This is a modern-English version of With the Empress Dowager of China, originally written by Carl, Katharine A. (Katharine Augusta). It has been thoroughly updated, including changes to sentence structure, words, spelling, and grammar—to ensure clarity for contemporary readers, while preserving the original spirit and nuance. If you click on a paragraph, you will see the original text that we modified, and you can toggle between the two versions.

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With the Empress Dowager China

Katharine A. Carl

Illustrated by the Author and with Photographs

Illustrated by the Author and with Photos

New York The Century Co. 1907

Published November, 1905.

Published Nov 1905.

PORTRAIT OF THE EMPRESS DOWAGER

This is the portrait which was exhibited at the St. Louis Exposition, is now owned by the United States Government, and is in the National Museum at Washington

This is the portrait that was shown at the St. Louis Exposition, is now owned by the U.S. Government, and is in the National Museum in Washington.

TO SIR ROBERT HART

To Sir Robert Hart

To whose helpful encouragement I owe so much, I affectionately dedicate this account of my experiences at the Court of the country he has so long and faithfully served.

To the helpful encouragement I owe so much, I warmly dedicate this account of my experiences at the Court of the country he has served for so long and so faithfully.

Katharine A. Carl.

New York, May, 1905.

Contents Contents
PAGE
Chapter I.	3
My Presentation and First Day at the Chinese Court Drive Out to the Summer Palace—Presentation—Beginning the Portrait—Luncheon—The Palace Theater—My Pavilion within the Precincts. vii
Chapter II.	18
Her Majesty's Personal Appearance—A Chinese Meal—Boating Second Sitting—The Siesta—Her Majesty’s Barge—A Promenade on the Lake.
Chapter III.	27
The Palace of the Emperor's Father A Chinese Palace—Gardens—The Chinese Poem—Tombstones of Pets—The Highway from Peking to the Summer Palace—Chinese Modes of Locomotion—The Seventh Prince.
Chapter IV.	34
The Queen's Throne Room Clocks—Third Sitting—A Promenade in the Gardens—The Orchard—The Empress Dowager’s Love of Flowers—Customs as to Fruits and Flowers.
Chapter V.	42
The Young Empress and the Court Ladies The Young Empress—The Secondary Wife—The Princesses—Children by Adoption—Chinese Widows—The Princess Imperial—The Relationships of the Princesses of the Blood—The Maids and Tiring-women—Women of the Eighth Banner—The Chinese Woman at Court—Slaves.
Chapter VI.	50
Continuation of the Portrait Advantages and Disadvantages of Painting in the Throne-room—The Empress Dowager’s Voice—Chinese Opinion as to Portraits of Royalty—Walks with Her Majesty—Her Dogs—Their Pavilions—Cats—The Empress Dowager’s Gift of “Me-lah.” viii
Chapter VII.	57
Court Celebrations The Celebration of His Majesty’s Birthday—Invitation from the Empress Dowager to be Present—Birthday Plays—The Imperial Actors—Birthday Decorations of the Palace Courts and Buildings—Presents—First Gala Performance—Luncheon in the Court of the Theater—The Mat-sheds at the Palace—Visitors—Chinese Courtesy—The Imperial Theater at Summer Palace—Actresses—Customs of Manchu Women.
Chapter VIII.	64
The Emperor Beginning of his Reign—The Name of an Emperor—The Manchu Dynasty—Personality of the Emperor—Appearance—His Orientalism—His Dreams of Progress—His Edicts—Despatches—The Emperor’s Palace and Attendants—His Studies and Talents—Early Rising—His Meals—Conventionalities Observed—Dislike of Public Functions.
Chapter IX.	73
The Emperor's Birthday Morning Salutations—His Majesty’s Throne-room—The Imperial Pearl-Buttons Denoting Rank of Officials—Manchu Buttons—“Lever” of the Empress Dowager—Court Costume—Young Empress in Court Attire—Going in State to Audience Hall—Official Congratulation by High Officials and Princes—The Young Empress’s Palace—Presentation of Jade Emblem (Ruyie)—Young Empress’s Official Congratulation to the Emperor—Simplicity of Attire of Empress Dowager—Grand Theatrical Representation at Palace Theater—Imperial Congratulatory Poem—Splendid Costumes—Luncheon in the Court of the Theater—Children at Court—The Emperor’s Presents to the Manchu Nobles and High Officials—The Finale at the Theater—Spectacular Procession—Thanks of the Princes and Nobles—Bowing to the “Great Ancestress”—The Procession to the Hall of Ancestral Tablets. ix
Chapter X.	87
Beijing—The Sea Palace His Majesty’s Sacrifice to his Ancestors—The Empress Dowager’s Favorite Summer-house—The Sacred Picture—The United States Legation at Peking—Mrs. Conger’s Relations with Chinese Ladies—The Sea Palace—The Boats of the Lake—Our Resting-place at the Sea Palace—Promenade on the Lake—The Eunuch Li-Wun-ti—Memory—Story-telling—The Island—Temple Gardens—Two Temples—Cathedral within the Precincts—Theater.
Chapter XI.	100
Some Traits of Her Majesty—Second Visit to the Sea Palace The Empress Dowager’s Magnetic Personality—Interesting Study—Her Chinese Appellations—Hall of Mongolian Princes—Dragon Wall—Fruits Sent to the Palace—Repast at the Sea Palace—Promenade in the Train of Her Majesty—The Imperial Gourds—A Promenade in the Rain—Rest in Hall of Mongolian Princes—Archery in China—The Sunset Call.
Chapter XII.	111
Back to the Summer Palace The Empress Dowager as a Psychological Study—Seeing Her Face to Face—Work on Portrait Resumed—Easels and Cases for Materials for Work on Sacred Picture—Walks—Refreshments for the Promenades—Imperial Tea—The Empress Dowager’s Tea and Tea-cups—Her Deftness with her Fingers—Her Thoughtfulness.
Chapter XIII.	117
The Steam Launch - Biannual Offerings to Confucius Chinese Tolerance in Religious Matters—Halls of Confucius—The Odes to Peace—Burning the Offerings.
Chapter XIV.	123
The Palace Guards Their Grades—The Chief Eunuchs—Li Lien Ying—His Power with the Courtiers—“L’Eminence Grise” of the Court—The Shut-in Position of Chinese Imperial Rulers—Need of an Unofficial Messenger—Personal Appearance of Li Lien Ying—Sui, Her Majesty’s Second Eunuch—Punishment of Eunuchs—Pupils—Opium Smoking—Pets—Good Manners of the Eunuchs. x
Chapter XV.	130
Literary Interests and Skills of the Empress Dowager The Empress of the Eastern Palace—Co-Regency—Her Majesty’s Literary Tastes—Her Love of Heroic Poems—Her Memory—The Chinese Joan of Arc—The Empress, Widow of Tung-Chih—The Empress Dowager’s Reader and her Favorite Authors—Her Love of the Theater—Her Humor—A Great Stickler for Purity of Language—Li-Hung-Chang’s Chinese—How the Empress Dowager Speaks It—Her Writing of the Great Characters—The Chinese Written Character—Painting—Embroidery—Her Designs for Floral Decorations—Cultivation of her Person—The Empress Dowager an Epicure—Her Soaps and Perfumes—Her Personal Magnetism as a Power over Animals—The Escaped Bird—The Katydid.
Chapter XVI.	142
The Great Hall Hours of the Audiences—The Audience Hall at Summer Palace—Its Interior—Ancient and Modern Thrones and Dais—Audiences of Heads of Departments—The Grand Council—Official Despatches—Telegrams—The Cushions for Members of the Grand Council—Special Audiences—The Introducing Eunuch—Amusing Subterfuge of Officials at Audience—The Young Emperor and Tiresome Official—Sacred Quality of the Imperial Person—Mode of Address of Courtiers—The Kow-tow.
Chapter XVII.	149
The Summer Palace The Empress Dowager’s Favorite Palace—The Marble Terrace—The Hills of the Summer Palace—The Temple of the Ten Thousand Buddhas—Memorial Arches—The Marble Bridge—The Canals—Camel-back Bridges—Chinese Architecture—Utilitarian Spirit of the Chinese—Flowers and Fields in the Park of Summer Palace—Grand Peony Mountain—The Sacred Buddha-Temple of the Ten Thousand Buddhas—Ruins of Old Summer Palace—Views from the Summer Palace Belvederes—When Their Majesties Go Abroad.
Chapter XVIII.	156
Harvest Moon Festival The Chinese Love of Festivals—The Fruit of Immortality—The Little Handmaiden and her White Rabbit—The Play at the Palace Theater on the Mid-Autumn Festival—Dinner in the Imperial Loge—Procession to the Moonlit Terrace—Floral Pai-lou to the Moon—“Bowing” to the Moon—The Poem to the Moon—The Burnt-Offering—Return to the Palace on the Moonlit Lake—Continuation of the Portrait—Some Disadvantages of Too Much Pleasure—Hospitality of the Empress Dowager—Chinese Conventions and Traditions—Wonderful Opportunities for Picturesqueness in Painting the Empress Dowager—Restrictions Imposed by Chinese Tradition—First Exhibition of the “Sacred Picture”—Description of First Portrait of the Empress Dowager—How I Should Have Liked to Paint Her. xi
Chapter XIX.	165
A Garden Party Reception to the Diplomatic Corps and Ladies of the Legation—The Ceremony of Reception of the Ladies—The Empress Dowager’s Cordiality—Taking Tea in the Audience Hall—Luncheon in the Throne-room—Promenade on the Lake—Visit to the Palace and Temple on the Island—The Marble Boat—Lack of Harmony among the Guests at Garden Party—Chinese Comment on our Costumes and Appearance—Dislike of Blonde Hair.
Chapter XX.	171
Starting a Second Portrait of the Empress Dowager Putting the Characters Representing Her Majesty’s Titles and her Two Seals on the Portrait—Beginning the Small Portrait—Toilette d’Intimité—“Hailo” and “Shadza”—The Palace Painters—Their Manner of Working—New Variety of Chrysanthemum—The “Peafowl Feather”—The Audience Hall Pianos—Her Majesty’s Ideas of Dancing.
Chapter XXI.	178
A European Circus at the Palace The Posters—Sites for the Ring—The Turnip Field—Their Majesties Go in State across the Lake—The Houseboats—The Young Empress’s State Boat—The Imperial Loges at the Circus—Invited Officials—Bands of Music—A Glimpse of the Manchu Princes and Some High Officials—The Son of the Imperial Princess—The Opera Glasses of Their Majesties—What Interested Them Most. xii
Chapter XXII.	185
Palace Rules Early Rising—When the Empress Dowager Sleeps—Her Bedroom—Irregular Hours except for the Audience—Domestic Duties—Her Favorite Game—Her Luck—Her Meals—Conventions Observed at the Empress Dowager’s Table—Her Dishes—The Hour of the Siesta—Her Promenades—The Days of the Theater—When Their Majesties Dine Together—Rigorous Observance of Fasts at the Table of the Empress Dowager—Court Etiquette—The Graceful Bow—Rigid Observance of Court Customs—Her Majesty’s Reproof of Too Indulgent Mother.
Chapter XXIII.	194
Her Majesty's Anxiety—Her Birthday Her Anxiety—Exterior and Interior Troubles—Preparations for Her Majesty’s Birthday—Her Desire to Have Everything as Simple as Possible and to Spare Expense—The Emperor’s Wish to Celebrate with the Usual Pomp, and Desire to Bestow a New Title upon the Empress Dowager—Difference of Her Majesty’s Interest in her Own and the Emperor’s Birthday—When She Received the Congratulations—Early Hour of Congratulation—The Interior of the Throne-room and Decorations for the Birthday—Winter Court Dress of the Ladies—The Empress Dowager’s Fatigue.
Chapter XXIV.	200
The Winter Palace The Empress Dowager’s Love of the Summer Palace—Return to Peking—Young Empress and Ladies Precede and Receive Her on the Threshold of her Own Throne-room—City of Peking, the Palace within the Forbidden City—Its many Walls within Walls—The Guard-Houses—The Ceremony of Reception—The Throne-room of the Winter Palace—The Interior Dome—Her Majesty’s Sitting-room—Private Chapel—Portraits of Queen Victoria—The Three Great Halls—The Spirit-Stairway—The Central Hall—Presents from European Royalties—Where I was to Paint—The Emperor’s Precincts—Tradition at the Winter Palace. xiii
Chapter XXV.	211
Beijing—Starting the Portrait for St. Louis Legation Quarter—Morning Ride to the Palace—Splendid Walls of the Palace and City—The Streets in the Forbidden City—A Funeral—The Mongolians—Beggars at the Gate—Unsatisfactoriness of Studio at Winter Palace—Her Majesty Orders It Remodeled—Beginning Portrait for St. Louis—Imperial Paraphernalia and Insignia of Royalty—Importance of Propriety—The Throne—Her Majesty’s Costume for the Portrait—Pearl Mantle—First Sketch—Stretching the Great Canvas.
Chapter XXVI.	219
Social Customs Manchu Ladies of the Palace—Presentation, on Their Marriage, of Manchu Noblewomen—Bridal Costume—Sedan Chairs—By Whom Bride is Presented—The Young Empress’s Graciousness—A Daughter in a Manchu Family—Comparison of Manchu and American Girl—The Unmarried Daughter of the Manchus—Her Position in the Family—Social Qualities—The Manchu Men—Sports—Costume—Young Dandies—Concubinage—Early Marriages of Men—Secondary Wives—The Family—Secondary Wives of an Emperor—Their Rank—Position in the Palace—Title.
Chapter XXVII.	230
Gift Giving The Palace as the Heart of Empire—Occasions on which Presents are Given (Private, Official, and Festivals)—Style of Presents Given by the Empress Dowager—Presents to the Ladies of Legation—Birthday Presents—Some Presents Received by Me from Her Majesty.
Chapter XXVIII.	237
Some Winter Days at the Palace The Portrait for America—Details and Accessories of the Same—Days at the Palace—The Meals in Winter—Winter Evenings—Learning Chinese—Occupations of the Ladies—The Young Empress’s Birthday—Days of Mourning at the Palace—Anniversary of Death of the Emperor Tung-Chih—The Empress Dowager’s Sorrow. xiv
Chapter XXIX.	245
Religious Ceremonies The Three Great Religions—The Temple of Heaven—The Emperor as High Priest—Preparations for the Sacrifice to Heaven—Buddhism and Taoism—Confucius—Origin of Chinese Religious Ceremonies—Vitality of China as a Nation—Its Amalgamation of Conquering Races—The Manchus—Some Nature Worship—The Festival of the Awakening of Spring at the Palace—Guardians of the Cocoons.
Chapter XXX.	253
The Empress Dowager Her Family—Presentation at Court—Fifth Wife of the Emperor Hsien-Feng—Favorite of Empress Mother and First Wife—Birth of a Son—Death of Emperor Hsien-Feng—Empress of Western Palace—Co-Regents for Young Emperor Tung-Chih—Friendliness of the Two Co-Regents—State of China at Beginning of Regency—Intrigue—The Anti-foreign Princes—Prince Kung—First Political Act of Young Empress of Western Palace—Support of the Princes of the Blood—The Emperor Tung-Chih Begins to Reign—Death of Tung-Chih—Resumption of the Regency by the Empress Dowager—Minority of Kwang-Hsu—Death of Empress of Eastern Palace—Policy of Empress Dowager—The Emperor Kwang-Hsu Begins to Reign—His Policy—The War with Japan—Change of Policy by the Emperor—The Progress Party—The Ultra-Conservatives—Return from Retirement of the Empress Dowager—The Emperor’s Edict—So-called Coup d’État—Rout of Progress Party—Punishment of Ringleaders—Effect on the Emperor—Reign of Emperor “Assisted” by Empress Dowager—The Secret Society of the Boxers—Its Growth—Boxers in the Capital—Boxers among the Princes of the Blood—The Outbreak in Peking—Reported Cause of Outbreak—The Emperor and Empress Dowager’s Attempt to Check Movement—The Imperial Military Forces—Position of Legation Quarter in Peking—British Legation—Return of Their Majesties to Peking—Edicts Issued—Arrival of Allies in Peking—Flight of Her Majesty and the Court—The Route to Singan Fu—Hardships Endured—Incidents. xv
Chapter XXXI.	270
Her Majesty the Empress Dowager (Continued) Her Charities—Incident of the Boxer Rising—Widows’ Petition to the Empress Dowager—Her Majesty’s Action thereon—Her Extravagance—Extravagance in the Palace—Efforts of Past Emperors for Economy—Cost of Food in the Palace—Her Majesty’s Personal Extravagance—Her Jewels—Wardrobe—Examples of Her Economy—Her Patriotism—Scheme of Taxation—Her Penetration—Her Judgment—Her Prejudices—Sarcasm—Her Determination—Tact—Social Instinct—Reception of Young German Prince.
Chapter XXXII.	279
Lunar New Year Greatest Festival of the Year—Decorations of the Palace—Imitation Money—New Year’s Presents—Work on Portrait—Some Changes—Removal of the Court to Sea Palace—My Studio at Sea Palace—New Year’s Audience of Ladies of the Legation—Congratulations—Lantern Festival—The Illuminated Procession—The Double Dragon—The Flaming Pearl—Fireworks in the Palace—Day Rockets—Old Customs as to the Fireworks in the Palace Grounds.
Chapter XXXIII.	287
Continuation of the St. Louis Portrait Propitious Date for Finishing it—Changing Ornaments—Frame for Portrait—Spring Days—Her Majesty’s Walks—Inspecting the New Buildings—The Jinrikisha—The Miniature Railway—Her Majesty’s Automobiles—Kite Flying—His Majesty the Emperor Plows and Sows the Seed of a Furrow. xvi
Chapter XXXIV.	294
Completing and Sending the Portrait Nineteenth Day of April—Invitations to Ladies of the Legation to see the Portrait—Visit of the Ladies to the Palace—The Portrait—Princes and Nobles see the “Sacred Picture”—Attempt to Photograph—Portrait taken to Wai-Wu-Pu—Visit of Corps Diplomatique—Packing the Portrait—Special Railway built from Foreign Office to Railway Station—Departure of Picture—En route—Tientsin—Shanghai—Embarkation for San Francisco—Reception by Prince Pu L’un and Imperial Commission at St. Louis—Unveiling the Portrait—Placing the Portrait in the Gallery of Fine Arts—Arrival at Washington—Presentation to the Government.
Chapter XXXV.	300
Return to the Summer Palace Return to the Summer Palace—The Palace of the Emperor’s Father in Spring—The Grounds of the Summer Palace—The Studio—At Work Again—The Theater—His Majesty’s Theater Program—Work of the Vermilion Pencil—His Majesty’s Interest in the Russo-Japanese War—Spring Garden Party to the Ladies of the Legation—Another large Portrait of Her Majesty—Showing it to the Ladies—Her Majesty’s Desire for Highly Finished Detail—Her Delight in her New Hobby—Final Days.

xvii &
xviii

List of Illustrations

Portrait of the Empress Dowager	Frontispiece
FACING PAGE
The Empress and the Ladies of the Court in the Imperial Barge	24
Princesses of the Court	40
The Young Empress Ye-Ho-Na-Lah	44
At the American Legation, Peking	88
Chinese Architecture	104
On the Road from Peking to the Summer Palace	112
The Empress Dowager Writing a “Great Character”	136
The Empress Dowager in the Gardens of the Summer Palace	140
The Official Audience of Their Majesties	146
Old Ruins in the Summer Palace	152
The Secondary Wife of the Emperor	168
Pai-lou in the Grounds of the Summer Palace—on the Shore of the Lake	176
Princesses of the Court	188
Court in the Winter Palace—“Her Majesty Comes”	204
Confucian Temple—“Spirit-Stairway” in Central Flight of Steps	208
Prince Ching	216
The Author in Chinese Costume	234
Temple of Heaven—Peking	246
Altar to the Invisible Deity	250
Slave Girls	280
The Portrait of the Empress Dowager in its Frame	304

xix

INTRODUCTORY

In April, 1903, while I was visiting in Shanghai, I received a letter from Mrs. Conger, wife of the Minister of the United States to Peking, in which she said there was a question of Her Majesty the Empress Dowager’s having her portrait painted, and asking me if such a thing should be arranged would I be willing to come to Peking and undertake it. Mrs. Conger hoped, if the project should materialize, that Her Majesty might later consent to send the portrait to the Exposition at St. Louis. She thought such a portrait would be of great interest to the American people and might prove an attractive feature to the Exposition, in which she and Mr. Conger were, naturally, much interested. She also felt, as she had had an opportunity of seeing a good deal of the Empress Dowager, that if the world could see a true likeness of her, it might modify the generally accepted idea which prevailed as to Her Majesty’s character.

In April 1903, while I was visiting Shanghai, I got a letter from Mrs. Conger, the wife of the U.S. Minister to Peking. She mentioned that there was a possibility of Her Majesty the Empress Dowager having her portrait painted and asked if I would be willing to come to Peking to do it if it was arranged. Mrs. Conger hoped that if the project went ahead, Her Majesty might agree to send the portrait to the Exposition in St. Louis. She believed a portrait like that would be of great interest to the American people and could be an attractive feature for the Exposition, which she and Mr. Conger were naturally very interested in. She also thought that since she had seen quite a bit of the Empress Dowager, if the world could see an accurate likeness of her, it might change the generally accepted view of Her Majesty’s character.

I answered Mrs. Conger’s letter, saying I should be delighted to undertake the work, should it be decided upon, and I awaited further developments. The idea of sitting for her portrait met with Her Majesty’s approval, and she said she would arrange an Audience and set a day for beginning. But the “mills of”—Chinese xx Officialdom “grind slowly,” and not until July did Mrs. Conger receive an official notification from the Wai-Wu-Pu (Chinese Foreign Office) requesting “Her Excellency Mrs. Conger to present the American artist, Miss Carl, to Her Imperial Majesty on the fifth day of August, for the purpose of painting a portrait of Her Majesty.” Mrs. Conger immediately informed me of the reception of this document, and I left Shanghai for Peking on the 29th of July. I was cordially received, on my arrival in Peking, by Mr. and Mrs. Conger at the American Legation, and on the fifth of August was presented by Mrs. Conger to Her Majesty the Empress Dowager at the Summer Palace in private Audience.

I replied to Mrs. Conger’s letter, saying I would be thrilled to take on the project if it went ahead, and I waited for more news. The idea of sitting for her portrait was approved by Her Majesty, and she mentioned she would set up an Audience and choose a day to start. However, the “mills of”—Chinese Officialdom “grind slowly,” and it wasn’t until July that Mrs. Conger received an official notice from the Wai-Wu-Pu (Chinese Foreign Office) asking “Her Excellency Mrs. Conger to present the American artist, Miss Carl, to Her Imperial Majesty on the fifth day of August, for the purpose of painting a portrait of Her Majesty.” Mrs. Conger immediately let me know when she got this document, and I left Shanghai for Peking on July 29th. I was warmly welcomed upon my arrival in Peking by Mr. and Mrs. Conger at the American Legation, and on August 5th, I was introduced by Mrs. Conger to Her Majesty the Empress Dowager in a private Audience at the Summer Palace.

As it was a great innovation in Chinese customs and a breaking away from long-established tradition for an Imperial portrait to be painted, there was no precedent to follow and all arrangements were of the vaguest kind; and when I went into the Palace for my first Audience, I did not know whether I would have one sitting or ten, and no one else seemed to have any more definite information. All was uncertainty. Everything depended upon Her Majesty’s inclination, and future developments must be awaited. I felt that I was really going into the Palace on trial and that my reception and the work depended upon the fantasy and whims of a great Personage from whom, according to current reports, I had but little to expect. On the day of my first Audience, I was told at the Foreign Office that Her Majesty was to give me but one sitting, hence it was not in a very tranquil state of mind that I went up to be presented to the xxi Great Empress Dowager, Tze-Shi! But all this was changed when I saw her. She received me kindly, was very gracious. A Palace was set aside for me, and every facility afforded me for my work: during my sojourn at the Chinese Court I painted not only the portrait for the Exposition at St. Louis, but three others of Her Majesty.

As it was a significant change in Chinese customs and a break from long-standing tradition for an Imperial portrait to be painted, there was no precedent to follow, and all arrangements were quite vague. When I entered the Palace for my first Audience, I wasn't sure if I would have one sitting or ten, and no one else seemed to have any clearer information. Everything was uncertain. It all depended on Her Majesty's wishes, and future developments would have to be awaited. I felt like I was really going into the Palace on trial, and my reception and the work relied on the whims of a powerful figure from whom, according to current reports, I shouldn't expect much. On the day of my first Audience, I was informed at the Foreign Office that Her Majesty would only give me one sitting, so I went to be presented to the xxi Great Empress Dowager, Tze-Shi, with a rather uneasy mind. But everything changed when I saw her. She welcomed me warmly and was very gracious. A Palace was set aside for me, and I was given every resource I needed for my work: during my time at the Chinese Court, I not only painted the portrait for the Exposition at St. Louis but also three other portraits of Her Majesty.

Unique as my experiences at the different Palaces of Their Celestial Majesties were, I concluded, after I had lived at Court for a few months, I would never make these experiences public. The Empress Dowager received me in so friendly a manner, I met with such consideration at her hands and such unfailing courtesy from all with whom I came in contact, I felt I should requite this kindness by an equal consideration, and that it was my duty to respect Chinese prejudices and conform to their ideas of “Propriety” by refraining from any relation of my charming experiences.

As unique as my experiences were at the various Palaces of Their Celestial Majesties, after spending a few months at Court, I decided I would never share them publicly. The Empress Dowager welcomed me in such a warm way, and I received so much respect from her and consistent courtesy from everyone I interacted with, that I felt I should return this kindness with equal respect. It was my responsibility to honor Chinese customs and adhere to their ideas of "Propriety" by not revealing any of my delightful experiences.

After I returned to America, I was constantly seeing in newspapers (and hearing of) statements ascribed to me which I never made. Her Majesty was represented as having stood over me in threatening attitudes, forcing me to represent her as a young and beautiful woman! It was reported that she refused to give me any compensation for the portraits, and a number of other statements, equally false, were daily appearing in the papers. The London “Times,” in speaking of the Empress Dowager, said: “Some one has said ‘she has the soul of a tiger in the body of a woman,’ and Miss Carl found the old lady shrewd and tempestuous.” The latter statement, which I never xxii made, seemed to me enough to have on my shoulders, but the article was copied in American papers and I was put down as the author of the first, as well as of the second statement. The power of the Press has become such that it cannot be ignored. It is of no avail to say nothing in such a case as mine; when you do this, words are put into your mouth and sentiments ascribed to you at the will of the newsmongers. If a correction be made, it never seems to get the same circulation or publicity as the first statement. These erroneous statements continue to appear, and I have finally decided that, in justice to my August Patroness as well as to my humbler self, it is incumbent upon me to correct them, and it seems to me the only proper way to do so is to write a full and true relation of my life at the Palace and my experiences while painting the portraits of Her Majesty the Empress Dowager.

After I got back to America, I kept seeing in newspapers—and hearing about—statements attributed to me that I never made. People claimed that Her Majesty stood over me in threatening poses, forcing me to depict her as a young and beautiful woman! It was said that she refused to compensate me for the portraits, along with a bunch of other equally false statements that appeared daily in the papers. The London “Times,” when discussing the Empress Dowager, said: “Someone has said ‘she has the soul of a tiger in the body of a woman,’ and Miss Carl found the old lady shrewd and tempestuous.” I never made that latter statement, but it felt like enough of a burden to carry. The article was copied in American newspapers, painting me as the author of both the first and second statements. The power of the press has become so immense that it can’t be ignored. It's pointless to stay quiet in a situation like mine; when you do, people put words in your mouth and assign sentiments to you at the whim of the news reporters. If a correction is made, it never seems to get the same circulation or attention as the initial statement. These false claims keep appearing, and I’ve finally decided that, in fairness to my esteemed Patroness and to myself, I need to set the record straight. It seems to me that the only proper way to do this is to write a complete and true account of my life at the Palace and my experiences while painting the portraits of Her Majesty the Empress Dowager.

I know I publish this account at the risk of offending the sensibilities of my Chinese friends, for many of them will never know what called it forth. I know that by so doing I may change any favorable opinion they may have formed as to my good-breeding and discretion. I was on sufficiently intimate terms with Her Majesty and the Ladies of the Court to know that this account will be looked upon by them as an “indiscretion,” to say the least of it.

I know that by sharing this account, I risk upsetting my Chinese friends, as many of them will never understand what prompted me to do so. I realize that this could alter any positive opinions they may have about my manners and judgment. I was close enough to Her Majesty and the Ladies of the Court to expect that they will see this account as at least an “indiscretion.”

In this story of my life at the Palace, I must naturally give some description of Their Majesties and necessarily make some comment upon their characters. In doing this, I will transgress another long-established rule of Chinese Propriety, which makes any comment, xxiii favorable or unfavorable, upon the Sacred Persons of Their Majesties, a breach of etiquette. No act of theirs is ever criticized, no report in reference to them is ever explained, no slander about them is ever refuted by loyal Chinese, and the generality of Chinese are loyal. Thus the falsest statements, not being refuted by those in a position to know, gain in credence until they are reported as facts.

In this story of my life at the Palace, I need to describe Their Majesties and share some thoughts about their personalities. In doing this, I’m going to break a long-standing rule of Chinese propriety, which dictates that any comments—good or bad—about Their Majesties are considered disrespectful. Their actions are never criticized, reports about them are never clarified, and loyal Chinese people never deny any slander against them, and most Chinese people are indeed loyal. As a result, the most untrue statements gain traction and are accepted as facts because those who could clarify them choose not to. xxiii

If my comment on Their Majesties and discussion of their acts be favorable, this will be no palliation from the Chinese standpoint. Any sort of comment will be looked upon as a breach of hospitality. I have absolutely nothing to gain, should I suppress any disagreeable facts I may have learned as to Her Majesty. Should I be willing to sacrifice the truth, in order to please my Chinese friends, this would avail me nothing, for should my account of Her Majesty be construed by them into an apology for her, I would be considered most presumptuous and the enormity of my offense aggravated. Thus I am between two fires. Those who read my account may imagine I am trying to justify Her Majesty and thereby gain her favor; and should the Chinese put this construction on it, my indiscretion will become an offense. Knowing all this, and with the memory of the charming consideration I received at the Chinese Court, I nevertheless feel it is my duty to publish a simple and truthful narrative of my experiences, and I hope I may be pardoned for thus breaking Chinese conventions.

If my comments about Their Majesties and their actions are positive, that won't soften the blow from the Chinese perspective. Any kind of commentary will be seen as a violation of hospitality. I have nothing to gain by hiding any unpleasant truths I've learned about Her Majesty. If I were to sacrifice the truth to appease my Chinese friends, it wouldn't do me any good, because if they interpret my account of Her Majesty as an apology for her, I’d be viewed as incredibly arrogant, and my offense would be considered even worse. I'm stuck in a difficult position. Those who read my account might think I'm trying to defend Her Majesty to win her favor, and if the Chinese view it this way, my indiscretion will become a bigger issue. Aware of all this, and remembering the wonderful kindness I received at the Chinese Court, I still feel it's my duty to present a straightforward and honest account of my experiences, and I hope to be forgiven for breaking Chinese traditions in doing so.

The Boxer rebellion was a frequent topic of conversation at the Palace and I heard a great deal about it from the Ladies of the Court. It was not considered xxiv at all indiscreet to ask questions on this subject, and I did not hesitate to inform myself by asking about things I wished to know. If it be true, as the philosophers say, that “the proper study of mankind is man under his own environment,” I had an opportunity of studying Her Majesty on the right principles. My account of her should, therefore, have some little value, for I am the only European who has ever had a chance to study this remarkable woman in her own milieu, or to look upon the facts of her life from the standpoint within her own circle.

The Boxer Rebellion was a common topic of discussion at the Palace, and I heard a lot about it from the Ladies of the Court. It wasn't considered rude at all to ask questions about this topic, and I didn't hesitate to learn more by asking about what I wanted to know. If it's true, as the philosophers say, that “the proper study of mankind is man under his own environment,” I had a chance to observe Her Majesty in the right context. My account of her should, therefore, have some value, since I am the only European who has ever had the opportunity to study this remarkable woman in her own environment or to view the facts of her life from the perspective of her own circle.

In this simple relation of what I saw of the customs, religious rites and ceremonies, I have also preferred to rest upon my own personal interpretation of the same, rather than to study the learned explanations of the many clever Sinologues, whose works abound. These works may be consulted by those who desire to enter more deeply into things. I had no time to make a comprehensive study of any works on the subject, and I purposely have read nothing and consulted no books on China, wishing to give a fresh impression. As all their curious ceremonies were a matter of course to the Chinese, they had become so petrified by long use and tradition, as to have, in many instances, lost their original signification to most of those who went through them. I could thus get very little help from the Chinese and was forced to put my own interpretation upon things. I feel that, with my limited capacities, and my inexperience as a writer, the only reason for my entering this field at all lies in the interest of what I saw, as I saw it. Notwithstanding the attitude of the Court in this matter, I have decided to run the xxv risk of incurring their displeasure and reprobation, for I feel assured that what I have to say may serve to clear up certain misapprehensions and place Her Majesty the Empress Dowager in more favorable light. What follows is but the simple narration, the unsophisticated interpretation, of an observant painter.

In this straightforward account of what I observed regarding the customs, religious rites, and ceremonies, I have chosen to rely on my own personal interpretations rather than delve into the scholarly explanations of the many knowledgeable Sinologists whose works are plentiful. Those interested in a deeper understanding can refer to these works. I didn’t have the time to conduct an exhaustive study on the subject, and I intentionally avoided reading any books about China, wanting to offer a fresh perspective. Since all their unique ceremonies were normal for the Chinese, they had become so ingrained over time and tradition that, in many cases, they had lost their original meaning for most participants. Therefore, I found little assistance from the Chinese and had to rely on my own interpretations. I believe that, given my limited abilities and inexperience as a writer, the only reason for my involvement in this area is my genuine interest in what I observed. Despite the potential backlash from the Court, I’ve chosen to take the risk of displeasing them, as I am confident that what I have to share could help clarify some misunderstandings and present Her Majesty the Empress Dowager in a more favorable light. What follows is simply the straightforward storytelling and unrefined interpretation of an observant painter. xxv

1-3

WITH THE EMPRESS DOWAGER OF CHINA

CHAPTER I MY PRESENTATION AND FIRST DAY AT THE CHINESE COURT

The day of my first Audience at the Chinese Court, August 5th, we were up betimes at the American Legation, for it takes full three hours to drive out to the Summer Palace from Peking; and punctuality is the etiquette of Oriental as well as of Occidental potentates. Our audience was for half-past ten o’clock, and the portrait of the Empress Dowager was to be begun at eleven; that hour, as well as the day and the month, having been chosen, after much deliberation and many consultations of the almanac, as the most auspicious for beginning work on the first likeness ever made of Her Majesty.

On the day of my first audience at the Chinese Court, August 5th, we got up early at the American Legation because it takes a full three hours to drive to the Summer Palace from Beijing. Being on time is important for both Eastern and Western leaders. Our audience was scheduled for half-past ten, and the portrait of the Empress Dowager was set to start at eleven. That hour, as well as the day and the month, was chosen after a lot of discussion and checking the almanac to be the most favorable for beginning work on the first ever likeness of Her Majesty.

We left the Legation at seven A.M. in the trap of the United States Legation Guard, that being the only vehicle available large enough to carry the party, Mrs. Conger and her interpreter and myself and my painting materials, which included a large canvas and 4 a folding easel. After leaving the City, the drive out to the Summer Palace is through fertile fields and a fair, smiling landscape. It had rained the night before and everything was beautifully fresh. The wet, stone-paved road stretched ahead like a shining stream; the wheat and corn fields along the road were of a brilliant green, with here and there the somber note of a clump of arbor-vitæ, out of which rose the walls of a temple! The distant hills, where lay the Summer Palace, were delicately limned against a soft blue-gray sky, and the whole made an entrancing picture.

We left the Legation at 7 A.M. in the vehicle of the United States Legation Guard, which was the only transport large enough to hold our group—Mrs. Conger, her interpreter, myself, and my painting supplies, including a large canvas and a folding easel. After departing the City, the drive to the Summer Palace takes you through lush fields and a lovely, vibrant landscape. It had rained the night before, making everything look fresh and new. The wet, stone-paved road stretched out ahead like a shining stream; the wheat and corn fields along the way were a brilliant green, with the dark green of a cluster of arbor-vitae here and there, from which the walls of a temple emerged. The distant hills, where the Summer Palace is located, were softly outlined against a gentle blue-gray sky, creating a captivating scene. 4

Soon after leaving Peking the mounted official Legation servants that followed Mrs. Conger’s carriage were joined by a Chinese Guard of Honor sent by the Wai-Wu-Pu (Foreign Office) to escort us to the Palace. After an hour and a half’s drive we rattled through a busy village, past the yellow ruins of a great lama temple, and along the park walls of the summer homes of several Princes of the Imperial Family, and soon came within sight of the beautiful grounds of the Summer Palace with its hills, valleys, canals, and lakes; the hills crowned with tea-houses and temples, the waters of the canals lapping the marble terraces of the Palaces. The red walls and glazed tiles of the yellow and green roofs, the brilliant foliage, freshened by the rain, made a gay picture; and the temples, arches, pagodas, and the many buildings that constitute a Chinese palace gave it the appearance of a whole town rather than of a single palace.

Soon after leaving Beijing, the mounted official servants of the Legation that followed Mrs. Conger’s carriage were joined by a Chinese Honor Guard sent by the Foreign Office to escort us to the Palace. After an hour and a half of driving, we rattled through a busy village, past the yellow ruins of a large lama temple, and along the park walls of the summer homes of several Princes of the Imperial Family. Soon, we caught sight of the beautiful grounds of the Summer Palace with its hills, valleys, canals, and lakes; the hills topped with tea houses and temples, the waters of the canals lapping against the marble terraces of the Palaces. The red walls and glazed tiles of the yellow and green roofs, along with the vibrant foliage freshened by the rain, created a cheerful scene; and the temples, arches, pagodas, and the many buildings that make up a Chinese palace gave it the feel of an entire town rather than just a single palace.

As in all Oriental palaces, upon the very threshold of the outer courts sit the beggar, the lame, the halt, 5 and the blind, gathering rich harvests from the generosity of the high nobles and officials and their myriad retainers as they pass in and out of the Foreign Office and the outer courts of the Palace. The Foreign Office, during the residence of the Court at the Summer Palace, sixteen miles from the Capital, has offices on the left of the great Imperial entrance, in order that state business may be more easily transacted while Their Majesties are in villeggiatura.

As in all Eastern palaces, right at the entrance of the outer courts sit the beggar, the lame, the halt, 5 and the blind, collecting generous donations from the wealthy nobles, officials, and their countless attendants as they come in and out of the Foreign Office and the outer courts of the Palace. The Foreign Office, while the Court resides at the Summer Palace, sixteen miles from the Capital, has offices on the left of the grand Imperial entrance so that state business can be managed more easily while Their Majesties are on vacation.

We alighted at the Foreign Office and were met by a number of officials with their interpreters, coming out to receive us. After readjusting ourselves in the waiting-room, we were met, when we came out, by the Chief Eunuch of the Palace, who conducted us to the red-covered Palace chairs, each carried by six men. They bore us past the Imperial gateway (used only for Their Majesties), through a door of entrance at the left, when we were within the sacred precincts of one of the residences of the Sons of Heaven and within the walls of the favorite Palace of the Empress Dowager! Before we could take in our surroundings, we had been rapidly carried through various courts and gardens, and had come at last to a larger, quadrangular court, filled with pots of rare blooming plants and many beautiful growing shrubs. Here the bearers put down our chairs; we descended and walked through the court, preceded and followed by a number of eunuchs. The great plate-glass doors of the Palace in front of us, blazing with the huge red character “Sho” (longevity), were swung noiselessly back, and we were at last within the Throne-room of Her Imperial Majesty the Empress Dowager of China!

We got off at the Foreign Office and were welcomed by several officials and their interpreters. After we settled in the waiting room, we were greeted by the Chief Eunuch of the Palace, who led us to the red-covered chairs, each carried by six men. They took us past the Imperial gateway (reserved only for Their Majesties) through a side entrance, and we found ourselves in the sacred area of one of the residences of the Sons of Heaven, inside the favored Palace of the Empress Dowager! Before we could fully observe our surroundings, we were quickly taken through various courtyards and gardens, finally arriving at a larger, square courtyard filled with pots of rare blooming plants and many beautiful shrubs. The bearers set down our chairs; we got out and walked through the courtyard, flanked by several eunuchs. The large glass doors of the Palace in front of us, emblazoned with the huge red character “Sho” (longevity), swung open silently, and we were finally in the Throne-room of Her Imperial Majesty the Empress Dowager of China!

A group of Princesses and Ladies-in-waiting stood to receive us. The Ladies Yu-Keng, wife and daughter of a former Chinese Minister to France, stood near the Princesses; and their perfect knowledge of both Chinese and English rendered them delightful mediums of communication between the Princesses and ourselves. Having known these ladies in Paris, it was almost like seeing old friends. They seemed a link between the real, every-day world and this Arabian Nights Palace into which we had been wafted. As we arrived at a quarter-past ten, we were in the Throne-room a few moments before Their Majesties appeared! Their entrance was so simply made, so unobtrusive, that the first I knew of it, noticing a sudden lull, I looked around and saw a charming little lady, with a brilliant smile, greeting Mrs. Conger very cordially. One of the Ladies Yu-Keng whispered, “Her Majesty”; but even after this it seemed almost impossible for me to realize that this kindly looking lady, so remarkably young-looking, with so winning a smile, could be the so-called cruel, implacable tyrant, the redoubtable “old” Empress Dowager, whose name had been on the lips of the world since 1900! A young man, almost boyish in appearance, entered the Throne-room with her: this was the Son of Heaven, the Emperor of China!

A group of princesses and ladies-in-waiting stood to greet us. The Yu-Keng ladies, wife and daughter of a former Chinese minister to France, stood near the princesses, and their fluent knowledge of both Chinese and English made them great communicators between the princesses and us. Having known these ladies in Paris, it felt almost like reconnecting with old friends. They seemed to connect the everyday world with this Arabian Nights palace we had been swept into. As we arrived at a quarter past ten, we were in the throne room for just a moment before Their Majesties appeared! Their entrance was so simple and understated that the first hint I had of it was when I noticed a sudden silence, looked around, and saw a charming young lady, with a bright smile, warmly greeting Mrs. Conger. One of the Yu-Keng ladies whispered, “Her Majesty”; yet even after that, it still seemed hard for me to believe that this kind-looking, remarkably youthful woman, with such an inviting smile, could be the so-called cruel and unyielding tyrant, the formidable “old” Empress Dowager, whose name had been on everyone’s lips since 1900! A young man, almost boyish in appearance, entered the throne room with her: this was the Son of Heaven, the Emperor of China!

After greeting Mrs. Conger, the Empress Dowager looked toward me, and I advanced with a reverence. She met me half-way and extended her hand with another brilliant smile which quite won me, and I spontaneously raised her dainty fingers to my lips. This was not in the protocol program. It was an 7 involuntary and surprised tribute on my part to her unexpected charm. She then turned and with graceful gesture extended her hand toward the Emperor and murmured “The Emperor,” and watched me closely while I made His Majesty the formal reverence. He acknowledged the salutation by a slight bow and a stereotyped smile, but I felt that he, too, was closely scrutinizing me as his shrewd glance swept my person.

After greeting Mrs. Conger, the Empress Dowager looked my way, and I stepped forward with respect. She met me halfway and offered her hand with another brilliant smile that completely won me over, and I instinctively kissed her delicate fingers. This wasn't part of the official protocol. It was an 7 unintentional and surprised gesture on my part in response to her unexpected charm. She then turned, gracefully extending her hand toward the Emperor and softly said, “The Emperor,” while watching me closely as I performed a formal bow to His Majesty. He acknowledged my greeting with a slight bow and a rehearsed smile, but I sensed that he was also carefully examining me as his sharp gaze took in my appearance.

After a few moments’ conversation, interpreted by the Ladies Yu-Keng, Her Majesty ordered my painting things brought in, while she retired to be dressed in the gown she had decided upon as appropriate for the portrait.

After talking for a few moments, with the Ladies Yu-Keng translating, Her Majesty had my painting supplies brought in while she went to get changed into the gown she had chosen for the portrait.

After she had left the Throne-room, I tried to take in the conditions of the place for painting. The hall was large and spacious, but the light was false, the upper parts of the windows being covered with paper shades. The only place in the hall where there was any sort of light for painting was in front of the great plate-glass doors, and this was but a small space in which to begin so large a picture. To get a light upon the portrait, as well as upon the sitter, I should be forced to place my canvas very near the throne where she was to sit; and, with so large a portrait as I was to paint, this would be a great disadvantage. When I thought I must paint here, and begin at once upon the canvas which was to be the final picture, my heart fell! Her Majesty wished, above all, to have a large portrait, and I was told she would not understand my beginning on a small canvas or making any preliminary studies—that if I did not begin on the 8 big canvas at once she would probably not give me any more sittings; in fact we had that morning been told at the Foreign Office that Her Majesty was to give me but two sittings, so there was no alternative! There could be no preliminary poses, no choice from several sketches, and only a few moments in which to choose the pose, which must be final—and I totally ignorant of the possibilities of my sitter or her characteristics.

After she left the throne room, I tried to take in the conditions for painting. The hall was large and spacious, but the lighting was poor, with the upper parts of the windows covered in paper shades. The only spot in the hall where there was any decent light for painting was in front of the big plate-glass doors, and this was just a small area to start such a large picture. To get enough light on both the portrait and the sitter, I would have to position my canvas very close to the throne where she was to sit; and with a portrait of that size, this was a significant disadvantage. When I realized I had to paint here and start right away on the canvas that would be the final picture, my heart sank! Her Majesty particularly wanted a large portrait, and I was told she wouldn’t understand me starting on a small canvas or making any preliminary studies—that if I didn't begin on the big canvas immediately, she probably wouldn’t give me any more sittings. In fact, that morning at the Foreign Office, we were told that Her Majesty would only give me two sittings, so there was no choice! There could be no preliminary poses, no selection from several sketches, and only a few moments to choose the pose, which had to be final—and I was completely clueless about the possibilities of my sitter or her characteristics.

Luckily, I had but a few moments to consider all these adverse circumstances, for Her Majesty soon returned! She had been clothed in a gown of Imperial yellow, brocaded in the wistaria vine in realistic colors and richly embroidered in pearls. It was made, in the graceful Manchu fashion, in one piece, reaching from the neck to the floor; fastened from the right shoulder to the hem with jade buttons. The stuff of the gown was of a stiff, transparent silk, and was worn over a softer under-gown of the same color and length. At the top button, from the right shoulder, hung a string of eighteen enormous pearls separated by flat pieces of brilliant, transparent green jade. From the same button was suspended a large, carved pale ruby, which had yellow silk tassels terminating in two immense pear-shaped pearls of rare beauty! At each side, just under the arms, hung a pale-blue, embroidered silk handkerchief and a scent-bag with long, black silk tassels. Around her throat was a pale-blue, two-inch-wide cravat, embroidered in gold with large pearls. This cravat had one end tucked into the opening on the shoulder of her gown, and the other hanging. Her jet-black hair 9 was parted in the middle, carried smoothly over the temples, and brought to the top of the head in a large, flat coil.

Luckily, I only had a few moments to think about all these challenges, because Her Majesty soon came back! She was dressed in a gown of Imperial yellow, adorned with realistic-colored wistaria vines and richly embroidered with pearls. It was designed in the elegant Manchu style, made in one piece, reaching from her neck to the floor, and fastened from her right shoulder to the hem with jade buttons. The fabric of the gown was a stiff, transparent silk, worn over a softer under-gown of the same color and length. From the top button on her right shoulder hung a string of eighteen large pearls, separated by flat pieces of bright, clear green jade. From the same button, there was a large, carved pale ruby, featuring yellow silk tassels that ended in two huge, beautifully shaped pearls! On each side, just below her arms, there were pale-blue, embroidered silk handkerchiefs and a scent-bag with long black silk tassels. Around her neck was a pale-blue, two-inch-wide cravat, embroidered in gold with large pearls. One end of this cravat was tucked into the opening on her gown's shoulder, while the other hung down. Her jet-black hair was parted in the middle, smoothed over her temples, and styled into a large, flat coil at the top of her head. 9

Formerly all Manchu ladies who have marvelous hair carried the hair itself out from this coil over a golden, jade, or tortoise-shell sword-like pin, into a large-winged bow. The Empress Dowager and the Ladies of the Court have substituted satin instead of the hair, for this wing-like construction, as being more practicable and less liable to get out of order. So satin-like and glossy is their hair that it is difficult to tell where it ends and the satin begins. A band of pearls, with an immense “flaming pearl” in the center, encircled the coil. On either side of the winged bow were bunches of natural flowers and a profusion of jewels. From the right side of the head-dress hung a tassel of eight strings of beautiful pearls reaching to the shoulder.

Previously, all Manchu women with amazing hair styled it by arranging it over a golden, jade, or tortoise-shell pin shaped like a sword, creating a large-winged bow. The Empress Dowager and the ladies at court have replaced the hair with satin for this wing-like design, as it is more practical and less likely to fall apart. Their hair is so shiny and sleek that it’s hard to tell where it ends and the satin starts. A band of pearls, featuring a large “flaming pearl” in the center, wrapped around the coil. On either side of the winged bow were clusters of natural flowers and lots of jewels. From the right side of the headdress hung a tassel made of eight strands of beautiful pearls that reached down to the shoulder.

She wore bracelets and rings, and on each hand had two nail-protectors, for she wore her nails so long the protectors were necessary adjuncts. These nail-protectors were worn on the third and fourth fingers of either hand; those on the left being of brilliant green jade, while those on the right hand were of gold, set with rubies and pearls.

She wore bracelets and rings, and on each hand had two nail protectors, since her nails were so long that the protectors were essential. These nail protectors were on the third and fourth fingers of both hands; the ones on the left were made of bright green jade, while the ones on the right hand were gold, adorned with rubies and pearls.

Her Majesty advanced with animation and asked me where the Double Dragon Throne was to be placed. After the eunuchs had put it where I said, she took her seat. Although not more than five feet tall, as she wears the Manchu shoes with six-inch-high, stilt-like soles, to avoid throwing the knees up higher than the lap she must sit upon cushions, and when 10 she is seated she looks a much larger woman than when standing. She took a conventional pose and told me I might make any suggestion I wished; but I had made up my mind that the pose and surroundings must be as typical and characteristic as possible, and as I had had no time to study my August Sitter I thought she would know best as to her position and accessories.

Her Majesty approached energetically and asked me where to place the Double Dragon Throne. After the eunuchs set it up where I indicated, she sat down. Though she’s only about five feet tall, she wears Manchu shoes with six-inch stilt-like soles, which helps her keep her knees lower than her lap, so she must sit on cushions. When she’s seated, she appears much larger than when she’s standing. She assumed a typical pose and told me I could make any suggestions I wanted; however, I had decided that the pose and the setting needed to be as traditional and characteristic as possible. Since I hadn't had the chance to study my esteemed subject, I thought she would know best about her position and the accessories. 10

It was nearing eleven!

It was almost eleven!

Beginning anything is momentous. Every artist knows how the wonderful possibilities of the bare canvas in its virgin purity standing before him inspires him with almost a feeling of awe; how he hesitates about beginning, so great is the responsibility. This bare canvas may become a masterpiece, the full expression of his thought, or it may come forth a maimed and distorted effort. To-day in these strange surroundings, with these unusual and unfavorable conditions, my hesitancy was greater than usual; for upon this beginning depended my being able to go on with the portrait.

Beginning anything is significant. Every artist understands how the amazing possibilities of an untouched canvas in its pristine state inspire a sense of awe; how they pause before starting because of the great responsibility involved. This blank canvas could turn into a masterpiece, fully expressing their thoughts, or it could end up being a flawed and distorted attempt. Today, in these strange circumstances with unusual and challenging conditions, my hesitation was greater than usual; because this first step determined whether I could continue with the portrait.

My hands trembled! The inscrutable eyes of the wonderful woman I was to paint, fixed piercingly upon me, were also disconcerting; but just then the eighty-five clocks in this particular Throne-room began to chime, play airs, and strike the hour in eighty-five different ways. The auspicious moment had come! I raised my charcoal and put the first stroke upon the canvas of the first portrait that had ever been painted of the Empress Dowager of Great China, the powerful “Tze-Shi.” The Princesses, Ladies-in-waiting, the high eunuchs and attendants, 11 stood in breathless silence around, intently watching my every movement, for everything touching Her Majesty is a solemnity.

My hands shook! The mysterious eyes of the incredible woman I was about to paint looked intensely at me, which was also unsettling; but just then the eighty-five clocks in this particular throne room started to chime, play tunes, and strike the hour in eighty-five different ways. The moment had arrived! I lifted my charcoal and made the first mark on the canvas of the very first portrait that had ever been painted of the Empress Dowager of Great China, the powerful “Tze-Shi.” The princesses, ladies-in-waiting, high eunuchs, and attendants, 11 stood in silent anticipation around me, closely watching my every move, because anything related to Her Majesty is a serious matter.

For a few moments I heard the faintest ticking of the eighty-five clocks as if they were great Cathedral bells clanging in my ears, and my charcoal on the canvas sounded like some mighty saw drawn back and forth. Then, happily, I became interested, and absolutely unconscious of anything but my sitter and my work. I worked steadily on for what seemed to be a very short time, when Her Majesty turned to the interpreter and said “enough work had been done for that day”; the conditions had been fulfilled and the picture begun at the auspicious moment. She added that she knew I must be tired from our long drive out from Peking, as well as from my work. She said I must rest and we must partake of some refreshments. She then descended from the throne and came over to look at the sketch.

For a few moments, I heard the faint ticking of the eighty-five clocks as if they were massive cathedral bells ringing in my ears, and my charcoal on the canvas sounded like a powerful saw moving back and forth. Then, happily, I became so focused that I was completely unaware of anything except my subject and my work. I worked steadily for what felt like a very short time when Her Majesty turned to the interpreter and said, “enough work has been done for today”; the conditions had been met, and the painting had begun at the right moment. She added that she knew I must be tired from our long drive from Peking, as well as from my work. She said I should take a break and that we should have some refreshments. She then got up from the throne and came over to look at the sketch.

I had blocked in the whole figure and had drawn the head with some accuracy. So strong and impressive is her personality, I had been able to get enough of her character into this rough whole to make it a sort of likeness. After looking critically at it for a few moments, she expressed herself as well pleased with what had been done, and paid me some compliments on my talent as an artist! I felt instinctively, however, this was due more to her natural courtesy—her desire to put me at ease—than to an actual expression of her opinion. After she had looked at the portrait, she called Mrs. Conger and the Princesses to see what had been done, and it was discussed for a few 12 moments. Then she turned to me and said the portrait interested her greatly, that she should like to see it go on. She asked me, looking straight into my eyes the while, if I would care to remain at the Palace for a few days, that she might give me sittings at her leisure.

I had outlined the entire figure and had drawn the head pretty accurately. Her personality is so strong and impressive that I was able to capture enough of her character in this rough draft to make it somewhat resemble her. After examining it closely for a moment, she said she was quite pleased with what I had done and praised my talent as an artist! I sensed, though, that this was more because of her natural politeness—her wish to make me feel comfortable—than a true reflection of her opinion. Once she had looked at the portrait, she called Mrs. Conger and the Princesses to view it, and they discussed it for a few moments. Then she turned to me and said she found the portrait very interesting and would like to see it progress. She asked me, looking straight into my eyes, if I would be willing to stay at the Palace for a few days so she could give me sittings at her convenience.

This invitation filled me with joy. The reports I had heard of Her Majesty’s hatred of the foreigner had been dispelled by this first Audience and what I had seen there. I felt that the most consummate actress could not so belie her personality, and I accepted, without a moment’s hesitation, the invitation so graciously tendered. I thought thus I should be able to get a good beginning for a satisfactory likeness of this most remarkable and interesting woman. My sanguine heart even leaped forward to the possibility of probably finishing the portrait entirely at the Palace. Her Majesty seemed pleased at my acceptance and said she would try to make me happy. She then withdrew and we were served to luncheon.

This invitation filled me with joy. The rumors I had heard about Her Majesty’s dislike for foreigners were put to rest by this first meeting and what I witnessed there. I felt that even the best actress couldn't fake her character like that, and I accepted the kind invitation without a second thought. I believed this would give me a great start to create a true likeness of this fascinating and extraordinary woman. My hopeful heart even raced at the thought of possibly finishing the portrait entirely at the Palace. Her Majesty seemed pleased with my acceptance and said she would try to make me happy. She then left, and we were served lunch.

The Empress Dowager always eats alone. When she has guests the Princess Imperial, as the first of the Ladies of the Palace, acts as hostess. The guests of honor are placed at her right and left. The Princesses, Ladies Yu-Keng, Mrs. Conger, and myself formed the guests on this occasion.

The Empress Dowager always dines alone. When she has guests, the Princess Imperial, as the top Lady of the Palace, takes on the role of hostess. The guests of honor are seated to her right and left. On this occasion, the guests included the Princesses, Ladies Yu-Keng, Mrs. Conger, and me.

The table, decorated with flowers and fruit, groaned under the many Chinese dishes placed thereon. Foreign dishes were served à la Russe. The Chinese dishes, attractive to the eye as well as to the senses of smell and taste, appealed to me at once; though I had been told one must cultivate a taste for them. There were 13 foreign table waters and wines as well as Chinese drinks. We did full justice to the viands, tasting everything and trying to use the chop-sticks, though knives and forks were also placed for each of the guests.

The table, adorned with flowers and fruit, sagged under the weight of the many Chinese dishes set on it. Foreign dishes were served in the Russian style. The Chinese dishes, appealing to both the eye and the senses of smell and taste, immediately caught my interest, even though I had heard that one needs to develop a taste for them. There were 13 foreign table waters and wines alongside Chinese beverages. We truly enjoyed the food, tasting everything and attempting to use the chopsticks, although knives and forks were also provided for each guest.

After the repast Her Majesty and the young Empress, the first wife of the Emperor Kwang-Hsu, came in. Her Majesty presented the young Empress with the same grace with which she had indicated the Emperor at the morning Audience, repeating her title, “The Empress,” as she did so. Immediately behind the young Empress was the only secondary wife of the Emperor, who was also presented by the Empress Dowager.

After the meal, Her Majesty and the young Empress, the first wife of Emperor Kwang-Hsu, entered. Her Majesty introduced the young Empress with the same elegance she had shown when addressing the Emperor at the morning audience, repeating her title, “The Empress,” as she did so. Right behind the young Empress was the Emperor's only secondary wife, who was also introduced by the Empress Dowager.

Then Her Majesty told Mrs. Conger she had her Players at the Theater that day, and she invited us to come and hear them. The Empress Dowager and Mrs. Conger led the way and I followed with the young Empress and Princesses. We passed through several courts, all gay with flowers, and finally reached the largest of all, the Court of the Theater. The Theater projects into this rectangular court and consists of a covered rostrum, open on three sides with doors at the back for the entrance and exit of the actors. In front of the stage and across the open, flower-filled court, with splendid bronze ornaments here and there, is a building which might be called the Imperial loge. This is from sixty to eighty feet long with a pillared stone verandah and occupies one entire side of the court. Huge panes of plate-glass, the full height of the building, enable Her Majesty and the Emperor to see, from within, all that passes on the stage, and they can, 14 of course, hear everything perfectly. The buildings which form the other sides of this court, those which run at right angles to the Imperial loge, are divided into small stalls, each about the size of an ordinary opera box. There are no chairs in these boxes, the occupants sit Turkish fashion upon the floor, for no courtier can occupy a chair when in the presence of Their Majesties. These side rooms are for the use of the high officials and Princes who are sometimes invited by Their Majesties to be present at the Imperial Theatrical Representations.

Then Her Majesty told Mrs. Conger that she had her performers at the theater that day and invited us to come and watch them. The Empress Dowager and Mrs. Conger led the way, and I followed with the young Empress and the Princesses. We passed through several courts, all bright with flowers, and finally reached the largest one, the Court of the Theater. The theater extends into this rectangular court and consists of a covered stage that’s open on three sides, with doors at the back for the actors to enter and exit. In front of the stage and across the open, flower-filled court, with magnificent bronze decorations here and there, is a building that could be called the Imperial loge. This structure is about sixty to eighty feet long, has a pillared stone veranda, and occupies one entire side of the court. Huge panes of plate glass, the full height of the building, allow Her Majesty and the Emperor to see everything happening on stage from inside, and they can, 14 of course, hear everything perfectly. The buildings that form the other sides of this court, those that run perpendicular to the Imperial loge, are divided into small stalls, each about the size of a regular opera box. There are no chairs in these boxes; the occupants sit on the floor in a Turkish fashion because no courtier can sit in a chair when in the presence of Their Majesties. These side rooms are for the high officials and Princes who are sometimes invited by Their Majesties to attend the Imperial Theatrical Performances.

On my first day at Court there were no other invited guests; the Players had been summoned in our honor. Her Majesty sat in a yellow-covered chair on the red-pillared verandah of the Imperial loge. The Emperor was seated on a yellow stool at her left, the place of honor in China. Mrs. Conger and I were on Her Majesty’s right, the young Empresses, Princesses, and Ladies-in-waiting standing around. After seeing two or three acts of a play of which we understood little more than the pantomime, but which was interesting from its very novelty, Mrs. Conger arose to take leave of Their Majesties and the Princesses. After this was accomplished, I accompanied her to one of the outer courts and there told her good-by.

On my first day at Court, there were no other invited guests; the Players had been summoned in our honor. Her Majesty sat in a chair covered in yellow on the red-pillared verandah of the Imperial loge. The Emperor was seated on a yellow stool to her left, the place of honor in China. Mrs. Conger and I were on Her Majesty’s right, while the young Empresses, Princesses, and Ladies-in-waiting stood around. After watching two or three acts of a play that we understood little more than the pantomime, but which was interesting due to its novelty, Mrs. Conger got up to take her leave of Their Majesties and the Princesses. Once that was done, I accompanied her to one of the outer courts and said goodbye there.

When she left, I was alone in the Palace, the first foreigner to be domiciled in any residence of a Son of Heaven since the time of Marco Polo, and the only foreigner who had ever been within the Ladies’ Precincts. I had a curious feeling of having been transported into a strange world. A sense of loneliness crept over me, 15 and I feared the strangeness of my position might affect my work, and that, after all, I should not accomplish what I had remained in the Palace to do. I stood for a few minutes pondering my position, but was soon joined by the Ladies Yu-Keng with a message from the Empress Dowager that I need not return to the Theater, as she had gone to rest. She sent word that she thought it would be well for me to go to my apartments and try to sleep a little. She hoped I would be happy in the Palace and find the pavilion she had set aside for me comfortable. She added that I must not hesitate to order anything I wished and must make myself perfectly at home.

When she left, I was alone in the Palace, the first foreigner to live in any residence of a Son of Heaven since the time of Marco Polo, and the only foreigner who had ever been within the Ladies’ Precincts. I felt oddly like I had been transported to a strange world. A wave of loneliness washed over me, 15 and I worried that the oddness of my situation might impact my work and that I might not achieve what I had come to the Palace to do. I stood for a few minutes reflecting on my situation, but soon I was joined by the Ladies Yu-Keng with a message from the Empress Dowager that I didn’t need to return to the Theater, as she had gone to rest. She sent word that she thought it would be good for me to go to my apartments and try to sleep a bit. She hoped I would be happy in the Palace and find the pavilion she had set up for me comfortable. She also said I should feel free to request anything I wanted and make myself completely at home.

The Summer Palace, like all Chinese palaces and temples, and even the dwelling-houses of the rich, consists of a series of verandahed buildings, built on stone foundations which rise about eight feet from the ground, generally of one story, around the four sides of rectangular or square courts, connected by open verandah-like corridors. The apartments set aside for my private use, while in the Precincts, were to the left of the Empress Dowager’s Throne-room and quite near it—in order that I might go and come to my painting with ease. These apartments occupied an entire pavilion. It was charming. Its shining marble floors and beautifully carved partitions, its painted walls and charming outlook over flowery courts, made it a delightful spot. These pavilions at the Palace have movable partitions and the rooms may be made as small as closets or as large as the whole building.

The Summer Palace, like all Chinese palaces and temples, as well as the homes of wealthy people, is made up of a series of verandahed buildings built on stone foundations that rise about eight feet off the ground. They are usually one story high and surround rectangular or square courtyards, connected by open, veranda-like corridors. The rooms reserved for my personal use while I was in the Precincts were to the left of the Empress Dowager’s Throne room and quite close to it, so I could easily come and go for my painting. These rooms filled an entire pavilion. It was lovely. The shining marble floors, beautifully carved partitions, painted walls, and charming view over flowery courtyards made it a delightful place. These pavilions at the Palace feature movable partitions, allowing the rooms to be as small as closets or as large as the entire building.

My pavilion consisted of two sitting-rooms, a dining-room, and a charming bedroom, separated from each 16 other by screen-like walls of beautifully carved open woodwork, with blue silk showing through the interstices. In the larger spaces were artistic panels of flowers painted on white silk, alternating with poems and quotations from the classics, in the picturesque, ideographic writing of the Chinese. On one of the solid walls was a large water-color painting on white silk, representing a realistically painted peafowl in a flowery field; an immense mirror formed the other solid wall. The plate-glass lower windows had blue silken curtains, the upper windows of white paper were rolled down, and the rich perfume of the flowers in the court came in. In my honor, several foreign “objets de virtu” adorned the tables and window-shelves. The bed, a couch built into an alcove, was covered with blue satin cushions; and the windows were shaded from the outside by blue silken awnings, which gave a soft subdued light to the room, that made it very cool and restful-looking. I found the couch so inviting I was soon really resting, and the events of the day passed before my mental vision in kaleidoscopic array. Although the cushions of the bed were harder than I had been accustomed to, and the dozen or more eunuchs, who had been set aside for my service, were whispering just outside my window to be ready for any call, I soon fell asleep from sheer exhaustion and reaction from the unusual events of the day.

My pavilion had two sitting rooms, a dining room, and a lovely bedroom, separated from each other by screen-like walls of beautifully carved open woodwork, with blue silk showing through the gaps. In the larger areas, there were artistic panels of flowers painted on white silk, alternating with poems and quotes from the classics, in the beautiful, pictographic writing of the Chinese. On one solid wall, there was a large watercolor painting on white silk depicting a realistically painted peafowl in a flower-filled field; an enormous mirror made up the other solid wall. The plate-glass lower windows had blue silk curtains, the upper windows were covered with rolled-down white paper, and the rich fragrance of the flowers in the courtyard drifted in. To honor me, several foreign decorative objects adorned the tables and window shelves. The bed, a couch built into an alcove, was covered with blue satin cushions, and the windows were shaded from the outside by blue silk awnings, which cast a soft, muted light in the room, making it look cool and inviting. I found the couch so comfortable that I soon began to relax, and the events of the day played out in my mind like a colorful kaleidoscope. Even though the cushions were harder than what I was used to and the dozen or so eunuchs assigned to serve me were whispering just outside my window, ready for any call, I ultimately fell asleep from sheer exhaustion and the aftereffects of the day’s unusual events.

At five o’clock one of the Ladies Yu-Keng knocked at my door to tell me the Empress Dowager was awake, and had asked that I come up to the Throne-room as soon as I was ready. When we went up she 17 called me to her side and said she hoped I had rested well, that I found my apartments comfortable; she repeated again the wish that I would be happy with her. She said we would not paint any more for that day, but on the morrow we would have another and longer sitting for the portrait. She begged me to let her know if there was anything I cared for particularly, that she might order it for me.

At five o’clock, one of the ladies, Yu-Keng, knocked on my door to let me know that the Empress Dowager was awake and wanted me to come to the Throne room as soon as I was ready. When we arrived, she 17 called me to her side and expressed her hope that I had rested well and found my rooms comfortable. She repeated her wish for me to be happy with her. She mentioned that we wouldn’t paint anymore for the day, but tomorrow we would have another, longer session for the portrait. She asked me to let her know if there was anything specific I wanted so she could arrange it for me.

The Empress Dowager then dined alone, after which the young Empress and the Princesses led me into the Throne-room, and we dined at Her Majesty’s table, her seat being left vacant. The young Empress occupied the place at the left of this vacant seat, and had me on her left. When we had finished dinner, at which the young Empress and the Ladies were most considerate of me, seeming to try to make me feel at ease, we went up to take our leave of the Empress Dowager. After this was accomplished we left the Throne-room, and made our adieus to the young Empress and Princesses, and left the Imperial inclosure for the Palace of the Emperor’s Father, which Her Majesty had set aside for the use of the Ladies Yu-Keng and myself while I was at work on the portrait.

The Empress Dowager had dinner by herself, and afterward, the young Empress and the Princesses took me into the Throne-room, where we had dinner at Her Majesty’s table, with her seat left empty. The young Empress sat to the left of this empty seat, and I was on her left. When we finished dinner, the young Empress and the ladies were very kind to me, doing their best to make me feel comfortable. After that, we went up to say goodbye to the Empress Dowager. Once that was done, we left the Throne-room, said our farewells to the young Empress and the Princesses, and left the Imperial grounds for the Palace of the Emperor’s Father, which Her Majesty had reserved for Ladies Yu-Keng and me while I worked on the portrait.

CHAPTER II THE PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF HER MAJESTY—A CHINESE MEAL— BOATING

I was eager to be off the next morning, to have the promised long sitting from Her Majesty. The sitting of the day before had but whetted my desire for further work on the portrait. When we arrived within the Precincts we met the Empress Dowager and the Emperor coming out of the Great Audience Hall from their joint Audience. When Her Majesty saw us she stopped, as did the whole train of her attendant Ladies and eunuchs. She called me up to her side, took my hand, and asked me how I had rested and “whether I felt ready for work.” This question showed her penetration, for she had seen the day before, from my eagerness and the breathless haste with which I used every moment, that my work was my first object, and she smiled when she put the query. I walked along by her side from the Audience Hall to the Throne-room where I had begun the portrait of the day before. When we reached the Throne-room she was divested of her official vestments, took a cup of tea, and called one of her tiring-women to bring her the dress and ornaments worn the day before, and she prepared to sit for me the second time.

I was excited to get started the next morning for the promised long sitting with Her Majesty. The previous day's session had only intensified my desire to continue working on the portrait. When we arrived within the Precincts, we encountered the Empress Dowager and the Emperor coming out of the Great Audience Hall after their joint Audience. When Her Majesty saw us, she stopped, along with her entire entourage of attendant ladies and eunuchs. She called me over to her side, took my hand, and asked how I had rested and “if I was ready to work.” This question showed her insight, as she had noticed the day before, from my eagerness and the rush with which I used every moment, that my work was my top priority, and she smiled when she asked. I walked alongside her from the Audience Hall to the Throne-room, where I had started the portrait the day before. When we reached the Throne-room, she took off her official attire, had a cup of tea, and called one of her maids to bring her the dress and accessories she wore the day before, preparing to sit for me a second time.

At this second sitting I looked at the Empress Dowager critically. I feared that the agreeable impression I had formed, the day before, of herself and her personal appearance had probably been too hasty, the result of the unusual glamour in which I had begun the portrait; I thought perhaps the Oriental environment had dazzled me and prevented my seeing the Empress Dowager as she really was, and I looked forward to a disillusion. As she sat there, upon the throne, before she was quite ready for me to begin, before she had transfixed me with her penetrating glance, before she knew I was looking at her, I scanned her person and face with all the penetration I could bring to bear, and this is what I saw:

At this second meeting, I examined the Empress Dowager closely. I worried that the positive impression I had of her and her appearance the day before might have been too quick, influenced by the unique charm surrounding the portrait session; I thought maybe the Eastern atmosphere had dazzled me and kept me from seeing her as she truly was, and I braced myself for a reality check. As she sat there on the throne, before she was fully ready for me to start, before her intense gaze had held me, before she realized I was observing her, I looked at her face and figure with all the scrutiny I could muster, and here’s what I saw:

A perfectly proportioned figure, with head well set upon her shoulders and a fine presence; really beautiful hands, daintily small and high-bred in shape; a symmetrical, well-formed head, with a good development above the rather large ears; jet-black hair, smoothly parted over a fine, broad brow; delicate, well-arched eyebrows; brilliant, black eyes, set perfectly straight in the head; a high nose, of the type the Chinese call “noble,” broad between the eyes and on a line with the forehead; an upper lip of great firmness, a rather large but beautiful mouth with mobile, red lips, which, when parted over her firm white teeth, gave her smile a rare charm; a strong chin, but not of exaggerated firmness and with no marks of obstinacy.[1] Had I not known she was nearing her sixty-ninth year, I should have thought her a well-preserved woman of forty. Being a widow, she used no cosmetics. Her face had the natural glow of 20 health, and one could see that exquisite care and attention were bestowed upon everything concerning her toilet. Personal neatness and an excellent taste in the choice of becoming colors and ornaments enhanced this wonderfully youthful appearance, and a look of keen interest in her surroundings and remarkable intelligence crowned all these physical qualities and made an unusually attractive personality.

A perfectly proportioned figure, with her head nicely balanced on her shoulders and a striking presence; truly beautiful hands, elegantly small and refined in shape; a symmetrical, well-formed head, with good shape above her rather large ears; jet-black hair, smoothly parted over a lovely, broad forehead; delicate, well-arched eyebrows; bright, black eyes, perfectly aligned in her face; a high nose, which the Chinese would call "noble," broad between the eyes and in line with the forehead; a firm upper lip, a somewhat large but attractive mouth with soft, red lips that, when parted to reveal her strong white teeth, gave her smile a rare charm; a strong chin, but not overly firm and with no signs of stubbornness.[1] If I didn’t know she was approaching her sixty-ninth year, I would think she was a well-preserved woman in her forties. Being a widow, she didn’t use any makeup. Her face had a natural glow of 20 health, and it was clear that she put exquisite care and attention into everything about her appearance. Personal neatness and a great taste in choosing flattering colors and accessories enhanced this wonderfully youthful look, and a keen interest in her surroundings along with remarkable intelligence rounded out all these physical qualities, creating an unusually attractive personality.

When I was so far in my study of her appearance, the Empress Dowager had finished speaking to her attendants, had settled herself to her satisfaction on the throne, and she turned to me and asked “what part of the portrait I was to work on.” I had been told she would be much pleased if I would paint in the face. Thinking it was important to please her at the outset, instead of perfecting and advancing the drawing of the whole figure, as I should have done, I began on the face; first correcting the drawing as far as possible and then putting in a thin wash of color. During the sitting the Ladies, attendants, and eunuchs were coming and going; she took tea and conversed, but she seemed to understand that she must keep her head in the same position, and she would look over apologetically at me when she moved it. I did not wish her to be stiff, and preferred her moving a little to sitting like a statue. Her Majesty, like all Oriental ladies, smokes, and during the sitting the eunuchs or some of the Princesses brought her either the graceful water-pipe, of which she would take a few whiffs, or she would indulge in European cigarettes. She never allowed the latter to touch her lips, but used a long cigarette-holder. She was extremely 21 graceful in her use of both the cigarette and water-pipe.

When I was deeply focused on her appearance, the Empress Dowager had finished speaking to her attendants, settled into her throne comfortably, and turned to me to ask, “Which part of the portrait am I supposed to work on?” I had been informed that she would be very pleased if I painted the face. Thinking it was crucial to impress her from the beginning, instead of refining and progressing with the entire figure as I should have, I started with the face; first adjusting the drawing as much as I could and then applying a thin wash of color. During the session, ladies, attendants, and eunuchs were coming and going; she had tea and chatted, but she seemed to understand the need to keep her head in the same position and would look over at me apologetically when she moved it. I didn’t want her to be stiff, and I preferred her to move a bit rather than sit still like a statue. Her Majesty, like all Oriental women, smoked, and during the session, eunuchs or some of the Princesses brought her either the elegant water-pipe, of which she would take a few puffs, or she would enjoy European cigarettes. She never let the latter touch her lips directly, using a long cigarette holder instead. She was incredibly 21 graceful with both the cigarette and the water-pipe.

After little more than an hour’s work Her Majesty decided that enough had been done for the morning and that we both needed rest! She came over to look at the face, and it was easy to see that she liked it much better now that the color was being put in. She stood behind me, discussing it for some time, and said she wished it were possible for some one else to pose for the face, so that she might sit and watch it grow. She thought it very wonderful that on the flat canvas the relief of the face could be represented. She then turned to me and said she knew I must be tired both mentally and bodily, as I stand to my work, advised me to go to my pavilion, have lunch, and rest, and added that she would try to give me another sitting in the afternoon before we went out for some sort of promenade.

After a little over an hour of work, Her Majesty decided that we had done enough for the morning and that we both needed a break! She came over to check out the face, and it was clear that she liked it much better now that the color was being added. She stood behind me, discussing it for a while, and mentioned that she wished someone else could pose for the face so she could sit and watch it develop. She thought it was amazing that the relief of the face could be depicted on a flat canvas. She then turned to me and said she knew I must be tired both mentally and physically since I was standing while working. She advised me to go to my pavilion, have lunch, and rest, and added that she would try to give me another sitting in the afternoon before we went out for some kind of stroll.

I returned to my pavilion with the Ladies Yu-Keng, whom Her Majesty had appointed to keep me company for the meals in my own quarters. There was a young Manchu girl at Court whose father had been an attaché at Berlin, who spoke German and English; she, also, had been ordered by Her Majesty to take her meals with us, so that I might have pleasant company and be able to converse in my own language and have proper relaxation during my meals. Besides, I did not know enough Chinese to direct the servants or make my wants known, and these Ladies were Her Majesty’s interpreters.

I went back to my pavilion with the Ladies Yu-Keng, whom Her Majesty had assigned to keep me company during meals in my own space. There was a young Manchu girl at Court whose father had worked as an attaché in Berlin; she spoke German and English. Her Majesty had also asked her to join us for meals so I could enjoy pleasant company, speak my own language, and relax properly while eating. Plus, I didn’t know enough Chinese to communicate with the servants or express my needs, and these Ladies were Her Majesty’s interpreters.

The meals at the Palace were all of the most lavish description, twenty or thirty dishes being placed 22 upon the table at the beginning of the meal, while macaroni, rice, and a few other things were served from a side table. The Chinese are passed masters in the culinary art, and the delicacies seen at good Chinese tables are fit for a repast of Lucullus. Sharks’ fins, deers’ sinews, birds’ tongues, rare fish, bird’s-nest soups, fish brains, shrimps’ eggs, and many other extraordinary dishes make up the every-day menu. No one can cook goose, duck, and in fact all fowls and game, to such perfection as the Chinese. Their soups are of a delicacy and flavor quite unequaled. Their breads and cakes seem to the foreigner, at first, the least delectable of their viands; their bread particularly, which is steamed instead of baked, is not tempting; but when you get over or rather through the raw-looking outside, with its five cochineal spots surmounting its pyramidal form, it is very sweet and wholesome. It is made of gray flour, as the Chinese do not believe in whitening the flour as we do. They make delicious creams, as to consistency; and these and their sweets generally are much esteemed by the foreigners.

The meals at the Palace were extremely extravagant, with twenty or thirty dishes served at the start of each meal, while macaroni, rice, and a few other items were brought out from a side table. The Chinese are experts in cooking, and the delicacies found at fancy Chinese meals are fit for a feast worthy of a king. Shark fins, deer sinews, bird tongues, rare fish, bird’s nest soup, fish brains, shrimp eggs, and many other unique dishes make up the daily menu. No one can prepare goose, duck, or any kind of game as perfectly as the Chinese. Their soups are unmatched in delicacy and flavor. At first, their breads and cakes may seem to be the least appetizing to outsiders; particularly their bread, which is steamed instead of baked, doesn’t look appealing. However, once you get past the raw-looking exterior with its five red spots on the top, it is actually very sweet and nutritious. It is made from gray flour, as the Chinese do not believe in bleaching it like we do. They also make delicious creams in terms of texture, and these, along with their sweets, are highly regarded by foreigners. 22

At the Palace the food is served in tall dishes of painted Chinese porcelain, and everything is placed upon the table at once—soups, roast, sweets, all except the rice and macaroni. These latter dishes the Chinese eat boiling hot, and they are kept on chafing-dishes until served. Each person has a bowl, a small saucer, and a pair of chop-sticks. A small square of very soft cloth is used as a napkin. There is never any salt upon the table. The small saucer at the side of each guest contains a very salty sauce; if extra salt is needed, this 23 sauce is used. The Chinese consider powdered salt too coarse for seasoning food after it is cooked!

At the Palace, food is served in tall dishes made of painted Chinese porcelain, and everything is put on the table at once—soups, roast, desserts, all except the rice and macaroni. These two dishes are served steaming hot and kept in chafing dishes until it's time to eat. Each person has a bowl, a small saucer, and a pair of chopsticks. A small square of very soft cloth serves as a napkin. There's never any salt on the table. The small saucer next to each guest holds a very salty sauce; if more salt is needed, this sauce is used. The Chinese think powdered salt is too coarse for seasoning food after it's cooked! 23

They rarely drink at meals, and when they do, only tiny cups, about the size of a liqueur-glass, of heated wine. This is poured out of silver teapots, and is kept hot by being placed in receptacles containing boiling water. Their wines are more like liqueurs than ours; they are generally distilled with flowers and herbs and have a delightful “bouquet.” Some of these wines have most poetic names, such as “Dew from the Early Morning Rose,” and “Drops from the Hands of Buddha.” The Chinese never drink cold water, nor do they take tea at meals. For me, being a foreigner, champagne was always provided, as well as claret or Burgundy. The Chinese do not drink coffee. After leaving the table, they take tea without milk or sugar.

They rarely drink during meals, and when they do, it's just tiny cups, about the size of a shot glass, filled with heated wine. This is served from silver teapots and kept warm by placing them in containers with boiling water. Their wines are more like liqueurs than ours; they're usually distilled with flowers and herbs and have a lovely aroma. Some of these wines have very poetic names, like “Dew from the Early Morning Rose” and “Drops from the Hands of Buddha.” The Chinese never drink cold water, nor do they have tea during meals. For me, as a foreigner, they always offered champagne, as well as claret or Burgundy. The Chinese don’t drink coffee. After finishing the meal, they enjoy tea without milk or sugar.

The middle of the day is set aside for the siesta, and during the heat of the summer, every one goes to her apartments for two hours after luncheon. As I found the Chinese bed-cushions too hard to rest well upon, I took to my pavilion a foreign, eiderdown cushion, which I used for several days, until one day, on going to my room, I found two lovely new cushions with pale-blue silk, removable slips. On touching them, I found them to be soft and deliciously cool and fragrant as well. They were made of tea-leaves and had been sent as a present from the Empress Dowager. I found them a great improvement over eiderdown or feather cushions, especially for summer use. Though I did not care for this long midday rest, I was forced to go to my room and remain there, as there was nothing else to do.

The middle of the day is reserved for a nap, and during the summer heat, everyone heads to their rooms for two hours after lunch. Since I found the Chinese bed cushions too hard to relax on, I brought a foreign eiderdown cushion to my pavilion, which I used for several days. Then one day, when I went to my room, I discovered two beautiful new cushions with pale-blue silk, removable covers. When I touched them, I found they were soft, delightfully cool, and fragrant as well. They were made of tea leaves and had been given to me as a gift from the Empress Dowager. I found them to be a significant upgrade over eiderdown or feather cushions, especially for summer. Even though I didn't enjoy this long midday break, I had no choice but to go to my room and stay there, as there was nothing else to do.

When Her Majesty awakes, the news flashes like an 24 electric spark through all the Precincts and over the whole inclosure, and every one is on the “qui vive” in a moment. The young Empress and the Princesses go up to Her Majesty’s Throne-room to be present at her “lever.” When her afternoon toilet is made, the Empress Dowager comes out of her private apartments into the Throne-room and generally partakes of some light refreshment, or drinks a cup of tea or some fruit juice.

When Her Majesty wakes up, the news spreads like an 24 electric shock throughout all the Precincts and across the entire enclosure, and everyone is on alert in an instant. The young Empress and the Princesses head to Her Majesty’s Throne-room to attend her “lever.” After her afternoon get-ready routine, the Empress Dowager comes out of her private rooms into the Throne-room and usually has a light snack, a cup of tea, or some fruit juice.

She gave me a short sitting after her nap this second day and then ordered the boats for a row on the lakes. Attended by the young Empress and Princesses, and with the usual train of attendants and eunuchs, we went out into the court of the Throne-room, passed through a small pavilion opening directly upon the beautiful white marble terrace, with its quaintly carved marble balustrade, which stretches all along the southern side of the lake. Her Majesty’s own barge lay at the foot of the marble steps and numbers of other barges and boats lay around, forming quite a little fleet. She descended the steps and entered the barge. The young Empress, Princesses, and Ladies followed. Her Majesty sat in the yellow, throne-like chair in the middle of the raised platform of the barge. The young Empress, Princesses, and Ladies took their places as decreed by centuries-old tradition. They sat upon cushions placed upon the carpeted floor of the raised platform of the barge.

She gave me a brief audience after her nap on this second day and then ordered the boats for a row on the lakes. Accompanied by the young Empress and Princesses, along with the usual group of attendants and eunuchs, we went out into the court of the Throne room, passed through a small pavilion that opened directly onto the beautiful white marble terrace, which has its intricately carved marble railing stretching all along the southern side of the lake. Her Majesty’s own barge was at the foot of the marble steps, and several other barges and boats were nearby, creating quite a little fleet. She descended the steps and got into the barge. The young Empress, Princesses, and Ladies followed. Her Majesty sat in the yellow, throne-like chair in the center of the raised platform of the barge. The young Empress, Princesses, and Ladies took their places as dictated by centuries-old tradition, sitting on cushions placed on the carpeted floor of the raised platform of the barge.

Boating on the Lake of the Summer Palace

THE EMPRESS AND LADIES OF THE COURT IN THE IMPERIAL BARGE

THE EMPRESS AND COURT LADIES IN THE IMPERIAL BARGE

On the Lake of the Summer Palace

At Summer Palace Lake

When I stepped on, Her Majesty motioned me to come near her and sit at her right. The young Empress was on her left. Several of the high eunuchs stood at the back of the Empress Dowager’s chair with her 25 extra wraps, bonbons, cigarettes, water-pipes, etc. There were two rowers on the barge who stood with their long oars to guide it, for it was attached by great yellow ropes to two boats, manned by twenty-four rowers each, and was towed along by them. Only the eunuchs of the highest rank, Her Majesty’s personal attendants, went on the barge with her, and the two boatmen simply guided it. All the Palace boatmen stand to their oars, for they cannot sit in the presence of Her Majesty, even though not upon the Imperial barge. And it is only on the barge that the Empress and Ladies sit in the presence of the Empress Dowager without being invited by her to do so.

When I stepped on board, Her Majesty signaled for me to come closer and sit at her right. The young Empress was seated on her left. Several high-ranking eunuchs stood behind the Empress Dowager’s chair, holding her extra wraps, sweets, cigarettes, water pipes, and so on. There were two rowers on the barge who stood with their long oars to steer it, as it was tied by large yellow ropes to two boats, each crewed by twenty-four rowers, which pulled it along. Only the highest-ranking eunuchs, who were Her Majesty’s personal attendants, were allowed on the barge with her, while the boatmen simply guided it. All the Palace boatmen stand at their oars because they cannot sit in the presence of Her Majesty, even if they are not on the Imperial barge. And it’s only on the barge that the Empress and Ladies are allowed to sit in the presence of the Empress Dowager without being invited to do so. 25

A number of flat boats followed the Imperial barge with the army of eunuchs that go to make up the train of Their Majesties when they move about the Palace or grounds. One boat carried portable stoves and all the necessary arrangements for making tea, as this is taken so frequently by Her Majesty and the Ladies, it may be called for at any time.

A series of flatboats trailed the Imperial barge along with the group of eunuchs that accompany Their Majesties during their movements around the Palace or grounds. One of the boats had portable stoves and all the essentials for making tea, which is consumed so often by Her Majesty and the Ladies that it can be requested at any moment.

We were rowed across the lake to one of the islands; and when we looked back at the Palaces, the memorial arches, the temple-crowned hills, the curious camel-back bridges, and the beautiful white marble terraces jutting out into the lake with its islands, the scene was indeed fairy-like. We were then rowed into a field of beautiful lotus flowers, and Her Majesty ordered some pulled by the eunuchs to be given to the Ladies. She seemed delighted at my sincere admiration of this beautiful water-plant, so dear to the Chinese. After an hour on the lake, we were rowed back to our starting-point and disembarked. This time the Princesses and 26 Ladies left the barge first and stood to receive the Empress Dowager when she landed. When she had dined she asked us to dine with the young Empress and Ladies at her table in her Throne-room, after which we made our adieus and returned to our own Palace, without the Precincts.

We were rowed across the lake to one of the islands, and when we looked back at the palaces, the memorial arches, the temple-topped hills, the unique camelback bridges, and the beautiful white marble terraces extending into the lake with its islands, the scene truly felt like a fairy tale. We were then taken into a field of stunning lotus flowers, and Her Majesty had some picked by the eunuchs to be given to the ladies. She seemed pleased by my genuine admiration for this lovely water plant, which is so cherished in China. After an hour on the lake, we were rowed back to where we started and disembarked. This time, the princesses and 26 ladies left the barge first and stood to welcome the Empress Dowager when she landed. After she had dinner, she invited us to dine with the young Empress and ladies at her table in her throne room, and afterward we said our goodbyes and returned to our own palace, outside the precincts.

CHAPTER III THE PALACE OF THE EMPEROR’S FATHER
(PRINCE CH’UN, THE SEVENTH PRINCE)

The Palace of the Emperor’s Father, which the Empress Dowager had set aside for me to live in while I was at work on her portrait, was a splendid demesne, with a noble park and spacious buildings. It had been much injured by the foreign troops in 1900 and had been unoccupied since, until Her Majesty decided it would be a suitable dwelling-place for her “Portrait Painter.” She had it hastily restored and refurnished for our occupation, but many of the pavilions and summer-houses in the grounds were in ruins, and the stables but partly rebuilt. Except the grounds immediately surrounding the buildings in which the Yu-Kengs and I lived, which were well kept and garnished, the greater part of the extensive park was in a fascinating state of natural wildness. The Palace, like all others in China, consisted of a network of verandahed pavilions built around spacious courts. There was a small Theater with the Prince’s loge and stalls for his guests, and numerous tea and summer houses were scattered over different parts of the grounds.

The Palace of the Emperor’s Father, which the Empress Dowager had reserved for me while I worked on her portrait, was an impressive estate with a grand park and large buildings. It had been significantly damaged by foreign troops in 1900 and had been vacant since then, until Her Majesty deemed it appropriate as a home for her “Portrait Painter.” She had it quickly restored and furnished for our use, but many of the pavilions and gazebos in the grounds were in ruins, and the stables were only partially rebuilt. Except for the areas immediately around the buildings where the Yu-Kengs and I lived, which were well maintained and decorated, the majority of the expansive park remained in an intriguing state of natural wildness. The Palace, like all others in China, featured a network of covered pavilions built around spacious courtyards. There was a small theater with the Prince’s box and seating for his guests, and several tea and summer houses were spread across different parts of the grounds.

