different from what they see elsewhere. The effect is all-encompassing, enjoyable, and calming. It makes them envision a town from years past that has stayed the same despite the passage of time.

Many of us instinctively realize in part the causes of this strong and lasting impression.

Many of us instinctively understand some of the reasons behind this strong and lasting impression.

First—The dwellings are mostly located close to the street, often directly on the edge of the sidewalk. They are not set back with yards or lawns in front.

First—The houses are mostly situated near the street, often right up against the sidewalk. They don't have yards or lawns in front.

Second—The breadth of the house usually occupies much of the lot so that adjacent houses are but a few feet, often a few inches, apart. The gardens, as well as the flapping clothes lines, the additions and the extensions, are at the rear; usually out of sight from the street. These rear (and side) ells and projections are a general characteristic of the old houses. Similar new additions if done in the proper way, with gable roofs or lean-to roofs, can be most pleasing.

Second—The width of the house typically takes up a lot of space on the lot, leaving neighboring houses just a few feet, and often just a few inches, apart. The gardens, along with the hanging clothes lines, additions, and extensions, are usually at the back; typically out of view from the street. These back (and side) extensions and projections are a common feature of older houses. Similar new additions, if styled correctly with gable roofs or lean-to roofs, can be quite attractive.

Third—Uniformity in architectural type, style, material and colors, within a limited range, is quite general and more responsible than any other single feature for the exceptional and unique ensemble. Elsewhere, in the off-islander’s hometown, each block or section is apt to have a medley of types, perhaps in close proximity—as an original colonial house and in succession a bungalow, a mid-Victorian and then a Georgian mansion, a gingerbread pattern house of the 1880 period, followed by a woman’s magazine suburban type, and perhaps many others. Each may be very good of its kind and suit the taste of its owner and belong in certain places. But the appeal at Nantucket is in not having enough of these varying styles to spoil the picture; hardly enough to mar it, in the old part of the town.

Third—Uniformity in architectural type, style, materials, and colors, within a limited range, is quite common and more responsible than any other single feature for the exceptional and unique look. In contrast, in the off-islander’s hometown, each block or section tends to have a mix of styles close together—like a colonial house next to a bungalow, a mid-Victorian, and then a Georgian mansion, followed by a gingerbread house from the 1880s, then maybe a suburban style from a women’s magazine, and probably many others. Each may be quite nice in its own way and appeal to its owner’s taste and fit in certain places. But the charm of Nantucket lies in not having enough of these different styles to disrupt the overall view; there are hardly enough to spoil it in the old part of town.


[Pg 8]

PERIODS

The architecture of the dwellings of Nantucket may be divided into three periods:

The architecture of the homes in Nantucket can be categorized into three periods:

The English mode of the settlers. This is the early Colonial; the lean-to type. Say, from the time of building the first houses up to about 1740.

The English style of the settlers. This is the early Colonial style; the lean-to type. From the time they built the first houses up to around 1740.

The next arbitrary division is the architecture of the Colonial and early Federal times, approximately, as far as Nantucket is concerned, dating from prior to the Revolutionary War to about 1830. Most of our old dwellings belong in this division.

The next arbitrary division is the architecture from the Colonial and early Federal periods, which for Nantucket means dating from before the Revolutionary War up to around 1830. Most of our old houses fall into this category.

Finally, the Classic period. Commencing about 1830 and continuing to about 1860, after which there was not much building of consequence of any dwellings which need to be considered here.

Finally, the Classic period. It started around 1830 and lasted until about 1860, after which there wasn’t much significant construction of houses that needs to be discussed here.


DOING OVER OLD HOUSES

Each year people from off-island, yielding to the lure of Nantucket, buy old houses, or occasionally build new ones, for seasonal occupancy. For many such the season is lengthening year by year. The spring and fall are glorious in this island climate. The diversions and occupations many and amply absorbing.

Each year, people from the mainland, drawn in by the charm of Nantucket, buy old houses or sometimes build new ones for seasonal use. For many of these individuals, the season is getting longer each year. Spring and fall are beautiful in this island climate. The activities and pastimes are numerous and very engaging.

Such people almost invariably want an “old” house. From an investment viewpoint alone an old or old-style house sells or rents much more readily and for higher prices than a modern-type structure. Many prospective customers will not look at the latter.

Such people almost always want an “old” house. From an investment perspective alone, an old or old-style house sells or rents much more easily and for higher prices than a modern-type structure. Many potential buyers won't even consider the latter.

There is a surprisingly large number of competent local carpenter-builders, masons, painters, plumbers and electricians resident on the Island. They can undertake and properly execute practically any work that is likely to be specified. Many of them are glad to assist in carrying out the old Nantucket traditions, but there have been some who frankly had no love for the old; building a house for themselves they would abandon every old feature; there have been a few with very unique ideas of what they call “antique;” so it is essential that strict care be exercised in making additions [Pg 9] or building new structures to see that the right designs and details are both adopted and executed.

There’s a surprisingly large number of skilled local carpenter-builders, masons, painters, plumbers, and electricians living on the Island. They can take on and properly complete almost any project you might need. Many of them are happy to help preserve the old Nantucket traditions, but some honestly have no appreciation for the old ways; when building a house for themselves, they would ditch every old feature. A few even have very unique ideas of what they call “antique.” So, it’s crucial to take great care when making additions or building new structures to ensure that the right designs and details are both chosen and executed. [Pg 9]

How can this much desired end be accomplished? It has been suggested that an illustrated book with simple analysis and exposition of this subject would help. This book is an endeavor to be of such assistance.

How can we achieve this highly sought-after goal? It has been proposed that a visual book with straightforward analysis and explanations on this topic would be beneficial. This book aims to provide that kind of help.


ANALYSIS

We herein concern ourselves only with the visible exteriors of dwelling houses as viewed from the street. The interiors of the houses and their furnishings are not treated; nor shops nor public buildings. It will be apparent also that this is not written for the architects, particularly those experienced in Nantucket traditions (there are such).

We are only focusing on the visible exteriors of houses as seen from the street. We won’t discuss the interiors of the houses or their furnishings, nor will we cover shops or public buildings. It should also be clear that this isn’t written for architects, especially those familiar with Nantucket traditions (and there are some).

We will not make the customary historical approach to our subject. It would over-emphasize what is not the primary purpose. Thus we are not concerned with the following:

We won’t take the usual historical approach to our topic. It would put too much focus on things that aren’t the main point. So we’re not going to discuss the following:

The temporary shelters built at Madaket about 1659.

The temporary shelters were built at Madaket around 1659.

The houses of the very first town. These were located at and in the vicinity of Capaum Harbour (now Pond) and Hummock Pond, on the north shore about one and a half miles from the present town. Only one, a lean-to type, remains.

The houses of the very first town were located at and around Capaum Harbour (now Pond) and Hummock Pond, on the north shore about one and a half miles from the current town. Only one, a lean-to type, remains.

Such of these houses or portions thereof which were taken down and removed to what is now the town of Nantucket.

Such houses or parts of them were taken down and moved to what is now the town of Nantucket.

The oldest remaining house, a lean-to dated 1686.

The oldest house still standing is a lean-to that dates back to 1686.

The one brick of the last quarter of the 18th century on Orange Street.

The single brick from the last part of the 18th century on Orange Street.

The seven brick houses of the second quarter of the 19th century with parapet brick end gables (six on Main Street and one on Pleasant Street). Also a number of large houses or mansions of about the same period built of wood.

The seven brick houses from the second quarter of the 19th century, featuring brick parapet gables (six on Main Street and one on Pleasant Street). There are also several large wooden houses or mansions from around the same time.

The two of temple columned type on Main Street.

The two with temple-style columns on Main Street.

The one classical type on Orange Street.

The only classic style on Orange Street.

These houses are the frosting on the cake but they are not the cake.

These houses are the icing on the cake, but they aren't the cake.

[Pg 10] They are all of great interest and will be viewed later herein, but they are too few to constitute the picture of Nantucket town as a whole, which consists of about 400 old houses.

[Pg 10] They are all very interesting and will be examined later in this document, but there are not enough of them to represent Nantucket town as a whole, which has around 400 old houses.

Then what are the kinds of houses which do constitute our old Nantucket? To find out, we have taken a census which analyzes each house on all or much of the length of most of the streets in the old sections, viz.: Union, Main to Flora; Orange, Main to Lyon; Fair, the entire length; Pleasant, Main to and including Moors End; Middle Main, Fair to the Monument; Upper Main, Monument to head of the street; Gardner, Main to Liberty; Liberty, near Centre to Gardner; Pearl, near Centre to North Liberty; Centre, Gay to West Chester; Lily, Centre to North Liberty; Academy Lane, Centre to Westminster; Gay, Centre to Westminster; Hussey, Centre to North Liberty; Quince, Centre to Westminster.

