This is a modern-English version of Canyons of the Colorado, originally written by Powell, John Wesley. It has been thoroughly updated, including changes to sentence structure, words, spelling, and grammar—to ensure clarity for contemporary readers, while preserving the original spirit and nuance. If you click on a paragraph, you will see the original text that we modified, and you can toggle between the two versions.

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CANYONS OF THE COLORADO

BY J. W. POWELL, PH.D., LL.D.,

Formerly Director of the United States Geological Survey. Member of the National Academy of Sciences, etc., etc.

Former Director of the United States Geological Survey. Member of the National Academy of Sciences, etc., etc.

WITH MANY ILLUSTRATIONS.

WITH MANY IMAGES.

First published 1895

PREFACE.

On my return from the first exploration of the canyons of the Colorado, I found that our journey had been the theme of much newspaper writing. A story of disaster had been circulated, with many particulars of hardship and tragedy, so that it was currently believed throughout the United States that all the members of the party were lost save one. A good friend of mine had gathered a great number of obituary notices, and it was interesting and rather flattering to me to discover the high esteem in which I had been held by the people of the United States. In my supposed death I had attained to a glory which I fear my continued life has not fully vindicated.

On my return from the first exploration of the Colorado canyons, I found that our journey had been the subject of a lot of newspaper coverage. A story of disaster had spread, filled with details of hardship and tragedy, leading people across the United States to believe that all the members of our party were lost except for one. A good friend of mine collected a large number of obituary notices, and it was both interesting and somewhat flattering to realize the high regard in which I had been held by the American public. In my supposed death, I had achieved a level of fame that I worry my continuing life hasn’t fully justified.

The exploration was not made for adventure, but purely for scientific purposes, geographic and geologic, and I had no intention of writing an account of it, but only of recording the scientific results. Immediately on my return I was interviewed a number of times, and these interviews were published in the daily press; and here I supposed all interest in the exploration ended. But in 1874 the editors of Scribner's Monthly requested me to publish a popular account of the Colorado exploration in that journal. To this I acceded and prepared four short articles, which were elaborately illustrated from photographs in my possession.

The exploration wasn’t done for adventure, but solely for scientific reasons, both geographic and geologic, and I had no plans to write an account of it—just to document the scientific findings. Right after I got back, I was interviewed several times, and those interviews were published in the daily press; I thought that would be the end of the interest in the exploration. But in 1874, the editors of Scribner's Monthly asked me to write a popular account of the Colorado exploration for their magazine. I agreed and wrote four short articles, which were richly illustrated with photographs I had.

In the same year--1874--at the instance of Professor Henry of the Smithsonian Institution, I was called before an appropriations committee of the House of Representatives to explain certain estimates made by the Professor for funds to continue scientific work which had been in progress from the date of the original exploration. Mr. Garfield was chairman of the committee, and after listening to my

In the same year—1874—at the request of Professor Henry from the Smithsonian Institution, I was called in front of an appropriations committee of the House of Representatives to explain some budget estimates that the Professor had made for funding to continue scientific work that had been ongoing since the original exploration. Mr. Garfield was the chairman of the committee, and after hearing my

IV PREFACE.

account of the progress of the geographic and geologic work, he asked me why no history of the original exploration of the canyons had been published. I informed him that I had no interest in that work as an adventure, but was interested only in the scientific results, and that these results had in part been published and in part were in course of publication. Thereupon Mr. Garfield, in a pleasant manner, insisted that the history of the exploration should be published by the government, and that I must understand that my scientific work would be continued by additional appropriations only upon my promise that I would publish an account of the exploration. I made the promise, and the task was immediately undertaken.

While discussing the progress of the geographic and geologic work, he asked me why there wasn't a history of the original exploration of the canyons published. I told him that I had no interest in that work as an adventure, but was only focused on the scientific results, which had been partially published and were still in the process of being published. Then, Mr. Garfield, in a friendly manner, insisted that the government should publish the history of the exploration, and that I needed to understand that my scientific work would continue with additional funding only if I promised to publish an account of the exploration. I made that promise, and the task was immediately set in motion.

My daily journal had been kept on long and narrow strips of brown paper, which were gathered into little volumes that were bound in sole leather in camp as they were completed. After some deliberation I decided to publish this journal, with only such emendations and corrections as its hasty writing in camp necessitated. It chanced that the journal was written in the present tense, so that the first account of my trip appeared in that tense. The journal thus published was not a lengthy paper, constituting but a part of a report entitled "Exploration of the Colorado River of the West and its Tributaries. Explored in 1869, 1870, 1871, and 1872, under the direction of the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution." The other papers published with it relate to the geography, geology, and natural history of the country. And here again I supposed all account of the exploration ended. But from that time until the present I have received many letters urging that a popular account of the exploration and a description of that wonderful land should be published by me. This call has been voiced occasionally in the daily press and sometimes in the magazines, until at last I have concluded to publish a fuller account in popular form. In doing this I have revised and enlarged the original journal of exploration, and have added several new chapters descriptive of the region and of the people who inhabit it. Realizing the difficulty of painting in word colors a land so strange, so wonderful, and so vast in its features, in the weakness of my descriptive powers I have sought refuge in graphic illustration, and for this purpose have gathered from the magazines and from various scien-

My daily journal was kept on long, narrow strips of brown paper, which were collected into small volumes bound in leather as they were completed. After some thought, I decided to publish this journal, with only the edits and corrections needed due to its rushed writing in camp. It just so happened that the journal was written in the present tense, so the first account of my trip was presented that way. The published journal was not a lengthy piece; it was just part of a report titled "Exploration of the Colorado River of the West and its Tributaries. Explored in 1869, 1870, 1871, and 1872, under the direction of the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution." The other papers published alongside it pertain to the geography, geology, and natural history of the region. I thought that would be the end of my account of the exploration. However, since then, I have received many letters asking for a popular account of the exploration and a description of that incredible land from me. This request has appeared occasionally in the daily press and sometimes in magazines, leading me to decide to publish a more comprehensive account in a more accessible format. In doing so, I have revised and expanded the original exploration journal and added several new chapters describing the region and the people who live there. Aware of how challenging it is to vividly describe such a strange, wonderful, and vast land, I've turned to illustrations for help, gathering material from magazines and various scientific sources.

PREFACE. V

tific reports an abundance of material. All of this illustrative material originated in my work, but it has already been used elsewhere.

tific reports a lot of material. All of this illustrative material came from my work, but it has already been used in other places.

Many years have passed since the exploration, and those who were boys with me in the enterprise are--ah, most of them are dead, and the living are gray with age. Their bronzed, hardy, brave faces come before me as they appeared in the vigor of life; their lithe but powerful forms seem to move around me; and the memory of the men and their heroic deeds, the men and their generous acts, overwhelms me with a joy that seems almost a grief, for it starts a fountain of tears. I was a maimed man; my right arm was gone; and these brave men, these good men, never forgot it. In every danger my safety was their first care, and in every waking hour some kind service was rendered me, and they transfigured my misfortune into a boon.

Many years have passed since the exploration, and most of the boys who were with me in that adventure are gone—oh, most of them are dead, and the ones still alive are gray with age. I can picture their sun-kissed, strong, brave faces as they were in their prime; their agile yet powerful bodies seem to move around me. The memories of these men and their heroic actions, their generous deeds, fill me with a joy that almost feels like sorrow, as it brings forth a fountain of tears. I was injured; my right arm was missing; and these brave, good men never overlooked that. In every danger, they made my safety their top priority, and in every waking moment, they offered me some kind of help, turning my misfortune into a blessing.

To you--J. C. Sumner, William H. Dunn, W. H. Powell, G. Y. Bradley, O. G. Howland, Seneca Howland, Frank Goodman, W. E. Hawkins, and Andrew Hall--my noble and generous companions, dead and alive, I dedicate this book.

To you--J. C. Sumner, William H. Dunn, W. H. Powell, G. Y. Bradley, O. G. Howland, Seneca Howland, Frank Goodman, W. E. Hawkins, and Andrew Hall--my amazing and generous friends, both those who have passed and those who are still here, I dedicate this book.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER PAGE

I. The Valley of the Colorado ..17

I. The Colorado River Valley ..__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

II. Mesas and, Buttes . . . . 39

II. Mesas and Buttes . . . . 39

III. Mountains and Plateaus ...67

III. Mountains and Plateaus ...__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

IV. Cliffs and Terraces ....89

IV. Cliffs and Terraces ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

V. From Green River City to Flaming Gorge . 117

V. From Green River City to Flaming Gorge. 117

VI. From Flaming Gorge to the Gate of Lodore . . 133

VII. The Canyon of Lodore ...151

VII. The Canyon of Lodore ...__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

VIII. From Echo Park to the Mouth of the Uinta River .167

VIII. From Echo Park to the Mouth of the Uinta River.167

IX. From the Mouth of the Uinta River to the Junction of the

Grand and Green . ...189

Grand and Green. ...__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

X. From the Junction of the Grand and Green to the Mouth

X. From the Junction of Grand and Green to the Mouth

of the Little Colorado ......211

XI. From the Little Colorado to the Foot of the Grand Canyon247

XII. The Rio Virgen and the Uinkaret Mountains . .289

XIII. Over the River ....327

XIII. Over the River ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

XIV. To Zuñi ......351

XIV. To Zuñi ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

XV. The Grand Canyon ....379

XV. The Grand Canyon ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Index .......399

Index .......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Portrait of the Author ....... Frontispiece [missing]

PAGE

The Colorado River ......16

The Colorado River ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Parunuweap Canyon .....18

Parunuweap Canyon __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bird's-eye View of the Cliffs ....19

San Francisco Peak .....21

San Francisco Peak .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cliff near Fort Wingate .....22

Cliff by Fort Wingate .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Scenery on the High Plateaus ...23

The Mogollon Escarpment ....25

The Mogollon Escarpment ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Snow-clad Mountains on the River ..26

Snow-covered mountains by the river ..26

Our Messenger ......28

Our Messenger ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Apache Basket ......29

Apache Basket ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Our Messenger's Wife .....30

Our Messenger's Wife .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Ruins of Toyalone .....31

Ruins of Toyalone .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

A Zuñí Court .......33

A Zuni Court .......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Adobe Church, Zuñi .....34

Adobe Church, Zuñi .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

The Site of Moenkopi . . . . . . . . 36

Mountain of the Holy Cross ...38

Wingate Cliff .......40

Wingate Cliff .......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Pyramid Butte near Fort Wingate ..41

Zuñi Cliffs .......42

Zuñi Cliffs __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Great Neck Nine Miles South of Salazar .43

Cinder Cone and Neck, Northeast of Grant Station 44

Two Large Necks, the More Distant One being the Cabazon45

Two large necks, with the more distant one being the Cabazon45

Neck Six Miles Northeast of Juantafoya ..46

A Group of Necks near Mount Taylor .47

Panorama from the Edge of Mount Taylor Mesa 48

Panorama in the Valley of the Puerco .50

Ruins at the Head of McElmo Canyon . . . 52

A Navajo Hogan ......53

A Navajo Hogan ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

An Ancient Coiled Vase from Tusayan ..54

A Typical Cliff Dwelling ....56

A Typical Cliff House ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

A Room in a Pueblo .....57

A Navajo Ready for a Journey ...58

A Navajo Boy .......59

A Navajo Boy .......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Gardens of Zuñi ......60

Gardens of Zuñi __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

A Tusayan Ladder ......61

A Tusayan Ladder ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

A Zuñi Stool ......61

A Zuñi stool ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

X CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

PAGE

A Tusayan Field Shelter .....62

A Tusayan Field Shelter .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Another Tusayan Field Shelter ...63

Another Tusayan Field Shelter ...__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

View of Hano, One of the Seven Pueblos of Tusayan . 64

View of Hano, one of the seven Pueblos of Tusayan. 64

Mesa Verde . . . . ... . . between 64 and 65

Mount Moran, Teton Range, Wyoming ..66

Marble Basins, Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone Park 69

Terraced Basins, Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone Park 70

Tabernacle Crater and Lava Beds of the Basin Province 73

View on Great Salt Lake Desert, showing Mountains half buried by Lake Sediments .....74

View of Great Salt Lake Desert, showing mountains partially covered by lake sediments.....74

An Indian Hunter ......76

An Indian Hunter ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Reservoir Butte, showing Terraces of the Ancient Lake Bonneville Shorelines . . . . . . . 77

Pavant Butte, over a Submarine Volcano of the Great Basin 78

Pavant Butte, above a submarine volcano in the Great Basin 78

An Indian Camp ......79

An Indian Camp ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Indians Gambling ......80

Indians Gambling ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Ruin near Moenkopi .....81

Ruin near Moenkopi .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Ruins of Payupki, Six Miles Northwest of Mashongnavi, Tusayan .. 82

Shupaulovi .......85

Shupaulovi .......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

General View of Zuñi, looking West ..86

The Gray Cliffs ......88

The Gray Cliffs ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Section and Bird's-eye View of the Plateaus North of the Grand Canyon ......90

A Group of Stone Corrals ....91

Ruins ........92

Ruins __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lagoon on the Kaibab .....95

Lagoon on the Kaibab .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Pink Cliffs, Paunsagunt Plateau ...96

Pink Cliffs, Paunsagunt Plateau ...__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

A Permian Butte ......99

A Permian Butte ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Vermilion Cliffs at Kanab .....100

Vermilion Cliffs in Kanab .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

A Midsummerday's Dream on the Colob .103

A Midsummer Day's Dream on the Colob .103

An Indian Village ......104

An Indian Village ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Antinaints, Putusiv, and Wichuts in Festal Dress . 105

Perspective View of Typical Solitary House .106

Perspective View of a Typical Single-Family Home .106

Perspective View of Round-House Structure of Lava . 107

Perspective View of Round-House Structure of Lava. 107

An Ancient Cliff House .....108

An Ancient Cliff House .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

A Zuñi Eagle Cage .....109

A Zuñi Eagle Cage .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

A View of Zuñi ......110

A View of Zuñi ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Walpi Dance Rock .....112

Walpi Dance Rock .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

A Passageway in Walpi .....114

A Passageway in Walpi .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

A Passageway in Mashongnavi ...115

A passage in Mashongnavi ...__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

The Hurricane Fault ..... between 114 and 115

The Hurricane Fault ..... between __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ and __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__

Temples and Towers of the Rio Virgen . between 114 and 115

Towers of the Vermilion Cliffs .... between 114 and 115

Panorama ....... between 114 and 115

Panorama ....... between __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ and __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__

Terraced Houses in Zuñi .....116

Terraced Houses in Zuñi .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

The Start from Green River Station ..118

View in Sichumovi ......121

View in Sichumovi ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Trail up Walpi Mesa .....122

Trail up Walpi Mesa .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Ridges on Bitter Creek .....123

Ridges on Bitter Creek .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Mesas ........124

Mesas ........__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XI

ILLUSTRATION LIST. XI

PAGE

A Valley West of Green River ...125

Alcove Lands ......126

Alcove Lands ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bad Lands . . . . . . . . . . 127

Our Indian Guide .....128

Our Indian Guide .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Our Guide's Boy ......129

Our Guide's Boy ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Green River Plains .....130

Green River Plains .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

The Chief Kiva of Shupaulovi . . . . . . 131

Walpi .........132

Walpi __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Camp at Flaming Gorge . . . . . . . 134

Mashongnavi, with Shupaulovi in the Distance . . 135

Horseshoe Canyon ......136

Horseshoe Canyon ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Scene in Hano ......139

Scene in Hanoi ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Pescado Pueblo, Outside Steps ....140

Pescado Pueblo, Outside Steps ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Oven near Pescado Pueblo ....141

Oven by Pescado Pueblo ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Primitive Andiron in Shumopavi ...142

Primitive Andiron in Shumopavi ...__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Tusayan Mealing-Stones ....143

Tusayan Mealing-Stones __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Kiva and Stone Corrals of Mashongnavi ..144

"Hogbacks" with Intervening Valleys .146

"Hogbacks" with Nearby Valleys.__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

An Ancient Pueblo Metate ....148

An Ancient Pueblo Metate ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

The Home of the Chief ....150

Gate of Lodore .......153

Gate of Lodore __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wreck at Disaster Falls . . . . . . 155

Metalliferous Veins exposed to View ..156

Metalliferous veins visible to see ..156

Winnie's Grotto, a Side Canyon ...159

Eroded Towers capped with Large Blocks of Sandstone . 161

Eroded towers topped with large sandstone blocks. 161

Fire in Camp ......162

Campfire......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

An Isolated House at Zuñi ....164

An Oraibi Court ......166

An Oraibi Court ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

The Rescue . . . . . . . . . ...169

Echo Park .......170

Echo Park __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Fragment of Wall, Zuñi .....171

Fragment of Wall, Zuñi.....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Kivas of Shumopavi .....172

Kivas of Shumopavi __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

General View of Awatubi . . . . . . . 173

Swallow Cave . . . . . . . . 175

View of Shumopavi . . . . . . . . 177

Ruins .......178, 179

Ruins __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__

Indian Lodge in the Uinta Valley ...181

Warrior and Bride .....183

Warrior and Bride .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Our Interpreter and His Family ...185

House Building at Oraibi ....186

House Construction at Oraibi ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

General View of Ojo Caliente ....188

Sumner's Amphitheater ....190

Sumner's Amphitheater __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Chimneys and Roofs, Zuñi ....193

Chimneys and Roofs, Zuñi ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

A Tusayan Interior .....194

A Tusayan Interior .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Lighthouse Rock, Canyon of Desolation ..197

Gunnison Butte, Gray Canyon ...199

Gunnison Butte, Gray Canyon ...__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Ruins of Ketchipauau .....201

Ruins of Ketchipauau .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Bird's-eye View of the Land of the Standing Rocks . 202

Bird's-eye View of the Land of the Standing Rocks. 202

The Butte of the Cross .....204

Land of the Standing Rocks . . . . 205

XII

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

PAGE

Moenkopi .......207

Moenkopi __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Oraibi Houses .......208

Oraibi Homes .......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

The Heart of Marble Canyon ...210

A Lateral Canyon. ......213

A Lateral Canyon. ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

A Tusayan Mealing Trough. ...215

A Tusayan Food Preparation Area. ...__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

The Heart of Cataract Canyon . . . . . 217

Water Basin in Gypsum Canyon ...219

The Water Pocket Canyon ....221

The Water Pocket Canyon ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Plan of the Ruin of Kiu-Tiel, near Tusayau . . 222

Pescado Houses .......225

Fish Houses .......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Repairing Boats at the Mouth of Dirty Devil River . 226

Ruins on the Brink of Glen Canyon ..228

Ruins on the Edge of Glen Canyon ..228

Island Monument iu Glen Canyon ...231

Island Monument in Glen Canyon ...231

Glen Canyon .......232

Glen Canyon __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

An Enclosing Wall of Upright Stones at Ojo Caliente 235

Marble Canyon .......236

Marble Canyon __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Noonday Rest in Marble Canyon ..239

View of Marble Canyon from Vermilion Cliffs . . 240

Adobe Walls, Zuñi .....243

Adobe Walls, Zuni .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

At the Mouth of the Little Colorado ..246

Walls of Gneiss ......249

Gneiss Walls ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Running a Rapid ......250

Running a Rapid ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Head of the Grand Canyon ....252

The Inner Gorge ......254

The Inner Gorge ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Signal of Discovery or Alarm . . . . . 257

Signal, "Who are you?" Answer, "Pani" . . . ...258

Signal of Successful War Party ...261

A Signal of Peace ......262

A Sign of Peace ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Moki Method of Dressing the Hair ..265

Moki Method of Spinning ....266

Moki Spinning Method ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

An Alcove in the Red Wall ...269

Kanab Canyon, near the Junction ...270

Kanab Canyon, close to the Junction ...270

Kanab Canyon in the Red Wall Limestone . . 273

The Brink of the Inner Gorge ....275

The Grand Canyon of the Colorado, showing Amphitheater and Sculptured Buttes .....276

The Grand Canyon of the Colorado, featuring the Amphitheater and Sculptured Buttes .....276

Climbing the Grand Canyon Wall ..279

Triangulation Station .....281

Triangulation Station __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Cavate Houses ......283

Cave Houses ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Standing Rocks .......285

Standing Rocks __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Mount Trumbull, from Mount Logan ..288

Mary's Veil, the Upper Fall on Pine Creek . . . 290

Filling's Cascade, the Lower Palls on Pine Creek . 291

Filling's Cascade, the Lower Falls on Pine Creek. 291

Aboriginal Ladder . ... . . . . . 292

Another Style of Ladder ....293

Another Style of Ladder __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Entrance to Parunuweap .....295

Entrance to Parunuweap __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Towers on the Rio Virgen ....296

Mukuntuweap Canyon . . . . . . . 298

The Witches' Water Pocket ....301

The Witches' Water Pocket ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Wunavai Gathering Seeds .....302

Wunavai Seed Gathering .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Xlll

ILLUSTRATION LIST. Xlll

PAGE

Terrace Fireplace and Chimney of Shumopavi . . 305

A Sweat House .......306

A Sweat Lodge .......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

An Interior Lodge ......309

An Interior Lodge ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Halved and Pinned Trapdoor Frame of Zuñí Kiva . . 310

Wooden Pivot Hinges of a Zuñi Door .310

A Poultry House of Sichumovi resembling an Oven . 312

A Poultry House of Sichumovi that looks like an Oven. 312

The Human Pickle .....314

The Human Pickle .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Recent Lava Flow on the Uinkaret . . . . . 317

A Zuñi Window glazed with Selenite ..318

A Zuñi Window covered with Selenite ..318

A Zuñi Chair .......319

A Zuñi Chair __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

An Ancient Circular Doorway or "Stone Close" in Kin-Tiel 320

A Gaming Ring ......320

A Gaming Circle ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Interior View of a Tusayan Kiva ..322

Cave Lake in Kanab Canyon ....324

Ancient Pottery from Tusayan ...326

Ancient Pottery from Tusayan... __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Tusayan Fetiches and Implements ...329

Tusayan Artifacts and Tools ...__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Dance Paraphernalia from Tusayan ..332

Dance Gear from Tusayan ..__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

The Thousand Wells .....334

The Thousand Wells .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Terraced Houses in Oraibi showing Entrance to Kiva in Foreground ........335

Terraced Houses in Oraibi with the Entrance to Kiva in the Foreground ........335

The House of Talti, Chief of the Council in the Town of Oraibi 337

Praying for Rain ......339

Praying for Rain ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Mashongnavi .......340

Mashongnavi .......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Tusayan Trays .......341

Tusayan Trays .......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Tusayan Maskettes .....343

Tusayan Maskettes __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Sichumovi and Hano .....344

Sichumovi and Hano .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Walpi, a Village of Tusayan ...346

Tusayan Basketry ....330, 348, 349

Tusayan Basketry __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__

Zuñi from Housetops, looking East ..350

Zuñi from Rooftops, looking East ..350

Navajo Indian with Silver Ornaments ..352

Bringing down the Batten . . . . 353

Navajo Church, near Fort Wingate ...354

Round Tower on a Rock ....355

Toyalone, from the Top of a House in Zuñi .356

Typical Terraced Communal Pueblo ..357

Typical Terraced Community Pueblo ..__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Dancer holding up the Great Plumed Arrow .358

Dancer "swallowing" the Great Plumed Arrow . 359

Dancer "swallowing" the Great Plumed Arrow. 359

Navajo Woman weaving a Belt ...360

Navajo woman weaving a belt ...360

Navajo Woman spinning ....361

Navajo woman spinning ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

A Room in a Zuñi House ....362

Ashtishkee, a Navajo Chief ....365

Ashtishkee, a Navajo Chief ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Navajo Medicine Lodge, viewed from the South . . 366

Navajo Medicine Lodge, seen from the South . . 366

Navajo Medicine Lodge, viewed from the East . . 367

Navajo Medicine Lodge, seen from the East . . 367

Navajo Fire Dance ......368

Navajo Fire Dance ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Workshop of Navajo Silversmith ...369

Navajo Silversmith Workshop ...__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Zuñi Woman weaving a Belt ....370

Zuñi woman weaving a belt ....370

Weaving of Diamond-shaped Diagonals .371

Diamond Diagonal Weaving .__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Zuñi Fetiches .......372

Zuñi Fetishes .......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Effigy Pottery from Zuñi ....373

Effigy Pottery from Zuñi ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Zuñi Pottery .......374

Zuñi Pottery .......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

XIV CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

14 Canyons of the Colorado.

PAGE

Zuñi Grails .......375

Zuñi Grails __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Culinary Pottery from Zuñí . . . . . . 376

Navajo Fabrics ......377

Navajo Fabrics __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

The Grand Canyon ......378

The Grand Canyon ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

A Gable with Pinnacles ....381

A Gable with Pinnacles ....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Niches or Panels in the Red Wall Limestone .382

Bounded Inward Curves and Projecting Cusps of the Walls ...384

Bounded inward curves and outward projections of the walls ...384

The Eastern Temple ......387

The Eastern Temple ......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

The Western Temple .....388

The Western Temple .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Granite Falls, Kaibab Division, Grand Canyon . . 391

Dikes in the Canyon Wall ....392

Pinnacles of the Kaibab .....395

Pinnacles of the Kaibab .....__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Vishnu's Temple ......396

Vishnu's Temple ……__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Key to the Panorama from Point Sublime, looking East, between 396 and ...397

Key to the Panorama from Point Sublime, looking West, between ...396 and ...397

Key to the Panorama from Point Sublime, looking South, between ...396 and ...397

Key to the Panorama from Point Sublime, facing South, between ...396 and ...397

Grand Canyon at the Foot of the Toroweap, looking East, between ...396 and ...397

The Great Unconformity at the Head of the Grand Canyon, between ...396 and ...397

THE COLORADO RIVER.

Colorado River.

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

CHAPTER I.

CHAPTER 1.

THE VALLEY OF THE COLORADO.

The Colorado River Valley.

THE Colorado River is formed by the junction of the Grand and Green.

THE Colorado River is created by the meeting of the Grand and Green.

The Grand River has its source in the Rocky Mountains, five or six miles west of Long's Peak. A group of little alpine lakes, that receive their waters directly from perpetual snowbanks, discharge into a common reservoir known as Grand Lake, a beautiful sheet of water. Its quiet surface reflects towering cliffs and crags of granite on its eastern shore, and stately pines and firs stand on its western margin.

The Grand River starts in the Rocky Mountains, about five or six miles west of Long's Peak. A collection of small alpine lakes, fed directly by lasting snowbanks, flow into a main reservoir called Grand Lake, which is a stunning body of water. Its calm surface mirrors the towering cliffs and granite crags on its eastern shore, while tall pines and firs stand along its western edge.

The Green River heads near Fremont's Peak, in the Wind River Mountains. This river, like the Grand, has its sources in alpine lakes fed by everlasting snows. Thousands of these little lakes, with deep, cold, emerald waters, are embosomed among the crags of the Rocky Mountains. These streams, born in the cold, gloomy solitudes of the upper mountain region, have a strange, eventful history as they pass down through gorges, tumbling in cascades and cataracts, until they reach the hot, arid plains of the Lower Colorado, where the waters that were so clear above empty as turbid floods into the Gulf of California.

The Green River starts near Fremont's Peak in the Wind River Mountains. This river, like the Grand, has its sources in alpine lakes fed by everlasting snow. Thousands of these small lakes, with deep, cold, emerald waters, are nestled among the rocky peaks of the Rocky Mountains. These streams, born in the chilly, isolated heights of the upper mountain region, have a fascinating and eventful journey as they flow through gorges, cascading and pouring over falls, until they reach the hot, dry plains of the Lower Colorado, where the clear waters from above turn into muddy floods as they flow into the Gulf of California.

The mouth of the Colorado is in latitude 31 degrees 53 minutes and longitude 115 degrees. The source of the Grand River is in latitude 40 degrees 17' and longitude 105 degrees 43' approximately. The source of the Green River is in latitude 43 degrees 15' and longitude 109 degrees 54' approximately.

The mouth of the Colorado is at latitude 31.88 and longitude -115. The source of the Grand River is around latitude 40.28 and longitude -105.72. The source of the Green River is about latitude 43.25 and longitude -109.90.

The Green River is larger than the Grand and is the upper continuation of the Colorado. Including this river, the whole length of

The Green River is bigger than the Grand and is the upper part of the Colorado. Including this river, the entire length of

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

PA-RÚ-NU-WEAP CANYON.

the stream is about 2,000 miles. The region of country drained by the Colorado and its tributaries is about 800 miles in length and varies from 300 to 500 miles in width, containing about 300,000 square miles, an area larger than all the New England and Middle States with Maryland, Virginia and West Virginia added, or nearly as large as Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, and Missouri combined.

the stream is about 2,000 miles long. The area drained by the Colorado and its tributaries stretches around 800 miles in length and varies from 300 to 500 miles in width, covering approximately 300,000 square miles. This area is larger than all of New England and the Middle States combined, including Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia, or nearly as large as Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, and Missouri put together.

There are two distinct portions of the basin of the Colorado, a desert portion below and a plateau portion above. The lower third, or desert portion of the basin, is but little above the level of the sea, though here and there ranges of moun-

There are two distinct areas of the Colorado basin: a desert area below and a plateau area above. The lower third, or desert area of the basin, is only slightly above sea level, although there are occasional mountain ranges.

THE VALLEY OF THE COLORADO.

THE COLORADO RIVER VALLEY.

tains rise to an altitude of from 2,000 to 6,000 feet. This part of the valley is bounded on the northeast by a line of cliffs, which present a bold, often vertical step, hundreds or thousands of feet to the table-lands above. On the California side a vast desert stretches westward, past the head of the Gulf of California, nearly to the shore of the Pacific. Between the desert and the sea a narrow belt of valley, hill, and mountain of wonderful beauty is found. Over this coastal zone there falls a balm distilled from the great ocean, as gentle showers and refreshing dews bathe the land. When rains come the emerald hills laugh with delight as bourgeoning bloom is spread in the sunlight. When the rains have ceased all the verdure turns to gold. Then slowly the hills are brinded

Mountains rise to an elevation of 2,000 to 6,000 feet. This part of the valley is bordered on the northeast by a line of cliffs, which display a bold, often vertical drop of hundreds or thousands of feet down to the tablelands above. On the California side, a vast desert stretches westward, past the head of the Gulf of California, almost reaching the shores of the Pacific. Between the desert and the sea lies a narrow strip of valley, hills, and mountains, all incredibly beautiful. Over this coastal zone, a soothing mist from the ocean brings gentle showers and refreshing dews that nourish the land. When it rains, the emerald hills come alive, covered in vibrant blooms under the sunlight. Once the rains stop, all the greenery turns to gold. Then, slowly, the hills take on a colorful pattern.

BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF THE CLIFFS.

Aerial view of the cliffs.

until the rains come again, when verdure and bloom again peer through the tawny wreck of the last year's greenery. North of the Gulf of California the desert is known as "Coahuila Valley," the most desolate region on the continent. At one time in the geologic history of this country the Gulf of California extended a long distance farther to the northwest, above the point where the Colorado River now enters it; but this stream brought its mud from the mountains and the hills above and poured it into the gulf and gradually erected a vast dam across it, until the waters above were separated from the waters below; then the Colorado cut a channel into the lower gulf. The upper waters, being cut off from the sea, gradually evaporated, and what is known as Coahuila Valley was the bottom of this ancient upper gulf,

until the rains come again, when greenery and flowers peek through the brown remains of last year's plants. North of the Gulf of California, the desert is called "Coahuila Valley," the most barren area on the continent. At one point in the geological history of this region, the Gulf of California stretched much farther northwest, above where the Colorado River currently enters it; however, this river carried mud from the mountains and hills above and dumped it into the gulf, gradually building a massive dam across it, until the waters above were cut off from those below; then the Colorado carved a channel into the lower gulf. The upper waters, now isolated from the ocean, slowly evaporated, and what is now known as Coahuila Valley was the floor of this ancient upper gulf.

20 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

and thus the land is now below the level of the sea. Between Coahuila Valley and the river there are many low, ashen-gray mountains standing in short ranges. The rainfall is so little that no perennial streams are formed. When a great rain comes it washes the mountain sides and gathers on its way a deluge of sand, which it spreads over the plain below, for the streams do not carry the sediment to the sea. So the mountains are washed down and the valleys are filled. On the Arizona side of the river desert plains are interrupted by desert mountains. Far to the eastward the country rises until the Sierra Madre are reached in New Mexico, where these mountains divide the waters of the Colorado from the Rio Grande del Norte. Here in New Mexico the Gila River has its source. Some of its tributaries rise in the mountains to the south, in the territory belonging to the republic of Mexico, but the Gila gathers the greater part of its waters from a great plateau on the northeast. Its sources are everywhere in pine-clad mountains and plateaus, but all of the affluents quickly descend into the desert valley below, through which the Gila winds its way westward to the Colorado. In times of continued drought the bed of the Gila is dry, but the region is subject to great and violent storms, and floods roll down from the heights with marvelous precipitation, carrying devastation on their way. Where the Colorado River forms the boundary between California and Arizona it cuts through a number of volcanic rocks by black, yawning canyons. Between these canyons the river has a low but rather narrow flood plain, with cottonwood groves scattered here and there, and a chaparral of mesquite bearing beans and thorns. Four hundred miles above its mouth and more than two hundred miles above the Gila, the Colorado has a second tributary--"Bill Williams' River" it is called by excessive courtesy. It is but a muddy creek. Two hundred miles above this the Rio Virgen joins the Colorado. This river heads in the Markagunt Plateau and the Pine Valley Mountains of Utah. Its sources are 7,000 or 8,000 feet above the sea, but from the beautiful course of the upper region it soon drops into a great sandy valley below and becomes a river of flowing sand. At ordinary stages it is very wide but very shallow, rippling over the quicksands in tawny waves. On its way it cuts through the Beaver Mountains by a weird canyon. On either side grease-wood plains stretch far away, interrupted here and there by bad-land hills.

and so the land is now below sea level. Between Coahuila Valley and the river, there are many low, gray mountains in short ranges. The rainfall is so minimal that no permanent streams are formed. When a heavy rain occurs, it washes down the mountainsides and collects a deluge of sand along the way, which it spreads over the plain below since the streams don’t carry the sediment to the sea. As a result, the mountains erode and the valleys fill up. On the Arizona side of the river, desert plains are interspersed with desert mountains. Far to the east, the terrain rises until it reaches the Sierra Madre in New Mexico, where these mountains separate the waters of the Colorado from the Rio Grande del Norte. Here in New Mexico, the Gila River begins. Some of its tributaries originate in the mountains to the south, within the territory of Mexico, but the Gila collects most of its water from a large plateau to the northeast. Its sources are found in pine-covered mountains and plateaus, but all of the tributaries quickly flow down into the desert valley below, where the Gila meanders westward toward the Colorado. During extended droughts, the Gila’s bed is dry, but the area often experiences intense storms, and floods rush down from the heights with remarkable force, causing destruction along the way. Where the Colorado River forms the border between California and Arizona, it cuts through volcanic rocks, creating deep, black canyons. Between these canyons, the river has a low but relatively narrow floodplain, with cottonwood groves scattered throughout and mesquite bushes with beans and thorns. Four hundred miles upstream from its mouth and over two hundred miles above the Gila, the Colorado has a second tributary—called "Bill Williams' River," somewhat ironically. It’s just a muddy creek. Two hundred miles above this, the Rio Virgen joins the Colorado. This river starts in the Markagunt Plateau and Pine Valley Mountains of Utah. Its sources are 7,000 or 8,000 feet above sea level, but after a beautiful stretch in the upper region, it soon drops into a large sandy valley below and becomes a river of flowing sand. During normal conditions, it is very wide but very shallow, rippling over quicksand in tawny waves. Along its course, it cuts through the Beaver Mountains by an unusual canyon. On either side, greasewood plains stretch far away, occasionally broken by badlands hills.

SAN FRANCISCO PEAK.

San Francisco Peak.

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

The region of country lying on either side of the Colorado for six hundred miles of its course above the gulf, stretching to Coahuila Valley below on the west and to the highlands where the Gila heads on the east, is one of singular characteristics. The plains and valleys are low, arid, hot, and naked, and the volcanic mountains scattered here and there are lone and desolate. During the long months the sun pours its heat upon the rocks and sands, untempered by clouds above or forest shades beneath. The springs are so few in number that their names are household words in every Indian rancheria and every 23

The area of the country along both sides of the Colorado River for six hundred miles above the Gulf is unique in many ways. The plains and valleys are low, dry, hot, and barren, while the volcanic mountains scattered throughout are isolated and bleak. For months on end, the sun beats down on the rocks and sands, without any clouds above or forest cover below to provide relief. The springs are so scarce that their names are well-known in every Indian community and every 23

CLIFF NEAR FORT WINGATE.

Cliff by Fort Wingate.

settler's home; and there are no brooks, no creeks, and no rivers but the trunk of the Colorado and the trunk of the Gila. The few plants are strangers to the dwellers in the temperate zone. On the mountains a few junipers and piñons are found, and cactuses, agave, and yuccas, low, fleshy plants with bayonets and thorns. The landscape of vegetal life is weird--no forests, no meadows, no green hills, no foliage, but clublike stems of plants armed with stilettos. Many of the plants bear gorgeous flowers. The birds are few, but often of rich plumage. Hooded rattlesnakes, horned toads, and lizards crawl in the dust and among the rocks. One of these lizards, the "Gila monster," is

settler's home; and there are no brooks, no creeks, and no rivers except for the trunk of the Colorado and the trunk of the Gila. The few plants here are unfamiliar to those who live in temperate climates. On the mountains, you can find a few junipers and piñons, as well as cacti, agave, and yuccas—short, fleshy plants with sharp spines and thorns. The plant life in the landscape is strange—no forests, no meadows, no green hills, no leaves, just club-like stems of plants armed with spikes. Many of these plants have beautiful flowers. The birds are few but often have vibrant feathers. Hooded rattlesnakes, horned lizards, and skinks move in the dust and among the rocks. One of these lizards, the "Gila monster," is

SCENERY ON THE HIGH PLATEAUS.

SCENERY IN THE HIGH PLATEAUS.

24 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

poisonous. Rarely antelopes are seen, but wolves, rabbits, and sundry ground squirrels abound.

poisonous. It's rare to see antelopes, but there are plenty of wolves, rabbits, and various ground squirrels.

The desert valley of the Colorado, which has been described as distinct from the plateau region above, is the home of many Indian tribes. Away up at the sources of the Gila, where the pines and cedars stand and where creeks and valleys are found, is a part of the Apache land. These tribes extend far south into the republic of Mexico. The Apaches are intruders in this country, having at some time, perhaps many centuries ago, migrated from British America. They speak an Athapascan language. The Apaches and Navajos are the American Bedouins. On their way from the far North they left several colonies in Washington, Oregon, and California. They came to the country on foot, but since the Spanish invasion they have become skilled horsemen. They are wily warriors and implacable enemies, feared by all other tribes. They are hunters, warriors, and priests, these professions not yet being differentiated. The cliffs of the region have many caves, in which these people perform their religious rites. The Sierra Madre formerly supported abundant game, and the little Sonora deer was common. Bears and mountain lions were once found in great numbers, and they put the courage and prowess of the Apaches to a severe test. Huge rattlesnakes are common, and the rattlesnake god is one of the deities of the tribes.

The Colorado desert valley, which is different from the plateau region above, is home to many Native American tribes. Up at the sources of the Gila, where pines and cedars grow and creeks and valleys exist, is part of Apache territory. These tribes stretch far south into Mexico. The Apaches are newcomers to this area, having migrated from British America, possibly centuries ago. They speak an Athapascan language. The Apaches and Navajos are like the American Bedouins. On their journey from the far North, they established several communities in Washington, Oregon, and California. They originally traveled on foot, but since the Spanish invasion, they have become skilled horse riders. They are clever warriors and relentless adversaries, feared by other tribes. They are hunters, warriors, and spiritual leaders, with these roles not yet separated. The cliffs in the area have many caves where these people conduct their religious ceremonies. The Sierra Madre once supported plenty of game, and the small Sonora deer was common. Bears and mountain lions used to roam in large numbers, testing the strength and bravery of the Apaches. Large rattlesnakes are frequent, and the rattlesnake god is one of the deities of the tribes.

In the valley of the Gila and on its tributaries from the northeast are the Pimas, Maricopas, and Papagos. They are skilled agriculturists, cultivating lands by irrigation. In the same region many ruined villages are found. The dwellings of these towns in the valley were built chiefly of grout, and the fragments of the ancient pueblos still remaining have stood through centuries of storm. Other pueblos near the cliffs on the northeast were built of stone. The people who occupied them cultivated the soil by irrigation, and their hydraulic works were on an extensive scale. They built canals scores of miles in length and built reservoirs to store water. They were skilled workers in pottery. From the fibers of some of the desert plants they made fabrics with which to clothe themselves, and they cultivated cotton. They were deft artists in picture-writings, which they etched on the rocks. Many interesting vestiges of their ancient art remain, testifying to their skill as savage

In the Gila Valley and its northeastern tributaries live the Pimas, Maricopas, and Papagos. They are expert farmers, using irrigation to cultivate their land. In that same area, many ruined villages can be found. The homes in these valley towns were primarily made of grout, and the remnants of the ancient pueblos have survived centuries of storms. Other pueblos located near the cliffs to the northeast were constructed from stone. The people who lived there also practiced irrigation farming, and their water management systems were quite extensive. They built canals spanning dozens of miles and created reservoirs to store water. They were skilled potters, and using fibers from various desert plants, they made fabrics for clothing, as well as cultivated cotton. They were talented artists as well, creating picture writings etched into the rocks. Numerous fascinating remnants of their ancient art still exist, showcasing their abilities.

THE MOGOLLON ESCARPMENT.

SNOW-CLAD MOUNTAINS ON THE RIVER.

Snow-covered mountains by the river.

THE VALLEY OF THE COLORADO. 27

THE COLORADO VALLEY. 27

artisans. It seems probable that the Pimas, Maricopas, and Papagos are the same people who built the pueblos and constructed the irrigation works; so their traditions state. It is also handed down that the pueblos were destroyed in wars with the Apaches. In these groves of the flood plain of the Colorado the Mojave and Yuma Indians once had their homes. They caught fish from the river and snared a few rabbits in the desert, but lived mainly on mesquite beans, the hearts of yucca plants, and the fruits of the cactus. They also gathered a harvest from the river reeds. To some slight extent they cultivated the soil by rude irrigation and raised corn and squashes. They lived almost naked, for the climate is warm and dry. Sometimes a year passes without a drop of rain. Still farther to the north the Chemehuevas lived, partly along the river and partly in the mountains to the west, where a few springs are found. They belong to the great Shoshonian family. On the Rio Virgen and in the mountains round about, a confederacy of tribes speaking the Ute language and belonging to the Shoshonian family have their homes. These people built their sheltering homes of boughs and the bast of the juniper. In such shelters, they lived in winter, but in summer they erected extensive booths of poles and willows, sometimes large enough for the accommodation of a tribe of 100 or 200 persons. A wide gap in culture separates the Pimas, Maricopas, and Papagos from the Chemehuevas. The first were among the most advanced tribes found in the United States; the last were among the very lowest; they are the original "Digger" Indians, called so by all the other tribes, but the name has gradually spread beyond its original denotation to many tribes of Utah, Nevada, and California.

artisans. It seems likely that the Pimas, Maricopas, and Papagos are the same people who built the pueblos and created the irrigation systems; their traditions suggest this. It is also said that the pueblos were destroyed during wars with the Apaches. In these groves of the floodplain of the Colorado, the Mojave and Yuma Indians once lived. They caught fish from the river and hunted a few rabbits in the desert, but primarily relied on mesquite beans, yucca hearts, and cactus fruits. They also harvested from the river reeds. To some extent, they farmed the land using basic irrigation techniques to grow corn and squash. They lived almost without clothing, as the climate is warm and dry, sometimes going a whole year without any rain. Further north, the Chemehuevas lived, partly along the river and partly in the mountains to the west, where a few springs were found. They are part of the larger Shoshonian family. Along the Rio Virgen and in the surrounding mountains, a confederation of tribes speaking the Ute language and also belonging to the Shoshonian family made their homes. These people built their shelters from branches and juniper bark. They lived in these shelters during the winter, but in summer, they constructed large booths made of poles and willows, sometimes big enough to accommodate 100 to 200 people. There is a significant cultural gap between the Pimas, Maricopas, and Papagos and the Chemehuevas. The first were among the most advanced tribes in the United States; the latter were among the least developed; they are the original "Digger" Indians, a term used by all the other tribes, which has gradually expanded to include many tribes from Utah, Nevada, and California.

The low desert, with its desolate mountains, which has thus been described is plainly separated from the upper region of plateau by the Mogollon Escarpment, which, beginning in the Sierra Madre of New Mexico, extends northwestward across the Colorado far into Utah, where it ends on the margin of the Great Basin. The rise by this escarpment varies from 3,000 to more than 4,000 feet. The step from the lowlands to the highlands which is here called the Mogollon Escarpment is not a simple line of cliffs, but is a complicated and irregular facade presented to the southwest. Its different portions have been named by the people living below as distinct mountains, as Shiwits Mountains, Mogollon

The low desert, with its barren mountains, is clearly separated from the higher plateau by the Mogollon Escarpment, which starts in the Sierra Madre of New Mexico and stretches northwest across Colorado deep into Utah, where it ends at the edge of the Great Basin. The elevation change at this escarpment ranges from 3,000 to over 4,000 feet. The transition from the lowlands to the highlands, known as the Mogollon Escarpment, isn’t just a straight line of cliffs; it’s a complex and uneven face facing southwest. The different sections have been named by the local residents as distinct mountains, such as the Shiwits Mountains and Mogollon.

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

Mountains, Piñal Mountains, Sierra Calitro, etc., but they all rise to the summit of the same great plateau region.

Mountains, Piñal Mountains, Sierra Calitro, etc., but they all rise to the top of the same vast plateau region.

The upper region, extending to the headwaters of the Grand and Green Rivers, constitutes the great Plateau Province. These plateaus are drained by the Colorado River and its tributaries; the eastern and

The upper region, extending to the sources of the Grand and Green Rivers, makes up the great Plateau Province. These plateaus are drained by the Colorado River and its tributaries; the eastern and

OUR MESSENGER.

southern margin by the Rio Grande and its tributaries, and the western by streams that flow into the Great Basin and are lost in the Great Salt Lake and other bodies of water that have no drainage to the sea. The general surface of this upper region is from 5,000 to 8,000 feet above sea level, though the channels of the streams are cut much lower.

southern edge by the Rio Grande and its tributaries, and the western edge by streams that flow into the Great Basin and disappear in the Great Salt Lake and other bodies of water that don’t drain into the sea. The general surface of this higher region is between 5,000 and 8,000 feet above sea level, although the channels of the streams are carved much lower.

THE VALLEY OF THE COLORADO. 29

THE COLORADO VALLEY. 29

This high region, on the east, north, and west, is set with ranges of snow-clad mountains attaining an altitude above the sea varying from 8,000 to 14,000 feet. All winter long snow falls on its mountain-crested rim, filling the gorges, half burying the forests, and covering the crags and peaks with a mantle woven by the winds from the waves of the sea. When the summer sun comes this snow melts and tumbles down the mountain sides in millions of cascades. A million cascade brooks unite to form a thousand torrent creeks; a thousand torrent creeks unite to form half a hundred rivers beset with cataracts; half a hundred roaring rivers unite to form the Colorado, which rolls, a mad, turbid stream, into the Gulf of California.

This lofty region is surrounded by snow-covered mountains rising between 8,000 and 14,000 feet above sea level to the east, north, and west. All winter long, snow falls on its scenic mountain ridges, filling the valleys, partially burying the forests, and covering the cliffs and peaks with a layer shaped by the winds from the ocean waves. When summer arrives, this snow melts and cascades down the mountainsides in countless streams. A million stream brooks come together to form a thousand torrent creeks; a thousand torrent creeks combine to create around fifty rivers filled with waterfalls; and those fifty roaring rivers join together to make the Colorado, which flows as a wild, muddy river into the Gulf of California.

Consider the action of one of these streams. Its source is in the mountains, where the snows fall; its course, through the arid plains. Now, if at the river's flood storms were falling on the plains, its channel would be cut but little faster than the adjacent country would be washed, and the general level would thus be preserved; but under the conditions here mentioned, the river. continually deepens its beds; so all the streams cut deeper and still deeper, until their banks are towering cliffs of solid rock. These deep, narrow gorges are called canyons.

Consider the flow of one of these rivers. It starts in the mountains, where the snow falls, and winds its way through the dry plains. Now, if heavy rains were pouring down on the plains while the river is at its peak, its channel would be dug out only slightly faster than the surrounding land gets eroded, keeping the overall level stable. However, under the conditions described here, the river keeps deepening its bed; as a result, all the rivers cut deeper and deeper until their banks become towering cliffs of solid rock. These deep, narrow valleys are known as canyons.

For more than a thousand miles along its course the Colorado has cut for itself such a canyon; but at some few points where lateral streams join it the canyon is broken, and these narrow, transverse valleys divide it into a series of canyons.

For over a thousand miles, the Colorado has carved out a canyon for itself; however, at a few places where side streams meet it, the canyon gets interrupted, and these narrow, cross valleys split it into a series of canyons.

The Virgen, Kanab, Paria, Escalante, Fremont, San Rafael, Price, and Uinta on the west, the Grand, White, Yampa, San Juan, and Colorado Chiquito on the east, have also cut for themselves such narrow winding gorges, or deep canyons. Every river entering these has cut another canyon; every lateral creek has cut a canyon; every brook runs in a canyon; every rill born of a shower and born again of a shower and living only during these showers has cut for itself a canyon; so that

The Virgen, Kanab, Paria, Escalante, Fremont, San Rafael, Price, and Uinta on the west, and the Grand, White, Yampa, San Juan, and Colorado Chiquito on the east, have carved out narrow, winding gorges and deep canyons. Every river that flows into these has created another canyon; every side creek has carved a canyon; every brook runs through a canyon; every little stream that forms from a rain shower, which exists only during these showers, has created its own canyon; so that

APACHE BASKET

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

the whole upper portion of the basin of the Colorado is traversed by a labyrinth of these deep gorges.

the entire upper part of the Colorado basin is crossed by a maze of these deep gorges.

Owing to a great variety of geological conditions, these canyons differ much in general aspect. The Rio Virgen, between Long Valley and the Mormon town of Rockville, runs through Parunuweap Can-

OUR MESSENGER'S WIFE.

yon, which is often not more than 20 or 30 feet in width and is from 600 to 1,500 feet deep. Away to the north the Yampa empties into the Green by a canyon that I essayed to cross in the fall of 1868, but was baffled from day to day, and the fourth day had nearly passed before I could find my way down to the river. But thirty miles above its mouth this canyon ends, and a narrow valley with a flood plain

yon, which is often only 20 or 30 feet wide and ranges from 600 to 1,500 feet deep. Up north, the Yampa flows into the Green through a canyon that I tried to cross in the fall of 1868, but I faced challenge after challenge, and it took almost four days before I could finally find my way down to the river. But thirty miles upstream from where it empties, this canyon comes to an end, and a narrow valley with a floodplain

RUINS OF TOYALONE.

32 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

is found. Still farther up the stream the river comes down through another canyon, and beyond that a narrow valley is found, and its upper course is now through a canyon and now through a valley. All these canyons are alike changeable in their topographic characteristics.

is found. Further up the stream, the river flows through another canyon, and beyond that, there's a narrow valley. Its upper course alternates between a canyon and a valley. All these canyons share similar and changing topographic features.

The longest canyon through which the Colorado runs is that between the mouth of the Colorado Chiquito and the Grand Wash, a distance of 217 1/2 miles. But this is separated from another above, 65 1/2 miles in length, only by the narrow canyon valley of the Colorado Chiquito.

The longest canyon that the Colorado flows through is the one between the mouth of the Colorado Chiquito and the Grand Wash, which is 217.5 miles long. However, this is separated from another canyon above it, which is 65.5 miles long, only by the narrow canyon valley of the Colorado Chiquito.

All the scenic features of this canyon land are on a giant scale, strange and weird. The streams run at depths almost inaccessible, lashing the rocks which beset their channels, rolling in rapids and plunging in falls, and making a wild music which but adds to the gloom of the solitude. The little valleys nestling along the streams are diversified by bordering willows, clumps of box elder, and small groves of cottonwood.

All the scenic features of this canyon land are massive, unusual, and bizarre. The streams flow at depths that are nearly unreachable, crashing against the rocks lining their channels, surging in rapids and cascading in waterfalls, creating a wild sound that only enhances the eerie solitude. The small valleys tucked alongside the streams are lined with willows, clusters of box elder, and patches of cottonwood trees.

Low mesas, dry, treeless, stretch back from the brink of the canyon, often showing smooth surfaces of naked, solid rock. In some places the country rock is composed of marls, and here the surface is a bed of loose, disintegrated material through which one walks as in a bed of ashes. Often these marls are richly colored and variegated. In other places the country rock is a loose sandstone, the disintegration of which has left broad stretches of drifting sand, white, golden, and vermilion. Where this sandstone is a conglomerate, a paving of pebbles has been left,--a mosaic of many colors, polished by the drifting sands and glistening in the sunlight.

Low mesas, dry and treeless, extend back from the edge of the canyon, often revealing smooth surfaces of bare, solid rock. In some areas, the ground is made of marls, and here the surface is a bed of loose, crumbling material that feels like walking on ashes. These marls are often richly colored and varied. In other spots, the rock consists of loose sandstone, which has broken down to create wide stretches of drifting sand in white, gold, and vermilion. Where this sandstone is a conglomerate, it leaves behind a pavement of pebbles—a colorful mosaic, polished by the shifting sands and sparkling in the sunlight.

After the canyons, the most remarkable features of the country are the long lines of cliffs. These are bold escarpments scores or hundreds of miles in length,--great geographic steps, often hundreds or thousands of feet in altitude, presenting steep faces of rock, often vertical. Having climbed one of these steps, you may descend by a gentle, sometimes imperceptible, slope to the foot of another. They thus present a series of terraces, the steps of which are well-defined escarpments of rock. The lateral extension of such a line of cliffs is usually very irregular; sharp salients are projected on the plains below, and deep recesses are cut into the terraces above. Intermittent streams coming

After the canyons, the most striking features of the country are the long lines of cliffs. These are bold escarpments extending for scores or hundreds of miles—great geographic steps, often hundreds or thousands of feet high, with steep rock faces that can be vertical. Once you climb one of these steps, you can descend by a gentle, sometimes barely noticeable, slope to the base of another. They create a series of terraces, each step being a well-defined escarpment of rock. The lateral stretch of such a line of cliffs is usually quite irregular; sharp projections jut out over the plains below, and deep recesses are carved into the terraces above. Intermittent streams coming

A ZUÑI COURT.

A Zuni court.

ADOBE CHURCH--ZUÑI.

Zuni Adobe Church.

THE VALLEY OF THE COLORADO. 35

THE COLORADO VALLEY. 35

down the cliffs have cut many canyons or canyon valleys, by which the traveler may pass from the plain below to the terrace above. By these gigantic stairways he may ascend to high plateaus, covered with forests of pine and fir.

down the cliffs have carved out many canyons or canyon valleys, allowing travelers to move from the plain below to the terrace above. Using these huge stairways, they can climb up to high plateaus, filled with forests of pine and fir.

The region is further diversified by short ranges of eruptive mountains. A vast system of fissures--huge cracks in the rocks to the depths below--extends across the country. From these crevices floods of lava have poured, covering mesas and table-lands with sheets of black basalt. The expiring energies of these volcanic agencies have piled up huge cinder cones that stand along the fissures, red, brown, and black, naked of vegetation, and conspicuous landmarks, set as they are in contrast to the bright, variegated rocks of sedimentary origin.

The region is further varied by short ranges of volcanic mountains. A vast network of fissures—large cracks in the rocks that go deep down—stretches across the country. From these openings, torrents of lava have flowed, blanketing mesas and plateaus with layers of black basalt. The waning forces of these volcanic activities have created massive cinder cones that line the fissures, standing out in red, brown, and black, bare of vegetation, and serving as noticeable landmarks, especially against the vibrant, colorful rocks of sedimentary origin.

36 These canyon gorges, obstructing cliffs, and desert wastes have prevented the traveler from penetrating the country, so that until the Colorado River Exploring Expedition was organized it was almost unknown. In the early history of the country Spanish adventurers penetrated the region and told marvelous stories of its wonders. It was also traversed by priests who sought to convert the Indian tribes to Christianity. In later days, since the region has been under the control of the United States, various government expeditions have penetrated the land. Yet enough had been seen in the earlier days to foment rumor, and many wonderful stories were told in the hunter's cabin and the prospector's camp--stories of parties entering the gorge in boats and being carried down with fearful velocity into whirlpools where all were overwhelmed in the abyss of waters, and stories of underground passages for the great river into which boats had passed never to be seen again. It was currently believed that the river was lost under the rocks for several hundred miles. There were other accounts of great falls whose roaring music could be heard on the distant mountain summits; and there were stories current of parties wandering on the brink of the canyon and vainly endeavoring to reach the waters below, and perishing with thirst at last in sight of the river which was roaring its mockery into their dying ears.

36 These canyon gorges, steep cliffs, and barren deserts have made it difficult for travelers to explore the area, so until the Colorado River Exploring Expedition was launched, it was mostly uncharted territory. In the early days, Spanish explorers ventured into the region and shared incredible tales of its marvels. It was also crossed by priests who aimed to convert the Native American tribes to Christianity. In more recent times, since the area came under U.S. control, various government expeditions have explored the land. Still, enough had been witnessed in earlier times to spark rumors, and many amazing stories circulated in hunters’ cabins and prospectors' camps—tales of groups entering the gorges in boats, only to be swept away at terrifying speeds into whirlpools where they disappeared into the depths, and stories of underground routes for the mighty river where boats entered and were never seen again. People commonly believed the river was lost beneath the rocks for hundreds of miles. There were also accounts of massive waterfalls whose thunderous sounds could be heard from faraway mountain peaks; and there were stories of parties wandering along the edge of the canyon, desperately trying to reach the waters below, only to perish from thirst, gazing at the river that roared mockingly into their dying ears.

The Indians, too, have woven the mysteries of the canyons into the myths of their religion. Long ago there was a great and wise chief who mourned the death of his wife and would not be comforted,

The Native Americans have also incorporated the mysteries of the canyons into their religious myths. A long time ago, there was a great and wise chief who grieved for his wife’s death and refused to be consoled,

THE SITE OF MOENKOPI.

Moenkopi site.

THE VALLEY OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado River Valley.

until Tavwoats, one of the Indian gods, came to him and told him his wife was in a happier land, and offered to take him there that he might see for himself, if, upon his return, he would cease to mourn. The great chief promised. Then Tavwoats made a trail through the mountains that intervene between that beautiful land, the balmy region of the great west, and this, the desert home of the poor Numa. This trail was the canyon gorge of the Colorado. Through it he led him; and when they had returned the deity exacted from the chief a promise that he would tell no one of the trail. Then he rolled a river into the gorge, a mad, raging stream, that should engulf any that might attempt to enter thereby.

until Tavwoats, one of the Indian gods, came to him and told him his wife was in a happier place and offered to take him there so he could see for himself, as long as he promised to stop mourning upon his return. The great chief agreed. Then Tavwoats created a path through the mountains that lay between that beautiful land, the warm region of the great west, and this, the barren home of the poor Numa. This path became the canyon gorge of the Colorado. He led him through it; and when they returned, the deity made the chief promise he would tell no one about the path. Then he created a river in the gorge, a wild, raging stream, that would swallow anyone who tried to enter it.

MOUNTAIN OF THE HOLY CROSS.

Holy Cross Mountain.

CHAPTER II.

CHAPTER 2.

MESAS AND BUTTES.

Mesas and buttes.

FROM the Grand Canyon of the Colorado a great plateau extends southeastward through Arizona nearly to the line of New Mexico, where this elevated land merges into the Sierra Madre. The general surface of this plateau is from 6,000 to 8,000 feet above the level of the sea. It is sharply defined from the lowlands of Arizona by the Mogollon Escarpment. On the northeast it gradually falls off into the valley of the Little Colorado, and on the north it terminates abruptly in the Grand Canyon.

FROM the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, a large plateau stretches southeast through Arizona, almost reaching the New Mexico border, where it blends into the Sierra Madre. The overall elevation of this plateau ranges from 6,000 to 8,000 feet above sea level. It is clearly separated from the lowlands of Arizona by the Mogollon Escarpment. To the northeast, it gently slopes down into the valley of the Little Colorado, and to the north, it ends sharply at the Grand Canyon.

Various tributaries of the Gila have their sources in this escarpment, and before entering the desolate valley below they run in beautiful canyons which they have carved for themselves in the margin of the plateau. Sometimes these canyons are in the sandstones and limestones which constitute the platform of the great elevated region called the San Francisco Plateau. The escarpment is caused by a fault, the great block of the upper side being lifted several thousand feet above the valley region. Through the fissure lavas poured out, and in many places the escarpment is concealed by sheets of lava. The canyons in these lava beds are often of great interest.

Various tributaries of the Gila start from this steep slope, and before they flow into the barren valley below, they carve out beautiful canyons along the edge of the plateau. Sometimes these canyons are found in the sandstones and limestones that make up the base of the large elevated area known as the San Francisco Plateau. The escarpment is the result of a fault, with the upper block lifted several thousand feet above the valley below. Through the crack, lava flowed out, and in many spots, the escarpment is hidden by layers of lava. The canyons within these lava fields are often quite fascinating.

On the plateau a number of volcanic mountains are found, and black cinder cones are scattered in profusion. Through the forest lands are many beautiful prairies and glades that in midsummer are decked with gorgeous wild flowers. The rains of the region give source to few perennial streams, but intermittent streams have carved deep gorges in the plateau, so that it is divided into many blocks. The upper surface, although forest-clad and covered with beautiful grasses, is almost destitute of water. A few springs are found, but they are far apart, and some of the volcanic craters hold lakelets. The limestone and basaltic rocks sometimes hold pools of water; and where the basins

On the plateau, you'll find a bunch of volcanic mountains, and black cinder cones are scattered everywhere. Among the forested areas, there are many beautiful prairies and clearings that in midsummer are covered with stunning wildflowers. The rains in the area create a few permanent streams, but intermittent streams have carved deep gorges into the plateau, breaking it into many sections. The top surface, though covered in forests and beautiful grasses, lacks water. There are a few springs, but they are widely spaced, and some of the volcanic craters contain small lakes. The limestone and basaltic rocks sometimes hold pools of water; and where the basins

40 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

are deep the waters are perennial. Such pools are known as "water pockets."

This is the great timber region of Arizona. Not many years ago it was a vast park for elk, deer, and antelope, and bears and mountain lions were abundant. This is the last home of the wild turkey in the

This is the great timber area of Arizona. Not too long ago, it was a huge park for elk, deer, and antelope, and bears and mountain lions were plentiful. This is the last habitat of the wild turkey in the

WINGATE CLIFF.

United States, for they are still found here in great numbers. San Francisco Peak is the highest of these volcanic mountains, and about it are grouped in an irregular way many volcanic cones, one of which presents some remarkable characteristics. A portion of the cone is of bright reddish cinders, while the adjacent rocks are of black basalt. The contrast in the colors is so great that on viewing the mountain from a distance the red cinders seem to be on fire. From this circumstance the cone has been named Sunset Peak. When distant from it ten or twenty miles it is hard to believe that the effect is produced by contrasting colors, for the peak seems to glow with a light of its own.

United States, where they are still found in large numbers. San Francisco Peak is the tallest of these volcanic mountains, and around it are several volcanic cones arranged irregularly, one of which has some notable features. A part of the cone is made up of bright reddish cinders, while the nearby rocks are black basalt. The color contrast is so striking that when you look at the mountain from a distance, the red cinders appear to be on fire. Because of this, the cone is called Sunset Peak. When you're ten or twenty miles away, it’s hard to believe that the effect comes from just contrasting colors, as the peak looks like it has its own glow.

In centuries past the San Francisco Plateau was the home of pueblo-building tribes, and the ruins of their habitations are widely scattered over this elevated region. Thousands of little dwellings are found, usually built of blocks of basalt. In some cases they were clustered in little towns, and three of these deserve further mention.

In the past, the San Francisco Plateau was home to pueblo-building tribes, and the remains of their homes can be found all over this high area. Thousands of small dwellings are present, typically made from blocks of basalt. Sometimes, these were grouped together in small towns, and three of these towns deserve special mention.

MESAS AND BUTTES.

Mesas and buttes.

A few miles south of San Francisco Peak there is an intermittent stream known as Walnut Creek. This stream runs in a deep gorge 600 to 800 feet below the general surface. The stream has cut its way through the limestone and through series of sandstones, and bold walls of rock are presented on either side. In some places the softer sandstones lying between the harder limestones and sandstones have yielded to weathering agencies, so that there are caves running along the face of the wall, sometimes for hundreds or thousands of feet, but not very deep. These natural shelves in the rock were utilized by an ancient tribe of Indians for their homes. They built stairways to the waters below and to the hunting grounds above, and lived in the caves. They walled the fronts of the caves with rock, which they covered with plaster, and divided them into compartments or rooms; and now many hundreds of these dwellings are found. Such is the cliff village of

A few miles south of San Francisco Peak, there's an intermittent stream called Walnut Creek. This stream flows in a deep gorge 600 to 800 feet below the surrounding area. It has carved its way through limestone and a series of sandstones, presenting bold rock walls on either side. In some spots, the softer sandstones between the harder limestones and sandstones have weathered away, creating caves along the face of the cliff, sometimes extending for hundreds or thousands of feet, though not very deep. These natural rock shelves were used by an ancient tribe of Native Americans for their homes. They built stairs down to the water below and up to the hunting grounds above, and lived in the caves. They walled the fronts of the caves with stone, covered them with plaster, and divided them into sections or rooms; now, many hundreds of these dwellings can still be found. This is the cliff village of

PYRAMID BUTTE NEAR FORT WINGATE.

Pyramid Butte near Fort Wingate.

Walnut Canyon. In the ruins of these cliff houses mortars and pestles are found in great profusion, and when first discovered many articles of pottery were found, and still many potsherds are seen. The people were

Walnut Canyon. In the remains of these cliff houses, you can find a large number of mortars and pestles, and when they were first uncovered, many pottery items were discovered, with countless fragments still visible today. The people were

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

very skillful in the manufacture of stone implements, especially spears, knives, and arrows.

very skilled in making stone tools, especially spears, knives, and arrows.

East of San Francisco Peak there is another low volcanic cone, composed of ashes which have been slightly cemented by the processes of time, but which can be worked with great ease. On this cone another tribe of Indians made its village, and for the purpose they sunk shafts into the easily worked but partially consolidated ashes, and after penetrating from the surface three or four feet they enlarged the chambers so as to make them ten or twelve feet in diameter. In such a chamber they made a little fireplace, its chimney running up on one side of the

East of San Francisco Peak, there’s another low volcanic cone made of ash that has been lightly cemented over time, making it easy to work with. On this cone, another tribe of Indians built their village. They dug shafts into the easily worked but somewhat solidified ash, and after going three or four feet down from the surface, they expanded the chambers to about ten or twelve feet in diameter. In one of these chambers, they created a small fireplace, with its chimney extending up one side of the

ZUÑI CLIFFS.

Zuni Cliffs.

wellhole by which the chamber was entered. Often they excavated smaller chambers connected with the larger, so that sometimes two, three, four, or even five smaller connecting chambers are grouped about a large central room. The arts of these people resembled those of the people who dwelt in Walnut Canyon. One thing more is worthy of special notice. On the very top of the cone they cleared off a space for a courtyard, or assembly square, and about it they erected booths, and

wellhole by which the chamber was entered. Often they dug out smaller chambers connected to the larger ones, so that sometimes two, three, four, or even five smaller connecting chambers surrounded a big central room. The skills of these people were similar to those of the folks who lived in Walnut Canyon. One more thing is worth mentioning. At the very top of the cone, they cleared a space for a courtyard or assembly square, and around it, they built booths, and

MESAS AND BUTTES.

Mesas and Buttes.

within the square a space of ground was prepared with a smooth floor, on which they performed the ceremonies of their religion and danced to the gods in prayer and praise.

Within the square, a patch of ground was set up with a smooth floor, where they held their religious ceremonies and danced in prayer and praise to the gods.

Some twelve or fifteen miles farther east, in another volcanic cone, a rough crater is found, surrounded by piles of cinders and angular

Some twelve or fifteen miles further east, in another volcanic cone, a rough crater is found, surrounded by piles of cinders and angular

GREAT NECK NINE MILES SOUTH OF SALAZAR.

fragments of lava. In the walls of this crater many caves are found, and here again a village was established, the caves in the scoria being utilized as habitations of men. These little caves were fashioned into rooms of more symmetry and convenience than originally found, and the openings to the caves were walled. Nor did these people neglect the gods, for in this crater town, as in the cinder-cone town, a place of worship was prepared.

fragments of lava. In the walls of this crater, many caves can be found, and here again, a village was established, using the caves in the scoria as homes. These small caves were transformed into rooms that were more organized and convenient than they were originally, and the entrances to the caves were walled off. These people also honored their gods, for in this crater town, just like in the cinder-cone town, a place of worship was created.

Many other caves opening into the canyon and craters of this plateau were utilized in like manner as homes for tribal people, and in one cave far to the south a fine collection of several hundred pieces of pottery has been made.

Many other caves leading into the canyon and craters of this plateau were used in a similar way as homes for tribal people, and in one cave far to the south, a great collection of several hundred pieces of pottery has been found.

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

On the northeast of the San Francisco Plateau is the valley of the Little Colorado, a tributary of the Colorado River. This river is formed by streams that head chiefly on the San Francisco Plateau, but in part on the Zuñi Plateau. The Little Colorado is a marvelous river. In seasons of great rains it is a broad but shallow torrent of mud; in seasons of drought it dwindles and sometimes entirely disappears along portions of its course. The upper tributaries usually run in beautiful box canyons. Then the river flows through a low, desolate, bad-land valley, and the river of mud is broad but shallow, except in seasons of great floods. But fifty miles or more above the junction of this stream with the Colorado River proper, it plunges into a canyon

On the northeast side of the San Francisco Plateau is the valley of the Little Colorado, a tributary of the Colorado River. This river is formed by streams that mainly originate on the San Francisco Plateau, but also partly on the Zuñi Plateau. The Little Colorado is an incredible river. During heavy rain seasons, it becomes a wide but shallow torrent of mud; during dry seasons, it shrinks and sometimes completely vanishes in parts of its path. The upper tributaries typically flow through beautiful box canyons. Then the river moves through a low, desolate, bad-land valley, where the muddy water remains broad but shallow, except during major floods. However, fifty miles or more upstream from where it meets the main Colorado River, it plunges into a canyon.

CINDER CONE AND NECK NORTHEAST OF GRANT STATION.

with limestone walls, and steadily this canyon increases in depth, until at the mouth of the stream it has walls more than 4,000 feet in height. The contrast between this canyon portion and the upper

with limestone walls, and gradually this canyon gets deeper, until at the mouth of the stream it has walls more than 4,000 feet tall. The contrast between this canyon section and the upper

MESAS AND BUTTES.

Mesas and buttes.

valley portion is very great. Above, the river ripples in a broad sheet of mud; below, it plunges with violence over great cataracts and rapids. Above, the bad lands stretch on either hand. This is

valley portion is very large. Above, the river flows in a wide expanse of mud; below, it crashes violently over massive waterfalls and rapids. Above, the badlands extend on either side. This is

TWO LARGE NECKS, THE MORE DISTANT ONE BEING THE CABAZON. MESAS IN THE FOREGROUND.

TWO LARGE NECKS, WITH THE FURTHEST ONE BEING THE CABAZON. MESAS IN THE FOREGROUND.

the region of the Painted Desert, for the marls and soft rocks of which the hills are composed are of many colors--chocolate, red, vermilion, pink, buff, and gray; and the naked hills are carved in fantastic forms. Passing to the region below, suddenly the channel is narrowed and tumbles down into a deep, solemn gorge with towering limestone cliffs.

the area of the Painted Desert, where the marls and soft rocks that make up the hills come in many colors—chocolate, red, vermilion, pink, buff, and gray; and the bare hills are shaped in amazing ways. Moving to the area below, the channel suddenly narrows and drops into a deep, serious gorge with towering limestone cliffs.

All round the margin of the valley of the Little Colorado, on the side next to the Zuñi Plateau and on the side next to the San Francisco Plateau, every creek and every brook runs in a beautiful canyon. Then down in the valley there are stretches of desert covered with sage and grease wood. Still farther down we come to the bad lands of the Painted Desert; and scattered through the entire region low mesas or smaller plateaus are everywhere found.

All around the edges of the Little Colorado valley, on the side next to the Zuñi Plateau and the side next to the San Francisco Plateau, every creek and brook flows through a beautiful canyon. Further down in the valley, there are stretches of desert filled with sage and greasewood. Even farther down, we reach the badlands of the Painted Desert, and scattered throughout the entire area are low mesas and smaller plateaus.

On the northeast side of the Little Colorado a great mesa country stretches far to the northward. These mesas are but minor plateaus that are separated by canyons and canyon valleys, and sometimes by

On the northeast side of the Little Colorado, a vast mesa region extends northward. These mesas are basically small plateaus that are divided by canyons and canyon valleys, and occasionally by

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

low sage plains. They rise from a few hundred to 2,000 or 3,000 feet above the lowlands on which they are founded. The distinction between plateaus and mesas is vague; in fact, in local usage the term mesa is usually applied to all of these tables which do not carry volcanic moun-

low sage plains. They rise from a few hundred to 2,000 or 3,000 feet above the lowlands on which they sit. The difference between plateaus and mesas is unclear; in fact, in local usage, the term mesa is generally used for all of these flat-topped areas that do not have volcanic mountains.

NECK SIX MILES NORTHEAST OF JUANTAFOYA.

tains. The mesas are carved out of platforms of horizontal or nearly horizontal rocks by perennial or intermittent streams, and as the climate is exceedingly arid most of the streams flow only during seasons of rain, and for the greater part of the year they are dry arroyos. Many of the longer channels are dry for long periods. Some of them are opened only by floods that come ten or twenty years apart.

tains. The mesas are formed from layers of flat or nearly flat rocks by year-round or occasional streams, and since the climate is extremely dry, most of the streams only flow during rainy seasons, leaving them as dry arroyos for most of the year. Many of the longer channels remain dry for extended periods. Some of them are only filled by floods that occur once every ten to twenty years.

The region is also characterized by many buttes. These are plateaus or mesas of still smaller dimensions in horizontal distance, though their altitude may be hundreds or thousands of feet. Like the mesas and plateaus, they sometimes form very conspicuous features of a landscape and are of marvelous beauty by reason of their sculptured escarpments. Below they are often buttressed on a magnificent scale. Softer beds give rise to a vertical structure of buttresses and columns, while the harder strata appear in great horizontal lines, suggesting

The area is also marked by numerous buttes. These are smaller plateaus or mesas that might not cover much horizontal distance, but they can rise hundreds or even thousands of feet high. Like the mesas and plateaus, they often stand out in the landscape and are stunningly beautiful because of their sculpted edges. Below, they are typically supported by magnificent formations. Softer layers create a vertical structure of buttresses and columns, while the tougher layers show up in large horizontal lines, suggesting

MESAS AND BUTTES.

Mesas and buttes.

architectural entablature. Then the strata of which these buttes are composed are of many vivid colors; so color and form unite in producing architectural effects, and the buttes often appear like Cyclopean temples.

architectural entablature. Then the layers that make up these buttes are made up of many bright colors; so color and shape come together to create architectural effects, and the buttes often look like giant temples.

There is yet one other peculiarity of this landscape deserving mention here. Before the present valleys and canyons were carved and the mesas lifted in relief, the region was one of great volcanic activity. In various places vents were formed and floods of lava poured in sheets over the land. Then for a time volcanic action ceased, and rains and rivers carved out the valleys and left the mesas and mountains standing. These same agencies carried away the lava beds that spread over the lands. But wherever there was a lava vent it was filled with molten matter, which on cooling was harder than the sandstones and marls through which it penetrated. The chimney to the region of fire below was thus filled with a black rock which yielded more

There’s one more unique feature of this landscape worth mentioning. Before the current valleys and canyons were formed and the mesas were raised, this area experienced a lot of volcanic activity. Vents opened up in various places, and streams of lava flowed in sheets across the land. Then, for a while, the volcanic activity stopped, and rain and rivers carved out the valleys, leaving the mesas and mountains intact. These same forces eroded the lava beds that spread across the land. But wherever there was a lava vent, it was filled with molten rock, which, when it cooled, became harder than the sandstones and marls surrounding it. The passage to the fiery region below was thus filled with a black rock that produced more

A GROUP OF NECKS NEAR MOUNT TAYLOR.

slowly to the disintegrating agencies of weather, and so black rocks rise up from mesas on every hand. These are known as volcanic necks, and, being of a somber color, in great contrast with the vividly colored rocks from which they rise and by which they are surrounded, they

slowly to the crumbling forces of weather, and so black rocks emerge from mesas all around. These are called volcanic necks, and their dark color sharply contrasts with the brightly colored rocks that rise from and surround them.

PANORAMA FROM THE EDGE OF MOUNT TAYLOR MESA.

MESAS AND BUTTES. 49

Mesas and buttes. 49

lend a strange aspect to the landscape. Besides these necks, there are a few volcanic mountains that tower over all the landscape and gather about themselves the clouds of heaven. Mount Taylor, which stands over the divide on the drainage of the Rio Grande del Norte, is one of the most imposing of the dead volcanoes of this region. Still later eruptions of lava are found here and there, and in the present valleys and canyons sheets of black basalt are often found. These are known as coulees, and sometimes from these coulees cinder cones arise.

lend a strange look to the landscape. In addition to these necks, there are a few volcanic mountains that dominate the area and collect clouds above them. Mount Taylor, which rises over the divide on the drainage of the Rio Grande del Norte, is one of the most striking of the extinct volcanoes in this region. More recent lava flows can be spotted here and there, and in the current valleys and canyons, sheets of black basalt are often seen. These are called coulees, and sometimes, cinder cones emerge from these coulees.

This valley of the Little Colorado is also the site of many ruins, and the villages or towns found in such profusion were of mueh larger size than those on the San Francisco Plateau. Some of the pueblo-building peoples yet remain. The Zuñi Indians still occupy their homes, and they prove to be a most interesting people. They have cultivated the soil from time immemorial. They build their houses of stone and line them with plaster; and they have many interesting arts, being skilled potters and deft weavers. The seasons are about equally divided between labor, worship, and play.

This valley of the Little Colorado is also home to many ruins, and the villages or towns found here are much larger than those on the San Francisco Plateau. Some of the pueblo-building peoples still exist. The Zuñi Indians continue to live in their homes and are truly fascinating people. They've been farming the land for generations. They construct their houses out of stone and coat them with plaster, and they have many interesting arts, being talented potters and skilled weavers. The seasons are roughly split between work, worship, and leisure.

A hundred miles to the northwest of the Zuñí pueblo are the seven pueblos of Tusayan: Oraibi, Shumopavi, Shupaulovi, Mashongnavi, Sichumovi, Walpi, and llano. These towns are built on high cliffs. The people speak a language radically different from that of the Zuñi, but, with the exception of that of the inhabitants of Hano, closely allied to that of the Utes. The people of Hano are Tewans, whose ancestors moved from the Rio Grande to Tusayan during the great Pueblo revolt against Spanish authority in 1680-96.

A hundred miles northwest of the Zuñí pueblo are the seven pueblos of Tusayan: Oraibi, Shumopavi, Shupaulovi, Mashongnavi, Sichumovi, Walpi, and llano. These towns are built on high cliffs. The people speak a language that is very different from that of the Zuñi, but, except for the inhabitants of Hano, it is closely related to that of the Utes. The people of Hano are Tewans, whose ancestors moved from the Rio Grande to Tusayan during the major Pueblo revolt against Spanish rule from 1680 to 1696.

Between the Little Colorado and the Rio San Juan there is a vast system of plateaus, mesas, and buttes, volcanic mountains, volcanic cones, and volcanic cinder cones. Some of the plateaus are forest-clad and have perennial waters and are gemmed with lakelets. The mesas are sometimes treeless, but are often covered with low, straggling, gnarled cedars and pifions, trees that are intermediate in size between the bushes of sage in the desert and the forest trees of the elevated regions. On the western margin of this district the great Navajo Mountain stands, on the brink of Glen Canyon, and from its summit many of the stupendous gorges of the Colorado River can be seen. Central in the region stand the Carrizo Mountains, the Lukachukai

Between the Little Colorado and the Rio San Juan, there’s a huge network of plateaus, mesas, and buttes, as well as volcanic mountains, cones, and cinder cones. Some of the plateaus are covered in forests, have year-round water, and are dotted with small lakes. The mesas are sometimes bare of trees but often have low, twisted cedars and pinyon pines, which are taller than sagebrush in the desert but smaller than the trees found in high forested areas. On the western edge of this area stands the impressive Navajo Mountain, overlooking Glen Canyon, and from its peak, many of the breathtaking gorges of the Colorado River can be viewed. In the center of the region lie the Carrizo Mountains and the Lukachukai.

PANORAMA IN THE VALLEY OF THE PUERCO.

MESAS AND BUTTES. 51

Mesas and Buttes. 51

Mountains, the Tunitcha Mountains, and the Chusca Mountains, which in fact constitute one system, extending from north to south in the order named. These are really plateaus crowned with volcanic peaks.

Mountains, the Tunitcha Mountains, and the Chusca Mountains, which actually make up one system, stretch from north to south in that order. These are essentially plateaus topped with volcanic peaks.

But the district we are now describing, which stretches from the Little Colorado to the San Juan, is best characterized by its canyons. The whole region is a labyrinth of gorges. On the west the Navajo Creek and its tributaries run in profound chasms. Farther south the Moencopie with its tributaries is a labyrinth of gorges; and all the streams that run west into the Colorado, south into the Little Colorado, or north into the San Juan have carved deep, wild, and romantic gorges. Immediately west of the Chusca Plateau the Canyon del Muerta and the Canyon de Chelly are especially noticeable. Many of these canyons are carved in a homogeneous red sandstone, and their walls are often vertical for hundreds of feet. Sometimes the canyons widen into narrow valleys, which are thus walled by impassable cliffs, except where lateral canyons cut their way through the battlements.

But the area we’re describing now, which stretches from the Little Colorado to the San Juan, is best known for its canyons. The whole region is like a maze of gorges. To the west, Navajo Creek and its tributaries flow through deep chasms. Further south, the Moencopie and its tributaries create another maze of gorges; all the streams flowing west into the Colorado, south into the Little Colorado, or north into the San Juan have carved out deep, wild, and stunning gorges. Just west of the Chusca Plateau, the Canyon del Muerta and the Canyon de Chelly stand out. Many of these canyons are formed in a uniform red sandstone, and their walls often rise steeply for hundreds of feet. Sometimes the canyons widen into narrow valleys, which are enclosed by sheer cliffs, except where side canyons break through the walls.

In these mountains, plateaus, mesas, and canyons the Navajo Indians have their home. The Navajos are intruders in this country. They belong to the Athapascan stock of British America and speak an Athapascan language, like the Apaches of the Sierra Madre country. They are a stately, athletic, and bold people. While yet this country was a part of Mexico they acquired great herds of horses and flocks of sheep, and lived in opulence compared with many of the other tribes of North America. After the acquisition of this territory by the United States they became disaffected by reason of encroaching civilization, and the petty wars between United States troops and the Navajos were in the main disastrous to our forces, due in part to the courage, skill, and superior numbers of the Navajos and in part to the character of the country, which is easily defended, as the routes of travel along the canyons present excellent opportunities for defense and ambuscade. But under the leadership and by the advice of Kit Carson these Indians were ultimately conquered. This wily but brave frontiersman recommended a new method of warfare, which was to destroy the herds and flocks of the Navajos; and this course was pursued. Regular troops with volunteers from California and New Mexico went into the Navajo country and shot down their herds of half-wild horses,

In these mountains, plateaus, mesas, and canyons, the Navajo people have their home. The Navajos are newcomers in this land. They are part of the Athapascan group from British America and speak an Athapascan language, similar to the Apaches from the Sierra Madre region. They are a dignified, athletic, and fierce people. When this land was still part of Mexico, they acquired large herds of horses and flocks of sheep, living in luxury compared to many other tribes in North America. After the United States took control of this territory, they became discontent due to the encroaching civilization, and the small skirmishes between U.S. troops and the Navajos were mostly disastrous for our side, partly because of the courage, skill, and superior numbers of the Navajos, and partly because of the terrain, which is easily defendable, as the travel routes along the canyons offer great opportunities for defense and ambush. However, under the leadership and advice of Kit Carson, these Indians were eventually defeated. This clever yet brave frontiersman suggested a new way of fighting: to destroy the Navajos' herds and flocks; and this strategy was implemented. Regular troops, along with volunteers from California and New Mexico, entered Navajo territory and killed off their herds of semi-wild horses,

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

killed hundreds of thousands of sheep, cut down their peach orchards which were scattered about the springs and little streams, destroyed their irrigating works, and devastated their little patches of corn, squashes, and melons; and entirely neglected the Navajos themselves, who were concealed among the rocks of the canyons. Seeing the destruction wrought upon their means of livelihood, the Navajos at once yielded. More than 8,000 of them surrendered at one time, coming in in straggling bands. They were then removed far to the east, near to the Texas line, and established on a reservation at the Bosque Redondo. Here they engaged in civilized farming. A great system

killed hundreds of thousands of sheep, destroyed their peach orchards that dotted the springs and small streams, wrecked their irrigation systems, and ruined their small plots of corn, squash, and melons; and completely overlooked the Navajos themselves, who were hiding among the rocks in the canyons. Witnessing the devastation of their way of life, the Navajos quickly surrendered. More than 8,000 of them turned themselves in at once, arriving in small groups. They were then relocated far to the east, near the Texas border, and settled on a reservation at Bosque Redondo. There, they started farming in a more modern way. A large system

RUINS AT THE HEAD OF MCELMO CANYON.

of irrigation was developed; but the appropriations necessary for the maintenance of so large a body of people in the course of their passage from savagery to civilization seemed too great to those responsible for making grants from the national treasury, and just before 1870 the Navajos were permitted to break up their homes at the Bosque Redondo and return to the canyons and cliffs of their ancient land. Millions were spent in conquering them where thousands were used to civilize them, so that they were conquered but not civilized. Still, they are making good progress, and have once more acquired large flocks and herds. It is estimated that they now have more than a million sheep. Their experience in irrigation at the Bosque Redondo has

of irrigation was developed; but the funding needed to support such a large population during their transition from savagery to civilization seemed too high to those in charge of allocating money from the national treasury. So, just before 1870, the Navajos were allowed to dismantle their homes at the Bosque Redondo and return to the canyons and cliffs of their ancestral land. Millions were spent conquering them when only thousands were used to civilize them, meaning they were defeated but not truly civilized. Still, they are making significant progress and have once again amassed large flocks and herds. It’s estimated that they now own over a million sheep. Their experience with irrigation at the Bosque Redondo has

MESAS AND BUTTES.

Mesas and buttes.

not been wholly wasted, for they now cultivate the soil by methods of irrigation greatly improved over those used in the earlier time. Originally they dwelt in hogans, or houses made of poles arranged with much skill in conical form, the poles being covered with reeds and the reeds with earth; now they are copying the dwelling places of civilized men. They have also acquired great skill in the manufacture of silver ornaments, with which they decorate themselves and the trappings of their steeds.

not been completely wasted, because they now farm the land using much better irrigation techniques than in the past. At first, they lived in hogans, which are houses made from poles arranged skillfully in a cone shape, with the poles covered in reeds and dirt; now they're mimicking the homes of more modern societies. They've also become highly skilled at making silver jewelry, which they use to adorn themselves and their horses.

Perhaps the most interesting ruins of America are found in this region. The ancient pueblos found here are of superior structure, but

Perhaps the most fascinating ruins in America are located in this region. The ancient pueblos found here have exceptional architecture, but

A NAVAJO HOGAN.

A Navajo home.

they were all built by a people whom the Navajos displaced when they migrated from the far North. Wherever there is water, near by an ancient ruin may be found; and these ruins are gathered about centers, the centers being larger pueblos and the scattered ruins representing single houses. The ancient people lived in villages, or pueblos, but during the growing season they scattered about by the springs and streams to cultivate the soil by irrigation, and wherever there was a little farm or garden patch, there was built a summer house of stone. When times of war came, especially when they were invaded by the Navajos, these ancient people left their homes in the pueblos and by the streams and constructed temporary homes in the cliffs and canyon

they were all built by a group of people who the Navajos displaced when they migrated from the far North. Wherever there is water, you can find an ancient ruin nearby; these ruins are clustered around larger pueblos, while the scattered ruins represent individual homes. The ancient people lived in villages or pueblos, but during the growing season, they spread out near the springs and streams to farm the land using irrigation. Wherever there was a small farm or garden, a summer house made of stone was built. When wars broke out, particularly when they were attacked by the Navajos, these ancient people left their homes in the pueblos and by the streams and built temporary shelters in the cliffs and canyons.

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

walls. Such cliff ruins are abundant throughout the region, intimately the ancient pueblo peoples succumbed to the prowess of the Navajos and were driven out. A part joined related tribes in the valley of the Bio Grande; others joined the Zuñi and the people of Tusayan; and stall others pushed on beyond the Little Colorado to the San Francisco Plateau and far down into the valley of the Gila.

walls. There are many cliff ruins in the area, where the ancient pueblo peoples fell to the strength of the Navajos and were forced out. Some joined related tribes in the Rio Grande valley; others allied with the Zuni and the people of Tusayan; and still others moved beyond the Little Colorado to the San Francisco Plateau and deep into the Gila valley.

AN ANCIENT COILED VASE FROM TUSAYAN.

Farther to the east, on the border of the region which we have described, beyond the drainage of the Little Colorado and San Juan and within the drainage of the Rio Grande, there lies an interesting plateau region, which forms a part of the Plateau Province and which is worthy of description. This is the great Tewan Plateau, which carries several groups of mountains. The western edge of this plateau is known as the

Farther east, at the edge of the area we've described, beyond the Little Colorado and San Juan watersheds and within the Rio Grande watershed, there’s an intriguing plateau area that is part of the Plateau Province and deserves attention. This is the vast Tewan Plateau, which features several mountain ranges. The western edge of this plateau is called the

MESAS AND BUTTES. 55

Mesas and buttes. 55

Nacimiento Mountain, a long north-and-south range of granite, which presents a bold facade to the valley of the Puerco on the west. Ascending to the summit of this granite range, there is presented to the eastward a plateau of vast proportions, which stretches far toward Santa Fe and is terminated by the canyon of the Rio Grande del Norte. The eastern flank of this range as it slowly rose was a gentle slope, but as it came up fissures were formed and volcanoes burst forth and poured out their floods of lava, and now many extinct volcanoes can be seen. The plateau was built by these volcanoes--sheets of lava piled on sheets of lava hundreds and even thousands of feet in thickness. But with the floods of lava came great explosions, like that of Krakatoa, by which the heavens were filled with volcanic dust. These explosions came at different times and at different places, but they were of enormous magnitude, and when the dust fell again from the clouds it piled up in beds scores and hundreds of feet in thickness. So the Tewan Plateau has a foundation of red sandstone; upon this are piled sheets of lava and sheets of dust in many alternating layers. It is estimated that there still remain more than two hundred cubic miles of this dust, now compacted into somewhat coherent rocks and interpolated between sheets of lava. Everywhere this dust-formed rock is exceedingly light. Much of it has a specific gravity so low that it will float on water. Above the sheets of lava and above the beds of volcanic dust great volcanic cones rise, and the whole upper region is covered with forests interspersed with beautiful prairies. The plateau itself is intersected with many deep, narrow canyons, having walls of lava, volcanic dust, or tufa, and red sandstone. It is a beautiful region. The low mesas on every side are almost treeless and are everywhere deserts, but the great Tewan Plateau is booned with abundant rains, and it is thus a region of forests and meadows, divided into blocks by deep, precipitous canyons and crowned with cones that rise to an altitude of from 10,000 to 12,000 feet.

Nacimiento Mountain is a long north-south granite range that forms a striking backdrop to the Puerco Valley on the west. As you ascend to the summit of this granite range, you can see a vast plateau to the east that stretches far toward Santa Fe and ends at the canyon of the Rio Grande del Norte. The eastern side of this range has a gentle slope that gradually rises, but fissures formed along this ascent, and volcanoes erupted, spilling out floods of lava, leaving many extinct volcanoes visible today. The plateau was created by these volcanoes, with layers of lava stacked on top of each other to hundreds and even thousands of feet in thickness. Along with the lava flows came massive explosions, like that of Krakatoa, which filled the sky with volcanic dust. These eruptions occurred at various times and locations, but they were incredibly powerful, and when the dust settled, it formed thick layers of several scores and hundreds of feet. The Tewan Plateau has a base of red sandstone, layered with sheets of lava and alternating layers of dust. It is estimated that there are still over two hundred cubic miles of this dust, now compacted into somewhat solid rocks caught between the lava layers. Much of this dust-formed rock is extremely light, with a specific gravity so low that it can float on water. Above the lava sheets and volcanic dust beds, large volcanic cones rise, and the entire upper region is covered with forests interspersed with beautiful meadows. The plateau itself is crisscrossed by many deep, narrow canyons with walls made of lava, volcanic dust, tufa, or red sandstone. It is a stunning area. The low mesas surrounding it are nearly treeless and mostly deserts, but the expansive Tewan Plateau enjoys ample rainfall, making it a region of forests and meadows, divided into sections by deep, steep canyons and topped with cones that reach heights of 10,000 to 12,000 feet.

For many centuries the Tewan Plateau, with its canyons below and its meadows and forests above, has been the home of tribes of Tewan Indians, who built pueblos, sometimes of the red sandstones in the canyons, but oftener of blocks of tufa, or volcanic dust. This light material can be worked with great ease, and with crude tools of the

For many centuries, the Tewan Plateau, with its canyons below and its meadows and forests above, has been home to tribes of Tewan Indians, who built pueblos, sometimes from the red sandstone in the canyons, but more often from blocks of tufa or volcanic ash. This lightweight material can be easily worked with simple tools.