I selected, as my abiding-place, a charming group 28 of buildings in a walled-in garden, fronting on a lotus-covered lake, with a winding stream at the back, spanned by a picturesque bridge. The principal pavilion of this group had a lofty central hall, out of which opened, on one side, bedrooms and dressing-rooms, and on the other dining-room and dependencies. Great doors in the center of the hall, which I had decided to use as my living-room, opened on a wide verandah which ran the whole length of the building. Marble steps led from this into a court filled with flowering shrubs. Two sides of the charming court had smaller pavilions similar to the central hall, and opposite this latter was a quaint stone wall, the upper part of tiled lattice-work, with curiously shaped openings at irregular intervals. In the center of this wall, massive wooden doors opened out on a beautiful terrace, shaded by fine old elms, over the lake. It was a charming dwelling-place, and this group of buildings soon came to be known as the “Ker-Gunia Fu,” “Ker-Gunia” being “Miss Carl” rendered into Chinese, and “Fu” meaning “Palace,” for the Chinese are very fond of nicknames. I learned later that these pavilions had been the dwelling-place of the Seventh Prince’s son, the present Emperor Kwang-Hsu, after he had been chosen as Heir to the Throne and until he went to live regularly at the Imperial Palace.

I chose a beautiful group of buildings in a walled garden, overlooking a lake covered in lotus flowers, with a winding stream at the back that was crossed by a charming bridge. The main pavilion had a tall central hall, with bedrooms and dressing rooms on one side, and a dining room and other rooms on the other. Big doors in the center of the hall, which I decided to use as my living room, opened onto a wide verandah that extended the entire length of the building. Marble steps led from the verandah into a courtyard filled with flowering shrubs. Two sides of the lovely courtyard had smaller pavilions like the central hall, and facing it was a quaint stone wall, with the upper part made of tiled lattice work and oddly shaped openings at irregular intervals. In the center of this wall, large wooden doors opened up to a beautiful terrace shaded by old elm trees, overlooking the lake. It was a delightful place to live, and this group of buildings soon became known as the “Ker-Gunia Fu,” with “Ker-Gunia” meaning “Miss Carl” translated into Chinese, and “Fu” meaning “Palace,” as the Chinese are quite fond of nicknames. I later learned that these pavilions had been home to the Seventh Prince’s son, the current Emperor Kwang-Hsu, after he was selected as Heir to the Throne and before he moved to the Imperial Palace.

As Her Majesty gave me my morning sittings after the Audience was finished (which lasted from eight A.M. to ten or eleven), I had plenty of time, after my cup of tea, to explore the grounds of our Palace, and I discovered new beauties each day. The Park was 29 inclosed by high walls, for the Chinese are jealous of their privacy. Parts of the grounds were gently undulating, and all the eminences, where views could be had, were surmounted by charming summer-houses and belvederes. In one of these, where I loved to go in the early morning to refresh myself by the contemplation of the calm and peaceful lake beneath, and drink in the faint perfume of the stately lotus flowers, which grew in rich profusion on its bosom, I found an inscription on a large flat stone at the left of the entrance. I had seen enough of Chinese characters to know the inscription looked like a “poem.” The Chinese poem is rarely more than a phrase: the expression, in elegant and concise form, of some dainty fancy, some bit of philosophy, and is more properly a “verse” than a poem.

As Her Majesty held my morning sessions after the Audience wrapped up (which lasted from eight A.M. to ten or eleven), I had plenty of time, after my cup of tea, to explore the grounds of our Palace, and I discovered new beauties every day. The Park was 29 enclosed by tall walls, as the Chinese value their privacy. Parts of the grounds were gently rolling, and all the high points with views had lovely summer houses and lookout points. In one of these, where I liked to go in the early morning to soak in the serenity of the calm and peaceful lake below, and enjoy the subtle fragrance of the elegant lotus flowers that grew abundantly on its surface, I found an inscription on a large flat stone to the left of the entrance. I had seen enough Chinese characters to recognize that the inscription resembled a “poem.” Chinese poetry is rarely more than a phrase: it elegantly and concisely expresses a delicate idea or a piece of philosophy, and is more accurately described as a “verse” than a poem.

I found, later, the inscription on the stone at the entrance of the summer-house was really a “poem,” and had been written by no less a personage than the Seventh Prince himself! This had been his favorite place for rest and contemplation, and one day, as he reclined upon a cushion at the entrance, he had written this poem on the flat stone which lay conveniently near. The Chinese write with a brush well charged with liquid India ink, and their writing accommodates itself to almost any surface. Their characters, one for each word, take up less space than our combination of letters, and are infinitely more picturesque! Chinese gentlemen, or some attendant, generally carry about with them tablets of writing-ink and a brush, and they thus have the means at hand for jotting down a thought as it comes to them.

I later discovered that the inscription on the stone at the entrance of the summer house was actually a "poem," written by none other than the Seventh Prince himself! This had been his favorite spot for relaxation and reflection, and one day, while lounging on a cushion at the entrance, he wrote this poem on the flat stone that was conveniently nearby. The Chinese use a brush filled with liquid India ink for writing, which can adapt to almost any surface. Their characters, one for each word, take up less space than our letters and are much more visually appealing! Chinese gentlemen, or an attendant, usually carry tablets of writing ink and a brush, giving them the ability to jot down their thoughts whenever inspiration strikes.

This little poem had been written with a brush, and some of the Prince’s followers had afterward cut the characters in the stone, so that it became a permanent record of a fleeting thought. It had evidently been inspired by the lotus flowers growing beneath; so gloriously beautiful to-day, and to-morrow shorn of their splendor. It was a plaint on the transience of worldly glory—

This little poem was written with a brush, and some of the Prince’s followers later carved the characters into the stone, making it a lasting reminder of a fleeting thought. It was clearly inspired by the lotus flowers growing below; so stunningly beautiful today, and tomorrow stripped of their glory. It was a lament on the transience of worldly glory—

... Which to-day, like the lotus fair,
Lifts its head in pride;
But to-morrow lies low,
Bathed in the stagnant waters of oblivion.

One day I came upon a number of small tombstones, in a beautiful shady corner, near the stables. I learned that these marked the last resting-places of the Prince’s favorite dogs and horses. Each stone had an inscription with the name, and extolled the virtues of the favorite, whose bones lay beneath it. The Prince was a great lover of animals, and is said to have had the best kennels and stables of any of the Imperial Princes.

One day, I stumbled upon a bunch of small tombstones in a lovely shady spot near the stables. I found out that these marked the final resting places of the Prince’s beloved dogs and horses. Each stone had an inscription with the name and celebrated the qualities of the pet whose remains were buried beneath it. The Prince was a huge animal lover and was known to have the best kennels and stables of all the Imperial Princes.

In my morning rambles, I also often came upon stones engraved with some character or a phrase from the classics. The ideographic Chinese characters, always picturesque, are doubly so when deeply engraved, or standing out in high relief on some rugged stone in a charming spot in the landscape. The picturesque form of the characters is sometimes heightened by being painted in vermilion or gilded; and the glowing color makes a delightful contrast with the cool gray of the 31 stone. Even though I could not decipher the characters, nor read the phrases, I loved to come upon them in my morning walks. How much more interesting they must have been to the scholarly Chinese who understood them! How fine, when out for rest and contemplation, to come upon some thought of their great Sages cut in the living rock, or to see some character meaning “Peace” or “Prosperity” standing out, in bold relief or glowing color, from some shady nook, as if to bless him!

During my morning walks, I often stumbled upon stones carved with some characters or phrases from classic texts. The Chinese characters, always beautiful, are even more striking when deeply engraved or raised on a rugged stone in a lovely spot in the landscape. Sometimes, the artistic form of the characters is enhanced by being painted in bright red or gold; the vibrant colors create a nice contrast with the cool gray of the 31 stone. Even though I couldn't read the characters or phrases, I enjoyed discovering them on my morning strolls. They must have been even more fascinating to the educated Chinese who could understand them! How wonderful it must be, while seeking peace and reflection, to find a thought from their great sages carved into the living rock, or to see a character meaning “Peace” or “Prosperity” standing out in bold relief or vibrant color from a shady spot, as if to offer a blessing!

From another of the summer-houses in the Park I could see the stone-paved highway leading from the Capital to the Summer Palace. During Their Majesties’ residence at the Summer Palace, this is a busy thoroughfare. When I did not care for peaceful contemplation or quiet rambles over the grounds, I would go to this summer-house, whence I could see the carts and “chairs” of the officials, with their outriders, going to and from the Palace; messengers galloping past, bearing despatches; all sorts of itinerant venders, with their wares; heavily laden wagons, with small yellow banners flying, which showed they carried supplies to the Palace. Sometimes a group of horsemen would dash gaily past, the retainers of some splendidly attired young Prince, who rode in their midst on a red-saddled, handsomely caparisoned horse with silver trappings. Anon, the cumbersome, red, fringe-bedecked cart of some Princess, preceded and followed by from fifteen to thirty outriders, according to her rank in the Princely hierarchy, the black carts of her women bringing up the rear.

From another summer house in the park, I could see the stone-paved road leading from the Capital to the Summer Palace. While their Majesties were at the Summer Palace, this is a busy route. When I wasn’t in the mood for peaceful contemplation or quiet walks around the grounds, I would go to this summer house, where I could watch the carts and “chairs” of the officials, along with their outriders, coming to and from the Palace; messengers riding by at a gallop, carrying dispatches; all kinds of street vendors with their goods; heavily loaded wagons with small yellow banners flying, indicating they were delivering supplies to the Palace. Sometimes, a group of horsemen would rush by, the attendants of some elegantly dressed young Prince, who rode among them on a beautifully adorned horse with a red saddle and silver trappings. Occasionally, the bulky, red, fringe-decorated cart of a Princess would pass, preceded and followed by fifteen to thirty outriders, depending on her status in the royal hierarchy, with the black carts of her attendants trailing behind.

One can tell the rank of the Chinese from the outsides 32 of their chairs or carts. Only a reigning Emperor and Empress can go abroad in yellow chairs. The Emperor’s secondary wives ride in orange-colored chairs. The relicts of an Emperor, first or secondary, go in yellow or orange-colored carts. Princesses go abroad in red carts. Mandarins of the first and second degrees ride in green chairs; those of the third and fourth in blue chairs; and there is still another shape and style of chair for the ordinary individual, who may prefer a chair to a cart. The rank and file go in carts. These carts, peculiar to Peking, curious two-wheeled vehicles with heavy, iron-studded wheels, are uniformly covered in blue cloth. The wealth and standing of their occupants are discernible from the quality of the cloth and its trimmings, and the richness of the harness and trappings of the mule which is always used in the Peking carts. The mule in North China is a magnificent animal, much finer than the Chinese horse, which is only a pony.

You can tell a Chinese person's rank by the appearance of their chairs or carts. 32 Only a reigning Emperor and Empress can travel in yellow chairs. The Emperor's secondary wives ride in orange chairs. The widows of an Emperor, whether first or secondary, use yellow or orange carts. Princesses travel in red carts. Mandarins of the first and second degrees ride in green chairs; those of the third and fourth in blue chairs; and there’s also another type of chair for ordinary people who might prefer a chair over a cart. The common folks go in carts. These carts, unique to Beijing, are two-wheeled vehicles with heavy, iron-studded wheels and are always covered in blue cloth. You can tell the wealth and status of the occupants by the quality of the cloth and its trimmings, as well as the luxuriousness of the harness and decorations of the mule, which is always used for these carts in Beijing. The mule in northern China is an impressive animal, much better than the Chinese horse, which is just a pony.

The Seventh Prince (Prince Ch’un) must have been a most interesting personality. He was brother to the Emperor Hsien-Feng, the husband of the present Empress Dowager; and his wife, the mother of the present Emperor, was Her Majesty’s sister. This Prince was a valued friend of the two Empresses, the present Empress Dowager and She of the Eastern Palace, while they were Co-Regents during the minority of the late and a part of that of the present Emperor, and he remained, up to the time of his death, one of the most trusted advisers of the Regency. He was recognized by foreigners, as well as by the Chinese, to be an enlightened Prince as well as a man of fine 33 character. The esteem in which he was held may have had something to do with the choice of his second son as the Successor of the late Emperor Tung-Chih, who died childless. The Chinese Emperors and their Council may choose the Successor to the Throne. If there be but one son, he is chosen as the next Heir; if there be a number, a selection may be made from them of the one seeming to be most suited for the exalted position. If there be no sons, the Successor is chosen from the nephews without reference to their age or to their being the sons of an elder or younger brother. The present Emperor’s Father, Prince Ch’un, was the seventh brother of the Emperor Hsien-Feng, hence his Chinese name of “Seventh Prince.”

The Seventh Prince (Prince Ch’un) must have been a truly fascinating person. He was the brother of Emperor Hsien-Feng, the husband of the current Empress Dowager; and his wife, the mother of the current Emperor, was the sister of Her Majesty. This Prince was a valued friend of both Empresses, the present Empress Dowager and the one from the Eastern Palace, while they served as Co-Regents during the late Emperor's minority and part of the current Emperor's. He remained, until his death, one of the most trusted advisers of the Regency. Both foreigners and Chinese recognized him as an enlightened Prince and a man of great character. The high regard in which he was held may have influenced the choice of his second son as the successor to the late Emperor Tung-Chih, who died without children. The Chinese Emperors and their Council have the authority to choose the Successor to the Throne. If there is only one son, he automatically becomes the next Heir; if there are multiple sons, the one deemed most suitable for the lofty position is selected. If there are no sons, the Successor is chosen from the nephews, regardless of their age or whether they are the sons of an older or younger brother. The current Emperor’s father, Prince Ch’un, was the seventh brother of Emperor Hsien-Feng, which is why he is called the "Seventh Prince." 33

CHAPTER IV HER MAJESTY’S THRONE ROOM—SOME PERSONAL TRAITS

We arrived at the Palace in good time the next morning, as Her Majesty and suite were coming out of the Great Audience Hall. She greeted us with a charming smile and made her usual inquiry for my health. We joined her suite and went along to the Throne-room where the portrait had been begun. This Throne-room is a very spacious and lofty hall; one side of the great room is almost entirely of glass, with only the wooden columns that support the roof between the windows—the lower half of plate-glass, the upper of lattice-work with Corean paper as shades. In the center of this side of windows is a huge plate-glass door, reaching from ceiling to floor. The other three sides of the hall, which separate it from the apartments at the side and back, are of the same beautiful, open woodwork carving I have mentioned as serving as partitions in my pavilion. Those in Her Majesty’s Throne-room were, however, of greater delicacy of workmanship and were more beautiful as to the painted panels. The poems, written on white silk, and alternating with the painted panels, were from Her Majesty’s favorite authors, original poems 35 written by an Emperor or Empress, or laudatory verses dedicated to Her Majesty. There were satin portières at the doorways, and blue silk curtains over the plate-glass windows. Blue, being the Empress Dowager’s favorite color, is used for all the hangings in the Palaces which are not intended for official purposes; where yellow is the color.

We arrived at the Palace on time the next morning, just as Her Majesty and her entourage were coming out of the Great Audience Hall. She greeted us with a lovely smile and asked how I was doing. We joined her group and headed to the Throne-room, where the portrait had been started. This Throne-room is a very spacious and tall hall; one side of the large room is almost completely made of glass, with only the wooden columns that support the roof between the windows—the lower half of plate glass and the upper half of lattice-work with Korean paper as shades. In the center of this side of windows is a huge plate-glass door that stretches from floor to ceiling. The other three sides of the hall, which separate it from the rooms on the side and back, are made of the same beautiful, open woodwork carving that I mentioned as partitions in my pavilion. However, the ones in Her Majesty’s Throne-room were made with finer craftsmanship and had more beautiful painted panels. The poems, written on white silk and alternating with the painted panels, were by Her Majesty’s favorite authors—original poems written by an Emperor or Empress, or praise verses dedicated to Her Majesty. There were satin curtains at the doorways and blue silk drapes over the plate-glass windows. Blue, being the Empress Dowager’s favorite color, is used for all the hangings in the Palaces that aren’t for official purposes, while yellow is used for the official ones. 35

On the right of the Throne-room is a small chapel with an altar, over which presides a figure of the contemplative Buddha seated on the lotus. This altar was always sweet with offerings of fresh flowers and fruit. In front of the figure of Buddha stood the incense-burner, with perfumes constantly burning. On the left of the Throne-room are Her Majesty’s sleeping apartments, and behind the open-work partition at the back of the hall is a large ante-chamber where the attendants and Ladies await their turn to make their entrance into the Throne-room. In the rear of the hall is a magnificent five-leaved screen of teakwood, inlaid with lapis lazuli, chalcedony, and many other semi-precious stones. In front of this screen, on a dais, stood an immense, couch-like throne, with a large footstool. These couch-like thrones, where Their Celestial Majesties may recline when holding Audiences, are not at all favored by the Empress Dowager, who always sits extremely erect, without leaning upon a cushion or the back of the throne. Except in the Great Audience Hall, where she uses the traditional throne of state of the Dynasty, she prefers a much lighter and quite modern one, which she has introduced into the Palaces. The thrones favored by Her Majesty are of open carved teakwood, circular 36 in form, with cushions of Imperial yellow. One of these stood in the front part of this hall, on which she sat for the portrait.

To the right of the Throne room is a small chapel with an altar featuring a figure of the contemplative Buddha seated on a lotus. This altar is always fragrant with offerings of fresh flowers and fruit. In front of the Buddha figure stands an incense burner, with perfumes burning continuously. To the left of the Throne room are Her Majesty’s sleeping quarters, and behind the open partition at the back of the hall is a large antechamber where the attendants and ladies wait for their turn to enter the Throne room. At the back of the hall is an impressive five-leaf screen made of teakwood, inlaid with lapis lazuli, chalcedony, and various other semi-precious stones. In front of this screen, on a dais, sits a large, couch-like throne with a big footstool. These couch-like thrones, used by Their Celestial Majesties during audiences, are not favored by the Empress Dowager, who always sits very upright without leaning on a cushion or the throne's back. Except in the Great Audience Hall, where she uses the traditional throne of the Dynasty, she prefers a much lighter and more modern one that she has introduced into the Palaces. The thrones preferred by Her Majesty are made of open carved teakwood, circular in shape, with cushions of imperial yellow. One of these was placed at the front of this hall, where she sat for the portrait. 36

The great throne, which I have described above, was hence relegated to the back of the Throne-room and kept for the sake of tradition, but never used by Her Majesty. On either side of it stood two immense, processional fans of peafowl feathers, with ebony handles placed in magnificent cloisonné supports. Superb cloisonné vases stood at either side of these ceremonial fans; and huge bowls of rare old porcelain held pyramids of fruits—apples, sweet-smelling quince, and the highly perfumed “Buddha’s hand.”

The grand throne I mentioned earlier was moved to the back of the Throne room and kept for tradition's sake, but it was never used by Her Majesty. On each side were two enormous fans made from peafowl feathers, with ebony handles set in beautiful cloisonné stands. Elegant cloisonné vases were positioned next to these ceremonial fans, and large bowls of fine old porcelain held pyramids of fruit—apples, fragrant quince, and the highly scented “Buddha’s hand.”

And there were flowers everywhere! It was the season of the year when bloomed a sort of orchid, of delicious fragrance, of which Her Majesty is very fond. These were growing in rare porcelain jardinières, placed at intervals around the hall. There were also vases of lotus flowers and bowls of lilies. The combined odors of all these fruits and flowers gave a subtle, composite perfume quite indescribable and delightful, but not at all overpowering, for the Empress Dowager is so fond of fresh air that there are always windows open in the Palace, even in the coldest weather.

And there were flowers everywhere! It was the time of year when a type of orchid that smelled amazing was in bloom, and Her Majesty loves them. They were growing in beautiful porcelain planters, set around the hall. There were also vases with lotus flowers and bowls filled with lilies. The blend of scents from all these fruits and flowers created a subtle, unique fragrance that was delightful but not overwhelming, because the Empress Dowager loves fresh air so much that the windows in the Palace are always open, even when it's really cold outside.

Aside from the fruits and flowers, clocks were the dominant feature of this Throne-room, as well as of every other one I ever went into in any of the Chinese Palaces. The love of the Chinese for clocks and timepieces is well known, and there are thousands in each of the Palaces I visited. In this Throne-room there were, as I have said before, eighty-five: 37 magnificent jeweled and gold clocks, and specimens of all the varieties that were ever made; some with chimes; some with crowing cocks and singing-birds; some with running water; some with musical-box attachments, and others with processions of figures that came out at every hour and moved around the dial; some rare works of art and some commonplace examples of the clockmaker’s trade. There are many foreign ornaments in the Palace, but, aside from the clocks and watches, Her Majesty the Empress Dowager does not seem to care much for European “objets de virtu.” Unfortunately, what they have at the Palaces, aside from a few presents from European sovereigns, are generally very poor specimens of European art, and compare but lamentably with the beautiful Chinese curios. They are principally cheap modern stuff, bought by the Chinese nobles when abroad and sent as presents to Their Majesties. These presents, when they are accepted, are placed in apartments of the Palace not in general use.

Aside from the fruits and flowers, clocks were the main feature of this Throne Room, just like in every other one I visited in any of the Chinese Palaces. The Chinese love for clocks and timepieces is well known, and there are thousands in each of the Palaces I explored. In this Throne Room, there were, as I mentioned before, eighty-five: 37 magnificent jeweled and gold clocks, along with examples of every type ever made; some with chimes, some with crowing roosters and singing birds, some with running water, some with musical-box attachments, and others featuring processions of figures that emerged at each hour and moved around the dial; some were rare works of art, while others were simple examples of the clockmaker’s craft. There are many foreign ornaments in the Palace, but besides the clocks and watches, Her Majesty the Empress Dowager doesn’t seem to have much interest in European “objets de virtu.” Unfortunately, what they have in the Palaces, apart from a few gifts from European monarchs, are generally quite poor examples of European art and sadly fall short compared to the beautiful Chinese curios. They mainly consist of cheap modern items purchased by the Chinese nobles during their travels and sent as gifts to Their Majesties. These gifts, when accepted, are placed in areas of the Palace that aren't usually used.

When Her Majesty had her official garments removed (she always changed her dress after the morning Audience), and when the portrait had been placed upon the easel, she came over to look at it. After studying it for some time, she concluded that the nail-protectors on both hands were not artistic, and that she would have the gold ones (set with pearls and rubies) taken off, and show the uncovered nails on the right hand. I was delighted at this decision, for the nail-protectors destroyed the symmetry of the hand and hid the beautiful tips of her fingers. I had, of course, not presumed to make any suggestions as to 38 her costume or ornaments. As the nail-shields are characteristic of the high-class Chinese ladies, it was well to have them on one hand.

When Her Majesty had her official clothes removed (she always changed after the morning audience), and once the portrait was set up on the easel, she came over to take a look at it. After examining it for a while, she decided that the nail protectors on both hands weren't artistic, and that she would have the gold ones (adorned with pearls and rubies) taken off, revealing the bare nails on her right hand. I was thrilled with this decision since the nail protectors messed up the hand's symmetry and covered the beautiful tips of her fingers. I, of course, hadn't dared to suggest anything about 38 her outfit or accessories. Since the nail shields are typical for high-class Chinese ladies, it was fine to have them on one hand.

After this change had been decided upon, she went over to a great vase, standing near, and took from it a lotus flower, held it up, in a charmingly graceful way, and asked me if that would not be pretty in the portrait, adding that the lotus was one of her attributes. As the color did not harmonize with the general scheme, I did not care for this suggestion, but temporized by saying “I was not ready to put it in then.” After a little more than an hour’s work, with the usual interruptions, she decided that enough had been done for that morning. When I suggested that I might work even after Her Majesty was tired, she said “No,” that if she were tired sitting still, I could not fail to be more so doing the work and standing as I did. She said there was no hurry, that I had plenty of time to finish the picture, and must not run the risk of making myself ill.

After they made that decision, she walked over to a big vase nearby and picked a lotus flower. She held it up gracefully and asked me if it would look nice in the portrait, mentioning that the lotus was one of her symbols. Since the color didn’t match the overall look, I didn’t like the idea but postponed the decision by saying, “I’m not ready to add it yet.” After about an hour of work, with the usual interruptions, she decided that we had done enough for the morning. When I suggested that I could keep working even after she got tired, she said, “No.” If she felt tired just sitting still, I would surely be more exhausted standing and working as I was. She insisted there was no rush, that I had plenty of time to finish the painting, and that I shouldn’t risk getting sick.

After a short sitting in the afternoon Her Majesty ordered the boats, and we went out to the marble terrace, beneath which lay moored the Palace fleet, manned by blue-gowned oarsmen. We again took the Imperial barge, the Empress Dowager in the center, on her yellow chair, the young Empress and Princesses sitting around, Turkish fashion, on cushions. The barge, drawn along by the two great boats, glided as gently as a swan over the still waters of the lake. The air was soft and balmy. Two of the eunuchs were ordered to sing, and the minor chords of a curious air mingled their rhythm with the soft swish of the water. 39 Beyond us lay the hills, the beautiful Western Hills, unchanging in form, but ever varying in color—sometimes blurred and gray, or a soft, warm violet; again a clear, deep blue, as if hewn out of lapis lazuli, and now and then, as a cloud passed over the sun, dark and threatening almost. I drank in deep breaths of delight!

After a short break in the afternoon, Her Majesty ordered the boats, and we headed out to the marble terrace, where the Palace fleet was docked, rowed by oarsmen in blue robes. We took the Imperial barge again, with the Empress Dowager sitting in the center on her yellow chair, while the young Empress and the Princesses sat around her, Turkish style, on cushions. The barge, pulled along by two larger boats, glided smoothly over the calm waters of the lake like a swan. The air was soft and pleasant. Two eunuchs were called to sing, and the soft notes of a unique melody blended with the gentle sound of the water. 39 In the distance were the hills, the stunning Western Hills, timeless in shape yet always changing in color—sometimes blurry and gray, or a soft, warm violet; at other times, a clear, deep blue, as if carved from lapis lazuli, and occasionally, when a cloud passed over the sun, they appeared dark and foreboding. I breathed in deeply, overwhelmed with joy!

The quaint picturesqueness of the marble-terraced banks, the summer-houses, the green and yellow-tiled roofs, the vermilion walls and lacquered columns of the buildings, the curious fleet silently moving along, the eunuchs singing, the Empress Dowager sitting in state surrounded by her Ladies, the camel-back bridges—everything was strange, and, stranger still, I formed a part of this curious pageant! Only the beautiful hills beyond seemed familiar.

The charming views of the marble terraces by the river, the summer houses, the green and yellow tiled roofs, the bright red walls and shiny columns of the buildings, the odd boats quietly gliding by, the eunuchs singing, the Empress Dowager seated grandly surrounded by her ladies, the camel-back bridges—everything was unusual, and even more surprisingly, I was part of this strange spectacle! Only the beautiful hills in the background felt familiar.

After drifting about for some time, we landed and went into the orchards and among the apple trees. The apple is a favorite fruit of the Chinese, and esteemed as much for its fragrance as its taste. It is emblematic of Peace and Prosperity, and is always placed among the offerings to Buddha, hence has also a sacred quality; but, though beautiful in form and color, the Chinese apple has very little taste, and the least savor of any of their fruits.

After floating around for a while, we finally landed and wandered into the orchards and under the apple trees. The apple is a popular fruit in China, valued as much for its smell as for its flavor. It's a symbol of Peace and Prosperity, and is always included in offerings to Buddha, giving it a sacred quality; however, despite its beautiful shape and color, the Chinese apple has very little flavor, being the least tasty of all their fruits.

Her Majesty walked about among the trees and ordered several apples gathered, which she ate with greater relish than I could, for she graciously offered me one, and then told me to pull some for myself. A eunuch brought a basket and took them as I gathered them, and she told me to have them taken to my own apartments.

Her Majesty walked among the trees and had several apples picked, which she enjoyed more than I could, because she kindly offered me one and then told me to pick some for myself. A eunuch brought a basket and collected them as I picked, and she instructed me to have them taken to my own rooms.

From the orchard she continued her walk to the 40 flower gardens, where she picked some small blooms and placed them behind her ears, Spanish fashion, telling the Ladies to do likewise, and herself choosing some for me and placing them over my ears. I knew these little marks of favor she showed me were not due so much to regard for me as to her desire to make the “stranger” feel at home. She hoped by showing me these special favors to insure a similar treatment of me by the Ladies and eunuchs. I have already alluded to Her Majesty’s love of flowers. This was the one of her characteristics which seemed most incompatible with the idea I had formed of her from what I had heard, and her love of flowers and all nature caused me first to change that idea. It seemed to me no one could love flowers and nature as she did and be the woman she had been painted.

From the orchard, she continued her walk to the 40 flower gardens, where she picked some small blooms and tucked them behind her ears, in the Spanish style, telling the Ladies to do the same. She also chose some for me and placed them over my ears. I realized that these little gestures she showed me weren’t just because she liked me, but because she wanted to make the “stranger” feel welcome. By giving me these special attentions, she hoped the Ladies and eunuchs would treat me similarly. I’ve already mentioned Her Majesty’s love for flowers. This was one of her traits that seemed most at odds with the idea I had formed about her based on what I had heard, and her passion for flowers and nature made me reconsider that perception. It seemed to me that no one could love flowers and nature as much as she did and still be the woman she had been described as.

She had flowers always about her. Her private apartments, her Throne-rooms, her loge at the Theater, even the Great Audience Hall where she only went to transact affairs of state and hold official Audiences, all were decorated with a profusion of flowers, cut and growing—never, though, of but one kind at a time. She wears natural flowers in her coiffure always, winter and summer, and however careworn or harassed she might be, she seemed to find solace in flowers! She would hold a flower to her face, drink in its fragrance and caress it as if it were a sentient thing. She would go herself among the flowers that filled her rooms, and place, with lingering touch, some fair bloom in a better light or turn a jardinière so that the growing plant might have a more favorable position.

She always surrounded herself with flowers. Her private spaces, her throne room, her box at the theater, and even the Great Audience Hall—where she only went to handle state matters and hold official meetings—were all filled with an abundance of flowers, both cut and potted. However, she only ever had one type of flower at a time. She wore fresh blooms in her hair all year round, regardless of how tired or stressed she looked; she seemed to find comfort in flowers! She would hold a flower to her face, inhale its fragrance, and pet it as if it were alive. She would walk among the flowers in her rooms, gently adjusting a pretty blossom to catch better light or turning a planter so the growing plant could thrive in a more optimal spot.

PRINCESSES OF THE COURT

Court Princesses

THE PRINCESS IMPERIAL, FIRST LADY OF THE COURT
A PRINCESS IN WINTER COSTUME — A PRINCESS IN SUMMER COSTUME

THE PRINCESS IMPERIAL, FIRST LADY OF THE COURT
A PRINCESS IN WINTER OUTFIT — A PRINCESS IN SUMMER OUTFIT

41 The Chinese do not place certain cut flowers in water, but keep them dry in bowls or vases, to get their full fragrance. The Empress Dowager had some quaint conceits about the arrangements of these. She would have the corollas of the lily bloom or the fragrant jasmine placed in shallow bowls in curious, star-like designs, beautiful to look at, as well as most fragrant.

41 The Chinese don't put certain cut flowers in water; instead, they keep them dry in bowls or vases to preserve their full fragrance. The Empress Dowager had some unique ideas about how to arrange them. She would have the lily blooms or fragrant jasmine arranged in shallow bowls in interesting, star-like patterns that were not only beautiful to look at but also very aromatic.

Her passion for flowers being generally known among the courtiers, Princes, and high officials, they send daily offerings to the Palace of all that is rare and choice in the way of plants and flowers, for they know this is one present Her Majesty will always accept and appreciate.

Her love for flowers is well-known among the courtiers, princes, and high officials, so they send daily gifts to the Palace of all the rare and exquisite plants and flowers they can find, knowing this is one gift Her Majesty will always accept and appreciate.

There are some quaint customs in the Palace, as to flowers and fruits that grow within the Precincts. Though the Princesses and Ladies have the freedom of the gardens and may pull as many flowers and cull as many fruits as they wish, it is not etiquette for them to gather the smallest flower or to touch a fruit when in the presence of the Empress Dowager, unless they are especially told to do so. When Her Majesty tells them to pull a flower or fruit, the permission is gratefully accepted and that special flower or fruit religiously kept. The first fruits of every tree and vegetable, the first flowers of every plant and growing shrub in the Palace grounds, are considered sacred to Their Majesties, and no Princess, attendant, or eunuch would touch a flower or fruit until the Empress Dowager had been presented with the first of them. All these, apparently trivial, marks of respect to the Sacred Persons of Their Majesties were religiously observed!

There are some charming traditions in the Palace regarding the flowers and fruits that grow within the grounds. Although the Princesses and Ladies have access to the gardens and can pick as many flowers and gather as much fruit as they want, it's not proper etiquette for them to collect the smallest flower or touch a fruit when the Empress Dowager is present, unless they are specifically told to do so. When Her Majesty requests that they pick a flower or fruit, the permission is graciously accepted, and that particular flower or fruit is kept with care. The first fruits of every tree and vegetable, as well as the first flowers of every plant and shrub in the Palace grounds, are considered sacred to Their Majesties, and no Princess, attendant, or eunuch would touch any flower or fruit until the Empress Dowager has been given the first of them. All these seemingly minor gestures of respect towards Their Majesties were strictly followed!

CHAPTER V THE YOUNG EMPRESS AND COURT LADIES

The young Empress, the first Lady of the Court after Her Majesty the Empress Dowager, was, to me, a charming character. She is the daughter of the Duke Chow, General of one of the Manchu Banner Corps and a brother of the reigning Empress Dowager. She is thus a first cousin of the Emperor, and is his senior by three years. Her mother, a lady of high birth, ancient lineage, and great distinction, brought her up with much care. She also had the advantage of being a great deal at the Court with her august Aunt, and is highly accomplished, according to Chinese standards. She was affianced at an early age to the Emperor, but, as the custom is, their marriage did not take place for several years later. It was celebrated with great pomp at the Winter Palace in February, 1889, the week before the young Emperor himself took in hand the reins of Government, held, up to that time, by the Empress Dowager, and became Emperor in reality.

The young Empress, the highest-ranking lady at Court after Her Majesty the Empress Dowager, was, to me, a delightful person. She is the daughter of Duke Chow, the General of one of the Manchu Banner Corps and a brother of the reigning Empress Dowager. This makes her a first cousin to the Emperor, and she is three years older than him. Her mother, a woman of noble birth, ancient lineage, and great distinction, raised her with great care. She also had the benefit of spending a lot of time at Court with her esteemed Aunt and is highly accomplished by Chinese standards. She was betrothed at a young age to the Emperor, but, as is customary, their marriage didn't happen until several years later. It took place with great fanfare at the Winter Palace in February 1889, just a week before the young Emperor took control of the Government, which had been held up to that point by the Empress Dowager, and became the Emperor in practice.

The young Empress has the erect carriage and light, swift walk of Her Majesty the Empress Dowager. She is small, not quite five feet tall, with exquisitely dainty hands and feet, of most patrician type. She 43 has a narrow, high-bred face, with a thin, high nose. Her eyes are more of the Chinese type, as we conceive it, than either the Emperor’s or Empress Dowager’s. Her chin is long and of the type generally called strong. Her mouth is large and extremely sensitive. Her eyes have so kindly a look, her face shines with so sweet an expression, criticism is disarmed and she seems beautiful. She has a sweet dignity, charming manners, and a lovable nature, but there is sometimes a look in her eyes of patient resignation that is almost pathetic. I should not say she possessed any great executive ability, though full of tact, but while Her Majesty the Empress Dowager was in retirement and she was the first Lady at Court, she is said to have shown great capability in her conduct of affairs. Her dignity, perfect breeding, and natural kindness of heart would insure this.

The young Empress has the upright posture and quick, graceful stride of Her Majesty the Empress Dowager. She is small, just under five feet tall, with delicately refined hands and feet that are truly elegant. She 43 has a slender, aristocratic face, with a fine, prominent nose. Her eyes are more reminiscent of the traditional Chinese look, unlike either the Emperor’s or Empress Dowager’s. Her chin is long and considered strong. Her mouth is large and highly expressive. Her eyes carry a kind expression, and her face radiates a sweet demeanor, which makes any critique seem unwarranted, and she appears beautiful. She exudes a gentle dignity, has charming manners, and a lovable personality, but at times there’s a look of patient resignation in her eyes that feels almost sad. I wouldn’t say she has exceptional executive skills, though she is very tactful, but during the period when Her Majesty the Empress Dowager was in retirement, and she took the lead at Court, she reportedly demonstrated significant capability in managing affairs. Her dignity, impeccable upbringing, and natural kindness would guarantee this.

The next Lady, after the young Empress, is the only secondary wife of the Emperor. She is said to have been extremely beautiful at the time she was chosen as his second wife by the Empress Dowager. She belongs to an excellent family, being the daughter of a Viceroy, but though only twenty-eight years old when I knew her, she was already very stout, and there were few remains visible of great beauty. She has very large, full-orbed, brown eyes, and still has a beautifully clear complexion, but her nose is flat, her mouth large and weak; the contour of her face is marred by layers of flesh, her forehead does not indicate much intelligence, and she has very little distinction in appearance. She seems good-natured, but is neither very clever nor tactful. She is not a favorite among the 44 Ladies generally, and is not nearly so interesting, in any way, as the young Empress. She is, however, treated with the most kindly consideration by the young Empress and has precedence over all the other Ladies, and her position at Court is second only to that of the young Empress. Whenever I mention the young Empress, it may be understood that the secondary wife followed immediately after her, coming before the Princesses or any other of the Ladies forming the Court of Her Majesty. I have often seen allusions made to the “Imperial Harem”; there is no such thing as an Imperial Harem at the Court of His Majesty the Emperor Kwang-Hsu. He has only these two wives.

The next lady, after the young Empress, is the only secondary wife of the Emperor. She is said to have been extremely beautiful when she was chosen as his second wife by the Empress Dowager. She comes from an excellent family, being the daughter of a Viceroy, but although she was only twenty-eight when I met her, she was already quite stout, and there were few signs left of her great beauty. She has very large, round brown eyes and still has a beautifully clear complexion, but her nose is flat, her mouth is large and weak; the shape of her face is affected by layers of flesh, her forehead doesn’t indicate much intelligence, and she has very little distinction in her looks. She seems kind-hearted, but she is neither very clever nor tactful. She is not a favorite among the other ladies and is not nearly as interesting as the young Empress. However, she is treated with great kindness by the young Empress and has precedence over all the other ladies, her position at Court being second only to that of the young Empress. Whenever I mention the young Empress, it should be understood that the secondary wife comes immediately after her, ahead of the Princesses or any other ladies at Her Majesty's Court. I have often seen references to the “Imperial Harem”; there is no such thing as an Imperial Harem at the Court of His Majesty Emperor Kwang-Hsu. He has only these two wives. 44

Her Majesty’s Ladies-in-waiting are principally Princesses of the Blood or the widows of Imperial Princes. Her first Lady, Sih-Gerga (Fourth Princess), daughter of Prince Ching, the Prime Minister, is a widow of twenty-four. She married, at the age of sixteen, a son of a high Manchu official, Viceroy of Tientsin, and was left a widow a few months later. She is a beautiful young woman, with face a perfect oval, large brown eyes, and a clear, magnolia-leaf complexion of exquisite texture. She would be called beautiful, judged by any standard. She has no children of her own, but, like most ladies of position who are widows or childless, has an adopted son. Adopted children in China are much closer relationships than is a child, by adoption, with us. In many instances their own parents are still living when they are adopted, and even these parents speak of their child as the son of the adopted mother or parents, and bow to her wishes in bringing up the child.

Her Majesty’s Ladies-in-waiting are mainly Princesses of the Blood or the widows of Imperial Princes. Her first Lady, Sih-Gerga (Fourth Princess), daughter of Prince Ching, the Prime Minister, is a 24-year-old widow. She married at 16 to the son of a high Manchu official, the Viceroy of Tientsin, but became a widow just a few months later. She is a stunning young woman, with a perfectly oval face, large brown eyes, and a smooth, magnolia-leaf complexion of beautiful texture. By any standard, she would be considered beautiful. She doesn't have children of her own, but like many women in her position who are widows or childless, she has an adopted son. In China, adopted children have much closer ties than what we consider when a child is adopted. Often, their biological parents are still alive when they are adopted, and even these parents refer to the child as the son of the adopted mother or parents, respecting their wishes in raising the child.

THE YOUNG EMPRESS YE-HO-NA-LAH

First Wife of the Emperor of China

45 The next two Ladies of the Court are two Duchesses—also widows. Widows in China never remarry, or if they do, they lose caste and reputation. They are not sacrificed on the funeral pyres of their departed husbands, as in India; but a voluntary suicide on the part of a widow in China is still looked upon as a noble act. A widow who remains faithful to the memory of her husband during a long life is rewarded by the greatest respect and consideration during her life, and honored after death.

45 The next two Ladies of the Court are two Duchesses—who are also widows. In China, widows typically don’t remarry, and if they do, they lose their social status and reputation. They aren’t forced to sacrifice themselves on their husbands' funeral pyres like in India; however, a widow's voluntary suicide in China is still seen as a noble act. A widow who remains devoted to her husband's memory throughout her life earns great respect and consideration while living and is honored after her death.

If a girl prefers to remain unmarried, if a widow remains faithful to the memory of her husband, she is honored after her death with much pomp and ceremony! And great memorial arches are erected in her memory! All over China, one is constantly coming upon these arches to widows and virgins. If the family is not sufficiently wealthy to raise these monuments themselves, public subscriptions are taken, all the relatives contribute, and often the inhabitants of the village or the country where the heroine lived beg to be allowed to have their part in raising a monument to her memory. These arches, of stone or wood, are elaborately carved, sometimes with remarkable sculptures of fabulous animals, flowers, and thousands of birds of every kind (these latter showing the immortality the soul has acquired). Across the entablature of the arch, cut deep into the stone or wood, and gilded or painted in glowing vermilion, shines the name of the virgin or widow to whom it is erected, and on the sides of the arch is inscribed an account of her virtuous acts.

If a girl chooses to stay single, or if a widow stays loyal to the memory of her husband, she's honored after her death with great ceremonies! Huge memorial arches are built in her memory! Throughout China, you can often find these arches dedicated to widows and unmarried women. If the family can’t afford to build these monuments themselves, they collect donations from the public, and all the relatives contribute. Often, people from the village or area where the woman lived ask to help fund a monument in her honor. These arches, made of stone or wood, are intricately carved, sometimes featuring amazing sculptures of mythical creatures, flowers, and countless birds (representing the soul's immortality). Across the top of the arch, carved deep into the stone or wood and finished in gold or bright vermilion, you'll see the name of the virgin or widow it honors, and the sides of the arch are inscribed with a summary of her virtuous deeds.

A girl is sometimes affianced at the early age of 46 from six to eight years, and the affianced is from that time spoken of as her husband. Should he die before they marry, which is never earlier than sixteen for the bride, she is considered a “widow,” and must henceforth live the life of a recluse. She can never marry any one else. She may adopt a son, who will call her “mother”; but she may never hope for the joys of family life of her own, without calling down upon her head the obloquy of all whose respect she desires. She wears deep mourning the first three years after his death, and then second mourning; and she can never again put on the festive red, joyous green, or any other color except blue or violet—second mourning.

A girl can sometimes be engaged as early as six to eight years old, and from that point on, she is referred to as having a husband. If he dies before they marry, which never happens before she turns sixteen, she is considered a “widow” and must live a reclusive life. She can never marry anyone else. She can adopt a son, who will call her “mother,” but she can never expect to enjoy a family life of her own without facing the disapproval of those whose respect she wants. She wears deep mourning for the first three years after his death and then moves to second mourning. She can never again wear festive red, cheerful green, or any color other than blue or violet—second mourning.

The Northern Chinese and the Manchu ladies use a great deal of paint and powder on their faces; but a widow can never add one artificial iota to the rose of her cheek, to the cherry of her lips, or the lily of her brow. She can nevermore use paint or powder. In most instances the Chinese ladies are but the prettier for this, for they have beautiful skins, and the use of powder and paint is carried to such an excess as to be quite unnatural.

Northern Chinese and Manchu women use a lot of makeup, but a widow can’t add a single bit of artificial color to her cheeks, lips, or forehead. She can never use makeup again. In many cases, the Chinese women actually look better for this, as they have beautiful skin, and the amount of makeup they use can be so excessive that it appears completely unnatural.

There are only eight of Her Majesty’s Ladies who live always in the Palace, but this number is increased about four times on festive occasions. The Princess Imperial, the Empress Dowager’s adopted daughter, is the first of the Princesses at Court, and, when she comes to the Palace, ranks next to the Empress and the secondary wife of the Emperor.

There are only eight of Her Majesty’s Ladies who always live in the Palace, but this number increases about four times during celebrations. The Princess Imperial, the Empress Dowager’s adopted daughter, is the first of the Princesses at Court, and when she comes to the Palace, she ranks just below the Empress and the Emperor's secondary wife.

One evening, at dinner, in the Throne-room, Sih-Gerga undertook to tell me the relationships of the 47 different Princesses to each other and to the young Empress. Incidentally, this made them related to the Emperor and the Empress Dowager, but neither of Their Majesties’ names was mentioned in this connection, for such would have been a great piece of presumption, amounting almost to sacrilege. They might be related, but no Princess would dare mention such a thing. It would be against all the laws of Chinese proprieties. I found, after this explanation of Sih-Gerga’s, that the Ladies were all related by consanguinity or marriage to each other and to the young Empress.

One evening, during dinner in the Throne Room, Sih-Gerga started to explain the relationships of the different Princesses to one another and to the young Empress. This indirectly linked them to the Emperor and the Empress Dowager, but neither of Their Majesties' names was mentioned in this context, as that would have been highly presumptuous, bordering on sacrilege. They might be related, but no Princess would dare to bring it up. It would go against all the rules of Chinese propriety. After Sih-Gerga's explanation, I realized that the Ladies were all connected to each other and to the young Empress either by blood or marriage.

There are a number of tiring-women and maids in the Palace who are called by outsiders “slaves”; but they are not slaves, or, if they are so, it is but for a time, a space of ten years. Every spring, the daughters of the lowest of the Manchu families, the Seventh and Eighth Banners, are brought into the Palace to be chosen from, by the Empress and Empress Dowager, for maids and tiring-women. One day, on going to the Palace, I saw a number of ordinary carts near one of the Postern Gates, and I learned they had brought crowds of these girls of the families of the Eighth Banner. They are first passed in review by the Head Eunuch, and he selects from them, those he thinks may please Her Majesty. These pass before her, and she tells the Head Eunuch which ones are to remain in the Palace. They are brought to the Palace from the ages of ten to sixteen years. They remain in service for ten years, after which time they are allowed to return to their families; and in case they have been satisfactory and pleased Their Majesties, 48 they are given a comfortable dot and are provided with a handsome marriage outfit, which causes them to make much better marriages than they would otherwise do. During their so-called ten years’ slavery in the Palace, they live upon the fat of the land, have beautiful clothes and many advantages. They wear, while in Her Majesty’s service, blue gowns, with their hair plainly parted at the side and braided in a single long braid (tied with red silk cords), which hangs down the back. They wear bunches of flowers over each ear. The young Empress and secondary wife, as well as each of the Princesses, have their own maids and tiring-women, who remain in the private quarters of these Ladies.

There are a number of women and maids in the Palace who are referred to by outsiders as "slaves"; however, they are not slaves, or if they are, it's only for a limited time, specifically ten years. Every spring, daughters from the lowest Manchu families, particularly from the Seventh and Eighth Banners, are brought into the Palace for the Empress and Empress Dowager to select as maids and attendants. One day, when I went to the Palace, I saw several ordinary carts near one of the Postern Gates, and I learned they had brought a large group of these girls from Eighth Banner families. They are first reviewed by the Head Eunuch, who selects those he thinks will please Her Majesty. These chosen girls are then presented to her, and she tells the Head Eunuch which ones are to stay in the Palace. They come to the Palace at ages ranging from ten to sixteen years. They serve for ten years, after which they can return to their families, and if they have been satisfactory and pleased Their Majesties, 48 they receive a decent dowry and are given a lovely marriage outfit, allowing them to secure much better marriages than they otherwise might. During their so-called ten years of "servitude" in the Palace, they enjoy a luxurious life with beautiful clothing and many privileges. While serving Her Majesty, they wear blue gowns, with their hair plainly parted on the side and braided into a long single braid (secured with red silk cords) that hangs down their back. They also wear clusters of flowers over each ear. The young Empress and secondary wife, as well as each of the Princesses, have their own maids and attendants, who remain in the private quarters of these Ladies.

Besides these young maids, there are in the Palace a number of old women, servants of Her Majesty, who have been married and have children; these overlook the younger women, direct the work of the lower eunuchs, and are in a position somewhat similar to housekeepers with us. Among these is a Chinese woman who nursed Her Majesty through a long illness, about twenty-five years since, and saved her life by giving her mother’s milk to drink. Her Majesty, who never forgets a favor, has always kept this woman in the Palace. Being a Chinese, she had bound feet. Her Majesty, who cannot bear to see them even, had her feet unbound and carefully treated, until now she can walk comfortably. Her Majesty has educated the son, who was an infant at the time of her illness, and whose natural nourishment she partook of. This young man is already a Secretary in a good yamen (Government Office).

Besides these young maids, there are several older women in the Palace who serve Her Majesty and have been married with children. They supervise the younger women, manage the work of the lower eunuchs, and their roles are somewhat like housekeepers in our time. Among them is a Chinese woman who nursed Her Majesty through a serious illness about twenty-five years ago and saved her life by providing her mother’s milk. Her Majesty, who never forgets a kindness, has always kept this woman in the Palace. Being Chinese, she originally had bound feet. Her Majesty, who can't stand to see them, had her feet unbound and treated with care, so now she can walk comfortably. Her Majesty has also educated the son, who was an infant during her illness and whom she nursed. This young man is already a Secretary in a good yamen (Government Office).

No Chinese lady of position ever dresses herself or combs her own hair, and she generally has three or four personal maids. These are, in many instances, bought outright from their parents, and might be considered really slaves; but they are treated with great consideration and even friendliness by their mistresses, and have in most instances a happy lot. As these maids are bought when they and their mistresses are children, they grow up together, and though the maid never forgets the respect due her mistress, they are on a much more friendly footing than mistress and maid could ever be in Europe in such cases.

No Chinese woman of status ever dresses herself or does her own hair, and she usually has three or four personal maids. In many cases, these maids are bought outright from their parents and could be considered real slaves; however, they are treated with great care and even friendliness by their mistresses, and in most cases, they lead a happy life. Since these maids are purchased when both they and their mistresses are young, they grow up together, and although the maid always remembers to show respect to her mistress, they have a much friendlier relationship than what a mistress and maid could have in Europe in similar situations.

The first of a lady’s maids stands behind her at table, no matter how many servitors there may be; goes out with her, sits with her, and sleeps either in her room or at her door, and is almost her constant companion. When the time comes for them to marry, they are given a comfortable outfit by their mistresses, and are cared for to the third and fourth generation; but the children of the so-called slaves are free, unless the mother or parents decide, of their own free will, to sell them, as they have been sold, to some good family.

The head maid stands behind her at the table, no matter how many other servants there are; she goes out with her, sits with her, and either sleeps in her room or at her door, and is nearly always her companion. When it’s time for them to marry, their mistresses provide them with a nice outfit and take care of them for the next few generations; however, the children of these so-called servants are free, unless the mother or parents choose to sell them, just as they were sold, to some good family.

CHAPTER VI CONTINUATION OF THE PORTRAIT—HER MAJESTY'S DOGS

I had daily morning sittings from Her Majesty for the portrait, but always surrounded by the whole Court, with eunuchs coming and going. The sittings were long enough, for I had an hour in the morning and a half-hour in the afternoon with Her Majesty, but she did not expect me to work except when she posed, and this was not enough to make any headway on the picture, as there was a great deal I might have done at other times. Though there was so much going and coming in the Throne-room, it was a great advantage working in Her Majesty’s own “milieu,” surrounded by her favorite furniture, flowers, and fruits. This was some compensation; but I saw, if Her Majesty insisted upon my resting when she did—if I were allowed to work only in the Throne-room and only when she posed—the work could not go on as it should. Sitting for her portrait seemed to be looked on somewhat in the light of an amusement by the Empress Dowager, as a time for conversation and relaxation. She put me many questions while she sat, and I felt she was studying me as closely as I was studying her during that time.

I had daily morning sessions with Her Majesty for the portrait, always surrounded by the entire Court, with eunuchs coming in and out. The sessions lasted long enough; I had an hour in the morning and half an hour in the afternoon with Her Majesty, but she didn’t expect me to work unless she was posing, which didn’t give me enough time to make progress on the painting, as there was a lot I could have done at other times. Even with all the comings and goings in the Throne-room, it was a big advantage working in Her Majesty’s own space, surrounded by her favorite furniture, flowers, and fruits. This was some compensation, but I realized that if Her Majesty insisted I rest when she did—if I was only allowed to work in the Throne-room and only when she posed—then the work couldn’t continue as it should. Sitting for her portrait seemed to be seen by the Empress Dowager more as a form of entertainment, a time for chatting and relaxing. She asked me many questions while she sat, and I felt she was studying me just as intently as I was studying her during that time.

My interest in the personality of this wonderful woman increased each day. I loved to watch the extreme mobility of her countenance when she was at ease and was not invested in her official expression, nor her Buddha-like pose. Her voice was most musical, with no indication of age in it. Her enunciation was clear, and I loved to hear her talk. Though understanding but little of what she said, the music of her voice, the grace of her gesticulations, and the charm of her smile made her conversation most delightful to watch and listen to.

My interest in the personality of this amazing woman grew every day. I loved watching the way her face moved so expressively when she was relaxed and not focused on her official demeanor or her calm pose. Her voice was very melodic, sounding ageless. She spoke clearly, and I enjoyed listening to her. Even though I understood only a little of what she said, the beauty of her voice, the elegance of her gestures, and the charm of her smile made her conversation a joy to watch and hear.

I was delighted that Her Majesty seemed to like me, and I appreciated her consideration in not wishing me to tire myself out with my work, and her kind hospitality which desired to make me acquainted with the charms of the Summer Palace and which allowed me to participate in her promenades and the simple amusements of her Ladies; but I felt it was important to advance the work on the portrait as quickly as possible. I knew that the “favor of kings” is uncertain, and I feared Her Majesty might soon tire of this new departure, of having her portrait painted! I feared the openly expressed opposition of the Chinese to a foreign lady being made a member of the Court circle, their superstition regarding the painting of a portrait of one of Their Majesties, which was against all Chinese tradition, might any day put a stop to the work; but, notwithstanding my fears and my desire to work, the days passed with little painting, and this was the only flaw in my perfect enjoyment of the fairy-like days and the unique experiences through which I was passing.

I was thrilled that Her Majesty seemed to like me, and I appreciated her thoughtfulness in not wanting me to wear myself out with my work, as well as her generous hospitality that aimed to introduce me to the beauty of the Summer Palace and allowed me to join her walks and the simple activities of her ladies. However, I felt it was essential to make progress on the portrait as quickly as possible. I knew that the "favor of kings" is unpredictable, and I worried that Her Majesty might soon lose interest in this new venture of having her portrait painted. I was concerned about the open disapproval from the Chinese towards a foreign woman being included in the Court, as well as their superstition regarding the painting of one of Their Majesties, which went against all Chinese tradition and could halt the work at any moment. Despite my worries and my eagerness to work, the days went by with little painting, and that was the only flaw in my otherwise perfect enjoyment of the magical days and unique experiences I was having.

The walks with Her Majesty had all the pomp and ceremony of the boat-rides—Her Majesty’s and the Empress’s yellow satin sedan chairs, with their six bearers, leading off, followed by the red chairs of the Princesses and Ladies-in-waiting, according to their rank, with a rigorous adherence to precedence, and attended by an army of eunuchs and chair-bearers, etc. No one ever knew what our destination was to be when we started out on these walks, Her Majesty directing her chair-bearers as she was carried along, and the others following this lead; but we were always taken to some interesting spot, where there was something quite worth seeing. When Her Majesty’s chair stopped, all the others were immediately put down by the bearers, and the Ladies got out and went up to where the Empress Dowager’s yellow camp-stool was placed. She had excellent taste in the choice of stopping-places, and the views were always picturesque. She seemed to take great pleasure in showing off the charming points of view, as well as the flowers, grounds, and buildings.

The walks with Her Majesty were just as grand as the boat rides—her yellow satin sedan chair and the Empress’s, each carried by six bearers, led the way, followed by the red chairs of the Princesses and Ladies-in-waiting, arranged strictly by rank and with careful attention to order, accompanied by a team of eunuchs and chair-bearers, etc. Nobody ever knew where we were headed when we set off on these walks, with Her Majesty guiding her bearers as she was carried along, and everyone else following suit; but we always ended up at some fascinating place that had something worth seeing. When Her Majesty’s chair came to a stop, all the others were immediately set down by the bearers, and the Ladies stepped out to join the Empress Dowager at her yellow camp-stool. She had great taste in choosing stopping points, and the views were always stunning. She seemed to really enjoy showcasing the beautiful scenery, along with the flowers, grounds, and buildings.

On one of our walks, her dogs were brought out by their attendant eunuchs. Dogs are great favorites with all the Chinese, and especially with the Empress Dowager. She has some magnificent specimens of Pekingese pugs and of a sort of Skye terrier. The pugs are bred with great care and have reached a high state of perfection, their spots being perfectly symmetrical and their hair beautifully long and silky, and they are of wonderful intelligence. The King Charles spaniels are said to have been bred out of the first of these dogs ever carried to Europe. The Empress Dowager 53 has dozens of these pets, but she has favorites among them, and two are privileged characters. One of these is of the Skye variety, and is most intelligent and clever at tricks. Among other tricks, he will lie as dead at Her Majesty’s command, and never move until she tells him to, no matter how many others may speak to him. Her other favorite she loves for his beauty. He is a splendid, fawn-colored Pekingese pug, with large, pale-brown, liquid eyes. He is devoted to her, and she is very fond of him, but as he was not easily taught, even as a puppy, she called him “Shadza” (fool). Her dogs all have most appropriate names, given by herself. They know Her Majesty’s voice and will obey her slightest word.

On one of our walks, her dogs were brought out by their attendants. Dogs are very popular among all the Chinese, especially with the Empress Dowager. She has some stunning examples of Pekingese pugs and a type of Skye terrier. The pugs are bred with great care and are perfectly defined, with symmetrical spots and beautifully long, silky hair, plus they are incredibly smart. The King Charles spaniels are said to have descended from the first of these dogs brought to Europe. The Empress Dowager 53 has dozens of these pets, but she has favorites among them, and two are particularly special. One is a Skye terrier, known for being very clever and good at tricks. Among other tricks, he will lie completely still at Her Majesty’s command and won’t move until she tells him to, no matter how many others try to get his attention. Her other favorite she adores for his beauty. He is a magnificent, fawn-colored Pekingese pug, with large, pale-brown, soulful eyes. He is devoted to her, and she loves him dearly, but since he wasn’t easy to train, even as a puppy, she nicknamed him “Shadza” (fool). All her dogs have fitting names that she chose herself. They recognize Her Majesty’s voice and will obey her slightest command.

The Empress Dowager does not care for the small sleeve-dog; she hates the thought of their being stunted by being fed only on sweets and wines. She says she cannot understand animals being deformed, at man’s pleasure. The day we first met the dogs in the garden was the first time I had seen them. They rushed up to Her Majesty, not paying the slightest attention to any one else. She patted their heads and caressed and spoke to her favorites. After a while they seemed to notice that a stranger was present, and they bounded over toward me. Some of them growled and showed other evidences of displeasure, some seemed surprised almost to fear; but as the instinct of a dog never deceives him as to who is his friend, this was all soon changed to friendly greetings. I bent down to caress them, and forgot my surroundings, in my pleasure at seeing and fondling these beautiful creatures. I glanced up, presently, never 54 dreaming Her Majesty had been paying any attention to me, as I was standing at a little distance behind her, and I saw on her face the first sign of displeasure I had noticed there. It seems her dogs never noticed any one but herself, and she appeared not to like her pets being so friendly with a stranger at first sight. Noticing this, I immediately ceased fondling them, and they were presently sent away. It was but a momentary shadow that passed over her face, and I quite understood the feeling. One does not like to see one’s pets too friendly with strangers, and I had been tactless in trying to make friends with them at once.

The Empress Dowager doesn't care for the little sleeve-dog; she hates the idea of them being stunted from only being fed sweets and wine. She says she can't understand why animals would be deformed for human pleasure. The day we first encountered the dogs in the garden was the first time I had seen them. They ran up to Her Majesty, completely ignoring anyone else. She patted their heads, stroked them, and talked to her favorites. After a while, they seemed to notice a stranger was there, and they bounded over to me. Some of them growled, showing their displeasure, while others seemed surprised and fearful; but since a dog always knows who is their friend, that quickly changed to friendly greetings. I bent down to pet them, losing track of my surroundings in my delight at seeing and loving these beautiful creatures. I looked up without expecting Her Majesty to have noticed me from a distance behind her, and I saw on her face the first sign of displeasure I'd noticed. It seemed her dogs only acknowledged her, and she didn't like them being so friendly with a stranger at first sight. Realizing this, I immediately stopped petting them, and they were soon sent away. It was just a fleeting shadow that crossed her face, and I completely understood her feelings. Nobody likes to see their pets getting too cozy with strangers, and I had been insensitive in trying to befriend them right away.

A few days later, on another of our walks, some young puppies were brought to be shown the Empress Dowager. She caressed the mother and examined critically the points of the puppies. Then she called me up to show them to me, asking me which I liked best. I tried not to evince too much interest in them this time, but she called my attention to their fine points and insisted upon my taking each of them up. She seemed to be ashamed of her slight displeasure of the day before, and to wish to compensate for it.

A few days later, during another one of our walks, some young puppies were brought to be shown to the Empress Dowager. She petted the mother and looked closely at the puppies' traits. Then she called me over to show them to me, asking which one I liked best. I tried not to show too much interest this time, but she pointed out their good qualities and insisted I pick each of them up. She seemed to be embarrassed about her small annoyance from the day before and wanted to make up for it.

The dogs at the Palace are kept in a beautiful pavilion with marble floors. They have silken cushions to sleep on, and special eunuchs to attend them. They are taken for daily outdoor exercise and given their baths with regularity. There are hundreds of dogs in the Palace, the young Empress, the Princesses and Ladies, and even the eunuchs, having their own. Some of the eunuchs are great fanciers and breeders of them. One of them still breeds the sleeve-dog. Her Majesty’s known dislike to these 55 latter is probably the cause of fewer being bred in the Palace now than formerly; and the race is slowly dying out. All the other dogs in the Palace, except Her Majesty’s, are kept in the apartments and courts of their owners, and are not seen by her.

The dogs at the Palace are kept in a beautiful pavilion with marble floors. They have soft silk cushions to sleep on and special attendants to care for them. They go outside for daily exercise and get regular baths. There are hundreds of dogs in the Palace; the young Empress, the Princesses and Ladies, and even the eunuchs have their own. Some of the eunuchs are passionate enthusiasts and breeders. One of them still breeds the sleeve-dog. The Empress’s known dislike for these dogs is probably why fewer are bred in the Palace now compared to before, and the breed is slowly dying out. All the other dogs in the Palace, except for the Empress’s, are kept in the apartments and courts of their owners and are not seen by her. 55

She dislikes cats very much, but some of the eunuchs have very fine specimens of the felines. They keep them, however, “sub rosa” and within rigid bounds, on no condition allowing them to come within Her Majesty’s ken.

She really dislikes cats, but some of the eunuchs have some pretty impressive ones. They keep them hidden and under strict control, never letting them come into Her Majesty’s view.

The pavilion at the Summer Palace where the Empress Dowager’s dogs were kept was near her Throne-room, and also near the pavilion she had set aside for me. When the Court was taking its siesta, I used to go out where the dogs were basking in the sun in their court and look at and play with these interesting little animals. I was free to do as I pleased, and no one but the dogs’ guardian eunuchs saw me there.

The pavilion at the Summer Palace where the Empress Dowager’s dogs were kept was close to her throne room and also near the pavilion she had reserved for me. When the court took its siesta, I would go out to where the dogs were lounging in the sun in their courtyard and look at and play with these fascinating little animals. I could do whatever I wanted, and only the dogs’ guardian eunuchs saw me there.

Among the younger set, of these pampered pets, was one that caught my fancy—one of those which had been brought for Her Majesty to look at in the garden. He was a beautiful white-and-amber-colored Pekingese pug. He soon learned to know me and would come running to me when I crossed the threshold of the court. Not long after I had discovered where the dogs were kept and had been paying them my daily visits, one night, when we had finished dinner at Her Majesty’s table, one of her eunuchs brought in this very little dog and put it in my arms, saying Her Majesty had presented it to me from her own kennel! She had evidently learned of my visits to the dogs, though none of the eunuchs around her 56 person had seen me go there, at least so I thought! I was delighted to own this beautiful animal, and when the Empress Dowager came into the Throne-room from her own apartments, I went up to her and kissed her hand and thanked her for it. She seemed much pleased that I liked it, and remarked that she had heard it was my favorite of her dogs, that I was to call him “Me-lah” (Golden Amber), from the color of his spots. Her Majesty and the Princesses were all much amused at the way he followed me around, not leaving my side for an instant, nor paying any attention to their frequent efforts to attract his attention. From that day, he became my constant companion and faithful friend.

Among the younger pets, there was one that really caught my eye—one that had been brought for Her Majesty to see in the garden. He was a gorgeous white-and-amber Pekingese pug. He quickly learned to recognize me and would come running whenever I stepped into the courtyard. Not long after I found out where the dogs were kept and started my daily visits, one night, after we finished dinner at Her Majesty’s table, one of her eunuchs came in with this little dog and handed him to me, saying Her Majesty had given it to me from her own kennel! She must have found out about my visits to the dogs, even though none of the eunuchs had seen me go there, or at least that’s what I thought! I was thrilled to have this beautiful animal, and when the Empress Dowager entered the Throne-room from her own quarters, I went up to her, kissed her hand, and thanked her for it. She looked pleased that I liked him and mentioned that she had heard he was my favorite of her dogs, telling me to call him “Me-lah” (Golden Amber) because of the color of his spots. Her Majesty and the Princesses found it amusing how he followed me everywhere, sticking by my side and ignoring their many attempts to get his attention. From that day on, he became my constant companion and loyal friend. 56

CHAPTER VII Court Celebrations

Preparations were now beginning at the Palace for the celebration of His Majesty the Emperor’s Birthday. This is not celebrated on the anniversary of the day he was born, but two days earlier. His Majesty must make the Autumnal Sacrifices to his Ancestors three days after the real date of his Birthday, and he must prepare himself for these sacrifices by a rigorous fast of three days. As it would be impossible to accomplish the ceremonial prescribed for the Imperial Birthday while fasting, the celebration of the Birthday was advanced, a special edict having been issued by the two Empresses, when Co-Regents for the young Emperor, ordering the Birthday celebrations to be advanced by two days, for the date of the sacrifices could not be changed—the sacrifice to one’s Ancestors being the most sacred of obligations to the Chinese, and most rigidly and religiously observed. Even the Chinese Emperor’s Birthday is not celebrated for two years after the death of his predecessor, so rigorous are the rules of respect to the dead and the rites accorded to one’s Ancestors in China.

Preparations were now starting at the Palace for the celebration of His Majesty the Emperor’s Birthday. This is not held on the actual day he was born, but two days earlier. His Majesty must perform the Autumnal Sacrifices to his Ancestors three days after his real birthday, and he must get ready for these sacrifices with a strict three-day fast. Since it would be impossible to carry out the ceremonies for the Imperial Birthday while fasting, the celebration was moved up, a special order having been issued by the two Empresses, who were Co-Regents for the young Emperor, to shift the Birthday celebrations two days earlier, as the sacrifice date couldn’t be altered—the sacrificial rites to one’s Ancestors being the most sacred obligation for the Chinese, and observed with strict adherence and reverence. Even the Chinese Emperor’s Birthday is not celebrated for two years after the death of his predecessor, reflecting the serious rules of respect for the dead and the rituals dedicated to one’s Ancestors in China.

I knew no painting could be done during these 58 festivities, and I expected to go back to the United States Legation. I never dreamed I should be invited to participate in this celebration, hitherto unseen by any foreigner. A week before the Birthday itself, when out for one of our walks with Her Majesty, she called me up to her side and said the Emperor’s Birthday was to be celebrated the next week, and invited me to remain in the Palace for these festivities. I was, of course, overjoyed at this gracious mark of her favor, and delighted to be able to see the Oriental pomp and pageantry that accompanied these ceremonial celebrations in China.

I knew that no painting would be done during these 58 festivities, and I expected to return to the United States Legation. I never imagined I would be invited to take part in this celebration, which had never been seen by any foreigner before. A week before the actual Birthday, while I was out for one of my walks with Her Majesty, she called me to her side and informed me that the Emperor's Birthday would be celebrated the following week, inviting me to stay in the Palace for these festivities. I was, of course, thrilled at this kind gesture and excited to witness the Oriental splendor and pageantry that accompanied these ceremonial celebrations in China.

There were to be magnificent theatrical performances, splendid fireworks and decorations, and all sorts of pageants. The Imperial company of actors had already begun rehearsing special poems and plays, written to celebrate the occasion. Eunuchs were constantly bringing Her Majesty specimens of the work of the decorators and painters who were carrying out her designs as to special scenes and tableaux, or coming to ask for further instructions. The literati, who were preparing the original poems, sent in their manuscripts, that she might judge of their merits and make suggestions. She herself overlooked every detail, and seemed most interested and anxious to have everything successful.

There were going to be amazing stage performances, stunning fireworks and decorations, and all kinds of parades. The Imperial group of actors had already started rehearsing special poems and plays created to celebrate the event. Eunuchs were always bringing Her Majesty examples of the work from decorators and painters who were following her plans for specific scenes and displays, or coming to request more instructions. The scholars, who were preparing the original poems, submitted their manuscripts so she could evaluate their quality and offer suggestions. She personally oversaw every detail and seemed very invested and eager to ensure everything was a success.

The festivities began four days before the Birthday with gala performances at the Theater. Each day the decorations of the buildings, the courts, and gardens increased in beauty. In the principal courts, magnificent bronzes, all sorts of antique instruments of music, used only on these great occasions, were 59 brought out as decorations; for music forms part of every ceremonial, official or religious, in China. Among the curious instruments were splendid bronze frames, with several superposed octaves of triangular musical-stones suspended therefrom; elaborately carved supports for different-toned bells; huge “triangles”; immense bronze “tam-tams,” curiously and beautifully wrought; big drums on splendid bronze stands; wonderfully chased bells; and many other quaint instruments, used only for official and state processions in honor of Their Celestial Majesties.

The celebrations started four days before the Birthday with grand performances at the theater. Each day, the decorations on the buildings, courts, and gardens became more beautiful. In the main courts, impressive bronze pieces and various antique musical instruments, only used for these special occasions, were 59 displayed as decorations; music is an essential part of every ceremony, whether official or religious, in China. Among the fascinating instruments were stunning bronze frames with multiple layers of triangular musical stones hanging from them; intricately carved stands for different-toned bells; large “triangles”; massive bronze “tam-tams,” intricately and beautifully designed; large drums on elegant bronze stands; exquisitely crafted bells; and many other unique instruments, used solely for official and state processions in honor of Their Celestial Majesties.

The slanting and projecting, upturned roofs of the different buildings forming the Palaces were decorated with scarfs of vari-colored silk, knotted into a curious sort of fringe of rosettes, about two feet long; yellow, the Imperial color, and red, the festive color, predominating, but other colors were introduced into the color-scheme to accentuate these.

The angled and protruding, tilted roofs of the various buildings that made up the Palaces were adorned with scarves of multicolored silk, tied into an interesting fringe of rosettes, about two feet long; yellow, the Imperial color, and red, the celebratory color, were the most prominent, but other colors were included in the color scheme to enhance these.

The large Square in front of the Imperial gateway, outside the Precincts, was filled with huge, tent-like, yellow satin umbrellas, with deep curtains around the edge. These umbrellas are used for all great festivities in China, and are generally of red. Those for the Emperor’s Birthday were, of course, of the Imperial yellow, and were richly embroidered with emblematic designs. Presents for the Emperor were arriving daily from all parts of the Great Empire, and though everything was directed by splendid system the commotion was nevertheless great.

The large square in front of the Imperial gateway, outside the precincts, was filled with huge, tent-like yellow satin umbrellas, draped with deep curtains around the edges. These umbrellas are used for all major celebrations in China and are usually red. However, those for the Emperor’s Birthday were, of course, Imperial yellow and were richly embroidered with symbolic designs. Gifts for the Emperor were arriving daily from all over the Great Empire, and although everything was organized splendidly, there was still quite a bit of commotion.

Finally, there was the first gala performance at the Theater. Her Majesty occupied her loge nearly all day, overlooking every detail, sending now and then 60 to the stage one of her eunuchs to transmit her Imperial commands as to the speaking of certain lines or the using of certain postures. On the day of this gala performance she invited all the Ladies of the Palace to lunch, for the first time since I had been there, in the court of the Theater. Her Majesty lunched in the Imperial loge, and then ordered our repast to be served in the court, where tables were laid and served with all the pomp and ceremony that characterized the meals at the Palace. Even this “al-fresco” entertainment was ceremonious.

Finally, the first gala performance at the theater took place. Her Majesty spent nearly the entire day in her private box, overseeing every detail and occasionally sending one of her eunuchs to the stage to pass on her Imperial commands regarding certain lines or specific poses. On the day of this gala, she invited all the Ladies of the Palace to lunch for the first time since I had arrived, in the courtyard of the theater. Her Majesty dined in the Imperial box and then had our meal served in the courtyard, where tables were set up and served with all the pomp and ceremony that defined meals at the Palace. Even this outdoor event was quite formal. 60

Most of the large courts of the Summer Palace have roofs of matting erected over them, to keep out the sun. These mat-roofs make, of the flower-filled courts, delightfully cool, outdoor parlors. The mat-sheds at the Palace are almost works of art. Tall poles, reaching from twenty to thirty feet above the roofs surrounding the courts to be protected from the sun, are painted in festive designs, and they support transversal beams, also gaily painted. Over these roof-beams are stretched strips of the beautiful matting which the Chinese excel in making. Matting-curtains drop from the roof of the sheds to a level with the Palace roofs. These side-curtains, as well as huge sections of the matting-roof, are movable, and may be opened and raised by means of cords and pulleys attached to the supporting pillars. The whole structure, supporting pillars and transversal beams, is tied together with ropes the same color of the beams, and not a nail is used. The mat-sheds are put up in June and taken down in September.

Most of the large courts at the Summer Palace have matting roofs set up to block out the sun. These mat roofs turn the flower-filled courts into wonderfully cool outdoor lounges. The mat sheds at the Palace are almost like works of art. Tall poles, reaching between twenty to thirty feet above the surrounding roofs, are painted in colorful patterns and support cross beams that are also brightly colored. Strips of beautiful matting, which the Chinese are particularly skilled at making, are stretched over these roof beams. Matting curtains hang down from the roof of the sheds to the level of the Palace roofs. These side curtains, along with large sections of the matting roof, can be moved and adjusted using cords and pulleys attached to the support pillars. The entire structure, including the support pillars and cross beams, is tied together with ropes that match the color of the beams, and not a single nail is used. The mat sheds are put up in June and taken down in September.

New ladies were arriving at the Palace every day 61 for a week before the Birthday—members of the Imperial Family from a distance, and the wives and daughters of Manchu nobles who were of sufficient rank to present their congratulations in person. The young Empress never failed to introduce me to these ladies. A foreigner in the Chinese Court is a much more extraordinary circumstance than a Chinese at a European Court would be, and this was, in most instances, the first meeting of these Princesses with any foreigner; but they were uniformly courteous and even cordial, never evincing the slightest curiosity as to my dress or my habits. I doubted whether a Chinese at a European Court, or at our White House, would have been treated with the same consideration by all, even to the servants. The children, of whom there were several at Court at this time, were as well-bred as their elders in their treatment of the “foreign lady.”

New women were arriving at the Palace every day 61 for a week leading up to the Birthday—members of the Imperial Family from afar, and the wives and daughters of Manchu nobles who were important enough to offer their congratulations in person. The young Empress always made sure to introduce me to these women. A foreigner in the Chinese Court is a much rarer situation than a Chinese person at a European Court would be, and this was, in most cases, the first time these Princesses had met any foreigner; but they were consistently polite and even friendly, never showing the slightest curiosity about my clothing or my habits. I wondered if a Chinese person at a European Court, or at our White House, would have received the same level of consideration from everyone, even the servants. The children, of whom there were several at Court during this time, were just as well-mannered as their elders in their interactions with the “foreign lady.”

After our first lunch in the court of the Theater, when the theatrical performance of the day was finished and the actors had left, I approached the stage of the Theater and began examining, with interest, its construction and appointments. The Palace Theater is raised about twelve feet from the ground, and its main floor is on a level with the Imperial loge. The building consists of three stories and a cellar. The latter is used for the few pieces of scenery of the scenic plays, and is where the simple devices used for moving it are manipulated. Like the Greek theater, the stage is open on three sides; and the actors come out and speak their parts, their entrance being to the left and the exit to the right of the stage.

After our first lunch in the courtyard of the Theater, after the day's performance was over and the actors had left, I walked up to the stage and began to examine its structure and features with interest. The Palace Theater is elevated about twelve feet off the ground, and its main floor is level with the Imperial loge. The building has three stories and a basement. The basement is used for the few pieces of scenery for the plays and for the simple equipment used to move them. Like a Greek theater, the stage is open on three sides; the actors enter from the left and exit to the right while delivering their lines.

62 Her Majesty was within her loge while I was examining the construction of the Theater; but she evidently noticed my movements, for the eunuchs soon threw open the great plate doors and she descended the steps of the Imperial loge and came across the court to where I was standing. She asked me if I would not like to go on the stage and look over the building and examine things thoroughly. She added, “You probably may never have such a chance to see a good Chinese theater again.” She, herself, went up the steps leading from the court to the stage, and told me to follow her.

62 Her Majesty was in her box while I was checking out the Theater's construction; but she clearly noticed what I was doing, because the eunuchs soon opened the big glass doors, and she came down the steps of the Imperial box and walked across the courtyard to where I was standing. She asked if I wanted to go on stage and take a closer look at the building and check things out thoroughly. She added, “You probably won’t get another chance to see a great Chinese theater again.” She then went up the steps from the courtyard to the stage and told me to follow her.

The stage is about twenty-five feet square, is roofed over, and projects into the court, its three sides being open. The fourth side has doors and curtains for the entrance and exit of the actors. There are no actresses in China. The men perform the parts of women, and represent them with such success that I was much surprised when I learned there were no actresses. At the back of the stage sit the musicians, who accompany all the theatrical performances in China.

The stage is about twenty-five feet square, has a roof, and extends into the courtyard, with three sides open. The fourth side features doors and curtains for the actors to enter and exit. There are no actresses in China. Men play the roles of women and do so convincingly, which surprised me when I found out there were no female performers. At the back of the stage, the musicians sit, accompanying all the theater performances in China.

Her Majesty, herself, led the way across the stage and we went behind the scenes. Here, I examined closely a number of “Floats” that were to be used, in the procession in honor of the Emperor, on the day of the Birthday. These floats had all been designed by the Empress Dowager. After we had looked at these, she suggested that I had better see the upper floors. These latter are not in general use in Chinese theaters. The theaters, even at the other Palaces, have but one stage. The steps which lead to the second stage, and thence to the third stage, are behind 63 the scenes. The two upper stages are used for spectacular plays and tableaux, when certain of the players group themselves in pyramidal form on these superposed stages and speak their lines therefrom. The upper stages have also trap-doors and pulleys for use in the spectacular plays. Her Majesty went up, herself, to show me these stages. She mounted the steep and difficult steps with as much ease and lightness as I did, and I had on comfortable European shoes, while she wears the six-inch-high Manchu sole in the middle of her foot, and must really walk as if on stilts.

Her Majesty herself led the way across the stage, and we went behind the scenes. Here, I closely examined several "Floats" that were going to be used in the procession honoring the Emperor on his Birthday. These floats had all been designed by the Empress Dowager. After we looked at those, she suggested I should see the upper floors. These are not generally used in Chinese theaters. The theaters, even in the other Palaces, only have one stage. The steps that lead to the second level, and then to the third level, are located behind the scenes. The two upper levels are used for spectacular plays and tableaux, where certain performers arrange themselves in pyramid formations on these stacked stages and deliver their lines from there. The upper levels also have trap doors and pulleys for use in the spectacular plays. Her Majesty ascended to show me these stages. She climbed the steep and challenging steps as easily and gracefully as I did, while I wore comfortable European shoes, and she wore the six-inch-high Manchu sole in the middle of her foot, which requires her to walk as if on stilts. 63

Neither the Empress Dowager nor any of the Manchu ladies bind their feet; that custom prevailed in China before the Manchu conquest. The Manchus have adopted many of the manners and customs of the Chinese, but the Manchu women have retained their own individuality; and to-day, after more than two hundred and fifty years in China, they still wear their native costume, entirely different from the Chinese women. They still dress their hair in the picturesque Manchu fashion. They not only have never bound their feet, but they have as great a horror of it as Europeans have. Manchu ladies are not bound by the same rigid social conventions as are the Chinese women. They are less circumscribed and have more individual freedom than any other Oriental women. In fact, the Manchu woman seems to be, to other Oriental women, what the modern American woman is to her European sisters.

Neither the Empress Dowager nor any of the Manchu women bind their feet; that practice was common in China before the Manchu takeover. The Manchus have adopted many of the customs and habits of the Chinese, but Manchu women have kept their own unique identity; and today, after more than two hundred and fifty years in China, they still wear their traditional attire, which is completely different from that of Chinese women. They continue to style their hair in the distinctive Manchu way. Not only have they never bound their feet, but they also share the same aversion to it that Europeans do. Manchu women aren't constrained by the same strict social norms that Chinese women face. They have more freedom and individuality than any other women in the East. In fact, the Manchu woman seems to represent, to other Eastern women, what the modern American woman is to her European counterparts.

CHAPTER VIII Emperor Kwang-Hsu

The Emperor Kwang-Hsu was barely eighteen years old when Her Majesty the Empress Dowager, Regent of the Empire, handed over to him the reins of Government, admonishing him in a parting Imperial Decree to “discipline his body, develop his mind, love his People, and give unceasing attention to the administration of Government,” which Decree His Majesty responded to in fitting terms, by another Decree, begging “Her Majesty the Empress Dowager to continue to advise him in important affairs,” saying he “would not dare to be indolent,” that only after prayer and sacrifice “to Heaven and Earth and his Ancestors would he Himself begin to administer affairs of State on the 15th day of the First moon of the 13th year of his Reign”! He began to reign by our count the 25th day of February, 1889, under the appellation of “Kwang-Hsu” (Glorious Succession). The name under which an Emperor of China reigns is not his own, but one chosen for him, and has generally some appropriate signification or some symbolic meaning.

The Emperor Kwang-Hsu was just eighteen years old when Her Majesty the Empress Dowager, the Regent of the Empire, handed over the control of the government to him. In a farewell Imperial Decree, she urged him to “take care of his health, expand his knowledge, care for his people, and pay constant attention to governance.” The young Emperor responded appropriately with another Decree, asking “Her Majesty the Empress Dowager to keep advising him on important matters,” stating he “would not dare to be lazy,” and that only after praying and making sacrifices “to Heaven and Earth and his Ancestors would he himself start administering state affairs on the 15th day of the First month of the 13th year of his reign!” He officially began to rule on February 25, 1889, under the title “Kwang-Hsu” (Glorious Succession). The name an Emperor of China uses during his reign isn’t his own, but one chosen for him, often carrying a meaningful or symbolic significance.

His Majesty Kwang-Hsu is the twelfth Emperor, who has reigned over China, of the Dynasty of the 65 “Great Purity,” as the Manchu Dynasty is called.[2] His reign began at the age of five years, under the Co-Regency of the Empress of the Eastern and Empress of the Western Palaces. The former died in 1881, and from that time on Her Majesty, the present Empress Dowager, ruled alone as “Regent.” His reign, counting the years of the Regency, has already lasted thirty years, the third in point of length of any of the Emperors of the Manchu Dynasty.

His Majesty Kwang-Hsu is the twelfth Emperor of China from the "Great Purity" Dynasty, also known as the Manchu Dynasty. 65 He began his reign at just five years old, under the Co-Regency of the Empress of the Eastern Palace and the Empress of the Western Palace. The former passed away in 1881, and since then, Her Majesty, the current Empress Dowager, has ruled alone as "Regent." His reign, including the years of the Regency, has already lasted thirty years, making it the third longest among the Emperors of the Manchu Dynasty.

His Majesty the Emperor Kwang-Hsu was nearing the completion of his thirty-second year when I was first presented to him. I found him an interesting study, but not to the degree of Her Majesty the Empress Dowager, who has charm and is so fascinating. The Emperor is singularly devoid of this quality of “charm,” and has but little personal magnetism. He interests one, nevertheless. Her Majesty is Universal, the Emperor is typically Oriental. In person he is of slight and elegant figure, not more than five feet four in height. He has a well-shaped head, with the intellectual qualities well developed, a high brow, with large brown eyes and rather drooping lids, not at all Chinese in form or setting. His nose is high and, like most members of the Imperial Family, is of the so-called “noble” type. A rather large mouth with thin lips, the upper short with a proud curve, the lower slightly protruding, a clear-cut, thin jaw, a strong chin a little beyond the line of the forehead, with not an ounce of superfluous flesh on the whole face, give him an ascetic air and, in spite of his rather delicate physique, an appearance of great reserve strength. His complexion is not so white and clear 66 as that of the other members of the Imperial Family, for the Manchus have whiter skins than the Chinese; but this seems more the result of delicacy than natural with the Emperor. His luxuriant, very long hair, a characteristic of the Manchus, is beautifully silky and glossy and always arranged with the greatest care. It is said he much dislikes being shaved, but tradition, immutable in China, does not allow a man under forty, even if he be the “Son of Heaven,” to wear a mustache or whiskers. Like all well-bred Chinese, he has small feet and hands, the latter long and thin and most expressive. The Emperor dresses with extreme neatness and great simplicity, wearing few ornaments and no jewels except on State occasions. His face is kindly in expression, but the glance from his rather heavy-lidded eyes is shrewd and intelligent. His manner is shy and retiring, but this does not seem to be so much from a lack of confidence in himself as from the absence of that magnetic quality, which gives one an appearance of assurance.

His Majesty Emperor Kwang-Hsu was almost thirty-two years old when I first met him. I found him interesting, but not as captivating as Her Majesty the Empress Dowager, who has charm and is incredibly fascinating. The Emperor lacks this "charm" entirely and has very little personal magnetism. Nonetheless, he still piques one’s interest. Her Majesty represents a universal appeal, while the Emperor is distinctly Oriental. In person, he has a slight and elegant build, standing at about five feet four inches tall. He has a well-shaped head with well-developed intellectual features, a high forehead, large brown eyes with slightly drooping lids that don't have the typical Chinese shape. His nose is high and, like many in the Imperial Family, is of the so-called "noble" type. He has a relatively large mouth with thin lips—his upper lip is short with a proud curve, and the lower lip is slightly protruding. His jawline is sharp, and his strong chin extends just beyond the line of his forehead, with no excess flesh on his face, giving him a somewhat ascetic appearance. Despite his delicate physique, there’s an impression of great inner strength. His complexion is not as white and clear as that of the other members of the Imperial Family, since Manchus have fairer skin than the Chinese; however, this seems more related to delicacy rather than being a natural trait of the Emperor. His thick, long hair, which is a characteristic of the Manchus, is beautifully silky and glossy, always styled with great care. It is said that he dislikes being shaved, but tradition, which is unchanging in China, forbids a man under forty, even if he is the "Son of Heaven," from having a mustache or beard. Like all well-mannered Chinese, he has small feet and hands, the latter being long, thin, and very expressive. The Emperor dresses with extreme neatness and great simplicity, wearing few ornaments and no jewelry except on State occasions. His expression is kind, but the look in his rather heavy-lidded eyes is shrewd and intelligent. He has a shy and reserved demeanor, but this seems less about a lack of confidence and more about the absence of that magnetic quality that often gives people an air of assurance. 66

He seemed to me the ideal of what one would imagine an Oriental potentate to be, whose title is the “Son of Heaven.” There is a Sphinx-like quality to his smile. In his eyes one sees the calm, half-contemptuous outlook upon the world, of the fatalist. There is an abstractness in the subtilty of his regard, an abstractness that embodies one’s idea of the “Spirit of the Orient.” At first it is difficult to tell whether this comes from a sense of power or from a knowledge of the lack of it, but that firm and fleshless jaw, that ascetic face and keen eye, show there must be reserve strength, that there can be no lack of 67 power, should he wish to exert it. Over his whole face there is a look of self-repression, which has almost reached a state of passivity.

He struck me as the very embodiment of what you'd picture an Eastern ruler to be, someone with the title “Son of Heaven.” His smile has a mysterious, Sphinx-like quality. In his eyes, you can see a calm, almost contemptuous view of the world, like a fatalist. There’s a certain abstraction in the subtlety of his gaze that captures the idea of the “Spirit of the Orient.” At first, it's hard to determine if this comes from a sense of power or an awareness of its absence, but that strong, bony jaw, that ascetic face, and sharp eye suggest there’s hidden strength, that he definitely possesses power if he chooses to use it. His entire expression carries an air of self-control that’s nearly reached a state of passiveness. 67

Does he dream of future greatness for the Empire? Does he feel that though his first efforts at governing have failed, he can bide his time—that all things will come to him who waits? Enigma, difficult to divine! But it almost seems so! He appears to fully realize, now, that he made a mistake in the choice of his instruments and time, in his efforts for Progress. But the look of eternal patience in the half-veiled regard of those large eyes seems to show that he will yet try to accomplish China’s salvation—that he is but waiting his opportunity.

Does he dream of a great future for the Empire? Does he believe that even though his initial efforts at governing have failed, he can be patient—that everything will come to those who wait? It’s a puzzle, hard to figure out! But it almost feels true! He seems to understand now that he made a mistake in selecting his tools and timing in his quest for Progress. Yet, the look of endless patience in the half-hidden gaze of those large eyes suggests that he will still try to achieve China’s salvation—that he is simply waiting for his chance.

There is no evidence of the Emperor’s feeling any animosity toward the Empress Dowager. Their relations, though rigidly formal, as is necessary from their exalted positions, seem to be most friendly. If there is any feeling on his part as to the check his Government received by the “coup d’état” of 1898, he does not seem to feel that Her Majesty is responsible for it. It was not she who put a momentary stop to his dreams of Progress. It was Chinese conservatism, a coalition of powerful ministers who put up the barriers of the “coup d’état” before him when His Majesty thought to drive on to Progress.

There’s no indication that the Emperor feels any resentment toward the Empress Dowager. Their relationship, although strictly formal due to their high status, appears to be quite friendly. If he has any feelings about the setback his Government faced from the “coup d’état” of 1898, he doesn’t seem to blame Her Majesty for it. It wasn’t her who interrupted his aspirations for Progress. It was Chinese conservatism, a group of powerful ministers who erected the obstacles of the “coup d’état” just when His Majesty was eager to move forward with Progress.