Then what kinds of houses make up our old Nantucket? To find out, we've taken a survey that looks at each house along most of the streets in the older areas, namely: Union, from Main to Flora; Orange, from Main to Lyon; Fair, the entire length; Pleasant, from Main to including Moors End; Middle Main, from Fair to the Monument; Upper Main, from the Monument to the end of the street; Gardner, from Main to Liberty; Liberty, near Centre to Gardner; Pearl, near Centre to North Liberty; Centre, from Gay to West Chester; Lily, from Centre to North Liberty; Academy Lane, from Centre to Westminster; Gay, from Centre to Westminster; Hussey, from Centre to North Liberty; Quince, from Centre to Westminster.

Omitted from this census are the thirty-six acres of the central district which were completely burned out by the conflagration of 1846 and therefore contain no structures over ninety years of age. It then, as now, included all of the business section. Many of the stores, as on Centre Street, were rebuilt quickly in an intended temporary manner, but the decline of the whaling industry and its attendant prosperity coinciding with this time, much of the temporary remained permanent. Fortunately, the numerous new styles had not arrived in 1846 and many of the dwellings built anew in the burned area were in the old taste, attractive and dignified. This area was bounded approximately by

Omitted from this census are the thirty-six acres of the central district that were completely destroyed by the fire of 1846, so there are no buildings over ninety years old. This area included the entire business section, just like today. Many of the stores, especially on Centre Street, were rebuilt quickly in what was meant to be a temporary way, but the decline of the whaling industry and its associated prosperity at that time meant that a lot of the temporary structures ended up being permanent. Luckily, the numerous new architectural styles hadn’t arrived in 1846, so many of the homes rebuilt in the burned area maintained the old style, which was attractive and dignified. This area was roughly bounded by

  • South Wharf and Salem Street,
  • Both sides of Main, Union to Orange,
  • Both sides of Centre, Rose Lane to Broad Street,
  • Both sides of Broad, Centre to No. Water (excluding Ocean House),
  • Both sides of North Water, Broad to Ash and Sea,
  • Eastward from all the above to the harbor.

Our drawing, numbered 17, shows the outline of this conflagration district.

Our drawing, numbered 17, shows the outline of this fire zone.


[Pg 11]

CENSUS

The purpose is to analyze each house in respect to a considerable number of predominant features so as to arrive at totals which will indicate the prevailing characteristics of the old houses. These are exterior features on the front of the house or conspicuously visible from the street.

The goal is to evaluate each house based on a significant number of key features to come up with totals that will show the common traits of the older houses. These features are located on the front of the house or are clearly visible from the street.

In these old districts we have tabulated 319 old dwellings, interspersed with 46 of modern or mixed design. As this includes about two-thirds of the old houses, it is representative of the whole as the rest are known to be of the same types.

In these historic areas, we have listed 319 old homes, along with 46 that are modern or have a mixed style. Since this accounts for about two-thirds of the old houses, it serves as a good representation of the entire collection, as the others are known to be similar in style.

Here is the list of features and the number of times each was recorded:

Here’s the list of features and how many times each was recorded:

  • Walls—wood 311; brick 8.
  • Exterior Surface of Front Wall—shingles 179; clapboards 132; brick 8.
  • Exposed Foundations—brick 246; stone 65; modern replacements 8.
  • Height of Foundation above Ground, viz., height of first floor above ground—
  • High (generally with 3 or 4 panes of glass vertically in basement windows) 140.
  • Low (generally 1 or 2 steps to first floor; without basement windows) 97.
  • Intermediate (between high and low) 82.
  • Number of Stories—two 271; one and one-half 30; one 16; three 2.
  • Roof Type—gable 287; lean-to 19; hip 8; gambrel 5.
  • Windows—total panes of glass in the two sashes—twelve 216; twenty-four 49; eighteen 4.
  • Modern viz., two or four 50.
  • Dormers in front roof—the narrow gable roof, old type 29; wide or with shed roof 23.
  • Roof Walks—35 Cupolas—14 Front Roof Balustrades—11.
  • [Pg 12]
  • Door Location—toward one side of the front 227; at center of front 92.
  • Chimney Location—central 132; to one side of center 109; near side of building 78.
  • Main chimneys were always of brick, generally with six or less flues, now plastered or painted above roof and located at or near the ridge at interior of building.
  • Modern Detractions—noted occasionally in the 319 old houses:
  • Modern windows of four or two sheets of glass—50
  • Modern piazza or porch, generally with flat roof—51
  • Modern front door—odd panels, golden oak, plate glass, etc.—46
  • Modern bay window—35
  • Slim chimneys—23
  • Hood over front door with fancy gingerbread detail—13
  • Large lattice arbor obscuring front door—8
  • Conspicuous “sun parlors”—12

Other features. It was gratifying to observe that the following did not appear at all on the old houses or with sufficient frequency to note:

Other features. It was satisfying to see that the following did not show up at all on the old houses or appeared with such low frequency that it was worth mentioning:

  • Fancy shingles—as in belts on walls and roofs or scalloped or diamond-shaped
  • Outside chimneys—including those of cobblestone
  • Gingerbread trim—except on hoods over front doors
  • Cement blocks—particularly those professing to simulate artificial stone
  • Conspicuous cement steps and walks to front door
  • Modern brick—such as the yellow and tapestry varieties
  • Conspicuous bright paint colors—particularly on blinds and doors

[Pg 13]

[Pg 13]

THE TYPICAL HOUSE

The conclusions from this analysis are inescapable, although they may never have occurred to us, viz.:

The conclusions from this analysis are unavoidable, even if we never considered them, viz.:

The vast majority of old Nantucket houses are of one type. Therefore it is this type that must largely make the picture of the town. This is it:

The vast majority of old Nantucket houses are of one type. Therefore, this type largely shapes the image of the town. This is it:

Wood walls, covered with shingles or clapboards, with the shingles weathered gray or painted. The colors of shingles (when painted) and of clapboards and trim are white, cream, gray, yellow or brown. White predominates. The exterior window and front door blinds (shutters) are painted dark green.

Wooden walls, covered with shingles or clapboards, with the shingles either weathered gray or painted. The colors of the shingles (when painted) and of the clapboards and trim are white, cream, gray, yellow, or brown. White is the most common. The exterior window and front door shutters are painted dark green.

Basement is high with walls of brick, painted or plastered and with windows of considerable size in these walls. This high basement is a distinctly Nantucket characteristic.

Basements are tall, with brick walls that are painted or plastered, and they have large windows in these walls. This high basement style is a unique feature of Nantucket.

Or to a somewhat less extent, the basement is low to the ground or somewhat so without any or sizeable cellar windows.

Or to a somewhat lesser extent, the basement is close to the ground or somewhat so without any significant cellar windows.

The house is two stories in height with attic.

The house has two stories and an attic.

Roof is gable type without dormers. The pitch of the gable roof is generally 9”, to 12” horizontal measurement but not less than 8” pitch.

Roof is a gable type without dormers. The pitch of the gable roof is typically between 9” to 12” horizontal measurement, but not less than an 8” pitch.

The chimney is brick, plastered or painted gray, massive, usually containing six flues, located near the ridge and at the center or to one side of the center.

The chimney is made of brick, covered in gray plaster or paint, large in size, typically featuring six flues, situated near the ridge and either at the center or slightly off to one side.

The front door is at one side of the center of the front or, less frequently, at the center.

The front door is on one side of the center of the front or, less often, directly in the center.

Windows are of two sashes (with 12 to 24 lights to a window), viz., from 6 to 12 lights to a sash. 12 to a window predominates on the front.

Windows have two sashes (with 12 to 24 panes per window), namely, from 6 to 12 panes per sash. 12 panes per window are more common on the front.

Such is our typical house.

This is our typical house.

This does not mean that the recognized old style variations from this predominant type are out of order. Far from it. Most excellent are low ledgestone foundations with or without plaster covering. One story, one and a half story and three story structures. Lean-to, gambrel and hip roofs. Interior end chimneys and small gable roofed front dormers.

This doesn't mean that the well-known older style variations from this main type are not acceptable. Quite the opposite. Low ledgestone foundations, whether or not they have a plaster covering, are highly regarded. There are one-story, one-and-a-half-story, and three-story buildings. Lean-to, gambrel, and hip roofs. Interior end chimneys and small gable-roofed front dormers.


[Pg 14]

THE DRAWINGS

Referring to that marked Nos. 1 to 9, it will be observed that No. 1 shows the front and side of a lean-to house of the 1st period. The settlers built lean-to houses. So did the next generations. Houses of one story, of one and one-half story and of two story height in front.