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

harder lavas they cut out blocks of the tufa and with them built pueblos two or three stories high. The blocks are usually about twenty inches in length, eight inches in width, and six inches in thickness, though they vary somewhat in size. On the volcanic cones which dominate the country these people built shrines and worshiped their gods with offerings of meal and water and with prayer symbols made of the plumage of the birds of the air. When the Navajo invasion came, by which kindred tribes were displaced from the district farther west, these Tewan Indians left their pueblos on the plateau and their dwellings by the rivers below in the depths of the canyon and constructed cavate homes for themselves; that is, they excavated chambers in the cliffs where these cliffs were composed of soft, friable tufa. On the face of the cliff, hundreds of feet high and thousands of feet or even miles in length, they dug out chambers with stone tools, these chambers being little rooms eight or ten feet in diameter. Sometimes two or more such chambers connected. Then they constructed stairways in the soft rock, by which their cavate houses were reached; and in these rock shelters they lived during times

harder lavas they cut out blocks of tufa and used them to build pueblos two or three stories high. The blocks are typically about twenty inches long, eight inches wide, and six inches thick, though their sizes can vary a bit. On the volcanic cones that dominate the area, these people built shrines and worshipped their gods with offerings of meal and water and with prayer symbols made from bird feathers. When the Navajo invasion occurred, forcing related tribes out of the region to the west, the Tewan Indians abandoned their pueblos on the plateau and their homes by the rivers in the canyon below. They then created cavate homes by digging out chambers in the cliffs, which were made of soft, crumbly tufa. On the sheer cliffs, hundreds of feet high and stretching for thousands of feet or even miles, they carved out chambers using stone tools, with these chambers being small rooms about eight or ten feet in diameter. Sometimes two or more of these chambers were connected. They built stairways in the soft rock to access their cavate houses, and in these rock shelters, they lived during certain times.

A TYPICAL CLIFF DWELLING.

A typical cliff house.

A ROOM IN A PUEBLO.

A room in A Pueblo.

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

of war. When the Navajo invasion was long past, civilized men as Spanish adventurers entered this country from Mexico, and again the Tewan peoples left their homes on the mesas and by the canyons to find safety in the cavate dwellings of the cliffs; and now the archaeologist in the study of this country discovers these two periods of construction and occupation of the cavate dwellings of the Tewan Indians.

of war. When the Navajo invasion was long over, civilized men like Spanish adventurers came into this land from Mexico, and once again the Tewan peoples abandoned their homes on the mesas and near the canyons to seek safety in the cliffside cavate dwellings; now, archaeologists studying this area are uncovering these two periods of building and occupation of the cavate dwellings of the Tewan Indians.

North of the Rio San Juan another vast plateau region is found, stretching to the Grand River. The mountains of this region are the La Plata Mountains, Bear River Mountains, and San Miguel Mountains on the east, and the Sierra El Late, the Sierra Abajo, and the Sierra La Sal on the west, the latter standing near the brink of Cataract Canyon, through which the Colorado flows immediately below the junction of the Grand and Green. Throughout the region mountains, volcanic cones, volcanic necks, and coulees are found, while the mountains themselves rise to great altitudes and are forest-clad. Some of the plateaus attain huge proportions, and between the plateaus labyrinthian mesas are found. Buttes, as stupendous cameos, are scattered everywhere, and the whole region is carved with canyons.

North of the Rio San Juan, there’s another large plateau area that extends to the Grand River. The mountains in this region include the La Plata Mountains, Bear River Mountains, and San Miguel Mountains to the east, and the Sierra El Late, Sierra Abajo, and Sierra La Sal to the west. The Sierra La Sal is situated near the edge of Cataract Canyon, where the Colorado River flows just below the confluence of the Grand and Green rivers. Across the area, you'll find mountains, volcanic cones, volcanic necks, and coulees, with the mountains themselves towering to impressive heights and covered in forests. Some of the plateaus are incredibly vast, and labyrinthine mesas can be found between them. Buttes, resembling gigantic sculptures, are scattered throughout, and the entire region is filled with canyons.

Grand River heads on the back of Long's Peak, in the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains of central Colorado. At the foot of the mountain lies Grand Lake, a sheet of emerald water that duplicates the forest standing on its brink. Out of the lake flows Grand River, gathering on

Grand River starts at the back of Long's Peak in the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains in central Colorado. At the base of the mountain is Grand Lake, a beautiful green body of water that mirrors the forest surrounding it. From the lake flows Grand River, collecting on

A NAVAJO READY FOR A JOURNEY.

A NAVAJO PREPARED FOR A JOURNEY.

MESAS AND BUTTES.

Mesas and buttes.

its way the many mountain streams whose waters fill the solitude with perennial music--a symphony of cascades. In Middle Park boiling springs issue from depths below and gather in pools covered with con-fervae. Leaving Middle Park the river goes through a great range known as the Gore's Pass Mountains; and still it flows on toward the Colorado, now through canyon and now through valley, until the last forty miles of its course it finds its way through a beautiful gorge known as Grand River Canyon. In its principal course this canyon is a bright red homogeneous sandstone, and the walls are often vertical and of great symmetry. Farther down, its walls are rugged and angular, being composed of limestones.

its way the many mountain streams whose waters fill the solitude with perennial music—a symphony of waterfalls. In Middle Park, boiling springs emerge from deep underground and collect in pools covered with green algae. After Middle Park, the river flows through a major range known as the Gore's Pass Mountains; and it continues toward the Colorado, sometimes through canyons and sometimes through valleys, until it reaches the last forty miles of its journey through a stunning gorge called Grand River Canyon. In its main stretch, this canyon features bright red, uniform sandstone, and the walls are often vertical and perfectly shaped. Further down, the walls become rough and angular, made up of limestone.

The principal tributaries from the south are the Blue, which heads in Mt. Lincoln, and the Gunnison, which heads in the Wasatch Mountains. These streams are also characterized by deep canyons and plateaus, and mesas abound on every hand. Between the Grand River and the White River, farther to the east, the Tavaputs Plateau is found. It begins at the foot of Gore's Pass Range and extends down between the rivers last mentioned to the very brink of Green River, which is in fact the upper Colorado. Between the Grand River and the

The main tributaries coming from the south are the Blue River, which starts at Mt. Lincoln, and the Gunnison River, originating in the Wasatch Mountains. These rivers are known for their deep canyons, plateaus, and numerous mesas all around. In between the Grand River and the White River, further to the east, lies the Tavaputs Plateau. It begins at the base of Gore's Pass Range and stretches down between the two rivers mentioned, reaching all the way to the edge of the Green River, which is actually the upper part of the Colorado River. Between the Grand River and the

A NAVAJO BOY.

A Navajo kid.

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

foot of this plateau there is a low, narrow valley with mesas and buttes. Then the country suddenly rises by a stupendous line of cliffs 2,000 or 3,000 feet high. These cliffs are composed of sand stones, limestones, and shales, of many colors. The stratification in many places is minute, so that they have been called the Book Cliffs.

At the base of this plateau, there’s a small, narrow valley filled with mesas and buttes. Then the land suddenly rises into a huge line of cliffs that are 2,000 to 3,000 feet tall. These cliffs are made up of sandstone, limestone, and shale, in a variety of colors. In many places, the layering is so fine that they’ve been called the Book Cliffs.

GARDENS OF ZUÑI.

ZUÑI GARDENS.

From the cliffs many salients are projected into the valleys, and within deep re-entering angles vast amphitheaters appear. About the projected salients many towering buttes, with pinnacles and minarets, are found. The long, narrow plateau is covered with a forest along its summit, and, though it rises abruptly on the south side from Grand River Valley, it descends more gently toward the White River, and on

From the cliffs, many points extend into the valleys, and deep, re-entering angles create vast amphitheaters. Surrounding these projecting points are many towering buttes, with their peaks and spires. The long, narrow plateau is topped with a forest, and while it rises steeply on the south side from Grand River Valley, it slopes down more gently towards the White River, and on

MESAS AND BUTTES.

Mesas and Buttes.

A TUSAYAN LADDER.

this slope many canyons of rare beauty are seen. Plateaus and mesas and canyons and buttes characterize the region north of White River and stretch out to the Yampa. The Yampa itself has an important tributary from the northwest, known as Snake River. Just below the affluence of the Snake with the Yampa a strange phenomenon is observed. Right athwart the course of the river rises a great dome-shaped mountain, with valley stretches on every side, and through this mountain the river runs, dividing it by a beautiful canyon, through which it flows to its junction with the Green. This canyon is in soft, white sandstone, usually with vertical walls varying from 500 to 2,000 feet in height, and the river flows in a gentle winding way through all this stretch. To the east of this plateau region, with its mesas and buttes and its volcanic mountains, stand the southern Rocky Mountains, or Park Mountains, a system of north-and-south ranges. These ranges are huge billows in the crust of the earth out of which mountains have been carved. The parks of Colorado are great valley basins enclosed by these ranges, and over their surfaces moss agates are scattered. The mountains are covered with dense forests and are rugged and wild. The higher peaks rise above the timber line and are naked gorges of rocks. In them the Platte and Arkansas rivers head and flow eastward to join the Missouri River. Here also heads the Rio Grande del Norte, which flows southward into the Gulf of Mexico, and still to the west head many streams which pour into the Colorado waters destined for the Gulf of California. Throughout all of this region drained by the Grand, White, and Yampa rivers, there are many beautiful parks. The great moun-

this slope reveals many canyons of breathtaking beauty. The region north of White River is marked by plateaus, mesas, canyons, and buttes, extending all the way to the Yampa River. The Yampa itself includes an important tributary from the northwest called Snake River. Just below where the Snake River merges with the Yampa, a fascinating phenomenon occurs. Right across the river’s path stands a massive dome-shaped mountain, surrounded by valleys, with the river cutting through it, creating a stunning canyon as it flows toward its meeting point with the Green. This canyon is made of soft, white sandstone, typically featuring vertical walls ranging from 500 to 2,000 feet high, and the river meanders gently through this stretch. East of this plateau region, filled with mesas, buttes, and volcanic mountains, lies the southern Rocky Mountains, also known as the Park Mountains, which consist of north-south mountain ranges. These ranges are massive waves in the Earth's crust from which mountains have been formed. The parks of Colorado are large valley basins enclosed by these ranges, dotted with moss agates on their surfaces. The mountains are dense with forests and have a rugged, wild appearance. The higher peaks rise above the tree line, revealing bare rock gorges. The Platte and Arkansas rivers originate here and flow eastward to join the Missouri River. This area is also the source of the Rio Grande del Norte, which flows south into the Gulf of Mexico, while many streams to the west flow into the Colorado River, heading toward the Gulf of California. Throughout this region, drained by the Grand, White, and Yampa rivers, there are numerous beautiful parks. The great moun-

A ZUÑÍ STOOL.

A Zuni stool.

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

tain slopes are still covered with primeval forests. Springs, brooks, rivers, and lakes abound, and the waters are filled with trout. Not many years ago the hills were covered with game--elk on the mountains, deer on the plateaus, antelope in the valleys, and beavers building their cities on the streams. The plateaus are covered with low, dwarf oaks and many shrubs bearing berries, and in the chaparral of this region cinnamon bears are still abundant.

Certain slopes are still covered with ancient forests. Springs, brooks, rivers, and lakes are plentiful, and the waters are filled with trout. Not long ago, the hills were teeming with wildlife—elk on the mountains, deer on the plateaus, antelope in the valleys, and beavers building their homes along the streams. The plateaus are populated with low, dwarf oaks and various shrubs that bear berries, and in the chaparral of this area, cinnamon bears are still common.

From time immemorial the region drained by the Grand, White, and Yampa rivers has been the home of Ute tribes of the Shoshonean

From ancient times, the area fed by the Grand, White, and Yampa rivers has been the home of Ute tribes of the Shoshonean.

A TUSAYAN FIELD SHELTER.

A TUSAYAN FIELD SHED.

family of Indians. These people built their shelters of boughs and bark, and to some extent lived in tents made of the skins of animals. They never cultivated the soil, but gathered wild seeds and roots and were famous hunters and fishermen. As the region abounds in game, these tribes have always been well clad in skins and furs. The men wore blouse, loincloth leggins, and moccasins, and the women dressed in short kilts. It is curious to notice the effect which the contact of civilization has had upon these women's dress. Even twenty years ago they had lengthened their skirts; and dresses, made of buckskin, fringed with furs, and beaded with elk teeth, were worn so long that they trailed

family of Indians. These people built their homes using branches and bark, and sometimes lived in tents made from animal skins. They didn’t farm the land but gathered wild seeds and roots and were known for being excellent hunters and fishermen. Since the area is rich in wildlife, these tribes have always dressed in skins and furs. The men wore blouses, loincloths, leggings, and moccasins, while the women wore short skirts. It’s interesting to see how contact with civilization has changed these women’s clothing. Even twenty years ago, they had started to lengthen their skirts; dresses made of buckskin, decorated with fur fringes and elk teeth beads, were worn long enough to trail on the ground.

MESAS AND BUTTES.

Mesas and buttes.

on the ground. Neither men nor women wore any headdress except on festival occasions for decoration; then the women wore little basket bonnets decorated with feathers, and the men wore headdresses made of the skins of ducks, geese, eagles, and other large birds. Sometimes they would prepare the skin of the head of the elk or deer, or of a bear or mountain lion or wolf, for a headdress. For very cold weather both men and women were provided with togas for their protection. Sometimes the men would have a bearskin or elkskin for a toga; more

on the ground. Neither men nor women wore any headdress except during festival occasions for decoration; then the women wore small basket bonnets adorned with feathers, and the men had headdresses made from the skins of ducks, geese, eagles, and other large birds. Occasionally, they would use the skin from the head of an elk or deer, or from a bear or mountain lion or wolf, for a headdress. In very cold weather, both men and women wore togas for warmth. Sometimes the men would have a bearskin or elkskin toga; more

ANOTHER TUSAYAN FIELD SHELTER.

often they made their togas by piecing together the skins of wolves, mountain lions, wolverines, wild cats, beavers, and otters. The women sometimes made theirs of fawnskins, but rabbitskin r,obes were far more common. These rabbitskins were tanned with the fur on, and cut into strips; then cords were made of the fiber of wild flax or yucca plants, and round these cords the strips of rabbitskin were rolled, so that they made long ropes of rabbitskin coils with a central cord of vegetal fiber; then these coils were woven in parallel strings with cross

often they made their togas by stitching together the skins of wolves, mountain lions, wolverines, wild cats, beavers, and otters. The women sometimes made theirs from fawnskins, but rabbitskin robes were much more common. These rabbitskins were tanned with the fur still on, and cut into strips; then cords were made from the fibers of wild flax or yucca plants, and around these cords, the strips of rabbitskin were rolled, creating long ropes of rabbitskin coils with a central cord of plant fiber; then these coils were woven into parallel strings with cross

VIEW OF HANO, ONE OF THE SEVEN PUEBLOS OF TUSAYAN.

MESA VERDE.

Mesa Verde.

MESAS AND BUTTES. 65

Mesas and Buttes. 65

strands of fiber. The robe when finished was usually about five or six feet square, and it made a good toga for a cold day and a warm blanket for the night.

strands of fiber. The finished robe was typically about five or six feet square, making it a great toga for a chilly day and a cozy blanket for the night.

The Ute Indians, like all the Indians of North America, have a wealth of mythic stories. The heroes of these stories are the beasts, birds, and reptiles of the region, and the themes of the stories are the doings of these mythic beasts--the ancients from whom the present animals have descended and degenerated. The primeval animals were wonderful beings, as related in the lore of the Utes. They were the creators and controllers of all the phenomena of nature known to these simple-minded people. The Utes are zootheists. Each little tribe has its Shaman, or medicine man, who is historian, priest, and doctor. The lore of this Shaman is composed of mythic tales of ancient animals. The Indians are very skillful actors, and they represent the parts of beasts or reptiles, wearing masks and imitating the ancient zoic gods. In temples walled with gloom of night and illumed by torch fires the people gather about their Shaman, who tells and acts the stories of creation recorded in their traditional bible. When fever prostrates one of the tribe the Shaman gathers the actors about the stricken man, and with weird dancing, wild ululation, and ecstatic exhortation the evil spirit is driven from the body. Then they have their ceremonies to pray for the forest fruits, for abundant game, for successful hunting, and for prosperity in war.

The Ute Indians, like all Native Americans, have a rich collection of mythic stories. The heroes in these tales are the animals, birds, and reptiles of the area, and the stories revolve around the actions of these mythical creatures—ancestors from whom present-day animals have evolved and weakened. According to Ute tradition, these primal animals were incredible beings. They were the creators and controllers of all natural phenomena recognized by these simple people. The Utes are zootheists. Each small tribe has its Shaman, or medicine man, who serves as a historian, priest, and healer. The Shaman's knowledge consists of mythic stories about ancient animals. The Indians are very talented performers, acting out the roles of animals or reptiles while wearing masks and mimicking the ancient animal gods. In temples shrouded in darkness and lit by torchlight, the people gather around their Shaman, who narrates and acts out the stories of creation found in their traditional bible. When someone from the tribe falls ill with a fever, the Shaman gathers the performers around the afflicted person, and through strange dances, loud chants, and passionate encouragement, the evil spirit is expelled from their body. They also hold ceremonies to pray for fruits of the forest, plentiful game, successful hunts, and prosperity in warfare.

MOUNT MORAN, TETON RANGE, WYOMING.

Mount Moran, Teton Range, Wyoming.

CHAPTER III.

CHAPTER 3.

MOUNTAINS AND PLATEAUS.

Mountains and plateaus.

GREEN RIVER has its source in Fremont's Peak, high up in the Wind River Mountains among glacial lakes and mountain cascades. This is the real source of the Colorado River, and it stands in strange contrast with the mouth of that stream where it pours into the Gulf of California. The general course of the river is from north to south and from great altitudes to the level of the sea. Thus it runs "from land of snow to land of sun." The Wind River Mountains constitute one of the most imposing ranges of the United States. Fremont's Peak, the culminating point, is 13,790 feet above the level of the sea. It stands in a wilderness of crags. Here at Fremont's Peak three great rivers have their sources: Wind River flows eastward into the Mississippi; Green River flows southward into the Colorado; and Gros Ventre River flows northwestward into the Columbia. From this dominating height many ranges can be seen on every hand. About the sources of the Platte and the Big Horn, that flow ultimately into the Gulf of Mexico, great ranges stand with their culminating peaks among the clouds; and the mountains that extend into Yellowstone Park, the land of geyser wonders, are seen. The Yellowstone Park is at the southern extremity of a great system of mountain ranges, the northern Rocky Mountains, sometimes called the Geyser Ranges. This geological province extends into British America, but its most wonderful scenery is in the upper Yellowstone basin, where geysers bombard the heavens with vapor distilled in subterranean depths. The springs which pour out their boiling waters are loaded with quartz, and the waters of the springs, flowing away over the rocks, slowly discharge their fluid magma, which crystallizes in beautiful forms and builds jeweled basins that hold pellucid waters.

GREEN RIVER starts at Fremont's Peak, up in the Wind River Mountains, surrounded by glacial lakes and mountain waterfalls. This is the true source of the Colorado River, quite a contrast to where it flows into the Gulf of California. The river generally flows from north to south, moving from high altitudes down to sea level. So it goes "from the land of snow to the land of sun." The Wind River Mountains are one of the most impressive mountain ranges in the United States. Fremont's Peak, the highest point, reaches 13,790 feet above sea level. It stands amidst a wild landscape of crags. Here at Fremont's Peak, three major rivers begin: the Wind River flows east into the Mississippi; the Green River flows south into the Colorado; and the Gros Ventre River flows northwest into the Columbia. From this towering height, you can see many ranges in every direction. Near the sources of the Platte and the Big Horn rivers, which eventually flow into the Gulf of Mexico, impressive ranges rise with their peaks touching the clouds; and the mountains extending into Yellowstone Park, known for its geysers, can also be seen. Yellowstone Park sits at the southern end of a vast system of mountain ranges, known as the northern Rocky Mountains or sometimes the Geyser Ranges. This geological area extends into British Columbia, but the most stunning scenery is in the upper Yellowstone basin, where geysers erupt with steam from deep underground. The springs that release their boiling water are rich in quartz, and as the spring water flows over the rocks, it slowly deposits its mineral content, creating beautiful crystal formations that form jeweled basins holding clear waters.

68 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

To the north and west of Fremont's Peak are mountain ranges that give birth to rivers flowing into the great Columbia. Conspicuous among these from this point of view is the great Teton Range, with its towering facade of storm-carved rocks; then the Gros Ventre Mountains, the Snake River Range, the Wyoming Range, and, still beyond the latter, the Bear River Range, are seen. Far in the distant south, scarcely to be distinguished from the blue clouds on the horizon, stand the Uinta Mountains. On every hand are deep mountain gorges where snows accumulate to form glaciers. Below the glaciers throughout the entire Wind River Range great numbers of morainal lakes are found. These lakes are gems--deep sapphire waters fringed with emerald zones. From these lakes creeks and rivers flow, by cataracts and rapids, to form the Green. The mountain slopes below are covered with dense forests of pines and firs. The lakes are often fringed with beautiful aspens, and when the autumn winds come their golden leaves are carried over the landscape in clouds of resplendent sheen. The creeks descend from the mountains in wild rocky gorges, until they flow out into the valley. On the west side of the valley stand the Gros Ventre and the Wyoming mountains, low ranges of peaks, but picturesque in form and forest stretch. Leaving the mountain, the river meanders through the Green River Plains, a cold elevated district much like that of northern Norway, except that the humidity of Norway is replaced by the aridity of Wyoming. South of the plains the Big Sandy joins the Green from the east. South of the Big Sandy a long zone of sand-dunes stretches eastward. The western winds blowing up the valley drift these sands from hill to hill, so that the hills themselves are slowly journeying eastward on the wings of arid gales, and sand tempests may be encountered more terrible than storms of snow or hail. Here the northern boundary of the Plateau Province is found, for mesas and high table-lands are found on either side of the river.

To the north and west of Fremont's Peak are mountain ranges that create rivers flowing into the Columbia River. Clearly visible from here is the impressive Teton Range, with its towering cliffs shaped by storms; then we see the Gros Ventre Mountains, the Snake River Range, the Wyoming Range, and, further beyond, the Bear River Range. Far off in the distant south, barely distinguishable from the blue clouds on the horizon, are the Uinta Mountains. Surrounding us are deep mountain gorges where snow accumulates to form glaciers. Below the glaciers throughout the entire Wind River Range, there are numerous moraine lakes. These lakes are like gems—deep sapphire waters bordered by emerald zones. From these lakes, creeks and rivers flow, through waterfalls and rapids, to form the Green River. The mountain slopes below are covered with dense pine and fir forests. The lakes are often bordered with beautiful aspens, and when the autumn winds come, their golden leaves are swept over the landscape in brilliant clouds. The creeks come down from the mountains in wild rocky gorges until they spill into the valley. On the west side of the valley are the Gros Ventre and the Wyoming mountains, low ranges of peaks that are still picturesque in shape and forest coverage. Leaving the mountains, the river winds through the Green River Plains, a cold elevated area similar to northern Norway, except the humidity of Norway is replaced by Wyoming's dryness. South of the plains, the Big Sandy flows into the Green from the east. Beyond the Big Sandy, a long stretch of sand dunes extends eastward. The western winds blowing up the valley shift these sands from hill to hill, causing the hills themselves to slowly move eastward on the wings of dry gales, and sandstorms can be more fierce than snow or hail storms. Here lies the northern boundary of the Plateau Province, with mesas and high tablelands appearing on either side of the river.

On the east side of the Green, mesas and plateaus have irregular escarpments with points extending into the valleys, and between these points canyons come down that head in the highlands. Everywhere the escarpments are fringed with outlying buttes. Many portions of the region are characterized by bad lands. These are hills carved out of sandstone, shales, and easily disintegrated rocks, which present many

On the east side of the Green, mesas and plateaus have uneven cliffs with points jutting into the valleys, and between these points canyons descend that start in the highlands. The cliffs are surrounded by outlying buttes. A lot of the area is marked by badlands. These are hills shaped from sandstone, shales, and easily crumbled rocks, which show many

MARBLE BASINS, MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS, YELLOWSTONE PARK.

TERRACED BASINS, MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS, YELLOWSTONE PABK.

TERRACED BASINS, MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS, YELLOWSTONE PARK.

MOUNTAINS AND PLATEAUS. 71

fantastic forms and are highly colored in a great variety of tint and tone, and everywhere they are naked of vegetation. Now and then low mountains crown the plateaus. Altogether it is a region of desolation. Through the midst of the country, from east to west, flows an intermittent stream known as Bitter Creek. In seasons of rain it carries floods; in seasons of drought it disappears in the sands, and its waters are alkaline and often poisonous. Stretches of bad-land desert are interrupted by other stretches of sage plain, and on the high lands gnarled and picturesque forests of juniper and piñón are found. On the west side of the river the mesas rise by grassy slopes to the westward into high plateaus that are forest-clad, first with juniper and piñon, and still higher with pines and firs. Some of the streams run in canyons and others have elevated valleys along their courses. On the south border of this mesa and plateau country are the Bridger Bad Lands, lying at the foot of the Uinta Mountains. These bad lands are of gray, green, and brown shales that are carved in picturesque forms--domes, towers, pinnacles, and minarets, and bold cliffs with deep alcoves; and all are naked rock, the sediments of an ancient lake. These lake beds are filled with fossils,--the preserved bones of fishes, reptiles, and mammals, of strange and often gigantic forms, no longer found living on the globe. It is a desert to the agriculturist, a mine to the paleontologist, and a paradise to the artist.

fantastic shapes and are vividly colored in a wide variety of shades and tones, and everywhere they lack vegetation. Occasionally, low mountains cap the plateaus. Overall, it is a desolate region. An intermittent stream known as Bitter Creek flows through the middle of the country from east to west. During rainy seasons, it carries floods; during dry seasons, it vanishes into the sands, and its waters are alkaline and often toxic. Areas of bad-land desert are scattered among stretches of sage plains, and in the highlands, twisted and striking forests of juniper and piñon are found. On the west side of the river, the mesas rise with grassy slopes westward into high plateaus that are forest-covered, first with juniper and piñon, and even higher with pines and firs. Some streams flow through canyons, while others have elevated valleys along their paths. At the southern edge of this mesa and plateau region are the Bridger Bad Lands, located at the foot of the Uinta Mountains. These badlands consist of gray, green, and brown shales that have been shaped into stunning formations—domes, towers, pinnacles, and minarets, along with steep cliffs featuring deep alcoves; all are bare rock, the remnants of an ancient lake. These lake beds are filled with fossils—the preserved bones of fish, reptiles, and mammals of strange and often giant forms that no longer exist on Earth. It is a desert for farmers, a treasure trove for paleontologists, and a paradise for artists.

The region thus described, from Fremont's Peak to the Uinta Mountains, has been the home of tribes of Indians of the Shoshonean family from time immemorial. It is a great hunting and fishing region, and the vigorous Shoshones still obtain a part of their livelihood from mesa and plain and river and lake. The flesh of the animals killed in fall and winter was dried in the arid winds for summer use; the trout abounding in the streams and lakes were caught at all seasons of the year; and the seeds and fruits of harvest time were gathered and preserved for winter use. When the seeds were gathered they were winnowed by tossing them in trays so that the winds might carry away the chaff. Then they were roasted in the same trays. Burning coals and seeds were mixed in the basket trays and kept in motion by a tossing process which fanned the coals until the seeds were done; then they were separated from the coals by dexterous manipulation. Afterwards the seeds were ground on

The area described, from Fremont's Peak to the Uinta Mountains, has been home to tribes of Shoshonean Indians since ancient times. It's a prime hunting and fishing area, and the energetic Shoshones still rely on the mesa, plains, rivers, and lakes for part of their livelihood. The meat from animals hunted in the fall and winter was dried in the dry winds for use during the summer; trout found in the streams and lakes were caught year-round; and seeds and fruits harvested in the fall were collected and stored for winter. When the seeds were collected, they were cleaned by tossing them in trays to let the wind blow away the chaff. Then they were roasted in the same trays. Burning coals and seeds were mixed in basket trays and kept moving by tossing them, which fanned the coals until the seeds were cooked; afterwards, they were separated from the coals with skilled handling. Then the seeds were ground on

72 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

mealing-stones and molded into cakes, often huge loaves, that were stored away for use in time of need. Raspberries, chokecherries, and buffalo berries are abundant, and these fruits were gathered and mixed with the bread. Such fruit cakes were great dainties among these people.

mealing-stones and shaped into cakes, often large loaves, that were stored away for use in times of need. Raspberries, chokecherries, and buffalo berries are plentiful, and these fruits were collected and mixed with the bread. Such fruit cakes were considered delicacies among these people.

In this Shoshone land the long winter night is dedicated to worship and festival. About their camp fires scattered in forest glades by brooks and lakes, they assemble to dance and sing in honor of their gods--wonderful mythic animals, for they hold as divine the ancient of bears, the eagle of the lost centuries, the rattlesnake of primeval times, and a host of other zoic deities.

In this Shoshone land, the long winter nights are spent in worship and celebration. Around their campfires, set in forest clearings by streams and lakes, they gather to dance and sing in honor of their gods—amazing mythical creatures, as they revere the ancient bear, the eagle from lost ages, the rattlesnake from ancient times, and many other animal deities.

The Uinta Range stands across the course of Green River, which finds its way through it by series of stupendous canyons. The range has an east-and-west trend. The Wasatch Mountains, a long north-and-south range, here divide the Plateau Province from what is known among geologists as the Basin Range Province, on the west. The latter is the great interior basin whose waters run into salt lakes and sinks, there being no drainage to the sea. The Great Salt Lake is the most important of these interior bodies of water.

The Uinta Range stretches across the path of the Green River, which travels through it via a series of amazing canyons. The range runs east to west. The Wasatch Mountains, a long north-south range, separate the Plateau Province from what geologists refer to as the Basin Range Province to the west. This area is a large interior basin where the waters flow into salt lakes and sinks, without any outlet to the ocean. The Great Salt Lake is the most significant of these inland bodies of water.

The Great Basin, which lies to the west of the Plateau Province, forms a part of the Basin Range Province. In past geological times it was the site of a vast system of lakes, but the climate has since changed and the water of most of these lakes has evaporated and the sediments of the old lake beds are now desert sands. The ancient lake shores are often represented by conspicuous terraces, each one marking a stage in the height of a dead lake. While these lakes existed the region was one of great volcanic activity and many eruptive mountains were formed. Some burst out beneath the waters; others were piled up on the dry land.

The Great Basin, located to the west of the Plateau Province, is part of the Basin Range Province. In the past, it was home to a vast network of lakes, but the climate has since changed, causing most of these lakes to dry up and leaving behind the sediments of old lake beds as desert sands. The ancient shorelines are often visible as distinct terraces, each marking a stage in the height of a now-dry lake. During the time these lakes existed, the area experienced significant volcanic activity, leading to the formation of many eruptive mountains. Some erupted beneath the water, while others were built up on dry land.

From the desert valleys below, the Wasatch Mountains rise abruptly and are crowned with craggy peaks. But on the east side of the mountains the descent to the plateau is comparatively slight. The Uinta Mountains are carved out of the great plateau which extends more than two hundred miles to the eastward of the summit of the Wasatch Range. Its mountain peaks are cameos, its upper valleys are meadows, its higher slopes are forest groves, and its streams run in deep, solemn, and majestic canyons. The snows never melt from its crowning heights, and an undying anthem is sung by its falling waters.

From the desert valleys below, the Wasatch Mountains rise sharply, topped with rugged peaks. On the eastern side of the mountains, the drop to the plateau is relatively gentle. The Uinta Mountains are formed from the vast plateau that stretches over two hundred miles to the east of the Wasatch Range's summit. Its mountain peaks stand out like jewels, its upper valleys are meadows, its higher slopes are filled with forests, and its streams flow through deep, solemn, and majestic canyons. The snow never melts from its highest points, and a constant song is sung by its cascading waters.

TABERNACLE CRATER AND LAVA BEDS OF THE BASIN PROVINCE.

VIEW ON GREAT SALT LAKE DESERT, SHOWING MOUNTAINS HALF BURIED BY LAKE SEDIMENTS.

MOUNTAINS AND PLATEAUS. 75

The Owiyukuts Plateau is situated at the northeastern end of the Uinta Mountains. It is a great integral block of the Uinta system. A beautiful creek heads in this plateau, near its center, and descends northward into the bad lands of Vermilion Creek, to which stream it is tributary. "Once upon a time" this creek, after descending from the plateau, turned east and then southward and found its way by a beautiful canyon into Brown's Park, where it joined the Green; but a great bend of the Vermilion, near the foot of the plateau, was gradually enlarged--the stream cutting away its banks--until it encroached upon the little valley of the creek born on the Owiyukuts Plateau. This encroachment continued until at last Vermilion Creek stole the Owiyukuts Creek and carried its waters away by its own channel. Then the canyon channel through which Owiyukuts Creek had previously run, no longer having a stream to flow through its deep gorge, gathered the waters of brooks flowing along its course into little lakelets, which are connected by a running stream only through seasons of great rainfall. These lakelets in the gorge of the dead creek are now favorite resorts of Ute Indians.

The Owiyukuts Plateau is located at the northeastern end of the Uinta Mountains. It’s a significant part of the Uinta system. A lovely creek originates in the center of this plateau and flows north into the badlands of Vermilion Creek, to which it is a tributary. Once upon a time, this creek, after flowing down from the plateau, turned east and then south, winding its way through a beautiful canyon into Brown's Park, where it joined the Green River. However, a large bend of the Vermilion Creek, near the base of the plateau, gradually expanded as the stream eroded its banks, encroaching upon the small valley of the creek that springs from the Owiyukuts Plateau. This process continued until finally, Vermilion Creek captured Owiyukuts Creek, diverting its waters into its own channel. As a result, the canyon that Owiyukuts Creek once flowed through, now without a stream, collected water from smaller brooks along its path into small lakelets, which are only connected by a stream during periods of heavy rain. These lakelets in the canyon of the dried-up creek are now popular spots for the Ute Indians.

South of the Uinta Mountains is the Uinta River, a stream with many mountain tributaries, some heading in the Uinta Mountains, others in the Wasatch Mountains on the west, and still others in the western Tavaputs Plateau.

South of the Uinta Mountains is the Uinta River, a stream with several mountain tributaries, some originating in the Uinta Mountains, others in the Wasatch Mountains to the west, and still others in the western Tavaputs Plateau.

The Uinta Valley is the ancient and present home of the Uinta Indians, a tribe speaking the Uinta language of the Shoshonean family. Their habits, customs, institutions, and mythology are essentially the same as those of the Ute Indians of the Grand River country, already described. In this valley there are also found many ruins of ancient pueblo-building peoples--of what stock is not known.

The Uinta Valley is both the historic and current home of the Uinta Indians, a tribe that speaks the Uinta language, part of the Shoshonean family. Their practices, traditions, institutions, and mythology are largely similar to those of the Ute Indians from the Grand River area, which has already been described. This valley also contains many ruins from ancient pueblo-building cultures, though their origins remain unknown.

The Tavaputs Plateau is one of the stupendous features of this country. On the west it merges into the Wasatch Mountains; on the north it descends by wooded slopes into the Uinta Valley. Its summit is forest-clad and among the forests are many beautiful parks. On the south it ends in a great escarpment which descends into Castle Valley. This southern escarpment presents one of the most wonderful facades of the world. It is from 2,000 to 4,000 feet high. The descent is not made by one bold step, for it is cut by canyons and cliffs. It is a zone several

The Tavaputs Plateau is one of the amazing features of this country. To the west, it connects with the Wasatch Mountains; to the north, it slopes down through wooded areas into the Uinta Valley. Its peak is covered in forests, and there are many beautiful meadows among the trees. To the south, it ends in a huge cliff that drops into Castle Valley. This southern cliff showcases one of the most stunning views in the world. It stands between 2,000 and 4,000 feet high. The descent isn't just a single drop, as it’s broken up by canyons and cliffs. It’s a zone several

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

miles in width which is a vast labyrinth of canyons, cliffs, buttes, pinnacles, minarets, and detached rocks of Cyclopean magnitude, the whole destitute of soil and vegetation, colored in many brilliant tones and tints, and carved in many weird forms,--a land of desolation, dedicated forever to the geologist and the artist, where civilization can find no resting-place.

miles wide, this massive maze of canyons, cliffs, buttes, pinnacles, minarets, and enormous boulders is completely barren of soil and plant life. It's filled with bright colors and strange shapes—a land of desolation, forever devoted to geologists and artists, where civilization has no place to settle.

Then comes Castle Valley, to describe which is to beggar language and pall imagination. On the north is the Tavaputs; on the west is the Wasatch Plateau, which lies to the south of the Wasatch Mountains and is here the west boundary of the Plateau Province; on the south are indescribable mesas and mountains; on the east is Grand River, a placid stream meandering through a valley of meadows. Within these boundaries there is a landscape of gigantic rock forms, interrupted here and there by bad-land hills, dominated with the towering cliffs of Tavaputs, the bold escarpment of the Wasatch Plateau, and the volcanic peaks of the Henry Mountains on the south. It is a vast forest of rock forms, and in its midst is San Rafael Swell, an elevation crowned with still more gigantic rock forms. Among the rocks pools and lakelets are found, and little streams run in canyons that seem like chasms cleft to nadir

Then comes Castle Valley, which is hard to describe and beyond imagination. To the north is the Tavaputs; to the west is the Wasatch Plateau, situated south of the Wasatch Mountains and marking the western boundary of the Plateau Province; to the south are amazing mesas and mountains; to the east is the Grand River, a calm stream winding through a valley of meadows. Within these borders lies a landscape of massive rock formations, occasionally broken by badlands, dominated by the towering cliffs of the Tavaputs, the dramatic escarpment of the Wasatch Plateau, and the volcanic peaks of the Henry Mountains to the south. It’s a vast forest of rock formations, with San Rafael Swell in its center, an elevation topped with even more colossal rock structures. Among the rocks, there are pools and small lakes, and little streams flow through canyons that appear like chasms reaching down to the depths.

AN INDIAN HUNTER. ... ....

AN INDIAN HUNTER.

RESERVOIR BUTTE, SHOWING TERRACES OF THE ANCIENT LAKE BONNEVILLE SHORELINES.

PAVANT BUTTE, OVER A SUBMARINE VOLCANO OF THE GREAT

PAVANT BUTTE, ABOVE A SUBMARINE VOLCANO OF THE GREAT

BASIN.

Basin.

MOUNTAINS AND PLATEAUS.

Mountains and plateaus.

hell. San Rafael River and Fremont River drain this Castle land, heading in the Wasatch Plateau and flowing into the Grand River. Along these streams a few narrow canyon valleys are found, and in them Ute Indians make their winter homes. The bad lands are filled with agates, jaspers, and carnelians, which are gathered by the Indians and fashioned

hell. The San Rafael River and Fremont River flow through this Castle land, originating in the Wasatch Plateau and emptying into the Grand River. Along these streams, you can find a few narrow canyon valleys where Ute Indians set up their winter homes. The badlands are rich in agates, jaspers, and carnelians, which the Indians collect and craft.

AN INDIAN CAMP.

into arrowheads and knives; along the foot of the canyon cliffs workshops can be discovered that have been occupied by generations from a time in the long past, and the chips of these workshops pave the valleys. South of the Wasatch Plateau we have the Fish Lake Plateau, the Awapa Plateau, and the Aquarius Plateau, which separate the waters flowing into the Great Basin from the waters of the Colorado, which

into arrowheads and knives; at the base of the canyon cliffs, you can find workshops that have been used by generations dating back to ancient times, and the debris from these workshops covers the valleys. South of the Wasatch Plateau, we have the Fish Lake Plateau, the Awapa Plateau, and the Aquarius Plateau, which divide the waters flowing into the Great Basin from those of the Colorado, which

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

here constitute the boundary of the Plateau Province. Awapa is a Ute name signifying "Many waters."

here constitute the boundary of the Plateau Province. Awapa is a Ute name meaning "Many waters."

All three of these plateaus are remarkable for the many lakelets found on them. To the east are the Henry Mountains, a group of volcanic domes that rise above the region. The rocks of the country

All three of these plateaus are notable for the numerous small lakes located on them. To the east are the Henry Mountains, a collection of volcanic domes that stand out above the area. The rocks in the region

INDIANS GAMBLING.

INDIANS PLAYING GAMES.

are limestones, sandstones, and shales, originally lying in horizontal altitudes; but volcanic forces were generated under them and lavas boiled up. These lavas did not, however, come to the surface, but as they rose they lifted the sandstones, shales, and limestones, to a thickness of 2,000 or 3,000 feet or more, into great domes. Then the molten lavas cooled in great lenses of mountain magnitude, with the

are limestones, sandstones, and shales, originally lying flat; but volcanic forces generated underneath them and pushed up lavas. These lavas didn't make it to the surface, but as they rose, they lifted the sandstones, shales, and limestones to a thickness of 2,000 or 3,000 feet or more, forming large domes. Then the molten lavas cooled into massive mountain-sized formations, with the

RUIN NEAR MOENKOPI.

RUINS NEAR MOENKOPI.

RUINS OF PAYUPKI, SIX MILES NORTHWEST OF MASHONGNAVI, TUSAYAN.

MOUNTAINS AND PLATEAUS. 83

sedimentary rocks domed above them. Then the clouds gathered over these domes and wept, and their tears were gathered in brooks, and the brooks carved canyons down the sides of the domes; and now in these deep clefts the structure of the mountains is revealed. The lenses of volcanic rocks by which the domes were upheaved are known as "laccolites," i. e., rock lakes.

sedimentary rocks rose above them. Then the clouds formed over these domes and poured down rain, and their tears collected in streams, which carved canyons down the sides of the domes; now in these deep gaps the structure of the mountains is exposed. The layers of volcanic rocks that caused the domes to rise are called "laccolites," i. e., rock lakes.

Looking southwestward from the Henry Mountains the Circle Cliffs are seen. A great escarpment, several thousand feet in height and 70 or 80 miles in length, faces the mountain. It is the step to the long, narrow plateau. The streams that come down across these cliffs head in great symmetric amphitheaters, and when first seen from above they present a vast alignment of walled circles. The front of the cliffs, seen from below, is everywhere imposing. On the southwest the Escalante River holds its course. It heads in the Aquarius Plateau and flows into the Colorado. Its course, as well as that of all its many tributaries, is in deep box-canyons of homogeneous red sandstone, often with vertical walls that are broken by many beautiful alcoves and glens. Much of the region is of naked, smooth, red rock, but the alcoves and glens that break the canyon walls are the sites of perennial springs, about which patches of luxuriant verdure gather.

Looking southwest from the Henry Mountains, you can see the Circle Cliffs. A massive cliff face, several thousand feet high and 70 to 80 miles long, towers over the mountain. It's the entryway to a long, narrow plateau. The streams that run down these cliffs originate in large, symmetrical amphitheaters, and when viewed from above, they create a vast alignment of walled circles. The front of the cliffs, seen from below, is impressive everywhere. To the southwest, the Escalante River flows by. It begins in the Aquarius Plateau and empties into the Colorado River. Its route, along with that of its many tributaries, winds through deep box canyons made of uniform red sandstone, often with vertical walls interrupted by beautiful alcoves and glens. Much of the area has bare, smooth red rock, but the alcoves and glens that break up the canyon walls are home to perennial springs, around which patches of lush greenery thrive.

The Kaiparowits Plateau is an elevated table-land on the southwestern side of the Escalante River. It is long and narrow, extending from the northwest to the southeast approximately parallel with the Escalante. It rises above the red sandstone of the Escalante region from 2,000 to 4,000 feet by a front of storm-carved cliffs. From the southeastern extremity of this plateau, at an altitude of 7,500 feet, an instructive view is obtained. One of the great canyons of the Colorado River can be seen meandering its way through the red-rock landscape. In the distance, and to the north, the Henry Mountains are in view, and below, the canyons of the Escalante and the red-rock land are in sight. Across the Colorado are the canyons of the San Juan, and below the mouth of the San Juan is the great Navajo Mountain. Still to the south the Grand Canyon of the Colorado is in view, and in the west a vast mesa landscape is presented with its buttes and pinnacles. Still to the southward Paria River is seen heading in a plateau on the margin of the province and having a course a little east of south into the Colorado.

The Kaiparowits Plateau is an elevated flatland on the southwestern side of the Escalante River. It’s long and narrow, stretching from the northwest to the southeast, roughly parallel to the Escalante. It rises 2,000 to 4,000 feet above the red sandstone of the Escalante region, featuring cliffs shaped by storms. From the southeastern tip of this plateau, at an altitude of 7,500 feet, you can see a stunning view. One of the major canyons of the Colorado River winds through the red-rock landscape. In the distance to the north, you can spot the Henry Mountains, and below, the canyons of the Escalante and the red-rock terrain are visible. Across the Colorado River, there are the canyons of the San Juan, and just below the mouth of the San Juan is the impressive Navajo Mountain. Further south, the Grand Canyon of the Colorado comes into view, and to the west, a vast landscape of mesas dotted with buttes and pinnacles unfolds. To the south, the Paria River can be seen flowing from a plateau at the edge of the area, heading slightly east of south into the Colorado.

84 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

The region of country which has been thus described, from the Tava-puts Plateau to the Paria River, was the home of a few scattered Ute Indians, who lived in very small groups, and who hunted on the plateau, fished in the waters, and dwelt in the canyons. There was nominally but one tribe, but as the members of this tribe were in very small parties and separated by wide distances the tribal bonds were very weak and often unrecognized. The chief integrating agency was religion, for they worshiped the same gods and periodically joined in the same religious ceremonies and festivals. A country so destitute of animal and vegetal life would not support large numbers, and the few who dwelt here gained but a precarious and scant subsistence. To a large extent they lived on seeds and roots. The low, warm canyons furnished admirable shelter for the people, and their habitual costumes were loincloths, paints, and necklaces of tiny arrowheads made of the bright-colored agates and carnelians strung on snakeskins.

The area described, from the Tava-puts Plateau to the Paria River, was home to a few scattered Ute Indians who lived in very small groups. They hunted on the plateau, fished in the waters, and resided in the canyons. There was technically only one tribe, but since its members were in small groups and spread out over large distances, the tribal connections were weak and often unrecognized. The main unifying factor was religion; they worshiped the same gods and occasionally took part in the same religious ceremonies and festivals. A region so lacking in animal and plant life couldn't support large populations, so the few who lived there struggled to make a living. They mainly survived on seeds and roots. The low, warm canyons provided excellent shelter, and their typical clothing consisted of loincloths, body paint, and necklaces made from tiny arrowheads crafted from brightly colored agates and carnelians strung on snake skins.

When the Mormon people encroached on this country from the west, and when the Navajos on the east surrendered to the United States, a few recalcitrant Navajos and the Utes of this region combined. They had long been more or less intimately associated, and a jargon speech had grown up by which they could communicate. Finally, the greater number of these Utes and renegade Navajos took up their homes permanently on the eastern bank of the Colorado River between the Grand and the San Juan rivers. The Navajos are the dominant race, yet they live on terms of practical equality and affiliate without feuds. These are the great Freebooters of the Plateau Province--the enemies of other tribes and of the white men. In their canyon fortresses they have been able to hold their ground in spite of their enemies on every hand.

When the Mormon people moved into this country from the west, and when the Navajos in the east surrendered to the United States, a few stubborn Navajos and the Utes in the area came together. They had been more or less closely connected for a long time, and a mixed language developed that allowed them to communicate. Eventually, most of these Utes and renegade Navajos settled permanently on the eastern bank of the Colorado River between the Grand and San Juan rivers. The Navajos are the largest group, but they coexist on equal terms and get along without conflicts. These are the great Freebooters of the Plateau Province—enemies of other tribes and white settlers. In their canyon fortresses, they have managed to maintain their position despite threats from all sides.

Throughout the region and the plateaus by which it is surrounded and the mountains by which it is interrupted, everywhere ruins of pueblos and many cliff dwellings are found. None of these ancient pueblos are on a large scale. The houses were usually one or two stories high and the hamlets rarely provided shelter for more than two dozen people. Some of the houses are of rather superior architecture, having well-constructed walls with good geometric proportions. Their houses were plastered on the inside, and sometimes on the outside,

Throughout the region and the surrounding plateaus, as well as the mountains that break it up, you can find ruins of pueblos and many cliff dwellings everywhere. None of these ancient pueblos are particularly large. The houses were typically one or two stories high, and the small communities rarely housed more than twenty-four people. Some of the houses have fairly impressive architecture, with well-built walls that have good geometric proportions. Their homes were plastered on the inside, and sometimes on the outside.

SHUPAULOVI.

GENERAL VIEW OF ZUÑI, LOOKING WEST.

MOUNTAINS AND PLATEAUS. 87

and covered with flat roofs of sun-dried mud. The real home of the people in their waking hours was on their housetops.

and covered with flat roofs made of sun-dried mud. The true home of the people during their waking hours was on their rooftops.

The rocks of the mountain are etched with many picture-writings attesting the artistic skill of this people. The predominant form is the rattlesnake, which is found in the crevices of the rocks on every hand. It is inferred that the people worshiped the rattlesnake as one of their chief deities, a god who carried the spirit of death in his mouth.

The mountain's rocks are covered with various carvings that showcase this people's artistic talent. The most common figure is the rattlesnake, which can be seen in the cracks of the rocks all around. It's believed that the people worshiped the rattlesnake as one of their main deities, a god who held the spirit of death in its mouth.

THE GRAY CLIFFS.

CHAPTER IV.

CHAPTER 4.

CLIFFS AND TERRACES.

Cliffs and terraces.

THERE is a great group of table-lands constituting a geographic unit which have been named the Terrace Plateaus. They ex-tend from the Paria and Colorado on the east to the Grand Wash and Pine Mountains on the west, and they are bounded on the south by the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, and on the north they divide the waters of the Colorado from the waters of the Sevier, which flows northward and then westward until it is lost in the sands of the Great Desert. It is an irregular system of great plateaus with subordinate mesas and buttes separated by lines of cliffs and dissected by canyons.

THERE is a large group of table-lands forming a geographic unit known as the Terrace Plateaus. They stretch from the Paria and Colorado rivers in the east to the Grand Wash and Pine Mountains in the west. To the south, they are bordered by the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, and to the north, they separate the waters of the Colorado from those of the Sevier, which flows north and then west until it disappears in the sands of the Great Desert. It is an irregular system of vast plateaus with smaller mesas and buttes, separated by cliffs and cut through by canyons.

In this region all of the features which have been described as found in other portions of the province are grouped except only the cliffs of volcanic ashes, the volcanic cones, and the volcanic domes. The volcanic mountains, cinder cones, and coulees, the majestic plateaus and elaborate mesas, the sculptured buttes and canyon gorges, are all found here, but on a more stupendous scale. The volcanic mountains are higher, the cinder cones are larger, the coulees are more extensive and are often sheets of naked, black rock, the plateaus are more lofty, the cliffs are on a grander scale, the canyons are of profounder depth; and the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, the most stupendous gorge known on the globe, with a great river surging through it, bounds it on the south.

In this area, all the features that have been noted in other parts of the province are grouped together, except for the cliffs made of volcanic ash, the volcanic cones, and the volcanic domes. The volcanic mountains, cinder cones, and coulees, along with the impressive plateaus and detailed mesas, the shaped buttes and deep canyons, are all present here, but on a much grander scale. The volcanic mountains are taller, the cinder cones are bigger, the coulees are wider and often consist of large, bare black rock, the plateaus are higher, the cliffs are more majestic, and the canyons are deeper; and the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, the most incredible gorge on the planet, with a powerful river flowing through it, forms the southern boundary.

The east-and-west cliffs are escarpments of degradation, the north-and-south cliffs are, in the main, though not always, escarpments of displacement. Let us understand what this means. Over the entire region limestones, shales, and sandstones were deposited through long periods of geologic time to the thickness of many thousands of feet; then the country was upheaved and tilted toward the north; but the Colorado

The east-west cliffs are eroded edges, while the north-south cliffs are mostly, but not always, faults from shifting. Let's break this down. Throughout the whole area, layers of limestone, shale, and sandstone accumulated over millions of years to a thickness of thousands of feet; then, the land was lifted and tilted toward the north; but the Colorado

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

River was flowing when the tilting commenced, and the upheaval was very slow, so that the river cleared away the obstruction to its channel as fast as it was presented, and this is the Grand Canyon. The rocks above were carried away by rains and rivers, but not evenly all over the country; nor by washing out valleys and leaving hills, but by carving the country into terraces. The upper and later-formed rocks are found far to the north, their edges standing in cliffs; then still earlier rocks are found rising to the southward, until they terminate in cliffs; and then a third series rises to the southward and ends in cliffs, and finally a fourth series, the oldest rocks, terminating in the Grand Canyon wall, which is a line of cliffs. There are in a general way four great lines of cliffs extending from east to west across the district and presenting their faces, or escarpments, southward. If these cliffs are climbed it is found that each plateau or terrace dips gently to the northward until it meets with another line of cliffs, which must be ascended to reach the summit of another plateau. Place a book before you on a table with its front edge toward you, rest another book on the back of this, place a third on the back of the second, and in like manner a fourth on the third. Now the leaves of the books dip from you and the cut edges stand in tiny escarpments facing you. So the rock-formed leaves of

The river was flowing when the tilting started, and the upheaval was very slow, allowing the river to clear away any blockage in its channel as quickly as it appeared, resulting in what we now know as the Grand Canyon. The rocks above were eroded by rain and rivers, but not evenly across the land; instead of just washing out valleys and leaving hills, they carved the land into terraces. The upper, younger rocks are found far to the north, with their edges forming cliffs; then, older rocks rise to the south until they also end in cliffs. A third set of rocks rises to the south and culminates in more cliffs, and finally, the oldest rocks terminate in the Grand Canyon wall, which consists of a line of cliffs. Generally, there are four major lines of cliffs stretching from east to west across the area, with their faces, or escarpments, oriented southward. If you climb these cliffs, you'll see that each plateau or terrace slopes gently northward until it meets another line of cliffs, which you must climb to reach the top of another plateau. Imagine placing a book in front of you on a table with its front edge facing you, then balancing another book on the back of that one, followed by a third on the second, and a fourth on the third. Now the leaves of the books tilt away from you, and the cut edges form tiny escarpments facing you. That's similar to how the rock layers are arranged.

A GROUP OF STONE CORRALS.

A group of stone pens.

RUINS.

CLIFFS AND TERRACES. 93

Cliffs and terraces. 93

these books of geology have the escarpment edges turned southward, while each book itself dips northward, and the crest of each plateau book is the summit of a line of cliffs. These cliffs of erosion have been described as running from east to west, but they diverge from that course in many ways. First, canyons run from north to south through them, and where these canyons are found deep angles occur; then sharp salients extend from the cliffs on the backs of the lower plateaus. Each great escarpment is made up more or less of minor terraces, or steps; and at the foot of each grand escarpment there is always a great talus, or sloping pile of rocks, and many marvelous buttes stand in front of the cliffs.

these geology books have the escarpment edges facing south, while each book itself tilts north, and the top of each plateau book is the peak of a line of cliffs. These eroded cliffs have been described as stretching from east to west, but they deviate from that path in several ways. First, canyons cut through them from north to south, and where these canyons are found, steep angles occur; then sharp projections extend from the cliffs on the backs of the lower plateaus. Each major escarpment is composed more or less of smaller terraces, or steps; and at the base of each grand escarpment, there is always a substantial talus, or sloping pile of rocks, and many stunning buttes stand in front of the cliffs.

But these east-and-west cliffs and the plateaus which they form are divided by north-and-south lines in another manner. The country has been faulted along north-and-south lines or planes. These faults are breaks in the strata varying from 1,000 or 2,000 to 4,000 or 5,000 feet in verticality. On the very eastern margin the rocks are dropped down several thousand feet, or, which means the same thing, the rocks are upheaved on the west side; that is, the beds that were originally horizontal have been differentially displaced, so that on the west side of the fracture the strata are several thousand feet higher than they are on the east side of the fracture. The line of displacement is known as the Echo Cliff Fault. West of this about twenty-five miles, there is another fault with its throw to the east, the upheaved rocks being on the west. This fault varies from 1,500 to 2,500 feet in throw, and extends far to the northward. It is known as the East Kaibab Fault. Still going westward, another fault is found, known as the West Kaibab Fault. Here the throw is on the west side,--that is, the rocks are dropped down to the westward from 1,000 to 2,000 feet. This fault gradually becomes less to the northward and is flexed toward the east until it joins with the East Kaibab Fault. The block between the two faults is the Kaibab Plateau. Going westward from 60 to 70 miles, still another fault is found, known as the Hurricane Ledge Fault. The throw is again on the west side of the fracture and the rocks fall down some thousands of feet. This fault extends far northward into central Utah. To the west 25 or 30 miles is found a fault with the throw still on the west. It has a drop of several thousand feet and extends across the Rio Colorado far to

But these east-and-west cliffs and the plateaus they create are separated by north-and-south lines in another way. The land has been fractured along north-and-south lines or planes. These faults are breaks in the layers that vary from 1,000 or 2,000 to 4,000 or 5,000 feet in height. At the very eastern edge, the rocks have dropped down several thousand feet, or, to put it another way, the rocks have been lifted on the west side; that is, the layers that were originally horizontal have been displaced differently, so that on the west side of the fracture, the layers are several thousand feet higher than they are on the east side of the fracture. The line of displacement is known as the Echo Cliff Fault. About twenty-five miles west of this, there is another fault with its movement toward the east, the lifted rocks being on the west. This fault varies from 1,500 to 2,500 feet in height and extends far northward. It is called the East Kaibab Fault. Continuing westward, there is another fault known as the West Kaibab Fault. Here, the movement is on the west side—that is, the rocks have dropped down to the west from 1,000 to 2,000 feet. This fault gradually decreases to the north and bends toward the east until it connects with the East Kaibab Fault. The area between the two faults is the Kaibab Plateau. Going westward for 60 to 70 miles, another fault can be found, known as the Hurricane Ledge Fault. The movement is again on the west side of the fracture, and the rocks drop several thousand feet. This fault extends far northward into central Utah. To the west, 25 or 30 miles away, there is another fault with movement still on the west side. It has a drop of several thousand feet and stretches across the Rio Colorado far to

94 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

the southwest, probably beyond the Arizona-New Mexico line. It also extends far to the north, until it is buried and lost under the Pine Valley Mountains, which are of volcanic origin.

the southwest, probably beyond the Arizona-New Mexico border. It also extends far to the north, until it is covered and lost beneath the Pine Valley Mountains, which are of volcanic origin.

Now let us see what all this means. In order clearly to understand this explanation the reader is referred to the illustration designated "Section and Bird's-Eye View of the Plateaus North of the Grand Canyon." Starting at the Grand Wash on the west, the Grand Wash Cliffs, formed by the Grand Wash Fault, are scaled; and if we are but a few miles north of the Grand Canyon we are on the Shiwits Plateau. Its western boundary is the Grand Wash Cliffs, its southern boundary is the Grand Canyon, and its northern boundary is a line of cliffs of degradation, which will be described hereafter. Going eastward across the Shiwits Plateau the Hurricane Cliffs are reached, and climbing them we are on the Uinkaret Plateau, which is bounded on the south by the Grand Canyon and on the north by the Vermilion Cliffs, that rise above its northern foot. Still going eastward 30 or 40 miles to the brink of the Kanab Canyon, the West Kanab Plateau is crossed, which is bounded by the Toroweap Fault on the west, separating it from the Uinkaret Plateau, and by the Kanab Canyon on the east, with the Grand Canyon on the south and the Vermilion Cliffs on the north. Crossing the Kanab, we are on the East Kanab Plateau, which extends about 30 miles to the foot of the West Kaibab Cliffs, or the escarpment of the West Kaibab Fault. This canyon also has the Grand Canyon on the south and the Vermilion Cliffs on the north. Climbing the West Kaibab Fault, we are on the Kaibab Plateau. Now we have been climbing from west to east, and each ascent has been made at a line of cliffs. Crossing the Kaibab Plateau to the East Kaibab Cliffs; the country falls down once more to the top of Marble Canyon Plateau. Crossing this plateau to the eastward, we at last reach the Echo Cliff Fault, where the rocks fall down on the eastern side once more; but the surface of the country itself does not fall down--the later rocks still remain, and the general level of the country is preserved except in one feature of singular interest and beauty, to describe which a little further explanation is necessary.

Now let’s figure out what this all means. To fully understand this explanation, the reader should look at the illustration titled "Section and Bird's-Eye View of the Plateaus North of the Grand Canyon." Starting at the Grand Wash in the west, the Grand Wash Cliffs, created by the Grand Wash Fault, are climbed; and if we are just a few miles north of the Grand Canyon, we find ourselves on the Shiwits Plateau. Its western edge is marked by the Grand Wash Cliffs, its southern edge is the Grand Canyon, and its northern edge is a line of cliffs formed by erosion, which will be explained later. Heading east across the Shiwits Plateau, we reach the Hurricane Cliffs, and after climbing them, we arrive at the Uinkaret Plateau, which is bordered on the south by the Grand Canyon and on the north by the towering Vermilion Cliffs. Continuing east for 30 or 40 miles to the edge of the Kanab Canyon, we cross the West Kanab Plateau, which is bounded on the west by the Toroweap Fault, separating it from the Uinkaret Plateau, and on the east by the Kanab Canyon, with the Grand Canyon to the south and the Vermilion Cliffs to the north. After crossing the Kanab, we arrive at the East Kanab Plateau, which extends about 30 miles to the base of the West Kaibab Cliffs, also known as the escarpment of the West Kaibab Fault. This canyon also has the Grand Canyon to the south and the Vermilion Cliffs to the north. Climbing up the West Kaibab Fault, we reach the Kaibab Plateau. We’ve been climbing from west to east, and each ascent has occurred at a line of cliffs. As we cross the Kaibab Plateau toward the East Kaibab Cliffs, the land drops again to the top of Marble Canyon Plateau. Moving east across this plateau, we finally arrive at the Echo Cliff Fault, where the rocks drop again on the eastern side; however, the land itself doesn’t descend—the later rocks are still in place, and the overall level of the land is maintained, except for one special feature that is both interesting and beautiful, which requires a bit more explanation.

I have spoken of these north-and-south faults as if they were fractures; and usually they are fractures, but in some places they are flex-

I’ve talked about these north-and-south faults as if they were breaks; usually, they are breaks, but in some areas, they are flex-

LAGOON ON THE KAIBAB.

KAIBAB LAGOON.

PINK CLIFFS, PAUNSAGUNT PLATEAU.

Pink Cliffs, Paunsagunt Plateau.

CLIFFS AND TEEEACES. 97

CLIFFS AND TEACHS. 97

ures. The Echo Cliffs displacement is a flexure. Just over the zone of flexure a long ridge extends from north to south, known as the Echo Cliffs. It is composed of a comparatively hard and homogeneous sandstone of a later age than the limestones of the Marble Canyon Plateau west of it; but the flexure dips down so as to carry this sandstone which forms the face of the cliff (presented westward) far under the surface, so that on the east side rocks of still later age are found, the drop being several thousand feet. The inclined red sandstone stands in a ridge more than 75 miles in length, with an escarped face presented to the west and a face of inclined rock to the east. The western side is carved into beautiful alcoves and is buttressed with a magnificent talus, and the red sandstone stands in fractured columns of giant size and marvelous beauty. On the east side the declining beds are carved into pockets, which often hold water. This is the region of the Thousand Wells. The foot of the cliffs on the east side is several hundred feet above the foot of the cliffs on the west side. On the west there is a vast limestone stretch, the top of the Marble Canyon Plateau; on the east there are drifting sand-dunes.

The Echo Cliffs displacement is a flexure. Just above the flexure, a long ridge runs from north to south, known as the Echo Cliffs. It consists of a relatively hard and uniform sandstone, which is younger than the limestones of the Marble Canyon Plateau to the west. However, the flexure dips down, causing this sandstone, which forms the cliff face (facing west), to extend far beneath the surface, so that on the east side, rocks of even younger age can be found, with a drop of several thousand feet. The sloped red sandstone forms a ridge that is over 75 miles long, with a steep face facing west and an inclined rock face to the east. The western side features beautifully carved alcoves and is supported by magnificent talus, with fractured columns of giant-sized, stunning red sandstone. On the east side, the descending layers are carved into pockets that often hold water. This area is known as the Thousand Wells. The base of the cliffs on the east side is several hundred feet higher than the base on the west side. To the west lies a vast stretch of limestone, the top of the Marble Canyon Plateau; to the east are shifting sand dunes.

The terraced land described has three sets of terraces: one set on the east, great steps to the Kaibab Plateau; another set on the west, from the Great Basin region to the Kaibab Plateau; and a third set from the Grand Canyon northward. There are thus three sets of cliffs: cliffs facing the east, cliffs facing the west, and cliffs facing the south. The north-and-south cliffs are made by faults; the east-and-west cliffs are made by differential degradation.

The terraced land described has three sets of terraces: one set on the east, large steps leading to the Kaibab Plateau; another set on the west, stretching from the Great Basin region to the Kaibab Plateau; and a third set extending from the Grand Canyon northward. So, there are three sets of cliffs: cliffs facing east, cliffs facing west, and cliffs facing south. The north-and-south cliffs are formed by faults; the east-and-west cliffs are created by different rates of erosion.

The stupendous cliffs by which the plateaus are bounded are of indescribable grandeur and beauty. The cliffs bounding the Kaibab Plateau descend on either side, and this is the culminating portion of the region. All the other plateaus are terraces, with cliffs ascending on the one side and descending on the other. Some of the tables carry dead volcanoes on their backs that are towering mountains, and all of them are dissected by canyons that are gorges of profound depth. But every one of these plateaus has characteristics peculiar to itself and is worthy of its own chapter. On the north there is a pair of plateaus, twins in age, but very distinct in development, the Paunsagunt and Markagunt. They are separated by the Sevier River, which flows northward. Their

The stunning cliffs that frame the plateaus are breathtaking and beautiful. The cliffs surrounding the Kaibab Plateau drop down on either side, marking the highlight of the area. All the other plateaus are terraces, with cliffs rising on one side and falling on the other. Some of the tables support dead volcanoes that stand as towering mountains, and all of them are carved by canyons that are extremely deep gorges. However, each of these plateaus has unique features of its own and deserves its own chapter. To the north, there are two plateaus, twins in age but very different in how they developed: the Paunsagunt and Markagunt. They are divided by the Sevier River, which flows northward. Their

98 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

southern margins constitute the highest steps of the great system of terraces of erosion. This escarpment is known as the Pink Cliffs. Above, pine forests are found; below the cliffs are hills and sand-dunes. The cliffs themselves are bold and often vertical walls of a delicate pink color.

southern margins are the highest levels of the vast system of erosion terraces. This cliff is called the Pink Cliffs. Above, there are pine forests; below the cliffs, you’ll find hills and sand dunes. The cliffs themselves are striking and often steep, featuring a soft pink hue.

In one of the earlier years of exploration I stood on the summit of the Pink Cliffs of the Paunsagunt Plateau, 9,000 feet above the level of the sea. Below me, to the southwest, I could look off into the canyons of the Virgen River, down into the canyon of the Kanab, and far away into the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. From the lowlands of the Great Basin and from the depths of the Grand Canyon clouds crept up over the cliffs and floated over the landscape below me, concealing the canyons and mantling the mountains and mesas and buttes; still on toward me the clouds rolled, burying the landscape in their progress, until at last the region below was covered by a mantle of storm--a tumultuous sea of rolling clouds, black and angry in parts, white as the foam of cataracts here and there, and everywhere flecked with resplendent sheen. Below me spread a vast ocean of vapor, for I was above the clouds. On descending to the plateau, I found that a great storm had swept the land, and the dry arroyos of the day before were the channels of a thousand streams of tawny water, born of the ocean of vapor which had invaded the land before my vision.

In one of the earlier years of exploration, I stood on top of the Pink Cliffs of the Paunsagunt Plateau, 9,000 feet above sea level. Below me, to the southwest, I could see into the canyons of the Virgen River, down into the canyon of the Kanab, and far into the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. From the lowlands of the Great Basin and the depths of the Grand Canyon, clouds crept up over the cliffs and floated over the landscape below me, hiding the canyons and covering the mountains, mesas, and buttes; still, the clouds rolled toward me, engulfing the landscape as they moved, until finally, the area below was shrouded in a storm—an overwhelming sea of rolling clouds, dark and violent in some parts, white like the foam of waterfalls in others, and everywhere glowing with brilliant light. Below me spread a vast ocean of vapor, as I was above the clouds. When I descended to the plateau, I discovered that a powerful storm had swept through the area, and the dry arroyos from the day before were now channels for a thousand streams of muddy water, formed from the ocean of vapor that had overtaken the land before my eyes.

Below the Pink Cliffs another irregular zone of plateaus is found, stretching out to the margin of the Gray Cliffs. The Gray Cliffs are composed of a homogeneous sandstone which in some places weathers gray, but in others is as white as virgin snow. On the top of these cliffs hills and sand-dunes are found, but everywhere on the Gray Cliff margin the rocks are carved in fantastic forms; not in buttes and towers and pinnacles, but in great rounded bosses of rock.

Below the Pink Cliffs, there's another uneven area of plateaus that extends to the edge of the Gray Cliffs. The Gray Cliffs are made up of a uniform sandstone that weathers to gray in some spots, but in others, it's as white as fresh snow. On top of these cliffs, you'll find hills and sand dunes, but along the edge of the Gray Cliffs, the rocks are shaped into unique forms; not as buttes, towers, or pinnacles, but as large, rounded masses of rock.

The Virgen River heads back in the Pink Cliffs of the Markagunt Plateau and with its tributaries crosses one of these plateaus above the Gray Cliffs, carving a labyrinth of deep gorges. This is known as the Colob Plateau. Above, there is a vast landscape of naked, white and gray sandstone, billowing in fantastic bosses. On the margins of the canyons these are rounded off into great vertical walls, and at the bottom of every winding canyon a beautiful stream of water is found

The Virgen River flows back into the Pink Cliffs of the Markagunt Plateau and, along with its tributaries, crosses one of these plateaus above the Gray Cliffs, creating a maze of deep gorges. This area is called the Colob Plateau. Above, there’s a wide landscape of bare, white and gray sandstone, shaping into incredible formations. At the edges of the canyons, these cliffs rise into tall vertical walls, and at the bottom of each twisting canyon, there’s a beautiful stream of water.

A PERMIAN BUTTE.

A Permian Butte.

100

VERMILION CLIFFS AT KANAB.

Vermilion Cliffs in Kanab.

CLIFFS AND TERRACES. 101

running over quicksands. Sometimes the streams in their curving have cut under the rocks, and overhanging cliffs of towering altitudes are seen; and somber chambers are found between buttresses that uphold the walls. Among the Indians this is known as the "Rock Rovers' Land," and is peopled by mythic beings of uncanny traits.

running over quicksand. Sometimes the streams, in their curves, have eroded under the rocks, and towering cliffs rise above; shadowy chambers are found between the buttresses that support the walls. Among the Indigenous people, this area is called the "Land of the Rock Rovers," inhabited by mythical beings with strange characteristics.

Below the Gray Cliffs another zone of plateaus is found, separated by the north-and-south faults and divided from the Colob series by the Gray Cliffs and demarcated from the plateaus to the south by the Vermilion Cliffs. The Vermilion Cliffs that face the south are of surpassing beauty. The rocks are of orange and red above and of chocolate, lavender, gray, and brown tints below. The canyons that cut through the cliffs from north to south are of great diversity and all are of profound interest. In these canyon walls many caves are found, and often the caves contain lakelets and pools of clear water. Canyons and re-entrant angles abound. The faces of the cliffs are terraced and salients project onto the floors below. The outlying buttes are many. Standing away to the south and facing these cliffs when the sun is going down beyond the desert of the Great Basin, shadows are seen to creep into the deep recesses, while the projecting forms are illumined, so that the lights and shadows are in great and sharp contrast; then a million lights seem to glow from a background of black gloom, and a great bank of Tartarean fire stretches across the landscape.

Below the Gray Cliffs, there's another area of plateaus, separated by north-south faults and distinct from the Colob series by the Gray Cliffs, and separated from the plateaus to the south by the Vermilion Cliffs. The Vermilion Cliffs facing south are exceptionally beautiful. The rocks are orange and red on top, fading into chocolate, lavender, gray, and brown tones below. The canyons slicing through the cliffs from north to south are incredibly diverse and all hold deep interest. Many caves can be found in these canyon walls, often containing small lakes and clear water pools. Canyons and re-entrant angles are everywhere. The cliff faces are terraced, with projections jutting out over the floors below. There are many outlying buttes. Standing to the south and looking at these cliffs as the sun sets behind the Great Basin desert, shadows begin to creep into the deep recesses, while the protruding shapes are illuminated, creating a stark contrast between light and shadow; then it looks like a million lights glow against a backdrop of dark gloom, with a massive bank of fiery colors stretching across the landscape.

At the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs there is everywhere a zone of vigorous junipers and piñons, for the belt of country is favored with comparatively abundant rain. When the clouds drift over the plateaus below from the south and west and strike the Vermilion Cliffs, they are abruptly lifted 2,000 feet, and to make the climb they must unload their burdens; so that here copious rains are discharged, and by such storms the cliffs are carved and ever from age to age carried back farther to the north. In the Pink Cliffs above and the Gray Cliffs and the Vermilion Cliffs, there are many notches that mark channels running northward which had their sources on these plateaus when they extended farther to the south. The Rio Virgen is the only stream heading in the Pink Cliffs and running into the Colorado which is perennial. The other rivers and creeks carry streams of water in rainy seasons only. When a succession of dry years occurs the canyons coming through the

At the base of the Vermilion Cliffs, there's a thriving area filled with junipers and piñon pines, thanks to the relatively abundant rainfall in the region. When clouds drift in from the south and west over the plateaus and hit the Vermilion Cliffs, they're suddenly forced up 2,000 feet. To make that climb, they have to release their moisture, resulting in heavy rain in this area. These storms shape the cliffs, slowly eroding them and pushing them further north over time. In the Pink Cliffs, along with the Gray and Vermilion Cliffs, there are several notches that indicate channels that used to flow north, originating from these plateaus when they extended further south. The Rio Virgen is the only perennial stream that starts in the Pink Cliffs and flows into the Colorado. The other rivers and creeks only have water during the rainy seasons. When a series of dry years happens, the canyons coming through the

102 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

cliffs are choked below, as vast bodies of sand are deposited. But now and then, ten or twenty years apart, great storms or successions of storms come, and the channels are flooded and cut their way again through the drifting sands to solid rock below. Thus the streams below are alternately choked and cleared from period to period.

cliffs are blocked below, as massive amounts of sand settle. But every ten or twenty years, powerful storms or a series of storms hit, flooding the channels and carving their way through the shifting sands to the solid rock beneath. As a result, the streams below are periodically obstructed and then cleared.

To the south of the Vermilion Cliffs the last series or zone of plateaus north of the Grand Canyon is found. The summits of these plateaus are of cherty limestone. In the far west we have the Shiwits Plateau covered with sheets of lava and volcanic cones; then climbing the Hurricane Ledge we have the Kanab Plateau, on the southwest portion of which the Uinkaret Mountains stand--a group of dead volcanoes with many black cinder cones scattered about. It is interesting to know how these mountains are formed. The first eruptions of lava were long ago, and they were poured out upon a surface 2,000 feet or more higher than the general surface now found. After the first eruptions of coulees the lands round about were degraded by rains and rivers. Then new eruptions occurred and additional sheets of lava were poured out; but these came not through the first channels, but through later ones formed about the flanks of the elder beds of lava, so that the new sheets are imbricated or shingled over the old sheets. But the overlap is from below upward. Then the land was further degraded, and a third set of coulees was spread still lower down on the flanks, and on these last coulees the black cinder cones stand. So the foundations of the Uinkaret Mountains are of limestones, and these foundations are covered with sheets of lava overlapping from below upward, and the last coulees are decked with cones.

To the south of the Vermilion Cliffs lies the last series of plateaus just north of the Grand Canyon. The tops of these plateaus are made of cherty limestone. In the far west, we find the Shiwits Plateau, which is covered with layers of lava and volcanic cones. As we move up the Hurricane Ledge, we reach the Kanab Plateau, where the Uinkaret Mountains rise in the southwest—these mountains are a group of extinct volcanoes with numerous black cinder cones scattered around. It’s fascinating to understand how these mountains were formed. The first lava eruptions happened a long time ago, and the lava spread over a surface that was about 2,000 feet higher than the landscape we see today. After the initial eruptions created coulees, the surrounding land was worn down by rain and rivers. Then, new eruptions happened, pouring out additional sheets of lava, but this time they came through different channels that formed around the older lava beds, so the new sheets are layered over the old ones. But the layering goes from below upward. After further erosion, a third set of coulees was formed even lower on the slopes, and the black cinder cones sit atop these last coulees. Thus, the Uinkaret Mountains have limestone foundations that are covered by lava sheets overlapping from below upward, with the latest coulees topped by cones.

Still farther east is the Kaibab Plateau, the culminating table-land of the region. It is covered with a beautiful forest, and in the forest charming parks are found. Its southern extremity is a portion of the wall of the Grand Canyon; its western margin is the wall of the West Kaibab Fault; its eastern edge is the wall of the East Kaibab Fault; and its northern point is found where the two faults join. Here antelope feed and many a deer goes bounding over the fallen timber. In winter deep snows lie here, but the plateau has four months of the sweetest summer man has ever known.

Still further east is the Kaibab Plateau, the highest tableland in the area. It's covered with a beautiful forest, and within that forest, there are lovely parks. The southern edge is part of the Grand Canyon's rim; the western border is the West Kaibab Fault; the eastern side is the East Kaibab Fault; and the northern tip is where the two faults meet. Here, antelope graze and many deer leap over the fallen timber. In winter, deep snow blankets the land, but the plateau enjoys four months of the sweetest summer anyone has ever experienced.

On the terraced plateaus three tribes of Indians are found: the Shiwits ("people of the springs"), the Uinkarets ("people of the pine

On the terraced plateaus, three tribes of Indigenous people are found: the Shiwits ("people of the springs"), the Uinkarets ("people of the pine

103

A MIDSUMMERDAY'S DREAM ON THE COLOB.

A MIDSUMMER DAY'S DREAM ON THE COLOB.

104

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

mountains"), and the Unkakaniguts ("people of the red lands," who dwell along the Vermilion Cliffs). They are all Utes and belong to a confederacy with other tribes living farther to the north, in Utah. These people live in shelters made of boughs piled up in circles and covered with juniper bark supported by poles. These little houses are only large enough for half a dozen persons huddling together in sleep. Their aboriginal clothing was very scant, the most important being

mountains"), and the Unkakaniguts ("people of the red lands," who live along the Vermilion Cliffs). They are all Utes and are part of a confederacy with other tribes living further north, in Utah. These people reside in shelters made from branches arranged in circles and covered with juniper bark supported by poles. These small houses are only big enough for about six people to sleep closely together. Their original clothing was quite minimal, the most important being

AN INDIAN VILLAGE.

An Indian village.

wildcatskin and wolfskin robes for the men, and rabbitskin robes for the women, though for occasions of festival they had clothing of tanned deer and antelope skins, often decorated with fantastic ornaments of snake skins, feathers, and the tails of squirrels and chipmunks. A great variety of seeds and roots furnish their food, and on the higher plateaus there is much game, especially deer and antelope. But the whole country abounds with rabbits, which are often killed with arrows and

wildcat and wolf fur robes for the men, and rabbit fur robes for the women, though for festivals they wore clothing made of tanned deer and antelope hides, often embellished with colorful decorations made from snake skins, feathers, and the tails of squirrels and chipmunks. They have a wide variety of seeds and roots for food, and on the higher plateaus, there is plenty of game, especially deer and antelope. But the whole area is filled with rabbits, which are often hunted with arrows and

CLIFFS AND TERRACES.

Cliffs and terraces.

105

caught in snares. Every year they have great hunts, when scores of rabbits are killed in a single day. It is managed in this way: They make nets of the fiber of the wild flax and of some other plant, the meshes of which are about an inch across. These nets are about three and a half feet in width and hundreds of yards in length. They arrange

caught in snares. Every year they have large hunts, during which many rabbits are killed in a single day. Here's how it's done: They create nets from the fibers of wild flax and another plant, with openings that are about an inch wide. These nets are around three and a half feet wide and hundreds of yards long. They arrange

ANTINAINTS, PUTUSIV, AND WICHUTS, IN FESTAL DRESS.

ANTINAINTS, PUTUSIV, AND WICHUTS, IN CELEBRATORY ATTIRE.

such a net in a circle, not quite closed, supporting it by stakes and pinning the bottom firmly to the ground. From the opening of the circle they extend net wings, expanding in a broad angle several hundred yards from either side. Then the entire tribe will beat up a great district of country and drive the rabbits toward the nets, and finally into

such a net in a circle, not quite closed, supporting it by stakes and pinning the bottom firmly to the ground. From the opening of the circle they extend net wings, expanding in a broad angle several hundred yards from either side. Then the entire tribe will beat up a great area of land and drive the rabbits toward the nets, and finally into

106

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

the circular snare, which is quickly closed, when the rabbits are killed with arrows.

the circular snare, which closes quickly when the rabbits are killed with arrows.

A great variety of desert plants furnish them food, as seeds, roots, and

A wide range of desert plants provide them with food, such as seeds, roots, and

PERSPECTIVE VIEW OF TYPICAL SOLITARY HOUSE.

PERSPECTIVE VIEW OF A TYPICAL STANDALONE HOUSE.

stalks. More than fifty varieties of such seed-bearing plants have been collected. The seeds themselves are roasted, ground, and preserved in cakes. The most abundant food of this nature is derived from the sunflower and the nuts of the piñón. They still make stone arrowheads, stone knives, and stone hammers, and kindle fire with the drill. Their medicine men are famous sorcerers. Coughs are caused by invisible winged insects, rheumatism by flesh-eating bugs too small to be seen, and the toothache by invisible worms. Their healing art consists in searing and scarifying. Their medicine men take the medicine themselves to produce a state of ecstasy, in which the disease pests are discovered. They also practice dancing about their patients to drive away the evil beings or to avert the effects of sorcery. When a child is bitten by a rattlesnake the snake is caught and brought near to the suffering urchin, and ceremonies are performed, all for the purpose of prevailing upon the snake to take back the evil spirit. They have quite a variety of mythic personages. The chief of these are the

stalks. More than fifty types of seed-bearing plants have been gathered. The seeds are roasted, ground, and made into cakes. The most common food from this comes from sunflowers and piñón nuts. They still make stone arrowheads, stone knives, and stone hammers, and start fires using a drill. Their healers are renowned sorcerers. Coughs are believed to be caused by invisible winged insects, rheumatism by tiny flesh-eating bugs that can't be seen, and toothaches by invisible worms. Their healing practices involve burning and scratching the skin. Their medicine men take the medicine themselves to enter a state of ecstasy, in which they identify the causes of illnesses. They also perform dances around their patients to drive away evil spirits or reduce the effects of sorcery. When a child is bitten by a rattlesnake, they capture the snake and bring it close to the suffering child, performing ceremonies to persuade the snake to take back the evil spirit. They have a wide range of mythical figures, with the chief among them being the

CLIFFS AND TEBEACES.

CLIFFS AND TEEBEACES.

107

Enupits, who are pigmies dwelling about the springs, and the Rock Rovers, who live in the cliffs. Their gods are zoic, and the chief among them are the wolf, the rabbit, the eagle, the jay, the rattlesnake, and the spider. They have no knowledge of the ambient air, but the winds are the breath of beasts living in the four quarters of the earth. Whirlwinds that often blow among the sand-dunes are caused by the dancing of Enupits. The sky is ice, and the rain is caused by the Rainbow God; he abraids the ice of the sky with his scales and the snow falls, and if the weather be warm the ice melts and it is rain. The sun is a poor slave compelled to make the same journey every day since he was conquered by the rabbit. These tribes have a great body of romance, in which the actors are animals, and the knowledge of these stories is the lore of their sages.

Enupits, who are pygmies living near the springs, and the Rock Rovers, who inhabit the cliffs. Their gods are animal-based, the main ones being the wolf, the rabbit, the eagle, the jay, the rattlesnake, and the spider. They don’t understand the surrounding air, but they believe that the winds are the breath of creatures living in all directions of the earth. The whirlwinds that often sweep through the sand dunes are caused by the dancing of the Enupits. The sky is like ice, and the rain is created by the Rainbow God; he scratches the ice of the sky with his scales and snow falls, and if the weather is warm, the ice melts and turns into rain. The sun is a miserable slave forced to make the same journey every day since being defeated by the rabbit. These tribes have a rich tradition of stories, where the main characters are animals, and knowing these tales is part of their elders' wisdom.

Scattered over the plateaus are the ruins of many ancient stone pueblos, not unlike those previously described.

Scattered across the plateaus are the remains of many ancient stone pueblos, similar to those mentioned before.

The Kanab River heading in the Pink Cliffs runs directly southward

The Kanab River heading in the Pink Cliffs flows straight south.

PERSPECTIVE VIEW OP ROUND-HOUSE STRUCTURE OF LAVA.

PERSPECTIVE VIEW OF THE ROUND HOUSE STRUCTURE MADE OF LAVA.

and joins the Colorado in the heart of the Grand Canyon. Its way is through a series of canyons. From one of these it emerges at the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs, and here stood an extensive ruin not many years ago. Some portions of the pueblo were three stories

and joins the Colorado in the center of the Grand Canyon. It travels through a series of canyons. From one of these canyons, it appears at the base of the Vermilion Cliffs, where a large ruin stood not too long ago. Some parts of the pueblo were three stories high.

108

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

high. The structure was one of the best found in this land of ruins. The Mormon people settling here have used the stones of the old pueblo in building their homes, and now no vestiges of the ancient structure remain. A few miles below the town other ruins were found. They were scattered to Pipe's Springs, a point twenty miles to the westward. Ruins were also discovered up the stream as far as the Pink Cliffs, and eastward along the Vermilion Cliffs nearly to the Colorado River, and out on the margin of the Kanab Plateau. These were all ruins of outlying habitations be-longing to the Kanab pueblo. From the study of the existing pueblos found elsewhere and from extensive study of the ruins, it seems that everywhere tribal pueblos were built of considerable dimensions, usually to give shelter to several hundred people. Then the people cultivated the soil by irrigation, and had

high. The structure was one of the best found in this land of ruins. The Mormon people settling here have used the stones of the old pueblo to build their homes, and now no traces of the ancient structure remain. A few miles below the town, other ruins were found. They were scattered to Pipe's Springs, a point twenty miles to the west. Ruins were also discovered upstream as far as the Pink Cliffs and eastward along the Vermilion Cliffs nearly to the Colorado River, and out on the edge of the Kanab Plateau. These were all ruins of outlying homes belonging to the Kanab pueblo. From studying the existing pueblos found elsewhere and extensive research on the ruins, it seems that tribal pueblos were built quite large, typically to shelter several hundred people. Then the people cultivated the land through irrigation, and had

AN ANCIENT CLIFF HOUSE.

A historic cliff house.

109

A ZUÑI EAGLE CAGE.

A Zuni eagle cage.

110

A VIEW OF ZUÑI.

A view of Zuni.

111

CLIFFS AND TERRACES.

Cliffs and terraces.

their gardens and little fields scattered at wide distances about the central pueblo, by little springs and streams and wherever they could control the water with little labor to bring it on the land. At such points stone houses were erected sufficient to accommodate from one to two thousand people, and these were occupied during the season of cultivation and are known as rancherías. So one great tribe had its central pueblo and its outlying rancherías. Sometimes the rancherías were occupied from year to year, especially in time of peace, but usually they were occupied only during seasons of cultivation. Such groups of ruins and pueblos with accessory rancherías are still inhabited, and have been described as found throughout the Plateau Province except far to the north beyond the Uinta Mountains. A great pueblo once existed in the Uinta Valley on the south side of the mountains. This is the most northern pueblo which has yet been discovered. But the pueblo-building tribes extended beyond the area drained by the Colorado. On the west there was a pueblo in the Great Basin at the site now occupied by Salt Lake City, and several more to the southward, all on waters flowing into the desert. On the east such pueblos were found among mountains at the headwaters of the Arkansas, Platte, and Canadian rivers. The entire area drained by the Rio Grande del Norte was occupied by pueblo tribes, and a number are still inhabited. To the south they extended far beyond the territory of the United States, and the so-called Aztec cities were rather superior pueblos of this character. The known pueblo tribes of the United States belong to several different linguistic stocks. They are far from being one homogeneous people, for they have not only different languages but different religions and worship different gods. These pueblo peoples are in a higher grade of culture than most Indian tribes of the United States. This is exhibited in the slight superiority of their arts, especially in their architecture. It is also noticeable in their mythology and religion. Their gods, the heroes of their myths, are more often personifications of the powers and phenomena of nature, and their religious ceremonies are more elaborate, and their cult societies are highly organized. As they had begun to domesticate animals and to cultivate the soil, so as to obtain a part of their subsistence by agriculture, they had almost accomplished the ascent from savagery

their gardens and small fields spread out at wide distances around the central village, near little springs and streams, and wherever they could manage the water with minimal effort to irrigate the land. At these spots, stone houses were built to accommodate one to two thousand people, and these were inhabited during the farming season and are known as rancherías. So, one large tribe had its central village and its surrounding rancherías. Sometimes the rancherías were used year after year, especially during peaceful times, but usually they were only occupied during growing seasons. These clusters of ruins and villages with their associated rancherías are still inhabited and have been found throughout the Plateau Province, except far to the north beyond the Uinta Mountains. A large village once existed in the Uinta Valley on the south side of the mountains. This is the most northern village that has been discovered so far. However, the pueblo-building tribes extended beyond the area drained by the Colorado River. To the west, there was a village in the Great Basin at the site now known as Salt Lake City, with several more to the south, all located along rivers that flow into the desert. To the east, such villages were found in the mountains at the headwaters of the Arkansas, Platte, and Canadian rivers. The entire area drained by the Rio Grande del Norte was occupied by pueblo tribes, many of which are still inhabited today. To the south, they extended well beyond the territory of the United States, and the so-called Aztec cities were actually superior pueblos of this type. The known pueblo tribes in the United States belong to several different language families. They are far from being a single homogeneous group; they have not only different languages but also different religions and worship different gods. These pueblo peoples have a higher level of culture than most Native American tribes in the United States. This is seen in the somewhat greater quality of their crafts, especially in their architecture. It's also evident in their mythology and religion. Their gods, the heroes of their stories, are often personifications of natural forces and phenomena, and their religious ceremonies are more elaborate, with their cult societies being well organized. As they began to domesticate animals and cultivate the land for part of their food supply through agriculture, they were on the brink of moving beyond a savage lifestyle.

112

WALPI DANCE ROCK.

CLIFFS AND TERRACES. 113

Cliffs and Terraces. 113

to barbarism when first discovered by the invading European. All the Indians of North America were in this state of transition, but the pueblo tribes had more nearly reached the higher goal.

to barbarism when first discovered by the invading Europeans. All the Native Americans of North America were in this state of transition, but the pueblo tribes had more closely reached the higher goal.

The great number of ruins found throughout the land has often been interpreted as evidence of a much larger pueblo population than has been found in post-Columbian time. But a careful study of the facts does not warrant this conclusion. It would seem that for various reasons tribes abandoned old pueblos and built new, thus changing their permanent residence from time to time; but more frequent changes were made in their rancherias. These were but ephemeral, being moved from place to place by the varying conditions of water supply. Most of the streams of the arid land are not perennial, but very many of the smaller streams of the pueblo region discharge their waters into the larger streams in times of great flood. Such floods occur now here, now there, and at varying periods, sometimes fifty years apart. When dry years follow one another for a long series, the channels of these intermittent streams are choked with sand until the streams are buried and lost. Under such circumstances the rancherias were moved from dead stream to living stream. In rare instances pueblos themselves were removed for this cause. Other pueblos, and the rancherias generally, were abandoned in time of war; this seems to have been a potent cause for moving. When pestilence attacked a pueblo the people would sometimes leave in a body and never return. The cliff pueblos and dwellings, the cavate dwellings, and the cinder-cone towns were all built and occupied for defensive purposes when powerful enemies threatened. The history of some of the old ruins has been obtained and we know the existing tribes who once occupied them; others still remain enshrouded in obscurity.

The large number of ruins found across the land has often been seen as proof of a much bigger pueblo population than what we’ve found since European contact. However, a close look at the evidence doesn’t support this idea. It appears that for various reasons, tribes left old pueblos and built new ones, shifting their permanent homes from time to time; however, they changed their temporary settlements, or rancherias, even more frequently. These were short-lived and moved around based on changing water supply conditions. Most of the streams in this dry area aren’t permanent, but many smaller streams in the pueblo region flow into larger streams during heavy floods. These floods happen randomly and at different intervals, sometimes fifty years apart. When dry years follow one after another for extended periods, the channels of these temporary streams can fill with sand until they’re buried and lost. In such cases, the rancherias were relocated from dry streams to those with water. In rare situations, pueblos themselves were moved for this reason. Other pueblos, along with the rancherias, were abandoned during wartime; this seems to have been a significant reason for relocation. When disease struck a pueblo, the people would sometimes leave all at once and never return. The cliff pueblos, the cave dwellings, and the cinder-cone towns were all built and occupied for protection when strong enemies were a threat. We have some history of these old ruins and know which tribes occupied them; others still remain shrouded in mystery.

114

A PASSAGEWAY IN WALPI.

A corridor in Walpi.

115

THE HURRICANE FAULT.

TOWERS OF THE VERMILION CLIFFS.

Towers of the Vermilion Cliffs.

116

TEMPLES AND TOWERS OF THE RIO VIRGEN.

117

PANORAMA. UPPER VIEW LOOKING EAST, WITH THE GRAND CANYON IN THE DISTANCE. LOWER VIEW LOOKING DOWN THE TOROWEAP.

118

A PASSAGEWAY IN MASHONGNAVI

A passageway in Mashongnavi

119

TERRACED HOUSES IN ZUÑI.

Terraced houses in Zuni.

120

CHAPTER V.

CHAPTER 5.

FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE.

IN the summer of 1867, with a small party of naturalists, students, and amateurs like myself, I visited the mountain region of Colorado Territory. While in Middle Park I explored a little canyon through which the Grand River runs, immediately below the now well-known watering place, Middle Park Hot Springs. Later in the fall I passed through Cedar Canyon, the gorge by which the Grand leaves the park. A result of the summer's study was to kindle a desire to explore the canyons of the Grand, Green, and Colorado rivers, and the next summer I organized an expedition with the intention of penetrating still farther into that canyon country.

In the summer of 1867, I went with a small group of naturalists, students, and fellow amateurs like myself to the mountain region of Colorado Territory. While in Middle Park, I explored a small canyon where the Grand River flows, just below what is now a popular resort, Middle Park Hot Springs. Later that fall, I traveled through Cedar Canyon, the gorge where the Grand River exits the park. One outcome of my summer studies was a growing desire to explore the canyons of the Grand, Green, and Colorado rivers, so the following summer I organized an expedition to dive even deeper into that canyon country.