The Empress Dowager returned from her retirement and took up the reins of Government again, at the earnest prayers of the wisest Statesmen of China. She was persuaded by them, and she also believed, that the Emperor was driving the Chariot of State too fast over the difficult and ill-kept roads of traditional 68 Chinese routine. She felt that His Majesty, as well as the state, would soon be dashed to pieces if he continued as he was then going. It seems as if the Emperor realizes it all now. His unfathomable eye hides an infinity of possibilities, perchance a world of events. Is he quietly studying how to seize opportunity, when it next passes, and leap upon its back and lash it on to Progress or to—Ruin? He would meet either with that same stoical, Sphinx-like smile, I feel confident.

The Empress Dowager came out of retirement and took control of the government again at the sincere request of China's wisest statesmen. They convinced her, and she also believed, that the Emperor was rushing the country too quickly along the bumpy and neglected paths of traditional Chinese governance. She sensed that both His Majesty and the state would soon be shattered if he continued on his current course. It seems the Emperor is beginning to understand this now. His deep gaze conceals countless possibilities, perhaps a world of events. Is he quietly contemplating how to seize the next opportunity as it comes and ride it toward Progress or—Destruction? He would face either outcome with that same stoic, enigmatic smile, I'm confident. 68

He seems, now, to give but little advice. He holds Audiences, however, and sees many of the officials alone. He issues edicts independent of Her Majesty; but on all grave affairs, and at the meeting of the Grand Council, Her Majesty is always present, and the decisions are the results of their two opinions. When despatches were brought into Her Majesty’s Throne-room when the Emperor was present, they were first handed to her, and, after glancing them over, she would give them to him. He, after carefully reading them, handed them back to her with rarely a comment. One could see, though, that this was not from ignorance of the subject, but that he trusted, for the time being, to Her Majesty’s greater experience.

He seems to give very little advice these days. He holds meetings and speaks with many officials privately. He issues directives on his own authority, but for serious matters and during the Grand Council meetings, Her Majesty is always there, and their decisions come from both of their viewpoints. When dispatches were brought into Her Majesty’s Throneroom while the Emperor was present, they were first given to her. After she briefly reviewed them, she would pass them on to him. He would read them carefully, then return them to her with hardly any comments. It was clear, though, that this wasn’t due to a lack of understanding; rather, he relied on Her Majesty’s greater experience for the time being.

Though the Emperor does not seem to feel that the time has come for him to act, he studies every event with the closest attention, and is well informed upon every subject connected with the welfare of the state. As long as the Empress Dowager sits upon the throne with him, I think he will not try to make any of his ideas paramount to hers. He knows that she also 69 wishes Progress for China, and that her methods, more conservative and necessarily slower than his, may, in the end, accomplish just as good results. He seems to trust her thoroughly, and to be willing to have her take the lead. He knows, and the world will soon see, that Her Majesty the Empress Dowager is also vowed to Progress for China; that she is not anti-progressive, nor against reform, now that she feels the time has come for Progress and Reform. Her late edicts show this.

Though the Emperor doesn’t seem to feel that it's time for him to take action, he pays close attention to every event and is well informed about everything related to the state's welfare. As long as the Empress Dowager is on the throne with him, I believe he won’t try to prioritize his ideas over hers. He knows that she also wants Progress for China, and her methods, which are more conservative and necessarily slower than his, may ultimately achieve just as good results. He seems to trust her completely and is willing to let her take the lead. He understands, and the world will soon see, that Her Majesty the Empress Dowager is also committed to Progress for China; she is neither anti-progressive nor against reform, especially now that she feels the time has come for Progress and Reform. Her recent edicts demonstrate this. 69

Whether the remodeling of China’s laws, which will bring her into line with the Great Nations of to-day, will come during the Emperor’s life; whether his power of waiting and his patience may enable him to reach the time when accomplishment shall crown his efforts, who can tell! In the meantime, he fulfils his duties as Official Head of the Empire, rigidly observing all public and private ceremonies incumbent upon him as Emperor.

Whether the reform of China’s laws, which will align the country with today’s Great Nations, will happen while the Emperor is still alive; whether his ability to wait and his patience will allow him to see the time when his efforts are finally successful, who knows! In the meantime, he carries out his responsibilities as the Official Head of the Empire, strictly adhering to all the public and private ceremonies required of him as Emperor.

The Emperor occupies a Palace fronting on the Great Lake as elegant and luxurious as Her Majesty’s. He has his own eunuchs and attendants, and leads his own life, quite independent of Her Majesty and the Ladies. He pays his respects to his “august aunt and adopted mother” every morning before the Audience, and they go together to transact affairs of state, after which he returns to his own Palace and follows his own pursuits. On festivals, when the Theater is going, he comes into the Imperial loge during the representations, and, on these days, joins the Empress Dowager and the Ladies in their walks around the gardens or in boating on the lake. He 70 also dines with Her Majesty on these occasions. He does not seem to care as much for the Theater as she does, nor to follow it with so much interest. He often leaves the Imperial loge in the middle of a play, and goes to his own Theater Throne-room, just behind the great Imperial loge, where he passes the time in reading or smoking, which he never does in the presence of Her Majesty.

The Emperor lives in a palace overlooking the Great Lake, which is just as beautiful and luxurious as the Empress’s. He has his own eunuchs and attendants and leads his own life, completely independent of the Empress and the ladies. Every morning, he pays his respects to his “august aunt and adopted mother” before the Audience, and they discuss state matters together. Afterward, he returns to his palace to pursue his own interests. During festivals, when the theater performances are happening, he comes into the Imperial loge for the shows and, on those days, walks around the gardens or goes boating on the lake with the Empress Dowager and the ladies. He also dines with the Empress on these occasions. He doesn’t seem to enjoy the theater as much as she does or follow it with the same enthusiasm. He often leaves the Imperial loge in the middle of a play and goes to his own theater throne room, just behind the grand Imperial loge, where he spends time reading or smoking, which he never does in the presence of the Empress. 70

He occupies himself daily with his studies, among which is English. He is a great reader. There is a special official, at the Palace, who buys His Majesty’s books, and they say this is no sinecure, as he does not devote himself only to Chinese literature and the classics, but devours translations of foreign works and is constantly calling for new ones. They say he always reads a book a day, besides attending to his other duties.

He spends his days focused on his studies, including English. He's an avid reader. There’s a special official at the Palace who buys books for His Majesty, and it’s said that this isn't an easy job, as he doesn't just stick to Chinese literature and classics but also eagerly reads translated foreign works and is always asking for new ones. It's said that he reads a book every day, in addition to handling his other responsibilities.

He is passionately fond of music, plays on a number of Chinese instruments, and has even tried the piano. He has a good ear for music, and can pick out any air he has heard upon any instrument at his disposal. He is very clever, also, in a mechanical way, and can take to pieces and put together a clock, with fair success. He has been known, however, to fail in getting the very complicated mechanism of some of the Palace clocks properly together again. The Empress Dowager is constantly fearing that His Majesty will take some of her favorite clocks to pieces and not be able to put them into working order again; and he will not allow any one else to finish what he has begun.

He loves music and plays several Chinese instruments, and he’s even tried the piano. He has a good ear for music and can play any melody he’s heard on any available instrument. He’s also quite skilled mechanically and can take apart and reassemble a clock with decent success. However, he has struggled to properly reassemble some of the more complex mechanisms of the Palace clocks. The Empress Dowager constantly worries that he will take apart some of her favorite clocks and won’t be able to get them working again, and he won’t let anyone else finish what he started.

He is a very early riser, often getting up as early 71 as two A.M. When there was some ceremony in Peking or some sacrifice to his Ancestors, he would go the sixteen miles, perform the ceremony or sacrifice and return in time for the Audience at eight o’clock, and it takes two hours and a half for the Emperor’s swift runners to carry him the sixteen miles between the Summer Palace and Peking. He does not seem to care for young associates, either men or women, though he is very fond of children. He had but few favorites in the Palace, and quite ignored the pretty young girls and women of Her Majesty’s “entourage.” He seems to have great respect for cleverness.

He gets up really early, often as early as two A.M. When there was a ceremony in Beijing or a tribute to his ancestors, he would travel the sixteen miles, perform the ceremony or tribute, and make it back in time for the audience at eight o’clock. It takes two and a half hours for the Emperor’s fastest runners to cover the sixteen miles between the Summer Palace and Beijing. He doesn’t seem to connect with younger people, whether men or women, but he is very fond of children. He had only a few favorites in the palace and mostly ignored the pretty young women in Her Majesty’s "entourage." He seems to have a lot of respect for intelligence.

There are certain distinctions made with reference to Her Majesty and the Emperor, which are rather curious. Her Majesty, being his Ancestress, is first in everything. She sits upon the Throne in the Great Audience Hall, while His Majesty sits on a stool at her left. He walks beside her chair when they go out, and stands in her presence, but when they dine together he sits in the place of honor at the end of the table. When Her Majesty dines alone, her chop-sticks and spoons, as well as the covers of her yellow porcelain dishes, are of silver. When Their Majesties dine together, the covers of the dishes are of gold, and His Majesty’s chop-sticks and spoons are also of gold. I never knew what kind of covers or chop-sticks were used when the Emperor dined alone; for this was always in his own Palace, and I never saw his Palace except from the outside. It was not considered good taste, nor according to the “Proprieties,” even to look that way when the Ladies happened to pass it in their promenades.

There are some interesting distinctions regarding Her Majesty and the Emperor. Her Majesty, being his ancestor, takes precedence in everything. She sits on the throne in the Great Audience Hall, while His Majesty sits on a stool to her left. He walks beside her chair when they go out and stands in her presence, but when they have dinner together, he sits at the head of the table. When Her Majesty dines alone, her chopsticks and spoons, as well as the covers of her yellow porcelain dishes, are made of silver. When Their Majesties dine together, the covers of the dishes are made of gold, and His Majesty’s chopsticks and spoons are also gold. I never knew what kind of covers or chopsticks were used when the Emperor dined alone, as this was always in his own palace, and I only ever saw his palace from the outside. It wasn't considered good taste or proper etiquette to even look in that direction when the ladies happened to pass by during their strolls.

72 When His Majesty walked in the grounds with only his own attendants, without being in the train of the Empress Dowager, his walks were in parts of the grounds not frequented by the Ladies. On Festival days, when he went out in the Imperial barge, or walked with Her Majesty and the Ladies, as he sometimes did, he went through these promenades with his usual courteous demeanor, but he did not seem to enjoy them, and when they were finished he would return with his own attendants to his own Palace. He assisted Her Majesty when she was entertaining the Foreign Representatives, but one, who knew him, could plainly see that he was bored by these Audiences. He would slip away at the first opportunity, not because he objected to the foreigners, but that these state functions were not to his taste. Her Majesty would have preferred him to do his share in the entertainment of the Foreign Representatives and be more “en évidence.” Though never out of temper or disagreeable on these occasions, and while he seemed to wish to do his duty, he seemed anxious to get them over. Whether from shyness or dislike at the functions, I could not tell.

72 When the King walked around the grounds with just his attendants, without being with the Dowager Empress, he chose areas of the grounds not often visited by the ladies. On festival days, when he took the Imperial barge or strolled with Her Majesty and the ladies, as he sometimes did, he walked through those areas with his typical courteous demeanor, but he didn’t seem to enjoy himself, and when it was over, he would go back to his own Palace with his attendants. He assisted Her Majesty during her gatherings with the foreign representatives, but anyone who knew him could clearly see that he was bored by these audiences. He would take the first chance to slip away, not because he had anything against the foreigners, but because these state functions just weren’t his thing. Her Majesty wished he would take a more active role in entertaining the foreign representatives and be more “in the spotlight.” Although he was never rude or unpleasant during these events, and while he seemed to want to fulfill his duties, he appeared eager to see them end. Whether this was due to shyness or a dislike of the functions, I couldn’t say.

CHAPTER IX THE EMPEROR'S BIRTHDAY

We went to the Palace early the day of His Majesty’s Birthday, and were in the Empress Dowager’s Throne-room at six o’clock in the morning; but long before that time, the outer court was filled with the red and yellow chairs and carts of the visiting members of the Imperial Family, who had come in from Peking and from the neighboring Palaces for the day. The high eunuchs were in gala costume, wearing silken gowns of great beauty, embroidered in the Double Dragon. The eunuchs of lower rank were more simply gowned, as the representation of the Double Dragon on the Court gown is only allowed to those of a certain rank. Our chair-bearers were clad in the festive red, with brocaded figures, representing the characters for Longevity.

We arrived at the Palace early on the day of His Majesty’s Birthday and were in the Empress Dowager’s Throne-room by six o’clock in the morning. But even before then, the outer court was packed with the red and yellow chairs and carts of the visiting members of the Imperial Family, who had come from Peking and nearby Palaces for the celebration. The high-ranking eunuchs were dressed in their finest, wearing beautiful silk gowns embroidered with the Double Dragon. The lower-ranking eunuchs wore simpler outfits since only those of a certain rank are allowed to wear the Double Dragon design on their Court gowns. Our chair-bearers were dressed in festive red adorned with brocaded figures symbolizing Longevity.

We passed through the beautifully decorated courts, past the gaily decked Palaces to the Throne-room of Her Majesty, where the Emperor had come to receive the private congratulations of the Princesses of the blood and the Ladies of the Court. It would have been against the laws of Chinese etiquette for these Ladies to go into the Emperor’s Palace to congratulate him, even on such an occasion as his Birthday. 74 When we entered the Throne-room, the Emperor was seated, or rather, reclining upon a lounge in the most informal manner. He was not averse, as was Her Majesty, to the reclining position when on the Throne. His greater Orientalism was evidenced here, for the Oriental proverb says, “’Tis better to be sitting than standing, to be lying than sitting,” etc. He sat up a little straighter on our entrance, and the Ladies made the formal Chinese bow, which he returned by a friendly nod and kindly smile. I made the European reverence as usual.

We walked through the beautifully decorated courtyards and past the festively adorned palaces to the throne room of Her Majesty, where the Emperor had come to receive private congratulations from the princesses and the ladies of the court. It would have been against Chinese etiquette for these ladies to enter the Emperor’s palace to congratulate him, even on his birthday. 74 When we entered the throne room, the Emperor was seated, or rather, lounging in a very casual way. Unlike Her Majesty, he was fine with reclining while on the throne. His greater Eastern influence was clear here, as the Eastern proverb states, “It’s better to be sitting than standing, and lying down is better than sitting,” etc. He sat up a bit straighter when we walked in, and the ladies performed the formal Chinese bow, which he returned with a friendly nod and a warm smile. I made my usual European bow.

His Majesty was dressed a little more elaborately than usual, in a yellow gown, tightly belted in around his slender waist with a handsome belt buckle of jade. At this morning salutation by the Ladies of his family, his hat lay beside him on the couch, which showed it was unceremonious, for ceremonies are carried on by the Emperor and all Chinese with their hats on. The great Imperial Pearl, one of the most precious of the Imperial jewels, formed the button of his hat on his Birthday. The seven official ranks of Mandarins are shown by the different colors of the buttons worn on their hats. The color of these buttons denotes the rank acquired by their wearers, those of the Manchu Princes, alone, being hereditary. The buttons of these latter are generally of jewels or semi-precious stones. The Emperor, the most simply dressed man I saw in China, wears, as a rule, a plain red silk button, but the Pearl, which can only be worn by a reigning Emperor, is used on state occasions.

His Majesty was dressed a bit more elaborately than usual, in a yellow gown, tightly belted at his slender waist with a beautiful jade belt buckle. During the morning greeting by the ladies of his family, his hat rested beside him on the couch, indicating it was an informal occasion, as ceremonies are normally conducted by the Emperor and all Chinese while wearing hats. The great Imperial Pearl, one of the most valuable Imperial jewels, served as the button on his hat for his Birthday. The seven official ranks of Mandarins are represented by the different colors of the buttons worn on their hats. The color of these buttons signifies the rank held by their wearers, with those of the Manchu Princes being hereditary. The buttons of these princes are typically made of jewels or semi-precious stones. The Emperor, the most simply dressed man I saw in China, usually wears a plain red silk button, but the Pearl, which can only be worn by a reigning Emperor, is used on formal occasions.

After we had greeted His Majesty, we moved further into the Throne-room to await the “lever” of the Empress 75 Dowager. When she came out of her sleeping apartments, the Ladies fell upon their knees and simultaneously repeated the words of greeting used every morning to Her Majesty, “Lao-Tzu-Tzung Chee-Siang” (Great Ancestress, be happy). After acknowledging their salutations, she advanced and held out her hand to me, and I took it and, as was now my custom, raised the tips of her fingers to my lips. I, of course, never made any but a European salutation to either Her Majesty or the Emperor. She was very gracious and said I would be the first foreigner who had ever seen the birthday celebration of any of the Sons of Heaven, and she hoped I would enjoy it! She then commented on my dress and ornaments, examining the few jewels I wore. After this she turned to the Ladies and, with a quick glance, took in all the details of their Court costumes, calling their attention to the way their official beads hung and signaling any little deviation from traditional forms that she noticed in their attire. She was extremely rigid as to all the details of Court dress.

After greeting His Majesty, we moved deeper into the Throne room to wait for the Empress Dowager's arrival. When she came out of her bedroom, the Ladies dropped to their knees and recited the daily greeting to Her Majesty: “Lao-Tzu-Tzung Chee-Siang” (Great Ancestress, be happy). After acknowledging their greetings, she approached and extended her hand to me. I took it and, as was my custom, brought the tips of her fingers to my lips. Of course, I only offered a European greeting to both Her Majesty and the Emperor. She was very gracious and mentioned that I would be the first foreigner ever to witness the birthday celebration of any of the Sons of Heaven, and she hoped I would enjoy it! She then commented on my clothing and jewelry, examining the few gems I wore. After this, she turned to the Ladies, swiftly assessing all the details of their Court costumes, pointing out how their official beads hung and indicating any small deviations from traditional styles she noticed in their outfits. She was extremely strict about all the details of Court attire. 75

The Court costume of the Ladies is magnificent. That worn at the Emperor’s Birthday (the summer costume) was of the stiff transparent silk I have described in the gown worn by Her Majesty for the portrait. The Court costume of the married ladies is of dark red, embroidered in golden dragons. The widows wear blue; the unmarried girls, bright red—all with the Double Dragon embroidered thereon. The married ladies and widows, when in Court attire, wear a magnificent court head-dress with jeweled crown. The young girls, even in Court dress, wear 76 the ordinary Manchu coiffure, with the long red silk tassels falling to their shoulders. The young Empress was charming on the Birthday. Her head-dress was of golden filigree, thickly set with jewels. Across the front, nine beautifully chased golden phenix, with jeweled tails outspread, held in their bills strings of pearls that fell to her shoulders and veiled her forehead. Square, conventionalized bunches of flowers projected from either side of this curiously and elaborately wrought head-dress. Her gown was of the Imperial yellow, embroidered with the golden Double Dragon. She had, around her neck, a solid piece of chased gold, like a huge open ring, with balls at the ends; and she wore the official beads that are always worn in Court dress by Princes and Officials and their wives. The Emperor and Empress Dowager are the only members of the Court who wear, neither the Double Dragon on their Court dress, nor the official beads. Suspended from the Empress’s neck was a magnificently embroidered stole, about four inches wide, which reached to the hem of her gown. This stole is only worn by the wives of Emperors, during their husband’s lifetime. The young Empress seemed unusually happy to-day, and this was the first time I had ever seen her and the Emperor in conversation. Next to the young Empress came the only secondary wife of the Emperor. She was dressed exactly as the young Empress was; the same gown, the same head-dress, the same embroidered stole, only her jewels were not so handsome, and her dress, instead of being of the Imperial yellow, was of orange. Yellow can only be worn by the first wife of an Emperor!

The court attire of the ladies is stunning. The outfit worn at the Emperor’s Birthday (the summer outfit) was made of the stiff transparent silk I described in the gown worn by Her Majesty for her portrait. The court outfit for married ladies is dark red, embroidered with golden dragons. The widows wear blue; the unmarried girls wear bright red—all featuring the Double Dragon embroidery. The married ladies and widows, when in court attire, wear a magnificent court headdress with a jeweled crown. The young girls, even in court dresses, wear the typical Manchu hairstyle, with long red silk tassels that fall to their shoulders. The young Empress looked charming on her Birthday. Her headdress was made of golden filigree, heavily adorned with jewels. Across the front, nine beautifully crafted golden phoenixes, with jeweled tails spread wide, held strings of pearls in their beaks that fell to her shoulders and veiled her forehead. Square, stylized bunches of flowers projected from either side of this intricately designed headdress. Her gown was imperial yellow, embroidered with the golden Double Dragon. Around her neck, she wore a solid piece of chased gold, like a large open ring, with balls at the ends; and she had the official beads that are always worn in court dress by princes and officials and their wives. The Emperor and Empress Dowager are the only members of the court who don’t wear either the Double Dragon on their court attire or the official beads. Hanging from the Empress’s neck was a beautifully embroidered stole, about four inches wide, that reached to the hem of her gown. This stole is only worn by the wives of Emperors during their husbands’ lifetimes. The young Empress seemed especially happy today, and this was the first time I had ever seen her and the Emperor engaged in conversation. Next to the young Empress was the Emperor’s only secondary wife. She was dressed exactly like the young Empress; the same gown, the same headdress, the same embroidered stole, but her jewels were less splendid, and her dress, instead of being imperial yellow, was orange. Yellow can only be worn by the first wife of an Emperor!

77 After the salutations to the Emperor and Empress Dowager in Her Majesty’s private Throne-room, Her Majesty went out into the court and took her place in her yellow chair of State, the Emperor following, on foot, as was his custom. The cymbals clashed. The flutes sounded and all the instruments of the Imperial Band played the curious minor air, with its tragic undertone of sound, its rhythm like a Gregorian chant, which is only played at the passing of Their Majesties for some great ceremony or official function, and which I soon called the “Imperial Hymn.” This is the only approach to a National air that I ever heard in China.

77 After greeting the Emperor and Empress Dowager in Her Majesty’s private Throne room, Her Majesty stepped out into the court and took her seat in her yellow chair of State, with the Emperor following on foot, as he usually did. The cymbals crashed together. The flutes played, and all the instruments of the Imperial Band performed a unique minor melody, rich with a tragic undertone, its rhythm reminiscent of a Gregorian chant. This music was only played during the procession of Their Majesties for significant ceremonies or official events, and I soon began to refer to it as the “Imperial Hymn.” This was the closest thing to a National anthem I ever heard in China.

Their Majesties went in ceremonious procession to the Great Audience Hall, where the Princes, Nobles, and high Officials privileged to enter Precincts, were to present their homage and congratulations to the Son of Heaven on the happy occasion of his Birthday. Besides these privileged visitors, there were a number of officials whose rank was not high enough to allow them to enter the Great Hall of Ceremonies. These kneel and make the prostrations in the outer courts.

Their Majesties walked in a formal procession to the Great Audience Hall, where the Princes, Nobles, and high Officials allowed to enter the Precincts were set to pay their respects and congratulations to the Son of Heaven on the joyful occasion of his Birthday. In addition to these privileged visitors, there were several officials whose rank was not high enough to access the Great Hall of Ceremonies. These individuals kneel and bow in the outer courts.

The young Empress and Ladies of the Court did not follow Their Majesties to the Great Hall, but stopped at the Palace of the young Empress, to await there their turn for the official congratulations, which were not to be made until after those of the Princes and Nobles. The young Empress is a charming hostess, and her eunuchs and women handed us tea and cigarettes while we were waiting. She also had her dogs brought in for me to see. Her apartments 78 opened on a sunny court, full of flowering shrubs and fruit trees. Around the other three sides of the court were built the pavilions for the use of her attendants and ladies. We spent half an hour in her pavilion, waiting for the congratulations of the Princes and Nobles to be finished.

The young Empress and her Ladies of the Court didn't go with Their Majesties to the Great Hall but instead stayed at the young Empress's Palace to wait for their turn for the official congratulations, which were scheduled to happen after those of the Princes and Nobles. The young Empress is a delightful host, and her eunuchs and ladies served us tea and cigarettes while we waited. She also had her dogs brought in for me to see. Her rooms 78 overlooked a sunny courtyard filled with flowering shrubs and fruit trees. On the other three sides of the courtyard were pavilions for her attendants and ladies. We spent half an hour in her pavilion waiting for the Princes' and Nobles' congratulations to wrap up.

The Emperor, for these official congratulations, was seated upon the Dynastic Throne, erect and stiff as an archaic figure; no longer the shy boy, but the Monarch clothed in all his power, and, for to-day, alone upon his great ancestral Throne. He was attended by his Master of Ceremonies, gorgeously attired, who stood in the rigid attitude prescribed for this ceremony.

The Emperor, for these official congratulations, was seated on the Dynastic Throne, straight and stiff like an ancient statue; no longer the shy boy, but the Monarch dressed in all his power, and, for today, alone on his grand ancestral Throne. He was accompanied by his Master of Ceremonies, dressed in extravagant attire, who stood in the strict posture required for this ceremony.

Each splendidly garbed Prince and Noble knelt and made the prostration prescribed by the Book of Rites, and each presented His Majesty with a jade emblem, called by the Chinese “ruyie,”[3] erroneously supposed to be a scepter by most foreigners; but the “ruyie” is simply an emblem of Good Luck, and may be presented on festive occasions to any one whom the givers wish to honor, and is not an emblem of Imperial authority. The Emperor held each of these “ruyie” in his hands for a few seconds after their presentation, bowed profoundly to the kneeling Prince, and then handed the emblem to an attendant eunuch, who placed it on a Dragon table at the left of the Emperor. When the Princes and Nobles had congratulated His Majesty and left the Throne-room, the young Empress and secondary wife, followed by the Princesses and Ladies, went in to make their official congratulations. The greeting in Her Majesty’s 79 Throne-room in the morning had been but a friendly salutation, without any official signification. The young Empress knelt and made her bow first and presented—as did each of the Ladies—a “ruyie.” She made the same official salutation as did the others, but her “ruyie” was of a much richer style than those presented by the other Ladies.

Each splendidly dressed Prince and Noble knelt and performed the bowing gesture outlined in the Book of Rites, each presenting His Majesty with a jade emblem known in Chinese as “ruyie,”[3] which most foreigners mistakenly believe to be a scepter; however, the “ruyie” is actually just a symbol of Good Luck, given on festive occasions to anyone the giver wishes to honor, not a symbol of Imperial authority. The Emperor held each “ruyie” in his hands for a few seconds after receiving it, bowed deeply to the kneeling Prince, and then handed the emblem to an attendant eunuch, who placed it on a Dragon table to the Emperor's left. After the Princes and Nobles congratulated His Majesty and exited the Throne-room, the young Empress and secondary wife, followed by the Princesses and Ladies, entered to offer their official congratulations. The greeting in Her Majesty’s 79 Throne-room that morning was a simple friendly greeting, without any official meaning. The young Empress knelt and bowed first, presenting a “ruyie,” just like the other Ladies. She made the same formal greeting as the others, but her “ruyie” was of a much richer style than those presented by the other Ladies.

After the ceremony of formal congratulations was over, Her Majesty, the Emperor, and Empress, followed by the Ladies and attendants, went in state to the Theater, with the same ceremonial and pomp with which they had gone into the Hall of Ceremonies. The Empress Dowager, who was always the most gorgeously attired person at Court, was, on His Majesty’s Birthday, dressed with an extreme simplicity that amounted almost to plainness, and she wore no jewels. This plainness of attire was not an accident, but had been arranged with her usual forethought. She wished the Emperor and Empress to be the central figures of this day’s festivities, and did not wish to vie with the Empress even in her attire.

After the formal congratulations ceremony ended, Her Majesty, the Emperor, and Empress, along with the ladies and attendants, made their way to the Theater with the same grandeur and ceremony as when they entered the Hall of Ceremonies. The Empress Dowager, always the most elegantly dressed person at Court, chose to wear an incredibly simple outfit on His Majesty’s Birthday that was almost plain, and she had no jewelry on. This choice of simplicity wasn’t random; it was planned with her usual thoughtfulness. She wanted the Emperor and Empress to be the main focus of the day's celebrations and didn’t want to compete with the Empress, even in terms of her clothing.

The Princes and Nobles, who had come to the Palace for the official congratulations, were invited to the theatrical performance. They occupied the boxes that ran at right angles to the Imperial loge, which I have already described as forming the other two sides of the court of the Theater. A huge screen of painted silk, twelve feet high, was stretched from the last of the boxes occupied by the Princes to the stage—allowing the latter to be perfectly seen by the occupants of the boxes, but cutting off their view of the Imperial loge, whence Their Majesties, the Empress, 80 and Ladies viewed the play. These invited guests are thus neither seen by the Imperial party, nor can they see the latter.

The princes and nobles who came to the palace for the official congratulations were invited to the theater performance. They took their seats in the boxes that were perpendicular to the imperial loge, which I've already mentioned as making up the other two sides of the theater's courtyard. A large silk screen, twelve feet high, was stretched from the last box occupied by the princes to the stage—allowing those in the boxes to see the stage perfectly while blocking their view of the imperial loge, where Their Majesties, the Empress, 80 and the ladies were watching the play. As a result, these invited guests could neither see the imperial party nor be seen by them.

When Their Majesties and the Empress were seated in their loge, the principal actors came to the front of the stage, knelt, and “kow-towed” to the Imperial box. Then the play began. There was first a noisy burst of weird music, then the chief actor recited a laudatory, congratulatory poem in honor of the Birthday of the Emperor, wishing His Majesty “ten thousand years” of happiness and all the blessings possible. The poem was intoned like a chant by the actor, dressed in the gorgeous historic costume of an Imperial Herald of the time of Kublai Kahn. This poem was most impressive. One of the verses ran thus:

When Their Majesties and the Empress were seated in their box, the main actors came to the front of the stage, knelt down, and bowed deeply to the Imperial box. Then the play started. There was a loud burst of unusual music, and then the lead actor recited a celebratory poem honoring the Emperor's Birthday, wishing His Majesty "ten thousand years" of happiness and all the possible blessings. The poem was delivered like a chant by the actor, who was dressed in the magnificent historical costume of an Imperial Herald from the time of Kublai Khan. The poem was very impressive. One of the verses went like this:

“The vast merits of His Imperial Majesty’s August Ancestors have been handed down to Him from generation to generation.

“The great achievements of His Imperial Majesty's esteemed ancestors have been passed down to Him from generation to generation."

“To the wisdom of His whole Dynasty we owe it, that we have lived in happiness,

“To the wisdom of His entire Dynasty, we owe our happiness.

“Ever ready to comply with the lofty teaching of our Rulers, leading us unto Good....”

“Always ready to follow the noble teachings of our Leaders, guiding us towards Good....”

The poem went on to recite His Majesty’s merits as a son, his respect for his August Mother, his filial piety, and ended with a wish that Great China might flourish and prosper—grow strong outwardly and inwardly, through the blessings of his reign and his desire for Progress.

The poem continued to praise His Majesty for being a great son, showing respect for his esteemed Mother, his devotion to family, and concluded with a hope that Great China would thrive and prosper—becoming strong both externally and internally, thanks to his reign and his commitment to Progress.

After this poem had been intoned by the chief actor, with the whole company of players grouped around on the lower, as well as on the two superposed 81 stages, all in splendid historic costumes, there was another noisy clash of weird music and the play itself began. The Chinese theater, which goes on from morning to night with a series of plays, generally begins with a short one, a curtain-raiser of a quarter to half an hour’s length. To-day it began at once, after the poem was intoned, with a great historic drama. The exploits and high deeds of former Emperors were shown, and the actors were magnificently costumed in superb historic gowns which had been handed down from antiquity and were absolutely authentic.

After the chief actor recited the poem, with the entire cast gathered around on the lower stage and the two elevated stages, all dressed in stunning historic costumes, there was another loud burst of unusual music, and the play began. The Chinese theater, which runs from morning till night with a lineup of performances, usually kicks off with a short play, a curtain-raiser lasting about a quarter to half an hour. Today, it jumped straight into a grand historical drama right after the poem was recited. The impressive stories and great deeds of past Emperors were portrayed, and the actors wore magnificent costumes that were authentic historic gowns passed down from ancient times.

At half-past eleven, with the Theater still in full swing, the eunuchs brought out tables of sweetmeats on the verandah of the Imperial loge, and set them before the young Empress and the Princesses and Ladies, and we were served to refreshments. Sweets and fruits in China are served between the regular meals. The sweetmeats to-day were “birthday food,” and were all inscribed with some character meaning “Longevity,” “Good Luck,” “Happiness,” “Peace,” etc. There were pyramids of the delicious crystallized fruits which the Chinese excel in making; macédoines of queer fruits, nut pastes, almond creams, and all the fresh fruits in season. With this preliminary repast were served, also, some delicious Chinese wines.

At 11:30, while the theater was still going strong, the eunuchs brought out tables of treats on the balcony of the Imperial loge and set them in front of the young Empress, the Princesses, and the Ladies, and we were served refreshments. In China, sweets and fruits are served between regular meals. Today’s treats were “birthday food,” each inscribed with characters meaning “Longevity,” “Good Luck,” “Happiness,” “Peace,” and so on. There were pyramids of the delicious crystallized fruits that the Chinese are known for; mixes of unusual fruits, nut pastes, almond creams, and all the fresh seasonal fruits. Along with this initial spread, some delicious Chinese wines were also served.

Soon after the repast of sweetmeats was finished, we were served in the court of the Theater this time to the regular meal. It was an immense table to which we sat down on the Emperor’s Birthday. There were so many Princesses, Duchesses, and Ladies of high degree from a distance, that our usual number 82 was more than quadrupled. The repast was a joyous one. The Chinese are very witty and gay, and though I could not understand all the scintillations of wit, their gaiety was contagious! Each gave me special delicacies that she liked, to try, and each seemed to vie with the other in endeavoring to make the “stranger” feel at ease. Some of the Ladies drank champagne in my honor, and held up their glasses toward me as they had seen the foreigners do. When the elders had finished eating, the young people sat down. These were the children of the Princesses and Nobles who had been invited to join their parents for these festivities at the Palace. No girl or boy under sixteen is allowed to sit down with their elders to a ceremonious dinner at the Palace.

Soon after the dessert was done, we were served the regular meal in the theater courtyard this time. We sat down at a massive table for the Emperor's Birthday. There were so many princesses, duchesses, and ladies of high status from afar that our usual number more than quadrupled. The meal was a lively affair. The Chinese are very witty and cheerful, and even though I couldn’t catch all the clever remarks, their joy was infectious! Each of them offered me special delicacies they enjoyed, and they all seemed to compete to make the "stranger" feel comfortable. Some of the ladies toasted with champagne in my honor, raising their glasses toward me as they had seen foreigners do. After the elders finished eating, the younger guests sat down. These were the children of the princesses and nobles who had been invited to celebrate with their parents at the palace. No girl or boy under sixteen is allowed to join their elders at a formal dinner at the palace.

Soon after we had finished our gay luncheon in the court of the Theater the Ladies retired within their loge, next to that of Their Majesties, and the screen which hid the visiting Princes and Nobles from the Imperial party was removed by the attendant eunuchs. When it was taken away, there sat, Turkish fashion, the great Princes and high Nobles in their splendid Court dress. Those of the highest ranks occupied the boxes nearest the Imperial party. The Princesses pointed out to me, from their box, their brothers and kinsmen and others whom they recognized; but we saw without being seen, and were only looking from behind the scenes.

Soon after we finished our lively lunch in the courtyard of the Theater, the Ladies went back to their box, right next to that of Their Majesties, and the attendant eunuchs removed the screen that separated the visiting Princes and Nobles from the Imperial party. Once the screen was taken away, the great Princes and high Nobles sat Turkish-style in their magnificent Court attire. Those of the highest ranks occupied the boxes closest to the Imperial party. The Princesses pointed out their brothers, relatives, and others they recognized from their box; however, we were watching without being seen, only peeking from behind the scenes.

The eunuchs then handed around refreshments to the Princes and gentlemen, sweetmeats and fruits, such as we had partaken of before our luncheon. Then there were some huge steaming silver caldrons 83 brought into the court, and from these caldrons the eunuchs ladled into bowls some sort of white drink. As we had had nothing of this kind at our repast, I was curious to know what it might be. I knew it could not be wine, for that is served only in tiny cups, and this was served in the ordinary-sized eating-bowls. I was much surprised to learn that this drink was simply hot milk, flavored with almonds, and slightly sweetened, a drink of which the Manchus are very fond, and which is a special mark of Imperial favor, given only on great occasions. The gentlemen raised their bowls to their lips with both hands and drank it off with great ceremony, as if it were a sacred beverage, and seemed, in drinking it thus, to pledge the Emperor’s Health and Happiness.

The eunuchs then passed around treats to the princes and gentlemen, offering sweets and fruits that we had enjoyed before lunch. Then some large, steaming silver pots were brought into the courtyard, and from these pots, the eunuchs ladled a white drink into bowls. Since we hadn’t had anything like this during our meal, I was curious about what it could be. I knew it couldn’t be wine, as that’s served only in small cups, and this was in regular-sized bowls. I was surprised to find out that this drink was just hot milk, flavored with almonds and lightly sweetened, a drink that the Manchus particularly enjoy and that is reserved for special occasions as a sign of Imperial favor. The gentlemen raised their bowls to their lips with both hands and drank it with great ceremony, as if it were a sacred beverage, seemingly toasting to the Emperor’s Health and Happiness. 83

After the Princes had partaken of these refreshments, and while some eunuchs were removing the caldrons and dishes, another army of eunuchs came in, in pairs, each pair carrying between them trays of Imperial yellow, decorated with the red characters for Longevity. These trays contained presents from the Emperor to each of the invited guests, for His Majesty gives as well as receives presents on his Birthday! There was no difference made in the presents given, each tray being the exact counterpart of every other. Each contained a pair of porcelain vases from the Imperial Potteries, a bronze Incense-burner, a scroll with a quotation from the classics or an aphorism of Confucius written thereon. The scrolls were inclosed in silken covers, tied with the Imperial colors. There was also a jade “ruyie” in each tray, such as had been handed the Emperor at the morning ceremony, 84 and an Archer’s ring. After the contents of the trays had been delivered to each gentleman present, and the empty trays borne away by the Palace eunuchs, the dividing screen was again placed between the visiting Princes and Their Majesties, and the young Empress and Ladies went out of their loge to the verandah once more, and the theatrical performance again went on. In fact, it had been going on throughout our luncheon and the subsequent entertainment of the Princes, but we had paid no attention to it.

After the Princes had enjoyed these refreshments, and while some eunuchs were clearing away the pots and dishes, another group of eunuchs entered in pairs, each pair holding trays of Imperial yellow, decorated with the red characters for Longevity. These trays held gifts from the Emperor for each of the invited guests, because His Majesty both gives and receives gifts on his Birthday! There was no distinction in the gifts, as each tray was identical to the others. Each included a pair of porcelain vases from the Imperial Potteries, a bronze incense burner, and a scroll featuring a quote from the classics or an aphorism of Confucius. The scrolls were enclosed in silk covers, tied with the Imperial colors. There was also a jade “ruyie” in each tray, just like the one handed to the Emperor during the morning ceremony, 84 and an archer's ring. After the trays' contents were delivered to each gentleman present, and the empty trays were taken away by the Palace eunuchs, the dividing screen was placed back between the visiting Princes and Their Majesties. The young Empress and Ladies stepped out of their loge onto the verandah once again, and the theatrical performance continued. In fact, it had been going on throughout our lunch and the subsequent entertainment for the Princes, but we hadn’t paid any attention to it.

At four o’clock there was the grand “finale.” The three superposed stages were occupied by all the gorgeously attired actors, and another Hymn of praise to the Emperor was intoned. He was extolled as the Son of Heaven and representative on earth of Buddha, and other extravagant wishes for “ten thousand years” of happiness were made. When this Hymn was finished, the floats, which we had seen the day before behind the scenes, came out in procession. These floats represented mythical animals, Buddhas, fairies, and personifications of the higher attributes. There were gigantic fruits which opened, disclosing figures representing eternal beauty, perfect happiness, and serene old age. Prominent among the gigantic fruits was the peach, the emblem of Longevity. Last of all, in this curious procession, came the Imperial Dragon, of huge proportions. Its contortions, as it struggled for the Flaming Pearl, emblematic of the unattainable, were most curious. All these figures made their obeisances to Their Majesties and the Empress. They were accompanied by splendidly clothed 85 warriors, heralds, princes, and many gorgeously attired attendants, bearing banners and escutcheons. After the procession had made the tour several times, the dragon stopped with his huge head in the middle of the stage, made an obeisance to His Majesty, then raised it with a mighty roar and spouted forth—a copious shower of fresh spring water, which sprinkled the whole flower-filled court! The Empress and Princesses were all in the secret and knew what was coming, but they kept it from me, and much enjoyed my start of surprise as some of the spray fell upon me, as I had advanced to the very edge of the verandah in order to miss nothing.

At four o’clock, the big “finale” began. All the beautifully dressed actors filled the three stacked stages, and they sang another hymn praising the Emperor. He was celebrated as the Son of Heaven and the earthly representative of Buddha, along with other extravagant hopes for “ten thousand years” of happiness. When the hymn ended, the floats we had seen the day before behind the scenes came out in a parade. These floats depicted mythical animals, Buddhas, fairies, and representations of higher virtues. There were enormous fruits that opened up to reveal figures symbolizing eternal beauty, perfect happiness, and peaceful old age. The peach, a symbol of Longevity, stood out among the giant fruits. Last of all, in this strange parade, came the massive Imperial Dragon. Its movements, as it sought the Flaming Pearl, which symbolizes the unattainable, were fascinating. All these figures bowed to Their Majesties and the Empress. They were accompanied by splendidly dressed warriors, heralds, princes, and many gorgeously dressed attendants carrying banners and shields. After the procession made several rounds, the dragon paused with its massive head in the center of the stage, bowed to His Majesty, then lifted its head with a powerful roar and sprayed a large shower of fresh spring water, drenching the entire flower-filled courtyard! The Empress and the Princesses were all in on the surprise and knew what would happen, but they kept it from me, enjoying my shocked reaction as some of the spray hit me since I had moved to the very edge of the verandah to catch every moment.

When all was finished, the screen was again removed and the great glass doors of the Imperial loge were thrown open, so that Her Majesty and the Emperor could be seen. The visiting Princes and Nobles came forward from their places and knelt in a body, though still observing the laws of precedence as to their ranks. They knelt three times, and bowed their heads to the ground nine times to thank Their Majesties for the entertainment they had received. To receive these prostrations from the Princes, the Emperor and Empress Dowager assumed their Buddha-like poses and acknowledged the genuflexions by a formal inclination of their heads. When the Princes had retired, the actors, clothed in their usual garments, came to the front of the stage and knelt and “kow-towed,” but Their Majesties did not return this salutation.

When everything was done, the screen was taken away again, and the grand glass doors of the Imperial box were opened wide so that Her Majesty and the Emperor could be seen. The visiting Princes and Nobles came forward from their seats and knelt as a group while still following the protocol according to their ranks. They knelt three times and bowed their heads to the ground nine times to thank Their Majesties for the entertainment they received. To acknowledge the bowing from the Princes, the Emperor and Empress Dowager took on their Buddha-like poses and formally nodded their heads in response. After the Princes left, the actors, dressed in their usual costumes, came to the front of the stage, knelt, and “kow-towed,” but Their Majesties did not return this gesture.

When the Princes and players had left and the Imperial party was alone, cushions were brought into 86 the middle of the court, the Emperor and Empress and secondary wife knelt thereon, while their “Great Ancestress,” the Empress Dowager, preceded by acolytes, swinging golden incense-burners which gave forth azure clouds of perfumed smoke, came down the steps to the weird accompaniment of the flutes and cymbals playing the “Imperial Hymn.” The Emperor and Empress knelt to do Her Majesty homage, as the greatest living member of their Ancestors. When she reached them, they arose and followed her, and the three moved along in stately procession to the slow beating of the cymbals, followed by the Princesses and Ladies and all the attendant eunuchs. The subtle perfume of the incense, the stately rhythm, the splendid costumes, the flashing jewels and brilliant colors, made a magnificent picture never to be forgotten. The Imperial procession moved through several sunlit courts until it finally came to the entrance of the Sacred Hall, containing the Ancestral tablets; here the Empress Dowager stopped at the threshold until His Majesty and the young Empress had passed within, to complete the ceremonies of the day by worshiping and kneeling together before the tablets of their Ancestors. The music ceased. The ceremony was finished. His Majesty the Emperor Kwang-Hsu had accomplished another year.

When the princes and performers left and the imperial party was alone, cushions were brought into 86 the center of the court. The Emperor, Empress, and secondary wife knelt on them, while their “Great Ancestress,” the Empress Dowager, was preceded by attendants swinging golden incense-burners that released fragrant clouds of smoke. She descended the steps to the haunting sounds of flutes and cymbals playing the “Imperial Hymn.” The Emperor and Empress bowed to pay their respects to Her Majesty, the highest living representative of their ancestors. When she reached them, they stood up and followed her in a grand procession to the slow rhythm of the cymbals, followed by the princesses, ladies, and all the attending eunuchs. The delicate scent of the incense, the dignified rhythm, the lavish costumes, the sparkling jewels, and vibrant colors created an unforgettable scene. The imperial procession moved through several sunlit courtyards until it finally arrived at the entrance of the Sacred Hall, which housed the ancestral tablets. Here, the Empress Dowager paused at the threshold until His Majesty and the young Empress entered to complete the day’s ceremonies by worshiping and kneeling before their ancestors' tablets. The music halted. The ceremony concluded. His Majesty Emperor Kwang-Hsu had completed another year.

CHAPTER X Beijing—The Sea Palace

The Autumnal Sacrifices to his Ancestors and His Majesty’s consequent three days’ abstinence, to prepare for them, put a stop to further festivities after the Birthday, which would have otherwise continued for several days longer. The day after the Birthday was a quiet one at the Palace. Her Majesty was feeling tired and did not care to pose, after the Audience in the morning. The visiting Princesses and Ladies were preparing to leave the Palace; the eunuchs and Her Majesty’s maids were bustling around, preparing for the moving of the Court to Peking, for Her Majesty and the Court, as well as the Emperor, were to go into one of the City Palaces the following day. Her Majesty ordered luncheon to be served in one of the beautiful summer-houses in the gardens, about a mile from the Palace, for she said a change would be good for all.

The Autumn Sacrifices to his Ancestors and His Majesty’s subsequent three days of fasting to prepare for them interrupted any further celebrations after the Birthday, which would have otherwise gone on for several more days. The day after the Birthday was quiet at the Palace. Her Majesty was feeling tired and didn't want to pose after the morning Audience. The visiting Princesses and Ladies were getting ready to leave the Palace; the eunuchs and Her Majesty’s maids were rushing around, preparing for the Court's move to Peking, as Her Majesty, the Court, and the Emperor were set to go to one of the City Palaces the next day. Her Majesty ordered lunch to be served in one of the lovely summer-houses in the gardens, about a mile from the Palace, saying a change would be good for everyone.

This summer-house, or rather Palace, situated on a hill overlooking the lake, was one of Her Majesty’s favorite resorts. She often went to it, after a tiring Audience, and spent the rest of the day there, lunching and dining, and even taking her siesta there. Whenever she went to any of these Palaces inside the 88 inclosure, she always invited all the Ladies of the Court to accompany her. It made a change in the monotony of their lives. This Palace was very luxuriously fitted up, and contained a splendid library, with thousands of volumes of the classics and Her Majesty’s favorite authors. The view from its broad verandahs and fair marble terraces was one of the finest, even of the many beautiful ones, in the grounds. We lunched on the wide verandah and drank in the beauty of the scene. No wonder Her Majesty loved this spot! Beneath lay the beautiful grounds of the Summer Palace, with its calm lake and winding streams. On an eminence beyond, the graceful seven-storied pagoda that forms so characteristic a feature in all the views of the Summer Palace, proudly reared its stately height. On the right lay the temple-crowned hills, the upturned roofs of their buildings nestling on their slopes like a flight of gigantic gaily-hued birds, with wings outspread. In the distance, beyond a soft gray undulating landscape, with fields of brilliant green here and there, lay Peking, with its walls and towers, enveloped in a golden haze.

This summer house, or rather palace, sitting on a hill overlooking the lake, was one of Her Majesty’s favorite getaways. She often visited after a tiring audience, spending the rest of the day there, having lunch and dinner, and even taking her nap there. Whenever she went to any of these palaces inside the 88 enclosure, she always invited all the ladies of the court to join her. It broke the monotony of their lives. This palace was very luxuriously decorated and had a splendid library filled with thousands of classic volumes and Her Majesty’s favorite authors. The view from its wide verandas and beautiful marble terraces was one of the best, even among the many lovely ones in the grounds. We had lunch on the spacious verandah, taking in the beauty of the scene. No wonder Her Majesty loved this place! Below were the stunning grounds of the Summer Palace, with its serene lake and meandering streams. On a hill nearby, the elegant seven-story pagoda, a striking feature in all views of the Summer Palace, proudly rose to its impressive height. To the right were the temple-topped hills, with the rooftops of their buildings nestled on the slopes like a flock of giant, brightly colored birds with their wings spread wide. In the distance, beyond a soft gray rolling landscape, with patches of vibrant green fields scattered throughout, lay Peking, with its walls and towers, wrapped in a golden haze.

AT THE AMERICAN LEGATION, PEKING

AT THE U.S. EMBASSY, BEIJING

After luncheon and the siesta, Her Majesty called me up and said she was to go into Peking on the morrow, and asked whether I wished the portrait to be taken in for the three days the Court was to remain in the City. She said she would be much occupied with ceremonies and sacrifices, and there would be but little time for painting, but if I wished to work she might be able to give me a short sitting! I told her I did not care to have the portrait taken 89 into the City, for I knew it would not be possible to get a room with the same light as that in which I had begun the picture. When she found I did not care to paint in Peking, she suggested that I go to the United States Legation and spend the time of the Court’s sojourn at the Sea Palace. It had been more than two weeks since I had seen Mrs. Conger, or been in the Legation quarter, and I was delighted at Her Majesty’s kind forethought in allowing me to spend these days at the Legation. She, however, suggested that, as I had not seen the Sea Palace, where the Court was to go, I might enjoy coming there for the day—and spending some of the time in seeing the Palace and grounds. She knew how I enjoyed seeing these beautiful Palaces, and this was another proof of her consideration. She said she would be much occupied with the ceremonies, but that she would map out a nice day for me, and would herself take me for a walk! She added, “This will give you a chance to study me, so your time will not be entirely spent in vain.” She said we would resume the portrait on the Court’s return to the Summer Palace.

After lunch and a nap, Her Majesty summoned me and said she would be going to Peking the next day. She asked if I wanted to take the portrait for the three days the Court would be in the city. She mentioned she would be busy with ceremonies and rituals and wouldn’t have much time for painting, but if I wanted to work, she might be able to give me a short sitting! I told her I didn't want to take the portrait into the city because I knew it wouldn’t be possible to find a room with the same light as where I had started the painting. When she realized I wasn't keen on painting in Peking, she suggested I go to the United States Legation and spend the time while the Court was at the Sea Palace. It had been more than two weeks since I’d seen Mrs. Conger or been in the Legation area, and I was thrilled by Her Majesty's thoughtful suggestion to let me spend those days at the Legation. However, she pointed out that since I hadn’t seen the Sea Palace where the Court would be, I might enjoy going there for the day and exploring the Palace and grounds. She knew how much I loved seeing these beautiful Palaces, and this was another sign of her kindness. She said she would be busy with the ceremonies but would plan a nice day for me and would personally take me for a walk! She added, “This will give you a chance to observe me, so your time won’t be entirely wasted.” She said we would continue the portrait when the Court returned to the Summer Palace. 89

After our return to her Throne-room, and when we had finished dinner, she told me I had better go into the room where the portrait and my materials were kept, when I was not working on it, and said I had better overlook its being put away myself. She followed me into the room, and herself aided and directed the arrangement of things. She ordered the “sacred picture” (for this is what the Chinese call a likeness of a reigning Emperor or Empress) to be attached to the wall with yellow cords and covered with a transparent 90 yellow silk, box-like screen, which had been especially made to protect it from dust. The portrait was treated, from its very beginning, as an almost sacred object, with the respect a reverent officiant accords the Holy Vessels of the Church. Even my painting materials seemed to be invested with a sort of semi-sacred quality. When Her Majesty felt fatigued, and indicated that the sittings were finished, my brushes and palette were taken by the eunuch from my hands, the portrait removed from the easel and reverently consigned to the room that had been set aside for it.

After we got back to her throne room and finished dinner, she suggested that I go into the room where the portrait and my materials were kept when I wasn't working on it, saying I should take care of putting it away myself. She followed me into the room and helped arrange everything. She had the “sacred picture” (which is what the Chinese call a likeness of a reigning Emperor or Empress) attached to the wall with yellow cords and covered with a transparent yellow silk screen, specially made to protect it from dust. From the very beginning, the portrait was treated like a sacred object, with the respect that a reverent officiant gives to the Holy Vessels of the Church. Even my painting materials seemed to have a sort of semi-sacred quality. When Her Majesty felt tired and indicated that the sittings were over, a eunuch took my brushes and palette from my hands, the portrait was removed from the easel, and it was reverently placed in the room that had been set aside for it.

The next morning early, I preceded the Court into Peking and went directly to the United States Legation, where I was warmly welcomed by my kind friends, Mr. and Mrs. Conger. The United States Legation occupied, at this time, a Chinese temple near the “Water Gate.” This building had been given to the United States Government by the Chinese after the Boxer rebellion, and was occupied temporarily by the Minister of the United States during the construction of the new Legation on Legation Street. The temple had been transformed into a comfortable American dwelling-place—its Chinese individuality having been preserved wherever possible, consistent with comfort. The shaded court, filled with beautiful, growing flowers (many of them gifts from the Empress Dowager to Mrs. Conger), was a charming spot. While distinctly American as to its artistic comfort and furniture, the interior construction and decoration of the drawing-room were purely Chinese, which gave a touch of Oriental 91 “couleur locale” to this pleasant haven of American hospitality, where Mr. and Mrs. Conger dispensed their kindly favors.

The next morning, I headed to Peking before the Court and went straight to the United States Legation, where my wonderful friends, Mr. and Mrs. Conger, gave me a warm welcome. At that time, the United States Legation was located in a Chinese temple near the “Water Gate.” This building had been offered to the United States Government by the Chinese after the Boxer Rebellion and was temporarily home to the Minister of the United States while the new Legation was being built on Legation Street. The temple had been converted into a cozy American residence, maintaining its Chinese character as much as possible while ensuring comfort. The shaded courtyard, filled with beautiful, blooming flowers (many gifted from the Empress Dowager to Mrs. Conger), was a delightful place. While the artistic comfort and furniture were distinctly American, the drawing-room's interior design and decoration were purely Chinese, adding a touch of Oriental flair to this lovely space of American hospitality, where Mr. and Mrs. Conger graciously shared their kindness. 91

Mrs. Conger, by her own individual initiative, has done much to bring about a friendly social feeling between the Chinese and foreign ladies. It was she who first thought of entertaining the Princesses and Ladies of the Court in her own home; and the United States Legation was the first of the Legations in Peking to issue an invitation to the Ladies of the Court, or to entertain them. It is the first Legation to entertain other Chinese ladies, wives of officials or of the gentry. Several other Legations have since entertained the Ladies of the Court, but in doing so they were only following Mrs. Conger’s initiative. While doing so much to bring about friendly social relations with the Chinese, Mr. and Mrs. Conger receive all Americans, regardless of their importance or social position, with a kind cordiality. I was delighted to be in their charming family circle once more. I found my room at the Legation, with its sweet touches of homeliness, a delightful haven, and my visits to the Legation seemed always like going home.

Mrs. Conger, taking the initiative on her own, has done a lot to create a friendly social atmosphere between Chinese and foreign women. She was the first to invite the Princesses and Ladies of the Court to her home, and the United States Legation was the first in Peking to extend an invitation to the Ladies of the Court or host them. It's also the first Legation to host other Chinese women, such as the wives of officials and gentry. Several other Legations have since followed suit by entertaining the Ladies of the Court, but they were simply following Mrs. Conger's lead. While working hard to foster friendly social relations with the Chinese, Mr. and Mrs. Conger welcome all Americans, regardless of their prominence or social standing, with warm hospitality. I was thrilled to be part of their lovely family circle again. I found my room at the Legation, with its charming touches of home, to be a wonderful sanctuary, and my visits there always felt like coming home.

The next morning at seven, a green official chair with its bearers came to take me to the Sea Palace. I was first carried to the Hsien-Liang-Hsu, the “Temple of the loyal and virtuous,” where Li-Hung-Chang formerly had his home in Peking, and a part of which the Yu-Kengs had arranged for their home after their return from their mission at Paris, their own semi-foreign house having been destroyed by the Boxers. 92 At the Hsien-Liang-Hsu I was joined by the Ladies Yu-Keng, and we continued on to the Sea Palace. Our chairs, with their bearers, were preceded and followed by mounted attendants.

The next morning at seven, a green official chair arrived with its bearers to take me to the Sea Palace. I was first carried to the Hsien-Liang-Hsu, the “Temple of the Loyal and Virtuous,” where Li-Hung-Chang used to live in Peking, and part of which the Yu-Keng family set up for their home after returning from their mission in Paris, since their own semi-foreign house had been destroyed by the Boxers. 92 At the Hsien-Liang-Hsu, I met the Ladies Yu-Keng, and we headed to the Sea Palace together. Our chairs, along with their bearers, were preceded and followed by mounted attendants.

The Sea Palace is a comparatively new Palace, most of it having been built within the last fifty years. Our chairs were met at the northern entrance by the same eunuchs who had been set aside for our service at the Summer Palace. They led us to the boats in waiting to carry us across the lake, to the buildings occupied by Her Majesty and the Court. These boats were of the houseboat variety, with an inclosed cabin forming the center, and a platform running all around, on which the rowers walked up and down propelling it. The interior was carpeted, with a cushioned lounge, tea-tables, and chairs. The eunuchs and attendants sat outside on the prow. It takes twenty minutes to row across the lake in one of these boats, but the movement is delightful. When we reached the other side, we landed and went through several courts to that of one of Her Majesty’s private chapels. She, herself, had just been making an offering here, and was coming out, preceded by acolytes swinging incense-burners, the musicians playing the “Imperial Hymn.” When she saw us, Her Majesty called us to her side, asked if I had had a good trip into Peking, and how Mrs. Conger was. She then ordered the eunuchs to show us our apartments. We were led through corridors and courts to a charming pavilion which was to be our resting-place while at the Sea Palace. It had exquisitely and elaborately carved woodwork arches with heavy satin curtains, which 93 divided it into five rooms. After we had rested a few moments here, we returned to the Throne-room. Her Majesty told me she had arranged for me to go out in one of the boats, and that I was to be shown all that I cared to see, or at least as much as I could see in that day. A eunuch standing near her held a number of strips of embroidery in his hand. They were embroidered head-dresses, which are placed upon the heads of the Buddhas during the great ceremonies in the Palace temples. She explained their use to me and then dismissed us, and we went out to the landing-place on the lake.

The Sea Palace is a relatively new palace, most of it built within the last fifty years. Our chairs were met at the northern entrance by the same eunuchs who had been assigned to us at the Summer Palace. They led us to the waiting boats that would take us across the lake to the buildings where Her Majesty and the Court were located. These boats were houseboat-style, featuring an enclosed cabin in the center and a platform surrounding it, where the rowers walked back and forth to propel it. The interior was carpeted, with a cushioned lounge, tea tables, and chairs. The eunuchs and attendants sat outside on the front. It takes about twenty minutes to row across the lake in one of these boats, but the ride is delightful. When we arrived on the other side, we disembarked and went through several courtyards to one of Her Majesty’s private chapels. She had just made an offering there and was coming out, preceded by acolytes swinging incense burners, with musicians playing the “Imperial Hymn.” When she saw us, Her Majesty called us over, asked if I had a good trip to Peking, and how Mrs. Conger was. She then instructed the eunuchs to show us to our apartments. We were guided through corridors and courtyards to a lovely pavilion that would be our resting place while at the Sea Palace. It featured beautifully and intricately carved wooden arches with heavy satin curtains, dividing it into five rooms. After resting for a few moments, we returned to the Throne Room. Her Majesty informed me that she had arranged for me to take a ride in one of the boats and that I would be shown everything I wanted to see, or at least as much as I could see in that day. A eunuch standing nearby held several strips of embroidery in his hand. They were embroidered head-dresses that are placed on the heads of the Buddhas during the major ceremonies in the Palace temples. She explained their use to me and then dismissed us, and we went out to the landing by the lake. 93

A number of boats lay at the foot of the steps—among them a charming open barge with blue silken awnings. As I had not been in a boat of this kind before, and as I was told to choose, I selected it for our row; and we started off, followed by several other boats carrying eunuchs and refreshments, with the necessary utensils for serving them. Our head eunuch, one of the six highest in the Palace, who had been appointed to look after me and the “sacred picture,” was very intelligent, an enlightened lover of Chinese art, and a great collector of old Chinese paintings and curios. He had been, in his youth, one of Her Majesty’s favorite players, was said to have great dramatic talent, and, when he was younger, had a fine voice for singing. Memory is among the most esteemed of the intellectual faculties by the Chinese and reaches a high state of cultivation with them. Many of the eunuchs can repeat whole pages from the classics, and some are accomplished literati. This eunuch had a good speaking voice, and recited poems 94 and told stories in a charming way. As we were rowed along, he stood at the prow and recited verse after verse of classic lore and told stories of the heroic times. He intoned them like a recitative—the rhythm so perfectly observed, the intoning so musical, it was a pleasure to listen to him, though I could not understand.

A number of boats were docked at the bottom of the steps—among them a lovely open barge with blue silk awnings. Since I had never been in a boat like this before, and I was told to pick one, I chose it for our outing; we set off, followed by several other boats carrying eunuchs and snacks, along with the needed utensils to serve them. Our head eunuch, one of the six highest-ranking officials in the Palace who had been assigned to look after me and the “sacred picture,” was very clever, a knowledgeable admirer of Chinese art, and a great collector of antique Chinese paintings and curios. In his youth, he had been one of Her Majesty’s favorite performers and was known to have great dramatic talent; when he was younger, he also had a beautiful singing voice. Memory is highly valued in Chinese culture and is greatly cultivated by many. Many eunuchs can recite entire pages from the classics, and some are well-educated literati. This eunuch had a pleasant speaking voice and recited poems and stories in a captivating manner. As we were being rowed along, he stood at the front and recited verse after verse of classic tales and shared stories from heroic times. He intoned them like a recitative—with perfect rhythm and a musical tone, making it a pleasure to listen to him, even though I couldn’t understand. 94

I lay back among the cushions, as we glided softly along, past beautiful pavilions, with splendid trees overhanging the lake and lovely flowers growing wherever there was a place to plant them. The tall figure of the splendidly attired eunuch, standing in the prow, repeating, with rhythmic cadence, poems and stories, gave one the illusion and charm of the “Arabian Nights,” which I had fed upon in my childhood, and which I seemed to be living through to-day.

I leaned back on the cushions as we drifted gently along, past beautiful pavilions, with magnificent trees shading the lake and pretty flowers blooming wherever there was room to plant them. The tall figure of the elegantly dressed eunuch, standing at the front, reciting poems and stories in a rhythmic flow, created the illusion and magic of the “Arabian Nights,” which I had enjoyed in my childhood and felt like I was experiencing today.

We soon came to a tiny islet in the lake, with a sort of open temple built over a black marble tablet which bore an incised inscription. I asked to land and examine it, and San-Gunia, the eldest of Lady Yu-Keng’s daughters, a remarkably clever girl and well posted in Chinese literature, translated the characters. The inscription was a poem, a tribute to the Great Father who had graciously placed there this island, which “by night was bathed in the glory of the Moon and Sun-kissed by day, while the crystal waters of the lake formed a brilliant necklace on its breast.”

We soon arrived at a small island in the lake, featuring an open temple built over a black marble tablet with an engraved inscription. I asked to land and take a look at it, and San-Gunia, the oldest of Lady Yu-Keng’s daughters, a remarkably intelligent girl well-versed in Chinese literature, translated the characters for me. The inscription was a poem, paying tribute to the Great Father who had graciously created this island, which “at night was illuminated by the glory of the Moon and Sun-kissed by day, while the crystal waters of the lake formed a stunning necklace around it.”

Beyond the island I saw a temple. There was no landing-place, and the temple was under repair. The head eunuch, however, seeing how much I wished to go up, had the boat draw near and steps brought, up which we clambered, as best we could.

Beyond the island, I spotted a temple. There was no place to dock, and the temple was being renovated. However, the head eunuch, noticing how eager I was to go up, had the boat get closer and steps brought over, which we climbed as best we could.

95 This was one of the temples so ruthlessly destroyed and unnecessarily desecrated by the Allies during their occupation of Peking. We passed through the vegetable garden of the monks—all shorn of its glory, but where a few vegetables and flowers still grew—and we went on through a beautiful grove of arbor-vitæ, with centuries-old trees, planted in the form of a cross, and came into the court of the temple. Even in its dilapidated state, with the workmen still in it, it was beautiful, and before it was so injured it must have been a splendid example of Chinese temple architecture. The cells of the lama monks were now unoccupied, and there were no officiating priests. Workmen were repairing and regilding the Great Buddha, and most of the effigies of the saints and images of the personified attributes were standing in dejected rows in the corridors awaiting the completion of their niches and chapels. The interior, of splendid proportions, glowed in beautiful somber colors. The carved wood ceilings were in pendentive designs, recalling those I had seen in the Alhambra; but the painting, in primary colors, of this elaborately carved ceiling gave it a greater richness of coloring and lent to the interior a warmer, deeper harmony than the white Moorish designs. The chapels behind the high altar were separated from the main temple and from each other by beautifully carved wooden screens, with rich brocaded silk of brilliant green (the color of Buddha), stretched behind the open-work and showing through the interstices of the carving. These chapels are for the Sacred writings and for the vestments of the priests, and are also used for robing- and 96 retiring-rooms for the officiants. They correspond to the sacristies of the Catholic Churches in Europe.

95 This was one of the temples that the Allies brutally destroyed and unnecessarily desecrated during their time in Peking. We walked through the monks' vegetable garden—all stripped of its former glory, but where a few veggies and flowers still grew—and continued through a beautiful grove of arbor-vitae, with centuries-old trees planted in the shape of a cross, arriving at the temple courtyard. Even in its damaged condition, with workers still present, it was stunning, and before it was so harmed, it must have been a magnificent example of Chinese temple architecture. The monks' cells were now empty, and there were no priests performing rituals. Workers were repairing and regilding the Great Buddha, and most of the saint sculptures and personified attribute images stood in sad rows in the corridors, waiting for their niches and chapels to be completed. The interior, with its impressive proportions, glowed in lovely muted colors. The carved wooden ceilings featured pendentive designs, reminiscent of those I had seen in the Alhambra; but the painting in primary colors on this elaborately carved ceiling added greater richness and provided the interior with a warmer, deeper harmony than the white Moorish designs. The chapels behind the high altar were separated from the main temple and from each other by beautifully carved wooden screens, with rich brocaded silk in vibrant green (the color of Buddha) stretched behind the openwork, visible through the gaps in the carving. These chapels are designated for the Sacred writings and the priests' vestments, and they also serve as changing and retiring rooms for the officiants. They are similar to the sacristies found in Catholic Churches in Europe. 96

The space behind the altar was of apse-like form, and opened upon a semi-circular marble terrace, thirty feet high, with a balustrade of the conventionalized lotus design so dear to the Chinese architects. From this terrace we had a beautiful view of the Coal Hill, surmounted by the curious Dagoba, so well known in all views of the Imperial City, as well as of the belvedere that marks the spot where the last Emperor of the Mings committed suicide when he was conquered. At the two extremities of the terrace were charming octagonal summer-houses, where the priests could go for rest and contemplation, and, while murmuring their prayers, could feast their eyes upon a charming view. After a few moments on the terrace, enjoying the beautiful view, we passed through the cells of the monks, which were large and comfortable, and, finally, out again into the sun-flecked shade of the marble-paved court, where we sat under low-hanging boughs of a splendid elm, and the eunuchs brought out tables and served us with tea and refreshments.

The space behind the altar was shaped like an apse and opened onto a semi-circular marble terrace, thirty feet high, with a balustrade featuring the stylized lotus design beloved by Chinese architects. From this terrace, we had a stunning view of Coal Hill, topped by the iconic Dagoba, famous in all views of the Imperial City, as well as the lookout that marks the spot where the last Emperor of the Mings took his life after his defeat. At both ends of the terrace were charming octagonal summer houses where priests could relax and meditate, and while murmuring their prayers, they could enjoy the lovely view. After spending some time on the terrace, taking in the beautiful scenery, we moved through the monks’ cells, which were spacious and comfortable, and finally emerged again into the sun-dappled shade of the marble-paved courtyard, where we sat beneath the low-hanging branches of a magnificent elm, and the eunuchs brought out tables and served us tea and snacks.

Then we took the boats and were rowed on further, till we came beneath a steep battlemented wall, surmounted by the rich green of arbor-vitæ trees. I was surprised to learn that this was another temple, for it looked more like an old feudal castle than a peaceful temple to the mild Buddha. We landed at the foot of the beautiful white Marble Bridge that spans the narrow northern portion of the lake, just under the 97 stone wall on which the temple was built. We were carried up the steep, winding incline in our chairs. It was a most picturesque approach, and when we reached the top, with the beautiful temple lying peacefully on these martial heights, we found it well worth the climb.

Then we got into the boats and were rowed further until we arrived beneath a steep fortified wall, topped with lush green arbor-vitae trees. I was surprised to discover that this was another temple, as it resembled an old feudal castle more than a serene shrine to the gentle Buddha. We disembarked at the base of the stunning white Marble Bridge that crosses the narrow northern section of the lake, just below the 97 stone wall on which the temple was built. We were carried up the steep, winding path in our chairs. It was a really picturesque approach, and when we reached the top, with the beautiful temple peacefully situated on these lofty heights, we found it well worth the effort.

There was a grove of arbor-vitæ trees leading to this temple. These trees seem to be sacred to the temples and burial-places in China, for all I ever visited in China were either built in a grove of arbor-vitæ, or had some of these evergreens growing near. Did the Greeks get their idea and name of the ever-living tree from the Chinese, who regard the arbor-vitæ as the tree of life and emblem of Immortality? This temple has a great Buddha of white jade, with jeweled stole and cuffs. Its expression of placid contemplation and kindly thought is typically Chinese. When Buddhism was first brought into China from India, the Buddhas had an Indian type; and not until the religion had taken firm hold of the people, was its divinity clothed in a Chinese personality, and a national individuality assumed. The day of our visit, the great jade Buddha was decked in a mantle of Imperial yellow satin, with a richly embroidered Manchu hood, such as I had seen that morning in Her Majesty’s Throne-room, on its head. Tall, lighted candles, fresh offerings of fruit and flowers, and the smoking censer standing on the altar, showed there had been services that morning, and added to the religious atmosphere of the interior. The service had been a continuation of the commemorative celebrations in honor of the Emperor’s Birthday and his sacrifice to his Ancestors.

There was a grove of arbor-vitae trees leading to this temple. These trees seem to be sacred to temples and burial sites in China, as all the ones I visited were either built in a grove of arbor-vitae or had some of these evergreens nearby. Did the Greeks get their idea and name for the ever-living tree from the Chinese, who consider the arbor-vitae as the tree of life and a symbol of immortality? This temple has a great Buddha made of white jade, dressed in a jeweled stole and cuffs. Its expression of calm contemplation and warm thought is typically Chinese. When Buddhism was first introduced to China from India, the Buddhas had an Indian appearance; it wasn’t until the religion became established among the people that its deity was portrayed with a Chinese identity and national characteristics. On the day of our visit, the great jade Buddha was draped in a mantle of imperial yellow satin, with a richly embroidered Manchu hood on its head, similar to what I had seen that morning in Her Majesty’s Throne Room. Tall, lit candles, fresh offerings of fruit and flowers, and a smoking censer on the altar showed that services had taken place that morning, adding to the spiritual atmosphere inside. The service was part of the commemorative celebrations honoring the Emperor’s Birthday and his tribute to his ancestors.

98 The principal court of this temple is one of the most picturesque in the Sea Palace, shaded by magnificent cedars and stately elms. In the center, there was a magnificent cistern of verd-antique, splendidly carved in dragons. Over this cistern was a marble portico, its columns supporting a curious concave, copper roof. This roof had been a Palace “cooking utensil,” that had been used in former times to prepare food for the poor; hence its extraordinary size. When it was worn out in this capacity it was used as the interior of the dome over the temple well, where the poor and weary could come to rest under its shadow and drink of the water of the well it protected. There were cells and outhouses for the monks in this temple also. But as we sat in the shady court, looking across the sunlit lake, the sky became suddenly overcast, and we took our chairs and hurried down the steep, paved road that led from the temple to the lake. We did not take the boats again on reaching the lake, but were carried, in our chairs, across the beautiful Marble Bridge. Just beyond us, we saw the towers of the first Catholic Cathedral ever built in Peking. It was built on land given to the Catholics by the Emperor; but, when finished, its towers were found to overlook the Palace grounds; so the Cathedral was bought by the Emperor, and land was given the Mission further on, and another Cathedral was built. The first Cathedral is now within the Walls of the Sea Palace, and is visible from every part of the grounds of the two Peking Palaces. It seems a strange anomaly to see this Christian Church within the Precincts of the Palace of 99 an Oriental potentate, who is one of the representatives on earth of the “Great Buddha.”

98 The main courtyard of this temple is one of the most beautiful spots in the Sea Palace, shaded by impressive cedars and tall elms. In the middle, there was a stunning cistern made of verd-antique, intricately carved with dragons. Above this cistern was a marble portico, with columns supporting a unique concave copper roof. This roof used to be a "cooking utensil" from the Palace, used long ago to prepare food for the needy; hence its huge size. When it was no longer usable for that purpose, it was repurposed as the interior dome over the temple well, where the poor and tired could come to rest in its shade and drink from the well it sheltered. There were also cells and outhouses for the monks at this temple. But as we sat in the shady courtyard, gazing across the sunlit lake, the sky suddenly turned overcast, and we grabbed our chairs and quickly made our way down the steep, paved road leading from the temple to the lake. Instead of taking the boats again when we reached the lake, we were carried in our chairs across the beautiful Marble Bridge. Just ahead, we spotted the towers of the first Catholic Cathedral ever built in Peking. It was constructed on land given to the Catholics by the Emperor; however, once it was completed, its towers were found to overlook the Palace grounds, so the Emperor bought the Cathedral, and land was provided to the Mission further away for another Cathedral to be built. The first Cathedral now stands within the Walls of the Sea Palace and can be seen from every part of the grounds of both Peking Palaces. It's quite a strange sight to see this Christian Church within the boundaries of the Palace of 99 an Oriental ruler, who is one of the earthly representatives of the "Great Buddha."

It began to rain, and the chair-bearers ran along to the Palace without stopping again, and we were soon called to dinner in the Throne-room, overlooking the small Theater, for there are two Theaters in the Sea Palace, one for winter use and one for summer. The latter is built on piles over the waters of a canal. Building the stage over water is supposed to give a peculiar musical resonance to the voices of the actors, softening the sounds and making them more pleasant to the ear.

It started to rain, and the chair bearers hurried to the Palace without stopping. We were soon called to dinner in the Throne Room, which overlooks the small Theater, since there are two Theaters in the Sea Palace—one for winter and one for summer. The summer one is built on stilts over a canal. The idea behind having the stage over water is that it gives a unique musical quality to the actors' voices, softening the sounds and making them more pleasant to hear.

After dinner in the beautiful summer Throne-room, with the rippling waters just beneath the windows, we made our adieus, first to Her Majesty and then to the young Empress and Ladies, and went out to be again rowed over the beautiful lake to the outside gates. The sun was setting! The arches of the Marble Bridge had become a beautiful, deep violet hue, and spanned the waters of the lake, now a gleaming mass of liquid gold. The sky beyond shone through the masses of foliage with a golden glow, and the towers of the old Cathedral were strongly silhouetted against this brilliant background. The scene was an ideal one. A beautiful silence pervaded everything, made the more rhythmic and intense by the regular movement of the oars in the water. When we reached the other side of the lake we were conducted to our green chairs, which were waiting without the gate, and were swiftly carried back to the Legation.

After dinner in the gorgeous summer throne room, with the shimmering water just outside the windows, we said our goodbyes, first to Her Majesty and then to the young Empress and the ladies, and headed out to be rowed across the lovely lake to the outer gates. The sun was setting! The arches of the Marble Bridge had turned a stunning deep violet and stretched over the lake, now sparkling like liquid gold. The sky beyond glowed with a golden light peeking through the leaves, and the towers of the old Cathedral stood out against this vibrant backdrop. The scene was perfect. A serene silence enveloped everything, made more rhythmic and intense by the even movement of the oars in the water. When we reached the other side of the lake, we were guided to our green chairs waiting by the gate and were quickly taken back to the Legation.

100

CHAPTER XI SOME CHARACTERISTICS OF HER MAJESTY—SECOND VISIT TO THE SEA PALACE

I spent the next day at the Legation, and thoroughly enjoyed it, but I was glad to think that I was to spend the following day at the Palace again. The study of Her Majesty had now become to me like a thrilling novel. I could not bear to lay it down; and when I was forced to do so, I was longing to be able to resume it. She was such a delightful surprise to me. I had heard and read so much of her, before I went to the Palace, and nothing that I had heard or read had at all prepared me for the reality, so charming, so unusual was her personality. Not charming and interesting by fits and starts, but always so! She was so considerate and tactful, and seemed so really kind in her relations with those who surrounded her. I had been now nearly a month in daily contact with her. I saw her, not only when she sat for the portrait; I was with her the greater part of the day, and I began to let myself go in my admiration of her. The days seemed flat and stale when I could not see her—so full of interest and charm I found her. She was a woman of such infinite variety! There was always something new and fresh to study 101 in her. She was the very embodiment of the Eternal Feminine. She was at once a child and a woman with strong, virile qualities. She would go into the Audience Hall, transact weighty affairs of State for three hours, and then go for her walks or excursions, and take a childish interest in the simplest pleasures. She would be seated in one of her Throne-rooms in trivial conversation with her Ladies, when an Official Despatch, in its yellow silk case, would be brought in, and presented by the eunuch on bended knees. Her face would immediately become full of serious interest; she would bend her brows and become the statesman; a few moments later, when she had duly considered, and given orders relative to the despatch, she became again the woman, full of interest in her flowers, dresses, and jewels.

I spent the next day at the Legation and really enjoyed it, but I was glad to think that I would be back at the Palace the following day. Studying Her Majesty had turned into a thrilling novel for me. I couldn't put it down, and when I had to stop, I was eager to pick it back up. She was such a wonderful surprise. I had heard and read so much about her before visiting the Palace, and nothing had really prepared me for how charming and unique she was in reality. She wasn't just charming and interesting at times; she always was! She was considerate and tactful, genuinely kind to those around her. I had now spent nearly a month in daily contact with her. I saw her not just when she posed for the portrait; I was with her for most of the day, and I started to fully admire her. The days felt flat and boring when I couldn’t see her—she was so full of interest and charm. She had such incredible variety! There was always something new and fresh to discover in her. She embodied the Eternal Feminine. She was both a child and a woman with strong, masculine qualities. She would enter the Audience Hall, handle important state matters for three hours, and then go for walks or outings, taking childlike pleasure in the simplest things. She might be sitting in one of her Throne-rooms, having casual conversations with her Ladies, when an official dispatch in its yellow silk case was brought in, presented by the eunuch on bended knee. Her expression would instantly shift to one of serious interest; she would furrow her brows and take on the role of a statesman. A few moments later, after she had considered the dispatch and given her orders, she would revert back to being a woman, full of interest in her flowers, dresses, and jewelry. 101

A distinguished Frenchman once said of Her Majesty the Empress Dowager, “C’est le seul homme de la Chine,” and she deserves the appellation of “man,” if it goes to mean superior intelligence and executive ability; but it was not the “statesman” that I had the best opportunity of studying. It was the woman in her private life; and I had unusual advantages for this study, and the more I saw of her, the more remarkable I found her! Her favors to the Ladies of the Court were very impartially distributed. She had her favorites, but she did not allow them to gain any supremacy over her, nor to warp her judgment. Although her “entourage” never expressed an opinion contrary to hers, in her presence, and though she always accepted their expressed views in the most courteous manner, one could see she was not imposed 102 upon, and that she knew, perfectly well, their real opinions, so great was her natural penetration.

A notable Frenchman once said of Her Majesty the Empress Dowager, “She’s the only man in China,” and she certainly earns that title if it implies exceptional intelligence and leadership skills; however, what I had the best chance to observe was not the “statesman” but the woman in her private life. I had unique opportunities for this observation, and the more I got to know her, the more extraordinary I found her! She distributed her favors to the Ladies of the Court fairly. While she had her favorites, she did not let them gain any dominance over her or influence her judgment. Even though her “entourage” never voiced a disagreement in her presence and always accepted her expressed views with the utmost courtesy, it was clear that she was not easily swayed and that she was fully aware of their true opinions, thanks to her remarkable insight. 102

I was astonished to find in what veneration the Empress Dowager was really held by the Ladies of the Court and her “entourage.” Her favorite title, and that by which she has been longest known to the courtiers, is, “Lao-Fo-yeh,” the “Old Buddha,” which shows that they invest her with sacred qualities. After her return from Hsi-An Fu, where the Court went when the allied troops occupied Peking, and where the sacred Persons of Her Majesty and the Emperor suffered so many hardships and endured them so bravely, the courtiers gave her another, a closer and more affectionate appellation, “Lao-Tzu-Tzung” (The Old Ancestress). This was the title by which she was called in the Palace, by the Emperor, Empress, and Princesses, and by which she allowed me to address her.

I was amazed to see how much respect the Empress Dowager really received from the Ladies of the Court and her “entourage.” Her favorite title, and the one she's been known by the longest among the courtiers, is “Lao-Fo-yeh,” meaning “Old Buddha,” which indicates that they attribute sacred qualities to her. After her return from Hsi-An Fu, where the Court relocated when the allied troops occupied Peking, and where Her Majesty and the Emperor faced so many hardships and endured them so bravely, the courtiers gave her another, more affectionate title: “Lao-Tzu-Tzung” (The Old Ancestress). This was the name she was called in the Palace by the Emperor, Empress, and Princesses, and the one she allowed me to use for her.

On our arrival at the Sea Palace, the day of my second visit there, after making our bows to Her Majesty, we started, in our chairs, to the Hall of the Mongolian Princes. This is a magnificent hall in the northeastern part of the park, some distance away from Her Majesty’s and the Emperor’s Palaces. It is of one story, as usual, but this nearly forty feet high. The interior is spacious, with only a few dragon tables and chairs and no ornaments or other furniture. There is a raised dais at the back, with several steps leading up to it. Upon the dais stood a splendid Throne of archaic design, and over the Throne there are two huge tablets of black marble, with inscriptions in Chinese and Manchu characters. This 103 great hall is used only for receiving the Mongolian Princes on their annual visit to Peking, when they come in state, with hundreds of followers and retainers, to pay homage and tribute to the Emperor of China. The rear of the hall opens on a court surrounded by smaller buildings, which are used as waiting-rooms for the retainers and followers of the Princes.

Upon our arrival at the Sea Palace, on my second visit there, we bowed to Her Majesty and then headed in our chairs to the Hall of the Mongolian Princes. This magnificent hall is located in the northeastern part of the park, a bit of a distance from Her Majesty’s and the Emperor’s Palaces. It is a single story, as usual, but nearly forty feet high. The interior is spacious, with just a few dragon tables and chairs, lacking any decorations or additional furniture. At the back, there is a raised dais with several steps leading up to it. On the dais sits a splendid throne with an ancient design, and above the throne are two large black marble tablets inscribed with Chinese and Manchu characters. This 103 great hall is used solely for receiving the Mongolian Princes during their annual visit to Peking, when they come in style, accompanied by hundreds of followers and retainers, to pay homage and tribute to the Emperor of China. The back of the hall opens into a courtyard surrounded by smaller buildings, which serve as waiting rooms for the retainers and followers of the Princes.

From this hall we were carried in our chairs along the banks of the lake, beyond the Marble Bridge to a distant part of the grounds, where stands the famous Dragon Wall. Most of the Chinese houses have a sort of stone screen opposite the principal gate of entrance. This screen, called “A Wall of Respect,” often has some sort of painted or carved representation of a dragon, which is supposed to chase away evil spirits. This superstition does not seem to obtain as regards the residences of the Son of Heaven, for I never saw a dragon wall built in front of any of the entrances to the buildings in the Palace inclosures. Perhaps the Son of Heaven is immune from the visit of demons, or is it that the rampant Double Dragon on everything Imperial serves as sufficient protection to the Palace? The Dragon Wall, in the Sea Palace, must have formed a part of some of the outside palaces or temples which were brought into the sacred inclosure when the Emperor Hsien-Feng decided to make it a place of residence and enlarge its domain. Many foreigners in Peking can remember when the beautiful Marble Bridge, of such noble proportions, of such exquisite design, now within the Precincts, was used by the public. However it got there, the 104 Dragon Wall is at present within the Palace inclosure, though in an unused part of the grounds—not in front of any “residence,” and hence not filling its mission as a “Wall of Respect,” to keep the wicked spirits from crossing the threshold. This Dragon Wall of beautiful white marble is of great beauty, exquisitely carved in its minutest details, and fine in general conception and line.

From this hall, we were carried in our chairs along the banks of the lake, beyond the Marble Bridge to a far part of the grounds, where the famous Dragon Wall stands. Most Chinese houses have a kind of stone screen opposite the main entrance. This screen, called “A Wall of Respect,” often features a painted or carved dragon, which is meant to chase away evil spirits. This belief doesn't seem to apply to the residences of the Son of Heaven, as I never saw a dragon wall in front of any entrances to the buildings within the Palace grounds. Perhaps the Son of Heaven is protected from demons, or maybe the fierce Double Dragon on everything Imperial provides enough protection for the Palace? The Dragon Wall, in the Sea Palace, must have originally been part of some outer palaces or temples that were brought into the sacred area when Emperor Hsien-Feng decided to make it a residence and expand its territory. Many foreigners in Beijing can recall when the beautiful Marble Bridge, with its grand proportions and exquisite design, now within the Precincts, was open to the public. However it ended up there, the Dragon Wall is currently located within the Palace grounds, though in an unused area—not in front of any “residence,” so it’s not fulfilling its purpose as a “Wall of Respect” to keep wicked spirits from crossing the threshold. This Dragon Wall, made of stunning white marble, is beautifully crafted in intricate detail and has a fine overall design and shape. 104

CHINESE ARCHITECTURE

Chinese Architecture

Her Majesty had returned from the Audience when we got back to the Palace from our morning promenade. She was now attending to household affairs. The eunuchs were bringing up, for her inspection, the baskets of splendid fruits, which are daily sent into the Palace. Among others, there was a basket of magnificent grapes. She was delighted with their beauty, and held up one splendid bunch against the light, before she tasted them, remarking that “the beautiful color lent an added zest to the delicious fruit.” Her Majesty then lunched, while we joined the Empress and Princesses on the verandah, after which we lunched again in this beautiful Throne-room. The meals taken with the young Empress and Ladies of the Court had now come to be gay reunions. Her Majesty would ask us every day to lunch or dine at her table, and I rarely took a meal in my own quarters. I had discarded the knife and fork and was learning to use the chop-sticks. I thought them such graceful implements when wielded by the beautiful hands of the Chinese Ladies, that I determined to learn their use. Though I never became an adept with them, I found these dainty implements perfectly adapted for eating the Chinese food. They are used 105 both in the same hand like twin fairy wands, and seemed to me much more delicate and graceful than a knife and fork. My efforts at using them, and my desire to try all the new dishes, amused and pleased the Ladies. Each would give me special tidbits from her favorite dishes; they tried to teach me the Chinese names of the viands. My efforts at pronouncing these names, or my giving them to the wrong dishes, sometimes raised peals of laughter from the whole table. Her Majesty often heard the merriment, and would ask us, when we went into her private apartments after the meal, what had been the cause; and sometimes she would say, “What has ‘Kergunia’[4] said?”

Her Majesty had come back from her meeting when we returned to the Palace from our morning walk. She was now dealing with household matters. The eunuchs were bringing up the baskets of gorgeous fruits that are sent to the Palace every day for her inspection. Among them was a basket of beautiful grapes. She was thrilled by their beauty and held up one stunning bunch to the light before tasting it, commenting that “the lovely color added extra excitement to the delicious fruit.” Her Majesty then had lunch, while we joined the Empress and Princesses on the veranda, after which we had another lunch in this beautiful Throne-room. The meals with the young Empress and Ladies of the Court had turned into lively gatherings. Her Majesty would invite us daily to lunch or dine at her table, and I rarely ate in my own quarters. I had given up using a knife and fork and was learning to use chopsticks. I thought they were such elegant tools when used by the beautiful hands of the Chinese Ladies, so I decided to learn how to use them. Although I never mastered them, I found these delicate tools perfectly suited for eating Chinese food. They are held in the same hand like twin fairy wands and seemed much more refined and graceful than a knife and fork. My attempts at using them and my eagerness to try all the new dishes entertained and delighted the Ladies. Each would share special bites from her favorite dishes; they tried to teach me the Chinese names for the food. My efforts at pronouncing these names, or my mix-ups with the wrong dishes, sometimes caused peals of laughter around the table. Her Majesty often heard the laughter and would ask us, when we entered her private rooms after the meal, what it was all about; and sometimes she would say, “What has ‘Kergunia’[4] said?”

We had scarcely finished luncheon, on this my second day at the Sea Palace, before the chairs were ordered for a promenade. It had begun to rain, and the air was chilly; but Her Majesty had made up her mind to have a walk at that hour, and nothing ever interfered with her plans, in so far as she was able to carry them out. No weather, however disagreeable or severe, ever kept her from an outdoor promenade that she had planned. The open chairs were brought, as if the day were fine. Her Majesty and the Empress took their seats in their yellow chairs. Their attendant eunuchs unfurled the huge yellow umbrellas, used only for Their Imperial Majesties and the young Empress; the second Empress took her orange-colored chair; the Princesses and the rest of us seated ourselves in our red chairs, and our eunuchs raised the red umbrellas over us. Her Majesty the Empress and Princesses, clothed in the brilliant colors daily 106 worn, the eunuchs still wearing their richly embroidered gala costumes, the chair-bearers still clad in the festive red, the yellow and red chairs with the big yellow, orange, and red umbrellas made a quaint procession, bright with color, that started off through the courts into the gardens.