Referring to that marked Nos. 1 to 9, you'll notice that No. 1 displays the front and side of a lean-to house from the 1st period. The settlers constructed lean-to houses, and so did later generations. These houses were one story, one and a half stories, and two stories tall in the front.

All the other houses on the page are of the 2nd period; that is to say, the Colonial and early Federal times. It is obvious they are a natural development from the lean-to house.

All the other houses on the page are from the 2nd period; that is to say, the Colonial and early Federal times. It's clear they are a natural development from the lean-to house.

All have gable roofs except No. 8 with gambrel roof, and No. 9 with hip roof.

All have gable roofs except No. 8 with a gambrel roof, and No. 9 with a hip roof.

Drawing No. 10 shows a low basement house, with correct front door panels, lean-to projection and two-story ell.

Drawing No. 10 shows a low basement house, with accurately designed front door panels, a lean-to extension, and a two-story wing.

No. 11 is the more frequently found variety of the old houses, having the high basement peculiar to Nantucket, an off-side front door and center-central massive chimney. Note the wooden down spout conductors and four pane high, basement windows.

No. 11 is the most commonly seen type of the old houses, featuring a high basement typical of Nantucket, an off-center front door, and a large central chimney. Observe the wooden downspout pipes and the four-pane high basement windows.

No. 13. Here we see the correct small, gable roof, dormer windows and the walk at the roof ridge, access to which was gained through a trap door (skylight).

No. 13. Here we see the proper small gable roof, dormer windows, and the walkway at the ridge of the roof, which was accessed through a trap door (skylight).

Nos. 14 and 15. These illustrate the plank frames of windows. Observe the projection of the planks from the face of wall. These are an essential to a Nantucket house of old type.

Nos. 14 and 15. These show the wooden frames of windows. Notice how the planks stick out from the surface of the wall. These are a key feature of an old-style Nantucket house.

[Pg 15]
Houses 1 to 9

Nos. 1 TO 9

Nos. 1 to 9

[TN: Double-click to enlarge image]

[TN: Double-click to zoom image]

[Pg 16]
Number 10

No. 10

No. 10

[Pg 17]
Number 11

No. 11

No. 11

[Pg 18]
Number 12

No. 12

No. 12

[Pg 19]
Number 13

No. 13

No. 13

[Pg 20]
Number 14

No. 14

No. 14

[Pg 21]
Number 15n

Older Windows Circa 1725-1760

Older Windows 1725-1760

No. 15

No. 15

[Pg 22]
Title or description

The Altered House

The Changed House

No. 16

No. 16


[Pg 23]

[Pg 23]

THE ALTERED HOUSE

Drawing No. 16

Drawing __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

This shows what was once a perfect Nantucket house but successive owners have altered it till nothing of the original remains in view except two windows. Somebody raised the house and used artificial stone cement blocks in the foundations as well as in the battlemented steps to the piazza which has giant columns resting on miniature anti-rot pipe supports holding up a large flat roof which but partly conceals a huge exterior cobblestone chimney.

This shows what was once a perfect Nantucket house, but over time, different owners have changed it so much that nothing of the original architecture is visible except for two windows. Someone raised the house and used artificial stone cement blocks for the foundations as well as the decorative steps leading up to the porch, which features large columns supported by small anti-rot pipe brackets, holding up a big flat roof that only partly hides a massive cobblestone chimney on the outside.

Cement steps and galvanized iron pipe hand rails lead up to the golden oak front door containing a large beveled plate glass, all surmounted by a hood held up by supporting brackets of jig-saw design.

Cement steps and galvanized iron pipe handrails lead up to the golden oak front door with a large beveled plate glass, all topped by a hood supported by decorative brackets.

A belt of fancy scalloped and diamond-shaped shingles extends across the front wall and large sheets of glass replace the small window panes. There is a large bay window.

A strip of decorative scalloped and diamond-shaped shingles runs along the front wall, and oversized sheets of glass take the place of the small window panes. There's a big bay window.

At the far side a “sun parlor” transforms that end of the structure and a wide shed roof dormer completely changes the main roof.

At the far side, a "sunroom" changes that end of the building, and a wide shed roof dormer totally alters the main roof.

We do not intend to comment adversely on these changes in respect to their individual merits, our purpose being to point out that one cannot make them and retain an old house.

We don’t intend to criticize these changes based on their individual merits; our goal is to highlight that you can’t make them and still keep an old house.


[Pg 24]
Destroyed by fire

Section of Town Destroyed by Fire 1846

Part of Town Destroyed by Fire, 1846

No. 17

No. 17


[Pg 25]

[Pg 25]

ALTERATIONS

We have a precious inheritance in this large group of old houses. Every effort should be made to keep from harming them when making changes, and to keep from building dissimilar types of new houses in the old built-up sections. There is ample room outside of the old districts or elsewhere on the Island for those who determine to build a place of modern appearance. Yet one can ride a hobby too hard. The complete purist is often impracticable. One living in an old house wants to be comfortable and to have adequate space. There is hardly an old house in town which has not on its visible exterior—at least somewhere on its four sides—the marks of modernizing as made by succeeding generations. Fortunately the fronts as a rule have been but little marred.

We have a valuable heritage in this collection of old houses. We should do everything possible to protect them during renovations and avoid building mismatched new homes in the historic areas. There's plenty of space outside the older neighborhoods or elsewhere on the Island for those who want to construct modern-style houses. However, we can be too rigid in our preservation efforts. The absolute purist approach is often unrealistic. Someone living in an old house wants to feel comfortable and have enough space. Almost every old house in town has some signs of modernization on its exterior—at least on one side. Luckily, the front facades have usually remained relatively untouched.

Nantucket can be kept “95% perfect” only by not adding to the visible detractions on its old houses, and by not building new types amidst the old. Thus this priceless inheritance will be preserved—and incidentally the values increased—as such houses become less and less procurable here and elsewhere. We even venture to hope some of the present detractions will be removed as time goes on.

Nantucket can stay "95% perfect" only by avoiding any visible damage to its old houses and not constructing new styles alongside the old ones. This way, this invaluable heritage will be preserved—and, by the way, the values will rise—as these houses become harder to find both here and elsewhere. We even hope that some of the current issues will be fixed over time.

So far as more room and modern comforts are concerned, an architect or builder knowing his old Nantucket can usually plan to provide them in “doing over” an old house and still not harm its exterior. But all hope is lost if the roof lines are spoiled by large shed-roof dormers or a dormer room, and only less disfiguring are large “sun parlors,” piazzas, exterior chimneys, or flat roofed ells or projections, built where visible from the front.

As for creating more space and modern comforts, an architect or builder familiar with the old Nantucket typically knows how to renovate an old house without ruining its exterior. However, if the roof lines get messed up by big shed-roof dormers or a dormer room, all hope is lost. Large sunrooms, porches, exterior chimneys, or flat-roof extensions that are visible from the front are also less appealing alterations.

To bring home what we mean—imagine that a conflagration sweeps this town and destroys it. The land would remain, the climate, sea bathing, sailing, outdoor and indoor sports, and the moors. Inevitably, however, a part, probably a small part, would be built up anew and there could be no possible control of the styles. We would then have a small village like any other modern one along the Atlantic seaboard, entirely devoid of quaintness, charm or interest. Nantucket would then be in its second decline, perhaps just as severe as after the end of the whaling.

To illustrate what we mean—imagine a huge fire sweeping through this town and destroying it. The land would still be there, along with the climate, the beaches, sailing, outdoor and indoor activities, and the moors. But inevitably, a part of it, likely just a small part, would be rebuilt, and there would be no way to control the architectural styles. We would then have a small village like any other modern one along the Atlantic coast, completely lacking in charm, character, or interest. Nantucket would then be facing its second decline, possibly just as severe as it was after the whaling industry ended.


[Pg 26]

EARLY INFLUENCES

It is interesting to contemplate what influenced our prevailing architecture. First, as in many other affairs, it was the almighty dollar. In the 18th century, and much of the first quarter of the 19th, there was little spare cash available on this Island. That which was accumulated, and more, was needed for outfitting ships. Hence the houses were built inexpensively and of moderate size.

It’s fascinating to think about what shaped our current architecture. First, like in many other areas, it was the mighty dollar. In the 18th century and for much of the first part of the 19th, there wasn’t much extra cash on this Island. What little was saved, and even more, was necessary for equipping ships. As a result, the houses were built cheaply and were of moderate size.