As soon as the snows were melted, so that the main range could be crossed, I went over into Middle Park, and proceeded thence down the Grand to the head of Cedar Canyon, then across the Park Range by Gore's Pass, and in October found myself and party encamped on the White River, about 120 miles above its mouth. At that point I built cabins and established winter quarters, intending to occupy the cold season, as far as possible, in exploring the adjacent country. The winter of 1868-69 proved favorable to my purposes, and several excursions were made, southward to the Grand, down the White to the Green, northward to the Yampa, and around the Uinta Mountains. During these several excursions I seized every opportunity to study the canyons through which these upper streams run, and while thus engaged formed plans for the exploration of the canyons of the Colorado. Since that time I have been engaged in executing these plans, sometimes employed in the field, sometimes in the office. Begun originally as an exploration, the work was finally developed into a survey, embracing the geography, geology, ethnography, and natural

As soon as the snow melted enough to cross the main range, I headed into Middle Park and then traveled down the Grand River to the head of Cedar Canyon. I crossed the Park Range via Gore's Pass and by October, my group and I were set up on the White River, about 120 miles upstream from its mouth. At that location, I built cabins and set up winter quarters, planning to spend as much of the cold season as possible exploring the surrounding area. The winter of 1868-69 was favorable for my plans, and I made several trips south to the Grand, down the White to the Green, north to the Yampa, and around the Uinta Mountains. During these trips, I took every chance to study the canyons where these upper rivers flow, and while doing this, I developed plans for exploring the canyons of the Colorado. Since then, I have been focused on carrying out these plans, sometimes working in the field and sometimes in the office. What started as an exploration eventually turned into a comprehensive survey, covering geography, geology, ethnography, and natural history.

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THE START FROM GREEN RIVER STATION.

FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE.

history of the country, and a number of gentlemen have, from time to time, assisted me in the work.

history of the country, and several individuals have, from time to time, assisted me in the work.

Early in the spring of 1869 a party was organized for the exploration of the canyons. Boats were built in Chicago and transported by rail to the point where the Union Pacific Railroad crosses the Green River. With these we were to descend the Green to the Colorado, and the Colorado down to the foot of the Grand Canyon.

Early in the spring of 1869, a group was formed to explore the canyons. Boats were constructed in Chicago and shipped by train to the location where the Union Pacific Railroad crosses the Green River. With these, we planned to travel down the Green to the Colorado, and then down the Colorado to the base of the Grand Canyon.

May 24, 1869.--The good people of Green River City turn out to see us start. We raise our little flag, push the boats from shore, and the swift current carries us down.

May 24, 1869.--The friendly folks of Green River City come out to watch us set off. We raise our small flag, push the boats away from the shore, and the fast current takes us downstream.

Our boats are four in number. Three are built of oak; stanch and firm; double-ribbed, with double stem and stern posts, and further strengthened by bulkheads, dividing each into three compartments. Two of these, the fore and aft, are decked, forming water-tight cabins. It is expected these will buoy the boats should the waves roll over them in rough water. The fourth boat is made of pine, very light, but 16 feet in length, with a sharp cutwater, and every way built for fast rowing, and divided into compartments as the others. The little vessels are 21 feet long, and, taking out the cargoes, can be carried by four men.

Our boats are four in total. Three are made of oak; sturdy and strong, double-ribbed, with double stem and stern posts, and further reinforced by bulkheads, dividing each into three compartments. Two of these, the front and back, are decked, creating water-tight cabins. It's expected that these will help the boats stay afloat if waves crash over them in rough waters. The fourth boat is made of pine, very light, but 16 feet long, with a sharp bow, designed for fast rowing, and divided into compartments like the others. The small vessels are 21 feet long, and, once the cargo is removed, can be carried by four people.

We take with us rations deemed sufficient to last ten months, for we expect, when winter comes on and the river is filled with ice, to lie over at some point until spring arrives; and so we take with us abundant supplies of clothing, likewise. We have also a large quantity of ammunition and two or three dozen traps. For the purpose of building cabins, repairing boats, and meeting other exigencies, we are supplied with axes, hammers, saws, augers, and other tools, and a quantity of nails and screws. For scientific work, we have two sextants, four chronometers, a number of barometers, thermometers, compasses, and other instruments.

We’re bringing enough supplies to last us for ten months because we expect to stay put somewhere during the winter when the river freezes over, waiting for spring. We also have plenty of clothing with us. Along with that, we’re carrying a lot of ammunition and two or three dozen traps. To build cabins, fix boats, and handle other needs, we have axes, hammers, saws, augers, and other tools, plus a stash of nails and screws. For our scientific work, we’ve packed two sextants, four chronometers, several barometers, thermometers, compasses, and various other instruments.

The flour is divided into three equal parts; the meat, and all other articles of our rations, in the same way. Each of the larger boats has an axe, hammer, saw, auger, and other tools, so that all are loaded alike. We distribute the cargoes in this way that we may not be entirely destitute of some important article should any one of the boats be lost. In the small boat we pack a part of the scientific

The flour is split into three equal portions, along with the meat and all other items in our supplies. Each of the larger boats comes with an axe, hammer, saw, auger, and other tools, ensuring that they're all loaded similarly. We organize the cargo like this so that we won’t be completely without any essential item if one of the boats were to sink. In the small boat, we pack some of the scientific

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CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

instruments, three guns, and three small bundles of clothing, only; and in this I proceed in advance to explore the channel.

instruments, three guns, and three small bundles of clothing, only; and with this, I move ahead to explore the channel.

J. C. Sumner and William H. Dunn are my boatmen in the "Emma Dean"; then follows "Kitty Clyde's Sister," manned by W. H. Powell and G. Y. Bradley; next, the "No Name," with O. G. Howland, Seneca Howland, and Frank Goodman; and last comes the "Maid of the Canyon," with W. E. Hawkins and Andrew Hall.

J. C. Sumner and William H. Dunn are my boatmen on the "Emma Dean"; next is "Kitty Clyde's Sister," operated by W. H. Powell and G. Y. Bradley; then there's the "No Name," with O. G. Howland, Seneca Howland, and Frank Goodman; and finally, we have the "Maid of the Canyon," with W. E. Hawkins and Andrew Hall.

Sumner was a soldier during the late war, and before and since that time has been a great traveler in the wilds of the Mississippi Valley and the Rocky Mountains as an amateur hunter. He is a fair-haired, delicate-looking man, but a veteran in experience, and has performed the feat of crossing the Rocky Mountains in midwinter on snowshoes. He spent the winter of 1886-87 in Middle Park, Colorado, for the purpose of making some natural history collections for me, and succeeded in killing three grizzlies, two mountain lions, and a large number of elk, deer, sheep, wolves, beavers, and many other animals. When Bayard Taylor traveled through the parks of Colorado, Sumner was his guide, and he speaks in glowing terms of Mr. Taylor's genial qualities in camp, but he was mortally offended when the great traveler requested him to act as doorkeeper at Breckenridge to receive the admission fee from those who attended his lectures.

Sumner was a soldier during the recent war, and before and after that, he has traveled extensively in the wilderness of the Mississippi Valley and the Rocky Mountains as a casual hunter. He has fair hair and a delicate appearance, but he has a lot of experience. He even managed to cross the Rocky Mountains in the middle of winter on snowshoes. He spent the winter of 1886-87 in Middle Park, Colorado, to make some natural history collections for me and successfully hunted three grizzly bears, two mountain lions, and a large number of elk, deer, sheep, wolves, beavers, and many other animals. When Bayard Taylor traveled through the parks of Colorado, Sumner was his guide, and he spoke highly of Mr. Taylor's friendly personality while camping. However, he was deeply offended when the famous traveler asked him to act as a doorkeeper in Breckenridge to collect admission fees from those attending his lectures.

Dunn was a hunter, trapper, and mule-packer in Colorado for many years. He dresses in buckskin with a dark oleaginous luster, doubtless due to the fact that he has lived on fat venison and killed many beavers since he first donned his uniform years ago. His raven hair falls down to his back, for he has a sublime contempt of shears and razors.

Dunn was a hunter, trapper, and mule-packer in Colorado for many years. He wears buckskin that has a dark, oily sheen, likely because he has survived on fatty venison and has hunted many beavers since he first started wearing this outfit years ago. His raven hair reaches down to his back because he has a strong dislike for scissors and razors.

Captain Powell was an officer of artillery during the late war and was captured on the 22d day of July, 1864, at Atlanta and served a ten months' term in prison at Charleston, where he was placed with other officers under fire. He is silent, moody, and sarcastic, though sometimes he enlivens the camp at night with a song. He is never surprised at anything, his coolness never deserts him, and he would choke the belching throat of a volcano if he thought the spitfire meant anything but fun. We call him "Old Shady."

Captain Powell was an artillery officer during the last war and was captured on July 22, 1864, in Atlanta. He spent ten months in a prison in Charleston, where he was kept with other officers under fire. He's quiet, moody, and sarcastic, but sometimes he brightens up the camp at night with a song. Nothing surprises him; he always stays cool, and he would confront a raging volcano if he thought the eruption was just for fun. We call him "Old Shady."

Bradley, a lieutenant during the late war, and since orderly sergeant

Bradley, a lieutenant during the recent war, and now an orderly sergeant

FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE.

in the regular army, was, a few weeks previous to our start, discharged, by order of the Secretary of War, that he might go on this trip. He is scrupulously careful, and a little mishap works him into a passion,

in the regular army, was, a few weeks before we started, discharged, by order of the Secretary of War, so he could go on this trip. He is extremely careful, and even a small mistake makes him furious,

VIEW IN SICHUMOVI.

but when labor is needed he has a ready hand and powerful arm, and in danger, rapid judgment and unerring skill. A great difficulty or peril changes the petulant spirit into a brave, generous soul.

but when work is required, he has a willing hand and strong arm, and in danger, quick judgment and precise skill. A major challenge or threat transforms the irritable spirit into a brave, generous soul.

TRAIL UP WALPI MESA.

Trail up Walpi Mesa.

FROM GREEN EIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE.

FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE.

123

O. G. Howland is a printer by trade, an editor by profession, and a hunter by choice. When busily employed he usually puts his hat in his pocket, and his thin hair and long beard stream in the wind, giving him a wild look, much like that of King Lear in an illustrated copy of Shakespeare which tumbles around the camp.

O. G. Howland is a printer by trade, an editor by profession, and a hunter by choice. When he’s busy, he typically puts his hat in his pocket, and his thin hair and long beard blow in the wind, giving him a wild appearance, similar to that of King Lear in an illustrated edition of Shakespeare that is lying around the camp.

Seneca Howland is a quiet, pensive young man, and a great favorite with all.

Seneca Howland is a thoughtful, introspective young man, and a favorite among everyone.

Goodman is a stranger to us--a stout, willing Englishman, with florid face and more florid anticipations of a glorious trip.

Goodman is a stranger to us—a plump, eager Englishman with a bright red face and even brighter expectations for an amazing trip.

RIDGES ON BITTER CREEK.

Ridges on Bitter Creek.

Billy Hawkins, the cook, was a soldier in the Union Army during the war, and when discharged at its close went West, and since then has been engaged as teamster on the plains or hunter in the mountains. He is an athlete and a jovial good fellow, who hardly seems to know his own strength.

Billy Hawkins, the cook, was a soldier in the Union Army during the war, and when he got out after it ended, he went West. Since then, he’s been working as a teamster on the plains or hunting in the mountains. He's athletic and a fun, sociable guy who barely seems aware of his own strength.

Hall is a Scotch boy, nineteen years old, with what seems to us a "secondhand head," which doubtless came down to him from some knight who wore it during the Border Wars. It looks a very old head indeed, with deep-set blue eyes and beaked nose. Young as he is, Hall has had experience in hunting, trapping, and fighting Indians, and he makes the most of it, for he can tell a good story, and is never encumbered by unnecessary scruples in giving to his narratives those embellishments which help to make a story complete. He is always ready for work or play and is a good hand at either.

Hall is a 19-year-old Scottish guy with what looks like a "secondhand head," probably inherited from some knight who wore it during the Border Wars. It definitely looks very old, with deep-set blue eyes and a beaked nose. Even though he’s young, Hall has plenty of experience in hunting, trapping, and fighting Indians, and he knows how to use it to his advantage because he can tell a great story and never hesitates to spice up his narratives with details that make them more entertaining. He’s always up for work or play and excels at both.

Our boats are heavily loaded, and only with the utmost care is it pos-

Our boats are heavily loaded, and only with the greatest care is it pos-

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CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

sible to float in the rough river without shipping water. A mile or two below town we run on a sandbar. The men jump into the stream and thus lighten the vessels, so that they drift over, and on we go.

sible to float in the rough river without taking on water. A mile or two below town, we hit a sandbar. The men jump into the water to lighten the boats, so they can float over, and then we move on.

MESAS.

TABLES.

In trying to avoid a rock an oar is broken on one of the boats, and, thus crippled, she strikes. The current is swift and she is sent reeling and rocking into the eddy. In the confusion two other oars are lost overboard, and the men seem quite discomfited, much to the amusement of the other members of the party. Catching the oars and starting again, the boats are once more borne down the stream, until we land at a small cottonwood grove on the bank and camp for noon.

While trying to dodge a rock, one of the boats breaks an oar, and, now crippled, it strikes. The current is strong, and the boat is sent reeling and swaying into the eddy. In the confusion, two other oars go overboard, and the men seem pretty flustered, much to the amusement of the other members of the group. After retrieving the oars and getting back on track, the boats are once again pushed down the stream until we reach a small grove of cottonwoods by the bank and set up camp for lunch.

During the afternoon we run down to a point where the river sweeps the foot of an overhanging cliff, and here we camp for the night. The sun is yet two hours high, so I climb the cliffs and walk back among the strangely carved rocks of the Green River bad lands. These are sandstones and shales, gray and buff, red and brown, blue and black strata in many alternations, lying nearly horizontal, and almost without soil and vegetation. They are very friable, and the rain and streams have carved them into quaint shapes. Barren desolation is stretched before me; and yet there is a beauty in the scene. The fantastic carvings, imitating architectural forms and suggesting rude but weird

During the afternoon, we head down to a spot where the river meets the base of a steep cliff, and we set up camp for the night. The sun still has two hours to go before it sets, so I climb the cliffs and wander among the strangely shaped rocks of the Green River badlands. These rocks are made of sandstones and shales, in shades of gray, buff, red, brown, blue, and black, layered in various ways, lying almost flat and nearly devoid of soil and vegetation. They are very fragile, and rain and streams have carved them into unique shapes. A barren desolation stretches out in front of me; yet there’s a beauty to the scene. The unusual formations resemble architectural features and suggest rough but bizarre designs.

FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE.

125

statuary, with the bright and varied colors of the rocks, conspire to make a scene such as the dweller in verdure-clad hills can scarcely appreciate.

statuary, with the bright and varied colors of the rocks, come together to create a scene that someone living in lush, green hills can hardly appreciate.

Standing on a high point, I can look off in every direction over a vast landscape, with salient rocks and cliffs glittering in the evening sun. Dark shadows are settling in the valleys and gulches, and the heights are made higher and the depths deeper by the glamour and witchery of light and shade. Away to the south the Uinta Mountains stretch in a long line,--high peaks thrust into the sky, and snow fields glittering like lakes of molten silver, and pine forests in somber green, and rosy clouds playing around the borders of huge, black masses; and heights and clouds and mountains and snow fields and forests and rock-lands are blended into one grand view. Now the sun goes down, and I return to camp.

Standing on a high point, I can look in every direction over a vast landscape, with prominent rocks and cliffs shining in the evening sun. Dark shadows are settling in the valleys and gulches, making the heights seem taller and the depths deeper due to the magic of light and shadow. To the south, the Uinta Mountains stretch in a long line—high peaks reaching for the sky, snowfields sparkling like lakes of molten silver, somber green pine forests, and rosy clouds playing around the edges of huge, dark masses. Heights, clouds, mountains, snowfields, forests, and rocky landscapes blend into one stunning view. Now the sun is setting, and I head back to camp.

May 25.--We start early this morning and run along at a good

May 25.--We start early this morning and move along at a good pace.

A VALLEY WEST OF GREEN RIVER.

rate until about nine o'clock, when we are brought up on a gravelly bar. All jump out and help the boats over by main strength. Then a rain comes on, and river and clouds conspire to give us a thorough drenching. Wet, chilled, and tired to exhaustion, we stop at a cotton-

rate until around nine o'clock, when we arrive at a gravelly bar. Everyone hops out and helps lift the boats over using sheer strength. Then it starts to rain, and the river and clouds team up to give us a complete soaking. Wet, cold, and completely exhausted, we pause at a cotton-

126

CANYONS OF THE COLCHADO.

Canyons of the Colchado.

wood grove on the bank, build a huge fire, make a cup of coffee, and are soon refreshed and quite merry. When the clouds "get out of our sunshine" we start again. A few miles farther down a flock of mountain sheep are seen on a cliff to the right. The boats are quietly tied up and three or four men go after them. In the course of two

wood grove on the bank, build a huge fire, make a cup of coffee, and are soon refreshed and quite merry. When the clouds "get out of our sunshine" we start again. A few miles farther down a flock of mountain sheep is seen on a cliff to the right. The boats are quietly tied up, and three or four men go after them. In the course of two

ALCOVE LANDS.

ALCOVE PROPERTY.

or three hours they return. The cook has been successful in bringing down a fat lamb. The unsuccessful hunters taunt him with finding it dead; but it is soon dressed, cooked, and eaten, and makes a fine four o'clock dinner.

For three hours they return. The cook has managed to bring down a fat lamb. The hunters who didn't succeed tease him by saying he found it dead; but it’s soon prepared, cooked, and eaten, making for a great four o'clock dinner.

"All aboard," and down the river for another dozen miles. On the way we pass the mouth of Black's Fork, a dirty little stream that seems somewhat swollen. Just below its mouth we land and camp.

"All aboard," and down the river for another twelve miles. On the way, we pass the mouth of Black's Fork, a dirty little stream that seems a bit swollen. Just below its mouth, we stop and set up camp.

May 26.--To-day we pass several curiously shaped buttes, standing between the west bank of the river and the high bluffs beyond. These buttes are outliers of the same beds of rocks as are exposed on the faces of the bluffs,--thinly laminated shales and sandstones of many colors, standing above in vertical cliffs and buttressed below with a water-carved talus; some of them attain an altitude of nearly a thousand feet above the level of the river.

May 26.--Today we pass several oddly shaped buttes, located between the west bank of the river and the high bluffs beyond. These buttes are extensions of the same rock layers visible on the cliffs, featuring thinly laminated shales and sandstones in various colors, rising above as vertical cliffs and supported below by water-carved debris; some of them reach nearly a thousand feet above the river level.

FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE.

127

We glide quietly down the placid stream past the carved cliffs of the mauvaises terres, now and then obtaining glimpses of distant mountains. Occasionally, deer are started from the glades among the willows; and several wild geese, after a chase through the water, are shot. After dinner we pass through a short and narrow canyon into a broad valley; from this, long, lateral valleys stretch back on either side as far as the eye can reach.

We float silently down the calm stream past the carved cliffs of the mauvaises terres, catching occasional glimpses of distant mountains. Sometimes, deer are startled from the glades among the willows, and several wild geese are shot after a chase through the water. After dinner, we go through a short, narrow canyon into a wide valley; from here, long side valleys stretch out on either side as far as we can see.

Two or three miles below, Henry's Fork enters from the right. We land a short distance above the junction, where a cache of instruments and rations was made several months ago in a cave at the foot of the cliff, a distance back from the river. Here they were safe from the elements and wild beasts, but not from man. Some anxiety is

Two or three miles downstream, Henry's Fork comes in from the right. We dock just above the junction, where a cache of tools and supplies was stashed a few months back in a cave at the base of the cliff, set back from the river. This spot kept them protected from the weather and wild animals, but not from humans. Some worry is

BAD LANDS.

Badlands.

felt, as we have learned that a party of Indians have been camped near the place for several weeks. Our fears are soon allayed, for we find the cache undisturbed. Our chronometer wheels have not been taken for hair ornaments, our barometer tubes for beads, or the sextant thrown into the river as "bad medicine," as had been predicted. Taking up our cache, we pass down to the foot of the Uinta Mountains and in a cold storm go into camp.

felt, as we have learned that a group of Native Americans has been camped nearby for several weeks. Our fears are quickly eased when we find the cache untouched. Our chronometer wheels haven't been taken for hair ornaments, our barometer tubes for beads, and the sextant hasn't been thrown into the river as "bad medicine," as was predicted. After packing up our cache, we head down to the base of the Uinta Mountains and set up camp in a chilly storm.

128

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

The river is running to the south; the mountains have an easterly and westerly trend directly athwart its course, yet it glides on in a quiet way as if it thought a mountain range no formidable obstruction. It enters the range by a flaring, brilliant red gorge, that may be seen from the north a score of miles away. The great mass of the

The river flows to the south; the mountains trend east and west directly across its path, yet it moves smoothly as if it sees a mountain range as no serious barrier. It enters the range through a wide, vibrant red gorge that can be seen from the north twenty miles away. The massive колоссы of the

OUR INDIAN GUIDE.

mountain ridge through which the gorge is cut is composed of bright vermilion rocks; but they are surmounted by broad bands of mottled buff and gray, and these bands come down with a gentle curve to the water's edge on the nearer slope of the mountain.

The mountain ridge that forms the gorge is made up of bright vermilion rocks, but it’s topped with wide bands of mottled tan and gray. These bands curve gently down to the water's edge on the closer slope of the mountain.

This is the head of the first of the canyons we are about to explore--an introductory one to a series made by the river through this

This is the beginning of the first canyon we're about to explore—an introduction to a series formed by the river through this

FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE.

129

range. We name it Flaming Gorge. The cliffs, or walls, we find on measurement to be about 1,200 feet high.

range. We call it Flaming Gorge. The cliffs, or walls, we measure to be about 1,200 feet tall.

May 27.--To-day it rains, and we employ the time in repairing one of our barometers, which was broken on the way from New York. A new tube has to be put in; that is, a long glass tube has to be filled with mercury, four or five inches at a time, and each installment boiled

May 27.--Today it's raining, and we’re using the time to fix one of our barometers that was damaged on the trip from New York. We need to put in a new tube; that is, we have to fill a long glass tube with mercury, four or five inches at a time, and boil each section.

OUR GUIDE'S BOY.

OUR GUIDE'S KID.

over a spirit lamp. It is a delicate task to do this without breaking the glass; but we have success, and are ready to measure mountains once more.

over a spirit lamp. It's a careful task to do this without breaking the glass; but we've succeeded, and we're ready to measure mountains once again.

May 28.--To-day we go to the summit of the cliff on the left and take observations for altitude, and are variously employed in topographic and geologic work.

May 28.--Today we head to the top of the cliff on the left to take altitude measurements and work on various topographic and geological tasks.

130

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

May 29.--This morning Bradley and I cross the river and climb more than a thousand feet to a point where we can see the stream sweeping in a long, beautiful curve through the gorge below. Turning and looking to the west, we can see the valley of Henry's Fork, through which, for many miles, the little river flows in a tortuous channel. Cottonwood groves are planted here and there along its course, and between them are stretches of grass land. The narrow mountain valley is inclosed on either side by sloping walls of naked rock of many

May 29.--This morning, Bradley and I crossed the river and climbed over a thousand feet to a spot where we could see the stream sweeping in a long, beautiful curve through the gorge below. Turning to the west, we could see the valley of Henry's Fork, where the little river flows for many miles in a winding channel. Cottonwood groves are scattered along its path, with stretches of grassy land in between. The narrow mountain valley is enclosed on either side by sloping walls of bare rock of many

GREEN RIVER PLAINS.

Green River Plains.

bright colors. To the south of the valley are the Uintas, and the peaks of the Wasatch Mountains can be faintly seen in the far west. To the north, desert plains, dotted here and there with curiously carved hills and buttes, extend to the limit of vision.

bright colors. To the south of the valley are the Uintas, and the peaks of the Wasatch Mountains can be just barely seen in the far west. To the north, desert plains, scattered with oddly shaped hills and buttes, stretch to the horizon.

For many years this valley has been the home of a number of mountaineers, who were originally hunters and trappers, living with the Indians. Most of them have one or more Indian wives. They no longer roam with the nomadic tribes in pursuit of buckskin or beaver, but have accumulated herds of cattle and horses, and consider themselves quite well to do. Some of them have built cabins; others

For many years, this valley has been home to several mountaineers who were originally hunters and trappers living among the Native Americans. Most of them have one or more Native American wives. They no longer travel with the nomadic tribes in search of buckskin or beaver, but have gathered herds of cattle and horses, and consider themselves quite well-off. Some of them have built cabins; others

FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE.

131

still live in lodges. John Baker is one of the most famous of these men, and from our point of view we can see his lodge, three or four miles up the river.

still live in lodges. John Baker is one of the most well-known of these men, and from our perspective, we can see his lodge about three or four miles up the river.

The distance from Green River City to Flaming Gorge is 62 miles. The river runs between bluffs, in some places standing so close to each other that no flood plain is seen. At such a point the river might properly be said to run through a canyon. The bad lands on either side are interrupted here and there by patches of Artemisia, or sage brush. Where there is a flood plain along either side of the river, a few cottonwoods may be seen.

The distance from Green River City to Flaming Gorge is 62 miles. The river flows between bluffs, sometimes so close together that there’s no visible flood plain. At those points, the river can be considered to run through a canyon. The badlands on either side are dotted with patches of Artemisia, or sagebrush. Where there is a flood plain along either side of the river, you might see a few cottonwoods.

THE CHIEF KIVA OF SHUPAULOVI.

The main Kiva of Shupaulovi.

132

WALPI.

133

CHAPTER VI.

CHAPTER 6.

FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE.

ONE must not think of a mountain range as a line of peaks standing on a plain, but as a broad platform many miles wide from which mountains have been carved by the waters. One must conceive, too, that this plateau is cut by gulches and canyons in many directions and that beautiful valleys are scattered about at different altitudes. The first series of canyons we are about to explore constitutes a river channel through such a range of mountains. The canyon is cut nearly halfway through the range, then turns to the east and is cut along the central line, or axis, gradually crossing it to the south. Keeping this direction for more than 50 miles, it then turns abruptly to a southwest course, and goes diagonally through the southern slope of the range.

ONE should not think of a mountain range as just a line of peaks on a flat surface, but rather as a vast platform many miles wide from which mountains have been shaped by water. It's also important to understand that this plateau is intersected by ravines and canyons in various directions, with beautiful valleys located at different elevations. The first series of canyons we are about to explore forms a river channel through such a mountain range. The canyon is carved nearly halfway through the range, then shifts to the east and is cut along the central line or axis, gradually crossing it to the south. Maintaining this path for over 50 miles, it then makes a sharp turn to a southwest direction, running diagonally through the southern slope of the range.

This much we know before entering, as we made a partial exploration of the region last fall, climbing many of its peaks, and in a few places reaching the brink of the canyon walls and looking over precipices many hundreds of feet high to the water below.

This much we know before entering, as we explored part of the area last fall, climbing many of its peaks, and in a few places reached the edge of the canyon walls and looked over cliffs that were several hundred feet high down to the water below.

Here and there the walls are broken by lateral canyons, the channels of little streams entering the river. Through two or three of these we found our way down to the Green in early winter and walked along the low water-beach at the foot of the cliffs for several miles. Where the river has this general easterly direction the western part only has cut for itself a canyon, while the eastern has formed a broad valley, called, in honor of an old-time trapper, Brown's Park, and long known as a favorite winter resort for mountain men and Indians.

Here and there, the walls are interrupted by side canyons, where small streams flow into the river. We made our way through two or three of these to reach the Green in early winter and walked along the low riverbank at the base of the cliffs for several miles. In the areas where the river generally flows east, the western side has only carved out a canyon, while the eastern side has created a wide valley, named after an old trapper, Brown's Park, which has long been a popular winter retreat for mountain men and Native Americans.

May 30.--This morning we are ready to enter the mysterious canyon, and start with some anxiety. The old mountaineers tell us that it cannot be run; the Indians say, "Water heap catch 'em"; but all are eager for the trial, and off we go.

May 30.--This morning we’re set to enter the mysterious canyon, feeling a bit anxious. The veteran climbers tell us it can’t be navigated; the Indians warn, “Water will catch them”; but everyone is excited for the adventure, so we’re off.

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CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

Entering Flaming Gorge, we quickly run through it on a swift current and emerge into a little park. Half a mile below, the river wheels sharply to the left and enters another canyon cut into the mountain. We enter the narrow passage. On either side the walls rapidly increase in altitude. On the left are overhanging ledges and cliffs,--500, 1,000, 1,500 feet high.

Entering Flaming Gorge, we quickly navigate through it on a fast current and come out into a small park. Half a mile downstream, the river turns sharply to the left and enters another canyon carved into the mountain. We go into the narrow passage. On both sides, the walls rise steeply. On the left, there are overhanging ledges and cliffs—500, 1,000, 1,500 feet high.

On the right the rocks are broken and ragged, and the water fills the channel from cliff to cliff. Now the river turns abruptly around a point to the right, and the waters plunge swiftly down among great rocks; and here we have our first experience with canyon rapids. I stand up on the deck of my boat to seek a way among the wave-beaten rocks. All untried as we are with such waters, the moments are filled with intense anxiety. Soon our boats reach the swift current; a stroke or two, now on this. side, now on that, and we thread the narrow passage with exhilarating Velocity, mounting the high waves, whose foaming crests dash over us, and plunging into the troughs, until we reach the quiet water below. Then comes a feeling of great relief. Our first rapid is run. Another mile, and we come into the valley again.

On the right, the rocks are jagged and broken, and the water fills the channel from cliff to cliff. Now the river makes a sharp turn to the right, and the waters rush down among large rocks; here we experience our first taste of canyon rapids. I stand on the deck of my boat, trying to find a way among the wave-battered rocks. Completely inexperienced with these waters, each moment is filled with intense anxiety. Soon our boats hit the fast current; a stroke or two, now on this side, now on that, and we navigate the narrow passage with thrilling speed, climbing the high waves, their foaming crests crashing over us, and diving into the troughs, until we finally reach the calm water below. Then comes a huge sense of relief. We've made it through our first rapid. Another mile, and we enter the valley again.

CAMP AT FLAMING GORGE

Camp at Flaming Gorge

135

MASHONGNAVI, WITH SHUPAULOVI IN THE DISTANCE.

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HORSESHOE CANYON.

Horseshoe Canyon.

FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. 137

Let me explain this canyon. Where the river turns to the left above, it takes a course directly into the mountain, penetrating to its very heart, then wheels back upon itself, and runs out into the valley from which it started only half a mile below the point at which it entered; so the canyon is in the form of an elongated letter U, with the apex in the center of the mountain. We name it Horseshoe Canyon.

Let me describe this canyon. Where the river bends to the left up ahead, it cuts directly into the mountain, going deep into its core, then curves back on itself and flows out into the valley from which it came, just half a mile below where it entered; so the canyon is shaped like an elongated letter U, with the peak at the center of the mountain. We call it Horseshoe Canyon.

Soon we leave the valley and enter another short canyon, very narrow at first, but widening below as the canyon walls increase in height. Here we discover the mouth of a beautiful little creek coming down through its narrow water-worn cleft. Just at its entrance there is a park of two or three hundred acres, walled on every side by almost vertical cliffs hundreds of feet in altitude, with three gateways through the walls--one up the river, another down, and a third through which the creek comes in. The river is broad, deep, and quiet, and its waters mirror towering rocks.

Soon we leave the valley and enter another short canyon, very narrow at first, but widening below as the canyon walls rise higher. Here we find the mouth of a beautiful little creek flowing through its narrow, water-worn opening. At its entrance, there’s a park of two or three hundred acres, surrounded on all sides by nearly vertical cliffs hundreds of feet high, with three openings through the walls—one upstream, another downstream, and a third where the creek flows in. The river is wide, deep, and calm, and its waters reflect the towering rocks.

Kingfishers are playing about the streams, and so we adopt as names Kingfisher Creek, Kingfisher Park, and Kingfisher Canyon. At night we camp at the foot of this canyon.

Kingfishers are flying around the streams, so we name them Kingfisher Creek, Kingfisher Park, and Kingfisher Canyon. At night, we camp at the bottom of this canyon.

Our general course this day has been south, but here the river turns to the east around a point which is rounded to the shape of a dome. On its sides little cells have been carved by the action of the water, and in these pits, which cover the face of the dome, hundreds of swallows have built their nests. As they flit about the cliffs, they look like swarms of bees, giving to the whole the appearance of a colossal beehive of the old-time form, and so we name it Beehive Point.

Our general direction today has been south, but here the river curves east around a dome-shaped point. On its sides, little cells have been carved out by the water's action, and in these pits that dot the dome, hundreds of swallows have made their nests. As they dart around the cliffs, they look like swarms of bees, giving the whole area the appearance of a massive old-fashioned beehive, which is why we call it Beehive Point.

The opposite wall is a vast amphitheater, rising in a succession of terraces to a height of 1,200 or 1,500 feet. Each step is built of red sandstone, with a face of naked red rock and a glacis clothed with verdure. So the amphitheater seems banded red and green, and the evening sun is playing with roseate flashes on the rocks, with shimmering green on the cedars' spray, and with iridescent gleams on the dancing waves. The landscape revels in the sunshine.

The opposite wall is a huge amphitheater, soaring in a series of terraces to a height of 1,200 or 1,500 feet. Each level is made of red sandstone, featuring bare red rock and a gentle slope covered in greenery. This makes the amphitheater appear striped with red and green, while the evening sun casts rosy highlights on the rocks, shimmering green on the cedar branches, and iridescent reflections on the rippling waves. The landscape basks in the sunlight.

May 31.--We start down another canyon and reach rapids made dangerous by high rocks lying in the channel; so we run ashore and let our boats down with lines. In the afternoon we come to more dangerous rapids and stop to examine them. I find we must do the same work

May 31.--We head down another canyon and arrive at rapids that are risky due to large rocks in the channel; so we pull ashore and lower our boats with ropes. In the afternoon, we encounter more treacherous rapids and take a break to look them over. I realize we have to do the same work.

138 8 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

again, but, being on the wrong side of the river to obtain a foothold, must first cross over--no very easy matter in such a current, with rapids and rocks below. We take the pioneer boat, "Emma Dean," over, and unload her on the bank; then she returns and takes another load. Running back and forth, she soon has half our cargo over. Then one of the larger boats is manned and taken across, but is carried down almost to the rocks in spite of hard rowing. The other boats follow and make the landing, and we go into camp for the night.

again, but since we were on the wrong side of the river and needed to find a way to get across, we had to cross over first—which wasn't easy with the current and the rapids and rocks below. We took the pioneer boat, "Emma Dean," across and unloaded her on the bank; then she went back to get another load. Running back and forth, she quickly ferried over half our cargo. Then one of the larger boats was manned and taken across, but it was swept down almost to the rocks despite the hard rowing. The other boats followed and made it to shore, and we set up camp for the night.

At the foot of the cliff on this side there is a long slope covered with pines; under these we make our beds, and soon after sunset are seeking rest and sleep. The cliffs on either side are of red sandstone and stretch toward the heavens 2,500 feet. On this side the long, pine-clad slope is surmounted by perpendicular cliffs, with pines on their summits. The wall on the other side is bare rock from the water's edge up 2,000 feet, then slopes back, giving footing to pines and cedars.

At the base of the cliff on this side, there’s a long slope covered in pines; we set up our beds here, and shortly after sunset, we look for rest and sleep. The cliffs on both sides are made of red sandstone and rise toward the sky, reaching 2,500 feet. On this side, the long slope filled with pines is topped by vertical cliffs, which have pines growing at their peaks. The wall on the opposite side is solid rock from the water's edge rising 2,000 feet, then slopes back, allowing pines and cedars to take root.

As the twilight deepens, the rocks grow dark and somber; the threatening roar of the water is loud and constant, and I lie awake with thoughts of the morrow and the canyons to come, interrupted now and then by characteristics of the scenery that attract my attention. And here I make a discovery. On looking at the mountain directly in front, the steepness of the slope is greatly exaggerated, while the distance to its summit and its true altitude are correspondingly diminished. I have heretofore found that to judge properly of the slope of a mountain side, one must see it in profile. In coming down the river this afternoon, I observed the slope of a particular part of the wall and made an estimate of its altitude. While at supper, I noticed the same cliff from a position facing it, and it seemed steeper, but not half so high. Now lying on my side and looking at it, the true proportions appear. This seems a wonder, and I rise to take a view of it standing. It is the same cliff as at supper time. Lying down again, it is the cliff as seen in profile, with a long slope and distant summit. Musing on this, I forget "the morrow and the canyons to come"; I have found a way to estimate the altitude and slope of an inclination, in like manner as I can judge of distance along the horizon. The reason is simple. A reference to the stereoscope will

As twilight sets in, the rocks take on a dark and heavy appearance; the thunderous sound of the water is loud and relentless, and I lie awake with thoughts of tomorrow and the canyons ahead, occasionally distracted by the features of the landscape that catch my eye. And here I make a discovery. When I look at the mountain right in front of me, the steepness of the slope seems greatly exaggerated, while the distance to its peak and its actual height seem reduced. I’ve previously found that to accurately judge the slope of a mountain, you need to see it from the side. While coming down the river this afternoon, I noticed the slope of a certain section of the cliff and estimated its height. During dinner, I looked at the same cliff straight on, and it appeared steeper, but not nearly as tall. Now, as I lie on my side and gaze at it, the true proportions become clear. It's remarkable, so I get up to view it while standing. It’s the same cliff as at dinner. When I lie back down, it looks like the cliff viewed in profile, with a long slope leading to a distant peak. Reflecting on this, I forget about "tomorrow and the canyons to come"; I’ve discovered a way to estimate the height and slope of an incline, similar to how I can judge distance along the horizon. The reason is straightforward. A reference to the stereoscope will

FROM FLAMING GOEGE TO THE GATE OF LODOEE.

139

suggest it. The distance between the eyes forms a base line for optical triangulation.

suggest it. The distance between the eyes creates a baseline for optical triangulation.

June 1.--To-day we have an exciting ride. The river rolls down the canyon at a wonderful rate, and, with no rocks in the way, we make

June 1.--Today we have an exciting ride. The river flows down the canyon at an amazing speed, and with no rocks in our path, we make

140

SCENE IN HAND.

almost railroad speed. Here and there the water rushes into a narrow gorge; the rocks on the side roll it into the center in great waves, and the boats go leaping and bounding over these like things of life, reminding me of scenes witnessed in Middle Park--herds of startled deer bounding through forests beset with fallen timber. I

almost railroad speed. Here and there the water rushes into a narrow gorge; the rocks on the sides roll it into the center in great waves, and the boats leap and bounce over these like living things, reminding me of scenes I've seen in Middle Park—herds of startled deer bounding through forests filled with fallen trees. I

140

PESCADO PUEBLO----OUTSIDE STEPS.

FISH TOWN ---- OUTSIDE STEPS.

FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE.

141

mention the resemblance to some of the hunters, and so striking is it that the expression, "See the blacktails jumping the logs," comes to be a common one. At times the waves break and roll over the boats, which necessitates much bailing and obliges us to stop occasionally for that purpose. At one time we run twelve miles in an hour, stoppages included.

mention the resemblance to some of the hunters, and it’s so striking that the expression, "See the blacktails jumping the logs," becomes a common saying. Occasionally, the waves crash and roll over the boats, which means we have to bail out water and stop every now and then for that reason. At one point, we cover twelve miles in an hour, including the stops.

Last spring I had a conversation with an old Indian named Páriate, who told me about one of his tribe attempting to run this canyon. "The rocks," he said, holding his hands above his head, his arms vertical, and looking between them to the heavens, "the rocks h-e-a-p,

Last spring, I talked to an elderly Indian named Páriate, who shared a story about someone from his tribe trying to navigate this canyon. "The rocks," he said, raising his hands above his head, arms straight up, and gazing between them toward the sky, "the rocks h-e-a-p,

OVEN NEAR PESCADO PUEBLO.

Oven near Fish Town.

h-e-a-p high; the water go h-oo-woogh, h-oo-woogh; water-pony li-e-a-p buck; water catch 'em; no see 'em Injun any more! no see 'em squaw any more! no see 'em papoose any more!"

h-e-a-p high; the water goes h-oo-woogh, h-oo-woogh; water-pony li-e-a-p buck; water catches them; don’t see them Injun anymore! don’t see them squaw anymore! don’t see them papoose anymore!"

Those who have seen these wild Indian ponies rearing alternately before and behind, or "bucking," as it is called in the vernacular, will appreciate his description.

Those who have seen these wild Indian ponies rearing up both in front and behind, or "bucking," as it's referred to in everyday language, will understand his description.

At last we come to calm water, and a threatening roar is heard in the distance. Slowly approaching the point whence the sound issues, we come near to falls, and tie up just above them on the left. Here we shall be compelled to make a portage; so we unload the boats,

At last, we reach calm water, and a menacing roar echoes in the distance. As we slowly approach the source of the sound, we get close to some waterfalls and tie up just above them on the left. Here, we’ll need to carry our gear around the falls, so we unload the boats,

142

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

PRIMITIVE ANDIRON IN SHUMOPAVI.

Primitive fireplace tool in Shumopavi.

and fasten a long line to the bow of the smaller one, and another to the stern, and moor her close to the brink of the fall. Then the bowline is taken below and made fast; the stern line is held by five or six men, and the boat let down as long as they can hold her against the rushing waters; then, letting go one end of the line, it runs through the ring; the boat leaps over the fall and is caught by the lower rope.

and attach a long rope to the front of the smaller boat, and another to the back, and secure it close to the edge of the waterfall. Then the bowline is taken below and secured; the stern line is held by five or six men, and the boat is lowered as long as they can keep it steady against the rushing water; then, releasing one end of the line, it passes through the ring; the boat jumps over the fall and is caught by the lower rope.

Now we rest for the night.

Now we relax for the night.

June 2.--This morning we make a trail among the rocks, transport the cargoes to a point below the fall, let the remaining boats over, and are ready to start before noon.

June 2.--This morning we create a path through the rocks, move the cargo to a spot below the waterfall, get the other boats across, and are set to leave before noon.

On a high rock by which the trail passes we find the inscription: "Ashley 18-5." The third figure is obscure--some of the party reading it 1835, some 1855. James Baker, an old-time mountaineer, once told me about a party of men starting down the river, and Ashley was

On a high rock along the trail, we see the inscription: "Ashley 18-5." The third number is unclear—some in the group read it as 1835, while others think it's 1855. James Baker, an old-time mountaineer, once shared a story about a group of men heading down the river, and Ashley was

FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE.

143

named as one. The story runs that the boat was swamped, and some of the party drowned in one of the canyons below. The word "Ashley" is a warning to us, and we resolve on great caution. Ashley Falls is the name we give to the cataract.

named as one. The story goes that the boat got swamped, and some of the party drowned in one of the canyons below. The name "Ashley" serves as a warning to us, and we decide to be very careful. Ashley Falls is the name we give to the waterfall.

The river is very narrow, the right wall vertical for 200 or 300 feet, the left towering to a great height, with a vast pile of broken rocks lying between the foot of the cliff and the water. Some of the rocks broken down from the ledge above have tumbled into the channel and caused this fall. One great cubical block, thirty or forty feet high, stands in the middle of the stream, and the waters, parting to either side, plunge down about twelve feet, and are broken again by the smaller rocks into a rapid below. Immediately below the falls the water occupies the entire channel, there being no talus at the foot of the cliffs.

The river is really narrow, with the right wall rising straight up for 200 or 300 feet, and the left side soaring to a great height, where a huge pile of broken rocks sits between the base of the cliff and the water. Some of the rocks that broke off from the ledge above have fallen into the channel and created this waterfall. A massive cube-shaped block, about thirty or forty feet tall, is in the middle of the stream, and the water splits to flow around it, plunging down about twelve feet, then crashing again into smaller rocks, forming a rapid below. Right below the falls, the water fills the entire channel, with no debris at the bottom of the cliffs.

TUSAYAN HEALING-STONES.

Tusayans Healing Stones.

144

K1VA AND STONE CORRALS OF MASHONGNAVI.

FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. 145

We embark and run down a short distance, where we find a landing-place for dinner.

We head out and run a short distance until we find a spot to have dinner.

On the waves again all the afternoon. Near the lower end of this canyon, to which we have given the name of Red Canyon, is a little park, where streams come down from distant mountain summits and enter the river on either side; and here we camp for the night under two stately pines.

On the waves again all afternoon. Near the lower end of this canyon, which we’ve named Red Canyon, there's a small park where streams flow down from distant mountain peaks and join the river on both sides; and here we camp for the night under two majestic pines.

June 3.--This morning we spread our rations, clothes, etc., on the ground to dry, and several of the party go out for a hunt. I take a walk of five or six miles up to a pine-grove park, its grassy carpet bedecked with crimson velvet flowers, set in groups on the stems of pear-shaped cactus plants; patches of painted cups are seen here and there, with yellow blossoms protruding through scarlet bracts; little blue-eyed flowers are peeping through the grass; and the air is filled with fragrance from the white blossoms of the Spiraea. A mountain brook runs through the midst, ponded below by beaver dams. It is a quiet place for retirement from the raging waters of the canyon.

June 3.--This morning, we laid out our food, clothes, and other things on the ground to dry, while several people in the group went out to hunt. I took a walk of about five or six miles to a pine grove park, its grassy ground covered in bright red velvet flowers, clustered on the stems of pear-shaped cactus plants. Patches of painted cups were scattered here and there, with yellow flowers poking through scarlet bracts; little blue-eyed flowers were peeking through the grass, and the air was filled with the sweet scent of the white blossoms of the Spiraea. A mountain stream flowed through the area, pooling below beaver dams. It was a peaceful spot to escape the raging waters of the canyon.

It will be remembered that the course of the river from Flaming Gorge to Beehive Point is in a southerly direction and at right angles to the Uinta Mountains, and cuts into the range until it reaches a point within five miles of the crest, where it turns to the east and pursues a course not quite parallel to the trend of the range, but crosses the axis slowly in a direction a little south of east. Thus there is a triangular tract between the river and the axis of the mountain, with its acute angle extending eastward. I climb the mountain overlooking this country. To the east the peaks are not very high, and already most of the snow has melted, but little patches lie here and there under the lee of ledges of rock. To the west the peaks grow higher and the snow fields larger. Between the brink of the canyon and the foot of these peaks, there is a high bench. A number of creeks have their sources in the snowbanks to the south and run north into the canyon, tumbling down from 3,000 to 5,000 feet in a distance of five or six miles. Along their upper courses they run through grassy valleys, but as they approach Red Canyon they rapidly disappear under the general surface of the country, and emerge into the canyon below in

It’s worth noting that the river flows from Flaming Gorge to Beehive Point in a southerly direction, and at a right angle to the Uinta Mountains. It cuts into the range until it gets within five miles of the crest, where it turns eastward and follows a path that isn't exactly parallel to the mountain range, but crosses the axis slowly in a direction slightly to the south of east. This creates a triangular area between the river and the mountain's axis, with its sharp angle pointing east. I climb the mountain that overlooks this area. To the east, the peaks aren’t very tall, and most of the snow has already melted, though small patches can still be found in the shade of rock ledges. To the west, the peaks become taller and the snowfields larger. Between the edge of the canyon and the base of these peaks, there’s a high bench. Several creeks originate from the snowbanks to the south and flow north into the canyon, dropping between 3,000 to 5,000 feet over a distance of five or six miles. In their upper stretches, they flow through grassy valleys, but as they near Red Canyon, they quickly vanish beneath the surface of the land and reappear in the canyon below.

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CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

deep, dark gorges of their own. Each of these short lateral canyons is marked by a succession of cascades and a wild confusion of rocks and trees and fallen timber and thick undergrowth.

deep, dark gorges of their own. Each of these short side canyons is marked by a series of waterfalls and a chaotic mix of rocks, trees, fallen timber, and dense underbrush.

The little valleys above are beautiful parks; between the parks are stately pine forests, half hiding ledges of red sandstone. Mule deer and elk abound; grizzly bears, too, are abundant; and here wild cats, wolverines, and mountain lions are at home. The forest aisles are filled with the music of birds, and the parks are decked

The small valleys above are lovely parks; between the parks are impressive pine forests, partly concealing ledges of red sandstone. Mule deer and elk are everywhere; grizzly bears, too, are plentiful; and here, wildcats, wolverines, and mountain lions make their home. The forest paths are filled with the sounds of birds, and the parks are adorned

"HOGBACKS," WITH INTERVENING VALLEYS.

"Hogbacks" with valleys in between.

with flowers. Noisy brooks meander through them; ledges of moss-covered rocks are seen; and gleaming in the distance are the snow fields, and the mountain tops are away in the clouds.

with flowers. Noisy streams wind through them; patches of moss-covered rocks are visible; and shining in the distance are the snowfields, with the mountain peaks hidden in the clouds.

June 4---We start early and run through to Brown's Park. Halfway down the valley, a spur of a red mountain stretches across the river, which cuts a canyon through it. Here the walls are comparatively low, but vertical. A vast number of swallows have built their adobe houses on the face of the cliffs, on either side of the river. The waters are deep and quiet, but the swallows are swift and noisy enough, sweeping by in their curved paths through the air or chattering from the rocks, while the young ones stretch their little heads on naked necks

June 4---We start early and make our way to Brown's Park. Halfway down the valley, a red mountain juts out over the river, which carves a canyon through it. Here, the canyon walls are relatively low but straight up and down. A huge number of swallows have built their adobe nests on the cliffs on both sides of the river. The water is deep and calm, but the swallows zip around noisily, flying in their curved paths through the air or chattering away from the rocks, while the young ones stretch their little heads on their bare necks.

FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. 147

through the doorways of their mud houses and clamor for food. They are a noisy people. We call this Swallow Canyon.

through the doorways of their mud houses and shout for food. They are a loud people. We call this Swallow Canyon.

Still down the river we glide until an early hour in the afternoon, when we go into camp under a giant cottonwood standing on the right bank a little way back from the stream. The party has succeeded in killing a fine lot of wild ducks, and during the afternoon a mess of fish is taken.

Still down the river we move until early afternoon, when we set up camp under a huge cottonwood tree on the right bank, a bit back from the water. The group has managed to catch a good number of wild ducks, and during the afternoon, we also catch a bunch of fish.

June 5.--With one of the men I climb a mountain, off on the right. A long spur, with broken ledges of rock, puts down to the river, and along its course, or up the "hogback," as it is called, I make the ascent. Dunn, who is climbing to the same point, is coming up the gulch. Two hours' hard work has brought us to the summit. These mountains are all verdure-clad; pine and cedar forests are set on green terraces; snow-clad mountains are seen in the distance, to the west; the plains of the upper Green stretch out before us to the north until they are lost in the blue heavens; but half of the river-cleft range intervenes, and the river itself is at our feet.

June 5.--I'm climbing a mountain with one of the guys, off to the right. A long ridge with jagged rock ledges extends down to the river, and I make my way up along its path, or up the "hogback," as it's called. Dunn, who is also heading to the same spot, is coming up the canyon. After two hours of hard work, we've reached the summit. These mountains are all covered in greenery; pine and cedar forests are arranged on green terraces; snow-capped peaks are visible in the distance to the west; the upper Green plains stretch out before us to the north until they fade into the blue sky, but half of the river-carved range is in the way, and the river itself is right at our feet.

This half range, beyond the river, is composed of long ridges nearly parallel with the valley. On the farther ridge, to the north, four creeks have their sources. These cut through the intervening ridges, one of which is much higher than that on which they head, by canyon gorges; then they run with gentle curves across the valley, their banks set with willows, box-elders, and cottonwood groves. To the east we look up the valley of the Vermilion, through which Fremont found his path on his way to the great parks of Colorado.

This half range, beyond the river, is made up of long ridges that are almost parallel to the valley. On the far ridge to the north, there are four creeks that start. These creeks cut through the ridges in between, with one being much higher than the ridge it begins on, creating canyon gorges. They then flow gently across the valley, their banks lined with willows, box elders, and cottonwood groves. To the east, we can see up the valley of the Vermilion, which Fremont followed on his journey to the great parks of Colorado.

The reading of the barometer taken, we start down in company, and reach camp tired and hungry, which does not abate one bit our enthusiasm as we tell of the day's work with its glory of landscape.

The barometer reading complete, we head down together and arrive at camp exhausted and hungry, but that doesn't dampen our excitement as we share stories of the day's work with its stunning scenery.

June 6.--At daybreak I am awakened by a chorus of birds. It seems as if all the feathered songsters of the region have come to the old tree. Several species of warblers, woodpeckers, and flickers above, meadow larks in the grass, and wild geese in the river. I recline on my elbow and watch a lark near by, and then awaken my bedfellow, to listen to my Jenny Lind. A real morning concert for me; none of your "matinées"!

June 6.--At dawn, I wake up to a chorus of birds. It feels like all the songbirds in the area have gathered at the old tree. There are several types of warblers, woodpeckers, and flickers above, meadowlarks in the grass, and wild geese in the river. I prop myself up on my elbow and watch a lark nearby, then wake up my companion to hear my own Jenny Lind. It's a real morning concert for me; not one of those "matinées"!

Our cook has been an ox-driver, or "bull-whacker," on the plains, in

Our cook has been a bull driver, or "bull-whacker," on the plains, in

148

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

AN ANCIENT PUEBLO METATE.

AN ANCIENT PUEBLO GRINDING STONE.

one of those long trains now no longer seen, and he hasn't forgotten his old ways. In the midst of the concert, his voice breaks in: "Roll out! roll out! bulls in the corral! chain up the gaps! Roll out! roll out! roll out!" And this is our breakfast bell.

one of those long trains you don't see anymore, and he hasn't forgotten his old habits. In the middle of the concert, his voice cuts in: "Roll out! roll out! bulls in the corral! chain up the gaps! Roll out! roll out! roll out!" And this is our breakfast bell.

To-day we pass through, the park, and camp at the head of another canyon.

Toady we walk through the park and set up camp at the start of another canyon.

June 7.--To-day two or three of us climb to the summit of the cliff on the left, and find its altitude above camp to be 2,086 feet. The rocks are split with fissures, deep and narrow, sometimes a hundred feet or more to the bottom, and these fissures are filled with loose earth and decayed vegetation in which lofty pines find root. On a rock we find a pool of clear, cold water, caught from yesterday evening's shower. After a good drink we walk out to the brink of the canyon and look down to the water below. I can do this now, but it has taken several years of mountain climbing to cool my nerves so that I can sit with my feet over the edge and calmly look down a precipice 2,000 feet. And yet I cannot look on and see another do the same. I must either bid him come away or turn my head. The canyon walls are buttressed on a grand scale, with deep alcoves intervening; columned crags crown the cliffs, and the river is rolling below.

June 7.--Today, a couple of us climbed to the top of the cliff on the left and discovered that it rises 2,086 feet above camp. The rocks are cracked with deep, narrow fissures, sometimes over a hundred feet straight down, and these cracks are filled with loose soil and decaying plants where tall pines take root. We found a pool of clear, cold water on a rock, collected from last night's rain. After a refreshing drink, we made our way to the edge of the canyon and looked down at the water below. I can do this now, but it took me several years of mountain climbing to steady my nerves enough to sit with my feet dangling over a 2,000-foot drop and calmly gaze down a cliff. Yet, I can't bear to watch someone else do the same. I either have to urge them to step away or look away myself. The canyon walls are impressively supported, with deep alcoves in between; columned cliffs crown the edges, and the river flows steadily below.

When we return to camp at noon the sun shines in splendor on vermilion walls, shaded into green and gray where the rocks are lichened over; the river fills the channel from wall to wall, and the canyon opens, like a beautiful portal, to a region of glory. This evening, as I write, the sun is going down and the shadows are settling in the canyon. The vermilion gleams and roseate hues, blending with the green and gray tints, are slowly changing to somber brown above, and black shadows are creeping over them below; and now it is a dark portal to a region of gloom--the gateway through which we are to enter on our voyage of exploration tomorrow. What shall we find?

When we get back to camp at noon, the sun is shining brilliantly on the red walls, with shades of green and gray where the rocks are covered in lichen. The river stretches from one side to the other, and the canyon opens up like a stunning doorway to a glorious area. This evening, as I write, the sun is setting and shadows are falling into the canyon. The bright red and pink hues, mixing with the green and gray tones, are slowly turning into dark brown above, while black shadows creep in below; now it looks like a dark entrance to a gloomy place—the gateway we’ll pass through on our exploration tomorrow. What will we discover?

A ZUÑÍ STOOL.

A Zuni stool.

FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE.

149

The distance from Flaming Gorge to Beehive Point is 9 2/3 miles. Besides passing through the gorge, the river runs through Horseshoe and Kingfisher canyons, separated by short valleys. The highest point on the walls at Flaming Gorge is 1,300 feet above the river. The east wall at the apex of Horseshoe Canyon is about 1,600 feet above the water's edge, and from this point the walls slope both to the head and foot of the canyon.

The distance from Flaming Gorge to Beehive Point is 9 2/3 miles. In addition to going through the gorge, the river flows through Horseshoe and Kingfisher canyons, which are separated by short valleys. The highest point on the walls at Flaming Gorge is 1,300 feet above the river. The east wall at the peak of Horseshoe Canyon is about 1,600 feet above the water’s edge, and from this point, the walls slope down towards both the beginning and end of the canyon.

Kingfisher Canyon, starting at the water's edge above, steadily increases in altitude to 1,200 feet at the foot.

Kingfisher Canyon begins at the water's edge above and gradually rises to an elevation of 1,200 feet at the bottom.

Red Canyon is 25 2/3 miles long, and the highest walls are about 2,500 feet.

Red Canyon is 25 and 2/3 miles long, and the highest walls reach about 2,500 feet.

Brown's Park is a valley, bounded on either side by a mountain range, really an expansion of the canyon. The river, through the park, is 35 1/2 miles long, but passes through two short canyons on its way, where spurs from the mountains on the south are thrust across its course.

Brown's Park is a valley, bordered on both sides by a mountain range, which is really an extension of the canyon. The river running through the park is 35 1/2 miles long, but it goes through two short canyons along the way, where ridges from the mountains to the south jut across its path.

150

THE HOME OF THE CHIEF.

THE CHIEF'S HOME.

151

CHAPTER VII.

CHAPTER 7.

THE CANYON OF LODORE.

Lodore Canyon.

JUNE 8.--We enter the canyon, and until noon find a succession of rapids, over which, our boats have to be taken. Here I must explain our method of proceeding at such places. The "Emma Dean "'goes in advance; the other boats follow, in obedience to signals. When we approach a rapid, or what on other rivers would often be called a fall, I stand on deck to examine it, while the oarsmen back water, and we drift on as slowly as possible. If I can see a clear chute between the rocks, away we go; but if the channel is beset entirely across, we signal the other boats, pull to land, and I walk along the shore for closer examination. If this reveals no clear channel, hard work begins. We drop the boats to the very head of the dangerous place and let them over by lines or make a portage, frequently carrying both boats and cargoes over the rocks.

JUNE 8.--We enter the canyon and until noon, we encounter a series of rapids that our boats need to navigate. Here, I need to explain how we handle these situations. The "Emma Dean" goes first; the other boats follow based on signals. When we get close to a rapid, or what other rivers might refer to as a waterfall, I stand on deck to assess it while the rowers pull back on the oars to slow down. If I spot a clear path through the rocks, we go for it; but if the channel is completely blocked, we signal the other boats, pull to the shore, and I walk along the bank for a better look. If that doesn’t show any clear route, the hard work starts. We move the boats to the very beginning of the tricky area and either let them down with ropes or carry them, often hauling both boats and loads over the rocks.

The waves caused by such falls in a river differ much from the waves of the sea. The water of an ocean wave merely rises and falls; the form only passes on, and form chases form unceasingly. A body floating on such waves merely rises and sinks--does not progress unless impelled by wind or some other power. But here the water of the wave passes on while the form remains. The waters plunge down ten or twenty feet to the foot of a fall, spring up again in a great wave, then down and up in a series of billows that gradually disappear in the more quiet waters below; but these waves are always there, and one can stand above and count them.

The waves created by waterfalls in a river are very different from ocean waves. Ocean waves just rise and fall; the shape moves along while the shape continually follows another shape. An object floating on those waves only goes up and down—it doesn’t move forward unless pushed by the wind or some other force. But here, the water of the wave moves on while the shape stays still. The water plunges down ten or twenty feet at the base of a waterfall, rises again in a huge wave, then goes down and up in a series of swells that gradually fade into the calmer waters below; but these waves are always present, and you can stand above them and count them.

A boat riding such billows leaps and plunges along with great velocity. Now, the difficulty in riding over these falls, when no rocks are in the way, is with the first wave at the foot. This will sometimes gather for a moment, heap up higher and higher, and then break back.

A boat riding those waves jumps and dives with great speed. Now, the challenge of getting over these falls, when there are no rocks in the way, lies with the first wave at the bottom. Sometimes, this wave will build up for a moment, rising higher and higher, and then crash back.

152 2 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

If the boat strikes it the instant after it breaks, she cuts through, and the mad breaker dashes its spray over the boat and washes overboard all who do not cling tightly. If the boat, in going over the falls, chances to get caught in some side current and is turned from its course, so as to strike the wave "broadside on," and the wave breaks at the same instant, the boat is capsized; then we must cling to her, for the water-tight compartments act as buoys and she cannot sink; and so we go, dragged through the waves, until still waters are reached, when we right the boat and climb aboard. We have several such experiences to-day.

If the boat hits it right after it breaks, it cuts through, and the wild wave sprays over the boat and washes anyone off who doesn't hold on tight. If the boat, while going over the falls, gets caught in a side current and is turned sideways to hit the wave, and the wave breaks at the same time, the boat flips over; then we must hold on tight, because the water-tight compartments act like buoys, and it can't sink; so we get dragged through the waves until we reach calmer waters, when we can right the boat and climb back in. We have several experiences like this today.

At night we camp on the right bank, on a little shelving rock between the river and the foot of the cliff; and with night comes gloom into these great depths. After supper we sit by our camp fire, made of driftwood caught by the rocks, and tell stories of wild life; for the men have seen such in the mountains or on the plains, and on the battlefields of the South. It is late before we spread our blankets on the beach.

At night, we camp on the right bank, on a small sloping rock between the river and the base of the cliff; and with nightfall comes darkness into these vast depths. After dinner, we gather around our campfire, built from driftwood caught by the rocks, and share stories of wildlife; the men have encountered such creatures in the mountains, on the plains, and on the battlefields of the South. It’s late by the time we lay out our blankets on the beach.

Lying down, we look up through the canyon and see that only a little of the blue heaven appears overhead--a crescent of blue sky, with two or three constellations peering down upon us. I do not sleep for some time, as the excitement of the day has not worn off. Soon I see a bright star that appears to rest on the very verge of the cliff overhead to the east. Slowly it seems to float from its resting place on the rock over the canyon. At first it appears like a jewel set on the brink of the cliff, but as it moves out from the rock I almost wonder that it does not fall. In fact, it does seem to descend in a gentle curve, as though the bright sky in which the stars are set were spread across the canyon, resting on either wall, and swayed down by its own weight. The stars appear to be in the canyon. I soon discover that it is the bright star Vega; so it occurs to me to designate this part of the wall as the "Cliff of the Harp."

Lying down, we look up through the canyon and see that only a little bit of the blue sky shows above us—a crescent of blue, with a couple of constellations gazing down. I can’t sleep for a while since the excitement of the day hasn’t faded. Soon, I spot a bright star that seems to rest right at the edge of the cliff above to the east. It slowly looks like it's floating away from its spot on the rock over the canyon. At first, it seems like a jewel sitting on the cliff's edge, but as it moves away from the rock, I almost wonder how it doesn’t fall. It really looks like it's descending gently, as if the bright sky where the stars are set were stretched across the canyon, resting on both sides and swaying under its own weight. The stars appear to be in the canyon. I soon realize that it’s the bright star Vega; so it occurs to me to call this part of the wall the "Cliff of the Harp."

June 9.--One of the party suggests that we call this the Canyon of Lodore, and the name is adopted. Very slowly we make our way, often climbing on the rocks at the edge of the water for a few hundred yards to examine the channel before running it. During the afternoon we come to a place where it is necessary to make a portage. The little boat is landed and the others are signaled to come up.

June 9.--One of the group suggests we call this the Canyon of Lodore, and the name is accepted. We move very slowly, often climbing over the rocks at the water’s edge for a few hundred yards to check out the channel before navigating it. In the afternoon, we reach a spot where we need to unload the boat. The small boat is brought ashore, and we signal for the others to catch up.

THE CANYON OF LODOKE.

THE LODOKE CANYON.

153

When these rapids or broken falls occur usually the channel is suddenly narrowed by rocks which have been tumbled from the cliffs or

When these rapids or waterfalls happen, the channel is usually suddenly narrowed by rocks that have fallen from the cliffs or

GATE OF LODORE.

Lodore Gate.

have been washed in by lateral streams. Immediately above the narrow, rocky channel, on one or both sides, there is often a bay of quiet water, in which a landing can be made with ease. Sometimes

have been washed in by lateral streams. Right above the narrow, rocky channel, on one or both sides, there’s often a calm bay of water where you can easily land. Sometimes

154 4 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado

the water descends with a smooth, unruffled surface from the broad, quiet spread above into the narrow, angry channel below by a semicircular sag. Great care must be taken not to pass over the brink into this deceptive pit, but above it we can row with safety. I walk along the bank to examine the ground, leaving one of my men with a flag to guide the other boats to the landing-place. I soon see one of the boats make shore all right, and feel no more concern; but a minute after, I hear a shout, and, looking around, see one of the boats shooting down the center of the sag. It is the "No Name," with Captain Howland, his brother, and Goodman. I feel that its going over is inevitable, and run to save the third boat. A minute more, and she turns the point and heads for the shore. Then I turn down stream again and scramble along to look for the boat that has gone over. The first fall is not great, only 10 or 12 feet, and we often run such; but below, the river tumbles down again for 40 or 50 feet, in a channel filled with dangerous rocks that break the waves into whirlpools and beat them into foam. I pass around a great crag just in time to see the boat strike a rock and, rebounding from the shock, careen and fill its open compartment with water. Two of the men lose their oars; she swings around and is carried down at a rapid rate, broadside on, for a few yards, when, striking amidships on another rock with great force, she is broken quite in two and the men are thrown into the river. But the larger part of the boat floats buoyantly, and they soon seize it, and down the river they drift, past the rocks for a few hundred yards, to a second rapid filled with huge boulders, where the boat strikes again and is dashed to pieces, and the men and fragments are soon carried beyond my sight. Running along, I turn a bend and see a man's head above the water, washed about in a whirlpool below a great rock. It is Frank Goodman, clinging to the rock with a grip upon which life depends. Coming opposite, I see Howland trying to go to his aid from an island on which he has been washed. Soon he comes near enough to reach Frank with a pole, which he extends toward him. The latter lets go the rock, grasps the pole, and is pulled ashore. Seneca Howland is washed farther down the island and is caught by some rocks, and, though somewhat bruised, manages to get ashore in safety. This seems a long time as I tell it, but it is quickly done.

the water flows down smoothly and calmly from the wide, peaceful area above into the narrow, raging channel below, forming a semicircular dip. We have to be very careful not to go over the edge into this misleading pit, but above it we can row safely. I walk along the bank to check the ground, leaving one of my men with a flag to guide the other boats to the landing spot. I soon see one of the boats reach the shore just fine, and I feel relieved; but a minute later, I hear a shout and, looking around, see one of the boats rushing down the center of the dip. It’s the "No Name," with Captain Howland, his brother, and Goodman on board. I know they’re going to go over, so I run to save the third boat. A minute later, it turns the corner and heads for the shore. Then I turn back downstream and hurry along to find the boat that has gone over. The first drop isn’t huge, only about 10 or 12 feet, and we often deal with drops like that; but downstream, the river drops again for 40 or 50 feet, in a channel filled with dangerous rocks that create whirlpools and smash the water into foam. I go around a large rock just in time to see the boat hit a rock, bounce off from the impact, and fill its open compartment with water. Two of the men lose their oars; the boat swings around and is carried downstream at a fast pace, broadside on, for a few yards, when it hits another rock hard and breaks in two, throwing the men into the river. But the larger part of the boat floats and they quickly grab onto it, drifting down the river for a few hundred yards past the rocks to a second rapid filled with huge boulders, where the boat hits again and is smashed to pieces, and the men and debris are soon swept out of my sight. As I run along, I turn a bend and see a man's head above the water, tossed about in a whirlpool below a large rock. It’s Frank Goodman, holding onto the rock for dear life. When I get close, I see Howland trying to help him from an island he was washed onto. Soon he gets close enough to reach Frank with a pole, which he extends toward him. Frank lets go of the rock, grabs the pole, and gets pulled to safety. Seneca Howland is washed further down the island and gets caught by some rocks, but although he’s a bit bruised, he manages to get ashore safely. This may sound like a long time as I tell it, but it all happens very quickly.

THE CANYON OF LODORE. 155

And now the three men are on an island, with a swift, dangerous river on either side and a fall below. The "Emma Dean" is soon brought down, and Sumner, starting above as far as possible, pushes

And now the three men are on an island, with a fast, treacherous river on either side and a drop below. The "Emma Dean" is quickly brought down, and Sumner, starting from as high up as possible, pushes

WRECK AT DISASTER FALLS.

Wreck at Disaster Falls.

out. Right skillfully he plies the oars, and a few strokes set him on the island at the proper point. Then they all pull the boat up stream as far as they are able, until they stand in water up to their necks. One

out. He skillfully rows the boat, and a few strokes get him to the island at the right spot. Then they all drag the boat upstream as far as they can, until they’re standing in water up to their necks. One

156 6 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

sits on a rock and holds the boat until the others are ready to pull, then gives the boat a push, clings to it with his hands, and climbs in as they pull for mainland, which they reach in safety. We are as glad to shake hands with them as though they had been on a voyage around the world and wrecked on a distant coast.

sits on a rock and holds the boat until the others are ready to pull, then gives the boat a push, grabs onto it with his hands, and climbs in as they pull for the mainland, which they reach safely. We are just as happy to shake hands with them as if they had been on a journey around the world and had shipwrecked on a faraway shore.

Down the river half a mile we find that the after cabin of the

Down the river half a mile, we discover that the back cabin of the

METALLIFEROUS VEINS EXPOSED TO VIEW.

Metallic veins on display.

wrecked boat, with a part of the bottom, ragged and splintered, has floated against a rock and stranded. There are valuable articles in the cabin; but, on examination, we determine that life should not

wrecked boat, with part of the bottom torn and splintered, has floated against a rock and gotten stuck. There are valuable items in the cabin; but, upon examining them, we decide that life should not

THE CANYON OF LODORE. 157

THE LODORE CANYON. 157

be risked to save them. Of course, the cargo of rations, instruments, and clothing is gone.

be risked to save them. Of course, the cargo of food, equipment, and clothing is gone.

We return to the boats and make camp for the night. No sleep comes to me in all those dark hours. The rations, instruments, and clothing have been divided among the boats, anticipating such an accident as this; and we started with duplicates of everything that was deemed necessary to success. But, in the distribution, there was one exception to this precaution--the barometers were all placed in one boat, and they are lost! There is a possibility that they are in the cabin lodged against the rock, for that is where they were kept. But, then, how to reach them? The river is rising. Will they be there to-morrow? Can I go out to Salt Lake City and obtain barometers from New York?

We head back to the boats and set up camp for the night. I can’t sleep at all during those long dark hours. We divided up the food, tools, and clothes among the boats, planning for situations like this, and we started out with extra of everything necessary for our success. However, there was one exception to this plan—the barometers were all stored in one boat, and now they’re gone! There’s a chance they’re in the cabin, wedged against the rock, because that’s where we kept them. But how do I get to them? The river is rising. Will they still be there tomorrow? Can I head out to Salt Lake City and get new barometers from New York?

June 10.--I have determined to get the barometers from the wreck, if they are there. After breakfast, while the men make the portage, I go down again for another examination, There the cabin lies, only carried 50 or 60 feet farther on. Carefully looking over the ground, I am satisfied that it can be reached with safety, and return to tell the men my conclusion. Sumner and Dunn volunteer to take the little boat and make the attempt. They start, reach it, and out come the barometers! The boys set up a shout, and I join them, pleased that they should be as glad as myself to save the instruments. When the boat lands on our side, I find that the only things saved from the wreck were the barometers, a package of thermometers, and a three-gallon keg of whiskey. The last is what the men were shouting about. They had taken it aboard unknown to me, and now I am glad they did take it, for it will do them good, as they are drenched every day by the melting snow which runs down from the summits of the Rocky Mountains.

June 10.--I've decided to get the barometers from the wreck, if they're still there. After breakfast, while the guys carry the gear overland, I head back down for another look. The cabin is just 50 or 60 feet farther along. After carefully checking the area, I feel confident it can be reached safely, and I go back to share my thoughts with the team. Sumner and Dunn volunteer to take the small boat and give it a try. They set off, reach the cabin, and out come the barometers! The guys cheer, and I join them, happy that they're as excited as I am to retrieve the instruments. When the boat returns to our side, I find out that the only items salvaged from the wreck were the barometers, a package of thermometers, and a three-gallon keg of whiskey. That's what the men were cheering about. They brought it aboard without me knowing, and now I'm glad they did, because it will lift their spirits, especially since they get soaked every day by the melting snow from the Rocky Mountains.

We come back to our work at the portage and find that it is necessary to carry our rations over the rocks for nearly a mile and to let our boats down with lines, except at a few points, where they also must be carried. Between the river and the eastern wall of the canyon there is an immense talus of broken rocks. These have tumbled down from the cliffs above and constitute a vast pile of huge angular fragments. On these we build a path for a quarter of a mile to a small sand-beach covered with driftwood, through which we clear a way for several

We return to our work at the portage and find that we need to carry our supplies over the rocks for nearly a mile and lower our boats down with ropes, except at a few spots where they also have to be carried. Between the river and the eastern wall of the canyon, there’s a massive pile of broken rocks that have fallen from the cliffs above. These rocks form a huge mound of large, jagged pieces. On this, we create a path for a quarter of a mile to a small sandy beach covered with driftwood, where we clear a way for several

158 8 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

hundred yards, then continue the trail over another pile of rocks nearly half a mile farther down, to a little bay. The greater part of the day is spent in this work. Then we carry our cargoes down to the beach and camp for the night.

hundred yards, then follow the trail over another pile of rocks nearly half a mile further down, to a small bay. We spend most of the day doing this. Then we bring our loads down to the beach and set up camp for the night.

While the men are building the camp fire, we discover an iron bake-oven, several tin plates, a part of a boat, and many other fragments, which denote that this is the place where Ashley's party was wrecked.

While the guys are setting up the campfire, we find an iron bake oven, several tin plates, part of a boat, and many other bits and pieces that indicate this is where Ashley's group was wrecked.

June 11.--This day is spent in carrying our rations down to the bay--no small task, climbing over the rocks with sacks of flour and bacon. We carry them by stages of about 500 yards each, and when night comes and the last sack is on the beach, we are tired, bruised, and glad to sleep.

June 11.--This day is spent hauling our supplies down to the bay—no easy job, climbing over the rocks with bags of flour and bacon. We transport them in sections of about 500 yards each, and when night falls and the last bag is on the beach, we are exhausted, sore, and ready to sleep.

June 12.--To-day we take the boats down to the bay. While at this work we discover three sacks of flour from the wrecked boat that have lodged in the rocks. We carry them above high-water mark and leave them, as our cargoes are already too heavy for the three remaining boats. We also find two or three oars, which we place with them.

June 12.--Today, we take the boats down to the bay. While doing this, we find three sacks of flour from the wrecked boat that got stuck in the rocks. We carry them above the high-water mark and leave them there since our loads are already too heavy for the three remaining boats. We also find two or three oars, which we place with the sacks.

As Ashley and his party were wrecked here and as we have lost one of our boats at the same place, we adopt the name Disaster Falls for the scene of so much peril and loss.

As Ashley and his group were shipwrecked here, and since we lost one of our boats at the same spot, we are naming this place Disaster Falls to mark the scene of so much danger and loss.

Though some of his companions were drowned, Ashley and one other survived the wreck, climbed the canyon wall, and found their way across the Wasatch Mountains to Salt Lake City, living chiefly on berries, as they wandered through an unknown and difficult country. When they arrived at Salt Lake they were almost destitute of clothing and nearly starved. The Mormon people gave them food and clothing and employed them to work on the foundation of the Temple until they had earned sufficient to enable them to leave the country. Of their subsequent history, I have no knowledge. It is possible they returned to the scene of the disaster, as a little creek entering the river below is known as Ashley's Creek, and it is reported that he built a cabin and trapped on this river for one or two winters; but this may have been before the disaster.

Though some of his companions drowned, Ashley and one other person survived the wreck, climbed the canyon wall, and made their way across the Wasatch Mountains to Salt Lake City, mostly living on berries as they traveled through an unfamiliar and challenging area. When they got to Salt Lake, they were almost out of clothes and nearly starving. The Mormon community provided them with food and clothing and hired them to work on the foundation of the Temple until they earned enough to leave the area. I don’t have any information about what happened to them afterward. It’s possible they went back to the site of the disaster, as a small creek joining the river below is known as Ashley's Creek, and there are reports that he built a cabin and trapped along this river for a winter or two; but that might have been before the disaster.

June 13.--Rocks, rapids, and portages still. We camp to-night at

June 13.--Still dealing with rocks, rapids, and portages. We're camping tonight at

THE CANYON OF LODOEE.

LODOEE CANYON.

159

the foot of the left fall, on a little patch of flood plain covered with a dense growth of box-elders, stopping early in order to spread the clothing and rations to dry. Everything is wet and spoiling.

the bottom of the left fall, on a small section of floodplain covered with a thick growth of box elders, stopping early to spread out the clothes and food to dry. Everything is soaked and going bad.

June 14.--Howland and I climb the wall on the west side of the canyon to an altitude of 2,000 feet. Standing above and looking to the west, we discover a large park, five or six miles wide and twenty or thirty long. The cliff we have climbed forms a wall between the canyon and the park, for it is 800 feet down the western side to the valley. A creek comes winding down 1,200 feet above the river, and, entering the intervening wall by a canyon, plunges down more than 1,000 feet, by a broken cascade, into the river below.

June 14.--Howland and I climb the wall on the west side of the canyon to an altitude of 2,000 feet. Standing at the top and looking west, we see a large park, five or six miles wide and twenty or thirty miles long. The cliff we climbed acts as a barrier between the canyon and the park, as it's 800 feet down the western side to the valley. A creek winds down 1,200 feet above the river, and, entering the intervening wall through a canyon, plunges down over 1,000 feet in a broken cascade into the river below.

June 15.--To-day, while we make another portage, a peak, standing on the east wall, is climbed by two of the men and found to be 2,700 feet above the river. On the east side of the canyon a vast amphitheater has been cut, with massive buttresses and deep, dark alcoves in which

June 15.--Today, while we do another portage, two of the men climb a peak on the east wall and find it to be 2,700 feet above the river. On the east side of the canyon, there’s a huge amphitheater that has been formed, featuring massive buttresses and deep, dark alcoves in which

WINNIE'S GROTTO, A SIDE CANYON.

Winnie's Grotto, a side canyon.

160 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

grow beautiful mosses and delicate ferns, while springs burst out from the farther recesses and wind in silver threads over floors of sand rock. Here we have three falls in close succession. At the first the water is compressed into a very narrow channel against the right-hand cliff, and falls 15 feet in 10 yards. At the second we have a broad sheet of water tumbling down 20 feet over a group of rocks that thrust their dark heads through the foam. The third is a broken fall, or short, abrupt rapid, where the water makes a descent of more than 20 feet among huge, fallen fragments of the cliff. We name the group Triplet Falls. We make a portage around the first; past the second and the third we let down with lines.

grow beautiful mosses and delicate ferns, while springs burst out from the farther recesses and wind in silver threads over floors of sandstone. Here we have three waterfalls in close succession. At the first, the water is compressed into a very narrow channel against the right-hand cliff and falls 15 feet over 10 yards. At the second, we have a wide sheet of water tumbling down 20 feet over a group of rocks that push their dark heads through the foam. The third is a broken fall, or a short, abrupt rapid, where the water drops more than 20 feet among huge, fallen pieces of the cliff. We call the group Triplet Falls. We carry our gear around the first; past the second and the third, we lower it with ropes.

During the afternoon, Dunn and Howland having returned from their climb, we run down three quarters of a mile on quiet waters and land at the head of another fall. On examination, we find that there is an abrupt plunge of a few feet and then the river tumbles for half a mile with a descent of a hundred feet, in a channel beset with great numbers of huge boulders. This stretch of the river is named Hell's Half-Mile. The remaining portion of the day is occupied in making a trail among the rocks at the foot of the rapid.

During the afternoon, after Dunn and Howland got back from their climb, we ran three-quarters of a mile on calm waters and landed at the start of another waterfall. Upon inspection, we discovered there was a steep drop of a few feet, and then the river cascaded for half a mile with a drop of a hundred feet through a channel filled with a lot of large boulders. This stretch of the river is called Hell's Half-Mile. We spent the rest of the day creating a path among the rocks at the base of the rapid.

June 16.--Our first work this morning is to carry our cargoes to the foot of the falls. Then we commence letting down the boats. We take two of them down in safety, but not without great difficulty; for, where such a vast body of water, rolling down an inclined plane, is broken into eddies and cross-currents by rocks projecting from the cliffs and piles of boulders in the channel, it requires excessive labor and much care to prevent the boats from being dashed against the rocks or breaking away. Sometimes we are compelled to hold the boat against a rock above a chute until a second line, attached to the stem, is carried to some point below, and when all is ready the first line is detached and the boat given to the current, when she shoots down and the men below swing her into some eddy.

June 16.--Our first task this morning is to move our loads to the base of the falls. Then we start lowering the boats. We safely bring down two of them, but it’s not without a lot of trouble; with such a large volume of water flowing down a slope, it gets agitated into swirls and counter-currents by rocks jutting out from the cliffs and clusters of boulders in the channel. It takes a lot of effort and careful coordination to keep the boats from crashing into the rocks or breaking loose. Sometimes we have to secure the boat against a rock above a drop until a second line, attached to the front, is secured to a spot downstream, and when everything is set, the first line is released, and the boat is released into the current, shooting down as the men below guide it into a safe eddy.

At such a place we are letting down the last boat, and as she is set free a wave turns her broadside down the stream, with the stem, to which the line is attached, from shore and a little up. They haul on the line to bring the boat in, but the power of the current, striking obliquely against her, shoots her out into the middle of the river. The

At that spot, we are lowering the last boat, and as it is released, a wave pivots it sideways down the stream, with the front, where the line is attached, angled slightly toward the shore. They pull on the line to bring the boat in, but the force of the current, hitting it at an angle, sends it out into the middle of the river. The

THE CANYON OF LODORE.

LODORE CANYON.

161

men have their hands burned with the friction of the passing line; the boat breaks away and speeds with great velocity down the stream. The "Maid of the Canyon" is lost! So it seems; but she drifts

men have their hands burned by the friction of the moving line; the boat breaks free and zooms quickly down the stream. The "Maid of the Canyon" is gone! Or at least it seems that way; but she drifts

ERODED TOWERS CAPPED WITH LARGE BLOCKS OF SANDSTONE.

ERODED TOWERS TOPPED WITH LARGE BLOCKS OF SANDSTONE.

some distance and swings into an eddy, in which she spins about until we arrive with the small boat and rescue her.

some distance and swings into an eddy, where she spins around until we get there with the small boat and rescue her.

Soon we are on our way again, and stop at the mouth of a little brook on the right for a late dinner. This brook comes down from the distant

Soon we're on our way again and stop at the mouth of a small brook on the right for a late lunch. This brook flows down from the distant

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Colorado Canyons.

mountains in a deep side canyon. We set out to explore it, but are soon cut off from farther progress up the gorge by a high rock, over which the brook glides in a smooth sheet. The rock is not quite vertical, and the water does not plunge over it in a fall.

mountains in a deep side canyon. We set out to explore it, but we're soon blocked from going further up the gorge by a steep rock, over which the brook flows in a smooth sheet. The rock isn't completely vertical, and the water doesn’t cascade over it in a waterfall.

Then we climb up to the left for an hour, and are 1,000 feet above the river and 600 above the brook. Just before us the canyon divides, a little stream coming down on the right and another on the left, and we can look away up either of these canyons, through an ascending vista, to cliffs and crags and towers a mile back and 2,000 feet overhead. To the right a dozen gleaming cascades are seen. Pines and firs stand on the rocks and aspens overhang the brooks. The rocks below are red and brown, set in deep shadows, but above they are buff and vermilion and stand in the sunshine. The light above, made more brilliant by the bright-tinted rocks, and the shadows below, more gloomy

Then we climb to the left for an hour, rising 1,000 feet above the river and 600 feet above the stream. Right in front of us, the canyon splits, with a small stream flowing down on the right and another on the left. We can gaze up either of these canyons, through an ascending view, at cliffs and rocky spires towering a mile back and 2,000 feet above us. To the right, we see a dozen sparkling waterfalls. Pines and firs stand on the rocks, while aspens hang over the streams. The rocks below are red and brown, shrouded in deep shadows, but above, they’re buff and vermilion, basking in the sunlight. The brilliant light above, enhanced by the brightly colored rocks, contrasts with the gloomier shadows below.

FIRE IN CAMP.

Campfire.

by reason of the somber hues of the brown walls, increase the apparent depths of the canyons, and it seems a long way up to the world of sunshine and open sky, and a long way down to the bottom of the

by the dark colors of the brown walls, enhance the perceived depths of the canyons, and it feels like a long way up to the world of sunlight and open sky, and a long way down to the bottom of the

THE CANYON OF LODORE. 163

THE LODORE CANYON. 163

canyon glooms. Never before have I received such an impression of the vast heights of these canyon walls, not even at the Cliff of the Harp, where the very heavens seemed to rest on their summits. We sit on some overhanging rocks and enjoy the scene for a time, listening to the music of the falling waters away up the canyon. We name this Rippling Brook.

canyon glooms. I've never felt such a sense of the towering heights of these canyon walls, not even at the Cliff of the Harp, where it felt like the sky itself was resting on top. We sit on some jutting rocks and take in the view for a while, enjoying the sound of the waters cascading further up the canyon. We call this Rippling Brook.

Late in the afternoon we make a short run to the mouth of another little creek, coming down from the left into an alcove filled with luxuriant vegetation. Here camp is made, with a group of cedars on one side and a dense mass of box-elders and dead willows on the other.

Late in the afternoon, we take a quick trip to the entrance of another small creek, flowing in from the left into a nook filled with lush greenery. Here, we set up camp, with a cluster of cedars on one side and a thick tangle of box elders and dead willows on the other.

I go up to explore the alcove. While away a whirlwind comes and scatters the fire among the dead willows and cedar-spray, and soon there is a conflagration. The men rush for the boats, leaving all they cannot readily seize at the moment, and even then they have their clothing burned and hair singed, and Bradley has his ears scorched. The cook fills his arms with the mess-kit, and jumping into a boat, stumbles and falls, and away go our cooking utensils into the river. Our plates are gone; our spoons are gone; our knives and forks are gone. "Water catch 'em; h-e-a-p catch 'em."

I head up to check out the alcove. Suddenly, a whirlwind comes in and spreads the fire among the dead willows and cedar debris, and soon there’s a blaze. The men scramble for the boats, grabbing whatever they can hold onto in the moment, and even then they end up with their clothes burned and hair singed, while Bradley gets his ears scorched. The cook grabs the mess kit and, as he jumps into a boat, he stumbles and falls, sending our cooking gear into the river. Our plates are gone; our spoons are gone; our knives and forks are gone. "Water catch 'em; h-e-a-p catch 'em."

When on the boats, the men are compelled to cut loose, as the flames, running out on the overhanging willows, are scorching them. Loose on the stream, they must go down, for the water is too swift to make headway against it. Just below is a rapid, filled with rocks. On the shoot, no channel explored, no signal to guide them! Just at this juncture I chance to see them, but have not yet discovered the fire, and the strange movements of the men fill me with astonishment. Down the rocks I clamber, and run to the bank. When I arrive they have landed. Then we all go back to the late camp to see if anything left behind can be saved. Some of the clothing and bedding taken out of the boats is found, also a few tin cups, basins, and a camp kettle; and this is all the mess-kit we now have. Yet we do just as well as ever.

When on the boats, the men have to cut loose because the flames spreading onto the overhanging willows are burning them. Once they’re loose on the stream, they have no choice but to drift down since the current is too strong to paddle against. Just below is a rapid filled with rocks. They’re headed into a stretch of water that hasn’t been explored and without any signals to guide them! At that moment, I catch sight of them, but I still haven’t spotted the fire, and the odd movements of the men surprise me. I scramble down the rocks and run to the bank. When I get there, they’ve already landed. Then we all head back to the camp we just left to see if there’s anything we can salvage. We find some clothes and bedding that were taken out of the boats, along with a few tin cups, basins, and a camp kettle; that’s all the cooking gear we have now. But we manage just fine.

June 17.--We run down to the mouth of Yampa River. This has been a chapter of disasters and toils, notwithstanding which the Canyon of Lodore was not devoid of scenic interest, even beyond the power

June 17.--We rush down to the mouth of Yampa River. This has been a chapter of disasters and struggles, yet the Canyon of Lodore still had scenic beauty, even beyond the力

164

AN ISOLATED HOUSE AT ZUÑI.

A remote house at Zuni.

THE CANYON OF LODOKE.

LODOKE CANYON.

165

of pen to tell. The roar of its waters was heard unceasingly from the hour we entered it until we landed here. No quiet in all that time. But its walls and cliffs, its peaks and crags, its amphitheaters and alcoves, tell a story of beauty and grandeur that I hear yet--and shall hear.

of pen to tell. The roar of its waters was heard nonstop from the moment we entered until we arrived here. No peace the whole time. But its walls and cliffs, its peaks and crags, its amphitheaters and alcoves, tell a story of beauty and greatness that I still hear—and will always hear.

The Canyon of Lodore is 20 3/4 miles in length. It starts abruptly at what we have called the Gate of Lodore, with walls nearly 2,000 feet high, and they are never lower than this until we reach Alcove Brook, about three miles above the foot. They are very irregular, standing in vertical or overhanging cliffs in places, terraced in others, or receding in steep slopes, and are broken by many side gulches and canyons. The highest point on the wall is at Dunn's Cliff, near Triplet Falls, where the rocks reach an altitude of 2,700 feet, but the peaks a little way back rise nearly 1,000 feet higher. Yellow pines, nut pines, firs, and cedars stand in extensive forests on the Uinta Mountains, and, clinging to the rocks and growing in the crevices, come down the walls to the water's edge from Flaming Gorge to Echo Park. The red sandstones are lichened. over; delicate mosses grow in the moist places, and ferns festoon the walls.

The Canyon of Lodore is 20 3/4 miles long. It starts abruptly at what we call the Gate of Lodore, with walls that are nearly 2,000 feet high, and they never drop lower than this until we reach Alcove Brook, about three miles from the bottom. The walls are very irregular, featuring vertical or overhanging cliffs in some areas, terraced sections in others, or steep slopes that recede, and are interrupted by many side gulches and canyons. The highest point on the wall is at Dunn's Cliff, near Triplet Falls, where the rocks rise to an altitude of 2,700 feet, but the peaks a little further back soar nearly 1,000 feet higher. Yellow pines, nut pines, firs, and cedars form extensive forests on the Uinta Mountains and cling to the rocks, growing in the crevices and reaching all the way down the walls to the water's edge from Flaming Gorge to Echo Park. The red sandstone is covered in lichens; delicate mosses thrive in the moist areas, and ferns drape down the walls.

166

AN ORAIBE COURT.

An Oraibe Court.

167

CHAPTER VIII.

CHAPTER 8.

FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF THE UINTA RIVER.

THE Yampa enters the Green from the east. At a point opposite its mouth the Green runs to the south, at the foot of a rock about 700 feet high and a mile long, and then turns sharply around the rock to the right and runs back in a northerly course parallel to its former direction for nearly another mile, thus having the opposite sides of a long, narrow rock for its bank. The tongue of rock so formed is a peninsular precipice with a mural escarpment along its whole course on the east, but broken down at places on the west.

THE Yampa flows into the Green from the east. Directly across from its mouth, the Green heads south at the base of a rock that’s about 700 feet high and a mile long, then sharply turns to the right around the rock and continues in a northern direction, parallel to its previous course for almost another mile, thus making the opposite sides of a long, narrow rock its banks. The resulting section of rock is a steep peninsula with a sheer cliff on its entire eastern side but worn down in places on the western side.

On the east side of the river, opposite the rock and below the Yampa, there is a little park, just large enough for a farm, already fenced with high walls of gray homogeneous sandstone. There are three river entrances to this park: one down the Yampa; one below, by coming up the Green; and another down the Green. There is also a land entrance down a lateral canyon. Elsewhere the park is inaccessible. Through this land entrance by the side canyon there is a trail made by Indian hunters, who come down here in certain seasons to kill mountain sheep. Great hollow domes are seen in the eastern side of the rock, against which the Green sweeps; willows border the river; clumps of box-elder are seen; and a few cottonwoods stand at the lower end. Standing opposite the rock, our words are repeated with startling clearness, but in a soft, mellow tone, that transforms them into magical music. Scarcely can one believe it is the echo of his own voice. In some places two or three echoes come back; in other places they repeat themselves, passing back and forth across the river between this rock and the eastern wall. To hear these repeated echoes well, we must shout. Some of the party aver that ten or twelve repetitions can be heard. To

On the east side of the river, across from the rock and below the Yampa, there's a small park, just big enough for a farm, already surrounded by high walls of gray sandstone. There are three river access points to this park: one down the Yampa, one below by coming up the Green, and another down the Green. There's also a land entrance through a side canyon. The rest of the park is hard to reach. Through this land entrance by the side canyon, there's a trail made by Native American hunters who come here during certain seasons to hunt mountain sheep. Huge hollow domes can be seen on the eastern side of the rock, where the Green flows; willows line the river; clusters of box elder are visible, and a few cottonwoods are located at the lower end. Standing across from the rock, our voices echo back with surprising clarity, but in a soft, rich tone that turns them into enchanting music. It's hard to believe it's the echo of our own voices. In some spots, two or three echoes come back; in other areas, they bounce back and forth across the river between this rock and the eastern wall. To really hear these repeated echoes, we have to shout. Some people in the group claim that you can hear ten or twelve repetitions.

168 8 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

me, they seem rapidly to diminish and merge by multiplicity, like telegraph poles on an outstretched plain. I have observed the same phenomenon once before in the cliffs near Long's Peak, and am pleased to meet with it again.

me, they seem to quickly fade and blend together, like telegraph poles on a wide-open plain. I've seen this same thing happen before in the cliffs near Long's Peak, and I'm glad to encounter it again.