We had just finished lunch on my second day at the Sea Palace when the chairs were called for a walk. It had started to rain, and the air was cold, but Her Majesty was determined to take her stroll at that hour, and nothing would stop her from going through with her plans as long as she could manage it. No weather, no matter how unpleasant or harsh, ever kept her from an outdoor walk she had organized. The open chairs were brought out as if it were a nice day. Her Majesty and the Empress settled into their yellow chairs. Their eunuchs opened the large yellow umbrellas, reserved only for Their Imperial Majesties and the young Empress; the second Empress took her orange-colored chair; the Princesses and the rest of us sat in our red chairs, while our eunuchs raised the red umbrellas over us. Her Majesty, the Empress, and the Princesses were dressed in their bright colors, the eunuchs still in their richly embroidered gala outfits, and the chair-bearers still in festive red. The yellow and red chairs, with the big yellow, orange, and red umbrellas, created a charming, colorful procession as we headed through the courts into the gardens. 106

Her Majesty loves every phase of nature and every kind of weather; but it seemed to me as if she particularly loved rain. She once said it lent such a poetic charm to the landscape, bathing it in a soft mystery and washing away all defects. Peking is a dry place, and rain is a rarity, which probably accounts for this predilection. Her Majesty was in great good humor, but her partiality for rain was not shared by the other Ladies of the Palace, and these rainy promenades were never indulged in by them with any great show of delight. Her Majesty likes moving swiftly, and the chair-bearers always run when she leads the procession. We sped along for about fifteen minutes, when the chairs suddenly stopped. I looked to see for what reason, as we were in the open, with no shelter anywhere near, and the rain still falling. I was surprised to see Her Majesty was already out of her chair and walking off toward a “gourd-arbor” at the side of the paved walk.

Her Majesty loves every part of nature and all kinds of weather; however, it seemed to me that she especially loved the rain. She once mentioned that it added a poetic charm to the landscape, wrapping it in a soft mystery and washing away all imperfections. Peking is a dry place, and rain is rare, which probably explains her preference. Her Majesty was in excellent spirits, but her fondness for rain wasn't shared by the other Ladies of the Palace, and they never joined in on these rainy walks with much enthusiasm. Her Majesty enjoys moving quickly, and the chair-bearers always run when she leads the way. We rushed along for about fifteen minutes when the chairs suddenly came to a stop. I looked around to see why, as we were outdoors with no shelter nearby, and the rain was still falling. I was surprised to see Her Majesty had already gotten out of her chair and was walking toward a “gourd-arbor” at the side of the paved path.

The gourd is much esteemed by the Chinese. It is emblematic of Fruitfulness and Prosperity, and is a special favorite of Her Majesty’s. Those cultivated at the Palace, and known all over China as the “Imperial Gourd,” have long been famous; but have reached a greater state of perfection than ever before, under the special care and training given them during 107 Her Majesty the Empress Dowager’s reign. They are of one shape only, with a contracted neck and two equal parts above and below; but they are of all sizes, from one to twelve inches, the one-inch size being as perfect as the larger ones. They are grown on trellises, about seven feet high, and the vines are very carefully trained, so that each of the much-prized fruit may attain its best development and have its proper quota of light and sun.

The gourd is highly valued by the Chinese. It symbolizes abundance and prosperity, and it's a particular favorite of Her Majesty. Those grown at the Palace, known throughout China as the “Imperial Gourd,” have long been renowned; but they have reached an even higher level of perfection than ever before, due to the special care and training they receive during 107 Her Majesty the Empress Dowager’s reign. They all have the same shape, with a narrow neck and two equal halves, but they come in various sizes from one to twelve inches, with the one-inch variety being just as flawless as the larger ones. They are cultivated on trellises about seven feet high, and the vines are meticulously trained so that each prized fruit can achieve optimal growth and receive adequate light and sunlight.

Her Majesty walked through the mud to the arbor. The white kid six-inch-high soles of her shoes sank deep into the soft, rain-soaked soil. The eunuchs made vain attempts to protect her from the rain, but she went imperturbably on and was soon under the gourd-arbor. Here she leisurely tried several of the gourds, to see if they were properly ripe; for they must be pulled at a certain time or they do not dry well. After looking at and trying a number, she had several gathered and went back to her chair. The young Empress and the other Ladies had, of course, got out of the chairs when Her Majesty stopped. Luckily, she did not ask us to go into the arbor with her; but etiquette obliged us to stand on the marble walk, which though not muddy and not so disagreeable as the walk to the gourd-arbor, was, however, running with water. When Her Majesty took her chair again, we resumed ours, with a sigh of relief; for, though we were unprotected even in the chairs, we felt the truth of the Oriental saying, “It is better to be sitting than standing,” etc.

Her Majesty walked through the mud to the arbor. The white, six-inch-high soles of her shoes sank deep into the soft, rain-soaked soil. The eunuchs tried futilely to shield her from the rain, but she continued on calmly and soon reached the gourd arbor. Here, she casually checked several of the gourds to see if they were properly ripe because they needed to be picked at the right time to dry well. After inspecting and testing a number of gourds, she had several picked and returned to her chair. The young Empress and the other ladies naturally got out of their chairs when Her Majesty paused. Fortunately, she didn’t ask us to follow her into the arbor; however, etiquette required us to stand on the marble path, which, although not muddy and not as unpleasant as the path to the gourd arbor, was still running with water. When Her Majesty sat down again, we resumed our chairs with a sigh of relief because, even though we were unprotected while sitting, we felt the truth of the saying, “It’s better to be sitting than standing.”

After another quarter of an hour, the chair-bearers stopped again. We had come to another gourd-arbor! 108 Her Majesty got out of her chair and examined the gourds in this arbor with the same deliberation and interest as she had looked at those where we first stopped. The rain was now falling in torrents, but Her Majesty’s spirits seemed to go up in proportion to its coming down. The Ladies were again obliged to get out of their chairs! They stood in two dejected lines, with the eunuchs holding, as best they might, the red umbrellas over each, and they vainly tried to keep up an appearance of interest and enjoyment. The brave finery of the eunuchs, who may not carry umbrellas when on service, was now hanging in limp folds about them, and their fine feathers were much bedraggled. The Chinese Ladies had their two-inch-high, kid-covered cork soles to protect their feet from the water; but mine, in thin kid slippers, were soaking. The picture of the dejected Ladies, the rain-soaked eunuchs, was, however, so amusing, that I quite forgot my own discomfort and thoroughly enjoyed the situation. After another twenty minutes’ run, with the rain still falling, Her Majesty gave the word and the procession turned toward the Hall of the Mongolian Princes. The great doors were thrown open, and we were, at last, under shelter.

After another fifteen minutes, the chair-bearers stopped again. We had arrived at another gourd-arbor! 108 Her Majesty got out of her chair and examined the gourds in this arbor with the same care and interest as she had at the previous stop. The rain was pouring down, but Her Majesty’s mood seemed to improve as the rain intensified. The Ladies had to get out of their chairs once more! They stood in two downcast lines, with the eunuchs awkwardly holding the red umbrellas over them, trying in vain to maintain an air of interest and enjoyment. The impressive attire of the eunuchs, who weren't allowed to carry umbrellas while on duty, now hung in droopy folds, and their fine feathers were all messy. The Chinese Ladies wore two-inch-high, kid-covered cork soles to keep their feet dry, but mine, in thin kid slippers, were getting soaked. The sight of the gloomy Ladies and the rain-drenched eunuchs was so amusing that I completely forgot my own discomfort and thoroughly enjoyed the situation. After another twenty-minute journey, with the rain still coming down, Her Majesty signaled for us to turn toward the Hall of the Mongolian Princes. The large doors swung open, and we were finally under shelter.

A yellow chair was placed for Her Majesty in front of the dais, and she had some of the gourds she had gathered brought to her. She selected one for herself, gave one to her principal Lady-in-waiting, Sih-Gerga, and handed one to the Chief Eunuch Li—the Princess and the Chief Eunuch both being proficient in the art of scraping them. A sharpened piece of 109 bamboo was brought to Her Majesty and she began to work on the gourd she had taken, scraping off the outer skin. She told me to stand near and watch her scrape it, as it was a very difficult thing to do well! She certainly did it well, and it was most interesting to watch her beautiful little hands, as they gracefully moved the piece of bamboo back and forth, quickly removing the outer skin, in the most approved way. Though apparently thoroughly interested in scraping her gourd, she asked me how I had enjoyed my promenade of the day before, and what I thought of the Sea Palace. She called my attention to the inscriptions on the tablets behind the Throne, saying they were in Manchu and Chinese characters, pointing out their difference of form and also speaking of the differences in the two languages. She said she thought Manchu would be easier for a foreigner to learn than Chinese, as Manchu has an alphabet and is constructed more on the lines of a European language. Presently Her Majesty turned to speak to some one else, and I immediately withdrew, as is the custom at the Palace. We went out and joined the Empress and Princesses, who had already retired from the Throne-room and were having tea and cigarettes reclining on the couches in one of the rooms in the rear. After an hour’s rest in the Mongolian Hall, the rain having ceased, we continued our promenade through the grounds much more pleasantly than we had begun it, and Her Majesty took me for a walk in the Gardens of the Sea Palace, as she had promised.

A yellow chair was set up for Her Majesty in front of the dais, and she had some of the gourds she had collected brought to her. She picked one for herself, gave one to her main Lady-in-waiting, Sih-Gerga, and handed one to Chief Eunuch Li—the Princess and the Chief Eunuch both being skilled at scraping them. A sharpened piece of 109 bamboo was brought to Her Majesty, and she started working on the gourd she chose, scraping off the outer skin. She asked me to stand nearby and watch her scrape it, saying it was a very difficult task to do well! She certainly did it well, and it was fascinating to watch her beautiful little hands gracefully move the piece of bamboo back and forth, quickly removing the outer skin in the most approved manner. Though she seemed completely focused on scraping her gourd, she asked me how I’d enjoyed my walk the day before and what I thought of the Sea Palace. She drew my attention to the inscriptions on the tablets behind the Throne, explaining they were in Manchu and Chinese characters, pointing out their differences in form and discussing the differences between the two languages. She mentioned that she thought Manchu would be easier for a foreigner to learn than Chinese since Manchu has an alphabet and is structured more like a European language. Shortly after, Her Majesty turned to speak to someone else, and I stepped back, as is the custom at the Palace. We went out and joined the Empress and Princesses, who had already left the Throne-room and were having tea and cigarettes while lounging on the couches in one of the back rooms. After resting for an hour in the Mongolian Hall, with the rain having stopped, we continued our walk through the grounds, which was much more enjoyable than how we had started, and Her Majesty took me for a stroll in the Gardens of the Sea Palace, just as she had promised.

After dinner, we were rowed over the lake to the Gates. 110 Just beyond them a company of archers was practising with their bows and arrows; for archery is still in vogue in China, and fine marksmanship among the archers is rewarded by substantial advancement in the army. Archery is also practised as a sport by the young Manchu nobles. It is said to educate the eye and materially develop the chest and arms. The Chinese pay great attention to position in archery. They stand stiffly erect, the chest thrown well forward, the head held high, the bow and arrow at rigidly prescribed angles; and if this position be not observed, however true the flight of the arrow, it goes for naught. From the shelter of my chair, I watched the company’s practice until I heard the “Sunset call” resounding through the Palace grounds; echoed and reëchoed until it reached the outer gates, which began to move upon their huge hinges until they clanged together for the night.

After dinner, we were rowed across the lake to the Gates. 110 Just beyond them, a group of archers was practicing with their bows and arrows; archery is still popular in China, and skilled marksmanship among archers leads to significant promotions in the army. Young Manchu nobles also practice archery as a sport. It's said to improve eyesight and significantly build up the chest and arms. The Chinese pay close attention to posture in archery. They stand up straight, with their chests pushed forward, heads held high, and the bow and arrow positioned at specific angles; if this posture isn't maintained, no matter how accurately the arrow flies, it doesn’t count. From my chair, I watched their practice until I heard the "Sunset call" echoing through the Palace grounds; it resonated until it reached the outer gates, which began to swing on their massive hinges and clanged shut for the night.

111

CHAPTER XII RETURN TO THE SUMMER PALACE

The next day the Court returned to the Summer Palace. The festivities and sacrifices in connection with the Emperor’s Birthday being now over and the Court settled down to its usual routine, I hoped I might be allowed to go regularly to work on the portrait, and that Her Majesty would allow me to paint when she was not posing. There was much I could do between times, and she could pose but for a short time each day. Up to that time, Her Majesty had treated me as a guest at Court, whose amusement was the most important thing to be looked after. She seemed much interested in the work, but my painting was an incident and even the “Sacred Picture” a secondary consideration. All these walks, these delightful excursions, were perfectly charming, and, had I gone to the Palace to enjoy myself, or to study Her Majesty and Chinese manners and customs, I would have been perfectly satisfied. I had, in the Empress Dowager, a psychological study full of ever varying and constant interest. I was living through a unique experience, seeing what I could never hope to see again, but I was not allowed to paint on the portrait as much as I should have liked. Could I but have had permission 112 to work more, I should have been very happy. Had I been able to speak Chinese well enough, I felt I would obtain what I desired; she had shown herself so uniformly kind. She probably felt I was enjoying myself more in this way than working at my painting.

The next day, the Court returned to the Summer Palace. With the celebrations and rituals for the Emperor’s Birthday now over and the Court back to its usual routine, I hoped I could regularly work on the portrait, and that Her Majesty would let me paint when she wasn’t posing. There was a lot I could do in the meantime, and she could only pose for a short time each day. Until that point, Her Majesty had treated me like a guest at Court, prioritizing my enjoyment. She seemed genuinely interested in the work, but my painting was just a side note and even the “Sacred Picture” was a lower priority. All these walks and delightful excursions were perfectly charming, and if I had come to the Palace just to enjoy myself, or to study Her Majesty and Chinese customs, I would have been completely satisfied. I had, in the Empress Dowager, a fascinating psychological study that was always interesting. I was experiencing something unique, seeing things I could never hope to see again, but I wasn’t allowed to paint the portrait as much as I wanted. If I could have just been given permission to work more, I would have been very happy. If I had been able to speak Chinese well enough, I felt I could have obtained what I wanted; she had been so consistently kind. She probably thought I was enjoying myself more this way than focusing on my painting. 112

While I thoroughly enjoyed the promenades with Her Majesty, I loved the daily sittings. Every portrait painter knows the sort of intimacy that establishes itself between him and his sitter, however unsympathetic the latter may be at first sight, which was certainly not the case in this instance. The effort of the painter to get under the exterior and discover the real person of his sitter; the desire to see the best side and make the most of it, meets generally with a sympathetic response. If the “rapport” is properly established, they get to know each other better by the time the portrait is finished than they could otherwise have done, perhaps in years. Though I saw Her Majesty so intimately at other times, I felt I was not seeing her “face to face” (figuratively speaking), except at the sittings.

While I really enjoyed the walks with Her Majesty, I loved the daily sessions. Every portrait artist understands the kind of closeness that develops between them and their subject, even if the subject seems unapproachable at first, which definitely wasn’t the case here. The artist's effort to look beyond the surface and uncover the true essence of their subject, along with the desire to highlight their best qualities, usually results in a positive connection. When this "rapport" is well established, they often get to know each other more deeply by the time the portrait is finished than they might have in years. Even though I observed Her Majesty closely at other times, I felt that I wasn't really seeing her "face to face" (figuratively speaking), except during the sittings.

ON THE ROAD FROM PEKING TO THE SUMMER PALACE

ON THE ROAD FROM BEIJING TO THE SUMMER PALACE

The morning after our return to the Summer Palace, my easel was again placed in the Throne-room. The portrait was taken down from its resting-place and work resumed. Her Majesty gave me a long sitting, and the portrait made a step ahead. If I had only had a place to work alone, where I might study the picture, when she was not posing, I could have made so many improvements! But I was obliged to possess my soul in patience, and work along for the short space of an hour or so a day and stop the moment 113 Her Majesty felt fatigued, when my brushes and palette were whisked away, as if by magic. There was no chance to study the portrait or to do anything, except when the Empress Dowager and the crowd of attendants were present.

The morning after we returned to the Summer Palace, I set up my easel again in the Throne Room. The portrait was taken down from its spot, and work resumed. Her Majesty gave me a long sitting, and the portrait progressed. If only I had a space to work alone, where I could study the picture while she wasn’t posing, I could have made so many improvements! But I had to be patient and work for just about an hour each day, stopping the moment 113 Her Majesty felt tired, and my brushes and palette were whisked away as if by magic. There was no opportunity to study the portrait or do anything except when the Empress Dowager and the crowd of attendants were around.

I had taken to the Palace only a small folding easel, which was not at all suitable for regular work on so large a portrait, but it was impossible to get a better one in Peking. Her Majesty, who observed everything, noticed that it was not convenient, and suggested that I draw a design for a large easel and give it to the Palace carpenters to copy. She thought they would be able to make me one. I did so, and they made me a very satisfactory working easel. When the eunuchs found that this Palace easel suited me, five others of different sizes were made. I asked for what reason, and was told that everything for Her Majesty was made in sixes. It would have been establishing a precedent, making an innovation, to have fewer than six easels for her portrait.

I brought only a small folding easel to the Palace, which wasn’t really suitable for working on such a large portrait, but I couldn’t find a better one in Peking. Her Majesty, who observed everything, noticed that it wasn't convenient and suggested that I design a larger easel and give it to the Palace carpenters to replicate. She figured they could make one for me. I did that, and they created a very satisfactory working easel. When the eunuchs saw that this Palace easel worked for me, they made five more in different sizes. I asked why, and they told me that everything for Her Majesty was made in sets of six. It would have set a precedent to have fewer than six easels for her portrait.

Her Majesty also ordered some large flat boxes, with lock and key, to be made for my materials. These boxes were covered in yellow, for they were to be used for the Sacred Picture, and must be in the Imperial color. I forgot to say the six easels had all been stained a bright yellow! A table, surmounted by one of these yellow boxes, occupied a prominent place in the Throne-room during the whole time this portrait was being painted. When I finished painting each day, the Chief Eunuch, himself, removed the picture from the easel, and a number of others came and took my brushes and palette, put away the easel and 114 closed the yellow box and locked it. Our head eunuch carried the key to the box.

Her Majesty also ordered some large flat boxes, with a lock and key, to be made for my materials. These boxes were covered in yellow, as they were to be used for the Sacred Picture and needed to be in the Imperial color. I forgot to mention that the six easels had all been stained a bright yellow! A table, topped with one of these yellow boxes, occupied a prominent spot in the Throne-room while this portrait was being painted. At the end of each painting session, the Chief Eunuch himself removed the picture from the easel, and several others came to take my brushes and palette, put away the easel, and locked the yellow box. Our head eunuch carried the key to the box.

When the afternoon sitting was finished, we went out for another of those delightful promenades around the grounds. The days were now growing visibly shorter, and the evenings were beginning to be cool. As we went through the gardens, Her Majesty stopped at all her favorite points and looked for a few moments at the view, as if to greet it again, after her absence. She loved the Summer Palace and it always seemed a pleasure to her to return to it. We had tea in one of the tea-houses where there were tables and seats. She ordered the eunuchs to make a sort of blanc-mange of lotus-root flour, which was delicious, and, as she said, most wholesome. When the Empress Dowager goes for a walk, portable stoves and all the paraphernalia necessary for cooking a light repast are taken along. It seemed wonderful to me to see the way the Chinese could cook, with apparently so few conveniences. After this we had tea. The finest tea in China is sent to the Palace. The first leaves of the plantations all over the Great Empire are reserved for Their Majesties. Her Majesty, who is a great epicure, has her choice of these chosen leaves. She adds to the delicacy of its already fine flavor by putting into her tea-cup the blooms of dried honeysuckle, the flowers of jasmine, or other fragrant blooms. The honey from these flowers slightly sweetens the tea, besides giving it a delicate, subtle flavor, quite unique. These dried blooms are brought in a jade bowl, with two long cherry sticks, with which Her Majesty takes the flowers and places them in her cup, stirring them 115 into the tea with these graceful wands. The Chinese never use a teaspoon. Her Majesty drinks her tea from a jade cup, which is placed in a curiously fashioned, cunningly wrought, open-work, silver saucer. The Chinese take their tea boiling hot, and the jade does not get so hot as a porcelain cup.

When the afternoon session was over, we went out for another of those lovely strolls around the grounds. The days were noticeably getting shorter, and the evenings were starting to cool down. As we walked through the gardens, Her Majesty stopped at all her favorite spots and admired the view for a few moments, as if to greet it again after being away. She adored the Summer Palace, and it always seemed a joy for her to return. We had tea in one of the tea houses that had tables and chairs. She asked the eunuchs to prepare a type of blanc-mange made from lotus-root flour, which was delicious and, as she stated, very wholesome. Whenever the Empress Dowager goes for a walk, portable stoves and all the necessary cooking gear for a light meal are brought along. I found it amazing how the Chinese were able to cook with seemingly so few tools. Afterward, we had tea. The best tea in China is sent to the Palace. The first leaves from plantations across the Great Empire are reserved for Their Majesties. Her Majesty, a true connoisseur, selects from these special leaves. To enhance the already fine flavor, she adds dried honeysuckle blooms, jasmine flowers, or other fragrant petals to her tea cup. The honey from these blooms adds a slight sweetness to the tea, giving it a delicate and unique flavor. These dried petals are presented in a jade bowl, accompanied by two long cherry sticks, which Her Majesty uses to transfer the flowers into her cup, stirring them gracefully into the tea. The Chinese never use a teaspoon. Her Majesty drinks her tea from a jade cup placed in a beautifully crafted, open-work silver saucer. The Chinese prefer their tea steaming hot, and the jade doesn't get as hot as a porcelain cup. 115

We continued our walk through the gardens after leaving the tea-house, and when we were passing a bed of flowers Her Majesty spied some curious grass, which she ordered the eunuchs to gather. When it was brought to her she deftly wove several blades of it into a perfectly recognizable representation of a rabbit. She did it so quickly I did not realize she was trying to make anything until she tossed the finished result over to me and asked me what I thought it was. It was unmistakable.

We kept walking through the gardens after leaving the tea house, and while passing a flower bed, Her Majesty noticed some interesting grass, which she instructed the eunuchs to collect. When it was brought to her, she skillfully wove a few blades of it into a clear representation of a rabbit. She did it so quickly that I didn’t realize she was trying to create anything until she tossed the finished piece to me and asked what I thought it was. It was unmistakable.

When we reached our objective point, one of the highest eminences in the grounds, with the whole panorama of the Western Hills spread out beneath us, and the setting sun glowing over all in brilliant splendor, it was a glorious scene. She called me up to her side and made a graceful, sweeping gesture of the hand that said, “This is all mine, but you may share it with me.” She had that sense of possession of nature’s beauties which all artistic souls feel, for their appreciation makes what they view their own. She felt it was hers, because she loved it so, and she knew I would appreciate it, which few of her “entourage” did, as none of them were such passionate lovers of nature as the Empress Dowager, and custom had dulled their perception of the beauty of the scene. The exquisite pleasure the contemplation of this glorious view gave me, made me tremble 116 with delight. As the day was fading and as I was thinly clad, Her Majesty thought I was cold, and, seeing I had no wrap, she called to the Chief Eunuch to bring me one of hers. He selected one from the number that were always brought along for these promenades, and gave it to Her Majesty, who threw it over my shoulders. She asked me to keep it and to try to remember to take better care of myself in the future.

When we got to our destination, one of the highest spots on the grounds, with the entire view of the Western Hills laid out beneath us and the setting sun shining brightly above, it was an amazing sight. She called me over and made a sweeping gesture with her hand that said, “All of this is mine, but you can enjoy it with me.” She had that deep sense of ownership over nature’s beauty that all artistic people share, as their appreciation makes what they see feel like their own. She believed it was hers because she loved it so much, and she knew I would appreciate it, unlike most of her “entourage,” who weren’t as passionate about nature as the Empress Dowager was; they had grown numb to the beauty of the scene over time. The sheer joy I felt from taking in this stunning view made me shiver with delight. As the day turned to dusk and since I was lightly dressed, Her Majesty thought I was cold. Seeing that I had no wrap, she called for the Chief Eunuch to bring me one of hers. He picked one from the several that were always carried along for these outings and gave it to Her Majesty, who draped it over my shoulders. She asked me to keep it and to remember to take better care of myself going forward. 116

117

CHAPTER XIII THE STEAM-LAUNCH—BIYEARLY SACRIFICES TO CONFUCIUS

We began now to go out on the lake in the steam-launches, instead of the picturesque Imperial barge. The Empress Dowager is artistic and conservative enough to like the old-fashioned barge; but she is also intelligent enough to appreciate the advantages of other modes of locomotion, and has no prejudices; in fact, she rather likes trying new things. When the days were long, the air soft, and the bosom of the lake engirdled with its chain of blooming lotus, she preferred the barge; but when the shorter and cooler days came, when the lotus were no longer in bloom, she ordered the steam-launch for our promenades. She seemed now to like its swift and noisy progress as much as she had before enjoyed the softly gliding motion of the barge. Her Throne on the launch was on the prow, just outside and above the cabin, where the Princesses and Ladies sat. Her Majesty always wanted the fresh air and the view, and never went inside. The young Empress and the Ladies sat within the luxuriously fitted up cabin with its lounges and tables.

We now started taking the steam launches out on the lake instead of the scenic Imperial barge. The Empress Dowager is artistic and traditional enough to enjoy the old-fashioned barge, but she’s also smart enough to see the benefits of different ways to travel, and she doesn’t have any biases; in fact, she enjoys trying new things. When the days were long, the air was gentle, and the lake was surrounded by blooming lotuses, she preferred the barge; but when the shorter, cooler days arrived and the lotuses stopped blooming, she chose the steam launch for our outings. She seemed to enjoy its fast and noisy ride just as much as she had loved the smooth glide of the barge before. Her throne on the launch was at the front, just outside and above the cabin, where the Princesses and Ladies sat. Her Majesty always wanted the fresh air and the view and never went inside. The young Empress and the Ladies sat in the sumptuously decorated cabin with its lounges and tables.

The first day we went out in the launch the engineer 118 seemed not to have it quite under control, and we soon ran aground in a field of water-plants near the island. There was great consternation among the eunuchs when it was found the launch could not advance, even by putting on full steam. The engineer didn’t seem to know what to do. Her Majesty ordered the engines reversed, and this was tried, but it was some time before the launch moved. The Princesses and eunuchs became quite excited, but Her Majesty was perfectly unconcerned, and laughed at their fears for her safety. She said it would be no great matter for her to walk over to the island. It would only mean one pair of shoes the less! When the launch finally moved, the Chief Eunuch, not wishing to run the risk of another mishap, wanted to give word to the engineer to return; but Her Majesty would not hear of this, and insisted upon completing the excursion as she had at first planned it. We had several other mishaps, and the launch finally ran aground; and no effort of the engineers, no putting on of extra steam, was able to get us off again. Her Majesty kept her good humor, ordered her barge brought alongside, and we were all “transshipped.” We finished our tour on the lake as she had planned it, but in the barge instead of the launch. She is too intelligent not to use any means at hand to attain her ends, and she is intelligent enough to see that these ends can be attained, by some means or other, before she fixes upon them.

The first day we took the launch out, the engineer didn’t seem to have it fully under control, and we quickly ended up stuck in a patch of water-plants near the island. The eunuchs were really worried when they realized the launch couldn’t move forward, even with full power. The engineer appeared unsure about what to do. Her Majesty ordered the engines to be reversed, and they tried that, but it took a while before the launch finally moved. The Princesses and eunuchs got quite anxious, but Her Majesty was completely unbothered and laughed at their concerns for her safety. She said it wouldn’t be a big deal for her to walk over to the island; it would just mean one less pair of shoes! When the launch eventually moved, the Chief Eunuch, not wanting to risk another problem, wanted to tell the engineer to turn back; but Her Majesty wouldn’t hear of it and insisted on completing the trip as she originally intended. We had several other issues, and the launch ended up stuck again; no effort from the engineers or extra steam could get us free. Her Majesty maintained her good humor, had her barge brought up alongside, and we all got “transshipped.” We finished our tour on the lake as she had planned, but in the barge instead of the launch. She’s too smart not to use any means available to achieve her goals, and she’s clever enough to realize that these goals can be met, one way or another, before she commits to them.

The Emperor of China, with the usual Chinese tolerance,—and the Chinese are the most tolerant people in the world as to religious faith,—is not only 119 the head of one church, but of all the churches in China. He is, as Emperor, the Great High Priest of Heaven, the High Priest of Buddhism and Taoism, and is, of course, a Confucian; though this is a philosophy rather than a religion. But though a philosophy, there are certain rites and ceremonies observed by the Confucians. All the great ceremonies of the different cults are celebrated in the Palace temples with rigid impartiality and equal pomp. Whatever may be the individual leanings of the Emperor, and, of course, he must have his own preferences, he participates in each of these celebrations. But his official, public exercise of religion, is limited to the worship of Heaven and Earth, to which he makes annual public sacrifices in the Great Temple of Heaven at Peking.

The Emperor of China, with the typical Chinese tolerance—since the Chinese are the most accepting people in the world when it comes to religious beliefs—not only leads one church, but all the churches in China. As Emperor, he acts as the Great High Priest of Heaven, the High Priest of Buddhism and Taoism, and he is, of course, a Confucian, although that's more a philosophy than a religion. Still, there are specific rituals and ceremonies that Confucians follow. All the major ceremonies of the different faiths are held in the Palace temples with strict neutrality and equal grandeur. No matter what personal beliefs the Emperor might have—he must have his own preferences—he takes part in all these celebrations. However, his official public practice of religion is limited to the worship of Heaven and Earth, for which he performs annual public sacrifices at the Great Temple of Heaven in Beijing.

The afternoon of our first steam-launch excursion, finished in Her Majesty’s barge, there was a splendid ceremony in the chapel at the foot of the hill crowned with the Temple of the Ten Thousand Buddhas, to the memory of Confucius, the great Sage, whose philosophy has directed the lives and laws of the Chinese people for nearly twenty-five hundred years. Though a philosopher like Plato, he is appreciated and his teachings followed by the masses, as well as the classes, in China. He is not a religious leader but an ethical teacher, and though many temples have been erected to his memory, they are like Halls of Science and not temples to a divinity. There are no images either of Confucius or the Sages in these temples. They are classic halls, bare of all church-like ornamentation. Quotations from the “analects,” painted on scrolls, 120 cut into wood, and carved out of stone, adorn the walls, not only of the interiors of the temples, but of the courts and verandahs of the buildings. At the place where the altar would be in a temple, there is a plain niche, painted in red with a tablet bearing an inscription in gold, “The Seat of the Perfect One.” On either side are similar niches, containing the tablets of four other great Sages, among whom was Mencius. These semi-annual sacrifices are in commemoration of Confucius as an ethical teacher, a wise philosopher, a Sage. At this service in the Palace, the participants and celebrants were all in full Court dress. There was an address to the memory of the great Sage, with music and hymns; the latter were rhythmic verses, containing some truth inculcated by the Sage. There was an altar with a dragon table in front for offerings. There were sacrifices, incense, and music. The altar was rich with splendid vases, rare old bronze bowls, and incense-burners, and sweet with flowers and fruit. On the dragon table, which stood in front, were offerings of millet, meat, and wine. Tall cressets of open iron-work containing huge, burning pine-knots were placed in front of the raised platform, on which stood the altar, which was beautifully illuminated with tall candles in square, silver candelabra. The court in front of this temple, as well as the surrounding buildings, were hung with charming painted lanterns.

The afternoon of our first steam-launch trip, finished in Her Majesty’s barge, there was a grand ceremony in the chapel at the base of the hill topped with the Temple of the Ten Thousand Buddhas, honoring Confucius, the great Sage, whose philosophy has shaped the lives and laws of the Chinese people for nearly twenty-five hundred years. Like Plato, he's recognized as a philosopher, and his teachings are embraced by both the masses and the elite in China. He isn’t a religious leader but an ethical teacher, and although many temples have been built in his honor, they function more like Halls of Science than places of worship. There are no images of Confucius or the Sages in these temples. They are classic halls, devoid of any church-like decoration. Quotations from the “analects,” painted on scrolls, 120 carved into wood, and etched into stone, adorn the walls, not just inside the temples but also in the courtyards and verandas of the buildings. Instead of an altar typical in a temple, there’s a simple niche painted red with a tablet featuring a gold inscription, “The Seat of the Perfect One.” On either side are similar niches containing tablets of four other great Sages, including Mencius. These semi-annual ceremonies commemorate Confucius as an ethical teacher, a wise philosopher, a Sage. During this service in the Palace, all participants and celebrants wore full Court attire. There was a speech honoring the great Sage, accompanied by music and hymns; the hymns were rhythmic verses conveying truths taught by the Sage. An altar with a dragon table in front held offerings. There were sacrifices, incense, and music. The altar was adorned with splendid vases, rare old bronze bowls, and incense-burners, filled with fragrant flowers and fruit. On the dragon table in front were offerings of millet, meat, and wine. Tall cressets made of open ironwork containing large, burning pine knots were placed in front of the raised platform where the beautifully illuminated altar stood, surrounded by tall candles in square silver candelabras. The courtyard in front of this temple, as well as the surrounding buildings, were decorated with charming painted lanterns.

Their Majesties, with the Empress and Ladies, preceded and surrounded by eunuchs and officials, in full Court dress, went in ceremonious procession through the verandahed corridors, from Her Majesty’s Throne-room 121 to the temple. Their approach was accompanied by the slow beating of drums. When they reached the temple, three yellow cushions were placed on the paved floor for Their Majesties and the Empress, and red cushions for the Ladies. The music was played in rhythmic strains, while Their Majesties knelt and prostrated themselves three times; the Empress and Ladies doing likewise. The officials and other participants knelt outside in the court. When the prostrations were finished, a yellow chair was brought for the Empress Dowager. She sat during the rest of the service, but the Emperor, the Empress, and Ladies remained standing during the whole celebration. This consisted of a number of genuflexions and prostrations by the celebrants, and a moving about of the offerings on the dragon table in a ceremonious and reverent manner. The chief officiant read the address from a long scroll. After finishing it, he placed it on a casket on the altar. The first part of the ceremony took place inside the temple, then the celebrants went out into the court and intoned the six hymns and made renewed prostrations. I was not able to understand enough of the hymns, or to get them sufficiently translated to make out their meaning. They were all of uniform length. They were in praise of Confucius and were called “Odes to Peace.” When all the verses were intoned, the scroll with the address, some of each of the offerings, were placed in the huge iron incense-burner, that stood in the center of the outer court, and set on fire by the chief celebrant, while one of the several flagons of wine that had made part of the offerings was poured over the blaze.

Their Majesties, along with the Empress and the Ladies, followed by eunuchs and officials dressed in full Court attire, walked in a formal procession through the covered corridors from Her Majesty’s Throne room 121 to the temple. The sound of drums was played slowly as they approached. Upon reaching the temple, three yellow cushions were arranged on the stone floor for Their Majesties and the Empress, and red cushions for the Ladies. Music was played in a rhythmic manner while Their Majesties knelt and bowed three times, with the Empress and Ladies doing the same. The officials and other attendees knelt outside in the courtyard. Once the bowing was complete, a yellow chair was brought in for the Empress Dowager, who sat for the remainder of the service, while the Emperor, the Empress, and Ladies stayed standing throughout the ceremony. This included several genuflections and bows from the celebrants, along with a careful rearranging of the offerings on the dragon table in a formal and respectful way. The main officiant read a speech from a long scroll. After finishing, he placed it on a box on the altar. The first part of the ceremony took place inside the temple, then the celebrants exited to the courtyard to chant six hymns and perform additional bows. I couldn’t comprehend the hymns well enough or have them translated accurately to grasp their meaning. They were all the same length and praised Confucius, titled “Odes to Peace.” After all the verses were chanted, the scroll with the speech and some of each offering were placed in the large iron incense burner in the center of the outer courtyard and set on fire by the main celebrant, who also poured one of the wine flagons that were part of the offerings over the flames.

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I had not expected to enter the temple with Their Majesties and the Ladies, but when we reached the door, the Empress drew me in with her. They seemed to realize that I enjoyed seeing these celebrations and to perfectly understand my not taking any active part in them. I always remained standing, but I listened reverently to the intoning of the hymns and the reading of the address. I conducted myself as I would at any religious ceremony, and they seemed to appreciate it.

I didn't expect to go into the temple with Their Majesties and the Ladies, but when we got to the door, the Empress brought me in with her. They seemed to know that I loved watching these celebrations and fully understood why I didn't take an active role. I always stood quietly, but I listened attentively to the singing of the hymns and the reading of the address. I acted as I would at any religious ceremony, and they seemed to appreciate that.

When all was finished, Her Majesty told me to go up to the altar and examine the rare, old, bronze ornaments, the candelabra, etc. They explained to me that the address, which had been read, was burned, as it had filled its mission when it was read; that the ashes of a literary essay were a most fitting offering to the memory of Confucius, the great philosopher. When all was over, Their Majesties ordered the boats to come to the foot of the terrace, where the last part of the celebration had been made, and we returned to the Palace by way of the lake.

When everything was done, Her Majesty told me to go up to the altar and check out the rare, old bronze ornaments, the candelabras, and so on. They explained to me that the address, which had been read, was burned, as it had completed its purpose once it was read; that the ashes of a literary essay were a fitting tribute to the memory of Confucius, the great philosopher. Once everything was finished, Their Majesties ordered the boats to come to the foot of the terrace, where the final part of the celebration had taken place, and we returned to the Palace via the lake.

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CHAPTER XIV The Palace Eunuchs

The internal affairs of the Palace are managed by eunuchs, among whom there are all grades, all sorts and conditions. Some are clever literati given to study; some have the polished, insinuating manners of the courtier; some have a Mandarin rank of high degree; some are menials. There are actors and singers, cooks and gardeners, teachers and pupils, writers and readers. They occupy all sorts of positions, from Their Majesties’ body-guard to gate-keepers. In this hierarchy, Their Majesties’ Chief Eunuchs held the first place. Under each of these there are six eunuchs of high rank, all exceptionally clever, who have raised themselves to the positions they occupy in the Palace by their own efforts or by some special qualification.

The internal affairs of the Palace are run by eunuchs, who come in all ranks and types. Some are smart scholars who love to study; some have the smooth, charming manners of a courtier; some hold high-ranking Mandarin positions; and some are servants. There are actors and singers, cooks and gardeners, teachers and students, writers and readers. They fill all kinds of roles, from the royal bodyguards to gatekeepers. In this structure, the Chief Eunuchs of Their Majesties are at the top. Under each of these, there are six high-ranking eunuchs, all exceptionally intelligent, who have achieved their positions in the Palace through their own hard work or special skills.

Each of the hundreds of pavilions and palaces in the inclosures has a corps of eunuchs, presided over by a head eunuch. These act as guards to the premises, as well as servants, and keep things in readiness for a visit from Their Majesties. There is a head eunuch who directs the large corps of Palace gardeners; another who presides over the dozens of cooks in the Imperial kitchen; one is at the head of each of 124 the departments, and each of these head eunuchs, chiefs of the different departments, is under the jurisdiction of the Chief Eunuch, for Her Majesty’s Chief Eunuch may be called the real Chief Eunuch of the Palace. He is not only older than the Emperor’s Chief Eunuch, but is more capable. The two Chief Eunuchs, from their position near the sacred persons of Their Majesties, have unusual power. They may make or mar the career of the eunuchs beneath them; and they not only have this power inside the Palace, but from their exceptionally fine opportunities to present petitions, to speak for or against certain people, they also have a great deal of power with people outside the Palace. Her Majesty’s Chief Eunuch has almost the power in Peking, among officials and courtiers, that “Son Eminence Grise” had at the Court of Louis XIII of France. He is courted and fawned upon, receives magnificent presents, and nobles of high degree wait upon his pleasure; but while he occupies this high position with outsiders, in the Palace I saw no evidence of his having any unusual power with Her Majesty, beyond that of one who has been in the life-long service of his master and who has the privileges resulting therefrom.

Each of the hundreds of pavilions and palaces in the enclosures has a team of eunuchs, led by a head eunuch. They serve as guards and attendants, preparing for visits from Their Majesties. There's a head eunuch managing the large team of palace gardeners; another oversees the many cooks in the Imperial kitchen; one leads each of the departments, and all these heads of departments report to the Chief Eunuch, as Her Majesty's Chief Eunuch is essentially the real Chief Eunuch of the Palace. He not only has more experience than the Emperor's Chief Eunuch but is also more capable. The two Chief Eunuchs, due to their proximity to the royal family, hold significant power. They can make or break the careers of the eunuchs beneath them; their influence extends beyond the Palace, as they have unique opportunities to submit petitions and speak for or against certain people. Her Majesty’s Chief Eunuch wields almost the same power in Beijing among officials and courtiers that "Son Eminence Grise" had at the court of Louis XIII of France. He is sought after and flattered, receives lavish gifts, and nobles of high status cater to his desires. However, while he holds this esteemed position outside the Palace, I noticed no indication of him having any exceptional influence with Her Majesty, other than that of someone who has devoted their life to serving their master and enjoys the resulting privileges.

The peculiar position of a Chinese Emperor, which shuts him in his Palace like a Buddha in a temple, makes some sort of confidential private messenger an absolute necessity. There is much business of an unofficial kind, which must be transacted in a private way. The Chief Eunuchs are naturally called upon in such cases. When the Ruler of the Celestial Empire 125 is a woman, the Palace becomes more of a gilded prison, a shut-in shrine, than even in the case of an Emperor. She cannot see officials, or even members of the Imperial clan, except in the Audience Halls. Thus a Chief Eunuch under an Empress would have even greater power than under an Emperor; and in this instance, Her Majesty’s Chief Eunuch, Li Lien Ying, is really of exceptional ability!

The unique situation of a Chinese Emperor, which isolates him in his palace like a Buddha in a temple, makes having a confidential private messenger absolutely essential. There's a lot of unofficial business that needs to be handled discreetly. The Chief Eunuchs are naturally called upon in these situations. When the leader of the Celestial Empire is a woman, the palace turns into an even more gilded prison, a closed-off shrine, compared to when there’s a male Emperor. She can only meet with officials or even members of the Imperial family in the Audience Halls. Therefore, a Chief Eunuch serving an Empress wields even more power than one under an Emperor; in this case, Her Majesty’s Chief Eunuch, Li Lien Ying, truly stands out for his exceptional skills! 125

In person he is tall and thin. His head is, in type, like Savonarola’s. He has a Roman nose, a massive lean jaw, a protruding lower lip, and very shrewd eyes, full of intelligence, that shine out of sunken orbits. His face is much wrinkled and his skin like old parchment. Though only sixty years old, he looks seventy-five, and is the oldest eunuch in the Palace. He has been there since the age of ten. He has elegant, insinuating manners, speaks excellent Chinese—having a fine enunciation, a good choice of words, and a low, pleasant voice. If one may judge from appearances, he possesses ability in a marked degree. Of His Majesty’s Chief Eunuch I can say nothing. I only saw him on the days of the Theater, or some festival, when His Majesty passed the day with the Empress Dowager and the Ladies, when he was always accompanied by his suite.

In person, he is tall and thin. His head resembles Savonarola's. He has a Roman nose, a strong, lean jaw, a prominent lower lip, and very sharp eyes full of intelligence that shine out of sunken sockets. His face is quite wrinkled, and his skin is like old parchment. Even though he is only sixty years old, he looks seventy-five and is the oldest eunuch in the Palace. He has been there since he was ten. He has graceful, charming manners, speaks excellent Chinese—with clear enunciation, a good choice of words, and a low, pleasant voice. From appearances, he seems to have a significant amount of ability. I can’t say anything about His Majesty’s Chief Eunuch. I only saw him on Theater days or during festivals when His Majesty spent the day with the Empress Dowager and the Ladies, and he was always accompanied by his entourage.

Her Majesty’s second eunuch, Sui, who is of equal rank with Li Lien Ying, is as unlike him as two people could possibly be, both as to person, character, mental and moral nature. This one has none of the qualities of the intriguer—no Machiavellian schemes would be forwarded by him. He is almost a giant in size, tall and heavy. He is forty-six years old, and 126 has a round, full face, without a line—a typical Chinese face, as we know it from pictures, benevolent and kind. He, also, is a good Chinese scholar, and, of course, speaks it elegantly. Her Majesty will have no one around her person who does not speak it well. If it be true that Her Majesty, in choosing her ministers, tries to have them the opposites of each other, so that she may thus hear the different sides of a question and arrive at more just conclusions, her two Chief Eunuchs seem to have been chosen in the same way.

Her Majesty’s second eunuch, Sui, who holds the same rank as Li Lien Ying, is as different from him as two people could be, in terms of appearance, character, intellect, and morals. This eunuch lacks any of the traits of a schemer—he wouldn’t come up with any Machiavellian plots. He is almost giant-sized, tall and heavy. At forty-six years old, 126 he has a round, full face, completely smooth—an archetypal Chinese face, as we recognize it from pictures, warm and kind. He is also a proficient Chinese scholar and, naturally, speaks the language elegantly. Her Majesty insists on having no one around her who doesn't speak it well. If it's true that Her Majesty, in selecting her ministers, aims for them to be opposites of one another, so she can hear different perspectives and make more balanced decisions, then it seems she has chosen her two Chief Eunuchs in the same way.

There is a eunuch appointed to administer the punishment, ordered by Their Majesties for the eunuchs around their persons. For the higher eunuchs, this is generally the deprivation of a certain amount of their annual wages, or the loss of their buttons, for the buttons on the hats of Chinese denote their rank, and to be deprived of a button, or to have one of lower rank given, is considered a disgrace. I once saw Her Majesty very angry over the failure to carry out one of her orders, by two of the high eunuchs, and she ordered them to be deprived of two months’ pay. The head eunuchs of the different departments administer whatever punishment they see fit, to those over whom they are placed. This punishment is generally corporal. Sometimes they abuse their authority and are very cruel in administering this, but, as a rule, the eunuchs seem to be of a mild and peace-loving nature, rather than cruel and vindictive—inclined to condone the faults of their inferiors rather than punish them to the full extent of their authority. There seemed to be a feeling of “esprit 127 de corps” among them—a spirit of mutual helpfulness.

There is a eunuch assigned to carry out the punishment, as ordered by Their Majesties for the eunuchs around them. For the higher-ranking eunuchs, this usually means a cut in their annual pay or the loss of their buttons, as the buttons on Chinese hats signify their rank. Losing a button or getting one of a lower rank is seen as a disgrace. I once witnessed Her Majesty becoming very angry because two high eunuchs failed to follow one of her orders, and she ordered them to forfeit two months' pay. The head eunuchs in various departments impose whatever punishment they deem appropriate on those under their supervision. This punishment often involves corporal measures. Sometimes they misuse their power and can be quite cruel, but generally, the eunuchs appear to have a gentle and peace-loving demeanor rather than being cruel or vindictive—they tend to overlook the mistakes of their subordinates instead of administering the maximum punishment. There seemed to be a sense of camaraderie among them—a spirit of mutual support. 127

Each of the higher eunuchs has a number of pupils among the lower grades, who call him “Master,” and whom he trains in manners and teaches his own specialties. The higher eunuchs seemed to take the liveliest interest in the good conduct, and literary, or other, advancement of these pupils, and they push their interests with Their Majesties in every way possible—each one, of course, trying to advance his pupils beyond those of some other eunuch.

Each of the senior eunuchs has several students among the junior ranks, who refer to him as “Master,” and he trains them in etiquette and teaches his own specialties. The senior eunuchs show a keen interest in the good behavior, educational achievements, and other advancements of these students, and they advocate for their interests with the royals in every way they can—each one, of course, trying to help his students succeed more than those of another eunuch.

Her Majesty has a great horror of opium smoking. If a eunuch, however high his position, indulged in it, the severest punishments she ever ordered were administered. They were not only deprived of so many months’ pay and loss of their buttons, but were sometimes banished from the Palace for a certain length of time, and even severe corporal punishment would be ordered. These stringent measures did not prevent some of them, however, from indulging surreptitiously in the narcotic, but they took the most extreme precautions to prevent its being found out. Her Majesty has unusually acute olfactories, especially for opium. This, it seems, can be detected by its odor, which hangs around the clothes, and, like the odor of the rose, one “can break the vase, it lingers there still.” But it seems the eunuchs have special linen clothes, which they put on for smoking, and these are given to be washed, immediately the fascinating pipe is finished. Unless one is an habitual smoker, the drug has very little outward effect and, except by the odor, it cannot be detected.

Her Majesty has a strong aversion to opium smoking. If a eunuch, no matter how high his rank, engaged in it, he faced the harshest punishments she could impose. They not only lost several months’ pay and their insignia, but they were sometimes banished from the Palace for a period of time, and even faced severe physical punishment. Despite these strict measures, some still indulged in the narcotic in secret, taking extreme precautions to keep it hidden. Her Majesty has an unusually keen sense of smell, especially when it comes to opium. The scent can linger on clothing, just like the fragrance of a rose; “you can break the vase, it lingers there still.” However, it seems the eunuchs have special linen garments they wear for smoking, and these are sent to be washed as soon as they finish with the enticing pipe. Unless someone is a regular smoker, the drug has very little visible effect, and it can only be detected by the smell.

128 The eunuchs are very fond of all sorts of pets, and have in their quarters dogs without number, cats and birds. While the younger eunuchs generally depend for their advancement upon their teachers, who report favorably on them to Their Majesties, they sometimes attract the attention of Their Majesties, and may be raised out of their places by Imperial favor. Among the eunuchs assigned to my service in the Palace, was one who was fortunate enough to attract the Emperor’s notice. His Majesty had happened to notice him, carrying my wraps on one of the promenades with Her Majesty. He liked his face and manners and took him into his own service. The eunuch had a “button” bestowed on him and promised to mount very fast in grade. This eunuch had been in the Palace about fifteen years; and had His Majesty not happened to notice him, he might have lived and died in oblivion, and never had a button, for his “master” was dead and he had no protector to push his interests!

128 The eunuchs really love all kinds of pets and have countless dogs, cats, and birds in their quarters. While younger eunuchs typically rely on their teachers for advancement, as these teachers give positive reports to Their Majesties, they can sometimes catch the Emperor's eye and be promoted through Imperial favor. Among the eunuchs assigned to assist me in the Palace, there was one who was lucky enough to grab the Emperor’s attention. His Majesty noticed him while he was carrying my wraps during a stroll with Her Majesty. The Emperor liked his appearance and demeanor and brought him into his own service. The eunuch received a "button" as a mark of favor and was promised rapid promotion. He had been in the Palace for about fifteen years; if the Emperor hadn’t noticed him, he would have likely lived and died without recognition and never received a button, since his "master" was deceased and he had no one to advocate for him!

When one realizes that the Palaces of the Chinese Emperor are like towns, that their affairs are administered principally by the eunuchs, one can see there must be a good deal of intelligence among them, as well as great opportunities to add to their personal wealth.

When you understand that the Chinese Emperor's palaces are like small towns and that their management is mostly handled by the eunuchs, it’s clear that there's a lot of intelligence among them, along with significant chances to increase their personal wealth.

I heard, before I went into the Palace, of the great power and unscrupulousness of the Chief Eunuchs; that it would be necessary to be very conciliatory toward them and make them many handsome presents. I did not find it so. I never made an effort to conciliate any of them, nor gave any handsome presents, 129 and I found them all respectful, and I had every consideration shown me by them, and found them, on the whole, pleasant enough to deal with. Some of them were clever and interesting even, and they all had very good manners. In fact, I cannot too highly praise the manners of the Chinese, as a race. I quite concur in the opinion of a clever Frenchman, who said of China, “Aujourd’hui c’est là où les bonnes manières se sont refugiées.”

I heard before I entered the Palace about the immense power and ruthless nature of the Chief Eunuchs; that it would be essential to be very accommodating toward them and to give them plenty of valuable gifts. I didn’t find that to be the case. I never tried to ingratiate myself with any of them, nor did I give any significant gifts, 129 and I found them all to be respectful. They treated me with every consideration, and overall, I found them quite pleasant to interact with. Some were even clever and interesting, and they all had excellent manners. In fact, I can't praise the manners of the Chinese as a whole enough. I completely agree with a clever Frenchman who said of China, “Aujourd’hui c’est là où les bonnes manières se sont refugiées.”

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CHAPTER XV THE LITERARY INTERESTS AND ACHIEVEMENTS OF THE EMPRESS DOWAGER

When Her Majesty the Empress Dowager was Empress of the Western Palace, Co-Regent with the Empress of the Eastern Palace, who died in 1881, the Empress of the Eastern Palace was known as the “Literary Empress.” All State affairs were left to the stronger executive ability of the Empress of the Western Palace; while she of the Eastern Palace gave herself up to literary pursuits and led the life of a student. She was a woman of such fine literary ability that she, herself, sometimes examined the essays of the aspirants for the highest literary honors in the University of Peking. She was also a writer of distinction.

When Her Majesty the Empress Dowager was Empress of the Western Palace, serving alongside the Empress of the Eastern Palace, who passed away in 1881, the Empress of the Eastern Palace was referred to as the “Literary Empress.” All state affairs were handled by the more capable Empress of the Western Palace, while the Empress of the Eastern Palace dedicated herself to literary activities and lived like a student. She possessed such impressive literary talent that she occasionally evaluated the essays of candidates vying for the highest literary honors at the University of Peking. She was also a notable writer.

During the long Co-Regency of these two remarkable women, widows of the Emperor Hsien-Feng, one led the life of a student; the other, the active, militant life of the ruler. For the present Empress Dowager has been the real ruler of the great Chinese Empire for the last forty-five years. Had the Empress of the Eastern Palace not been such an exceptional light as a literary woman and had not Her Majesty, Tze-Hsi, possessed so many other and more remarkable qualities, 131 the latter’s name might also go down to history as a “literary Empress,” for the Empress Dowager has literary qualities of no mean kind. She writes a graceful poem, is able to express herself in elegant Chinese, as well as in the ruder, more forcible Manchu language. She can write in literary style, fine idiomatic Chinese, and this is a rare accomplishment for a woman. The written Chinese language is quite different from that spoken by even the most cultivated. Imagery and figure abound to such a degree, literary form is so important, that many fine scholars are unable to write the language acceptably, except for practical purposes. Aside from Her Majesty’s literary acquirements, she has an enlightened taste, is a great reader of the classics, and a fine critic. She also loves poems of heroic adventure. One of her favorite historical characters is the Chinese Jeanne d’Arc, the warlike Maiden, Whar-Mou-Lahn, who went forth to battle in masculine guise, had many heroic adventures in her twelve years’ service, and, through them all, remained a virgin pure.

During the lengthy Co-Regency of these two remarkable women, widows of Emperor Hsien-Feng, one lived the life of a scholar, while the other took on the active, assertive role of ruler. The current Empress Dowager has been the true leader of the vast Chinese Empire for the past forty-five years. If the Empress of the Eastern Palace hadn’t been such an exceptional literary figure and if Her Majesty, Tze-Hsi, didn't possess so many other outstanding qualities, 131 her name might have also been remembered as a “literary Empress,” because the Empress Dowager has notable literary talents. She composes graceful poetry and can express herself in elegant Chinese, as well as the more forceful Manchu language. She can write in a literary style and in refined, idiomatic Chinese, which is a rare skill for a woman. The written Chinese language is quite different from how even the most educated speak. It’s rich with imagery and figures of speech, and literary form is so critical that many distinguished scholars struggle to write it well, except for practical purposes. In addition to her literary skills, she has discerning taste, is an avid reader of the classics, and is an insightful critic. She also enjoys poems about heroic adventures. One of her favorite historical figures is the Chinese Jeanne d’Arc, the warrior Maiden, Whar-Mou-Lahn, who fought in men’s clothing, had many heroic experiences during her twelve years of service, and remained pure and untouched throughout.

The Empress Dowager has a wonderful verbal memory. Memory, so highly esteemed by the Chinese, is most carefully cultivated, and is generally better developed with them than with us. Her Majesty’s memory is, however, considered exceptional, even among the Chinese. She can repeat pages, not only of the classics, but of her favorite authors. One of the widows of her son (the Emperor Tung-Chih), who came regularly every week to pay her respects to Her Majesty, is a very clever woman and a great favorite of her august mother-in-law. This lady also possesses 132 a remarkable memory. On her visits to the Palace I used to hear Her Majesty and this Empress quoting from some of their favorite classics or poems. The quotations would pass from one to another, sometimes for a half-hour without stopping, and, at times, they would repeat in concert some favorite phrase. I will never forget how they looked: Her Majesty sitting at her Throne-table with her flowers or some light occupation, her daughter-in-law standing beside her, each of their faces lighted up with pleasure as they repeated line after line.

The Empress Dowager has an amazing verbal memory. Memory, which is highly valued by the Chinese, is carefully nurtured, and tends to be better developed among them than among us. Her Majesty’s memory is considered exceptional, even by Chinese standards. She can recite pages not only from the classics but also from her favorite authors. One of the widows of her son (Emperor Tung-Chih), who came to pay her respects every week, is a very intelligent woman and a favorite of her respected mother-in-law. This lady also has a great memory. During her visits to the Palace, I used to hear Her Majesty and this Empress quoting from their favorite classics or poems. They would exchange quotes back and forth for sometimes half an hour without a break, and occasionally they would recite some favorite lines together. I will never forget how they looked: Her Majesty sitting at her Throne-table with flowers or some light activity, her daughter-in-law standing beside her, both of their faces glowing with joy as they recited line after line.

When the Empress Dowager went to her own apartments for her “siesta,” her reader would come bringing volumes of her favorite authors. Some days I could hear his voice rising and falling in regular cadence during the whole time she was resting in her apartments. When she was particularly interested in what had been read to her she would have the book taken out when she went for her daily promenade and would sit and read as she was carried along in her open chair, or was rowed along on the barge. This did not often happen, however, for she took such keen delight in all its manifestations, she preferred to read in Nature’s book when out-of-doors.

When the Empress Dowager went to her own rooms for her "nap," her reader would come with volumes of her favorite authors. Some days, I could hear his voice rising and falling in a steady rhythm the entire time she was resting. When she was particularly interested in what was read to her, she would have the book taken out for her daily walk and would sit reading as she was carried along in her open chair or rowed along on the barge. However, this didn’t happen often, as she took such great pleasure in all its forms; she preferred to read from Nature’s book when outdoors.

She is a great lover of the theater and prefers the classic, the old plays, to the modern Chinese drama. She had one new play staged, while I was in the Palace, with which she seemed to be much pleased. She studied the play for several days before it was given for the first time, and, at the first representation, she followed every line with intense interest. She sent her eunuchs several times to the stage to suggest 133 changes in the rendering of certain parts and in the interpretation of certain lines. The Theater generally begins with a short play, which is often a light farce. She seemed sometimes to enjoy these very much and would laugh heartily at the good hits, which were often original additions by the actors, allusions to some passing event. Contrary to my preconceived idea as to the Chinese, they are witty and appreciate humor in others. The Empress Dowager has a fine sense of humor. She not only sees the point of a joke, but she can turn one very cleverly herself.

She loves the theater and prefers classic plays over modern Chinese dramas. She had a new play staged while I was at the Palace, and she seemed really pleased with it. She studied the script for several days before its premiere, and during the first performance, she followed every line with great interest. She sent her eunuchs to the stage several times to suggest changes in the delivery of certain parts and the interpretation of some lines. The theater usually starts with a short play, often a light farce. She sometimes enjoyed these quite a bit and would laugh heartily at the clever moments, which were often original additions by the actors and references to current events. Contrary to my initial thoughts about the Chinese, they are witty and appreciate humor in others. The Empress Dowager has a great sense of humor. She not only gets the point of a joke but can also deliver one very cleverly herself. 133

She is very particular about the way Chinese is spoken, a great stickler for purity of expression and elegance of style. There are as many dialects in China as there are Provinces in the Great Empire; and although the literati and gentry speak, what is called Mandarin Chinese, some of the most highly educated of the literati from the Provinces speak it with an accent. Her Majesty, who has a musical ear and great discernment as to sounds, gets very impatient when listening to Chinese spoken with an accent. It is said, other things being not quite equal, she will give the preference, in an appointment, to an official who speaks perfect Chinese and who has a good voice, especially if his office brings him often into the Presence. However, particular as she is, bad Chinese in a man of merit is not a bar to advancement, for Li-Hung-Chang, whom she appreciated so highly, and to whom she gave such preferment, is said to have spoken very indifferent Chinese.

She is very particular about how Chinese is spoken, a real stickler for purity of expression and elegance of style. There are as many dialects in China as there are provinces in the vast Empire; and while the literati and gentry speak what is known as Mandarin Chinese, some of the most highly educated among them from the provinces have an accent when they speak it. Her Majesty, who has a musical ear and a sharp sense for sounds, becomes quite impatient when listening to Chinese spoken with an accent. It’s said that when everything else is equal, she prefers to appoint an official who speaks flawless Chinese and has a good voice, especially if his job often brings him into her Presence. However, despite her high standards, poor Chinese from a capable person doesn’t hinder advancement, as Li-Hung-Chang, whom she valued greatly and promoted, is said to have spoken very poor Chinese.

Whether it be, that Her Majesty’s musical and exquisitely modulated voice, so fresh and silvery, so 134 youthful, adds to the charm of her Chinese, when she speaks it, it sounds like beautiful rhythmic poetry. She speaks it so graphically, with such expression and graceful gestures, that it charms one even who does not understand the language.

Whether it’s Her Majesty’s musical and beautifully modulated voice, so fresh and silvery, so 134 youthful, that adds to the charm of her Chinese, when she speaks it, it sounds like beautiful rhythmic poetry. She speaks it so vividly, with such expression and graceful gestures, that it captivates even those who don’t understand the language.

One day when she was out for a walk, one of the directors of the gardeners was brought up to explain something to her, some change in the laying out of new flower beds. She listened a few moments, but I saw her frown and begin to look impatient. After a few more words from the poor man, who was evidently overcome by timidity and probably speaking worse Chinese than usual, Her Majesty turned to the Chief Eunuch and said, “Let him tell you and you can translate to me; I can’t stand any more of that language,” and she walked away, still frowning.

One day while she was out for a walk, one of the garden directors was called over to explain something to her about changes in the layout of new flower beds. She listened for a moment, but I noticed her frown and start to look impatient. After a few more words from the poor man, who was clearly overwhelmed with nerves and probably speaking worse Chinese than usual, Her Majesty turned to the Chief Eunuch and said, “Let him tell you, and you can translate for me; I can't take any more of that language,” and she walked away, still frowning.

Another day, I heard the Empress Dowager tell one of the Ladies at Court (her daughter-in-law), who was also a great purist in the matter of language, about her own Chinese having been misunderstood by one of the eunuchs. There are many Chinese words almost exactly alike in sound, which are only differentiated by the inflection or tone. Thus there must be great accuracy of enunciation, and there must also be great accuracy of ear. Her Majesty had given an order to one of the eunuchs. The stupid fellow had misunderstood the inflection and had done the exact opposite. She was so amused and astonished, when she found that her tone had been misunderstood, that she did not reprove him for his stupidity.

Another day, I overheard the Empress Dowager telling one of the Ladies at Court (her daughter-in-law), who was also very particular about language, about how one of the eunuchs misunderstood her Chinese. There are many Chinese words that sound almost identical, which are only distinguished by their inflection or tone. This means precise pronunciation is crucial, as is having a good ear. Her Majesty had given an order to one of the eunuchs, but the clueless guy misunderstood the tone and ended up doing the exact opposite. She was so amused and surprised when she realized that her tone had been misunderstood that she didn't scold him for his foolishness.

One day, she corrected one of the Princesses for the pronunciation of a word, and she said (in an aside) 135 it was not strange this Princess did not speak better, for her father’s Chinese was “execrable,” thus showing that even Princes do not always speak the language correctly.

One day, she corrected one of the princesses on how to pronounce a word, and she said (as a side note) 135 it wasn’t surprising that this princess didn’t speak better, since her father’s Chinese was “terrible,” proving that even princes don’t always speak the language correctly.

One of the most precious gifts the Empress Dowager makes, and which is sacredly treasured by its recipients, is a scroll with a single great character written upon it by Her Majesty’s own hand. This is considered one of the most difficult feats of a Chinese writer. These characters are sometimes four feet long. One day we were invited to go into the Throne-room to see Her Majesty make some of these characters. When I went into the Great Hall, Her Majesty and the Ladies were already there. She was stirring a great bowl of India ink, for she is very particular as to its consistency and fluidity. When the ink suited her, she took from a eunuch standing near, who held a number, a huge short-handled brush, which she could hardly clasp in her small hand. She tried two or three, before she found one that pleased her, and, turning to me, said, “You see I also have my choice in brushes.” I asked Lady Yu-Keng to tell her that I thought her large brushes were more suitable for my hands and that my smaller ones would have been more appropriate for her. She laughingly replied she preferred the Chinese brush, and that her hands, small as they were, were able to wield it very satisfactorily, which was no vain boast.

One of the most valuable gifts the Empress Dowager gives, and which is deeply cherished by its recipients, is a scroll with a single large character written by Her Majesty’s own hand. This is considered one of the toughest accomplishments for a Chinese writer. These characters can be as long as four feet. One day, we were invited into the Throne Room to watch Her Majesty create some of these characters. When I entered the Great Hall, Her Majesty and the Ladies were already there. She was mixing a large bowl of India ink, as she is very particular about its consistency and fluidity. Once the ink met her standards, she took a huge short-handled brush from a eunuch who was holding several, a brush that she could barely grasp in her small hand. After trying two or three brushes, she found one that pleased her, and turning to me, she said, “You see I also have my choice in brushes.” I asked Lady Yu-Keng to convey that I thought her large brushes were better suited for my hands and that my smaller ones would have been more fitting for her. She laughed and said she preferred the Chinese brush, and that her hands, despite being small, could wield it very effectively, which was no empty boast.

When all was ready, and the huge scroll spread out before her on a table, she dipped her brush into the bowl of ink, held by the eunuch, and began the first stroke of one of these famous characters, in which 136 she is said to equal the most proficient writers in China. I was amazed to see the firmness of her wrist and the beautiful clearness of her stroke, which deviated not a hair’s breadth from the line she wished to follow. She made six great characters on six of the scrolls. These characters meant “Peace,” “Prosperity,” “Longevity,” etc. When she had finished these, she said she feared her hand had no longer the firmness necessary for doing another.

When everything was set, and the large scroll laid out in front of her on a table, she dipped her brush into the ink bowl held by the eunuch and started the first stroke of one of those famous characters, in which 136 she was said to be as skilled as the best writers in China. I was amazed to see how steady her wrist was and how clear her stroke was, staying perfectly on course. She created six large characters on six of the scrolls. These characters represented “Peace,” “Prosperity,” “Longevity,” and so on. When she finished, she mentioned that she worried her hand no longer had the steadiness needed to do another.

While she was writing, the young Empress, the Princesses, and the eunuchs stood around, watching her with intense interest. They seemed to take great pride in her firmness of touch and her accuracy of line.

While she was writing, the young Empress, the Princesses, and the eunuchs gathered around, watching her with great interest. They appeared to take a lot of pride in her confident touch and her precision with the lines.

The Chinese written character must be made in a certain way. It must begin at a given part. The strokes must follow a given direction. The transversal strokes must be placed with mathematical precision. Nothing is left to the caprice or individuality of the writer. Any one, knowing the Chinese written characters, can tell you whether these complicated hieroglyphs were begun at the proper place or made in the proper way. They may look perfectly correct to the uninitiated observer who has a most accurate eye, and still not be so considered by the connoisseur.

The Chinese character has to be written in a specific way. It needs to start at a precise point. The strokes must follow a defined direction. The horizontal strokes must be positioned with exact precision. There’s no room for personal style or creativity from the writer. Anyone who knows Chinese characters can tell you if these complex symbols were started in the right spot or made correctly. They might look completely right to someone who doesn’t know much about it and has a keen eye, but they still might not meet the standards of an expert.

THE EMPRESS DOWAGER WRITING A “GREAT CHARACTER”

The firmness of Her Majesty’s touch is also very apparent in her painting, for she is very artistic, and paints flowers in a charming way; in fact, she is remarkably clever with her fingers. She does not embroider now, as she formerly did, nor does she paint so much, for she says her eyes are not so good as they were, though she does not and has never 137 worn glasses. There are a great number of artificial flowers made in the Palace, as no Manchu lady’s coiffure is considered complete without flowers. Her Majesty is very particular about the way these flowers are made, and when they were brought to her for inspection, with a deft touch she would give a defective flower the required form.

The strength of Her Majesty’s touch is also very clear in her painting, as she has a real talent for it, painting flowers in a delightful way; in fact, she’s quite skilled with her hands. She doesn’t embroider now like she used to, nor does she paint as much, because she says her eyesight isn’t as good as it once was, even though she has never worn glasses. There are a lot of artificial flowers made in the Palace, since no Manchu lady’s hairstyle is considered complete without them. Her Majesty is very particular about how these flowers are made, and when they were presented to her for inspection, she would skillfully reshape any defective flower into the right form. 137

She often makes new designs for the flowers, having them woven into quaint figures, or having a number of small blooms made into a representation of some large flower. She sometimes had her diadem made of the snowy blooms of the fragrant jasmine, set with leaves and other small flowers, representing jewels, and she would wear this instead of her real jewels.

She often creates new designs for the flowers, arranging them into charming shapes or combining several small blooms to create a larger flower representation. Sometimes, she has her tiara made from the white blossoms of fragrant jasmine, accented with leaves and other small flowers to mimic jewels, and she wears this instead of her actual jewelry.

She is a great believer in one of the rules that Confucius lays down for the attainment of “Illustrious Virtue”; she “cultivates her person.” She is always immaculately neat. She designs her own dresses, and has her jewels set according to her own directions. She is very artistic in the arrangement of her flowers and jewels, and sees that they harmonize with her toilet. She has excellent taste in the choice of colors, and I never saw her with an unbecoming color on, except the Imperial yellow. This was not becoming, but she was obliged to wear it on all official occasions. She used to modify it, as much as possible, by the trimmings, and would sometimes have it so heavily embroidered that the original color was hardly visible.

She strongly believes in one of the principles Confucius laid out for achieving “Illustrious Virtue”; she “cultivates herself.” She is always perfectly clean and tidy. She designs her own dresses and has her jewelry arranged according to her own preferences. She has a great eye for arranging her flowers and jewelry, making sure they match her outfit. Her taste in colors is excellent, and I’ve never seen her in an unflattering color, except for Imperial yellow. That color didn’t suit her, but she had to wear it on all official occasions. She would try to soften it as much as possible with the trimmings and would sometimes have it so heavily embroidered that the original color was barely noticeable.

She is a great epicure, and often designs new and dainty dishes. She has perfumes and soaps for her 138 own use, made in the Palace. Although there are quantities of French and German soaps and perfumes bought for the Palace, she prefers an almond paste that she has made and often uses the soap made in the Palace. The maids would make these under her supervision. I have frequently seen them bring the mortar in which they were stirring it to Her Majesty, that she might see its progress, and she would energetically stir it herself. She is also a great lover of perfumes, and herself combines the oils of different flowers so as to produce most subtle and delightful perfumes. The Chinese say “colors, odors, and perfumes are good for the soul.” The Empress Dowager’s soul was certainly well cared for in this respect.

She has a refined taste and often creates new and exquisite dishes. She uses perfumes and soaps made in the Palace just for herself. Even though there are plenty of French and German soaps and perfumes purchased for the Palace, she prefers a homemade almond paste and often opts for the soap produced there. The maids make these products under her guidance. I've often seen them bring the mortar they used to mix the paste to Her Majesty so she could check on its progress, and she would enthusiastically stir it herself. She is also passionate about perfumes and blends oils from different flowers to create subtle and delightful scents. The Chinese say, "colors, odors, and perfumes are good for the soul." The Empress Dowager’s soul was certainly well taken care of in this regard. 138

The Chinese are so near to nature, so simple in every way, that their influence over animals and birds is extraordinary, and seems to us almost magical. They are very fond of all animals, and especially so of birds. They train and teach these latter in wonderful ways. I have often seen a Chinese go near a singing bird’s cage and tell it to sing, and it would pour forth its little heart in melody. Birds never seem to have any fear of them. In the afternoons, in early spring, or on a fine day in winter, one may see hundreds of well-dressed and dignified men each carrying a covered bird cage, taking the birds out for the air. When they arrive at some open space in the city, or beautiful spot in the environs, they uncover the cages and hold them aloft, or simply sit with them on their knees, and the bird will sing as if its little throat would burst. They have absolutely no fear, and, though caged, seem to have a perfect 139 understanding with their owners and obey their voices. They are often let out of the cages when taken out for exercise, but they will return to them at the call of their owners; and these birds are not hatched in cages—they are taken from the forests and trained.

The Chinese have a deep connection to nature and a simplicity that allows them to have an extraordinary influence over animals and birds, which almost seems magical to us. They are very fond of all animals, especially birds. They train and teach birds in amazing ways. I've often seen a Chinese person approach a singing bird's cage and ask it to sing, and it would happily burst into melody. The birds never seem to fear them. In the afternoons, during early spring, or on a nice winter day, you can see hundreds of well-dressed and dignified men, each carrying a covered bird cage, taking the birds out for fresh air. Once they reach an open space in the city or a beautiful spot nearby, they uncover the cages and hold them up high or sit with them on their laps, and the birds sing as if their little throats might burst. They have no fear at all, and even though they are caged, they seem to have a complete understanding with their owners and respond to their voices. They're often let out of their cages for some exercise, but they will return when called by their owners; these birds aren’t bred in cages—they are taken from the forests and trained. 139

Two of the religious precepts of the Chinese—“Hurt no living thing,” “Protect all living things”—are carried so far, they will allow an animal to live in misery rather than put him out of it by a speedy death. They love all animals and fear none. They say if you do not attack an animal, however dangerous he is, he will not harm you.

Two of the beliefs of the Chinese—“Don’t hurt any living thing,” “Protect all living things”—are taken so seriously that they would rather let an animal suffer than end its pain with a quick death. They have a deep love for all animals and no fear of them. They believe that if you don’t provoke an animal, no matter how dangerous it is, it won’t harm you.

The Empress Dowager seemed also to possess this almost magical power over animals. Her dogs never paid the slightest attention but to her voice, and would obey her slightest gesture; but, fond as she was of them, she rarely caressed them; and she was so particular about her hands that, when she did stroke or fondle one of her pets, she would immediately after have a cloth wrung out of hot water brought to wipe her fingers. I never saw a dog in her arms but once, and this was a puppy which she took a fancy to when visiting her kennels one day, and she brought him back to the Throne-room in her arms and played with him for some time.

The Empress Dowager seemed to have this almost magical connection with animals. Her dogs only listened to her voice and would follow her every little command; however, even though she loved them, she rarely petted them. She was very particular about her hands, so when she did stroke or play with one of her pets, she would immediately ask for a cloth soaked in hot water to wipe her fingers. I only saw her hold a dog once, and that was a puppy she liked during a visit to her kennels. She carried him back to the Throne-room and played with him for a while.

On one of our promenades in the park I saw a curious instance of her wonderful personal magnetism and her power over animals. A bird had escaped from its cage, and some eunuchs were making efforts to catch it, when Her Majesty and suite came into that part of the grounds. The eunuchs had found it 140 impossible to entice the bird back into its cage; nor would it come upon a long stick with a perch attached, which they held up near the tree where it rested. The eunuchs scattered at the approach of Her Majesty, and she inquired the cause of their being here. The Chief Eunuch explained what they were doing, and the Empress Dowager said, “I will call it down.” I thought this was a vain boast, and in my heart I pitied her. She was so accustomed to have the whole world bow to her, she fancied even a bird in the grounds would obey her mandates, and I watched to see how she would take her defeat. She had a long, wand-like stick, which had been cut from a sapling and freshly stripped of its bark. She loved the faint forest odor of these freshly cut sticks, and in the spring often had one when she went out. They were long and slender, with a crook at the top. I used to think she looked like the pictures of fairies when she walked with these long, white wands. She would use them for pointing out a flower she wished the eunuchs to gather, or for tracing designs on the gravel when she sat down. To-day she held the wand she carried aloft and made a low, bird-like sound with her lips, never taking her eyes off the bird. She had the most musical of voices, and its flute-like sound seemed like a magical magnet to the bird. He fluttered and began to descend from bough to bough until he lighted upon the crook of her wand, when she gently moved her other hand up nearer and nearer, until it finally rested on her finger!

During one of our walks in the park, I witnessed a striking example of her amazing personal charm and her influence over animals. A bird had escaped from its cage, and some eunuchs were trying to catch it when Her Majesty and her entourage arrived in that area of the grounds. The eunuchs had found it impossible to coax the bird back into its cage, nor would it come down to the long stick with a perch they held up near the tree where it perched. The eunuchs scattered as Her Majesty approached, and she asked why they were there. The Chief Eunuch explained their situation, and the Empress Dowager said, “I will call it down.” I thought this was a futile claim, and inside, I felt sorry for her. She was so used to having everyone bow to her that she believed even a bird in the garden would follow her commands, and I waited to see how she would react to her failure. She held a long, wand-like stick, cut from a sapling and freshly stripped of its bark. She loved the faint scent of the fresh-cut sticks, and in spring, she often carried one when she went out. They were long and slender, with a crook at the top. I used to think she looked like the illustrations of fairies when she walked with those long, white wands. She would use them to point out a flower she wanted the eunuchs to pick or to trace designs in the gravel when she sat down. Today, she held the wand high and made a soft, bird-like sound with her lips, never taking her eyes off the bird. She had the most beautiful voice, and its flute-like tone seemed to act like a magical lure to the bird. He fluttered and began to move down from branch to branch until he landed on the crook of her wand, at which point she gently moved her other hand closer and closer until it finally rested on her finger! 140

The Empress Dowager at the Summer Palace

THE EMPRESS DOWAGER IN THE GARDENS OF THE SUMMER PALACE—CALLING A BIRD

I had been watching with breathless attention, and so tense and absorbed had I become that the sudden 141 cessation, when the bird finally came upon her finger, caused me a throb of almost pain. No one else, however, of her entourage seemed to think this anything extraordinary. After a few moments she handed the bird to one of the eunuchs, and we continued on our promenade.

I had been watching with intense focus, and I was so tense and absorbed that when the bird finally landed on her finger, the sudden stop made me feel a jolt of near pain. However, no one else in her group seemed to find this unusual. After a moment, she passed the bird to one of the eunuchs, and we kept walking.

I saw another instance of her magnetic power, this time with a katydid. One of the Princesses, seeing one on a bush, tried to catch it, but in vain. Her Majesty held out her hand toward the beautiful insect, made a peculiar sound like their own cry, and advanced her outstretched finger until it rested upon it. She stroked it gently for a few moments, and then removed her fingers, and the katydid made no effort to fly until she put it down!

I witnessed another example of her captivating ability, this time with a katydid. One of the Princesses spotted one on a bush and tried to catch it, but was unsuccessful. Her Majesty extended her hand toward the beautiful insect, made a sound that mimicked their own call, and carefully moved her outstretched finger until it rested on it. She gently stroked it for a little while, and then withdrew her fingers, yet the katydid didn’t attempt to fly away until she set it down!

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CHAPTER XVI THE GREAT AUDIENCE HALL—SOME OFFICIAL CUSTOMS

When His Majesty the Emperor reigned alone, he was in the habit of holding his Audiences as early as three o’clock A.M. It is said, however, that this custom was owing as much to his personal shyness as to his love of early rising, for at these Audiences he would allow but two candles on the Throne-table in front of him, and the Great Hall was lighted elsewhere only by the beautiful Chinese lanterns, which shine with but a dim brilliancy and are not very effective as lights. Thus his face could not be seen if an official should so forget the Proprieties as to raise his eyes to the Imperial Person.

When the Emperor ruled alone, he would hold his audiences as early as 3 a.m. However, it's said that this habit was as much due to his personal shyness as it was to his love for waking up early. During these audiences, he allowed only two candles on the throne table in front of him, and the Great Hall was lit elsewhere only by the beautiful Chinese lanterns, which glowed dimly and weren’t very effective as lighting. Because of this, his face couldn't be seen if an official happened to forget the proper etiquette and looked up at the Emperor.

Their Majesties’ Audiences are held in the Great Audience Hall, a detached building apart and quite distinct from all the other buildings of the Palace inclosure. The inscription over its great doors points out that it is the “Hall where Industry is to be applied to State Affairs.” In all the Palaces the Audience Hall is nearest the outside walls and entrances, so that the officials who are privileged to have Audiences must only pass through the outer courts to reach the hall—Their Majesties’ Palaces with their private apartments 143 being at some distance beyond. At the Winter Palace, where there are so many walls within walls, each of Their Majesties’ Palaces is surrounded with walls, and the Audience Hall is also in a walled-in inclosure near one of the Great Gates, but at the Summer Palace there are no walls except the exterior ones!

Their Majesties' Audiences take place in the Great Audience Hall, a separate building distinct from the other structures within the Palace grounds. The inscription above its large doors indicates that it is the “Hall where Industry is to be applied to State Affairs.” In all the Palaces, the Audience Hall is closest to the outer walls and entrances, so the officials who are allowed to have Audiences only need to go through the outer courtyards to get to the hall—Their Majesties' Palaces with their private quarters being situated further back. At the Winter Palace, which has numerous walls within walls, each of Their Majesties' Palaces is enclosed by walls, and the Audience Hall is also within a walled area close to one of the Great Gates, but at the Summer Palace, there are no walls except for the outer ones! 143

The interior of the Audience Hall, at the Summer Palace, is not by any means bare or austere. It is furnished in the same style as the Throne-rooms, with splendid ornaments, curios, tea-tables and chairs, and, curious anachronism, there are here three pianos! The walls are hung with ornamental scrolls, as well as with those bearing some gigantic character traced by an Emperor’s hand or some condensed bit of philosophy of the Sages. One of these scrolls has an admonition to the Emperor to remember that “he is responsible to Heaven for the happiness and prosperity of his people.”

The interior of the Audience Hall at the Summer Palace is anything but empty or simple. It's furnished in the same style as the Throne Rooms, filled with beautiful decorations, interesting collectibles, tea tables, and chairs. Interestingly, there are three pianos here! The walls are decorated with ornamental scrolls, along with those featuring large characters written by an Emperor’s hand or some concise wisdom from the Sages. One of these scrolls advises the Emperor to remember that “he is responsible to Heaven for the happiness and prosperity of his people.”

There is a great dais in the center of the hall, on which stands the Throne, with its table, behind which is the three-, five-, or seven-leaved screen. The ancient dais was lower than those now used, and the antique Throne, with its capacious size and cushions, was more like a lounge than the modern Throne. This seems to indicate that the administration of justice by the Emperor was in ancient times less formal and more patriarchal than to-day. In former times the Emperor could lounge upon his Throne at his ease when seeing his Ministers, and they could approach nearer the Sacred Person, as the dais was not so large nor so high as that in use to-day.

There’s a large platform in the middle of the hall, on which the Throne sits, accompanied by its table, and behind it is a three-, five-, or seven-leaf screen. The old platform was lower than the ones used now, and the antique Throne, with its spacious size and cushions, resembled more of a lounge than today’s Throne. This suggests that the way the Emperor administered justice in ancient times was less formal and more patriarchal than it is today. In the past, the Emperor could relax on his Throne comfortably while meeting with his Ministers, who could get closer to the Sacred Person, as the platform wasn’t as large or high as the ones being used now.

Heads of departments and Princes with honorary 144 official positions have Audiences on certain days of the month, to report upon affairs of their Boards or to pay their respects to His Majesty. Every day Their Majesties hold Audience and see the Prime Minister and Grand Secretary, and there are frequent meetings of the Grand Council. The Prime Minister, Prince Ching, has the last Audience of the day, and business reported on during the other Audiences is then discussed.

Heads of departments and princes with honorary official positions have audiences on certain days of the month to report on their boards’ matters or to show their respect to His Majesty. Each day, Their Majesties hold an audience to meet with the Prime Minister and Grand Secretary, and there are frequent meetings of the Grand Council. The Prime Minister, Prince Ching, has the last audience of the day, where business discussed in the earlier audiences is reviewed.

All telegrams and despatches go to their respective Boards, and are, except in cases of extreme gravity, only reported to Their Majesties at the Audiences. After eleven all State business is supposed to be finished by Their Majesties. They are then free from State worries and cares until the following day. During the times of the rebellion in the Province of Kwang-Si, when the Russian evacuation of Manchuria was expected, and at the time of outbreak of hostilities in Manchuria (the three grave events occurring during my stay in the Palace), telegrams and despatches were constantly being sent to Her Majesty out of Audience hours. They were brought to her Throne-room, and sometimes even during her walks in the gardens they would be handed her. These despatches were sent over to the Palace from the Wai-Wu-Pu on their arrival. Of course, it was by Her Majesty’s express command that her privacy was thus infringed upon. No official would otherwise have dared transgress the prescribed rules. The despatches were received at the entrance of the Palace by the eunuch whose province it was. He placed them in the yellow-covered, silken-lined box, in which they were presented to Her Majesty on bended knees.

All telegrams and messages go to their respective Boards and, except in very serious situations, are only reported to Their Majesties during the Audiences. After eleven, it's assumed that Their Majesties have finished all State business for the day. They are then free from State worries and concerns until the next day. During the rebellion in the Province of Kwang-Si, when the Russian evacuation of Manchuria was anticipated, and during the outbreak of hostilities in Manchuria (the three major events that happened while I was at the Palace), telegrams and messages were frequently sent to Her Majesty outside of Audience hours. They were delivered to her Throne-room, and sometimes even handed to her during her walks in the gardens. These messages were sent to the Palace from the Wai-Wu-Pu upon their arrival. Clearly, it was by Her Majesty’s explicit command that her privacy was interrupted in this way. No official would have dared to break the established rules otherwise. The messages were received at the entrance of the Palace by the eunuch in charge. He placed them in the yellow-covered, silken-lined box, which was presented to Her Majesty on bended knees.

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In front of the Throne dais, during the hours of Audience, there are five cushions placed on the floor for the members of the Grand Council to kneel upon when they are memorializing Their Majesties. The Prime Minister’s cushion is nearest the Throne. A cushion to kneel upon is a privilege only granted members of the Grand Council. Any other official, when making communications to Their Majesties, must kneel upon the bare marble floor, and must kneel beyond the space occupied by these five cushions. He is thus placed at a disadvantage. The distance at which he is from Their Majesties may prevent his hearing some of their words, especially the Emperor’s, whose voice is very low and without any carrying quality. The official may overcome this difficulty and shorten the distance by paying the eunuch who conducts him to the Audience Hall, to remove some of the cushions, so that he may kneel nearer the dais. The Prime Minister’s and Grand Secretary’s cushions may on no condition be removed, but the other three are subject to the will of the introducing eunuch. If this latter be sufficiently paid, and there is a fixed price for each cushion, he will remove the three of the lower members of the Cabinet.

In front of the throne dais, during audience hours, there are five cushions on the floor for the Grand Council members to kneel on when they pay their respects to Their Majesties. The Prime Minister’s cushion is closest to the throne. Kneeling on a cushion is a privilege reserved for Grand Council members. Any other official addressing Their Majesties must kneel on the bare marble floor and beyond the area with the five cushions, putting them at a disadvantage. The distance from Their Majesties might prevent them from hearing some of their words, especially the Emperor’s, whose voice is very soft and not very audible. The official can deal with this issue by tipping the eunuch who leads them to the Audience Hall to remove some of the cushions, allowing them to kneel closer to the dais. The Prime Minister’s and Grand Secretary’s cushions cannot be removed under any circumstances, but the other three can be adjusted at the discretion of the introducing eunuch. If this eunuch is paid enough—and there is a set price for each cushion—he will remove the three cushions for the lower-ranking Cabinet members.

When the official who has been granted an Audience is conducted to the Audience Hall by the eunuch appointed for the purpose, the latter throws open the great doors, falls upon his knees at the threshold, and announces the name and position of the official, gives the hour and minute of his arrival at the Palace, and, before he rises, he has deftly removed the cushions for which he has received the 146 required sum. After his name has been announced, the official enters and kneels as near the dais as is consistent with his rank and the sum paid the eunuch. When the eunuch has introduced the official, he turns from the door and must run away as fast as he can. Officials and eunuchs stationed at some distance watch his departure. Should he linger or transgress this law, capital punishment is the result. This is to avoid eavesdropping and the possible transmission of State secrets.

When the official who has been granted an Audience is taken to the Audience Hall by the eunuch assigned for this task, the eunuch opens the big doors, kneels at the threshold, and announces the name and position of the official, along with the exact time of his arrival at the Palace. Before he stands up, he skillfully removes the cushions for which he has been paid the required fee. 146 After his name has been announced, the official enters and kneels as close to the dais as is appropriate for his rank and the amount given to the eunuch. Once the eunuch has introduced the official, he quickly turns away from the door and must run off as fast as possible. Officials and eunuchs stationed a bit away observe his departure. If he hesitates or breaks this rule, he faces the death penalty. This is to prevent eavesdropping and the potential leaking of State secrets.

When the official granted an Audience hears the last echo of the steps of the departing eunuch, he falls upon his knees and begins the relation of his business. Their Majesties question him, if necessary, to elicit further explanations. When the Audience is finished, the official rises and walks out. The Chinese never back out of the Presence, and it is not considered a breach of etiquette to turn their backs upon Royalty!

When the official finishes hearing the last echo of the departing eunuch's steps, he drops to his knees and starts discussing his business. The royals ask him questions if they need more details. Once the meeting is over, the official stands up and exits. The Chinese never walk backward out of the presence of royalty, and it’s perfectly acceptable to turn their backs on them!

The officials who are obliged to go often to Audiences resort to an amusing subterfuge to protect their knees from the marble floor. They strap heavily wadded cushions around their knees before they go in, and they can thus kneel in comfort. The long Chinese gown worn by the men, of course, hides these knee cushions.

The officials who have to attend Audiences frequently use a clever trick to keep their knees safe from the cold marble floor. They wrap thick cushions around their knees before entering, allowing them to kneel comfortably. The long Chinese gown that the men wear hides these knee cushions perfectly.

THE OFFICIAL AUDIENCE OF THEIR MAJESTIES

His Majesty assumed the cares of State at an early age, when he was still filled with boyish spirit. Many of the heads of departments are old men, and some of them doubtless most tiresome in reiterating facts and dwelling upon details. When the young Emperor first took over the direction of affairs and held his Audiences alone, he would get very impatient at 147 hearing several of these old men go over tiresome details. As it is not “according to the laws of propriety” for the official to raise his eyes to the Sacred Person, while the old man rambled on, with prosy detail, the young Emperor would slip off the Throne and quietly descend from the dais, and when the poor official raised his eyes to make his obeisance to the Emperor, he would see only the vacant Throne! His Majesty had been in the rear of the hall behind the screen for perhaps five minutes smoking a cigarette or otherwise diverting himself!

His Majesty took on the responsibilities of the state at a young age, still full of youthful energy. Many of the department heads are elderly, and some of them are likely quite tedious in repeating facts and focusing on details. When the young Emperor first started managing affairs and held his Audiences on his own, he would become very impatient listening to several of these old men go over boring details. Since it’s not “according to the laws of propriety” for an official to look up at the Sacred Person while the old man continued with his dull details, the young Emperor would quietly slip off the Throne and step down from the dais. When the unfortunate official finally looked up to pay his respects to the Emperor, all he would see was the empty Throne! His Majesty had been at the back of the hall behind the screen for about five minutes, smoking a cigarette or entertaining himself!

I noticed a curious fact as to the quality of the sacredness of the persons of Their Celestial Majesties. This sacredness seems to belong to them as rulers and not as individuals. In the Audience Hall when administering justice, they are not approached nor addressed, except upon bended knee. In the Palace, in their own privacy, when they give an order or any command touching upon official affairs, this order is received by the attendant, be he courtier, high official or great prince, on his knees. When any official communication is made to Their Majesties, in private or elsewhere, it is made kneeling, but when Their Majesties are in their private capacity and spoken to on ordinary affairs, they are addressed almost familiarly, and the courtier or simple attendant stands while speaking to them. If, however, in the midst of a familiar conversation an order is given, the attendant immediately drops upon his knees to receive it.