Second, the Quakers put their indelible stamp on Nantucket houses, particularly those built from 1750 to 1825. Worth tells us the Society of Friends reached its highest tide of membership and influence on the Island a few years prior to the opening of the 19th century. At this time the population of Nantucket was about 5,600 and nearly one-half attended Friends Meeting. The most potent cause of the decline of Quakerism was the enforcement of their discipline. They required utmost simplicity and utmost plainness in detail of their houses. He recites an event which took place as late as 1790, when Job Macy was building his house on Mill Street. When his father discovered that the plan was to erect a house of two stories, both front and rear, without a lean-to and a long north sloping roof, he expostulated with Job for the innovation and vowed that if the house was built in the new style as proposed he would never enter it, and tradition is that he never did. An incident of the same nature and of about the same time is reported by Hussey. When a certain house near Stone Alley was being erected from frames made on the mainland, it was found to be upright all around, the back two stories high like the front and so without the regulation long back roof. To some of the Islanders this caused uneasiness, as being likely to introduce change and extravagance. A citizens’ meeting was convened and the owner requested to cut down the back posts. Good man as he was, he complied.

Second, the Quakers left a lasting mark on Nantucket homes, especially those built between 1750 and 1825. Worth informs us that the Society of Friends reached its peak membership and influence on the Island just before the 19th century began. At that time, Nantucket had a population of about 5,600, and nearly half attended Friends Meeting. The main reason for the decline of Quakerism was the strict enforcement of their rules. They demanded extreme simplicity and plainness in the design of their homes. Worth recounts an event from as late as 1790 when Job Macy was building his house on Mill Street. When his father found out that the plan was to build a two-story house with no lean-to and a long sloping roof at the back, he expressed his disapproval to Job for this innovation and declared that if the house was built in the proposed new style, he would never enter it, and it's said that he never did. A similar incident from around the same time is reported by Hussey. When a house near Stone Alley was being built using frames made on the mainland, it turned out to be upright all around, with the back two stories high like the front and lacking the required long sloping roof at the back. This caused some concern among the locals, as it seemed likely to bring changes and excess. A citizens' meeting was held, and the owner was asked to shorten the back posts. Even though he was a good man, he went along with it.

Third, relative affluence, when it came, was derived from or had its origin in the sea. It was possessed by the ship captains and ship owners. They were influenced by the balance and carpentry of ships. This extended to their dwellings. During the latter part of the prosperity period, approximately from 1825 to 1860, some of these men had [Pg 27] become merchants and capitalists. They enjoyed themselves on shore and built the few mansions with which we are familiar.

Third, when it arrived, relative wealth came from or originated in the sea. It belonged to the ship captains and ship owners. They were shaped by the design and craftsmanship of ships, which extended to their homes. During the later part of the prosperous period, around 1825 to 1860, some of these men became merchants and capitalists. They indulged themselves on land and built the few mansions we know today. [Pg 27]


DETAILS OF OLD HOUSES

Back Side or Rear of Houses. Fortunately most of these are not seen from the street, due to the proximity of adjacent houses. This is the first place for extensions and additions, such as a first floor kitchen with its small chimney, more sleeping rooms, and if one must or needs, and the compass points allow, a “sun parlor,” a columned piazza, French doors, wide dormers, even (but we hope not) the dormer room in the rear roof, and pergolas. If understanding care is exercised, part of this can be well done.

Back Side or Rear of Houses. Fortunately, most of these areas aren’t visible from the street because they’re blocked by nearby houses. This is usually where extensions and additions happen, like a first-floor kitchen with a small chimney, extra bedrooms, and if necessary and if the layout allows, a “sun parlor,” a columned porch, French doors, wide dormers, and even (though we hope not) a dormer room on the back roof, and pergolas. With thoughtful planning, this can be done nicely.

Roof Coverings. Regret it as one may, but quite properly under the fire ordinances, wood shingle roofs are fast disappearing, with the shadow lines cast by the thick shingle butts. It is, however, feasible to use individual non-inflammable shingles of dark gray or black which are inconspicuous, and if one has the price and inclination and strength of rafters, an asbestos reproduction of old shingles, absolutely faithful to type and attractive, is available and should be employed, as see the house at 86 Centre Street.

Roof Coverings. As unfortunate as it is, wood shingle roofs are rapidly disappearing due to fire regulations, along with the shadow lines created by the thick shingle ends. However, it's possible to use individual fireproof shingles in dark gray or black that blend in nicely. If someone is willing to spend the money, has the inclination, and has strong rafters, there's an asbestos version of old shingles that is exactly like the original and looks good, which should be used, as seen in the house at 86 Centre Street.

White Trim. We venture to make note of the largely prevailing present custom of painting white the exterior trim of houses, including particularly the window casings, referring only to the houses where the exterior walls are not painted white but are of shingles, weathered gray. This has the effect of outlining the windows and the edges of the facades with extreme emphasis. Attention is directed to those weathered gray shingled houses where, instead, the trim has been painted in harmony and not in sharp contrast to the gray. For this purpose some shades of gray paint have been used, and in some of the older houses a dull brown. The owner of such a gray shingled house, planning to re-paint the exterior, should look at the examples referred to and consider whether they would please his taste. In the early days of paint a red color was used, doubtless appearing as a dull reddish brown. In altering very old houses it has been [Pg 28] found on the exterior of the beveled boards which were the outside of the wall when no shingles or clapboards were used.

White Trim. We want to point out the common trend of painting the exterior trim of houses white, particularly the window casings, specifically referring to houses with exterior walls that are not painted white but are made of weathered gray shingles. This creates a striking outline around the windows and edges of the facades. Attention is drawn to those weathered gray shingled houses where the trim has been painted in harmony rather than in sharp contrast to the gray. For this, some shades of gray paint have been used, and in some older houses, a dull brown. The owner of a gray shingled house considering a repaint should look at the examples mentioned and think about whether they would suit their taste. In the early days of painting, a red color was likely used, probably appearing as a dull reddish brown. In renovating very old houses, it has been found on the exterior of the beveled boards that were the outside of the wall when shingles or clapboards weren’t used. [Pg 28]

Blinds. The louvered (slanted slat) blinds on exterior walls at windows and front doors began to come into use about 1840. They certainly do dress up a house but otherwise have little or no use at Nantucket. A really old house is in the best of taste without them and with a saving of expense. Always (on an old house) they should be painted a dark green. The earliest were quite heavy, without moveable louvers. Most now in existence are lighter weight and usually with tilting slats, an unnecessary provision. Solid paneled shutters, general in many parts of the country, as at Philadelphia, were not used at Nantucket.

Blinds. The slatted blinds on exterior walls at windows and front doors started to be used around 1840. They definitely enhance a house's appearance but have little or no practical use in Nantucket. A truly old house looks its best without them, and it saves money too. They should always be painted a dark green on an old house. The earliest versions were quite heavy, without movable slats. Most that exist today are lighter and usually have tilting slats, which are unnecessary. Solid panel shutters, common in many parts of the country, like Philadelphia, were not used in Nantucket.

Conductors. Fortunately, modern sheet metal down spouts from gutters to take the water down to or under ground are inconspicuous. They have been freely used to replace the older spouts which have decayed. It is, however, feasible, desirable and quite inexpensive to replace with wooden down spouts of either circular or square section like the originals.

Conductors. Thankfully, modern sheet metal downspouts that carry water from gutters to the ground or below are discreet. They have been widely used to replace the older, deteriorated spouts. However, it’s practical, beneficial, and fairly affordable to switch to wooden downspouts, either round or square, just like the originals.

Front Doorway. This opening into the house was closed by a door of six raised panels with flush mouldings, the topmost pair of panels small, and very seldom taken out and replaced with glass. A characteristic of these doors was that the middle rail was wide, almost 10”, with the bottom rail much narrower. Many of the old doorways had no glass about them, but as time advanced glass was used across the top of the doorway, spoken of as a top light or transom, and glass was employed vertically on either side of the door, known as sidelights. Very infrequently at Nantucket the muntins of the top light radiate from the center to either a circular or oval top, known as a fanlight.

Front Doorway. This entrance to the house was closed off by a door featuring six raised panels with flat moldings, where the top two panels were small and rarely replaced with glass. A notable feature of these doors was the wide middle rail, nearly 10 inches, while the bottom rail was much narrower. Many of the old doorways did not have any glass around them, but as time went on, glass was added above the doorway, referred to as a top light or transom, and glass was also used vertically on either side of the door, known as sidelights. In Nantucket, it was quite rare for the muntins of the top light to radiate from the center into either a circular or oval shape at the top, called a fanlight.

Architectural ornamentation on the exterior wall surrounding the doorway, known as the frontispiece, was not employed in the older houses, many of which had plain plank frames with a header, but after the Revolution the [Pg 29] frontispiece came more and more into use, but even then was not highly ornate. Many frontispieces now seen on the old houses were added in the period from 1800 to 1850 and followed the designs in English architectural books. Recessed doorways appeared in the classic period, accompanied by fewer panels and heavier mouldings. Plain double-boarded outside doors were undoubtedly used in the oldest houses. Paneled doors appeared in Nantucket probably about 1730.