During the afternoon Bradley and I climb some cliffs to the north. Mountain sheep are seen above us, and they stand out on the rocks and eye us intently, not seeming to move. Their color is much like that of the gray sandstone beneath them, and, immovable as they are, they appear like carved forms. Now a fine ram beats the rock with his fore foot, and, wheeling around, they all bound away together, leaping over rocks and chasms and climbing walls where no man can follow, and this with an ease and grace most wonderful. At night we return to our camp under the box-elders by the river side. Here we are to spend two or three days, making a series of astronomic observations for latitude and longitude.

In the afternoon, Bradley and I climb some cliffs to the north. Mountain sheep are visible above us, standing out against the rocks and watching us closely, seemingly motionless. Their color is similar to the gray sandstone below them, and as still as they are, they look like carved statues. Suddenly, a majestic ram strikes the rock with his front foot, and then, turning around, they all leap away together, jumping over rocks and gaps and scaling walls that no human can follow, moving with incredible ease and grace. At night, we head back to our camp under the box elders by the river. We’ll be staying here for two or three days to conduct a series of astronomical observations for latitude and longitude.

June 18.--We have named the long peninsular rock on the other side Echo Rock. Desiring to climb it, Bradley and I take the little boat and pull up stream as far as possible, for it cannot be climbed directly opposite. We land on a talus of rocks at the upper end in order to reach a place where it seems practicable to make the ascent; but we find we must go still farther up the river. So we scramble along, until we reach a place where the river sweeps against the wall. Here we find a shelf along which we can pass, and now are ready for the climb.

June 18.-- We’ve named the long rocky peninsula across the way Echo Rock. Wanting to climb it, Bradley and I take the little boat and paddle upstream as far as we can, since it’s not possible to climb it directly from the front. We land on a pile of rocks at the top end to find a spot that seems easier to ascend, but we discover we need to go even further up the river. So we scramble along until we get to a place where the river rushes against the wall. Here, we find a ledge we can walk along, and now we are ready for the climb.

We start up a gulch; then pass to the left on a bench along the wall; then up again over broken rocks; then we reach more benches, along which we walk, until we find more broken rocks and crevices, by which we climb; still up, until we have ascended 600 or 800 feet, when we are met by a sheer precipice. Looking about, we find a place where it seems possible to climb. I go ahead; Bradley hands the barometer to me, and follows. So we proceed, stage by stage, until we are nearly to the summit. Here, by making a spring, I gain a foothold in a little crevice, and grasp an angle of the rock overhead. I find I can get up no farther and cannot step back, for I dare not let go with my hand and cannot reach foothold below without. I call to Bradley for help. He finds a way by which he can get to the top of the

We start up a narrow canyon; then head left along a ledge against the wall; then climb again over some broken rocks; then we reach more ledges, where we walk until we encounter more broken rocks and gaps, which we use to climb; still going up, until we've ascended 600 or 800 feet, when we're faced with a sheer cliff. Looking around, we spot a spot that looks climbable. I go first; Bradley hands me the barometer and follows. We continue, step by step, until we're almost at the top. Here, by jumping, I find a foothold in a small crevice and grab onto a ledge of the rock above. I realize I can't climb any higher and can't step back, since I'm afraid to let go with my hand and can't reach a foothold below without it. I call out to Bradley for help. He finds a way to get to the top of the

FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER.

169

rock over my head, but cannot reach me. Then he looks around for some stick or limb of a tree, but finds none. Then he suggests that he would better help me with the barometer case, but I fear I cannot hold on to it. The moment is critical. Standing on my toes, my muscles begin to tremble. It is sixty or eighty feet to the foot of the precipice. If I lose my hold I shall fall to the bottom and then perhaps roll over the bench and tumble still farther down the cliff. At this instant it occurs to Bradley to take off his drawers, which he does, and swings them down to me. I hug close to the rock, let go with my hand, seize the dangling legs, and with his assistance am enabled to gain the top.

rock over my head, but can't reach me. Then he looks around for a stick or tree branch, but finds nothing. Next, he suggests that he should help me with the barometer case, but I'm worried I can't hold on to it. The moment is critical. Standing on my toes, my muscles start to shake. It's sixty or eighty feet to the bottom of the cliff. If I lose my grip, I’ll fall and maybe roll over the ledge, tumbling down the cliff. At that moment, Bradley decides to take off his underwear, which he does, and swings them down to me. I press myself against the rock, let go with one hand, grab the dangling legs, and with his help, I'm able to pull myself up to the top.

Then we walk out on the peninsular rock, make the necessary observations for determining its altitude above camp, and return, finding an easy way down.

Then we walk out onto the peninsula rock, take the necessary measurements to determine its height above the camp, and come back, finding a simple route down.

June 19.--To-day, Howland, Bradley, and I take the "Emma Dean" and start up the Yampa River. The stream is much swollen, the current swift, and we are able to make but slow progress against it. The canyon in this part of the course of the Yampa is cut through light gray sandstone. The river is very winding, and the swifter water is usually

June 19.--Today, Howland, Bradley, and I are taking the "Emma Dean" to start our journey up the Yampa River. The water is quite high, the current is fast, and we're making slow progress against it. In this section of the Yampa, the canyon is carved through light gray sandstone. The river twists a lot, and the faster water is usually

THE RESCUE.

170

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

found on the outside of the curve, sweeping against vertical cliffs often a thousand feet high. In the center of these curves, in many places, the rock above overhangs the river. On the opposite side the walls are broken, craggy, and sloping, and occasionally side canyons enter. When we have rowed until we are quite tired we stop and take advantage of one of these broken places to climb out of the canyon. When above, we can look up the Yampa for a distance of several miles. From the summit of the immediate walls of the canyon the rocks rise gently back for a distance of a mile or two, having the appearance of a valley with an irregular and rounded sandstone floor and in the

found on the outside of the curve, sweeping against vertical cliffs that are often a thousand feet high. In the center of these curves, in many places, the rock above overhangs the river. On the opposite side, the walls are rough, jagged, and sloping, with occasional side canyons. After rowing until we're pretty tired, we stop and take advantage of one of these rugged spots to climb out of the canyon. Once we’re up, we can look up the Yampa for several miles. From the tops of the immediate canyon walls, the rocks rise gradually back for a mile or two, looking like a valley with an uneven and rounded sandstone floor, and in the

ECHO PARK.

Echo Park.

center a deep gorge, which is the canyon. The rim of this valley on the north is from 2,500 to 3,000 feet above the river; on the south it is not so high. A number of peaks stand on this northern rim, the highest of which has received the name Mount Dawes.

center a deep gorge, which is the canyon. The edge of this valley on the north is between 2,500 and 3,000 feet above the river; on the south, it's not as high. Several peaks are located on this northern edge, with the tallest being named Mount Dawes.

Late in the afternoon we descend to our boat and return to camp in Echo Park, gliding down in twenty minutes on the rapid river, a distance of four or five miles, which was made up stream only by several hours' hard rowing in the morning.

Late in the afternoon, we head down to our boat and make our way back to camp in Echo Park, smoothly gliding down the fast river in twenty minutes over a distance of four or five miles, a journey that took several hours of hard rowing upstream in the morning.

June 20.--This morning two of the men take me up the Yampa for a short distance, and I go out to climb. Having reached the top of

June 20.--This morning, two of the guys take me up the Yampa for a little while, and I head out to climb. Once I reach the top of

FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER.

171

the canyon, I walk over long stretches of naked sandstone, crossing gulches now and then, and by noon reach the summit of Mount Dawes. From this point I can look away to the north and see in the dim distance the Sweetwater and Wind River mountains, more than 100 miles away. To the northwest the Wasatch Mountains are in view, and peaks of the Uinta. To the east I can see the western slopes of the Rocky Mountains,

the canyon, I walk over long stretches of bare sandstone, crossing gullies now and then, and by noon reach the top of Mount Dawes. From this point, I can look to the north and see in the far distance the Sweetwater and Wind River mountains, more than 100 miles away. To the northwest, the Wasatch Mountains are visible, along with the peaks of the Uinta. To the east, I can see the western slopes of the Rocky Mountains,

FRAGMENT OF WALL, ZUÑI.

Fragment of wall, Zuni.

more than 150 miles distant. The air is singularly clear to-day; mountains and buttes stand in sharp outline, valleys stretch out in perspective, and I can look down into the deep canyon gorges and see gleaming waters.

more than 150 miles away. The air is incredibly clear today; mountains and buttes stand out sharply, valleys extend in the distance, and I can look down into the deep canyon gorges and see shining waters.

Descending, I cross to a ridge near the brink of the Canyon of Lodore, the highest point of which is nearly as high as the last mentioned mountain. Late in the afternoon I stand on this elevated

Descending, I walk over to a ridge near the edge of the Canyon of Lodore, which is almost as high as the previously mentioned mountain. Late in the afternoon, I stand on this high spot.

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CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

point and discover a monument that has evidently been built by human hands. A few plants are growing in the joints between the rocks, and all are lichened over to a greater or less extent, giving evidence

point and discover a monument that has clearly been built by human hands. A few plants are growing in the cracks between the rocks, and all are covered in lichen to varying degrees, showing evidence

172

KIVAS OF SHUMOPAVI.

Kivas of Shumopavi.

that the pile was built a long time ago. This line of peaks, the eastern extension of the Uinta Mountains, has received the name of Sierra Escalante, in honor of a Spanish priest who traveled in this region of country nearly a century ago. Perchance the reverend father built this monument.

that the pile was built a long time ago. This line of peaks, the eastern extension of the Uinta Mountains, is called Sierra Escalante, named after a Spanish priest who traveled in this area nearly a century ago. Perhaps the reverend father built this monument.

Now I return to the river and discharge my gun, as a signal for the boat to come and take me down to camp. While we have been in the park the men have succeeded in catching a number of fish, and we have an abundant supply. This is a delightful addition to our menu.

Now I go back to the river and fire my gun as a signal for the boat to come and take me back to camp. While we've been in the park, the guys have managed to catch a bunch of fish, so we have plenty. This is a great addition to our menu.

June 21.-- We float around the long rock and enter another canyon. The walls are high and vertical, the canyon is narrow, and the river

June 21.-- We drift around the long rock and enter another canyon. The walls are steep and straight up, the canyon is tight, and the river

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173

fills the whole space below, so that there is no landing-place at the foot of the cliff. The Green is greatly increased by the Yampa, and we now have a much larger river. All this volume of water, confined, as it is, in a narrow channel and rushing with great velocity, is set eddying and spinning in whirlpools by projecting rocks and short curves, and the waters waltz their way through the canyon, making their own rippling, rushing, roaring music. The canyon is much narrower than any we have seen. We manage our boats with difficulty. They spin about from side to side and we know not where we are going, and find it impossible to keep them headed down the stream. At first this causes us great alarm, but we soon find there is little danger, and that there is a general movement or progression down the river, to which this whirling is but an adjunct--that it is the merry mood

fills the entire space below, so there’s no place to land at the bottom of the cliff. The Green River has greatly expanded thanks to the Yampa, and now we have a much larger river. This volume of water, confined in a narrow channel and flowing with incredible speed, creates eddies and spins into whirlpools caused by jutting rocks and sharp bends, while the waters dance their way through the canyon, producing their own playful, rushing, roaring music. The canyon is much narrower than any we’ve seen before. We struggle to manage our boats. They swing side to side, and we can’t tell where we’re headed, making it hard to keep them pointed downstream. At first, this really scares us, but we soon realize there’s not much danger, and that there’s a general flow or movement down the river—the spinning is just a part of the lively mood.

GENERAL VTEW OF AWATUBI.

GENERAL VIEW OF AWATUBI.

of the river to dance through this deep, dark gorge, and right gaily do we join in the sport.

of the river to flow through this deep, dark gorge, and we happily join in the fun.

But soon our revel is interrupted by a cataract; its roaring command is heeded by all our power at the oars, and we pull against the whirling current. The "Emma Dean" is brought up against a cliff

But soon our celebration is interrupted by a waterfall; its roaring command is heeded by all our strength at the oars, and we pull against the swirling current. The "Emma Dean" is brought up against a cliff.

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Canyons of the Colorado.

about 50 feet above the brink of the fall. By vigorously plying the oars on the side opposite the wall, as if to pull up stream, we can hold her against the rock. The boats behind are signaled to land where they can. The "Maid of the Canyon" is pulled to the left wall, and, by constant rowing, they can hold her also. The "Sister" is run into an alcove on the right, where an eddy is in a dance, and in this she joins. Now my little boat is held against the wall only by the utmost exertion, and it is impossible to make headway against the current. On examination, I find a horizontal crevice in the rock, about 10 feet above the water and a boat's length below us; so we let her down to that point. One of the men clambers into the crevice, into which he can just crawl; we toss him the line, which he makes fast in the rocks, and now our boat is tied up. Then I follow into the crevice and we crawl along up stream a distance of 50 feet or more, and find a broken place where we can climb about 50 feet higher. Here we stand on a shelf that passes along down stream to a point above the falls, where it is broken down, and a pile of rocks, over which we can descend to the river, is lying against the foot of the cliff.

about 50 feet above the edge of the fall. By vigorously rowing on the side opposite the wall, as if trying to pull upstream, we can hold the boat against the rock. The boats behind us are signaled to land wherever they can. The "Maid of the Canyon" is pulled to the left wall, and with constant rowing, they manage to hold her too. The "Sister" is steered into an alcove on the right, where there’s a swirling eddy, and she joins in there. Now my little boat is only held against the wall by our greatest effort, and it’s impossible to make progress against the current. Upon closer inspection, I spot a horizontal crevice in the rock, about 10 feet above the water and a boat’s length below us; so we lower the boat to that point. One of the men climbs into the crevice, where he can just fit; we toss him the line, which he secures to the rocks, and now our boat is moored. Then I follow him into the crevice, and we crawl upstream for about 50 feet or more, finding a broken section where we can climb about 50 feet higher. Here we stand on a ledge that extends downstream to a point above the falls, where it breaks away, and a pile of rocks leading down to the river rests against the base of the cliff.

It has been mentioned that one of the boats is on the other side. I signal for the men to pull her up alongside of the wall, but it cannot be done; then to cross. This they do, gaining the wall on our side just above where the "Emma Dean" is tied.

It’s been pointed out that one of the boats is on the other side. I signal for the men to bring it alongside the wall, but that doesn't work; so I tell them to cross. They do, reaching the wall on our side just above where the "Emma Dean" is tied.

The third boat is out of sight, whirling in the eddy of a recess. Looking about, I find another horizontal crevice, along which I crawl to a point just over the water where this boat is lying, and, calling loud and long, I finally succeed in making the crew understand that I want them to bring the boat down, hugging the wall. This they accomplish by taking advantage of every crevice and knob on the face of the cliff, so that we have the three boats together at a point a few yards above the falls. Now, by passing a line up on the shelf, the boats can be let down to the broken rocks below. This we do, and, making a short portage, our troubles here are over.

The third boat is out of sight, spinning in the current of a small recess. Looking around, I spot another horizontal crack, which I crawl along until I reach a spot just above the water where this boat is resting. I shout loudly and for a long time until I finally get the crew to understand that I want them to bring the boat down against the wall. They manage this by using every crack and bump on the cliff face, so we gather all three boats a few yards above the waterfall. Now, by passing a line up onto the ledge, we can lower the boats down to the rocky area below. We do that, and after a short portage, our troubles here are over.

Below the falls the canyon is wider, and there is more or less space between the river and the walls; but the stream, though wide, is rapid, and rolls at a fearful rate among the rocks. We proceed with great caution, and run the large boats wholly by signal.

Below the falls, the canyon opens up, and there’s more space between the river and the walls; however, the water, although wide, is fast-moving and rushes frighteningly among the rocks. We move very carefully and navigate the large boats entirely by signal.

FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA EIVER.

FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER.

175

At night we camp at the mouth of a small creek, which affords us a good supper of trout. In camp to-night we discuss the propriety

At night we set up camp at the entrance of a small creek, which gives us a nice dinner of trout. While camping tonight, we talk about whether it’s appropriate

SWALLOW CAVE.

of several different names for this canyon. At the falls encountered at noon its characteristics change suddenly. Above, it is very narrow, and the walls are almost vertical; below, the canyon is much wider

of several different names for this canyon. At the falls encountered at noon, its characteristics change suddenly. Above, it is very narrow, and the walls are almost vertical; below, the canyon is much wider

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Canyons of the Colorado

and more flaring, and high up on the sides crags, pinnacles, and towers are seen. A number of wild and narrow side canyons enter, and the walls are much broken. After many suggestions our choice rests between two names, Whirlpool Canyon and Craggy Canyon, neither of which is strictly appropriate for both parts of it; so we leave the discussion at this point, with the understanding that it is best, before finally deciding on a name, to wait until we see what the character of the canyon is below.

and more dramatic, with high crags, peaks, and towers visible on the sides. Several wild and narrow side canyons join in, and the walls are quite jagged. After many suggestions, we narrow it down to two names: Whirlpool Canyon and Craggy Canyon, neither of which fits both sections perfectly; so we’ll pause the discussion here, with the agreement that it’s best to hold off on a final name until we see what the canyon is like further down.

June 22.--Still making short portages and letting down with lines. While we are waiting for dinner to-day, I climb a point that gives me a good view of the river for two or three miles below, and I think we can make a long run. After dinner we start; the large boats are to follow in fifteen minutes and look out for the signal to land. Into the middle of the stream we row, and down the rapid river we glide, only making strokes enough with the oars to guide the boat. What a headlong ride it is! shooting past rocks and islands. I am soon filled with exhilaration only experienced before in riding a fleet horse over the outstretched prairie. One, two, three, four miles we go, rearing and plunging with the waves, until we wheel to the right into a beautiful park and land on an island, where we go into camp.

June 22.--We’re still making short portages and lowering ourselves down with lines. While we wait for dinner today, I climb a point that gives me a great view of the river for a couple of miles downstream, and I think we can make a long run. After dinner, we set off; the larger boats will follow in fifteen minutes and watch for the signal to land. We row into the middle of the stream and glide down the fast river, only paddling enough with the oars to steer the boat. What an exciting ride it is! We shoot past rocks and islands. I soon feel a rush of exhilaration I’ve only felt before when riding a sleek horse across the wide prairie. We travel one, two, three, four miles, rearing and plunging with the waves, until we turn right into a beautiful park and land on an island, where we set up camp.

An hour or two before sunset I cross to the mainland and climb a point of rocks where I can overlook the park and its surroundings. On the east it is bounded by a high mountain ridge. A semicircle of naked hills bounds it on the north, west, and south.

An hour or two before sunset, I head over to the mainland and climb a rocky outcrop where I can see the park and its surroundings. To the east, it's bordered by a tall mountain range. A semicircle of bare hills surrounds it to the north, west, and south.

The broad, deep river meanders through the park, interrupted by many wooded islands; so I name it Island Park, and decide to call the canyon above, Whirlpool Canyon.

The wide, deep river winds through the park, interrupted by several wooded islands; so I call it Island Park, and I decide to name the canyon above it Whirlpool Canyon.

June 23.--We remain in camp to-day to repair our boats, which have had hard knocks and are leaking. Two of the men go out with the barometer to climb the cliff at the foot of Whirlpool Canyon and measure the walls; another goes on the mountain to hunt; and Bradley and I spend the day among the rocks, studying an interesting geologic fold and collecting fossils. Late in the afternoon the hunter returns and brings with him a fine, fat deer; so we give his name to the mountain--Mount Hawkins. Just before night we move camp to the lower end of the park, floating down the river about four miles.

June 23.--We’re staying in camp today to fix our boats, which have taken a beating and are leaking. Two of the guys head out with the barometer to climb the cliff at the base of Whirlpool Canyon and measure the walls; another goes up the mountain to hunt; and Bradley and I spend the day among the rocks, studying an interesting geologic fold and collecting fossils. Late in the afternoon, the hunter comes back with a nice, plump deer, so we name the mountain after him—Mount Hawkins. Just before dark, we move camp to the lower end of the park, floating down the river for about four miles.

PROM ECHO PAEK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA KIVEK.

PROM ECHO PEAK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER.

177

June 24.--Bradley and I start early to climb the mountain ridge to the east, and find its summit to be nearly 3,000 feet above camp. It has required some labor to scale it; but on its top, what a view! There is a long spur running out from the Uinta Mountains toward the south, and the river runs lengthwise through it. Coming down Lodore

June 24.--Bradley and I set out early to climb the mountain ridge to the east, and we find its peak is nearly 3,000 feet above camp. It took some effort to reach the top, but the view is incredible! There’s a long ridge extending from the Uinta Mountains to the south, and the river flows along it. Coming down Lodore

VIEW OF SIIUMOPAVI.

and Whirlpool canyons, we cut through the southern slope of the Uinta Mountains; and the lower end of this latter canyon runs into the spur, but, instead of splitting it the whole length, the river wheels to the right at the foot of Whirlpool Canyon in a great curve to the northwest through Island Park. At the lower end of the park, the river

and Whirlpool canyons, we cut through the southern slope of the Uinta Mountains; and the lower end of this canyon meets the spur, but instead of dividing it completely, the river turns right at the foot of Whirlpool Canyon in a big curve to the northwest through Island Park. At the lower end of the park, the river

178

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

RUINS.

turns again to the southeast and cuts into the mountain to its center and then makes a detour to the southwest, splitting the mountain ridge for a distance of six miles nearly to its foot, and then turns out of it to the left. All this we can see where we stand on the summit of Mount Hawkins, and so we name the gorge below, Split Mountain Canyon.

turns again to the southeast and cuts into the mountain to its center and then takes a detour to the southwest, splitting the mountain ridge for about six miles nearly to its base, and then veers out of it to the left. All of this is visible from where we stand on the summit of Mount Hawkins, so we name the gorge below Split Mountain Canyon.

We are standing 3,000 feet above the waters, which are troubled with billows and are white with foam. The walls are set with crags and peaks and buttressed towers and overhanging domes. Turning to the right, the park is below us, its island groves reflected by the deep, quiet waters. Rich meadows stretch out on either hand to the verge of a sloping plain that comes down from the distant mountains. These plains are of almost naked rock, in strange contrast to the meadows,--blue and lilac colored rocks, buff and pink, vermilion and brown,

We are standing 3,000 feet above the waters, which are churning with waves and covered in foam. The walls are lined with jagged cliffs, peaks, sturdy towers, and overhanging domes. Turning to the right, we can see the park below us, with its island groves mirrored in the calm, deep waters. Lush meadows stretch out on either side to the edge of a sloping plain that descends from the distant mountains. These plains consist of nearly bare rock, creating a strange contrast to the meadows—rocks in shades of blue and lilac, buff and pink, vermilion and brown.

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179

and all these colors clear and bright. A dozen little creeks, dry the greater part of the year, run down through the half circle of exposed formations, radiating from the island center to the rim of the basin. Each creek has its system of side streams and each side stream has its system of laterals, and again these are divided; so that this outstretched slope of rock is elaborately embossed. Beds of different-colored formations run in parallel bands on either side. The perspective, modified by the undulations, gives the bands a waved appearance, and the high colors gleam in the midday sun with the luster of satin. We are tempted to call this Rainbow Park. Away beyond these beds are the Uinta and Wasatch mountains with their pine forests and snow fields and naked peaks. Now we turn to the right and look up Whirlpool Canyon, a deep gorge with a river at the bottom--a gloomy chasm, where mad waves roar; but at this distance and altitude the river is but a rippling brook, and the chasm a narrow cleft. The top of the mountain on which we stand is a broad, grassy table, and a herd

and all these colors are clear and bright. A dozen little creeks, dry for most of the year, run down through the half circle of exposed formations, radiating from the center of the island to the rim of the basin. Each creek has its own side streams, and each side stream has its own smaller branches, which are again divided; so this expansive slope of rock is intricately detailed. Beds of different-colored formations run in parallel bands on either side. The perspective, shaped by the undulations, gives the bands a wavy appearance, and the bright colors shine in the midday sun with a satin-like sheen. It makes us want to call this Rainbow Park. Far beyond these layers are the Uinta and Wasatch mountains with their pine forests, snowfields, and bare peaks. Now we turn to the right and look up Whirlpool Canyon, a deep gorge with a river at the bottom—a dark chasm where wild waves crash; but from this distance and height, the river looks like a gentle brook, and the chasm appears as a narrow cleft. The top of the mountain we’re standing on is a broad, grassy plateau, and a herd

RUINS.

180 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

of deer are feeding in the distance. Walking over to the southeast, we look down into the valley of White River, and beyond that see the far-distant Rocky Mountains, in mellow, perspective haze, through which snow fields shine.

of deer are grazing in the distance. Heading southeast, we look down into the valley of White River, and beyond that, we see the distant Rocky Mountains, shrouded in a soft haze, with snowfields glimmering through it.

June 25.--This morning we enter Split Mountain Canyon, sailing in

through a broad, flaring, brilliant gateway. We run two or three rapids, after they have been carefully examined. Then we have a series of six or eight, over which we are compelled to pass by letting the boats down with lines. This occupies the entire day, and we camp at night at the mouth of a great cave. The cave is at the foot of one of these rapids, and the waves dash in nearly to its end. We can pass along a little shelf at the side until we reach the back part. Swallows have built their nests in the ceiling, and they wheel in, chattering and scolding at our intrusion; but their clamor is almost drowned by the noise of the waters. Looking out of the cave, we can see, far up the river, a line of crags standing sentinel on either side, and Mount Hawkins in the distance.

through a wide, bright gateway. We navigate two or three rapids after checking them carefully. Then we encounter a series of six or eight rapids, which we have to lower the boats through using ropes. This takes up the whole day, and we camp at night at the entrance of a large cave. The cave is at the foot of one of the rapids, and the waves crash in almost to the back. We can walk along a ledge on the side until we reach the rear. Swallows have built their nests in the ceiling, and they swoop in, chattering and scolding at our presence; but their noise is nearly drowned out by the sound of the rushing water. Looking out from the cave, we can see, far up the river, a line of cliffs acting as sentinels on either side, with Mount Hawkins in the distance.

June 26.--The forenoon is spent in getting our large boats over the rapids. This afternoon we find three falls in close succession. We carry our rations over the rocks and let our boats shoot over the falls, checking and bringing them to land with lines in the eddies below. At three o'clock we are all aboard again. Down the river we are carried by the swift waters at great speed, sheering around a rock now and then with a timely stroke or two of the oars. At one point the river turns from left to right, in a direction at right angles to the canyon, in a long chute and strikes the right, where its waters are heaped up in great billows that tumble back in breakers. We glide into the chute before we see the danger, and it is too late to stop. Two or three hard strokes are given on the right and we pause for an instant, expecting to be dashed against the rock. But the bow of the boat leaps high on a great wave, the rebounding waters hurl us back, and the peril is past. The next moment the other boats are hurriedly signaled to land on the left. Accomplishing this, the men walk along the shore, holding the boats near the bank, and let them drift around. Starting again, we soon debouch into a beautiful valley, glide down its length for 10 miles, and camp under a grand

June 26.--We spend the morning getting our large boats over the rapids. This afternoon, we encounter three waterfalls in quick succession. We carry our supplies over the rocks and let our boats rush over the falls, using lines to steer them to shore in the eddies below. By three o'clock, we're all back on board. The river carries us downstream quickly, occasionally dodging a rock with a well-timed stroke or two of the oars. At one point, the river curves sharply from left to right, creating a long chute, and hits the right bank, where the waters form large waves that crash back into foamy breaks. We enter the chute before we notice the danger, and it’s too late to stop. We make a few hard strokes to the right and pause for a moment, bracing for impact with the rock. But the bow of the boat rises high on a big wave, the rebound pushes us back, and the danger passes. In the next moment, we signal the other boats to quickly land on the left. After successfully doing so, the crew walks along the shore, keeping the boats close to the bank, and allows them to drift around. Once we’re ready to go again, we soon glide into a lovely valley, moving down its length for 10 miles, and set up camp beneath a stunning

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181

old cottonwood. This is evidently a frequent resort for Indians. Tent poles are lying about, and the dead embers of late camp fires are seen. On the plains to the left, antelope are feeding. Now and then a wolf is seen, and after dark they make the air resound with their howling. June 27.--Now our way is along a gently flowing river, beset with

old cottonwood. This is clearly a popular spot for Native Americans. Tent poles are scattered around, and the remains of recent campfires can be seen. On the plains to the left, antelope are grazing. Occasionally, a wolf appears, and after dark, their howling fills the air. June 27.--Now our path follows a gently flowing river, surrounded by

INDIAN LODGE IN THE UINTA VALLEY.

many islands; groves are seen on either side, and natural meadows, where herds of antelope are feeding. Here and there we have views of the distant mountains on the right. During the afternoon we make a long detour to the west and return again to a point not more than half a mile from where we started at noon, and here we camp for the night under a high bluff. June 28.--To-day the scenery on either side of the river is much

many islands; groves appear on both sides, along with natural meadows where herds of antelope graze. Occasionally, we catch glimpses of the distant mountains on the right. In the afternoon, we take a long detour to the west and end up back at a spot not more than half a mile from where we began at noon, and here we set up camp for the night under a high bluff. June 28.--Today, the scenery on both sides of the river is much

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Colorado Canyons.

the same as that of yesterday, except that two or three lakes are discovered, lying in the valley to the west. After dinner we run but a few minutes when we discover the mouth of the Uinta, a river coming in from the west. Up the valley of this stream about 40 miles the reservation of the Uinta Indians is situated. We propose to go there and see if we can replenish our mess-kit, and perhaps send letters to friends. We also desire to establish an astronomic station here; and hence this will be our stopping place for several days.

the same as yesterday, except that we found two or three lakes in the valley to the west. After dinner, we only travel for a few minutes before we find the mouth of the Uinta, a river coming in from the west. About 40 miles up the valley of this river is the reservation of the Uinta Indians. We plan to go there to see if we can restock our mess kit and maybe send letters to friends. We also want to set up an astronomical station here, so this will be our stop for several days.

Some years ago Captain Berthoud surveyed a stage route from Salt Lake City to Denver, and this is the place where he crossed the Green River. His party was encamped here for some time, constructing a ferry boat and opening a road.

Some years ago, Captain Berthoud explored a route from Salt Lake City to Denver, and this is where he crossed the Green River. His group camped here for a while, building a ferry boat and clearing a road.

A little above the mouth of the Uinta, on the west side of the Green, there is a lake of several thousand acres. We carry our boat across the divide between this and the river, have a row on its quiet waters, and succeed in shooting several ducks.

A bit above the mouth of the Uinta, on the west side of the Green, there’s a lake covering several thousand acres. We carry our boat over the divide between the lake and the river, enjoy a row on its calm waters, and manage to shoot a few ducks.

June 29.--A mile and three quarters from here is the junction of the White River with the Green. The White has its source far to the east in the Rocky Mountains. This morning I cross the Green and go over into the valley of the White and extend my walk several miles along its winding way, until at last I come in sight of some strangely carved rocks, named by General Hughes, in his journal, "Goblin City." Our last winter's camp was situated a hundred miles above the point reached to-day. The course of the river, for much of the distance, is through canyons; but at some places valleys are found. Excepting these little valleys, the region is one of great desolation: arid, almost treeless, with bluffs, hills, ledges of rock, and drifting sands. Along the course of the Green, however, from the foot of Split Mountain Canyon to a point some distance below the mouth of the Uinta, there are many groves of cottonwood, natural meadows, and rich lands. This arable belt extends some distance up the White River on the east and the Uinta on the west, and the time must soon come when settlers will penetrate this country and make homes.

June 29.--A mile and three-quarters from here is where the White River merges with the Green. The White River starts far to the east in the Rocky Mountains. This morning, I crossed the Green and moved into the White River valley, walking several miles along its winding path until I finally spotted some oddly shaped rocks, which General Hughes called "Goblin City" in his journal. Our last winter camp was a hundred miles upstream from where I am today. For much of the way, the river flows through canyons, but there are also areas with valleys. Aside from these small valleys, the region is very desolate: dry, nearly treeless, with cliffs, hills, rocky ledges, and shifting sands. However, along the Green from the base of Split Mountain Canyon to a point further downstream of the Uinta, there are many groves of cottonwood, natural meadows, and fertile land. This farmable area stretches some distance up the White River on the east and the Uinta on the west, and soon, settlers will make their way into this region and establish homes.

June 30.--We have a row up the Uinta to-day, but are not able to make much headway against the swift current, and hence conclude we must walk all the way to the agency.

June 30.--We’re trying to paddle up the Uinta today, but we’re not making much progress against the fast current, so we’ve decided we need to walk all the way to the agency.

FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER.

183

July 1.--Two days have been employed in obtaining the local time, taking observations for latitude and longitude, and making excursions into the adjacent country. This morning, with two of the men, I start for the agency. It is a toilsome walk, 20 miles of the distance being across a sand desert. Occasionally we have to wade the river, crossing it back and forth. Toward evening we cross several beautiful streams,

July 1.--We've spent the last two days figuring out the local time, taking measurements for latitude and longitude, and exploring the nearby area. This morning, with two of the crew, I'm setting out for the agency. It's a tough trek, with 20 miles of it through a sand desert. Every so often, we have to wade through the river, crossing it back and forth. By evening, we cross several gorgeous streams,

WARRIOR AND BRIDE.

Fighter and Bride.

tributaries of the Uinta, and pass through pine groves and meadows, arriving at the reservation just at dusk. Captain Dodds, the agent, is away, having gone to Salt Lake City, but his assistants receive us very kindly. It is rather pleasant to see a house once more, and some evidences of civilization, even if it is on an Indian reservation several days' ride from the nearest home of the white man. July 2.--I go this morning to visit Tsauwiat. This old chief is

tributaries of the Uinta, and we pass through pine groves and meadows, arriving at the reservation just as it gets dark. Captain Dodds, the agent, is away in Salt Lake City, but his assistants greet us warmly. It feels nice to see a house again and some signs of civilization, even if it is on an Indian reservation several days' ride from the closest white settlement. July 2.--I’m going this morning to visit Tsauwiat. This old chief is

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CANYONS OF COLORADO.

but the wreck of a man, and no longer has influence. Looking at him one can scarcely realize that he is a man. His skin is shrunken, wrinkled, and dry, and seems to cover no more than a form of bones. He is said to be more than 100 years old. I talk a little with him, but his conversation is incoherent, though he seems to take pride in showing me some medals that must have been given him many years ago. He has a pipe which he says he has used a long time. I offer to exchange with him, and he seems to be glad to accept; so I add another to my collection of pipes. His wife, "The Bishop," as she is called, is a very garrulous old woman; she exerts a great influence, and is much revered. She is the only Indian woman I have known to occupy a place in the council ring. She seems very much younger than her husband, and, though wrinkled and ugly, is still vigorous. She has much to say to me concerning the condition of the people, and seems very anxious that they should learn to cultivate the soil, own farms, and live like white men. After talking a couple of hours with these old people, I go to see the farms. They are situated in a very beautiful district, where many fine streams of water meander across alluvial plains and meadows. These creeks have a considerable fall, and it is easy to take their waters out above and overflow the lands with them.

but the ruined man, who no longer has any influence. Looking at him, it's hard to believe he's a person. His skin is shriveled, wrinkled, and dry, barely covering a skeletal frame. He's said to be over 100 years old. I chat a bit with him, but his speech is jumbled, although he takes some pride in showing me a few medals that must have been given to him long ago. He has a pipe that he claims to have used for a long time. I offer to trade with him, and he seems happy to agree, so I add another pipe to my collection. His wife, "The Bishop," as she's called, is a very talkative old woman; she wields considerable influence and is highly respected. She's the only Indian woman I've met who has a place in the council ring. She appears much younger than her husband and, despite being wrinkled and not conventionally attractive, is still full of life. She has a lot to say about the condition of the people and seems very eager for them to learn to farm the land, own their own properties, and live like white people. After spending a couple of hours with these elderly folks, I head out to check the farms. They're located in a stunning area, where numerous beautiful streams flow through alluvial plains and meadows. These creeks have a significant drop in elevation, making it easy to divert their waters above and irrigate the surrounding land.

It will be remembered that irrigation is necessary in this dry climate to successful farming. Quite a number of Indians have each a patch of ground of two or three acres, on which they are raising wheat, potatoes, turnips, pumpkins, melons, and other vegetables. Most of the crops are looking well, and it is rather surprising with what pride they show us that they are able to cultivate crops like white men. They are still occupying lodges, and refuse to build houses, assigning as a reason that when any one dies in a lodge it is always abandoned, and very often burned with all the effects of the deceased; and when houses have been built for them the houses have been treated in the same way. With their unclean habits, a fixed residence would doubtless be no pleasant place.

It’s important to note that irrigation is essential in this dry climate for successful farming. Many Native Americans have a small plot of land, about two or three acres, where they grow wheat, potatoes, turnips, pumpkins, melons, and other vegetables. Most of the crops look healthy, and it’s quite surprising how proudly they display their ability to cultivate like white people. They still live in lodges and refuse to build houses, explaining that when someone dies in a lodge, it’s always left behind and often burned along with the deceased's belongings. When houses have been built for them, those have also been treated the same way. Given their unsanitary habits, a permanent home would probably not be a pleasant place.

This beautiful valley has been the home of a people of a higher grade of civilization than the present Utes. Evidences of this are quite abundant; on our way here yesterday we discovered fragments

This beautiful valley has been the home of a people with a higher level of civilization than the current Utes. Evidence of this is quite plentiful; on our way here yesterday, we found fragments

FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. 185

of pottery in many places along the trail; and, wandering about the little farms to-day, I find the foundations of ancient houses, and mealing-stones that were not used by nomadic people, as they are too heavy to be transported by such tribes, and are deeply worn. The

of pottery in many places along the trail; and, wandering around the small farms today, I find the foundations of ancient houses and grinding stones that were not used by nomadic people, as they are too heavy to be moved by such tribes, and are deeply worn. The

OUR INTERPRETER AND HIS FAMILY.

Indians, seeing that I am interested in these matters, take pains to show me several other places where these evidences remain, and tell me that they know nothing about the people who formerly dwelt here. They further tell me that up in the canyon the rocks are covered with pictures.

Indians, noticing that I'm interested in these topics, make an effort to show me several other locations where these signs still exist, and they say that they don’t know anything about the people who used to live here. They also mention that up in the canyon, the rocks are covered with drawings.

July 5.--The last two days have been spent in studying the language

July 5.--I've spent the last two days studying the language.

186

HOUSE BUILDING AT ORAIBI.

House construction at Oraibi.

PROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. 187

of the Indians and in making collections of articles illustrating the state of arts among them.

of the Indigenous people and in gathering items that showcase the state of the arts among them.

Frank Goodman informs me this morning that he has concluded not to go on with the party, saying that he has seen danger enough. It will be remembered that he was one of the crew on the "No Name" when she was wrecked. As our boats are rather heavily loaded, I am content that he should leave, although he has been a faithful man.

Frank Goodman told me this morning that he has decided not to continue with the group, saying he's had enough danger. You may remember that he was part of the crew on the "No Name" when it was wrecked. Since our boats are quite heavily loaded, I'm okay with him leaving, even though he's been a loyal member.

We start early on our return to the boats, taking horses with us from the reservation, and two Indians, who are to bring the animals back.

We set out early on our way back to the boats, taking horses with us from the reservation, along with two Native Americans who will return the animals.

Whirlpool Canyon is 14 1/4 miles in length, the walls varying from 1,800 to 2,400 feet in height. The course of the river through Island Park is 9 miles. Split Mountain Canyon is 8 miles long. The highest crags on its walls reach an altitude above the river of from 2,500 to 2,700 feet. In these canyons cedars only are found on the walls.

Whirlpool Canyon is 14.25 miles long, with walls ranging from 1,800 to 2,400 feet high. The river flows through Island Park for 9 miles. Split Mountain Canyon is 8 miles long, and the highest peaks on its walls rise to an elevation of 2,500 to 2,700 feet above the river. In these canyons, only cedars grow on the walls.

The distance by river from the foot of Split Mountain Canyon to the mouth of the Uinta is 67 miles. The valley through which it runs is the home of many antelope, and we have adopted for it the Indian name Won'sits Yuav--Antelope Valley.

The distance by river from the base of Split Mountain Canyon to where it meets the Uinta is 67 miles. The valley it flows through is home to many antelope, and we have named it after the Indian name Won'sits Yuav—Antelope Valley.

188

GENERAL VIEW OF OJO CALIENTE.

Ojo Caliente Overview.

189

CHAPTER IX.

CHAPTER 9.

FROM THE MOUTH OF THE UINTA RIVER TO THE JUNCTION OF THE

GRAND AND GREEN.

LARGE AND ECO-FRIENDLY.

JULY 6.--An early start this morning. A short distance below the mouth of the Uinta we come to the head of a long island. Last winter a man named Johnson, a hunter and Indian trader, visited us at our camp in White River Valley. This man has an Indian wife, and, having no fixed home, usually travels with one of the Ute bands. He informed me that it was his intention to plant some corn, potatoes, and other vegetables on this island in the spring, and, knowing that we would pass it, invited us to stop and help ourselves, even if he should not be there; so we land and go out on the island. Looking about, we soon discover his garden, but it is in a sad condition, having received no care since it was planted. It is yet too early in the season for corn, but Hall suggests that potato tops are good greens, and, anxious for some change from our salt-meat fare, we gather a quantity and take them aboard. At noon we stop and cook our greens for dinner; but soon one after another of the party is taken sick; nausea first, and then severe vomiting, and we tumble around under the trees, groaning with pain. I feel a little alarmed, lest our poisoning be severe. Emetics are administered to those who are willing to take them, and about the middle of the afternoon we are all rid of the pain. Jack Sumner records in his diary that "potato tops are not good greens on the 6th day of July."

JULY 6.--We got an early start this morning. A short distance below the mouth of the Uinta, we reach the beginning of a long island. Last winter, a man named Johnson, who is a hunter and Indian trader, came to visit us at our camp in White River Valley. He has an Indian wife and doesn’t have a permanent home, usually traveling with one of the Ute bands. He told me that he planned to plant some corn, potatoes, and other vegetables on this island in the spring, and knowing we would be passing through, invited us to stop and help ourselves, even if he wasn’t around. So, we land and head out to the island. As we look around, we quickly find his garden, but it’s in poor shape, having received no attention since it was planted. It’s still too early in the season for corn, but Hall suggests that potato tops make for good greens, and eager for a break from our salt-meat diet, we gather a good amount and take them on board. At noon, we stop to cook our greens for dinner, but soon one after another in the group starts to feel sick; first nausea, then severe vomiting, and we end up groaning in pain under the trees. I feel a bit worried that we might have been poisoned. Emetics are given to those willing to take them, and by mid-afternoon, we’re all feeling better. Jack Sumner notes in his diary that "potato tops are not good greens on the 6th day of July."

This evening we enter another canyon, almost imperceptibly, as the walls rise very gently.

This evening we enter another canyon, almost without noticing, as the walls rise very gradually.

July 7.--We find quiet water to-day, the river sweeping in great and beautiful curves, the canyon walls steadily increasing in altitude. The escarpments formed by the cut edges of the rock are often vertical, sometimes terraced, and in some places the treads of the terraces

July 7.--Today, we come across calm water, with the river flowing in large, beautiful curves, and the canyon walls rising steadily higher. The cliffs made by the sharp edges of the rock are often vertical, sometimes stepped, and in some areas the flat sections of the terraces...

190

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

are sloping. In these quiet curves vast amphitheaters are formed, now in vertical rocks, now in steps.

are sloping. In these gentle curves, large amphitheaters are created, sometimes in vertical rocks, sometimes in steps.

The salient point of rock within the curve is usually broken down in a steep slope, and we stop occasionally to climb up at such a place, where on looking down we can see the river sweeping the foot of the opposite cliff in a great, easy curve, with a perpendicular or terraced wall rising from the water's edge many hundreds of feet. One of these we find very symmetrical and name it Sumner's Amphitheater. The cliffs are rarely broken by the entrance of side canyons, and we sweep around curve after curve with almost continuous walls for several miles.

The key point of the rock within the curve is usually broken down by a steep slope, and we occasionally pause to climb up at such spots. From there, when we look down, we can see the river gracefully sweeping along the foot of the opposite cliff in a smooth, wide curve, with a vertical or terraced wall rising from the water's edge for hundreds of feet. One of these walls is quite symmetrical, and we name it Sumner's Amphitheater. The cliffs are rarely interrupted by the entrance of side canyons, and we continue to navigate curve after curve with nearly continuous walls for several miles.

Late in the afternoon we find the river very much rougher and come upon rapids, not dangerous, but still demanding close attention. We camp at night on the right bank, having made 26 miles. July 8.--This morning Bradley and I go out to climb, and gain an altitude of more than 2,000 feet above the river, but still do not reach the summit of the wall.

Late in the afternoon, we find the river much rougher and encounter rapids—nothing dangerous, but they still require close attention. We set up camp for the night on the right bank, having traveled 26 miles. July 8.-- This morning, Bradley and I head out to climb and gain an altitude of over 2,000 feet above the river, but we still don’t reach the summit of the wall.

SUMNER'S AMPHITHEATER.

FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. 191

After dinner we pass through a region of the wildest desolation. The canyon is very tortuous, the river very rapid, and many lateral canyons enter on either side. These usually have their branches, so that the region is cut into a wilderness of gray and brown cliffs. In several places these lateral canyons are separated from one another only by narrow walls, often hundreds of feet high,--so narrow in places that where softer rocks are found below they have crumbled away and left holes in the wall, forming passages from one canyon into another. These we often call natural bridges; but they were never intended to span streams. They would better, perhaps, be called side doors between canyon chambers. Piles of broken rock lie against these walls; crags and tower-shaped peaks are seen everywhere, and away above them, long lines of broken cliffs; and above and beyond the cliffs are pine forests, of which we obtain occasional glimpses as we look up through a vista of rocks. The walls are almost without vegetation; a few dwarf bushes are seen here and there clinging to the rocks, and cedars grow from the crevices--not like the cedars of a land refreshed with rains, great cones bedecked with spray, but ugly clumps, like war clubs beset with spines. We are minded to call this the Canyon of Desolation.

After dinner, we move through an area of extreme desolation. The canyon twists and turns, the river rushes by quickly, and many side canyons open up on both sides. These usually have branches, creating a wilderness of gray and brown cliffs. In several spots, these side canyons are separated by only narrow walls, often hundreds of feet high—so narrow in some places that softer rocks underneath have crumbled away, creating holes in the wall that act as passages between the canyons. We often refer to these as natural bridges, but they were never meant to cross streams. They might be better described as side doors between canyon chambers. Piles of broken rock lean against these walls; crags and tower-shaped peaks are visible everywhere, along with long lines of jagged cliffs above. Beyond the cliffs, there are pine forests that we catch occasional glimpses of as we look up through the rocky openings. The canyon walls have very little vegetation; a few dwarf bushes cling to the rocks here and there, and cedars grow from the crevices—not like the lush cedars of a rain-soaked land, adorned with mist, but rather ugly clumps resembling war clubs covered in spines. We feel inclined to call this the Canyon of Desolation.

The wind annoys us much to-day. The water, rough by reason of the rapids, is made more so by head gales. Wherever a great face of rocks has a southern exposure, the rarefied air rises and the wind rushes in below, either up or down the canyon, or both, causing local currents. Just at sunset we run a bad rapid and camp at its foot.

The wind is really bothering us today. The water is choppy because of the rapids, and the strong winds make it worse. Wherever there’s a big face of rocks facing south, the lighter air rises, and the wind rushes in from below, either up or down the canyon, or both, creating local currents. Just at sunset, we ran a tough rapid and set up camp at its base.

July 9.--Our run to-day is through a canyon with ragged, broken walls, many lateral gulches or canyons entering on either side. The river is rough, and occasionally it becomes necessary to use lines in passing rocky places. During the afternoon we come to a rather open canyon valley, stretching up toward the west, its farther end lost in the mountains. From a point to which we climb we obtain a good view of its course, until its angular walls are lost in the vista.

July 9.-- Today, we're traveling through a canyon with jagged, broken walls, and many side gullies or canyons branching off on either side. The river is rough, and sometimes we need to use ropes to navigate around rocky areas. In the afternoon, we reach a more open canyon valley that stretches westward, disappearing into the mountains at the far end. From a spot we climb to, we get a great view of its path, until the angular walls fade into the distance.

July 10.--Sumner, who is a fine mechanic, is learning to take observations for time with the sextant. To-day he remains in camp to practice. Howland and I determine to climb out, and start up a lateral canyon, taking a barometer with us for the purpose of measuring the thickness

July 10.--Sumner, who is a skilled mechanic, is learning how to take time observations using the sextant. Today he stays in camp to practice. Howland and I decide to hike out and head up a side canyon, bringing a barometer with us to measure the thickness.

192 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

of the strata over which we pass. The readings of the barometer below are recorded every half hour and our observations must be simultaneous. Where the beds which we desire to measure are very thick, we must climb with the utmost speed to reach their summits in time; where the beds are thinner, we must wait for the moment to arrive; and so, by hard and easy stages, we make our way to the top of the canyon wall and reach the plateau above about two o' clock.

of the layers we are moving over. The barometer readings below are noted every half hour, and our observations need to be simultaneous. When the layers we want to measure are very thick, we have to climb as quickly as possible to reach their peaks in time; when the layers are thinner, we just have to wait for the right moment; and so, through challenging and easier sections, we make our way to the top of the canyon wall and reach the plateau above around two o'clock.

Howland, who has his gun with him, sees deer feeding a mile or two back and goes off for a hunt. I go to a peak which seems to be the highest one in this region, about half a mile distant, and climb, for-the purpose of tracing the topography of the adjacent country. From this point a fine view is obtained. A long plateau stretches across the river in an easterly and westerly direction, the summit covered by pine forests, with intervening elevated valleys and gulches. The plateau itself is cut in two by the canyon. Other side canyons head away back from the river and run down into the Green. Besides these, deep and abrupt canyons are seen to head back on the plateau and run north toward the Uinta and White rivers. Still other canyons head in the valleys and run toward the south. The elevation of the plateau being about 8,000 feet above the level of the sea, it is in a region of moisture, as is well attested by the forests and grassy valleys. The plateau seems to rise gradually to the west, until it merges into the Wasatch Mountains. On these high table-lands elk and deer abound; and they are favorite hunting grounds for the Ute Indians.

Howland, with his gun in hand, spots some deer feeding a mile or two back and heads off to hunt. I make my way to the highest peak in the area, about half a mile away, and climb it to map out the surrounding landscape. From this vantage point, the view is stunning. A long plateau stretches across the river to the east and west, its summit covered in pine forests, with valleys and gulches in between. The plateau is split in half by a canyon. There are other side canyons that branch off from the river and lead down into the Green. In addition, deep, steep canyons can be seen extending from the plateau and heading north towards the Uinta and White rivers. Other canyons originate in the valleys and flow southward. With the plateau sitting at about 8,000 feet above sea level, it's located in a region abundant in moisture, as evidenced by the forests and grassy valleys. The plateau gradually rises to the west until it connects with the Wasatch Mountains. These high plateaus are home to plenty of elk and deer, making them prime hunting grounds for the Ute Indians.

193

A little before sunset Howland and I meet again at the head of the side canyon, and down we start. It is late, and we must make great haste or be caught by the darkness; so we go, running where we can, leaping over the ledges, letting each other down on the loose rocks, as long as we can see. When darkness comes we are still some distance from camp, and a long, slow, anxious descent is made toward the gleaming camp fire.

A little before sunset, Howland and I meet again at the entrance of the side canyon, and we head down. It’s getting late, and we need to move quickly or we’ll be caught in the dark, so we run when we can, jump over the ledges, and help each other down the loose rocks as long as there's light. When it gets dark, we’re still far from camp, and we make a long, slow, anxious descent toward the glowing campfire.

After supper, observations for latitude are taken, and only two or three hours for sleep remain before daylight.

After dinner, latitude readings are taken, and there are only two or three hours left to sleep before dawn.

July 11.--A short distance below camp we run a rapid, and in doing so break an oar and then lose another, both belonging to the "Emma Dean." Now the pioneer boat has but two oars. We see nothing from

July 11.--A short distance below camp, we hit a rapid and end up breaking one oar and then losing another, both from the "Emma Dean." Now the pioneer boat has only two oars left. We see nothing from

194

CHIMNEYS AND ROOFS, ZUNI.

Chimneys and roofs, Zuni.

A TUSAYAN INTERIOR.

A TUSAYAN INSIDE.

FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. 195

which oars can be made, so we conclude to run on to some point where it seems possible to climb out to the forests on the plateau, and there we will procure suitable timber from which to make new ones.

which oars can be made, so we decide to head towards a point where it looks possible to climb up to the forests on the plateau, and there we will gather the right kind of wood to make new ones.

We soon approach another rapid. Standing on deck, I think it can be run, and on we go. Coming nearer, I see that at the foot it has a short turn to the left, where the waters pile up against the cliff. Here we try to land, but quickly discover that, being in swift water above the fall, we cannot reach shore, crippled as we are by the loss of two oars; so the bow of the boat is turned down stream. We shoot by a big rock; a reflex wave rolls over our little boat and fills her. I see that the place is dangerous and quickly signal to the other boats to land where they can. This is scarcely completed when another wave rolls our boat over and I am thrown some distance into the water. I soon find that swimming is very easy and I cannot sink. It is only necessary to ply strokes sufficient to keep my head out of the water, though now and then, when a breaker rolls over me, I close my mouth and am carried through it. The boat is drifting ahead of me 20 or 30 feet, and when the great waves have passed I overtake her and find Sumner and Dunn clinging to her. As soon as we reach quiet water we all swim to one side and turn her over. In doing this, Dunn loses his hold and goes under; when he comes up he is caught by Sumner and pulled to the boat. In the meantime we have drifted down stream some distance and see another rapid below. How bad it may be we cannot tell; so we swim toward shore, pulling our boat with us, with all the vigor possible, but are carried down much faster than distance toward shore is diminished. At last we reach a huge pile of driftwood. Our rolls of blankets, two guns, and a barometer were in the open compartment of the boat and, when it went over, these were thrown out. The guns and barometer are lost, but I succeeded in catching one of the rolls of blankets as it drifted down, when we were swimming to shore; the other two are lost, and sometimes hereafter we may sleep cold.

We soon approach another rapid. Standing on deck, I think we can navigate it, and we continue on. As we get closer, I see there's a sharp turn to the left at the bottom, where the water crashes against the cliff. We try to land here, but quickly realize that with two oars missing, we’re stuck in the swift current above the drop, so we turn the bow of the boat downstream. We rush past a large rock; a reflex wave crashes over our small boat and fills it. I recognize the danger, and quickly signal to the other boats to land wherever they can. Just as this is done, another wave tips our boat over, and I’m thrown into the water. I soon find that swimming is quite easy, and I can’t sink. It’s just a matter of moving enough to keep my head above water, though occasionally when a wave crashes over me, I close my mouth and go through it. The boat is about 20 or 30 feet ahead of me, and after the big waves pass, I catch up and see Sumner and Dunn clinging to it. Once we're in calm water, we all swim to one side and flip it over. In the process, Dunn loses his grip and goes under; when he surfaces, Sumner grabs him and pulls him back to the boat. Meanwhile, we’ve drifted downstream quite a bit and see another rapid ahead. We can't tell how bad it is, so we swim towards shore, pulling the boat with all our strength, but we get carried down much quicker than we’re making progress towards shore. Finally, we reach a massive pile of driftwood. Our rolls of blankets, two guns, and a barometer were in the open compartment of the boat, and when it flipped, those items were thrown out. The guns and barometer are lost, but I managed to grab one of the blanket rolls as it floated by while we were swimming to shore; the other two are gone, and soon enough, we might have to sleep cold.

A huge fire is built on the bank and our clothing spread to dry, and then from the drift logs we select one from which we think oars can be made, and the remainder of the day is spent in sawing them out.

A large fire is set up on the shore, and our clothes are laid out to dry. Then, we choose a drift log that we think can be used to make oars, and we spend the rest of the day cutting them out.

July 12.--This morning the new oars are finished and we start once more. We pass several bad rapids, making a short portage at one, and

July 12.--This morning, the new oars are finished, and we set off again. We go through several rough rapids, making a quick portage at one.

196 6 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

before noon we come to a long, bad fall, where the channel is filled with rocks on the left which turn the waters to the right, where they pass under an overhanging rock. On examination we determine to run it, keeping as close to the left-hand rocks as safety will permit, in order to avoid the overhanging cliff. The little boat runs over all right; another follows, but the men are not able to keep her near enough to the left bank and she is carried by a swift chute into great waves to the right, where she is tossed about and Bradley is knocked over the side; his foot catching under the seat, he is dragged along in the water with his head down; making great exertion, he seizes the gunwale with his left hand and can lift his head above water now and then. To us who are below, it seems impossible to keep the boat from going under the overhanging cliff; but Powell, for the moment heedless of Bradley's mishap, pulls with all his power for half a dozen strokes, when the danger is past; then he seizes Bradley and pulls him in. The men in the boat above, seeing this, land, and she is let down by lines.

Before noon, we reach a long, rough drop where the channel is filled with rocks on the left that push the water to the right, flowing beneath an overhanging rock. After checking it out, we decide to navigate through, staying as close to the left-hand rocks as we can for safety and to avoid the cliff. The small boat makes it through fine; another boat follows, but the crew can't keep it close enough to the left bank, and it gets swept by a fast current into big waves on the right, where it gets tossed around and Bradley gets knocked overboard. His foot gets caught under the seat, dragging him along in the water with his head down. Struggling hard, he grabs the gunwale with his left hand and can occasionally lift his head above the water. From our perspective below, it looks impossible to keep the boat from hitting the overhanging cliff, but Powell, momentarily ignoring Bradley's situation, pulls as hard as he can for a few strokes until the danger passes, then grabs Bradley and pulls him back in. The guys in the boat above, seeing this, come ashore, and they lower the boat by ropes.

Just here we emerge from the Canyon of Desolation, as we have named it, into a more open country, which extends for a distance of nearly a mile, when we enter another canyon cut through gray sandstone.

Just here we come out of the Canyon of Desolation, as we’ve named it, into a more open area that stretches for almost a mile, before we enter another canyon carved through gray sandstone.

About three o'clock in the afternoon we meet with a new difficulty. The river fills the entire channel; the walls are vertical on either side from the water's edge, and a bad rapid is beset with rocks. We come to the head of it and land on a rock in the stream. The little boat is let down to another rock below, the men of the larger boat holding to the line; the second boat is let down in the same way, and the line of the third boat is brought with them. Now the third boat pushes out from the upper rock, and, as we have her line below, we pull in and catch her as she is sweeping by at the foot of the rock on which we stand. Again the first boat is let down stream the full length of her line and the second boat is passed down, by the first to the extent of her line, which is held by the men in the first boat; so she is two lines' length from where she started. Then the third boat is let down past the second, and still down, nearly to the length of her line, so that she is fast to the second boat and swinging down three lines' lengths, with the other two boats intervening. Held in this way, the men

About three o'clock in the afternoon, we run into a new problem. The river completely fills the channel; the walls are steep on both sides from the water's edge, and a rough rapid is filled with rocks. We arrive at the head of it and land on a rock in the stream. The little boat is lowered to another rock below, while the crew of the larger boat holds onto the line; the second boat is lowered in the same manner, and the line of the third boat is brought with them. Now the third boat pushes out from the upper rock, and since we have her line below, we pull in and catch her as she sweeps by at the base of the rock where we’re standing. Again, the first boat is lowered downstream to the full length of her line, and the second boat is passed down by the first to the extent of her line, which the crew in the first boat holds; so she is two lines' lengths from where she started. Then the third boat is lowered past the second and still further down, nearly to the length of her line, so that she is tied to the second boat and swinging down three lines' lengths, with the other two boats in between. Held this way, the men

FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND.

197

are able to pull her into a cove in the left wall, where she is made fast. But this leaves a man on the rock above, holding to the line of the little boat. When all is ready, he springs from the rock, clinging to the line with one hand and swimming with the other, and we pull him in as he goes by. As the two boats, thus loosened, drift down, the men

are able to pull her into a cove in the left wall, where she is secured. But this leaves a man on the rock above, holding onto the line of the small boat. When everything is ready, he jumps from the rock, gripping the line with one hand and swimming with the other, and we pull him in as he passes by. As the two boats, now unmoored, drift down, the men

LIGHTHOUSE ROCK, CANYON OF DESOLATION.

Lighthouse Rock, Canyon of Desolation.

in the cove pull us all in as we come opposite; then we pass around to a point of rock below the cove, close to the wall, land, make a short portage over the worst places in the rapid, and start again.

in the cove pull us all in as we come opposite; then we pass around to a point of rock below the cove, close to the wall, land, make a short portage over the worst spots in the rapids, and start again.

At night we camp on a sand beach. The wind blows a hurricane; the drifting sand almost blinds us; and nowhere can we find shelter. The wind continues to blow all night, the sand sifting through our blankets

At night, we set up camp on a sandy beach. The wind howls like a hurricane; the blowing sand nearly blinds us, and there’s no shelter to be found anywhere. The wind keeps blowing all night, with sand sifting through our blankets.

198 8 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

and piling over us until we are covered as in a snowdrift. We are glad when morning comes.

and piling over us until we are covered like in a snowdrift. We are relieved when morning arrives.

July 13.--This morning we have an exhilarating ride. The river is swift, and there are many smooth rapids. I stand on deck, keeping careful watch ahead, and we glide along, mile after mile, plying strokes, now on the right and then on the left, just sufficient to guide our boats past the rocks into smooth water. At noon we emerge from Gray Canyon, as we have named it, and camp for dinner under a cotton-wood tree standing on the left bank.

July 13.--This morning we have an exciting ride. The river is fast, and there are plenty of smooth rapids. I’m standing on deck, keeping a close eye ahead, and we’re gliding along, mile after mile, rowing strokes, now on the right and then on the left, just enough to steer our boats past the rocks into calm water. At noon, we come out of Gray Canyon, as we’ve named it, and set up camp for dinner under a cottonwood tree on the left bank.

Extensive sand plains extend back from the immediate river valley as far as we can see on either side. These naked, drifting sands gleam brilliantly in the midday sun of July. The reflected heat from the glaring surface produces a curious motion of the atmosphere; little currents are generated and the whole seems to be trembling and moving about in many directions, or, failing to see that the movement is in the atmosphere, it gives the impression of an unstable land. Plains and hills and cliffs and distant mountains seem to be floating vaguely about in a trembling, wave-rocked sea, and patches of landscape seem to float away and be lost, and then to reappear.

Extensive sand plains stretch back from the nearby river valley as far as we can see on both sides. These bare, shifting sands shine brightly in the July midday sun. The heat bouncing off the bright surface creates a strange movement in the air; small currents form, making everything feel like it is shaking and shifting in various directions. If you don’t notice that the motion is in the air, it gives the impression of an unstable land. Plains, hills, cliffs, and distant mountains seem to be drifting around in a quivering, wave-tossed sea, and areas of the landscape appear to float away and vanish, only to reappear again.

Just opposite, there are buttes, outliers of cliffs to the left. Below, they are composed of shales and marls of light blue and slate colors; above, the rocks are buff and gray, and then brown. The buttes are buttressed below, where the azure rocks are seen, and terraced above through the gray and brown beds. A long line of cliffs or rock escarpments separates the table-lands through which Gray Canyon is cut, from the lower plain. The eye can trace these azure beds and cliffs on either side of the river, in a long line extending across its course, until they fade away in the perspective. These cliffs are many miles in length and hundreds of feet high; and all these buttes--great mountain-masses of rock--are dancing and fading away and reappearing, softly moving about,--or so they seem to the eye as seen through the shifting atmosphere.

Just across from here, there are buttes, which are outliers of cliffs on the left. Below, they are made up of light blue and slate-colored shales and marls; above, the rocks are buff and gray, then brown. The buttes are supported at the bottom, where you can see the blue rocks, and they are terraced at the top through the gray and brown layers. A long line of cliffs or rock escarpments separates the flatlands that Gray Canyon cuts through from the lower plain. You can see these blue layers and cliffs on both sides of the river, forming a long line that stretches across its path until they vanish in the distance. These cliffs extend for many miles and rise hundreds of feet high; all these buttes—massive formations of rock—appear to be swaying, fading in and out, and gently shifting around, or at least that's how they look through the changing atmosphere.

This afternoon our way is through a valley with cottonwood groves on either side. The river is deep, broad, and quiet. About two hours after noon camp we discover an Indian crossing, where a number of rafts, rudely constructed of logs and bound together by withes, are

This afternoon we're making our way through a valley lined with cottonwood groves on both sides. The river is deep, wide, and calm. About two hours after noon camp, we come across an Indian crossing, where several rafts, roughly built from logs and tied together with twigs, are

FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND.

199

floating against the bank. On landing, we see evidences that a party of Indians have crossed within a very few days. This is the place where the lamented Gunnison crossed, in the year 1853, when making an exploration for a railroad route to the Pacific coast.

floating against the bank. Upon landing, we see evidence that a group of Indians passed through here just a few days ago. This is the spot where the late Gunnison crossed in 1853 while exploring a route for a railroad to the Pacific coast.

An hour later we run a long rapid and stop at its foot to examine some interesting rocks, deposited by mineral springs that at one time must have existed here, but which are no longer flowing.

An hour later, we navigate a long rapid and stop at the bottom to check out some interesting rocks, left behind by mineral springs that once flowed here but are no longer running.

July 14.-- This morning we pass some curious black bluffs on the right, then two or three short canyons, and then we discover the mouth of the San Rafael, a stream which comes down from the distant mountains in the west. Here we stop for an hour or two and take a short walk up the valley, and find it is a frequent resort for Indians. Arrowheads are scattered about, many of them very beautiful; flint chips are strewn over the ground in great profusion, and the trails are well worn.

July 14.-- This morning we pass some interesting black cliffs on the right, then a couple of short canyons, and then we come across the mouth of the San Rafael, a stream that flows from the far-off mountains in the west. We stop here for an hour or two and take a short walk up the valley, finding that it’s a popular spot for Native Americans. Arrowheads are scattered everywhere, many of them quite beautiful; flint chips are spread across the ground in abundance, and the trails are well worn.

Starting after dinner, we pass some beautiful buttes on the left, many

Starting after dinner, we pass some stunning buttes on the left, many

GUNNISON BUTTE. GRAY CANYON (2,700 FEET HIGH).

GUNNISON BUTTE. GRAY CANYON (2,700 FEET TALL).

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Canyons of the Colorado.

of which are very symmetrical. They are chiefly composed of gypsum, of many hues, from light gray to slate color; then pink, purple, and brown beds. Now we enter another canyon. Gradually the walls rise higher and higher as we proceed, and the summit of the canyon is formed of the same beds of orange-colored sandstone. Back from the brink the hollows of the plateau are filled with sands disintegrated from these orange beds. They are of a rich cream color, shading into maroon, everywhere destitute of vegetation, and drifted into long, wave-like ridges.

of which are very symmetrical. They are mainly made up of gypsum, in various shades, from light gray to slate color; then pink, purple, and brown layers. Now we enter another canyon. Gradually, the walls rise higher and higher as we move forward, and the top of the canyon is made up of the same orange-colored sandstone layers. Behind the edge, the depressions of the plateau are filled with sands worn away from these orange layers. They are a rich cream color, fading into maroon, completely lacking vegetation, and shaped into long, wave-like ridges.

The course of the river is tortuous, and it nearly doubles upon itself many times. The water is quiet, and constant rowing is necessary to make much headway. Sometimes there is a narrow flood plain between the river and the wall, on one side or the other. Where these long, gentle curves are found, the river washes the very foot of the outer wall. A long peninsula of willow-bordered meadow projects within the curve, and the talus at the foot of the cliff is usually covered with dwarf oaks. The orange-colored sandstone is homogeneous in structure, and the walls are usually vertical, though not very high. Where the river sweeps around a curve under a cliff, a vast hollow dome may be seen, with many caves and deep alcoves, which are greatly admired by the members of the party as we go by.

The river winds in a twisting path, almost doubling back on itself multiple times. The water is calm, and you need to row steadily to make any progress. At times, there's a narrow floodplain between the river and the wall on either side. In areas where these long, gentle bends occur, the river flows right at the base of the outer wall. A long peninsula of meadow lined with willows juts out into the curve, and the rock at the base of the cliff is typically dotted with small oaks. The orange sandstone is uniform in texture, and the walls are usually straight up and down, though not very tall. Where the river sweeps around a bend beneath a cliff, a large hollow dome can be seen, featuring numerous caves and deep alcoves, which the group greatly admires as we pass by.

We camp at night on the left bank.

We camp at night on the left side of the river.

July 15.---Our camp is in a great bend of the canyon. The curve is to the west and we are on the east side of the river. Just opposite, a little stream comes down through a narrow side canyon. We cross and go up to explore it. At its mouth another lateral canyon enters, in the angle between the former and the main canyon above. Still another enters in the angle between the canyon below and the side canyon first mentioned; so that three side canyons enter at the same point. These canyons are very tortuous, almost closed in from view, and, seen from the opposite side of the river, they appear like three alcoves. We name this Trin-Alcove Bend.

July 15.---Our camp is in a big bend of the canyon. The curve is to the west, and we're on the east side of the river. Right across from us, a small stream flows down through a narrow side canyon. We cross over and head up to explore it. At its mouth, another side canyon comes in, at the angle between this one and the main canyon above. Another canyon enters at the angle between the canyon below and the first side canyon mentioned; so three side canyons meet at the same spot. These canyons are very winding, almost completely hidden from view, and from across the river, they look like three alcoves. We name this Trin-Alcove Bend.

Going up the little stream in the central cove, we pass between high walls of sandstone, and wind about in glens. Springs gush from the rocks at the foot of the walls; narrow passages in the rocks are threaded, caves are entered, and many side canyons are observed.

Going up the small stream in the central cove, we pass between high sandstone walls and wind through secluded glens. Springs flow from the rocks at the base of the walls; we navigate through narrow passages in the rocks, enter caves, and notice many side canyons.

201

RUINS OF KETCHIPAUAN.

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BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF THE LAND OF THE STANDING ROCKS.

FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. 203

The right cove is a narrow, winding gorge, with overhanging walls, almost shutting out the light. The left is an amphitheater, turning spirally up, with overhanging shelves. A series of basins filled with water are seen at different altitudes as we pass up; huge rocks are piled below on the right, and overhead there is an arched ceiling. After exploring these alcoves, we recross the river and climb the rounded rocks on the point of the bend. In every direction, as far as we are able to see, naked rocks appear. Buttes are scattered on the landscape, here rounded into cones, there buttressed, columned, and carved in quaint shapes, with deep alcoves and sunken recesses. All about us are basins, excavated in the soft sandstone; and these have been filled by the late rains.

The right cove is a narrow, winding gorge with overhanging walls that almost block out the light. The left side is like an amphitheater, spiraling upward with overhanging shelves. A series of basins filled with water can be seen at different heights as we move upward; huge rocks are piled below on the right, and above us is an arched ceiling. After exploring these alcoves, we cross the river again and climb the rounded rocks at the bend. Everywhere we look, as far as our eyes can see, there are bare rocks. Buttes are scattered across the landscape, some rounded into cones, others buttressed, columned, and shaped in unique ways, with deep alcoves and sunken recesses. All around us are basins carved into the soft sandstone, now filled with water from the recent rains.

Over the rounded rocks and water pockets we look off on a fine Stretch of river, and beyond are naked rocks and beautiful buttes leading the eye to the Azure Cliffs, and beyond these and above them the Brown Cliffs, and still beyond, mountain peaks; and clouds piled over all.

Over the smooth rocks and pools of water, we gaze at a beautiful stretch of river, with bare rocks and stunning buttes drawing our eyes to the Azure Cliffs. Above those cliffs are the Brown Cliffs, and even further, mountain peaks loom, with clouds stacked above everything.

On we go, after dinner, with quiet water, still compelled to row in order to make fair progress. The canyon is yet very tortuous. About six miles below noon camp we go around a great bend to the right, five miles in length, and come back to a point within a quarter of a mile of where we started. Then we sweep around another great bend to the left, making a circuit of nine miles, and come back to a point within 600 yards of the beginning of the bend. In the two circuits we describe almost the figure 8. The men call it a "bowknot" of river; so we name it Bowknot Bend. The line of the figure is 14 miles in length.

On we go, after dinner, with calm waters, still needing to row to make good progress. The canyon is still quite winding. About six miles below the noon camp, we navigate a huge bend to the right, which is five miles long, and end up just a quarter of a mile from where we started. Then we curve around another significant bend to the left, making a loop of nine miles, and return to a spot within 600 yards of the start of the bend. The two loops create almost the shape of an 8. The men call it a "bowknot" of the river, so we name it Bowknot Bend. The length of the figure is 14 miles.

There is an exquisite charm in our ride to-day down this beautiful canyon. It gradually grows deeper with every mile of travel; the walls are symmetrically curved and grandly arched, of a beautiful color, and reflected in the quiet waters in many places so as almost to deceive the eye and suggest to the beholder the thought that he is looking into profound depths. We are all in fine spirits and feel very gay, and the badinage of the men is echoed from wall to wall. Now and then we whistle or shout or discharge a pistol, to listen to the reverberations among the cliffs.

There’s a stunning charm in our ride today down this beautiful canyon. It gradually gets deeper with every mile we travel; the walls are symmetrically curved and grandly arched, displaying beautiful colors, and are reflected in the calm waters in many spots, almost tricking the eye and making you feel like you’re looking into deep depths. We’re all in great spirits and feel very cheerful, and the playful banter of the guys echoes from wall to wall. Every now and then, we whistle, shout, or fire a gun to hear the sounds bounce off the cliffs.

At night we camp on the south side of the great Bowknot, and as

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COLORADO CANYONS.

we eat supper, which is spread on the beach, we name this Labyrinth Canyon.

we have dinner, laid out on the beach, and we call this Labyrinth Canyon.

July 16.--Still we go down on our winding way. Tower cliffs are passed; then the river widens out for several miles, and meadows are seen on either side between the river and the walls. We name this expansion of the river Tower Park. At two o'clock we emerge from Labyrinth Canyon and go into camp.

July 16.--We continue on our winding journey. We pass towering cliffs, then the river stretches out for several miles, with meadows visible on both sides between the water and the walls. We call this section of the river Tower Park. At two o'clock, we exit Labyrinth Canyon and set up camp.

July 17.--The line which separates Labyrinth Canyon from the one below is but a line, and at once, this morning, we enter another canyon. The water fills the entire channel, so that nowhere is there room to land. The walls are low, but vertical, and as we proceed they gradually increase in altitude. Running a couple of miles, the river changes its course many degrees toward the east. Just here a little stream comes in on the right and the wall is broken down; so we land and go out to take

July 17.--The boundary that divides Labyrinth Canyon from the one below is just a line, and this morning, we enter another canyon. The water completely fills the channel, leaving no space to land. The walls are low but steep, and as we move forward, they gradually get taller. After running a couple of miles, the river shifts its direction noticeably towards the east. Right here, a small stream flows in from the right, and the wall is lowered; so we land and go out to take

THE BUTTE OF THE CEOSS.

a view of the surrounding country. We are now down among the buttes, and in a region the surface of which is naked, solid rock--a beautiful red sandstone, forming a smooth, undulating pavement. The Indians call this the Toom'pin Tuweap', or "Rock Land," and sometimes the Toom'pin wunear¹ Tuweap', or "Land of Standing Rock."

a view of the surrounding countryside. We are now among the buttes, in a region where the surface is bare, solid rock—a stunning red sandstone that creates a smooth, rolling pavement. The Indians refer to this as the Toom'pin Tuweap', or "Rock Land," and sometimes the Toom'pin wunear¹ Tuweap', or "Land of Standing Rock."

Off to the south we see a butte in the form of a fallen cross. It is several miles away, but it presents no inconspicuous figure on the

Off to the south, we see a butte shaped like a fallen cross. It’s a few miles away, but it stands out clearly on the

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LAND OF THE STANDING ROCKS.

206 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

landscape and must be many hundreds of feet high, probably more than 2,000. We note its position on our map and name it "The Butte of the Cross."

landscape and has to be many hundreds of feet high, probably over 2,000. We mark its location on our map and call it "The Butte of the Cross."

We continue our journey. In many places the walls, which rise from the water's edge, are overhanging on either side. The stream is still quiet, and we glide along through a strange, weird, grand region. The landscape everywhere, away from the river, is of rock--cliffs of rock, tables of rock, plateaus of rock, terraces of rock, crags of rock--ten thousand strangely carved forms; rocks everywhere, and no vegetation, no soil, no sand. In long, gentle curves the river winds about these rocks.

We continue our journey. In many spots, the walls that rise from the edge of the water hang over on both sides. The stream is still calm, and we smoothly move through a strange, eerie, impressive area. The landscape all around, away from the river, is made up of rock—rock cliffs, rock tables, rock plateaus, rock terraces, rock crags—ten thousand oddly shaped forms; rocks everywhere, with no plants, no soil, no sand. The river winds around these rocks in long, gentle curves.

When thinking of these rocks one must not conceive of piles of boulders or heaps of fragments, but of a whole land of naked rock, with giant forms carved on it: cathedral-shaped buttes, towering hundreds or thousands of feet, cliffs that cannot be scaled, and canyon walls that shrink the river into insignificance, with vast, hollow domes and tall pinnacles and shafts set on the verge overhead; and all highly colored--buff, gray, red, brown, and chocolate--never lichened, never moss-covered, but bare, and often polished.

When thinking about these rocks, you shouldn't picture piles of boulders or heaps of fragments, but rather a vast landscape of bare rock, with massive shapes carved into it: cathedral-like buttes rising hundreds or thousands of feet, cliffs that are impossible to climb, and canyon walls that make the river seem tiny, along with enormous, hollow domes and tall spires and columns positioned above; all vibrant in color—buff, gray, red, brown, and chocolate—never covered in lichen or moss, but exposed and often shiny.

We pass a place where two bends of the river come together, an intervening rock having been worn away and a new channel formed across. The old channel ran in a great circle around to the right, by what was once a circular peninsula, then an island; then the water left the old channel entirely and passed through the cut, and the old bed of the river is dry. So the great circular rock stands by itself, with precipitous walls all about it, and we find but one place where it can be scaled. Looking from its summit, a long stretch of river is seen, sweeping close to the overhanging cliffs on the right, but having a little meadow between it and the wall on the left. The curve is very gentle and regular. We name this Bonita Bend.

We pass a spot where two bends of the river meet, a rock in the middle having been eroded away and a new channel formed. The old channel curved around to the right, past what used to be a circular peninsula, then an island; then the water completely left the old channel and flowed through the new cut, leaving the old riverbed dry. Now the large circular rock stands alone, with steep walls all around it, and there's only one place where it can be climbed. From its top, you can see a long stretch of river sweeping close to the overhanging cliffs on the right, with a small meadow between the river and the wall on the left. The curve is very gentle and smooth. We call this Bonita Bend.

And just here we climb out once more, to take another bearing on The Butte of the Cross. Reaching an eminence from which we can overlook the landscape, we are surprised to find that our butte, with its wonderful form, is indeed two buttes, one so standing in front of the other that from our last point of view it gave the appearance of a cross.

And here we climb out again to get another view of The Butte of the Cross. When we reach a high point where we can see the landscape, we're surprised to discover that our butte, with its amazing shape, is actually two buttes, one directly in front of the other, which made it look like a cross from our previous viewpoint.

A few miles below Bonita Bend we go out again a mile or two

A few miles below Bonita Bend, we head out again for a mile or two.

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MOENKOPI.

208

ORAIBI HOUSES.

Oraibi Homes.

FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. 209

among the rocks, toward the Orange Cliffs, passing over terraces paved with jasper. The cliffs are not far away and we soon reach them, and wander in some deep, painted alcoves which attracted our attention from the river; then we return to our boats.

among the rocks, toward the Orange Cliffs, crossing terraces covered with jasper. The cliffs are close by, and we quickly get there, exploring some deep, colorful alcoves that caught our eye from the river; then we head back to our boats.

Late in the afternoon the water becomes swift and our boats make great speed.. An hour of this rapid running brings us to the junction of the Grand and Green, the foot of Stillwater Canyon, as we have named it. These streams-unite in solemn depths, more than 1,200 feet below the general surface of the country. The walls of the lower end of Stillwater Canyon are very beautifully curved, as the river sweeps in its meandering course. The lower end of the canyon through which the Grand comes down is also regular, but much more direct, and we look up this stream and out into the country beyond and obtain glimpses of snow-clad peaks, the summits of a group of mountains known as the Sierra La Sal. Down the Colorado the canyon walls are much broken.

Late in the afternoon, the water gets fast, and our boats pick up speed. After an hour of this quick pace, we reach the point where the Grand and Green rivers meet, which we've named the foot of Stillwater Canyon. These rivers come together in deep waters, more than 1,200 feet below the overall surface of the land. The walls at the lower end of Stillwater Canyon are beautifully curved as the river winds along its course. The lower section of the canyon where the Grand flows is also straight but much more direct, allowing us to look up this stream and catch sight of the land beyond, where we see glimpses of snow-covered peaks from a mountain range known as the Sierra La Sal. Down the Colorado, the canyon walls are much more jagged.

We row around into the Grand and camp on its northwest bank; and here we propose to stay several days, for the purpose of determining the latitude and longitude and the altitude of the walls. Much of the night is spent in making observations with the sextant.

We paddle into the Grand and set up camp on its northwest bank; we're planning to stay here for several days to figure out the latitude, longitude, and height of the walls. We spend a lot of the night taking observations with the sextant.

The distance from the mouth of the Uinta to the head of the Canyon of Desolation is 20 3/4 miles. The Canyon of Desolation is 97 miles long; Gray Canyon, 36 miles. The course of the river through Gunnison Valley is 27 1/4 miles; Labyrinth Canyon, 62 1/2 miles.

The distance from the mouth of the Uinta to the head of the Canyon of Desolation is 20 3/4 miles. The Canyon of Desolation is 97 miles long; Gray Canyon is 36 miles. The path of the river through Gunnison Valley is 27 1/4 miles; Labyrinth Canyon is 62 1/2 miles.

In the Canyon of Desolation the highest rocks immediately over the river are about 2,400 feet. This is at Log Cabin Cliff. The highest part of the terrace is near the brink of the Brown Cliffs. Climbing the immediate walls of the canyon and passing back to the canyon terrace and climbing that, we find the altitude above the river to be 3,300 feet. The lower end of Gray Canyon is about 2,000 feet; the lower end of Labyrinth Canyon, 1,300 feet.

In the Canyon of Desolation, the tallest rocks right above the river are about 2,400 feet high. This is at Log Cabin Cliff. The highest point of the terrace is close to the edge of the Brown Cliffs. If we climb the steep walls of the canyon and make our way back to the canyon terrace, we find that the height above the river is 3,300 feet. The lower end of Gray Canyon is approximately 2,000 feet, while the lower end of Labyrinth Canyon is about 1,300 feet.

Stillwater Canyon is 42 3/4 miles long; the highest walls, 1,300 feet.

Stillwater Canyon is 42.75 miles long, with the tallest walls reaching 1,300 feet.

210

THE HEART OF MARBLE CANYON.

211

CHAPTER X.

CHAPTER 10.

FROM THE JUNCTION OF THE GRAND AND GREEN TO THE MOUTH OF THE LITTLE COLORADO.

JULY 18.--The day is spent in obtaining the time and spreading our rations, which we find are badly injured. The flour has been wet and dried so many times that it is all musty and full of hard lumps. We make a sieve of mosquito netting and run our flour through, it, losing more than 200 pounds by the process. Our losses, by the wrecking of the "No Name," and by various mishaps since, together with the amount thrown away to-day, leave us little more than two months' supplies, and to make them last thus long we must be fortunate enough to lose no more.

JULY 18.--The day is spent checking the time and sorting our rations, which we discover are badly damaged. The flour has been wet and dried so many times that it’s all musty and full of hard clumps. We make a sieve from mosquito netting and sift our flour through it, losing over 200 pounds in the process. Our losses, due to the wrecking of the "No Name" and various other mishaps since then, along with the amount thrown away today, leave us with just over two months' worth of supplies. To make them last that long, we need to be lucky enough not to lose any more.

We drag our boats on shore and turn them over to recalk and pitch them, and Sumner is engaged in repairing barometers. While we are here for a day or two, resting, we propose to put everything in the best shape for a vigorous campaign.

We pull our boats onto the shore and flip them over to fix and seal them, and Sumner is busy repairing barometers. While we spend a day or two resting here, we plan to get everything in top shape for an active campaign.

July 19.--Bradley and I start this morning to climb the left wall below the junction. The way we have selected is up a gulch. Climbing for an hour over and among the rocks, we find ourselves in a vast amphitheater and our way cut off. We clamber around to the left for half an hour, until we find that we cannot go up in that direction. Then we try the rocks around to the right and discover a narrow shelf nearly half a mile long. In some places this is so wide that we pass along with ease; in others it is so narrow and sloping that we are compelled to lie down and crawl. We can look over the edge of the shelf, down 800 feet, and see the river rolling and plunging among the rocks. Looking up 500 feet to the brink of the cliff, it seems to blend with the sky. We continue along until we come to a point where the wall is again broken down. Up we climb. On the right there is a narrow, mural point

July 19.--Bradley and I are starting this morning to climb the left wall below the junction. We’ve chosen a path up a gulch. After climbing for an hour over and around the rocks, we find ourselves in a huge amphitheater with no way to go forward. We scramble around to the left for half an hour, only to realize we can't go up that way. So, we try the rocks to the right and find a narrow ledge that's almost half a mile long. In some parts, it’s wide enough that we can walk easily; in others, it's so narrow and sloped that we have to lie down and crawl. We can look over the edge of the ledge, down 800 feet, and see the river rolling and plunging among the rocks. Looking up 500 feet to the top of the cliff, it seems to merge with the sky. We keep going until we reach another spot where the wall is broken again. Up we climb. On the right, there’s a narrow point.

212 2 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

of rocks, extending toward the river, 200 or 300 feet high and 600 or 800 feet long. We come back to where this sets in and find it cut off from the main wall by a great crevice. Into this we pass; and now a long, narrow rock is between us and the river. The rock itself is split longitudinally and transversely; and the rains on the surface above have run down through the crevices and gathered into channels below and then run off into the river. The crevices are usually narrow above and, by erosion of the streams, wider below, forming a network of "caves", each cave having a narrow, winding skylight up through the rocks. We wander among these corridors for an hour or two, but find no place where the rocks are broken down so that we can climb up. At last we determine to attempt a passage by a crevice, and select one which we think is wide enough to admit of the passage of our bodies and yet narrow enough to climb out by pressing our hands and feet against the walls. So we climb as men would out of a well. Bradley climbs first; I hand him the barometer, then climb over his head and he hands me the barometer. So we pass each other alternately until we emerge from the fissure, out on the summit of the rock. And what a world of grandeur is spread before us! Below is the canyon through which the Colorado runs. We can trace its course for miles, and at points catch glimpses of the river. From the northwest comes the Green in a narrow winding gorge. From the northeast comes the Grand, through a canyon that seems bottomless from where we stand. Away to the west are lines of cliffs and ledges of rock--not such ledges as the reader may have seen where the quarryman splits his blocks, but ledges from which the gods might quarry mountains that, rolled out on the plain below, would stand a lofty range; and not such cliffs as the reader may have seen where the swallow builds its nest, but cliffs where the soaring eagle is lost to view ere he reaches the summit. Between us and the distant cliffs are the strangely carved and pinnacled rocks of the Toom'pin wunear' Tuweap'. On the summit of the opposite wall of the canyon are rock forms that we do not understand. Away to the east a group of eruptive mountains are seen--the Sierra La Sal, which we first saw two days ago through the canyon of the Grand. Their slopes are covered with pines, and deep gulches are flanked with great crags, and snow fields are seen near the summits. So the moun-

of rocks, rising toward the river, 200 or 300 feet high and 600 or 800 feet long. We return to where this is located and find it separated from the main wall by a large crevice. We move into this space; now a long, narrow rock stands between us and the river. The rock itself is split both lengthwise and crosswise; the rain on the surface above has flowed down through the cracks, forming channels below that lead into the river. The cracks are usually narrow at the top and, due to stream erosion, wider at the bottom, creating a network of "caves," each one featuring a narrow, winding skylight up through the rocks. We explore these corridors for an hour or two but find no spot where the rocks have eroded enough for us to climb up. Finally, we decide to attempt to pass through one of the crevices, choosing one that appears wide enough for our bodies to fit while still narrow enough to climb out by pressing our hands and feet against the walls. So we climb like people would out of a well. Bradley goes first; I hand him the barometer, then climb over his head while he hands me the barometer. We alternate passing it back and forth until we finally emerge from the fissure, standing on top of the rock. And what an incredible view spreads out before us! Below lies the canyon through which the Colorado flows. We can trace its path for miles, catching glimpses of the river at various points. From the northwest, the Green River winds through a narrow gorge. From the northeast, the Grand River flows through a canyon that seems bottomless from our viewpoint. To the west, there are layers of cliffs and ledges of rock—not the kind of ledges one might see where the quarryman splits blocks, but ledges from which the gods could quarry mountains that, if rolled down to the plain below, would form a towering range; and not the type of cliffs where swallows build their nests, but cliffs so high that the soaring eagle disappears from view before reaching the top. Between us and the distant cliffs are the uniquely shaped and spire-like rocks of the Toom'pin wunear' Tuweap'. On the summit of the opposite wall of the canyon are rock formations we don't understand. Far to the east, a range of volcanic mountains is visible—the Sierra La Sal, which we first saw two days ago through the Grand Canyon. Their slopes are covered in pine trees, deep ravines are lined with towering crags, and patches of snow can be seen near the peaks. So the moun-

FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO.

213

tains are in uniform,--green, gray, and silver. Wherever we look there is but a wilderness of rocks,--deep gorges where the rivers are lost below cliffs and towers and pinnacles, and ten thousand strangely carved forms in every direction, and beyond them mountains blending with the clouds.

Mountains are dressed in their uniforms of green, gray, and silver. No matter where we look, we see nothing but a wilderness of rocks—deep gorges where the rivers disappear beneath cliffs, towers, and peaks, along with ten thousand oddly shaped formations in every direction, and beyond them, mountains merge with the clouds.

Now we return to camp. While eating supper we very naturally speak of better fare, as musty bread and spoiled bacon are not palatable. Soon I see Hawkins down by the boat, taking up the sextant--rather a strange proceeding for him--and I question him concerning it. He replies that he is trying to find the latitude and longitude of the nearest pie.

Now we’re back at camp. While having dinner, we naturally talk about better food since stale bread and rotten bacon aren’t tasty. Soon, I notice Hawkins down by the boat, picking up the sextant—quite an odd thing for him to do—and I ask him about it. He answers that he’s trying to find the latitude and longitude of the nearest pie.

July 20.--This morning Captain Powell and I go out to climb the west wall of the canyon, for the purpose of examining the strange rocks seen yesterday from the other side. Two hours bring us to the top, at a point between the Green and Colorado overlooking the junction of the rivers.

July 20.--This morning, Captain Powell and I head out to climb the west wall of the canyon to check out the strange rocks we saw yesterday from the other side. After two hours, we reach the top, at a spot between the Green and Colorado rivers that looks over where the two rivers meet.

A long neck of rock extends toward the mouth of the Grand. Out on this we walk, crossing a great number of deep crevices. Usually the smooth rock slopes down to the fissure on either side. Sometimes

A long strip of rock juts out toward the mouth of the Grand. We walk out on this, crossing several deep cracks. Typically, the smooth rock slopes down to the gap on either side. Sometimes

A LATERAL CANYON.

A side canyon.

214 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

it is an interesting question to us whether the slope is not so steep that we cannot stand on it. Sometimes, starting down, we are compelled to go on, and when we measure the crevice with our eye from above we are not always sure that it is not too wide for a jump. Probably the slopes would not be difficult if there was not a fissure at the lower end; nor would the fissures cause fear if they were but a few feet deep. It is curious how a little obstacle becomes a great obstruction when a misstep would land a man in the bottom of a deep chasm. Climbing the face of a cliff, a man will without hesitancy walk along a step or shelf but a few inches wide if the landing is but ten feet below, but if the foot of the cliff is a thousand feet down he will prefer to crawl along the shelf. At last our way is cut off by a fissure so deep and wide that we cannot pass it. Then we turn and walk back into the country, over the smooth, naked sandstone, without vegetation, except that here and there dwarf cedars and piñón pines have found a footing in the huge cracks. There are great basins in the rock, holding water,--some but a few gallons, others hundreds of barrels.

It’s an interesting question for us whether the slope isn’t so steep that we can’t stand on it. Sometimes, as we start going down, we have to keep moving forward, and when we look at the crevice from above, we’re not always sure it’s not too wide for a jump. Probably, the slopes wouldn’t be tough if there wasn’t a crack at the bottom; nor would the cracks be scary if they were only a few feet deep. It’s strange how a small obstacle can turn into a big issue when one misstep could send someone to the bottom of a deep chasm. When climbing a cliff, a person will confidently walk along a ledge that’s only a few inches wide if the drop is just ten feet below, but if the cliff drops a thousand feet, they’ll choose to crawl along the ledge. Eventually, our path is blocked by a crack so deep and wide that we can’t cross it. So, we turn back and walk into the landscape, over the smooth, bare sandstone, with barely any vegetation except for a few dwarf cedars and piñón pines that have managed to take root in the large cracks. There are big basins in the rock holding water—some just a few gallons, others hundreds of barrels.

The day is spent in walking about through these strange scenes. A narrow gulch is cut into the wall of the main canyon. Follow this up and the climb is rapid, as if going up a mountain side, for the gulch heads but a few hundred or a few thousand yards from the wall. But this gulch has its side gulches, and as the summit is approached a group of radiating canyons is found. The spaces drained by these little canyons are terraced, and are, to a greater or less extent, of the form of amphitheaters, though some are oblong and some rather irregular. Usually the spaces drained by any two of these little side canyons are separated by a narrow wall, 100, 200, or 300 feet high, and often but a few feet in thickness. Sometimes the wall is broken into a line of pyramids above and still remains a wall below. There are a number of these gulches which break the wall of the main canyon of the Green, each one having its system of side canyons and amphitheaters, inclosed by walls or lines of pinnacles. The course of the Green at this point is approximately at right angles to that of the Colorado, and on the brink of the latter canyon we find the same system of terraced and walled glens. The walls and pinnacles and towers are of sandstone, homogeneous in structure but not in color, as they show broad bands of red,

The day is spent walking around these strange sights. A narrow gulch cuts into the wall of the main canyon. If you follow it up, the climb is quick, almost like climbing a mountain, as the gulch starts just a few hundred or a few thousand yards from the wall. But this gulch has its own smaller side gulches, and as you get closer to the summit, you'll find a group of branching canyons. The areas drained by these smaller canyons are terraced and take on the shape of amphitheaters to varying degrees, with some being oblong and others a bit irregular. Usually, the areas drained by any two of these smaller side canyons are separated by a narrow wall, 100, 200, or 300 feet high, often only a few feet thick. Sometimes the wall breaks into a line of pyramids above but stays as a wall below. There are several of these gulches breaking into the wall of the main canyon of the Green, each with its own system of side canyons and amphitheaters, enclosed by walls or lines of pinnacles. At this point, the route of the Green is roughly at right angles to that of the Colorado, and on the edge of the latter canyon, we see the same system of terraced and walled valleys. The walls, pinnacles, and towers are made of sandstone, consistent in structure but varied in color, displaying broad bands of red,

FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 215

buff, and gray. This painting of the rocks, dividing them into sections, increases their apparent height. In some places these terraced and walled glens along the Colorado have coalesced with those along the Green; that is, the intervening walls are broken down. It is very rarely that a loose rock is seen. The sand is washed off, so that the walls, terraces, and slopes of the glens are all of smooth sandstone.

buff, and gray. This painting of the rocks, separating them into sections, makes them seem taller. In some areas, these terraced and walled valleys along the Colorado have merged with those along the Green; in other words, the walls between them have crumbled. It's very uncommon to see a loose rock. The sand has been washed away, leaving the walls, terraces, and slopes of the valleys all smooth sandstone.