I noticed something interesting about the sacredness associated with Their Celestial Majesties. This sacredness seems to apply to them as rulers rather than as individuals. In the Audience Hall, when they are administering justice, no one approaches or speaks to them except while kneeling. In the Palace, when they are in their private space and give an order related to official matters, that order is received by those present—whether they are courtiers, high officials, or princes—while kneeling. Any official communication made to Their Majesties, whether in private or elsewhere, is done while kneeling, but when Their Majesties are acting in a personal capacity and are spoken to about everyday matters, they are addressed quite casually, and the courtier or attendant stands while talking to them. However, if an order is given during a casual conversation, the attendant immediately drops to his knees to receive it.

The kow-tow (pronounced ker-toe and meaning literally to bow the head) is used as a form of thanks, and is not a manner of greeting. The actors kow-tow 148 to Their Majesties at the beginning and end of each performance at the Theater, first to thank for the honor they are to receive in being allowed to act before them, and at the end to thank for the privilege granted. The officials “bow the head” to thank for an Audience or any favor or gift they have received or are to receive from Their Majesties. The kow-tow is not only made by people at the Palace and at Imperial Audiences: it is sometimes used by equals to each other as a proper manner of thanking for some great favor. To make the kow-tow, the person kneels three times and each time bows his head three times, touching the ground with it. The kow-tow could not be made by a foreigner without looking most awkward and appearing most servile, but the Chinese do it with dignity, and it is neither ungraceful nor degrading-looking. It is a time-honored manner of giving thanks, a Chinese tradition surviving from a time when the courtiers were perhaps like slaves, but at present it does not imply any slave-like inferiority on the part of him who performs it.

The kow-tow (pronounced ker-toe and literally meaning to bow the head) is a way of showing gratitude, not a greeting. The actors kow-tow 148 to Their Majesties at the start and finish of every performance at the Theater, first to express thanks for the honor of performing before them, and then to appreciate the privilege granted. The officials “bow the head” to show gratitude for an Audience or any favor or gift received or to be received from Their Majesties. The kow-tow isn’t just done by people at the Palace and during Imperial Audiences; it can also be used among equals as a respectful way to thank someone for a significant favor. To do the kow-tow, a person kneels three times and bows their head three times each time, touching the ground with their forehead. A foreigner attempting the kow-tow would likely look awkward and overly submissive, but the Chinese perform it with dignity, making it neither ungainly nor degrading. It is a longstanding tradition of giving thanks, a Chinese custom that has persisted since a time when courtiers may have seemed like slaves, but today it does not imply any inferiority on the part of the one performing it.

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CHAPTER XVII THE SUMMER PALACE AND ITS GROUNDS

The Summer Palace, the Empress Dowager’s favorite residence, is really a superb domain. Its naturally picturesque situation among the beautiful Western Hills, sixteen miles from Peking, has been improved wherever possible, by the devices of art. The many buildings that constitute an Oriental Palace have been most picturesquely grouped on the banks of its great lake. The eminences and natural undulations have all been made the most of as sites for Palaces and temples, and the grounds are laid out with all the art the Chinese landscape artist has at his command.

The Summer Palace, the Empress Dowager’s favorite home, is truly an amazing place. Its naturally beautiful location among the lovely Western Hills, sixteen miles from Beijing, has been enhanced wherever possible with artistic touches. The various buildings that make up this Oriental Palace are beautifully arranged along the shores of its large lake. The hills and natural slopes have been cleverly utilized as sites for palaces and temples, and the grounds are designed with all the skill of Chinese landscape artists.

The buildings of the Palace proper, where Their Majesties and their suites live, are all massed in one great town-like group at the southeastern end of the lake. In this group are the Theater, with its courts, and the Great Audience Hall. Palaces, temples, summer-houses, tea-booths, dot the whole surface of the great park, and all the vantage-points have been utilized for constructions.

The buildings of the Palace, where Their Majesties and their staff live, are clustered together in a large, town-like area at the southeastern end of the lake. This includes the Theater, with its courtyards, and the Great Audience Hall. Palaces, temples, summer houses, and tea booths are spread across the entire park, and all the best views have been used for these structures.

A beautiful white marble terrace runs the length of the southern side of the lake. Pavilions at intervals vary the monotony of this line or give accent to 150 the natural indentations of the banks. Picturesque landing-places, with their marble steps lapped by the waters of the lake, also lend their variety to this terrace surmounted by its beautiful lotus balustrade.

A stunning white marble terrace stretches along the southern side of the lake. Pavilions placed at intervals break up the monotony of this line or highlight the natural curves of the banks. Charming landing spots, with their marble steps kissed by the water of the lake, also add interest to this terrace topped with a beautiful lotus balustrade. 150

The highest of the hills in the park of the Summer Palace is crowned by the Great Temple of the Ten Thousand Buddhas. This is approached by hundreds of steps, which lead up from the broadest part of the marble terrace over the lake. Beautiful Palaces are built along this terraced height. Picturesque pai-lou (memorial arches) are built at such beautiful points, that Nature herself seems to have designed these positions for them.

The tallest hill in the Summer Palace park is topped by the Great Temple of the Ten Thousand Buddhas. You get there by climbing hundreds of steps that rise from the widest section of the marble terrace overlooking the lake. Stunning palaces are situated along this terraced area. Charming pai-lou (memorial arches) are placed at such lovely spots that it feels like Nature herself picked these perfect locations for them.

A fair, verdure-clad island lies peacefully on the bosom of the lake, and the Palace and temple built thereon seem a part of the natural formation of stone out of which they rise. A graceful seventeen-arched bridge of white marble connects this island with the northern bank of the lake.

A beautiful, green island rests peacefully on the surface of the lake, and the palace and temple built there look like they are part of the natural stone from which they emerge. A graceful white marble bridge with seventeen arches connects this island to the northern bank of the lake.

The canal from Peking, which feeds the lake, winds in and out of the grounds in such graceful meanderings as to seem some fair mountain stream. The outlets to the lakes are spanned by the graceful camel-backed bridges that only the Chinese architects build. Nature and art are everywhere so blended, so harmonized, it is difficult to tell which is which. The simple lines and beautiful proportions and harmonious colors of the one-storied Chinese buildings make even these seem almost a part of the landscape.

The canal from Beijing, which feeds the lake, flows in and out of the grounds in such graceful twists and turns that it resembles a beautiful mountain stream. The exits to the lakes are crossed by the elegant camel-backed bridges that only Chinese architects can create. Nature and art are so seamlessly intertwined and balanced here that it’s hard to distinguish between the two. The simple lines, stunning proportions, and harmonious colors of the single-story Chinese buildings make them look almost like an extension of the landscape.

Chinese architecture—and one grows to admire it very much when studied in its own environment—is tent-building, carried to its greatest perfection and 151 made enduring by the use of materials that last. The grouping of the Chinese buildings is on the same order as the congregation of tents of some roving tribe of Nomads. The downward curve and upturned tilt of their roofs is but the natural slope of the canvas and its uplifting by the tent-poles. These slender tent-poles have developed into the supporting pillars of the verandah, and the raised canvas door of the tent has grown into its buoyantly curved roof. The ornamental eaves are but the solidified silken fringes and embroidered valances of the tents of old. The curious roof ornamentations of the modern Chinese house replace the weights that held the tent-canvas steady. These weights, from rough stones, have now become carven images, cunningly wrought. The Chinese even erect their houses as their ancestors raised their tents. The builder places the columns and puts on the roof before the walls are built. Except the pagoda—and this even seems like so many superposed tents—the Chinese building remains to-day, in spite of its elaborate roofs, its lacquered pillars, and elaborate ornamentation, like some splendid tent, grown into greater fixity and beautified by some magician’s wand. It is admirably suited to the calm pastoral landscapes in which it rests, and seems a part of Nature itself, and is never out of keeping with its surroundings!

Chinese architecture—and you really come to appreciate it when you see it in context—is essentially tent-making taken to its highest level of perfection and made lasting through durable materials. The arrangement of Chinese buildings resembles the way nomadic tribes set up their tents. The downward curve and upward tilt of their roofs mimic the natural flow of canvas and the lift from tent poles. These slender tent poles have evolved into the supportive pillars of porches, and the raised canvas door of the tent has transformed into the gently arching roof. The decorative eaves are like the solidified silk fringes and embroidered edges of ancient tents. The unique roof decorations of modern Chinese homes have taken the place of the weights that stabilized the tent canvas. Those weights, once rough stones, have become intricately crafted sculptures. The Chinese still construct their houses just like their ancestors raised their tents. The builder places the columns and sets the roof before building the walls. Except for the pagoda— which resembles stacked tents—Chinese buildings today, despite their intricate roofs, polished pillars, and detailed decorations, still evoke the image of a grand tent, solidified and enhanced by some magician's spell. It fits perfectly into the serene pastoral landscapes where it stands, seeming to be a part of nature itself and always harmonizing with its surroundings!

Wherever available, in the grounds of the Summer Palace, flowers are planted, and they succeed each other almost the whole year round, for the Chinese are wonderful gardeners. The extensive grounds are, however, not given up entirely to flowers and beautiful constructions; there are great fields of grain. 152 Wheat and millet, and even vegetables, are raised in these pleasure grounds. It was curious to me to see how picturesque so prosaic a thing as a field of turnips might become, when properly placed in a large pleasure domain. By the planting of these useful crops, a great deal of fertile land is utilized, without any detriment to the landscape, and the utilitarian spirit, so strong in the Chinese, is satisfied.

Wherever possible, the grounds of the Summer Palace are filled with flowers that bloom almost all year round, because the Chinese are amazing gardeners. However, these extensive grounds aren't just dedicated to flowers and beautiful buildings; there are also large fields of grain. 152 Wheat, millet, and even vegetables are grown in these pleasure grounds. I found it fascinating to see how charming a simple field of turnips could look when it’s well-placed within a large recreational area. By planting these practical crops, a lot of fertile land is used without harming the landscape, and the strong utilitarian spirit of the Chinese is fulfilled.

There is one terraced hillside in the grounds of the Summer Palace, called the “Flowery Mountain.” In the season of the peonies, which the Chinese call “The King of Flowers,” this is really a flowery mountain—one mass of blooms of exquisitely blended colors and faint evanescent perfume. The China Aster is also brought to great perfection by the Chinese gardeners, and in the time of the chrysanthemum the grounds fairly blaze with this autumnal glory. The Chinese do not go in for the cultivation of the chrysanthemum of extraordinary size. Her Majesty does not care much for these; but her gardeners arrive at some wonderful combinations of colors and some most curious shapes. The year I was in the Palace, Her Majesty was delighted with a beautiful green variety, that the gardeners had succeeded in getting, and that year there was also a new variety whose petals were like threads, they were so thin and hair-like.

There’s a terraced hillside in the Summer Palace grounds called “Flowery Mountain.” During peony season, which the Chinese refer to as “The King of Flowers,” it truly becomes a flowery mountain—an explosion of blooms in beautifully blended colors and a subtle, fleeting fragrance. The Chinese Aster is also cultivated to perfection by the gardeners, and during chrysanthemum season, the grounds are aglow with this autumn splendor. The Chinese don’t focus on growing extremely large chrysanthemums; Her Majesty isn’t fond of them. However, the gardeners create some stunning color combinations and uniquely shaped blooms. The year I visited the Palace, Her Majesty was thrilled with a gorgeous green variety that the gardeners had developed, and that year also saw a new variety with petals so thin and thread-like, they looked almost hair-like.

OLD RUINS IN THE SUMMER PALACE

The Temple of the Ten Thousand Buddhas is so-called from its being built in glazed yellow tiles, each representing a niche, in which is seated a Buddha, of which there are many more than ten thousand. The interior is composed of three chapels. In the central one thrones the Great Buddha. There was another 153 famous Buddha in this temple, which was invested with peculiarly sacred qualities, but it was hurled into the lake below and broken into a thousand pieces when the foreign troops were in possession in 1900. Her Majesty seemed to feel the depredations to the temples, by the foreigners, more keenly than anything else. The Chinese are so perfectly tolerant in matters of religion, they cannot understand our attitude toward any other religion but our own, and our contempt for any other kind of worship except that in which we ourselves indulge.

The Temple of the Ten Thousand Buddhas gets its name from the glazed yellow tiles that cover it, with each tile representing a niche that holds a Buddha, and there are way more than ten thousand Buddhas inside. The interior has three chapels, and in the center chapel sits the Great Buddha. There was another well-known Buddha in this temple that was considered to have especially sacred qualities, but it was thrown into the lake below and shattered into a thousand pieces when foreign troops took control in 1900. The Empress seemed to be more affected by the damage done to the temples by foreigners than by anything else. Chinese people are incredibly tolerant when it comes to religion; they can’t comprehend our attitude toward religions other than our own, or our disdain for any form of worship that isn’t the one we practice.

The Chinese are said to hate the foreigner. They certainly have not much reason to like him; nor to admire our much vaunted civilization. The European Christian soldier in China has burned, destroyed, and killed with as much barbarity as the heathen, and in many instances has given the latter points in cruelty.

The Chinese are said to dislike foreigners. They definitely have little reason to like them or admire our so-called advanced civilization. The European Christian soldier in China has burned, destroyed, and killed with just as much brutality as the heathens, and in many cases has even outdone them in cruelty.

On the slope behind the terraced hill of the Ten Thousand Buddhas are the ruins of the old Summer Palace, destroyed by the European troops fifty years ago. After this, the site of the dwelling Palaces was changed, and they were massed on the southern side of the lake. Her Majesty has nearly hidden all trace of the 1900 devastations to the Summer Palace, but these old ruins of the former Palace still remain, and they are not a blot upon the landscape. On the contrary, they have become picturesque with time, and give the one note of somberness to this smiling demesne that is needed to accentuate its charm. There is a small lake not far from these old ruins, built around with smiling pavilions and a curious tower-like construction which is used as a private temple. 154 There are landing-places and small boats. It looks like a charming bit of old Venice. We never went here, however, but once. There are some unhappy associations connected with this beautiful spot, and Her Majesty did not seem to care to visit it. The promenade in the direction of the old Palace also seemed to sadden her, for she had passed the early years of her married life in these now crumbling ruins.

On the slope behind the terraced hill of the Ten Thousand Buddhas are the remnants of the old Summer Palace, which was destroyed by European troops fifty years ago. After that, the location of the royal residences was moved, and they were clustered on the southern side of the lake. The Queen has almost erased all traces of the 1900 devastation to the Summer Palace, but these old ruins of the former Palace still remain, and they don't detract from the scenery. On the contrary, they've become picturesque over time, adding a touch of somberness to this cheerful estate that enhances its charm. There’s a small lake not far from these old ruins, surrounded by lovely pavilions and an unusual tower-like structure that serves as a private temple. 154 There are docks and small boats. It resembles a delightful piece of old Venice. However, we only visited it once. There are some sad memories tied to this beautiful place, and the Queen didn’t seem interested in going there. The walkway towards the old Palace also seemed to bring her sadness, as she spent the early years of her married life in these now decaying ruins.

From the highest elevations in the grounds of the Summer Palace, we could see the road from Peking! Sometimes Her Majesty and the Ladies would watch from some of the summer-houses, the carts and chairs and vehicles as they passed along. Several times we saw the Emperor and his suite returning from some ceremony in Peking, over the road cleared for his passage. Her Majesty, herself, would be the first to descry him, and she would say, “The Emperor comes.” Then the Empress and Ladies would all look, for it was not against the Proprieties for them to look at His Majesty at such a distance. These views of the high road from the eminences of the Summer Palace were all Her Majesty and the young Empress ever saw of the outside world and common humanity; for neither at the Winter nor Sea Palaces could they get any views from a distance, nor was there any opportunity of seeing beyond the walls. When Their Chinese Majesties go abroad—and this is generally only from one Palace to another—quaint, triangular flags are placed along the Imperial route, warning the people that Their Sacred Majesties are to pass, and that the road will be reserved for them between certain hours. No vehicles or pedestrians 155 are allowed for some time before and after the Imperial passage. In the City of Peking, the inhabitants, even on the streets where the Imperial cortège is to pass, are shut into their houses and not allowed to go out of their doors during the time, and at the intersection of the transversal streets huge curtains are hung, shutting them off from the Imperial way. For these progresses of Their Majesties, the roads are covered with yellow sand.

From the highest points in the grounds of the Summer Palace, we could see the road from Beijing! Sometimes, the Queen and the Ladies would watch from some of the summer houses as carts, chairs, and vehicles passed by. Several times, we saw the Emperor and his entourage returning from a ceremony in Beijing, traveling along the cleared road. The Queen would be the first to spot him, saying, “The Emperor is coming.” Then the Empress and the Ladies would all look, as it wasn’t against the rules for them to see His Majesty from such a distance. These glimpses of the main road from the heights of the Summer Palace were all the Queen and the young Empress ever saw of the outside world and ordinary people; in the Winter or Sea Palaces, they couldn’t see anything from afar, nor did they have the chance to look beyond the walls. When Their Chinese Majesties go out—and this usually only happens from one Palace to another—unusual triangular flags are placed along the Imperial route to warn people that Their Sacred Majesties are passing through, and the road will be reserved for them during certain hours. No vehicles or pedestrians 155 are permitted for some time before and after the Imperial passage. In the City of Beijing, the residents on the streets where the Imperial procession will pass are confined to their homes and not allowed to step outside during that time, and at the intersections of the cross streets, huge curtains are hung to block them from the Imperial route. For these outings of Their Majesties, the roads are covered with yellow sand.

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CHAPTER XVIII THE HARVEST MOON FESTIVAL—WORK ON THE PORTRAIT

We think the Chinese so unemotional, so little given to pleasure or amusement; but there are more popular festivals in China, indulged in by all classes of people, than in any country in the world, except perhaps Japan. The people, from the highest to the lowest, enter into these celebrations with whole-souled earnestness and real enjoyment, and all the popular festivals, as well as the religious ceremonies, are celebrated in the Palace with apparently the same zest as among the people.

We see the Chinese as so unemotional, so lacking in pleasure or fun; yet there are more popular festivals in China, enjoyed by people of all classes, than in any other country in the world, except maybe Japan. From the wealthiest to the poorest, everyone participates in these celebrations with genuine enthusiasm and enjoyment, and all the popular festivals, as well as the religious ceremonies, are celebrated in the Palace with seemingly the same excitement as they are among the people.

The Mid-Autumn Festival, popularly known as the Festival of the Harvest Moon, which is at its full at the time of the celebration, was, of course, observed with due ceremony at the Palace. For these festivals there are always representations at the Palace Theater, and one of the plays on such days is the dramatization of the Legend of the Festival. The legend of the Harvest Moon is this: One day an Emperor received the visit of a fairy. When she left she gave the Emperor an herb, saying, should he eat it, he would be endowed with Immortality. The Emperor was called out, soon after the fairy’s visit, and forgot 157 the gift for a time, and the herb lay upon his table. During his absence from the Throne-room, a young handmaiden entered and, seeing the root on the table, with childish curiosity, tasted it, and, finding it good, ate the whole of it. When the Emperor again thought of his precious gift from the fairy, he hastened back to the Throne-room, to remove it from the table where he had left it. What was his horror to find it gone! Learning that the little handmaid was the only person who had been in the Throne-room, he called her up to find out what she had done with it. When he found she had eaten it, he ordered her killed, that he might thus again obtain the herb. Before the eunuchs could accomplish their task, the charm began to work, and she felt the wings of Immortality; and borne up by them, she flew to the skies and took refuge in the Moon, where she still lives with the pet white rabbit she had in her arms at the time she flew away from the earth. She is now an Immortal, and in the Moon she compounds the Elixir of Immortality. The rabbit, also, shares her immortality, and ever watches at the lunar threshold.

The Mid-Autumn Festival, commonly known as the Harvest Moon Festival, which happens when the moon is full, was celebrated with great ceremony at the Palace. During these festivals, there are always performances at the Palace Theater, and one of the plays on such occasions is a dramatization of the Legend of the Festival. The legend goes like this: One day, an Emperor was visited by a fairy. As she left, she gave the Emperor an herb, telling him that if he ate it, he would gain Immortality. Shortly after the fairy's visit, the Emperor was called away and forgot about the gift for a while, leaving the herb on his table. While he was away from the Throne-room, a young handmaiden entered and, out of childish curiosity, tasted the herb, finding it delicious, and ate the whole thing. When the Emperor finally remembered his precious gift and rushed back to the Throne-room to retrieve it, he was horrified to find it missing! Learning that the young handmaiden was the only one in the Throne-room, he called her to find out what she had done with it. When he discovered that she had eaten it, he ordered her execution so he could get the herb back. But before the eunuchs could carry out their orders, the charm began to work, and she felt the wings of Immortality. Lifted by them, she flew to the skies and took refuge on the Moon, where she still lives with the pet white rabbit she held when she left the earth. She is now an Immortal, and on the Moon, she creates the Elixir of Immortality. The rabbit also shares her immortality and keeps watch at the lunar threshold.

The drama, with this little maiden as heroine, was played by Her Majesty’s actors on the day of the Moon Festival, and the finale of the plays that day was one of the most beautiful spectacular tableaux I have ever seen. The Chinese obtain most artistic effects in their illuminations, and by the most simple means. The stage represented a lake covered with luminous lotus, with the full moon floating above. Throned on a gigantic lotus flower in the center of the lake sat an immense, golden Buddha, impassible and 158 serene, ingeniously illuminated lotus flowers and luminous birds, emblems of Immortality, hovered over the lake, and the whole tableau was supposed to represent Nirvana, when the soul is absorbed into Nature and forms a part of it. It was really fairy-like.

The play, featuring this young girl as the main character, was performed by Her Majesty’s actors on the day of the Moon Festival, and the finale of the performances that day was one of the most stunning visual displays I've ever witnessed. The Chinese achieve remarkable artistic effects in their lighting, using the simplest methods. The stage depicted a lake covered with glowing lotuses, with the full moon shining overhead. Sitting atop a massive lotus flower in the center of the lake was a huge, golden Buddha, calm and serene. Ingeniously lit lotus flowers and glowing birds, symbols of Immortality, hovered over the lake, and the entire scene was meant to illustrate Nirvana, where the soul merges with Nature and becomes one with it. It was truly magical.

The Ladies dined in Her Majesty’s loge, and this beautiful, illuminated tableau was scarcely finished before we were obliged to hurry away to join Their Majesties, who had already started for the gardens where the ceremony was to take place. The procession, with the Emperor and Empress Dowager and Ladies in full dress, as usual for a ceremony, was accompanied by hundreds of lantern-bearing eunuchs. It wound, in and out, through the verandahed corridors and the paths of the garden like some great glow-worm, until it came to the marble terrace beneath the Temple of the Ten Thousand Buddhas, on the great terrace over the lake.

The ladies had dinner in Her Majesty’s private box, and this beautiful, illuminated scene was hardly completed before we had to rush off to join Their Majesties, who had already made their way to the gardens where the ceremony was set to happen. The procession, featuring the Emperor, the Empress Dowager, and the ladies in full formal attire, as is customary for a ceremony, was accompanied by hundreds of eunuchs holding lanterns. It twisted and turned through the covered walkways and garden paths like a giant glow-worm, until it reached the marble terrace beneath the Temple of the Ten Thousand Buddhas, situated on the grand terrace overlooking the lake.

Here, in an open space bathed in the rays of the softly glowing moon, with the glory of the setting sun still in the west, in front of the great Stone Pai-lou stood a beautifully illuminated floral pai-lou and an altar decorated with the usual pyramids of fruits, floral offerings, and flagons of wine. The pai-lou to the Moon was entirely of chrysanthemums, with an inscription “To the Glory of the Chaste and Pure Celestial Orb” in white blooms, like gleaming stars, across the top.

Here, in an open area illuminated by the gentle light of the moon, with the beauty of the setting sun still visible in the west, stood a brightly lit floral arch and an altar adorned with the usual stacks of fruit, floral offerings, and jugs of wine in front of the grand Stone Pai-lou. The arch dedicated to the Moon was completely made of chrysanthemums, with the words “To the Glory of the Chaste and Pure Celestial Orb” written in white flowers, resembling shining stars, along the top.

Their Majesties first made the bows and prostrations to the Moon, and placed floral offerings on the altar. Then the young Empress and Ladies did likewise, while the eunuchs recited a poem in melodious 159 and rhythmic cadence. The Chinese “recitative” is very musical, much more so, to the foreign ear, than their music. This poem to the Moon was recited by two voices in alternating rhythm with wonderful effect. When the recitation was finished, an “auto da fe” was made of the offerings, to which were added sticks of sweet incense and paper cut in curious designs. Over all was poured some of the inflammable wine from the flagons on the altar, and the flames leaped high above the huge incense-burner that stood on a great bronze tripod in the center of the moonlit terrace. It was a wonderfully picturesque sight—the brilliant circle of splendidly gowned Ladies, with the Emperor and Empress Dowager in their midst, around the flaming censer, whose leaping flames glinted and glowed upon the jewels and gold embroidery of their costumes. The lantern-bearing eunuchs formed a faintly glowing circle around this shining center; and over the whole fantastic picture the brilliant Harvest Moon shone with unwonted splendor, as if to show itself worthy of the obeisances it had just received from this brilliant group.

Their Majesties first bowed and knelt to the Moon, placing floral offerings on the altar. Then the young Empress and the Ladies did the same, while the eunuchs recited a poem in a melodious and rhythmic way. The Chinese “recitative” sounds very musical, much more so, to foreign ears, than their music. This poem to the Moon was recited by two voices in alternating rhythm with a wonderful effect. When the recitation was finished, an “auto da fe” was made of the offerings, to which sticks of sweet incense and intricately cut paper were added. Some of the flammable wine from the flagons on the altar was poured over everything, and flames leaped high above the large incense-burner that stood on a great bronze tripod in the center of the moonlit terrace. It was a breathtaking sight—the brilliant circle of magnificently dressed Ladies, with the Emperor and Empress Dowager in their midst, around the flaming censer, whose dancing flames glinted and glowed on the jewels and gold embroidery of their outfits. The lantern-bearing eunuchs formed a softly glowing circle around this shining center; and over the whole enchanting scene, the brilliant Harvest Moon shone with unwonted splendor, as if to prove itself worthy of the bows it had just received from this dazzling group. 159

When the flames no longer leaped from the censer, when only the white smoke of the incense curled through the interstices of its cover, Their Majesties turned away, and the lantern-lit procession followed them to the banks of the lake, where the whole Palace fleet, brilliantly illuminated, lay moored beneath the marble terrace. The eunuchs, holding aloft their gleaming lanterns, stood along the terrace and knelt on the steps leading into the water, while Their Majesties descended them. On two of the boats, at either 160 side of the Imperial barge, the eunuchs held their lanterns to form the characters “Peace” and “Prosperity.” The waters of the lake were now glowing with the reflections of the myriad lanterns and dancing under their many-colored lights. A faint glow still illumined the western sky, while the reflection of the resplendent Moon gleamed like liquid diamonds across the lake! When we reached the Imperial landing-place, its great arc-lights on the two tall, painted poles sent their reflections shimmering, in long, wavy lines, far out into the lake, and almost rivaled in their splendor that of the celestial orb itself.

When the flames stopped dancing from the censer and only the white smoke of the incense swirled through the gaps in its cover, Their Majesties turned away, and the lantern-lit procession followed them to the lake's edge, where the entire Palace fleet, brightly lit, was docked beneath the marble terrace. The eunuchs, holding up their shining lanterns, lined the terrace and knelt on the steps leading into the water as Their Majesties descended. On two boats, one on each side of the Imperial barge, the eunuchs held their lanterns to form the characters “Peace” and “Prosperity.” The lake's waters glowed with reflections from the countless lanterns, dancing in the colorful lights. A faint glow still lit up the western sky, while the reflection of the magnificent Moon shimmered like liquid diamonds across the lake! When we reached the Imperial landing area, the large arc lights on the two tall, painted poles cast their reflections shimmering in long, wavy lines far out into the lake, nearly rivaling the splendor of the celestial orb itself.

Although I took part in all these Palace festivals, my work on the portrait was advancing, but I longed for more opportunity to quietly study it and for a little more freedom in working. I felt I needed more time also for my painting. I ardently desired to be able to work some when Her Majesty did not pose, and I finally decided to ask her to allow me to remain at my painting when she and the Ladies went for their morning walks after a short sitting. It was a deprivation for me to give up even one of these delightful walks, when I saw such a charming side of the Empress Dowager’s character, but I felt it must be done. She reluctantly consented to excuse me on a few occasions, but she seemed to feel it was not hospitable on her part to leave me alone; and when she did so she would remain out a shorter time than usual. She seemed so concerned at my working while the others enjoyed themselves, that I soon ceased to ask to be left at work; I could only try to make the best of the time I had at my disposal.

Even though I participated in all these palace festivals, my work on the portrait was progressing, but I yearned for more chances to focus on it quietly and needed a bit more freedom to work. I felt I required more time for my painting as well. I really wanted to be able to paint while Her Majesty wasn’t posing, so I eventually decided to ask her if I could stay at my easel when she and the ladies went for their morning walks after a brief session. It was hard for me to give up even one of those lovely walks, especially since I got to see such a delightful side of the Empress Dowager’s personality, but I knew it had to be done. She hesitantly agreed to let me skip a few walks, but she seemed to think it wasn’t very hospitable to leave me on my own; and when she did go out, she would stay away for a shorter time than usual. She appeared so worried about me working while the others enjoyed themselves that I soon stopped asking to be left to paint; I could only try to make the most of the time I had available.

161 My desire to have more time for my painting and more opportunity for studying the work was not the only cloud in the heaven of these delightful days. As the portrait progressed I found myself constantly running up against Chinese conventionalities as to the way it was done. They wished so much detail and no shadow. Had Her Majesty been alone to be considered, she was artistic and progressive enough to have, in the end, allowed me more liberty; but she, also, was obliged to conform to tradition, and no fantasy could be indulged in painting the portrait of a Celestial Majesty. It was necessary to conform to rigid conventions.

161 My wish for more time to paint and study my work wasn’t the only drawback in these enjoyable days. As I worked on the portrait, I kept running into Chinese conventions about how it should be done. They wanted a lot of detail and no shadows. If it were just up to Her Majesty, she was artistic and open-minded enough to ultimately give me more freedom; however, she also had to stick to tradition, and there was no room for creativity when painting the portrait of a Celestial Majesty. It was essential to follow strict conventions.

I had such a fine opportunity to do something really picturesque in painting this great Empress and most interesting woman, and I found I was to be bound down by the iron fetters of Chinese tradition! I could neither choose an accessory, nor even arrange a fold according to the lines of the composition. I was obliged to follow, in every detail, centuries-old conventions. There could be no shadows and very little perspective, and everything must be painted in such full light as to lose all relief and picturesque effect. When I saw I must represent Her Majesty in such a conventional way as to make her unusually attractive personality banal, I was no longer filled with the ardent enthusiasm for my work with which I had begun it, and I had many a heartache and much inward rebellion before I settled down to the inevitable.

I had a fantastic chance to create something really captivating by painting this amazing Empress and fascinating woman, but I realized I was constrained by the strict rules of Chinese tradition! I couldn't choose an accessory or even arrange a fold according to the composition's lines. I had to stick to centuries-old conventions in every detail. There could be no shadows and very little perspective, and everything had to be painted in such bright light that it lost all depth and visual effect. When I realized I had to portray Her Majesty in such a traditional way that made her unique and attractive personality seem ordinary, I no longer felt the passionate enthusiasm for my work that I had when I started. I faced a lot of heartache and inner turmoil before I accepted the inevitable.

The Empress Dowager, however, knew nothing of my discouragement, and seemed perfectly contented with the progress of the portrait then on hand—so 162 pleased, in fact, she asked me if I would not like Mrs. Conger to come and see it. I, of course, replied that I would, and an invitation was accordingly sent, through the Foreign Office, inviting Mrs. Conger to come to see the portrait.

The Empress Dowager, however, had no idea about my discouragement and seemed completely happy with the progress of the portrait I was working on—so pleased, in fact, that she asked me if I wanted Mrs. Conger to come and see it. I, of course, said yes, and an invitation was sent through the Foreign Office, inviting Mrs. Conger to come and see the portrait. 162

As Her Majesty was to receive her in the Throne-room where I painted, it was decided I could not work on that day. I fully expected the portrait would be exhibited in the Throne-room, the only place where it had a proper light; but, to my disappointment, Mrs. Conger was asked to look at it in the small room where it was kept when I was not working on it. When we went in, the Chief Eunuch ceremoniously removed the yellow covering over the “Sacred Picture,” which hung flat against the wall in a very bad light, with annoying reflections. The small room was also uncomfortably crowded with Her Majesty and suite, so that it was impossible to see the whole canvas at once. Mrs. Conger was, however, so pleased with the likeness and lifelike expression in the eyes, the upper part of the picture being in a fairly good light, that the comment stopped here.

As Her Majesty was set to meet her in the Throne-room where I painted, it was decided that I couldn’t work that day. I fully expected the portrait to be displayed in the Throne-room, the only place with proper lighting; but, to my disappointment, Mrs. Conger was asked to view it in the small room where it was kept when I wasn’t working on it. When we entered, the Chief Eunuch ceremoniously removed the yellow covering over the “Sacred Picture,” which was hung flat against the wall in poor lighting, with annoying reflections. The small room was also uncomfortably crowded with Her Majesty and her entourage, making it impossible to see the entire canvas at once. However, Mrs. Conger was so pleased with the likeness and the lifelike expression in the eyes, with the upper part of the picture being in fairly good light, that the discussion ended there.

This first portrait represented the Empress Dowager sitting on one of her favorite Cantonese carved Thrones. The figure was life-size. In one hand she held a flower, and the other lay over a yellow cushion. The tip of one small embroidered shoe, with its jeweled, white kid sole resting on a dragon footstool, showed under the hem of her gown. The head was a three-quarters view, with the eyes looking at the observer. A jardinière, with her favorite orchid, stood behind the Throne at the right. It was painted in full light. 163 The canvas was four by six feet in size; and there was thus no place for any of the emblems or insignia of Her Majesty’s rank, save that she was clothed in her official costume of Imperial yellow.

This first portrait showed the Empress Dowager sitting on one of her favorite Cantonese carved thrones. The figure was life-size. In one hand, she held a flower, and the other rested on a yellow cushion. The tip of one small embroidered shoe, with its jeweled white leather sole resting on a dragon footstool, peeked out from under the hem of her gown. The head was shown in a three-quarters view, with the eyes looking at the viewer. A jardinière with her favorite orchid stood behind the throne on the right. It was painted in full light. 163 The canvas was four by six feet in size, so there was no room for any of the symbols or insignia of Her Majesty’s rank, except that she was dressed in her official costume of Imperial yellow.

This was the conventional reality, and I had dreamed of painting Her Majesty in one of her Buddha-like poses, sitting erect upon an antique Throne of the Dynasty, with one beautifully rounded arm and exquisitely shaped hand resting on its high side, contrasting in their grace with its severe lines. I should have exaggerated her small stature by placing her upon the largest of these Dynastic Thrones. Her wonderfully magnetic personality alone should have dominated. At the left of the Throne, I should have placed one of those huge Palace braziers, its blue flames leaping into the air, their glow glinting here and there upon her jewels and the rich folds of her drapery; the whole enveloped in the soft azure smoke of incense, rising from splendid antique bronze censers. Across the base of the picture, under her feet, should have writhed and sprawled the rampant double dragon. The Eternal Feminine, with its eternal enigma shining from her inscrutable eyes, should have pierced, with almost cruel penetration, the mystery of her surroundings. Her face should have shone out of this dim interior, as her personality does above her real environment. I should have tried to show all the force and strength of her nature in that characteristic face, exaggerating every feature of it, rather than toning down one line.

This was the conventional reality, and I had dreamed of painting Her Majesty in one of her Buddha-like poses, sitting upright on an antique Dynasty Throne, with one beautifully rounded arm and exquisitely shaped hand resting on its high side, contrasting in their grace with the throne's harsh lines. I should have emphasized her small stature by placing her on the largest of these Dynastic Thrones. Her incredibly magnetic personality alone should have stood out. To the left of the throne, I should have placed one of those huge palace braziers, its blue flames leaping into the air, their glow shimmering on her jewels and the rich folds of her drapery; the whole scene enveloped in the soft azure smoke of incense rising from splendid antique bronze censers. Across the base of the picture, under her feet, should have writhed and sprawled the rampant double dragon. The Eternal Feminine, with its eternal mystery shining from her inscrutable eyes, should have pierced through the mystery of her surroundings with almost cruel intensity. Her face should have radiated from this dim interior, just as her personality does above her real environment. I should have aimed to capture all the force and strength of her nature in that characteristic face, exaggerating every feature instead of softening any lines.

With all these possibilities that the Empress Dowager’s person and surroundings would suggest to the 164 most unimaginative of artists, and with the conventional traditions, which I was obliged to follow, no wonder I became discouraged. But I had always the solace of her personality—the fascinating study of herself to delight and console me. New phases of her character and personality were constantly opening out before me. She dominates everything and everybody in the Palace, and is far and away, the most interesting personality there, not because she is the first figure at the Court, but because she is really the most interesting one, and she would be that in any position. No wonder that when she smiles the Court is gay—her smile is so entrancing. No wonder that when she frowns the Court trembles, for she excites sympathy in all her moods.

With all the possibilities that the Empress Dowager’s presence and surroundings suggested to the 164 most uncreative of artists, and with the traditional expectations I had to follow, it’s no surprise I became discouraged. But I always had the comfort of her personality—the fascinating study of her to bring me joy and reassurance. New aspects of her character were constantly revealing themselves to me. She influences everything and everyone in the Palace and is by far the most intriguing person there, not just because she is the top figure at the Court, but because she truly is the most captivating one, no matter her position. It’s no wonder when she smiles, the Court brightens—her smile is simply enchanting. It’s no wonder when she frowns, the Court feels uneasy, as she evokes sympathy in all her moods.

165

CHAPTER XIX A Garden Party at the Summer Palace

Not long after this, Her Majesty gave a garden party for the ladies and gentlemen of the Legations. These garden parties occupy two days, for ladies and gentlemen are not received at the same time by Their Majesties of China. The Corps Diplomatique and attachés were entertained the first day, and the ladies of the Legations the following day. The entertainment was the same for each. The gentlemen were formally received in the Great Audience Hall by Their Majesties, after which a repast was served them in a pavilion near. When this was finished, they were taken for a tour of the gardens and lakes, and they left the Palace about two o’clock. None of the Ladies of the Court, except, of course, the Empress Dowager, were present at the receptions of the gentlemen of the Corps Diplomatique. The ladies of the Legations were received the following day.

Not long after this, Her Majesty hosted a garden party for the ladies and gentlemen of the Legations. These garden parties last two days because ladies and gentlemen are not welcomed at the same time by Their Majesties of China. The Diplomatic Corps and attachés were entertained on the first day, while the ladies of the Legations were invited the next day. The activities were the same for both days. The gentlemen were formally welcomed in the Great Audience Hall by Their Majesties, after which a meal was served to them in a nearby pavilion. Once that was done, they went on a tour of the gardens and lakes, and they left the Palace around two o’clock. None of the Ladies of the Court, except for the Empress Dowager, were present at the receptions for the gentlemen of the Diplomatic Corps. The ladies of the Legations received their welcome the following day.

I was rather embarrassed as to what I should do, at this first formal reception, for the ladies of the Legations, since my arrival in the Palace. Being a foreigner, I thought it looked incongruous for me to receive with the Chinese Ladies. My uneasiness 166 seemed to be divined by Her Majesty (she was always wonderful for her tact); she said, as I had been presented first in private Audience, it would be well for me to be presented also in public Audience. She suggested that I should go to the Foreign Office, meet Mrs. Conger on her arrival, and come into the Throne-room with her. When the eunuchs announced that the ladies had arrived at the Foreign Office, Her Majesty ordered my red Palace chair to take me there.

I felt pretty awkward about what to do at this first formal reception for the ladies of the Legations since arriving at the Palace. As a foreigner, I thought it seemed out of place for me to be received alongside the Chinese ladies. My discomfort 166 seemed to be sensed by Her Majesty (she always had a knack for tact); she mentioned that since I had been presented first in a private Audience, it would be fitting for me to be presented in a public Audience as well. She suggested I go to the Foreign Office, meet Mrs. Conger when she arrived, and enter the Throne-room with her. When the eunuchs announced that the ladies had arrived at the Foreign Office, Her Majesty ordered my red Palace chair to take me there.

The Foreign Office is only a few hundred yards to the left of the Imperial entrance to the Palace. Mrs. Conger was one of the first ladies to arrive. When the other ladies came, all walked over to the gate of the Palace, and, after entering, went to a pavilion at the right of the Audience Hall, where they arranged themselves in the order in which they were to be presented.

The Foreign Office is just a few hundred yards to the left of the main entrance to the Palace. Mrs. Conger was one of the first women to arrive. When the other women arrived, they all walked over to the gate of the Palace, and after entering, went to a pavilion on the right side of the Audience Hall, where they lined up in the order they were going to be presented.

The verandah and large marble platform of approach to the Audience Hall were shaded with tent-like silken awnings and covered, for the day, with red carpets, the latter a concession to foreign taste; for Her Majesty, though having many beautiful carpets stored up, has none in use, and only in winter and for certain functions are the courts carpeted. She never uses them in the interior.

The veranda and large marble walkway leading to the Audience Hall were covered with tent-like silk awnings and laid with red carpets for the day, a nod to foreign preferences. Although Her Majesty has many beautiful carpets stored away, none are currently in use, and the courts are only carpeted in winter and for special occasions. She never uses them indoors.

A double line of Princesses, led by the Princess Imperial, descended the steps of the Audience Hall and met the ladies on the marble platform. The Princesses then turned and preceded them into the Audience Hall. Here they separated and stood in a picturesque group on either side of the Throne dais.

A double line of princesses, led by the Princess Imperial, came down the steps of the Audience Hall and joined the ladies on the marble platform. The princesses then turned and led them into the Audience Hall. Once inside, they split up and stood in a beautiful group on either side of the throne dais.

167 Here, in the dim obscurity, sat the Empress Dowager on the Dynastic Throne, with the Emperor seated at her left. In front of Her Majesty stood the official table, with its cover of Imperial yellow reaching to the floor. To the ladies standing below the dais only the heads and shoulders of the Empress Dowager were visible above the table, with its pyramids of fruits and flowers.

167 Here, in the dim light, the Empress Dowager sat on the Dynastic Throne, with the Emperor sitting to her left. In front of Her Majesty was the official table, covered in Imperial yellow that reached the floor. To the ladies standing below the dais, only the heads and shoulders of the Empress Dowager could be seen above the table, which was adorned with pyramids of fruits and flowers.

The ladies made three reverences on entering, and each advanced and went up on the dais at her presentation. Her Majesty’s interpreter, the elder Miss Yu, stood at her right, a little behind, and repeated the Chinese name and title of each lady presented. Her Majesty, who has a royal memory for faces, recognized each lady who had been presented before, but treated all with equal cordiality. This cordiality was sometimes construed by the ladies, on their first presentation, as a special mark of interest in themselves; but it was the Empress Dowager’s invariable position toward all the foreigners at these diplomatic receptions. Like all well-bred hostesses, she was most particular to show no difference even to those ladies she liked best.

The ladies made three bows upon entering and each stepped forward to the dais for their presentation. Her Majesty’s interpreter, the older Miss Yu, stood a bit behind her right side and repeated the Chinese name and title of each lady as they were introduced. Her Majesty, who has an impressive memory for faces, recognized every lady who had been presented before, but treated them all with the same warmth. This warmth was sometimes interpreted by the ladies, during their first introduction, as a special sign of interest in them; however, it was the Empress Dowager’s standard approach towards all the foreigners at these diplomatic receptions. Like any well-mannered hostess, she made sure to show no favoritism, even to those ladies she liked the most.

When all had been presented, the eunuchs removed the official table behind which the Empress Dowager received the formal presentations, and she descended from the dais. One of her yellow satin chairs was brought and she sat down at the right side of the Audience Hall. The ladies were then, collectively, presented by Her Majesty to the young Empress and the Princess Imperial, and tea was ordered. While the ladies were drinking tea, standing around the 168 Empress Dowager’s chair, she said a few words to each, informally.

Once everything had been presented, the eunuchs took away the official table where the Empress Dowager had received formal presentations, and she stepped down from the dais. One of her yellow satin chairs was brought over, and she sat down on the right side of the Audience Hall. The ladies were then introduced collectively by Her Majesty to the young Empress and the Princess Imperial, and tea was ordered. As the ladies stood around the Empress Dowager’s chair drinking tea, she chatted informally with each of them. 168

When the tea was finished, the ladies, conducted by the eunuchs and accompanied by the Princesses, went through the court of the Theater, past the Palace of the young Empress, through Her Majesty’s court to her Throne-room, where luncheon was served. This was in alternate courses of foreign and Chinese food. There were foreign wines and table waters, as well as Chinese, and quantities of sweet champagne, without which, the Chinese imagine, no foreigner can eat.

When the tea was done, the ladies, guided by the eunuchs and accompanied by the Princesses, walked through the Theater courtyard, past the Palace of the young Empress, through Her Majesty’s court to her Throne-room, where lunch was served. The meal alternated between foreign and Chinese dishes. There were foreign wines and table waters, as well as Chinese options, and plenty of sweet champagne, which the Chinese believe is essential for foreigners to enjoy their meal.

After luncheon, at which the Imperial Princess and Princesses acted as hostesses, the visiting ladies went to the marble terrace overlooking the lake. Here they were met by the young Empress and the secondary wife of the Emperor, for they were never present at the table when the foreign ladies were entertained, any more than Her Majesty herself.

After lunch, where the Imperial Princess and Princesses hosted, the visiting ladies went to the marble terrace that overlooked the lake. There, they were greeted by the young Empress and the Emperor's secondary wife, as they were never present at the table when the foreign ladies were entertained, just like Her Majesty herself.

The Empress Dowager’s barge did not lead the Palace fleet that day. There were three big houseboats, each of which ponderous affairs had a large cabin with a yellow-covered seat for Her Majesty, which, though she never used, was never occupied by any one else. Anything covered with yellow is sacred to Their Majesties, and is never used except by them.

The Empress Dowager’s barge didn’t lead the Palace fleet that day. There were three large houseboats, each a heavy structure that had a big cabin with a yellow-covered seat for Her Majesty, which, even though she never used it, was never sat on by anyone else. Anything covered in yellow is sacred to Their Majesties and is never used by anyone else.

THE SECONDARY WIFE OF THE EMPEROR

In Summer Coiffure

In Summer Hair Styling

We were rowed across the lake, first to the island, where the Palace and small temple adjacent were visited, after which the ladies took the boats again and continued the tour of the lake to the Marble Boat. This Marble Boat was built over the lake as a summer-house for one of the Emperors, and is on the plan of the Palace houseboat, but with an upper, as well as 169 lower deck. It is one of the things in the Summer Palace most talked about by foreigners, and it is a curiosity, though not a thing of beauty. It was never made the objective point of any of Her Majesty’s promenades, nor visited, except when foreigners were invited to the Palace. On the lower deck of the Marble Boat, where was the best view of the lake, light refreshments, sweets, and fruits were served. When the tour of the lake was finished, the ladies made their adieus to Their Majesties and the young Empress and Princesses, and left the Palace grounds for the Foreign Office, where they took their own chairs and carriages for Peking.

We were rowed across the lake, first to the island, where we visited the Palace and the small temple nearby. After that, the women got back into the boats and continued the lake tour to the Marble Boat. This Marble Boat was built over the lake as a summer house for one of the Emperors and is designed like a palace houseboat, but it has both an upper and a lower deck. It's one of the most talked-about attractions in the Summer Palace among foreigners, and while it's a curiosity, it's not exactly beautiful. It was never a main destination during any of Her Majesty's outings, nor was it visited except when foreigners were invited to the Palace. On the lower deck of the Marble Boat, where the best view of the lake was, light refreshments, sweets, and fruit were served. When the lake tour was done, the ladies bid farewell to Their Majesties, the young Empress, and the Princesses, and left the Palace grounds for the Foreign Office, where they took their own chairs and carriages to Peking. 169

In spite of Her Majesty’s cordiality and the efforts of the Princesses and Ladies, these garden parties were not always as pleasant as they might be. There seemed an absolute lack of harmony among the ladies of the Legation. Each seemed to watch the other with a jealous eye, in constant fear that some one might overstep her place. Some did not hesitate, even, to show their private animosities on the steps of the Throne, or before their hostesses at the table. They seemed to act on the principle that the Chinese, not understanding the language, would not understand anything else. It was unfortunate that this most punctilious of people, the Chinese, should have had this apparent lack of friendliness to judge the European ladies by. They received all with equal favor and perfect etiquette, and it was a pity that the lack of harmony among the foreign ladies should have led them to commit what seemed to be breaches of etiquette, which the Chinese could not have failed to 170 observe. I was astonished to see how observant the latter were and how accurately they gauged our standing.

Despite Her Majesty’s warmth and the efforts of the Princesses and Ladies, these garden parties weren’t always as enjoyable as they could have been. There was a noticeable lack of harmony among the ladies of the Legation. Each one seemed to keep a jealous eye on the others, always worried that someone might overstep their boundaries. Some even didn’t hesitate to display their grudges on the steps of the Throne or in front of their hostesses at the table. They seemed to think that the Chinese, not understanding the language, wouldn’t catch on to anything else. It was unfortunate that this very proper group, the Chinese, had to witness this apparent unfriendliness to judge the European ladies. They treated everyone with equal kindness and perfect etiquette, and it was a shame that the discord among the foreign women led to what appeared to be breaches of etiquette that the Chinese couldn’t have missed. 170 I was surprised to see how observant they were and how accurately they assessed our status.

Their comments on our costumes were also very interesting. Her Majesty seemed to like foreign dress, especially when in pretty colors, for she reveled in color. She said the foreign costume was very becoming to well-made and well-proportioned people; but she thought, while it showed off to advantage a good figure, it was unfortunate for any one who was not so blessed. She thought the Chinese costume, falling in straight lines from the shoulder, was more becoming to stout people, for it hid many defects. One universal comment, among these Chinese ladies, on us, was that we look old for our years. The well-bred Chinese repress, from early childhood, all outward evidences of emotion. They lead such simple, wholesome lives—“Early to bed and early to rise”—that there are rarely any lines visible in their faces until they reach an advanced age, when they seem to go suddenly from ripe womanhood into extreme old age.

Their comments on our outfits were quite fascinating. Her Majesty appeared to prefer foreign clothing, particularly in bright colors, as she loved color. She mentioned that foreign attire looked flattering on people with nice figures, but felt it was unfortunate for those who weren’t as fortunate. She thought the Chinese outfit, which fell in straight lines from the shoulder, suited heavier people better because it concealed many flaws. One common remark among these Chinese ladies about us was that we looked older than we actually are. Well-bred Chinese people suppress all outward signs of emotion from a young age. They lead such simple, healthy lives—“Early to bed and early to rise”—that there are hardly any lines on their faces until they reach a certain age, when they suddenly seem to shift from mature womanhood to extreme old age.

They have a particular aversion to blond hair. They did not tell me so, as I have blond hair; but on the stage all the demons are represented with blond hair, and the more blond it is, the more wicked the demon. One day, one of the Ladies suggested to me that there were some very fine vegetable hair dyes for turning the hair black without injuring it; in fact, the growth was increased thereby. She said if I used this, my hair “might in time become black; at least, it would grow much darker.”

They really don't like blond hair. They didn't say anything to me because I have blond hair, but on stage, all the demons are portrayed with blond hair, and the blonder it is, the more evil the demon seems. One day, one of the ladies mentioned that there are some great plant-based hair dyes that can turn hair black without damaging it; in fact, they can even help it grow better. She said if I tried this, my hair “might eventually turn black; at least it would get a lot darker.”

171

CHAPTER XX I’m starting a second portrait of Her Majesty—the palace painters.

I had several days of good work on the portrait after the garden party, when Her Majesty decided it was sufficiently advanced for the characters, giving her name and titles, to be placed across the top of the canvas. As she has sixteen appellations, represented by sixteen characters, and as they were all to be placed upon the picture, together with her two seals, official and personal, it required some manœuvering to get them into the space required. This lettering was looked upon as a very important detail; there were numbers of models of the characters made before the proper size and style was arrived at. The seals, about three inches long, had to be placed at either end of the sixteen characters, and there was a great deal of deliberation as to the color in which the characters were to be painted. Red was finally decided upon. The two seals were to be painted, one in red characters on a white ground, and the other in white characters on a red ground. As I had not known these appellations were to be placed across the top of the canvas when I began the portrait, I had not allowed for them, and putting them on took away from the space above the head and detracted 172 from the general effect. This was another discouragement. I left the discussion of the lettering to Her Majesty and the writers, and I decided to give the canvas over entirely to the latter for a few days, in order that they might place the characters thereon, and that Her Majesty might have time to decide upon their color at her leisure.

I had several productive days on the portrait after the garden party when Her Majesty decided it was advanced enough for her name and titles to be added at the top of the canvas. Since she has sixteen titles, represented by sixteen characters, and both her official and personal seals needed to be included, fitting them all in the available space required some careful planning. This lettering was seen as a crucial detail, and multiple models were created before we found the right size and style. The seals, about three inches long, had to be positioned at both ends of the sixteen characters, and there was a lot of discussion about the color for the characters. Red was ultimately chosen. One seal would be painted with red characters on a white background and the other with white characters on a red background. Since I hadn’t known these titles were going to be added when I started the portrait, I hadn't planned for them, and including them took away from the space above the head and affected the overall look. 172 This was another discouragement. I left the details of the lettering to Her Majesty and the writers, and I decided to completely hand over the canvas to them for a few days so they could add the characters while Her Majesty took her time to decide on their color.

Her Majesty had told me, a few days before, she wished me to paint a “number of portraits” of her, so I decided to begin another now, and I hoped to be able, as this was not to be an official portrait, to have a little more liberty in painting it. Her Majesty decided that it should be painted in her ordinary dress and without the Manchu coiffure, which she only wears at her Audiences, as it is very heavy and very tiring to her head. The day I began the portrait she had on a gown of soft, embroidered blue. Her hair, in a coil at the top of her head, was beautifully dressed, with the jasmine flowers so quaintly arranged, a realistic butterfly poised above them; her jewels so discreet and picturesque, I asked her to pose and let me paint her as she was then. Her coiffure, without the Manchu head-dress, is much more becoming to her than with the huge, wing-like construction which made her look top-heavy; for when she wore it, being in official costume, she was obliged to wear a great profusion of jewels and ornaments. In this portrait she was seated upon her Throne, but not in a traditional attitude, and I began it full of hope; for, at least, I had more choice as to the surroundings and accessories, which were not obliged to be “according to tradition.” As it was only to be seen by her intimates, I asked 173 her to let me paint her two favorite dogs lying beside her footstool, the blond “Shadza” and dusky “Hailo.” Her Majesty gladly consented, and “Hailo” was ordered to be decorated in his “gala costume.” This consisted of two huge chrysanthemums tied in his hair over his ears. “Shadza,” the Pekingese pug, resented any such accoutrement and was painted in his natural state. She took the liveliest interest in the painting of the dogs’ portraits, and seemed to think it much more wonderful to paint these little animals, so that they were recognizable, than to make a likeness of herself. I was obliged, of course, to do them very quickly. She sat behind me all the time I was painting them, and the rapidity with which they grew much astonished her.

Her Majesty told me a few days ago that she wanted me to paint a “number of portraits” of her, so I decided to start another one now. Since this wouldn’t be an official portrait, I hoped I could have a bit more freedom in how I painted it. Her Majesty chose to be depicted in her everyday dress and without the Manchu hairstyle, which she only wears during official appearances because it’s really heavy and tiring on her head. The day I started the portrait, she was wearing a soft, embroidered blue gown. Her hair was styled beautifully in a coil at the top of her head, with jasmine flowers artfully arranged and a realistic butterfly perched above them; her jewelry was subtle and picturesque. I asked her to pose so I could paint her as she was then. Her hairstyle, without the Manchu headdress, suited her much better than the large, wing-like structure that made her look top-heavy. When she wore the official costume, she had to adorn herself with a lot of flashy jewels and ornaments. In this portrait, she was sitting on her Throne, but not in a traditional pose, and I began it feeling hopeful; at least I had more flexibility with the surroundings and accessories, which didn’t have to follow “tradition.” Since it was just for her close friends to see, I asked her if I could include her two favorite dogs lying by her footstool, the blond “Shadza” and the darker “Hailo.” Her Majesty agreed, and “Hailo” was dressed in his “gala costume,” which consisted of two large chrysanthemums tied in his hair over his ears. “Shadza,” the Pekingese pug, wasn’t a fan of any sort of adornment and was painted as he naturally was. She was really interested in the painting of the dogs' portraits and seemed to find it much more impressive to make them recognizable than to focus on capturing her likeness. Of course, I had to work quickly on them. She sat behind me the whole time I painted, and she was astonished by how quickly I managed to get their likenesses down.

I discovered about this time I was not the only painter in the Palace. Her Majesty has a corps of painters always there. These painters decorate the thousands of lanterns used in the Palace ceremonies and processions. They paint the scenery for the spectacular plays at the Theater, and the flowers used for the decorations of the screen-like walls I have already alluded to. Some are very clever flower painters, and one even paints portraits, but they have never seen the Empress Dowager except from afar! Though Mandarins of the Third rank, the painters were obliged to withdraw from the court where they worked when Her Majesty and suite passed by. It was amusing to see these dignified, handsomely gowned officials being hurried out of the court on Her Majesty’s approach by the eunuchs who precede her. Their paintings were submitted to her by one of the eunuchs, by whom she sent her instructions to them.

I found out around this time that I wasn't the only painter in the Palace. Her Majesty has a team of painters always on hand. These artists decorate the thousands of lanterns used during the Palace ceremonies and processions. They create the scenery for the amazing plays at the Theater and paint the flowers for the decorations on the screen-like walls I've mentioned before. Some are really talented flower painters, and one even paints portraits, but they've never seen the Empress Dowager up close—only from a distance! Even though they hold the rank of Third rank Mandarins, the painters had to step away from the court when Her Majesty and her entourage walked by. It was funny to watch these dignified officials in their fine gowns being hurried out of the court by the eunuchs who lead her approach. Their paintings were delivered to her by one of the eunuchs, who also relayed her instructions back to them.

174 I saw these painters first, at the time of the chrysanthemums. There were some new varieties in one of Her Majesty’s courts that she wished painted. One day, on going into this court, I saw a group of bebuttoned officials studying the flowers. They gravely inclined their heads with the customary dignity of the Chinese, and I found later they were “confrères.”

174 I first saw these painters during the time of the chrysanthemums. There were some new varieties in one of Her Majesty’s courts that she wanted painted. One day, when I walked into this court, I saw a group of buttoned officials examining the flowers. They solemnly bowed their heads with the usual dignity of the Chinese, and I later found out they were "colleagues."

It was interesting to me to see their methods—so different from ours, but arriving at a very artistic result. I never spoke to them; but, as I was an outer barbarian, I took advantage of my position and watched them work from my windows, though I took care to keep myself hidden behind the curtains, in true Oriental style. They worked in the court quite near my pavilion. The chief painter selected the flower to be copied, and the others stood around while he painted, petal by petal, with most laborious and minute attention. While he worked, the others took notes and made studies of the same flower. When this laborious first study was finished, it was copied with a freer hand by one of the painters, and this copy was copied until they finally arrived at a dashing study, which seemed to be done “de premier coup.”

It was fascinating for me to observe their techniques—so different from ours, yet leading to a beautifully artistic result. I never spoke to them, but since I was an outsider, I took advantage of my position and watched them work from my windows, making sure to stay hidden behind the curtains, just like in true Oriental fashion. They worked in the courtyard right next to my pavilion. The main painter chose the flower to replicate, and the others gathered around as he painted, petal by petal, with intense and meticulous focus. While he worked, the others took notes and created studies of the same flower. When this painstaking initial study was completed, it was rendered with a freer style by one of the painters, and this version was further replicated until they finally arrived at a bold study that seemed to be done "in one go."

When the chrysanthemums were in their full glory, one day when Her Majesty had allowed me to remain at my work while she and the Ladies went for their walk, she brought me, on her return, a curious new variety. When she handed it to me she said, “I will give you something nice if you guess what I have named this flower.” It was one of those new 175 varieties with hair-like petals and a compact center, like the bald head of an old man. I told her I was afraid I couldn’t guess, but I thought “it looked like an old man’s head.” She was delighted, and said, “You have guessed. I have just given it the name of the Old Man of the Mountain.”

When the chrysanthemums were at their peak, one day when Her Majesty let me keep working while she and the ladies went for their walk, she returned with an interesting new variety. As she handed it to me, she said, “I’ll give you something nice if you guess what I’ve named this flower.” It was one of those new varieties with hair-like petals and a compact center, resembling the bald head of an older man. I told her I was afraid I couldn’t guess, but I thought “it looked like an old man’s head.” She was thrilled and said, “You got it! I just named it the Old Man of the Mountain.” 175

We were still having daily walks in the gardens, and there was always some delightful little incident to make them pleasant and memorable. One day, when we were out and were resting, while Her Majesty was sitting alone before the “Peony Mountain,” the young Empress and Ladies stood in a group at a little distance. We were near some arbor-vitæ trees, and the young Empress picked a piece that looked like a “peacock’s feather.” She told me to kneel and let her “decorate” me. She stuck the curiously shaped branch in my hair so that it hung over the neck and looked like the “peacock feather,” which is given as a reward of merit to the highest officials, and is always worn upon their hats. When she had placed it, she told me to rise, and called me “Your Excellency Carl,” which is the title of those who possess the decoration of the peacock feather. I kept it in my hair and soon quite forgot my “decoration.” When we were walking on, Her Majesty noticed it. She had been preoccupied and sad that day, but when she saw it she smiled, and said, “Who decorated you with the peacock feather?” I told her the young Empress had done so. She said that was her prerogative, but she added, “If you were a man you would win it, and probably a yellow jacket also, for you are fearless.” Why did she think me fearless? Could she have 176 heard that the foreigners in Peking seemed to think it was almost as much as taking my life in my own hands to go and live entirely alone among the Chinese at Court, and put myself in Her Majesty’s power, after the Boxer trouble?

We were still taking daily walks in the gardens, and there was always some delightful little moment that made them enjoyable and memorable. One day, while we were out and resting, Her Majesty sat alone in front of the “Peony Mountain,” and the young Empress and the ladies stood together at some distance. We were near some arbor-vitæ trees when the young Empress picked a branch that looked like a “peacock’s feather.” She told me to kneel so she could “decorate” me. She stuck the oddly shaped branch in my hair so it hung over my neck and looked like the “peacock feather,” which is awarded to the highest officials and is always worn on their hats. After placing it, she told me to get up and called me “Your Excellency Carl,” which is the title given to those who receive the decoration of the peacock feather. I kept it in my hair and soon completely forgot about my “decoration.” As we continued walking, Her Majesty noticed it. She had been distracted and sad that day, but when she saw it, she smiled and asked, “Who decorated you with the peacock feather?” I told her it was the young Empress. She mentioned that it was her right to do so, but then she added, “If you were a man, you would earn it, and probably a yellow jacket too, because you are fearless.” Why did she think I was fearless? Could she have heard that foreigners in Peking seemed to think it was almost as risky as putting my life in jeopardy to go and live completely alone among the Chinese at Court, putting myself in Her Majesty’s power after the Boxer troubles?

PAI-LOU IN GROUNDS OF SUMMER PALACE—ON THE SHORE OF THE LAKE

PAI-LOU IN THE GROUNDS OF THE SUMMER PALACE—ON THE SHORE OF THE LAKE

Another afternoon we went into the Great Audience Hall when we were passing it, and I had an opportunity of studying in detail the interior of this magnificent hall. I examined closely some of the rare old niellée bronzes and wonderful Chinese cloisonné, for here are some of the finest specimens in the Summer Palace. In the back of the hall were three pianos, two upright and a new Grand piano, which had but lately arrived at the Palace. Her Majesty wished us to try the Grand piano, and one of Lady Yu-Keng’s daughters, who had studied music in Paris, played a few airs. Her Majesty thought the piano a curious sort of instrument, but lacking in volume and tone for so large an instrument. She asked me to play also, and then said she would like to see how the foreigners danced, and suggested my playing some dance music. The Misses Yu-Keng waltzed, and she thought it very amusing to watch them. She could not, however, understand how ladies and gentlemen could enjoy dancing together, nor what pleasure they found in it. She said the Chinese pay others to dance for them, and would not think of doing so themselves for pleasure. It seemed to her the charm was rather in watching the graceful movements of the dancer than in executing those movements one’s self. I wondered what she would say, could she see one of our crowded European ball-rooms, 177 with hundreds of couples on the floor at the same time, making violent efforts to steer through the crowd. I fancy she would not have found pleasure even in watching these dancers.

One afternoon, we walked into the Great Audience Hall while passing by, and I had a chance to closely examine the interior of this stunning hall. I took a good look at some of the rare old niellée bronzes and amazing Chinese cloisonné, since it contains some of the finest examples in the Summer Palace. At the back of the hall were three pianos: two uprights and a brand-new Grand piano that had just arrived at the Palace. Her Majesty wanted us to try out the Grand piano, and one of Lady Yu-Keng's daughters, who had studied music in Paris, played a few pieces. Her Majesty thought the piano was a curious instrument but felt it lacked volume and tone for something so large. She asked me to play as well, and then expressed interest in seeing how foreigners dance, suggesting I play some dance music. The Misses Yu-Keng waltzed, and she found it very entertaining to watch them. However, she couldn't understand how men and women could enjoy dancing together or what they found pleasurable in it. She said that Chinese people pay others to dance for them and wouldn’t consider doing it themselves for fun. To her, the appeal seemed to be more in watching the dancers' graceful movements than in performing those movements oneself. I wondered what she would think if she could see one of our crowded European ballrooms, 177 with hundreds of couples on the dance floor all at once, making strenuous efforts to navigate through the crowd. I imagine she wouldn’t have enjoyed watching those dancers either.

178

CHAPTER XXI A EUROPEAN CIRCUS AT THE PALACE

Chinese ceremonies and celebrations were not all I was destined to enjoy while at the Summer Palace. There began to be talk of some “foreign entertainment” soon to be given, and when I found this foreign entertainment was to be a circus, a real European circus, I was delighted. I had been out in China two years, and had not had much European entertainment during that time, and—shall I confess it?—I dearly loved a circus if the horses and animals were fine. This circus was then in Tientsin, and some one had suggested to Their Majesties it would be an interesting thing to see. A young Manchu was sent to Tientsin to investigate. When he returned, flaming posters were submitted to Their Majesties by the Chief Eunuchs. When the Empress Dowager saw the vulgarly colored picture of a summarily clad young woman of the show, I was watching her face and I saw a look of contemptuous scorn pass over it. She brightened up, however, when she saw the pictures of the animals at their tricks, and the men on horses, and it was decided that the circus should be brought up from Tientsin! The animals and performers were to be domiciled in one of the parks near by, but the 179 tent was to be stretched within the inclosure of the Palace.

Chinese ceremonies and celebrations were not the only things I got to enjoy while at the Summer Palace. Soon, there was buzz about some "foreign entertainment" that was coming up, and when I discovered it was going to be a circus—a real European circus—I was thrilled. I had been in China for two years and hadn’t experienced much European entertainment during that time, and—can I admit it?—I really loved a circus, especially if the horses and animals were good. The circus was in Tientsin, and someone suggested to Their Majesties that it would be an interesting experience. A young Manchu was sent to Tientsin to check it out. When he returned, the Chief Eunuchs presented colorful posters to Their Majesties. When the Empress Dowager saw the tastelessly bright image of a scantily clad young woman from the show, I noticed a look of scorn on her face. However, she perked up when she looked at the pictures of the animals performing tricks and the men on horseback, and it was decided that the circus should be brought up from Tientsin! The animals and performers were to stay in one of the nearby parks, but the 179 tent was to be set up inside the Palace grounds.

Sites for the ring were discussed, and it was finally decided to have the tents pitched at the extreme western end of the lake. There was a large open field here, planted in turnips! As the turnips were ready to be gathered, it was decided that the crop should be pulled up and this place prepared for the tents.

Sites for the ring were discussed, and it was finally decided to set up the tents at the far western end of the lake. There was a large open field there, planted with turnips! Since the turnips were ready to be harvested, it was decided that the crop should be pulled up and the area prepared for the tents.

One day we went out into the turnip field, and the Empress Dowager herself pulled the first turnip; then the Empress and all the Princesses pulled some, and when they found a curiously shaped one, it was given to Her Majesty. It was a strange sight to see the Great Empress Dowager, sitting there at the side of the field, on her yellow camp-stool, smiling and interested, with the turnips piled around her, and the gaily dressed Empress and Princesses in their silken gowns flitting in and out of the field, apparently enjoying, to its utmost, the simple task of pulling these prosaic vegetables. The eunuchs and attendants stood in crowds around to take the turnips when pulled. They were not allowed, however, to pull any themselves. When a small square was denuded, Her Majesty and the Ladies returned to the Palace, and an army of workmen came and pulled up the whole field and began to prepare the ground for the circus tents.

One day we went out to the turnip field, and the Empress Dowager herself pulled the first turnip; then the Empress and all the Princesses joined in, and when they found a uniquely shaped one, it was given to Her Majesty. It was quite the sight to see the Great Empress Dowager sitting there by the side of the field on her yellow camp chair, smiling and engaged, with turnips piled around her, while the brightly dressed Empress and Princesses in their silk gowns flitted in and out of the field, seemingly enjoying the simple task of pulling these ordinary vegetables. The eunuchs and attendants stood in groups around to collect the turnips once they were pulled, but they weren’t allowed to pull any themselves. After a small section of the field was cleared, Her Majesty and the Ladies returned to the Palace, and a team of laborers came to pull up the rest of the field and start preparing the ground for the circus tents.

As the performance of the circus was to be on the first day of the month, the Imperial players were at the Theater. When the morning Audience was finished, Their Majesties and the Empress and Ladies went to the Theater and listened to two or three plays. After luncheon, taken in the Imperial loge, Their Majesties 180 started for the landing-place, followed by the young Empress and Ladies. The lake was gay with beautiful barges, great houseboats, and numbers of flat boats for the eunuchs. The barges and houseboats were picturesquely decorated with flying banners, pennants, and tasseled wands. Two steam-launches, puffing away, gave an air of modernity to this most Oriental fleet. One of the steam-launches was splendidly decorated with yellow banners, with gorgeous yellow silk scarfs festooned around the cabin and the Imperial flag flying above it. The Empress Dowager and the Emperor descended the marble steps to this gaily decked launch, and started off alone for the other end of the lake, the Imperial banners and colors flying.

As the circus performance was scheduled for the first day of the month, the Imperial players were at the Theater. When the morning session ended, Their Majesties, along with the Empress and the Ladies, went to the Theater to watch two or three plays. After lunch, which was served in the Imperial loge, Their Majesties 180 headed to the landing area, followed by the young Empress and the Ladies. The lake was lively with beautiful barges, large houseboats, and several flat boats for the eunuchs. The barges and houseboats were colorfully decorated with flying banners, pennants, and tasseled wands. Two steam launches, puffing away, added a modern touch to this very Oriental fleet. One of the steam launches was beautifully adorned with yellow banners and gorgeous yellow silk scarves draped around the cabin, with the Imperial flag flying above. The Empress Dowager and the Emperor descended the marble steps to this festively decorated launch and set off alone for the other end of the lake, with the Imperial banners and colors waving.

The Empress and Princesses went in the Empress’s State boat; the visiting ladies followed in another of these ponderous but picturesque affairs. In size they are as large as an ordinary Chinese pavilion. The Empress’s cabin was carpeted and splendidly upholstered in cloth of gold, with the usual tea-tables and lounges. It had one of those gallery-like prows with silken awnings, where the Princesses stood. The young Empress sat within, on one of the gold-covered couches. As she had been brought up with several of the Princesses as playmates, the young Empress generally waived ceremony with them; but she knew how, when necessary, to maintain a sweet dignity that was charming and perfectly in accord with her exalted position. To-day was a State occasion. She sat alone, and the Ladies remained outside on the prow. She asked me to come in and showed 181 me the interior and some of the curiously inlaid tables. She knew I was interested in all these things. She made me sit at her side, and when I demurred she said she knew it was not the foreign custom to sit on cushions on the floor, as was the habit of the Ladies when in her presence, and that I must sit beside her. This was the consideration they always showed me at the Palace, which I fully realized was not due to any special liking for me, but simply to their exquisite breeding—their desire to make me feel comfortable and at home.

The Empress and the Princesses traveled in the Empress’s State boat, while the visiting ladies followed in another of these heavy but beautiful vessels. They were about the size of a typical Chinese pavilion. The Empress’s cabin was carpeted and luxuriously furnished in gold fabric, complete with the usual tea tables and lounges. It featured one of those gallery-style prows adorned with silk awnings, where the Princesses stood. The young Empress sat inside on one of the gold-covered couches. Having grown up with several of the Princesses as playmates, she usually bypassed formalities with them; yet, she knew how to maintain a sweet dignity that was charming and perfectly suited to her high status when needed. Today was a State occasion. She sat alone while the Ladies remained outside on the prow. She invited me in and showed me the interior and some of the intricately inlaid tables, knowing I was interested in such things. She made me sit next to her, and when I hesitated, she explained that she understood it wasn’t the custom for foreigners to sit on cushions on the floor, as the Ladies did in her presence, and insisted I sit beside her. This was the courtesy they always extended to me at the Palace, which I recognized was not due to any particular affection for me, but simply to their refined upbringing—their desire to make me feel comfortable and at home. 181

When we arrived at the other side of the lake, the Empress and Ladies stood while Their Majesties landed. They were welcomed by a great burst of music from the bands. A number of Princes and Officials stood waiting to receive them and conduct them to the handsome loges that had been prepared for them.

When we got to the other side of the lake, the Empress and the Ladies stood while Their Majesties got off the boat. They were greeted by a loud burst of music from the bands. Several Princes and Officials were waiting to greet them and take them to the beautiful loges that had been set up for them.

It was a picturesque procession that started from the landing-place—the Empress Dowager and the Emperor, under the big, embroidered, yellow silk, State umbrellas, preceded and surrounded by gorgeously attired attendants and splendidly gowned officials, the young Empress and Ladies, in gala attire, following after, with their eunuchs and attendants. The day was perfect, and glorious sunshine added to the brilliant effect. The side of the tent toward the Imperial loges was open. There was a railed platform before the pavilions that had been erected as “loges.” These pavilions were luxuriously fitted up: Their Majesties’ loges were hung with the Imperial yellow. A yellow satin chair (with a smaller one at its left) was placed in the center of the raised platform, under the silken awning, and 182 Their Majesties could sit here or within as they chose. The Empress and Ladies stood in groups on either side of this platform.

It was a beautiful parade that started from the landing area—the Empress Dowager and the Emperor, under the large, embroidered yellow silk State umbrellas, preceded and surrounded by elegantly dressed attendants and splendidly outfitted officials, with the young Empress and Ladies in festive attire following behind, along with their eunuchs and attendants. The day was perfect, and the bright sunshine enhanced the stunning scene. The side of the tent facing the Imperial boxes was open. There was a railed platform in front of the pavilions set up as “boxes.” These pavilions were luxuriously decorated: Their Majesties’ boxes were draped in Imperial yellow. A yellow satin chair (with a smaller one to its left) was placed in the center of the raised platform, under the silk awning, and 182 Their Majesties could sit here or inside as they preferred. The Empress and Ladies stood in groups on either side of this platform.

About two hundred officials had been invited to see the circus, and, contrary to the usual custom, there was no screen between them and the Imperial party. On the right were two bands of foreign music, or rather of Chinese musicians who played foreign music on European instruments. These were the bands of Yuan-Shih-Kai, Viceroy of Tientsin, and of Sir Robert Hart, the Inspector-General of Imperial Customs. Sir Robert’s band was formed about eighteen years since, when, as music is his hobby, he decided to try to have some Chinese taught European music on European instruments. He has now a well-equipped band of twenty trained Chinese musicians under a competent European conductor. They play on both brass and stringed instruments. His efforts have been so successful that his example has lately been followed by several high Chinese Officials, first among whom was Yuan-Shih-Kai. The latter’s band is military, with fifty musicians, who play only on brass instruments. The two bands played alternately during the intervals of the performance.

About two hundred officials were invited to watch the circus, and, breaking from tradition, there was no barrier between them and the Imperial party. On the right were two groups of musicians, or rather, Chinese musicians playing foreign music on European instruments. These groups were from Yuan-Shih-Kai, the Viceroy of Tientsin, and Sir Robert Hart, the Inspector-General of Imperial Customs. Sir Robert’s band was established about eighteen years ago, when, since music is his passion, he decided to have some Chinese learn European music on European instruments. He now has a well-equipped band of twenty trained Chinese musicians led by a skilled European conductor. They play both brass and string instruments. His efforts have been so successful that other high-ranking Chinese officials have recently followed suit, with Yuan-Shih-Kai being the first. Yuan-Shih-Kai’s band is military and consists of fifty musicians who only play brass instruments. The two bands took turns playing during the breaks in the performance.

For the first time during my residence at the Palace, I now had an opportunity of seeing the Imperial Princes and many of the great nobles and officials. Though they were often asked to the Theater at the Palace, the screen between them and the Imperial loge was never removed, except at the end of the performance, when they bowed their thanks and when the Ladies retired to their own loge. The gentlemen, 183 however, could be well seen at the circus; and though the Chinese Ladies did not glance in their direction, I took advantage of being a foreigner, and when I was behind the others, and could do so without being seen, I closely scanned their faces and attire. Several of the Princes of the Imperial Family came up to the platform where Their Majesties sat and made their bows to them, afterward slightly saluting their relations among the Ladies and Princesses.

For the first time during my stay at the Palace, I had the chance to see the Imperial Princes and many of the high-ranking nobles and officials. Even though they were often invited to the Theater at the Palace, the barrier between them and the Imperial loge was never taken down, except at the end of the performance when they bowed in thanks and the Ladies returned to their own loge. The gentlemen, 183 however, could be easily seen at the circus; and while the Chinese Ladies didn’t look in their direction, I took advantage of being a foreigner, and when I was behind the others, I closely examined their faces and outfits without being noticed. Several of the Princes of the Imperial Family came up to the platform where Their Majesties were seated and bowed to them, then slightly acknowledged their relatives among the Ladies and Princesses.

Among these young Princes at the circus was a son of Prince Kung and an adopted son of the Imperial Princess. This young man not only had a remarkably fine figure, tall and slender, with broad shoulders, but his face was very handsome. His bow, on coming up to pay his respects to Their Majesties, was as graceful as that of a young chevalier. His regard was so ingenuous, his expression so clever and withal so modest, his whole demeanor so gracious, I was much struck with him. His dress was elegant, and his jewels chosen with discretion. There was none of that overloading of belt ornamentation that the young dandies of the Imperial set were then affecting. His father was one of the great Princes of China, and if this young man develops and carries out the promise of his youth (he was then only seventeen), I fancy he will be heard of also. Like most of the young Manchu Princes, he held a position in the Imperial household, such as Master of the Horse or Captain of the Archers.

Among the young princes at the circus was a son of Prince Kung and an adopted son of the Imperial Princess. This young man not only had a remarkably fine physique—tall and slender with broad shoulders—but his face was also very handsome. When he approached to pay his respects to Their Majesties, his bow was as graceful as that of a young knight. His gaze was so sincere, his expression clever yet modest, and his overall demeanor so gracious that I was quite taken with him. His outfit was elegant, and his jewelry was chosen carefully. He didn’t overload himself with belt ornaments like the young dandy princes of the Imperial court at that time. His father was one of the great princes of China, and if this young man fulfills the promise of his youth (he was only seventeen then), I believe he will make a name for himself as well. Like most young Manchu princes, he held a position in the Imperial household, such as Master of the Horse or Captain of the Archers.

It was not much of a circus, but none of the Imperial party had ever seen one before, and the setting was so gorgeous, it was unique as a circus performance even to me. The Empress Dowager and the Emperor 184 had splendidly jeweled opera glasses, which a eunuch held ready for their use. The Emperor, disliking to be looked at, held his own glasses before his face most of the time. It seemed to me he used them principally for the purpose of screening himself. The animals pleased both Their Majesties; but aside from the dwarfs, of which there were two, the rest of the performers seemed to have but a mediocre interest for them. Her Majesty was particularly interested in the dogs and trained animals, and His Majesty in the horses and fancy riding. I was standing near him, and he looked keenly at me several times to see how the performance struck me; and one of his head eunuchs asked me in English—the Emperor would not try it—whether I thought it was “good or bad.” Their Majesties sat through the performance, the Empress Dowager only retiring to her loge once during the time, which was while one of the summarily clad young ladies was gyrating on a trapeze. There was a magnificent tigress which the circus master had trained, and which was his “pièce de résistance.” The Empress Dowager would not allow this to be taken out of its cage, and though it was brought out in front of the Imperial platform, it was too cat-like to interest her. She has a great antipathy to anything feline. When the performance was finished, the Imperial party left in the same state in which it had arrived, Their Majesties accompanied to the launch by the Princes and high Officials, the music of the two bands playing simultaneously. The Ladies of the Palace and Their Majesties, themselves, have so little novelty in their lives, I think, on the whole, the innovation of the circus was generally appreciated.

It wasn't much of a circus, but none of the Imperial party had ever seen one before, and the setting was so beautiful, it was unique as a circus performance even for me. The Empress Dowager and the Emperor had stunning, jeweled opera glasses, which a eunuch held ready for them. The Emperor, who didn’t like being seen, held his glasses up to his face most of the time. It seemed like he mainly used them to hide himself. The animals impressed both Their Majesties; but apart from the two dwarfs, the other performers didn’t seem to capture their interest much. Her Majesty was especially fascinated by the dogs and trained animals, while His Majesty was interested in the horses and fancy riding. I stood near him, and he glanced at me several times to gauge my reaction to the performance; one of his head eunuchs asked me in English—since the Emperor wouldn't attempt it—whether I thought it was “good or bad.” Their Majesties stayed for the whole performance, with the Empress Dowager only leaving her loge once, during the time a young lady in minimal attire was performing on a trapeze. There was a magnificent tigress that the circus master had trained, which was his “pièce de résistance.” The Empress Dowager wouldn’t allow it to be taken out of its cage, and although it was brought out in front of the Imperial platform, it was too cat-like to engage her interest. She has a strong aversion to anything feline. When the performance ended, the Imperial party left just as they had arrived, Their Majesties accompanied to the launch by the Princes and high Officials, with the music of the two bands playing together. The Ladies of the Palace and Their Majesties have so little excitement in their lives, that overall, I think the novelty of the circus was appreciated.

185

CHAPTER XXII PALACE TRADITIONS

The Empress Dowager is an early riser, but the joint Audiences which Their Majesties now hold are never at the extraordinary hours in vogue when His Majesty ruled alone. When there is a press of business, and many heads of departments to be seen, the Audiences begin very early, but they rarely extend past eleven o’clock—the usual hours being from half-past seven to eleven.

The Empress Dowager gets up early, but the joint Audiences that Their Majesties hold now don’t take place at the unusual hours that were popular when His Majesty ruled alone. When there’s a lot of business to handle and many department heads to meet, the Audiences start very early, but they rarely go past eleven o’clock—the typical hours are from seven-thirty to eleven.

When the Empress Dowager sleeps, a maid watches in her room, two eunuchs stand on guard in the ante-chamber to the room, four watch at the door of the ante-chamber, and her body-guard of eunuchs fill the building where her private apartments are situated. The maid and eunuchs who watch in the night are changed every second day. Only the High Eunuchs are intrusted with the duty of guarding her bed-chamber and Throne-room. At the Summer Palace, Her Majesty’s bedroom is not more than fifteen feet square; the bed, like all in North China, is built into an alcove in the room. Shelves run around the three inclosed sides of the alcove, and on these are placed Her Majesty’s favorite ornaments—small jade curios, books, and, of course, clocks. In this bedroom I 186 counted fifteen timepieces on the bed shelves, and all running. Their ticking and striking, not at all simultaneous, was enough to run a nervous European woman wild; but Her Majesty takes so much outdoor exercise, she seemed to have no nerves. There were no flowers in her bedroom, but the ante-chamber, leading into it, was always full of flowers, pyramids of apples, and “Buddha’s hands.” [5] The bed-alcove is separated from the room by satin curtains, suspended from a handsomely embroidered valance, with two long embroidered bands to loop them back.

When the Empress Dowager sleeps, a maid keeps watch in her room, two eunuchs stand guard in the ante-chamber, four watch at the door of the ante-chamber, and her bodyguard of eunuchs fills the building where her private apartments are located. The maid and eunuchs on night duty are changed every two days. Only the High Eunuchs are entrusted with the responsibility of guarding her bedchamber and Throne-room. At the Summer Palace, Her Majesty’s bedroom is about fifteen feet square; the bed, like all in North China, is built into an alcove in the room. Shelves run around the three enclosed sides of the alcove, and on these are placed Her Majesty’s favorite ornaments—small jade curios, books, and, of course, clocks. In this bedroom I 186 counted fifteen timepieces on the bed shelves, and all were running. Their ticking and striking, not at all in sync, would drive a nervous European woman crazy; but Her Majesty takes so much outdoor exercise that she seemed to have no nerves. There were no flowers in her bedroom, but the ante-chamber leading into it was always full of flowers, piles of apples, and “Buddha’s hands.” [5] The bed-alcove is separated from the room by satin curtains, suspended from a beautifully embroidered valance, with two long embroidered bands to tie them back.

Her Majesty is a light and irregular sleeper. When she wakes and finds it impossible to go to sleep again, she rises, is dressed, and often goes for a walk in the grounds, at what we would call the most unseasonable of hours. She says Nature is beautiful at every hour of the twenty-four, with a different charm for each moment. As she loves it in all its phases, she likes to see it at every hour of the twenty-four, at least once a year! When she wakes and goes for a walk at night, the eunuchs who are on duty in her Palace accompany her with lanterns, but she never takes these night walks, except by moonlight, and when the night is beautiful.

Her Majesty is a light and irregular sleeper. When she wakes up and can't fall back asleep, she gets up, gets dressed, and often goes for a walk around the grounds at what we would consider the most unusual hours. She believes that nature is beautiful at all times of the day, each moment with its own unique charm. Since she appreciates it in all its forms, she likes to experience it at every hour of the day, at least once a year! When she wakes up and goes for a walk at night, the eunuchs on duty in her palace accompany her with lanterns, but she only goes on these night walks when it’s moonlit and the night is lovely.

Whether she has slept well or ill, she rises at six o’clock; for the morning is devoted to business, and she never misses an Audience. On rising, she takes a bowl of hot milk, or lotus-root porridge; then her maids and tiring-women begin her toilet for the Audience. This is the “grande toilette” for the day, for full dress is worn by the Chinese in the morning, and in the evening they wear simple gowns. When her toilet is finished, 187 the young Empress and Ladies, having “assisted” (from without) at her “lever,” she comes out into the Throne-room and receives their morning greeting. The Emperor then comes to pay his respects to the Great Ancestress, and together they go in State, accompanied by all the Ladies of the Court, to the Great Audience Hall. The Ladies of the Court remain outside the Great Hall until the Audience is finished, when they accompany Her Majesty to her Throne-room. The business of the day is then over. Her Majesty lays aside her robes of State and gives herself up to duties connected with the Palace.

Whether she has slept well or poorly, she gets up at six o’clock; the morning is dedicated to business, and she never skips her Audience. After rising, she has a bowl of hot milk or lotus-root porridge; then her maids and attendants start getting her ready for the Audience. This is the “grande toilette” for the day, as full dress is worn by the Chinese in the morning, while they wear simpler gowns in the evening. Once her preparations are complete, 187 the young Empress and Ladies, having “assisted” (from outside) at her getting up, she steps into the Throne-room to receive their morning greetings. The Emperor then comes to pay his respects to the Great Ancestress, and together they proceed in State, accompanied by all the Ladies of the Court, to the Great Audience Hall. The Ladies of the Court wait outside the Great Hall until the Audience is finished, after which they accompany Her Majesty back to her Throne-room. The day’s business is then concluded. Her Majesty removes her robes of State and focuses on her duties related to the Palace.

While I was painting the portraits, she would pose on returning from the Audience; or, if the Audience had been too tiring, she would first go for a walk. Then would begin her various self-imposed household duties. She would overlook the baskets of flowers and fruits sent into the Palace daily, select some to be sent as presents, and send others to the eunuchs of the kitchen to be cooked. Then she would look at new rolls of silk, just arrived from the Imperial looms, or examine new articles of toilet, fresh from the workshops of the Palace tailors. Sometimes she would play a game, of which she seemed very fond, and of which I know no counterpart. It was played on a large square board, covered with white silk and painted in fantastic designs, representing the Earth and Fairyland. The object of the game was to get an ivory chessman, representing “man,” into Fairyland. The length of the move was decided by throwing dice. There was no box for throwing the dice: they were taken in the hands and thrown into a jade bowl. The numbers 188 uppermost were then counted and the move made. She would play this game with the Princesses; and sometimes two of the High Eunuchs, who were proficient, would be called in to make out the number. The game was played for money, but, if Her Majesty won, the others did not pay. If, however, they won, she paid, and at once. She was ever a cheerful giver. She had wonderful luck, and it was a rare occurrence for the others to win. I only happened to see it three times. The Princesses were always pleased to play this game, for they had a chance of winning and they never lost. One day I saw her get quite angry with one of the Ladies playing. This Lady could not bear to lose, and would get sulky and cross if she did. This annoyed Her Majesty, until finally she reproved her sharply. She asked her why she played a game if she were not willing to take her chances as they came, and meet loss or gain with equal equanimity.

While I was painting the portraits, she would pose after returning from the Audience; or, if the Audience had been too exhausting, she would first take a walk. Then she would start her various self-assigned household tasks. She would oversee the baskets of flowers and fruits that were sent to the Palace daily, picking some to be given as gifts, while sending others to the kitchen eunuchs to be prepared. After that, she would check out the new rolls of silk that had just arrived from the Imperial looms or look at new toiletries fresh from the Palace tailors. Sometimes she would play a game that she seemed to really enjoy, and I’ve never seen anything like it. It was played on a large square board, covered in white silk with elaborate designs depicting the Earth and Fairyland. The goal of the game was to get an ivory chess piece, representing “man,” into Fairyland. The length of each move was determined by rolling dice. There wasn’t a box for throwing the dice; they were held in the hands and tossed into a jade bowl. The top numbers were then counted, and the move was made. She would play this game with the Princesses, and sometimes two of the High Eunuchs, who were skilled, would be called in to help with the numbers. The game was played for money, but if Her Majesty won, the others didn’t have to pay. However, if they won, she would pay immediately. She was always a generous giver. She had incredible luck, and it was rare for the others to win. I only witnessed it happen three times. The Princesses always enjoyed playing this game since they had a chance of winning, and they never lost. One day, I saw her get quite upset with one of the Ladies playing. This Lady couldn't stand losing and would sulk and get angry if she did. This irritated Her Majesty, who finally scolded her. She asked why she played if she wasn’t willing to accept whatever outcome came and handle both loss and win with the same calmness.