Architectural decoration on the exterior wall around the entrance, known as the frontispiece, wasn't used in older houses, many of which had simple plank frames with a header. However, after the Revolution, the frontispiece started to become more popular, though it wasn't very elaborate. Many frontispieces seen on these older houses were added between 1800 and 1850, inspired by designs from English architectural books. Recessed doorways emerged in the classic period, featuring fewer panels and thicker moldings. Simple double-boarded exterior doors were definitely used in the oldest houses. Paneled doors likely appeared in Nantucket around 1730. [Pg 29]

Entry. The modern name for this is vestibule. Reference is to the enclosed projection over the front door infrequently found on the old houses. This had a gable roof and sometimes side windows. It generally entered directly into the stairway hall or, in older times, into the kitchen. It usually occurred that entries were not constructed with the original house but added subsequently.

Entry. The modern term for this is vestibule. This refers to the enclosed space that extends out over the front door, which is rarely seen in older houses. It usually had a gable roof and sometimes had side windows. It typically led directly into the stairway hall or, in earlier times, into the kitchen. Often, entries were not built together with the original house but were added later.

Windows. At Nantucket, prior to about 1720, leaded panes were used. From then on to around 1790 small panes, about 5” × 7”, were used with wooden muntins, and mostly three lights wide. From about 1790 to about 1825 glass was generally about 7” × 9” with 24 lights, except that many narrow panes were used with less number of lights. Muntins grew smaller as time advanced. From about 1825 on, 12 lights were mostly used, with 8” × 10” and 10” × 14” glass, almost invariably 3 lights wide. The large panes (sheet glass) came into general use soon after the Civil War, about 1865, using one or two such panes to a sash. While our census shows in the old houses a large proportion having but 12 panes to a front window, it is a fact that in a majority of these houses part or all of the side windows and the rear windows are apt to be of 24 panes. Therefore at some period the front windows had been replaced to conform to the even then changing mode and the improved financial status of the owner, or frequently second-hand material was employed in building a new house, when old multi-paned sash was used at the rear and the sides while new 6-light sash were built for the front.

Windows. At Nantucket, before around 1720, they used leaded panes. From then until about 1790, they used small panes, about 5” × 7”, with wooden muntins, mostly three lights wide. From around 1790 to about 1825, glass was generally about 7” × 9” with 24 lights, although many narrow panes had fewer lights. Muntins got smaller over time. After about 1825, 12 lights were commonly used, with 8” × 10” and 10” × 14” glass, almost always three lights wide. Large panes (sheet glass) became common soon after the Civil War, around 1865, using one or two of such panes per sash. While our census shows that many old houses have only 12 panes for the front window, it's true that in most of these houses, some or all of the side and rear windows are likely to have 24 panes. So, at some point, the front windows were replaced to match the then-changing style and the owner’s improved financial status, or often second-hand materials were used to build a new house, with the old multi-paned sash at the rear and sides while new 6-light sash were made for the front.

Window frames on old houses were of plank and projected from the wall. See drawings No. 14 and No. 15. It is [Pg 30] most important to faithfully continue this practice in all alterations and new construction. The Nantucket carpenters are accustomed to make such frames.

Window frames on older houses were made of planks and stuck out from the wall. Check out drawings No. 14 and No. 15. It is [Pg 30] crucial to keep this practice going in all renovations and new builds. The carpenters in Nantucket are used to making these kinds of frames.

Roof Walks. You will observe from quotations of old writings to be found later in this book that they were most frequent. They are not today, our analysis showing but 35 in a total of 319 houses. It has been stated that after the decline of whaling these walks were taken down when they got out of repair and since they no longer served a useful purpose. They were called “walks,” and for the purpose of identification they are here spoken of as roof walks. How the late William F. Macy decried their being called “captains’ walks” or “widows’ walks!”

Roof Walks. You'll see from quotes of old texts found later in this book that they used to be quite common. They aren't so much anymore, as our analysis shows only 35 out of 319 houses actually have them. It has been said that after whaling declined, these walks were removed when they fell into disrepair because they no longer served a practical purpose. They were referred to as “walks,” and for clarity, this term is used here as roof walks. The late William F. Macy criticized their being called “captains’ walks” or “widows’ walks!”

High Basements. The massive chimneys were frequently of large area at the lowest level. This was for a bake oven and cooking fireplace, located in the basement. These basements extended several feet above and below the ground level, with ample windows, generally four panes high, and contained the kitchen, sometimes spoken of as the winter kitchen. The basements were sheltered from the wind and cold during the winter season.

High Basements. The huge chimneys were often quite large at the lowest level. This was for a bake oven and cooking fireplace located in the basement. These basements extended several feet above and below ground level, with plenty of windows, usually four panes high, and had the kitchen, sometimes referred to as the winter kitchen. The basements were protected from the wind and cold during the winter season.

Cupolas and Roof Balustrades. These were not employed here until about 1800, mostly 1830 to 1860, and are not much in evidence.

Cupolas and Roof Balustrades. These were not used here until around 1800, primarily between 1830 and 1860, and they aren't very noticeable.

“95% Perfect.” Manifestly this was a generalization to crystallize an impression, yet our census analysis of 365 houses in the old districts shows but 46 modern or mixed type, intermingled; say 12½%. On the old houses we find various added modern detractions, frequently several kinds on one house, but many of them not serious. So let us estimate that these old-district dwellings are still 85% perfect—an astonishingly large percentage of unharmed oldness to be found in this day and generation in over 400 closely grouped houses. We have much to be thankful for.

“95% Perfect.” Clearly, this was a way to sum up an impression, but our analysis of 365 houses in the older neighborhoods shows only 46 that are modern or mixed type, which is about 12½%. In the old houses, we notice various modern changes added, often several types on one house, but many of them aren’t too serious. So let’s estimate that these older homes are still 85% perfect—an impressively high percentage of preserved oldness to find today in over 400 closely grouped houses. We have a lot to be thankful for.


[Pg 31]

DATED HOUSES

Many exterior features assist in suggesting the approximate date or origin of an old house and a knowledge of what is behind the exterior would allow a more accurate conclusion. But this information is not needed for our purposes.

Many outside features help indicate the rough date or origin of an old house, and knowing what’s behind the exterior would allow for a more precise conclusion. But this information isn’t necessary for our purposes.

We would like to say, however, that fixing a precise year date for the building of a house is most difficult here in Nantucket, just as it has been found to be, for those attempting to do so, in respect to old houses at off-island locations. There is no evidence of building material being derived from trees growing on this Island except by the early settlers. Statements found in early writings speak of house frames being brought from the mainland. There is knowledge of much timber and lumber and shingles being brought, principally from Maine, but also from New Hampshire and Massachusetts. Packets made frequent voyages to Maine in the early days. Even firewood was brought from the mainland. Hence, second-hand building material was saved and used again and even again, including window-sash and doors. Houses were frequently moved in whole or in part. There are many larger and more expensive houses on the sites of smaller, older ones. Occasionally houses were removed to make room for lawns and to give more light and air to the remaining houses. In the years after the decline and demise of the whaling industry, great numbers were taken down and the material shipped away, often to distant points, or used for local firewood. As an illustration, Messrs. George C. Gardner and Allen Smith are reported to have taken down some 270 houses during a decade or more after the Civil War, many being sent to Cape Cod, at times cut into bays and shipped on deck.

We want to point out, though, that determining the exact year a house was built is really challenging here in Nantucket, just like it’s been for others trying to do the same with old houses elsewhere. There’s no evidence of building materials coming from trees on this Island except for those used by the early settlers. Old writings mention house frames being brought over from the mainland. It’s known that a lot of timber, lumber, and shingles were brought here, mainly from Maine, but also from New Hampshire and Massachusetts. Ships frequently made trips to Maine in the early days. Even firewood was imported from the mainland. As a result, recycled building materials were often repurposed multiple times, including windows and doors. Houses were often moved, either completely or partially. Many larger and more expensive homes now stand where smaller, older ones used to be. Sometimes houses were removed to create lawns and allow more light and air for the remaining homes. In the years following the decline of the whaling industry, lots of houses were demolished and the materials shipped away, often to far-off places, or used for local firewood. For example, George C. Gardner and Allen Smith reportedly took down about 270 houses over a decade or so after the Civil War, many of which were sent to Cape Cod, sometimes cut into sections and transported on deck.