In the walls themselves curious caves and channels have been carved. In some places there are little stairways up the walls; in others, the walls present what are known as royal arches; and so we wander through glens and among pinnacles and climb the walls from early morn until late in the afternoon.

In the walls, fascinating caves and channels have been formed. In some spots, there are small stairways leading up the walls; in others, the walls feature what are called royal arches. So, we meander through valleys and around peaks, climbing the walls from early morning until late in the afternoon.

July 21.--We start this morning on the Colorado. The river is rough, and bad rapids in close succession are found. Two very hard portages are made during the forenoon. After dinner, in running a rapid, the "Emma Dean" is swamped and we are thrown into the river; we cling to the boat, and in the first quiet water below she is righted and bailed out; but three oars are lost in this mishap. The larger boats land above the dangerous place, and we make a portage, which occupies

July 21.--We set out this morning on the Colorado. The river is rough, with dangerous rapids coming one after another. We make two very tough portages in the morning. After lunch, while navigating a rapid, the "Emma Dean" capsizes, and we get tossed into the river; we hold onto the boat, and in the first calm water downstream, we manage to flip her back upright and bail her out. However, we lose three oars in the process. The larger boats pull up above the risky spot, and we do a portage, which takes

A TUSAYAN MEALING TROUGH.

all the afternoon. We camp at night on the rocks on the left bank, and can scarcely find room to lie down.

all afternoon. We camp at night on the rocks on the left bank and can barely find enough room to lie down.

July 22.--This morning we continue our journey, though short of oars. There is no timber growing on the walls within our reach and no driftwood along the banks, so we are compelled to go on until something suitable can be found. A mile and three quarters below, we find

July 22.--This morning we continue our journey, although we're short on oars. There isn’t any timber within our reach along the walls, and there’s no driftwood along the banks, so we have to keep moving until we find something suitable. A mile and three-quarters down the river, we find

216 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

a huge pile of driftwood, among which are some cottonwood logs. From these we select one which we think the best, and the men are set at work sawing oars. Our boats are leaking again, from the strains received in the bad rapids yesterday, so after dinner they are turned over and some of the men calk them.

a huge pile of driftwood, including some cottonwood logs. We choose one that seems the best, and the guys get to work sawing oars. Our boats are leaking again from the damage they took in the rough rapids yesterday, so after lunch, we flip them over, and some of the men start to caulk them.

Captain Powell and I go out to climb the wall to the east, for we can see dwarf pines above, and it is our purpose to collect the resin which oozes from them, to use in pitching our boats. We take a barometer with us and find that the walls are becoming higher, for now they register an altitude above the river of nearly 1,500 feet.

Captain Powell and I head out to climb the wall to the east because we can see some dwarf pines above, and we want to collect the resin oozing from them to use for sealing our boats. We take a barometer along and notice that the walls are getting higher, as it now shows an altitude of nearly 1,500 feet above the river.

July 23.--On starting, we come at once to difficult rapids and falls, that in many places are more abrupt than in any of the canyons through which we have passed, and we decide to name this Cataract Canyon. From morning until noon the course of the river is to the west; the scenery is grand, with rapids, and falls below, and walls above, beset with crags and pinnacles. Just at noon we wheel again to the south and go into camp for dinner.

July 23.--As we begin our journey, we immediately encounter challenging rapids and waterfalls, which in many spots are steeper than any we’ve seen in the canyons we've passed through. We decide to call this Cataract Canyon. From morning until noon, the river flows west; the views are magnificent, with rapids and waterfalls below and towering walls above, filled with jagged rocks and peaks. Right at noon, we turn south again and set up camp for dinner.

While the cook is preparing it, Bradley, Captain Powell, and I go up into a side canyon that comes in at this point. We enter through a very narrow passage, having to wade along the course of a little stream until a cascade interrupts our progress. Then we climb to the right for a hundred feet until we reach a little shelf, along which we pass, walking with great care, for it is narrow; thus we pass around the fall. Here the gorge widens into a spacious, sky-roofed chamber. In the farther end is a beautiful grove of cottonwoods, and between us and the cotton-woods the little stream widens out into three clear lakelets with bottoms of smooth rock. Beyond the cottonwoods the brook tumbles in a series of white, shining cascades from heights that seem immeasurable. Turning around, we can look through the cleft through which we came and see the river with towering walls beyond. What a chamber for a resting-place is this! hewn from the solid rock, the heavens for a ceiling, cascade fountains within, a grove in the conservatory, clear lakelets for a refreshing bath, and an outlook through the doorway on a raging river, with cliffs and mountains beyond.

While the cook prepares the meal, Bradley, Captain Powell, and I head up into a side canyon that opens up here. We enter through a very narrow passage, wading along a small stream until we reach a cascade that blocks our path. Then we climb to the right for about a hundred feet until we find a little ledge, walking carefully along it since it's narrow; this allows us to go around the waterfall. Here, the gorge opens up into a spacious, sky-lit chamber. At the far end, there’s a lovely grove of cottonwoods, and between us and the cottonwoods, the stream widens into three clear pools with smooth rock bottoms. Beyond the cottonwoods, the brook cascades down in a series of bright, shining waterfalls from heights that seem endless. Turning around, we can see through the cleft we came through and gaze at the river with towering walls in the distance. What a resting place this is! Carved from solid rock, with the sky for a ceiling, cascading fountains inside, a grove like a conservatory, clear pools for a refreshing dip, and a view through the opening at a raging river, with cliffs and mountains beyond.

Our way after dinner is through a gorge, grand beyond description. The walls are nearly vertical, the river broad and swift, but free from

Our path after dinner takes us through a gorge that’s incredibly impressive. The walls are almost vertical, and the river is wide and fast, but clear of

FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 217

rocks and falls. From the edge of the water to the brink of the cliffs it is 1,600 to 1,800 feet. At this great depth the river rolls in solemn majesty. The cliffs are reflected from the more quiet river, and we seem to be in the depths of the earth, and yet we can look down into waters that reflect a bottomless abyss. Early in the afternoon we arrive

rocks and falls. From the edge of the water to the top of the cliffs, it's about 1,600 to 1,800 feet. At this great depth, the river flows with solemn grandeur. The cliffs are mirrored in the calmer waters of the river, making it feel like we’re deep within the earth, and yet we can gaze down into waters that seem to lead to an endless void. Early in the afternoon, we arrive

THE HEART OF CATARACT CANYON.

Cataract Canyon's Heart.

at the head of more rapids and falls, but, wearied with past work, we determine to rest, so go into camp, and the afternoon and evening are spent by the men in discussing the probabilities of successfully navigating the river below. The barometric records are examined to see what descent we have made since we left the mouth of the Grand, and what descent since we left the Pacific Railroad, and what fall there yet

at the start of more rapids and waterfalls, but feeling tired from our previous work, we decide to take a break, so we set up camp. The afternoon and evening are spent by the guys debating the chances of successfully navigating the river ahead. We check the barometric readings to see how much we've descended since we left the mouth of the Grand River, how much we've dropped since we left the Pacific Railroad, and how much further there is to go.

218 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

must be to the river ere we reach the end of the great canyons. The conclusion at which the men arrive seems to be about this: that there are great descents yet to be made, but if they are distributed in rapids and short falls, as they have been heretofore, we shall be able to overcome them; but may be we shall come to a fall in these canyons which we cannot pass, where the walls rise from the water's edge, so that we cannot land, and where the water is so swift that we cannot return. Such places have been found, except that the falls were not so great but that we could run them with safety. How will it be in the future t So they speculate over the serious probabilities in jesting mood.

must be to the river before we reach the end of the great canyons. The conclusion the men come to seems to be this: there are significant descents still to be made, but if they are spread out in rapids and short drops, like they have been so far, we should be able to manage them; however, we might come across a fall in these canyons that we can't get past, where the walls rise straight from the water's edge, making it impossible to land, and where the current is so fast that we can't go back. Such places have been encountered, except that the drops weren't so severe that we couldn’t handle them safely. How will it be in the future? So they speculate about the serious possibilities with a joking attitude.

July 24.--We examine the rapids below. Large rocks have fallen from the walls--great, angular blocks, which have rolled down the talus and are strewn along the channel. We are compelled to make three portages in succession, the distance being less than three fourths of a mile, with a fall of 75 feet. Among these rocks, in chutes, whirlpools, and great waves, with rushing breakers and foam, the water finds its way, still tumbling down. We stop for the night only three fourths of a mile below the last camp. A very hard day's work has been done, and at evening I sit on a rock by the edge of the river and look at the water and listen to its roar. Hours ago deep shadows settled into the canyon, as the sun passed behind the cliffs. Now, doubtless, the sun has gone down, for we can see no glint of light on the crags above. Darkness is coming on; but the waves are rolling with crests of foam so white they seem almost to give a light of their own. Near by, a chute of water strikes the foot of a great block of limestone 50 feet high, and the waters pile up against it and roll back. Where there are sunken rocks the water heaps up in mounds, or even in cones. At a point where rocks come very near the surface, the water forms a chute above, strikes, and is shot up 10 or 15 feet, and piles back in gentle curves, as in a fountain; and on the river tumbles and rolls.

July 24.--We check out the rapids downstream. Big rocks have fallen from the cliffs—huge, angular blocks that have rolled down the slope and are scattered along the riverbed. We have to carry our gear three times in a row over a distance of less than three quarters of a mile, with a drop of 75 feet. Among these rocks, the water weaves through chutes, whirlpools, and huge waves, crashing with foamy breakers as it tumbles down. We stop for the night just three quarters of a mile below our last campsite. It's been a tough day of work, and in the evening, I sit on a rock by the river and watch the water while listening to its roar. Hours ago, deep shadows crept into the canyon as the sun dipped behind the cliffs. Now, it’s clear the sun has set, as there's no glimmer on the crags above. Darkness is closing in, but the waves roll with foamy crests so bright they almost seem to glow. Nearby, a stream of water slams into a massive limestone block that's 50 feet high, pushing against it and rolling back. Where the rocks are submerged, the water forms mounds, or even cones. At a spot where the rocks are near the surface, the water creates a chute above, hits, and shoots up 10 to 15 feet, then piles back in gentle curves like a fountain, while the river tumbles and rolls.

July 25.--Still more rapids and falls to-day. In one, the "Emma Dean" is caught in a whirlpool and set spinning about, and it is with great difficulty we are able to get out of it with only the loss of an oar. At noon another is made; and on we go, running some of the rapids, letting down with lines past others, and making two short portages. We camp on the right bank, hungry and tired.

July 25.--Even more rapids and falls today. In one, the "Emma Dean" gets caught in a whirlpool and starts spinning, and we struggle to get out with just the loss of an oar. At noon we encounter another one, and we continue, navigating some of the rapids, lowering ourselves with lines past others, and making two short portages. We set up camp on the right bank, hungry and exhausted.

FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO.

219

July 26.--We run a short distance this morning and go into camp to make oars and repair boats and barometers. The walls of the canyon have been steadily increasing in altitude to this point, and now they are more than 2,000 feet high. In many places they are vertical from the water's edge; in others there is a talus between the river and the foot of the cliff; and they are often broken down by side canyons. It is probable that the river is nearly as low now as it is ever found. High-water mark can be observed 40, 50, 60, or 100 feet above its present stage. Sometimes logs and driftwood are seen wedged into the crevices over-head, where floods have carried them.

July 26.-- We traveled a short distance this morning and set up camp to make oars and fix the boats and barometers. The canyon walls have been steadily getting taller, and now they’re over 2,000 feet high. In many spots, they rise straight up from the water's edge; in others, there’s a slope between the river and the base of the cliff, and they’re often interrupted by side canyons. It’s likely that the river is about as low as it ever gets. You can see the high-water marks 40, 50, 60, or even 100 feet above where the river is now. Sometimes, you can spot logs and driftwood stuck in the crevices above, where floods have moved them.

About ten o'clock, Powell, Bradley, Howland, Hall, and I start

WATER BASIN IN GYPSUM CANYON.

Water basin in Gypsum Canyon.

220

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

up a side canyon to the east. We soon come to pools of water; then to a brook, which is lost in the sands below; and passing up the brook, we see that the canyon narrows, the walls close in and are often overhanging, and at last we find ourselves in a vast amphitheater, with a pool of deep, clear, cold water on the bottom. At first our way seems cut off; but we soon discover a little shelf, along which we climb, and, passing beyond the pool, walk a hundred yards or more, turn to the right, and find ourselves in another dome-shaped amphitheater. There is a winding cleft at the top, reaching out to the country above, nearly 2,000 feet overhead. The rounded, basin-shaped bottom is filled with water to the foot of the walls. There is no shelf by which we can pass around the foot. If we swim across we meet with a face of rock hundreds of feet high, over which a little rill glides, and it will be impossible to climb. So we can go no farther up this canyon. Then we turn back and examine the walls on either side carefully, to discover, if possible, some way of climbing out. In this search every man takes his own course, and we are scattered. I almost abandon the idea of getting out and am engaged in searching for fossils, when I discover, on the north, a broken place lip which it may be possible to climb. The way for a distance is up a slide of rocks; then up an irregular amphitheater, on points that form steps and give handhold; and then I reach a little shelf, along which I walk, and discover a vertical fissure parallel to the face of the wall and reaching to a higher shelf. This fissure is narrow and I try to climb up to the bench, which is about 40 feet overhead. I have a barometer on my back, which rather impedes my climbing. The walls of the fissure are of smooth limestone, offering neither foothold nor handhold. So I support myself by pressing my back against one wall and my knees against the other, and in this way lift my body, in a shuffling manner, a few inches at a time, until I have made perhaps 25 feet of the distance, when the crevice widens a little and I cannot press my knees against the rock in front with sufficient power to give me support in lifting my body; so I try to go back. This I cannot do without falling. So I struggle along sidewise farther into the crevice, where it narrows. But by this time my muscles are exhausted, and I cannot climb longer; so I move still a little farther into the crevice, where it is so narrow and wedging that I can lie in it, and there

up a side canyon to the east. We soon come to pools of water; then to a brook, which gets lost in the sands below; and as we follow the brook, we see the canyon narrow, the walls closing in and often overhanging, and finally we find ourselves in a vast amphitheater, with a pool of deep, clear, cold water at the bottom. At first, it seems like our way is cut off; but we soon spot a little ledge, which we climb, and after passing the pool, we walk a hundred yards or more, turn to the right, and find ourselves in another dome-shaped amphitheater. There's a winding crack at the top that leads out to the country above, nearly 2,000 feet overhead. The rounded, basin-shaped bottom is filled with water up to the walls. There’s no ledge we can use to go around the edge. If we swim across, we come to a rock face hundreds of feet high, over which a small stream flows, and it would be impossible to climb. So, we can’t go any farther up this canyon. Then we turn back and carefully examine the walls on either side, hoping to find a way to climb out. In this search, everyone goes their own way, and we scatter. I almost give up on the idea of getting out and start looking for fossils when I notice, to the north, a broken spot that might be climbable. The path for a ways is up a slide of rocks; then up an irregular amphitheater, using points that act like steps and provide handholds; and then I reach a little ledge, along which I walk, and discover a vertical crack parallel to the wall reaching up to a higher ledge. This crack is narrow, and I try to climb up to the ledge, which is about 40 feet above me. I have a barometer on my back, which makes climbing difficult. The walls of the crack are smooth limestone, giving me no foot or handholds. So, I brace myself by pressing my back against one wall and my knees against the other, and this way I lift my body, shuffling a few inches at a time, until I’ve gone maybe 25 feet up. When the crevice widens a little, I can’t press my knees against the rock in front with enough force to support lifting myself, so I try to go back. I can’t do that without falling. So, I struggle sideways further into the crevice, where it narrows. But by now, my muscles are exhausted, and I can’t climb any longer; so I move a bit farther into the crevice, where it’s so tight and wedged that I can lie down in it, and there

FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO.

221

I rest. Five or ten minutes of this relief, and up once more I go, and reach the bench above. On this I can walk for a quarter of a mile, till I come to a place where the wall is again broken down, so I can climb up still farther; and in an hour I reach the summit. I hang up my barometer to give it a few minutes' time to settle, and occupy myself in collecting resin from the piñón pines, which are found in great abundance. One of the principal objects in making this climb was to get this resin for the purpose of smearing our boats; but I have with me no means of carrying it down. The day is very hot and my coat was left in camp, so I have no linings to tear out. Then it occurs to me to cut off the sleeve of my shirt and tie it up at one end, and in this little sack I collect about a gallon of pitch. After taking observations for altitude, I wander back on the rock for an hour or two, when suddenly I notice that a storm is coming from the south. I seek a shelter in the rocks; but when the storm

I take a break. After five or ten minutes of this relief, I get back up and make my way to the bench above. From there, I can walk for a quarter of a mile until I reach a spot where the wall is broken again, allowing me to climb up even higher. In about an hour, I reach the top. I hang up my barometer to let it settle for a few minutes and start collecting resin from the piñón pines, which are plentiful here. One of my main reasons for making this climb was to gather this resin to coat our boats, but I don't have anything to carry it down with me. It's a really hot day, and I left my coat at camp, so I can't tear out any linings. Then I realize I can cut off the sleeve of my shirt, tie it up at one end, and use this little sack to collect about a gallon of pitch. After taking some altitude measurements, I explore the rocks for another hour or two, when I suddenly notice a storm approaching from the south. I look for shelter among the rocks, but when the storm

THE WATER POCKET CANYON.

The Water Pocket Canyon.

222

PLAN OF THE RUIN OF KIN-TIEL, NEAR TUSAYAN.

FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 223

bursts, it comes down as a flood from the heavens,--not with gentle drops at first, slowly increasing in quantity, but as if suddenly poured out. I am thoroughly drenched and almost washed away. It lasts not more than half an hour, when the clouds sweep by to the north and I have sunshine again.

bursts, it comes down like a flood from the sky—not with gentle drops at first, slowly getting heavier, but as if it's suddenly being dumped out. I am completely soaked and nearly washed away. It lasts no more than half an hour, when the clouds move north and I have sunshine again.

In the meantime I have discovered a better way of getting down, and start for camp, making the greatest haste possible. On reaching the bottom of the side canyon, I find a thousand streams rolling down the cliffs on every side, carrying with them red sand; and these all unite in the canyon below in one great stream of red mud.

In the meantime, I've found a quicker way to get down and head for camp, moving as fast as I can. When I get to the bottom of the side canyon, I see thousands of streams pouring down the cliffs from every direction, carrying red sand with them; all of these join together in the canyon below to form one huge stream of red mud.

Traveling as fast as I can run, I soon reach the foot of the stream, for the rain did not reach the lower end of the canyon and the water is running down a dry bed of sand; and although it conies in waves several feet high and 15 or 20 feet in width, the sands soak it up and it is lost. But wave follows wave and rolls along and is swallowed up; and still the floods come on from above. I find that I can travel faster than the stream; so I hasten to camp and tell the men there is a river coming down the canyon. We carry our camp equipage hastily from the bank to where we think it will be above the water. Then we stand by and see the river roll on to join the Colorado. Great quantities of gypsum are found at the bottom of the gorge; so we name it Gypsum Canyon.

Traveling as fast as I can run, I quickly reach the base of the stream because the rain didn't reach the lower end of the canyon, and the water is flowing down a dry sand bed. Even though the water comes in waves several feet high and 15 or 20 feet wide, the sand absorbs it, and it disappears. But one wave follows another, rolling along and disappearing; yet the floods keep coming from above. I realize I can move faster than the stream, so I rush to camp and tell the guys there's a river coming down the canyon. We quickly move our camp gear from the bank to where we think it will be safe from the water. Then we stand by and watch the river flow on to join the Colorado. Large amounts of gypsum are found at the bottom of the gorge, so we name it Gypsum Canyon.

July 27.--We have more rapids and falls until noon; then we come to a narrow place in the canyon, with vertical walls for several hundred feet, above which are steep steps and sloping rocks back to the summits. The river is very narrow, and we make our way with great care and much anxiety, hugging the wall on the left and carefully examining the way before us.

July 27.--We encounter more rapids and waterfalls until noon; then we reach a narrow section of the canyon, where the walls rise vertically for several hundred feet, topped by steep steps and sloping rocks leading back up to the summits. The river is very narrow, and we navigate it with great caution and concern, staying close to the left wall and carefully scouting our path ahead.

Late in the afternoon we pass to the left around a sharp point, which is somewhat broken down near the foot, and discover a flock of mountain sheep on the rocks more than a hundred feet above us. We land quickly in a cove out of sight, and away go all the hunters with their guns, for the sheep have not discovered us. Soon we hear firing, and those of us who have remained in the boats climb up to see what success the hunters have had. One sheep has been killed, and two of the men are still pursuing them. In a few minutes we hear firing again, and the next moment down come the flock clattering over the rocks within 20

Late in the afternoon, we turn left around a sharp point that’s somewhat eroded at the base and spot a herd of mountain sheep on the rocks more than a hundred feet above us. We quickly land in a hidden cove, and all the hunters grab their guns since the sheep haven't noticed us. Soon, we hear gunshots, and those of us who stayed in the boats climb up to check on the hunters' success. One sheep has been killed, and two men are still chasing after them. A few minutes later, we hear more gunfire, and suddenly, the flock comes crashing down over the rocks within 20

224 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

yards of us. One of the hunters seizes his gun and brings a second sheep down, and the next minute the remainder of the flock is lost behind the rocks. We all give chase; but it is impossible to follow their tracks over the naked rock, and we see them no more. Where they went out of this rock-walled canyon is a mystery, for we can see no way of escape. Doubtless, if we could spare the time for the search, we should find a gulch up which they ran.

yards of us. One of the hunters grabs his gun and takes down a second sheep, and the next moment, the rest of the flock disappears behind the rocks. We all start chasing them, but it’s impossible to follow their tracks on the bare rock, and we can’t see them anymore. How they got out of this rock-walled canyon is a mystery since there’s no visible escape route. Undoubtedly, if we had time to search, we would find a gully that they ran up.

We lash our prizes to the deck of one of the boats and go on for a short distance; but fresh meat is too tempting for us, and we stop early to have a feast. And a feast it is! Two fine young sheep! We care not for bread or beans or dried apples to-night; coffee and mutton are all we ask.

We tie our prizes to the deck of one of the boats and continue for a little while; but fresh meat is too tempting for us, and we stop early for a feast. And what a feast it is! Two lovely young sheep! We don’t care about bread or beans or dried apples tonight; all we want is coffee and mutton.

July 28.--We make two portages this morning, one of them very long. During the afternoon we run a chute more than half a mile in length, narrow and rapid. This chute has a floor of marble; the rocks dip in the direction in which we are going, and the fall of the stream conforms to the inclination of the beds; so we float on water that is gliding down an inclined plane. At the foot of the chute the river turns sharply to the right and the water rolls up against a rock which from above seems to stand directly athwart its course. As we approach it we pull with all our power to the right, but it seems impossible to avoid being carried headlong against the cliff; we are carried up high on the waves--but not against the rock, for the rebounding water strikes us and we are beaten back and pass on with safety, except that we get a good drenching.

July 28.--This morning, we carry our gear across two portages, one of which is quite long. In the afternoon, we navigate a chute that's over half a mile long, narrow and fast. The floor of this chute is made of marble; the rocks slope in the direction we’re headed, and the flow of the stream follows the angle of the beds, so we’re floating on water that’s sliding down an incline. At the end of the chute, the river bends sharply to the right, and the water crashes against a rock that looks like it's blocking our path from above. As we get closer, we pull hard to the right, but it seems impossible to avoid crashing into the cliff; we’re lifted high on the waves—but we don’t hit the rock because the rebounding water pushes us back, and we pass through safely, though we get completely soaked.

225

After this the walls suddenly close in, so that the canyon is narrower than we have ever known it. The water fills it from wall to wall, giving us no landing-place at the foot of the cliff; the river is very swift and the canyon very tortuous, so that we can see but a few hundred yards ahead; the walls tower over us, often overhanging so as almost to shut out the light. I stand on deck, watching with intense anxiety, lest this may lead us into some danger; but we glide along, with no obstruction, no falls, no rocks, and in a mile and a half emerge from the narrow gorge into a more open and broken portion of the canyon. Now that it is past, it seems a very simple thing indeed to run through such a place, but the fear of what might be ahead made a deep impression on us.

After this, the walls suddenly close in, making the canyon narrower than we’ve ever experienced. The water fills it from side to side, leaving us with no place to land at the base of the cliff; the river flows rapidly and the canyon twists so much that we can only see a few hundred yards ahead. The walls loom over us, often overhanging and nearly blocking out the light. I stand on deck, watching with intense worry, fearful that this might lead us into some danger; but we glide along without any obstacles, no waterfalls, no rocks, and after a mile and a half, we emerge from the narrow gorge into a more open and rugged section of the canyon. Now that it’s behind us, it seems very straightforward to navigate through such a spot, but the fear of what could have been ahead left a lasting impression on us.

225

PESCADO HOUSES.

Fish Houses.

226

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

At three o'clock we arrive at the foot of Cataract Canyon. Here a long canyon valley comes down from the east, and the river turns sharply to the west in a continuation of the line of the lateral valley. In the bend on the right vast numbers of crags and pinnacles and tower-shaped rocks are seen. We call it Mille Crag Bend.

At three o'clock, we reach the base of Cataract Canyon. Here, a long canyon valley flows down from the east, and the river makes a sharp turn to the west, following the line of the side valley. In the bend on the right, there are countless crags, pinnacles, and tower-like rocks visible. We refer to it as Mille Crag Bend.

And now we wheel into another canyon, on swift water unobstructed by rocks. This new canyon is very narrow and very straight, with walls vertical below and terraced above. Where we enter it the brink of

And now we glide into another canyon, on fast water clear of rocks. This new canyon is very narrow and straight, with vertical walls below and stepped ledges above. Where we enter it, the edge of

REPAIRING BOATS AT THE MOUTH OF DIRTY DEVIL RIVER.

the cliff is 1,300 feet above the water, but the rocks dip to the west, and as the course of the canyon is in that direction the walls are seen slowly to decrease in altitude. Floating down this narrow channel and looking

the cliff is 1,300 feet above the water, but the rocks slope to the west, and since the canyon runs that way, the walls gradually drop in height. Drifting down this narrow channel and looking

PROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 227

out through the canyon crevice away in the distance, the river is seen to turn again to the left, and beyond this point, away many miles, a great mountain is seen. Still floating down, we see other mountains, now on the right, now on the left, until a great mountain range is unfolded to view. We name this Narrow Canyon, and it terminates at the bend of the river below.

out through the canyon crevice in the distance, the river can be seen turning to the left again, and beyond this point, many miles away, there's a great mountain. Still drifting down, we notice other mountains, now on the right, now on the left, until a vast mountain range comes into view. We call this Narrow Canyon, and it ends at the bend of the river below.

As we go down to this point we discover the mouth of a stream which enters from the right. Into this our little boat is turned. The water is exceedingly muddy and has an unpleasant odor. One of the men in the boat following, seeing what we have done, shouts to 'Dunn and asks whether it is a trout stream. Dunn replies, much disgusted, that it is "a dirty devil," and by this name the river is to be known hereafter.

As we reach this point, we find the mouth of a stream coming in from the right. We steer our little boat into it. The water is really muddy and smells bad. One of the guys in the boat behind us, seeing what we've done, shouts to Dunn and asks if it's a trout stream. Dunn replies, clearly disgusted, that it's "a dirty devil," and from now on, that's what the river will be called.

Some of us go out for half a mile and climb a butte to the north. The course of the Dirty Devil River can be traced for many miles. It comes down through a very narrow canyon, and beyond it, to the southwest, there is a long line of cliffs, with a broad terrace, or bench, between it and the brink of the canyon, and beyond these cliffs is situated the range of mountains seen as we came down Narrow Canyon. Looking up the Colorado, the chasm through which it runs can be seen, but we cannot see down to its waters. The whole country is a region of naked rock of many colors, with cliffs and buttes about us and towering mountains in the distance.

Some of us walk out for half a mile and climb a butte to the north. The Dirty Devil River can be followed for many miles. It flows through a very narrow canyon, and beyond that, to the southwest, there's a long line of cliffs with a wide terrace or bench between it and the edge of the canyon. Beyond these cliffs is the range of mountains we saw as we came down Narrow Canyon. Looking up the Colorado, we can see the chasm it flows through, but we can't see down to its waters. The entire area is made up of bare rock in various colors, with cliffs and buttes surrounding us and towering mountains in the distance.

July 29.--We enter a canyon to-day, with low, red walls. A short distance below its head we discover the ruins of an old building on the left wall. There is a narrow plain between the river and the wall just here, and on the brink of a rock 200 feet high stands this old house. Its walls are of stone, laid in mortar with much regularity. It was probably built three stories high; the lower story is yet almost intact; the second is much broken down, and scarcely anything is left of the third. Great quantities of flint chips are found on the rocks near by, and many arrowheads, some perfect, others broken; and fragments of pottery are strewn about in great profusion. On the face of the cliff, under the building and along down the river for 200 or 300 yards, there are many etchings. Two hours are given to the examination of these interesting ruins; then we run down fifteen miles farther, and discover another group. The principal building was situated on the summit of the hill.

July 29.--Today, we enter a canyon with low, red walls. A short distance below the entrance, we find the remains of an old building on the left wall. There’s a narrow strip of land between the river and the wall at this spot, and on the edge of a 200-foot-high rock stands this old house. Its walls are made of stone, laid in mortar with impressive regularity. It was probably three stories tall; the ground floor is still nearly intact, the second is mostly collapsed, and barely anything remains of the third. There are a lot of flint chips scattered on the nearby rocks, along with many arrowheads—some whole, others broken—and bits of pottery are spread around in abundance. On the cliff face, beneath the building and extending down the river for 200 to 300 yards, there are numerous carvings. We spend two hours exploring these fascinating ruins; then we continue down the river for another fifteen miles and find another group. The main building was located at the top of the hill.

228

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

A part of the walls are standing, to the height of eight or ten feet, and the mortar yet remains in some places. The house was in the shape of an L, with five rooms on the ground floor,--one in the angle and two in each extension. In the space in the angle there is a deep excavation. From what we know of the people in the Province of Tusayan, who are, doubtless, of the same race as the former inhabitants of these ruins, we conclude that this was a kiva, or underground chamber in which their religious ceremonies were performed.

A portion of the walls still stands, reaching heights of eight to ten feet, and the mortar remains in some spots. The house was shaped like an L, with five rooms on the ground floor—one in the corner and two in each extension. In the corner space, there is a deep excavation. From what we know about the people in the Province of Tusayan, who are likely of the same ancestry as the previous inhabitants of these ruins, we conclude that this was a kiva, or an underground chamber where their religious ceremonies took place.

We leave these ruins and run down two or three miles and go into camp about mid-afternoon. And now I climb the wall and go out into the back country for a walk.

We leave these ruins and run for two or three miles, setting up camp around mid-afternoon. Now, I climb the wall and head out into the countryside for a walk.

The sandstone through which the canyon is cut is red and homogeneous, being the same as that through which Labyrinth Canyon runs. The smooth, naked rock stretches out on either side of the river for many miles, but curiously carved mounds and cones are scattered everywhere and deep holes are worn out. Many of these pockets are filled with water. In one of these holes or wells, 20 feet deep, I find a tree growing. The excavation is so narrow that I can step from its brink to a limb on the tree and descend to the bottom of the well down a growing ladder. Many of these pockets

The sandstone that forms the canyon is red and uniform, similar to the rock in Labyrinth Canyon. The smooth, bare rock extends for miles on both sides of the river, but there are oddly shaped mounds and cones scattered everywhere, along with deep holes worn into the surface. Many of these holes are filled with water. In one of these 20-foot-deep holes, I discover a tree growing. The opening is so narrow that I can step from the edge to a branch on the tree and climb down to the bottom of the hole using the tree as a ladder. Many of these pockets

RUINS ON THE BRINK OF GLEN CANYON.

RUINS ON THE EDGE OF GLEN CANYON.

FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 229

are potholes, being found in the courses of little rills or brooks that run during the rains which occasionally fall in this region; and often a few harder rocks, which evidently assisted in their excavation, can be found in their bottoms. Others, which are shallower, are not so easily explained. Perhaps where they are found softer spots existed in the sandstone, places that yielded more readily to atmospheric degradation, the loose sands being carried away by the winds.

are potholes, typically found in the paths of small streams or brooks that flow during the rain that sometimes falls in this area; and often a few tougher rocks, which clearly helped in their formation, can be found at the bottom. Others, which are shallower, aren’t as easy to explain. Maybe they formed in softer areas of the sandstone, spots that were more vulnerable to weathering, with the loose sand being blown away by the wind.

Just before sundown I attempt to climb a rounded eminence, from which I hope to obtain a good outlook on the surrounding country. It is formed of smooth mounds, piled one above another. Up these I climb, winding here and there to find a practicable way, until near the summit they become too steep for me to proceed. I search about a few minutes for an easier way, when I am surprised at finding a stairway, evidently cut in the rock by hands. At one place, where there is a vertical wall of 10 or 12 feet, I find an old, rickety ladder. It may be that this was a watchtower of that ancient people whose homes we have found in ruins. On many of the tributaries of the Colorado, I have heretofore examined their deserted dwellings. Those that show evidences of being built during the latter part of their occupation of the country are usually placed on the most inaccessible cliffs. Sometimes the mouths of caves have been walled across, and there are many other evidences to show their anxiety to secure defensible positions. Probably the nomadic tribes were sweeping down upon them and they resorted to these cliffs and canyons for safety. It is not unreasonable to suppose that this orange mound was used as a watchtower. Here I stand, where these now lost people stood centuries ago, and look over this strange country, gazing off to great mountains in the northwest which are slowly disappearing under cover of the night; and then I return to camp. It is no easy task to find my way down the wall in the darkness, and I clamber about until it is nearly midnight when camp is reached.

Just before sunset, I try to climb a rounded hill, hoping to get a good view of the surrounding area. It's made up of smooth mounds stacked on top of each other. I wind my way up, looking for an easier path, but near the top it gets too steep for me to go any further. After searching for a few minutes for a simpler way, I’m surprised to find a stairway, clearly carved into the rock by someone’s hands. At one point, where there's a vertical wall about 10 or 12 feet high, I discover an old, shaky ladder. This might have been a watchtower for the ancient people whose homes we've found in ruins. I've examined their abandoned dwellings along many of the tributaries of the Colorado. Those that appear to have been built towards the end of their occupation are often located on the most hard-to-reach cliffs. Sometimes cave entrances have been walled up, showing their desire to secure defensible positions. It’s likely that nomadic tribes were attacking them, prompting them to seek refuge in these cliffs and canyons. It’s not far-fetched to think this orange mound was used as a watchtower. Standing here where these long-lost people stood centuries ago, I look over this strange land, gazing at the distant mountains in the northwest that are gradually disappearing as night falls; then I head back to camp. Finding my way down the wall in the darkness isn’t easy, and I stumble around until it’s nearly midnight when I finally reach camp.

July 30.--We make good progress to-day, as the water, though smooth, is swift. Sometimes the canyon walls are vertical to the top; sometimes they are vertical below and have a mound-covered slope above; in other places the slope, with its mounds, comes down to the water's edge.

July 30.-- We're making good progress today since the water, while calm, is fast. At times, the canyon walls rise straight up to the top; at other times, they are steep below and have a slope covered in mounds above; in other areas, the slope with its mounds reaches right down to the water's edge.

Still proceeding on our way, we find that the orange sandstone is cut in two by a group of firm, calcareous strata, and the lower bed is under-

Still moving along our path, we see that the orange sandstone is split in two by a group of solid, chalky layers, and the lower layer is beneath

230 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

laid by soft, gypsiferous shales. Sometimes the upper homogeneous bed is a smooth, vertical wall, but usually it is carved with mounds, with gently meandering valley lines. The lower bed, yielding to gravity, as the softer shales below work, out into the river, breaks into angular surfaces, often having a columnar appearance. One could almost imagine that the walls had been carved with a purpose, to represent giant architectural forms. In the deep recesses of the walls we find springs, with mosses and ferns on the moistened sandstone.

laid by soft, gypsum-rich shales. Sometimes the upper uniform layer forms a smooth, vertical wall, but usually it features mounds and gently winding valley lines. The lower layer, giving way to gravity as the softer shales below erode into the river, breaks into angular surfaces, often resembling columns. One could almost picture that the walls were shaped intentionally to mimic giant architectural structures. In the deep recesses of the walls, we find springs, with moss and ferns growing on the damp sandstone.

July 31.--We have a cool, pleasant ride to-day through this part of the canyon. The walls are steadily increasing in altitude, the curves are gentle, and often the river sweeps by an arc of vertical wall, smooth and unbroken, and then by a curve that is variegated by royal arches, mossy alcoves, deep, beautiful glens, and painted grottoes. Soon after dinner we discover the mouth of the San Juan, where we camp. The remainder of the afternoon is given to hunting some way by which we can climb out of the canyon; but it ends in failure.

July 31.--Today, we had a cool and enjoyable ride through this part of the canyon. The walls are getting higher, the curves are gentle, and often the river flows alongside a vertical wall that is smooth and unbroken, followed by a bend that features majestic arches, mossy alcoves, beautiful glens, and colorful caves. Shortly after dinner, we find the mouth of the San Juan, where we set up camp. The rest of the afternoon is spent trying to figure out a way to climb out of the canyon, but we end up unsuccessful.

August 1.--We drop down two miles this morning and go into camp again. There is a low, willow-covered strip of land along the walls on the east. Across this we walk, to explore an alcove which we see from the river. On entering, we find a little grove of box-elder and cotton-wood trees, and turning to the right, we find ourselves in a vast chamber, carved out of the rock. At the upper end there is a clear, deep pool of water, bordered with verdure. Standing by the side of this, we can see the grove at the entrance. The chamber is more than 200 feet high, 500 feet long, and 200 feet wide. Through the ceiling, and on through the rocks for a thousand feet above, there is a narrow, winding skylight; and this is all carved out by a little stream which runs only during the few showers that fall now and then in this arid country. The waters from the bare rocks back of the canyon, gathering rapidly into a small channel, have eroded a deep side canyon, through which they run until they fall into the farther end of this chamber. The rock at the ceiling is hard, the rock below, very soft and friable; and having cut through the upper and harder portion down into the lower and softer, the stream has washed out these friable sandstones; and thus the chamber has been excavated.

August 1.-- We travel down two miles this morning and set up camp again. There’s a low strip of land covered in willows along the eastern walls. We walk across this to check out an alcove we spotted from the river. Upon entering, we discover a small grove of box-elder and cottonwood trees, and as we turn right, we find ourselves in a huge chamber carved out of rock. At the far end, there’s a clear, deep pool of water bordered by greenery. Standing beside it, we can see the grove at the entrance. The chamber is over 200 feet high, 500 feet long, and 200 feet wide. A narrow, winding skylight runs through the ceiling and extends for a thousand feet above into the rocks. This has all been sculpted by a small stream that only flows during the occasional showers that fall in this dry area. Water from the bare rocks behind the canyon quickly gathers into a small channel, creating a deep side canyon through which it flows before falling into the far end of this chamber. The rock at the ceiling is hard, while the rock below is very soft and crumbly; as the stream cuts through the tougher upper layer into the softer lower layer, it has washed away these fragile sandstones, forming the chamber.

Here we bring our camp. When "Old Shady" sings us a song at

Here we set up our camp. When "Old Shady" sings us a song at

FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO.

231

night, we are pleased to find that this hollow in the rock is filled with sweet sounds. It was doubtless made for an academy of music by its storm-born architect; so we name it Music Temple.

night, we’re happy to discover that this hollow in the rock is filled with sweet sounds. It was probably created for a music academy by its storm-born architect; so we call it the Music Temple.

August 2.--We still keep our camp in Music Temple to-day. I wish to obtain a view of the adjacent country, if possible; so, early in the morning the men take me across the river, and I pass along by the foot of the cliff half a mile up stream and then climb, first up broken ledges, then 200 or 300 yards up a smooth, sloping rock, and then pass out on a narrow ridge. Still, I find I have not attained an altitude from which I can overlook the region outside of the canyon; and so I descend into a little gulch and climb again to a higher ridge, all the way along naked sandstone, and at last I reach a point of commanding view. I can look several miles up the San Juan, and a long distance up the Colorado; and away to the northwest I can see the Henry Mountains; to the northeast, the Sierra La Sal; to the southeast, unknown mountains; and to the southwest, the meandering of the canyon. Then I return to the bank of the river. We sleep again in Music Temple.

August 2.-- We're still camped at Music Temple today. I want to get a view of the surrounding area if I can, so early in the morning the guys take me across the river. I walk along the base of the cliff for half a mile upstream, and then I climb up broken ledges, then 200 or 300 yards up a smooth, sloping rock, and finally emerge onto a narrow ridge. However, I still haven't reached a height where I can see the area beyond the canyon, so I head down into a small gulch and climb again to a higher ridge, all the while on bare sandstone. Eventually, I reach a spot with a stunning view. I can see several miles up the San Juan and a long stretch up the Colorado; to the northwest, the Henry Mountains are visible; to the northeast, the Sierra La Sal; to the southeast, there are mountains I don't recognize; and to the southwest, the winding canyon. After that, I make my way back to the riverbank. We sleep at Music Temple again.

August 3.--Start early this morning. The features of this canyon are greatly diversified. Still vertical walls at times. These are usually found to stand above great curves. The river, sweeping around these

August 3.--Started early this morning. The landscape of this canyon is very varied. There are still vertical walls at times. These generally appear above large curves. The river flows around these

ISLAND MONUMENT IN GLEN CANYON.

Island Monument in Glen Canyon.

232

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

bends, undermines the cliffs in places. Sometimes the rocks are overhanging; in other curves, curious, narrow glens are found. Through these we climb, by a rough stairway, perhaps several hundred feet, to where a spring bursts out from under an overhanging cliff, and where cottonwoods and willows stand, while along the curves of the brooklet oaks grow, and other rich vegetation is seen, in marked contrast to the general appearance of naked rock. We call these Oak Glens.

bends, erodes the cliffs in some spots. Sometimes the rocks jut out; in other bends, there are interesting, narrow valleys. We climb through these, up a rough staircase, maybe several hundred feet, to where a spring flows out from underneath a jutting cliff, where cottonwoods and willows grow, while along the bends of the small stream, oaks thrive, and other lush plants are visible, standing in stark contrast to the overall look of bare rock. We call these Oak Glens.

Other wonderful features are the many side canyons or gorges that we pass. Sometimes we stop to explore these for a short distance. In some places their walls are much nearer each other above than below, so that they look somewhat like caves or chambers in the rocks. Usually, in going up such a gorge, we find beautiful vegetation; but our way is often cut off by deep basins, or "potholes," as they are called.

Other great features are the many side canyons or gorges we pass by. Sometimes we stop to explore these for a little while. In some spots, their walls are much closer together at the top than at the bottom, making them look a bit like caves or chambers in the rocks. Usually, as we go up a gorge, we find beautiful plants; however, our path is often blocked by deep basins, or "potholes," as they’re called.

On the walls, and back many miles into the country, numbers of monument-shaped buttes are observed. So we have a curious ensemble of wonderful features--carved walls, royal arches, glens, alcove gulches,

On the walls, and extending many miles into the countryside, you can see a lot of monument-shaped buttes. So we have a fascinating ensemble of amazing features—carved walls, majestic arches, valleys, and alcove canyons,

GLEN CANYON.

Glen Canyon.

FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 233

mounds, and monuments. From which of these features shall we select a name? We decide to call it Glen Canyon.

mounds, and monuments. Which of these features should we choose a name from? We've decided to call it Glen Canyon.

Past these towering monuments, past these mounded billows of orange sandstone, past these oak-set glens, past these fern-decked alcoves, past these mural curves, we glide hour after hour, stopping now and then, as our attention is arrested by some new wonder, until we reach a point which is historic.

Past these towering monuments, past these large piles of orange sandstone, past these oak-filled valleys, past these fern-covered nooks, past these winding shapes, we move on hour after hour, pausing occasionally as we become captivated by some new marvel, until we arrive at a site of historic significance.

In the year 1776, Father Escalante, a Spanish priest, made an expedition from Santa Fe to the northwest, crossing the Grand and Green, and then passing down along the Wasatch Mountains and the southern plateaus until he reached the Rio Virgen. His intention was to cross to the Mission of Monterey; but, from information received from the Indians, he decided that the route was impracticable. Not wishing to return to Santa Fe over the circuitous route by which he had just traveled, he attempted to go by one more direct, which led him across the Colorado at a point known as El Vado de los Padres. From the description which we have read, we are enabled to determine the place. A little stream comes down through a very narrow side canyon from the west. It was down this that he came, and our boats are lying at the point where the ford crosses. A well-beaten Indian trail is seen here yet. Between the cliff and the river there is a little meadow. The ashes of many camp fires are seen, and the bones of numbers of cattle are bleaching on the grass. For several years the Navajos have raided on the Mormons that dwell in the valleys to the west, and they doubtless cross frequently at this ford with their stolen cattle.

In 1776, Father Escalante, a Spanish priest, set out on an expedition from Santa Fe to the northwest, crossing the Grand and Green Rivers. He then traveled along the Wasatch Mountains and the southern plateaus until he reached the Rio Virgen. His goal was to reach the Mission of Monterey, but after speaking with the Native Americans, he realized the route was not feasible. Not wanting to return to Santa Fe via the long route he had just taken, he tried a more direct path that took him across the Colorado River at a spot known as El Vado de los Padres. Based on the description we have, we can identify the location. A small stream flows through a very narrow side canyon from the west. It was down this canyon that he came, and our boats are currently at the point where the river can be forded. A well-used Indian trail is still visible here. Between the cliff and the river, there’s a little meadow. You can see the ashes of many campfires and the bones of several cattle bleaching in the grass. For several years, the Navajos have been raiding the Mormons living in the valleys to the west, and they probably cross this ford often with their stolen cattle.

August 4.--To-day the walls grow higher and the canyon much narrower. Monuments are still seen on either side; beautiful glens and alcoves and gorges and side canyons are yet found. After dinner we find the river making a sudden turn to the northwest and the whole character of the canyon changed. The walls are many hundreds of feet higher, and the rocks are chiefly variegated shales of beautiful colors--creamy orange above, then bright vermilion, and below, purple and chocolate beds, with green and yellow sands. We run four miles through this, in a direction a little to the west of north, wheel again to the west, and pass into a portion of the canyon where the characteristics are more like those above the bend. At night we stop at the mouth of

August 4.--Today, the walls are getting taller and the canyon much narrower. We can still see monuments on both sides; there are beautiful glens, alcoves, gorges, and side canyons. After lunch, we notice the river making a sharp turn to the northwest, completely changing the character of the canyon. The walls rise many hundreds of feet higher, and the rocks are mostly colorful shales with striking hues—creamy orange on top, followed by bright vermilion, and below that, purple and chocolate layers, along with green and yellow sands. We travel four miles through this area, heading slightly northwest, then turn west again and enter a section of the canyon that resembles the area above the bend. At night, we stop at the mouth of

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Colorado Canyons.

a creek coming in from the right, and suppose it to be the Paria, which was described to me last year by a Mormon missionary. Here the canyon terminates abruptly in a line of cliffs, which stretches from either side across the river.

a creek coming in from the right, and let's say it’s the Paria, which a Mormon missionary told me about last year. Here the canyon ends suddenly with a line of cliffs that stretches from one side to the other across the river.

August 5.--With some feeling of anxiety we enter a new canyon this morning. We have learned to observe closely the texture of the rock. In softer strata we have a quiet river, in harder we find rapids and falls. Below us are the limestones and hard sandstones which we found in Cataract Canyon. This bodes toil and danger. Besides the texture of the rocks, there is another condition which affects the character of the channel, as we have found by experience. Where the strata are horizontal the river is often quiet, and, even though it may be very swift in places, no great obstacles are found. Where the rocks incline in the direction traveled, the river usually sweeps with great velocity, but still has few rapids and falls. But where the rocks dip up stream and the river cuts obliquely across the upturned formations, harder strata above and softer below, we have rapids and falls. Into hard rocks and into rocks dipping up stream we pass this morning and start on a long, rocky, mad rapid. On the left there is a vertical rock, and down by this cliff and around to the left we glide, tossed just enough by the waves to appreciate the rate at which we are traveling.

August 5.--Feeling a bit anxious, we entered a new canyon this morning. We've learned to closely observe the texture of the rock. In softer layers, the river flows calmly, while in harder ones, we encounter rapids and falls. Below us are the limestones and hard sandstones we found in Cataract Canyon. This suggests hard work and potential danger. Aside from the rock texture, there's another factor that influences the channel's character, as we've learned from experience. When the layers are horizontal, the river tends to be calm, and even if it’s fast in some areas, there aren't many major obstacles. When the rocks tilt in the direction we’re going, the river usually flows quickly but still has few rapids and falls. However, where the rocks slope upstream and the river cuts across the tilted formations, with harder layers above and softer ones below, we find rapids and falls. This morning, we’re passing into hard rocks and those that tilt upstream as we start on a long, rocky, chaotic rapid. On the left, there's a vertical rock, and we glide past this cliff and to the left, tossed just enough by the waves to feel how fast we're moving.

235

The canyon is narrow, with vertical walls, which gradually grow higher. More rapids and falls are found. We come to one with a drop of sixteen feet, around which we make a portage, and then stop for dinner. Then a run of two miles, and another portage, long and difficult; then we camp for the night on a bank of sand.

The canyon is narrow, with steep walls that gradually get taller. We encounter more rapids and waterfalls. We arrive at one with a drop of sixteen feet, which we navigate around, and then we stop for dinner. After that, we paddle for two miles and face another long and challenging portage; then we set up camp for the night on a sandy bank.

August 6.--Canyon walls, still higher and higher, as we go down through strata. There is a steep talus at the foot of the cliff, and in some places the upper parts of the walls are terraced.

August 6.--Canyon walls rise higher and higher as we descend through the layers. There's a steep slope at the base of the cliff, and in some areas, the upper parts of the walls are tiered.

About ten o'clock we come to a place where the river occupies the entire channel and the walls are vertical from the water's edge. We see a fall below and row up against the cliff. There is a little shelf, or rather a horizontal crevice, a few feet over our heads. One man stands on the deck of the boat, another climbs on his shoulders, and then into the crevice. Then we pass him a line, and two or three others, with myself, follow; then we pass along the crevice until it becomes a shelf, as

About ten o'clock, we reach a spot where the river fills the entire channel and the walls rise straight up from the water's edge. Below us, we can see a waterfall, and we paddle up against the cliff. There's a small ledge, or more like a horizontal crack, a few feet above our heads. One guy stands on the boat deck, another climbs onto his shoulders, and then into the crack. We toss him a rope, and two or three others, including me, follow him; then we move along the crack until it turns into a ledge, as

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AN ENCLOSING WALL OF UPRIGHT STONES AT OJO CALIENTE.

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COLORADO CANYONS.

the upper part, or roof, is broken off. On this we walk for a short distance, slowly climbing all the way, until we reach a point where the shelf is broken off, and we can pass no farther. So we go back to the boat, cross the stream, and get some logs that have lodged in the rocks, bring them to our side, pass them along the crevice and shelf, and bridge over the broken place. Then we go on to a point over the falls, but do not obtain a satisfactory view. So we climb out to the top of the wall and walk along to find a point below the fall from which it can be seen. From this point it seems possible to let down our boats with lines to the head of the rapids, and then make a portage; so we return, row down by the side of the cliff as far as we dare, and fasten one of the boats to a rock. Then we let down another boat to the end of its line beyond the first, and the third boat to the end of its line below the second, which brings it to the head of the fall and under an overhanging rock. Then the upper boat, in obedience to a signal, lets go; we pull in the line and catch the nearest boat as it comes, and then the last. The portage follows.

the upper part, or roof, is broken off. We walk on this for a short distance, slowly climbing all the way until we reach a point where the shelf is broken and we can't go any further. So, we head back to the boat, cross the stream, and gather some logs that are stuck in the rocks, bringing them to our side, passing them along the crevice and shelf to cover the broken spot. Then we move on to a spot above the falls, but we don’t get a clear view. So we climb to the top of the wall and walk along to find a spot below the fall where we can see it. From this spot, it seems possible to lower our boats with lines to the head of the rapids and then carry them overland; so we go back, row down by the cliff as far as we can, and tie one of the boats to a rock. Then we lower another boat to the end of its line beyond the first, and the third boat to the end of its line below the second, bringing it to the head of the fall and under an overhanging rock. Then the upper boat, following a signal, releases; we pull in the line and catch the nearest boat as it comes, and then the last one. The portage follows.

We go into camp early this afternoon at a place where it seems possible to climb out, and the evening is spent in "making observations for time."

We set up camp early this afternoon at a spot that looks like we can climb out, and we spend the evening "keeping track of time."

MARBLE CANYON.

Marble Canyon.

FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 237

August 7.--The almanac tells us that we are to have an eclipse of the sun to-day; so Captain Powell and myself start early, taking our instruments with us for the purpose of making observations on the eclipse to determine our longitude. Arriving at the summit, after four hours' hard climbing to attain 2,300 feet in height, we hurriedly build a platform of rocks on which to place our instruments, and quietly wait for the eclipse; but clouds come on and rain falls, and sun and moon are obscured.

August 7.--The almanac says there's going to be a solar eclipse today, so Captain Powell and I head out early, bringing our instruments to observe the eclipse and figure out our longitude. After a tough four-hour climb to reach an elevation of 2,300 feet, we quickly build a platform out of rocks to set up our instruments and patiently wait for the eclipse; however, clouds roll in and it starts to rain, hiding both the sun and the moon.

Much disappointed, we start on our return to camp, but it is late and the clouds make the night very dark. We feel our way down among the rocks with great care for two or three hours, making slow progress indeed. At last we lose our way and dare proceed no farther. The rain comes down in torrents and we can find no shelter. We can neither climb up nor go down, and in the darkness dare not move about; so we sit and "weather out" the night.

Much disappointed, we begin our return to camp, but it's late, and the clouds make the night very dark. We carefully feel our way among the rocks for two or three hours, making very slow progress. Finally, we lose our way and can't go any farther. The rain pours down in torrents, and we can't find any shelter. We can't climb up or go down, and in the darkness, we're too afraid to move around; so we sit and wait out the night.

August 8.--Daylight comes after a long, oh, how long! a night, and we soon reach camp. After breakfast we start again, and make two portages during the forenoon.

August 8.--Daylight arrives after a long, oh, so long! night, and we quickly arrive at camp. After breakfast, we set out again and make two portages in the morning.

The limestone of this canyon is often polished, and makes a beautiful marble. Sometimes the rocks are of many colors--white, gray, pink, and purple, with saffron tints. It is with very great labor that we make progress, meeting with many obstructions, running rapids, letting down our boats with lines from rock to rock, and sometimes carrying boats and cargoes around bad places. We camp at night, just after a hard portage, under an overhanging wall, glad to find shelter from the rain. We have to search for some time to find a few sticks of driftwood, just sufficient to boil a cup of coffee.

The limestone in this canyon is often smooth and looks like beautiful marble. Sometimes the rocks come in many colors—white, gray, pink, and purple, with hints of yellow. We make slow progress due to many obstacles, navigating through rapids, lowering our boats from rock to rock using ropes, and sometimes carrying boats and supplies around tough spots. At night, after a challenging hike with our gear, we camp under a ledge, relieved to find some shelter from the rain. We spend some time searching for a few pieces of driftwood, just enough to boil a cup of coffee.

The water sweeps rapidly in this elbow of river, and has cut its way under the rock, excavating a vast half-circular chamber, which, if utilized for a theater, would give sitting to 50,000 people. Objection might be raised against it, however, for at high water the floor is covered with a raging flood.

The water rushes quickly in this bend of the river and has carved out a large half-circle chamber beneath the rock, which, if used as a theater, could seat 50,000 people. However, there could be concerns about it, as the floor gets submerged under a violent flood during high water.

August 9.--And now the scenery is on a grand scale. The walls of the canyon, 2,500 feet high, are of marble, of many beautiful colors, often polished below by the waves, and sometimes far up the sides, where showers have washed the sands over the cliffs. At one place I

August 9.--And now the scenery is truly breathtaking. The canyon walls, towering 2,500 feet high, are made of marble in various beautiful colors, often polished by the waves at the bottom and sometimes even higher up the sides, where rain has washed the sand over the cliffs. At one spot I

238 8 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

have a walk for more than a mile on a marble pavement, all polished and fretted with strange devices and embossed in a thousand fantastic patterns. Through a cleft in the wall the sun shines on this pavement and it gleams in iridescent beauty.

have a walk for more than a mile on a marble path, all polished and decorated with strange designs and embossed in a thousand incredible patterns. Through a crack in the wall, the sun shines on this path and it glows with iridescent beauty.

I pass up into the cleft. It is very narrow, with a succession of pools standing at higher levels as I go back. The water in these pools is clear and cool, coming down from springs. Then I return to the pavement, which is but a terrace or bench, over which the river runs at its flood, but left bare at present. Along the pavement in many places are basins of clear water, in strange contrast to the red mud of the river. At length I come to the end of this marble terrace and take again to the boat.

I climb up into the crack. It’s really narrow, with a series of pools higher up as I go further in. The water in these pools is clear and cool, coming from springs. Then I head back to the pavement, which is just a ledge or bench that the river flows over when it's at its peak, but it's exposed right now. Along the pavement, there are lots of basins of clear water, a striking contrast to the red mud of the river. Finally, I reach the end of this marble terrace and get back into the boat.

Riding down a short distance, a beautiful view is presented. The river turns sharply to the east and seems inclosed by a wall set with a million brilliant gems. What can it mean? Every eye is engaged, every one wonders. On coming nearer we find fountains bursting from the rock high overhead, and the spray in the sunshine forms the gems which bedeck the wall. The rocks below the fountain are covered with mosses and ferns and many beautiful flowering plants. We name it Vasey's Paradise, in honor of the botanist who traveled with us last year.

Riding down a short distance, a stunning view unfolds. The river bends sharply to the east and appears to be surrounded by a wall adorned with a million sparkling gems. What could it signify? Everyone is captivated, and curiosity fills the air. As we get closer, we see fountains bursting from the rock high above, and the sunlight creates the gems that decorate the wall. The rocks beneath the fountain are covered with moss, ferns, and many beautiful flowering plants. We call it Vasey's Paradise, in honor of the botanist who traveled with us last year.

We pass many side canyons to-day that are dark, gloomy passages back into the heart of the rocks that form the plateau through which this canyon is cut. It rains again this afternoon. Scarcely do the first drops fall when little rills run down the walls. As the storm comes on, the little rills increase in size, until great streams are formed. Although the walls of the canyon are chiefly limestone, the adjacent country is of red sandstone; and now the waters, loaded with these sands, come down in rivers of bright red mud, leaping over the walls in innumerable cascades. It is plain now how these walls are polished in many places.

We pass by many side canyons today that are dark, gloomy passages leading back into the heart of the rocks that make up the plateau this canyon cuts through. It starts raining again this afternoon. Hardly have the first drops fallen when little streams begin to run down the walls. As the storm intensifies, these small streams grow larger until they become rushing rivers. While the canyon walls are mainly limestone, the surrounding area is made of red sandstone; now the water, carrying this sand, flows down in rivers of bright red mud, cascading over the walls in countless waterfalls. It's clear now how some of these walls have been polished in many spots.

At last the storm ceases and we go on. We have cut through the sandstones and limestones met in the upper part of the canyon, and through one great bed of marble a thousand feet in thickness. In this, great numbers of caves are hollowed out, and carvings are seen which suggest architectural forms, though on a scale so grand that architec-

At last, the storm stops, and we continue on. We’ve passed through the sandstones and limestones found in the upper part of the canyon, and cut through a massive layer of marble that's a thousand feet thick. In this marble, there are numerous caves, and the carvings suggest architectural shapes, although on a scale so grand that architects...

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NOONDAY REST IN MARBLE CANYON.

Noon break in Marble Canyon.

240

VIEW OF MARBLE CANYON FROM VERMILION CLIFFS.

FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 241

tural terms belittle them. As this great bed forms a distinctive feature of the canyon, we call it Marble Canyon.

tural terms belittle them. As this large bed creates a unique characteristic of the canyon, we call it Marble Canyon.

It is a peculiar feature of these walls that many projections are set out into the river, as if the wall was buttressed for support. The walls themselves are half a mile high, and these buttresses are on a corresponding scale, jutting into the river scores of feet. In the recesses between these projections there are quiet bays, except at the foot of a rapid, when there are dancing eddies or whirlpools. Sometimes these alcoves have caves at the back, giving them the appearance of great depth. Then other caves are seen above, forming vast dome-shaped chambers. The walls and buttresses and chambers are all of marble.

It’s an interesting feature of these walls that many projections extend into the river, almost as if the wall was supported by buttresses. The walls themselves rise half a mile high, and these buttresses are similarly large, stretching into the river for dozens of feet. In the spaces between these projections, there are calm bays, except at the base of a rapid, where swirling eddies or whirlpools appear. Sometimes these alcoves have caves at the back, giving them a sense of great depth. Then, there are other caves above, creating massive dome-shaped chambers. The walls, buttresses, and chambers are all made of marble.

The river is now quiet; the canyon wider. Above, when the river is at its flood, the waters gorge up, so that the difference between high and low water mark is often 50 or even 70 feet, but here high-water mark is not more than 20 feet above the present stage of the river. Sometimes there is a narrow flood plain between the water and the wall. Here we first discover mesquite shrubs,--small trees with finely divided leaves and pods, somewhat like the locust.

The river is now calm; the canyon is wider. When the river floods, the water rises significantly, so the difference between the high and low water marks is often 50 or even 70 feet, but here the high-water mark is no more than 20 feet above the current level of the river. Sometimes there's a narrow floodplain between the water and the wall. It’s here that we first notice mesquite shrubs—small trees with finely divided leaves and pods, somewhat similar to locusts.

August 10.--Walls still higher; water swift again. We pass several broad, ragged canyons on our right, and up through these we catch glimpses of a forest-clad plateau, miles away to the west.

August 10.--Walls still taller; water flowing fast again. We pass several wide, jagged canyons on our right, and through these, we catch sight of a forest-covered plateau, miles away to the west.

At two o'clock we reach the mouth of the Colorado Chiquito. This stream enters through a canyon on a scale quite as grand as that of the Colorado itself. It is a very small river and exceedingly muddy and saline. I walk up the stream three or four miles this afternoon, crossing and recrossing where I can easily wade it. Then I climb several hundred feet at one place, and can see for several miles up the chasm through which the river runs. On my way back I kill two rattlesnakes, and find on my arrival that another has been killed just at camp.

At two o'clock, we arrive at the mouth of the Colorado Chiquito. This stream flows through a canyon that’s just as impressive as the Colorado itself. It's a small river, really muddy and salty. I walk upstream for three or four miles this afternoon, crossing back and forth where I can easily wade. Then I climb a few hundred feet at one spot, and I can see several miles up the gorge the river runs through. On my way back, I catch and kill two rattlesnakes, and when I get back to camp, I find out that another one has been killed right by the campsite.

August 11.--We remain at this point to-day for the purpose of determining the latitude and longitude, measuring the height of the walls, drying our rations, and repairing our boats.

August 11.--We're staying here today to figure out the latitude and longitude, measure the height of the walls, dry our supplies, and fix our boats.

Captain Powell early in the morning takes a barometer and goes out to climb a point between the two rivers. I walk down the gorge to the left at the foot of the cliff, climb to a bench, and discover a trail, deeply worn in the rock. Where it crosses the side gulches in some

Captain Powell heads out early in the morning with a barometer to climb a point between the two rivers. I walk down the gorge to the left at the base of the cliff, climb up to a ledge, and find a trail, clearly worn into the rock. Where it crosses the side gulches in some

242 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

places steps have been cut. I can see no evidence of its having been traveled for a long time. It was doubtless a path used by the people who inhabited this country anterior to the present Indian races--the people who built the communal houses of which mention has been made.

places steps have been cut. I can see no evidence that it has been traveled for a long time. It was probably a path used by the people who lived in this country before the current Indian tribes--the people who built the communal houses that have been mentioned.

I return to camp about three o'clock and find that some of the men have discovered ruins and many fragments of pottery; also etchings and hieroglyphics on the rocks.

I get back to camp around three o'clock and see that some of the guys have found ruins and lots of pottery pieces; they also discovered carvings and hieroglyphs on the rocks.

We find to-night, on comparing the readings of the barometers, that the walls are about 3,000 feet high--more than half a mile--an altitude difficult to appreciate from a mere statement of feet. The slope by which the ascent is made is not such a slope as is usually found in climbing a mountain, but one much more abrupt--often vertical for many hundreds of feet,--so that the impression is given that we are at great depths, and we look up to see but a little patch of sky.

We discover tonight, after comparing the barometer readings, that the walls are about 3,000 feet high—over half a mile—an elevation that's hard to grasp just from the number of feet. The slope we climb isn't like the typical incline of a mountain; it's much steeper—often vertical for hundreds of feet—giving the impression that we're deep below, where we can only see a small patch of sky above us.

Between the two streams, above the Colorado Chiquito, in some places the rocks are broken and shelving for 600 Or 700 feet; then there is a sloping terrace, which can be climbed only by finding some way up a gulch; then another terrace, and back, still another cliff. The summit of the cliff is 3,000 feet above the river, as our barometers attest.

Between the two streams, above the Colorado Chiquito, in some spots the rocks are fractured and sloping for 600 or 700 feet; then there’s a slanting terrace that can only be accessed by navigating a gulch; then another terrace, and again, yet another cliff. The top of the cliff is 3,000 feet above the river, as our barometers confirm.

Our camp is below the Colorado Chiquito and on the eastern side of the canyon.

Our camp is located below the Colorado Chiquito, on the east side of the canyon.

August 12.--The rocks above camp are rust-colored sandstones and conglomerates. Some are very hard; others quite soft. They all lie nearly horizontal, and the beds of softer material have been washed out, leaving the harder forming a series of shelves. Long lines of these are seen, of varying thickness, from one or two to twenty or thirty feet, and the spaces between have the same variability. This morning I spend two or three hours in climbing among these shelves, and then I pass above them and go up a long slope to the foot of the cliff and try to discover some way by which I can reach the top of the wall; but I find my progress cut off by an amphitheater. Then I wander away around to the left, up a little gulch and along benches, climbing from time to time, until I reach an altitude of nearly 2,000 feet and can get no higher. From this point I can look off to the west, up side canyons of the Colorado, and see the edge of a great plateau, from which streams run down into the Colorado, and deep gulches in the

August 12.--The rocks above the camp are a rusty red, made up of sandstone and conglomerates. Some are really hard while others are pretty soft. They all lie almost flat, and the softer layers have been worn away, leaving the harder ones to form a series of ledges. Long lines of these ledges can be seen, varying in thickness from one or two feet to twenty or thirty feet, and the gaps in between also show this variation. This morning, I spend two or three hours climbing around these ledges, and then I go above them and trek up a long slope to the base of the cliff, trying to find a way to the top; however, I'm blocked by an amphitheater. Then I wander off to the left, up a small gulch and along ledges, climbing from time to time until I reach an elevation of nearly 2,000 feet and can’t go any higher. From this spot, I can look westward, up the side canyons of the Colorado, and see the edge of a vast plateau, from which streams flow down into the Colorado, and deep gorges in the

243

ADOBE WALLS, ZUÑI

Adobe Walls, Zuni

244 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

escarpment which faces us, continued by canyons, ragged and flaring and set with cliffs and towering crags, down to the river. I can see far up Marble Canyon to long lines of chocolate-colored cliffs, and above these the Vermilion Cliffs. I can see, also, up the Colorado Chiquito, through a very ragged and broken canyon, with sharp salients set out from the walls on either side, their points overlapping, so that a huge tooth of marble on one side seems to be set between two teeth on the opposite; and I can also get glimpses of walls standing away back from the river, while over my head are mural escarpments not possible to be scaled.

the escarpment facing us continues with canyons that are jagged and flaring, lined with cliffs and towering peaks down to the river. I can see up Marble Canyon to long stretches of chocolate-colored cliffs, and above them, the Vermilion Cliffs. I can also see up the Colorado Chiquito, through a very rough and broken canyon, with sharp projections sticking out from the walls on both sides, their points overlapping, so that a massive tooth of marble on one side seems to fit between two teeth on the opposite side. I can also catch glimpses of walls set back from the river, while towering escarpments loom overhead, impossible to climb.

Cataract Canyon is 41 miles long. The walls are 1,300 feet high at its head, and they gradually increase in altitude to a point about halfway down, where they are 2,700 feet, and then decrease to 1,300 feet at the foot. Narrow Canyon is 9 1/2 miles long, with walls 1,300 feet in height at the head and coming down to the water at the foot.

Cataract Canyon is 41 miles long. The walls start at 1,300 feet high at the top and gradually rise to about 2,700 feet halfway down, then drop back down to 1,300 feet at the bottom. Narrow Canyon is 9.5 miles long, with walls 1,300 feet high at the top that slope down to the water at the bottom.

There is very little vegetation in this canyon or in the adjacent country. Just at the junction of the Grand and Green there are a number of hackberry trees; and along the entire length of Cataract Canyon the high-water line is marked by scattered trees of the same species. A few nut pines and cedars are found, and occasionally a redbud or Judas tree; but the general aspect of the canyons and of the adjacent country is that of naked rock.

There’s not much plant life in this canyon or the surrounding area. Right where the Grand and Green rivers meet, you can find some hackberry trees, and along the entire length of Cataract Canyon, the high-water line is marked by scattered trees of the same type. You might also spot a few nut pines and cedars, and occasionally a redbud or Judas tree; however, the overall look of the canyons and the nearby land is mostly bare rock.

244

The distance through Glen Canyon is 149 miles. Its walls vary in height from 200 or 300 to 1,600 feet. Marble Canyon is 65 1/2 miles long. At its head it is 200 feet deep, and it steadily increases in depth to its foot, where its walls are 3,500 feet high.

The distance through Glen Canyon is 149 miles. Its walls range in height from 200 or 300 feet to 1,600 feet. Marble Canyon is 65.5 miles long. At its beginning, it is 200 feet deep, and it gradually gets deeper to its end, where the walls rise to 3,500 feet.

245

246

AT THE MOUTH OF THE LITTLE COLORADO.

247

CHAPTER XI.

CHAPTER 11.

FROM THE LITTLE COLORADO TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON.

FROM THE LITTLE COLORADO TO THE BASE OF THE GRAND CANYON.

AUGUST 13.--We are now ready to start on our way down the Great Unknown. Our boats, tied to a common, stake, chafe each other as they are tossed by the fretful river. They ride high and buoyant, for their loads are lighter than we could desire. We have but a month's rations remaining. The flour has been resifted through the mosquito-net sieve; the spoiled bacon has been dried and the worst of it boiled; the few pounds of dried apples have been spread in the sun and reshrunken to their normal bulk. The sugar has all melted and gone on its way down the river. But we have a large sack of coffee. The lightening of the boats has this advantage: they will ride the waves better and we shall have but little to carry when we make a portage.

AUGUST 13.--We're all set to head down the Great Unknown. Our boats, tied to a shared stake, bump against each other as they’re tossed by the restless river. They’re riding high and buoyant since their loads are lighter than we would like. We only have a month's worth of supplies left. The flour has been resifted through the mosquito-net sieve; the spoiled bacon has been dried, and the worst of it has been boiled; the few pounds of dried apples have been sun-dried and returned to their normal size. All the sugar has melted and been carried away by the river. But we do have a large sack of coffee. The lighter boats have this perk: they’ll handle the waves better, and we’ll have less to carry when we make a portage.

We are three quarters of a mile in the depths of the earth, and the great river shrinks into insignificance as it dashes its angry waves against the walls and cliffs that rise to the world above; the waves are but puny ripples, and we but pigmies, running up and down the sands or lost among the boulders.

We are three quarters of a mile deep in the earth, and the great river seems tiny as it crashes its furious waves against the walls and cliffs that rise to the world above; the waves are just weak ripples, and we are mere tiny figures, moving up and down the sands or getting lost among the boulders.

We have an unknown distance yet to run, an unknown river to explore. What falls there are, we know not; what rocks beset the channel, we know not; what walls rise over the river, we know not. Ah, well! we may conjecture many things. The men talk as cheerfully as ever; jests are bandied about freely this morning; but to me the cheer is somber and the jests are ghastly.

We have an unknown distance still to cover, an unknown river to discover. We don't know what falls are there; we don't know what rocks block the riverbed; we don't know what walls tower over the river. Oh well! We can guess many things. The guys are chatting as happily as ever; jokes are tossed around freely this morning; but for me, the cheer feels heavy and the jokes are eerie.

With some eagerness and some anxiety and some misgiving we enter the canyon below and are carried along by the swift water through walls which rise from its very edge. They have the same structure that we noticed yesterday--tiers of irregular shelves below, and, above these,

With a mix of excitement, nervousness, and doubt, we head into the canyon below and are swept along by the fast water between walls that rise right from its edge. They have the same structure we noticed yesterday—layers of uneven shelves below, and above these,

248 8 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

steep slopes to the foot of marble cliffs. We run six miles in a little more than half an hour and emerge into a more open portion of the canyon, where high hills and ledges of rock intervene between the river and the distant walls. Just at the head of this open place the river runs across a dike; that is, a fissure in the rocks, open to depths below, was filled with eruptive matter, and this on cooling was harder than the rocks through which the crevice was made, and when these were washed away the harder volcanic matter remained as a wall, and the river has cut a gateway through it several hundred feet high and as many wide. As it crosses the wall, there is a fall below and a bad rapid, filled with boulders of trap; so we stop to make a portage. Then on we go, gliding by hills and ledges, with distant walls in view; sweeping past sharp angles of rock; stopping at a few points to examine rapids, which we find can be run, until we have made another five miles, when we land for dinner.

steep slopes to the base of marble cliffs. We run six miles in just over half an hour and enter a more open area of the canyon, where high hills and rock ledges stand between the river and the distant walls. Just at the start of this open space, the river flows over a dike; that is, a fissure in the rocks, which is open to depths below, was filled with volcanic material, and this material, when it cooled, became harder than the rocks surrounding the crevice. When those rocks were eroded away, the tougher volcanic matter remained as a wall, and the river has carved a passage through it that is several hundred feet high and wide. As it crosses the wall, there's a waterfall below and a rough rapid filled with boulders; so we stop to carry our gear around it. Then we continue on, gliding by hills and ledges, with distant walls in sight; sweeping past sharp rock angles; stopping at a few points to check out rapids, which we discover can be navigated, until we've traveled another five miles, when we stop for lunch.

Then we let down with lines over a long rapid and start again. Once more the walls close in, and we find ourselves in a narrow gorge, the water again filling the channel and being very swift. With great care and constant watchfulness we proceed, making about four miles this afternoon, and camp in a cave.

Then we lowered the lines over a long rapid and started again. Once more the walls closed in, and we found ourselves in a narrow gorge where the water filled the channel and flowed really fast. With great care and constant vigilance, we moved forward, covering about four miles this afternoon, and set up camp in a cave.

August 14---At daybreak we walk down the bank of the river, on a little sandy beach, to take a view of a new feature in the canyon. Heretofore hard rocks have given us bad river; soft rocks, smooth water; and a series of rocks harder than any we have experienced sets in. The river enters the gneiss! We can see but a little way into the granite gorge, but it looks threatening.

August 14---At dawn, we stroll along the riverbank on a small sandy beach to check out a new feature in the canyon. Until now, hard rocks have made for a rough river, while soft rocks have led to smooth water; now we’re facing a series of rocks harder than anything we’ve dealt with before. The river is entering the gneiss! We can only see a short distance into the granite gorge, but it looks ominous.

After breakfast we enter on the waves. At the very introduction it inspires awe. The canyon is narrower than we have ever before seen it; the water is swifter; there are but few broken rocks in the channel; but the walls are set, on either side, with pinnacles and crags; and sharp, angular buttresses, bristling with wind- and wave-polished spires, extend far out into the river.

After breakfast, we venture onto the waves. Right from the start, it fills us with awe. The canyon is narrower than we've ever seen before; the water is faster; there are only a few broken rocks in the channel; but the walls on either side are adorned with peaks and cliffs, and sharp, angled buttresses, covered in wind- and wave-smoothed spires, stretch far out into the river.

Ledges of rock jut into the stream, their tops sometimes just below the surface, sometimes rising a few or many feet above; and island ledges and island pinnacles and island towers break the swift course of the stream into chutes and eddies and whirlpools. We soon reach a place

Ledges of rock stick out into the stream, with their tops sometimes just below the surface and other times rising a few or many feet above; island ledges, pinnacles, and towers interrupt the fast flow of the stream, creating chutes, eddies, and whirlpools. We soon reach a place

TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON.

249

where a creek comes in from the left, and, just below, the channel is choked with boulders, which have washed down this lateral canyon and formed a dam, over which there is a fall of 30 or 40 feet; but on the boulders foothold can be had, and we make a portage. Three more such dams are found. Over one we make a portage; at the other two are chutes through which we can run.

where a creek flows in from the left, and just below, the channel is blocked by boulders, which have washed down this side canyon and created a dam, over which there is a drop of 30 or 40 feet; but we can find footholds on the boulders, and we carry our gear around. We encounter three more of these dams. We carry our gear around one; at the other two, there are chutes that we can navigate through.

As we proceed the granite rises higher, until nearly a thousand feet of the lower part of the walls are composed of this rock.

As we go on, the granite gets taller, with almost a thousand feet of the lower part of the walls made up of this rock.

WALLS OF GNEISS.

Gneiss walls.

About eleven o'clock we hear a great roar ahead, and approach it very cautiously. The sound grows louder and louder as we run, and at last we find ourselves above a long, broken fall, with ledges and pinnacles of

About eleven o'clock, we hear a huge roar up ahead and move toward it very carefully. The sound gets louder and louder as we run, and finally, we find ourselves above a long, jagged waterfall, with ledges and peaks of

250

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

rock obstructing the river. There is a descent of perhaps 75 or 80 feet in a third of a mile, and the rushing waters break into great waves

rock blocking the river. There's a drop of about 75 or 80 feet over a third of a mile, and the rushing water crashes into big waves

RUNNING A RAPID.

on the rocks, and lash themselves into a mad, white foam. We can land just above, but there is no foothold on either side by which we can make a portage. It is nearly a thousand feet to the top of the granite;

on the rocks, and throw themselves into a crazy, white foam. We can land just above, but there’s no way to get a foothold on either side to make a portage. It’s almost a thousand feet to the top of the granite;

TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 251

so it will be impossible to carry our boats around, though we can climb to the summit up a side gulch and, passing along a mile or two, descend to the river. This we find on examination; but such a portage would be impracticable for us, and we must run the rapid or abandon the river. There is no hesitation. We step into our boats, push off, and away we go, first on smooth but swift water, then we strike a glassy wave and ride to its top, down again into the trough, up again on a higher wave, and down and up on waves higher and still higher until we strike one just as it curls back, and a breaker rolls over our little boat. Still on we speed, shooting past projecting rocks, till the little boat is caught in a whirlpool and spun round several times. At last we pull out again into the stream. And now the other boats have passed us. The open compartment of the "Emma Dean" is filled with water and every breaker rolls over us. Hurled back from a rock, now on this side, now on that, we are carried into an eddy, in which we struggle for a few minutes, and are then out again, the breakers still rolling over us. Our boat is unmanageable, but she cannot sink, and we drift down another hundred yards through breakers--how, we scarcely know. We find the other boats have turned into an eddy at the foot of the fall and are waiting to catch us as we come, for the men have seen that our boat is swamped. They push out as we come near and pull us in against the wall. Our boat bailed, on we go again.

It’s going to be impossible to carry our boats around, but we can climb to the top of a nearby gulch and, after walking a mile or two, come back down to the river. We realize this upon checking, but making such a portage isn’t practical for us, and we have to either navigate the rapid or give up the river. There’s no doubt about it. We get in our boats, push off, and away we go, first gliding over smooth but fast water, then we hit a glassy wave and ride to the top, down into the trough, back up on a higher wave, and down and up again on waves that keep getting taller until we hit one that curls back, and a wave crashes over our little boat. Still, we speed on, shooting past jutting rocks, until our boat gets caught in a whirlpool and spins around several times. Finally, we break free and return to the main flow. Now the other boats have passed us. The open section of the "Emma Dean" is filled with water, and every wave crashes over us. Thrown back from a rock, now on this side, now on that, we’re swept into an eddy, where we struggle for a few minutes, and then we’re out again, the waves still crashing over us. Our boat is hard to control, but it won't sink, and we drift down another hundred yards through the waves—how we manage it, we hardly know. We see that the other boats have turned into an eddy at the bottom of the drop and are waiting to help us as we arrive, since the guys noticed our boat is swamped. They push out as we get closer and pull us in against the bank. Our boat bailed out, we’re off again.

The walls now are more than a mile in height--a vertical distance difficult to appreciate. Stand on the south steps of the Treasury building in Washington and look down Pennsylvania Avenue to the Capitol; measure this distance overhead, and imagine cliffs to extend to that altitude, and you will understand what is meant; or stand at Canal Street in New York and look up Broadway to Grace Church, and you have about the distance; or stand at Lake Street bridge in Chicago and look down to the Central Depot, and you have it again.

The walls are now over a mile high—a height that’s hard to grasp. Stand on the south steps of the Treasury building in Washington and look down Pennsylvania Avenue toward the Capitol; measure that distance above, and picture cliffs reaching that height, and you'll get the idea. Or stand at Canal Street in New York and look up Broadway toward Grace Church, and you’re seeing about the same distance; or stand at the Lake Street bridge in Chicago and look down to the Central Depot, and you’ll see it again.

A thousand feet of this is up through granite crags; then steep slopes and perpendicular cliffs rise one above another to the summit. The gorge is black and narrow below, red and gray and flaring above, with crags and angular projections on the walls, which, cut in many places by side canyons, seem to be a vast wilderness of rocks. Down in these grand, gloomy depths we glide, ever listening, for the mad waters keep

A thousand feet of this goes up through granite cliffs; then steep slopes and vertical cliffs rise one after another to the top. The gorge is dark and narrow below, red and gray and bright above, with cliffs and sharp edges on the walls, which, carved in many places by side canyons, appear to be a massive wilderness of rocks. We glide down into these grand, gloomy depths, always listening, as the wild waters keep

252

HEAD OF THE GRAND CANYON.

GRAND CANYON HEAD.

TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 253

up their roar; ever watching, ever peering ahead, for the narrow canyon is winding and the river is closed in so that we can see but a few hundred yards, and what there may be below we know not; so we listen for falls and watch for rocks, stopping now and then in the bay of a recess to admire the gigantic scenery; and ever as we go there is some new pinnacle or tower, some crag or peak, some distant view of the upper plateau, some strangely shaped rock, or some deep, narrow side canyon.

up their roar; always watching, always looking ahead, because the narrow canyon twists and the river is so confined that we can only see a few hundred yards ahead, and we have no idea what lies below; so we listen for waterfalls and look out for rocks, stopping occasionally in a bay of a recess to admire the massive scenery; and as we move forward, there's always a new pinnacle or tower, a crag or peak, a distant glimpse of the upper plateau, a strangely shaped rock, or a deep, narrow side canyon.

Then we come to another broken fall, which appears more difficult than the one we ran this morning. A small creek comes in on the right, and the first fall of the water is over boulders, which have been carried down by this lateral stream. We land at its mouth and stop for an hour or two to examine the fall. It seems possible to let down with lines, at least a part of the way, from point to point, along the right-hand wall. So we make a portage over the first rocks and find footing on some boulders below. Then we let down one of the boats to the end of her line, when she reaches a corner of the projecting rock, to which one of the men clings and steadies her while I examine an eddy below. I think we can pass the other boats down by us and catch them in the eddy. This is soon done, and the men in the boats in the eddy pull us to their side. On the shore of this little eddy there is about two feet of gravel beach above the water. Standing on this beach, some of the men take the line of the little boat and let it drift down against another projecting angle. Here is a little shelf, on which a man from my boat climbs, and a shorter line is passed to him, and he fastens the boat to the side of the cliff; then the second one is let down, bringing the line of the third. When the second boat is tied up, the two men standing on the beach above spring into the last boat, which is pulled up alongside of ours; then we let down the boats for 25 or 30 yards by walking along the shelf, landing them again in the mouth of a side canyon. Just below this there is another pile of boulders, over which we make another portage. From the foot of these rocks we can climb to another shelf, 40 or 50 feet above the water.

Then we arrive at another waterfall, which looks trickier than the one we encountered this morning. A small creek flows in from the right, and the first drop of water tumbles over boulders that have been washed down by this side stream. We stop at its mouth for an hour or two to check out the fall. It seems possible to lower the boats with lines, at least part of the way, point to point along the right wall. So we carry the first boat over the rocks and find a spot on some boulders below. We then lower one of the boats to the end of her line, and when she reaches a corner of the jutting rock, one of the men grabs hold to steady her while I check an eddy below. I think we can pass the other boats down to us and catch them in the eddy. This gets done quickly, and the men in the boats in the eddy pull us to their side. On the shore of this little eddy, there's about two feet of gravel beach above the water. Standing on this beach, some of the men take the line of the little boat and let it drift down against another ledge. There's a little shelf where a man from my boat climbs up, and a shorter line is passed to him, which he uses to tie the boat to the cliff. Then the second boat is lowered, bringing the line of the third. Once the second boat is secured, the two men standing on the beach above jump into the last boat, which is pulled up alongside ours. We then lower the boats for about 25 or 30 yards by walking along the shelf, landing them again at the mouth of a side canyon. Just below this, there’s another pile of boulders, over which we make another portage. From the foot of these rocks, we can climb up to another shelf, 40 or 50 feet above the water.

On this bench we camp for the night. It is raining hard, and we have no shelter, but find a few sticks which have lodged in the rocks, and kindle a fire and have supper. We sit on the rocks all night, wrapped in our ponchos, getting what sleep we can.

On this bench, we settle down for the night. It's pouring rain, and we have no shelter, but we find a few sticks stuck in the rocks, start a fire, and have dinner. We sit on the rocks all night, wrapped in our ponchos, trying to get whatever sleep we can.

254

THE INNER GORGE.

255

TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON.

August 15.--This morning we find we can let down for 300 or 400 yards, and it is managed in this way: we pass along the wall by climbing from projecting point to point, sometimes near the water's edge, at other places 50 or 60 feet above, and hold the boat with a line while two men remain aboard and prevent her from being dashed against the rocks and keep the line from getting caught on the wall. In two hours we have brought them all down, as far as it is possible, in this way. A few yards below, the river strikes with great violence against a projecting rock and our boats are pulled up in a little bay above. We must now manage to pull out of this and clear the point below. The little boat is held by the bow obliquely up the stream. We jump in and pull out only a few strokes, and sweep clear of the dangerous rock. The other boats follow in the same manner and the rapid is passed.

August 15.--This morning we see that we can descend for 300 or 400 yards, and we do it like this: we navigate along the wall by climbing from one ledge to another, sometimes right by the water's edge and other times 50 or 60 feet above. We hold the boat with a line while two men stay on board to keep it from crashing into the rocks and to prevent the line from getting snagged on the wall. In two hours, we've brought them all down as far as possible this way. A few yards downstream, the river violently hits a projecting rock, so we pull our boats into a small bay above it. Now we need to figure out how to get out of this bay and around the point below. The small boat is angled upstream at the bow. We jump in and paddle out a few strokes, clearing the dangerous rock. The other boats follow suit, and we get past the rapid.

It is not easy to describe the labor of such navigation. We must prevent the waves from dashing the boats against the cliffs. Sometimes, where the river is swift, we must put a bight of rope about a rock, to prevent the boat from being snatched from us by a wave; but where the plunge is too great or the chute too swift, we must let her leap and catch her below or the undertow will drag her under the falling water and sink her. Where we wish to run her out a little way from shore through a channel between rocks, we first throw in little sticks of driftwood and watch their course, to see where we must steer so that she will pass the channel in safety. And so we hold, and let go, and pull, and lift, and ward--among rocks, around rocks, and over rocks.

It’s not easy to describe the work involved in this kind of navigation. We need to stop the waves from smashing the boats against the cliffs. Sometimes, when the river is fast, we have to tie a rope around a rock to keep the boat from being swept away by a wave; but when the drop is too steep or the current is too strong, we have to let it go and catch it downstream, or the undertow will pull it under the waterfall and sink it. When we want to take the boat a little way from the shore through a channel between rocks, we first toss in small pieces of driftwood and watch their path to figure out how we need to steer to safely navigate the channel. And so we hold on, let go, pull, lift, and steer—among rocks, around rocks, and over rocks.

And now we go on through this solemn, mysterious way. The river is very deep, the canyon very narrow, and still obstructed, so that there is no steady flow of the stream; but the waters reel and roll and boil, and we are scarcely able to determine where we can go. Now the boat is carried to the right, perhaps close to the wall; again, she is shot into the stream, and perhaps is dragged over to the other side, where, caught in a whirlpool, she spins about. We can neither land nor run as we please. The boats are entirely unmanageable; no order in their running can be preserved; now one, now another, is ahead, each crew laboring for its own preservation. In such a place we come to another rapid. Two of the boats run it perforce. One succeeds in landing, but there is no foothold by which to make a portage and she is pushed out again into

And now we continue along this serious, mysterious path. The river is really deep, the canyon is very narrow, and still blocked, so there's no consistent flow of the water; instead, the currents swirl and crash, and we can barely figure out where to go. The boat gets pushed to the right, maybe close to the wall; then it's shot back into the stream, and possibly gets dragged to the other side, where it gets caught in a whirlpool and spins around. We can’t land or move as we want. The boats are completely uncontrollable; there’s no way to keep them organized; now one boat is ahead, then another, each crew just trying to survive. In this chaos, we reach another rapid. Two of the boats go through it by necessity. One manages to land, but there’s no solid ground to make a portage, so it gets pushed back out into

256 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

the stream. The next minute a great reflex wave fills the open compartment; she is water-logged, and drifts unmanageable. Breaker after breaker rolls over her and one capsizes her. The men are thrown out; but they cling to the boat, and she drifts down some distance alongside of us and we are able to catch her. She is soon bailed out and the men are aboard once more; but the oars are lost, and so a pair from the "Emma Dean" is spared. Then for two miles we find smooth water.

the stream. The next moment, a huge wave crashes into the open compartment; she becomes waterlogged and drifts uncontrollably. Wave after wave rolls over her, and one flips her over. The men are thrown out, but they grip the boat, and it floats alongside us for a distance, allowing us to catch it. We quickly bail her out, and the men are back on board; however, the oars are lost, so we borrow a pair from the "Emma Dean." Then, for two miles, we have calm water.

Clouds are playing in the canyon to-day. Sometimes they roll down in great masses, filling the gorge with gloom; sometimes they hang aloft from wall to wall and cover the canyon with a roof of impending storm, and we can peer long distances up and down this canyon corridor, with its cloud-roof overhead, its walls of black granite, and its river bright with the sheen of broken waters. Then a gust of wind sweeps down a side gulch and, making a rift in the clouds, reveals the blue heavens, and a stream of sunlight pours in. Then the clouds drift away into the distance, and hang around crags and peaks and pinnacles and towers and walls, and cover them with a mantle that lifts from time to time and sets them all in sharp relief. Then baby clouds creep out of side canyons, glide around points, and creep back again into more distant gorges. Then clouds arrange in strata across the canyon, with intervening vista views to cliffs and rocks beyond. The clouds are children of the heavens, and when they play among the rocks they lift them to the region above.

Clouds are playing in the canyon today. Sometimes they roll down in huge masses, filling the gorge with darkness; sometimes they hang high from wall to wall, covering the canyon with a looming storm, and we can see far up and down this canyon corridor, with its cloud-covered roof, its walls of black granite, and its river sparkling with the shimmer of moving waters. Then a gust of wind sweeps down a side gulch and, opening a gap in the clouds, reveals the blue sky, and a stream of sunlight pours in. The clouds then drift away into the distance, lingering around crags, peaks, pinnacles, and towers, covering them with a cloak that occasionally lifts and sets them in sharp contrast. Small clouds emerge from side canyons, glide around ridges, and slip back into more distant gorges. The clouds form layers across the canyon, creating views of cliffs and rocks beyond. The clouds are children of the sky, and when they play among the rocks, they lift them to the realm above.

256

It rains! Rapidly little rills are formed above, and these soon grow into brooks, and the brooks grow into creeks and tumble over the walls in innumerable cascades, adding their wild music to the roar of the river. When the rain ceases the rills, brooks, and creeks run dry. The waters that fall during a rain on these steep rocks are gathered at once into the river; they could scarcely be poured in more suddenly if some vast spout ran from the clouds to the stream itself. When a storm bursts over the canyon a side gulch is dangerous, for a sudden flood may come, and the inpouring waters will raise the river so as to hide the rocks.

It’s raining! Tiny streams are quickly forming above, and soon they turn into brooks, which grow into creeks that spill over the edges in countless cascades, adding their wild sounds to the roar of the river. When the rain stops, the streams, brooks, and creeks dry up. The water that falls during a rain on these steep rocks is instantly collected into the river; it couldn’t be poured in more quickly if a huge spout connected the clouds directly to the stream. When a storm hits the canyon, a side gulch can become dangerous, as a sudden flood might occur, and the rushing water can raise the river so high that the rocks become hidden.

Early in the afternoon we discover a stream entering from the north--a clear, beautiful creek, coming down through a gorgeous red canyon. We land and camp on a sand beach above its mouth, under a great, overspreading tree with willow-shaped leaves.