PRINCESSES OF THE COURT

Court Princesses

The Empress Dowager only eats two solid meals a day—luncheon and dinner. These were exactly similar. The dishes, so far as I could see, were identical; but they were so numerous, and of such variety, one could make a change of menu by eating different dishes. The hours of these two meals were very irregular; in fact, Her Majesty had no fixed hour for anything except rising and attendance at the Audience Hall. “Early rice,” as the Chinese call luncheon, was served the Empress Dowager at any time between half-past ten and half-past twelve. She was likely to order it at any hour after she returned from the Audience. “Late rice,” or dinner, was ordered with the same irregularity. She was very fond of nuts and 189 fruits, and ate them between meals, when she drank tea, hot milk, and certain fruit juices.

The Empress Dowager only has two solid meals a day—lunch and dinner. They were exactly the same. The dishes, as far as I could tell, were identical; but there were so many of them and such a variety that you could switch things up by choosing different dishes. The times for these two meals were very irregular; in fact, Her Majesty didn’t have a set time for anything except getting up and going to the Audience Hall. “Early rice,” as the Chinese call lunch, was served to the Empress Dowager anytime between 10:30 and 12:30. She was likely to request it at any time after she returned from the Audience. “Late rice,” or dinner, was ordered with the same irregularity. She really liked nuts and 189 fruits, and she snacked on them between meals while drinking tea, hot milk, and certain fruit juices.

The young Empress and Ladies of the Court were not bound to these irregular hours. They ordered their meals in their own pavilions at the hours they wished. Sometimes they had but just finished their own meals, when the Empress Dowager would order hers, and, when she had finished, invite them to eat at her table. Then it would be a matter of etiquette to eat with, at least apparent, relish. At this meal at Her Majesty’s table, her place remained vacant. When I was in the Palace and we were invited to eat at her table, the Ladies sat; but when I was not there, the Ladies stood to eat, if she were still in the building, thus observing a very old convention. The Empress Dowager was very rigid about the observance of all traditional customs, and a stickler for Court etiquette, but she was also very considerate of the Ladies. When she had eaten, she would leave her Throne-room, or would conceal herself behind some screen, so that they might sit and eat in peace. I have seen her return to the Throne-room while the Ladies were eating, but she would do it stealthily, not allowing the eunuchs to precede her, so that the Ladies might not be obliged to rise on her entrance.

The young Empress and the Ladies of the Court weren't tied to these odd hours. They ordered their meals in their own pavilions whenever they wanted. Sometimes they had just finished eating when the Empress Dowager would call for her meal, and after she was done, she would invite them to join her at her table. At that point, it was polite to eat with a show of enjoyment. During these meals at Her Majesty's table, her place was always empty. When I was in the Palace and we were invited to eat there, the Ladies would sit; but when I wasn't present, they had to stand to eat if she was still in the building, following a very old tradition. The Empress Dowager was quite strict about adhering to all traditional customs and was very particular about Court etiquette, but she was also considerate of the Ladies. Once she had eaten, she would leave her Throne-room or hide behind a screen so they could sit and eat in peace. I’ve seen her quietly return to the Throne-room while the Ladies were eating, making sure the eunuchs didn’t go in front of her, so the Ladies wouldn’t have to stand when she entered.

When the Empress Dowager dined, she sat at the head of a long table absolutely groaning under the many dishes placed thereon. Huge silver platters stood on side tables with sucking-pig, steamed goose, whole fowls, etc. Before serving the latter, they were brought to her to look at, just as the butler, in Europe, shows the pheasant and set dishes to the mistress 190 of the house. Her dishes were of yellow porcelain, with curiously chased silver covers of pyramidal shape and quaint design. When she arose to go to the table, a eunuch standing near would shout, “Remove the covers,” the word would be repeated along the line of waiting eunuchs, who would spring forward and whip off the covers of the many dishes on the table as if by magic. At Her Majesty’s place were two spoons, a saucer and bowl, a pair of chop-sticks, and a small folded square of soft cloth, corresponding to our napkin. When she sat down, she attached to the front of her dress, by a quaint, golden pin, a large silken napkin,—for she was immaculately neat and had a horror of a spot on her clothes. She was an epicure and thoroughly appreciated any new dish the Palace cooks sent forth, and, like all epicures, she ate very slowly and seemed to enjoy her food. She never drank wine or anything else at meals. I only saw her drink wine on two occasions, when some new vintages had been received at the Palace, and then it seemed more to judge of their merits, as a connoisseur, than anything else. When she finished her meal and left the table, the eunuchs brought hot cloths for her hands and a golden “rince-bouche.” After this, one of the maids would bring her a silver basin, soap, and towels, and she would indulge in an elaborate hand-washing.

When the Empress Dowager dined, she sat at the head of a long table that was completely loaded with a variety of dishes. Huge silver platters held roasted pig, steamed goose, whole chickens, and more on side tables. Before serving any of these, the dishes were brought to her for inspection, similar to how a butler in Europe shows a pheasant and side dishes to the lady of the house. 190 Her dishes were made of yellow porcelain, with uniquely designed silver covers shaped like pyramids. When she stood up to go to the table, a nearby eunuch would shout, “Remove the covers,” and the command would echo down the line of waiting eunuchs, who would spring into action and swiftly take off the covers from the various dishes on the table as if by magic. At her place, there were two spoons, a saucer and bowl, a pair of chopsticks, and a small folded square of soft cloth that served as her napkin. When she sat down, she pinned a large silk napkin to the front of her dress with a decorative golden pin—she was impeccably tidy and abhorred any stains on her clothing. She was a true foodie and thoroughly enjoyed any new dishes the Palace cooks prepared, and like all food enthusiasts, she savored her meals and took her time. She never drank wine or anything else during meals. I only saw her drink wine on two occasions when new vintages arrived at the Palace, and even then it was more for the purpose of judging their quality, like a connoisseur. After finishing her meal and leaving the table, the eunuchs brought her hot cloths for her hands and a golden “rince-bouche.” Following this, one of the maids would bring her a silver basin, soap, and towels, and she would engage in an elaborate hand-washing ritual.

After “Early rice” came the hour of her siesta. She would retire to her bedroom, and her reader, bringing several volumes from which to choose, would come to read to her. She would remain in her room for an hour and a half, whether sleeping or being 191 read to. When she awoke, she would make another careful toilet, the Ladies would join her, and she would go for a long walk before taking “Late rice.”

After “Early rice,” it was time for her nap. She would head to her bedroom, and her reader, bringing a few books to choose from, would come to read to her. She would stay in her room for an hour and a half, either sleeping or listening to the reading. When she woke up, she would freshen up again, the ladies would join her, and she would go for a long walk before having “Late rice.” 191

On the first and fifteenth of the month, the Imperial players were at the Theater. On these days, the Emperor, instead of returning to his own Palace, would accompany the Empress Dowager and the Ladies from the Audience Hall to the Theater. The Imperial Hymn was played on Their Majesties’ entrance into the court of the Theater, and when they had entered the Imperial loge, the players would come in a body on the stage and “kow-tow.” Then the actors, splendidly gowned, would make the customary wishes for the Imperial Peace, Prosperity, Longevity, after which there would be a posture-play in costume, and then the plays for the day would begin. On Theater days Their Majesties would lunch and dine together in the Imperial loge. They did not sit at the ends of the great table, but at right angles to each other—the Emperor at the head of the table, and the Empress Dowager at his left. His Majesty was not much of an epicure. He ate fast, and apparently did not care what it was. When he finished, he would stand up near Her Majesty, or walk around the Throne-room until she had finished.

On the first and fifteenth of the month, the Imperial players were at the Theater. On these days, the Emperor would skip returning to his Palace and instead accompany the Empress Dowager and the Ladies from the Audience Hall to the Theater. The Imperial Hymn played as They Majesties entered the court of the Theater, and once they settled into the Imperial loge, the players would come out on stage and bow deeply. Then the actors, dressed in their finest costumes, would offer the usual wishes for Imperial Peace, Prosperity, and Longevity, followed by a costume performance, and then the day's plays would start. On Theater days, Their Majesties lunched and dined together in the Imperial loge. They didn't sit at the ends of the large table but at right angles to each other—the Emperor at the head and the Empress Dowager to his left. His Majesty wasn't much of a foodie. He ate quickly and seemed indifferent to what it was. When he finished, he would stand close to Her Majesty or walk around the Throne room until she was done.

The Empress Dowager was very rigorous in the observance of all fasts, as well as feasts, prescribed by the rites. On fast-days, no meat nor fish was eaten at her table. The meals consisted entirely of vegetables, bread, and rice; but there was always a great variety of these dishes, and they were temptingly prepared. Meat dishes and fish were always prepared 192 for me when I was invited to eat at the Imperial table on fast-days, until I learned that the Empress Dowager and the Ladies were fasting, when I asked to eat only what was prepared for them when I dined with them at Her Majesty’s table.

The Empress Dowager strictly followed all the fasting and feasting rituals. On fasting days, no meat or fish was served at her table. The meals were made up entirely of vegetables, bread, and rice, but there was always a wide variety, and they were prepared in an appealing way. Whenever I was invited to dine at the Imperial table on fasting days, meat and fish dishes were always prepared for me, until I learned that the Empress Dowager and the ladies were fasting. Then, I requested to eat only what was made for them when I dined with Her Majesty. 192

On Festivals and Theater days, Princesses of the Imperial Family, wives of Manchu Nobles, and high Officials were invited to spend the day at the Palace. Sometimes their children would accompany them, little girls and boys under twelve. I never saw a boy over seventeen in the Palace; and only once, one sixteen years old. This was a son of Prince Ching. When these young people came to the Court, they observed the same rules of etiquette as their elders, and behaved with great decorum. Her Majesty is very fond of children, but very particular as to their manners. When a little girl did not make a graceful bow, Her Majesty would not correct her, but would ask the young Empress, an authority on etiquette and very graceful, to bow. Her Majesty would then tell the little girl to notice how the Empress bowed and try to do it in that manner. The child, or her parents, generally followed this suggestion, and the grace of the bow was improved on the next visit to Court!

On festival and theater days, princesses from the imperial family, wives of Manchu nobles, and high-ranking officials were invited to spend the day at the palace. Sometimes their children accompanied them, little girls and boys under twelve. I never saw a boy over seventeen at the palace, except for one sixteen-year-old son of Prince Ching. When these young people visited the court, they followed the same etiquette rules as their elders and behaved with great decorum. Her Majesty really likes children but is very particular about their manners. If a little girl didn’t make a graceful bow, Her Majesty wouldn’t correct her directly; instead, she would ask the young Empress, who is an authority on etiquette and very graceful, to bow. Then, Her Majesty would tell the little girl to observe how the Empress bowed and try to do it like that. The child or her parents usually took this advice, and the grace of the bow improved on their next visit to court!

On one occasion, a lady of high rank, married to a kinsman of the Empress Dowager, was invited to the Palace with her family. She had two little girls, and when the family went up to bow and repeat the salutation to Her Majesty, the younger daughter, only five years old, refused either to make the bow or repeat the salutation, but sat down on the floor and 193 cried! The Empress Dowager waited patiently for the mother to correct the little girl, for she is very fond of children and disposed to condone their faults. The little girl would not, however, listen to reason and continued to show temper. Her Majesty could not allow such a breach of the “Proprieties,” even in a child of this age, and the high rank of the family of the little girl made it the more imperative that she should conform to the rules of Propriety and observe the etiquette of the Court. When Her Majesty saw that all efforts at bringing her to reason were fruitless, she ordered the child to be taken away. Whereupon the mother began crying, and begged her not to be offended with the little girl. She replied, “Do you think a person of superior intelligence could be offended with a baby? I send you out of the Palace to teach you a lesson, which you must teach your child. I do not blame her; I blame you and pity her; but she must suffer as well as yourself. You must teach your child that ‘it is by the rules of propriety that the character is established’ (Confucius)”; and she was inexorable. The family left the Palace and was not invited again for some time.

One time, a woman of high status, who was married to a relative of the Empress Dowager, was invited to the Palace with her family. She had two young daughters, and when the family went to bow and greet Her Majesty, the younger girl, who was only five years old, refused to bow or greet her. Instead, she sat on the floor and cried! The Empress Dowager patiently waited for the mother to calm her daughter, as she loved children and was generally forgiving of their behavior. However, the little girl wouldn’t listen and continued to act out. Her Majesty couldn’t allow such a breach of etiquette, even from a child, and given the family's high status, it was even more important for her to follow the Court's rules. When Her Majesty realized that all attempts to reason with the girl were in vain, she ordered her to be taken away. This made the mother start crying, begging Her Majesty not to be upset with the little girl. The Empress Dowager responded, “Do you think someone with greater wisdom could be offended by a child? I’m sending you out of the Palace to teach you a lesson that you need to pass on to your daughter. I don't blame her; I blame you and feel sorry for her; but she has to face consequences just like you do. You must teach your child that ‘it is by the rules of propriety that the character is established’ (Confucius),” and she was stern about it. The family left the Palace and didn’t receive another invitation for quite some time.

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CHAPTER XXIII Her Majesty's Birthday Anxiety

Her Majesty was looking tired and anxious these days; the Audiences were unusually long, and despatches were arriving all during the day. She would often go to the Gardens immediately after her Audience for solitary walks, unattended by the Ladies, and when she went out for the walk, accompanied by the Empress and Princesses, she would sit distraught and abstracted before the finest views and those she loved most. She seemed absent-minded, and when some eunuch with the official message would kneel before her, awaiting her order to deliver his message, she would recall herself with an effort. One day when we were out, after days of this anxiety, and she was sitting alone in front of the “Peony Mountain,” the Empress and Princesses standing in a group at a little distance, she looked a pathetic figure. Her strong face looked tired and worn. Her arms hung listlessly by her sides and she seemed almost to have given up, and I saw her, furtively, brush a tear away. The days were so like each other at the Palace, the Chinese dates being different from ours, I lost my reckoning until I had a Tientsin paper, and I saw that the date on which the Russians had promised to evacuate 195 Manchuria had passed and they were making no move toward doing so; and that there were rumors of war between Japan and Russia. This, then, must be what was weighing upon the mind of the Empress Dowager. A few days later a telegram was handed her in the Throne-room while she was posing, that seemed to greatly agitate her. It was from Kwang Hsi, and reported the ineffectual attempts of the authorities to put down a serious rebellion there. Thus, there were interior as well as exterior troubles to make her anxious. She seemed to take these State troubles to heart; and it was touching to see her anxiety, which she made but little effort to conceal when surrounded only by the Ladies. The Emperor, on the contrary, preserved his usual calm exterior, and if he was racked by anxiety, showed no evidence of it. This may have been because he had schooled himself to hide his feelings. Be that as it may, his face had always that enigmatic smile lurking around the corners of his mouth. I fancied, though, his eyes looked more resigned and sadder than usual.

Her Majesty has been looking tired and anxious lately; the Audiences have been unusually lengthy, and dispatches have been coming in throughout the day. She often heads to the Gardens right after her Audience for solitary walks, without the Ladies, and when she does go out accompanied by the Empress and Princesses, she sits lost in thought in front of her favorite views. She seems preoccupied, and when an eunuch with an official message kneels before her, waiting for her to give him the go-ahead, she struggles to pull herself together. One day, after several days of this tension, while she sat alone in front of the "Peony Mountain" with the Empress and Princesses standing a little way off, she looked like a sad figure. Her strong face appeared tired and worn. Her arms hung limply at her sides, and she seemed almost to have given up; I noticed her quietly wipe away a tear. The days at the Palace all felt the same, and since the Chinese dates are different from ours, I lost track of time until I got a Tientsin paper and saw that the date the Russians had promised to leave Manchuria had come and gone, with no sign of them moving. There were also rumors of war between Japan and Russia. This must be what was weighing on the Empress Dowager’s mind. A few days later, she received a telegram in the Throne-room while she was posing, and it seemed to deeply upset her. It was from Kwang Hsi, reporting the unsuccessful attempts of the authorities to quell a serious rebellion there. So, she faced both internal and external troubles that made her anxious. It was touching to see how much she cared, which she barely tried to hide when it was just the Ladies around her. The Emperor, on the other hand, maintained his usual calm demeanor, and if he was feeling anxious, he didn’t show it. Perhaps he had trained himself to hide his emotions. Regardless, his face always had that mysterious smile at the corners of his mouth. Still, I thought his eyes looked more resigned and sadder than usual.

The date of the Empress Dowager’s Birthday (November 16) was approaching, and preparations to celebrate it were beginning. She was determined to keep this celebration very simple. She issued edicts prohibiting the high Officials and Viceroys from sending the extravagant presents which always pour in at the celebration of the birthday of any one of her age in China. She recommended great economy in expenditures for the celebration, saying it would be improper and unworthy at this time of National distress, when the Foreign Indemnity was not yet paid, to make a 196 large outlay for her Birthday. The celebration of a birthday in China is a great event, almost a religious ceremony, and is observed with great rejoicings by all classes. The poorest in the land, if they are not able to keep any other festival, always celebrate with as much pomp as possible the birthdays of their parents. This is one of the duties enjoined by the Book of Rites, and, in spite of Her Majesty’s expressed wishes on the subject, the Emperor could not allow her Birthday to pass without a fitting celebration.

The Empress Dowager’s birthday (November 16) was coming up, and preparations for the celebration were starting. She was set on keeping this celebration very simple. She issued orders to high officials and viceroys, banning the usual extravagant gifts that flood in for birthdays of those her age in China. She encouraged strict budget management for the celebration, stating that it would be inappropriate and unworthy during this time of national distress, especially since the foreign indemnity hadn’t been paid yet, to spend a lot on her birthday. In China, celebrating a birthday is a big deal, almost like a religious ceremony, and all social classes join in the festivities. Even the poorest people, if they can’t celebrate any other festival, will go all out for their parents' birthdays. This is one of the duties outlined in the Book of Rites, and despite her wishes, the Emperor couldn't let her birthday go by without an appropriate celebration.

The Emperor beseeched Her Majesty “on bended knee” to allow him to have her Birthday celebrated with the same pomp as usual—to permit him to add another honorific title to the sixteen she already possessed—but though she was very proud of her titles, which the Ministers and Emperor had conferred upon her at different times, she was inexorable on this point, for the adding of a new title would necessitate an annual grant of twelve thousand dollars in gold. She also insisted that everything must be on a smaller scale than usual. She was, one could well see, in no happy frame of mind. There was none of the enthusiasm she had shown over the preparations for the Emperor’s Birthday. Then she was in gay good humor. She then evidently fully believed that things were going well for the State, that China would soon obtain her full rights in Manchuria again; then everything seemed brighter for the Nation’s outlook than now. It was her duty, however, to go through these Birthday celebrations, which, curtail as she would, must, nevertheless, be very elaborate, owing to her age as well as to her high rank. The Empress Dowager’s 197 wishes as to the adding of a new title were observed, and it was not conferred, but the preparations for the Birthday went on, on a magnificent scale. Presents came pouring into the Palace, and even more elaborate festive decorations than those used for the Emperor’s Birthday were being put in place.

The Emperor pleaded with Her Majesty “on bended knee” to let him celebrate her Birthday with the same lavishness as usual—to allow him to add another honorary title to the sixteen she already held—but although she took great pride in her titles, which the Ministers and Emperor had bestowed upon her over time, she was resolute on this matter, as adding a new title would require an annual payment of twelve thousand dollars in gold. She also insisted that everything should be on a smaller scale than usual. It was clear that she was not in a cheerful mood. There was none of the excitement she had shown while preparing for the Emperor’s Birthday. Back then, she was in a joyful spirit, fully convinced that things were going well for the State, that China would soon reclaim her full rights in Manchuria; at that time, the Nation's future seemed much brighter than it did now. However, it was her duty to participate in these Birthday celebrations, which, despite her attempts to reduce them, had to be quite elaborate due to her age and high rank. The Empress Dowager’s 197 wishes regarding the addition of a new title were respected, and it was not given, but the preparations for the Birthday continued on a grand scale. Gifts flooded into the Palace, and even more extravagant decorations than those used for the Emperor’s Birthday were being set up.

Her Majesty was to receive the prostrations of the Emperor and Empress,[6] Princesses, and members of the Imperial Family, on a Throne in the Palace, that was built half-way up the terraced hill crowned by the Temple of Ten Thousand Buddhas. She did not receive these prostrations in the Great Audience Hall: this was set aside, by tradition, for the Emperor, alone. Had she been reigning for him, she would have received them there, but as she was reigning with him, she received them in the other Palace. The elevation of this Palace permitted all who were allowed to enter the Precincts to offer their congratulations, to get a glimpse of Her Majesty. As the weather was getting cold, the marble steps leading up to this Palace, the courts, and even a large part of the terrace over the lake, were covered with carpets of gala red.

Her Majesty was set to receive the bows of the Emperor and Empress, [6] Princesses, and members of the Imperial Family, on a throne in the Palace, which was built halfway up the terraced hill topped by the Temple of Ten Thousand Buddhas. She did not receive these bows in the Great Audience Hall: this space was traditionally reserved for the Emperor alone. If she had been reigning solely for him, she would have taken her place there, but since she was reigning alongside him, she received them in the other Palace. The height of this Palace allowed everyone who was permitted to enter the grounds to offer their congratulations and catch a glimpse of Her Majesty. With the weather getting cold, the marble steps leading up to this Palace, the courtyards, and even a large portion of the terrace over the lake were covered with bright red carpets.

The congratulations and prostrations were to begin at 2 A.M., the hour of her birth. There were three pairs of huge silver candelabra standing at either side of the Throne to hold the enormous wax candles of Imperial yellow, entwined with golden dragons, which weighed fifty pounds each. They stood five feet high. Lanterns with the ever-present character “Sho” and others inscribed “Wan-Sho-Wu-Chiang” (no limit to Imperial longevity) stood on each step of the long flight leading up to the Palace. The whole terrace below, all the 198 temples and buildings in the grounds, were brilliantly illuminated with splendid lanterns, elaborately ornamented with tassels of red silk, with the characters for longevity emblazoned thereon in vermilion.

The congratulations and bowing were set to start at 2 A.M., the time of her birth. There were three pairs of large silver candelabra on either side of the Throne holding massive wax candles in Imperial yellow, decorated with golden dragons, each weighing fifty pounds. They reached five feet in height. Lanterns marked with the ever-present character “Sho” and others inscribed “Wan-Sho-Wu-Chiang” (no limit to Imperial longevity) stood on every step of the long flight leading up to the Palace. The entire terrace below, along with all the 198 temples and buildings on the grounds, was brilliantly lit with beautiful lanterns, intricately decorated with red silk tassels, featuring the characters for longevity in bright vermilion.

With the few changes necessitated by the different season of the year of the Empress Dowager’s Birthday, everything was carried out as for the Emperor’s except on a larger scale, as she was celebrating more years than His Majesty. The Palace was filled to overflowing with the many ladies invited to be present. Some came from the heart of distant Manchuria, the cradle of the Dynasty. The winter Court dress of the ladies, worn for Her Majesty’s Birthday, was of satin, lined and trimmed with fur, with sable collars. Like the summer Court dress, the winter gown was elaborately embroidered in the golden double dragon. The picturesque summer coiffure had also been replaced by winter hats of fur with jewels across the front and an elaborate crown, studded with precious stones. Brilliant bunches of flowers were worn on either side of the coiffure, in winter as in summer.

With a few adjustments needed for the different season of the Empress Dowager’s Birthday, everything was done just like for the Emperor’s celebration, but on a larger scale since she was marking more years than His Majesty. The Palace was overflowing with the many ladies invited to attend. Some came from the heart of far-off Manchuria, the birthplace of the Dynasty. The winter Court dresses worn by the ladies for Her Majesty’s Birthday were made of satin, lined and trimmed with fur, featuring sable collars. Just like the summer Court dress, the winter gowns were richly embroidered with the golden double dragon. The lovely summer hairstyles were swapped out for winter fur hats adorned with jewels across the front and a detailed crown studded with precious stones. Vibrant bunches of flowers were worn on either side of the hairstyle, both in winter and summer.

The celebration of birthday festivities in China is always accompanied by rites and worship of the ancestral tablets, and Her Majesty was obliged to go into Peking several times during the celebration. The ceremonies, themselves, were also very tiring. All this effort to keep up, and to properly carry out her part of the ceremonies, added to her real anxiety, made the forced celebration of her sixty-ninth Birthday far from a happy event to the Empress Dowager of China, who found the Empire she was trying to guide, in so perilous a position—war threatening on its confines, 199 foreign complications of all kinds to deal with, and rebellion within.

The celebration of birthdays in China always involves rituals and honoring ancestral tablets, and the Empress had to go to Peking several times during the festivities. The ceremonies themselves were quite exhausting. All this pressure to keep up and fulfill her role in the ceremonies, combined with her genuine anxiety, turned the forced celebration of her sixty-ninth birthday into a stressful occasion for the Empress Dowager of China, who faced an Empire in a precarious situation—war looming at the borders, various foreign issues to manage, and internal rebellion. 199

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CHAPTER XXIV Winter Palace

The Summer Palace was always the Empress Dowager’s favorite Palace, but after the Boxer rising and the subsequent occupation of Peking by the Allies, when foreign troops were stationed in both the Peking Palaces, and so much damage done them, she would have preferred to have lived the whole year round at the Summer Palace. As it is, she occupies it from eight to nine months of the year, going out to it at the first opportunity in the spring, and leaving it only when it is so cold as to make it impracticable. There is a system of heating it by furnaces beneath the floors, but Her Majesty never used these, and the small Chinese porcelain stoves, sorts of braziers, were quite insufficient for heating the immense halls. This, however, would not have influenced her, as she never minded the cold, but it was very difficult for the officials to take the long trip to the Summer Palace during the winter, and this consideration alone caused her to move into the Winter Palace when the weather became very cold. The members of the Cabinet and the Princes had summer homes in the immediate vicinity of the Palace, but there were thousands of officials who were obliged to come out every day from Peking.

The Summer Palace was always the Empress Dowager’s favorite, but after the Boxer Rebellion and the occupation of Peking by the Allies, when foreign troops were stationed in both Peking Palaces and caused so much damage, she would have preferred to live at the Summer Palace year-round. As it is, she spends about eight to nine months there, going to it as soon as spring begins and leaving only when it gets too cold to stay. There’s a system of heating using furnaces under the floors, but Her Majesty never used these, and the small Chinese porcelain stoves, like braziers, were not enough to heat the huge halls. This, however, didn’t bother her, as she didn’t mind the cold, but it was tough for the officials to make the long trip to the Summer Palace in winter, and that alone made her move to the Winter Palace when the weather became frigid. The Cabinet members and the Princes had summer homes nearby, but there were thousands of officials who had to come out from Peking every day.

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The time had now come for the Court to move in definitively to the Winter Palace, and shortly after the Birthday festivities, Their Majesties took up their residence in the Capital. Before I left the Summer Palace, the young Empress suggested that I should go to the Winter Palace the next day in time to assist in receiving Her Majesty on her arrival there, for, as usual, I left the Summer Palace the day before the Court, and went in to the United States Legation. At every change of residence of the Empress Dowager, the young Empress, Princesses, and Ladies of the Court precede her by a few hours, and stand upon the threshold of her own dwelling Palace to receive her when she arrives. Full Court dress is worn for this reception, and it is, as is everything touching Her Majesty, a ceremony!

The time had finally come for the Court to officially move into the Winter Palace, and shortly after the Birthday celebrations, Their Majesties settled into the Capital. Before I left the Summer Palace, the young Empress suggested that I should go to the Winter Palace the next day to help welcome Her Majesty when she arrived there. As usual, I left the Summer Palace the day before the Court and went to the United States Legation. Each time the Empress Dowager changes residences, the young Empress, Princesses, and Ladies of the Court arrive a few hours earlier and stand at the entrance of her Palace to greet her upon her arrival. Full Court dress is required for this reception, and, like everything related to Her Majesty, it's quite a ceremony!

The day of the Empress Dowager’s entrance into her loyal City of Peking for the winter, in December, 1903, was a typical Peking winter day; the air was crisp and clear, the atmosphere positively sparkling, and like champagne. One seemed to breathe an elixir. For her “progresses” from one Palace to another the Empress Dowager always had, what they call in England, “Queen’s weather.”

The day the Empress Dowager entered her loyal city of Peking for the winter in December 1903 was a typical Peking winter day; the air was crisp and clear, the atmosphere positively sparkling, like champagne. It felt like breathing in an elixir. For her "progresses" from one palace to another, the Empress Dowager always enjoyed what they call in England, "Queen's weather."

The City of Peking is composed of three walled towns—the Chinese, the Tartar, and the Imperial City. Within the Imperial City lies the Winter Palace, its battlemented, turreted walls surrounded by a moat. After passing through one of the great gates, in the wall surrounding the Imperial City, and crossing the stone bridge that spans “the Grain-bearing Canal,” we soon came in sight of the splendid walls and lofty 202 gates of the Palace inclosure. The red outer walls of the Palace, faded by Time and weather to a charming gray-pink, with their beautiful corner constructions of airy-looking turrets reflected in the still waters of the moat beneath, were most picturesque. We were carried along the raised road beyond the moat until we came to a marble bridge (formerly a portcullis), that leads into the gate of the Palace in front of the Manchu Banner quarters, at the foot of the Coal Hill. Our chairs, by special arrangement, were allowed to enter the inclosure proper, of the Winter Palace; but even after entering the exterior gates, one winds in and out between high walls, through massive gates and heavy wooden doors studded with huge iron nails and ornamental copper balls. Against the high wall on either side of this approach, wooden sheds were built as sleeping-places for the guards and soldiers. Each shed had a front of lattice-work, with paper pasted over the interstices. Within was a cemented platform, which the Northern Chinese use as beds. These have a place underneath for building a fire, for they keep warm at night by sleeping on hot beds and use very little cover.

The City of Beijing consists of three walled areas—the Chinese town, the Tartar town, and the Imperial City. Inside the Imperial City is the Winter Palace, its turreted walls surrounded by a moat. After going through one of the main gates in the wall around the Imperial City and crossing the stone bridge over the “Grain-bearing Canal,” we quickly saw the impressive walls and tall gates of the Palace grounds. The red outer walls of the Palace, weathered over time to a charming gray-pink, with their lovely corner structures topped by airy turrets reflecting in the still waters of the moat below, were stunning. We were taken along the elevated path beyond the moat until we reached a marble bridge (formerly with a portcullis) that leads into the Palace gate in front of the Manchu Banner quarters at the foot of Coal Hill. Our chairs, arranged specially, were allowed to enter the main area of the Winter Palace; but even after passing through the outer gates, you weave in and out between tall walls, through massive gates and heavy wooden doors studded with large iron nails and decorative copper balls. Along the high wall on either side of this path, wooden sheds were built as sleeping quarters for the guards and soldiers. Each shed had a lattice front, with paper pasted over the gaps. Inside was a cement platform, which Northern Chinese use as beds. These have a space underneath for making a fire, since they keep warm at night by sleeping on heated beds and use very little bedding.

Just beyond the last of these guard-houses, our official “green chairs” were put down between two high walls, with forbidding gates in front of us. Here we took the red Palace chairs which were awaiting us. We were swiftly carried through still other gates and past a very labyrinth of walls. The courts were all paved in large flagstones of white marble, and surrounded by high walls with heavy doors. We finally reached a charming court, where, standing under 203 the overhanging branches of a beautiful cedar, we found the young Empress and Princesses, in full Court dress, already awaiting the coming of Her Majesty. It was a pretty group that stood there, gowned in their splendid Court costumes, the sunlight glinting upon the jeweled crowns of their fur caps, and giving a touch of nature to the brilliant flowers in their hair. My plain, foreign, tailor-made gown was the only dark spot in this bright group of gorgeously attired ladies.

Just past the last of these guardhouses, our official “green chairs” were set down between two tall walls, with intimidating gates in front of us. Here, we took the red Palace chairs that were waiting for us. We were quickly ushered through more gates and past a maze of walls. The courtyards were all paved with large white marble flagstones and surrounded by high walls with heavy doors. We finally arrived at a lovely courtyard, where, standing under the overhanging branches of a beautiful cedar, we found the young Empress and Princesses, all in full Court dress, already waiting for Her Majesty’s arrival. It was a lovely scene with them dressed in their magnificent Court outfits, the sunlight shining on the jeweled crowns of their fur caps, adding a touch of nature to the brilliant flowers in their hair. My plain, foreign, tailor-made dress was the only dark spot in this bright gathering of elegantly dressed women.

Presently the cymbals and flutes sounded the weird notes of the “Imperial Hymn.” The great wooden doors of the court were thrown open and the Imperial procession came in sight. Splendidly gowned eunuchs advanced in two lines, walking with rigid bodies and stately step. At a sign from the young Empress, a hush fell upon the chattering group of Princesses and each took her proper place. Then the Imperial chair-bearers crossed the threshold, with Her Majesty sitting erect in one of her “open chairs,” for as soon as she gets into the Palace grounds she leaves the closed palanquin, in which she is obliged to travel abroad and which she very much dislikes on account of its stuffiness. The Ladies, as if moved by one impulse, made the formal bow at her approach, and repeated the usual Imperial salutation “Lao-tzu-tzung-chee-siang,” which I repeated with the others. Her Majesty had her chair stopped in the center of the Court and got out, and I went up to salute her. She shook hands, and said she hoped I would be happy in the Winter Palace, but that it was a dull, depressing sort of a place, with too many walls and gates, after the 204 open brightness, of the Summer Palace. After a few minutes’ conversation she went into the Throne-room, followed by the Empress and Ladies.

Right now, the cymbals and flutes played the strange notes of the "Imperial Hymn." The large wooden doors of the courtyard swung open, and the Imperial procession came into view. Elegantly dressed eunuchs moved forward in two lines, walking with stiff bodies and a dignified pace. At a signal from the young Empress, a silence fell over the chatty group of Princesses, and each took her designated spot. Then the Imperial chair carriers entered, with Her Majesty sitting upright in one of her "open chairs," because as soon as she arrives in the Palace grounds, she leaves the enclosed palanquin she dislikes due to its stuffiness. The Ladies, seemingly acting in unison, performed a formal bow as she approached and repeated the customary Imperial greeting, "Lao-tzu-tzung-chee-siang," which I echoed along with them. Her Majesty had her chair stopped in the center of the Court and got out, and I went over to greet her. She shook my hand and said she hoped I would be happy in the Winter Palace, but that it was a dull, depressing kind of place, with too many walls and gates, compared to the open brightness of the Summer Palace. After a few minutes of conversation, she headed into the Throne-room, followed by the Empress and Ladies. 204

Her Majesty’s Throne-room at the Winter Palace fronted on a court which was surrounded by well-built walls with curiously shaped doors and windows and ornamental yellow and green tiled designs at intervals. In the center of the wall in front was the immense gateway, with wooden folding-doors, which had just opened for her passage. The verandah of the Throne-room had two rooms projecting upon it, making of it a rectangular space with walls around three of its sides. This verandah was quite different from any at the Summer Palace, where they run the whole length of the buildings, back and front.

Her Majesty’s Throne Room at the Winter Palace faced a courtyard surrounded by sturdy walls with uniquely shaped doors and windows, decorated with colorful yellow and green tiled patterns at intervals. In the center of the front wall was the huge gateway, featuring wooden folding doors that had just swung open for her to enter. The verandah of the Throne Room had two rooms extending out from it, creating a rectangular space with walls on three sides. This verandah was quite different from those at the Summer Palace, where they stretch along the entire length of the buildings, both front and back.

Entering, I was struck by the beauty of the great central hall—the harmony of its proportions, the somber splendor of its color. It seemed to me the most satisfying, the most picturesque of all the restful, harmonious Chinese interiors I had seen. Its dull red walls, splendid coffered ceiling glowing in color and glinting in gold, its central dome, with elaborately carved pendentives, was painted in brilliant primary colors, subdued into a rich harmony by the demi-obscurity, for it had no “lantern” and received its light from the windows below.

Entering, I was captivated by the beauty of the spacious central hall—the balance of its proportions, the rich elegance of its colors. It felt like the most satisfying and picturesque of all the calm, harmonious Chinese interiors I had seen. Its muted red walls, magnificent coffered ceiling glowing with color and shimmering in gold, and its central dome, adorned with intricately carved pendentives, were painted in vibrant primary colors, softened into a rich harmony by the dim light, since it didn’t have a "lantern" and got its light from the windows below.

COURT IN THE WINTER PALACE—“HER MAJESTY COMES”

COURT IN THE WINTER PALACE—“THE QUEEN IS HERE”

The curious feature of the domes in several of the palaces in the Violet City, so effective from within, giving elevation and space to the interiors, is that they are not visible from the outside of the edifice. The beautiful straight line of the roof, with its upturned 205 corners, remains intact in its purity and retains its restful simplicity.

The interesting thing about the domes in some of the palaces in the Violet City is that, while they create a sense of height and openness inside, they can’t be seen from the outside of the building. The beautiful straight line of the roof, with its upward-turned corners, stays perfectly intact and keeps its calming simplicity. 205

The hall was paved with great blocks of highly polished black marble, which dimly reflected the glowing splendor of the walls and ceiling. In the center of one side was a low dais, richly carpeted, on which stood a great antique throne and footstool of red lacquer, framed in ebony and inlaid with cloisonné—the three-leaved screen behind was of bronze, with landscapes in low relief. On each leaf a poem in golden characters gave the needed touch of brilliancy to the somber massiveness of the dull bronze.

The hall had large blocks of shiny black marble flooring that softly reflected the warm glow of the walls and ceiling. In the center of one side was a low platform, covered with a rich carpet, where a magnificent antique throne and footstool made of red lacquer stood, framed in ebony and decorated with cloisonné. Behind it was a three-paneled screen made of bronze, featuring landscapes in low relief. Each panel had a poem in golden letters that added a bright contrast to the heavy, dull bronze.

Great wooden doors, with huge gilded dragons in high relief, opened into apartments on the right and left of this splendid hall. These portals were always thrown wide, and heavily padded satin portières hung from the lintels. The front and rear of the hall was almost entirely of glass, with the pillars that supported the roof standing clear between the windows—the lower half of plate-glass, the upper, of transparent Corean paper.

Great wooden doors with massive gilded dragons in high relief opened into rooms on the right and left of this stunning hall. These doors were always wide open, and thick satin drapes hung from the frames. The front and back of the hall were almost entirely made of glass, with the pillars supporting the roof standing clear between the windows—the lower half made of plate glass and the upper half of transparent Korean paper.

The apartments to the right, where, at a sign from Her Majesty, I followed the Ladies, were her day-rooms. Her sitting-room, projecting on the verandah, brilliantly lighted by two sides of windows, was in dazzling contrast to the somber splendor of the Throne-room. The sun pouring through the windows, the gay flowers and growing plants, the fruits piled high in great painted bowls, the divans, beneath the windows, with satin cushions, the touches of femininity, the subtle perfume, even the small shrine to Buddha—everything bespoke the characteristics of 206 its august mistress, who, in her hours of ease, loved sunshine and flowers, and reveled in beauty and perfume.

The apartments to the right, where I followed the Ladies at a signal from Her Majesty, were her daytime rooms. Her sitting room, extending onto the verandah and brightly lit by windows on two sides, stood in striking contrast to the dark grandeur of the Throne room. The sunlight streaming through the windows, vibrant flowers and plants, fruits stacked high in decorative bowls, and the divans under the windows with satin cushions all reflected her feminine touch. The air was filled with a subtle perfume, and even a small shrine to Buddha was present—everything spoke to the traits of 206 its royal owner, who, during her leisure hours, delighted in sunshine and flowers and embraced beauty and fragrance.

On entering, Her Majesty approached the small shrine, lighted three slender tapers of fragrant incense, and placed them upright in the perfumed ashes of the golden censer at the feet of Buddha. She rearranged the offerings, placed a picture of the Mother of Buddha behind the Image, and then stood in reverent attitude a few seconds before turning to her waiting tirewomen to have her outer garments removed.

Upon entering, Her Majesty walked over to the small shrine, lit three slender sticks of fragrant incense, and set them upright in the scented ashes of the golden censer at Buddha's feet. She adjusted the offerings, positioned a picture of Buddha's Mother behind the statue, and then stood in a respectful pose for a few seconds before turning to her waiting attendants to have her outer garments taken off.

As I had now learned that my interest in her surroundings pleased her, I looked around the room. It was as lofty as the Great Throne-room, but the rear wall was divided into two stories, and a hidden stairway led to the upper rooms. In an alcove, under the second floor, was built the bed where she took her siesta in the afternoon, screened from the sitting-room by beautifully embroidered satin curtains. The walls of carved teakwood had a rare frieze of panels of flying birds and bats in mother-of-pearl. There were scrolls bearing quotations from the classics; and, of course, many beautiful and curious clocks adorned the dragon tables, the window-seats, and carved chests!

As I had now learned that my interest in her surroundings made her happy, I looked around the room. It was as tall as the Great Throne Room, but the back wall was split into two levels, and a hidden staircase led to the upper rooms. In a nook under the second floor was the bed where she took her afternoon nap, separated from the sitting room by beautifully embroidered satin curtains. The walls, made of carved teakwood, featured a unique frieze of panels depicting flying birds and bats in mother-of-pearl. There were scrolls with quotes from the classics, and of course, many beautiful and interesting clocks decorated the dragon tables, window seats, and carved chests!

In prominent places, each flanked by good-luck pennants, hung two steel-engravings: the first representing Queen Victoria in regal array; the second, the Queen and Prince Consort, surrounded by their children and grandchildren. I was surprised to see them here in Her Majesty’s living-room, though I had heard 207 that the Empress Dowager had a great admiration for the Queen, and that she thought there were many points of similarity in their reigns. They had each been widows the greater part of their lives, and had each ruled over great empires. She said she noticed in the Queen’s face the same lines of longevity that she, herself, had. She probably dreams of as long a life as the great Queen of England had.

In prominent spots, each surrounded by good-luck banners, hung two steel engravings: the first depicting Queen Victoria in her royal attire; the second, the Queen and Prince Consort, surrounded by their children and grandchildren. I was surprised to see them in Her Majesty’s living room, even though I had heard 207 that the Empress Dowager admired the Queen greatly and believed there were many similarities in their reigns. They had both been widows for most of their lives and had ruled over vast empires. She mentioned noticing the same signs of longevity in the Queen’s face that she saw in her own. She probably dreams of living as long as the great Queen of England did.

The Empress Dowager was astonished that I had seen so many members of the English Royal family, and the Queen herself, when I had never had an “Audience,” and was still more so when she learned that the Great English Empress took her daily promenade outside her Palace Walls in “an open chair,” and could be seen by any one who happened to pass that way.

The Empress Dowager was shocked that I had seen so many members of the English Royal family and the Queen herself, especially since I had never had an "Audience." She was even more surprised to hear that the Great English Empress took her daily stroll outside her Palace Walls in "an open chair," making her visible to anyone who happened to walk by.

Her Majesty told me I might go up the hidden stairway, leading from her bed-alcove to the floor above, where was her private chapel. Here, on special occasions, services were held by lama priests. It was a beautiful haven, in whose dim, religious light one might meditate or pray.

Her Majesty told me I could go up the hidden staircase, which led from her bed nook to the floor above, where her private chapel was located. Special services were held there by lama priests on certain occasions. It was a beautiful sanctuary, where one could meditate or pray in its soft, spiritual light.

Its high altar, with a great golden Buddha of fine design, had tall, golden candlesticks, shining with pearls and rubies. Richly wrought and enameled vases held bouquets of jeweled flowers, and censers, damascened with gold, sent up spirals of perfumed smoke. The floor was covered with a splendid silken rug of Imperial yellow, and small, exquisitely executed, paintings of the saints and personified attributes formed a dado around the walls.

Its high altar, featuring a stunning golden Buddha, was adorned with tall golden candlesticks sparkling with pearls and rubies. Ornately designed vases held arrangements of jeweled flowers, and incense burners, inlaid with gold, released swirling clouds of fragrant smoke. The floor was covered with a magnificent silk rug in Imperial yellow, and small, beautifully crafted paintings of saints and symbolic attributes created a decorative border around the walls.

Curiously shaped windows, with bits of translucent 208 shell set into the elaborate lattice-work, shed but a dim light, and out of mysterious depths shone the splendid jewels of the altar ornaments, the dull gold of the Great Buddha, and the gleaming dado of red-and-gold clothed saints! This was Her Majesty’s favorite chapel. She had followed me up and showed it with pride. She appreciated its perfect artistic quality as much, I am sure, as she loved its religious element.

Curiously shaped windows, with pieces of translucent 208 shell embedded in the intricate lattice-work, let in only a faint light, and from mysterious depths sparkled the beautiful jewels of the altar decorations, the dull gold of the Great Buddha, and the shining friezes of the red-and-gold clad saints! This was Her Majesty’s favorite chapel. She had come with me to show it off proudly. I’m sure she valued its perfect artistic quality as much as she cherished its spiritual significance.

Here she could come, from the privacy of her bed-alcove, mount the hidden stairs when she willed, unnoticed and unattended, and here seek that peace which seemed so far away those troubled days of January, 1904, when all looked so dark for her country.

Here she could come, from the privacy of her bed alcove, climb the hidden stairs whenever she wanted, unnoticed and unattended, and here find that peace that felt so distant during those troubled days of January 1904, when everything seemed so bleak for her country.

Her Majesty’s Throne-room is in the first of three large halls in the northeastern corner of the inclosure, which, with their courts, extend to the exterior walls of the Palace. The buildings are raised about eight feet above the marble-paved court and are approached by handsome, white marble steps. Leading up to the second, for the first time I saw a “spirit-stairway” used in secular architecture. This “spirit-stairway” consists of a block of marble placed in the center and reaching from the top to the bottom of the stairway. This block, instead of being cut into steps, is elaborately carved with the double dragon. It lies in the middle of the stairway like a beautiful heavy carpet thrown over it, too stiff to take the form of steps. The “spirit-stairway,” not to be touched by mortal feet, is used in the approaches to all the fine temples; and when, as in the case of the Temple of Heaven at Peking, the stairs are high, the effect is as beautiful as it is original and unique.

The Throne Room is located in the first of three large halls in the northeastern corner of the complex, which, along with their courtyards, extends to the outer walls of the Palace. The buildings rise about eight feet above the marble-paved courtyard and are accessed by beautiful white marble steps. Leading up to the second hall, I encountered a “spirit stairway” for the first time in a non-religious setting. This “spirit stairway” features a block of marble in the center that runs from the top to the bottom of the stairs. Instead of being cut into steps, this block is intricately carved with a double dragon design. It rests in the middle of the stairway like a stunning heavy carpet laid over it, too rigid to form steps. The “spirit stairway,” meant to remain untouched by human feet, is used in the approaches to all the grand temples; and when the stairs are high, like in the case of the Temple of Heaven in Beijing, the effect is as beautiful as it is original and unique.

CONFUCIAN TEMPLE—SPIRIT-STAIRWAY IN CENTRAL FLIGHT OF STEPS

CONFUCIAN TEMPLE—SPIRIT STAIRWAY IN THE CENTER FLIGHT OF STEPS

209 The hall with the “spirit-stairway” is the handsomest of the three in the Empress Dowager’s inclosure. Its interior, a height of fifty feet, has a splendid coffered ceiling, and its walls are of wonderfully carved wood, with cloisonné medallions, which give great richness and splendor. A balcony surrounds this lofty hall, with openings from it into rooms over the side apartments, which are of but the usual height. This great front hall, with a dais and throne, screen and ceremonial fans, showed it was for more formal receptions than the beautiful domed room we had first entered. Opposite the Throne dais stood a “cistern” of splendidly carved jade to hold water for cooling the temperature in summer. A handsome music-box, which had been sent as a present to the Dowager Empress by Queen Victoria, and several other presents from European Royalties, stood around. The apartments on the right were for His Majesty’s use when he came to the Theater, which was near. On the left were Her Majesty’s night apartments. Two doors led through the open-work screen which separated the hall from the entrance at the rear. Here there was another magnificent block of jade, about five feet high, elaborately carved in designs representing the manner in which the jade is mined and taken from its native mountains.

209 The hall with the "spirit-stairway" is the most beautiful of the three in the Empress Dowager’s area. Its interior is fifty feet high, featuring a stunning coffered ceiling, and the walls are made of intricately carved wood, adorned with cloisonné medallions that add great richness and splendor. A balcony wraps around this tall hall, providing openings into rooms above the side areas, which are of standard height. This grand front hall, with a dais and throne, screens, and ceremonial fans, indicated that it was meant for more formal receptions than the lovely domed room we had first entered. Opposite the throne dais was a splendidly carved jade “cistern” designed to hold water for cooling during the summer. A beautiful music box, sent as a gift to the Dowager Empress by Queen Victoria, along with several other gifts from European royals, was placed around the room. The apartments on the right were for His Majesty’s use when he came to the nearby Theater. To the left were Her Majesty’s night quarters. Two doors led through the open-work screen that separated the hall from the entrance at the back. Here, there was another magnificent piece of jade, about five feet high, intricately carved with designs depicting how the jade is mined and taken from its native mountains.

From the central hall, a raised marble platform led into the third of the buildings. Here, again, the central hall occupied the entire height, while the sides were divided into two stories. This was one of the Emperor’s Throne-rooms, and he had graciously given it for my use while painting the Empress Dowager’s portraits. 210 I had been told I was to have a “magnificent place for working” in the Winter Palace, and so far as magnificence went, I had it here. But, lofty and spacious as the hall was, it was very dark, and there was also a disagreeable reflection from the shining, yellow-tiled roof of the Palace in front. The court was very small, and the reflection from the roof was consequently unavoidable. My heart fell. It was a dreadful disappointment to find that my “studio,” to which I had so looked forward, was so unsatisfactory as to light!

From the central hall, a raised marble platform led into the third building. Again, the central hall took up the full height, while the sides were split into two stories. This was one of the Emperor’s Throne rooms, and he had kindly offered it for my use while painting the Empress Dowager’s portraits. 210 I had heard I would have a “magnificent place for working” in the Winter Palace, and as far as magnificence goes, I had it here. But, as grand and spacious as the hall was, it was very dark, and there was an unpleasant reflection from the shiny yellow-tiled roof of the Palace in front. The courtyard was quite small, making the reflection from the roof unavoidable. My heart sank. It was a terrible disappointment to realize that my “studio,” which I had looked forward to so much, was so lacking in light!

The Empress Dowager’s quarters at the Winter Palace are separated by high walls and guarded gates from the Emperor’s. The pavilions of the Emperor’s inclosure are on a more magnificent scale even than those of the Empress Dowager. The Audience Hall of the Winter Palace is in the Emperor’s inclosure. In Her Majesty’s inclosure, there is a Theater, but the Imperial “loge” is small, indeed, when compared with the splendid hall at the Summer Palace. Tradition seemed to be more rigidly observed here than at the Summer Palace, and everything seemed to be referred to the Emperor; whereas Her Majesty seemed to be the first figure at the Summer Palace, and there, traditional laws were often in abeyance.

The Empress Dowager’s living quarters at the Winter Palace are separated by tall walls and secure gates from the Emperor’s. The pavilions within the Emperor’s area are even more impressive than those of the Empress Dowager. The Audience Hall of the Winter Palace is located in the Emperor’s section. In Her Majesty’s area, there is a Theater, but the Imperial box is quite small compared to the grand hall at the Summer Palace. Tradition appeared to be followed more strictly here than at the Summer Palace, and everything seemed to revolve around the Emperor; while in the Summer Palace, Her Majesty seemed to take center stage, and there, traditional rules were often set aside.

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CHAPTER XXV BEIJING—STARTING THE PORTRAIT FOR ST. LOUIS

The Legation quarter of Peking lies in the Tartar City, just under the walls of the Imperial City. The United States Legation, in 1904, occupied a Chinese Temple on the canal, at the left of the “Water Gate,” the opening of which was exacted by the Allies in 1900. Before this time, there was no gate between the Chien-Mên and the Hata-Mên.

The Legation quarter of Beijing is located in the Tartar City, right next to the walls of the Imperial City. In 1904, the United States Legation was based in a Chinese Temple by the canal, to the left of the “Water Gate,” which was taken over by the Allies in 1900. Prior to this, there was no gate between the Chien-Mên and the Hata-Mên.

It was a picturesque jaunt in the early morning that I had from the United States Legation to the Palace. My cart rattled down the road, running parallel to the canal, past the splendid inclosure of the English Legation to the “Glacis,” and across the Marble Bridge, that traverses it, to the narrow street under the great red walls of the Imperial City. The walls all over China are wonderful feats of architecture, the culminating point of the science of the Chinese builder. The “Great Wall,” long counted one of the wonders of the world, is one of many in China, and only remarkable on account of its size and great length. Nearly every town and city in China has massive, well-constructed walls, which, with their splendid gate-towers, make them really remarkable works of architecture. Even the palaces and parks of the rich have fine walls, 212 the monotony of their line varied by the turreted summer-houses which surmount their angles. These walls, quite overtopping the cities and houses they inclose, with their watch-towers permitting their defenders to see at great distances, must, in medieval times, have been a splendid protection against the attacks of enemies or the inroads of barbarians.

It was a beautiful morning walk I took from the U.S. Legation to the Palace. My cart rattled down the road next to the canal, passing the impressive grounds of the English Legation to the “Glacis,” and across the Marble Bridge that crosses it, into the narrow street beneath the huge red walls of the Imperial City. The walls throughout China are amazing architectural achievements, representing the pinnacle of Chinese building skills. The “Great Wall,” often regarded as one of the wonders of the world, is just one of many in China, notable mainly for its size and length. Almost every town and city in China features massive, well-built walls, which, along with their impressive gate towers, make them truly remarkable architectural feats. Even the palaces and gardens of the wealthy have sturdy walls, 212 their continuous lines broken up by turreted summer houses that sit on their corners. These walls, towering over the cities and homes they enclose, with their watchtowers allowing defenders to see far away, must have provided excellent protection against enemy attacks or invasions by barbarians in medieval times.

The main thoroughfares of the Tartar City are very wide, with a raised causeway, about two feet high, in the center. When Their Majesties go abroad, this is covered with yellow sand and is used as an Imperial roadway. Ordinarily any cart or chair, irrespective of the rank of the occupant, may use it. It is always kept in excellent condition, and seems to be a survival of the raised roads that Marco Polo speaks of in describing the grounds of the Palace of Kublai-Kahn. The lower roads on either side of this raised causeway are generally in a lamentable state. Itinerant cooks ply their odorous trade of frying grease-balls, etc.; barbers shave their clients and act as manicures and chiropodists, in full view of the passer-by; venders of old iron, clothes, vegetables, etc, spread out their wares in the middle of the road, in reckless disregard of the wandering fowls, dogs, and even pigs, which roam about. Pools of stagnant water and piles of refuse add their quota to the malodorous confusion. Still the streets are not unpicturesque. The elaborately carved fronts of the shops, the graceful signs, with their red pennants, the gaily colored lanterns swinging to and fro, the great umbrellas unfurled here and there over the itinerant venders, all have a certain sort of charm.

The main streets of Tartar City are quite wide, featuring a raised walkway about two feet high in the center. When the royal family goes out, this area is covered with yellow sand and serves as an Imperial route. Normally, any cart or chair, regardless of who's using it, can access it. It's always kept in great shape and seems to be a remnant of the elevated roads that Marco Polo mentioned while describing the grounds of Kublai Khan’s Palace. The lower roads on each side of this raised causeway are usually in poor condition. Street cooks sell their greasy fried treats; barbers shave clients and do manicures and pedicures right in front of passersby; vendors selling scrap metal, clothes, vegetables, and more set up their goods right in the middle of the road, carelessly ignoring the wandering chickens, dogs, and even pigs that roam around. Puddles of stagnant water and piles of trash contribute to the unpleasant smell. Still, the streets aren't without their charm. The intricately carved shop fronts, the elegant signs with their red banners, the brightly colored lanterns swaying back and forth, and the large umbrellas opened up here and there over the street vendors all add a unique charm to the scene.

213 After entering the gate of the Imperial City, the roads are gay with carts, official chairs, and handsomely caparisoned horses. We sometimes met attachés of the “Wai-Wu-Pu” and different Yamens hurrying to and fro with despatches, or caught a glimpse, in the depths of his green chair, of one of the great ministers, the thin white-bearded face of Prince Ching, or the heavy Jewish-looking physiognomy of Na-Tung, the new minister, who seems likely to grow in favor. Sometimes we passed a bridal procession, with its gay, red-embroidered chairs, or some splendid funeral, with the great red catafalque, covered with magnificent embroideries (for red is used alike for wedding chairs and for funeral decorations)—its massive, long poles held by hundreds of red-gowned bearers and accompanied by the motley crew of figurants, who are always hired for funeral celebrations in China; the catafalque, followed by white-covered carts, carrying the mourning white-garbed women of the family. Sometimes we passed a crowd of yellow-gowned lama priests and monks returning from some celebration in the Palace—sometimes, great droves of camels laden with coal from the mountains or produce from afar. During the annual visit of the Mongolian Princes to Peking we met them with their fur-dressed and leather-booted followers, their quaintly caparisoned horses, and splendidly bedecked camels, for they were domiciled in Palaces, within the Imperial City.

213 After entering the gate of the Imperial City, the streets are lively with carts, official chairs, and elegantly adorned horses. We sometimes encountered attachés of the “Wai-Wu-Pu” and various Yamens rushing around with messages, or caught a glimpse of one of the high-ranking ministers in his green chair, like the thin, white-bearded face of Prince Ching, or the stout, Jewish-looking features of Na-Tung, the new minister who seems to be gaining favor. Occasionally, we would see a bridal procession with its vibrant, red-embroidered chairs, or an elaborate funeral, featuring a grand red catafalque draped in exquisite embroideries (since red is used for both wedding chairs and funeral decorations)—its large, long poles carried by hundreds of bearers in red gowns and accompanied by a colorful group of figurants, always hired for funeral ceremonies in China; the catafalque was followed by white-covered carts transporting the mourning women dressed in white from the family. Sometimes we passed a crowd of yellow-robed lama priests and monks returning from a celebration in the Palace—other times, large groups of camels carrying coal from the mountains or goods from distant places. During the annual visit of the Mongolian Princes to Peking, we encountered them with their fur-clad and leather-booted attendants, their uniquely adorned horses, and beautifully decorated camels, as they were housed in Palaces within the Imperial City.

All this we could see as we went on our way to the Great Gate of the Palace, itself. Within the walls and at the gate of the Empress Dowager’s Palace, with 214 the usual Chinese tolerance, the consideration of the great for the poor, beggars are allowed to come at certain times each day, to receive remnants from the Imperial kitchen. The poor are also permitted to examine the garbage of the Palace, before it is carted away. There was always a motley crew of ragged beggars around this gate, who received, apparently, kind consideration from the soldiers and guards. At least, they were allowed to ply their trade and to follow their avocations in peace.

We could see all of this as we made our way to the Great Gate of the Palace itself. Inside the walls and at the gate of the Empress Dowager’s Palace, with 214 the usual Chinese tolerance and the kindness of the wealthy towards the poor, beggars are allowed to come at certain times each day to collect leftovers from the Imperial kitchen. The poor are also allowed to sift through the Palace's garbage before it is taken away. There was always a colorful group of ragged beggars around this gate, who seemed to receive consideration from the soldiers and guards. At the very least, they were allowed to carry out their activities and follow their occupations in peace.

I found the light, in the magnificent hall which had now become my studio, so obscure, even in front of the great plate-glass doors, that it was almost useless to attempt to work. After trying to do so for two or three days, I told the head eunuch it was impossible. I did not wish to trouble Her Majesty with my annoyances, for she had enough of her own cares, and seemed to grow daily more and more anxious and depressed over the constantly growing rumors of war in Manchuria; but it was impossible to work longer where I was, and I decided I would have one of the ends of the hall, which projected beyond the overhanging eaves of the verandah, fitted up for my work, and in order to have sufficient light, even here, it was necessary to have the upper paper windows replaced by plate-glass. The eunuchs demurred. They said this would necessitate great changes, with heavy expense, besides establishing a precedent, as no other part of the Palace had plate-glass windows at the top! The next time the Empress Dowager came in, I told her it was impossible to work as it was. She, herself, remarked how dark it was, and noticed the reflection 215 from the yellow roof opposite. And when she heard what I wished, she ordered it to be done at once, saying she would “speak to the Emperor” about it. An order of Her Majesty’s was always promptly carried out, and two days after, to my astonishment, the plate-glass windows were placed as I wished. I had the divan that was built under the windows removed, and all the furniture taken out of this end of the hall. The eunuchs hesitated about removing an immense elephant clock of wonderful mechanism, as it had not been moved for a hundred and fifty years, but I finally accomplished even this! Even without the furniture, this end of the hall was but a small space in which to work; but I had a fairly good light, and a quiet place to paint in, for the first time since I began painting the Empress Dowager. Here I was sufficiently far away from Her Majesty’s apartments, as well as from those of the Princesses and Ladies, to be able to work in quiet, without interruptions. A set of European furniture had been placed in the great hall, when it was decided to give it to me, and though this did not please me, in an artistic sense, it being absolutely out of keeping with its environment, I found the well-cushioned easy-chairs a real comfort when I wanted to rest.

I found the light in the stunning hall that had now become my studio so dim, even in front of the big glass doors, that trying to work was almost pointless. After struggling for two or three days, I told the head eunuch it was impossible. I didn’t want to burden Her Majesty with my issues since she had enough on her plate and seemed to get more anxious and depressed each day over the increasing rumors of war in Manchuria. But I couldn’t keep working where I was, so I decided to set up an area at one end of the hall, which jutted out beyond the overhanging eaves of the verandah, to have a better workspace. To get enough light, I needed to replace the upper paper windows with glass. The eunuchs objected, saying it would mean major changes and heavy costs, plus it would set a precedent since no other part of the Palace had glass windows at the top! The next time the Empress Dowager came in, I explained I couldn’t work under the current conditions. She noted how dark it was and saw the reflection from the yellow roof across the way. Upon hearing my request, she immediately ordered it to be done, saying she would “speak to the Emperor” about it. Any order from Her Majesty was always executed promptly, and two days later, to my surprise, the glass windows were installed as I had asked. I had the divan that was built under the windows removed and cleared out all the furniture from that end of the hall. The eunuchs hesitated about moving a huge elephant clock with incredible mechanisms, as it hadn’t been moved for one hundred fifty years, but I eventually managed to get that moved too! Even without the furniture, that end of the hall was still a small space to work in, but I had decent light and a quiet place to paint for the first time since I started painting the Empress Dowager. I was far enough away from Her Majesty’s chambers and those of the Princesses and Ladies to work in peace without interruptions. A set of European furniture had been added to the grand hall when it was designated for me, and while it didn’t fit artistically with the setting, the well-cushioned chairs were truly comfortable when I needed to rest.

As soon as I was comfortably settled in my new studio, the Empress Dowager began to talk of having another large portrait begun—large enough to represent her with all the paraphernalia of Royalty (the ceremonial fans, the three-fold screen, the nine phenix, plants of heavenly bamboo) and pyramids of apples—all emblematic, or symbolic. I told Her Majesty it 216 would be best to make a small study for this picture, and that the size of the portrait could be determined on after this was finished. She readily assented, and I began the small study. There were a number of beautiful thrones in the Palace, any one of which would have suited the lines of the composition. I selected one of the superb, antique thrones of red lacquer, a magnificent work of art, but the Empress Dowager did not care for this throne. It was not a matter of whether the lines or color suited the picture, the point was to have everything “Ho-shih” (proper), as the Chinese say. With the Chinese, propriety is a religion, and a thing that is “proper” must conform to tradition, for tradition and propriety are synonymous. The question of the throne was left in abeyance for the moment, as Her Majesty said there was one she would like to have painted, which she would have found before I began the big picture.

As soon as I got settled into my new studio, the Empress Dowager started talking about commissioning another large portrait—big enough to show her with all the royal accessories (the ceremonial fans, the three-fold screen, the nine phoenixes, heavenly bamboo plants) and piles of apples—all of which were symbolic. I suggested to Her Majesty that it would be best to make a small study for this picture first, and that we could decide the size of the portrait afterwards. She agreed quickly, and I started the small study. There were several beautiful thrones in the Palace, any of which would have worked well for the composition. I chose one of the stunning, antique thrones made of red lacquer, a magnificent piece of art, but the Empress Dowager didn’t like this throne. It wasn’t about whether the lines or colors matched the picture; the main thing was to have everything “Ho-shih” (proper), as the Chinese say. For the Chinese, propriety is a fundamental principle, and something that is “proper” must follow tradition, because tradition and propriety are the same. The question of the throne was put on hold for now, as Her Majesty mentioned there was one she would prefer to have painted, which she would find before I started the big portrait. 216

PRINCE CHING

I finally began the sketch. Her Majesty was dressed in one of her official winter gowns. Its fur lining rendered the already heavily embroidered satin stiffer than ever, and any stray folds that might perchance have appeared, were pulled out by a heavy fringe of pearls around the hem. She had on her famous pearl mantle over an official jacket. In her coiffure she wore her long tassel of pearls, and many curious ceremonial jewels. She had on fur-lined undersleeves, which hid half her beautiful hands. The effect of her tiny finger-tips, with their long curving nails and jeweled shields, the palms not being visible, was most unfortunate. Added to this, she held them 217 tightly together in her lap, and the lines were obscured by a large, pale-blue handkerchief in one hand.

I finally started the sketch. Her Majesty was wearing one of her official winter gowns. The fur lining made the already heavily embroidered satin even stiffer, and any stray folds that might have shown were smoothed out by a heavy fringe of pearls at the hem. She had on her famous pearl mantle over an official jacket. In her hairstyle, she wore a long tassel of pearls and several interesting ceremonial jewels. She had fur-lined undersleeves that covered half of her beautiful hands. The look of her tiny fingertips, with their long, curved nails and jeweled shields, was not ideal since the palms weren’t visible. On top of that, she held them tightly together in her lap, and the lines were obscured by a large, pale-blue handkerchief in one hand. 217

My heart fell. Thus I would lose one of her chief beauties. I begged Lady Yu-Keng to ask her to pose her hands differently. She said she could not do such a thing; so, in my inelegant Chinese, I told Her Majesty I did not like her hands as they were. “But I like them like that,” she said, looking at me with a charming expression of amused astonishment, amazed that it was possible for any one not to like what she liked; and she kept her hands as they were, and I was obliged to begin the picture with the hands in that position.

My heart sank. I would lose one of her main beauties. I asked Lady Yu-Keng to request that she pose her hands differently. She said that wasn’t possible, so in my clumsy Chinese, I told Her Majesty I didn’t like her hands as they were. “But I like them like that,” she replied, looking at me with a delightful look of surprised amusement, astonished that anyone could dislike something she enjoyed; and she kept her hands as they were, so I had to start the picture with her hands in that position.

The first sketch was quickly made, and Her Majesty expressed herself as pleased with it. Then came the discussion as to the size of the portrait. I made my measurements, and thought five feet by eight was large enough, but when she saw what size it was going to be, she thought six feet by ten would be better. The Palace carpenters were accordingly called in, and I gave them as accurate directions as I could, for making a stretcher. The Chinese workmen are clever, patient, and apt at carrying out suggestions, and the stretcher was satisfactorily made. But the canvas was to be put on this stretcher, and this they seemed to have no idea of, so I was obliged to try to do it myself. Owing to the size of the canvas, I was compelled to stand on a stool six feet high (they had no ladders), with the huge stretcher before me. An army of eunuchs stood around to assist me, presided over by a head eunuch. I used the iron pincers and pulled the canvas, myself. It 218 was held at the corners by eunuchs, also on stools; one eunuch held the tacks, another the hammer, etc. Each order I gave was repeated in a loud voice by the head eunuch, and at every failure to comprehend my directions, the working eunuchs were rebuked and threatened with the “bamboo.” Finally, I accomplished the difficult task, and the great canvas was stretched. Her Majesty was greatly exercised when she learned I had done it myself. She said that I should have made the eunuchs “stretch four or five,” until they learned to do one properly. But I hadn’t sufficient canvas for such experiments, and could get no more in China.

The first sketch was done quickly, and Her Majesty said she liked it. Then we discussed the size of the portrait. I measured and thought five feet by eight was big enough, but when she saw the size, she felt six feet by ten would be better. The Palace carpenters were called in, and I gave them the best instructions I could for making a stretcher. The Chinese workers are skilled, patient, and good at following directions, so the stretcher was made satisfactorily. However, they didn’t seem to know how to put the canvas on the stretcher, so I had to try to do it myself. Because of the size of the canvas, I had to stand on a six-foot-high stool (they didn’t have ladders) with the huge stretcher in front of me. A group of eunuchs gathered around to help, led by a head eunuch. I used iron pincers to pull the canvas myself. 218 The corners were held by eunuchs who were also on stools; one eunuch held the tacks, another held the hammer, and so on. Each command I gave was repeated loudly by the head eunuch, and whenever they didn’t understand my instructions, the working eunuchs were scolded and threatened with the “bamboo.” Finally, I managed to stretch the large canvas. Her Majesty was quite upset when she found out I did it myself. She said I should have made the eunuchs “stretch four or five” until they learned how to do one properly. But I didn’t have enough canvas for such experiments, and I couldn’t get more in China.

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CHAPTER XXVI Some social customs—Manchu and Chinese

I met the wives and families of all the Princes, nobles, and high Manchu officials in Peking, for they came to the Court at stated intervals, besides on many special occasions, when they were invited by Her Majesty. The most frequent of these visitors to the Palace were Prince Ching’s wives and daughters, the wives of the Emperor’s brothers, his father’s secondary wives and their daughters, and the sisters of the young Empress, one of whom is the clever Princess Schun. The widow of the Grand Secretary Yung Lu, who lost, in one year, her husband and a promising son, and who was nearly crazed by grief, also came often. She was not very brilliant, nor the kind of woman to appeal to Her Majesty; but her grief seemed to touch the Empress Dowager, and she received special marks of favor when in the Palace, and came and went as she willed. A step-daughter, whom she had herself brought up through a very delicate childhood, was the wife of the Emperor’s brother, Prince C’hun. Should they have a son he will probably be the next heir to the Throne.

I met the wives and families of all the princes, nobles, and high Manchu officials in Beijing, as they came to the court regularly, as well as for many special occasions when they were invited by Her Majesty. The most frequent visitors to the palace were Prince Ching’s wives and daughters, the wives of the Emperor’s brothers, his father’s secondary wives and their daughters, and the sisters of the young Empress, one of whom is the clever Princess Schun. The widow of Grand Secretary Yung Lu, who lost both her husband and a promising son in one year and was nearly driven mad by grief, also visited often. She wasn’t particularly impressive or the type of woman who attracted Her Majesty's attention, but her sorrow seemed to resonate with the Empress Dowager, and she received special treatment while in the palace, coming and going as she pleased. A step-daughter, whom she had raised through a very fragile childhood, was married to the Emperor’s brother, Prince C’hun. If they have a son, he will likely be the next heir to the throne.

On their marriage the brides of nobles of a certain rank go to the Palace to be presented to the Empress 220 Dowager. This ceremony corresponds to the presentation, on their marriage, of ladies at the English Court. These brides are always magnificently dressed in embroidered gowns of rich colors, and wear, for the first time, the Court coiffure of the married ladies, the magnificent golden filigree, jeweled construction, which I have already described, and for this occasion they wear a profusion of jewels. The Manchu ladies use much more discretion in wearing jewels than the Chinese ladies. The latter will sometimes wear as many as fifteen bracelets on each arm, and the number of jewels they put in their coiffure seems to be limited only by the space they have at their disposal.

When noble brides of a certain rank get married, they go to the Palace to be introduced to the Dowager Empress. 220 This ceremony is similar to the presentation of ladies at the English Court when they marry. These brides are always dressed extravagantly in embroidered gowns of rich colors and, for the first time, wear the Court hairstyle of married women—the stunning golden filigree, intricately adorned with jewels, which I’ve already described. For this occasion, they wear a lot of jewelry. Manchu women tend to be more reserved with their jewelry than Chinese women. The latter may wear as many as fifteen bracelets on each arm, and the number of jewels they place in their hairstyles seems to have no real limit, only restricted by the available space.

The brides come to the Palace in red satin bridal chairs, accompanied by their husband’s mother and his married sisters, if he has any; if not, by his nearest women relations. On their arrival in the Precincts they first go to the Throne-room and make their bows and prostrations before the Empress Dowager, to thank her for the gifts she has sent. Sometimes Her Majesty would speak to them at some length, seeming to give them advice. After making their obeisances to her, they then make their salutations to the young Empress. They spend the day at the Palace, take luncheon with the young Empress and Princesses, and leave about three o’clock. These brides were generally very young girls, though sometimes I was surprised to see that they had well passed the first bloom of youth, for I had thought that all Oriental women were married very young. The young Empress was always charming to the brides, and seemed to watch over their pleasure, and try to make them enjoy this 221 rather trying day, when they were the observed of all observers. Among these brides, the winter I was in Peking, was the wife of the Emperor’s youngest brother, a charming young girl with sweet manners, far more attractive in every way than Yung Lu’s daughter, the wife of Prince C’hun.

The brides arrive at the Palace in red satin chairs, accompanied by their husband's mother and married sisters, if he has any; if not, by his closest female relatives. Once they reach the Precincts, they first go to the Throne-room to bow and show respect to the Empress Dowager, thanking her for the gifts she has sent. Sometimes, Her Majesty would talk to them for a while, seeming to offer advice. After paying their respects to her, they then greet the young Empress. They spend the day at the Palace, having lunch with the young Empress and the Princesses, and leave around three o'clock. These brides were usually very young girls, though sometimes I was surprised to see that some were no longer in their youthful prime, as I had thought all Oriental women married very young. The young Empress was always gracious to the brides and seemed to focus on their enjoyment, trying to help them get through this somewhat daunting day, when they were the center of attention. Among these brides, the winter I was in Peking, was the wife of the Emperor’s youngest brother, a lovely young girl with a sweet demeanor, much more appealing in every way than Yung Lu’s daughter, the wife of Prince C’hun. 221

The Chinese look upon a daughter, at her birth, as a misfortune, one of the ills that must be endured, and while loving her individually, a daughter is not welcomed into the family nor allowed the privileges of a son. It is, however, quite different with the Manchus. A daughter not being able to sacrifice to the ancestors, even Manchus prefer a son; but a daughter is a welcome member of the family, and she has a distinct and independent position of her own. One of the Chinese ministers to Washington once told me that the only unmarried woman in the world whose position is analogous to that of the “American Girl,” in her own family, is the Manchu girl.

The Chinese view a daughter at birth as a misfortune, something to be endured. Although they may love her individually, a daughter is not welcomed into the family nor given the same privileges as a son. In contrast, the Manchus have a different perspective. While they still prefer a son since a daughter cannot perform sacrifices to the ancestors, a daughter is embraced as a valued family member and holds a distinct, independent role. One of the Chinese ministers to Washington once mentioned to me that the only unmarried woman in the world whose position is similar to that of the “American Girl” in her family is the Manchu girl.

As long as the Manchu girl remains unmarried, she is a veritable power in the household. She ranks as high as her brother, and always takes precedence of her brother’s wife, even if that wife be double her age and married before she was born. She precedes her mother even, as she is of the Blood and her mother of “another family.” Not only has she these social privileges, but she has well-defined legal rights. Her father cannot make a disposition of his property without his eldest daughter’s consent. She can go into her brother’s house, dismiss his servants, and generally direct his affairs. Her word has more weight as to the bringing up of her brother’s children than 222 his wife’s, as she is a sister, a born relation, and the wife is only an acquired relation. When she marries, however, she becomes a member of the family into which she marries; but even then, such is the ascendancy of the girl in the Manchu family, even after her marriage into another family, she often goes on dictating to her brother’s family and her own as before, if she does not find her own household duties and her own family sufficient occupation to keep her from doing so. Such is the force of consanguinity among the Manchus, and the position of the daughter in the family.

As long as the Manchu girl stays unmarried, she has real power in the household. She is considered equal to her brother and always takes precedence over her brother’s wife, even if that wife is much older and was married before she was born. She even outranks her mother since she is of the Blood and her mother belongs to “another family.” Not only does she have these social privileges, but she also has clearly defined legal rights. Her father cannot make decisions about his property without his eldest daughter’s approval. She can enter her brother’s home, fire his servants, and generally manage his affairs. Her influence over how her brother’s children are raised is greater than that of his wife because she is a sister, a blood relation, while the wife is merely an acquired relation. However, when she gets married, she becomes part of her husband’s family; yet even then, due to the strong influence of the girl in the Manchu family, she often continues to dictate matters to both her brother's family and her own, unless her household duties and her own family take up her time. This illustrates the importance of blood relations among the Manchus and the daughter's status in the family.

The unmarried Manchu girl has not only this liberty in her family, but she has more liberty in the outside world than any other Oriental woman.

The unmarried Manchu girl has not only this freedom within her family, but she also enjoys greater freedom in the outside world than any other Asian woman.

They are not so restricted in their social intercourse as any other Oriental women, and while they are not so literary as the Chinese, they have more social qualities and are brighter conversationalists, being both witty and gay.

They aren't as limited in their social interactions as other women from the East, and while they might not be as keen on literature as the Chinese, they possess better social skills and are more engaging in conversations, being both witty and lively.

They are not forced to marry against their inclinations and some remain single to the end of their days, or marry late in life if they so desire. These unmarried ladies are not only looked up to by their own families, but they are not regarded as being objects of commiseration by the world at large. On the contrary, they are rewarded with triumphal arches and splendid monuments if they have passed a long and exemplary life of maidenhood. Although the brides that came into the Palace were generally young, one who came to make her bow to the Empress Dowager, while I was there, was a lady of forty-two summers. 223 She had brought up two or three families of brothers’ children and directed their households; but she finally succumbed to the charms of a wealthy official, who had lost his wife two years before and who had a number of children on which she could continue to practise her theories as to their bringing up. Had she held out longer and died a maiden, she might have had an arch built to her memory after death and gone down to posterity.

They aren’t forced to marry against their wishes, and some stay single for their entire lives or marry later if they choose. These unmarried women are not only respected by their families, but they aren’t seen as objects of pity by society overall. Instead, they may be honored with grand tributes and impressive memorials if they’ve lived a long and exemplary single life. Although most brides entering the Palace were typically young, one woman who came to meet the Empress Dowager while I was there was forty-two years old. 223 She had raised two or three families of her brothers’ children and managed their households, but eventually she was won over by a wealthy official who had lost his wife two years prior and had several children for her to continue her upbringing ideas. If she had held out longer and remained a maiden, she might have had a memorial built in her honor after her death and been remembered fondly in history.

Only ladies, young girls and boys under seventeen were ever guests of the Empress Dowager in her Palace. The Manchu nobles and high officials were invited on certain days to the Theater, but there was always the high intervening screen between them and Her Majesty’s and the Ladies’ loges. The Princes and nobles who have official positions, see the Empress Dowager in the Audience Hall, and she is now over sixty. She has more liberty than before, but generally their Audiences are with the Emperor alone, and they never come into the Ladies’ Precincts. At the performance of the European circus in the Palace grounds I saw, for the first time, nearly all the Princes and Manchu officials.

Only ladies, young girls, and boys under seventeen were ever guests of the Empress Dowager in her palace. The Manchu nobles and high officials were invited to the theater on certain days, but there was always a high screen separating them from Her Majesty’s and the ladies’ loges. The princes and nobles with official positions see the Empress Dowager in the Audience Hall, and she is now over sixty. She has more freedom than before, but generally, their audiences are only with the Emperor, and they never enter the ladies' quarters. At the performance of the European circus in the palace grounds, I saw nearly all the princes and Manchu officials for the first time.

The Manchus are a taller race than the Chinese and more athletic-looking. They are fond of exercise, indulge in archery, riding, etc, and do not look down upon a military career, as do the Chinese. It is said that polo playing, which the English got from India, originated among the Tartars, and that it is still played in Manchuria. I never saw polo played by the Manchus, but I have seen some daring riding done by the young nobles that would seem to show they could 224 play polo if they would. The Manchu nobles have an inherited military rank, and they also receive military advancement for proficiency in archery and riding. The warlike spirit that prompted the Manchus and their progenitors, the Nu-Chih Tartars, who not only conquered China, but, as “the Huns,” almost overran Europe itself, is no longer so militant as it was. The modern Manchu is becoming almost as peace-loving as the Chinese themselves, but there are still qualities which show their descent from a race of warriors.

The Manchus are generally taller than the Chinese and have a more athletic appearance. They enjoy exercising, participating in activities like archery and riding, and don’t look down on a military career like the Chinese do. It’s said that polo, which the English adapted from India, originated with the Tartars, and it’s still played in Manchuria. I’ve never seen polo played by the Manchus, but I’ve witnessed some impressive riding by the young nobles that suggests they could play if they wanted to. 224 Manchu nobles have a hereditary military rank and also earn military promotions based on their skills in archery and riding. The warrior spirit that drove the Manchus and their ancestors, the Nu-Chih Tartars, who not only conquered China but also nearly invaded Europe as “the Huns,” is no longer as aggressive as it once was. Today’s Manchu is becoming nearly as peace-loving as the Chinese, but there are still traits that reflect their heritage as warriors.

They wear the ordinary Chinese costume, and though it is said “the shaven head and wearing of the queue” were instituted as marks of degradation for the Chinese when they were conquered by the Manchus, the Emperor himself and all the Manchu nobles shave their heads and wear the queue! They wear satin boots with white kid soles. Their hats, in summer of finely woven straw, and of fur in winter, have the crown covered with a tassel of red silk, surmounted by the jeweled button denoting their ranks. From this button stands out, almost at right angles, a jade-mounted aigret, mixed with the peafowl feathers, if they have attained that rank. In winter, they wear splendid sable short coats. Except these sable topcoats, fur is never worn on the outside of a garment in China, but is used only as a lining.

They wear the typical Chinese outfit, and although it is said that “the shaved head and queue” were established as symbols of shame for the Chinese when the Manchus took over, the Emperor and all the Manchu nobles shave their heads and wear the queue themselves! They sport satin boots with white kid soles. Their hats, made of finely woven straw in the summer and fur in the winter, feature a crown adorned with a red silk tassel and a jeweled button that indicates their rank. From this button, a jade-mounted aigret sticks out at almost a right angle, mixed with peafowl feathers, if they have reached that rank. In winter, they wear luxurious sable short coats. Aside from these sable topcoats, fur is never worn on the outside of garments in China; it's used only as a lining.

When I saw the Manchu nobles at the circus at the Summer Palace, they wore the splendid summer Court costume, embroidered in the double dragon, reaching below the knee. They were tightly belted in around the waist, and very full and ample across the shoulders, giving the men the appearance, at least, of broad shoulders, 225 and enhancing their already fine figures. One could see that the Emperor was the “glass of fashion and mold of form” of the young nobles; for they all aimed, as much as possible, at his slenderness of figure and even imitated his carriage. The young dandies, however, wore a much greater profusion of ornaments than His Majesty ever indulged in. The belt buckle, the handsomest ornament worn, was of carved jade, ruby quartz, or of beautifully chased gold set with precious stones. They were then wearing a profusion of ornaments dangling from their belts—embroidered cases for fans, chop-sticks and knives, and many other ornaments besides the watch, an indispensable adjunct to every Chinese gentleman’s costume. This is worn hanging from the belt in a handsome, embroidered case with an open front, so that the elaborate case, generally studded with jewels, beautifully enameled, or curiously incised, could be seen. This case had a sort of fob attachment made of silken cord, woven into quaint designs and finished generally with a wonderfully carved piece of jade, ruby quartz, or some other curious stone.

When I saw the Manchu nobles at the circus at the Summer Palace, they were dressed in the impressive summer Court outfit, embroidered with the double dragon, reaching below the knee. They were tightly belted at the waist and very loose and flowing across the shoulders, giving the men an appearance, at least, of broad shoulders, enhancing their already great figures. It was clear that the Emperor was the “trendsetter and model of form” for the young nobles; they all aimed, as much as they could, for his slim figure and even copied his posture. The young dandy-types, however, wore far more ornaments than His Majesty ever did. The belt buckle, the most beautiful accessory worn, was made of carved jade, ruby quartz, or intricately designed gold set with precious stones. They also had a multitude of ornaments hanging from their belts—embroidered cases for fans, chopsticks and knives, and many other trinkets in addition to the watch, an essential part of every Chinese gentleman’s outfit. This was worn hanging from the belt in a handsome, embroidered case with an open front, allowing the elaborate case, usually studded with jewels, beautifully enameled, or intricately carved, to be seen. This case had a kind of fob attachment made of silken cord, woven into unique designs and typically finished with a wonderfully carved piece of jade, ruby quartz, or some other interesting stone. 225

Manchu ladies wear their gowns long and loose, hanging from the shoulders, and never show the line of the waist, nor the outline of the figure; but the men belt in their gowns tightly, and are very proud of a small waist.

Manchu women wear their dresses long and loose, draping from the shoulders, and never reveal the shape of their waist or the outline of their bodies; however, the men wear their gowns tightly belted and take great pride in having a small waist.

Among the social customs in China, which obtain also among the Manchus, is “concubinage.” But it exists in such a form that in its actual state, it might more properly be called “plurality of wives.” The concubine, or secondary wife, as I will call her, is 226 taken from the bosom of her family, and her position in her husband’s family is considered as secure as that of the first wife. Though the first wife only has a legal standing, custom gives the secondary wife equal rights, and she is no more likely to be put aside than the first wife. There are, I suppose, men in China who put away a secondary wife, if they are wealthy enough to have taken one or several, but they would be socially and generally ostracized.

Among the social customs in China, which are also found among the Manchus, is “concubinage.” However, it exists in such a way that, in its current form, it would be better termed “having multiple wives.” The concubine, or secondary wife, as I will refer to her, is 226 taken from her family's embrace, and her status in her husband's family is regarded as secure as that of the first wife. While the first wife has legal standing, custom grants the secondary wife equal rights, and she is just as unlikely to be dismissed as the first wife. I suppose there are men in China who do dismiss a secondary wife if they are wealthy enough to have one or more, but they would be socially shunned and generally ostracized.

The man marries in China as soon as he reaches manhood. Some young girl who is of the same social standing and has the requisite qualities for his wife is chosen for him by his parents. This is the legitimate wife. She is the first and remains first always, taking precedence of any and all others that may be chosen. The secondary wife is often of the same class as the first wife. She is generally chosen by the man himself, and is taken from some good family who may be poor, and she is an honest young girl.

The man gets married in China as soon as he comes of age. His parents choose a young girl from the same social class, who has the qualities needed to be his wife. This girl is the official wife. She is the first and will always hold that position, taking priority over any other wives he may have. The secondary wife is usually from the same class as the primary wife. She is typically chosen by the man himself and comes from a respectable family that may be less well-off, and she is a decent young woman.

She is received, on her entrance into the household, by the wife and the man’s mother, if she be alive, and her position in the family is assigned to her. While she must pay court and due respect to the first wife, she has her own servants and her own rights, and leads her own independent life. The first wife has entire authority, in certain matters, over the secondary ones, but they generally live amicably together. As the first wife is married several years before any second wife is taken, and as she is also generally their superior in age, this entitles her to their respect, aside from her legal standing and her position as first in the household. The secondary wives stand in 227 the presence of the first wife until she asks them to sit. Should they have any children, the latter call the first wife “mother,” and though the mother has her part in bringing up the child, it calls her, if she be a secondary wife, by her first name, and, in important matters, her authority over the child must give way to that of the first wife. But the first wife rarely abuses her authority over the children any more than over the other wives, and does not interfere except for, what she thinks is, the child’s good.

She is welcomed, when she arrives at the household, by the wife and the man’s mother, if she is still alive, and her role in the family is assigned to her. While she must show respect and deference to the first wife, she has her own servants and rights, and lives her own independent life. The first wife has complete authority in certain matters over the secondary wives, but they generally get along well. Since the first wife is married several years before any second wife is brought in, and is usually older, she earns their respect, apart from her legal status and position as the head of the household. The secondary wives wait to be invited to sit by the first wife. If they have any children, those children call the first wife “mother,” and while the mother has a role in raising the child, the child calls the secondary wife by her first name, and in important matters, the secondary wife’s authority over the child is secondary to that of the first wife. However, the first wife rarely misuses her authority over the children or the other wives and only intervenes when she believes it's for the child's benefit. 227

In theory, according to our ideas, and with American or European women, this would be a sad state of affairs, but practically, as it exists in China and with Chinese women, it seems to work well. The arrangement of the houses in China is also well adapted for this kind of life. There are a number of courts surrounded by pavilions, each court and its pavilions forming a unit—a separate dwelling-place—this unit being a part of a great whole.

In theory, based on our ideas, this situation would be unfortunate for American or European women, but in practice, as it is in China with Chinese women, it seems to function well. The layout of homes in China is also well-suited for this way of living. There are several courtyards surrounded by pavilions, with each courtyard and its pavilions making up a unit—a separate living space—this unit being part of a larger whole.

The wives live in harmony together, and seem like a family of sisters. The first wife apparently takes pride in the good conduct and handsome appearance of the others, and there seems to be very little jealousy among them.

The wives live together in harmony and feel like a family of sisters. The first wife seems to take pride in the good behavior and attractive looks of the others, and there appears to be very little jealousy among them.

If this be the position of the secondary wife in the families of the gentry and nobility, one may imagine how much more exalted it is in the Imperial family and how the secondary wife of an Emperor would be considered. To have their daughter chosen as the secondary wife of an Emperor is looked upon as an honor in the highest Manchu families. Of course, 228 they would prefer to have her the first wife, for she has more power, but none of them would demur at an alliance of the secondary kind for their daughter, for she may thus become the mother of an Emperor, and she does become, by this marriage, a member of the Imperial family, and is treated as such. She ranks higher than any of the Princesses or Ladies of the Court, and takes precedence of all except the first wife, or a secondary wife, of the Emperor, who may have been married before she was. Her place is at the side of the first wife, the Empress. In the Palace she is called by the same title as the first wife, a Manchu word meaning “Mistress.” She cannot wear the Imperial yellow, it is true, but she does wear the Imperial orange, which no other Lady at Court can wear.

If this is the status of a secondary wife in the families of the gentry and nobility, you can imagine how much more elevated it is in the Imperial family and how people perceive the secondary wife of an Emperor. Having their daughter chosen as a secondary wife of an Emperor is considered a great honor in the top Manchu families. Naturally, they would prefer her to be the first wife, as she has more power, but none would object to a secondary marriage for their daughter, since it could mean she becomes the mother of an Emperor, and she becomes part of the Imperial family through this marriage, receiving the corresponding treatment. She ranks higher than any of the Princesses or Ladies of the Court, taking precedence over all except the first wife or a secondary wife of the Emperor who might have been married before her. Her position is beside the first wife, the Empress. In the Palace, she is referred to by the same title as the first wife, a Manchu word meaning “Mistress.” Although she may not wear the Imperial yellow, she does wear the Imperial orange, a color no other Lady at Court is allowed to wear.