Old Deeds and Wills record a certain lot of land “with house thereon.” Frequently, this causes the present-day [Pg 32] owner to willingly assume that his present “house thereon” is the same. The number of houses out of this 319, where evidence could be adduced which would stand in a court of law, showing the year in which the existing house was built, are very few. But what of it, so long as we do not fool ourselves. The error in fixing the precise date of the building of a house is well described by Worth in Nant. Hist. Assn. V. 2, Bul. 5, which might be read to advantage by those who set much store in exact dates.

Old Deeds and Wills record a certain piece of land “with a house on it.” Often, this leads the current owner to mistakenly believe that their existing “house on it” is the same one. The number of houses out of this 319, for which there is evidence that could hold up in court showing the year when the current house was built, is very small. But so what, as long as we don’t deceive ourselves. The challenge in determining the exact date a house was built is well explained by Worth in Nant. Hist. Assn. V. 2, Bul. 5, which would be beneficial for those who place a high value on precise dates.


CONCLUSION

Simplicity, directness, proportion, balance and truth of expression are the fundamentals of this architectural style. In our modern, quantity production, machine age, with forms and materials largely new and constantly changing, old Nantucket town offers to many whose taste is not for the restless experimental new but for the proven old, a haven of rest, peace, comfort and constant delight.

Simplicity, straightforwardness, proportion, balance, and honest expression are the core principles of this architectural style. In today's era of mass production and machines, where forms and materials are mostly new and always evolving, the old town of Nantucket provides a refuge for those who prefer the reliable charm of the past over the chaotic novelty of the present—a place of rest, peace, comfort, and enduring joy.


[Pg 33]

THE PHOTOGRAPHS

Sufficient houses have been photographed to illustrate fully the text. They have been well chosen for this purpose but are no more interesting, in their oldness, than the much greater number which we regret not showing, due to a limit of size for this book.

Sufficient houses have been photographed to fully illustrate the text. They have been well chosen for this purpose but are no more interesting, in their oldness, than the much greater number that we regret not showing, due to a size limit for this book.

Here you will find houses of the three periods with all the described characteristics: old and new; good and bad.

Here you will find homes from the three periods, featuring all the described characteristics: old and new; good and bad.

The architectural details desired are shown as viewed in November and May. Admittedly, much more charming views of a number could be obtained from different angles or distances or when the foliage is on and the shadows present.

The architectural details wanted are shown as seen in November and May. It's true that much more appealing views of many could be obtained from different angles or distances, or when the leaves are on and the shadows are visible.


[Pg 34]
15 Pearl St

15 Pearl St.

15 Pearl St.

[Pg 35]
109 Main St.

109 Main St.

109 Main St.


19 Liberty St

19 Liberty St.

19 Liberty St.

[Pg 36]
Academy Hill

Academy Hill

Academy Hill


58 Fair St.

58 Fair St.

58 Fair St.

[Pg 37]
3 Academy Lane

3 Academy Lane

3 Academy Lane


43 Centre St

43 Centre St.

43 Centre St.

[Pg 38]
47 Centre St

47 Centre St.

47 Centre St.


51 Centre St

51 Centre St.

51 Centre St.

[Pg 39]
2 Chester St

2 Chester St.

2 Chester St.


60 Cliff Rd

60 Cliff Road

60 Cliff Road

[Pg 40]
15 Fair St

15 Fair St.

15 Fair St.


29 and 31 Fair St

29 AND 31 Fair St.

29 AND 31 Fair St.

[Pg 41]
60 Fair St.

60 Fair St.

60 Fair St.


10 Gardner St

10 Gardner St.

10 Gardner St.

[Pg 42]
16 Gardner St

16 Gardner St.

16 Gardner St.


5 Gay St

5 Gay St.

5 Gay St.

[Pg 43]
2 Gorham's Court

2 Gorham’s Court

2 Gorham's Court


15 Liberty St

15 Liberty St.

15 Liberty St.

[Pg 44]
26 Liberty St

26 Liberty St.

26 Liberty St.


27-29 Liberty St

27 AND 29 Liberty St.

27 AND 29 Liberty St.

[Pg 45]
31 Lily St

31 Lily St.

31 Lily St.


72 Main St

72 Main St.

72 Main St.

[Pg 46]
75 Main St

75 Main St.

75 Main St.


78 Main St

78 Main St.

78 Main St.

[Pg 47]
85-87 Main St

85 AND 87 Main St.

85 AND 87 Main St.


91 Main St

91 Main St.

91 Main St.

[Pg 48]
94 Main St

94 Main St.

94 Main St.


95 Main St

95 Main St.

95 Main St.

[Pg 49]
96 Main St

96 Main St.

96 Main St.


98 Main St

98 Main St.

98 Main St.

[Pg 50]
99 Main St

99 Main St.

99 Main St.


100 Main St

100 Main St.

100 Main St.

[Pg 51]
102 Main St

102 Main St.

102 Main St.


105 Main St

105 Main St.

105 Main St.

[Pg 52]
117 Main St

117 Main St.

117 Main St.


121 Main St

121 Main St.

121 Main St.

[Pg 53]
139 Main St

139 Main St.

139 Main St.


153 Main St

153 Main St.

153 Main St.

[Pg 54]
9 Milk St

9 Milk St.

9 Milk St.


11 Milk St

11 Milk St.

11 Milk St.

[Pg 55]
21 Milk St

21 Milk St.

21 Milk St.


8 Mill St

8 Mill St.

8 Mill St.

[Pg 56]
9 Mill St

9 Mill St.

9 Mill St.


17 N. Liberty St

17 No. Liberty St.

17 No. Liberty St.

[Pg 57]
47 N. Liberty St

47 No. Liberty St.

47 No. Liberty St.


15 N. Water St.

15 No. Water St.

15 No. Water St.

[Pg 58]
29 N. Water St.

23 No. Water St.

23 No. Water St.


5 Orange St.

5 Orange St.

5 Orange St.

[Pg 59]
Orange St. Block

“The Block,” Orange St.

“The Block,” Orange St.


14 Orange St.

14 Orange St.

14 Orange St.

[Pg 60]
40 Orange St.

40 Orange St.

40 Orange St.


33 Orange St.

33 Orange St.

33 Orange St.

[Pg 61]
53 Orange St.

53 Orange St.

53 Orange St.


18 Pearl St.

18 Pearl St.

18 Pearl St.

[Pg 62]
28 Pearl St.

28 Pearl St.

28 Pearl St.


43 Pearl St.

43 Pearl St.

43 Pearl St.

[Pg 63]
8 Pine St.

8 Pine St.

8 Pine St.


10 Pine St.

10 Pine St.

10 Pine St.

[Pg 64]
18 Pine St.

18 Pine St.

18 Pine St.


7 Pleasant St.

7 Pleasant St.

7 Pleasant St.

[Pg 65]
8 Pleasant St.

8 Pleasant St.

8 Pleasant St.


15 Pleasant St.

15 Pleasant St.

15 Pleasant St.

[Pg 66]
19 Pleasant St.

19 Pleasant St.

19 Pleasant St.


9 Quince St.

9 Quince St.

9 Quince St.

[Pg 67]
2 West Silver St.

2 West Silver St.

2 West Silver St.


Sunset Hill

Sunset Hill

Sunset Hill

[Pg 68]
18 Union St.

18 Union St.

18 Union St.


21 Union St.

21 Union St.

21 Union St.


[Pg 69]

DESCRIPTIONS OF NANTUCKET

The people for whom the old dwellings were built and the conditions under which they lived were responsible for the architecture.

The people for whom the old houses were built and the conditions they lived in shaped the architecture.

Here are extracts from most of the older writings, and some later ones, which writings should be read in full by those interested.

Here are excerpts from many of the older writings, along with some more recent ones, which should be read in their entirety by anyone who is interested.

1772—This is the date the author (Crevecoeur) of Letters From An American Farmer, by J. Hector St. John, visited this island. The “Letters” were written in English and first published in London in 1782. There was a French edition of 1784 and one of 1787. This is the earliest descriptive writing of Nantucket with which we are familiar. It consists of nearly one hundred pages, with a map, and should be read entire by all who love their old Nantucket. Subsequent articles and histories of the Island have not failed to make use of what St. John wrote.

1772—This is the year the author (Crevecoeur) of Letters From An American Farmer, by J. Hector St. John, visited this island. The “Letters” were written in English and first published in London in 1782. There was a French edition in 1784 and another in 1787. This is the earliest descriptive writing about Nantucket that we know of. It consists of nearly one hundred pages, with a map, and should be read in full by anyone who loves their old Nantucket. Later articles and histories of the Island have relied on what St. John wrote.

It is best to state that M. St. Jean de Crevecoeur may not have been accurate in some details, as for instance the extent to which building frames and foundations were brought from the mainland. The writer of 1807 quoted hereinafter says of St. John’s Letters.