Early in the afternoon, we find a stream flowing in from the north—a clear and beautiful creek winding through a stunning red canyon. We dock and set up camp on a sandy beach at its mouth, beneath a large tree with willow-like leaves.

257

SIGNAL OF DISCOVERY OR ALARM.

SIGNAL FOR DISCOVERY OR ALERT.

258

SIGNAL, "WHO ARE YOU?" ANSWER, "PANI."

TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 259

August 16.--We must dry our rations again to-day and make oars.

August 16.--We need to dry our supplies again today and make some oars.

The Colorado is never a clear stream, but for the past three or four days it has been raining much of the time, and the floods poured over the walls have brought down great quantities of mud, making it exceedingly turbid now. The little affluent which we have discovered here is a clear, beautiful creek, or river, as it would be termed in this western country, where streams are not abundant. We have named one stream, away above, in honor of the great chief of the "Bad Angels," and as this is in beautiful contrast to that, we conclude to name it "Bright Angel."

The Colorado is never a clear river, but for the past three or four days, it has been raining a lot, and the floods spilling over the banks have brought down a huge amount of mud, making it extremely cloudy now. The little stream we've found here is a clear, beautiful creek, or river, as it would be called in this western region, where streams are scarce. We've named one stream, farther up, after the great leader of the "Bad Angels," and since this one is such a lovely contrast to that, we've decided to call it "Bright Angel."

Early in the morning the whole party starts up to explore the Bright Angel River, with the special purpose of seeking timber from which to make oars. A couple of miles above we find a large pine log, which has been floated down from the plateau, probably from an altitude of more than 6,000 feet, but not many miles back. On its way it must have passed over many cataracts and falls, for it bears scars in evidence of the rough usage which it has received. The men roll it on skids, and the work of sawing oars is commenced.

Early in the morning, the entire group heads out to explore the Bright Angel River, specifically looking to find wood for making oars. A couple of miles upstream, we come across a large pine log that has been floated down from the plateau, likely from over 6,000 feet in elevation, but not many miles away. Along the way, it must have traveled over several waterfalls and rapids, as it shows signs of rough treatment. The men roll it onto skids, and they begin the task of sawing the oars.

This stream heads away back under a line of abrupt cliffs that terminates the plateau, and tumbles down more than 4,000 feet in the first mile or two of its course; then runs through a deep, narrow canyon until it reaches the river.

This stream flows back under a series of steep cliffs that mark the end of the plateau, dropping over 4,000 feet in the first mile or two of its path; then it passes through a deep, narrow canyon until it reaches the river.

Late in the afternoon I return and go up a little gulch just above this creek, about 200 yards from camp, and discover the ruins of two or three old houses, which were originally of stone laid in mortar. Only the foundations are left, but irregular blocks, of which the houses were constructed, lie scattered about. In one room I find an old mealing-stone, deeply worn, as if it had been much used. A great deal of pottery is strewn around, and old trails, which in some places are deeply worn into the rocks, are seen.

Late in the afternoon, I head back and walk up a small gully just above this creek, about 200 yards from camp, and find the ruins of two or three old houses, which were originally made of stone set in mortar. Only the foundations remain, but irregular stones that were part of the houses lie scattered around. In one room, I come across an old grinding stone, deeply grooved as if it had seen a lot of use. A lot of pottery is scattered around, and old trails, some of which are deeply worn into the rocks, are visible.

It is ever a source of wonder to us why these ancient people sought such inaccessible places for their homes. They were, doubtless, an agricultural race, but there are no lands here of any considerable extent that they could have cultivated. To the west of Oraibi, one of the towns in the Province of Tusayan, in northern Arizona, the inhabitants have actually built little terraces along the face of the cliff where a

It’s always a mystery to us why these ancient people chose such hard-to-reach places to live. They were definitely an agricultural society, but there’s not much land here that they could have farmed. To the west of Oraibi, one of the towns in the Province of Tusayan in northern Arizona, the residents have even built small terraces along the side of the cliff where a

260 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

spring gushes out, and thus made their sites for gardens. It is possible that the ancient inhabitants of this place made their agricultural lands in the same way. But why should they seek such spots'? Surely the country was not so crowded with people as to demand the utilization of so barren a region. The only solution suggested of the problem is this: We know that for a century or two after the settlement of Mexico many expeditious were sent into the country now comprising Arizona and New Mexico, for the purpose of bringing the town-building people under the dominion of the Spanish government. Many of their villages were destroyed, and the inhabitants fled to regions at that time unknown; and there are traditions among the people who inhabit the pueblos that still remain that the canyons were these unknown lauds. It may be these buildings were erected at that time; sure it is that they have a much more modern appearance than the ruins scattered over Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico. Those old Spanish conquerors had a monstrous greed for gold and a wonderful lust for saving souls. Treasures they must have, if not on earth, why, then, in heaven; and when they failed to find heathen temples bedecked with silver, they propitiated Heaven by seizing the heathen themselves. There is yet extant a copy of a record made by a heathen artist to express his conception of the demands of the conquerors. In one part of the picture we have a lake, and near by stands a priest pouring water on the head of a native. On the other side, a poor Indian has a cord about his throat. Lines run from these two groups to a central figure, a man with beard and full Spanish panoply. The interpretation of the picture-writing is this: "Be baptized as this saved heathen, or be hanged as that damned heathen." Doubtless, some of these people preferred another alternative, and rather than be baptized or hanged they chose to imprison themselves within these canyon walls.

spring flows freely, creating spaces for gardens. It's possible that the early residents of this area established their farmland in a similar manner. But why would they choose such locations? Surely the region wasn't so densely populated that it required the use of such barren land. The only explanation that seems to fit is this: We know that for a century or two after Mexico was settled, many expeditions were sent into what is now Arizona and New Mexico to bring the people building towns under Spanish rule. Many of their villages were destroyed, forcing the inhabitants to flee to regions that were then unfamiliar; there are still traditions among the people living in the remaining pueblos that say the canyons were those unknown lands. It’s possible these structures were built during that time; it's clear they look more modern than the ruins scattered across Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico. Those old Spanish conquerors had an enormous greed for gold and a strong desire to save souls. They wanted treasures, whether here on earth or in heaven; when they couldn't find pagan temples filled with silver, they sought to please Heaven by capturing the pagans themselves. There still exists a record from a pagan artist that illustrates his understanding of the demands made by the conquerors. In one part of the picture, there's a lake, and nearby a priest pours water over a native's head. On the other side, a poor Indian is shown with a noose around his neck. Lines connect these two scenes to a central figure, a bearded man in full Spanish armor. The interpretation of this artwork is: "Be baptized like this saved pagan, or be hanged like that damned pagan." It’s likely that some of these people preferred a different option and, rather than being baptized or hanged, chose to confine themselves within these canyon walls.

August 17.--Our rations are still spoiling; the bacon is so badly injured that we are compelled to throw it away. By an accident, this morning, the saleratus was lost overboard. We have now only musty flour sufficient for ten days and a few dried apples, but plenty of coffee. We must make all haste possible. If we meet with difficulties such as we have encountered in the canyon above, we may be compelled to give up the expedition and try to reach the Mormon settlements to the north.

August 17.--Our supplies are still going bad; the bacon is so spoiled that we have to toss it out. By accident, we lost the baking soda overboard this morning. We now have only stale flour enough for ten days and a few dried apples, but we have plenty of coffee. We need to move as fast as we can. If we face challenges like those we encountered in the canyon above, we might have to abandon the expedition and try to get to the Mormon settlements to the north.

261

SIGNAL OF SUCCESSFUL WAR PARTY.

SIGN OF A SUCCESSFUL WAR PARTY.

262

A SIGNAL OF PEACE.

A sign of peace.

TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 263

Our hopes are that the worst places are passed, but our barometers are all so much injured as to be useless, and so we have lost our reckoning in altitude, and know not how much descent the river has yet to make. The stream is still wild and rapid and rolls through a narrow channel. We make but slow progress, often landing against a wall and climbing around some point to see the river below. Although very anxious to advance, we are determined to run with great caution, lest by another accident we lose our remaining supplies. How precious that little flour has become! We divide it among the boats and carefully store it away, so that it can be lost only by the loss of the boat itself.

We hope that the worst parts are behind us, but our gauges are so damaged that they’re useless, and we’ve lost track of our altitude, unsure of how much further the river has to drop. The water is still wild and fast, rushing through a narrow channel. Our progress is slow; we often come to a halt against a wall and need to climb around a bend to see the river below. Though we’re eager to move forward, we’re committed to being very cautious, as another accident could mean losing our remaining supplies. That little bit of flour has become so valuable! We split it among the boats and store it carefully so that it can only be lost if we lose the entire boat.

We make ten miles and a half, and camp among the rocks on the right. We have had rain from time to time all day, and have been thoroughly drenched and chilled; but between showers the sun shines with great power and the mercury in our thermometers stands at 115 degrees, so that we have rapid changes from great extremes, which are very disagreeable. It is especially cold in the rain to-night. The little canvas we have is rotten and useless; the rubber ponchos with which we started from Green River City have all been lost; more than half the party are without hats, not one of us has an entire suit of clothes, and we have not a blanket apiece. So we gather driftwood and build a fire; but after supper the rain, coming down in torrents, extinguishes it, and we sit up all night on the rocks, shivering, and are more exhausted by the night's discomfort than by the day's toil.

We cover ten and a half miles and set up camp among the rocks on the right. It's been raining on and off all day, and we've gotten completely soaked and chilled; but in between the showers, the sun shines intensely, and the thermometer reads 115 degrees, leading to rapid shifts from extreme heat to cold, which are quite unpleasant. It's especially cold in the rain tonight. The little canvas we have is torn and useless; the rubber ponchos we started with from Green River City are all gone; more than half the group is without hats, none of us has a full set of clothes, and we don’t have a blanket each. So we gather driftwood and make a fire; but after dinner, the rain comes down in buckets and puts it out, forcing us to sit up all night on the rocks, shivering, feeling more exhausted from the night’s discomfort than from the day’s work.

August 18.--The day is employed in making portages and we advance but two miles on our journey. Still it rains.

August 18.--The day is spent making portages, and we only make two miles on our journey. It’s still raining.

While the men are at work making portages I climb up the granite to its summit and go away back over the rust-colored sandstones and greenish-yellow shales to the foot of the marble wall. I climb so high that the men and boats are lost in the black depths below and the dashing river is a rippling brook, and still there is more canyon above than below. All about me are interesting geologic records. The book is open and I can read as I run. All about me are grand views, too, for the clouds are playing again in the gorges. But somehow I think of the nine days' rations and the bad river, and the lesson of the rocks and the glory of the scene are but half conceived. I push on to an angle, where I hope to get a view of the country

While the guys are busy making portages, I climb up the granite to the top and travel back over the rust-colored sandstones and greenish-yellow shales to the base of the marble wall. I climb so high that the men and boats disappear in the dark depths below, and the rushing river looks like a bubbling brook; yet there's still more canyon above than below. All around me are fascinating geological records. The book is open, and I can read as I move. Surrounding me are stunning views, too, as the clouds are dancing in the gorges once again. But for some reason, I can’t help but think about the nine days' rations and the rough river, and the lessons from the rocks and the beauty of the scene feel only partially realized. I push on to a corner where I hope to get a glimpse of the landscape.

264 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

beyond, to see if possible what the prospect may be of our soon running through this plateau, or at least of meeting with some geologic change that will let us out of the granite; but, arriving at the point, I can see below only a labyrinth of black gorges.

beyond, to see if it’s possible to get an idea of what our chances are of soon passing through this plateau, or at least encountering some geological change that will lead us out of the granite; but upon reaching the point, I can see below only a maze of dark gorges.

August 19.--Rain again this morning. We are in our granite prison still, and the time until noon is occupied in making a long; bad portage.

August 19.--It's raining again this morning. We're still stuck in our granite prison, and we spend the time until noon dealing with a long, challenging portage.

After dinner, in running a rapid the pioneer boat is upset by a wave. We are some distance in advance of the larger boats. The river is rough and swift and we are unable to land, but cling to the boat and are carried down stream over another rapid. The men in the boats above see our trouble, but they are caught in whirlpools and are spinning about in eddies, and it seems a long time before they come to our relief. At last they do come; our boat is turned right side up and bailed out; the oars, which fortunately have floated along in company with us, are gathered up, and on we go, without even landing. The clouds break away and we have sunshine again.

After dinner, while navigating a rapid, the pioneer boat is overturned by a wave. We are quite a bit ahead of the larger boats. The river is rough and fast, and we can’t land, so we cling to the boat and are carried downstream over another rapid. The men in the boats above see our predicament, but they are caught in whirlpools and spinning around in eddies, and it feels like forever before they reach us. Finally, they arrive; our boat is turned upright and emptied; the oars, which luckily floated alongside us, are collected, and we continue on without even stopping. The clouds clear, and we have sunshine again.

Soon we find a little beach with just room enough to land. Here we camp, but there is no wood. Across the river and a little way above, we see some driftwood lodged in the rocks. So we bring two boat loads over, build a huge fire, and spread everything to dry. It is the first cheerful night we have had for a week--a warm, drying fire in the midst of the camp, and a few bright stars in our patch of heavens overhead.

Soon we find a small beach with just enough space to land. Here we camp, but there’s no firewood. Across the river and a bit upstream, we see some driftwood stuck in the rocks. So we bring two boatloads over, build a big fire, and spread everything out to dry. It’s the first cheerful night we’ve had in a week—a warm, drying fire in the center of the camp, and a few bright stars in our little piece of the sky above.

August 20.--The characteristics of the canyon change this morning. The river is broader, the walls more sloping, and composed of black slates that stand on edge. These nearly vertical slates are washed out in places--that is, the softer beds are washed out between the harder, which are left standing. In this way curious little alcoves are formed, in which are quiet bays of water, but on a much smaller scale than the great bays and buttresses of Marble Canyon.

August 20.--The features of the canyon shift this morning. The river is wider, the walls are more sloped, and made of black slates that stand on edge. These almost vertical slates are eroded in some areas—that is, the softer layers are worn away between the harder ones, which remain upright. This creates interesting little alcoves, where there are calm pockets of water, but on a much smaller scale than the large bays and cliffs of Marble Canyon.

The river is still rapid and we stop to let down with lines several times, but make greater progress, as we run ten miles. We camp on the right bank. Here, on a terrace of trap, we discover another group of ruins. There was evidently quite a village on this rock. Again we find mealing-stones and much broken pottery, and up on a little natural shelf in the rock back of the ruins we find a globular basket that would hold

The river is still fast-moving, and we pause several times to drop our lines, but we make better progress, covering ten miles. We set up camp on the right bank. Here, on a flat area of volcanic rock, we uncover another set of ruins. Clearly, there used to be a small village on this rock. Once more, we discover grinding stones and a lot of broken pottery, and up on a small natural ledge in the rock behind the ruins, we find a round basket that could hold

265

MOKI METHOD OF DRESSING THE HAIR.

266

MOKI METHOD OF SPINNING.

Moki spinning method.

TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 267

perhaps a third of a bushel. It is badly broken, and as I attempt to take it up it falls to pieces. There are many beautiful flint chips, also, as if this had been the home of an old arrow-maker.

perhaps a third of a bushel. It's really broken, and when I try to pick it up, it falls apart. There are plenty of lovely flint chips too, like this might have been the home of an ancient arrow maker.

August 21.--We start early this morning, cheered by the prospect of a fine day and encouraged also by the good run made yesterday. A quarter of a mile below camp the river turns abruptly to the left, and between camp and that point is very swift, running down in a long, broken chute and piling up against the foot of the cliff, where it turns to the left. We try to pull across, so as to go down on the other side, but the waters are swift and it seems impossible for us to escape the rock below; but, in pulling across, the bow of the boat is turned to the farther shore, so that we are swept broadside down and are prevented by the rebounding waters from striking against the wall. We toss about for a few seconds in these billows and are then carried past the danger. Below, the river turns again to the right, the canyon is very narrow, and we see in advance but a short distance. The water, too, is very swift, and there is no landing-place. From around this curve there comes a mad roar, and down we are carried with a dizzying velocity to the head of another rapid. On either side high over our heads there are overhanging granite walls, and the sharp bends cut off our view, so that a few minutes will carry us into unknown waters. Away we go on one long, winding chute. I stand on deck, supporting myself with a strap fastened on either side of the gunwale. The boat glides rapidly where the water is smooth, then, striking a wave, she leaps and bounds like a thing of life, and we have a wild, exhilarating ride for ten miles, which we make in less than an hour. The excitement is so great that we forget the danger until we hear the roar of a great fall below; then we back on our oars and are carried slowly toward its head and succeed in landing just above and find that we have to make another portage. At this we are engaged until some time after dinner.

August 21.--We start early this morning, excited by the promise of a great day and encouraged by the good progress we made yesterday. A quarter mile below camp, the river sharply bends to the left, and between camp and that point, it is very fast, rushing down in a long, broken chute and crashing against the foot of the cliff as it veers left. We try to paddle across to continue downstream on the other side, but the water is swift, and it seems impossible to avoid the rock below. However, as we maneuver to cross, the bow of the boat turns toward the farther shore, causing us to be swept sideways and preventing us from slamming against the cliff thanks to the rebounding waters. We bob around for a few seconds in the choppy water and then are carried past the danger. Downstream, the river bends again to the right, and the canyon narrows significantly, limiting our view ahead. The water is also very fast, and there's no place to land. From around this curve, an intense roar approaches, and we are swept away at dizzying speed toward another rapid. On either side, towering granite walls hang high above us, and the sharp turns obstruct our sight, so in just a few minutes, we'll be in unfamiliar waters. We glide down one long, winding chute. I stand on deck, holding onto straps attached to both sides of the gunwale. The boat speeds briskly where the water is smooth, then hits a wave, launching us into the air and giving us a thrilling ride for ten miles, which we cover in under an hour. The thrill is so intense that we momentarily forget the dangers until we hear the roar of a major waterfall ahead; then we pull back on our oars and are carried slowly toward its head, managing to land just above it, only to realize we have to make another portage. We work on that until sometime after dinner.

Just here we run out of the granite. Ten miles in less than half a day, and limestone walls below. Good cheer returns; we forget the storms and the gloom and the cloud-covered canyons and the black granite and the raging river, and push our boats from shore in great glee.

Just here we run out of the granite. Ten miles in less than half a day, and limestone walls below. Everyone's spirits lift; we forget the storms, the gloom, the cloud-covered canyons, the black granite, and the raging river, and we push our boats from shore with great joy.

Though we are out of the granite, the river is still swift, and we wheel about a point again to the right, and turn, so as to head back in the

Though we’re past the granite, the river is still fast, and we pivot around a point to the right again and turn to head back in the

268 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO,

Canyons of the Colorado,

direction from which we came; this brings the granite in sight again, with its narrow gorge and black crags; but we meet with no more great falls or rapids. Still, we run cautiously and stop from time to time to examine some places which look bad. Yet we make ten miles this afternoon; twenty miles in all to-day.

direction from which we came; this brings the granite back into view again, with its narrow gorge and dark cliffs; but we don't encounter any more major waterfalls or rapids. Still, we move cautiously and stop occasionally to check out spots that look risky. However, we cover ten miles this afternoon; twenty miles total for the day.

August 22.--We come to rapids again this morning and are occupied several hours in passing them, letting the boats down from rock to rock with lines for nearly half a mile, and then have to make a long portage. While the men are engaged in this I climb the wall on the northeast to a height of about 2,500 feet, where I can obtain a good view of a long stretch of canyon below. Its course is to the southwest. The walls seem to rise very abruptly for 2,500 or 3,000 feet, and then there is a gently sloping terrace on each side for two or three miles, when we again find cliffs, 1,500 or 2,000 feet high. From the brink of these the plateau stretches back to the north and south for a long distance. Away down the canyon on the right wall I can see a group of mountains, some of which appear to stand on the brink of the canyon. The effect of the terrace is to give the appearance of a narrow winding valley with high walls on either side and a deep, dark, meandering gorge down its middle. It is impossible from this point of view to determine whether or not we have granite at the bottom; but from geologic considerations, I conclude that we shall have marble walls below.

August 22.--Today we encountered rapids again and spent several hours navigating through them, lowering the boats from rock to rock with ropes for nearly half a mile, and then we had to do a long portage. While the crew was busy with this, I climbed the wall on the northeast to about 2,500 feet, where I could get a great view of a long stretch of canyon below. Its direction is southwest. The walls rise sharply for 2,500 to 3,000 feet, followed by gently sloping terraces on each side for two or three miles, before we encounter cliffs that are 1,500 to 2,000 feet high again. From the edge of these cliffs, the plateau extends north and south for a long distance. Far down the canyon on the right wall, I can see a group of mountains, some of which seem to be right on the edge of the canyon. The terrace creates the illusion of a narrow winding valley with high walls on either side and a deep, dark gorge running through the middle. From this viewpoint, it's impossible to tell if there's granite at the bottom, but based on geological evidence, I suspect there will be marble walls below.

After my return to the boats we run another mile and camp for the night. We have made but little over seven miles to-day, and a part of our flour has been soaked in the river again.

After I got back to the boats, we traveled another mile and set up camp for the night. We've only covered a little over seven miles today, and some of our flour has gotten soaked in the river again.

August 23.--Our way to-day is again through marble walls. Now and then we pass for a short distance through patches of granite, like hills thrust up into the limestone. At one of these places we have to make another portage, and, taking advantage of the delay, I go up a little stream to the north, wading it all the way, sometimes having to plunge in to my neck, in other places being compelled to swim across little basins that have been excavated at the foot of the falls. Along its course are many cascades and springs, gushing out from the rocks on either side. Sometimes a cottonwood tree grows over the water. I come to one beautiful fall, of more than 150 feet, and climb around it to the right on the broken rocks. Still going up, the canyon is found to narrow very

August 23.--Today, we're once again traveling through marble walls. Occasionally, we pass briefly through patches of granite, like hills pushed up through the limestone. At one of these spots, we need to make another portage, and while we wait, I venture up a small stream to the north, wading the entire way. Sometimes I have to dive in up to my neck, and in other areas, I have to swim across small pools carved out at the base of the falls. Along the way, there are many cascades and springs bubbling up from the rocks on either side. Occasionally, a cottonwood tree grows over the water. I reach one stunning waterfall that's over 150 feet tall and climb around it to the right on the jagged rocks. Continuing upward, the canyon begins to narrow significantly.

269

AN ALCOVE IN THE RED WALL.

270

KANAB CANYON, NEAR THE JUNCTION.

TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 271

much, being but 15 or 20 feet wide; yet the walls rise on either side many hundreds of feet, perhaps thousands; I can hardly tell.

much, being only 15 or 20 feet wide; yet the walls rise on either side many hundreds of feet, maybe thousands; I can barely tell.

In some places the stream has not excavated its channel down vertically through the rocks, but has cut obliquely, so that one wall overhangs the other. In other places it is cut vertically above and obliquely below, or obliquely above and vertically below, so that it is impossible to see out overhead. But I can go no farther; the time which I estimated it would take to make the portage has almost expired, and I start back on a round trot, wading in the creek where I must and plunging through basins. The men are waiting for me, and away we go on the river.

In some areas, the stream hasn't cut its channel straight down through the rocks but has sliced through at an angle, creating one wall that overhangs the other. In other spots, it's cut straight up top and at an angle below, or at an angle up top and straight below, making it impossible to see what's above. But I can't go any further; the time I thought it would take to carry everything is almost up, so I head back at a quick pace, wading through the creek when I need to and splashing through pools. The guys are waiting for me, and off we go on the river.

Just after dinner we pass a stream on the right, which leaps into' the Colorado by a direct fall of more than 100 feet, forming a beautiful cascade. There is a bed of very hard rock above, 30 or 40 feet in thickness, and there are much softer beds below. The hard beds above project many yards beyond the softer, which are washed out, forming a deep cave behind the fall, and the stream pours through a narrow crevice above into a deep pool below. Around on the rocks in the cavelike chamber are set beautiful ferns, with delicate fronds and enameled stalks. The frondlets have their points turned down to form spore cases. It has very much the appearance of the maidenhair fern, but is much larger. This delicate foliage covers the rocks all about the fountain, and gives the chamber great beauty. But we have little time to spend in admiration; so on we go.

Just after dinner, we pass a stream on the right that drops directly into the Colorado River with a beautiful waterfall that falls over 100 feet. There's a thick bed of hard rock above, about 30 to 40 feet deep, and softer layers below. The hard layer juts out several yards over the softer ones, which have been eroded away, creating a deep cave behind the waterfall. The stream flows through a narrow opening above into a deep pool below. In the rocky, cave-like area, lovely ferns with delicate fronds and glossy stems grow. The tiny frond tips curve down to form spore cases. It looks a lot like maidenhair ferns but is much larger. This delicate greenery covers the rocks around the fountain, adding to the chamber's beauty. However, we don't have much time to admire it, so we move on.

We make fine progress this afternoon, carried along by a swift river, shooting over the rapids and finding no serious obstructions. The canyon walls for 2,500 or 3,000 feet are very regular, rising almost perpendicularly, but here and there set with narrow steps, and occasionally we can see away above the broad terrace to distant cliffs.

We’re making great progress this afternoon, flowing along a fast river, speeding over the rapids and encountering no significant obstacles. The canyon walls rise regularly for 2,500 to 3,000 feet, almost straight up, but here and there they have narrow steps, and occasionally we can see high above the wide terrace to distant cliffs.

We camp to-night in a marble cave, and find on looking at our reckoning that we have run 22 miles.

We’re camping tonight in a marble cave and, upon checking our calculations, we see that we’ve covered 22 miles.

August 24.--The canyon is wider to-day. The walls rise to a vertical height of nearly 3,000 feet. In many places the river runs under a cliff in great curves, forming amphitheaters half-dome shaped.

August 24.--The canyon is wider today. The walls rise to a vertical height of nearly 3,000 feet. In many spots, the river flows beneath a cliff in large curves, creating half-dome shaped amphitheaters.

Though the river is rapid, we meet with no serious obstructions and run 20 miles. How anxious we are to make up our reckoning every time we stop, now that our diet is confined to plenty of coffee, a very

Though the river is fast, we encounter no major obstacles and travel 20 miles. We're so eager to catch up on our calculations every time we pause, especially since our diet is limited to lots of coffee, a very

272 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

little spoiled flour, and very few dried apples! It has come to be a race for a dinner. Still, we make such fine progress that all hands are in good cheer, but not a moment of daylight is lost.

little spoiled flour, and very few dried apples! It's turned into a race for dinner. Still, we’re making such great progress that everyone is in good spirits, but not a moment of daylight is wasted.

August 25.--We make 12 miles this morning, when we come to monuments of lava standing in the river,--low rocks mostly, but some of them shafts more than a hundred feet high. Going on down three or four miles, we find them increasing in number. Great quantities of cooled lava and many cinder cones are seen on either side; and then we come to an abrupt cataract. Just over the fall on the right wall a cinder cone, or extinct volcano, with a well-defined crater, stands on the very brink of the canyon. This, doubtless, is the one we saw two or three days ago. From this volcano vast floods of lava have been poured down into the river, and a stream of molten rock has run up the canyon three or four miles and down we know not how far. Just where it poured over the canyon wall is the fall. The whole north side as far as we can see is lined with the black basalt, and high up on the opposite wall are patches of the same material, resting on the benches and filling old alcoves and caves, giving the wall a spotted appearance.

August 25.--We cover 12 miles this morning, and come across lava formations in the river—mostly low rocks, but some are shafts over a hundred feet tall. Continuing down for three or four miles, we see more of them. There are lots of cooled lava and several cinder cones on both sides, and then we reach a steep waterfall. Just above the fall on the right side, there's a cinder cone, or extinct volcano, with a well-defined crater standing right at the edge of the canyon. This is probably the one we spotted two or three days ago. From this volcano, huge flows of lava have poured into the river, and a stream of molten rock has traveled up the canyon for three or four miles and down who knows how far. The spot where it spilled over the canyon edge is the waterfall. The entire north side, as far as we can see, is lined with black basalt, and high up on the opposite wall are patches of the same material, sitting on ledges and filling old alcoves and caves, giving the wall a speckled look.

The rocks are broken in two along a line which here crosses the river, and the beds we have seen while coming down the canyon for the last 30 miles have dropped 800 feet on the lower side of the line, forming what geologists call a "fault." The volcanic cone stands directly over the fissure thus formed. On the left side of the river, opposite, mammoth springs burst out of this crevice, 100 or 200 feet above the river, pouring in a stream quite equal in volume to the Colorado Chiquito.

The rocks are split in two along a line that crosses the river here, and the layers we've observed while descending the canyon for the last 30 miles have dropped 800 feet on the lower side of that line, creating what geologists refer to as a "fault." The volcanic cone is directly above the crack formed in this manner. On the left side of the river, across from us, massive springs erupt from this opening, 100 to 200 feet above the river, pouring out a stream that is about the same volume as the Colorado Chiquito.

This stream seems to be loaded with carbonate of lime, and the water, evaporating, leaves an incrustation on the rocks; and this process has been continued for a long time, for extensive deposits are noticed in which are basins with bubbling springs. The water is salty.

This stream appears to be full of calcium carbonate, and as the water evaporates, it leaves a buildup on the rocks. This process has been going on for a long time, as there are large deposits with basins that have bubbling springs. The water is salty.

We have to make a portage here, which is completed in about three hours; then on we go.

We need to carry our gear across this section, which will take about three hours; then we can continue on.

We have no difficulty as we float along, and I am able to observe the wonderful phenomena connected with this flood of lava. The canyon was doubtless filled to a height of 1,200 or 1,500 feet, perhaps by more than one flood. This would dam the water back; and in cutting through this great lava bed, a new channel has been formed, sometimes on one

We have no trouble as we drift along, and I can watch the amazing events related to this flow of lava. The canyon was probably filled to a height of 1,200 or 1,500 feet, possibly from more than one eruption. This would block the water, and while cutting through this massive lava field, a new channel has been created, sometimes on one

273

KANAB CANYON, IN THE RED WALL LIMESTONE.

274 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

side, sometimes on the other. The cooled lava, being of firmer texture than the rocks of which the walls are composed, remains in some places; in others a narrow channel has been cut, leaving a line of basalt on either side. It is possible that the lava cooled faster on the sides against the walls and that the center ran out; but of this we can only conjecture. There are other places where almost the whole of the lava is gone, only patches of it being seen, where it has caught on the walls. As we float down we can see that it ran out into side canyons. In some places this basalt has a fine, columnar structure, often in concentric prisms, and masses of these concentric columns have coalesced. In some places, when the flow occurred the canyon was probably about the same depth that it is now, for we can see where the basalt has rolled out on the sands, and--what seems curious to me--the sands are not melted or metamorphosed to any appreciable extent. In places the bed of the river is of sandstone or limestone, in other places of lava, showing that it has all been cut out again where the sandstones and limestones appear; but there is a little yet left where the bed is of lava.

side, sometimes on the other. The cooled lava, being firmer than the rocks that make up the walls, stays in some spots; in others, a narrow channel has been carved out, leaving a line of basalt on both sides. It’s possible that the lava cooled faster against the walls and that the center flowed away; however, this is just speculation. There are other spots where most of the lava is gone, with only patches remaining where it stuck to the walls. As we drift down, we can see it spilled out into side canyons. In some areas, this basalt has a fine, columnar structure, often forming concentric prisms, and clusters of these columns have fused together. In certain spots, when the flow happened, the canyon was probably about the same depth it is now, since we can see where the basalt has rolled out onto the sands, and—curiously—it seems like the sands aren’t significantly melted or changed. In parts, the riverbed consists of sandstone or limestone, while in other areas it’s lava, indicating that it has all been cut out again where the sandstones and limestones appear; however, there is still a bit left where the bed is lava.

What a conflict of water and fire there must have been here! Just imagine a river of molten rock running down into a river of melted snow. What a seething and boiling of the waters; what clouds of steam rolled into the heavens!

What a clash of water and fire there must have been here! Just picture a river of molten rock flowing into a river of melted snow. What a roiling and bubbling of the waters; what clouds of steam rose into the sky!

Thirty-five miles to-day. Hurrah!

Thirty-five miles today. Hurrah!

August 26.--The canyon walls are steadily becoming higher as we advance. They are still bold and nearly vertical up to the terrace. We still see evidence of the eruption discovered yesterday, but the thickness of the basalt is decreasing as we go down stream; yet it has been reinforced at points by streams that have come down from volcanoes standing on the terrace above, but which we cannot see from the river below.

August 26.--The canyon walls are getting taller as we move forward. They remain steep and almost vertical up to the terrace. We can still see signs of the eruption we found yesterday, but the thickness of the basalt is getting thinner as we go downstream; however, it has been added to at certain spots by flows coming down from volcanoes located on the terrace above, which we can't see from the river below.

Since we left the Colorado Chiquito we have seen no evidences that the tribe of Indians inhabiting the plateaus on either side ever come down to the river; but about eleven o'clock to-day we discover an Indian garden at the foot of the wall on the right, just where a little stream with a narrow flood plain comes down through a side canyon. Along the valley the Indians have planted corn, using for irrigation the water which bursts out in springs at the foot of the cliff. The corn is looking quite

Since we left the Colorado Chiquito, we haven’t seen any signs that the tribe of Indians living on the plateaus on either side ever comes down to the river. However, around eleven o'clock today, we discovered an Indian garden at the base of the wall on the right, right where a small stream with a narrow floodplain flows down through a side canyon. The Indians have planted corn along the valley, using the water that springs out at the base of the cliff for irrigation. The corn is looking quite

TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON.

275

well, but it is not sufficiently advanced to give us roasting ears; but there are some nice green squashes. We carry ten or a dozen of these on board our boats and hurriedly leave, not willing to be caught in the robbery, yet excusing ourselves by pleading our great want. We run down a short distance to where we feel certain no Indian can follow, and what a kettle of squash sauce we make! True, we have no salt with which to season it, but it makes a fine addition to our unleavened bread and coffee. Never was fruit so sweet as these stolen squashes.

Well, it’s not quite mature enough for us to enjoy fresh corn, but there are some nice green squashes. We grab ten or so of these and quickly leave, not wanting to get caught stealing, yet justifying our actions by saying we really need them. We head a short distance away to a place where we’re sure no Native American can track us down, and what a delicious squash sauce we make! Sure, we don’t have any salt to season it, but it’s a great addition to our flatbread and coffee. Never have I tasted fruit as sweet as these stolen squashes.

After dinner we push on again and make fine time, finding many rapids, but none so bad that we cannot run them with safety; and when we stop, just at dusk, and foot up our reckoning, we find we have run 35 miles again. A few days like this, and we are out of prison.

After dinner, we push forward again and move at a good pace, encountering many rapids, but none that are too dangerous for us to navigate safely. When we finally stop at dusk and tally our progress, we realize we've covered 35 miles once more. A few more days like this, and we'll be free.

We have a royal supper--unleavened bread, green squash sauce, and strong coffee. We have been for a few days on half rations, but now have no stint of roast squash.

We have a royal supper—unleavened bread, green squash sauce, and strong coffee. We've been on half rations for a few days, but now there’s no shortage of roast squash.

THE BRINK OF THE INNER GORGE.

THE EDGE OF THE INNER GORGE.

276

THE GRAND CANYON OF THE COLORADO, SHOWING AMPHITHEATER AND SCULPTURED BUTTES.

THE GRAND CANYON OF THE COLORADO, SHOWING AMPHITHEATER AND SCULPTED BUTTES.

TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 277

August 27.--This morning the river takes a more southerly direction. The dip of the rocks is to the north and we are running rapidly into lower formations. Unless our course changes we shall very soon run again into the granite. This gives some anxiety. Now and then the river turns to the west and excites hopes that are soon destroyed by another turn to the south. About nine o'clock we come to the dreaded rock. It is with no little misgiving that we see the river enter these black, hard walls. At its very entrance we have to make a portage; then let down with lines past some ugly rocks. We run a mile or two farther, and then the rapids below can be seen.

August 27.--This morning the river is flowing more to the south. The rocks slope to the north and we're quickly moving into lower formations. Unless we change direction, we'll soon encounter granite again, which is pretty concerning. Every now and then the river veers west, giving us a glimmer of hope, only to be dashed by another turn to the south. Around nine o'clock, we reach the dreaded rock. With a fair amount of apprehension, we watch the river enter these black, hard cliffs. Right at the entrance, we have to carry our gear around it, then lower ourselves with ropes past some nasty rocks. We travel another mile or two and can see the rapids ahead.

About eleven o'clock we come to a place in the river which seems much worse than any we have yet met in all its course. A little creek comes down from the left. We land first on the right and clamber up over the granite pinnacles for a mile or two, but can see no way by which to let down, and to run it would be sure destruction. After dinner we cross to examine on the left. High above the river we can walk along on the top of the granite, which is broken off at the edge and set with crags and pinnacles, so that it is very difficult to get a view of the river at all. In my eagerness to reach a point where I can see the roaring fall below, I go too far on the wall, and can neither advance nor retreat. I stand with one foot on a little projecting rock and cling with my hand fixed in a little crevice. Finding I am caught here, suspended 400 feet above the river, into which I must fall if my footing fails, I call for help. The men come and pass me a line, but I cannot let go of the rock long enough to take hold of it. Then they bring two or three of the largest oars. All this takes time which seems very precious to me; but at last they arrive. The blade of one of the oars is pushed into a little crevice in the rock beyond me in such a manner that they can hold me pressed against the wall. Then another is fixed in such a way that I can step on it; and thus I am extricated.

About eleven o'clock, we reach a spot in the river that looks much worse than anything we've encountered so far. A small creek flows down from the left. We first land on the right and scramble over the granite peaks for a mile or two, but there's no way to get down, and trying to run it would mean certain disaster. After lunch, we cross over to check things out on the left. High above the river, we can walk along the top of the granite, which is jagged at the edge with cliffs and spires, making it hard to see the river at all. Eager to find a place where I can see the roaring waterfall below, I venture too far along the ledge and find myself stuck—I can't move forward or back. I'm standing with one foot on a small protruding rock, clinging to a little crevice with my hand. Realizing I’m trapped here, suspended 400 feet above the river, I’ll fall if I lose my grip, so I call for help. The guys come over and toss me a rope, but I can't let go of the rock long enough to grab it. Then they bring over two or three of the biggest oars. This all takes what feels like precious time to me, but eventually, they get to me. They wedge the blade of one of the oars into a little crevice in the rock beyond me, allowing them to hold me against the wall. Then they secure another so I can step on it, and that’s how I manage to get out.

Still another hour is spent in examining the river from this side, but no good view of it is obtained; so now we return to the side that was first examined, and the afternoon is spent in clambering among the crags and pinnacles and carefully scanning the river again. We find that the lateral streams have washed boulders into the river, so as to form a dam, over which the water makes a broken fall of 18 or 20 feet; then there is

Still another hour is spent looking at the river from this side, but we don’t get a good view of it; so now we head back to the side we first explored, and we spend the afternoon climbing among the rocks and peaks, carefully checking out the river again. We discover that the side streams have carried boulders into the river, creating a dam, over which the water flows in a broken fall of 18 or 20 feet; then there is

278 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

a rapid, beset with rocks, for 200 or 300 yards, while on the other side, points of the wall project into the river. Below, there is a second fall; how great, we cannot tell. Then there is a rapid, filled with huge rocks, for 100 or 200 yards. At the bottom of it, from the right wall, a great rock projects quite halfway across the river. It has a sloping surface extending up stream, and the water, coming down with all the momentum gained in the falls and rapids above, rolls up this inclined plane many feet, and tumbles over to the left. I decide that it is possible to let down over the first fall, then run near the right cliff to a point just above the second, where we can pull out into a little chute, and, having run over that in safety, if we pull with all our power across the stream, we may avoid the great rock below. On my return to the boat I announce to the men that we are to run it in the morning. Then we cross the river and go into camp for the night on some rocks in the mouth of the little side canyon.

a fast-moving stretch of water, filled with rocks, for 200 or 300 yards, while on the other side, parts of the cliff stick out into the river. Below, there's another waterfall; how big, we can't tell. Then there's another rapid, crowded with huge rocks, for 100 or 200 yards. At the end of it, on the right side, a massive rock juts out nearly halfway across the river. It has a sloping surface leaning upstream, and the water, rushing down with all the speed gained from the falls and rapids above, rolls up this inclined plane several feet and crashes over to the left. I figure that it's possible to go down over the first waterfall, then run close to the right cliff to a spot just above the second, where we can pull into a little channel, and after safely navigating that, if we paddle with all our strength across the stream, we might avoid the big rock downstream. On my way back to the boat, I tell the guys that we'll tackle it in the morning. Then we cross the river and set up camp for the night on some rocks at the entrance of the small side canyon.

After supper Captain Howland asks to have a talk with me. We walk up the little creek a short distance, and I soon find that his object is to remonstrate against my determination to proceed. He thinks that we had better abandon the river here. Talking with him, I learn that he, his brother, and William Dunn have determined to go no farther in the boats. So we return to camp. Nothing is said to the other men.

After dinner, Captain Howland asks to talk with me. We walk a short way up the small creek, and I quickly realize he wants to discuss my decision to continue. He believes we should give up on the river here. During our conversation, I find out that he, his brother, and William Dunn have decided not to go any farther in the boats. So, we head back to camp. Nothing is mentioned to the other men.

For the last two days our course has not been plotted. I sit down and do this now, for the purpose of finding where we are by dead reckoning. It is a clear night, and I take out the sextant to make observation for latitude, and I find that the astronomic determination agrees very nearly with that of the plot--quite as closely as might be expected from a meridian observation on a planet. In a direct line, we must be about 45 miles from the mouth of the Rio Virgen. If we can reach that point, we know that there are settlements up that river about 20 miles. This 45 miles in a direct line will probably be 80 or 90 by the meandering line of the river. But then we know that there is comparatively open country for many miles above the mouth of the Virgen, which is our point of destination.

For the last two days, our course hasn’t been plotted. I’m sitting down to do that now in order to figure out where we are using dead reckoning. It’s a clear night, so I pull out the sextant to take a latitude reading, and I find that my astronomical measurement matches up quite closely with the plotted course—just as you’d expect from a meridian observation on a planet. In a straight line, we’re about 45 miles from the mouth of the Rio Virgen. If we can get there, we know there are settlements along that river about 20 miles in. This 45 miles in a straight path will likely be around 80 or 90 miles following the winding river. But we also know that there’s relatively open land for many miles above the mouth of the Virgen, which is our destination point.

As soon as I determine all this, I spread my plot on the sand and wake Howland, who is sleeping down by the river, and show him where I suppose we are, and where several Mormon settlements are situated.

As soon as I figure all this out, I lay my map on the sand and wake Howland, who is sleeping by the river, and show him where I think we are and where some Mormon settlements are located.

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279

We have another short talk about the morrow, and he lies down again; but for me there is no sleep. All night long I pace up and down a little path, on a few yards of sand beach, along by the river. Is it wise to go on? I go to the boats again to look at our rations. I feel satisfied that we can get over the danger immediately before us; what there may be below I know not. From our outlook yesterday on the cliffs, the canyon seemed to make another great bend to the south, and this, from our experience heretofore, means more and higher granite walls. I am not sure that we can climb out of the canyon here, and, if at the top of the wall, I know enough of the country to be certain that it is a desert of rock and sand between this and the nearest Mormon town, which, on the most direct line, must be 75 miles away. True, the late rains have been favorable to us, should we go out, for the probabilities are that we shall find water still standing in holes; and at one time I almost conclude to leave the river. But for years I have

We have another quick chat about tomorrow, and he lies down again; but I can’t sleep. All night, I pace back and forth on a small path along the river's sandy beach. Is it smart to keep going? I head back to the boats to check our supplies. I feel confident that we can handle the immediate danger, but I have no idea what lies ahead. From our view yesterday on the cliffs, it looked like the canyon made another sharp turn to the south, which usually means more tall granite walls based on our past experiences. I'm not sure if we can climb out of the canyon here, and if we do get to the top of the wall, I know enough about the area to realize that it's a desert of rock and sand between here and the nearest Mormon town, which must be about 75 miles away on the straightest path. The recent rains have worked in our favor, though, if we do decide to leave the river, because there's a good chance we’ll find some standing water in holes; at one point, I almost decide to leave the river. But for years, I have

CLIMBING THE GRAND CANYON WALL.

280 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

been contemplating this trip. To leave the exploration unfinished, to say that there is a part of the canyon which I cannot explore, having already nearly accomplished it, is more than I am willing to acknowledge, and I determine to go on.

been thinking about this trip. To leave the exploration incomplete, to admit that there's a part of the canyon I can't explore after almost finishing it, is more than I’m willing to accept, so I decide to carry on.

I wake my brother and tell him of Howland's determination, and he promises to stay with me; then I call up Hawkins, the cook, and he makes a like promise; then Sumner and Bradley and Hall, and they all agree to go on.

I wake up my brother and tell him about Howland's determination, and he promises to stick with me; then I call for Hawkins, the cook, and he makes the same promise; then Sumner, Bradley, and Hall all agree to continue on.

August 28.--At last daylight comes and we have breakfast without a word being said about the future. The meal is as solemn as a funeral. After breakfast I ask the three men if they still think it best to leave us. The elder Howland thinks it is, and Dunn agrees with him. The younger Howland tries to persuade them to go on with the party; failing in which, he decides to go with his brother.

August 28.--Finally, daylight arrives, and we have breakfast without mentioning what's ahead. The meal is as serious as a funeral. After breakfast, I ask the three men if they still believe it's best to leave us. The older Howland thinks it is, and Dunn agrees with him. The younger Howland tries to convince them to continue with the group; when that fails, he decides to join his brother.

Then we cross the river. The small boat is very much disabled and unseaworthy. With the loss of hands, consequent on the departure of the three men, we shall not be able to run all of the boats; so I decide to leave my "Emma Dean."

Then we cross the river. The small boat is very damaged and not safe to use. With the loss of crew, due to the departure of the three men, we won’t be able to operate all the boats; so I decide to leave my "Emma Dean."

Two rifles and a shotgun are given to the men who are going out. I ask them to help themselves to the rations and take what they think to be a fair share. This they refuse to do, saying they have no fear but that they can get something to eat; but Billy, the cook, has a pan of biscuits prepared for dinner, and these he leaves on a rock.

Two rifles and a shotgun are handed to the men who are heading out. I tell them to take whatever rations they think is fair. They decline, saying they’re not worried about finding something to eat; however, Billy, the cook, has prepared a pan of biscuits for dinner, and he leaves them on a rock.

Before starting, we take from the boat our barometers, fossils, the minerals, and some ammunition and leave them on the rocks. We are going over this place as light as possible. The three men help us lift our boats over a rock 25 or 30 feet high and let them down again over the first fall, and now we are all ready to start. The last thing before leaving, I write a letter to my wife and give it to Howland. Sumner gives him his watch, directing that it be sent to his sister should he not be heard from again. The records of the expedition have been kept in duplicate. One set of these is given to Howland; and now we are ready. For the last time they entreat us not to go on, and tell us that it is madness to set out in this place; that we can never get safely through it; and, further, that the river turns again to the south into the granite, and a few miles of such rapids and falls will exhaust our entire stock of rations, and then

Before we head out, we take our barometers, fossils, minerals, and some ammunition from the boat and leave them on the rocks. We're going over this place as light as possible. The three men help us lift our boats over a rock about 25 or 30 feet high and then lower them down over the first waterfall, and now we’re all set to go. The last thing I do before leaving is write a letter to my wife and hand it to Howland. Sumner gives him his watch, asking that it be sent to his sister if he doesn’t make it back. We've kept duplicate records of the expedition. One set goes to Howland; now we’re ready. For the last time, they urge us not to go on, saying it's crazy to head out in this place; that we won't make it through safely; and, moreover, that the river bends south again into the granite, and a few miles of these rapids and falls will use up all our rations, and then

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it will be too late to climb out. Some tears are shed; it is rather a solemn parting; each party thinks the other is taking the dangerous course.

it will be too late to escape. Some tears are shed; it’s a pretty serious goodbye; each side thinks the other is choosing the risky path.

My old boat left, I go on board of the "Maid of the Canyon." The three men climb a crag that overhangs the river to watch us off. The "Maid of the Canyon" pushes out. We glide rapidly along the foot of the wall, just grazing one great rock, then pull out a little into the chute of the second fall and plunge over it. The open compartment is filled when we strike the first wave below, but we cut through it, and then the men pull with all their power toward the left wall and swing clear of the dangerous rock below all right. We are scarcely a minute in running it, and find that, although it looked bad from above, we have passed many places that were worse. The other boat follows without more difficulty. We land at the first

My old boat has left, and I've boarded the "Maid of the Canyon." The three men climb up a rocky outcrop that hangs over the river to see us off. The "Maid of the Canyon" sets sail. We glide quickly along the base of the cliff, just missing one huge rock, then steer a bit into the flow of the second waterfall and plunge over it. The open area fills with water when we hit the first wave below, but we slice right through it, and then the men exert all their strength to pull toward the left wall and steer clear of the dangerous rock below. We're only in it for about a minute, and we find that, despite how bad it looked from above, we've already passed many spots that were even worse. The other boat follows without any issues. We land at the first

TRIANGULATION STATION.

Triangulation Station.

282 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

practicable point below, and fire our guns, as a signal to the men above that we have come over in safety. Here we remain a couple of hours, hoping that they will take the smaller boat and follow us. We are behind a curve in the canyon and cannot see up to where we left them, and so we wait until their coming seems hopeless, and then push on.

practicable point below, and fire our guns, as a signal to the men above that we have made it over safely. Here we stay for a couple of hours, hoping that they will take the smaller boat and follow us. We are behind a bend in the canyon and can’t see where we left them, so we wait until it seems like they’re not coming, and then we move on.

And now we have a succession of rapids and falls until noon, all of which we run in safety. Just after dinner we come to another bad place. A little stream comes in from the left, and below there is a fall, and still below another fall. Above, the river tumbles down, over and among the rocks, in whirlpools and great waves, and the waters are lashed into mad, white foam. We run along the left, above this, and soon see that we cannot get down on this side, but it seems possible to let down on the other. We pull up stream again for 200 or 300 yards and cross. Now there is a bed of basalt on this northern side of the canyon, with a bold escarpment that seems to be a hundred feet high. We can climb it and walk along its summit to a point where we are just at the head of the fall. Here the basalt is broken down again, so it seems to us, and I direct the men to take a line to the top of the cliff and let the boats down along the wall. One man remains in the boat to keep her clear of the rocks and prevent her line from being caught on the projecting angles. I climb the cliff and pass along to a point just over the fall and descend by broken rocks, and find that the break of the fall is above the break of the wall, so that we cannot land, and that still below the river is very bad, and that there is no possibility of a portage. Without waiting further to examine and determine what shall be done, I hasten back to the top of the cliff to stop the boats from coming down. When I arrive I find the men have let one of them down to the head of the fall. She is in swift water and they are not able to pull her back; nor are they able to go on with the line, as it is not long enough to reach the higher part of the cliff which is just before them; so they take a bight around a crag. I send two men back for the other line. The boat is in very swift water, and Bradley is standing in the open compartment, holding out his oar to prevent her from striking against the foot of the cliff. Now she shoots out into the stream and up as far as the line will permit, and then, wheeling, drives headlong against the rock, and then out and back again, now straining

And now we have a series of rapids and falls until noon, all of which we navigate safely. Just after lunch, we encounter another tricky spot. A small stream flows in from the left, and below it is a waterfall, with another waterfall further down. Above, the river rushes over and between the rocks, creating whirlpools and huge waves, and the water is whipped into crazy white foam. We travel along the left side, but soon realize we can't get down on this side; however, it looks possible to descend on the other side. We paddle upstream for 200 or 300 yards and cross over. Now there's a bed of basalt on this northern side of the canyon, featuring a steep cliff that appears to be about a hundred feet high. We can climb it and walk along the top to a point right at the edge of the fall. Here, the basalt seems to break down again, so I instruct the team to take a rope to the top of the cliff and lower the boats along the wall. One person stays in the boat to keep it clear of the rocks and ensure the rope doesn’t get snagged on the jutting edges. I climb the cliff and make my way to a spot right over the fall, then descend through the broken rocks. I discover that the drop is above the edge of the wall, so we can’t land, and the water below is very dangerous, with no chance for a portage. Without taking more time to assess what to do, I hurry back to the top of the cliff to stop the boats from coming down. When I arrive, I find that the team has let one boat down to the head of the fall. It's in fast-moving water, and they're unable to pull it back; nor can they continue with the rope, as it's not long enough to reach the higher part of the cliff right in front of them, so they loop it around a rock. I send two men back for the other rope. The boat is in very swift water, and Bradley is standing in the open compartment, extending his oar to keep it from hitting the bottom of the cliff. Now it shoots out into the current and as far up as the rope will allow, then turns and crashes into the rock, bouncing back and forth, now straining.

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on the line, now striking against the rock. As soon as the second line is brought, we pass it down to him; but his attention is all taken up with his own situation, and he does not see that we are passing him the line. I stand on a projecting rock, waving my hat to gain his attention, for my voice is drowned by the roaring of the falls. Just at this moment I see him take his knife from its sheath and step forward to cut the line. He has evidently decided that it is better to go over with the boat as it is than to wait for her to be broken to pieces. As he leans over, the boat sheers again into the stream, the stem-post breaks away and she is loose. With perfect composure Bradley seizes the great scull oar, places it in the stern rowlock, and pulls with all his power (and he is an athlete) to turn the bow of the boat down stream, for he wishes to go bow down, rather than to drift broadside on. One, two strokes he makes, and a third just as she goes over, and the boat is fairly turned, and she goes down almost beyond our sight, though we are more than a hundred feet above the river. Then she comes up again on a great wave, and down and up, then around behind some great rocks, and is lost in the mad, white foam below. We stand frozen with fear, for we see no boat. Bradley is gone! so it seems. But now, away below, we see something coming out of the waves. It is evi-

on the line, now striking against the rock. As soon as the second line is brought, we pass it down to him; but his attention is completely on his own situation, and he doesn’t notice that we’re passing him the line. I stand on a jutting rock, waving my hat to get his attention, because my voice is drowned out by the roaring of the falls. At this moment, I see him take his knife from its sheath and step forward to cut the line. He has clearly decided it’s better to go over with the boat as it is than to wait for it to break apart. As he leans over, the boat veers again into the stream, the stem-post breaks away, and she is loose. With perfect calm, Bradley grabs the big scull oar, places it in the stern rowlock, and pulls with all his strength (and he’s an athlete) to turn the bow of the boat downstream, since he wants to go bow first rather than drift sideways. He takes one, two strokes, and a third just as she tips over, successfully turning the boat, which goes down almost beyond our sight, even though we’re over a hundred feet above the river. Then it surfaces again on a huge wave, down and up, then behind some large rocks, and is lost in the wild, white foam below. We stand frozen in fear, as we see no boat. Bradley is gone! or so it seems. But now, far below, we see something emerging from the waves. It is clear -

CAVATE HOUSES

Cave houses

284 CANTONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANTONS.

dently a boat. A moment more, and we see Bradley standing on deck, swinging his hat to show that he is all right. But he is in a whirlpool. We have the stem-post of his boat attached to the line. How badly she may be disabled we know not. I direct Sumner and Powell to pass along the cliff and see if they can reach him from below. Hawkins, Hall, and myself run to the other boat, jump aboard, push out, and away we go over the falls. A wave rolls over us and our boat is unmanageable. Another great wave strikes us, and the boat rolls over, and tumbles and tosses, I know not how. All I know is that Bradley is picking us up. We soon have all right again, and row to the cliff and wait until Sumner and Powell can come. After a difficult climb they reach us. We run two or three miles farther and turn again to the northwest, continuing until night, when we have run out of the granite once more.

Suddenly, we spot a boat. A moment later, we see Bradley standing on deck, waving his hat to show he’s okay. But he’s caught in a whirlpool. We have the stem-post of his boat attached to our line. We don’t know how badly it might be damaged. I tell Sumner and Powell to make their way along the cliff and see if they can get to him from below. Hawkins, Hall, and I rush to the other boat, jump in, push off, and head over the falls. A wave crashes over us, and our boat becomes impossible to steer. Another huge wave hits us, and the boat flips, tumbles, and tosses in ways I can’t describe. All I know is that Bradley is coming to rescue us. We soon get ourselves sorted out and row to the cliff to wait for Sumner and Powell. After a tough climb, they reach us. We travel another two or three miles and then turn northwest again, continuing until nightfall, when we’ve finally made it out of the granite once more.

August 29.--We start very early this morning. The river still continues swift, but we have no serious difficulty, and at twelve o'clock emerge from the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. We are in a valley now, and low mountains are seen in the distance, coming to the river below. We recognize this as the Grand Wash.

August 29.--We set out early this morning. The river is still moving quickly, but we don’t face any major challenges, and by noon we exit the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. Now we're in a valley, with low mountains visible in the distance leading down to the river. We identify this area as the Grand Wash.

A few years ago a party of Mormons set out from St. George, Utah, taking with them a boat, and came down to the Grand Wash, where they divided, a portion of the party crossing the river to explore the San Francisco Mountains. Three men--Hamblin, Miller, and Crosby--taking the boat, went on down the river to Callville, landing a few miles below the mouth of the Rio Virgen. We have their manuscript journal with us, and so the stream is comparatively well known.

A few years ago, a group of Mormons left St. George, Utah, taking a boat with them, and traveled down to the Grand Wash, where they split up. Some members of the group crossed the river to explore the San Francisco Mountains. Three men—Hamblin, Miller, and Crosby—took the boat and continued down the river to Callville, landing a few miles below the mouth of the Rio Virgen. We have their handwritten journal with us, so the river is relatively well documented.

To-night we camp on the left bank, in a mesquite thicket.

To night we set up camp on the left bank, in a mesquite thicket.

The relief from danger and the joy of success are great. When he who has been chained by wounds to a hospital cot until his canvas tent seems like a dungeon cell, until the groans of those who lie about tortured with probe and knife are piled up, a weight of horror on his ears that he cannot throw off, cannot forget, and until the stench of festering wounds and anaesthetic drugs has filled the air with its loathsome burthen,--when he at last goes out into the open field, what a world he sees! How beautiful the sky, how bright the sunshine, what "floods of delirious music" pour from the throats of birds, how sweet the fragrance

The relief from danger and the joy of success are immense. When someone who has been stuck in a hospital bed due to injuries, where the canvas tent feels like a prison cell, and the groans of others suffering from probes and knives are a heavy weight in his ears that he can't shake off or forget, and the terrible smell of infected wounds and anesthetic drugs has filled the air with its disgusting presence—when he finally steps outside into the open field, what a world he sees! How beautiful the sky is, how bright the sunshine shines, what "floods of delirious music" the birds sing, how sweet the fragrance is!

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285

of earth and tree and blossom! The first hour of convalescent freedom seems rich recompense for all pain and gloom and terror.

of earth and trees and flowers! The first hour of recovering freedom feels like a rich reward for all the pain, sadness, and fear.

Something like these are the feelings we experience to-night. Ever before us has been an unknown danger, heavier than immediate peril. Every waking hour passed in the Grand Canyon has been one of toil. We have watched with deep solicitude the steady disappearance of our scant supply of rations, and from time to time have seen the river snatch a portion of the little left, while we were a-hungered. And danger and toil were endured in those gloomy depths, where ofttimes clouds hid the sky by day and but a narrow zone of stars could be seen at night. Only during the few hours of deep sleep, consequent on hard labor, has the roar of the waters been hushed. Now the danger is over, now the toil has ceased, now the gloom has disappeared, now the firmament is bounded only by the horizon, and what a vast expanse of constellations can be seen!

Something like this is how we feel tonight. We've faced an unknown danger, heavier than immediate threats. Every hour spent in the Grand Canyon has been a struggle. We've watched with deep concern as our limited food supply steadily dwindled, and at times we've seen the river take away what little we had left while we were hungry. We endured danger and hardship in those dark depths, where clouds often blocked the sky during the day, and only a narrow band of stars was visible at night. The roar of the waters was only silenced during the few hours of deep sleep that followed our hard work. Now the danger has passed, the toil has ended, the gloom is gone, and the sky extends all the way to the horizon, revealing a vast expanse of constellations!

The river rolls by us in silent majesty; the quiet of the camp is sweet; our joy is almost ecstasy. We sit till long after midnight talking of the Grand Canyon, talking of home, but talking chiefly of the three men who left us. Are they wandering in those depths, unable to find a way out? Are they searching over the desert lands above for water? Or are they nearing the settlements?

The river flows past us in silent grandeur; the stillness of the camp is comforting; our happiness is nearly overwhelming. We stay up well past midnight, discussing the Grand Canyon, reminiscing about home, but mostly talking about the three men who went ahead. Are they lost in those depths, unable to find their way back? Are they scouring the desert above for water? Or are they getting closer to the towns?

August 30.--We run in two or three short, low canyons to-day, and on emerging from one we discover a band of Indians in the valley below. They see us, and scamper away in eager haste to hide among the rocks. Although we land and call for them to return, not an Indian can be seen.

August 30.--Today, we went through a couple of short, low canyons, and when we came out of one, we spotted a group of Native Americans in the valley below. They saw us and quickly ran off to hide among the rocks. Even though we landed and called for them to come back, we couldn't see a single Indian.

STANDING BOCKS.

STANDING BOXES.

286 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

Two or three miles farther down, in turning a short bend of the river, we come upon another camp. So near are we before they can see us that I can shout to them, and, being able to speak a little of their language, I tell them we are friends; but they all flee to the rocks, except a man, a woman, and two children. We land and talk with them. They are without lodges, but have built little shelters of boughs, under which' they wallow in the sand. The man is dressed in a hat; the woman, in a string of beads only. At first they are evidently much terrified; but when I talk to them in their own language and tell them we are friends, and inquire after people in the Mormon towns, they are soon reassured and beg for tobacco. Of this precious article we have none to spare. Sumner looks around in the boat for something to give them, and finds a little piece of colored soap, which they receive as a valuable present,--rather as a thing of beauty than as a useful commodity, however. They are either unwilling or unable to tell us anything about the Indians or white people, and so we push off, for we must lose no time.

Two or three miles further along, as we navigate a short bend in the river, we discover another camp. We're so close before they notice us that I can shout to them, and since I can speak a bit of their language, I tell them we are friends; however, everyone runs to the rocks except for a man, a woman, and two children. We land and talk with them. They don’t have any lodges but have made small shelters from branches, where they rest in the sand. The man is wearing a hat, while the woman is dressed only with a string of beads. At first, they seem very scared, but when I speak to them in their language and assure them we are friends, and ask about people in the Mormon towns, they quickly calm down and ask for tobacco. Unfortunately, we don’t have any to spare. Sumner looks around in the boat for something to give them and finds a small piece of colored soap, which they accept as a valuable gift—more for its beauty than its usefulness. They either don’t want to or can’t tell us anything about the Indians or white folks, so we decide to push off, as we can’t afford to waste any time.

We camp at noon under the right bank. And now as we push out we are in great expectancy, for we hope every minute to discover the mouth of the Rio Virgen. Soon one of the men exclaims: "Yonder's an Indian in the river." Looking for a few minutes, we certainly do see two or three persons. The men bend to their oars and pull toward them. Approaching, we see that there are three white men and an Indian hauling a seine, and then we discover that it is just at the mouth of the long-sought river.

We set up camp at noon on the right bank. Now as we push off, we feel excited because we hope to find the mouth of the Rio Virgen any minute. Soon one of the guys shouts, "Look! There's an Indian in the river." After watching for a few minutes, we definitely spot two or three people. The men lean into their oars and row toward them. As we get closer, we see that there are three white men and an Indian pulling a seine, and then we realize that we’re right at the entrance of the long-sought river.

As we come near, the men seem far less surprised to see us than we do to see them. They evidently know who we are, and on talking with them they tell us that we have been reported lost long ago, and that some weeks before a messenger had been sent from Salt Lake City with instructions for them to watch for any fragments or relics of our party that might drift down the stream.

As we approach, the men appear much less shocked to see us than we are to see them. They clearly know who we are, and when we talk to them, they inform us that we were reported missing a long time ago. They also mention that several weeks earlier, a messenger had come from Salt Lake City with instructions for them to look out for any remains or items from our group that might come downstream.

Our new-found friends, Mr. Asa and his two sons, tell us that they are pioneers of a town that is to be built on the bank. Eighteen or twenty miles up the valley of the Rio Virgen there are two Mormon towns, St. Joseph and St. Thomas. To-night we dispatch an Indian to the last-mentioned place to bring any letters that may be there for us.

Our new friends, Mr. Asa and his two sons, tell us that they are pioneers of a town that will be built along the bank. Eighteen or twenty miles up the valley of the Rio Virgen, there are two Mormon towns, St. Joseph and St. Thomas. Tonight, we’re sending an Indian to the latter to pick up any letters that might be waiting for us.

Our arrival here is very opportune. When we look over our store of

Our arrival here is perfectly timed. When we review our supply of

TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANTON.

TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON.

287

supplies, we find about 10 pounds of flour, 15 pounds of dried apples, but 70 or 80 pounds of coffee.

August 31.--This afternoon the Indian returns with a letter informing us that Bishop Leithhead of St. Thomas and two or three other Mormons are coming down with a wagon, bringing us supplies. They arrive about sundown. Mr. Asa treats us with great kindness to the extent of his ability; but Bishop Leithhead brings in his wagon two or three dozen melons and many other little luxuries, and we are comfortable once more.

August 31.-- This afternoon, the Indian returns with a letter letting us know that Bishop Leithhead of St. Thomas and a couple of other Mormons are coming down with a wagon to bring us supplies. They arrive around sunset. Mr. Asa is very kind to us within his means, but Bishop Leithhead rolls in with his wagon loaded with a couple dozen melons and plenty of other little treats, and we feel comfortable again.

September 1.--This morning Sumner, Bradley, Hawkins, and Hall, taking on a small supply of rations, start down the Colorado with the boats. It is their intention to go to Fort Mojave, and perhaps from there overland to Los Angeles.

September 1.--This morning, Sumner, Bradley, Hawkins, and Hall, grabbing a small supply of food, head down the Colorado with the boats. They plan to go to Fort Mojave and maybe from there go overland to Los Angeles.

Captain Powell and myself return with Bishop Leithhead to St. Thomas. From St. Thomas we go to Salt Lake City.

Captain Powell and I return with Bishop Leithhead to St. Thomas. From St. Thomas, we head to Salt Lake City.

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MOUNT TRUMBULL, FROM MOUNT LOGAN.

289

CHAPTER XII.

CHAPTER 12.

THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS.

A YEAR has passed, and we have determined to resume the exploration of the canyons of the Colorado. Our last trip was so hurried, owing to the loss of rations, and the scientific instruments were so badly injured, that we are not satisfied with the results obtained; so we shall once more attempt to pass through the canyons in boats, devoting two or three years to the trip.

A year has gone by, and we've decided to continue exploring the canyons of the Colorado. Our last trip was rushed because we ran out of supplies, and our scientific instruments were damaged, leaving us unhappy with the results. So, we're going to try again to navigate the canyons in boats, planning to spend two or three years on this journey.

It will not be possible to carry in the boats sufficient supplies for the party for that length of time; so it is thought best to establish depots of supplies, at intervals of 100 or 200 miles along the river.

It won't be possible to carry enough supplies for the group in the boats for that long, so it's considered best to set up supply depots every 100 or 200 miles along the river.

Between Gunnison's Crossing and the foot of the Grand Canyon, we know of only two points where the river can be reached--one at the Crossing of the Fathers, and another a few miles below, at the mouth of the Paria, on a route which has been explored by Jacob Hamblin, a Mormon missionary. These two points are so near each other that only one of them can be selected for the purpose above mentioned, and others must be found. We have been unable up to this time to obtain, either from Indians or white men, any information which will give us a clue to any other trail to the river.

Between Gunnison's Crossing and the base of the Grand Canyon, we only know of two places where the river can be accessed—one at the Crossing of the Fathers, and another a few miles downstream, at the mouth of the Paria, on a route that has been explored by Jacob Hamblin, a Mormon missionary. These two points are so close together that only one of them can be chosen for the purpose mentioned, and we need to find others. Up to this point, we've been unable to get any information from either Indians or white men that would lead us to another trail to the river.

At the headwaters of the Sevier, we are on the summit of a great watershed. The Sevier itself flows north and then westward into the lake of the same name. The Rio Virgen, heading near by, flows to the southwest into the Colorado, 60 or 70 miles below the Grand Canyon. The Kanab, also heading near by, runs directly south into the very heart of the Grand Canyon. The Paria, likewise heading near by, runs a little south of east and enters the river at the head of Marble Canyon. To the northeast from this point, other streams which run into the Colorado have their sources, until, 40 or 50 miles away, we reach the

At the beginning of the Sevier River, we stand on top of an important watershed. The Sevier flows north and then westward into the lake that shares its name. The Rio Virgen, starting nearby, flows southwest into the Colorado River, about 60 or 70 miles below the Grand Canyon. The Kanab River, also starting close by, runs directly south into the heart of the Grand Canyon. The Paria, likewise beginning nearby, flows a bit south of east and enters the river at the head of Marble Canyon. To the northeast from this point, other streams that flow into the Colorado have their sources, and about 40 or 50 miles away, we reach the

290

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

southern branches of the Dirty Devil River, the mouth of which stream is but a short distance below the junction of the Grand and Green.

southern branches of the Dirty Devil River, which is located just a short distance downstream from where the Grand and Green rivers meet.

The Paunsa'gunt Plateau terminates in a point, which is bounded by a line of beautiful pink cliffs. At the foot of this plateau, on the west, the Rio Virgen and Sevier River are dovetailed together, as their minute upper branches interlock. The upper surface of the plateau inclines to

The Paunsa'gunt Plateau ends in a point, bordered by a stunning line of pink cliffs. At the base of this plateau, on the west side, the Rio Virgen and Sevier River come together, as their small upper branches interconnect. The top of the plateau slopes to

the northeast, so that its waters roll off into the Sevier; but from the foot of the cliffs, quite around the sharp angle of the plateau, for a dozen miles, we find numerous springs, whose waters unite to form the Kanab. A little farther to the northeast the springs gather into streams that feed the Paria. Here, by the upper springs of the Kanab, we make a camp, and from this point we are to radiate on a series of trips, southwest, south, and east.

the northeast, so that its waters flow into the Sevier; but from the base of the cliffs, all around the sharp curve of the plateau, for about twelve miles, we find many springs, whose waters join to form the Kanab. A bit further to the northeast, the springs combine into streams that supply the Paria. Here, by the upper springs of the Kanab, we set up camp, and from this location, we will head out on a series of trips, southwest, south, and east.

Jacob Hamblin, who has been a missionary among the Indians for more than twenty years, has collected a number of Kai'vavits, with Chuar'-ruumpeak, their chief, and they are all camped with us. They assure us that we cannot reach the river, that we cannot make our way into the depths of the canyon, but promise to show us the springs and water pockets, which are very scarce in all

Jacob Hamblin, who has been a missionary among the Native Americans for over twenty years, has gathered several Kai'vavits with Chuar'-ruumpeak, their chief, and they’re all camping with us. They tell us that we can’t get to the river or make our way into the depths of the canyon, but they promise to show us the springs and water pockets, which are very rare in the area.

MARY'S VEIL; THE UPPER FALL ON PINE CREEK, A SMALL TRIBUTARY OF THE SEVIER.

THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS.

291

this region, and to give us all the information in their power. Here we fit up a pack train, for our bedding and instruments and supplies are to be carried on the backs of mules and ponies.

this region, and to provide us with all the information they can. Here we set up a pack train, since our bedding, instruments, and supplies will be carried on the backs of mules and ponies.

September 5, 1870.--The several members of the party are engaged in general preparation for our trip down to the Grand Canyon.

September 5, 1870.--The members of the group are busy getting ready for our trip to the Grand Canyon.

Taking with me a white man and an Indian, I start on a climb to the summit of the Paunsa'gunt Plateau, which rises above us on the east. Our way for a mile or more is over a great peat bog, which trembles under our feet, and now and then a mule sinks through the broken turf and we are compelled to pull it out with ropes. Passing the bog, our way is up a gulch at the foot of the Pink Cliffs, which form the escarpment, or wall, of the great plateau. Soon we leave the gulch and climb a long ridge which winds around to the right toward the summit of the great table.

Taking a white man and an Indian with me, I begin the climb to the top of the Paunsa'gunt Plateau, which looms above us to the east. For about a mile, we traverse a massive peat bog that shakes beneath our feet, and occasionally a mule gets stuck in the broken ground, forcing us to pull it out with ropes. After we get past the bog, we follow a narrow gorge at the base of the Pink Cliffs, which create the steep edge of the vast plateau. Soon, we leave the gorge and ascend a long ridge that curves to the right, leading us toward the summit of the great table.

Two hours' riding, climbing, and clambering bring us near the top. We look below and see clouds drifting up from the south and rolling tumultuously toward the foot of the cliffs beneath us. Soon all the country below is covered with a sea of vapor--a billowy, raging, noiseless sea--and as the vapory flood still rolls up from the south, great waves dash against the

Two hours of riding, climbing, and scrambling bring us close to the top. We look down and see clouds drifting up from the south, rolling wildly toward the base of the cliffs below us. Soon, the entire landscape is enveloped in a sea of mist—a billowing, raging, silent sea—and as the fog continues to surge up from the south, massive waves crash against the

PILLING CASCADE, THE LOWER FALLS ON PINE CEEEK.

PILLING CASCADE, THE LOWER FALLS ON PINE CREEK.

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CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

ABORIGINAL LADDER.

Aboriginal Ladder.

foot of the cliffs and roll back; another tide comes in, is hurled back, and another and another, lashing the cliffs until the fog rises to the summit and covers us all. There is a heavy pine and fir forest above, beset with dead and fallen timber, and we make our way through the undergrowth to the east.

foot of the cliffs and roll back; another tide comes in, is hurled back, and another and another, crashing against the cliffs until the fog rises to the top and envelops us all. There is a dense pine and fir forest above, filled with dead and fallen trees, and we make our way through the underbrush to the east.

It rains. The clouds discharge their moisture in torrents, and we make for ourselves shelters of boughs, only to be soon abandoned, and we stand shivering by a great fire of pine logs and boughs, which the pelting storm half extinguishes.

It rains. The clouds pour down their moisture in torrents, and we create shelters out of branches, only to leave them soon after. We stand shivering by a large fire made of pine logs and branches, which the heavy rain nearly puts out.

One, two, three, four hours of the storm, and at last it partially abates. During this time our animals, which we have turned loose, have sought for themselves shelter under the trees, and two of them have wandered away beyond our sight. I go out to follow their tracks, and come near to the brink of a ledge of rocks, which, in the fog and mist, I suppose to be a little ridge, and I look for a way by which I can go down. Standing just here, there is a rift made in the fog below by some current or blast of wind, which reveals an almost bottomless abyss. I look from the brink of a great precipice of more than 2,000 feet; but through the mist the forms are half obscured and all reckoning of distance is lost, and it seems 10,000 feet, ten miles--any distance the imagination desires to make it.

One, two, three, four hours of the storm, and finally it starts to ease up a bit. During this time, our animals, which we let roam freely, have found shelter under the trees, and two of them have strayed out of our sight. I step outside to follow their tracks and approach the edge of a rocky ledge, which, in the fog and mist, I think is just a small ridge. I'm looking for a way to climb down. While standing here, a gap in the fog appears below, caused by a strong wind, revealing what looks like an almost bottomless chasm. I gaze from the edge of a huge cliff that drops more than 2,000 feet, but the mist obscures everything, distorting my sense of distance; it feels like 10,000 feet, ten miles—whatever distance my imagination conjures up.

Catching our animals, we return to the camp. We find that the little streams which come down from the plateau are greatly swollen, but at camp they have had no rain. The clouds which drifted up from the south, striking against the plateau, were lifted up into colder regions and discharged their moisture on the summit and against the sides of the plateau, but there was no rain in the valley below.

Catching our animals, we head back to camp. We notice that the small streams flowing down from the plateau are significantly swollen, but there's been no rain at camp. The clouds drifting up from the south hit the plateau, got pushed up into colder areas, and released their moisture at the summit and along the plateau's sides, but there was no rain in the valley below.

September 9.--We make a fair start this morning from the beautiful meadow at the head of the Kanab, cross the line of little hills at the headwaters of the Rio Virgen, and pass, to the south, a pretty valley. At ten o'clock we come to the brink of a great geographic bench--a line of

September 9.--We have a good start this morning from the beautiful meadow at the head of the Kanab, cross over the little hills at the headwaters of the Rio Virgen, and pass by a lovely valley to the south. By ten o'clock, we reach the edge of a large geographic bench—a line of

THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS.

293

cliffs. Behind us are cool springs, green meadows, and forest-clad slopes; below us, stretching to the south until the world is lost in blue haze, is a painted desert--not a desert plain, but a desert of rocks cut by deep gorges and relieved by towering cliffs and pinnacled rocks--naked rocks, brilliant in the sunlight.

cliffs. Behind us are cool springs, green meadows, and forest-covered slopes; below us, stretching to the south until the world disappears into a blue haze, is a painted desert--not a flat desert, but a desert of rocks carved by deep gorges and highlighted by towering cliffs and jagged rocks--bare rocks, glowing in the sunlight.

By a difficult trail we make our way down the basaltic ledge, through which innumerable streams here gather into a little river running in a deep canyon. The river runs close to the foot of the cliffs on the right-hand side and the trail passes along to the right. At noon we rest and our animals feed on luxuriant grass.

By a tough path, we make our way down the basalt ledge, where countless streams come together into a small river winding through a deep canyon. The river flows close to the base of the cliffs on the right side, and the trail continues along to the right. At noon, we take a break, and our animals graze on the lush grass.

Again we start and make slow progress along a stony way. At night we camp under an overarching cliff.

Again we set off and make slow progress along a rocky path. At night, we camp under a looming cliff.

September 10.--Here the river turns to the west, and our way, properly, is to the south; but we wish to explore the Rio Virgen as far as possible. The Indians tell us that the canyon narrows gradually a few miles below and that it will be impossible to take our animals much farther down the river. Early in the morning I go down to examine the head of this narrow part. After breakfast, having concluded to explore the canyon for a few miles on foot, we arrange that the main party shall climb the cliff and go around to a point 18 or 20 \ miles below, where, the Indians say, the animals can be taken down by the river, and three of us set out on, foot.

September 10.--Here the river bends west, while we need to head south; however, we want to explore the Rio Virgen as far as we can. The locals tell us that the canyon gets narrower a few miles downstream and that our animals won't be able to go much further downriver. Early in the morning, I head down to check out the beginning of this narrow section. After breakfast, we've decided to explore the canyon on foot for a few miles, so we organize for the main group to climb the cliff and go around to a point 18 or 20 \ miles downstream, where the locals say we can take the animals down by the river, and three of us set off on foot.

The Indian name of the canyon is Paru'nuweap, or Roaring Water Canyon. Between the little river and the foot of the walls is a dense growth of willows, vines, and wild rosebushes, and with great difficulty we make our way through this tangled mass. It is not a wide stream--only 20 or 30 feet across in most places; shallow, but very swift. After spending some hours in breaking our way through the mass of vegetation and climbing rocks here and there, it is determined to wade along the stream. In some places this is an easy task, but here and there we come to deep holes where we have to wade to our armpits. Soon we come to places so narrow

The Indian name for the canyon is Paru'nuweap, or Roaring Water Canyon. Between the small river and the base of the cliffs is a thick growth of willows, vines, and wild rosebushes, and we struggle to make our way through this tangled mess. The stream isn't wide—only 20 to 30 feet across in most spots; it's shallow but very fast-moving. After spending hours pushing our way through the dense vegetation and climbing over rocks here and there, we decide to wade along the stream. In some areas, it's fairly easy, but we occasionally encounter deep holes where the water reaches our armpits. Soon, we come across places that are so narrow

ANOTHER STYLE OF LADDER.

ANOTHER TYPE OF LADDER.

294 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

that the river fills the entire channel and we wade perforce. In many places the bottom is a quicksand, into which we sink, and it is with great difficulty that we make progress. In some places the holes are so deep that we have to swim, and our little bundles of blankets and rations are fixed to a raft made of driftwood and pushed before us. Now and then there is a little flood-plain, on which we can walk, and we cross and recross the stream and wade along the channel where the water is so swift as almost to carry us off our feet and we are in danger every moment of being swept down, until night comes on. Finding a little patch of flood-plain, on which there is a huge pile of driftwood and a clump of box-elders, and near by a mammoth stream bursting from the rocks, we soon have a huge fire. Our clothes are spread to dry; we make a cup of coffee, take out our bread and cheese and dried beef, and enjoy a hearty supper. We estimate that we have traveled eight miles to-day.

that the river fills the entire channel and we have to wade through it. In many places, the bottom is quicksand, pulling us down, and it's tough to make any progress. In some areas, the holes are so deep that we need to swim, and our small bundles of blankets and food are secured to a raft made of driftwood, which we push ahead of us. Occasionally, there's a little floodplain where we can walk, and we cross and recross the stream, wading along the channel where the water is so fast that it almost sweeps us off our feet, putting us at risk of being carried away until night falls. When we find a small patch of floodplain with a big pile of driftwood and a group of box-elders, and nearby a large stream flowing from the rocks, we quickly get a big fire going. We lay our clothes out to dry, make a cup of coffee, take out our bread, cheese, and dried beef, and enjoy a hearty dinner. We estimate that we have traveled eight miles today.

The canyon here is about 1,200 feet deep. It has been very narrow and winding all the way down to this point.

The canyon here is about 1,200 feet deep. It's been very narrow and winding all the way down to this point.

September 11.--Wading again this morning; sinking in the quicksand, swimming the deep waters, and making slow and painful progress where the waters are swift and the bed of the stream rocky.

September 11.--Wading again this morning; sinking in the quicksand, swimming through the deep waters, and making slow and painful progress where the current is strong and the riverbed is rocky.

The canyon is steadily becoming deeper and in many places very narrow--only 20 or 30 feet wide below, and in some places no wider, and even narrower, for hundreds of feet overhead. There are places where the river in sweeping by curves has cut far under the rocks, but still preserves its narrow channel, so that there is an overhanging wall on one side and an inclined wall on the other. In places a few hundred feet above, it becomes vertical again, and thus the view to the sky is entirely closed. Everywhere this deep passage is dark and gloomy and resounds with the noise of rapid waters. At noon we are in a canyon 2,500 feet deep, and we come to a fall where the walls are broken down and huge rocks beset the channel, on which we obtain a foothold to reach a level 200 feet below. Here the canyon is again wider, and we find a flood-plain along which we can walk, now on this, and now on that side of the stream. Gradually the canyon widens; steep rapids, cascades, and cataracts are found along the river, but we wade only when it is necessary to cross. We make progress with very great labor, having to climb over piles of broken rocks.

The canyon is getting deeper and in many spots really narrow—only 20 or 30 feet wide at the bottom, and in some places even less than that, with the walls towering hundreds of feet above. The river, in its sweeping curves, has eroded underneath the rocks but still keeps its narrow channel, creating an overhanging wall on one side and a sloped wall on the other. A few hundred feet above, the walls become vertical again, completely blocking the view of the sky. Everywhere, this deep passage is dark and gloomy, echoing with the sound of rushing water. At noon, we're in a canyon that's 2,500 feet deep, and we reach a section where the walls have crumbled, with huge boulders obstructing the channel, which we use as a foothold to get down to a level 200 feet lower. Here, the canyon opens up again, and we find a floodplain that lets us walk along, switching from one side of the stream to the other. Gradually, the canyon expands; there are steep rapids, cascades, and waterfalls along the river, but we only wade when we need to cross. We make slow progress, having to scramble over heaps of broken rocks.

THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 295

Late in the afternoon we come to a little clearing in the valley and see other signs of civilization and by sundown arrive at the Mormon town

Late in the afternoon, we reach a small clearing in the valley and notice other signs of civilization, and by sunset, we arrive at the Mormon town.

ENTRANCE TO PARU'NUWEAP.

of Schunesburg; and here we meet the train, and feast on melons and grapes.

of Schunesburg; and here we meet the train and enjoy melons and grapes.

September 12.--Our course for the last two days, through Paru'nuweap Canyon, was directly to the west. Another stream comes down from the north and unites just here at Schunesburg with the main branch of the Rio Virgen. We determine to spend a day in the exploration of this stream. The Indians call the canyon through which it runs, Mukun'tu-weap, or Straight, Canyon. Entering this, we have to wade upstream; often the water fills the entire channel and, although we travel many

September 12.--For the last two days, we've been heading directly west through Paru'nuweap Canyon. Another stream comes down from the north and meets the main branch of the Rio Virgen right here at Schunesburg. We decided to spend a day exploring this stream. The locals refer to the canyon it flows through as Mukun'tu-weap, or Straight Canyon. As we go in, we have to wade upstream; often, the water fills the entire channel, and even though we travel many

296

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

miles, we find no flood-plain, talus, or broken piles of rock at the foot of the cliff. The walls have smooth, plain faces and are everywhere very regular and vertical for a thousand feet or more, where they seem to break back in shelving slopes to higher altitudes; and everywhere, as we go along, we find springs bursting out at the foot of the walls, and passing these the river above becomes steadily smaller. The great body of water which runs below bursts out from beneath this great bed of red sandstone; as we go up the canyon, it comes to be but a creek, and then a brook. On the western wall of the canyon stand some buttes,

miles, we don’t see any floodplain, loose rocks, or piles of broken stone at the base of the cliff. The walls have smooth, flat surfaces and are almost perfectly vertical for a thousand feet or more, where they seem to slope back at higher elevations. Along the way, we find springs gushing out at the bottom of the walls, and after passing these, the river above gradually shrinks in size. The large volume of water flowing below rises from beneath this massive layer of red sandstone; as we move further into the canyon, it turns into just a creek, and then a small stream. On the western side of the canyon, there are some buttes,

TOWERS ON THE RIO VIRGEN.

Towers on the Rio Virgen.

towers, and high pinnacled rocks. Going up the canyon, we gain glimpses of them, here and there. Last summer, after our trip through

towers, and tall spiky rocks. As we move up the canyon, we catch sight of them occasionally. Last summer, after our trip through

THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 297

the canyons of the Colorado, on our way from the mouth of the Virgen to Salt Lake City, these were seen as conspicuous landmarks from a distance away to the southwest of 60 or 70 miles. These tower rocks are known as the Temples of the Virgen.

the canyons of the Colorado, on our way from the mouth of the Virgen to Salt Lake City, were visible as prominent landmarks from about 60 to 70 miles away to the southwest. These towering rocks are called the Temples of the Virgen.

Having explored this canyon nearly to its head, we return to Schunesburg, arriving quite late at night.

Having explored this canyon almost to its source, we return to Schunesburg, arriving quite late at night.

Sitting in camp this evening, Chuar'ruumpeak, the chief of the Kai'vavits, who is one of our party, tells us there is a tradition among the tribes of this country that many years ago a great light was seen somewhere in this region by the Paru'shapats, who lived to the southwest, and that they supposed it to be a signal kindled to warn them of the approach of the Navajos, who lived beyond the Colorado River to the east. Then other signal fires were kindled on the Pine Valley Mountains, Santa Clara Mountains, and Uinkaret Mountains, so that all the tribes of northern Arizona, southern Utah, southern Nevada, and southern California were warned of the approaching danger; but when the Paru'shapats came nearer, they discovered that it was a fire on one of the great temples; and then they knew that the fire was not kindled by men, for no human being could scale the rocks. The Tu'muurrugwait'sigaip, or Rock Rovers, had kindled a fire to deceive the people. So, in the Indian language this is called Tu'muurruwait'sigaip Tuweap', or Rock Rovers' Land.

Sitting at camp this evening, Chuar'ruumpeak, the chief of the Kai'vavits, who is part of our group, tells us there's a tradition among the tribes of this area that many years ago, a great light was seen somewhere in this region by the Paru'shapats, who lived to the southwest. They thought it was a signal lit to warn them about the approaching Navajos, who lived beyond the Colorado River to the east. Then other signal fires were lit on the Pine Valley Mountains, Santa Clara Mountains, and Uinkaret Mountains, so all the tribes of northern Arizona, southern Utah, southern Nevada, and southern California were warned about the looming danger. But when the Paru'shapats got closer, they found out that it was a fire on one of the great temples. Then they realized that the fire wasn’t set by people, as no human could climb the rocks. The Tu'muurrugwait'sigaip, or Rock Rovers, had started a fire to trick the people. So, in the Indian language, this is called Tu'muurruwait'sigaip Tuweap', or Rock Rovers' Land.

September 13.--We start very early this morning, for we have a long day's travel before us. Our way is across the Rio Virgen to the south. Coming to the bank of the stream here, we find a strange metamorphosis. The streams we have seen above, running in narrow channels, leaping and plunging over the rocks, raging and roaring in their course, are here united and spread in a thin sheet several hundred yards wide and only a few inches deep, but running over a bed of quicksand. Crossing the stream, our trail leads up a narrow canyon, not very deep, and then among the hills of golden, red, and purple shales and marls. Climbing out of the valley of the Rio Virgen, we pass through a forest of dwarf cedars and come out at the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs. All day we follow this Indian trail toward the east, and at night camp at a great spring, known to the Indians as Yellow Rock Spring, but to the Mormons as Pipe Spring; and near by there is a cabin in which some Mormon

September 13.--We set out very early this morning because we have a long day of traveling ahead of us. Our journey takes us across the Rio Virgen to the south. When we reach the riverbank here, we see a surprising transformation. The streams we saw earlier, running in narrow channels, jumping and rushing over the rocks, crashing and roaring along their path, are now combined and spread out into a thin sheet several hundred yards wide and only a few inches deep, but flowing over a quicksand bed. After crossing the stream, our path takes us up a narrow canyon, which isn’t very deep, and then through hills of golden, red, and purple shales and marls. Climbing out of the valley of the Rio Virgen, we pass through a forest of dwarf cedars and emerge at the base of the Vermilion Cliffs. All day, we follow this Indian trail eastward, and at night, we camp by a large spring known to the Indians as Yellow Rock Spring, but to the Mormons as Pipe Spring; nearby, there's a cabin where some Mormons live.

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CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

herders find shelter. Pipe Spring is a point just across the Utah line in Arizona, and we suppose it to be about 60 miles from the river. Here

herders find shelter. Pipe Spring is a spot just across the Utah border in Arizona, and we think it’s about 60 miles from the river. Here

MUKUN'TUWEAP CANYON.

Mukun'tuweap Canyon.

the Mormons design to build a fort another year, as an outpost for protection against the Indians. We now discharge a number of the Indians, but take two with us for

the Mormons plan to build a fort next year as a safeguard against the Indians. We are sending several of the Indians away, but we're taking two with us for

THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 299

the purpose of showing us the springs, for they are very scarce, very small, and not easily found. Half a dozen are not known in a district of country large enough to make as many good-sized counties in Illinois. There are no running streams, and these springs and water pockets are our sole dependence.

the purpose of showing us the springs, because they are very rare, very small, and not easy to find. There are only a handful known in an area large enough to fit several good-sized counties in Illinois. There are no flowing streams, and these springs and water pockets are our only source of water.

Starting, we leave behind a long line of cliffs, many hundred feet high, composed of orange and vermilion sandstones. I have named them "Vermilion Cliffs." When we are out a few miles, I look back and see the morning sun shining in splendor on their painted faces; the salient angles are on fire, and the retreating angles are buried in shade, and I gaze on them until my vision dreams and the cliffs appear a long bank of purple clouds piled from the horizon high into the heavens. At noon we pass along a ledge of chocolate cliffs, and, taking out our sandwiches, we make a dinner as we ride along.

Starting out, we leave behind a long line of cliffs, hundreds of feet high, made of orange and red sandstones. I've named them "Vermilion Cliffs." After we’ve traveled a few miles, I look back and see the morning sun shining brilliantly on their colorful surfaces; the prominent angles are glowing, and the recessed angles are covered in shadow. I watch them until my vision blurs and the cliffs seem like a long stretch of purple clouds rising from the horizon into the sky. At noon, we ride along a ledge of chocolate cliffs, and while we eat our sandwiches, we have lunch on the move.

Yesterday our Indians discussed for hours the route which we should take. There is one way, farther by 10 or 12 miles, with sure water; another, shorter, where water is found sometimes; their conclusion was that water would be found now; and this is the way we go, yet all day long we are anxious about it. To be out two days with only the water that can be carried in two small kegs is to have our animals suffer greatly. At five o'clock we come to the spot, and there is a huge water pocket containing several barrels. What a relief! Here we camp for the night.

Yesterday, our Native American team talked for hours about which route we should take. There’s one way that’s 10 or 12 miles longer but definitely has water; the other is shorter but only has water sometimes. They decided that we would probably find water along the shorter route, so that’s the way we’re going, but we spent the whole day worried about it. Being out for two days with just the water we can carry in two small barrels would make our animals suffer a lot. At five o'clock, we reach a spot with a huge water pocket filled with several barrels. What a relief! We’ll camp here for the night.

September 15.--Up at daybreak, for it is a long day's march to the next water. They say we must "run very hard" to reach it by dark.

September 15.--Up at dawn, because it's a long hike to the next water source. They say we have to "hurry" to get there before nightfall.

Our course is to the south. From Pipe Spring we can see a mountain, and I recognize it as the one seen last summer from a cliff overlooking the Grand Canyon; and I wish to reach the river just behind the mountain. There are Indians living in the group, of which it is the highest, whom I wish to visit on the way. These mountains are of volcanic origin, and we soon come to ground that is covered with fragments of lava. The way becomes very difficult. We have to cross deep ravines, the heads of canyons that run into the Grand Canyon. It is curious now to observe the knowledge of our Indians. There is not a trail but what they know; every gulch and every rock seems familiar. I have prided myself on being able to grasp and retain in my mind the topog-

Our route is south. From Pipe Spring, we can see a mountain that I recognize as the one we spotted last summer from a cliff overlooking the Grand Canyon, and I want to reach the river just behind that mountain. There are Native Americans living in that high area whom I want to visit along the way. These mountains are volcanic, and we soon encounter ground covered with fragments of lava. The path becomes very challenging. We have to cross deep ravines, which are the heads of canyons that lead into the Grand Canyon. It's interesting now to see how knowledgeable our Native American guides are. There isn't a trail they don't know; every gulch and every rock seems familiar to them. I've taken pride in my ability to understand and remember the terrain.

300 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

raphy of a country; but these Indians put me to shame. My knowledge is only general, embracing the more important features of a region that remains as a map engraved on my mind; but theirs is particular. They know every rock and every ledge, every gulch and canyon, and just where to wind among these to find a pass; and their knowledge is unerring. They cannot describe a country to you, but they can tell you all the particulars of a route.

raphy of a country; but these Indians put me to shame. My knowledge is only general, covering the major features of a region that's like a map etched in my mind; but theirs is specific. They know every rock and ledge, every gulch and canyon, and exactly where to navigate among them to find a path; and their knowledge is spot on. They may not be able to describe a country to you, but they can give you all the details of a route.