These secondary wives are not taken for some physical quality from among the masses; they are not in the Palace as the result of a caprice of the Emperor. They are from the highest families in the land. They are generally chosen by the Emperor’s mother, if she be alive, with as much care as the first wife, and her position is inferior, only from an official standpoint, to that of the Empress. She may even become Empress herself on the death of the first wife and those who precede her. The Emperor of China has no “harem,” but he may have as many wives as he wishes. His wives never live together in the promiscuity of a harem, where all individuality is lost. Each wife has her own establishment and her own position, and is not dependent on her physical charms for her maintenance in that position, any more than is the first wife. Should she be the mother of children, she may advance 229 beyond the others who have none, excepting always the first wife; and even should she have no children, she has always her separate establishment and is considered a member of the family. The Emperor Kwang-Hsu has two wives, both designated by the same title in the Palace. In this account of my experiences I only allude to the first wife, because it would be confusing to speak of two Empresses where there is also an Empress Dowager, and also because the first wife, in this instance, is so much the stronger character and the more interesting personality.

These secondary wives aren't chosen for their looks from among the crowd; their presence in the Palace isn't just a whim of the Emperor. They come from the highest families in the country. Usually, the Emperor’s mother, if she's alive, selects them with as much care as the first wife, and her position is officially ranked just below that of the Empress. She could even become the Empress if the first wife and those ahead of her pass away. The Emperor of China doesn’t have a "harem," but he can have as many wives as he wants. His wives don’t live together in the chaotic environment of a harem, where individuality gets lost. Each wife has her own household and her own status, and her position isn’t based on her physical appearance, just like the first wife. If she has children, she may rise in status compared to those who don’t, except for the first wife; and even if she doesn’t have kids, she always has her own establishment and is seen as part of the family. Emperor Kwang-Hsu has two wives, both given the same title in the Palace. In sharing my experiences, I’ll focus only on the first wife to avoid confusion with two Empresses when there’s also an Empress Dowager, and because the first wife, in this case, has a much stronger character and is a more interesting person. 229

230

CHAPTER XXVII Gift-giving in China

Present-giving is really carried to great excess all over China, and whatever obtains in China obtains at the Palace. The Palace is spoken of in Peking as the “Inside,” that is, the heart of the Empire. From this “Inside,” customs and habits flow and pulse over the rest of China, as the blood does from the heart, by a thousand arteries reaching to the very confines of the Empire, and it also receives the impress of what passes on outside among the people. Whether it be, in the instance of present-giving, that the custom has grown from the “Inside” to the “Outside” or vice versa, I know not, but it is universal in China. However, it probably reaches its greatest excess in the Palace.

Gift-giving is really pushed to extremes all over China, and what happens in China also happens in the Palace. People in Beijing refer to the Palace as the “Inside,” meaning the heart of the Empire. From this “Inside,” customs and habits flow out and spread throughout the rest of China, like blood from the heart, through countless pathways reaching to the very edges of the Empire, while also reflecting what takes place outside among the people. I don’t know if the tradition of gift-giving started from the “Inside” and spread to the “Outside” or if it's the other way around, but it's widespread in China. However, it likely reaches its peak in the Palace.

Births, marriages, and deaths are all marked by presents, and there is a very riot of present-giving at the New Year! Every one then exchanges them, from the lowest to the highest. Next comes the anniversary of the birth. This is celebrated with an unheard-of pomp in China. The more exalted the rank and the greater the age, the more splendid is the celebration and the more magnificent the presents. The Emperor’s Birthday was the first I saw celebrated, and I 231 was astonished at the number and elegance of the presents that flowed into the Palace on this occasion. But at the Empress Dowager’s Birthday all this was far surpassed; and her presents exceeded in number and elegance His Majesty’s, for she was celebrating more years than the Emperor, and the number and value of birthday presents increase in proportion to the years. Their elegance and number are also regulated by the rank. The presents the Grand Secretary and the Prime Minister receive on such occasions would quite astonish a Westerner, and, of course, far surpass in number and magnificence what would be offered to the president of a department, as his would exceed, in elegance, those offered to secretaries of the Board.

Births, marriages, and deaths all come with gifts, and there's a huge celebration of gift-giving at New Year! Everyone exchanges gifts, from the lowest to the highest. Then there's the birthday anniversary. This is celebrated with incredible grandeur in China. The higher someone's rank and the older they are, the more extravagant the celebration and the more impressive the gifts. The Emperor's Birthday was the first one I witnessed, and I was amazed at the sheer number and elegance of the gifts that poured into the Palace for this occasion. However, the Empress Dowager's Birthday completely surpassed it; her gifts outnumbered and outshone His Majesty's because she was celebrating more years than him, and the amount and value of birthday gifts increase with each year. Their elegance and quantity also depend on rank. The presents that the Grand Secretary and the Prime Minister receive on such occasions would astound someone from the West, and of course, they far exceed in number and splendor what would be given to a department president, which in turn would be more elaborate than those given to the secretaries of the Board.

Every festival, every ceremony, and all anniversaries are marked by presents, in the Palace. There is scarcely a day that presents are not sent into the Palace, that some are not sent out, and rarely a day when some presents are not exchanged by those “Inside.” The Empress Dowager and the Emperor receive the greatest number, and, of course, they give the greatest number. This seemed to me the greatest extravagance of the Empress Dowager. At every change of season, she presents the young Empress, the Princesses, and Ladies, without reference to her favorites, with silks, dresses, shoes, and ornaments appropriate to the season, and not only do the Ladies receive these articles of wearing apparel at the changes of the season: she gives them many presents at each festival. Besides this, she gives nearly all the expensive Court dresses that are worn at the Palace, which cost, with 232 their embroideries, from three to six hundred dollars each. She presents the Ladies with coiffures and many jeweled ornaments as well. On the occasion of a wedding among the Manchu nobility, which must be announced to the Court before it takes place, Her Majesty presents the bride handsome rolls of silk, embroideries, and jewels. On the occasion of births among the courtiers, she sends handsome ornaments to be worn by the new-born child. Even on the death of certain people, she sends handsome presents to the family, or something to be worn by the departed, if it should be a widow, who had led a long and exemplary life of widowhood, and had devoted herself to charity and good works.

Every festival, ceremony, and anniversary is celebrated with gifts in the Palace. There’s hardly a day when gifts aren’t sent into the Palace, when some aren’t sent out, or when those “Inside” don’t exchange gifts. The Empress Dowager and the Emperor receive the most, and naturally, they give the most as well. To me, this seemed like the biggest extravagance of the Empress Dowager. With every change of season, she gives the young Empress, the Princesses, and Ladies—regardless of her favorites—silks, dresses, shoes, and seasonal accessories. Not only do the Ladies receive these items at the changing seasons, but she also gifts them numerous presents at every festival. Furthermore, she provides almost all the expensive Court dresses worn in the Palace, which cost between three to six hundred dollars each, including their embroideries. She also gifts the Ladies with hairstyles and many jeweled accessories. When there’s a wedding among the Manchu nobility, which has to be announced to the Court beforehand, Her Majesty gifts the bride beautiful rolls of silk, embroideries, and jewels. When there are births among the courtiers, she sends lovely gifts to be worn by the newborn. Even upon someone's death, she sends beautiful gifts to the family or something to be worn by the deceased, such as for a widow who lived a long and exemplary life of widowhood, dedicated to charity and good works.

When the ladies of the Legation were first received at the Palace, the Empress Dowager naturally followed the Chinese Imperial custom of giving each lady a present. This precedent having been established and seeming to have given pleasure, when the ladies were received the next time, which was after the Boxer rebellion, she gave them presents again. Unfortunately, this act was construed into a desire on her part to wheedle the foreigners, and curry favor, so that she might receive better treatment at the hands of the Powers. The truth is, she loves to play the Lady Bountiful, and she never mixes up the social with the political, and I am sure she had no “arrière-pensée” but was simply indulging her usual bent. After the first few Audiences (when the presents were really of value), Her Majesty gave small and unimportant presents at the garden parties, which were made the subject of ridicule. Her Majesty had heard that the ladies did 233 not wish to receive such handsome presents as she had first given, and she hence gave inexpensive souvenirs. Finally, the Ministers asked the Chinese Foreign Office to request the Empress Dowager to give no more presents at the Audiences, and the custom was abolished; though Her Majesty continued to give presents in private, and she still sends, on the four great Chinese festivals, flowers, fruits, and confectionery to all the ladies of the Legation, as well as to every lady who has ever been received at the garden parties, and on the departure of any Minister from Peking, she sends his wife some parting presents.

When the ladies of the Legation were first welcomed at the Palace, the Empress Dowager naturally followed the Chinese Imperial tradition of giving each lady a gift. This practice was established and seemed to bring happiness, so when the ladies were welcomed again after the Boxer Rebellion, she presented them with gifts once more. Unfortunately, this act was interpreted as a way for her to charm the foreigners and gain favor, hoping for better treatment from the international powers. The truth is, she enjoys playing the generous host, and she rarely mixes social matters with political ones. I’m sure she had no ulterior motives and was just indulging in her usual generosity. After the first few meetings (when the gifts were genuinely valuable), Her Majesty began giving small and trivial items at the garden parties, which became the subject of mockery. Her Majesty heard that the ladies preferred not to receive such lavish gifts as she had originally given, so she started offering inexpensive souvenirs. Eventually, the Ministers asked the Chinese Foreign Office to request that the Empress Dowager stop giving gifts during the meetings, and the tradition was discontinued; however, Her Majesty continued to give gifts privately and still sends flowers, fruits, and sweets to all the ladies of the Legation on the four major Chinese festivals, as well as to every woman who has ever attended the garden parties. When any Minister leaves Peking, she sends his wife some farewell gifts.

But though present-giving has been stopped at the Audiences of the foreign ladies, it goes on with the same excess in the Palace and among officials in China. At each of Their Majesties’ Birthdays, in spite of their protests and edicts to prevent it, presents pour into the Palace! Every official who has ever been presented in Audience, or who has the right, by his official position, to send anything, does so. Edicts from the Throne to prevent it will remain as ineffectual as those with reference to the binding of the feet of the Chinese women (which Her Majesty has for years been “recommending” in edicts to be abolished), for it has become so thoroughly a part of Chinese life as to be almost indispensable. Present-giving in China is one of those “unwritten laws” whose tyranny is hardest to break away from. Though the system of present-giving is a great tax on the officials, as well as their subordinates, in this instance the change must come from the people.

But even though giving gifts has stopped at the audiences of foreign ladies, it continues with the same excess in the Palace and among officials in China. On each of Their Majesties’ Birthdays, despite their protests and orders to stop it, gifts flood into the Palace! Every official who has ever attended an audience, or who has the right because of their official position to send something, does so. Orders from the Throne to prevent this are as ineffective as those regarding the binding of Chinese women's feet (which Her Majesty has been “recommending” be abolished for years), because it has become such an ingrained part of Chinese life that it's nearly indispensable. Gift-giving in China is one of those “unwritten laws” that is hardest to break free from. Although the system of giving gifts is a significant burden on officials and their subordinates, in this case, the change must come from the people.

As I was an inmate of the Palace for so long, of 234 course I came in for my share of presents from the Empress Dowager. At every festival I was remembered, as well as the Princesses and Ladies of the Court, and when presents were sent to the ladies of the Legation, she sent similar ones to me. Many of the presents she made me showed a real consideration for my comfort and displayed much forethought. When the weather became cool, and the Ladies of the Court put on wadded dresses, Her Majesty sent one of her maids to my apartments to get one of my tailor-made dresses. She had the Palace tailors copy this in wadded silk. It was wonderful how well they did it, too, for, as I knew nothing about it, I could give no advice. She ordered a few changes made in the severity of the tailor-costume, thinking it was too hard in its lines. She had a long, soft sash to tie at the side, which, she decided, made it look more graceful. When the Princesses put on furs, Her Majesty, herself, designed for me a long fur-lined garment which she thought would be comfortable to paint in. She had some trouble in arriving at a result which pleased her, which would be warm enough, and which, at the same time, would not interfere with the freedom of movement necessary for me to work with ease. At the time of the Chinese New Year, she sent me two curiously fashioned fur-lined dresses. She had the skirts copied from old pictures. They were not unlike our pleated skirts, with an embroidered panel down the center of the front. The jackets were a sort of compromise between European and Chinese, and the costumes were not only pretty but very comfortable.[7]

Since I was living in the Palace for so long, 234 I naturally received my share of gifts from the Empress Dowager. During every festival, I was remembered, just like the Princesses and the Ladies of the Court, and when gifts were sent to the ladies of the Legation, she made sure to send similar ones to me. Many of the gifts she gave me showed genuine thoughtfulness for my comfort. When the weather got cooler and the Ladies of the Court started wearing padded dresses, Her Majesty sent one of her maids to my rooms to pick up one of my tailor-made dresses. She had the Palace tailors create a version in padded silk. It was amazing how well they did it because I didn’t know anything about it and couldn’t offer any advice. She requested a few changes to soften the look of the tailored outfit, as she thought the lines were too harsh. She added a long, soft sash to tie at the side, which made it look more elegant. When the Princesses began wearing furs, Her Majesty personally designed a long fur-lined piece for me that she thought would be comfortable for painting. She worked hard to create something that would keep me warm while also allowing me the freedom to move easily while I worked. For Chinese New Year, she sent me two uniquely styled fur-lined dresses. The skirts were inspired by old images and resembled our pleated skirts, featuring an embroidered panel in the center front. The jackets mixed European and Chinese styles, and the outfits were not only beautiful but also very comfortable.

THE AUTHOR IN CHINESE COSTUME

THE AUTHOR IN CHINESE OUTFIT

235 For wearing with these she ordered a sable hat, for the Chinese ladies wear some sort of coiffure on the head, winter and summer. This had an embroidered crown of pale lavender satin, with long satin streamers embroidered in gold with good-luck emblems. The brim could be worn either turned off the face or pulled over the ears and tied under the chin with lavender strings. She said she had some trouble in finding a design which she thought would suit me. This hat she had also had copied from old prints. I learned later she had tried three sorts of sables before she got a color which she thought would be becoming to my unfortunate blonde hair! On the front of the brim she placed a Princess Button. This is worn only by Ladies of the Court, and represents the Flaming Pearl of the Dynasty. It was established by the founders of the Dynasty and is the distinguishing jewel of the members of the Imperial family. It consists of a large pearl, surrounded by three alternating rows of seed-pearls and corals, which are supposed to represent flames! This Flaming Pearl, symbol of the “Unattainable,” is the eternal quest of the double dragon!

235 To match this, she ordered a sable hat, since Chinese ladies wear some kind of hairstyle on their heads, no matter the season. This hat featured an embroidered crown of light lavender satin, with long satin ribbons stitched in gold, embellished with good-luck symbols. The brim could be styled either turned up away from the face or pulled down over the ears and tied under the chin with lavender strings. She mentioned having some difficulty finding a design she thought would suit me. This hat was also inspired by old prints. I later learned she had tried three different kinds of sables before settling on a color she believed would flatter my unfortunate blonde hair! On the front of the brim, she placed a Princess Button. This is worn exclusively by Ladies of the Court and represents the Flaming Pearl of the Dynasty. It was established by the founders of the Dynasty and is the distinguishing jewel of the Imperial family members. It consists of a large pearl, surrounded by three alternating rows of seed pearls and corals, meant to symbolize flames! This Flaming Pearl, symbolizing the “Unattainable,” is the eternal pursuit of the double dragon!

Her Majesty also presented me with a number of other charming things that I shall always treasure as coming from her, and as evidence of her consideration for “the stranger within her gates,” or as spontaneous offerings from her naturally generous nature—ever desirous of giving pleasure. I wish I might have preserved the flowers and curious grasses which she, herself, gathered and gave me on our many promenades 236 around the beautiful grounds of the Summer Palace, but which, alas! are withered and gone!

Her Majesty also gave me several other delightful things that I will always cherish as coming from her, and as proof of her kindness toward “the stranger within her gates,” or as genuine offerings from her naturally generous spirit—always wanting to bring joy. I wish I could have kept the flowers and interesting grasses that she picked and gave me during our many walks around the lovely grounds of the Summer Palace, but unfortunately, they are withered and gone! 236

237

CHAPTER XXVIII SOME WINTER DAYS AT THE PALACE

The big, official portrait for St. Louis was advancing. I was able to accomplish much more now that I had a place where I could work uninterruptedly, and quietly study the painting when I was not working. Her Majesty came, with her usual retinue, to pose, but it was not at fixed times, and was often when I did not expect her. She was looking more and more anxious these days; but she came to pose whenever it was necessary, and was very particular as to all the details in the portrait. She often had the jewels and ornaments changed, and her pearl mantle was made over, after she saw it in the first sketch, as she did not like its form.

The big, official portrait for St. Louis was coming along. I could get a lot more done now that I had a place to work without interruptions and could study the painting quietly when I wasn’t busy. Her Majesty came, along with her usual entourage, to pose, but it wasn’t at set times and often caught me off guard. She seemed increasingly anxious these days; however, she posed whenever needed and was very particular about every detail in the portrait. She frequently had the jewels and ornaments swapped out, and after seeing the first sketch, she had her pearl mantle redesigned because she didn’t like its shape.

The throne, about which there had been a question when I began the portrait, and which had been a present to Her Majesty from the late Emperor Tong Chih, her son, had been “lost” during the Boxer troubles, but Her Majesty thought it might be reproduced from descriptions and from sketches by the Palace painters who had seen it; but I could not consent to work either from memory or other painters’ sketches, and I was finally obliged to paint, “faute de mieux,” one of the carved teakwood thrones of which 238 Her Majesty is so fond. This throne did not suit the straight lines of the composition so well as almost any other in the Palace would have done, but Her Majesty wished it.

The throne, which was in question when I started the portrait and had been a gift from the late Emperor Tong Chih, her son, had been “lost” during the Boxer troubles. However, Her Majesty thought it could be recreated from descriptions and sketches by the Palace painters who had seen it. I couldn't agree to work from either memory or other painters’ sketches, so I ultimately had to paint, “faute de mieux,” one of the carved teakwood thrones that Her Majesty loves. 238 This throne didn’t match the straight lines of the composition as well as almost any other in the Palace would have, but Her Majesty wanted it.

I found the representation of the nine life-size phenix, in vigorous colors, on a blue cloisonné screen placed almost touching the throne, very difficult to represent, so that they did not seem to be real birds flying around her head. The vases of flowers and ornaments were also placed at exactly equal distances on either side of the throne, but it was necessary to paint them this way. It would not have been “proper” otherwise. The figure was in the exact center of the three-fold screen, and so near it, it was impossible to get any atmosphere in the background. There was not a fold in either gown or sleeves; but I had now resigned myself to convention and tradition, and I copied mechanically what was placed before me, and made no more efforts at artistic arrangements, nor tried any experiments in execution. I worked like a good artisan, finishing so many inches a day.

I found it really hard to depict the nine life-size phoenixes, in vibrant colors, on a blue cloisonné screen that was almost touching the throne, so they didn’t look like real birds flying around her head. The flower vases and decorations were also placed at equal distances on either side of the throne, but they needed to be painted this way. It wouldn’t have been “proper” otherwise. The figure was positioned right in the center of the three-fold screen, and being so close to it, there was no way to create any atmosphere in the background. There wasn’t a crease in either the gown or sleeves; but I had come to accept convention and tradition, and I mechanically copied what was in front of me, making no further attempts at artistic arrangement or experimental technique. I worked like a good craftsman, completing a certain number of inches each day.

The weather was now too cold for anything but the short constitutional, and, besides, there was no place in the Winter Palace to tempt one to promenades—only the walled-in courts and the shut-in walks, between high walls. Even Her Majesty’s promenades were confined to going to the Audience Hall in the morning, and walking through the courts, from one Throne-room to another.

The weather was now too cold for anything but a quick walk, and besides, there was no place in the Winter Palace that invited leisurely strolls—only the enclosed courtyards and narrow paths between tall walls. Even Her Majesty’s outings were limited to going to the Audience Hall in the morning and walking through the courtyards, from one Throne Room to another.

Every day we saw the Empress Dowager for some moments in her Throne-room before I went to my work. On Theater days, I made her my morning salutation 239 in her loge at the Theater, and when the light faded and I could paint no more, I would go into the young Empress’s and the Ladies’ loge for the last play and the spectacular finale, when there were always some good illuminations and pretty effects. Her Majesty and the young Empress seemed now to perfectly understand that I wanted to work, and must work, in order to finish the large portrait for the St. Louis Exposition. They saw I appreciated the amusements and ceremonies, etc, but that I did not wish them to interfere with my work. When there was a special festival, or some fine ceremony, I was always called in, but otherwise I might go or not, as I wished.

Every day, we had a brief chance to see the Empress Dowager in her Throne room before I headed off to work. On Theater days, I would greet her in her loge at the Theater in the morning, and when the light faded and I could no longer paint, I would join the young Empress and the Ladies in their loge for the final play and the spectacular finale, which always featured some great lighting and beautiful effects. Her Majesty and the young Empress seemed to understand that I needed to work on the large portrait for the St. Louis Exposition. They recognized that I appreciated the entertainment and ceremonies, but I didn't want them to interfere with my work. When there was a special festival or an important ceremony, I was always invited, but otherwise, I could choose whether to attend or not. 239

I lunched generally with the Ladies, with the charming young Empress as gracious hostess, and dined at night at Her Majesty’s table. Two huge copper braziers had now been placed in the Throne-room, and though so picturesque with the blue flames curling above their openings in the top, they made but little impression upon the temperature of this lofty room. The curtains over the immense doors that opened on the courts were constantly being raised for the passage of some eunuch, and it was very drafty. But one could at least warm one’s hands by the braziers, and they were so beautiful and picturesque, I was reconciled to being a little cold; besides, I soon became accustomed to the temperature. The Chinese Ladies wear heavy fur-lined dresses in the house, and cannot stand the rooms very warm.

I usually had lunch with the Ladies, with the charming young Empress as our gracious host, and dined at Her Majesty’s table in the evening. Two large copper braziers had been set up in the Throne room, and while they looked beautiful with the blue flames curling above their openings, they didn’t really warm up the lofty space. The curtains over the huge doors that led to the courtyards were constantly being raised for the passage of some eunuch, creating a draft. But at least I could warm my hands by the braziers, and since they were so beautiful, I didn’t mind being a little cold; plus, I quickly got used to the temperature. The Chinese Ladies wear heavy fur-lined dresses indoors and don’t like the rooms to be too warm.

At dinner, a large carpet was now placed under the table, which was an improvement over the cold marble floors. This was done for my comfort, for 240 the Chinese Ladies wear two-inch-thick cork soles to their fur-lined shoes. Down the center of the table, during the winter, there were several silver chafing-dishes, with burning charcoal beneath their steaming contents. Soups, vegetables, and meat stews were thus kept boiling hot on the table. One night I suggested to one of the eunuchs to place the claret-bottle near the fire before serving it, that the chill might be taken off. One very cold day, soon after, the eunuch brought in a large teapot, and began pouring the boiling claret out of this! The Chinese drink their wines hot, and he thought he would improve on my suggestion of “taking off the chill,” and he naïvely remarked “it was better for me to drink it thus on such a cold day!”

At dinner, a large carpet was placed under the table, which was an upgrade from the cold marble floors. This was done for my comfort because 240 the Chinese ladies wore two-inch-thick cork soles on their fur-lined shoes. Down the center of the table, several silver chafing dishes had burning charcoal underneath their steaming contents during the winter. Soups, vegetables, and meat stews were kept boiling hot on the table. One night, I suggested to one of the eunuchs to put the claret bottle near the fire before serving it to take off the chill. Soon after, on a very cold day, the eunuch brought in a large teapot and started pouring the boiling claret out of it! The Chinese drink their wines hot, and he thought he would improve on my suggestion of “taking off the chill,” and he naïvely remarked that it was better for me to drink it this way on such a cold day!

When there was no Theater, and it became too dark to paint, I would join the young Empress and Ladies in their sitting-room at the left of Her Majesty’s Throne-room and there await dinner. The young Empress would then teach me Chinese. She was very particular about my accent and seemed to take a real interest in my progress. The Chinese language is very difficult for a beginner, even for one who has a good ear, for the “tone” or inflection with which you pronounce the word may change its meaning. Sometimes one after the other of the Princesses would repeat the same word in different tones and make me repeat it and then give the meaning of each tone. They would sometimes make puns on words, or give me a string of difficult words for the accent and to improve my enunciation, as the French teach the children, “Trois gros rats dans trois gros trous.” When 241 I would finally get quite tangled up with these words I would retaliate with “Peter Piper picked a peck of pickled peppers.” This would end the lesson for that day, for they would all try to say it and get so hilarious that there was no effort at further study, and dinner would be announced in the midst of the fun.

When there was no theater, and it got too dark to paint, I would join the young Empress and her ladies in their sitting room to the left of Her Majesty’s throne room and wait for dinner. The young Empress would teach me Chinese. She was very particular about my accent and seemed genuinely interested in my progress. Chinese is really tough for beginners, even for those with a good ear, since the tone or inflection used when pronouncing a word can change its meaning. Sometimes one of the princesses would say the same word in different tones and have me repeat it, explaining the meaning of each tone. They would also make puns or give me a string of tricky words to work on my accent and improve my enunciation, like the French do with children: "Trois gros rats dans trois gros trous." When 241 I finally got totally mixed up with these words, I would respond with “Peter Piper picked a peck of pickled peppers.” That would end the lesson for the day, as they would all try to say it and end up laughing so much that further study was impossible, and dinner would be announced in the middle of the fun.

Sometimes the young Empress and the Ladies would play cards in the evenings. Her Majesty seemed only to like her fairy game! The cards were narrow slips of pasteboard with curious devices on each, but little more than an inch wide, and there were one hundred and fifty in a pack. I never succeeded in getting into the merits of the game. Sometimes when the Ladies felt industriously inclined, they would weave a kind of braid. The threads, gold, silver, or silk, were attached to the center of a wooden table and were weighted at the ends. They would weave these in and out into cunningly fashioned braids and ribbons. The Princesses did a great deal of beautiful embroidery, making their own shoes, which are of exquisitely embroidered satin, but they could not do this at night, for only candles are used in the two Peking Palaces, the Summer Palace being the only one in China lighted by electricity.

Sometimes the young Empress and the ladies would play cards in the evenings. Her Majesty seemed to really enjoy her fairy game! The cards were narrow pieces of cardboard with interesting designs on each one, but they were only about an inch wide, and there were one hundred and fifty in a deck. I never managed to understand the game. Sometimes, when the ladies felt like being productive, they would weave a type of braid. The threads, made of gold, silver, or silk, were attached to the center of a wooden table and weighted at the ends. They would weave these in and out into cleverly crafted braids and ribbons. The princesses did a lot of beautiful embroidery, making their own shoes, which were made of exquisitely embroidered satin, but they couldn’t do this at night, as only candles were used in the two Peking Palaces, with the Summer Palace being the only one in China that was lit by electricity.

One night at dinner the young Empress asked me to come earlier than usual the next morning, as there was something she wished me to see. Several eunuchs were waiting at the gate of the Palace to conduct us to the young Empress when we arrived at nine o’clock the next morning, and I then learned this was her Birthday. I hurried in and found the Imperial Princess and all the Ladies of the Palace, besides a number of visitors, 242 standing in front of the young Empress’s pavilion. They told me she had asked them to wait to present their congratulations until I came, and said that I was to go in first. I did so, and there, on a throne, sat the young Empress in full Court dress, wearing the Court coiffure, with its veil of pearls, which was most becoming to her narrow patrician face. She was looking very sweet and gracious and held out her tiny hand to me on my entrance. I bowed low over it and kissed it, and wished her from the bottom of my heart “ten thousand” years of happiness and all kinds of “felicitous omens.” I then started to move out, but she told me to remain in the room at one side and watch the Princesses and Ladies as they came in. Each made the prostrations before her and presented a jade “ruyie,”[8] which she received with due ceremony—the same ceremony as for the Emperor’s and Empress Dowager’s Birthday!

One night at dinner, the young Empress asked me to come in earlier than usual the next morning because there was something she wanted me to see. When we arrived at the Palace at nine o’clock the next morning, several eunuchs were waiting to take us to the young Empress, and I found out that it was her birthday. I hurried inside and saw the Imperial Princess and all the Ladies of the Palace, along with a number of visitors, 242 standing in front of the young Empress’s pavilion. They told me she had asked them to wait to offer their congratulations until I arrived and said that I should go in first. I did, and there, on a throne, sat the young Empress in her full Court dress, wearing the Court hairstyle with its pearl veil, which looked beautiful on her elegant, narrow face. She appeared very sweet and gracious, and she extended her tiny hand to me as I entered. I bowed over her hand and kissed it, wishing her from the bottom of my heart “ten thousand” years of happiness and all kinds of “good fortune.” I then started to step out, but she told me to stay in the room on one side and watch the Princesses and Ladies as they came in. Each one bowed deeply before her and presented a jade “ruyie,” which she accepted with the same ceremony as for the Emperor’s and Empress Dowager’s birthdays!

But these winter days were not all given up to the Theater and festivals. There were some days of sadder import. Days of mourning were often celebrated at the Palace. The anniversary of the deaths of some Emperor or Ancestor was of frequent occurrence. It seemed to me they celebrated the anniversary of the death of every Emperor of the Dynasty! On these days there would be sacrifices at the ancestral tablets and religious ceremonies early in the mornings. The Empress Dowager and the whole Court would wear mourning for the day and there was never any sort of amusement. White, which is full mourning, is not worn on these anniversaries after the third, but violet and blue (second mourning) is put on. The flowers worn in the 243 coiffure were also in violet, white or blue, the mourning colors. One night at dinner the young Empress, who acts as Mistress of Ceremonies in the Palace, told me the following was a day of mourning. She asked me if I would wear one of the mourning colors, as it was the anniversary of the death of the Emperor Tung-Chih (the Empress Dowager’s son).

But these winter days weren't all about the theater and festivals. There were some days with a more somber significance. Days of mourning were often observed at the Palace. It seemed like they marked the anniversary of the death of every Emperor from the Dynasty! On these days, sacrifices were made at the ancestral tablets and religious ceremonies took place early in the mornings. The Empress Dowager and the entire Court would dress in mourning for the day, and there would be no entertainment at all. White, which signifies full mourning, isn't worn on these anniversaries after the third year, but violet and blue (representing second mourning) are used instead. The flowers worn in the 243 hairstyles were also in violet, white, or blue, the colors of mourning. One night at dinner, the young Empress, who serves as the Mistress of Ceremonies in the Palace, told me that the following day would be a day of mourning. She asked if I would wear one of the mourning colors, as it was the anniversary of Emperor Tung-Chih's death (the Empress Dowager’s son).

The next day I put on a black dress, our mourning, and wore violet flowers in my hair. When we entered, Her Majesty was sacrificing at the small shrine in her sitting-room. She was dressed in dark violet, heavily trimmed with black, and had not a flower of any kind in her hair—only a few pearls. She looked very sad and was more earnest and reverent at the sacrifice than usual, but when she had finished her sacrifice, she bade us “Good morning” and inquired after our health, with her usual consideration. We soon left the Throne-room for my working-hall, and I did not see her again until after our dinner with the Empress and Ladies, when we went into the Throne-room to make our adieus. As I had not been wearing black for some time (as Her Majesty said she didn’t like it), she now noticed that I had it on and she asked Lady Yu-Keng, in an aside, “why.” She was told that when I knew what anniversary it was, I had put it on on that account. She seemed much touched, took my hand in both hers, and said, “You have a good heart to think of my grief and to have wished to sympathize,” and tears fell from her eyes on my hand, which she held in hers.

The next day I wore a black dress for mourning and added violet flowers in my hair. When we walked in, Her Majesty was praying at the small shrine in her sitting room. She was dressed in dark violet, heavily trimmed with black, and had no flowers in her hair—just a few pearls. She looked very sad and was more serious and respectful during the prayer than usual, but when she finished, she greeted us with “Good morning” and asked how we were, as she always did. We soon left the Throne-room for my working hall, and I didn't see her again until after dinner with the Empress and the Ladies, when we returned to the Throne-room to say our goodbyes. Since I hadn't worn black for a while (because Her Majesty said she didn’t like it), she noticed I was wearing it now and asked Lady Yu-Keng, quietly, why. She was told that I had put it on because I knew what anniversary it was. Her Majesty seemed very touched, took my hand in both of hers, and said, “You have a kind heart to think of my sorrow and to want to express your sympathy,” and tears fell from her eyes onto my hand, which she held in hers.

Poor lady! Private sorrows and sad memories were not all she had to grieve her now. I had noticed 244 her growing anxiety for many days! She seemed to feel all the gravity of the political situation of China. As the rumors of war between Russia and Japan grew, her anxiety increased and she was looking sad and careworn. She seemed to be full of doubt and fear, and quite unlike her usual self. I fancy she thought of the unprepared state of her country and feared that it might be drawn into this struggle. She seemed to be in doubt as to the course that was best to be taken. Even should the Empire not be drawn into the conflict, two hostile nations were to meet within its borders. The struggle was to take place in Manchuria, the cradle of the Dynasty. That beautiful, smiling country would be ravished by war, and the awful possibility of the ancestral tombs being desecrated, loomed up before her. The desecration of the tombs of one’s ancestors in China is supposed to bring dire consequences upon the family, and a pious Chinaman would face any material loss rather than run the risk of these tombs being desecrated. She felt it all, and was sad indeed.

Poor lady! Her private sorrows and sad memories weren’t the only things weighing on her mind now. I had noticed 244 her increasing anxiety for many days! She seemed to grasp the seriousness of China's political situation. As rumors of war between Russia and Japan spread, her anxiety grew, and she looked sad and worn down. She seemed filled with doubt and fear, very different from her usual self. I imagine she worried about her country being unprepared and feared it might get caught up in this conflict. She seemed uncertain about the best course of action. Even if the Empire was not directly involved in the fighting, two hostile nations would clash on its soil. The battle was set to happen in Manchuria, the heart of the Dynasty. That beautiful, once-peaceful land would be devastated by war, and the terrible possibility of the ancestral tombs being violated loomed before her. In China, desecrating an ancestor's tomb is believed to bring serious misfortune to the family, and a devout Chinese person would prefer to face any material loss rather than risk this desecration. She felt it all and was indeed very sad.

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CHAPTER XXIX Religious ceremonies in China

There are three great religions in China—Buddhism, Taoism, and the worship of Nature. The worship of Nature, in which is embodied their highest idea of an Invisible Deity, is the purest form of religion in China. Its Temples are situated in a magnificent Park in the Chinese City of Peking. The Temple of Heaven, the most imposing of the group, spherical and triple-domed, rears its proud height here and is visible from afar. Its triple dome tiled, without, in the sacred green of Nature and vaulted within in Heaven’s own blue, is surrounded by groves of century-old arbor-vitæ. In other parts of the great Park are the scarcely less splendid Temples to the Earth, to the Sun and Moon and to Agriculture, and grandest, most unique of these Temples, is that to the Invisible Deity. Its foundations are the Earth, its walls are limitless Ether, its dome Heaven’s own vault! On its great open altar this Nature worship has its culmination and reaches its highest fulfilment. This altar is the Holy of Holies, the tabernacle of the group of Temples consecrated to the worship of Nature.

There are three major religions in China—Buddhism, Taoism, and the worship of Nature. The worship of Nature, which embodies their highest concept of an Invisible Deity, is the purest form of religion in China. Its temples are located in a stunning park in the Chinese city of Beijing. The Temple of Heaven, the most impressive of the group, with its spherical, triple-domed design, rises proudly and can be seen from a distance. Its triple dome is tiled on the outside in the sacred green of Nature and vaulted inside in Heaven’s own blue, surrounded by groves of centuries-old arborvitae. In other parts of the large park are equally magnificent temples dedicated to the Earth, the Sun and Moon, and Agriculture, with the most grand and unique being the temple for the Invisible Deity. Its foundations are the Earth, its walls are boundless Ether, and its dome is Heaven’s own vault! On its great open altar, this Nature worship reaches its peak and highest fulfillment. This altar is the Holy of Holies, the tabernacle of the group of temples dedicated to the worship of Nature.

It is built in the center of a great marble-paved 246 space with the secular arbor-vitæ radiating therefrom in long concentric avenues. It is of pure white marble, round as is the Earth. The Trinity in Nature and its Infinity are symbolized in its three superposed circles. Each of the circular platforms is surrounded by an exquisitely carved balustrade and approached by flights of nine steps each, to the north, south, east, and west. The central point of the great upper circle thus represents the center of the Universe, accessible from every point of the compass.

It is located in the center of a large marble-paved 246 area, with tall arborvitae trees radiating from it in long circular paths. It is made of pure white marble, perfectly round like the Earth. The three overlapping circles symbolize the Trinity in Nature and its Infinity. Each circular platform is surrounded by a beautifully carved railing and can be accessed by sets of nine steps from the north, south, east, and west. The central point of the large upper circle represents the center of the Universe, reachable from every direction.

Here in this symbolic center of the world, in this great Temple, whose walls are Space, whose towers are Infinity, on this great triple altar, canopied with Heaven itself, the Emperor of China, “Son of Heaven,” glorifies the Invisible Deity and sacrifices for the prosperity of “the Great, Pure Kingdom” and his people. This worship of the Invisible Deity has no Priestly Hierarchy. The Emperor of China is its one High Priest. He alone is worthy, as the Son of Heaven, to perform its unique ceremonies, on its one great Altar, in its single great Temple of China.

Here in this symbolic center of the world, in this grand Temple, whose walls are Space, whose towers are Infinity, on this great triple altar, covered by Heaven itself, the Emperor of China, “Son of Heaven,” honors the Invisible Deity and offers sacrifices for the well-being of “the Great, Pure Kingdom” and his people. This worship of the Invisible Deity has no Priestly Hierarchy. The Emperor of China is its only High Priest. He alone is worthy, as the Son of Heaven, to carry out its special ceremonies, on its one great Altar, in its single grand Temple of China.

The Emperor prepares himself for the great ceremony of the semi-annual celebration on this altar by a rigorous fast of three days, spending the final night before the celebration in a vigil in the Great Park of the Nature Temples, where there is a Purifying Palace set aside for his use. This glorification of the Invisible Deity at the summer and winter solstices is the most solemn act performed by the Emperor in his quality of Son of Heaven.

The Emperor gets ready for the major ceremony of the biannual celebration at this altar by fasting for three days and spending the night before the event in a vigil in the Great Park of the Nature Temples, where there’s a Purifying Palace just for him. This honoring of the Invisible Deity during the summer and winter solstices is the most serious duty the Emperor performs as the Son of Heaven.

TEMPLE OF HEAVEN—PEKING

Temple of Heaven—Beijing

The Emperor is not only the one High Priest worthy to sacrifice on the great altars to the Invisible 247 Deity, the Priestly Hierarchy of the whole of this Cult of Nature is vested in his Sacred Person. He alone offers sacrifices in the Temples of Heaven and the other Great Temples, at times set aside in the Book of Rites, and on special occasions. When famine devastates the land, when drought or any other National Calamity is visited upon the Empire, the Emperor prays in these Temples for its cessation, for he is not only the High Priest, but as “Son of Heaven” is the expiator for the afflictions visited upon his people by Heaven, and he publicly holds himself responsible for the misfortunes of the Empire. According to the Book of Rites, he says in time of trouble, “I will purify myself by sacrifice that these calamities may be lifted from the Empire and the people. I alone am responsible.”

The Emperor is not just the one High Priest who can make sacrifices on the grand altars to the Invisible Deity; the entire authority of this Nature Cult rests on his Sacred Person. He alone performs sacrifices in the Temples of Heaven and other Great Temples, as specified in the Book of Rites, during special occasions. When famine hits the land, or when drought or any other National Calamity strikes the Empire, the Emperor prays in these Temples for relief, as he is not only the High Priest but also the "Son of Heaven," taking on the responsibility for the hardships faced by his people, publicly declaring himself accountable for the Empire's misfortunes. According to the Book of Rites, he states in times of trouble, “I will purify myself through sacrifice so that these calamities may be removed from the Empire and the people. I alone am responsible.”

The great semi-annual celebration to the Invisible Deity is not only the most solemn of the religious rites the Emperor performs; it is at the same time the most formal of his official acts as ruler of the Great Empire. He prepares himself, by fasting and subduing the body, for the religious rite; for the official ceremony as Emperor of China, he is accompanied by all his ministers and the highest nobles of the land and surrounded by splendid pomp and Imperial pageantry.

The grand biannual celebration for the Invisible Deity is not just the most serious of the religious rituals the Emperor carries out; it’s also the most formal of his official duties as the ruler of the Great Empire. He gets ready by fasting and disciplining his body for the religious rite. During the official ceremony as Emperor of China, he is joined by all his ministers and the highest-ranking nobles from the land, surrounded by lavish splendor and Imperial pageantry.

Though in his triple quality of Emperor, High Priest, and Expiator, he personally sacrifices only in the great Temples to Nature the Emperor has all the religions of his Empire under his protection and is their nominal Head. He assists indiscriminately at Buddhist or Taoist ceremonies, and encourages with 248 impartiality both cults. But these religions have priestly hierarchies, and complicated Rituals, and the Emperor is only the “Ex-officio” Head and High Priest. All the festivals and fasts of both are celebrated in the Palace.

Though in his role as Emperor, High Priest, and Expiator, he only performs sacrifices in the great Temples to Nature, the Emperor has all the religions of his Empire under his protection and is their nominal Head. He attends Buddhist or Taoist ceremonies without preference and supports both cults equally. However, these religions have their own priestly hierarchies and complex rituals, and the Emperor is merely the “Ex-officio” Head and High Priest. All the festivals and fasts of both are celebrated in the Palace. 248

The Chinese are not a religious people, though so moral a race. They are rather followers of a philosophy than members of religious bodies. The two most popular religions of China, Buddhism and Taoism, have become more or less outward forms. They are empty shells which may once have contained the Spirit, but have now become mere conventional representations of ancient rites. The Chinese people are really Confucians, and Confucianism is a system of ethics, a philosophy rather than a religion. Whether they be Buddhists or Taoists, they are all followers of Confucius, and live by the rules the Great Sage has laid down for them. The doctrines of Buddha and Laotze have become so incrusted with error in China as to afford no moral or ideal help to their followers. The Chinese participate indiscriminately in either of these religious rites, many of which have become mere outward spectacular ceremonies, where there is a great deal of display and much form, but very little real worship. They get all their moral support from the writings of Confucius and all their ideals from communion with Nature. They are really philosophers and worshipers of Nature, and the Emperor’s semi-annual sacrifice on the altar of Heaven and those at the Temples of Nature typify the real worship of the people.

The Chinese are not particularly religious people, even though they are a very moral race. They are more followers of a philosophy than members of religious organizations. The two most popular religions in China, Buddhism and Taoism, have become mostly outward forms. They are empty shells that may have once held spiritual significance but now serve as conventional representations of ancient rituals. The Chinese people primarily follow Confucianism, which is an ethical system and a philosophy rather than a religion. Whether they identify as Buddhists or Taoists, they all adhere to Confucius’s teachings and live by the principles he established. The teachings of Buddha and Laozi in China have become so mixed with various inaccuracies that they offer little moral or ideal guidance to their followers. The Chinese participate in the rituals of either religion without distinction, many of which have turned into mere theatrical ceremonies that involve a lot of show and formality but very little genuine worship. They derive their moral guidance from Confucius’s writings and their ideals from a connection with Nature. They are truly philosophers and Nature worshipers, and the Emperor’s semi-annual sacrifices at the altar of Heaven and those at the Temples of Nature symbolize the authentic worship of the people.

All the religious rites in China have their origin in, or are in celebration of, some natural phenomenon 249 or some periodical event in Nature. They celebrate the summer and winter solstices, the equinoxes, the New Year, the awakening of spring, when the sap (life-giving element) begins to mount. The Harvest Moon is the time of the going to rest of this life-giving element. Their complicated ceremonial is but the crystallization of some simple observance of Nature’s fundamental laws. This ceremonial has been kept alive all these centuries, because of the vivifying spark of Nature which enkindled them. These rites are now observed without a thought of their origin, but Nature still remains their creative force. In spite of their conventions, the Chinese have kept very near to Nature, and I believe this is the secret of their wonderful vitality. They have been overrun and conquered by many different races, and their assimilation of these conquerors is one of the most astonishing things in the ethnic study of this wonderful race.

All the religious rituals in China originate from or celebrate some natural phenomenon or recurring event in Nature. They honor the summer and winter solstices, the equinoxes, the New Year, and the arrival of spring, when the sap (the life-giving element) starts to rise. The Harvest Moon marks the time when this life-giving element begins to rest. Their intricate ceremonies are just the culmination of some simple observations of Nature’s fundamental laws. These traditions have endured over the centuries because of the vibrant energy of Nature that inspired them. Nowadays, these rites are performed without consideration of their origins, but Nature continues to be their creative force. Despite their customs, the Chinese have remained closely connected to Nature, and I believe this is the key to their incredible vitality. They have been invaded and conquered by many different groups, and their ability to assimilate these conquerors is one of the most remarkable aspects of the ethnic study of this extraordinary culture. 249

No conquering race has ever changed the Chinese. Tartars, Mongols, Manchus have all passed and become amalgamated with them. Their conquerors have adopted the Chinese philosophy and religion, their customs and habits, and even their system of government. And they have never been able to impose any really new system of government upon the Chinese.

No conquering race has ever changed the Chinese. Tartars, Mongols, and Manchus have all come and blended in with them. Their conquerors have adopted Chinese philosophy and religion, their customs and habits, and even their system of government. They have never managed to impose any truly new system of government on the Chinese.

These founders of Dynasties in China have all been “warriors bold” and reckless marauders with little philosophy and no literature to speak of. When the Manchus, the last of these conquerors, founders of the present Dynasty, established themselves in Peking, in 1646, they were a wild and warlike race. They, like all the other conquerors of China, conciliated their 250 vanquished foes by all sorts of concessions, and they now rule by Chinese laws, and to-day are hardly distinguishable from the Chinese. They have never made, any more than the other conquerors, the slightest impress upon this calm and passive race; and they have become Chinese. “To-day the Emperor Kwang-Hsu is recognized as one of the best Chinamen in China.” The Manchu men to-day wear Chinese dress. The Emperor, himself, shaves his head and wears the queue, the one visible sign of degradation that is said to have been imposed upon the Chinese at the time of the conquest. Oh! Irony of fate!

The founders of dynasties in China have all been “bold warriors” and reckless raiders with little philosophy and barely any literature to show for it. When the Manchus, the last of these conquerors and founders of the current Dynasty, settled in Peking in 1646, they were a fierce and warlike group. Like all the other conquerors of China, they won over their defeated enemies with various concessions, and now they govern using Chinese laws, to the point where they are hardly distinguishable from the Chinese people. They have never made, just like the other conquerors, any noticeable impact on this calm and passive population; instead, they have become Chinese. “Today, Emperor Kwang-Hsu is acknowledged as one of the best Chinese citizens in China.” The Manchu men now wear Chinese clothing. The Emperor himself shaves his head and sports the queue, the one visible mark of humiliation that is said to have been imposed on the Chinese during the conquest. Oh, the irony of fate! 250

The Manchus are now as quiet and peaceful a race as the Chinese themselves. They dread war. They live by the laws of Confucius. Though not a race of thinkers or philosophers, they have come to have the same ideals as the Chinese, and this, without the natural amalgamation brought about by inter-marriage, for it is only within the last few years that the Throne has issued an edict, allowing inter-marriage between the Chinese and Manchu, and even, with this edict, up to this time there has been very little mixture, by marriage, of the races. The Chinese seem easily led and conquered, but their national vitality is very vigorous, and has kept them pure in racial characteristics after their thousands of years of national existence.

The Manchus are now as quiet and peaceful as the Chinese. They fear war. They live by Confucian principles. Although they’re not a nation of thinkers or philosophers, they share the same ideals as the Chinese, and this is without the natural blending that comes from inter-marriage, since it’s only in the last few years that the Throne has allowed inter-marriage between the Chinese and Manchus. Even with this decree, there has been very little mixing of the two races through marriage. The Chinese seem easily led and conquered, but their national vitality is strong, and it has kept them distinct in racial characteristics after thousands of years of existence.

ALTAR TO THE INVISIBLE DEITY

Altar to the unseen god

In the Park of the Temple of Heaven

The Festival of the Harvest Moon, which typifies the season when the life-giving element in Nature goes to rest for the Winter, I have already described. It is intermixed with legends and practices that destroy its original meaning; but the ceremony to the awakening 251 of Spring has not departed from its original intention, and is simpler and nearer Nature. The awakening of Spring, the day when the sap is supposed to stir from its long sleep and to feel the first throes of renewed life, is commemorated in a pretty, homely ceremony at the Palace. The radish and young shoots of lettuce, the first vegetables to receive the benefit of the rising sap, are presented on a silver salver to Her Majesty by a kneeling eunuch. She partakes of them, and then gives them to the young Empress and Ladies to taste of. When Her Majesty raises the first radish to her lips, the young Empress, Princesses, and Ladies assembled in her Throne-room, repeat the wish for Imperial happiness, synonymous with “National prosperity.” This wish is echoed by the high attendants in the ante-chamber, and reëchoed by the eunuchs kneeling in the courts without, and still echoed and reëchoed by every inmate of the Palace, until the waves of sound reach to the outer walls. Then Her Majesty makes a wish that the sap may rise in such abundance as to produce a fruitful season, that all the people of the Great Empire may enjoy peace and plenty.

The Harvest Moon Festival marks the time when nature prepares for winter. I’ve described it before. It has legends and customs that overshadow its original meaning, but the ceremony for welcoming Spring has stayed true to its purpose and feels more connected to nature. The celebration of Spring, the day when sap is believed to wake from its long slumber and feel the first signs of new life, takes place in a lovely, simple ceremony at the Palace. Fresh radishes and young lettuce shoots, the first vegetables to benefit from the rising sap, are presented on a silver tray to Her Majesty by a kneeling eunuch. She tastes them and then hands them off to the young Empress and the ladies to try. When Her Majesty raises the first radish to her lips, the young Empress, Princesses, and ladies gathered in her Throne-room share a blessing for Imperial happiness, which means "National prosperity." This blessing is echoed by the high attendants in the ante-chamber, repeated by the eunuchs kneeling outside in the courtyard, and continues to resonate with everyone in the Palace until the sound reaches the outer walls. Then, Her Majesty makes a wish for the sap to rise abundantly to ensure a fruitful season and for all the people of the Great Empire to enjoy peace and plenty.

Thus are these first fruits of the awakening Spring partaken of with a simple ceremony of praise and thanksgiving. Thus are these homely plants consecrated with wishes made for the good of the country and the happiness of its rulers. It was to me a beautiful ceremony, so simple that it brought these people with all their conventions and all their forms very near the heart itself of Nature.

Thus, these first signs of the awakening Spring are celebrated with a simple ceremony of praise and gratitude. These humble plants are honored with wishes for the well-being of the country and the happiness of its leaders. To me, it was a beautiful ceremony, so straightforward that it brought these people, with all their customs and traditions, very close to the heart of Nature itself.

The annual plowing of a furrow and sowing of the 252 first seeds of the year by the Emperor, the planting of a mulberry tree (to nourish the silkworms) by the Empress, are other touches of Nature which show how near the Chinese are to the heart of things. One of the honorary offices which is considered a great mark of Imperial favor, and which the highest ladies of the land receive with reverent gratitude, is to be appointed “Guardian of the Cocoons”; for the silk industry is one of the great sources of National prosperity in China. These ladies of high degree, guardians of the cocoons, go in annual pilgrimage to the mulberry groves, where the cocoons flourish, to make sacrifices and prayers for the health and growth of the cocoon. Being so near to Nature, the Chinese are naturally a pastoral people, a race of agriculturists; and agriculture, being thus honored by the Sacred Persons of Their Majesties, becomes a lofty ideal. Labor, which the Emperor publicly performs, loses all taint and grows into an Inspiration.

The annual plowing of a furrow and sowing of the 252 first seeds of the year by the Emperor, along with the Empress planting a mulberry tree (to support the silkworms), are examples of how connected the Chinese people are to nature. One prestigious honorary position, seen as a significant sign of Imperial favor, is the appointment of “Guardian of the Cocoons,” which the highest-ranking women in the land accept with deep gratitude. The silk industry is one of the major sources of national prosperity in China. These esteemed women, as guardians of the cocoons, make an annual pilgrimage to the mulberry groves, where the cocoons thrive, to offer sacrifices and prayers for the well-being and growth of the cocoons. Being so close to nature, the Chinese have a pastoral identity and are predominantly agriculturists; thus, agriculture is elevated to a noble ideal due to the reverence shown by the Royalty. The labor that the Emperor publicly engages in is stripped of any stigma and transforms into a source of inspiration.

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CHAPTER XXX Her Majesty the Empress Dowager

The current story that the Empress Dowager was a slave-girl and is of low origin is absolutely false. Her Majesty is the daughter of a Lieutenant-General of the Manchu forces, a position only attainable by members of the highest Manchu nobility. She belongs to the family of the White Banner, second only to that of the Yellow Banner, of which the Emperor of China, himself, is the head. At the time of the conquest of China by the Manchus, there was a fierce struggle between these two powerful families for the supremacy, and the Yellow Banner finally carried the day. The Empress Dowager was brought up with great care and highly educated by her father, a noble of great acquirements.

The story that the Empress Dowager was a slave girl from a low background is completely untrue. Her Majesty is the daughter of a Lieutenant-General in the Manchu forces, a rank only attainable by those from the highest Manchu nobility. She comes from the White Banner family, which is second only to the Yellow Banner family, led by the Emperor of China himself. During the Manchu conquest of China, there was an intense rivalry between these two powerful families for dominance, and the Yellow Banner ultimately emerged victorious. The Empress Dowager was raised with great care and received an excellent education from her father, a noble with considerable knowledge.

Like all young Manchu ladies of rank, she went to the Palace for presentation to the then Empress and Empress Dowager between the ages of seventeen and twenty. She immediately attracted them by her cleverness and wit, as well as by her charm and beauty, and, being of an honorable and high Manchu family, was at once considered as a possible wife for the Emperor. On presentation to the Emperor, she met also with his approval and was then chosen as one 254 of the wives and given her establishment at Court. She was the fifth chosen, and hence ranked fifth on her marriage and was taken precedence of by the four others who were married before she was.

Like all young Manchu ladies of rank, she went to the Palace for an audience with the Empress and Empress Dowager between the ages of seventeen and twenty. She immediately impressed them with her intelligence and wit, as well as her charm and beauty. Coming from a respected and prominent Manchu family, she was quickly seen as a potential wife for the Emperor. When she was presented to the Emperor, he also approved of her, and she was chosen as one 254 of the wives and given her position at Court. She was the fifth wife selected, so she ranked fifth after her marriage and was preceded by the four others who married before her.

She became at once a favorite, both with the Dowager Empress and Empress, the first wife, as well as with the Emperor. She soon took precedence over the wife just over her and became fourth wife, for secondary wives can mount in degree. A brilliant woman, with exceptional qualities, takes her place in a Chinese family, as in the world, above that of her less endowed sister, unless this latter should be the first wife. Her place can never be taken, except in case of her death. The first wife of the Emperor Hsien-Feng died two months before he came to the Throne and was never Empress. There were two years of mourning, prescribed by the rites, during which time there was no official Empress. Then the first of his secondary wives was made Empress, and she it was who was the first wife when the present Empress Dowager went into the Palace as fifth wife.

She quickly became a favorite of both the Dowager Empress and the Empress, the first wife, as well as the Emperor. She soon took precedence over the wife just above her and became the fourth wife, since secondary wives can rise in rank. A brilliant woman, with exceptional qualities, takes her place in a Chinese family, just like in the world, above that of her less gifted sister, unless the latter is the first wife. Her position can never be taken, except in the event of her death. The first wife of Emperor Hsien-Feng passed away two months before he ascended to the throne and was never Empress. There were two years of mourning, as prescribed by the rites, during which time there was no official Empress. Then the first of his secondary wives was made Empress, and she was the first wife when the current Empress Dowager entered the Palace as the fifth wife.

Two years after her marriage, she gave birth to a son, and five years later, on the death of his father, this son became the Emperor Tung-Chih; the young mother, together with the Empress, the first wife, who had adopted him, were given the title of “Dowager Empress.” They were appointed Co-Regents for the boy Emperor, and bore, respectively, the titles of Empress of the Eastern Palace and Empress of the Western Palace, with equal rank and power. She of the Eastern Palace was a woman of quiet tastes, given to literary pursuits, with none of the remarkable 255 executive ability of her Co-Regent, the Empress of the Western Palace, the great Tze-Hsi, who still rules the destiny of China. Though so different, they lived amicably together, thoroughly appreciated each other’s qualities, and are said to have had a sincere affection for each other, which never weakened during the whole of their long association, first as wives of the Emperor Hsien-Feng, then as Regents for his son, and afterward as Regents for the present Emperor Kwang-Hsu. The amicable relations of these two Empresses were only severed by the death of the Empress of the Eastern Palace in 1881, when posthumous honors were lavished upon her by the present Empress Dowager.

Two years after her marriage, she had a son, and five years later, when his father died, this son became Emperor Tung-Chih. The young mother, along with the first wife who had adopted him, was given the title “Dowager Empress.” They were appointed Co-Regents for the boy Emperor, holding the titles of Empress of the Eastern Palace and Empress of the Western Palace, both with equal rank and power. The Empress of the Eastern Palace was a woman of quiet tastes, focused on literary pursuits, lacking the remarkable leadership skills of her Co-Regent, the Empress of the Western Palace, the powerful Tze-Hsi, who continues to shape China's future. Despite their differences, they lived together peacefully, genuinely valuing each other's strengths, and reportedly had a deep affection for each other that never faded throughout their long connection, first as wives of Emperor Hsien-Feng, then as Regents for his son, and later as Regents for the current Emperor Kwang-Hsu. The friendly relationship between these two Empresses lasted until the death of the Empress of the Eastern Palace in 1881, when the current Empress Dowager honored her memory with posthumous accolades. 255

China was passing through troublous times when the young Tung-Chih, son of the Empress Dowager, came to the Throne. His father, the Emperor Hsien-Feng died at Jehol, far from Peking, where the Court had gone at the approach of the foreigners, who were aiding in quelling the Taiping rebellion. The times were critical. The integrity of China, the future, even, of the Empire, depended upon the action of its ministers and its rulers at this crisis. In the absence of the Court from Peking, some reactionary ministers, strongly anti-foreign, claimed they had been appointed by the late Emperor as Regents for young Tung-Chih. Had his mother and adopted mother, the two Empress Dowagers, joined them, anarchy might have followed; and, at least, there would have been serious foreign complications, for this anti-foreign party would never have come to terms with the foreigners, who were then in Peking. It was 256 most important for the ruling Power, that is, the party which should become Regents, to have the support of the Empresses who held the Sacred Person of the young Emperor, under their care. They were approached by both parties. The young Empress of the Western Palace, absolutely unversed in Statecraft, and, up to that time, ignorant of all that was passing outside the Palace walls, showed wonderful perspicacity and rare judgment in her keen grasp of the situation at this time. She repudiated the anti-foreign party and joined forces with Prince Kung, whose name was then synonymous with Progress in China—an enlightened Prince and the most pro-foreign of all the Imperial Family—and she and the first Empress were appointed Regents for the young Emperor. Prince Kung was the Minister who, thanks to this coöperation of the Empress of the Western Palace, carried the negotiations with France and England to a successful conclusion.

China was going through tough times when the young Tung-Chih, son of the Empress Dowager, ascended the throne. His father, Emperor Hsien-Feng, died at Jehol, far from Beijing, where the court had moved due to the presence of foreigners who were helping to suppress the Taiping rebellion. The situation was critical. The stability and future of China depended on the actions of its ministers and leaders during this crisis. With the court away from Beijing, some reactionary ministers, strongly opposed to foreign influence, claimed they had been appointed as Regents for young Tung-Chih by the deceased Emperor. If his mother and adopted mother, the two Empress Dowagers, had sided with them, chaos might have ensued; at the very least, there would have been serious foreign issues, as this anti-foreign faction would never have made peace with the foreigners already in Beijing. It was crucial for the ruling power, that is, the faction that would become Regents, to have the support of the Empresses who were guarding the young Emperor. Both sides attempted to win them over. The young Empress of the Western Palace, who was completely inexperienced in governance and until then unaware of the events outside the palace, displayed remarkable insight and judgment in understanding the situation. She rejected the anti-foreign faction and allied with Prince Kung, who was known for his progressive views in China and was the most pro-foreign member of the Imperial Family. She and the first Empress were appointed Regents for the young Emperor. Prince Kung was the minister who, due to the cooperation of the Empress of the Western Palace, successfully carried out negotiations with France and England. 256

This first political act of the young Empress of the Western Palace brought her into immediate notice, and showed the progressive statesmen of China that they had an intelligent aid in her. The Grand Council and the Princes of the Imperial Family at once recognized her superior ability and they have always stanchly supported her throughout her career and remained true to her in all vicissitudes. In fact, she has known how to inspire loyalty and great devotion in all by whom she has been surrounded.

This first political move by the young Empress of the Western Palace quickly caught everyone's attention and demonstrated to the forward-thinking leaders of China that she was a smart ally. The Grand Council and the Princes of the Imperial Family immediately recognized her exceptional skills, and they have consistently backed her throughout her career, remaining loyal to her through all challenges. In fact, she has managed to inspire loyalty and deep devotion in everyone around her.

It was through her wonderful grasp of the situation at this time and the great executive ability she showed later, that the two Empresses brought the Emperor 257 Tung-Chih through his minority, and when he began to reign in his eighteenth year, internal troubles had been quelled and foreign complications avoided, and China was in a much more settled and prosperous condition than when he came to the Throne, twelve years before.

It was her incredible understanding of the situation at that time and the impressive leadership skills she demonstrated later that allowed the two Empresses to guide Emperor Tung-Chih through his youth. By the time he started his reign at eighteen, internal conflicts had been resolved, foreign issues had been sidestepped, and China was in a much more stable and prosperous state than it had been when he ascended to the throne twelve years earlier. 257

There was an interval of but two years in their long Regency for the two Emperors, when the Emperor Tung-Chih, having reached his majority, reigned. The death of her son, the Emperor, at the early age of twenty, after only two years of actual reigning, was a dreadful blow to the Empress of the Western Palace. She had, however, but a short time for grief. With heart bleeding and sore, she was obliged almost immediately to again assume the duties of Co-Regent with the Empress of the Eastern Palace, for her nephew and adopted son, the young Emperor Kwang-Hsu. The two Empresses had then another boy Emperor only five years old, to protect, prepare for reigning, and to govern for.

There was just a two-year gap in their long Regency for the two Emperors when Emperor Tung-Chih, having come of age, took the throne. The death of her son, the Emperor, at just twenty years old, after only two years of actual ruling, was a terrible blow to the Empress of the Western Palace. However, she had very little time to mourn. With a heavy heart, she had to quickly take up her responsibilities again as Co-Regent alongside the Empress of the Eastern Palace, for her nephew and adopted son, the young Emperor Kwang-Hsu. The two Empresses then had another young Emperor, only five years old, to protect, prepare for ruling, and govern for.

One has only to be cognizant of events in China since the Dowager Empress Tze-Hsi has ruled, to know the facts of her government. When she took up the Regency, China was seething with rebellion and there were foreign complications, requiring great tact and keen intelligence. She has steered the ship of State between the two extremes, though she has sometimes run it against the rocks of Scylla in trying to avoid the whirlpool of Charybdis, and she has always been a “moderate” in her political course. China having, for so many centuries, had no relations with foreign powers, her statesmen being so absolutely unversed in modern 258 methods of diplomacy, has not made a brilliant record in her foreign relations, and she has so frequently been made the dupe of European diplomacy, it is not wonderful China has tried to defend herself by duplicity: using what she thought the same methods she saw were so efficacious in the hands of Europeans.

One only needs to be aware of what’s been happening in China since Dowager Empress Tze-Hsi took power to understand the reality of her rule. When she assumed the Regency, China was in turmoil, dealing with rebellions and foreign issues that required great diplomacy and sharp wit. She has navigated the country through these extremes, yet at times she has hit the rocks while trying to dodge the dangers, and she has always taken a “moderate” approach in her politics. Having not engaged with foreign powers for centuries, China's leaders were completely inexperienced in modern diplomatic practices, resulting in a poor track record in foreign relations. As a result, China has often fallen victim to European tactics, so it’s not surprising that she has tried to protect herself with deception, using methods she observed were effective in the hands of Europeans. 258

When the Empress Dowager gave up the reins of government to the Emperor Kwang-Hsu, in the year 1889, after twenty-eight years of Regency, the Great Empire was at that time in a prosperous condition. Its ports had been opened to foreign trade, a fine Customs organization had been established upon a firm basis, and China was at peace with the world.

When the Empress Dowager handed over control of the government to Emperor Kwang-Hsu in 1889, after twenty-eight years of being in charge, the Great Empire was thriving. Its ports were open to foreign trade, a strong Customs system was in place, and China was at peace with the world.

The first part of the young Emperor’s reign was uneventful. He was directed in most things by his ministers, and followed the moderate policy laid down by the Empress Dowager. He seemed to have no special views of his own and no designs of progress for China. Until the war with Japan with reference to the suzerainty of Corea, in 1894, he was a passive figurehead. The Japanese victories changed all this. Their victory gave China one of her most humiliating lessons; for the Chinese, who had given Japan the nucleus of its literature, its art and architecture, looked down upon the Japanese as a race of imitators and had a deep-seated contempt for them as a nation. This victory almost awoke the passive leviathan—that is, China—from its long sleep of national self-content. The young Emperor, smarting under this galling defeat, felt that China had only been conquered by Japan’s use of modern methods of warfare and determined on sweeping reforms in the government. Full of youthful enthusiasm, 259 he felt he could put the Great Empire on the road to progress and wished to institute sweeping reforms in all departments. He immediately abandoned the moderate policy of the Regency and surrounded himself by a number of hot-headed, self-seeking reformers, each pushing some new method of reform. The reformers wished, at one fell swoop, to change the system of education, the system of government—in fact to make such sweeping changes that this conservative nation would have risen in a mass had they been carried out. Besides the Radicals, who were the reform party, there were also a number of discontents among the ultra-Conservatives, who, seeing the Emperor’s anxiety and desire for change, began to push forward certain schemes of their own. Finally, the ultra-conservatives and reactionaries decided they would join forces with the Radicals, hoping by so doing to change the National policy and the then existing state of government. In the turmoil that would follow this upheaval, each hoped to carry out his own designs, quite different in scope. Each party made the Emperor believe that progress was its aim. The coalition of these two diametrically opposed parties was for the purpose of persuading the Emperor to depart from the moderate opportunist policy which had been the motive power of the Empress Dowager’s régime. The adherents of the Reform party were opposed to this moderate policy because it was too conservative. Those of the Reactionaries objected to it because it was too progressive. The power of the central government vested in the young Emperor seemed likely to be crushed between these two self-seeking factions. 260 China’s wisest statesmen saw the peril, sought the Empress Dowager, beseeched her to return from her retirement and, for the salvation of China, to give the Empire again the benefit of her wise counsels. When she realized the danger she returned. Such is the ascendancy of the “ancestor” in China, the Emperor could not refuse to accept the counsel of his August Ancestress, thus forced upon him. He issued an edict in which he recalled “that Her Majesty the Empress Dowager has on two occasions taken the reins of government, with great success, at most critical times. In all she has done, Her Majesty has been moved by a deep regard for the welfare of the Empire. I have implored Her Majesty to be graciously pleased to advise me in government, and I have received her assent.” The Emperor’s authority was not wrested from him—he was not deposed. He still remained the Emperor of China; but the Empress Dowager’s counsels were forced upon him, he could not but accept them, and she became once more the real Ruler of China. This was what foreigners call the “coup d’état” of 1898.

The early years of the young Emperor’s reign were pretty uneventful. He was mostly guided by his ministers and followed the moderate policies set by the Empress Dowager. He didn’t seem to have any strong opinions of his own or plans for China’s progress. That changed with the war against Japan over the control of Korea in 1894, where he played a passive role. The Japanese victories transformed everything. This defeat served China one of its most humiliating lessons; the Chinese, who had shared their literature, art, and architecture with Japan, looked down on the Japanese as mere imitators and held a deep-seated contempt for them as a nation. This defeat almost stirred the long-dormant giant—China—from its comfortable state of complacency. The young Emperor, stung by this humiliating loss, realized that China had been defeated simply because Japan employed modern warfare tactics, which motivated him to seek sweeping reforms in the government. Filled with youthful enthusiasm, 259 he believed he could lead the Great Empire toward progress and aimed to implement extensive reforms across all areas. He immediately rejected the moderate approach of the Regency and surrounded himself with numerous fiery reformers, each advocating for their own new methods. These reformers wanted to dramatically overhaul the education system and the government—essentially proposing such radical changes that the conservative nation would have risen up en masse had they been implemented. Alongside the Radicals, who made up the reform party, there were also discontented members among the ultra-Conservatives, who, noticing the Emperor’s eagerness for change, began promoting their own ideas. Ultimately, the ultra-conservatives and reactionaries decided to team up with the Radicals, hoping to alter the national policy and change the current government structure. In the chaos that would ensue, each group hoped to pursue their own interests, which were quite different from one another. Each faction convinced the Emperor that progress was their primary goal. The partnership of these two completely opposing groups aimed to persuade the Emperor to abandon the moderate opportunist policy that had been the driving force behind the Empress Dowager’s reign. The Reform party opposed this moderate policy as too conservative, while the Reactionaries opposed it as too progressive. The young Emperor’s central authority appeared likely to be squeezed between these two self-serving factions. 260 China’s most astute statesmen recognized the danger, sought out the Empress Dowager, and begged her to return from her retirement for the sake of China’s survival and to lend the Empire her wise counsel once again. Once she understood the threat, she returned. Given the immense respect for the “ancestor” in China, the Emperor couldn’t refuse the advice of his esteemed Ancestress, which was essentially thrust upon him. He issued an edict recalling, “Her Majesty the Empress Dowager has successfully taken the reins of government twice during critical periods. Everything she has done has stemmed from a deep respect for the Empire’s welfare. I have asked her to kindly advise me in governance, and she has agreed.” The Emperor's authority wasn't taken away from him—he wasn't deposed. He remained the Emperor of China, but the Empress Dowager’s advice was imposed on him, and he had no choice but to accept it. Thus, she became the real ruler of China once more. This event is what foreigners refer to as the “coup d’état” of 1898.

Her Majesty’s keenness of insight and fine judgment (as far as Chinese questions are concerned), served her well again in this crisis. She dismissed not only the self-seeking Radicals, but the self-seeking ultra-Conservatives. Such of the Reformers as were caught were tried, convicted of treason, summarily and cruelly punished. Those who escaped, among them Kang-Yu-Wei, the ringleader of the Reformers, were outlawed. The leader of the ultra-Conservatives, the Emperor’s tutor, was not beheaded, but was sent into exile; for a tutor in China occupies almost the 261 position of a parent to his pupil, and this position exempted him from more cruel punishment. These summary proceedings on the part of the Moderates, led by Her Majesty, were considered by the foreigners, who were altogether in sympathy with the Reformers, as a reversion to anti-progress ideas, and hence were considered anti-foreign. It certainly was an “anti-reform” movement that caused the “coup d’état” of 1898, but had the adherents of the so-called reformer Kang-Yu-Wei, whose subsequent career has proven how self-seeking he was, carried the day; had his sweeping measures been inaugurated, it might have brought China into a state of anarchy and would certainly have been most pernicious to the Nation, for she was not ready for the drastic measures the Reformers advocated, and the great mass of the people would have rebelled against them.

Her Majesty’s sharp insight and sound judgment regarding Chinese issues served her well again during this crisis. She dismissed not only the self-serving Radicals but also the self-serving ultra-Conservatives. Those Reformers who were caught were tried, convicted of treason, and punished quickly and harshly. Those who escaped, including Kang-Yu-Wei, the leader of the Reformers, were declared outlaws. The leader of the ultra-Conservatives, the Emperor’s tutor, was not beheaded but was exiled; in China, a tutor holds a position similar to that of a parent to their pupil, which protected him from harsher punishment. These swift actions by the Moderates, led by Her Majesty, were viewed by foreigners—who generally supported the Reformers—as a return to anti-progress attitudes, and therefore seen as anti-foreign. It was certainly an "anti-reform" movement that led to the "coup d’état" of 1898, but had the supporters of the so-called reformer Kang-Yu-Wei, whose later actions revealed his self-interest, prevailed; had his sweeping proposals been put into effect, it could have plunged China into chaos and would have been extremely harmful to the Nation, as the country was not ready for the radical changes the Reformers pushed for, and the vast majority of the people would have rebelled against them.

The “coup d’état” and the consequent check upon the Emperor’s dreams of progress was a great blow to him. He was not only chagrined at the failure of his efforts for reform, by which he hoped to show the world that China still counted as a power and to retaliate upon Japan, but he was also profoundly discouraged when he discovered the real nature and designs of his chosen instruments. He saw that he had been over-sanguine in hoping to realize at once his enthusiastic dreams for the immediate rehabilitation of China’s prestige; he saw that his ardent desire for progress was not enough, and that to hope to reform in a few years the century-old traditions of his most conservative people was but the wild irrealizable dream of youth, and absolutely impracticable. Though he 262 knew he had been led away by his wishes for reform to expect the impossible, the disappointment was none the less severe and was most depressing to his sensitive nature. The reaction took place. His never-too-strong constitution broke down under the strain, and this breaking down of his health lent color to the reports, which were immediately circulated among Her Majesty’s enemies as well as among the foreigners, that the Empress Dowager was trying to kill the Emperor! She was reported to have imprisoned him, was said to be trying to poison him at one time and at another to starve him to death—the nephew she had brought up through a delicate boyhood and whom she cherished as her own son! Time has shown the truth of these reports, for, had she so desired, she would have had no difficulty in accomplishing his death. She had any number of instruments at her hand, fanatically loyal to her and ready to carry out any of her wishes.

The coup and the resulting setback to the Emperor’s hopes for progress hit him hard. He was not only frustrated by the failure of his reform efforts, which he believed would demonstrate that China was still a significant power and retaliate against Japan, but he was also deeply disheartened when he learned the true nature and intentions of those he had trusted. He realized he had been overly optimistic in thinking he could quickly achieve his ambitious dreams for restoring China’s status; he saw that his strong desire for progress was not enough, and that trying to change the deep-seated traditions of his conservative people in just a few years was simply a naive, unrealistic dream. 262 Even though he understood he had been misguided by his reform wishes in expecting the impossible, the disappointment was still deeply painful and discouraging for him. He suffered a setback. His already fragile health collapsed under the pressure, and this decline in his health fueled rumors, quickly spread among both the Empress Dowager’s enemies and foreigners, that she was trying to kill the Emperor! It was said that she had imprisoned him and was attempting to poison him at one moment and then starve him at another—the nephew she had raised with care and cherished as her own son! Time has revealed the truth behind these rumors; had she truly wanted to harm him, she would have found it easy to do so. She had numerous loyal supporters ready to carry out any of her commands.

She still “assists” the Emperor in ruling; and, according to Chinese tradition, she, being his “ancestor,” must always take the first place. She sits upon the Throne, he upon a chair at her side. It would be improper, according to all Chinese law, were it otherwise. The foreigners speak of the Empress Dowager forcing the Emperor to stand in her presence and to sit upon a stool while she occupies the Throne. It is not Her Majesty who forces him to do this, it is an immutable thousand-year-old tradition in China that a son must take a lower place than his parent in his presence, be he Emperor or peasant. The Empress Dowager still reigns. The times are still too troublous 263 for her to withdraw her experience from the councils of State, and though longing for the quiet and rest so necessary to a woman of her age, and though really anxious to retire, she feels the time has not yet come.

She still "helps" the Emperor rule, and according to Chinese tradition, since she is his "ancestor," she must always take the leading position. She sits on the Throne while he sits in a chair beside her. It would be inappropriate by all Chinese law for it to be any other way. Foreigners claim that the Empress Dowager makes the Emperor stand in her presence and sit on a stool while she is on the Throne. It's not Her Majesty who makes him do this; it's an unchangeable, thousand-year-old tradition in China that a son must take a lower position than his parent when they are together, whether he's an Emperor or a peasant. The Empress Dowager still rules. The times are still too turbulent for her to step away from the councils of State, and although she yearns for the peace and rest necessary for someone her age, and genuinely wants to retire, she believes the time isn't right yet.

The Empress Dowager, having crushed the Reformers, and reseated herself upon the Throne, was, from the time of the “coup d’état,” considered to be anti-foreign and responsible for all the attacks upon foreigners by ignorant Chinese that took place after that event. When, only two years after the “coup d’état,” the secret society of the Boxers began their sanguinary attacks upon the foreigners, Her Majesty was considered responsible for them, was looked upon as aiding and abetting the Boxers; and, by the foreigners at least, she was considered to be the high priestess if not the originator of the order. But the Boxer movement had no such high origin. It started among the people, the humble people, in the Northern provinces of China, far from the Capital, and had been in existence for a number of years before the attack upon the Legations in 1900.

The Empress Dowager, after defeating the Reformers and reclaiming her position on the Throne, was seen as anti-foreign and blamed for all the attacks on foreigners by ignorant Chinese that followed the “coup d’état.” Just two years later, when the secret society of the Boxers launched their violent attacks on foreigners, Her Majesty was held accountable for these actions, viewed as supporting the Boxers; at least among foreigners, she was seen as the high priestess, if not the founder, of the movement. However, the Boxer movement didn't originate from such lofty beginnings. It began among the common people in the northern provinces of China, far from the Capital, and had been around for several years before the attack on the Legations in 1900.

The open contempt of many of the foreigners living in China, not only for the Chinese as a race, but for their most cherished customs and traditions; the fact that the Chinese converts of the foreign missionaries may break Chinese laws and still not be amenable to Chinese punishment; the constantly renewed demands of the foreign powers for territory, for the punishment of high Chinese officials and hundreds of other acts that no body of foreigners in any country but China would dare to try to force upon the people, 264 finally aroused even this peaceable, long-suffering Nation.[9] The worm turned. The secret society of the Boxers took “China for the Chinese” as its motto, and to “drive out the foreigner,” or, at least, curtail his rapidly growing power, became its object. This society gained in force and grew in volume until it reached the Capital. Here, from the obscure classes among which it had its origin, it spread to the upper stratum of society and had followers among the highest in the land. Certain Princes of the Imperial Family even joined the ranks—among these latter the father of the next heir to the Throne, the Prince Tuan. These gave the movement an added force and made of it a patriotic effort.

The blatant disdain of many foreigners living in China, not just for the Chinese people as a whole, but also for their most valued customs and traditions; the fact that Chinese converts to foreign missionaries could violate Chinese laws and still not face Chinese punishment; the constant demands from foreign powers for territory, for punishing high-ranking Chinese officials, and countless other actions that no group of foreigners in any other country but China would ever dare to impose on the local population, 264 finally provoked even this peaceful, long-suffering nation. The situation changed. The secret society of the Boxers adopted "China for the Chinese" as their motto, and aimed to "drive out the foreigners," or at least limit their rapidly expanding influence. This society gained strength and support until it reached the capital. Here, emerging from the lower classes where it originated, it spread to higher societal levels and attracted followers among the elite. Certain princes of the imperial family even joined in—among them, the father of the next heir to the throne, Prince Tuan. Their involvement lent momentum to the movement and transformed it into a patriotic endeavor.

Then from smoldering discontent, it burst into open acts of violence against the foreigners. The final spark which caused the outbreak in the Capital and the attack upon the Legations is said to have been the report, which gained immediate credence among the discontents, that the Foreign Ministers were going to interfere with the Government itself, and ask for a change in it; that they were to insist upon the Empress Dowager’s retiring from the management of State affairs. This interference, by the foreigners, with the sacred prerogatives of China, as a Nation; this attempt at the removal of the Person of one of its Sacred Rulers, aroused the people to a wild fury. Without waiting to find out the truth of this report, and thinking, in their blind ignorance, that by getting rid of the representatives of the Foreign Powers, they might then be left in peace, the mob first attacked and killed the German 265 Minister, the Baron von Ketteler, as he was on his way to the Tsung Li Yamen, which the Wai-Wu-Pu now replaces. Then followed the general attack on the Legations.

Then, from simmering discontent, it erupted into open violence against the foreigners. The final trigger for the outbreak in the Capital and the assault on the Legations is believed to have been the rumor, which quickly gained traction among the discontented, that the Foreign Ministers were planning to interfere with the Government and request changes; specifically, that they would demand the Empress Dowager step down from managing State affairs. This interference by foreigners with the sacred rights of China as a nation and their attempt to remove one of its revered leaders ignited a furious reaction among the people. Without taking the time to verify the truth of this rumor and naively thinking that if they got rid of the foreign representatives, they would be left in peace, the mob first attacked and killed the German Minister, Baron von Ketteler, as he was heading to the Tsung Li Yamen, which is now replaced by the Wai-Wu-Pu. This was followed by a widespread attack on the Legations. 265

The movement then became a veritable torrent, rushing madly along, dashing aside all opposition and overwhelming right and reason.

The movement then turned into a full-blown rush, speeding along uncontrollably, pushing aside all resistance and overpowering what was right and rational.

The Emperor and Empress Dowager, powerful and autocratic as they are, could not stem the current, and only by going with it could they ever hope to bring judgment and reason to the surface again. No ruler in the world can or ever has been able to stop an uprising of his people when the latter felt they had right on their side or had been downtrodden or oppressed. Their Celestial Majesties were obliged to wait until the popular fury had somewhat abated before they could even attempt it. No sane person could believe that the Empress Dowager, with her natural intelligence and after thirty years of government and knowledge of foreign methods, did not know that this attack on the foreign representatives by the Chinese people would bring on severe reprisals. But she was powerless to do more than she did at the time. Their Majesties could not go against the people in their maddened state of mind. They hoped by joining the Imperial forces to the wild insurgents that these seething masses might be brought to reason. The mob was given a semblance of right by a declaration of war on the part of the government after the forts of Taku were taken by the foreign war-ships (which was really the first act of war of this unfortunate episode).

The Emperor and Empress Dowager, as powerful and controlling as they were, couldn't stop the momentum of the situation, and only by going along with it could they hope to restore some sense of judgment and reason. No ruler anywhere can, or has ever been able to, quell an uprising when the people believe they are in the right or have been oppressed. Their Celestial Majesties had to wait until the public outrage had calmed down somewhat before they could even try to take action. No one in their right mind could think that the Empress Dowager, with her natural intelligence and thirty years of experience in government and knowledge of foreign methods, didn’t realize that the attack by the Chinese people on foreign representatives would lead to severe consequences. But she was unable to do anything more than what she did at the time. Their Majesties couldn’t go against the people in their frenzied state of mind. They hoped that by aligning the Imperial forces with the chaotic insurgents, they could bring these restless masses back to reason. The mob was given a sense of legitimacy by the government's declaration of war after the foreign warships seized the forts at Taku, which was really the first act of war in this unfortunate situation.

266 When I saw the position of the Legation quarter and especially that of the British Legation, where all the foreigners finally congregated—open to attack on every side, lying under the very walls of the Palace and the Imperial City—I felt convinced that had there not been some restraining force within their own ranks, the Chinese could have wiped out the foreigners in less than a week. Bad firing on their part could only have averted, for a short space, the inevitable result to the Legations. Had there not been some power that was acting as a check upon the Chinese, no European would have been left to tell the tale; and this restraining force I feel confident came from the Emperor and the Empress Dowager themselves.

266 When I saw the layout of the Legation quarter and especially the British Legation, where all the foreigners eventually gathered—exposed to attacks from all sides and situated right next to the Palace and the Imperial City—I became convinced that if there hadn't been a restraining force among the Chinese themselves, they could have eliminated the foreigners in less than a week. Poor shooting on their part could only delay the inevitable outcome for the Legations for a short time. If there hadn't been some power keeping the Chinese in check, no European would have survived to tell the story; and I am confident that this restraining force came from the Emperor and the Empress Dowager themselves.

The Empress Dowager (with the Emperor) was at the Summer Palace, as usual, during the summer of 1900. Though urged by her ministers and the Princes to remain there, where she was out of danger or could easily escape at its approach, she insisted on returning to the Capital and went into the Winter Palace a week before the Allies reached the city. She hoped as a “dernier resort” that the presence of the Sacred Persons, Their Majesties, in the city might serve as a check upon the soldiers and people, now maddened by their own fury; for the Imperial troops, instead of checking the insurgents and leavening the masses by their right and reason, had, instead, become imbued with the same spirit as the Boxers themselves! But the Empress Dowager, on this occasion, counted too strongly on her popularity and upon the respect that the people felt for 267 the “Sacred Persons,” for even after their return to the Capital, even Their Majesties’ presence—even the issuing of Imperial edicts posted all over the city for the people to protect, or at least cease their attacks on the Legations—were powerless to do more than intermittently check the attacks.

The Empress Dowager (along with the Emperor) was at the Summer Palace as usual during the summer of 1900. Even though her ministers and the Princes urged her to stay there, where she would be safe or could easily escape danger, she insisted on returning to the Capital and entered the Winter Palace a week before the Allies arrived in the city. She hoped that as a "last resort," the presence of Their Majesties, the Sacred Persons, in the city might help to calm the soldiers and citizens, who were now driven wild by their own anger; for the Imperial troops, instead of stopping the insurgents and bringing reason to the masses, had become just as passionate as the Boxers themselves! However, the Empress Dowager was overly confident this time in her popularity and in the respect the people had for the "Sacred Persons," because even after Their Majesties returned to the Capital, their presence—even the issuing of Imperial edicts posted throughout the city urging the people to protect the Legations or at least stop their attacks—could do little more than temporarily halt the assaults. 267

Finally the Allies reached and entered the city! The Empress Dowager, discouraged and finding herself powerless, finally succumbed to the fears of her entourage for her Person. She, herself, became almost panic-stricken at the thought of falling into the hands of the foreigners, whose depredations and cruelty to the Chinese on that memorable march from Tientsin had all been reported to her with the usual exaggerations. Her indomitable spirit was broken. She consented, in an agony of womanly fear, to fly. She was disguised as a common woman, her long finger nails, which would have revealed her exalted rank, were cut off, and, in a common cart, she made her escape from the city. As she had refused to go until the last moment, everything at the Palace was left in the wildest confusion. Neither her jewelry, nor hardly sufficient clothing, was taken. She did not leave the Palace until several hours after the foreign troops had passed the Water Gate and were already within the walls of the English Legation. She had held out as long as possible.

Finally, the Allies reached and entered the city! The Empress Dowager, feeling discouraged and powerless, finally gave in to the fears of her advisors for her safety. She herself became almost panicked at the thought of falling into the hands of the foreigners, whose violence and cruelty towards the Chinese during that unforgettable march from Tientsin had all been reported to her with the usual exaggerations. Her strong spirit was broken. She agreed, in a state of fearful desperation, to flee. Disguised as an ordinary woman, her long fingernails— which would have revealed her royal status— were cut off, and she escaped the city in a common cart. She had refused to leave until the very last moment, so everything at the Palace was left in utter chaos. Neither her jewelry nor hardly any adequate clothing was taken. She didn’t leave the Palace until several hours after the foreign troops had passed the Water Gate and were already inside the walls of the English Legation. She had held out as long as she could.

The memorable flight to Singan Fu began that night. The Court was accompanied by a regiment of Imperial troops, but such was their demoralized condition, so many Boxers were among the soldiers, that rank insubordination prevailed. Neither the officers, 268 nor even the presence in their midst of the Sacred Persons, served as any check upon the soldiers. The greatest confusion prevailed. The maddest of the insurgents had begun to look forward to retribution and to realize that punishment would be inevitably visited upon them either by the foreigners or by the Chinese Government when things calmed down, and this thought seemed but to madden them further.

The unforgettable flight to Singan Fu started that night. The Court was accompanied by a regiment of Imperial troops, but their morale was so low, and so many Boxers were among the soldiers, that rank insubordination was rampant. Neither the officers, 268 nor even the presence of the Sacred Persons among them, could rein in the soldiers. There was chaos everywhere. The most extreme of the insurgents began to anticipate punishment, realizing that either the foreigners or the Chinese Government would inevitably take action against them once things settled down, and this thought only drove them further into madness.

As the flight led the Imperial party through the section of country where the society of Boxers had the greatest number of adherents, the people, in many instances, refused food and shelter to the Imperial fugitives. They felt the Court had been against them and for the foreigners. Prince Su, in his account of the journey to Singan Fu, relates that neither Her Majesty nor the Emperor had enough to eat; that the soldiers stole the food that was prepared for Their Majesties. I heard at the Palace that it was only His Majesty who suffered the pangs of hunger. He, as well as all in the great company that formed the Court party, deprived himself rather than see the Empress Dowager suffer. I heard Her Majesty say that the Emperor’s food was stolen, and she did not know for several days that he was depriving himself for her. She thought all the Imperial party had her own, meager enough allowance.

As the flight took the Imperial group through the area where the Boxer society had the most followers, many people refused to offer food and shelter to the Imperial fugitives. They believed the Court was against them and supporting the foreigners. Prince Su, in his account of the journey to Singan Fu, states that neither Her Majesty nor the Emperor had enough to eat; the soldiers stole the food that was meant for Their Majesties. I heard at the Palace that only His Majesty experienced hunger. He, along with everyone in the large group that made up the Court party, went without food rather than let the Empress Dowager suffer. I heard Her Majesty say that the Emperor’s food was taken, and she didn’t realize for several days that he was sacrificing his own meals for her. She thought everyone in the Imperial party had her own, very limited allowance.

The Empress Dowager saw and heard many new and strange things on that memorable journey, but she bore it all bravely. After the first panic of fear, her indomitable spirit resumed its natural poise. Her capacity for seeing the humorous side of things also helped her to bear it, and furnished her with a fund 269 of witty anecdotes later, though she once remarked that, at the time, she did not appreciate the humorous side to its full extent. Their experiences at this time were often the theme of conversation among the Ladies at the Palace. While I was there they were constantly referred to by the Princesses and even by the eunuchs of the Court. These pampered individuals had then their first experience with the hardships of the outer world, though, to do them justice, they rarely referred to their own hardships, which must have been severe, only speaking of what Their Majesties and the Ladies had to endure. This flight from Peking to Singan Fu marks an epoch in the Palace. Everything is dated as before or after that time. After Her Majesty had accomplished this perilous journey and borne it so bravely, she was given a new title, a dearer, higher one. She was called Lao-Tzu-Tzung (the Great Ancestress) by her enthusiastic admirers.

The Empress Dowager experienced many new and strange things during that remarkable journey, but she faced it all with courage. After the initial panic, her unbreakable spirit regained its composure. Her ability to see the funny side of life also helped her cope and provided her with a collection of witty stories later on, although she mentioned that at the time, she didn't fully appreciate the humor in it. Their experiences during this period were often a topic of conversation among the Ladies at the Palace. While I was there, the Princesses and even the eunuchs frequently brought it up. These privileged individuals encountered the difficulties of the outside world for the first time, but to their credit, they seldom spoke of their own challenges, which must have been tough, only discussing what Their Majesties and the Ladies had to endure. This escape from Peking to Singan Fu marked a significant moment in the Palace’s history. Everything is referenced as before or after that event. After Her Majesty completed this dangerous journey with such bravery, she was granted a new title, one that was more cherished and elevated. Her enthusiastic admirers called her Lao-Tzu-Tzung (the Great Ancestress). 269

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CHAPTER XXXI THE EMPRESS DOWAGER'S CHARITIES, SENSE OF JUSTICE, EXTRAVAGANCE, AND PERSONALITY TRAITS.