It’s important to mention that M. St. Jean de Crevecoeur might not have been precise in some details, like how much of the building frames and foundations were brought from the mainland. The writer from 1807, mentioned later, talks about St. John’s Letters.

… “his pictures, though striking likenesses, are always flattering. Another objection is that he is frequently erroneous in minute and unimportant circumstances. He gives the contour and character of the face exactly though, as said before, in too favorable a light, but he makes strange mistakes in the sleeve of a coat or the strap of a shoe. If the reader has good nature enough to pardon these two faults, he will peruse the Letters with perpetual delight.”

… “his pictures, while they capture a striking resemblance, are always flattering. Another criticism is that he often gets minor and unimportant details wrong. He accurately represents the shape and features of the face, though, as mentioned earlier, in too favorable a light, but he makes odd mistakes with the sleeve of a coat or the strap of a shoe. If the reader is kind enough to overlook these two flaws, they will enjoy the Letters with endless pleasure.”

The following quotations are assembled from the “Letters:”

The following quotes are collected from the “Letters:”

“The Island has nothing deserving of notice but its inhabitants; here you meet with neither ancient monuments, spacious halls, solemn temples nor elegant dwellings; not a citadel nor any kind of fortification, not even a battery to [Pg 70] rend the air. Their rural improvements are all of the most simple and useful kind. Sherburn is the only town on the Island, which consists of about 530 houses that have been framed on the main. They are lathed and plastered within, handsomely painted and boarded without. Each has a cellar underneath, built with stones also fetched from the main. They are all of a similar construction in appearance, plain and entirely devoid of exterior or interior ornament. I observed but one which was built of bricks, belonging to Mr. ——, but like the rest it is unadorned. Quayes is a small but valuable tract long since purchased by Mr. Coffin where he has erected the best house on the Island. The differences which I observed in the people are founded on nothing more than the good or ill success of their maritime enterprises and do not proceed from education. That is the same through every class: simple, useful and unadorned, like their dress and their houses. They are well acquainted with the cheapest method of procuring lumber from the Kennebeck and Penobscot Rivers. All their houses are neat, convenient and comfortable. Some of them are filled with two families, for when the husbands are at sea the wives require less house room. Those who possess the greatest fortunes at present belong to the Society of Friends. They yearly go to different parts of this continent, constantly engaged in sea affairs. Sometimes they have emigrated like bees. Some have settled on the famous river Kennebeck, clearing the heaviest timbered land in America, and instead of entirely consuming their timber as we are obliged to do, some parts of it are converted into useful articles for exportation, such as staves, boards, hoops, barrels, etc. For that purpose they keep a correspondence with their native island, and I know many of the principal inhabitants of Sherburn, who though merchants and living at Nantucket, yet possess valuable farms, on that river, from whence they draw a great part of their substance, meat, grain, firewood, etc. Yet there are not at Nantucket so many wealthy people, after having considered their great successes. The reason of this, I believe, is that their island supplies the town with little or nothing (with few [Pg 71] families excepted). Everyone must procure what they want from the main. Here are neither Scotch, Irish nor French, as in the case in most other settlements. They are an unmixed English breed.”

The Island has nothing noteworthy except its people; you won't find any ancient monuments, grand halls, solemn temples, or stylish homes here; no fortresses or defenses, not even a cannon to break the silence. Their rural improvements are all very simple and practical. Sherburn is the only town on the Island, made up of about 530 houses built from timber sourced from the mainland. They are plastered and painted nicely on the outside, with a cellar underneath made from stones also brought over from the mainland. All of them look similar: plain and completely without any decoration inside or out. I saw only one house made of bricks, which belongs to Mr. —, but like the others, it’s also unadorned. Quayes is a small but valuable piece of land that Mr. Coffin bought a long time ago, where he built the best house on the Island. The differences I noticed among the people stem from the success of their sea ventures and not from their education. That remains the same across all classes: simple, useful, and unadorned, just like their clothing and homes. They know the best ways to get lumber from the Kennebeck and Penobscot Rivers. All their homes are tidy, practical, and comfortable. Some houses even have two families living in them, as the wives need less space when their husbands are at sea. Those with the most wealth right now are members of the Society of Friends. They travel to different parts of the continent every year, always involved in maritime activities. Sometimes they’ve migrated like bees. Some have settled on the famous Kennebeck River, clearing some of the most heavily wooded land in America, and instead of using up all their timber like we have to, they turn some of it into useful export items, like staves, boards, hoops, barrels, and so on. For that purpose, they keep in touch with their home island, and I know many of the main merchants from Sherburn who live in Nantucket but also own valuable farmland along that river, from which they gain much of their livelihood—meat, grain, firewood, etc. However, there aren't as many wealthy people in Nantucket, despite their considerable success. I believe this is because their island doesn’t provide much for the town (with few exceptions). Everyone must get what they need from the mainland. There are no Scots, Irish, or French people here, like in most other settlements. They are an unmixed English population.

1791—By Walter Folger, jun., dated Nantucket, May 21, (Mass. Hist. Soc. Coll.)

1791—By Walter Folger, Jr., dated Nantucket, May 21, (Mass. Hist. Soc. Coll.)

“In 1790 the whole number of inhabitants was 4619. They for the most part are a robust and enterprising people, mostly seamen and mechanics. It is no strange thing to see the same man occupy the station of a merchant, at other times that of a husbandman or of a blacksmith or of a cooper or of a number of other occupations.”

“In 1790, the total population was 4,619. They are mostly a strong and ambitious group, primarily consisting of sailors and tradespeople. It’s not uncommon to see the same person work as a merchant one moment and then as a farmer, blacksmith, cooper, or in various other jobs at another time.”

1792—By Zaccheus Macy, dated Nantucket, 15th of 5th mo. 1792 (Mass. Hist. Soc. Coll.)

1792—By Zaccheus Macy, dated Nantucket, 15th of May 1792 (Mass. Hist. Soc. Coll.)

“In the year 1659 Thomas Macy removed with his family from Salisbury to the west end of the island to a place called Madakit harbour. Thither came four from Martha’s Vineyard for the sake of gunning and lived with them as boarders. At that time there were near 3000 Indians on Nantucket. They were willing to sell their land and the English went on purchasing, beginning at the west end of the island.”

“In 1659, Thomas Macy moved with his family from Salisbury to the west end of the island, an area known as Madakit Harbor. Four people from Martha’s Vineyard came there for hunting and lived with them as boarders. At that time, there were nearly 3,000 Native Americans on Nantucket. They were open to selling their land, and the English started buying it, beginning at the west end of the island.”

Further on, Mr. Macy, alluding to the then (1792) status of affairs on the island, states:

Further on, Mr. Macy, referring to the situation on the island in 1792, says:

“A great many of our most substantial men, lured by the hope of large bounties, have moved from the island, some to England, some to France and others to Halifax, where they carry on the whale fishery. This is a great damage to us. If these persons had carried away with them their part of the poor it would have lightened our burden, for we now have 215 widows, of whom not thirty are able to support themselves without the assistance of friends and neighbors and some are maintained by the town. We have besides a great number of poor, but we have a considerable number of able and industrious men who carry on the whale fishery.”

"Many of our most prominent men, drawn by the promise of big rewards, have left the island—some for England, some for France, and others for Halifax—where they engage in whale fishing. This is a significant loss for us. If these individuals had taken their share of the needy with them, it would have eased our burden, as we currently have 215 widows, of whom fewer than thirty can support themselves without help from friends and neighbors, and some are supported by the town. Additionally, we have a large number of needy people, but we also have a substantial number of capable and hardworking men involved in the whale fishery."

1801—Josiah Quincy made a journey through the southeast [Pg 72] parts of New England in 1801. He kept a diary which is most interesting reading. (Mass. Hist. Soc. Proc.) The following are brief quotations from it:

1801—Josiah Quincy traveled through the southeast [Pg 72] regions of New England in 1801. He maintained a diary that makes for very interesting reading. (Mass. Hist. Soc. Proc.) Here are some brief excerpts from it:

“The town of Nantucket appears from the harbor as large as Salem but exhibits no marks of elegance or splendour. With one or two exceptions they (the houses) are built wholly of wood and have but two stories. By far the greater number are without paint and with those which have it, red is the predominant color. They are built generally upon the street. The almost total want of trees, houses and fences in the interior part of the island makes the road very uninteresting. Once in every two or three miles a single farmhouse appears, surrounded by half a dozen dwarf cherry trees. Such an assemblage is a wood on Nantucket, where there is not a tree of native growth. We dined with Dr. and Mrs. Easton.”