I have but one pony for the two, and they were to ride "turn about"; but Chuar'ruumpeak, the chief, rides, and Shuts, the one-eyed, barelegged, merry-faced pigmy, walks, and points the way with a slender cane; then leaps and bounds by the shortest way, and sits down on a rock and waits demurely until we come, always meeting us with a jest, his face a rich mine of sunny smiles.

I only have one pony for the two of us, so we were supposed to take turns riding. However, Chuar'ruumpeak, the chief, rides while Shuts, the one-eyed, barelegged, cheerful little guy, walks and points the way with a slender cane. He then hops and bounds along the shortest route, sits down on a rock, and patiently waits for us to catch up, always greeting us with a joke and wearing a face that’s a treasure trove of sunny smiles.

At dusk we reach the water pocket. It is in a deep gorge on the flank of this great mountain. During the rainy season the water rolls down the mountain side, plunging over precipices, and excavates a deep basin in the solid rock below. This basin, hidden from the sun, holds water the year round.

At dusk, we arrive at the water pocket. It's located in a deep gorge on the side of this massive mountain. During the rainy season, water cascades down the mountainside, tumbling over cliffs and carving out a deep basin in the solid rock below. This basin, shielded from the sun, holds water throughout the year.

September 16.--This morning, while the men are packing the animals, I climb a little mountain near camp, to obtain a view of the country. It is a huge pile of volcanic scoria, loose and light as cinders from a forge, which give way under my feet, and I climb with great labor; but, reaching the summit and looking to the southeast, I see once more the labyrinth of deep gorges that flank the Grand Canyon; in the multitude, I cannot determine whether it is itself in view or not. The memories of grand and awful months spent in their deep, gloomy solitudes come up, and I live that life over again for a time.

September 16.--This morning, while the guys are packing up the animals, I hike up a small mountain near camp to get a view of the area. It's a massive pile of volcanic ash, loose and light like cinders from a forge, which gives way under my feet, making it hard to climb; but when I finally reach the top and look southeast, I see again the maze of deep gorges that border the Grand Canyon. With so many canyons, I can’t tell if the Grand Canyon itself is in view. Memories of the incredible and terrifying months spent in their dark, lonely depths flood back, and I relive that life for a while.

I supposed, before starting, that I could get a good view of the great mountain from this point; but it is like climbing a chair to look at a castle. I wish to discover some way by which it can be ascended, as it is my intention to go to the summit before I return to the settlements. There is a cliff near the summit and I do not see any way yet. Now down I go, sliding on the cinders, making them rattle and clang.

I thought, before starting, that I would have a good view of the great mountain from this spot; but it’s like trying to climb onto a chair to see a castle. I want to find a way to get to the top, since I plan to reach the summit before I head back to the settlements. There’s a cliff close to the top and I still don’t see any way up. Now I’m heading back down, sliding on the cinders, making them rattle and clang.

The Indians say we are to have a short ride to-day and that we shall reach an Indian village, situated by a good spring. Our way is across the spurs that put out from the great mountain as we pass it to the left.

The Indians say we’re going to have a short ride today and that we’ll reach an Indian village located by a nice spring. We’ll be traveling across the ridges that come out from the big mountain as we pass it on the left.

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301

Up and down we go across deep ravines, and the fragments of lava clank under our horses' feet; now among cedars, now among pines, and now across mountain-side glades. At one o'clock we descend into a lovely valley, with a carpet of waving grass; sometimes there is a little water in the upper end of it, and during some seasons the Indians we wish to find are encamped here. Chuar'ruumpeak rides on to find them, and to say we are friends, otherwise they would run away or propose to fight us, should we come without notice. Soon we see Chuar'ruumpeak riding at full speed and hear him shouting at the top of his voice, and away in the distance are two Indians scampering up the mountain side. One stops; the other still goes on and is soon lost to view. We ride up and find Chuar'ruumpeak talking with the one who had stopped. It is one of the ladies resident in these mountain glades; she is evidently

Up and down we go across deep ravines, and the pieces of lava clank under our horses' feet; now among cedars, now among pines, and now across mountain-side clearings. At one o'clock we descend into a beautiful valley, with a blanket of waving grass; sometimes there is a little water at the upper end, and during certain seasons, the Indians we’re looking for set up camp here. Chuar'ruumpeak rides on to find them and to let them know we are friends; otherwise, they would run away or try to fight us if we showed up unannounced. Soon, we see Chuar'ruumpeak riding at full speed and hear him shouting at the top of his lungs, and far in the distance are two Indians hurrying up the mountain side. One stops; the other keeps going and soon disappears from sight. We ride up and find Chuar'ruumpeak talking with the one who had stopped. It is one of the women living in these mountain clearings; she is clearly

THE WITCHES' WATER POCKET.

THE WITCHES' WATER POUCH.

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CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

paying taxes, Godiva-like. She tells us that her people are at the spring; that it is only two hours' ride; that her good master has gone on to tell them we are coming; and that she is harvesting seeds.

paying taxes, just like Godiva. She tells us that her people are at the spring; that it's only a two-hour ride; that her good master has gone on to tell them we are coming; and that she is gathering seeds.

We sit down and eat our luncheon and share our biscuits with the woman of the mountains; then on we go over a divide between two rounded peaks. I send the party on to the village and climb the peak on the left, riding my horse to the upper limit of trees and then tugging up afoot. From this point I can see the Grand Canyon, and I know where I am. I can see the Indian village, too, in a grassy valley, em -bosomed in the mountains, the smoke curling up from their fires; my men are turning out their horses and a group of natives stand around. Down the mountain I go and reach camp at sunset. After supper we put some cedar boughs on the fire; the dusky villagers sit around, and we have a smoke and a talk. I explain the object of my visit, and assure them of my friendly intentions. Then I ask them about a way down into the canyon. They tell me that years ago a way was discovered by which parties could go down, but that no one has attempted it for a long time; that it is a very difficult and very dangerous undertaking to reach the "Big Water." Then I inquire about the Shi'vwits, a tribe that lives about

We sit down and have our lunch, sharing our biscuits with the woman from the mountains; then we continue across a pass between two rounded peaks. I send the group ahead to the village and climb the peak on the left, taking my horse up to the tree line and then hiking the rest of the way. From this spot, I can see the Grand Canyon, and I know exactly where I am. I can also see the Indian village in a grassy valley, nestled in the mountains, with smoke rising from their fires; my men are letting their horses loose, and a group of locals is gathered around. I head down the mountain and reach camp just as the sun sets. After dinner, we throw some cedar branches on the fire; the local villagers gather around, and we smoke and chat. I explain why I’m here and assure them of my good intentions. Then I ask about a way down into the canyon. They tell me that years ago, a route was found that people could take down, but no one has tried it in a long time; they say it’s a very tough and dangerous climb to get to the "Big Water." Then I ask about the Shi'vwits, a tribe that lives nearby.

WUNAVAI GATHERING SEEDS.

WUNAVAI COLLECTING SEEDS.

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THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UNKARET MOUNTAINS. 303

the springs on the mountain sides and canyon cliffs to the southwest. They say that their village is now about 30 miles away, and promise to send a messenger for them to-morrow morning.

the springs on the mountain sides and canyon cliffs to the southwest. They say that their village is now about 30 miles away and promise to send a messenger for them tomorrow morning.

Having finished our business for the evening, I ask if there is a tugwi'nagunt in camp; that is, if there is any one present who is skilled in relating their mythology. Chuar'ruumpeak says Tomor'rountikai, the chief of these Indians, is a very noted man for his skill in this matter; but they both object, by saying that the season for tugwi'nai has not yet arrived. But I had anticipated this, and soon some members of the party come with pipes and tobacco, a large kettle of coffee, and a tray of biscuits, and, after sundry ceremonies of pipe lighting and smoking, we all feast, and, warmed up by this, to them, unusually good living, it is decided that the night shall be spent in relating mythology. I ask Tomor'rountikai to tell us about the So'kus Wai'unats, or One-Two Boys, and to this he agrees.

Having wrapped up our business for the evening, I ask if there’s a tugwi'nagunt in camp; that is, if anyone is present who is skilled at sharing their mythology. Chuar'ruumpeak mentions that Tomor'rountikai, the chief of these people, is quite renowned for his ability in this area; however, they both note that the season for tugwi'nai hasn’t come yet. But I expected this, and soon some members of the group arrive with pipes and tobacco, a big kettle of coffee, and a tray of biscuits. After going through various rituals of lighting and smoking the pipes, we all enjoy a feast, and feeling quite pleased with this, for them, unusually good meal, we decide to spend the night sharing myths. I ask Tomor'rountikai to tell us about the So'kus Wai'unats, or One-Two Boys, and he agrees.

The long winter evenings of an Indian camp are usually devoted to the relation of mythologic stories, which purport to give a history of an ancient race of animal gods. The stories are usually told by some old man, assisted by others of the party, who take secondary parts, while the members of the tribe gather about and make comments or receive impressions from the morals which are enforced by the story-teller, or, more properly, story-tellers; for the exercise partakes somewhat of the nature of a theatrical performance.

The long winter evenings in an Indian camp are typically spent sharing mythological stories, which aim to recount the history of an ancient race of animal gods. These stories are usually told by an elder, with help from others in the group who take on supporting roles, while the tribe members gather around, making comments or absorbing the lessons highlighted by the storytellers—more accurately, the story-tellers; because this activity has a theatrical quality to it.

THE SO'KUS WAI'UNATS.

THE SO'KUS WAY OF LIFE.

Tumpwinai'rogwinump, He Who Had A Stone Shirt, killed Sikor', the Crane, and stole his wife, and seeing that she had a child and thinking it would be an incumbrance to them on their travels, he ordered her to kill it. But the mother, loving the babe, hid it under her dress and carried it away to its grandmother. And Stone Shirt carried his captured bride to his own land.

Tumpwinai'rogwinump, He Who Had A Stone Shirt, killed Sikor', the Crane, and took his wife. Seeing that she had a child and thinking it would be a burden on their journey, he told her to kill it. But the mother, loving her baby, hid it under her dress and took it to its grandmother. And Stone Shirt brought his captured bride to his own land.

In a few years the child grew to be a fine lad, under the care of his grandmother, and was her companion wherever she went.

In a few years, the child grew into a fine young man under his grandmother's care and was her companion wherever she went.

One day they were digging flag roots on the margin of the river and putting them in a heap on the bank. When they had been at work a little while, the boy perceived that the roots came up with greater ease than was customary and he asked the old woman the cause of this,

One day, they were digging up flag roots by the riverbank and piling them up on the shore. After working for a while, the boy noticed that the roots were coming out more easily than usual, so he asked the old woman why that was.

304 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

but she did not know; and, as they continued their work, still the reeds came up with less effort, at which their wonder increased, until the grandmother said,

but she didn't know; and, as they kept working, the reeds still came up with less effort, which only made their curiosity grow, until the grandmother said,

"Surely, some strange thing is about to transpire."

"Something strange is definitely about to happen."

Then the boy went to the heap where they had been placing the roots, and found that some one had taken them away, and he ran back, exclaiming,

Then the boy went to the pile where they had been putting the roots and found that someone had taken them away, so he ran back, shouting,

"Grandmother, did you take the roots away?"

"Grandma, did you take the roots away?"

And she answered,

And she replied,

"No, my child; perhaps some ghost has taken them off; let us dig no more; come away."

"No, my child; maybe a ghost has taken them away; let’s stop digging; come on."

But the boy was not satisfied, as he greatly desired to know what all this meant; so he searched about for a time, and at length found a man sitting under a tree, and taunted him with being a thief, and threw mud and stones at him until he broke the stranger's leg. The man answered not the boy nor resented the injuries he received, but remained silent and sorrowful; and when his leg was broken he tied it up in sticks and bathed it in the river and sat down again under the tree and beckoned the boy to approach. When the lad came near, the stranger told him he had something of great importance to reveal.

But the boy wasn't satisfied because he really wanted to know what all this meant. So, he searched around for a while and eventually found a man sitting under a tree. The boy taunted him, calling him a thief, and threw mud and stones at him until he broke the stranger's leg. The man didn't respond to the boy or hold a grudge against him; instead, he remained silent and sad. After his leg was broken, he wrapped it in sticks, washed it in the river, and sat back down under the tree, signaling for the boy to come over. When the boy got closer, the stranger told him he had something very important to share.

"My son," said he, "did that old woman ever tell you about your father and mother?"

"My son," he said, "did that old woman ever tell you about your dad and mom?"

"No," answered the boy; "I have never heard of them."

"No," replied the boy; "I've never heard of them."

"My son, do you see these bones scattered on the ground? Whose bones are these?"

"My son, do you see these bones spread out on the ground? Whose bones are these?"

"How should I know?" answered the boy. "It may be that some elk or deer has been killed here."

"How should I know?" the boy replied. "Maybe some elk or deer was killed here."

"No," said the old man.

"No," said the old guy.

"Perhaps they are the bones of a bear"; but the old man shook his head.

"Maybe they’re the bones of a bear," but the old man shook his head.

So the boy mentioned many other animals, but the stranger still shook his head, and finally said,

So the boy talked about a lot of other animals, but the stranger just kept shaking his head, and finally said,

"These are the bones of your father; Stone Shirt killed him and left him to rot here on the ground like a wolf."

"These are your father's bones; Stone Shirt killed him and left him to decay here on the ground like a wolf."

And the boy was filled with indignation against the slayer of his father.

And the boy was filled with anger towards the killer of his father.

Then the stranger asked,

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305

"Is your mother in yonder lodge?"

"Is your mom in that lodge over there?"

"No," the boy replied.

"No," the kid said.

"Does your mother live on the banks of this river?"

"Does your mom live by the river?"

"I don't know my mother; I have never seen her; she is dead," answered the boy.

"I don’t know my mom; I’ve never seen her; she’s dead," the boy replied.

"My son," replied the stranger, "Stone Shirt, who killed your father, stole your mother and took her away to the shore of a distant lake, and there she is his wife to-day."

"My son," said the stranger, "Stone Shirt, who killed your father, kidnapped your mother and took her to the shore of a faraway lake, and today she is his wife."

And the boy wept bitterly and, while the tears filled his eyes so that he could not see, the stranger disappeared. Then the boy was filled with wonder at what he had seen and heard, and malice grew in his heart against his father's enemy. He returned to the old woman and said,

And the boy cried hard, and while tears blurred his vision so he couldn't see, the stranger vanished. Then the boy was filled with amazement at what he had seen and heard, and anger grew in his heart towards his father's enemy. He went back to the old woman and said,

"Grandmother, why have you lied to me about my father and mother?"

"Grandma, why did you lie to me about my mom and dad?"

But she answered not, for she knew that a ghost had told all to the boy. And the boy fell upon the ground weeping and sobbing, until he fell into a deep sleep, when strange things were told him.

But she didn't answer because she knew that a ghost had revealed everything to the boy. And the boy collapsed on the ground, crying and sobbing, until he fell into a deep sleep, during which strange things were revealed to him.

His slumber continued three days and three nights and when he awoke he said to his grandmother:

His sleep lasted for three days and three nights, and when he woke up, he said to his grandmother:

"I am going away to enlist all nations in my fight."

"I am leaving to recruit all nations for my cause."

And straightway he departed.

And he left immediately.

(Here the boy's travels are related with many circumstances concerning the way he was received by the people, all given in a series of conversations, very lengthy; so they will be omitted.)

(Here the boy's travels are detailed along with various circumstances regarding how he was welcomed by the people, all conveyed through a series of lengthy conversations; therefore, they will be omitted.)

TERRACE FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY OF SHUMOPAVI.

306

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

Finally he returned in advance of the people whom he had enlisted, bringing with him Shinau'av, the Wolf, and Togo'av, the Rattlesnake. When the three had eaten food, the boy said to the old woman:

Finally, he came back before the people he had gathered, bringing Shinau'av, the Wolf, and Togo'av, the Rattlesnake with him. After the three of them had eaten, the boy said to the old woman:

"Grandmother, cut me in two!"

"Grandma, cut me in half!"

But she demurred, saying she did not wish to kill one whom she loved so dearly.

But she hesitated, saying she didn't want to kill someone she loved so much.

"Cut me in two!" demanded the boy; and he gave her a stone ax, which he had brought from a distant country, and with a manner of great authority he again commanded her to cut him in two. So she

"Cut me in two!" demanded the boy; and he handed her a stone ax, which he had brought from a faraway land, and with a commanding tone, he insisted that she cut him in two. So she

A SWEAT HOUSE.

A sauna.

stood before him and severed him in twain and fled in terror. And lo! each part took the form of an entire man, and the one beautiful boy appeared as two, and they were so much alike no one could tell them apart.

stood before him and cut him in half and ran away in fear. And look! each part transformed into a complete person, and the one beautiful boy appeared as two, and they were so similar that no one could tell them apart.

When the people or natives whom the boy had enlisted came pouring into the camp, Shinau'av and Togo'av were engaged in telling them of the wonderful thing that had happened to the boy, and that now there were two; and they all held it to be an augury of a successful expedition to the land of Stone Shirt. And they started on their journey.

When the locals the boy had gathered started coming into the camp, Shinau'av and Togo'av were busy sharing the amazing story of what had happened to the boy, and that now there were two of them. Everyone saw this as a sign of a successful journey to the land of Stone Shirt. So, they set off on their expedition.

THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 307

Now the boy had been told in the dream of his three days' slumber, of a magical cup, and he had brought it home with him from his journey among the nations, and the So'kus Wai'unats carried it between them, filled with water. Shinau'av walked on their right and Togo'av on their left, and the nations followed in the order in which they had been enlisted. There was a vast number of them, so that when they were stretched out in line it was one day's journey from the front to the rear of the column.

Now the boy had been told in the dream during his three days of sleep about a magical cup, and he had brought it home with him from his journey among the nations. The So'kus Wai'unats carried it between them, filled with water. Shinau'av walked on their right and Togo'av on their left, and the nations followed in the order they had been summoned. There were so many of them that when they lined up, it took a whole day’s journey from the front to the back of the column.

When they had journeyed two days and were far out on the desert, all the people thirsted, for they found no water, and they fell down upon the sand groaning and murmuring that they had been deceived, and they cursed the One-Two.

When they had traveled for two days and were deep in the desert, everyone was thirsty because they couldn't find any water. They collapsed onto the sand, groaning and complaining that they had been tricked, and they cursed the One-Two.

But the So'kus Wai'unats had been told in the wonderful dream of the suffering which would be endured, and that the water which they carried in the cup was to be used only in dire necessity; and the brothers said to each other:

But the So'kus Wai'unats had been told in the amazing dream of the suffering they would face, and that the water they were carrying in the cup was to be used only in a dire emergency; and the brothers said to each other:

"Now the time has come for us to drink the water."

"Now it’s time for us to drink the water."

And when one had quaffed of the magical bowl, he found it still full; and he gave it to the other to drink, and still it was full; and the One-Two gave it to the people, and one after another did they all drink, and still the cup was full to the brim.

And when someone drank from the magical bowl, he found it still full; he passed it to the other person, and it was still full; then the One-Two gave it to the people, and one by one they all drank, and still the cup was full to the brim.

But Shinau'av was dead, and all the people mourned, for he was a great man. The brothers held the cup over him and sprinkled him with water, when he arose and said:

But Shinau'av was dead, and everyone mourned, because he was a great man. The brothers held the cup over him and sprinkled him with water, and then he rose and said:

"Why do you disturb me? I did have a vision of mountain brooks and meadows, of cane where honey dew was plenty."

"Why are you bothering me? I had a vision of mountain streams and grassy fields, where there was plenty of sweet honeydew."

They gave him the cup and he drank also; but when he had finished there was none left. Refreshed and rejoicing, they proceeded on their journey.

They handed him the cup, and he drank from it too; but when he was done, there was nothing left. Feeling refreshed and happy, they continued on their journey.

The next day, being without food, they were hungry, and all were about to perish; and again they murmured at the brothers and cursed them. But the So'kus Wai'unats saw in the distance an antelope, standing on an eminence in the plain, in bold relief against the sky; and Shinau'av knew it was the wonderful antelope with many eyes which Stone Shirt kept for his watchman; and he proposed to go and kill it, but Togo'av demurred and said:

The next day, since they had no food, they were hungry, and everyone was close to starving; once more, they complained about the brothers and cursed them. But So'kus Wai'unats spotted an antelope in the distance, standing on a rise in the plain, clearly visible against the sky; and Shinau'av recognized it as the amazing antelope with many eyes that Stone Shirt kept as his lookout; he suggested going to hunt it, but Togo'av hesitated and said:

308 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

"It were better that I should go, for he will see you and run away."

"It’s better if I leave because he’ll see you and take off."

But the So'kus Wai'unats told Shinau'av to go; and he started in a direction away to the left of where the antelope was standing, that he might make a long detour about some hills and come upon him from the other side.

But the So'kus Wai'unats told Shinau'av to go; and he began to head in a direction to the left of where the antelope was standing, so he could make a long detour around some hills and approach it from the other side.

Togo'av went a little way from camp and called to the brothers:

Togo'av walked a short distance from the camp and called out to his brothers:

"Do you see me!"

"Can you see me?"

They answered they did not.

They replied they didn't.

"Hunt for me."

"Look for me."

While they were hunting for him, the Rattlesnake said:

While they were looking for him, the Rattlesnake said:

"I can see you; you are doing so and so," telling them what they were doing; but they could not find him.

"I can see you; you're doing this and that," telling them what they were doing; but they couldn't find him.

Then the Rattlesnake came forth declaring:

Then the Rattlesnake came forward announcing:

"Now you know that when I so desire I can see others and I cannot be seen. Shinau'av cannot kill that antelope, for he has many eyes, and is the wonderful watchman of Stone Shirt; but I can kill him, for I can go where he is and he cannot see me."

"Now you know that when I really want to, I can see others without being seen. Shinau'av can't kill that antelope because he has many eyes and is the great guardian of Stone Shirt; but I can kill him because I can go where he is, and he won't see me."

So the brothers were convinced and permitted him to go; and Togo'av went and killed the antelope. When Shinau'av saw it fall, he was very angry, for he was extremely proud of his fame as a hunter and anxious to have the honor of killing this famous antelope, and he ran up with the intention of killing Togo'av; but when he drew near and saw the antelope was fat and would make a rich feast for the people, his anger was appeased.

So the brothers were convinced and let him go; Togo'av went and killed the antelope. When Shinau'av saw it drop, he was really angry because he took great pride in his reputation as a hunter and wanted the honor of killing this well-known antelope. He rushed over with the intention of killing Togo'av, but when he got closer and saw that the antelope was fat and would provide a lavish feast for the people, his anger faded.

"What matters it," said he, "who kills the game, when we can all eat it?"

"What difference does it make," he said, "who hunts the game, when we can all enjoy it?"

So all the people were fed in abundance and they proceeded on their journey.

So everyone was fed well, and they continued on their journey.

The next day the people again suffered for water, and the magical cup was empty; but the So'kus Wai'unats, having been told in their dream what to do, transformed themselves into doves and flew away to a lake, on the margin of which was the home of Stone Shirt.

The next day, the people were once again desperate for water, and the magical cup was empty. However, the So'kus Wai'unats, having received guidance in their dreams, turned themselves into doves and flew off to a lake, where Stone Shirt's home was located on the shore.

Coming near to the shore, they saw two maidens bathing in the water; and the birds stood and looked, for the maidens were very beautiful. Then they flew into some bushes near by, to have a nearer view, and were caught in a snare which the girls had placed for intrusive birds.

Coming close to the shore, they saw two young women bathing in the water; and the birds stopped and stared, because the women were very beautiful. Then they flew into some nearby bushes for a better look and got caught in a trap that the girls had set for nosy birds.

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The beautiful maidens came up and, taking the birds out of the snare, admired them very much, for they had never seen such birds before. They carried them to their father, Stone Shirt, who said:

The beautiful young women approached, and as they removed the birds from the trap, they admired them greatly, as they had never seen such birds before. They brought them to their father, Stone Shirt, who said:

"My daughters, I very much fear these are spies from my enemies, for such birds do not live in our land."

"My daughters, I'm really worried these are spies sent by my enemies, because birds like that don’t belong here."

He was about to throw them into the fire, when the maidens besought him, with tears, that he would not destroy their beautiful birds; but he yielded to their entreaties with much misgiving. Then they took the birds to the shore of the lake and set them free.

He was about to throw them into the fire when the young women begged him, in tears, not to destroy their beautiful birds; he reluctantly gave in to their pleas. Then they took the birds to the lake's shore and set them free.

When the birds were at liberty once more they flew around among the bushes until they found the magical cup which they had lost, and taking it up they carried it out into the middle of the lake and settled down upon the water, and the maidens supposed they were drowned.

When the birds were free again, they flew around the bushes until they found the magical cup they had lost. After picking it up, they carried it out to the middle of the lake and landed on the water, leading the maidens to think they had drowned.

AN INTERIOR LODGE.

A lodge interior.

The birds, when they had filled their cup, rose again and went back to the people in the desert, where they arrived just at the right time to save them with the cup of water, from which each drank; and yet it was full until the last was satisfied, and then not a drop remained.

The birds, after they filled their cup, flew back to the people in the desert, arriving just in time to save them with the cup of water, from which everyone drank; and yet it stayed full until the last person was satisfied, and then not a drop was left.

The brothers reported that they had seen Stone Shirt and his daughters.

The brothers said they had seen Stone Shirt and his daughters.

310

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

HALVED AND PINNED TRAPDOOR FRAME OF ZUÑI KIVA.

The next day they came near to the home of the enemy, and the brothers, in proper person, went out to reconnoiter. Seeing a woman gleaning seeds, they drew near, and knew it was their mother, whom Stone Shirt had stolen from Sikor', the Crane. They told her they were her sons, but she denied it and said she had never had but one son; but the boys related to her their history, with the origin of the two from one, and she was convinced. She tried to dissuade them from making war upon Stone Shirt, and told them that no arrow could possibly penetrate his armor, and that he was a great warrior and had no other delight than in killing his enemies, and that his daughters also were furnished with magical bows and arrows, which they could shoot so fast that the arrows would fill the air like a cloud, and that it was not necessary for them to take aim, for their missiles went where they willed; they thought the arrows to the hearts of their enemies; and thus the maidens could kill the whole of the people before a common arrow could be shot by a common person. But the boys told her what the spirit had said in the long dream and that it had promised that Stone Shirt should be killed. They told her to go down to the lake at dawn, so as not to be endangered by the battle.

The next day, they approached the enemy's home, and the brothers went out to scout. When they saw a woman gathering seeds, they got closer and recognized her as their mother, whom Stone Shirt had taken from Sikor', the Crane. They told her they were her sons, but she denied it, insisting she had only ever had one son. However, the boys shared their story, explaining how two had come from one, and she was convinced. She tried to talk them out of attacking Stone Shirt, warning them that no arrow could pierce his armor and that he was a great warrior who took pleasure in killing his enemies. She also mentioned that his daughters were equipped with magical bows and arrows, able to shoot so rapidly that their arrows filled the air like a cloud, and they didn’t need to aim because their missiles hit exactly where they wanted. The girls could take out an entire group of people before an ordinary person could fire a single arrow. But the boys told her what the spirit had revealed in the long dream and that it had promised Stone Shirt would be killed. They advised her to go down to the lake at dawn to avoid being caught in the battle.

During the night the So'kus Wai'unats transformed themselves into mice and proceeded to the home of Stone Shirt and found the magical bows and arrows that belonged to the maidens, and with their sharp teeth they cut the sinew on the backs of the bows and nibbled the bow strings, so that they were worthless. Togo'av hid himself under a rock near by.

During the night, the So'kus Wai'unats changed into mice and went to Stone Shirt's house, where they found the magical bows and arrows that belonged to the maidens. With their sharp teeth, they cut the sinew on the backs of the bows and nibbled the bowstrings until they became useless. Togo'av hid under a nearby rock.

When dawn came into the sky, Tumpwinai'ro-gwinump, the Stone Shirt man, arose and walked out of his tent, exulting

When dawn broke in the sky, Tumpwinai'ro-gwinump, the Stone Shirt man, got up and stepped out of his tent, filled with joy.

WOODEN PIVOT HINGES OF A ZUÑÍ DOOR.

THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 311

in his strength and security, and sat down upon the rock under which Togo'av was hiding; and he, seeing his opportunity, sank his fangs into the flesh of the hero. Stone Shirt sprang high into the air and called to his daughters that they were betrayed and that the enemy was near; and they seized their magical bows and their quivers filled with magical arrows and hurried to his defense. At the same time, all the nations who were surrounding the camp rushed down to battle. But the beautiful maidens, finding their weapons were destroyed, waved back their enemies, as if they would parley; and standing for a few moments over the body of their slain father, sang the death song and danced the death dance, whirling in giddy circles about the dead hero and wailing with despair, until they sank down and expired.

in his strength and security, he sat down on the rock where Togo'av was hiding; and he, seeing his chance, sank his fangs into the flesh of the hero. Stone Shirt jumped high into the air and called to his daughters that they had been betrayed and that the enemy was near; they grabbed their magical bows and their quivers filled with magical arrows and rushed to his defense. At the same time, all the nations surrounding the camp charged into battle. But the beautiful maidens, realizing their weapons were destroyed, waved back their enemies, as if to negotiate; and standing for a few moments over the body of their slain father, they sang the death song and performed the death dance, whirling in dizzy circles around the dead hero and wailing in despair, until they collapsed and died.

The conquerors buried the maidens by the shores of the lake; but Tumpwinai'rogwinump was left to rot and his bones to bleach on the sands, as he had left Sikor'.

The conquerors buried the maidens by the shores of the lake; but Tumpwinai'rogwinump was left to decay and his bones to bleach on the sands, as he had left Sikor'.

There is this proverb among the Utes: "Do not murmur when you suffer in doing what the spirits have commanded, for a cup of water is provided"; and another: "What matters it who kills the game, when we can all eat of it?"

There’s a saying among the Utes: "Don’t complain when you’re suffering for following what the spirits have commanded, because a cup of water will be provided;” and another: "Does it really matter who hunts the game, when we can all share in it?"

It is long after midnight when the performance is ended. The story itself is interesting, though I had heard it many times before; but never, perhaps, under circumstances more effective. Stretched beneath tall, somber pines; a great camp fire; by the fire, men, old, wrinkled, and ugly; deformed, blear-eyed, wry-faced women; lithe, stately young men; pretty but simpering maidens, naked children, all intently listening, or laughing and talking by turns, their strange faces and dusky forms lit up with the glare of the pine-knot fire. All the circumstances conspired to make it a scene strange and weird. One old man, the sorcerer or medicine man of the tribe, peculiarly impressed me. Now and then he would interrupt the play for the purpose of correcting the speakers or impressing the moral of the story with a strange dignity and impressiveness that seemed to pass to the very border of the ludicrous; yet at no time did it make me smile.

It’s well past midnight when the performance wraps up. The story itself is engaging, even though I've heard it many times before; but never, perhaps, in such impactful circumstances. Lying under tall, dark pines, a huge campfire blazes; around it are old men, wrinkled and rough-looking; deformed, bleary-eyed, and wry-faced women; lithe, elegant young men; pretty yet giggling maidens, and naked children, all listening intently, or laughing and chatting in turns, their unusual faces and dark forms illuminated by the bright pine-knot fire. Everything about the setting made it a strange and surreal scene. One old man, the tribe’s sorcerer or medicine man, left a strong impression on me. From time to time, he would interrupt the performance to correct the speakers or emphasize the moral of the story with a unique dignity and seriousness that nearly crossed into the ridiculous; yet at no point did it make me smile.

The story is finished, but there is yet time for an hour or two of sleep. I take Chuar'ruumpeak to one side for a talk. The three men who left us in the canyon last year found their way up the lateral gorge, by which

The story is finished, but there’s still time for an hour or two of sleep. I pull Chuar'ruumpeak aside for a chat. The three men who ditched us in the canyon last year managed to find their way up the side gorge, by which

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they went into the Shi'wits Mountains, lying west of us, where they met with the Indians and camped with them one or two nights and were finally killed. I am anxious to learn the circumstances, and as the people of the tribe who committed the deed live but a little way from these people and are intimate with them, I ask Chuar'ruumpeak to make inquiry for me. Then we go to bed.

they went into the Shi'wits Mountains, which are west of us, where they met the Indians and camped with them for one or two nights before they were ultimately killed. I'm eager to find out the details, and since the tribe that did this lives not far from these people and knows them well, I ask Chuar'ruumpeak to inquire on my behalf. Then we go to bed.

September 17.--Early this morning the Indians come up to our camp.

September 17.--Early this morning, the Native Americans came to our camp.

A POULTRY HOUSE OF SICHUMOVI RESEMBLING AN OVEN.

A POULTRY HOUSE OF SICHUMOVI LOOKING LIKE AN OVEN.

They have concluded to send out a young man after the Shi'vwits. The runner fixes his moccasins, puts some food in a sack and water in a little wickerwork jug, straps them on his back, and starts at a good round pace.

They decided to send a young man after the Shi'vwits. The runner tightens his moccasins, packs some food in a sack and fills a small wicker jug with water, secures them on his back, and sets off at a steady pace.

We have concluded to go down the canyon, hoping to meet the Shi'vwits on our return. Soon we are ready to start, leaving the camp and pack animals in charge of the two Indians who came with us. As we move out our new guide comes up, a blear-eyed, weazen-faced, quiet old man, with his bow and arrows in one hand and a small cane in the other. These Indians all carry canes with a crooked handle, they say to kill rattlesnakes and to pull rabbits from their holes. The valley is high up in the mountain and we descend from it by a rocky, precipitous trail, down, down, down for two long, weary hours, leading our ponies and stumbling over the rocks. At last we are at the foot of the mountain, standing on a little knoll, from which we can look into a canyon below.

We decided to head down the canyon, hoping to meet the Shi'vwits on our way back. Soon, we were ready to go, leaving the camp and pack animals in the care of the two Native Americans who came with us. As we set out, our new guide approached us—a bleary-eyed, thin-faced, quiet old man, holding his bow and arrows in one hand and a small cane in the other. These Native Americans all carry canes with a curved handle; they say it's for killing rattlesnakes and pulling rabbits from their burrows. The valley is high in the mountains, and we descend from it via a rocky, steep trail, going down, down, down for two long, exhausting hours, leading our ponies and stumbling over the stones. Finally, we reach the foot of the mountain, standing on a small knoll from which we can see into the canyon below.

THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 313

Into this we descend, and then we follow it for miles, clambering down and still down. Often we cross beds of lava, that have been poured into the canyon by lateral channels, and these angular fragments of basalt make the way very rough for the animals.

Into this, we descend, and then we follow it for miles, climbing down and still down. Often we cross beds of lava that have flowed into the canyon through side channels, and these jagged pieces of basalt make the path really tough for the animals.

About two o'clock the guide halts us with his wand, and, springing over the rocks, he is lost in a gulch. In a few minutes he returns, and tells us there is a little water below in a pocket. It is vile and our ponies refuse to drink it. We pass on, still descending. A mile or two from the water basin we come to a precipice more than 1,000 feet to the bottom. There is a canyon running at a greater depth and at right angles to this, into which this enters by the precipice; and this second canyon is a lateral one to the greater one, in the bottom of which we are to find the river. Searching about, we find a way by which we can descend along the shelves and steps and piles of broken rocks.

Around two o'clock, the guide stops us with his stick, and after jumping over the rocks, he disappears into a ravine. A few minutes later, he comes back and tells us there’s some water down in a small pocket. It’s disgusting, and our ponies refuse to drink it. We continue on, still going downwards. A mile or two from the water source, we reach a cliff that drops more than 1,000 feet to the bottom. There’s a canyon running deeper and at a right angle to this one, into which it plunges via the cliff; this second canyon is a side branch of the larger one, where we need to find the river. As we look around, we discover a route that allows us to descend along the ledges, steps, and piles of broken rocks.

We start, leading our ponies; a wall upon our left; unknown depths on our right. At places our way is along shelves so narrow or so sloping that I ache with fear lest a pony should make a misstep and knock a man over the cliffs with him. Now and then we start the loose rocks under our feet, and over the cliffs they go, thundering down, down, the echoes rolling through distant canyons. At last we pass along a level shelf for some distance, then we turn to the right and zigzag down a steep slope to the bottom. Now we pass along this lower canyon for two or three miles, to where it terminates in the Grand Canyon, as the other ended in this, only the river is 1,800 feet below us, and it seems at this distance to be but a creek. Our withered guide, the human pickle, seats himself on a rock and seems wonderfully amused at our discomfiture, for we can see no way by which to descend to the river. After some minutes he quietly rises and, beckoning us to follow, points out a narrow sloping shelf on the right, and this is to be our way. It leads along the cliff for half a mile to a wider bench beyond, which, he says, is broken down on the other side in a great slide, and there we can get to the river. So we start out on the shelf; it is so steep we can hardly stand on it, and to fall or slip is to go--don't look to see!

We begin, guiding our ponies; a wall on our left; unknown depths on our right. At times, our path is along shelves so narrow or slanted that I feel a surge of fear that a pony might misstep and send a person over the cliffs with them. Occasionally, we disturb the loose rocks beneath our feet, and they tumble over the edge, crashing down, with the echoes reverberating through the distant canyons. Finally, we walk along a flat shelf for a while, then turn right and zigzag down a steep slope to the bottom. Now we make our way through this lower canyon for two or three miles, until it ends in the Grand Canyon, just as the other canyon led into this one, except the river is 1,800 feet below us and appears to be just a creek from this distance. Our frail guide, looking like a human pickle, sits on a rock and seems quite entertained by our confusion, since we can’t see how to get down to the river. After a few minutes, he stands up, gestures for us to follow, and points out a narrow sloping shelf on the right, which will be our route. It leads along the cliff for half a mile to a wider ledge ahead, which he says is broken down on the other side due to a big slide, and that’s how we can reach the river. So we set out on the shelf; it's so steep we can barely keep our footing, and to fall or slip means disaster—don’t look to see!

It is soon manifest that we cannot get the ponies along the ledge. The storms have washed it down since our guide was here last, years ago. One of the ponies has gone so far that we cannot turn him back until we

It quickly becomes clear that we can't get the ponies along the ledge. The storms have eroded it since our guide was here last, years ago. One of the ponies has gone too far, and we can't turn him back until we

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Colorado Canyons.

find a wider place, but at last we get him off. With part of the men, I take the horses back to the place where there are a few bushes growing and turn them loose; in the meantime the other men are looking for some way by which we can get down to the river. When I return, one, Captain Bishop, has found a way and gone down. We pack bread, coffee, sugar, and two or three blankets among us, and set out. It is now nearly dark, and we cannot find the way by which the captain

find a wider spot, but finally, we get him out. With some of the guys, I take the horses back to an area with a few bushes and let them go; meanwhile, the others are trying to figure out how to get down to the river. When I get back, one of them, Captain Bishop, has found a way and has gone down. We pack some bread, coffee, sugar, and a couple of blankets among us and head out. It's almost dark now, and we can't find the path that the captain took.

THE HUMAN PICKLE.

went, and an hour is spent in fruitless search. Two of the men go away around an amphitheater, more than a fourth of a mile, and start down a broken chasm that faces us who are behind. These walls, that are vertical, or nearly so, are often cut by chasms, where the showers run down,

went, and an hour is wasted looking for something that isn't there. Two of the guys walk around an amphitheater, which is over a fourth of a mile, and begin to descend a broken ravine that faces us who are left behind. These walls, which are vertical, or almost so, are often interrupted by gorges, where the rainwater runs down,

THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 315

and the top of these chasms will be back a distance from the face of the wall, and the bed of the chasm will slope down, with here and there a fall. At other places huge rocks have fallen and block the way. Down such a one the two men start. There is a curious plant growing out from the crevices of the rock. A dozen stems will start from one root and grow to the length of eight or ten feet and not throw out a branch or twig, but these stems are thickly covered with leaves. Now and then the two men come to a bunch of dead stems and make a fire to mark for us their way and progress.

and the tops of these chasms will be set back a distance from the wall, and the bottom of the chasm will slope down, with drops here and there. In other spots, huge rocks have fallen and block the path. Down one of these, the two men begin their descent. There’s a strange plant growing out of the rock crevices. A dozen stems will emerge from one root and can grow to eight or ten feet long without branching out, but these stems are densely covered with leaves. Every now and then, the two men come across a cluster of dead stems and make a fire to show us their route and progress.

In the meantime we find such a gulch and start down, but soon come to the "jumping-off place," where we can throw a stone and faintly hear it strike, away below. We fear that we shall have to stay here, clinging to the rocks until daylight. Our little Indian gathers a few dry stems, ties them into a bundle, lights one end, and holds it up. The others do the same, and with these torches we find a way out of trouble. Helping each other, holding torches for each other, one clinging to another's hand until we can get footing, then supporting the other on his shoulders, thus we make our passage into the depths of the canyon.

In the meantime, we find a gorge and start heading down, but soon we reach the "jumping-off place," where we can throw a stone and barely hear it hit far below. We're worried that we might have to stay here, hanging onto the rocks until morning. Our little Indian gathers some dry sticks, ties them together, lights one end, and holds it up. The others do the same, and with these torches, we find a way out of trouble. Helping each other, holding torches for one another, one person clinging to another's hand until we find our footing, then supporting the other on his shoulders, we make our way into the depths of the canyon.

And now Captain Bishop has kindled a huge fire of driftwood on the bank of the river. This and the fires in the gulch opposite and our own flaming torches light up little patches that make more manifest the awful darkness below. Still, on we go for an hour or two, and at last we see Captain Bishop coming up the gulch with a huge torchlight on his shoulders. He looks like a fiend, waving brands and lighting the fires of hell, and the men in the opposite gulch are imps, lighting delusive fires in inaccessible crevices, over yawning chasms; our own little Indian is surely the king of wizards, so I think, as I stop for a few moments on a rock to rest. At last we meet Captain Bishop, with his flaming torch, and as he has learned the way he soon pilots us to the side of the great Colorado. We are athirst and hungry, almost to starvation. Here we lie down on the rocks and drink, just a mouthful or so, as we dare; then we make a cup of coffee, and spreading our blankets on a sand beach the roaring Colorado lulls us to sleep.

And now Captain Bishop has started a big fire made of driftwood on the riverbank. This, along with the fires in the opposite gulch and our own bright torches, lights up small areas that make the deep darkness below even more apparent. We keep moving for another hour or two, and finally, we see Captain Bishop coming up the gulch with a massive torch on his shoulders. He looks like a demon, waving flames and igniting the fires of hell, while the men in the opposite gulch seem like mischievous spirits, lighting deceptive fires in hard-to-reach spots, over gaping chasms; our little Indian must surely be the master of magic, I think, as I pause for a moment on a rock to rest. Eventually, we meet Captain Bishop with his blazing torch, and since he knows the way, he quickly guides us to the edge of the great Colorado. We are thirsty and hungry, nearly starving. Here, we lie down on the rocks and drink just a little, as much as we can manage; then we make a cup of coffee, and spreading our blankets on a sandy beach, the roaring Colorado lulls us to sleep.

September 18.--We are in the Grand Canyon, by the side of the Colorado, more than 6,000 feet below our camp on the mountain side, which is 18 miles away; but the miles of horizontal distance represent but

September 18.--We're in the Grand Canyon, next to the Colorado River, over 6,000 feet below our campsite on the mountain, which is 18 miles away; however, the horizontal distance doesn’t actually represent much.

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Colorado Canyons.

a small part of the day's labor before us. It is the mile of altitude we must gain that makes it a Herculean task. We are up early; a little bread and coffee, and we look about us. Our conclusion is that we can make this a depot of supplies, should it be necessary; that we can pack our rations to the point where we left our animals last night, and that we can employ Indians to bring them down to the water's edge.

a small part of the day's work ahead of us. It’s the mile of elevation we have to climb that turns it into a massive challenge. We’re up early; a bit of bread and coffee, and we look around. Our conclusion is that we can set this up as a supply depot if needed; we can pack our rations to the point where we left our animals last night, and we can hire local people to bring them down to the water’s edge.

On a broad shelf we find the ruins of an old stone house, the walls of which are broken down, and we can see where the ancient people who lived here--a race more highly civilized than the present--had made a garden and used a great spring that comes out of the rocks for irrigation. On some rocks near by we discover some curious etchings. Still searching about, we find an obscure trail up the canyon wall, marked here and there by steps which have been built in the loose rock, elsewhere hewn stairways, and we find a much easier way to go up than that by which we came down in the darkness last night. Coming to the top of the wall, we catch our horses and start. Up the canyon our jaded ponies toil and we reach the second cliff; up this we go, by easy stages, leading the animals. Now we reach the offensive water pocket; our ponies have had no water for thirty hours, and are eager even for this foul fluid. We carefully strain a kettleful for ourselves, then divide what is left between them--two or three gallons for each; but it does not satisfy them, and they rage around, refusing to eat the scanty grass. We boil our kettle of water, and skim it; straining, boiling, and skimming make it a little better, for it was full of loathsome, wriggling larvae, with huge black heads. But plenty of coffee takes away the bad smell, and so modifies the taste that most of us can drink, though our little Indian seems to prefer the original mixture. We reach camp about sunset, and are glad to rest.

On a wide shelf, we find the ruins of an old stone house with crumbled walls, where we can see that the ancient people who lived here—a society more advanced than ours—had created a garden and used a large spring from the rocks for irrigation. Nearby, we discover some interesting carvings on the rocks. As we keep searching, we find a hidden trail up the canyon wall, marked in some places by steps built in the loose rock and in others by carved stairways. We find an easier route to go up than the one we took down in the darkness last night. When we reach the top of the wall, we catch our horses and set off. Our tired ponies struggle up the canyon, and we arrive at the second cliff; we ascend this gradually while leading the animals. Now we come to the unpleasant water pocket; our ponies haven’t had water for thirty hours and are desperate for even this dirty water. We carefully filter a kettleful for ourselves, then divide what’s left between them—two or three gallons each—but it doesn't satisfy them. They roam around, refusing to eat the sparse grass. We boil our kettle of water and skim it; filtering, boiling, and skimming make it a bit better, as it was full of disgusting, wriggling larvae with huge black heads. But adding plenty of coffee masks the bad smell and improves the taste enough that most of us can drink it, although our little Indian seems to prefer the original mixture. We reach camp around sunset and are glad to rest.

September 19.--We are tired and sore, and must rest a day with our Indian neighbors. During the inclement season they live in shelters made of boughs or the bark of the cedar, which they strip off in long shreds. In this climate, most of the year is dry and warm, and during such time they do not care for shelter. Clearing a small, circular space of ground, they bank it around with brush and sand, and wallow in it during the day and huddle together in a heap at night--men, women,

September 19.--We're tired and sore, so we need to rest for a day with our Indian neighbors. During the bad weather, they live in shelters made of branches or strips of cedar bark. In this climate, most of the year is dry and warm, so they don't worry about shelter during that time. They clear a small, circular area of ground, surround it with brush and sand, and lie in it during the day, huddling together at night—men, women,

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RECENT LAVA FLOW ON THE UINKARET.

A ZUÑI WINDOW GLAZED WITH SELENITE.

A Zuni window covered with selenite.

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Canyons of the Colorado.

and children; buckskin, rags, and sand. They wear very little clothing, not needing much in this lovely climate.

and children; leather, rags, and sand. They wear very little clothing, not needing much in this beautiful climate.

Altogether, these Indians are more nearly in their primitive condition than any others on the continent with whom I am acquainted. They have never received anything from the government and are too poor to tempt the trader, and their country is so nearly inaccessible that the white man never visits them. The sunny mountain side is covered with: wild fruits, nuts, and native grains, upon which they subsist. The oose, the fruit of the yucca, or Spanish bayonet, is rich, and not unlike the pawpaw of the valley of the Ohio. They eat it raw and also roast it in the ashes. They gather the fruits of a cactus plant, which are rich and luscious, and eat them as grapes or express the juice from them, making the dry pulp into cakes and saving them for winter and drinking the wine about their camp fires until the midnight is merry with their revelries.

Overall, these Indigenous people live in a more primitive state than any others on the continent that I know of. They've never received anything from the government and are too poor to attract traders, and their land is so hard to reach that white people seldom visit them. The sunny mountainside is filled with wild fruits, nuts, and native grains, which make up their diet. The oose, the fruit of the yucca or Spanish bayonet, is rich and somewhat similar to the pawpaw found in the Ohio Valley. They eat it raw and also roast it in the ashes. They collect the fruit from a cactus plant, which is rich and delicious, eating them like grapes or squeezing the juice out to make dry pulp into cakes for the winter, drinking the juice around their campfires until midnight, celebrating joyfully.

They gather the seeds of many plants, as sunflowers, golden-rod, and grasses. For this purpose they have large conical baskets, which hold two or more bushels. The women carry them on their backs, suspended from their foreheads by broad straps, and with a smaller one in the left hand and a willow-woven fan in the right they walk among the grasses and sweep the seed into the smaller basket, which is emptied now and then into the larger, until it is full of seeds and chaff; then they winnow out the chaff and roast the seeds. They roast these curiously; they put seeds and a quantity of red-hot coals into a willow tray and, by rapidly and dexterously shaking and tossing them, keep the coals aglow and the seeds and tray from burning. So skilled are the crones in this work they roll the seeds to one side of the tray as they are roasted and the coals to the other as if by magic.

They collect seeds from a variety of plants, like sunflowers, goldenrod, and grasses. For this, they use large conical baskets that can hold two or more bushels. The women carry these baskets on their backs, secured by broad straps around their foreheads. With a smaller basket in their left hand and a willow fan in their right, they walk through the grasses and sweep the seeds into the smaller basket, which they periodically empty into the larger one until it's full of seeds and chaff. Then, they separate the chaff and roast the seeds. They roast them in a unique way: they place the seeds and some hot coals in a willow tray, and by shaking and tossing the tray quickly and skillfully, they keep the coals hot and prevent the seeds and tray from burning. The older women are so proficient at this that they manage to roll the seeds to one side of the tray as they roast while moving the coals to the other side, almost like magic.

Then they grind the seeds into a fine flour and make it into cakes and mush. It is a merry sight, sometimes, to see the women grinding at the

Then they grind the seeds into a fine flour and make it into cakes and mush. It’s a cheerful scene, sometimes, to see the women grinding at the

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319

mill. For a mill, they use a large flat rock, lying on the ground, and another small cylindrical one in their hands. They sit prone on the ground, hold the large flat rock between the feet and legs, then fill their laps with seeds, making a hopper to the mill with their dusky legs, and grind by pushing the seeds across the larger rock, where they drop into a tray. I have seen a group of women grinding together, keeping time to a chant, or gossiping and chatting, while the younger lassies would jest and chatter and make the pine woods merry with their laughter.

mill. To use a mill, they take a large flat rock that lies on the ground and a smaller cylindrical one in their hands. They sit down on the ground, secure the large flat rock between their feet and legs, then pile seeds in their laps, creating a hopper to the mill with their dark legs, and grind the seeds by pushing them across the bigger rock, where they fall into a tray. I have seen a group of women grinding together, keeping rhythm to a chant or chatting and gossiping, while the younger girls would joke and talk, filling the pine woods with their laughter.

Mothers carry their babes curiously in baskets. They make a wicker board by plaiting willows and sew a buckskin cloth to either edge, and this is fulled in the middle so as to form a sack closed at the bottom. At the top they make a wicker shade, like "my grandmother's sunbonnet," and wrapping the little one in a wild-cat robe, place it in the basket, and this they carry on their backs, strapped over the forehead, and the little brown midgets are ever peering over their mothers' shoulders. In camp, they stand the basket against the trunk of a tree or hang it to a limb.

Mothers carry their babies in baskets. They make a wicker board by weaving willows and sew a buckskin cloth to each edge, which is gathered in the middle to create a sack closed at the bottom. At the top, they create a wicker shade, similar to "my grandmother's sunbonnet," and after wrapping the baby in a wild-cat robe, they place it in the basket, which they carry on their backs, strapped over their foreheads, while the little ones peek over their mothers' shoulders. In camp, they lean the basket against the trunk of a tree or hang it from a branch.

There is little game in the country, yet they get a mountain sheep now and then or a deer, with their arrows, for they are not yet supplied with guns. They get many rabbits, sometimes with arrows, sometimes with nets. They make a net of twine, made of the fibers of a native flax. Sometimes this is made a hundred yards in length, and is placed in a half-circular position, with wings of sage brush. Then they have a circle hunt, and drive great numbers of rabbits into the snare, where they are shot with arrows. Most of their bows are made of cedar, but the best are made of the horns of mountain sheep. These are soaked in water until quite soft, cut into long thin strips, and glued together; they are then quite elastic. During the autumn, grasshoppers are very abundant, can be gathered by the bushel. At such a time, they dig a hole in the sand, heat stones in a fire near by, put some hot stones in the bottom of the hole, put on a layer of grasshoppers, then a layer of hot stones, and continue this, until they put bushels on to roast. There they are.

There isn't much game in the countryside, but they manage to catch a mountain sheep now and then or a deer with their arrows since they don't have guns yet. They catch a lot of rabbits, sometimes using arrows and sometimes nets. They make nets from twine made from the fibers of local flax. Sometimes these nets are a hundred yards long and set up in a half-circle with wings made of sagebrush. Then they organize a circle hunt, driving large numbers of rabbits into the trap, where they are shot with arrows. Most of their bows are made from cedar, but the best ones are crafted from the horns of mountain sheep. These horns are soaked in water until they’re soft, then cut into long thin strips and glued together; this makes them quite flexible. In the autumn, grasshoppers are plentiful and can be collected by the bushel. During that time, they dig a hole in the sand, heat stones in a nearby fire, place some hot stones at the bottom of the hole, add a layer of grasshoppers, then a layer of hot stones, and keep alternating until they have bushels roasting. That's how they do it.

A ZUÑÍ CHAIR.

A Zuni chair.

When cold weather sets in, these insects are numbed and

When cold weather arrives, these insects become numb and

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Colorado Canyons.

AN ANCIENT CIRCULAR DOORWAY OR "STONE CLOSE" IN KIN-TIEL.

left until cool, when they are taken out, thoroughly dried, and ground into meal. Grasshopper gruel or grasshopper cake is a great treat.

left until cool, then taken out, completely dried, and ground into flour. Grasshopper gruel or grasshopper cake is a delicious treat.

Their lore consists of a mass of traditions, or mythology. It is very difficult to induce them to tell it to white men; but the old Spanish priests, in the days of the conquest of New Mexico, spread among the Indians of this country many Bible stories, which the Indians are usually willing to tell. It is not always easy to recognize them; the Indian mind is a strange receptacle for such stories and they are apt to sprout new limbs. Maybe much of their added quaint-ness is due to the way in which they were told by the "fathers." But in a confidential way, while alone, or when admitted to their camp fire on a winter night, one may hear the stories of their mythology. I believe that the greatest mark of friendship or confidence that an Indian can give is to tell you his religion. After one has so talked with me I should ever trust him; and I feel on very good terms with these Indians since our experience of the other night.

Their stories consist of a lot of traditions or myths. It’s really hard to get them to share these with white people, but the old Spanish priests, back when New Mexico was being conquered, shared many Bible stories with the Indians here, which they’re usually open to recounting. It’s not always easy to recognize these stories; the Indian mind has a unique way of interpreting them, often adding new twists. A lot of their quirky details probably come from how the "fathers" shared them. However, in a private moment, while alone or when welcomed by their campfire on a cold night, you might hear their mythological stories. I think the biggest sign of friendship or trust that an Indian can show is to share his beliefs with you. After having a conversation like that with someone, I would trust him completely; I feel really good about my relationship with these Indians after our experience the other night.

A knowledge of the watering places and of the trails and passes is considered of great importance and is necessary to give standing to a chief.

Knowing the watering holes and the trails and passes is really important and necessary for a chief to gain respect.

This evening, the Shi'vwits, for whom we have sent, come in, and after supper we hold a long council. A blazing fire is built, and around this we sit--the Indians living here, the Shi'vwits, Jacob Hamblin, and myself.

This evening, the Shi'vwits, for whom we've sent, arrive, and after dinner we have a long meeting. We build a big fire, and around it we sit—the local Indians, the Shi'vwits, Jacob Hamblin, and me.

This man, Hamblin, speaks their language well and has a great influence over all the Indians in the region round about. He is a silent, reserved man, and when he speaks it is in a slow, quiet way that inspires great awe. His talk is so low that they must listen attentively to hear, and they sit around him in deathlike silence. When he finishes a

This guy, Hamblin, speaks their language fluently and has a huge impact on all the Native people in the surrounding area. He’s a quiet, reserved man, and when he does speak, it’s in a slow, soft manner that commands a lot of respect. His voice is so low that they have to listen closely to catch what he says, and they gather around him in complete silence. When he finishes a

A GAMING RING.

A gaming community.

THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 321

measured sentence the chief repeats it and they all give a solemn grunt. But, first, I fill my pipe, light it, and take a few whiffs, then pass it to Hamblin; he smokes, and gives it to the man next, and so it goes around. When it has passed the chief, he takes out his own pipe, fills and lights it, and passes it around after mine. I can smoke my own pipe in turn, but when the Indian pipe comes around, I am nonplused. It has a large stem, which has at some time been broken, and now there is a buckskin rag wound around it and tied with sinew, so that the end of the stem is a huge mouthful, exceedingly repulsive. To gain time, I refill it, then engage in very earnest conversation, and, all unawares, I pass it to my neighbor unlighted.

measured sentence, the chief repeats it, and everyone gives a serious grunt. But first, I fill my pipe, light it, and take a few puffs, then pass it to Hamblin; he smokes, then gives it to the next guy, and it keeps going around. After it’s gone around the chief, he pulls out his own pipe, fills and lights it, and then passes it around after mine. I can smoke my own pipe in turn, but when the Indian pipe comes around, I’m at a loss. It has a large stem that’s been broken at some point, and now there’s a buckskin rag wrapped around it and tied with sinew, making the end of the stem a huge, pretty disgusting mouthful. To buy some time, I refill it, then get into a serious conversation, and, without realizing it, I pass it to my neighbor unlit.

I tell the Indians that I wish to spend some months in their country during the coming year and that I would like them to treat me as a friend. I do not wish to trade; do not want their lands. Heretofore I have found it very difficult to make the natives understand my object, but the gravity of the Mormon missionary helps me much. I tell them that all the great and good white men are anxious to know very many things, that they spend much time in learning, and that the greatest man is he who knows the most; that the white men want to know all about the mountains and the valleys, the rivers and the canyons, the beasts and birds and snakes. Then I tell them of many Indian tribes, and where they live; of the European nations; of the Chinese, of Africans, and all the strange things about them that come to my mind. I tell them of the ocean, of great rivers and high mountains, of strange beasts and birds. At last I tell them I wish to learn about their canyons and mountains, and about themselves, to tell other men at home; and that I want to take pictures of everything and show them to my friends. All this occupies much time, and the matter and manner make a deep impression.

I tell the Native Americans that I want to spend a few months in their land next year and that I'd like them to treat me as a friend. I’m not looking to trade or take their land. In the past, I’ve found it really hard to get the locals to understand my intentions, but the seriousness of the Mormon missionary helps a lot. I explain that all the great and good white people are eager to learn many things, that they dedicate a lot of time to education, and that the wisest person is the one who knows the most. I share that white people want to know everything about the mountains, valleys, rivers, canyons, animals, birds, and snakes. Then, I talk about various Native American tribes and their locations, about European countries, the Chinese, Africans, and all the fascinating things I can think of about them. I mention the ocean, big rivers, tall mountains, and unusual animals and birds. Finally, I express my desire to learn about their canyons and mountains, and about them, so I can share it with others back home, and that I want to take pictures of everything to show my friends. This all takes a lot of time, and the content and delivery leave a strong impression.

Then their chief replies: "Your talk is good, and we believe what you say. We believe in Jacob, and look upon you as a father. When you are hungry, you may have our game. You may gather our sweet fruits. We will give you food when you come to our land. We will show you the springs and you may drink; the water is good. We will be friends and when you come we will be glad. We will tell the Indians who live on the other side of the great river that we have seen Ka'purats, and that he is the Indians' friend. We will tell them he is Jacob's

Then their leader replies: "What you say is good, and we believe you. We trust Jacob and see you as a father. When you're hungry, you can have our game. You can pick our sweet fruits. We'll provide you with food when you visit our land. We'll show you the springs, and you can drink; the water is great. We'll be friends, and when you come, we'll be happy to see you. We'll let the Indians living on the other side of the big river know that we’ve met Ka'purats, and that he is a friend to the Indians. We’ll tell them he is Jacob’s.”

322

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

friend. We are very poor. Look at our women and children; they are naked. We have no horses; we climb the rocks and our feet are sore. We live among rocks and they yield little food and many thorns. When the cold moons come, our children are hungry. We have not much to give; you must not think us mean. You are wise; we have heard you tell strange things. We are ignorant. Last year we killed three white men. Bad men said they were our enemies. They told great lies. We thought them true. Wo were mad; it made us big fools. We are very sorry. Do not think of them; it is done; let us be friends. We are ignorant--like little children in understanding compared with you. When we do wrong, do not you get mad and be like children too.

friend. We are very poor. Look at our women and children; they are without clothes. We have no horses; we climb the rocks and our feet are hurt. We live among rocks that provide little food and many thorns. When the cold moons arrive, our children go hungry. We don’t have much to offer; please don’t think we are ungrateful. You are wise; we’ve heard you share strange stories. We are uneducated. Last year, we killed three white men. Bad people told us they were our enemies. They lied to us. We believed them. We were angry; it made us look foolish. We are very sorry. Don’t think of them; it’s done; let’s be friends. We are uneducated—like little children in understanding compared to you. When we make mistakes, please don’t get angry and act like children too.

"When white men kill our people, we kill them. Then they kill more of us. It is not good. We hear that the white men are a great number. When they stop killing us, there will be no Indian left to

"When white men kill our people, we kill them. Then they kill more of us. It is not good. We hear that the white men are a large group. When they stop killing us, there will be no Indian left to"

INTERIOR VIEW OF A TUSAYAN KIVA.

THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 323

bury the dead. We love our country; we know not other lands. We hear that other lands are better; we do not know. The pines sing and we are glad. Our children play in the warm sand; we hear them sing and are glad. The seeds ripen and we have to eat and we are glad. We do not want their good lands; we want our rocks and the great mountains where our fathers lived. We are very poor; we are very ignorant; but we are very honest. You have horses and many things. You are very wise; you have a good heart. We will be friends. Nothing more have I to say."

bury the dead. We love our country; we don’t know any other places. We hear that other places are better; we’re not sure. The pines sing, and we’re happy. Our kids play in the warm sand; we hear them singing, and it makes us happy. The seeds ripen, and we have to eat, and we’re happy. We don’t want their rich lands; we want our rocks and the great mountains where our ancestors lived. We are very poor; we are very uninformed; but we are very honest. You have horses and many things. You are very wise; you have a good heart. We will be friends. That’s all I have to say.

Ka'purats is the name by which I am known among the Utes and Shoshones, meaning "arm off." There was much more repetition than I have given, and much emphasis. After this a few presents were given, we shook hands, and the council broke up.

Ka'purats is the name I go by among the Utes and Shoshones, meaning "arm off." There was a lot more repetition than I've included, and a lot of emphasis. After this, a few gifts were exchanged, we shook hands, and the council wrapped up.

Mr. Hamblin fell into conversation with one of the men and held him until the others had left, and then learned more of the particulars of the death of the three men. They came upon the Indian village almost starved and exhausted with fatigue. They were supplied with food and put on their way to the settlements. Shortly after they had left, an Indian from the east side of the Colorado arrived at their village and told them about a number of miners having killed a squaw in drunken brawl, and no doubt these were the men; no person had ever come down the canyon; that was impossible; they were trying to hide their guilt. In this way he worked them into a great rage. They followed, surrounded the men in ambush, and filled them full of arrows.

Mr. Hamblin struck up a conversation with one of the men and kept him engaged until the others had left. He then learned more about the circumstances surrounding the deaths of the three men. They came upon the Indian village nearly starved and completely worn out. They were given food and sent on their way to the settlements. Shortly after they left, an Indian from the east side of the Colorado arrived at their village and reported that a group of miners had killed a woman during a drunken fight, and there was no doubt these were the men involved; no one had ever come down the canyon; that was impossible; they were trying to cover up their guilt. This stirred them into a furious rage. They followed, ambushed the men, and shot them full of arrows.

That night I slept in peace, although these murderers of my men, and their friends, the Uinkarets, were sleeping not 500 yards away. While we were gone to the canyon, the pack train and supplies, enough to make an Indian rich beyond his wildest dreams, were all left in their charge, and were all safe; not even a lump of sugar was pilfered by the children.

That night I slept soundly, even though the killers of my men and their associates, the Uinkarets, were only 500 yards away. While we had gone to the canyon, the pack train and supplies, enough to make any Indian richer than he could ever imagine, were left in their hands, and everything was safe; not even a lump of sugar was taken by the kids.

September 20.--For several days we have been discussing the relative merits of several names for these mountains. The Indians call them Uinkarets, the region of pines, and we adopt the name. The great mountain we call Mount Trumbull, in honor of the senator. To-day the train starts back to the canyon water pocket, while Captain Bishop and

September 20.--For the past few days, we've been talking about the pros and cons of different names for these mountains. The Native Americans refer to them as Uinkarets, meaning the region of pines, and we've decided to use that name. We named the big mountain Mount Trumbull, in honor of the senator. Today, the train is heading back to the canyon water pocket, while Captain Bishop and

324

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

I climb Mount Trumbull. On our way we pass the point that was the last opening to the volcano.

I’m climbing Mount Trumbull. On our way, we pass the spot that was the last opening to the volcano.

It seems but a few years since the last flood of fire swept the valley. Between two rough, conical hills it poured, and ran down the valley to the foot of a mountain standing almost at the lower end, then parted, and ran on either side of the mountain. This last overflow is very plainly marked; there is soil, with trees and grass, to the very edge

It feels like only a few years have passed since the last wave of fire swept through the valley. Between two steep, cone-shaped hills, it surged and flowed down the valley to the base of a mountain situated near the lower end. Then it split and continued on both sides of the mountain. This most recent outpouring is clearly visible; there’s soil, along with trees and grass, right up to the edge.

CAVE LAKE IN KANAB CANYON.

Cave Lake in Kanab Canyon.

of it, on a more ancient bed. The flood was, everywhere on its border, from 10 to 20 feet in height, terminating abruptly and looking like a wall from below. On cooling, it shattered into fragments, but these are still in place and the outlines of streams and waves can be seen. So

of it, on a more ancient bed. The flood was, everywhere on its border, from 10 to 20 feet high, ending abruptly and appearing like a wall from below. Upon cooling, it broke into fragments, but these are still in place and the shapes of streams and waves can be seen. So

THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 325

little time has elapsed since it ran down that the elements have not weathered a soil, and there is scarcely any vegetation on it, but here and there a lichen is found. And yet, so long ago was it poured from the depths, that where ashes and cinders have collected in a few places, some huge cedars have grown. Near the crater the frozen waves of black basalt are rent with deep fissures, transverse to the direction, of the flow. Then we ride through a cedar forest up a long ascent, until we come to cliffs of columnar basalt. Here we tie our horses and prepare for a climb among the columns. Through crevices we work, till at last we are on the mountain, a thousand acres of pine laud spread out before us, gently rising to the other edge. There are two peaks on the mountain. We walk two miles to the foot of the one looking to be the highest, then a long, hard climb to its summit. What a view is before us! A vision of glory! Peaks of lava all around below us. The Vermilion Cliffs to the north, with their splendor of colors; the Pine Valley Mountains to the northwest, clothed in mellow, perspective haze; unnamed mountains to the southwest, towering over canyons bottomless to my peering gaze, like chasms to nadir hell; and away beyond, the San Francisco Mountains, lifting their black heads into the heavens. We find our way down the mountain, reaching the trail made by the pack train just at dusk, and follow it through the dark until we see the camp fire--a welcome sight.

Not much time has passed since it cooled, so the elements haven't eroded the soil, and there's hardly any vegetation, just a few lichens here and there. Yet, it's been so long since it spilled out from the depths that where ashes and cinders have built up in a few spots, some massive cedars have grown. Near the crater, the frozen waves of black basalt are cracked with deep fissures, crossing the flow. Then we ride through a cedar forest up a long slope until we reach the cliffs of columnar basalt. We tie our horses here and get ready to climb among the columns. We push our way through the crevices until we finally reach the top of the mountain, with a thousand acres of pine land spread out before us, gently rising to the other side. There are two peaks on this mountain. We walk two miles to the base of the one that looks the highest, and then we begin a long, tough climb to the summit. What a view awaits us! A breathtaking sight! Lava peaks surround us down below. The Vermilion Cliffs to the north display a stunning array of colors; the Pine Valley Mountains to the northwest, shrouded in a soft, hazy perspective; unnamed mountains to the southwest, towering over canyons that seem bottomless to my curious gaze, like chasms leading to the depths of hell; and far beyond, the San Francisco Mountains, raising their dark summits toward the sky. We make our way down the mountain, finding the path made by the pack train just as dusk falls, and we follow it through the darkness until we see the campfire—a welcome sight.

Two days more, and we are at Pipe Spring; one day, and we are at Kanab. Eight miles above the town is a canyon, on either side of which is a group of lakes. Four of these are in caves where the sun never shines. By the side of one of these I sit, at my feet the crystal waters, of which I may drink at will.

Two more days, and we'll be at Pipe Spring; just one day, and we’ll reach Kanab. Eight miles above the town is a canyon, with a group of lakes on either side. Four of these lakes are in caves where the sunlight never reaches. I’m sitting by one of these, with crystal-clear waters at my feet, ready to drink whenever I want.

326

ANCIENT POTTERY FROM TUSAYAN.

Ancient pottery from Tusayan.

327

CHAPTER XIII.

CHAPTER 13.

OVER THE RIVER.

Across the river.

IT IS our intention to explore a route from Kanab to the Colorado River at the mouth of the Paria, and, if successful in this undertaking, to cross the river and proceed to Tusayan, and ultimately to Santa Fe, New Mexico. We propose to build a flatboat for the purpose of ferrying over the river, and have had the lumber necessary for that purpose hauled from St. George to Kanab. From here to the mouth of the Paria it must be packed on the backs of mules; Captain Bishop and Mr. Graves are to take charge of this work, while with Mr. Hamblin I explore the Kaibab Plateau.

IT IS our intention to look for a path from Kanab to the Colorado River at the Paria's mouth, and if we succeed, to cross the river and head to Tusayan, eventually reaching Santa Fe, New Mexico. We plan to build a flatboat to ferry across the river and have arranged for the necessary lumber to be transported from St. George to Kanab. From here to the mouth of the Paria, it will need to be packed on mules’ backs; Captain Bishop and Mr. Graves will oversee this task, while I explore the Kaibab Plateau with Mr. Hamblin.

September 24--To-day we are ready for the start. The mules are packed and away goes our train of lumber, rations, and camping equipage. The Indian trail is at the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs. Pushing on to the east with Mr. Hamblin for a couple of hours in the early morning, we reach the mouth of a dry canyon, which comes down through the cliffs. Instead of a narrow canyon we find an open valley from one fourth to one half a mile in width. On rare occasions a stream flows down this valley, but now sand dunes stretch across it. On either side there is a wall of vertical rock of orange sandstone, and here and there at the foot of the wall are found springs that afford sweet water.

September 24--Today we're all set to go. The mules are loaded up, and our caravan of lumber, food, and camping gear is heading out. The Indian trail begins at the base of the Vermilion Cliffs. We push east with Mr. Hamblin for a couple of hours in the early morning and arrive at the entrance of a dry canyon that cuts through the cliffs. Instead of a narrow canyon, we discover an open valley about a quarter to half a mile wide. Occasionally, a stream flows through this valley, but right now, sand dunes cover it. On both sides, there are vertical walls of orange sandstone, and here and there, at the base of the walls, springs provide fresh water.

We push our way far up the valley to the foot of the Gray Cliffs, and by a long detour find our way to the summit. Here again we find that wonderful scenery of naked white rocks carved into great round bosses and domes. Looking off to the north we can see vermilion and pink cliffs, crowned with forests, while below us to the south stretch the dunes and red-lands of the Vermilion Cliff region, and far away we can see the opposite wall of the Grand Canyon. In the middle of the

We make our way deep into the valley to the base of the Gray Cliffs, and after a long detour, we reach the top. Once again, we are greeted by the stunning view of bare white rocks shaped into large round peaks and domes. Looking north, we can see red and pink cliffs topped with forests, while to the south, the dunes and red lands of the Vermilion Cliff area extend before us, and far off, we can see the opposite side of the Grand Canyon. In the middle of the

328 8 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

afternoon we descend into the canyon valley and hurriedly ride, down to the mouth of the canyon, then follow the trail of the pack train, for we are to camp with the party to-night. We find it at the Navajo Well. As we approach in the darkness the camp fire is a cheerful sight. The Navajo Well is a pool in the sand, the sands themselves lying in a basin, with naked, smooth rocks all about on which the rains are caught and by which the sand in the basin is filled with water, and by digging into the sand this sweet water is found.

In the afternoon, we head down into the canyon valley and quickly ride to the mouth of the canyon, then follow the path of the pack train because we’re camping with the group tonight. We find them at Navajo Well. As we get closer in the dark, the campfire looks inviting. The Navajo Well is a pool in the sand, surrounded by smooth, bare rocks that catch the rainwater, which fills the sandy basin. By digging into the sand, we can access this fresh water.

September 25.--At sunrise Mr. Hamblin and I part from the train once more, taking with us Chuar, a chief of the Kaibabits, for a trip to the south, for one more view of the Grand Canyon from the summit of the Kaibab Plateau. All day long our way is over red hills, with a bold line of cliffs on our left. A little after noon we reach a great spring, and here we are to camp for the night, for the region beyond us is unknown and we wish to enter it with a good day before us. The Indian goes out to hunt a rabbit for supper, and Hamblin and I climb the cliffs. From an elevation of 1,800 feet above the spring we watch the sun go down and see the sheen on the Vermilion Cliffs and red-lands slowly fade into the gloaming; then we descend to supper.

September 25.--At sunrise, Mr. Hamblin and I leave the train once again, taking Chuar, a chief of the Kaibabits, with us for a trip south to catch another view of the Grand Canyon from the top of the Kaibab Plateau. All day, we travel over red hills with a striking line of cliffs on our left. Shortly after noon, we arrive at a large spring, and we’ll camp here for the night because the area ahead is uncharted, and we want to enter it with a full day ahead of us. The Indian goes out to hunt a rabbit for dinner, while Hamblin and I climb the cliffs. From an elevation of 1,800 feet above the spring, we watch the sun set and see the glow on the Vermilion Cliffs and redlands slowly fade into twilight; then we head down for dinner.

September 26.--Early in the morning we pass up a beautiful valley to the south and turn westward onto a great promontory, from the summit of which the Grand Canyon is in view. Its deep gorge can be seen to the westward for 50 or 60 miles, and to the southeastward we look off into the stupendous chasm, with its marvelous forms and colors.

September 26.--Early in the morning, we travel through a beautiful valley to the south and turn west onto a large promontory. From the top, we can see the Grand Canyon. Its deep gorge stretches west for 50 or 60 miles, and to the southeast, we gaze into the incredible chasm, with its amazing shapes and colors.

Twenty-one years later I read over the notes of that day's experience and the picture of the Grand Canyon from this point is once more before me. I did not know when writing the notes that this was the grandest view that can be obtained of the region from Fremont's Peak to the Gulf of California, but I did realize that the scene before me was awful, sublime, and glorious--awful in profound depths, sublime in massive and strange forms, and glorious in colors. Years later I visited the same spot with my friend Thomas Moran. From this world of wonder he selected a section which was the most interesting to him and painted it. That painting, known as "The Chasm of the Colorado," is in a hall in the Senate wing of the Capitol of the United States. If any

Twenty-one years later, I read through the notes from that day's experience, and the view of the Grand Canyon from this point is once again vivid in my mind. I didn't realize while writing the notes that this was the most breathtaking view you could get of the area from Fremont's Peak to the Gulf of California, but I understood that the scene was incredible—deeply impressive, uniquely shaped, and beautiful in color. Years later, I returned to the same spot with my friend Thomas Moran. From this amazing place, he chose a section that he found most captivating and painted it. That painting, called "The Chasm of the Colorado," is displayed in a hall in the Senate wing of the United States Capitol. If any

329

TUSAYAN FETICHES AND IMPLEMENTS.

Tusayans' charms and tools.

330

TUSAYAN BASKETRY.

Tusayans' Basket Weaving.

OVER THE RIVER. 331

one will look upon that picture, and then realize that it was but a small part of the landscape before us on this memorable 26th day of September, he will understand why I suppress my notes descriptive of the scene. The landscape is too vast, too complex, too grand for verbal description.

One will look at that picture and then realize it was just a small part of the landscape before us on this unforgettable 26th of September. He will understand why I hold back my notes describing the scene. The landscape is too vast, too complex, too grand for words.

We sleep another night by the spring on the summit of the Kaibab, and next day we go around to Point Sublime and then push on to the very verge of the Kaibab, where we can overlook the canyon at the mouth of the Little Colorado. The day is a repetition of the glorious day before, and at night we sleep again at the same spring. In the morning we turn to the northeast and descend from Kaibab to the back of Marble Canyon and cross it at the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs, and find our packers camped at Jacob's Pool, where a spring bursts from the cliff at the summit of a great hill of talus. In the camp we find a score or more of Indians, who have joined us here by previous appointment, as we need their services in crossing the river.

We spend another night by the spring at the top of the Kaibab, and the next day we head over to Point Sublime and then continue to the edge of the Kaibab, where we can look down at the canyon near the Little Colorado River. The day is just like the beautiful day before, and at night we camp again at the same spring. In the morning, we head northeast and descend from Kaibab to the back of Marble Canyon, crossing it at the base of the Vermilion Cliffs, where we find our packers set up at Jacob's Pool, where a spring flows out from the cliff at the top of a large hill of loose rocks. At the camp, we meet about twenty Indians who have come to join us as we hired them in advance to help cross the river.

On the last day of September we follow the Vermilion Cliffs around to the mouth of the Paria. Here the cliffs present a wall of about 2,000 feet in height,--above, orange and vermilion, but below, chocolate, purple, and gray in alternating bands of rainbow brightness. The cliffs are cut with deep side canyons, and the rainbow hills below are destitute of vegetation. At night we camp on the bank of the Colorado River, on the same spot where our boat-party had camped the year before. Leaving the party in charge of Mr. Graves and Mr. Bishop, while they are building a ferryboat, I take some Indians to explore the canyon of the Paria. We find steep walls on either side, but a rather broad, flat plain below, through which the muddy river winds its way over quicksands. This stream we have to cross from time to time, and we find the quicksands treacherous and our horses floundering in the trembling masses.

On the last day of September, we navigate around the Vermilion Cliffs to the entrance of the Paria. Here, the cliffs rise about 2,000 feet high—orange and vermilion at the top, while below, they feature bands of chocolate, purple, and gray in bright rainbow colors. The cliffs are marked by deep side canyons, and the colorful hills below lack any vegetation. At night, we set up camp on the bank of the Colorado River, right at the same spot where our boat party camped the year before. Leaving the group in the care of Mr. Graves and Mr. Bishop while they build a ferryboat, I take some Native Americans to explore the Paria Canyon. We encounter steep walls on either side, but a relatively flat plain below, where the muddy river twists and turns over quicksand. We need to cross this stream periodically, and we discover that the quicksand is deceptive, causing our horses to stumble in the unstable ground.

These broad canyons, or canyon valleys, are carved by the streams in obedience to an interesting law of corrasion. Where the declivity of the stream is great the river corrades, or cuts its bottom deeper and still deeper, ever forming narrow clefts, but when the stream has cut its channel down until the declivity is greatly reduced, it can no longer carry the load of sand with which it is fed, but drops

These wide canyons, or canyon valleys, are shaped by the streams following an intriguing law of erosion. Where the stream's slope is steep, the river erodes its bed deeper and deeper, continuously creating narrow gaps. However, when the stream has carved its path down to the point where the slope is significantly reduced, it can no longer carry the amount of sand it's fed and starts to drop.

332

DANCE PARAPHERNALIA FROM TUSAYAN.

Tucson Dance Gear.

OVER THE RIVER. 333

a part of it on the way. Wherever it drops it in this manner a sand bank is formed. Now the effect of this sand bar is to turn the course of the river against the wall or bank, and as it unloads in one place it cuts in another below and loads itself again; so it unloads itself and forms bars, and loads itself with more material to form bars, and the process of vertical cutting is transformed into a process of lateral cutting. The rate of cutting is greatly increased thereby, but the wear is on the sides and not on the bottom. So long as the declivity of the stream is great, the greater the load of sand carried the greater the rate of vertical cutting; but when the declivity is reduced, so that part of the load is thrown down, vertical cutting is changed to lateral and the rate of corrosion multiplied thereby. Now this broad valley canyon, or "box canyon," as such channels are usually called in the country, has been formed by the stream itself, cutting its channel at first vertically and afterwards laterally, and so a great flood-plain is formed.

A part of it on the way. Wherever it drops, a sandbank is created. The effect of this sandbar is to redirect the river against the wall or bank, and as it deposits material in one spot, it erodes another downstream and gathers more material; so it deposits and forms bars, then takes on more material to create more bars, and the process of vertical cutting shifts to lateral cutting. This greatly increases the rate of cutting, but the erosion occurs on the sides rather than the bottom. As long as the slope of the stream is steep, the heavier the load of sand it carries, the faster the vertical cutting happens; but when the slope decreases and part of the load is deposited, vertical cutting turns into lateral cutting, which multiplies the rate of erosion. Now this broad valley canyon, or "box canyon," as these channels are usually called in the area, has been formed by the stream itself, initially cutting its channel vertically and laterally, leading to the creation of a large floodplain.

For a day we ride up the Paria, and next day return. The party in camp have made good progress. The boat is finished and a part of the camp freight has been transported across the river. The next day the remainder is ferried over and the animals are led across, swimming behind the ferryboat in pairs. Here a bold bluff more than 1,200 feet in height has to be climbed, and the day is spent in getting to its summit. We make a dry camp, that is, without water, except that which has been carried in canteens by the Indians.

For a day, we travel up the Paria and then return the next day. The group at camp has made good progress. The boat is completed and part of the camp supplies have been moved across the river. The following day, the rest is ferried over, and the animals are led across, swimming behind the ferryboat in pairs. Here, we have to climb a steep bluff that rises more than 1,200 feet, and the day is spent reaching its peak. We set up a dry camp, meaning we have no water except what the Indians have brought in canteens.

October 4---All day long we pass by the foot of the Echo Cliffs, which are in fact the continuation of the Vermilion Cliffs. It is still a landscape of rocks, with cliffs and pinnacles and towers and buttes on the left, and deep chasms running down into the Marble Canyon on the right. At night we camp at a water pocket, a pool in a great limestone rock. We still go south for another half day to a cedar ridge; here we turn westward, climbing the cliffs, which we find to be not the edge of an escarpment with a plateau above, but a long narrow ridge which descends on the eastern side to a level only 500 or 600 feet above the trail left below. On the eastern side of the cliff a great homogeneous sandstone stretches, declining rapidly, and on its sides are carved innumerable basins, which are now filled with pure water, and we call this the Thousand Wells. We have a long afternoon's

October 4---All day long we walk by the base of the Echo Cliffs, which are actually the continuation of the Vermilion Cliffs. The landscape is still dominated by rocks, with cliffs, spires, towers, and buttes on our left, and deep gorges leading down into Marble Canyon on our right. At night, we camp at a water pocket—a pool in a large limestone rock. We continue heading south for another half day until we reach a cedar ridge; here, we turn west and climb the cliffs. We discover that these are not the edge of a plateau but a long, narrow ridge that slopes down on the east side to a level just 500 or 600 feet above the trail below. On the eastern side of the cliff, a vast, uniform stretch of sandstone rapidly declines, and countless basins carved into its sides are now filled with clean water, which we've named the Thousand Wells. We have a long afternoon's

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Colorado Canyons.

ride over sand dunes, slowly toiling from mile to mile. We can see a ledge of rocks in the distance, and the Indian with us assures us that we shall find water there. At night we come to the cliff, and under it, in a great cave, we find a lakelet. Sweeter, cooler water never blessed the desert.

ride over sand dunes, slowly moving from mile to mile. We can see a ledge of rocks in the distance, and the Indian with us assures us that we’ll find water there. At night we reach the cliff, and under it, in a large cave, we discover a small lake. Sweeter, cooler water has never blessed the desert.

While at Jacob's Pool, several days before, I sent a runner forward into this region with instructions to hunt us up some of

While at Jacob's Pool a few days ago, I sent someone ahead into this area with orders to find us some of

THE THOUSAND WELLS.

the natives and bring them to this pool. When we arrive we are disappointed in not finding them on hand, but a little later half a dozen men come in with the Indian messenger. They are surly fellows and seem to be displeased at our coming. Before midnight they leave. Under the circumstances I do not feel that it is safe to linger long at this spot; so I do not lie down to rest, but walk the camp among the guards and see that everything is in readiness to move. About two o'clock I set a couple of men to prepare a hasty lunch, call up all hands, and we saddle, pack, eat our lunch, and start off to the southwest to reach

the locals and bring them to this pool. When we arrive, we’re disappointed not to find them there, but a little later, half a dozen men show up with the Indian messenger. They’re grumpy and seem unhappy about our presence. Before midnight, they leave. Given the situation, I don’t think it’s safe to stay here for long; so I don’t lie down to rest, but walk around the camp with the guards to ensure everything is ready to move. About two o'clock, I have a couple of men prepare a quick lunch, gather everyone, and we saddle up, pack our things, eat our lunch, and head off to the southwest to reach

OVER THE RIVER.

335

the Moenkopi, where there is a little ranchería of Indians, a farming settlement belonging to the Oraibis, so we are told. We set out at a rapid rate, and when daylight comes we are in sight of the canyon of the Moenkopi, into which we soon descend; but the ranchería has been abandoned. Up the Moenkopi we pass several miles, in a beautiful canyon valley, until we find a pool in a nook of a cliff, where we feel that we can defend ourselves with certainty, and here we camp for the night. The next day we go on to Oraibi, one of the pueblos of the Province of Tusayan.

the Moenkopi, where there’s a small settlement of Indians, a farming community belonging to the Oraibis, or so we’ve heard. We set off quickly, and when daylight breaks, we can see the Moenkopi canyon, which we soon enter; however, the settlement has been deserted. We travel up the Moenkopi for several miles through a beautiful canyon valley until we discover a pool in a nook of a cliff, where we feel secure and decide to camp for the night. The next day we continue on to Oraibi, one of the pueblos in the Province of Tusayan.

At Tusayan we stop for two weeks and visit the seven pueblos on the cliffs. Oraibi is first reached, then Shumopavi, Shupaulovi, and Mashongnavi, and finally Walpi, Sichumovi, and Hano.

At Tusayan, we spend two weeks visiting the seven pueblos on the cliffs. We first reach Oraibi, then Shumopavi, Shupaulovi, and Mashongnavi, and finally Walpi, Sichumovi, and Hano.

In a street of Oraibi our little party is gathered. Soon a council is called by the cacique, or zchief, and we are assigned to a suite of six or

In a street of Oraibi, our small group is gathered. Soon, a council is called by the cacique, or chief, and we are assigned to a suite of six or

TERRACED HOUSES IN ORAIBI, SHOWING ENTRANCE TO KIVA IN FOREGROUND.

TERRACED HOUSES IN ORAIBI, SHOWING THE ENTRANCE TO THE KIVA IN THE FOREGROUND.

336 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

eight rooms for our quarters. We purchase corn of some of the people, and after feeding our animals they are intrusted to two Indian boys, who, under the direction of the cacique, take them to a distant mesa to herd. This is my first view of an inhabited pueblo, though I have seen many ruins from time to time. At first I am a little disappointed in the people. They seem scarcely superior to the Shoshones and Utes, tribes with whom I am so well acquainted. Their dress is less picturesque, and the men have an ugly fashion of banging their hair in front so that it comes down to their eyes and conceals their foreheads. But the women are more neatly dressed and arrange their hair in picturesque coils.

eight rooms for our quarters. We buy corn from some of the locals, and after feeding our animals, they are entrusted to two Indian boys who, under the guidance of the cacique, take them to a distant mesa to herd. This is my first glimpse of an inhabited pueblo, although I have seen many ruins over time. Initially, I'm a bit disappointed in the people. They don't seem much better than the Shoshones and Utes, tribes I'm well familiar with. Their clothing is less striking, and the men have an unattractive habit of styling their hair so that it hangs down over their eyes and hides their foreheads. However, the women are dressed more neatly and style their hair in attractive coils.

Oraibi is a town of several hundred inhabitants. It stands on a mesa or little plateau 200 or 300 feet above the surrounding plain. The mesa itself has a rather diversified surface. The streets of the town are quite irregular, and in a general way run from north to south. The houses are constructed to face the east. They are of stone laid in mortar, and are usually three or four stories high. The second story stands back upon the first, leaving a terrace over one tier of rooms. The third is set back of the second, and the fourth back of the third; so that their houses are terraced to face the east. These terraces on the top are all flat, and the people usually ascend to the first terrace by a ladder and then by another into the lower rooms. In like manner, ladders or rude stairways are used to reach the upper stories. The climate is very warm and the people live on the tops of their houses. It seems strange to see little naked children climbing the ladders and running over the house tops like herds of monkeys. After we have looked about the town and been gazed upon by the wondering eyes of the men, women, and children, we are at last called to supper. In a large central room we gather and the food is placed before us. A stew of goat's flesh is served in earthen bowls, and each one of us is furnished with a little earthen ladle. The bread is a great novelty to me. It is made of corn meal in sheets as thin and large as foolscap paper. In the corner of the house is a little oven, the top of which is a great flat stone, and the good housewife bakes her bread in this manner: The corn meal is mixed to the consistency of a rather thick gruel, and the woman dips her hand into the mixture and plasters the hot

Oraibi is a town with a few hundred residents. It sits on a mesa or small plateau that's about 200 to 300 feet above the surrounding plain. The mesa has a pretty varied surface. The town's streets are quite irregular and generally run from north to south. The houses face east and are made of stone set in mortar, usually three or four stories high. The second story is set back from the first, creating a terrace over one tier of rooms. The third story is set back from the second, and the fourth is set back from the third, making the houses terraced to face east. The top terraces are all flat, and people usually climb up to the first terrace by a ladder, then go up another ladder to enter the lower rooms. Similarly, ladders or rough stairways are used to get to the upper stories. The climate is very warm, and people live on the tops of their houses. It's a bit odd to see little naked kids climbing the ladders and running across the rooftops like groups of monkeys. After we've explored the town and been watched by the curious eyes of the men, women, and children, we're finally called to dinner. In a large central room, we gather, and food is served. We get a stew made from goat meat in earthen bowls, and each of us has a little earthen ladle. The bread is a big novelty for me; it's made of cornmeal into sheets as thin and large as a piece of paper. In the corner of the house is a small oven, with a large flat stone on top, where the housewife bakes her bread: the cornmeal is mixed to a thick gruel consistency, and she dips her hand into the mixture and spreads it onto the hot stone.

OVER THE RIVER.

Across the river.

337

stone with a thin coating of the meal paste. In a minute or two it forms into a thin paperlike cake, and she takes it up by the edge, folds it once, and places it on a basket tray; then another and another sheet of paper-bread is made in like manner and piled on the tray. I notice that the paste stands in a number of different bowls and that she takes from, one bowl and then another in order, and I soon see the effect of this. The corn before being ground is assorted by colors, white, yellow, red, blue, and black, and the sheets of bread, when made, are of the same variety of colors, white, yellow, red, blue, and black. This bread, held on very beautiful trays, is itself a work of art. They call it

stone with a thin layer of the meal paste. In a minute or two, it forms into a thin, paper-like cake, and she picks it up by the edge, folds it once, and places it on a basket tray. Then, she makes another and another sheet of paper-bread in the same way and stacks them on the tray. I notice that the paste is in several different bowls and that she takes from one bowl and then another in order, and I quickly see the effect of this. The corn, before being ground, is sorted by color: white, yellow, red, blue, and black. The sheets of bread, when made, reflect this variety of colors: white, yellow, red, blue, and black. This bread, displayed on very beautiful trays, is a work of art in itself. They call it

THE HOUSE OF TALTI, CHIEF OF THE COUNCIL IN THE TOWN OF OBAIBI.

THE HOUSE OF TALTI, LEADER OF THE COUNCIL IN THE TOWN OF OBAIBI.

piki. After we have partaken of goat stew and bread a course of dumplings, melons, and peaches is served, and this finishes the feast. What seem to be dumplings are composed of a kind of hash of bread and meat, tied up in little balls with cornhusks and served boiling hot. They are eaten with much gusto by the party and highly praised. Some days after we learned how they are made; they are prepared of goat's flesh, bread, and turnips, and kneaded by mastication. As we prefer to masticate our own food, this dainty dish is never again a favorite.

piki. After we enjoy goat stew and bread, we are served a final course of dumplings, melons, and peaches, which wraps up the feast. The dumplings, which appear to be small balls of bread and meat, are wrapped in cornhusks and served piping hot. Everyone eats them with enthusiasm and gives them high praise. A few days later, we learned how they are made; they consist of goat meat, bread, and turnips, and are prepared through chewing. Since we prefer to chew our own food, this fancy dish never becomes a favorite again.

In the evening the people celebrate our advent by a dance, such it seemed to us, but probably it was one of their regular ceremonies.

In the evening, the people celebrate our arrival with a dance, or at least that's how it seemed to us, but it was probably just one of their regular ceremonies.

338 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

After dark a pretty little fire is built in the chimney corner and I spend the evening in rehearsing to a group of the leading men the story of my travels in the canyon country. Of our journey down the canyon in boats they have already heard, and they listen with great interest to what I say. My talk with them is in the Mexican patois, which several of them understand, and all that I say is interpreted.

After dark, a nice little fire is set up in the corner of the fireplace, and I spend the evening sharing the story of my travels in the canyon country with a group of the leading men. They've already heard about our journey down the canyon in boats, and they listen with great interest to what I have to say. I speak to them in the Mexican dialect, which several of them understand, and everything I say is interpreted.