The Empress Dowager’s charities are extensive; she feeds the poor and succors the unfortunate. When her sympathies are aroused, she gives freely and generously. Her edicts are constantly ordering sacks of rice and food to be distributed among the poor and sent to districts where famine reigns. There is a great refuge in Peking, which she supports, where ten thousand poor are succored and fed during the year. During the winter, edicts are constantly appearing similar to this—commanding “The distribution from the Imperial granaries of fifteen hundred piculs (133-1/3 pounds to the picul) of rice for refuges and gruel stations for the poor in North Tung Chow.” Edict of November 6, 1904.

The Empress Dowager’s charities are extensive; she feeds the poor and helps those in need. When her compassion is stirred, she gives freely and generously. Her orders frequently direct that sacks of rice and food are distributed to the poor and sent to areas suffering from famine. There is a large refuge in Beijing that she supports, providing aid and food for ten thousand people throughout the year. During winter, edicts often emerge like this—commanding “The distribution from the Imperial granaries of fifteen hundred piculs (133-1/3 pounds per picul) of rice for refuges and gruel stations for the poor in North Tung Chow.” Edict of November 6, 1904.

She also sympathizes with misfortune, tries to right the wrongs she knows of, and correct the abuses that come to her ears. From the “North China Herald” of November 19, 1904, I copy the following, and this paper cannot be accused of viewing any of Her Majesty’s acts with a partial spirit (much to the contrary):

She also feels for those who are struggling, attempts to fix the injustices she’s aware of, and addresses the wrongs that are reported to her. From the “North China Herald” dated November 19, 1904, I have copied the following, and this publication cannot be accused of having a biased view of any of Her Majesty’s actions (quite the opposite):

“During the Boxer troubles a bad character, by the name of Wang, owed money to a certain Chinese Mohammedan. Wang 271 had been frequently dunned, and was finally condemned by the courts to pay the debt; he was, besides, ordered to be beaten, as he had been insolent to the Mandarin trying the case. This incensed Wang, and he swore vengeance. When the Boxer troubles were in full swing in Peking, he became the leader of a band of insurgents and led his band to the house of the Mohammedan whom he had been forced by the courts to pay. Wang and his band massacred not only his old enemy, but eleven members of his family; leaving only a young daughter-in-law who had hidden in a loft and saw the whole tragedy; she also saw them march off, carrying, on spears, the heads of the old man and four of his sons.

“During the Boxer Rebellion, a shady character named Wang owed money to a certain Chinese Muslim. Wang had been pressured to pay back the debt multiple times and was eventually ordered by the courts to settle it; he was also sentenced to be beaten for being disrespectful to the Mandarin overseeing the case. This enraged Wang, and he vowed to take revenge. When the Boxer Rebellion escalated in Peking, he became the leader of a group of insurgents and led them to the home of the Muslim he had been forced to repay. Wang and his group killed not only his old enemy but also eleven members of his family, leaving only a young daughter-in-law who had hidden in an attic and witnessed the entire scene; she also saw them leave, carrying the heads of the old man and four of his sons on spears.”

The poor daughter-in-law escaped from Peking soon after, and was not able to return there until a few months since, in 1904. She discovered the dwelling of the murderer of her husband’s family, and had a petition drawn up on the subject.

The poor daughter-in-law fled from Peking shortly after and wasn't able to go back until a few months ago, in 1904. She found out where the killer of her husband’s family lived and had a petition written about it.

One day when Her Majesty was proceeding from one Palace to another, the young widow threw herself before the Empress Dowager’s cortège. Her Majesty saw the prostrate girl (only nineteen years of age), and commanded her guards to ask what she wanted. The girl, dressed in deep mourning, held above her head her petition, calling for justice against her husband’s murderers. Her Majesty read the petition, and her brow became black as night. She called to a eunuch in her train and commanded him to take the young petitioner and her petition to the ‘Board of Punishments,’ and deliver the Imperial Commands that no time be lost in arresting the murderers; that they should be tried, and the result reported to Her Majesty. This was done, and on the first of November, 1904, the chief murderer Wang, his two sons and a nephew were decapitated to expiate their cruel crimes.”

One day, as Her Majesty was traveling from one palace to another, a young widow threw herself in front of the Empress Dowager's procession. The Empress saw the girl lying down (only nineteen years old) and ordered her guards to find out what she wanted. The girl, dressed in deep mourning, held her petition above her head, asking for justice against her husband’s murderers. Her Majesty read the petition, and her expression darkened. She called a eunuch in her entourage and ordered him to take the young petitioner and her petition to the 'Board of Punishments,' commanding that they act quickly to arrest the murderers, try them, and report back to Her Majesty. This was done, and on November 1, 1904, the main murderer Wang, along with his two sons and a nephew, were executed by decapitation to pay for their cruel crimes.

The Empress Dowager is said to be recklessly extravagant in her own habits as well as in the management of Palace affairs. As for extravagance in the Palace, bad management doubtless exists, and extravagance does prevail. Abuses always creep in where the management of great establishments is intrusted to 272 money-seeking officials, and to eunuchs, as is the case in the Palace at Peking.

The Empress Dowager is known to be extravagantly wasteful in her own lifestyle and in how she handles Palace matters. When it comes to spending in the Palace, there is certainly poor management, and extravagance is present. Problems always arise when the management of large institutions is given to money-driven officials and eunuchs, as is the situation in the Palace in Beijing. 272

Extravagance in the Palace has been the theme of Chinese economists for many generations, for hundreds of years before the Manchu Dynasty came to the Throne. Several of the Emperors have themselves attempted to stem this extravagance by personal efforts and private economy, but to no avail. It is related of one Emperor that the sleeve of his State robe being a little worn, he called up his Master of the Household to ask what a new robe would cost. He found that it would cost three thousand taels, and as only the right sleeve of this gown was worn (as he used his arm a great deal in writing), he decided, in order that he might himself show a good example, and inaugurate economy, to have a new sleeve made, instead of ordering an entire gown. He gave his commands, in consequence, and the gown was taken out of the Palace and remained several months. When it was returned, what was His Majesty’s astonishment and chagrin to find that the cost of the new sleeve had exceeded that of a new gown!

Extravagance in the Palace has been a topic for Chinese economists for many generations, even long before the Manchu Dynasty took power. Several Emperors have tried to reduce this extravagance through personal efforts and private economy, but without success. There’s a story about one Emperor who, noticing that the sleeve of his ceremonial robe was a bit worn, called his Master of the Household to inquire about the cost of a new robe. He learned it would cost three thousand taels, and since only the right sleeve was damaged (because he used his arm a lot while writing), he decided to set a good example and promote frugality by having just a new sleeve made instead of ordering a whole new robe. He gave the order, and the robe was sent out of the Palace, taking several months to return. When it finally came back, His Majesty was shocked and dismayed to find that the price of the new sleeve had exceeded that of a brand new robe!

In his walks outside of the Palace, another Emperor bought an article of food for a few pence. The next time he had it in the Palace he asked what the dish cost and was told it was “four taels.” When he remonstrated, saying what he had paid for it outside of the Palace, his Master of the Household told him it was impossible to have it “inside” the Palace or on His Majesty’s table at any less than the sum of four taels. If His Majesty wished it for a few pence, His Majesty might buy it outside the Palace and bring 273 it in himself for that sum, but no one else could bring it inside for the price it could be bought outside, as it had to go through so many official hands before it reached His Majesty’s table, that it actually cost the sum of four taels.

During his walks outside the Palace, another Emperor bought a food item for just a few cents. The next time he had it in the Palace, he asked how much the dish cost and was told it was "four taels." When he protested, mentioning what he had paid for it outside, his Master of the Household explained that it was impossible to serve it "inside" the Palace or on His Majesty's table for anything less than four taels. If His Majesty wanted it for just a few cents, he could buy it outside the Palace and bring it in himself for that price, but no one else could bring it inside for the price it was bought outside, as it had to pass through so many official hands before reaching His Majesty's table, making it actually cost four taels. 273

After several efforts of this kind at reducing the Palace expenses, even these wise and economical Emperors were obliged to give it up. If these Emperors of ancient times, when the Palace was conducted on more simple lines than it is to-day, were powerless to check extravagance in the Imperial household, how much more difficult must it be to do so now that the system has become petrified with age—especially for the Empress Dowager, who can never go outside and see things for herself! It is said that each egg at Their Majesties’ table costs three taels, but Palace reform, necessary as it is, must come from without, from the officials, and no private effort of Their Majesties can change things.

After several attempts to cut the Palace's expenses, even these wise and frugal Emperors had to give up. If the Emperors from ancient times, when the Palace was run more simply than it is today, couldn't stop the extravagance in the Imperial household, how much harder must it be now that the system has become set in its ways—especially for the Empress Dowager, who can never go outside to see things for herself! It's said that each egg at Their Majesties' table costs three taels, but for necessary Palace reform to happen, it must come from outside, from the officials, and no private efforts from Their Majesties can change anything.

As for the Empress Dowager’s personal extravagance, aside from present-giving, I saw no evidence of it. Her wardrobe, in point of actual cost, aside from her jewels, would not be superior in price to that of the wives of some of our American millionaires; for the styles do not change in China, and furs and embroideries are handed down from generation to generation. Her jewels, even, are not more gorgeous or more numerous, though they are more unique, than those of any of the European sovereigns. She has an immense number of pearls—for the pearl is her favorite precious stone, besides being the jewel of the Dynasty—but she has no diamonds, no emeralds, and very few European 274 precious stones. She has a quantity of fine jade jewels, but these, as well as pearls, are cheaper in China than elsewhere.

Regarding the Empress Dowager's personal extravagance, aside from her gift-giving, I saw no sign of it. Her wardrobe, when it comes to actual cost, not including her jewels, is probably on par with that of some American millionaires' wives; styles don't really change in China, and furs and embroideries are passed down through generations. Even her jewels aren't more stunning or more plentiful, though they are more unique, than those of any European royals. She has a huge collection of pearls—her favorite precious stone, as well as the jewel of the Dynasty—but she has no diamonds, no emeralds, and very few European precious stones. She does own a number of fine jade jewels, but these, like the pearls, are less expensive in China than elsewhere. 274

I saw several incidents which seemed to point rather to personal economy on Her Majesty’s part than to extravagance. While I was painting one of the portraits, she decided that the trimming on the gown must be changed. She had bolts of different kinds of ribbon brought in to select from and finally decided upon a certain piece. She called a maid to sew some around the neck. When I wanted to have this piece cut off, so that some might be sewed around the hem where it was also visible, she said the ribbon had better not be cut, for it was a “handsome piece,” and, if cut, it might spoil it for use in “trimming another gown.” These pieces of ribbon and embroidery come in lengths for one dress only. One day when she was drinking some fruit juice, her hand slipped on the polished jade bowl and some of it fell upon the front of her jacket. She was most annoyed, and after several ineffectual attempts of her own and the attendants to remove the spot, she said she had heard that the foreigners had some wonderful processes of cleaning and she must have them investigated, for it was too bad to have a thing spoiled by an accident of that kind when a good garment was rendered useless for any one!

I saw several instances that seemed more about Her Majesty being frugal than extravagant. While I was painting one of her portraits, she decided the trimming on her gown needed to be changed. She had different types of ribbon brought in for her to choose from and finally picked a specific piece. She called a maid to sew it around the neck. When I suggested cutting this piece to also use it for the hem where it was visible, she insisted it should not be cut, as it was a “handsome piece,” and cutting it might ruin it for “trimming another gown.” These pieces of ribbon and embroidery are typically long enough for just one dress. One day, while she was drinking some fruit juice, her hand slipped on the polished jade bowl, and some juice spilled on the front of her jacket. She was really annoyed, and after several unsuccessful attempts by herself and her attendants to clean the spot, she mentioned hearing that foreigners had some amazing cleaning methods and that she needed to look into them because it was a shame for such an accident to ruin a good garment!

She had the good of China at heart and was really a patriot; in fact, I observed more patriotism, more National pride among the people I saw at Court, than I ever noticed elsewhere in China. I feel convinced the Empress Dowager has strong National feeling and 275 really loves her country, and is as patriotic a Chinese as there is in China. When there were internal troubles, or exterior complications, she seemed to be really worried and to grieve, as if it were a personal thing. She made mistakes, of course, and grave ones, but when it is remembered that her knowledge of what takes place “outside,” comes entirely from the reports made to her, that she has no opportunity of seeing things for herself, it seems wonderful she does not make more.

She genuinely cared about the well-being of China and was truly a patriot; in fact, I noticed more patriotism and national pride among the people I observed at Court than I ever saw anywhere else in China. I'm convinced that the Empress Dowager has a strong sense of national identity and really loves her country, making her one of the most patriotic Chinese people. When there were internal issues or external challenges, she seemed genuinely distressed, as if it were a personal matter. She made mistakes, of course, and serious ones, but considering that her understanding of what happens “outside” comes solely from reports given to her, and that she doesn't have the chance to see things for herself, it's remarkable that she doesn't make even more errors. 275

Last winter a new scheme of taxation, by which the revenue would be largely increased and which taxation would be scarcely felt by the people, was presented to Their Majesties for consideration. Her Majesty soon grasped the entire scope of the scheme and thought it good and feasible; but though the payment of the foreign indemnity made it imperative to increase the revenue by every means possible, she hesitated over the inauguration of this new scheme, fearing it might give the officials a new opportunity to oppress the common people, for it is not the laws that oppress the people in China. This is done by the officials who enforce them. She evidently realized this power that the officials have of “squeezing” the people, and she wished to be assured of the manner in which this taxation would be enforced before she gave her consent to the scheme. At the first presentation to her of this plan of taxation, she repeated several times, “I fear it may harass the people; we cannot harass the people; they have enough burdens to bear.” She was not so particular about not harassing the Officials, for they were called upon all 276 over China to make great contributions to the Imperial Treasury for the purpose of assisting in paying the foreign indemnity.

Last winter, a new tax plan was proposed to Their Majesties that would significantly increase revenue while being barely noticeable to the public. Her Majesty quickly understood the full scope of the proposal and thought it was good and practical. However, despite the urgency to boost revenue due to the need to pay the foreign indemnity, she hesitated to implement this new plan. She worried it might give officials a chance to further oppress the common people, as it’s not the laws themselves that burden the people in China, but rather the officials who enforce them. She clearly recognized this power that officials have to "squeeze" the people, and she wanted to be sure of how this taxation would be enforced before giving her approval. During the initial presentation of the tax plan, she repeatedly expressed concern, saying, “I fear it may harass the people; we cannot harass the people; they have enough burdens to bear.” She wasn’t as concerned about the officials being harassed, as they were being called upon across China to make significant contributions to the Imperial Treasury to help pay the foreign indemnity. 276

Notwithstanding her penetration of character, her naturally good judgment, she made mistakes in her appreciation of those who surrounded her; but this was not strange, for she had almost no opportunity of seeing them in their true light. She was a good physiognomist, but one cannot always trust to physiognomy. She was in the habit of giving all who surrounded her a certain amount of latitude, until they came to rely on her favor and revealed themselves in their true light to her. Then she would quickly suppress them or cast them aside. This often seemed cruel and heartless. She sometimes would take another’s estimate of a character which she had favorably judged, for, of course, there is a great deal of jealousy and intrigue among her entourage, and she was influenced by reports that she heard; for she was obliged, in order to form an opinion, to listen to the gossip of the Palace. Her own penetration, however, would generally come to her aid and, in the end, her judgment would right itself.

Despite her sharp sense of character and naturally good judgment, she sometimes misjudged the people around her. This wasn't surprising, as she rarely had the chance to see them as they truly were. She was good at reading faces, but you can't always rely on that. She usually allowed those around her a bit of freedom until they grew dependent on her approval and showed their true selves. At that point, she would quickly shut them down or push them away. This often came off as cruel and heartless. Occasionally, she'd go along with someone else's opinion of a person she had previously viewed positively because there was a lot of jealousy and scheming among her circle, influencing what she heard. To form her opinions, she had to pay attention to the gossip circulating in the Palace. However, her own insight usually helped her out, and ultimately, her judgment would correct itself.

She had strong prejudices, and often allowed herself to be deceived by the favorites to whom she had given her confidence. After several preliminary trials of their character, and when she thought she had arrived at a proper estimate of it, she was an easy victim. These favorites could then act with impunity, and she was sometimes made the dupe of their schemes. Thus Ministers, courtiers, friends, and attendants, who had once thoroughly established their positions with her, 277 could often get the advantage of her and impose upon her natural acumen.

She had strong biases and often allowed herself to be misled by the favorites she trusted. After several initial tests of their character, once she believed she had a good sense of it, she became an easy target. These favorites could then act without fear of repercussions, and she was sometimes tricked by their schemes. As a result, ministers, courtiers, friends, and attendants who had secured their positions with her could often take advantage of her and deceive her sharp instincts. 277

She could be most sarcastic, sometimes cruelly so, but I generally found there was some reason for her sarcasm. She was very impulsive and had her share of temper, but there was never any unladylike display of it. When she was angry her voice was never raised; it simply lost its silvery sweetness and took the quality of some ordinary metal, and she was always quiet and well-bred.

She could be really sarcastic, sometimes even mean, but I usually found there was a reason behind her sarcasm. She was pretty impulsive and had a bit of a temper, but she never showed it in an unladylike way. When she was angry, her voice never got loud; it just lost its sweet tone and sounded more like regular metal, and she always remained calm and well-mannered.

From what I saw of the Empress Dowager, it seemed to me she would not brook interference in the accomplishment of a design she had set her heart upon—that she would not hesitate even at crushing an individual who stood in the way of the realization of some plan she had fixed upon. But her judgment was so good, she did not decide upon a thing unless she felt it was absolutely imperative to carry it out.

From what I saw of the Empress Dowager, it seemed to me she would not tolerate anyone getting in the way of a goal she was determined to achieve—that she would not hesitate to eliminate anyone who obstructed her plans. However, her judgment was so sharp that she wouldn’t commit to something unless she believed it was absolutely necessary to see it through.

As for tact and social savoir, she is remarkable. I never knew any one to possess these qualities to a greater degree. At her first Audience to foreigners, Sir Claude MacDonald, in reporting it, spoke of the Empress Dowager as “a kind and courteous hostess, who displayed both the tact and softness of a womanly disposition.” Lady Susan Townley says of her: “Where has she learned the ease and dignity with which she receives her European guests?” These opinions of her social tact, so far as I could learn, are held by all the members of the Foreign Legations in Peking.

When it comes to tact and social skills, she is exceptional. I've never known anyone who has these qualities in greater abundance. At her first meeting with foreigners, Sir Claude MacDonald described the Empress Dowager as “a kind and gracious hostess, who showed both the tact and gentleness of a feminine nature.” Lady Susan Townley remarked, “Where did she acquire the grace and poise with which she welcomes her European guests?” From what I've gathered, all members of the Foreign Legations in Beijing share these views about her social skills.

When the young Prince Adalbert of Prussia was received in special Audience by Their Majesties, on his visit to Peking, he was accompanied not only by the 278 German Minister and his staff, but by a number of officers as his personal escort. This made an unusually large number of presentations necessary. I have been told that at the Audiences of the Diplomatic Corps, where only gentlemen were present, the Empress Dowager had a sort of shyness and did not show the same ease of manner as when she received the ladies. But at this Audience of the young Prince she became interested in talking with him, and I heard one of the gentlemen who was present say it was the first time he had seen Her Majesty thoroughly at ease at one of the Audiences to the Diplomatic Corps, and that on that day she was perfectly charming, seeming to take the liveliest interest in questioning the young Prince and conversing with him in a motherly way, and that he then realized to its full extent her wonderful charm and her great social instinct.

When young Prince Adalbert of Prussia was granted a special audience with Their Majesties during his visit to Beijing, he was not only accompanied by the German Minister and his team, but also by several officers serving as his personal escort. This required an unusually large number of introductions. I've been told that at the audiences with the Diplomatic Corps, where only men were present, the Empress Dowager seemed somewhat shy and didn’t display the same comfort as when she interacted with women. However, during this audience with the young prince, she became genuinely engaged in conversation with him. I heard one of the gentlemen present remark that it was the first time he had seen Her Majesty completely relaxed during an audience with the Diplomatic Corps, and on that day, she was utterly charming, appearing to take a keen interest in asking the young prince questions and chatting with him in a nurturing manner, revealing her remarkable charm and strong social intuition. 278

I have heard it said that the Empress Dowager puts all this charm on for these occasions; that she is a consummate actress, but during the whole time I was in the Palace I never saw her other than the charming hostess, considerate of the comfort of those who surround her and readily sympathizing with sorrow, and I have seen her under all circumstances, at Audiences and in private, in anxiety and sorrow and in joy. She was too great a lover of Nature in all its phases to be cruel and heartless, and I am convinced she is really genuinely kind. She apparently greatly admired intelligence, and goodness always seemed to appeal to her. She was ever a fascinating study, and her magnetic personality full of charm. I found her thoroughly human and perfectly womanly.

I've heard people say that the Empress Dowager puts on an act for these events; that she's a master performer. But during my entire time in the Palace, I only saw her as a charming hostess, always mindful of the comfort of those around her and easily empathizing with their sorrows. I encountered her in every situation—at formal Audiences and in private, whether she was anxious, sad, or joyful. She loved Nature in all its forms too much to be cruel or heartless, and I truly believe she is genuinely kind. She seemed to have a deep admiration for intelligence, and goodness always resonated with her. She was a captivating subject to observe, with a magnetic personality full of charm. I found her to be completely relatable and utterly feminine.

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CHAPTER XXXII Chinese New Year - Official Event

The Chinese New Year, the greatest of the popular festivals, is, of course, celebrated with much pomp and enthusiasm at the Palace. Splendid decorations, hundreds of beautiful horn lanterns, with their long, red silk tassels, the great red “Sho” emblazoned on their sides, made the courts and verandahs gay with color. Painted figures of red-clothed gods regarded one at every turn. Hideous monsters with vermilion faces, painted on the outside doors, brandished spears to frighten away the bad spirits. There were the usual gala representations at the Theater; and the Palace, as at all festivals, was filled with visitors.

The Chinese New Year, the biggest of the popular festivals, is, of course, celebrated with a lot of excitement and flair at the Palace. Gorgeous decorations and hundreds of beautiful horn lanterns with their long red silk tassels, featuring the big red “Sho” on the sides, filled the courts and porches with color. Painted figures of gods in red clothing were visible at every turn. Ugly monsters with bright red faces, painted on the front doors, wielded spears to scare away evil spirits. There were the usual festive performances at the Theater, and the Palace, as always during festivals, was packed with visitors.

The Chinese pay all their debts at the New Year. If they have not the ready money to do so, they will dispose of anything valuable they have, in order to begin the New Year free from debt. It is considered tempting Heaven to begin it otherwise. A great deal of silver imitation money is exchanged at this season. This is an old custom and supposed to bring abundance during the year. At the New Year, present-giving reaches its culminating point in China. Every one, rich and poor, high and low, gives presents then.

The Chinese settle all their debts at the New Year. If they don't have the cash to do so, they'll sell anything valuable they possess to start the New Year debt-free. It's believed to be tempting fate to start otherwise. A lot of silver fake money is exchanged during this time. This is an old tradition that's thought to bring prosperity throughout the year. During the New Year, gift-giving peaks in China. Everyone, whether rich or poor, high or low, gives and receives gifts then.

Their Majesties not only gave to all the Ladies and 280 Princesses, but to every inmate of the Palace, and even the beggar at the gate was not forgotten; but the presents exchanged at the New Year are never so handsome as those given for a birthday. The presents the Empress Dowager received on this occasion were principally flowers (her Throne-room was full of them, as well as her private apartments)—dwarf fruit trees twisted into fantastic shapes, laden with fragrant blossoms and splendid plants of peonies in full flower, and countless vases of the Chinese Lily, as they call the Narcissus in China. The Empress Dowager tried to be cheerful and not dampen the gaiety of the Festival by her alarm, but the long-looked-for and much-dreaded war between Russia and Japan had then actually begun, and she was mortally anxious! The Japanese were already in Manchuria, and no one knew how it might affect China!

Their Majesties not only gave gifts to all the Ladies and Princesses but also to every resident of the Palace, and even the beggar at the gate wasn't forgotten. However, the gifts exchanged at New Year are never as lavish as those given for a birthday. The presents the Empress Dowager received on this occasion were mainly flowers (her Throne room was filled with them, as well as her private quarters)—dwarf fruit trees shaped into unique forms, covered in fragrant blooms, and stunning peony plants in full bloom, along with countless vases of the Chinese Lily, which is what they call Narcissus in China. The Empress Dowager tried to stay cheerful and not dampen the mood of the Festival with her worries, but the long-anticipated and much-feared war between Russia and Japan had actually started, and she was extremely anxious! The Japanese were already in Manchuria, and no one knew how it might impact China!

SLAVE GIRLS

Slave girls

Though I did not work on the portrait during the New Year’s festivities, it was now really advancing. When Her Majesty saw how the hands looked when they were drawn in, with the palms of the hands hidden by the long fur undersleeves, in the position I had dared to find fault with at the first sitting, she at once suggested having the fur undersleeves taken off, but she still said nothing about changing the position of the hands, though I saw she had her doubts about them, and I felt confident her good taste would finally prevail and she would want them changed. I painted them in with a thin wash of color, knowing they would be changed later. A few days after this, she remarked that my “idea about the position of the hands was not bad,” and suggested that the left hand “would look well on a 281 cushion.” I made this change in the small study, much to her satisfaction, and then did the hands likewise in the large portrait.

Though I didn’t work on the portrait during the New Year’s celebrations, it was really progressing now. When Her Majesty saw how the hands looked when they were drawn in, with the palms hidden by the long fur undersleeves, in the position I had initially criticized at the first sitting, she immediately suggested removing the fur undersleeves. However, she still didn’t mention changing the position of the hands, although I could tell she had her doubts about them, and I was confident her good taste would eventually win out and she would want them changed. I painted them in with a light wash of color, knowing they would be altered later. A few days later, she commented that my “idea about the position of the hands wasn’t bad,” and suggested that the left hand “would look good on a 281 cushion.” I made this change in the small study, which pleased her, and then I did the same with the hands in the large portrait.

The New Year festivities were hardly over before the Empress Dowager decided to move the Court to the Sea Palace. This Palace, though not so much a favorite with her as the Summer Palace, she liked better than the Winter Palace; the latter’s small, shut-in courts, walled-in walks, and rigid traditions seemed to depress her. At the Sea Palace she had gardens for her promenades and there was a lake. It was not so beautiful as the Summer Palace, but was an improvement over the Winter Palace.

The New Year celebrations had barely wrapped up when the Empress Dowager chose to relocate the Court to the Sea Palace. This Palace, while not her top choice like the Summer Palace, was still preferable to the Winter Palace; the latter's cramped, enclosed courtyards, walled pathways, and strict customs seemed to bring her down. At the Sea Palace, she enjoyed gardens for her strolls and there was a lake. It wasn't as stunning as the Summer Palace, but it was definitely better than the Winter Palace.

This move to the Sea Palace necessitated another change of studio for me, just as I was comfortably installed in my quarters in the Winter Palace, and had begun to progress with my work. I knew I should be obliged to have the new place arranged with upper glass windows and that I would again lose time, and the date of the opening of the St. Louis Exposition was approaching! But there was no help for it; I must go with the Court to the Sea Palace. I was told that there I was to have a magnificent pavilion on the lake, with a perfect light for painting. As to the pavilion’s being magnificent, I had no doubt, but I did doubt, from past experiences, whether the light would be all that could be desired.

This move to the Sea Palace meant I had to change studios again, just as I was getting settled in my space at the Winter Palace and starting to really make progress on my work. I knew I would have to set up the new place with large upper windows, and that I would lose more time, while the opening date of the St. Louis Exposition was getting closer! But it couldn't be helped; I had to go with the Court to the Sea Palace. I was told there I'd have a stunning pavilion by the lake, with perfect lighting for painting. I had no doubt about the pavilion being beautiful, but based on past experiences, I wasn't so sure the lighting would be as good as I hoped.

One morning our chairs carried us to the Sea Palace instead of to the Winter Palace. All my painting things, materials, canvases, as well as Her Majesty’s Throne, on which she was seated for the portrait, had been moved. Not the smallest piece of paper, nor 282 even a bit of charcoal was missing. I had painted until the last moment at the Winter Palace, the day before; and early the next morning my things were in perfect order—the portrait on the easel, and the Throne in the proper position in my quarters at the Sea Palace. It was an “Aladdin’s-Lamp” move.

One morning, our chairs took us to the Sea Palace instead of the Winter Palace. All my painting supplies, materials, canvases, and Her Majesty’s Throne, where she sat for the portrait, had been relocated. Not a single piece of paper or even a bit of charcoal was missing. I had painted right up until the last moment at the Winter Palace the day before, and early the next morning, everything was perfectly organized— the portrait on the easel and the Throne in the right spot in my room at the Sea Palace. It was like a move from an "Aladdin's Lamp." 282

The group of buildings that had been set aside for my painting fronted on the lake, and were really charming, but the overhanging verandahs to each pavilion forced me again to have the upper windows put in. After this was accomplished, it was the best working-room I had ever had at any of the Palaces. The days were getting longer and the light better, and I hoped now to soon finish the portrait.

The set of buildings designated for my painting overlooked the lake and were quite lovely, but the overhanging verandas for each pavilion made it necessary for me to have the upper windows installed. Once that was done, it became the best workspace I had ever had at any of the Palaces. The days were getting longer and the light was improving, and I was hopeful that I would soon finish the portrait.

A few days after the Court moved to the Sea Palace, the members of the Corps Diplomatique were received in Audience to present their congratulations to the Emperor and Empress Dowager on the occasion of the Chinese New Year. They were received in the Great Audience Hall; but the ladies of the Legation, whose reception took place the following day, were received in Her Majesty’s Throne-room opening on the Court of the large Theater at the Sea Palace. As it was cold, the Theater and its court were entirely inclosed and roofed over in glass, in panes of about a foot and a half square. On each pane was painted, in red, the ever-present character “Sho” (longevity), surrounded by five bats. The marble pavement of the court and the steps leading up to the Throne-room were carpeted in red; and when the great doors were thrown wide, there was a good effect of size given, 283 although this Throne-room was one of the smallest in the Sea Palace.

A few days after the Court moved to the Sea Palace, the members of the Corps Diplomatique were welcomed for an Audience to congratulate the Emperor and Empress Dowager on Chinese New Year. They were received in the Great Audience Hall; however, the ladies of the Legation, whose reception happened the following day, were welcomed in Her Majesty’s Throne-room, which opened onto the court of the large Theater at the Sea Palace. Since it was cold, the Theater and its court were entirely enclosed and covered with glass, using panes about a foot and a half square. Each pane was painted in red with the character “Sho” (longevity), surrounded by five bats. The marble pavement of the court and the steps leading to the Throne-room were covered in red carpet; when the grand doors were swung open, it created an impressive sense of space, even though this Throne-room was one of the smallest in the Sea Palace. 283

As this was to be a formal reception, several members of the Wai-Wu-Pu were present as interpreters. The ladies of the Legation were presented by the Baron Czikan, the Austrian Minister, Doyen of the Corps. He made a graceful address in French, wishing Their Majesties a Happy New Year, and China much prosperity. This was translated into Chinese by one of the Secretaries of the Wai-Wu-Pu. The Empress Dowager replied for herself and the Emperor, in Chinese. Her Majesty’s words were interpreted by His Excellency Liang Fang, a good French scholar. Then the Doyen presented the ladies individually, and the usual order of ceremonies followed. When the presentations were over, the Doyen, foreign attachés and interpreters, with the Chinese officials, repaired to the hall which had been set aside for their luncheon, while the ladies, accompanied by the Princesses, went to their repast in another part of the Palace!

As this was a formal reception, several members of the Wai-Wu-Pu were there as interpreters. The ladies of the Legation were introduced by Baron Czikan, the Austrian Minister and Doyen of the Corps. He delivered a gracious speech in French, wishing Their Majesties a Happy New Year and wishing China much success. One of the Secretaries of the Wai-Wu-Pu translated this into Chinese. The Empress Dowager responded for herself and the Emperor in Chinese. Her Majesty's words were interpreted by His Excellency Liang Fang, who was a skilled French scholar. Then, the Doyen introduced the ladies one by one, and the usual order of ceremonies took place. Once the introductions were complete, the Doyen, foreign attachés, and interpreters, along with the Chinese officials, went to the hall set aside for their lunch, while the ladies, along with the Princesses, went to their meal in another part of the Palace!

Only a few days after this, came the lantern festival; but this was not an interruption to my work, for I painted all day, and only went to the Theater for the final piece and the spectacular tableau. We dined in the Imperial loge, and after dinner there were beautiful lantern and torch-light processions. In the court opposite the Throne-room where we dined, there was a beautiful pai-lou of transparent gauze, painted in charming designs, illuminated from within, and hung with luminous flowers and quaint lanterns. Tall eunuchs, in gala red, stood around the courts, holding great lanterns aloft, like huge caryatides 284 with luminous burdens. Others with fanciful vermilion lanterns wound in and out through corridors and courts. When they reached the court of the softly glowing pai-lou, they manœuvered and made intricate designs and luminous tableaux, holding aloft their red-globed lanterns to form characters and phrases of “felicitous omen.” These huge, luminous characters were wonderfully accurate.

Just a few days later, the lantern festival arrived; but it didn't disrupt my work, since I painted all day and only went to the theater for the final performance and the stunning display. We had dinner in the Imperial box, and after the meal, there were beautiful lantern and torchlight parades. In the courtyard across from the Throne room where we dined, there was an exquisite pai-lou made of transparent gauze, decorated with charming designs, lit from within, and adorned with glowing flowers and unique lanterns. Tall eunuchs in festive red stood around the courtyards, holding large lanterns high like giant caryatids with bright loads. Others with whimsical vermilion lanterns weaved in and out through the corridors and courtyards. When they reached the courtyard of the softly glowing pai-lou, they maneuvered and created intricate designs and illuminated scenes, lifting their red-globed lanterns to form characters and phrases of “good fortune.” These massive, glowing characters were incredibly precise. 284

After the torch- and lantern-lit processions, and the glowing tableaux, a pair of illuminated dragons writhed into the court and struggled for the “flaming pearl,” which flitted around with elusive fantastic movements, ever beyond their grasp. I was not able to find out the origin of the Imperial legend of the Double Dragon and the Flaming Pearl, representations of which appear everywhere at the Palace on whatever is meant for Imperial use, or for any official function over which the Emperor is supposed to preside. It is on all the Thrones of the Dynasty; it adorns the Imperial pennant; it is cut into stone, carved into wood, and painted in pictures. It decorates the gowns of the higher officials, and is embroidered upon the Court dresses of the Ladies of the Palace. At the Birthdays of the Emperor and Empress, and at all Dynastic celebrations there are realistic representations of the immortal struggle where the Double Dragon strives to absorb the “flaming pearl.” The significance of the legend seems to be: The Double Dragon represents the Powers of Earth or Evil which try ever to absorb the Flaming Pearl, Emblem of the Dynasty, symbol of Heaven or Perfection. The Flaming Pearl, the Unattainable, keeps ever beyond 285 and above their grasp, seeming to serve always as an incentive for further effort.

After the torch-lit and lantern-lit processions, and the glowing displays, a pair of illuminated dragons writhed into the courtyard, struggling for the "flaming pearl," which darted around with elusive and fantastic movements, always just out of their reach. I couldn’t discover the origin of the Imperial legend of the Double Dragon and the Flaming Pearl, which can be seen everywhere at the Palace on anything designated for Imperial use or for any official event overseen by the Emperor. It is on all the thrones of the Dynasty; it decorates the Imperial flag; it’s carved into stone, sculpted from wood, and depicted in paintings. It embellishes the gowns of high officials and is embroidered on the Court dresses of the Palace ladies. During the birthdays of the Emperor and Empress, and at all Dynasty celebrations, there are realistic portrayals of the eternal struggle where the Double Dragon attempts to catch the "flaming pearl." The significance of the legend seems to be: The Double Dragon represents the forces of Earth or Evil that constantly try to absorb the Flaming Pearl, the emblem of the Dynasty, symbolizing Heaven or Perfection. The Flaming Pearl, the unattainable, remains always beyond and above their reach, seemingly serving as an incentive for further effort. 285

For a fortnight after the lantern festival, there were fireworks every night on the banks of the lake. We would dine in the Throne-room, and then Her Majesty and the Emperor, accompanied by the Ladies, and attended by the usual number of eunuchs (each bearing transparent horn lanterns), would go through the courts and paths of the garden to the lake, on the banks of which the fireworks were sent up. Here, in full view of the set pieces, stood four large, roomy sleds. When the lake was frozen, these sleds were used to push Their Majesties and the ladies over its glassy surface. They had not been used as sleds this winter, for the ice had not been sufficiently firm, the winter having been comparatively mild. But when the lake was well frozen, as is usual at this season in Peking, Their Majesties viewed the fireworks from these sleds as they skimmed along over its smooth surface. There was a sled for each of them—one for the Empress and second wife, and one for the Princesses. They were cloth-covered, lined with fur, and had great fur rugs. There were seats around the three sides; the wadded curtain, with its large square of plate-glass that hung down over the front, was taken off for the fireworks. Their Majesties occupied each of theirs alone, but the Empress had several of the Ladies in hers.

For two weeks after the lantern festival, there were fireworks every night by the lake. We would eat in the Throne Room, and then Her Majesty and the Emperor, with the Ladies, along with the usual number of eunuchs (each holding transparent horn lanterns), would walk through the courts and paths of the garden to the lake, where the fireworks were launched. Here, in full view of the displays, stood four large, spacious sleds. When the lake was frozen, these sleds were used to glide Their Majesties and the ladies across its smooth surface. They hadn't been used as sleds this winter because the ice wasn't strong enough; the winter had been relatively mild. But when the lake was properly frozen, as is typical at this time of year in Peking, Their Majesties watched the fireworks from these sleds as they glided over the smooth ice. Each of them had their own sled—one for the Empress and her second wife, and one for the Princesses. They were covered in cloth, lined with fur, and equipped with large fur rugs. There were seats around three sides; the padded curtain, with its large square of plate glass that hung down in front, was removed for the fireworks. Their Majesties each had their own sled, but the Empress had several Ladies with her.

The fireworks were superb. There were beautiful set pieces, pagodas, with ladies on balconies, pavilions with grapevines, wistaria arbors, and beds of flowers so lifelike they seemed to grow at the side of the 286 luminous cascades, and many other effects I had never seen before in fireworks. One day, during the time of the lantern festival, we had fireworks in the brilliant sunshine. When these day rockets exploded, all sorts of curious paper devices fell to the ground—fish dragons and animals, as well as flags and baskets. When anything interesting was revealed, Her Majesty would send the eunuchs to pick it up as it fell and bring it to her that she might examine it. Many fell outside the Palace walls, and she said these would give pleasure to the “poor people outside.”

The fireworks were amazing. There were stunning displays, pagodas with women on balconies, pavilions adorned with grapevines, wisteria arbors, and flower beds so realistic they looked like they were growing next to the 286 glowing cascades, along with many other effects I'd never seen before in fireworks. One day, during the lantern festival, we had fireworks in bright sunshine. When these daytime rockets went off, all kinds of interesting paper items fell to the ground—fish dragons, animals, as well as flags and baskets. Whenever something fascinating was revealed, Her Majesty would send the eunuchs to pick it up as it fell and bring it to her so she could check it out. Many landed outside the Palace walls, and she said these would bring joy to the “poor people outside.”

Formerly, at these fireworks in the Palace to celebrate the lantern festival, the public was admitted into the Inclosure, but this practice stopped when the two Empresses were Co-Regents for the first boy Emperor, Tung-Chih. As this was coincident with the establishment of the first Foreign Legations in Peking, the latter fact may have had some influence in changing the custom. The Chinese people were shut out because it was feared that the foreigners might also come into the Precincts. These beautiful fireworks I could enjoy without any qualms of conscience, for I could not paint at night, and they were consequently no interruption to my work.

Previously, during the fireworks at the Palace for the lantern festival, the public was allowed inside the enclosure, but this changed when the two Empresses were co-regents for the young Emperor, Tung-Chih. This coincided with the establishment of the first foreign legations in Peking, which may have influenced the change in this custom. The Chinese people were excluded because there was concern that foreigners might also enter the area. I could enjoy these beautiful fireworks without any guilt, as I couldn't paint at night, so they didn’t disrupt my work.

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CHAPTER XXXIII CONTINUATION OF THE ST. LOUIS PORTRAIT—SPRING DAYS AT THE SEA PALACE

There began now to be some discussion as to what would be the most propitious date for finishing the portrait. I had thought I might finish when I could, but this was not to be the case. The almanacs were consulted, and it was decided that the nineteenth day of April would be an auspicious time to finish and before four o’clock! The Empress Dowager informed me of the “happy augury” of this date and asked me if I thought it possible to finish then. Not only had the date for beginning the portrait been carefully chosen, but there was much deliberation as to the proper time for finishing! Her Majesty seemed very anxious until she received my reply as to whether it would be possible to finish at this happy date, for I could not say at first, as I had never thought of finishing at any particular moment! When I finally told her I could finish it before four o’clock, April 19th, she was delighted. She said “How good” and asked me to please “not disappoint her.” As the portrait neared completion she came very often to the studio and watched over the painting-in of all the accessories, which she seemed to consider quite as important as 288 the likeness itself. As she was tired after the Audiences, she gave me two or three sittings at this time before she went to the Audience Hall, and I painted from half-past six to eight A.M. for two or three days. The jewels in the head-dress, all official, were the subject of much deliberation. After a jewel was painted in, she would decide she didn’t like it and that something else would be better. She seemed to think it was as easy to take it from the picture as to remove it from her person. All these requests for changes were so graciously made, I never complained. She would sometimes say, “I am giving you a great deal of trouble, and you are very kind.” I didn’t mind the trouble, only these changes took away the freshness of the painting and did not add to the artistic effect of the picture.

There started to be some discussion about the best date to finish the portrait. I thought I could wrap it up whenever I wanted, but that wasn’t going to happen. They looked through the almanacs and decided that April 19th would be the perfect day to finish, and it had to be before four o’clock! The Empress Dowager told me about the “happy omen” of this date and asked if I thought I could complete it then. Not only was the start date for the portrait carefully chosen, but there was also a lot of thought put into the right time to finish! Her Majesty seemed quite anxious until I confirmed whether I could meet that date because I hadn’t considered finishing at a specific time. When I finally told her I could finish it before four o’clock on April 19th, she was thrilled. She said, “How wonderful” and asked me not to “disappoint her.” As the portrait neared completion, she visited the studio often to oversee the painting of all the details, which she seemed to view as just as important as the likeness itself. Since she was tired after the Audiences, she allowed me two or three sittings at this time before she went to the Audience Hall, and I painted from 6:30 to 8:00 A.M. for a few days. The jewels in the headpiece, all official, were the focus of a lot of discussion. After I painted a jewel in, she would often decide she didn’t like it and that something else would look better. She seemed to think it was just as easy to remove it from the painting as it was to take it off her person. All these requests for changes were made so graciously that I never complained. She would sometimes say, “I’m causing you a lot of trouble, and you’re very kind.” I didn’t mind the trouble; it was just that these changes took away some of the painting’s freshness and didn’t enhance the artistic effect of the picture. 288

Her Majesty ordered a magnificent frame for the portrait. She, herself, made the design. The Double Dragon at the top struggled for the “flaming pearl” with the character “Sho” on it. The sides were elaborately carved in designs representing the symbol of “ten thousand” years with the characters for longevity. The frame was to be set in a superbly carved stand, as the Chinese do their mirrors. The whole, of rare camphor-wood, was made by Her Majesty’s own artisans at the Palace—the most expert workmen in China.

Her Majesty commissioned an exquisite frame for the portrait. She designed it herself. At the top, the Double Dragon was wrestling for the "flaming pearl" with the character "Sho" on it. The sides were intricately carved with designs symbolizing "ten thousand" years, featuring characters for longevity. The frame was to be displayed on a beautifully carved stand, just like the Chinese do with their mirrors. The entire piece, made from rare camphor wood, was created by Her Majesty’s own artisans at the Palace—the most skilled craftsmen in China.

The days were lengthening now, the trees beginning to bud and the flowers in the courts to bloom. The icy fetters that had locked the lake were broken; the boats again glided over its bosom. In the mornings we no longer had to take the winter “chairs” 289 and be carried the long distance from the gates to the Throne-room. The comfortable boats once more lay moored at the foot of the landing-steps, just within the gates, and we enjoyed again those ideal trips across the lake.

The days were getting longer now, the trees starting to bud and the flowers in the courtyards blooming. The icy chains that had kept the lake frozen were gone; the boats were once again gliding over its surface. In the mornings, we no longer had to take the winter “chairs” 289 and be carried the long distance from the gates to the Throne-room. The comfy boats were back, moored at the base of the landing steps, just inside the gates, and we enjoyed those perfect trips across the lake again.

The Empress Dowager began to take long promenades now and was much out-of-doors. Sometimes in the mornings, on our arrival, she would already be in the gardens. One day we met her on the banks of the lake and made our morning salutations there. Another day, she and the Emperor were inspecting the new buildings which were being erected to replace those burned during the occupation of Peking by the Allies, when Count von Waldersee had his headquarters in the Sea Palace. Splendid buildings were being erected on the site of those burned. The Emperor and Empress Dowager, each with his own suite, carefully visited every part of these new constructions and seemed much interested in their progress. Of course, the workmen were banished during the visit of Their Majesties. One of these new halls was to be used for the entertainment of foreigners, when they are invited to the Palace, and many concessions had been made to foreign ideas in its construction. Let us hope it may not lose its Chinese character! I am sure the foreigners will regret this innovation and would prefer the typical Chinese interior, even though it be less suited to the exigencies of a modern reception.

The Empress Dowager started taking long walks and spent a lot of time outdoors. Sometimes in the mornings, when we arrived, she would already be in the gardens. One day we saw her by the lake and greeted her there. Another day, she and the Emperor were checking out the new buildings being constructed to replace those that were burned during the Allies’ occupation of Peking when Count von Waldersee had his headquarters at the Sea Palace. Impressive buildings were going up on the site of the ones that had burned down. The Emperor and Empress Dowager, each accompanied by their own entourage, carefully toured every part of these new constructions and seemed very interested in their progress. Naturally, the workers had to be removed during Their Majesties' visit. One of these new halls was intended for hosting foreigners when they are invited to the Palace, and many concessions had been made to foreign ideas in its design. Let’s hope it doesn’t lose its Chinese character! I’m sure the foreigners will miss this change and would prefer a typical Chinese interior, even if it’s less suited to modern hosting needs.

Sometimes we would see the Empress Dowager in her Japanese “jinricksha.” This was a beautiful, gold-lacquered affair in dragon form, the two dragons’ heads in front. It had splendid gold-lacquered shafts 290 and wheels—the latter with rubber tires. It was pulled by one eunuch and pushed by another, and Her Majesty seemed greatly to enjoy this novelty for a while, but she said she preferred to walk or to be carried in her open chair, as a usual thing.

Sometimes we would see the Empress Dowager in her Japanese “jinricksha.” It was a beautiful, gold-lacquered carriage shaped like a dragon, with the heads of two dragons at the front. It had impressive gold-lacquered shafts 290 and wheels, which had rubber tires. One eunuch pulled it while another pushed it, and Her Majesty seemed to enjoy this novelty for a bit, but she said she usually preferred to walk or to be carried in her open chair.

Two other modern and novel methods of locomotion had been installed in the grounds of the Sea Palace. There was a small railway, which ran from the outer gates to the dwelling Palaces, which had its engine and complete running outfit. This had been constructed by some progressive Mandarins, who wished to get the Empress Dowager’s support for some railway scheme, but though she often spoke of how much she had enjoyed her one trip on a real railway, her spirit was too utilitarian to care for toy pleasures. She couldn’t stand the puffing of the engine, the tiny cars, and all this trouble for so short and useless a jaunt.

Two other modern and innovative ways to get around had been set up on the grounds of the Sea Palace. There was a small railway that ran from the outer gates to the main residences, complete with its own engine and full set of equipment. This had been built by some forward-thinking Mandarins who wanted to gain the Empress Dowager’s backing for a railway project. Although she often mentioned how much she enjoyed her one trip on a real train, her practical nature made her indifferent to such trivial delights. She couldn’t stand the puffing of the engine, the small cars, and all the hassle for such a short and pointless journey.

There was also in the Sea Palace, as well as at the Summer Palace, a number of automobiles, which had been presented to Their Majesties by Chinese nobles and officials who had been abroad, as examples of the curiosities of European civilization. One of these was gorgeously fitted up in the Imperial yellow and gold lacquer, with the Double Dragon. The body was inclosed in glass and there was a throne-like seat within for the Empress Dowager. The question of how the chauffeur should run the machine standing, as he would be obliged to do if Her Majesty were inside, had not then been solved. She was, however, willing to throw tradition to the winds in this instance, and was most anxious to try one of these motor-cars. Her entourage was, however, bitterly opposed to it, even for 291 a short distance in the grounds. They were afraid of an accident. She never tried one while I was there, but I am confident that her venturesome spirit will not rest content until she has had a ride in one of these modern carriages.

There were also in the Sea Palace, as well as at the Summer Palace, several cars that had been gifted to Their Majesties by Chinese nobles and officials who had traveled abroad, showcasing the marvels of European civilization. One of these was beautifully designed in Imperial yellow and gold lacquer, featuring the Double Dragon. The body was enclosed in glass, and there was a throne-like seat inside for the Empress Dowager. The issue of how the driver should operate the vehicle while standing, as he would need to do if Her Majesty were inside, had not been figured out yet. However, she was willing to set tradition aside in this case and was very eager to try one of these motorcars. Her entourage, though, was strongly against it, even for a short distance within the grounds. They were scared of an accident. She never got to try one while I was there, but I am sure that her adventurous spirit won’t be satisfied until she gets a ride in one of these modern vehicles. 291

In April, kite-flying time begins in China. High Officials and dignified literati indulge in the pastime as well as children and young people. The popular pastimes of the people, as well as their serious occupations, being always honored in the Palace, kites were, of course, sent off by the Empress Dowager and the Ladies. The first day the kites were to be flown Her Majesty sent for me to come into the garden, where the kite-flying was to take place. The kites were of paper, wonderfully fashioned, representing birds, fish, bats, and even personages. The strings were wound on curiously shaped reels and the cleverness with which Her Majesty let out the string and manipulated the kites was wonderful. After she had let one go, she graciously handed me her own reel and told me she would teach me to fly a kite. I was hard at work at my painting when I was called out into the garden and I wished to return to it as soon as possible; and as I knew I would not be very clever at kite-flying, I begged her to allow me to watch her instead. The young Empress and Princesses were also very proficient in flying them, and Her Majesty flew hers as she did everything else, with unusual grace.

In April, it's kite-flying season in China. High officials and respected scholars enjoy this pastime, just like kids and young people do. Since the interests of the people, whether for fun or serious work, are always celebrated in the Palace, the kites were naturally released by the Empress Dowager and the ladies. On the first day of kite-flying, Her Majesty called me to the garden where it was happening. The kites were made of beautifully crafted paper, shaped like birds, fish, bats, and even figures. The strings were wound on uniquely designed reels, and it was impressive to see how skillfully Her Majesty let out the string and controlled the kites. After she launched one, she kindly handed me her reel and offered to teach me how to fly a kite. I was really focused on my painting when I was invited to the garden, and I wanted to get back to it as soon as I could. Knowing that I probably wouldn't be very good at kite-flying, I asked her if I could just watch instead. The young Empress and Princesses were also very skilled at flying kites, and Her Majesty handled hers with the same unique grace with which she approached everything else.

One of these beautiful spring mornings as we were softly gliding across the lake, propelled by the graceful Palace boatmen, I lay back on my cushions reveling in the scene of quiet loveliness before me and 292 drinking in the ineffable perfume of the spring, when my glance, roaming lazily around in perfect content, caught sight of a group of gentlemen on the bank of the lake beyond. The rays of the morning sun, glinting upon the gold of their embroidered costumes and touching, with iridescent rays, the peacock’s feathers upon their hats, revealed their rank and official standing.

One beautiful spring morning, as we glided gently across the lake, guided by the skilled Palace boatmen, I leaned back on my cushions, enjoying the scene of serene beauty around me and inhaling the indescribable scent of spring. As my gaze wandered lazily in peaceful satisfaction, I spotted a group of gentlemen on the bank of the lake. The morning sun’s rays reflected off the gold embroidery of their outfits and illuminated the peacock feathers on their hats, highlighting their status and official standing. 292

As it was a most unusual thing to see gentlemen in the Palace Inclosure, I was at once all attention, knowing there must be some important event on hand, especially as, on looking closer, I saw one small figure in their midst more plainly dressed than the others, whom I at once recognized as His Majesty the Emperor. As we slowly approached I saw the Emperor go over to a plow to which was hitched an ox, and which stood at a little distance off in the field. Fortune favored me! I was to see the Emperor plow the first furrow of the year! For it was only on the morrow that the official public ceremony was to take place at the Temple of Agriculture, near the great triple altar of Heaven. I was to see the private plowing, done in the Palace grounds and viewed only by the Princes of the Imperial Family and the highest Manchu nobles.

As it was quite unusual to see gentlemen in the Palace Inclosure, I immediately became attentive, realizing there had to be some important event happening, especially since, upon closer inspection, I noticed one figure among them dressed more simply than the others, whom I recognized right away as His Majesty the Emperor. As we slowly drew closer, I watched the Emperor walk over to a plow that was hitched to an ox, standing a short distance away in the field. Luck was on my side! I was about to witness the Emperor plow the first furrow of the year! The official public ceremony was scheduled for the next day at the Temple of Agriculture, near the magnificent triple altar of Heaven. I was to see the private plowing, taking place in the Palace grounds and observed only by the Princes of the Imperial Family and the top Manchu nobles.

When all was ready the Emperor took the handles of the plow and guided it down a furrow marked off the ground, and when the furrow was upturned, the seed was dropped in. The ox for this ceremony, which I had heard was white, was (at the Palace function) of a soft doe color. He seemed to have been trained for the purpose and performed his part with a dignity in 293 harmony with the attitude of all the assistants and in keeping with the solemnity of the occasion.

When everything was prepared, the Emperor took hold of the plow and led it down a furrow marked on the ground. Once the furrow was turned over, the seed was dropped in. The ox for this ceremony, which I had heard was supposed to be white, was actually a soft brown color at the Palace event. It seemed to be trained for this purpose and did its job with a dignity that matched the demeanor of all the helpers and fit the seriousness of the occasion. 293

I was rejoiced to have an opportunity of seeing this interesting ceremony and to learn that even this great rite, which I had thought, like the sacrifice to the Invisible Deity on the triple altar, was only performed in the grounds of the Temple to Heaven; and to learn that every custom dear to the people, or incorporated in the National life, is observed in the Palace by the Emperor and Empress—that His Majesty really plants the first furrow of the year and gathers the first sheaves of ripened wheat, and that the Ladies of the Palace really spin the first silk and pull the first fruits.

I was thrilled to have the chance to witness this fascinating ceremony and to discover that even this significant ritual, which I had assumed, like the sacrifice to the Invisible Deity at the triple altar, was only carried out at the Temple of Heaven, is actually observed in the Palace by the Emperor and Empress. I learned that His Majesty truly plants the first furrow of the year and harvests the first sheaves of ripe wheat, and that the Ladies of the Palace genuinely spin the first silk and pick the first fruits.

The slow movement of the Palace boats was never so appreciated by me as on this morning, for I was thus enabled to see well this curious National ceremony, which I would never have seen but for the accident of the hour of my crossing the lake and the time it took to do so; for, as at all ceremonies where men are present, there were, of course, no members of Her Majesty’s entourage, and none of the Ladies or Princesses had ever seen this ceremony!

The slow movement of the Palace boats has never meant as much to me as it did this morning because it allowed me to witness this unique National ceremony, which I wouldn’t have seen if it weren’t for the timing of my crossing the lake and how long it took; since, like all ceremonies with men present, there were no members of Her Majesty’s entourage, and none of the Ladies or Princesses had ever witnessed this ceremony!

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CHAPTER XXXIV FINALIZING AND SENDING THE PORTRAIT

The nineteenth day of April was approaching, and the portrait steadily advancing. As it neared completion Her Majesty’s interest in it seemed to grow. She spent a great deal of time in my pavilion watching its progress, and expressed herself as much delighted with it. A few days before the nineteenth, I asked Her Majesty to allow Mrs. Conger to come and see it on that day. She immediately consented, and invitations were sent through the Foreign Office, not only to Mrs. Conger, but to the wives of the Ministers and First Secretaries of Legations to come to the Palace on the nineteenth day of April, for the purpose of “seeing the portrait of Her Imperial Majesty, the Empress Dowager, painted by the American artist.”

The nineteenth of April was coming up, and the portrait was making steady progress. As it got closer to completion, Her Majesty seemed to take more interest in it. She spent a lot of time in my pavilion watching it come together and expressed how delighted she was with it. A few days before the nineteenth, I asked Her Majesty if Mrs. Conger could come and see it on that day. She immediately agreed, and invitations were sent through the Foreign Office, not just to Mrs. Conger, but also to the wives of the Ministers and First Secretaries of Legations to come to the Palace on the nineteenth of April, to “see the portrait of Her Imperial Majesty, the Empress Dowager, painted by the American artist.”

The ladies of the Legation, of course, responded to the invitation, and on the morning of the nineteenth the portrait was placed in the splendid frame. Her Majesty decided she would receive the ladies first in her Throne-room, after which they were to come to my studio to see the portrait. As I was still working until the “fateful hour,” I did not go up to the Throne-room but awaited the ladies in my own place. Her 295 Majesty did not accompany the ladies when they came to see the portrait, but she sent the young Empress and Princesses to my pavilion to assist me in receiving and to lend a proper dignity to the occasion. The portrait, in a Chinese milieu, and seen in the light in which it was painted, made a better effect than it could in any other surroundings. The ladies were, of course, much interested in seeing this long-talked-of picture—the first ever painted of Her Majesty—and the novelty of the precedent, as well as the interest of a visit to the Palace, favorably predisposed them, and they expressed themselves as most interested in the work, finding it a good likeness. The admiration it received from the young Empress and the Ladies of the Court was almost embarrassing, and the eunuchs said it was so lifelike when they passed the windows that it inspired the same awe Her Majesty’s own presence did.

The ladies of the Legation definitely accepted the invitation, and on the morning of the nineteenth, the portrait was placed in the beautiful frame. Her Majesty decided to receive the ladies first in her Throne-room, after which they would come to my studio to see the portrait. Since I was still working until the “fateful hour,” I didn’t go up to the Throne-room but waited for the ladies in my own space. Her 295 Majesty didn’t join the ladies when they came to see the portrait, but she sent the young Empress and Princesses to my pavilion to help me host and give the event the proper dignity. The portrait, set in a Chinese context and viewed in the light it was painted in, looked more impressive than it would have in any other surroundings. The ladies were naturally very interested in seeing this much-discussed picture—the first ever painted of Her Majesty—and the novelty of the event, along with the excitement of a visit to the Palace, put them in a positive mood. They expressed their keen interest in the work, calling it a good likeness. The praise it received from the young Empress and the Ladies of the Court was almost overwhelming, and the eunuchs remarked that it looked so lifelike when they passed by the windows that it inspired the same awe as Her Majesty’s own presence.

After the ladies had duly looked at and commented upon the portrait, they repaired to one of the halls in connection with my studio, where a repast had been prepared by the orders of Her Majesty. Here, for the first and only time, while I was in the Palace, the young Empress sat down at the table with the foreign ladies, and acted as hostess, and very gracefully she filled her rôle.

After the ladies had properly examined and commented on the portrait, they went to one of the halls connected to my studio, where a meal had been arranged by Her Majesty. Here, for the first and only time while I was in the Palace, the young Empress sat down at the table with the foreign ladies and played the role of hostess, and she did it very gracefully.

After the visit of the ladies of the Legation, Her Majesty informed me that the Princes and nobles, whose rank entitled them to enter the Palace Inclosure, were to come to see it the following day. As it would not have been “according to the Proprieties” for gentlemen to enter the quarters reserved for ladies, 296 or the buildings where even a foreign lady worked, the portrait was, for their visit, carried out into the open court of my pavilion.

After the visit from the ladies of the Legation, Her Majesty let me know that the princes and nobles, who had the rank to enter the Palace grounds, would come to see it the next day. Since it wouldn’t have been “proper” for gentlemen to enter the areas reserved for ladies, 296 or the buildings where even a foreign lady was working, the portrait was taken out to the open court of my pavilion for their visit.

To place the portrait in its carved pedestal, it was necessary to erect a scaffolding by which the framed picture was raised into the air, and then lowered into its stand. When all was finally arranged, the scaffolding was removed, the debris cleared away, and the Princes and nobles, in full dress, came into the court to see the portrait. Each one approached the picture and closely examined it, even touching the canvas. Unfortunately, I could not hear their comments, as I only saw the ceremony discreetly ensconced behind a curtain, but I could watch their faces and study their expressions, though I must confess that they revealed very little.

To place the portrait on its carved pedestal, they had to set up scaffolding to lift the framed picture into the air and then lower it into position. Once everything was finally arranged, the scaffolding was taken down, the debris cleared away, and the princes and nobles, dressed to the nines, entered the court to view the portrait. Each one approached the painting, examining it closely, even touching the canvas. Unfortunately, I couldn’t hear their comments since I was discreetly hidden behind a curtain during the ceremony, but I could see their faces and study their expressions, though I have to admit they revealed very little.

A young Manchu, who had been attached to a Legation abroad and had learned photography in an amateur way, had been ordered by Her Majesty to make a photograph of the portrait. This was done while the Princes and nobles were still in the court. When it was photographed, and the Princes had retired, the scaffolding was again put up, the picture was raised out of its carved wood pedestal and was replaced in my studio. All this took the greater part of the day.

A young Manchu, who had been assigned to an embassy overseas and had picked up photography as a hobby, was instructed by Her Majesty to take a photograph of the portrait. This was done while the princes and nobles were still at the court. Once the photograph was taken and the princes had left, the scaffolding was put up again, the picture was lifted out of its intricately carved wooden pedestal, and it was moved back to my studio. This process took most of the day.

Her Majesty was so pleased with the comments she heard upon the portrait (of course no unfavorable ones were made to her), that she decided to accede to the prayers of several of the high officials, and allow the Sacred Picture to be viewed by a number of other high functionaries. For this purpose, the portrait 297 was removed to the Wai-Wu-Pu (Foreign Office); for many of the highest Officials are not permitted to enter the Palace Inclosure.

Her Majesty was so pleased with the comments she heard about the portrait (of course, no negative ones were said to her) that she decided to agree to the requests of several high officials and let a few other high-ranking officials view the Sacred Picture. For this purpose, the portrait 297 was moved to the Wai-Wu-Pu (Foreign Office), since many of the top officials are not allowed to enter the Palace grounds.

At the Foreign Office, not only the high Chinese Officials, but the foreign Ministers and their staffs were invited to see it. Many of the foreigners went in full dress uniform for this visit, in deference to Chinese prejudices. After it had been duly viewed by all in Peking of sufficient rank to have that honor, it was inclosed in a satin-lined camphor-wood box, covered with satin of Imperial yellow, and the box was closed with great solemnity. The pedestal was placed in a similar box. Each had splendid bronze handles and huge circular locks. These boxes were inclosed in others, also lined with the Imperial color, and were finally ready for shipment. The packing-cases, containing the framed picture and its carved pedestal, were placed upon a flat freight car, which had been elaborately decorated with red and yellow festoons of silk. The boxes were covered with yellow cloth, painted with the Double Dragon. A special railway had been laid from the Wai-Wu-Pu to the station outside the Chien-Mên, for it was not considered fitting that ordinary bearers transport the picture of Her Majesty.

At the Foreign Office, not only high-ranking Chinese officials but also foreign ministers and their teams were invited to see it. Many of the foreign guests showed up in full dress uniform for this visit, out of respect for Chinese customs. After it had been appropriately viewed by all those in Peking who were deemed worthy of that privilege, it was placed in a satin-lined camphor-wood box covered in Imperial yellow satin, and the box was closed with great ceremony. The pedestal was also put in a similar box. Each had beautiful bronze handles and large circular locks. These boxes were wrapped in others that were also lined with the Imperial color, and were finally ready for shipment. The packing cases, containing the framed picture and its carved pedestal, were put on a flat freight car, which was beautifully decorated with red and yellow silk garlands. The boxes were draped in yellow cloth, painted with the Double Dragon. A special railway line was built from the Wai-Wu-Pu to the station outside the Chien-Mên, as it was considered improper for ordinary porters to carry the picture of Her Majesty.

The Officials of the Wai-Wu-Pu, as well as many other of the high Officials in Peking, dressed in full dress, accompanied it to the station, and stood to watch the Sacred Picture start off on its long journey to St. Louis. The special train carrying it was met at Tientsin by the Viceroy of the Province, surrounded by all his official staff. It was there placed with great 298 ceremony upon the steamer on which it was to make the journey to Shanghai, and was accompanied from Peking to Shanghai by an official specially appointed for the purpose.

The officials of the Wai-Wu-Pu, along with many other high-ranking officials in Beijing, were dressed in formal attire and accompanied the Sacred Picture to the station, watching it depart on its long journey to St. Louis. The special train carrying it was greeted in Tianjin by the Viceroy of the Province, who was surrounded by his entire official staff. There, it was ceremoniously placed on the steamer that would take it to Shanghai and was accompanied from Beijing to Shanghai by an official specifically appointed for this task. 298

At Shanghai it was received in the same formal state and with the same official pomp as at Tientsin. It was met at the steamer by the Governor of the Province and all his staff and transhipped with great ceremony to one of the Pacific Mail Steamers for San Francisco. The Sacred Picture was accompanied on its journey from Shanghai to St. Louis by a high Official and his suite. A special car conveyed it from San Francisco to St. Louis.

At Shanghai, it was welcomed with the same formality and official splendor as in Tientsin. The Governor of the Province and his entire staff met it at the steamer and it was ceremoniously transferred to one of the Pacific Mail Steamers heading to San Francisco. The Sacred Picture was accompanied on its journey from Shanghai to St. Louis by a high-ranking official and his entourage. It was transported in a special car from San Francisco to St. Louis.

His Imperial Highness Prince Pu L’un, Imperial Commissioner and personal representative of Their Majesties at the Exposition of St. Louis, awaited the arrival of the portrait there, delaying his departure for several days in order to be able himself to assist at the reception and placing of the portrait. At four o’clock on the afternoon of the 19th of June, His Imperial Highness and the Imperial Chinese Commission repaired to the Art Gallery, where the cases containing the portrait and pedestal were awaiting their presence to be opened. The Director of the Art Gallery, the Assistant Director, and several other members of the Board of Fine Arts, were also present.

His Imperial Highness Prince Pu L’un, the Imperial Commissioner and personal representative of Their Majesties at the St. Louis Exposition, waited for the portrait to arrive, postponing his departure for several days so he could personally attend the reception and installation of the portrait. At four o’clock in the afternoon on June 19th, His Imperial Highness and the Imperial Chinese Commission went to the Art Gallery, where the cases containing the portrait and pedestal were ready to be opened. The Director of the Art Gallery, the Assistant Director, and several other members of the Board of Fine Arts were also there.

The cases containing the portrait, one within the other, were opened, and finally within the last, lined with yellow silk, lay the “Sacred Picture,” covered with a screen of brocaded satin of Imperial hue. This satin cover was ceremoniously removed, and the picture was “unveiled.” The Prince proposed the health of Her Majesty and the Prosperity of China, which 299 the assistants drank in sparkling champagne. This opening of the cases and unveiling of the picture lasted from four o’clock to nine P.M. A few days later, when the Gallery where it was placed was opened to the public, it lost, for the first time since its inception, its semi-sacred qualities. Only then did it stand upon its own merits and become as other portraits. Then, for the first time, it could be seen by the ordinary individual—then only it became the subject of comment as any other picture at the Fair. Then it was open to the gaze of the vulgar and the comment of the scoffer.

The cases holding the portrait, nested inside one another, were opened, and finally, in the last one, lined with yellow silk, lay the “Sacred Picture,” covered with a brocaded satin screen in Imperial colors. This satin cover was ceremoniously taken off, and the picture was “unveiled.” The Prince raised a toast to Her Majesty and the Prosperity of China, which 299 the attendees drank in sparkling champagne. The opening of the cases and the unveiling of the picture took from four o’clock to nine P.M. A few days later, when the Gallery where it was displayed was opened to the public, it lost, for the first time since it was created, its semi-sacred qualities. Only then did it stand on its own merits and become like other portraits. For the first time, it could be seen by the general public—only then did it become a topic of discussion just like any other picture at the Fair. At that point, it was subject to the gaze of the masses and the comments of the cynics.

At the close of the Exposition, a delegate was sent from the Chinese Legation in Washington to arrange for the transportation of the picture to the latter place. The portrait and its carved support were again placed in their satin-lined cases, and it began the journey to Washington. Her Majesty had decided when the portrait was completed to her satisfaction that it would be a suitable present for her to make to the United States. She thought this would be particularly appropriate, as the painting of the portrait for the St. Louis Exposition had been thought of by the wife of the American Minister to Peking, and as it had been executed by an American artist. Thus the United States received the gift of the first portrait ever painted of a Chinese Ruler.

At the end of the Exposition, a delegate was sent from the Chinese Legation in Washington to organize the transportation of the portrait back to Washington. The portrait and its carved stand were placed in their satin-lined cases again, and the journey to Washington began. Her Majesty had decided that once the portrait was finished to her satisfaction, it would be a fitting gift for her to give to the United States. She thought this was especially appropriate since the idea for the portrait for the St. Louis Exposition came from the wife of the American Minister to Peking, and it was created by an American artist. Therefore, the United States received the first portrait ever painted of a Chinese Ruler as a gift.

When the portrait arrived in Washington, His Excellency Sir Chentung Liang Cheng, the Chinese Minister to Washington, attended by his Secretaries, made a formal presentation of the portrait to the President, which Mr. Roosevelt received on behalf of the United States Government.

When the portrait arrived in Washington, His Excellency Sir Chentung Liang Cheng, the Chinese Minister to Washington, along with his Secretaries, formally presented the portrait to the President, which Mr. Roosevelt accepted on behalf of the United States Government.

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CHAPTER XXXV Return to the Summer Palace

Sending off the picture to St. Louis did not sever my connection with the Palace, for I had still other work to finish! At the end of April, a month later than usual, the Court moved out to the Summer Palace for the rest of the year. The country was beautiful, the trees were almost in full leaf, and lilacs, blue and white, bloomed everywhere. My garden in the Park of the Palace of the Emperor’s Father was full of them, and over my entrance gate clambered a beautiful yellow rose-bush laden with masses of blooms. Wild flowers were springing up at every turn, and my dog “Me-lah” in his wild races through the park, when we were out for our walks, would often start up coveys of birds; or rabbits would scurry away at his approach. I went back to my favorite haunts in the park, to the summer-house, where upon the threshold, cut in stone, lay the plaint of the Seventh Prince! It was a delightful change to be in this beautiful spot after the four months in Peking, and to see Nature everywhere budding into perfection. The grounds of the Summer Palace were one maze of delight. The peonies in all their royal splendor, the fragrant lilac, the stately magnolia, and the budding 301 elms, each added their charm to this beautiful spot, where everything was lovely. I could not wonder at the Empress Dowager’s desire to come back again to all this beauty.

Sending the picture to St. Louis didn’t end my connection with the Palace because I still had more work to do! At the end of April, a month later than usual, the Court moved to the Summer Palace for the rest of the year. The countryside was stunning, the trees were almost fully leafed out, and lilacs in blue and white bloomed everywhere. My garden in the Park of the Emperor’s Father was full of them, and over my entrance gate climbed a beautiful yellow rose bush bursting with blooms. Wildflowers were popping up at every turn, and my dog “Me-lah,” in his energetic runs around the park during our walks, would often flush out flocks of birds or chase rabbits away. I returned to my favorite spots in the park, including the summer house, where on the threshold, engraved in stone, lay the lament of the Seventh Prince! It was such a refreshing change to be in this gorgeous place after four months in Peking, witnessing Nature transform into perfection everywhere. The grounds of the Summer Palace were a delightful maze. The peonies in their royal glory, the fragrant lilacs, the majestic magnolias, and the budding elms each added their charm to this beautiful location, where everything was lovely. I could understand why the Empress Dowager was eager to return to all this beauty.

A charming studio was fitted up for me at the Summer Palace on our return. Her Majesty saw how much more satisfactory it was for me to have a proper place to work in, where I would be undisturbed, and even had she not seen the utility of a studio, I think she would have granted my request for one, for she was always kind and considerate. Upper windows of plate-glass were put into the north side of one of His Majesty’s Throne-rooms, behind the Imperial loge. It looked over a charming terrace of the garden. The days were long, and it was a delight to live and breathe, and the quiet of the studio, where I could work at leisure, made me resume my work with renewed vigor.

A lovely studio was set up for me at the Summer Palace when we got back. Her Majesty realized how much better it was for me to have a proper space to work in where I wouldn’t be disturbed, and even if she hadn’t seen the need for a studio, I believe she would have agreed to my request since she was always kind and thoughtful. Large plate-glass windows were installed on the north side of one of His Majesty’s Throne rooms, just behind the Imperial loge. It overlooked a beautiful garden terrace. The days were long, and it was wonderful to live and breathe; the tranquility of the studio, where I could work at my own pace, revived my energy and motivation.

I began at once to finish up the small sketch of the St. Louis portrait, which Her Majesty wished to keep, and then to put the final touches on the two portraits begun at the Summer Palace. The Throne-room that was now my studio had only one disadvantage. It was so near the Theater that on theater days I could hear the music and the voices of the actors. And on those days, the court outside my windows was filled all day with eunuchs and Their Majesties’ attendants, moving to and fro. I decided if it was necessary for me to go into Peking at any time, to take a “Theater day” to do so.

I immediately started to finish up the small sketch of the St. Louis portrait that Her Majesty wanted to keep, and then I added the final touches to the two portraits I had started at the Summer Palace. The Throne-room, which was now my studio, had only one downside. It was so close to the Theater that on performance days, I could hear the music and the actors' voices. On those days, the courtyard outside my windows was filled all day with eunuchs and Their Majesties’ attendants coming and going. I decided that if I ever needed to go into Peking, I would plan it for a “Theater day.”

One Theater day I did go into Peking, and on my return to the Summer Palace the next day I found 302 that His Majesty the Emperor had taken advantage of my absence to occupy his Throne-room the day before, for I found his Theater program, distinguishable by being written on Imperial yellow paper, and he had also left a few papers scattered around with characters and phrases written with the “Vermilion Pencil,” which may only be used by His Majesty. On one paper he had evidently been trying to draw a plan of the part of Manchuria where the war operations were then being carried on. He had also drawn a part of the Great Wall of China, and the dividing line between China and Manchuria.

One day I went into Beijing, and when I returned to the Summer Palace the next day, I found 302 that His Majesty the Emperor had taken advantage of my absence to occupy his Throne room the day before. I discovered his Theater program, which was written on Imperial yellow paper, and there were a few papers scattered around with characters and phrases written with the “Vermilion Pencil,” which only His Majesty can use. On one paper, he was clearly trying to sketch a plan of the part of Manchuria where the war operations were happening at that time. He had also drawn a section of the Great Wall of China and the border between China and Manchuria.

So the Emperor, notwithstanding his stoical smile, his apparent unconcern, was not indifferent to affairs in Manchuria. He was watching the course of events there, and he probably worried and grieved as much as even the Empress Dowager, about what might be the result for China. He had probably schooled himself to appear indifferent. The ceremonies and festivals at the Palace had been going on as usual, but the two central figures of all these functions had their own secret anxieties and cares. The Emperor was following the campaign in Manchuria, and the Empress Dowager was probably planning and thinking of the best course for China to follow.

So the Emperor, despite his calm smile and seeming indifference, was actually paying close attention to what was happening in Manchuria. He was keeping an eye on the events unfolding there, likely worrying and grieving just as much as the Empress Dowager about the potential impact on China. He had probably trained himself to seem unconcerned. The ceremonies and festivals at the Palace continued as always, but both of the main figures at these events were dealing with their own hidden fears and worries. The Emperor was following the campaign in Manchuria, while the Empress Dowager was likely strategizing and considering the best path for China.

In May, the Empress Dowager had another Garden Party for the ladies of the Legation, at which she, as usual, asked me to assist. When I went into the Audience Hall for this reception, a few moments before the ladies were to arrive, Her Majesty, after greeting me and scanning my toilet, which was all in gray without any color, took a pink peony from a vase at 303 hand, and pinned it on my dress, saying I needed a little color. I had just finished the largest of the other three portraits I had painted at the Summer Palace, and Her Majesty told me she liked it so much that she had decided to show it to the foreign ladies at this Garden Party. As I had heard nothing of this plan before leaving my studio that morning, I had made no preparations for it. The picture was on my easel, unframed, and I told her I would prefer it to be placed in its frame, before it was shown. This frame, designed also by the Empress Dowager, and made by the Palace workmen, was a magnificent piece of work, elaborately carved and beautiful in form. It was in the natural color of teakwood, and this quiet tone admirably set off the vivid color of the gown and accessories, and was a great improvement to the picture. When she heard what were my wishes on the subject, Her Majesty said she would see that the picture was placed in the frame, and it was arranged that as soon as I had finished my luncheon, I would return to the studio and overlook things myself, and arrange the portrait as I wished.

In May, the Empress Dowager hosted another Garden Party for the ladies of the Legation, and as usual, she asked me to help out. Just before the ladies arrived, I walked into the Audience Hall, and after greeting me and checking out my outfit, which was all gray and without any color, Her Majesty took a pink peony from a vase and pinned it to my dress, saying I needed a pop of color. I had just completed the largest of the three portraits I had painted at the Summer Palace, and Her Majesty told me she liked it so much that she decided to show it to the foreign ladies at this Garden Party. Since I hadn’t heard about this plan before leaving my studio that morning, I hadn’t prepared for it. The painting was on my easel, unframed, and I told her I’d prefer it to be placed in its frame before being shown. This frame, also designed by the Empress Dowager and made by Palace craftsmen, was stunning, intricately carved, and beautiful in design. It was made from natural teakwood, and this subtle tone beautifully complemented the vivid colors of the gown and accessories, enhancing the picture significantly. When she heard my wishes regarding this, Her Majesty said she would ensure the painting was placed in the frame, and we arranged that right after I finished my lunch, I would return to the studio to oversee everything and set up the portrait as I wished.

The Audience passed off as usual. Immediately after luncheon the ladies were invited to go to the studio to see the portrait. The Empress Dowager had evidently forgotten about my wish to go there first, and as she herself, contrary to all precedent, led the way, followed by the ladies, I could not, of course, precede her. I had not thought that she would make such an innovation as to, herself, accompany the ladies to the studio. I felt greatly honored, but I feared the eunuchs had not arranged things as they 304 should be, and knew I could do nothing with Her Majesty present, and what was my chagrin on reaching the hall in the wake of the Empress Dowager and the ladies, to find that the portrait, though placed in the frame as I had desired, was in the center of the narrow hall, and every window on both sides had been opened to its widest extent, and the light came in from all sides! I had shut off all the lights of this hall, except the double windows to the north, where I had the upper glasses put in, and this is where the picture should have been placed, but as Her Majesty’s Throne always occupies the center of the Throne-rooms, the eunuchs evidently thought that was the proper place for her portrait when on exhibition. As the halls are narrow in proportion to their length, no one could get further off than four feet from this life-size portrait. This, added to the cross-lights, was heartrending. I was in despair. Her Majesty’s presence prevented my ordering the eunuchs to change the position of the portrait, and, besides, every one had already seen it! The ladies, who could not do otherwise than express their admiration in the presence of both the August Subject and the artist, duly praised the portrait. Her Majesty, who knew how it looked in its proper light, and who only glanced at it here, did not realize at what a disadvantage it appeared, and was perfectly satisfied with the effect.

The audience went as usual. Right after lunch, the ladies were invited to the studio to see the portrait. The Empress Dowager seemed to have forgotten my request to go there first, and since she led the way, breaking tradition, followed by the ladies, I couldn’t go ahead of her. I hadn’t expected her to accompany the ladies to the studio like this. I felt very honored, but I worried that the eunuchs hadn’t arranged things properly. 304 To my dismay, when I entered the hall behind the Empress Dowager and the ladies, I found that the portrait, although in the frame as I wanted, was in the center of the narrow hall, and every window on both sides was wide open, flooding the space with light! I had turned off all the lights in this hall except the double windows to the north, where I had upper glass installed, and that was where the picture should have been placed. However, since Her Majesty’s Throne always occupies the center of the Throne-rooms, the eunuchs must have thought that was the right place for her portrait during the exhibition. Because the halls are narrow compared to their length, no one could get more than four feet away from this life-sized portrait. This, combined with the harsh lighting, was heartbreaking. I was in despair. Her Majesty's presence stopped me from asking the eunuchs to move the portrait, and besides, everyone had already seen it! The ladies, unable to do anything but show their admiration in front of both the honored guest and the artist, praised the portrait. Her Majesty, who knew how it looked in better light and only took a quick look here, didn't realize it appeared disadvantageously and was completely satisfied with the effect.

THE PORTRAIT OF THE EMPRESS DOWAGER IN ITS FRAME

This Frame is Made of Camphor-wood Carved in the Palace after the Empress’s own Designs and under Her Direction

This frame is made of camphor wood, carved in the palace based on the Empress's own designs and under her guidance.

An amusing little incident took place while the ladies were looking at it. The Empress Dowager, in her cursory examination in this light, noticed a part of the trimming of the gown where the design was not 305 well worked out. She came up to me, as I stood in a group of ladies, and pointed out the defect. She took my hand in hers, and said in an almost pleading way, “There is a bit of trimming that is not well finished. You will arrange it for me, will you not, Ker-Gunia?” She did not believe in leaving anything to the imagination, and wished every detail fully worked out!

An amusing little incident happened while the ladies were checking it out. The Empress Dowager, during her quick look in this light, noticed a part of the gown's trim where the design wasn't well done. She walked over to me, where I was standing with a group of ladies, and pointed out the flaw. She took my hand and said in an almost desperate tone, “There’s a bit of trim that isn’t finished well. You’ll take care of it for me, won’t you, Ker-Gunia?” She didn’t believe in leaving anything to the imagination and wanted every detail taken care of! 305

This portrait was very successfully photographed, and Her Majesty concluded she liked it much better than the one which had been sent to St. Louis. She said it would make me “famous.” But when I thought of how I might have painted this wonderfully interesting woman in the unique setting in which she was placed, I realized that “it might have been” are really the “saddest words of tongue or pen.”

This portrait was photographed really well, and Her Majesty decided she liked it a lot more than the one that had been sent to St. Louis. She mentioned it would make me “famous.” But when I considered how I could have painted this incredibly interesting woman in the unique setting she was in, I understood that “it might have been” are truly the “saddest words of tongue or pen.”

The precedent having been established, the idea of a representation of the Sacred Person of a Chinese Majesty being seen by the world having been accepted, the painting of Her Majesty’s first portrait not having been followed by the dire results that the Chinese had prophesied, the traditional prejudice was overcome, and when she saw how quickly the photograph was made of the portrait, and how satisfactory it was, she decided she would have the photographer try one of herself, and she was not one to stop at a single trial. After waiting sixty-eight years to see a counterfeit presentment of herself, I know she will now indulge this new fantasy of hers to its fullest extent, and perhaps some other artist may at some time paint her according to western ideas, and represent her attractive personality in its best setting. But there must always be a pioneer, and he it is who 306 suffers the hardships and makes the way clear for others, which must be my solace and consolation for not being able to paint her as I should have liked. The Empress Dowager “consented” to have a portrait of herself painted. Before I finished the first one she told me she wanted “many,” and suggested my passing the rest of my life out in Peking. I painted four. Who will do the others?

The precedent was set, and the idea of the world seeing a representation of the Sacred Person of a Chinese Majesty was accepted. The painting of Her Majesty’s first portrait didn’t lead to the disastrous outcomes the Chinese had predicted. The traditional bias was overcome, and seeing how quickly the photograph of the portrait was taken and how good it looked, she decided to have the photographer take a shot of her too, and she wasn't one to stop at just one attempt. After waiting sixty-eight years to see a likeness of herself, I know she will now fully embrace this new fantasy of hers, and maybe at some point, another artist will paint her according to Western ideas, showcasing her attractive personality in the best light. However, there always has to be a pioneer, and that person is the one who endures the challenges and paves the way for others, which is my comfort for not being able to paint her the way I would have liked. The Empress Dowager “consented” to having a portrait of herself done. Before I finished the first one, she told me she wanted “many” and suggested I spend the rest of my life in Peking. I painted four. Who will paint the others? 306

I felt I could not go on forever painting portraits, according to Chinese traditions, of the Empress Dowager. I could not spend my life in this dalliance with Oriental splendor. The world beyond the Palace gates called me. I hurried to finish my task. The last portrait was nearing completion. My sojourn at the Palace was drawing to a close. Though I longed to be where I might paint in a freer way, I looked forward with real regret to leaving the Palace, and especially to leaving the Empress Dowager and the young Empress, for I had come to really love them. I found Her Majesty by far the most fascinating personality it had ever been my good fortune to study at such close range. The young Empress was a sweet, kind nature, full of dignity and pathos, for whom I prayed there might be greater happiness in store than had yet fallen to her lot. My sojourn at the Palaces of Her Imperial Majesty the Empress Dowager of China, my association with herself and the Ladies of her Court, I shall always remember as one of the most charming experiences of my life.

I felt like I couldn’t keep painting portraits of the Empress Dowager, following Chinese traditions, forever. I couldn’t spend my life caught up in this alluring Oriental beauty. The world outside the Palace gates was calling me. I rushed to finish my work. The last portrait was almost done. My time at the Palace was coming to an end. Even though I longed to paint in a more free-spirited way, I truly regretted leaving the Palace, especially saying goodbye to the Empress Dowager and the young Empress, because I had grown to genuinely care for them. I found Her Majesty to be the most fascinating person I had ever had the good fortune to study up close. The young Empress was sweet and kind, full of dignity and emotion, and I prayed that greater happiness would come her way than what she had experienced so far. My time spent at the Palaces of Her Imperial Majesty the Empress Dowager of China and my association with her and the Ladies of her Court will always be one of the most delightful experiences of my life.

FOOTNOTES

[1]

In the firmament of the Son of Heaven
A brilliant new star has risen!—
Supple as the neck of the swan
Is the charm of her graceful form.

From the firm contour of charming chin
Springs the faultless oval of her fair face,
Crowned by the harmonious arch
Of a broad and noble brow.

The stately profile, chiseled clear,
Is dominated by the pure line of noble nose
Straight and slender and singularly mobile,
Sensitive to all the impressions of the soul.

Dewy lips with gracious curves
Are the portals of a dainty mouth
Where often blooms the sweet flower
Of a most alluring smile.

Her face is lit by black and sparkling eyes,
Whose flames, in hours of ease,
With oblique caress, envelop and thrill
That happy mortal allowed to see.

When stern circumstance demands,
Her graceful form an attitude of firmness takes,
The soft glow of her brilliant eyes
Grows penetrating and holds one with proud authority.

O beauty Supreme! O brilliant Star
Shining but for the Son of Heaven!
From thy glowing soul radiate
Love, daring, hope, intellect, ambition, power!

From a Chinese poet—written when Her Majesty
was twenty-five years old.

[2] Confucius says “Purity is the Essence of Heaven.” Did the Manchus call theirs the “Dynasty of the Great Purity” with a knowledge of Confucian teaching, that the descendants of the Dynasty of the Great Purity (Essence of Heaven) might become literally the “Sons of Heaven,” the appellation borne by the Emperors of China?

[3] Generally written “jui,” but pronounced as I have written it.

[4] My Chinese name.

[5] “Buddha’s hand,” a very fragrant fruit of the family of lemons, which is shaped like a hand, with long, curving fingers. Pyramids of this fruit are used for their perfume.

[6] It has been said by foreigners, that Her Majesty the Empress Dowager obliges the Emperor and Empress to make the prostrations before her on her Birthday as an indignity to them and to show her authority. The truth is, that every son in China kneels before his parents on their birthdays, and should the Emperor fail to do so, the whole of China would be horrified and cry out against his unfilial conduct. Her Majesty is not only the wife of his uncle, the Emperor Hsien-Feng, but the sister of his mother, and, more than all else, the Empress Dowager is the Emperor’s adopted mother. The duties of an adopted child to his adopted parents are the same, in China, as to his own parents. In the Viceroy Chang-Chih-Tung’s famous ode to the Emperor, he speaks of this filial piety as one of the Emperor’s greatest qualities: “Who does not admire the filial reverence and piety with which he waits upon his august mother? Setting a brilliant example to all, he inquires early and late after her well-being and watches over her meals in person. Let us now add a new ode, extolling to the skies our Emperor’s fidelity to his Imperial mother.”

[7] Her Majesty said my individuality was not lost in these costumes, and that I was clothed in attire suitable to the Chinese interior. She had now devised a costume for me which was really in harmony with my new environment. Our rough tweeds and somber garments, outlining and defining the figure, looked mesquin and out of place in these great halls. The bright colors and simple lines of the gowns of the Chinese ladies are much more in keeping with their interiors. Her Majesty’s artistic taste had divined this, and she had made several attempts to devise something for me that was in harmony with the Chinese “milieu” and at the same time comfortable.

[8] Also spelled jiu.

[9] Since the above was in type I find the following in F. Laur’s “Siège de Pékin.” In speaking of the cause of the Boxer rising, he quotes Dr. Matignon as saying:

“C’est l’Europe tout entière qu’il faut mettre en cause. C’est parce qu’elle n’a pas compris les Chinois, c’est parce qu’elle a cru que ce peuple doux, somnolent, passif, pouvait, sans regimber, accepter toutes les innovations, toutes les humiliations, que l’Europe s’est laissée entrainer, et par ses missionnaires, et par ses ingénieurs....

“It's all of Europe that needs to be called out. It's because it hasn't understood the Chinese; it's because it believed that this gentle, sleepy, passive people could, without resistance, accept all innovations and humiliations, that Europe got carried away, both through its missionaries and its engineers....”

Voilà pourquoi le mouvement Boxeur s’est produit. Ce mouvement, c’est l’éveil du patriotisme chinois, avec toute l’intransigeance d’un nationalisme aveugle, ignorant, mais légitime.”

Here’s why the Boxer movement happened. This movement represents the awakening of Chinese patriotism, with all the stubbornness of a blind, ignorant, yet legitimate nationalism.

TRANSCRIBERS’ NOTES

The following changes have been applied to the text:

Page 30: “transcience” changed to “transience”: It was a plaint on the transience of worldly glory
Page 94: a period was added to the end of: reaches a high state of cultivation with them.
Page 95: “pendative” changed to “pendentive”: The carved wood ceilings were in pendentive designs
Page 125: “Macchiavellian” changed to “Machiavellian”: no Machiavellian schemes would be forwarded
Page 204: “pendatives” changed to “pendentives”: dome, with elaborately carved pendentives, was painted in
Page 238: “ge” changed to “get”: it was impossible to get any atmosphere in the background
Page 247: “Hierachy” changed to “Hierarchy”: the Priestly Hierarchy of the whole

All inconsistencies in the hyphenation of words and the spelling of names have been standardized.

All inconsistencies in hyphenation and the spelling of names have been standardized.

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