The town of Nantucket looks as big as Salem from the harbor but has no signs of elegance or luxury. With a couple of exceptions, the houses are made entirely of wood and have only two stories. Most of them are unpainted, and among those that are painted, red is the most common color. They are usually built right on the street. The almost complete lack of trees, houses, and fences in the interior of the island makes the road quite dull. Every two or three miles, you'll see a single farmhouse surrounded by a few small cherry trees. That’s what counts as a forest on Nantucket, where there aren’t any native trees. We had dinner with Dr. and Mrs. Easton.

1807—A writer, under date of Aug. 1, 1807, (Mass. Hist. Soc. Coll.) states:

1807—A writer, on August 1, 1807, (Mass. Hist. Soc. Coll.) states:

“The town stands on the west side of the harbour and is a mile and a half in length and a third of a mile in breadth. It contains 850 dwelling houses (including 15 at Podpis, Quayz, Squam, etc.) 63 stores, a great number of shops, besides candle works, rope walks, etc., five wharves and five windmills. The town, with exception of one or two houses, is built of wood. The houses are generally two stories in height; some of them have clapboards in front; but the greatest part of them are covered with shingles. Several of them are painted green. They are convenient buildings, but there is not much elegance in their appearance.”

The town is located on the west side of the harbor and stretches a mile and a half long and a third of a mile wide. It has 850 houses (including 15 at Podpis, Quayz, Squam, etc.), 63 stores, a large number of shops, along with candle factories, rope factories, and more, five wharves, and five windmills. Almost all the buildings in town, except for one or two, are made of wood. Most houses are two stories high; some have clapboard exteriors, but the majority are covered with shingles. Several of them are painted green. They are practical structures, but they lack elegance in their design.

Later on in his notes, he states:

Later on in his notes, he states:

“House lots in the town sell for from $100 to $200 a square rod; rents are low, few exceeding $100 a year. The greatest part of the houses are owned by those who live in them. The present number of inhabitants is estimated at 6730.”

“House lots in the town sell for between $100 and $200 per square rod; rents are low, with few exceeding $100 a year. Most of the houses are owned by the people who live in them. The current estimated population is 6,730.”

1811—Joseph Sansom, in The Port Folio, Jan. 1811:

1811—Joseph Sansom, in The Port Folio, Jan. 1811:

“The Nantucket stores and houses are built of timber, [Pg 73] are mostly painted red or white and are crowned by the steeples, or rather towers, of two Presbyterian meeting houses. Several new streets have been laid out in straight lines and a number of houses have been built within a year or two with ceilings of 10 feet high. This, however, is considered a piece of useless extravagance, the old-fashioned stories of eight or nine feet being generally reckoned high enough, and to spare. Every other house in this seafaring place has a lookout upon the roof or a vane at the gable end; to see what ships have arrived from sea or whether the wind is fair for the packets.”

The shops and homes in Nantucket are made of wood, [Pg 73] mostly painted red or white, and topped with the steeples, or more accurately, towers, of two Presbyterian churches. Several new streets have been laid out in straight lines, and a number of houses have been built over the past year or two with ceilings 10 feet high. However, this is seen as a pointless extravagance, as the old-fashioned ceilings of eight or nine feet are generally considered high enough, and then some. Every other house in this seafaring town has a lookout on the roof or a weather vane at the gable end; to check what ships have come in from the sea or whether the wind is favorable for the packets.

1850 (before and after)—

1850 (prior and post)—

Joseph E. C. Farnham was born in Nantucket in 1849. He was a keen observer of the people of the Island and their customs and wrote at considerable length “Brief Historical Data and Memories of My Boyhood Days at Nantucket.” It delightfully describes the town at the close of the whaling era.

Joseph E. C. Farnham was born in Nantucket in 1849. He was a keen observer of the island's people and their customs and wrote extensively in “Brief Historical Data and Memories of My Boyhood Days at Nantucket.” It wonderfully describes the town at the end of the whaling era.

Worth observes that “the gambrel-roofed house never attracted the attention of the Nantucket people. The few that are still standing were erected after 1750. After the Revolution, when prosperity dawned on the Island, the common type of house was the square two-story structure, with large center chimney, numerous examples of which are to be seen. The same regard for ancient houses has also led people to retain the large center chimney. While in many towns desire for increased room or for the appearance of a small chimney has led house owners to replace the old structure with one greatly inferior in size, at Nantucket the disposition has prevailed to keep without change this distinguishing mark of the 18th century construction.”

Worth notes that “the gambrel-roofed house never caught the attention of the Nantucket locals. The few that are still standing were built after 1750. After the Revolution, when prosperity returned to the Island, the common house style was the square two-story structure with a large center chimney, of which there are many examples. This appreciation for older homes has also led people to maintain the large center chimney. While in many towns the desire for more space or a smaller chimney has caused homeowners to replace the old structure with one much smaller, in Nantucket, the trend has been to keep this defining feature of 18th-century construction unchanged.”

1876—Nantucket after the end of the whaling, at its lowest ebb. Read “Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast” by S. A. Drake.

1876—Nantucket after the end of whaling, at its lowest point. Read “Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast” by S. A. Drake.

1882—This date is early in a new period of prosperity due to the summer visitors. The back log and fore log of this growing and practically only sizeable remaining “industry” are now the owners and renters of houses. [Pg 74] Visitors used to come for a “vacation” of a few days or weeks, but now they stay the season or longer. Read “Island of Nantucket, What It Was and What It Is” by E. K. Godfrey.

1882—This date marks the beginning of a new era of prosperity thanks to the summer visitors. The owners and renters of houses have now become the mainstay of this growing and practically only major remaining “industry.” [Pg 74] Visitors used to come for a short “vacation” of a few days or weeks, but now they stay for the whole season or even longer. Check out “Island of Nantucket, What It Was and What It Is” by E. K. Godfrey.

1924—From an article by Walter Prichard Eaton:

1924—From an article by Walter Prichard Eaton:

Individually, and in the mass, the architecture of old Nantucket was and is extraordinarily dignified in its quiet simplicity and nice proportions, and often really exquisite in its use of ornamental detail.

Individually and collectively, the architecture of old Nantucket is extraordinarily dignified in its quiet simplicity and nice proportions, and often truly exquisite in its use of decorative details.

Nearly every other American town, once rich in Eighteenth or early Nineteenth Century architecture, has been injured by the intermingling of later buildings, but by a curious set of economic chances, old Nantucket has almost entirely escaped, and remains today architecturally much as it was when the crest of the whaling prosperity enabled the islanders to build it more than a century ago.

Almost every other American town, once filled with Eighteenth or early Nineteenth Century architecture, has been harmed by the mix of newer buildings. However, due to a unique combination of economic circumstances, old Nantucket has managed to largely avoid this fate and still looks very much like it did when the height of whaling prosperity allowed the islanders to construct it over a century ago.

Then came sophisticated moderns, and the best these moderns could do were hideous casinos, sprawling cottages with verandas stuck all over them helter-skelter, houses with broken and meaningless roof lines, windows badly spaced and without style, ornamentation without dignity, gingerbread trimmings and nothing, anywhere, that had repose, unity, beauty of outline, or even adaptability to its site.

Then came the sophisticated moderns, and the best they could manage were ugly casinos, sprawling cottages with verandas haphazardly placed all over them, houses with broken and meaningless rooflines, poorly spaced windows lacking style, decoration without grace, overly decorative trims, and nothing anywhere that offered calm, unity, beauty of shape, or even harmony with its surroundings.

The Puritans of Nantucket left behind no poems or plays, but to say they left behind no art is ridiculous. They left behind an entire town which is a work of art, in its way as charming and as nearly perfect as anything in the Old World, and utterly different from anything in the Old World—a unique expression. They were able to do this because, to them, art was expressed through the crafts, and every man who used a tool (which meant almost every man) was an artist.

The Puritans of Nantucket didn’t leave behind any poems or plays, but claiming they left no art is ridiculous. They created an entire town that is an artwork in its own right, as charming and nearly perfect as anything in the Old World, yet completely different from it—a unique expression. They managed to do this because, for them, art was expressed through craftsmanship, and every man who used a tool (which was nearly every man) was considered an artist.

[Pg 75]
Chimneys

Chimneys, Old and New

Chimneys, Then and Now


Transcriber’s Note

Words may have inconsistent hyphenation in the text; these were not changed. Quotation marks and final stops missing at the end of sentences and abbreviations were added. “Hits.” was changed to “Hist.” “… Mass. Hist. Soc. Coll.…”

Words may have inconsistent hyphenation in the text; these were not changed. Quotation marks and periods missing at the end of sentences and abbreviations were added. “Hits.” was changed to “Hist.” “… Mass. Hist. Soc. Coll.…”


Download ePUB

If you like this ebook, consider a donation!