The next morning we are up at daybreak. Soon we hear loud shouts coming from the top of the house. The cacique is calling his people. Then all the people, men, women, and children, come out on the tops of their houses. Just before sunrise they sprinkle water and meal from beautiful grails; then they all stand with bare heads to watch the rising of the sun. When his full orb is seen, once more they sprinkle the sacred water and the sacred meal over the tops of the houses. Then the cacique in a loud voice directs the labor of the day. So his talk is explained to us. Some must gather corn, others must go for wood, water must be brought from the distant wells, and the animals of the strangers must be cared for. Now the house tops present a lively scene. Bowls of water are brought; from them the men fill their mouths and with dexterity blow water over their hands in spray and wash their faces and lave their long shining heads of hair; and the women dress one another's locks. With bowls of water they make suds of the yucca plant, and wash and comb and deftly roll their hair, the elder women in great coils at the back of the head, the younger women in flat coils on their cheeks. And so the days are passed and the weeks go by, and we study the language of the people and record many hundreds of their words and observe their habits and customs and gain some knowledge of their mythology, but above all do we become interested in their religious ceremonies.

The next morning, we wake up at dawn. Soon, we hear loud shouts coming from the top of the house. The cacique is calling his people. Then all the people—men, women, and children—come out onto the roofs of their houses. Just before sunrise, they sprinkle water and cornmeal from beautiful bowls; then they all stand with their heads bare, watching the sun rise. When the sun is fully visible, they sprinkle the sacred water and cornmeal over the rooftops once again. Then the cacique loudly directs the day's work. His instructions are explained to us. Some must gather corn, others will go for wood, water needs to be collected from the distant wells, and the strangers' animals must be taken care of. Now the rooftops present a lively scene. Bowls of water are brought up; the men fill their mouths and skillfully spray water over their hands, washing their faces and rinsing their long, shiny hair; the women style each other's hair. With bowls of water, they create suds from the yucca plant, washing, combing, and expertly rolling their hair—the older women in large coils at the back of their heads and the younger women in flat coils around their cheeks. And so the days go by, and the weeks pass as we study the people's language, record hundreds of their words, observe their habits and customs, and learn about their mythology, but most of all, we become fascinated with their religious ceremonies.

One afternoon they take me from Oraibi to Shupaulovi to witness a great religious ceremony. It is the invocation to the gods for rain. We arrive about sundown, and are taken into a large subterranean chamber, into which we descend by a ladder. Soon about a dozen Shamans are gathered with us, and the ceremony continues from sunset to sunrise. It is a series of formal invocations, incantations, and sacrifices, especially of holy meal and holy water. The leader of the Shamans is a great burly bald-headed Indian, which is a remarkable

One afternoon, they take me from Oraibi to Shupaulovi to see an important religious ceremony. It's the prayer to the gods for rain. We arrive around sunset and are led into a large underground chamber, which we access by a ladder. Soon, about a dozen shamans join us, and the ceremony runs from sunset to sunrise. It consists of a series of formal prayers, chants, and offerings, particularly of sacred meal and sacred water. The leader of the shamans is a big, burly bald-headed Indian, which is quite striking.

OVER THE RIVER.

Over the river.

339

PRAYING FOR RAIN.

Hoping for rain.

sight, for I have never seen one before. Whatever he says or does is repeated by three others in turn. The paraphernalia of their worship is very interesting. At one end of the chamber is a series of tablets of wood covered with quaint pictures of animals and of corn, and overhead are conventional black clouds from which yellow lightnings are projected, while drops of rain fall on the corn below. Wooden birds, set on pedestals and decorated with plumes, are arranged in various ways. Ears of corn, vases of holy water, and trays of meal make up a part of the paraphernalia of worship. I try to record some of the prayers, but am not very successful, as it is difficult to hold my interpreter to the work. But one of these prayers is something like this:

sight, because I’ve never seen one before. Whatever he says or does is echoed by three others in turn. The stuff they use for their worship is really interesting. At one end of the room, there’s a series of wooden tablets covered with strange pictures of animals and corn, and above them are traditional black clouds from which yellow lightning strikes, while drops of rain fall on the corn below. Wooden birds, placed on pedestals and decorated with feathers, are arranged in different ways. Ears of corn, vases of holy water, and trays of meal are part of their worship items. I try to write down some of the prayers, but I’m not very successful since it’s hard to keep my interpreter focused. But one of these prayers is something like this:

"Muingwa pash lolomai, Master of the Clouds, we eat no stolen bread; our young men ride not the stolen ass; our food is not stolen from

"Muingwa pash lolomai, Master of the Clouds, we don’t eat stolen bread; our young men don’t ride the stolen donkey; our food isn’t taken from”

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COLORADO CANYONS.

the gardens of our neighbors. Muingwa pash lolomai, we beseech of thee to dip your great sprinkler, made of the feathers of the birds of the heavens, into the lakes of the skies and sprinkle us with sweet rains, that the ground may be prepared in the winter for the corn that grows in the summer."

the gardens of our neighbors. Muingwa pash lolomai, we ask you to dip your great sprinkler, made of the feathers of the birds in the sky, into the lakes above and sprinkle us with sweet rains, so the ground may be ready in the winter for the corn that grows in the summer."

At one time in the night three women were brought into the kiva. These women had a cincture of cotton about their loins, but were otherwise nude. One was very old, another of middle age, and the third quite young, perhaps fourteen or fifteen years old. As they stood in a corner of the kiva their faces and bodies were painted by the bald-headed priest. For this purpose he filled his mouth with water and pigment and dexterously blew a fine spray over the faces, necks, shoulders, and breasts of the women. Then with his finger as a brush he decorated them over this groundwork, which was of yellow, with many figures in various colors. From that time to daylight the three women remained in the kiva and took part in the ceremony as choristers and dancing performers.

At one point during the night, three women were brought into the kiva. They wore cotton sashes around their waists but were otherwise nude. One woman was very old, another was middle-aged, and the third was quite young, maybe around fourteen or fifteen years old. As they stood in a corner of the kiva, a bald-headed priest painted their faces and bodies. He filled his mouth with water and pigment, then expertly blew a fine mist over their faces, necks, shoulders, and breasts. Using his finger as a brush, he decorated them on top of the yellow base with various colorful designs. From that time until dawn, the three women stayed in the kiva and participated in the ceremony as singers and dancers.

At sunrise we are filed out of the kiva, and a curious sight is presented to our view. Shupaulovi is built in terraces about a central court, or plaza, and in the plaza about fifty men are drawn up in a line facing us. These men are naked except that they wear masks, strange and grotesque, and great flaring headdresses in many colors.

At sunrise, we are led out of the kiva, and a fascinating scene unfolds before us. Shupaulovi is constructed in terraces surrounding a central courtyard, or plaza, where about fifty men stand in a line facing us. These men are naked except for the strange and grotesque masks they wear and the large, colorful headdresses on their heads.

MASHONGNAVI.

341

TUSAYAN TRAYS.

Tusayen Trays.

342 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

Our party from the kiva stand before this line of men, and the bald-headed priest harangues them in words I cannot understand. Then across the other end of the plaza a line of women is formed, facing the line of men, and at a signal from the old Shaman the drums and the whistles on the terraces, with a great chorus of singers, set up a tumultuous noise, and with slow shuffling steps the line of men and the line of women move toward each other in a curious waving dance. When the lines approach so as to be not more than 10 or 12 feet apart, our party still being between them, they all change so as to dance backward to their original positions. This is repeated until the dancers have passed over the plaza four times. Then there is a wild confusion of dances, the order of which I cannot understand,--if indeed there is any system, except that the men and women dance apart. Soon this is over, and the women all file down the ladder into the kiva and the men strip off their masks and arrange themselves about the plaza, every one according to his own wish, but as if in sharp expectancy; then the women return up the ladder from the kiva and climb to the tops of the houses and stand on the brink of the nearer terrace. Now the music commences once more, and the old woman who was painted in the kiva during the night throws something, I cannot tell what, into the midst of the plaza. With a shout and a scream, every man jumps for it; one seizes it, another takes it away from him, and then another secures it; and with shouts and screams they wrestle and tussle for the charm which the old woman has thrown to them. After a while some one gets permanent possession of the charm and the music ceases. Then another is thrown into the midst. So these contests continue at intervals until high noon.

Our group from the kiva stands in front of this line of men, and the bald-headed priest addresses them in a language I can’t understand. Then, across the other end of the plaza, a line of women forms, facing the men, and at a signal from the old Shaman, the drums and whistles from the terraces, along with a loud chorus of singers, create a cacophony, and with slow, shuffling steps, the men and women's lines move toward each other in a strange, waving dance. When they get within 10 or 12 feet of each other, with our group still in between, they all turn to dance backward to their original positions. This process is repeated until the dancers have crossed the plaza four times. Then, a chaotic mix of dances happens, and I can’t tell if there’s any order, except that the men and women dance separately. Soon, this ends, and the women file down the ladder into the kiva while the men take off their masks and arrange themselves around the plaza, each according to their own choice but as if they’re all on edge; then the women come back up the ladder from the kiva and climb onto the roofs, standing on the edge of the closest terrace. Now the music starts again, and the old woman who was painted in the kiva during the night throws something, I can’t tell what, into the center of the plaza. With a shout and a scream, every man leaps for it; one grabs it, another snatches it away, and then another claims it; with shouts and screams, they wrestle for the charm that the old woman threw to them. After a while, someone gains steady possession of the charm, and the music stops. Then another is tossed into the center. These contests go on at intervals until high noon.

In the evening we return to Oraibi. And now for two days we employ our time in making a collection of the arts of the people of this town. First, we display to them our stock of goods, composed of knives, needles, awls, scissors, paints, dyestuffs, leather, and various fabrics in gay colors. Then we go around among the people and select the articles of pottery, stone implements, instruments and utensils made of bone, horn, shell, articles of clothing and ornament, baskets, trays, and many other things, and tell the people to bring them the next day to our rooms. A little after sunrise they come in, and we have a busy day of

In the evening, we head back to Oraibi. For the next two days, we spend our time collecting the arts of the people in this town. First, we show them our inventory of goods, which includes knives, needles, awls, scissors, paints, dyes, leather, and various brightly colored fabrics. Then we walk around the community to choose pottery, stone tools, instruments and utensils made from bone, horn, and shell, as well as clothing and jewelry, baskets, trays, and many other items, asking the people to bring them to our rooms the next day. Shortly after sunrise, they arrive, and we have a busy day ahead.

343

TUSAYAN MASKETTES.

344

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

barter. When articles are brought in such as I want, I lay them aside. Then if possible I discover the fancy of the one who brings them, and I put by the articles the goods which I am willing to give in exchange for them. Having thus made an offer, I never deviate from it, but leave it to the option of the other party to take either his own articles or mine lying beside them. The barter is carried on with a hearty good will; the people jest and laugh with us and with one another; all are pleased, and there is nothing to mar this day of pleasure. In the afternoon and evening I make an inventory of our purchases, and the next day is spent in packing them for shipment. Some of the things are heavy, and I engage some Indians to help transport the cargo to Fort Wingate, where we can get army transportation.

barter. When items are brought in that I want, I set them aside. Then, if possible, I try to find out what the person who brought them likes, and I put aside the items I’m willing to offer in exchange. After making my offer, I stick to it and let the other person choose between their items or mine next to them. The barter happens with a genuine goodwill; people joke and laugh with us and each other; everyone is happy, and nothing spoils this enjoyable day. In the afternoon and evening, I take stock of our purchases, and the next day is spent packing them for shipping. Some of the items are heavy, so I hire some locals to help transport the cargo to Fort Wingate, where we can get army transport.

October 24-.--To-day we leave Oraibi. We are ready to start in the early morning. The whole town comes to bid us good-by. Before we start they perform some strange ceremony which I cannot understand, but, with invocations to some deity, they sprinkle us, our animals, and our goods with water and with meal. Then there is a time of handshaking and hugging. "Good-by; good-by; good-by!" At last we

October 24-.--Today we leave Oraibi. We're all set to head out in the early morning. The entire town gathers to say goodbye. Before we leave, they do a strange ceremony that I can't quite grasp, but while calling on some deity, they sprinkle us, our animals, and our belongings with water and meal. Then there’s a moment of handshaking and hugging. "Goodbye; goodbye; goodbye!" Finally, we

SICHUMOVI AND HANO.

Sichumovi and Hano.

OVER THE RIVER. 345

start. Our way is to Walpi, by a heavy trail over a sand plain, among the dunes. We arrive a little after noon. Walpi, Sichumovi, and Hano are three little towns on one butte, with but little space between them; the stretch from town to town is hardly large enough for a game of ball. The top of the butte is of naked rock, and it rises from 300 to 400 feet above the sand plains below by a precipitous cliff on every side. To reach it from below, it must be climbed by niches and stairways in the rock. It is a good site for defense. At the foot of the cliff and on some terraces the people have built corrals of stone for their asses. All the water used in these three towns is derived from a well nearly a mile away--a deep pit sunk in the sand, over the site of a dune-buried brook.

start. Our route leads us to Walpi, following a tough trail across a sandy plain, surrounded by dunes. We arrive just after noon. Walpi, Sichumovi, and Hano are three small towns on one butte, with very little space between them; the distance from town to town is barely enough for a game of ball. The top of the butte is bare rock, rising 300 to 400 feet above the sand plains below with steep cliffs on all sides. To get there from below, you have to climb up through niches and stairways in the rock. It's a great location for defense. At the base of the cliff and on some terraces, the people have built stone corrals for their donkeys. All the water used in these three towns comes from a well almost a mile away—a deep pit dug into the sand, located where a brook is buried beneath the dune.

When we arrive the men of Walpi carry our goods, camp equipage, and saddles up the stairway and deposit them in a little court. Then they assign us eight or ten rooms for our quarters. Our animals are once more consigned to the care of Indian herders, and after they are fed they are sent away to a distance of some miles. There is no tree or shrub growing near the Walpi mesa. It is miles away to where the stunted cedars are found, and the people bring curious little loads of wood on the backs of their donkeys, it being a day's work to bring such a cargo. The people have anticipated our coming, and the wood for our use is piled in the chimney corners. After supper the hours till midnight are passed in rather formal talk.

When we arrive, the men of Walpi carry our supplies, camping gear, and saddles up the stairs and drop them in a small courtyard. Then they assign us eight or ten rooms for our stay. Our animals are once again handed over to the care of Indian herders, and after they're fed, they're taken away several miles. There are no trees or bushes growing near the Walpi mesa. The nearest stunted cedars are miles away, and the locals bring curious little loads of wood on the backs of their donkeys, which takes them all day to transport. The people were expecting us, so the wood we need is already stacked in the corners of the chimneys. After dinner, the hours until midnight are spent in pretty formal conversation.

Walpi seems to be a town of about 150 inhabitants, Sichumovi of less than 100, and Hano of not more than 75. Hano, or "Tewa" as it is sometimes called, has been built lately; that is, it cannot be more than 100 or 200 years old. The other towns are very old; their foundation dates back many centuries--so we gather from this talk. The people of Hano also speak a radically distinct language, belonging to another stock of tribes. They formerly lived on the Rio Grande, but during some war they were driven away and were permitted to build their home here.

Walpi is a town with about 150 residents, Sichumovi has fewer than 100, and Hano has no more than 75. Hano, sometimes called "Tewa," is a relatively new settlement, only about 100 to 200 years old. The other towns are much older; their origins go back many centuries, as we learn from discussions about them. The people of Hano also speak a completely different language that belongs to a different group of tribes. They originally lived near the Rio Grande, but during some conflict, they were forced to leave and allowed to establish their home here.

Two days are spent in trading with the people, and we pride ourselves on having made a good ethnologic collection. We are especially interested in seeing the men and women spin and weave. In their courtyards they have deep chambers excavated in the rocks. These chambers,

Two days are spent trading with the people, and we take pride in having built a solid ethnological collection. We are particularly fascinated by watching the men and women spin and weave. In their yards, they have deep chambers dug into the rocks. These chambers,

346

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

which are called kivas, are entered by descending ladders. They are about 18 by 24 feet in size. The kiva is the place of worship, where all their ceremonies are performed, where their cult societies meet to pray for rain and to prepare medicines and charms against fancied and real ailments and to protect themselves by sorcery from the dangers

which are called kivas, are accessed by climbing down ladders. They measure about 18 by 24 feet. The kiva is the worship space, where all their ceremonies take place, where their religious groups gather to pray for rain and to make medicines and charms for both imagined and actual illnesses, and to shield themselves from dangers through magic.

WALPI. A VILLAGE OF TUSAYAN.

Walpi. A village in Tusayan.

of witchcraft. The kivas are also places for general rendezvous, and at night the men and women bring their work and chat and laugh, and in their rude way make the time merry. Many of the tribes of North America have their cult societies, or "medicine orders," as they are sometimes called, but this institution has been nowhere developed more thoroughly than among the pueblo Indians of this region. I am informed that there are a great number in Tusayan, that a part of their ceremonies are secret and another part public, and that the times of ceremony are also times for feasting and athletic sports.

of witchcraft. The kivas are also places for general gatherings, and at night, the men and women bring their work, chat, and laugh, making the time enjoyable in their own way. Many tribes in North America have their cult societies, or "medicine orders," as they are sometimes called, but this institution has been nowhere developed more thoroughly than among the pueblo Indians of this region. I have been told that there are many in Tusayan, that some of their ceremonies are secret while others are public, and that the ceremonial times are also times for feasting and athletic competitions.

Here at Walpi the great snake dance is performed. For several days

Here at Walpi, they perform the great snake dance. For several days

OVER THE RIVER. 347

before this festival is held the people with great diligence gather snakes from the rocks and sands of the region round about and bring them to the kiva of one of their clans in great numbers, by scores and hundreds. Most of these snakes are quite harmless, but rattlesnakes abound, and they are also caught, for they play the most important role in the great snake dance. The medicine men, or priest doctors, are very deft in the management of rattlesnakes. When they bring them to the kiva they herd all the snakes in a great mass of writhing, hissing, rattling serpents. For this purpose they have little wands, to the end of each one of which a bunch of feathers is affixed. If a snake attempts to leave its allotted place in the kiva the medicine man brushes it or tickles it with the feather-armed wand, and the snake turns again to commingle with its fellows. After many strange and rather wearisome ceremonies, with dancing and invocations and ululations, the men of the order prepare for the great performance with the snakes. Clothed only in loincloth, each one seizes a snake, and a rattlesnake is preferred if there are enough of them for all. It is managed in this way: The snake is teased with the feather wand and his attention occupied by one man, while another, standing near, at a favorable moment seizes the snake just, back of the head. Then he puts the snake in his mouth, holding it across, so that the head protrudes on one side and the body on the other, which coils about his hand and arm. A few inches of the head and neck are free, and with this free portion the snake struggles, squirming in the air; but the attention of the snake is constantly occupied by the attendant who carries the wand. Then the men of the priest order carrying the snakes in their mouths arrange themselves in a line in the court and move in a procession several times about the court, and then engage in a dance. After the ceremony all of the snakes are carried to the plain and given their freedom.

Before this festival takes place, the people diligently gather snakes from the rocks and sands in the surrounding area and bring them to the kiva of one of their clans in large numbers, sometimes by the dozens or hundreds. Most of these snakes are harmless, but there are plenty of rattlesnakes, which are also collected because they play a crucial role in the great snake dance. The medicine men, or priest doctors, are skilled at handling rattlesnakes. When they bring them to the kiva, they gather all the snakes into a mass of writhing, hissing, rattling serpents. For this, they use small wands, each with a bunch of feathers attached to the end. If a snake tries to leave its designated spot in the kiva, the medicine man will brush or tickle it with the feathered wand, causing the snake to return to join its companions. After many strange and somewhat tedious ceremonies, involving dancing, invocations, and chants, the men of the order prepare for the grand performance with the snakes. Dressed only in loincloths, each man takes hold of a snake, preferably a rattlesnake if there are enough available. The process goes like this: one man distracts the snake with the feather wand while another, standing close by, seizes the snake just behind its head at the right moment. Then he puts the snake in his mouth, holding it sideways so the head sticks out on one side and the body coils around his hand and arm. A few inches of the head and neck remain free, allowing the snake to struggle as it writhes in the air; meanwhile, the snake's focus is kept by the attendant with the wand. The men of the priest order, carrying the snakes in their mouths, then line up in the courtyard and move in procession several times around the area before engaging in a dance. After the ceremony, all the snakes are taken to the plains and released back into the wild.

This snake dance was not witnessed at the time of the first visit, but an account of it was then obtained, such as given above. It has since been witnessed by myself and by others, and carefully prepared accounts of the ceremonies have been published by different persons.

This snake dance wasn't seen during the initial visit, but a description of it was gathered at that time, as noted above. Since then, I've seen it myself along with others, and detailed reports of the ceremonies have been published by various individuals.

At last our work at Walpi is done, on October 27, and we arrange to leave on the morrow.

At last, we're done with our work at Walpi on October 27, and we plan to leave tomorrow.

348

TUSAYAN BASKETRY.

Tusayen Weaving.

349

TUSAYAN BASKETRY.

Tusayen Basket Making.

350

ZUÑÍ FROM HOUSETOPS, LOOKING EAST.

Zuni from rooftops, facing east.

351

CHAPTER XIV.

CHAPTER 14.

TO ZUÑI.

TO ZUNI.

OCTOBER 28.--To-day we leave the Province of Tusayan for a journey through the Navajo country. There is quite an addition to the party now, for we have a number of Indians employed as freighters. Their asses are loaded with heavy packs of the collections we have made in the various towns of Tusayan. After a while we enter a beautiful canyon coming down from the east, and by noon reach a spring, where we halt for refreshment. The poor little donkeys are thoroughly wearied, but our own animals have had a long rest and have been well fed and are all fresh and active. On the rocks of this canyon picture-writings are etched, and I try to get some account of them from the Indians, but fail.

OCTOBER 28.--Today we’re leaving the Province of Tusayan for a journey through the Navajo territory. Our group has grown quite a bit, as we’ve hired several Native Americans to help carry our loads. Their donkeys are packed with the heavy collections we gathered in various towns in Tusayan. After some time, we enter a stunning canyon coming from the east, and by noon we arrive at a spring where we stop for a break. The poor little donkeys are completely exhausted, but our own animals have had plenty of rest and are well-fed, so they’re all lively and ready to go. On the rocks in this canyon, there are ancient drawings, and I try to learn more about them from the Native Americans, but I’m unsuccessful.

After lunch we start once more. It is a halcyon day, and with a companion I leave the train and push on for a view of the country. Away we gallop, my Indian companion and I, over the country toward a great plateau which we can see in the distance. The Salahkai is covered with a beautiful forest. We have an exhilarating ride. When the way becomes stony and rough we must walk our horses. My Indian, who is well mounted on a beautiful bay, is a famous rider. About his brow a kerchief is tied, and his long hair rests on his back. He has keen black eyes and a beaked nose; about his neck he wears several dozen strings of beads, made of nacre shining shells, and little tablets of turkis are perforated and strung on sinew cord; in his ears he has silver rings, and his wrists are covered with silver bracelets. His leggings are black velvet, the material for which he has bought from some trader; his moccasins are tan-colored and decorated with silver ornaments, and the trappings of his horse are decorated in like manner. He carries his rifle with as much ease as if it were a cane, and rides with wonderful

After lunch, we set off again. It’s a beautiful day, and with a friend, I leave the train and head out to see the countryside. My Indian companion and I ride quickly toward a large plateau we can see in the distance. The Salahkai is surrounded by a stunning forest. We have an exciting ride. When the path gets rocky and uneven, we have to walk our horses. My Indian friend, who rides a gorgeous bay horse, is an excellent rider. He has a kerchief tied around his head, and his long hair falls down his back. His sharp black eyes and prominent nose stand out; he wears several dozen strings of beads made of shiny nacre shells, and little turquoise tablets strung together with sinew cord around his neck. He has silver rings in his ears and silver bracelets covering his wrists. His leggings are made of black velvet, sourced from some trader, and his tan-colored moccasins are decorated with silver ornaments that match his horse's gear. He carries his rifle as casually as if it were a cane and rides with incredible skill.

352

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

dexterity. We get on with jargon and sign language pretty well. At night, after a long ride, I descend to the foot of the mesa, and near a little lake I find the camp. The donkey train has not arrived, but soon one after another the Indians come in with their packs, and with white men, Oraibi Indians, Walpi Indians, and Navajos, a good party is assembled.

dexterity. We manage with jargon and sign language pretty well. At night, after a long ride, I come down to the base of the mesa, and near a small lake I find the camp. The donkey train hasn’t arrived yet, but soon one after another the Indians show up with their packs, and with the white men, Oraibi Indians, Walpi Indians, and Navajos, a good group is gathered.

October 29.--We have a long ride before us to-day, for we must reach old Fort Defiance. I stay with the train in order to keep everything moving, for we expect to travel late in the night. On the way no water is found, but in mid-afternoon the trail leads to the brink of a canyon, and the Indians tell me there is water below; so the animals are unpacked and taken down the cliff in a winding way among the rocks, where they are supplied with water. Again we start; night comes on and we are still in the forest; the trail is good, yet we make slow progress, for some of the animals are weary and we have to wait from time to time for the stragglers. About ten o'clock we descend from the plateau to the canyon beneath and are at old Port Defiance, and the officers at the agency give us a hearty greeting.

October 29.-- We have a long ride ahead of us today because we need to reach old Fort Defiance. I’m staying with the train to keep everything moving since we expect to travel late into the night. There’s no water along the way, but in the afternoon, the trail takes us to the edge of a canyon, and the Indians tell me there’s water below. So, we unpack the animals and lead them down the cliff along a winding path among the rocks where they can drink. We start off again; night falls and we’re still in the forest. The trail is decent, but our progress is slow because some of the animals are tired, and we have to pause occasionally for the laggards. Around ten o'clock, we descend from the plateau into the canyon below and finally arrive at old Fort Defiance, where the officers at the agency greet us warmly.

NAVAJO INDIAN WITH SILVER ORNAMENTS.

Navajo person with silver jewelry.

TO ZUÑI.

TO ZUNI.

353

BRINGING DOWN THE BATTEN.

Lowering the batten.

We spend the 30th of October at the agency and see thousands of Indians, for they are gathered to receive rations and annuities. It is a wild spectacle; groups of Indians are gambling, there are several horse races, and everywhere there is feasting. At night the revelry is increased; great fires are lighted, and groups of Indians are seen scattered about the plains.

We spend October 30th at the agency and see thousands of Native Americans, as they’ve come to get their rations and payments. It’s a crazy scene; some groups are gambling, there are multiple horse races, and there’s feasting all around. At night, the celebrations get even bigger; huge fires are lit, and we see groups of Native Americans spread out across the plains.

November 1.--After a short day's ride we camp at Rock Spring. A fountain gushes from the foot of the mesa. Then another day's ride

November 1.--After a short day's ride, we set up camp at Rock Spring. A fountain flows from the base of the mesa. Then another day's ride.

354

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

through a land of beauty. On the left there is a line of cliffs, like the Vermilion Cliffs of Utah. In the same red sandstones and on the top of the cliff the Kaibab scenery is duplicated. A great tower on the cliff is known as "Navajo Church." Early in the afternoon we are at Fort Wingate and in civilization once more. The fort is on a beauti-

through a land of beauty. On the left, there is a line of cliffs, similar to the Vermilion Cliffs of Utah. In the same red sandstones, the Kaibab scenery is reflected at the top of the cliff. A large tower on the cliff is known as "Navajo Church." Early in the afternoon, we arrive at Fort Wingate and are back in civilization once more. The fort is situated on a beautiful-

NAVAJO CHURCH, NEAR FORT WINGATE.

Navajo Church, near Fort Wingate.

TO ZUÑÍ

355

ful site at the foot of the Zuñi Plateau. And now our journey with the pack train is ended, and I bid good-by to my Indian friends. My own pack train is to go back to Utah, while from Fort Wingate I expect to go to Santa Fe in an ambulance. But the region about is of interest for its wonderful geologic structure and for the many ruins of ancient pueblos found in the neighborhood. On the 2d of November Captain Johnson, an artillery officer, takes me for a ride among the ruins. Many of these ancient structures are found, but those which are of the most interest are the round towers. Nothing remains of these but the bare walls. They average from 18 to 20 feet in diameter, and are usually two or three stories high. Probably they were built as places of worship.

full site at the base of the Zuñi Plateau. And now our journey with the pack train is over, and I'm saying goodbye to my Indian friends. My pack train is heading back to Utah, while I plan to go to Santa Fe from Fort Wingate in an ambulance. But the surrounding area is fascinating for its incredible geological features and the many ruins of ancient pueblos nearby. On November 2nd, Captain Johnson, an artillery officer, takes me for a ride through the ruins. There are many of these ancient structures, but the ones that stand out the most are the round towers. All that’s left of them are the bare walls. They’re about 18 to 20 feet in diameter and usually two or three stories tall. They likely served as places of worship.

Above Fort Wingate there is a great plateau; below, there stretches a vast desert plain with mesas and buttes. The ruins are at the foot of the plateau where the streams come down from the pine-clad heights.

Above Fort Wingate, there's a huge plateau; below, a wide desert plain spreads out with mesas and buttes. The ruins are at the base of the plateau, where the streams flow down from the pine-covered heights.

On the 3d of November with a party of officers I visit Zuñí in an ambulance. The journey is 40 miles, along the foot of the plateau half the way, and then we turn into the desert valley, in the midst of which runs the Zuñi River, sometimes in canyons cut in black lava. Zuñí is a town much like those already visited, except that it is a little larger. Nothing can be more repulsive than the appearance of the streets; irregular, crowded, and filthy, in which dogs, asses, and Indians are mingled in confusion. In the distance Toyalone is seen, a great butte on which an extensive ruin is found, the more ancient home of

On November 3rd, I traveled to Zuñí with a group of officers in an ambulance. The trip is 40 miles, starting along the base of the plateau for half the distance, then we head into the desert valley, where the Zuñi River flows, sometimes through canyons carved into black lava. Zuñí is a town quite similar to those we've visited before, but it's a bit larger. The streets have an extremely off-putting appearance; they are irregular, overcrowded, and dirty, filled with dogs, donkeys, and Indigenous people all mixed together. In the distance, you can see Toyalone, a large butte that has extensive ruins on it, the ancient home of

ROUND TOWER ON A ROCK.

Tower on a rock.

356

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

these people, though Zuñi itself appears to be hundreds of years old. The people speak a language radically different from that of Tusayan, and no other tribe in the United States has a tongue related to it.

these people, even though Zuñi itself seems to be hundreds of years old. The people speak a language that is completely different from that of Tusayan, and no other tribe in the United States has a language related to it.

In the midst of the town there is an old Spanish church, partly in ruins, but it is still graced with the wooden image of a saint, gayly colored; and the old tongueless bell remains, for it was sounded with a stone hammer held in the hand of the bellman; the marks of his blows are deeply indented in the metal. Alvar Nuñez Caveza de Vaca was the first white man to see Zuñi, when he wandered in that long journey from Florida around by the headwaters of the Arkansas, through what is now New Mexico and Arizona, southward to the City of Mexico. He had with him a Barbary negro, who was killed by the Zuñi, and his burial place is still pointed out.

In the center of town, there's an old Spanish church that’s partially in ruins, but it still features a brightly colored wooden statue of a saint. The ancient, silent bell remains, which was rung with a stone hammer held by the bell ringer; the marks from his strikes are deeply indented in the metal. Alvar Nuñez Cabeza de Vaca was the first white man to see Zuñi when he traveled a long way from Florida around the headwaters of the Arkansas, through what is now New Mexico and Arizona, heading south to Mexico City. He had a Barbary African slave with him, who was killed by the Zuñi, and his burial site is still pointed out.

Among the Zuñi, as among the tribes of Tusayan, the form of government which prevails throughout the North American tribes is well illustrated. Kinship is the tie by which the members of the tribe are bound together as a common body of people. Each tribe is divided into a series of clans, and a clan is a group of people that reckon kinship through the family line. The children therefore belong to the clan of the

Among the Zuñi, just like among the tribes of Tusayan, the type of government seen across North American tribes is clearly shown. Kinship is the connection that keeps the tribe members united as a community. Each tribe is split into several clans, and a clan is a group of individuals who trace their kinship through their family line. Therefore, the children belong to the clan of the

TOYALONE, FROM THE TOP OF A HOUSE IN ZUÑÍ.

TOYALONE, FROM THE ROOF OF A HOUSE IN ZUÑÍ.

357

TO ZUÑI.

357

TYPICAL TERRACED COMMUNAL PUEBLO.

Typical terraced community pueblo.

mother. Marriage is always without the clan; the husband and father must belong to a different clan from the mother and children, and the children belong to their mother and are governed by her brothers, or by her mother's brothers if they be still living. The husband is but the guest of the wife and the clan, and has no other authority in the family than that acquired by personal character. If he is an able and wise man his advice may be taken, but each clan is very jealous of its rights, and the members do not submit to dictation from the guest husband. The woman is¹ not the ruler of the clan; the ruler is the patriarch or elder man, or if he is not a man of ability a younger and more able man is chosen, who by legal fiction is recognized as the elder. Over the officers of the clan are the officers of the tribe,--a chief with assistant chiefs. The organization by tribal governors varies from tribe to tribe. Sometimes the chieftaincy is hereditary in a particular clan, but more often the chieftaincy is elective. There is very little personal property among the tribal people, such property being confined to clothing, ornaments, and a few inconsiderable articles. The ownership of the great bulk of the property inheres in the clan, such as their

mother. Marriage always happens outside the clan; the husband and father must belong to a different clan from the mother and children, and the children belong to their mother and are overseen by her brothers, or by her mother's brothers if they are still alive. The husband is merely a guest of the wife and the clan, having no authority in the family other than what he earns through his own character. If he is capable and wise, his advice may be valued, but each clan is very protective of its rights, and its members do not take orders from the guest husband. The woman is¹ not the leader of the clan; that role belongs to the patriarch or elder man, or, if he lacks ability, a younger and more capable man is chosen and recognized as the elder by legal fiction. The officers of the clan are overseen by the officers of the tribe—a chief and assistant chiefs. The system of tribal governance varies from tribe to tribe. Sometimes the chieftaincy is passed down within a particular clan, but more often it is elected. There is very little personal property among the tribal people; such possessions are limited to clothing, jewelry, and a few insignificant items. Most of the property belongs to the clan, such as their

358

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

houses, their patches of land, the food raised from the soil, and the game caught in the chase. Sometimes the clans are grouped, two or more constituting a phratry, and then there are other officers or chiefs standing between the clan and tribal authority. Again, tribes are sometimes organized into confederacies, and a grand confederate chief recognized. In addition to the chieftaincy of confederate tribes, phratries, and clans, there are councils; but these are not councils of legislation in the ordinary sense. The councils are clans whose decisions become a precedent. Tribal law is therefore court-made law, and such customary law grows out of the exigencies which daily life presents to the people. The problems as they arise are solved as best they may be, and the deliberations of the councils look not to the future but only to the present, and are invoked to settle controversy, that peace may be maintained. Of course there is no written constitution or body of laws, but there are traditional regulations which are well preserved in the idioms of oral speech, every rule of procedure or of justice being sooner or later coined into an aphorism.

houses, their patches of land, the food grown from the soil, and the game caught in the hunt. Sometimes the clans are grouped together, with two or more making up a phratry, and then there are other leaders or chiefs standing between the clan and tribal authority. Additionally, tribes can sometimes be organized into confederacies, with a grand confederate chief recognized. Besides the chieftaincy of confederate tribes, phratries, and clans, there are councils; however, these are not councils of legislation in the usual sense. The councils consist of clans whose decisions set a precedent. Tribal law is therefore created by the courts, and this customary law emerges from the challenges that everyday life presents to the people. The problems that arise are resolved as best as possible, and the councils' discussions focus not on the future but only on the present, and are called upon to resolve disputes, so that peace can be maintained. Of course, there is no written constitution or body of laws, but there are traditional rules that are well preserved in the language of oral speech, with every rule of procedure or justice eventually being turned into an aphorism.

It has been seen that a clan is a body of kinship in the female line; but the members of the different clans are related to one another by intermarriage. Thus the first tie is by affinity; but, as fathers belong to other clans than the children, the tie is also by consanguinity. Thus the entire tribe is a body of kindred, and the tribal organization is a fabric with warp of streams of blood and

It has been observed that a clan is a group of relatives connected through the female line; however, the members of different clans are related to each other through intermarriage. Therefore, the primary bond is by affinity; but since fathers belong to clans different from their children, the connection also includes consanguinity. In this way, the whole tribe is a network of relatives, and the tribal organization is a structure woven with lines of blood and

DANCER HOLDING UP THE GREAT PLUMED ARROW.

TO ZUÑI.

TO ZUNI.

359

woof of marriage ties. When different tribes unite to form a confederacy for offensive or defensive purposes, artificial kinship is established. One tribe perhaps is recognized as the grandfather tribe, another is the father tribe, a third is the elder-brother tribe, a fourth is the younger-brother tribe, etc. In these artificial kinships the members of one tribe address the members of another tribe by kinship terms established in the treaty. Strangers are sometimes adopted into a clan, and this gives them a status in the tribe. The adoption is usually accomplished by the woman claiming the individual as her youngest son or daughter, and such adopted person has thereupon the status belonging to such a natural child; and, though he be an adult, he calls the child born into the clan before his advent, though it be but a year old, his elder brother or his elder sister. Then often young men are advanced in the clan because of superior ability, and this is done by giving them a kinship rank higher than that belonging to their real age; so that it is not infrequently found that old men address young men as their elder brothers and yield to their authority. The ties of the tribe are kinship, and authority inheres in superior age; but in order to adjust these rules so that the abler men may be given control, artificial kinship and artificial age are established. The civil chiefs direct the daily life of the people in their labors.

The bonds of marriage. When different tribes come together to form a confederation for attacking or defending, they create artificial kinship. One tribe may be seen as the grandfather tribe, another as the father tribe, a third as the elder brother tribe, and a fourth as the younger brother tribe, etc. In these artificial kinships, members of one tribe refer to members of another tribe using family terms defined in the agreement. Strangers are sometimes adopted into a clan, granting them status within the tribe. This adoption often happens when a woman claims the individual as her youngest son or daughter, giving that person the same status as a natural child; even if they are an adult, they will refer to children born into the clan before their arrival, even if they are only a year old, as their elder brother or sister. Additionally, young men can be elevated within the clan based on their skills, receiving a kinship rank higher than what their actual age would suggest. Hence, it’s common for older men to address younger men as their elder brothers and defer to their authority. The relationships in the tribe are based on kinship, with authority linked to age; however, to ensure that the most capable individuals are allowed to take control, artificial kinship and age are created. The civil chiefs oversee the daily lives of the people in their work.

DANCER "SWALLOWING" THE GREAT PLUMED ARROW.

360

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Colorado Canyons.

NAVAJO WOMAN WEAVING A BELT.

Navajo woman weaving a belt.

To the civil organization of the tribe, as thus indicated, there is added a military organization, and war chiefs are selected. But usually these war chiefs are something more than war chiefs, for they also constitute a constabulary to preserve peace and mete out punishment; and young men from the various clans are designated as warriors

To the tribe's civil organization, as mentioned, a military structure is also added, and war chiefs are chosen. However, these war chiefs often have more responsibilities than just leading in battle; they also serve as a police force to maintain peace and enforce justice. Additionally, young men from different clans are appointed as warriors.

361

TO ZUÑI. 361

and advanced in military rank according to merit. There is thus a brotherhood of warriors, and every man in this brotherhood recognizes all others of the group as being elder or younger, and so assumes or

and advanced in military rank based on merit. There's a brotherhood of warriors, and every man in this brotherhood acknowledges all others in the group as either older or younger, and so takes on or

NAVAJO WOMAN SPINNING.

Navajo woman weaving.

362

A ROOM IN A ZUÑI HOUSE.

TO ZUÑI. 363

yields authority in all matters pertaining to war and the enforcement of criminal law.

yields authority in all matters related to war and the enforcement of criminal law.

In addition to the secular government there is always a cult government. In every tribe there are Shamans, designated variously by white men as "medicine men," "priests," "priest doctors," "theurgists," etc. In many tribes, perhaps in all, the people are organized into Shamanistic societies; but that these societies are invariably recognized is not certain. The Shamans are always found. Among the Zuñi there are thirteen of these cult societies. The purpose of Shamanistic institutions is to control the conduct of the members of the tribe in relation to mythic personages, the mysterious beings in which the savage men believe. In the mind of the savage the world is peopled by a host of mythic beings, anthropomorphic and zoomorphic. The difference between man and brute recognized in civilization, is unrecognized in savagery. All animal life is wonderful and magical co sylvan man. Wisdom, cunning, skill, and prowess are attributed to the real animals to a degree often greater than to man; and there are mythic animals as well as mythic men--monsters dwelling in the mountains and caves or hiding in the waters, who make themselves invisible as they pass over the land. Not only are there great monsters, beasts, and reptiles in their mythology, but there are wonderful insects and worms. All life is miraculous and is worshiped as divine. The heavenly bodies, the sun and moon and stars, are mythic animals, and all of the phenomena of nature are attributed to these zoic beings. For example, the Indian knows nothing of the ambient air. The wind is the breath of some beast, or it is a fanning which rises from under the wings of a mythic bird. All the phenomena of nature, the rising and setting of the sun, the waxing and waning of the moon, the shining of the stars, the coming of comets, the flash of meteors, the change of seasons, the gathering and vanishing of the clouds, the blowing of the winds, the falling of the rain, the spreading of the snow, and all other phenomena of physical nature, are held to be the acts of these wonderful zoic deities. It is deemed of prime importance that such deities should be induced to act in the interest of men. Thus it is that Shamanistic government is held to be of as great importance as tribal government, and the Shamans are the peers of the chiefs. With some tribes the cult socie-

In addition to the secular government, there is always a cult government. In every tribe, there are Shamans, variously referred to by outsiders as "medicine men," "priests," "priest doctors," "theurgists," and so on. In many tribes, possibly all, people are organized into Shamanistic societies; however, it is unclear if these societies are always recognized. The Shamans are always present. Among the Zuñi, there are thirteen of these cult societies. The aim of Shamanistic institutions is to guide the behavior of tribe members in relation to mythic figures, the mysterious beings in which these individuals believe. In the mind of the tribal person, the world is filled with a variety of mythic beings, both human-like and animal-like. The distinction between human and animal recognized in civilization is not acknowledged in tribal life. All animal life is considered extraordinary and magical to these people. Traits like wisdom, cunning, skill, and strength are often attributed to real animals even more than to humans; mythic animals, as well as mythic humans, exist—monsters that live in mountains and caves or hide in water, becoming invisible as they move across the land. Their mythology includes not only great monsters, beasts, and reptiles but also fascinating insects and worms. Life itself is seen as miraculous and is revered as divine. Celestial bodies, such as the sun, moon, and stars, are seen as mythic animals, and all natural phenomena are attributed to these zoic beings. For instance, the tribal person knows nothing of the atmosphere. The wind is either the breath of some creature or a breeze generated from beneath the wings of a mythic bird. Every aspect of nature—the sunrise and sunset, the phases of the moon, the twinkling of stars, the appearance of comets, the streaks of meteors, the changing of seasons, the gathering and dissipating of clouds, the blowing of winds, the falling rain, the spreading snow, and all other physical phenomena—is believed to be the actions of these wondrous zoic deities. It is considered extremely important to encourage these deities to act in favor of humans. Thus, Shamanistic governance is viewed as being just as significant as tribal governance, and the Shamans are regarded as equals to the chiefs. With some tribes, the cult societies

364 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

ties have greater powers than the clan; with other tribes clan government is the more important; but always there is a conflict of authority, and there is a perpetual war between Shamanistic and civil government.

ties have greater powers than the clan; with other tribes, clan government is the more important; but there is always a conflict of authority, and there is a constant struggle between Shamanistic and civil government.

These Shamans and cult societies have a great variety of functions to perform. All disease and all injuries are attributed to mythic beings or to witchcraft, and on these pathologic ideas the medicine practices of the people are based. The medicine men are sorcerers, who work wonders in discovering witchcraft and averting its effects or in discovering the disease-making animals and overcoming their power. So the Shamans and the cult societies are the possessors of medicine and ceremonies designed to prevent and cure human ailments. They also have charge of the ceremonies necessary to avert disaster and to secure success in all the affairs of life in peace and war; and they prescribe methods and observances and furnish charms and amulets, and in every way possible control human conduct in its relation to the unknown. No small part of savage life is devoted to cult ceremonies and observances. The hunter cannot penetrate the forest without his charm; the woman cannot plant corn until a ceremony is performed for securing the blessings of some divine being. Religious festivals and ceremonies are carried on for days and weeks. A war must be submitted to the gods, and a sneeze demands a prayer.

These shamans and cult societies have a wide range of roles to fulfill. All illnesses and injuries are blamed on mythical beings or witchcraft, and these beliefs form the basis of the people's healing practices. The medicine men are sorcerers who perform amazing feats in identifying witchcraft, countering its effects, discovering the animals that cause disease, and overcoming their power. Thus, the shamans and cult societies hold the knowledge of medicine and rituals meant to prevent and heal human suffering. They also oversee the ceremonies needed to avoid disaster and ensure success in all aspects of life, both peaceful and combative; they recommend methods, rituals, and provide charms and amulets, seeking to influence human behavior in relation to the unknown. A significant portion of tribal life is dedicated to cult rituals and practices. A hunter can't enter the forest without a charm; a woman can’t plant corn until a ceremony is held to garner the blessings of a divine entity. Religious festivals and rituals can take days or weeks to complete. A war must be presented to the gods, and even a sneeze calls for a prayer.

Our arrival at Fort Wingate practically ended the exploration of the great valley of the Colorado. This was in 1870. In 1891 we can look back upon the completion of the survey of all of that region, for it has now been carefully mapped. The geology of the country has been studied, and the tribes which inhabit it have been subjects of careful research. This work has been carried on by a large corps of men, and interesting results have accrued.

Our arrival at Fort Wingate basically wrapped up the exploration of the great Colorado valley. This was in 1870. By 1891, we can look back on the completion of the survey of the entire area, which has now been thoroughly mapped. The geology of the region has been examined, and the tribes that live there have been the focus of detailed research. This work has been carried out by a large group of people, and interesting findings have come out of it.

365

ASHTISHKEE, A NAVAJO CHIEF.

Ashtishkee, a Navajo chief.

366

NAVAJO MEDICINE LODGE, VIEWED FROM THE SOUTH.

NAVAJO MEDICINE LODGE, SEEN FROM THE SOUTH.

367

NAVAJO MEDICINE LODGE, VIEWED FROM THE EAST.

NAVAJO MEDICINE LODGE, SEEN FROM THE EAST.

368

NAVAJO FIRE DANCE.

Navajo Fire Dance.

369

WORKSHOP OF NAVAJO SILVERSMITH.

Navajo Silversmith Workshop.

370

ZUÑÍ WOMAN WEAVING A BELT.

Zuni woman weaving a belt.

371

WEAVING OF DIAMOND-SHAPED DIAGONALS.

Diamond-shaped diagonal weaving.

372

ZUÑI FETICHES.

Zuni charms.

373

EFFIGY POTTERY FROM ZUÑI.

Zuni Effigy Pottery.

374

ZUÑÍ POTTERY.

Zuni Pottery.

375

ZUÑÍ GRAILS.

Zuni Grails.

376

CULINARY POTTERY FROM ZUÑI.

Zuni Culinary Pottery.

377

NAVAJO FABRICS.

Navajo textiles.

378

THE GRAND CANYON.

379

CHAPTER XV.

CHAPTER 15.

THE GRAND CANYON.

THE Grand Canyon is a gorge 217 miles in length, through which flows a great river with many storm-born tributaries. It has a winding way, as rivers are wont to have. Its banks are vast structures of adamant, piled up in forms rarely seen in the mountains.

THE Grand Canyon is a gorge 217 miles long, through which flows a large river with many storm-fed tributaries. It follows a winding path, as rivers typically do. Its banks are immense formations of solid rock, arranged in shapes that are rarely seen in mountains.

Down by the river the walls are composed of black gneiss, slates, and schists, all greatly implicated and traversed by dikes of granite. Let this formation be called the black gneiss. It is usually about 800 feet in thickness.

Down by the river, the walls are made up of black gneiss, slate, and schist, all mixed together and intersected by granite dikes. Let's call this formation black gneiss. It’s typically around 800 feet thick.

Then over the black gneiss are found 800 feet of quartzites, usually in very thin beds of many colors, but exceedingly hard, and ringing under the hammer like phonolite. These beds are dipping and unconformable with the rocks above; while they make but 800 feet of the wall or less, they have a geological thickness of 12,000 feet. Set up a row of books aslant; it is 10 inches from the shelf to the top of the line of books, but there may be 3 feet of the books measured directly through the leaves. So these quartzites are aslant, and though of great geologic thickness, they make but 800 feet of the wall. Your books may have many-colored bindings and differ greatly in their contents; so these quartzites vary greatly from place to place along the wall, and in many places they entirely disappear. Let us call this formation the variegated quartzite.

Then above the black gneiss, there's 800 feet of quartzites, usually in very thin layers of many colors, but incredibly hard, ringing like phonolite when struck. These layers are tilted and do not align with the rocks above; even though they only make up about 800 feet of the wall, they have a geological thickness of 12,000 feet. Imagine a row of books set at an angle; it's 10 inches from the shelf to the top of the line of books, but the books could measure 3 feet directly through the pages. Similarly, these quartzites are angled, and despite their great geological thickness, they contribute just 800 feet to the wall. Your books might have various colored covers and differ widely in their content; in the same way, these quartzites vary significantly from place to place along the wall, and in many areas, they completely vanish. Let’s call this formation the variegated quartzite.

Above the quartzites there are 500 feet of sandstones. They are of a greenish hue, but are mottled with spots of brown and black by iron stains. They usually stand in a bold cliff, weathered in alcoves. Let this formation be called the cliff sandstone.

Above the quartzites, there are 500 feet of sandstones. They have a greenish tint but are speckled with brown and black spots from iron stains. They typically rise in a striking cliff, worn into alcoves. Let's call this formation the cliff sandstone.

Above the cliff sandstone there are 700 feet of bedded sandstones and limestones, which are massive sometimes and sometimes broken into

Above the cliff of sandstone, there are 700 feet of layered sandstones and limestones that are sometimes solid and sometimes fractured into

380 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

thin strata. These rocks are often weathered in deep alcoves. Let this formation be called the alcove sandstone.

thin strata. These rocks are often eroded in deep alcoves. Let’s call this formation the alcove sandstone.

Over the alcove sandstone there are 1,600 feet of limestone, in many places a beautiful marble, as in Marble Canyon. As it appears along the Grand Canyon it is always stained a brilliant red, for immediately over it there are thin seams of iron, and the storms have painted these limestones with pigments from above. Altogether this is the red-wall group. It is chiefly limestone. Let it be called the red wall limestone.

Over the alcove sandstone, there are 1,600 feet of limestone, which in many places looks like beautiful marble, as seen in Marble Canyon. Along the Grand Canyon, this rock always appears in a bright red hue because there are thin layers of iron right above it, and storms have coated these limestones with pigments from above. Altogether, this is known as the red-wall group. It's primarily limestone. Let's refer to it as the red wall limestone.

Above the red wall there are 800 feet of gray and bright red sandstone, alternating in beds that look like vast ribbons of landscape. Let it be called the banded sandstone.

Above the red wall, there are 800 feet of gray and bright red sandstone, alternating in layers that resemble vast ribbons of landscape. Let's call it the banded sandstone.

And over all, at the top of the wall, is the Aubrey limestone, 1,000 feet in thickness. This Aubrey has much gypsum in it, great beds of alabaster that are pure white in comparison with the great body of limestone below. In the same limestone there are enormous beds of chert, agates, and carnelians. This limestone is especially remarkable for its pinnacles and towers. Let it be called the tower limestone.

And at the top of the wall, there’s the Aubrey limestone, which is 1,000 feet thick. This Aubrey has a lot of gypsum in it, along with large beds of alabaster that are pure white compared to the massive limestone below. In this limestone, there are huge beds of chert, agates, and carnelians. This limestone is particularly notable for its peaks and towers. Let's call it the tower limestone.

Now recapitulate: The black gneiss below, 800 feet in thickness; the variegated quartzite, 800 feet in thickness; the cliff sandstone, 500 feet in thickness; the alcove sandstone, 700 feet in thickness; the red wall limestone, 1,600 feet in thickness; the banded sandstone, 800 feet in thickness; the tower limestone, 1,000 feet in thickness.

Now to summarize: The black gneiss below is 800 feet thick; the variegated quartzite is 800 feet thick; the cliff sandstone is 500 feet thick; the alcove sandstone is 700 feet thick; the red wall limestone is 1,600 feet thick; the banded sandstone is 800 feet thick; the tower limestone is 1,000 feet thick.

These are the elements with which the walls are constructed, from black buttress below to alabaster tower above. All of these elements weather in different forms and are painted in different colors, so that the wall presents a highly complex facade. A wall of homogeneous granite, like that in the Yosemite, is but a naked wall, whether it be 1,000 or 5,000 feet high. Hundreds and thousands of feet mean nothing to the eye when they stand in a meaningless front. A mountain covered by pure snow 10,000 feet high has but little more effect on the imagination than a mountain of snow 1,000 feet high--it is but more of the same thing; but a facade of seven systems of rock has its sublimity multiplied sevenfold.

These are the materials used to build the walls, from the black buttress below to the white tower above. Each of these materials weathers in different ways and is painted in various colors, creating a highly complex facade. A wall made of uniform granite, like that in Yosemite, is just a bare wall, whether it's 1,000 or 5,000 feet tall. Heights of hundreds or thousands of feet mean nothing to the eye when they present a featureless front. A mountain capped with pure snow at 10,000 feet has little more effect on the imagination than a snow-covered mountain at 1,000 feet—it’s just more of the same; but a facade made of seven different types of rock amplifies its grandeur seven times over.

Let the effect of this multiplied facade be more clearly realized. Stand by the river side at some point where only the black gneiss

Let the impact of this layered facade be understood more clearly. Stand by the river at a spot where only the black gneiss

381

A GABLE WITH PINNACLES.

A gable with peaks.

382

NICHES OR PANELS THE RED WALL LIMESTONE.

Niches or panels in the red wall limestone.

THE GRAND CANYON. 383

is seen. A precipitous wall of mountain rises over the river, with crag and pinnacle and cliff in black and brown, and through it runs an angular pattern of red and gray dikes of granite. It is but a mountain cliff which may be repeated in many parts of the world, except that it is singularly naked of vegetation, and the few plants that find footing are of strange tropical varieties and are conspicuous because of their infrequency.

is seen. A steep mountain wall rises above the river, with jagged peaks and cliffs in black and brown, and through it runs a sharp pattern of red and gray granite dikes. It's just a mountain cliff that could be found in many parts of the world, except it's unusually bare of vegetation, and the few plants that do manage to grow here are unusual tropical types that stand out because they're so rare.

Now climb 800 feet and a point of view is reached where the variegated quartzites are seen. At the summit of the black gneiss a terrace is found, and, set back of this terrace, walls of elaborate sculpture appear, 800 feet in height. This is due to the fact that though the rocks are exceedingly hard they are in very thin layers or strata, and these strata are not horizontal, but stand sometimes on edge, sometimes highly inclined, and sometimes gently inclined. In these variegated beds there are many deep recesses and sharp salients, everywhere set with crags, and the wall is buttressed by a steep talus in many places. In the sheen of the midday sun, these rocks, which are besprinkled with quartz crystals, gleam like walls of diamonds.

Now climb 800 feet, and you'll reach a viewpoint where you can see the colorful quartzites. At the top of the black gneiss, there's a terrace, and behind this terrace are walls of intricate sculptures that rise 800 feet high. This is because, even though the rocks are incredibly hard, they are made up of very thin layers or strata. These strata aren't horizontal; they sometimes stand on edge, are highly inclined, or gently sloped. In these colorful layers, there are many deep recesses and sharp peaks, craggy all around, and the wall is supported by a steep slope in many areas. In the bright midday sun, these rocks, dotted with quartz crystals, shine like walls of diamonds.

A climb of 800 feet over the variegated beds and the foot of the cliff sandstone is reached. It is usually olive green, with spots of brown and black, and presents 500 feet of vertical wall over the variegated sand- stone. The dark green is in fine contrast with the variegated beds below and the red wall above.

A climb of 800 feet takes you over the colorful layers until you reach the base of the cliff where the sandstone is found. It’s typically olive green, with patches of brown and black, and has a vertical wall that rises 500 feet above the varied sandstone. The dark green stands out nicely against the colorful layers below and the red wall above.

Climb these 500 feet and you stand on the cliff sandstone. A terrace appears, and sometimes a wall of terraces set with alcoves of marvelous structure. Climb to the summit of this alcove sandstone--700 feet--and you stand at the foot of the red wall limestone. Sometimes this stands in two, three, or four Cyclopean steps--a mighty stairway. Oftener the red wall stands in a vertical cliff 1,600 feet high. It is the most conspicuous feature of the grand facade and imparts its chief characteristic. All below is but a foundation for it; all above, but an entablature and sky-line of gable, tower, pinnacle, and spire. It is not a plain, unbroken wall, but is broken into vast amphitheaters, often miles abound, between great angular salients. The amphitheaters also are broken into great niches that are sometimes vast chambers and sometimes royal arches 500 or 1,000 feet in height.

Climb these 500 feet and you’ll find yourself on the cliff sandstone. A terrace comes into view, and sometimes a series of terraces with alcoves of amazing design. Ascend to the top of this alcove sandstone—700 feet—and you’ll be at the base of the red wall limestone. Sometimes it appears in two, three, or four enormous steps—a giant staircase. More often, the red wall stands as a vertical cliff 1,600 feet high. It is the most prominent feature of the grand facade and gives it its main characteristic. Everything below serves as a foundation for it; everything above forms an entablature and skyline filled with gables, towers, pinnacles, and spires. It’s not a flat, unbroken wall, but instead is divided into vast amphitheaters, often several miles around, between large angular projections. The amphitheaters are also split into huge niches that can be enormous chambers or grand arches, reaching heights of 500 to 1,000 feet.

384

BOUNDED INWARD CURVES AND PROJECTING CUSPS OF THE WALLS.

BOUNDED INWARD CURVES AND PROJECTING POINTS OF THE WALLS.

THE GRAND CANYON. 385

Over the red wall limestone, with its amphitheaters, chambers, niches, and royal arches--a climb of 1,600 feet--is the banded sandstone, the entablature over the niched and columned marble, an adamantine molding 800 feet in thickness, stretching along the walls of the canyon through hundreds of miles. This banded sandstone has massive strata separated by friable shales. The massive strata are the horizontal elements in the entablature, but the intervening shales are carved with a beautiful fretwork of vertical forms, the sculpture of the rills. The massive sandstones are white, gray, blue, and purple, but the shales are a brilliant red; thus variously colored bands of massive rock are separated by bands of vertically carved shales of a brilliant hue.

Over the red wall limestone, with its amphitheaters, chambers, niches, and royal arches—a climb of 1,600 feet—is the banded sandstone, the entablature above the niched and columned marble, an incredibly tough molding 800 feet thick, stretching along the canyon walls for hundreds of miles. This banded sandstone has huge layers divided by loose shales. The massive layers are the horizontal parts of the entablature, while the shales in between are intricately carved with a beautiful pattern of vertical shapes, the sculptures created by the streams. The massive sandstones come in white, gray, blue, and purple, but the shales are a vibrant red; thus, variously colored bands of solid rock are separated by bands of vertically carved shales in striking colors.

On these highly colored beds the tower limestone is found, 1,000 feet in height. Everywhere this is carved into towers, minarets, and domes, gray and cold, golden and warm, alabaster and pure, in wonderful variety.

On these vividly colored beds, the tower limestone reaches 1,000 feet in height. It is shaped into towers, minarets, and domes everywhere, gray and cold, golden and warm, alabaster and pure, in an amazing variety.

Such are the vertical elements of which the Grand Canyon facade is composed. Its horizontal elements must next be considered. The river meanders in great curves, which are themselves broken into curves of smaller magnitude. The streams that head far back in the plateau on either side come down in gorges and break the wall into sections. Each lateral canyon has a secondary system of laterals, and the secondary canyons are broken by tertiary canyons; so the crags are forever branching, like the limbs of an oak. That which has been described as a wall is such only in its grand effect. In detail it is a series of structures separated by a ramification of canyons, each having its own walls. Thus, in passing down the canyon it seems to be inclosed by walls, but oftener by salients--towering structures that stand between canyons that run back into the plateau. Sometimes gorges of the second or third order have met before reaching the brink of the Grand Canyon, and then great salients are cut off from the wall and stand out as buttes--huge pavilions in the architecture of the canyon. The scenic elements thus described are fused and combined in very different ways.

Such are the vertical features that make up the Grand Canyon's facade. Now, let’s look at its horizontal elements. The river twists and turns in large curves, which are further broken down into smaller curves. The streams that originate deep within the plateau on either side flow down through gorges, splitting the wall into sections. Each side canyon has its own smaller side canyons, and those secondary canyons get interrupted by even smaller tertiary canyons; so the cliffs keep branching out, similar to the limbs of an oak tree. What we've called a wall is only that in its overall impact. In detail, it consists of a series of structures divided by a network of canyons, each with its own walls. So as you travel down the canyon, it feels like you're enclosed by walls, but more often by salients—towering formations that rise between the canyons leading back into the plateau. Occasionally, second or third-order gorges converge before reaching the edge of the Grand Canyon, and as a result, large salients are separated from the wall, standing out as buttes—massive pavilions in the canyon's architecture. The scenic components described here are blended and combined in very different ways.

We measured the length of the Grand Canyon by the length of the river running through it, but the running extent of wall cannot be measured in this manner. In the black gneiss, which is at the bottom, the wall may stand above the river for a few hundred yards or a

We measured the length of the Grand Canyon by the length of the river running through it, but you can’t measure the extent of the walls that way. In the black gneiss at the bottom, the wall may rise above the river for a few hundred yards or a

386 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

mile or two; then, to follow the foot of the wall, you must pass into a lateral canyon for a long distance, perhaps miles, and then back again on the other side of the lateral canyon; then along by the river until another lateral canyon is reached, which must be headed in the black gneiss. So, for a dozen miles of river through the gneiss, there may be a hundred miles of wall on either side. Climbing to the summit of the black gneiss and following the wall in the variegated quartzite, it is found to be stretched out to a still greater length, for it is cut with more lateral gorges. In like manner, there is yet greater length of the mottled, or alcove, sandstone wall; and the red wall is still farther stretched out in ever branching gorges. To make the distance for ten miles along the river by walking along the top of the red wall, it would be necessary to travel several hundred miles. The length of the wall reaches its maximum in the banded sandstone, which is terraced more than any of the other formations. The tower limestone wall is less tortuous. To start at the head of the Grand Canyon on one of the terraces of the banded sandstone and follow it to the foot of the Grand Canyon, which by river is a distance of 217 miles, it would be necessary to travel many thousand miles by the winding Way; that is, the banded wall is many thousand miles in length.

A mile or two; then, to stay close to the base of the wall, you have to go into a side canyon for a long stretch, maybe miles, and then back again on the other side of the side canyon; then along the river until you hit another side canyon, which you have to navigate in the black gneiss. So, for about twelve miles of river through the gneiss, there could be a hundred miles of wall on each side. If you climb to the top of the black gneiss and follow the wall in the multicolored quartzite, you’ll find it extends even further, as it’s crossed by more lateral gorges. Similarly, there’s an even greater stretch of the mottled or alcove sandstone wall, and the red wall stretches even longer with ever-branching gorges. To cover ten miles along the river by walking on top of the red wall, you’d have to trek several hundred miles. The length of the wall is greatest in the banded sandstone, which is more terraced than any of the other formations. The tower limestone wall is less winding. Starting at the head of the Grand Canyon on one of the terraces of the banded sandstone and following it to the foot of the Grand Canyon—which by river is 217 miles away—you would have to travel thousands of miles along the winding path; that is, the banded wall is thousands of miles long.

Stand at some point on the brink of the Grand Canyon where you can overlook the river, and the details of the structure, the vast labyrinth of gorges of which it is composed, are scarcely noticed; the elements are lost in the grand effect, and a broad, deep, flaring gorge of many colors is seen. But stand down among these gorges and the landscape seems to be composed of huge vertical elements of wonderful form. Above, it is an open, sunny gorge; below, it is deep and gloomy. Above, it is a chasm; below, it is a stairway from gloom to heaven.

Stand at some point on the edge of the Grand Canyon where you can see the river, and the intricate details of its structure, the vast maze of gorges it consists of, are hardly noticed; the elements blend into the overall impression, and a wide, deep gorge displaying many colors appears. But stand down among these gorges and the landscape seems to comprise massive vertical features of incredible shapes. Up above, it’s a bright, sunny gorge; down below, it’s dark and gloomy. Above, it’s a chasm; below, it’s a staircase leading from darkness to the sky.

The traveler in the region of mountains sees vast masses piled up in gentle declivities to the clouds. To see mountains in this way is to appreciate the masses of which they are composed. But the climber among the glaciers sees the elements of which this mass is composed,--that it is made of cliffs and towers and pinnacles, with intervening gorges, and the smooth billows of granite seen from afar are transformed into cliffs and caves and towers and minarets. These two aspects of mountain scenery have been seized by painters, and in their art

The traveler in the mountainous area sees huge formations rising gently into the clouds. Observing mountains this way helps to appreciate the massive structures they are made of. However, the climber navigating the glaciers sees the individual elements that create this mass—cliffs, towers, and peaks, along with the gorges in between. The smooth contours of granite visible from a distance turn into cliffs, caves, towers, and minarets up close. These two perspectives of mountain landscapes have been captured by artists, and in their work

387

THE EASTERN TEMPLE.

388

THE WESTERN TEMPLE.

THE WESTERN WALL.

THE GRAND CANYON. 389

two classes of mountains are represented: mountains with towering forms that seem ready to topple in the first storm, and mountains in masses that seem to frown defiance at the tempests. Both classes have told the truth. The two aspects are sometimes caught by our painters severally; sometimes they are combined. Church paints a mountain like a kingdom of glory. Bierstadt paints a mountain cliff where an eagle is lost from sight ere he reaches the summit. Thomas Moran marries these great characteristics, and in his infinite masses cliffs of immeasurable height are seen.

Two types of mountains are represented: mountains with towering shapes that look like they're about to collapse in the first storm, and mountains in solid masses that seem to challenge the tempests. Both types tell the truth. Sometimes our artists capture each aspect separately; other times, they combine them. Church paints a mountain like a majestic kingdom. Bierstadt paints a mountain cliff where an eagle disappears from view before it reaches the top. Thomas Moran blends these significant features, showcasing cliffs of unimaginable height among his vast masses.

Thus the elements of the facade of the Grand Canyon change vertically and horizontally. The details of structure can be seen only at close view, but grand effects of structure can be witnessed in great panoramic scenes. Seen in detail, gorges and precipices appear; seen at a distance, in comprehensive views, vast massive structures are presented. The traveler on the brink looks from afar and is overwhelmed with the sublimity of massive forms; the traveler among the gorges stands in the presence of awful mysteries, profound, solemn, and gloomy.

Thus, the features of the Grand Canyon's facade shift both vertically and horizontally. The intricate details of its structure are noticeable only up close, but the impressive structural effects can be seen in broad panoramic views. When looking closely, you can see gorges and cliffs; from a distance, expansive, monumental structures come into view. The traveler standing on the edge gazes from afar, overwhelmed by the grandeur of these massive shapes; meanwhile, the traveler wandering through the gorges confronts deep mysteries that feel profound, serious, and dark.

For 8 or 10 miles below the mouth of the Little Colorado, the river is in the variegated quartzites, and a wonderful fretwork of forms and colors, peculiar to this rock, stretches back for miles to a labyrinth of the red wall cliff; then below, the black gneiss is entered and soon has reached an altitude of 800 feet and sometimes more than 1,000 feet; and upon this black gneiss all the other structures in their wonderful colors are lifted. These continue for about 70 miles, when the black gneiss below is lost, for the walls are dropped down by the West Kaibab Fault, and the river flows in the quartzites.

For 8 to 10 miles downstream from the mouth of the Little Colorado, the river winds through colorful quartzite formations, showcasing a stunning variety of shapes and shades unique to this rock. This scenery stretches back for miles to a maze of the red wall cliffs. Further downstream, we encounter black gneiss, which quickly rises to an elevation of 800 feet and sometimes exceeds 1,000 feet. All the other structures in their vibrant colors are elevated upon this black gneiss. This striking landscape continues for about 70 miles, after which the black gneiss disappears as the walls drop down due to the West Kaibab Fault, and the river flows through the quartzites.

Then for 80 miles the mottled, or alcove, sandstones are found in the river bed. The course of the canyon is a little south of west and is comparatively straight. At the top of the red wall limestone there is a broad terrace, two or three miles in width, composed of hills of wonderful forms carved in the banded beds, and back of this is seen a cliff in the tower limestone. Along the lower course of this stretch the whole character of the canyon is changed by another set of complicating conditions. We have now reached a region of volcanic activity. After the canyons were cut nearly to their present depth,

Then for 80 miles, you can find the mottled, or alcove, sandstones in the riverbed. The canyon runs a bit south of west and is relatively straight. At the top of the red wall limestone, there’s a wide terrace, two or three miles across, made up of hills with amazing shapes carved into the banded layers, and behind this, you can see a cliff in the tower limestone. As you move along the lower part of this section, the whole nature of the canyon changes due to a new set of complicated factors. We have now entered an area of volcanic activity. After the canyons were carved out to nearly their current depth,

390 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

COLORADO CANYONS.

lavas poured out and volcanoes were built on the walls of the canyon, but not in the canyon itself, though at places rivers of molten rock rolled down the walls into the Colorado.

lavas flowed out and volcanoes formed on the canyon walls, but not in the canyon itself, although in some spots rivers of molten rock cascaded down the walls into the Colorado.

The next 80 miles of the canyon is a compound of that found where the river is in the black gneiss and that found where the dead volcanoes stand on the brink of the wall. In the first stretch, where the gneiss is at the foundation, we have a great bend to the south, and in the last stretch, where the gneiss is below and the dead volcanoes above, another great southern detour is found. These two great beds are separated by 80 miles of comparatively straight river. Let us call this first great bend the Kaibab reach of the canyon, and the straight part the Kanab reach, for the Kanab Creek heads far off in the plateau to the north and joins the Colorado at the beginning of the middle stretch. The third great southern bend is the Shiwits stretch. Thus there are three distinct portions of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado: the Kaibab section, characterized more by its buttes and salients; the Kanab section, characterized by its comparatively straight walls with volcanoes on the brink; and the Shiwits section, which is broken into great terraces with gneiss at the bottom and volcanoes at the top.

The next 80 miles of the canyon combines the areas where the river flows through black gneiss and where the extinct volcanoes rise along the edge of the wall. In the first section, where the gneiss forms the base, there's a significant curve to the south, and in the final section, where the gneiss is below and the dead volcanoes are above, there's another major southward detour. These two significant sections are separated by 80 miles of mostly straight river. Let's refer to this first major curve as the Kaibab reach of the canyon, and the straight section as the Kanab reach, since Kanab Creek originates far to the north on the plateau and merges with the Colorado River at the beginning of the middle section. The third major southward bend is known as the Shiwits stretch. Therefore, there are three distinct parts of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado: the Kaibab section, marked by its buttes and prominent features; the Kanab section, with its relatively straight walls and volcanoes at the edge; and the Shiwits section, which is divided into large terraces with gneiss at the bottom and volcanoes at the top.

The Grand Canyon of the Colorado is a canyon composed of many canyons. It is a composite of thousands, of tens of thousands, of gorges. In like manner, each wall of the canyon is a composite structure, a wall composed of many walls, but never a repetition. Every one of these almost innumerable gorges is a world of beauty in itself. In the Grand Canyon there are thousands of gorges like that below Niagara Palls, and there are a thousand Yosemites. Yet all these canyons unite to form one grand canyon, the most sublime spectacle on the earth. Pluck up Mt. Washington by the roots to the level of the sea and drop it headfirst into the Grand Canyon, and the dam will not force its waters over the walls. Pluck up the Blue Ridge and hurl it into the Grand Canyon, and it will not fill it.

The Grand Canyon of the Colorado is a canyon made up of many canyons. It’s a mix of thousands, tens of thousands, of gorges. Similarly, each wall of the canyon is a complex structure, a wall made of many walls, but there’s never a repeat. Each of these countless gorges is its own beautiful world. In the Grand Canyon, there are thousands of gorges like those below Niagara Falls, and there are a thousand Yosemites. Yet all these canyons come together to create one grand canyon, the most breathtaking sight on Earth. If you pulled up Mt. Washington by the roots to sea level and dropped it headfirst into the Grand Canyon, the dam wouldn’t push its waters over the walls. If you took the Blue Ridge and threw it into the Grand Canyon, it still wouldn’t fill it.

The carving of the Grand Canyon is the work of rains and rivers. The vast labyrinth of canyon by which the plateau region drained by the Colorado is dissected is also the work of waters. Every river has excavated its own gorge and every creek has excavated its gorge. When

The carving of the Grand Canyon is the result of rain and rivers. The massive network of canyons that drain the plateau region shaped by the Colorado is also the result of water. Each river has cut its own gorge, and every creek has carved out its own gorge. When

391

GRANITE FALLS, KIABAB DIVISION, GRAND CANYON.

392

DIKES IN THE CANYON WALL.

Canyon wall dikes.

THE GRAND CANYON. 393

a shower comes in this land, the rills carve canyons--but a little at each storm; and though storms are far apart and the heavens above are cloudless for most of the days of the year, still, years are plenty in the ages, and an intermittent rill called to life by a shower can do much work in centuries of centuries.

a shower happens in this land, the streams create canyons—but a little at each storm; and even though storms are infrequent and the sky above is clear for most days of the year, still, there are many years in the ages, and an occasional stream brought to life by a shower can accomplish a lot over centuries.

The erosion represented in the canyons, although vast, is but a small part of the great erosion of the region, for between the cliffs blocks have been carried away far superior in magnitude to those necessary to fill the canyons. Probably there is no portion of the whole region from which there have not been more than a thousand feet degraded, and there are districts from which more than 30,000 feet of rock have been carried away. Altogether, there is a district of country more than 200,000 square miles in extent from which on the average more than 6,000 feet have been eroded. Consider a rock 200,000 square miles in extent and a mile in thickness, against which the clouds have hurled their storms and beat it into sands and the rills have carried the sands into the creeks and the creeks have carried them into the rivers and the Colorado has carried them into the sea. We think of the mountains as forming clouds about their brows, but the clouds have formed the mountains. Great continental blocks are upheaved from beneath the sea by internal geologic forces that fashion the earth. Then the wandering clouds, the tempest-bearing clouds, the rainbow-decked clouds, with mighty power and with wonderful skill, carve out valleys and canyons and fashion hills and cliffs and mountains. The clouds are the artists sublime.

The erosion seen in the canyons, while extensive, is just a small fraction of the massive erosion in the area. Between the cliffs, blocks much larger than what’s needed to fill the canyons have been removed. It's likely that there's no part of the entire region that hasn’t lost more than a thousand feet, and there are areas where over 30,000 feet of rock have been worn away. Overall, there's an area of land exceeding 200,000 square miles where, on average, more than 6,000 feet have been eroded. Imagine a rock formation spanning 200,000 square miles and a mile thick, battered by storms from the clouds that turn it into sand, which is then washed into creeks, then into rivers, and finally, into the sea by the Colorado River. We often think of mountains as being crowned with clouds, but in reality, it’s the clouds that shape the mountains. Massive continental blocks rise from beneath the sea due to internal geological forces that shape the earth. Then the drifting clouds—those storm-bringing, rainbow-adorned clouds—skillfully and powerfully carve out valleys, canyons, hills, cliffs, and mountains. The clouds are the true sublime artists.

In winter some of the characteristics of the Grand Canyon are emphasized. The black gneiss below, the variegated quartzite, and the green or alcove sandstone form the foundation for the mighty red wall. The banded sandstone entablature is crowned by the tower limestone. In winter this is covered with snow. Seen from below, these changing elements seem to graduate into the heavens, and no plane of demarcation between wall and blue firmament can be seen. The heavens constitute a portion of the facade and mount into a vast dome from wall to wall, spanning the Grand Canyon with empyrean blue. So the earth and the heavens are blended in one vast structure.

In winter, some features of the Grand Canyon really stand out. The black gneiss underneath, the colorful quartzite, and the green or alcove sandstone make up the base for the impressive red wall. The layered sandstone ledge is topped by the tower limestone, which is blanketed in snow during winter. From below, these shifting elements appear to connect with the sky, and you can't see a clear boundary between the walls and the blue sky. The sky becomes part of the scene, rising into a huge dome from one wall to the other, stretching across the Grand Canyon in a deep blue. Thus, the earth and sky merge into one immense structure.

When the clouds play in the canyon, as they often do in the rainy season, another set of effects is produced. Clouds creep out of canyons

When the clouds drift through the canyon, which happens frequently during the rainy season, another set of effects occurs. Clouds emerge from canyons.

394 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Canyons of the Colorado.

and wind into other canyons. The heavens seem to be alive, not moving as move the heavens over a plain, in one direction with the wind, but following the multiplied courses of these gorges. In this manner the little clouds seem to be individualized, to have wills and souls of their own, and to be going on diverse errands--a vast assemblage of self-willed clouds, faring here and there, intent upon purposes hidden in their own breasts. In the imagination the clouds belong to the sky, and when they are in the canyon the skies come down into the gorges and cling to the cliffs and lift them up to immeasurable heights, for the sky must still be far away. Thus they lend infinity to the walls.

and wind into other canyons. The sky feels alive, not moving like the heavens over a flat plain, in one direction with the wind, but following the winding paths of these gorges. This way, the little clouds seem personalized, as if they have their own wills and souls, going on different missions—a huge gathering of self-directed clouds, drifting here and there, focused on purposes hidden within themselves. In our imagination, the clouds belong to the sky, and when they’re in the canyon, the skies descend into the gorges, clinging to the cliffs and lifting them up to unimaginable heights, because the sky must still be far away. In this way, they give infinity to the walls.

The wonders of the Grand Canyon cannot be adequately represented in symbols of speech, nor by speech itself. The resources of the graphic art are taxed beyond their powers in attempting to portray its features. Language and illustration combined must fail. The elements that unite to make the Grand Canyon the most sublime spectacle in nature are multifarious and exceedingly diverse. The Cyclopean forms which result from the sculpture of tempests through ages too long for man to compute, are wrought into endless details, to describe which would be a task equal in magnitude to that of describing the stars of the heavens or the multitudinous beauties of the forest with its traceries of foliage presented by oak and pine and poplar, by beech and linden and hawthorn, by tulip and lily and rose, by fern and moss and lichen. Besides the elements of form, there are elements of color, for here the colors of the heavens are rivaled by the colors of the rocks. The rainbow is not more replete with hues. But form and color do not exhaust all the divine qualities of the Grand Canyon. It is the land of music. The river thunders in perpetual roar, swelling in floods of music when the storm gods play upon the rocks and fading away in soft and low murmurs when the infinite blue of heaven is unveiled. With the melody of the great tide rising and falling, swelling and vanishing forever, other melodies are heard in the gorges of the lateral canyons, while the waters plunge in the rapids among the rocks or leap in great cataracts. Thus the Grand Canyon, is a land of song. Mountains of music swell in the rivers, hills of music billow in the creeks, and meadows of music murmur in the rills that ripple over the rocks. Altogether it is a symphony of multitudinous melodies. All this is the music of waters. The adamant

The wonders of the Grand Canyon can't really be captured through words or even speech. The tools of graphic art are pushed to their limits trying to depict its features. Combining language and illustration just doesn't cut it. The elements that come together to make the Grand Canyon the most breathtaking sight in nature are numerous and incredibly varied. The gigantic shapes created by the forces of nature over countless ages are filled with endless details, which would be as challenging to describe as counting the stars in the sky or the countless beauties of the forest with its intricate foliage from oak, pine, and poplar to beech, linden, hawthorn, tulips, lilies, and roses, along with ferns, moss, and lichen. In addition to the forms, there are colors; here the colors of the sky are matched by the colors of the rocks. The rainbow doesn't have more shades. But the beauty of the Grand Canyon goes beyond just form and color. It's a place full of music. The river roars constantly, swelling into powerful waves of sound when the storm gods toss their fury on the rocks, and fading into soft whispers when the endless blue sky opens up. Along with the melody of the great tide that rises and falls, the echoes of other sounds can be heard in the gorges of the side canyons, where the water tumbles through rapids or crashes down in towering waterfalls. Thus, the Grand Canyon is a land of song. Rivers deliver waves of music, hills create flowing sounds in the creeks, and meadows hum in the streams that ripple over the rocks. Altogether, it forms a symphony of countless melodies. This is all the music of the waters. The unyielding

395

PINNACLES OF THE KAIBAB.

KAIBAB PINNACLES.

VISHNU'S TEMPLE.

Vishnu's Temple.

KEY TO THE PANORAMA FROM POINT SUBLIME.--LOOKING EAST.

E. C. Eastern Cloister. F. San Fraucisco Mount. K. Mount Kendricks.

E. C. Eastern Cloister. F. San Francisco Mount. K. Mount Kendricks.

1. Cherty limestone. 2. Upper Aubrey limestone. 3. Cross-bedded sandstone. 4. Lower Anbrey sandstone.

5. Upper Red Wall.

Upper Red Wall.

6. Red Wall limestones.

Red Wall limestones.

7. Lower Carboniferous sandstones.

Lower Carboniferous sandstones.

H. Hindoo Amphitheater. S. Shiva's Temple. R. Cape RoyaL

H. Hindu Amphitheater. S. Shiva's Temple. R. Cape Royal

396

KEY TO THE PANORAMA FROM POINT SUBLIME.--LOOKING WEST.

E. Mount Emma. I. Inner Gorge. P. Powell's Plateau. T. Mount TrumbulL

E. Mount Emma. I. Inner Gorge. P. Powell's Plateau. T. Mount Trumbull.

1. Cherty llmestone.

Chert limestone.

2. Upper Aubrey limestone

3. Cross-bedded sandstone

3. Crossbedded sandstone

7. Lower Carboniferous sandstone

Lower Carboniferous sandstone

8. Quartzite base of Carboniferous.

8. Carboniferous quartzite base.

9. Archaean.

A. Bill Williams Peak B. Tower of Babel C. Colorado River F. Mount Floyd. '

A. Bill Williams Peak B. Tower of Babel C. Colorado River F. Mount Floyd.

G. Monnt Sitgreaven.

G. Mont Sitgreave.

I. Inner Gorge

TT. Twin Temples. W.C. West Cloister.

KEY TO THE PANORAMA FROM POINT SUBLIME.--LOOKING SOUTH.

1. Cherry limestone, 240 feet.

Cherry limestone, 240 ft.

3. Upper Aubrey limestone, 320 feet

3. Cross-bedded sandstone, 380 feet

Cross-bedded sandstone, 380 ft

4. Lower Aubrey sandstones, 950 feet. 5. Upper Red Wall sandstones, 400 feet. 6. Red Wall limestones, 1.500 fett.

4. Lower Aubrey sandstones, 950 feet. 5. Upper Red Wall sandstones, 400 feet. 6. Red Wall limestones, 1,500 feet.

7. Lower Carboniferous sandstones, 550 fret.

7. Lower Carboniferous sandstones, 550 feet.

8. Quartzite base of Carboniferous, 180 feet.

8. Quartzite base from the Carboniferous period, 180 feet.

9. Archaean.

9. Archaean

GRAND CANYON AT THE FOOT OF THE TOROWEAP, LOOKING EAST.

GRAND CANYON AT THE BASE OF THE TOROWEAP, FACING EAST.

THE GREAT UNCONFORMITY AT THE HEAD OF THE GRAND CANYON.

THE GREAT UNCONFORMITY AT THE TOP OF THE GRAND CANYON.

THE GRAND CANYON. 397

foundations of the earth have been wrought into a sublime harp, upon which the clouds of the heavens play with mighty tempests or with gentle showers.

the foundations of the earth have been shaped into a magnificent harp, on which the clouds of the sky play with powerful storms or gentle rain.

The glories and the beauties of form, color, and sound unite in the Grand Canyon--forms unrivaled even by the mountains, colors that vie with sunsets, and sounds that span the diapason from tempest to tinkling raindrop, from cataract to bubbling fountain. But more: it is a vast district of country. Were it a valley plain it would make a state. It can be seen only in parts from hour to hour and from day to day and from week to week and from month to month. A year scarcely suffices to see it all. It has infinite variety, and no part is ever duplicated. Its colors, though many and complex at any instant, change with the ascending and declining sun; lights and shadows appear and vanish with the passing clouds, and the changing seasons mark their passage in changing colors. You cannot see the Grand Canyon in one view, as if it were a changeless spectacle from which a curtain might be lifted, but to see it you have to toil from month to month through its labyrinths. It is a region more difficult to traverse than the Alps or the Himalayas, but if strength and courage are sufficient for the task, by a year's toil a concept of sublimity can be obtained never again to be equaled on the hither side of Paradise.

The amazing beauty of shape, color, and sound all come together in the Grand Canyon—shapes unmatched by any mountains, colors that compete with sunsets, and sounds ranging from storms to gentle raindrops, from waterfalls to bubbling fountains. But there's more: it's a huge area of land. If it were a flat valley, it could be its own state. You can only see parts of it at different times—hour by hour, day by day, week by week, and month by month. A year hardly gives you enough time to see everything. It has endless variety, and no part looks exactly the same. Its colors, though numerous and intricate in any moment, shift with the rising and setting sun; lights and shadows appear and fade with the passing clouds, and the changing seasons bring different colors. You can't take in the Grand Canyon all at once, as if it were a static scene with a curtain that could be drawn back; to truly experience it, you have to navigate through its maze month after month. It’s a region harder to cross than the Alps or the Himalayas, but if you have the strength and courage for the journey, after a year's effort, you'll gain a sense of awe that can never be matched anywhere else on this side of Paradise.

399

INDEX.

PAGE

Apache Indians, home and character of the ....24

Art, ancient, vestiges of, in the Gila and Colorado valleys .24

Art, ancient remnants of, in the Gila and Colorado valleys. 24

Bad lands, formation and characteristics of the ....68,71

Bad lands of Green River ........124

Baker, John, a famous mountaineer ......131

Baker, John, a well-known climber ......131

Bierstadt, how he paints a mountain ......389

Boats and cargoes, description of ......119

Bosque Redondo, Navajos on a reservation at the ...52

Bradley, G. T., a member of the expedition .. . . . . . . v, 120

Bradley rescues others from the water ......284

Bradley saves people from drowning ......284

Buttes, mesas, plateaus, distinction between ....46

Buttes, mesas, plateaus, the difference between ....46

Canyon cutting in the upper Colorado basin ....29

Cávate or cliff dwellings of the Tewan Indians ....56

Cávate, or the cliff dwellings of the Tewan Indians ....56

Caves in a volcanic crater used as habitations by Indians .43

Caves in a volcanic crater used as homes by Native Americans.43

Caves in cliffs used as habitations by Indians ....41

Caves in cliffs that were used as homes by Native Americans ....41

Ceremony at Shupaulovi to bring rain .....338-342

Chambers excavated in volcanic ashes by Indians for habitations . . 42

Chambers dug out of volcanic ash by Native Americans for living spaces. . . 42

Chumehueva Indians, low condition and former home of the 27

Chumehueva Indians, low status and former home of the 27

Church, how he paints a mountain ......389

Cinder-cone town formerly inhabited by Indians ...42

Cinder-cone town was once home to Native Americans ...42

Cliff dwellings of the Tewan Indians ......56

Cliff village of Walnut Cany on .......41

Cliff village of Walnut Canyon on .......41

Collecting specimens of the art of Tusayan ....342-344

Colorado Canyon broken by lateral canyons ....29

Colorado Canyon interrupted by side canyons ....29

Colorado Desert, singular characteristics of the ....22

Colorado Desert, unique features of the ....22

Crater town formerly inhabited by Indians ....43

Crater town previously lived in by Native Americans....43

Cult societies among the Indiana .......363-364

Death, supposed, of the author .......... iii

Death, presumed, of the author .......... iii

Digger Indians, the original ........27

Digger Indians, the original ........__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Dunn, W. H., a member of the expedition ........ v, 120

Dunn, W. H., abandons the party and is killed by Indians .280,323

Dunn, W. H., leaves the party and is killed by Native Americans.280,323

Freebooters of the Plateau Province ......84

Fremont's Peak, height of and view from .....67

Garfield, J. A., insists on the publication of the history of the expedition . iv

Garfield, J. A., insists on publishing the history of the expedition. iv

Goodman, Frank, a member of the expedition ....... v, 120

Goodman, Frank, leaves the party .......187

Government, civil, military, and religious, among the tribes of Tusayan . 356-364

Government, civil, military, and religious, among the tribes of Tusayan. 356-364

Grand Canyon, how formed . . ' . . . .89

Grand Canyon, how it was formed . . . . .89

Grand Canyon, the most sublime spectacle on earth ..390,397

Grand Canyon, the most breathtaking sight on Earth ..390,397

Grand Canyon walls, elements of and height of ...251, 379-389

Hall, Andrew, a member of the expedition ....... v, 120

Hano, a visit to ...........345

Hano, a visit to ...........__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Hano, location and language of .......49

Hawkins, W. R., a member of the expedition ........ v, 120

Rowland, O. G., a member of the expedition ....... v, 120

Rowland, Seneca, a member of the expedition ....... v, 120

Howland and Dunn abandon the party and are killed by Indians . . 280,323

Howland and Dunn leave the party and are killed by Native Americans . . 280,323

Instruments, tools, rations, etc. .......119

Gear, supplies, rations, etc. .......__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Irrigation and hydraulic works built by the Indians ..24

Irrigation and hydraulic systems constructed by the Indigenous people ..24

Irrigation developed by the Navajo and other Indians ..52, 111

Irrigation developed by the Navajo and other Indigenous peoples ..52, 111

Killing by the Shivwits of the three men who left the party 323 .

Kinship ties among the tribes of North America ....356-358

Kinship connections among the tribes of North America ....356-358

Kit Carson, leadership of, against the Navajos ....51

Kit Carson, leading the fight against the Navajos ....51

Maricopa Indians, home and character of the ....24

Marriage and kinship ties among the North American Indians . . . 357-359

Marriage and family connections among Native Americans . . . 357-359

Mashongnavi, a visit to .........335

Mashongnavi, a visit to __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

40 0 INDEX.

0 INDEX.

PAGE

Mashongnavi, location and language of .....49

Medicine-man as historian, priest, and doctor . . . . . .65,106,363

Medicine man as historian, priest, and doctor . . . . . .65,106,363

Men who composed the exploring party .....120

Men who made up the exploring party .....120

Mesas, plateaus, buttes, distinction between . . . . . . . . . 46

Mesas, plateaus, buttes, difference between . . . . . . . . . 46

Mogollon Escarpment, description of the .....27

Mojave Indians, former home and life of the . . . . . . . . 27

Moran, Thomas, how he paints a mountain ....389

Moran, Thomas, how he captures a mountain ....389

Moran, Thomas, painting of "The Chasm of the Colorado" . . . .328

Myth, Indian, of the origin of the Colorado Canyon and River 37

Myth, Indian, about how the Colorado Canyon and River began 37

Myth of the Sokus Waiunats, or One-Two Boys ...303-311

Mythic stories of the Ute and other Indians ....65,107

Mythic stories of the Ute and other Indigenous people ....65,107

Navajo Indians, home, characteristics, language, art, etc., of the 51

Navajo Indians, home, traits, language, art, etc., of the 51

Oraibi, a visit to ..........335

Oraibi, a visit to ..........__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Oraibi, collecting the arts of the people of .....342-344

Oraibi, gathering the crafts of the people of .....342-344

Oraibi, life at ...........336-338

Oraibi, life at ...........__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__-338

Oraibi, location and language of .......49

Painted Desert region, description of the .....45

Papago Indians, home and character of the .....24

Pestilence and war causes of abandonment of pueblos and rancherias . 113

Pestilence and war are the reasons for the abandonment of towns and ranches. 113

Pima Indians, home and character of the .....24

Plateaus, mesas, buttes, distinction between ....46

Plateaus, mesas, buttes, the difference between ....46

Powell, W. H., a member of the expedition ........ v, 120

Pueblo Indians, languages and culture of the . . . . . . . ill

Rabbit snaring by the Utes ........105

Rations, clothing, ammunition, tools, and scientific instruments . . . 119

Rations, clothes, ammo, tools, and scientific instruments . . . 119

Rescued from a perilous position .......169

Rescued from a dangerous situation .......169

Ruins in the Grand Canyon region ......107

Ruins in the Grand Canyon area ......107

Ruins of ancient pueblo-building tribes in the valley of the Little Colorado

and vicinity ..........49,53

and surrounding area ..........__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__,53

Ruins of ancient pueblo-building tribes on San Francisco Plateau 40

Ruins of cavate or cliff dwellings of the Tewan Indians .56

Ruins of cave or cliff dwellings of the Tewan Indians. 56

Scenic features of the Canyon land .......32

Shivwits chief talks ..........321-323

Shivwits chief speaks ..........__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__-323

Shoshone Indians, home and life of the . . . . . . . . .71

Shumopavi, a visit to .........335

Shumopavi, a visit to .........__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Shumopavi, location and language of ......49

Shupaulovi, a visit to .........338-242

Shupaulovi, a visit to __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__-242

Shupaulovi, location and language of ......49

Sichumovi, a visit to ..........345

Sichumovi, a visit to ..........__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Sichumovi, location and language of ......49

Snake dance at Walpi .........346-347

Snake dance at Walpi __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__-347

Sokus Waiunats, or One-Two Boys .......303-311

Spanish expeditions and conquerors in the Southwest ..260

Starting from Green River City for the Canyon . . . . . . .119

Starting from Green River City to the Canyon . . . . . . .119

Stories, mythic, of the Ute and other Indians ....65,107

Storm below the beholder .........98

Storm beneath the observer .........__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Sumner, J. C., a member of the expedition ....... v, 120

Thousand Wells ...........334

Thousand Wells __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Timber region of Arizona, description of the .....39

Trumbull. Mount, ascent of ........324-325

Trumbull. Mount, ascent of ........__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__-325

Tusayan, the seven pueblos of .......49,335

Tusayan, tribes of, government among the .....356-364

Tusayan, two weeks spent at .......335

Uinta Indians, home of the ........75

Ute Indians, home, life, dress, etc., of the . . . . . . 27,62,84,104

Ute Indians, their home, lifestyle, clothing, etc., of the . . . . . . 27,62,84,104

Volcanic dust, enormous amount of, on Tewan Plateau ..55

Volcanic dust in huge quantities on Tewan Plateau ..55

Walpi, a visit to ...........345

Walpi, a visit to ...........__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Walpi, location and language of .......49

War and pestilence causes of abandonment of pueblos and rancherias . 113

War and disease are the reasons for the abandonment of towns and ranches. 113

Yellowstone Park, the land of geyser wonders ....67

Yuma Indians, former home and life of the ....27

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